Ouachita High Country - Summer 2016

Page 1

Finding Local Swimming Holes

Digging for Diamonds Making Summer Classics

Stillwater Paddling Plus: The DeSoto Club English Muffin Y Illustrations Ou a c hit a H ighCo u ntr y .com 1


#1 in Hot Springs Village for Over 20 Years! Hot Springs Village

For ALL of your Real Estate needs

Homes • New Construction • Buildable Lots Long-Term Rentals • Discounted Lodging • Free Maps & Brochures

2

O u ac h i ta Hi gh C ou nt r y


Subscribe Now! You Aspire

Dreams drive each of us. Whether you want to be a journalist or a doctor, an artist or a park ranger, ambitions can become reality at Henderson State University.

We Empower

At Henderson, we empower students with the tools to excel. We offer more than 70 majors and a variety of academic support resources.

You Achieve

A student-centered focus makes Henderson more than a university. We’re a community that prepares you for a successful career and life.

Larkin Parks BS, Recreation Leisure Services Management Class of 2016 Texarkana, Arkansas

Arkadelphia, Arkansas

l

870-230-5000

l

hsu.edu

Find us on Snapchat, Facebook, Twitter, Instagram @HendersonStateU l

If you enjoy OHC magazine, we can now mail it directly to you! Subscribe now to receive one year or 4 issues!* Only

$10!

Go to ouachitahighcountry.com Or, to order by mail, please mail the below form and payment (cash, check or credit card**) to: Render Creative Group attn: Ouachita High Country 801 Central Avenue, Suite 30 Hot Springs, AR 71901

g tin ra s leb ear Ce 64 Y

*Subscriptions will begin the issue following your registration. **If paying by mail with credit card, please include a separate note that includes: name on credit card, credit card number, expiration date, CCV number and billing address. If you have any questions or need assistance please call 501-620-4520.

NAME

STREET ADDRESS CITY

STATE

ZIP

PHONE NUMBER

EMAIL

3024 Central Avenue • Hot Springs, Arkansas Ou a c hit a H ighCo u ntr y .com

3


“Life is Either a Daring Adventure,

or Nothing at All.” – Helen Keller

LET THE NEXT ADVENTURE BEGIN. Whether your idea of adventure is kayaking over the Balboa Spillway or just exploring a new trail each week, when you live at Hot Springs Village, there are chances to learn new things and surprise yourself every day. Become a part of Basecamp where you’ll find training opportunities, social get-togethers and organized events made just for you. Live outside the expected with Hot Springs Village and Basecamp!

Brand-new Homes from the $200’s

4

O u ac h i ta Hi gh C ou nt r y

#HSVBasecamp

ExploreTheVillage.com


SUMMER 2016

CONTENTS

25

34.375275 -93.169342

What’s Inside

20 25

Calming Waters

Endless Paddling Adventures on Arkansas’ Largest Lake

Jump Into Summer

Exploring the Swimming Holes of Ouachita High Country

30 35

Can Ya’ Dig It?

Making Your Summer Classic(s)

An Ancient Volcano is Murfreesboro’s Hottest Ticket

Grill, Chill, and Get Your Hands Dirty with Some Good Clean Summer Fun

Ou a c hit a H ighCo u ntr y .com

5


8

12

ART

Creative Directors Marisa Rodgers Judea Robinett

14

COPY

Contributing Writers Grace Ann Brown Randy Hill Jake Ledbetter Lisa Logan Jim G. Miller Judea Robinett Josh Williams Copy Editors Josh Williams

PHOTO

Contributing Photographers Amanda Shelley Ledbetter Judea Robinett Jeremy Rodgers

Departments New to the Ouachitas

Glance Back

8

44

Arkansas Treasure

Revitalizing the Work of E. Fay Jones in Hot Springs Village

10

All Things Fade

Milling Around an Old Ghost Town

The Hunt for Big Al

English Muffin

An Across-the-Pond Classic Meets Southern Hospitality

Music & Arts

14

16

6

Band on the Rise

deFrance: A Sound You are Sure to Remember

Branching Out

From China to Central Arkansas: Y Illustrations Draws Perspective

O u ac h i ta Hi gh C ou nt r y

Josh Williams For advertising opportunities: ohcads@rendercreativegroup.com or call 501-620-4520 For editorial queries: Please write to: Render Creative Group attn: Ouachita High Country 801 Central Avenue, Suite 30 Hot Springs, AR 71901 or email info@rendercreativegroup.com

Hot Springs’ Most Wanted Could Reel in Ten Grand

Fare

12

SALES

In Each Issue

7 18 46

Letter from the Editors

Summer in the South

Calendar of Events

What’s Happening This Summer

To subscribe: Visit ouachitahighcountry.com or see page 3 for mail-in form and full details.

BE SOCIAL WITH US

f

LIKE US ON FACEBOOK facebook.com/ouachitahighcountry

In Your Words

FOLLOW US ON TWITTER twitter.com/ohcmagazine

From Mansfield to Oklahoma City by Jerry Hoyt

FIND US ON INSTAGRAM instagram.com/ouachitahighcountry

Reader’s Submissions:


LETTER FROM THE EDITORS

Summer in the South

Summer in Arkansas can offer some of the most enjoyable and beautiful experiences in one’s lifetime, despite the heat and occasional encounter with the insect world, there is a restorative energy to the hottest season of the year when spent in The Natural State. The Ouachita National Forest is at its lushest, the swimming holes are at the perfect temperature and the denizens are in their most active state.

NEW!

Look for this pin drop symbol for the GPS coordinates to some of the amazing photography and awesome Ouachita locations featured in each issue!

In this issue, we explore some of the typical summertime standards like barbecued ribs and home-made popsicles, but we will also delve into the unknown, specifically the remnants of an ancient volcano that spit out diamonds and the remnants of a ghost mill town that spit out lumber, and unfortunately, all of its residents. If you thought rock-n-roll was dead, deFrance shows you that it’s not. We also take a glimpse at some amazing architecture and two architects from different eras whose work is prevalent in, and just as stunning as, our beautiful home. The lakes are brimming with activity and a local kayaking expert shows us how and where to get the best experience and we somehow ran across some corned beef hash that still lingers in our dreams. All this and much more is waiting inside. So kick back with something cold and enjoy our little corner of the world when it’s most alive. Thanks for reading, and as always, enjoy.

Ou a c hit a H ighCo u ntr y .com

7


NEW TO THE OUACHITAS

A New DeSoto

A

rchitecture has the ability to be one of the greatest art forms in society. Yes, buildings serve a functional purpose first and foremost--such as providing shelter or conducting business matters-but sometimes a building can be so structurally beautiful and interesting that people get lost in them, both metaphorically and literally. Frank Lloyd Wright was one of those architects that mastered the combination of form and function, which resulted in a bevy of structures that have become some of the nation’s most famous buildings; the Guggenheim Museum, Taliesin West and Fallingwater speak for themselves. One of Wright’s most talented and well-known disciples, E. Fay Jones, was a native Arkansan who, interestingly enough, believed in “form after function”-although it’s hard to tell--and the Ouachita Mountain region is lucky enough to contain several iconic works designed by Jones.

8

O u ac h i ta Hi gh C ou nt r y

Restoring the work of E. Fay Jones in Hot Springs Village by Josh Williams photography by Judea Robinett

Euine (pronounced U-wan, an old Welsh form of John) Fay Jones was born in Pine Bluff, Arkansas on January 31, 1921. As a young person, he worked at his father’s business, The People’s Cafe, in El Dorado for years. He had a penchant for drawing and construction that was evident in his early years, validated by the tree houses and underground forts that he constructed on his parents’ property. According to an article in Encyclopedia Arkansas, “After seeing a film about Frank Lloyd Wright and his Johnson Wax Building, he was determined to combine ‘drawing and building.’” He enrolled at the University of Arkansas in 1938 to study architecture, but the only architecture classes offered were in the engineering program, so he studied civil engineering for two and a half years. As World War II began, he decided to enlist in the U.S. Navy. He attained the

rank of lieutenant naval aviator and was a reconnaissance pilot in the Pacific, manning torpedo and dive bombers. While on leave in San Francisco, he married a Hot Springs native, Mary Elizabeth Knox–who is affectionately known as “Gus”–on January 6, 1943. Jones and Knox had met in Little Rock before the war, and in 1945, Jones came back to Little Rock and took a job as a draftsman at an architectural engineering firm. His talents were starting to become noticed, and he was encouraged to come back to the University of Arkansas to enroll in the new architecture program implemented by John Williams. Fay Jones designed 218 structures in his lifetime, 84 of which reside in the state of Arkansas. Eight of those Arkansas structures are on the National Register of Historic Places: the Applegate House


and Cooper Chapel in Benton County, Thorncrown Chapel in Carroll County, the Shaheen/Goodfellow Weekend House in Cleburne County, the Edmondson House in St. Francis County, and the Hantz House and Fay Jones House in Washington County. Other notable Jones houses in Arkansas include houses for members of the Sam Walton family in Benton County, the Pallone House in Pulaski County, the Orval Faubus House in Huntsville (Madison County), and the Alexander House in Washington County. Jones was commissioned for two projects in Hot Springs Village. The West Gate Fountain Complex, the only public fountain he designed, was built in 1970. The DeSoto Recreational Complex was completed in 1972, and it included the golf course cart barn, the 19th Hole building, the pool and the golf clubhouse building. Like most of his structures, Jones utilized wood and stone throughout these buildings, and with long low rooflines, he incorporated the surrounding natural features into these particular pieces. Jones was also commissioned for two private residences in Hot Springs Village, but unfortunately, they were never constructed. There are however, several houses in Hot Springs that are reportedly designed by Jones, and they can’t be verified, but if one ever saw them, it would be obvious. The author of this piece has seen one, and he would bet his life on the rumor being true. The DeSoto Complex Clubhouse building

suffered a blessing in disguise recently and is about finished with a detailed renovation. This is an excerpt from the Hot Springs Village Advocate: “In January 2014, the facility experienced a burst water pipe which caused extensive damage. At this time it was determined that several areas contained asbestos which needed to be removed and abated. Project objectives were: improvements for a more functional space, a full service golf shop, upscale casual dining, a bar and lounge with conversational seating, an enlarged outdoor dining space and a private dining and event space to be used for meetings, events and convention space. The Placemaking team began the search to retain an architectural firm and selected Hight Jackson Associates from Rogers, Arkansas. Hight Jackson has worked on several E. Fay Jones projects in the past, and Larry Perkin, the principal architect, even studied under Jones while obtaining his architectural degree at the University of Arkansas. The design strategy for the project was to keep as much of the original E. Fay Jones design as possible while providing a modernized, updated look. The clearstory and large exterior picture windows remain, flooding the entire space with natural light. The boxy, compartmentalized feel was eliminated by removing walls and opening up the space. The vaulted ceilings in the lobby, along exterior windows and golf shop remain, adding a feeling of

spaciousness. The original stone on the fireplace and lobby floors brings ‘nature,’ a key element in Jones’ design, inside. And the stone surfaces along existing patios, planters and entrances were repaired to their former glory. Some noteworthy design elements are the stained wood ceilings. The double profile trim is repeated throughout the space on window trim, columns and floor details. The ceiling above the bar and back bar wall is constructed of slated wood and is a play on Jones’ linear design. This same slated design aesthetic is used to conceal the heating and air return in the private dining space. The dining floors were finished with a reflective epoxy material, which is not only extremely durable but beautiful as well. The soffit cove lighting gives an inviting, ambient glow to the dining spaces and the golf shop. The new chandeliers give a modernized update to the original chandeliers. Note that Jones’ original chandeliers were repurposed into furnishings throughout the space. The fireplace screen was designed with a linear feel repeating the slated wood and exterior railing design. The existing circular patio curves are repeated in the deck, stairs and planting areas. And the relief detail on the front of the bar combines the linear and circular elements from both the interior and exterior.” For more on Fay Jones, contact the University of Arkansas Libraries at (479) 575-5577 or at libinfo.uark.edu. Ou a c hit a H ighCo u ntr y .com

9


NEW TO THE OUACHITAS

The Hunt for Big Al

T

he waterways of Hot Springs, Arkansas are home to an elusive being. An underwater monster so wanted that a $10,000 price tag has been placed on it’s head. The slick, slimy, phantom-like beast swims just below the surface and then dashes out of sight into the murky depths--its scaly body disappearing into the prismatic ripples of wind-swept lake water. It’s not the Loch Ness monster, or a giant squid. It’s not a whale or an alligator. Many have tried to catch a glimpse-- old men tell of the legendary creature and children listen with rapt attention. They listen to the story of Big Al. Big Al is a fish. Well, technically he’s five fish (one for each of the last five years), but he’s more than just a fish: Big Al is an idea--the idea that anyone with a fishing pole and some luck can literally reel in $10,000.

10

O u ac h i t a Hi gh C ount r y

The behemoth is cunning, and worth a whole lot of dough--just like his historical namesake Al Capone, who was a regular visitor to Hot Springs during the Gangster era. Big Al is one of 71 (60 prize + 11 bonus) fish released in Lake Catherine and Lake Hamilton on May 1 as part of the 5th Annual Hot Springs Fishing Challenge. This year, Big Al is a White Bass, last seen swimming to freedom in Lake Hamilton. Little does Al know, he’s being hunted by hundreds or maybe thousands of fishermen and women. He’s quite the catch, alright. The contest is organized by the Arkansas Game and Fish Commission and is in its fifth year. Participants and those interested in keeping up with the fishing challenge can follow the action on the Visit Hot Springs official facebook page, www. facebook.com/visithotsprings. This year’s

Hot Springs’ Most Wanted Could Reel In Ten Grand by Judea Robinett photography by Judea Robinett

contest is worth $86,000 in cash prizes. Tagged prize and bonus fish have white, noodle-like tags and have been released in Lake Catherine and Lake Hamilton. The contest started on May 1 and goes through July 31. There is no fee for entry, but all participants ages 16 and up must have a valid Arkansas fishing license to be eligible. One can visit a local Walmart or outdoor/ sporting goods store to obtain a fishing license or one can go online through www. ar.wildlifelicense.com. An Arkansas fishing license will only set you back around 11 bucks, and considering one could be pulling in a $500--$10,000 fish, it seems like a pretty low-risk investment. The species of fish in the contest are largemouth bass, spotted (Kentucky) bass, bluegill, catfish, white bass, crappie and walleye. As of this publication’s print date, only seven of the 71 fish have been caught, so get out on the water and reel in that prize!


If you are new to the fishing game and have no idea where to start, don’t worry. Here are some tips that will help you get started on your hunt for Big Al: 1. White Bass like to feed on Shad (those crazy jumping fish with a blue tint) in the morning and evenings. So, if you see a lot of jumping fish in a spot on the lake, that’s your first target. 2. According to fishing pros, the gear doesn’t need to be complicated. A simple grub hooked onto a 1/8 ounce green/ yellow or blue/green jig head will attract White Bass almost better than anything. 3. White Bass really like deep water, so now is the time to call a friend, slather on the sunscreen, grab the ice-box, fishing poles, your fishing license and get out on the boat.

DID YOU KNOW?

According to Arkansas.com, “Lake Hamilton was created in 1932 when the Arkansas Power and Light Co. completed Carpenter Dam on the Ouachita River to generate electricity. Today, the 7,460acre impoundment is one of Arkansas’s most popular recreational and residential lakes. Also, Lake Catherine was created in a virtual wilderness between Hot Springs and Malvern when the Arkansas Power and Light Co. (now Entergy Corp.) completed Remmel Dam in 1924 to generate electricity. It was the state’s first major hydroelectric facility. Though 11 miles long, the lake covers a mere 1,940 acres, being nestled in narrow valleys of the Ouachita Mountains. Al Capone used to visit Hot Springs for networking trips with bootleggers in the area. The bootleggers used the cover of the pine trees native to the Ouachita mountains to hide their distilling and brewing. To get the goods safely past the Feds, Capone had the words “Mountain Valley Water” painted on the side of the railcars transporting the illegal booze back to his operation in Chicago. Today, Mountain Valley Spring Water is a real company based in the Hot Springs area since 1871 that bottles and sells the natural spring water of Hot Springs. Al Capone liked to fish. When living in Miami in the late 1920’s, he would take visitors out on his yacht. Later, after his stay in Alcatraz and his battle with minddegrading syphilis, Capone was reported to have “fished” from a patio overhanging his home swimming pool.

LIVE BAIT Trader Bill’s Outdoor Sports 1530 Albert Pike Rd, Hot Springs (501) 623-8403

The Waypoint at DeSoto Marina 120 Marina Road Hot Springs Village (501) 922-5511

Atchley’s Outpost 5430 Central Avenue, Hot Springs (501) 525-3651

Ruth’s Twin Creek Bait & Tackle 4307 Hwy 270 E, Mt. Ida (870) 867-3904

Caddo Valley Landing 4000 Valley St,, Caddo Valley (870) 230-8899

THE HOTTEST GEAR 2016 REELS Van Staal X Series $739-$839 at vanstaal.com Made of aircraft-grade aluminum. Oscillation system designed to help braided super lines lie more smoothly on the spool. Improved drag system that gives you more fine adjustment options for battles with big fish.

Lamson Guru Series II No. 2 $210 at waterworks-Lamson.com Top marks for value 2016. Fully machined from 6061 bar-stock aluminum. First-rate sealed drag. 4.62 ounces is a perfect match for today’s super light rods.

LINES Seaguar Smackdown $30 at seguar.com Super thin braided line lets you bounce bottom in wind or current very well. Very supple, allowing for long casts. Typically used for salt water fish like sea bass and bottom-hugging striped bass, but Big Al is big.

Suffix Nanobraid $25 at sufix.com Great range of feel from subtle ticks of bass on the tube or duking it out with monster browns. Multi-strand woven braid with a super-skinny profile. Perfect for light tackle with ultra strength and sensitivity.

RODS G. Loomis E6X Swimbait Rod $200 at gloomis.com Stands up to monster fish, but sensitive enough to let you enjoy the fight.

Abu Garcia Villain 2.0 Spinning $200 at abugarcia.com Superior strength and flexibility for slugging it out with everything from largemouths to redfish. Ergonomic reel seat is easy on the hands and the carbon V-wrap is easy on the eyes.

Ou a c hit a H ighCo u nt ry.com

11


FARE

English Muffin

I

t isn’t normal to associate English muffins with Southeastern Conference football. However, the “original” sport of football pairs incredibly well with tea and crumpets. But, we’re not talking about tea and crumpets, here. And most Americans don’t like bouncing balls off of their heads and doing something where you can’t use your hands. Right now, we’re talking about some good ole’ Eggs Benedict, fried potatoes and probably the best corned beef hash in the Ouachita Mountains. Plus, the abundance of hanging Razorback pennants, Bayou Bengal banners and fresh, home made English muffins are sort of like a breakfast bonus. Denise Arbuckle, formerly Denise Egeler, started the English Muffin almost 25 years ago, on April 19, 1992. Her parents, Fred and Barbara Egeler, had

12

O u ac h i t a Hi gh C ount r y

An Across-the-Pond Classic Meets Southern Hospitality by Josh Williams photography by Amanda Shelley Ledbetter

once managed the old Vapors nightclub in downtown Hot Springs, but Barbara really wanted to open a restaurant, so Denise just took the reigns and made sure of that. “I worked at Waffle House for about 10 years and it is pretty much the inspiration for the English Muffin, with some local flavor.” Denise said. “I just love the open-kitchen design. It gives me an opportunity to connect with my customers. I can see them, and they can see me.” Now, the English Muffin isn’t open 24 hours, and there isn’t a FEMA-sanctioned measure of disaster recovery strength known as the English Muffin Index, but nothing looks able to stop the growing force that is the English Muffin. “I have such a great customer base,” Denise said. “So many repeat customers from, not only the locals, but from out-of-

towners and race-meeters (Oaklawn attendees). I have generations of customers. I even have employees that have been with me more than 20 years. I’m very lucky.” One of the reasons Denise’s business has increased every year–besides the excellent service and quality product– is the addition of the famous corned beef hash to the menu. The chunks of corned beef in the hash at this place are like huge gold nuggets of beefy deliciousness. The hash was nice and crispy on the outside and supple in the middle, filled with flavor. “About three years ago,” Denise said, “one of my waitresses mentioned doing it [corned beef] and we just decided to do it. In the beginning, it was falling apart and we weren’t real happy with it, so we kept trying. It’s been a work in progress, but


‘Which came first, the customer or the employee?’ In my case, it’s the employee. That’s why we close at two o’clock, so we can all go to the lake,” Denise finished with a Cheshire Cat-like grin.

we’re pretty happy with the results now.” Most of the English Muffin’s customers are happy with it too, it’s one of their best sellers. Another reason for the English Muffin’s continued success is Denise’s candor and leadership skills. Most businesses close within the first year or two of operation, but for a small, family-run business to be going strong 25 years later? That’s a credit to the ownership, but don’t tell Denise that. “My employees are the real reason we’re still open today. My employees create such a wonderful atmosphere here that the customers always feel comfortable. I like to say

The English Muffin is a very inviting place, too. For sports nuts and local culture enthusiasts, it’s a no-brainer: The entire SEC is represented with hanging banderoles and brightly colored rally signs; picture collages of famous thoroughbreds and their jockeys draped with wreaths of flowers after their Arkansas Derby wins adorn the walls; high definition televisions hang in the corners; the patio offers one of the best views of Lake Hamilton one will find in Hot Springs; the wait staff is friendly, attentive and helpful; it almost feels like a local man-cave with an open kitchen, but for the public. Not everything is peaches and cream, though. With an ever-expanding business model, the need for operating space becomes greater. That’s one problem that the English Muffin is dealing with presently. “If I could go back, I would have bought the space next door too,” Denise laughed. “We are expanding to add a patio on the south side of the building, which as you can see has a beautiful view of Lake Hamilton, and I’m planning on constructing a breezeway in the front of the restaurant. We are

running out of space and I need to do something fast.” Being one of the best breakfast spots in Hot Springs isn’t easy. There are many local eateries that provide great food and excellent service: The Pancake Shop, Colonial Pancake and Waffle House, Alexa’s Creperie and Kollective Coffee + Tea are some fine examples. But, the English Muffin is different. The passion, excitement and energy that comes oozing out of this place is tangible. “The locals are the true secret to my success in Hot Springs,” Denise said. “They keep me going in the winter months, they’re so loyal to me. I really owe everything to them.” Hot Springs Arkansas is a naturally beautiful spot that draws millions every year. It provides numerous entertainment options. From the great restaurants, to the art galleries, to the pubs and performance venues, it’s crucial to make a good first impression in the spa city if you want that repeat business. “You have to be a quick learner in Hot Springs,” Denise proclaimed. “This is a great place, you can live and play here. There is always so much going on. My job is to provide great food and a great experience, period. That’s what it’s all about.” The English Muffin is located at 4832 Central Avenue in the Pointe Plaza on Lake Hamilton in Hot Springs. Call (501) 525-2710 or visit them on Facebook.com/ English Muffin for more. Ou a c hit a H ighCo u nt ry.com

13


MUSIC

Band on the Rise

“W

hen was the last time you heard a real rock and roll song on top 40?” I’m leaning against a brick wall and Drew de France is pacing Main Street, outside The Joint in the Argenta Arts District of North Little Rock. He’s sweaty and hyped from the show he and his band, deFrance just put on at the small venue. deFrance, which hails from Little Rock, is made of up frontman, rhythm guitarist, band leader, songwriter, producer & manager -Drew de France, Daniel Curry on drums, Andrew Poe on lead guitar, Zach Williams on bass and Joseph Fuller on Keys.

searching for a better option. Something not totally soul-crushing. I don’t have much success. “Kings of Leon?” I respond. Both of us agree that whenever and whoever it was, doesn’t really matter. The point is, that somehow we have come to a point in the American musical and cultural landscape, where rock n’ roll, once the most ubiquitous sound of American culture, has become in some ways a meme, a stand-in for “what came before.” With a few exceptions (Alabama Shakes, The Black Keys, Elle King) there is very little good, and more importantly, new rock n’ roll being made these days.

We are talking about Rock n’ Roll, which isn’t really a surprise since it’s what the musician has dedicated his life to. What caught me off guard is the question he just posed. “Nickleback?” he throws out. I grimace,

It’s a genre relegated to the seniors-line, the same great but passe hits being churned out at bars catering to the 60+ crowds and quietly pumped out the vents at the grocery store. Rock n’ roll is not dead, but it’s been commodified,

14

O u ac h i t a Hi gh C ount r y

deFrance: A Sound You are Sure to Remember by Judea Robinett photography by Judea Robinett

sterilized, and stamped with the “vintage” sticker-- safe for consumption by even the most innocent of ears. The band which has been together just a little over a year, has just returned from shows out west in Arizona, Texas, and California and are happy to be home in Little Rock for a few days before heading out again. When asked how they managed to form, record almost two albums and put a tour together so quickly-the band unanimously gives Drew the credit. It’s clear from the get go that this is his project and that he is in every way the leader of the band. “I started the band because I just got out of a really bad break up,” he tells me. “Not only did I break up with a girlfriend but with a band too and I was just sitting on so many songs.”


Before forming deFrance, Drew and drummer Daniel Curry were working in landscaping while playing part time for other bands (Drew previously played guitar for Stephen Neeper & the Wildhearts). Drew and Daniel, who have been friends since early childhood days in Camden, Ark, were both getting burned out quickly with the yard work jobs. “I just said, we are turning into old men doing this…” says Drew remembering how he felt during that time. Providence stepped in though, and the business he and Daniel worked for, closed. “I almost shook his hand when he fired us.” Drew recalls of his former boss, laughing. The rest fell together pretty quickly after that. Drew and Daniel recorded some tracks and started putting together a tour. “I realized I had all these shows coming up, and thought - I need a band,” says Drew. Soon came Andrew Poe (Lucious Spiller) on guitar and then Joseph Fuller (5 Point Cove, Big Dam Horns) on keyboard. Drew saw Joseph standing in on keys for another local band and immediately co-opted him for deFrance. The very next day, Joseph went from playing in nine different bands to being a member of deFrance. Things move quickly when Drew is driving. About 6 months later, when the band needed a bassist (Drew and Andrew had been trading off) it didn’t take long to find Zach Williams. “I responded to a facebook ad,” says Zach. “I was looking for a date and found a band,” he says joking, adding that he has been happily with the same girlfriend for almost 10 years. The bassist was the final piece of the puzzle and deFrance has been working at a frenetic speed since. Not only are they unusually driven and focused for a band so young but the music itself is the heart of what makes this band so interesting. The high-energy roots rock deFrance plays is at once familiar and fresh. The band is mostly unanimous in their influences. Jimi Hendrix, Tom Petty, Ryan Adams, The Grateful Dead and even elements of punk like The Ramones all show up in the tunes. There is also a real soul and R&B thread especially in the newer songs coming on the next album--it’s not the influences that are fresh (though the band does say they love to listen to top 40), but the way they incorporate them into a sound that is mostly rock n roll, but with a little something else...That“otherness” that makes music stick to you and move you--that is what makes them remarkable.

Back at The Joint on Thursday night, the band is on stage about to play to a mostly empty room. The citizens of Central Arkansas seem to be staying home this night. The restless, zombie-like wandering of patrons in search of beer and music to offset the still and sticky heat of summer nights is right around the corner. But as though it were a packed house, Andrew Poe kicks off the set with a high octane riff that blares and wobbles--like a bird taking flight then dipping precariously close to the ground to catch air at just the right moment, the riff breathes and you feel your pulse in your ears. The song has taken flight, so naturally and seamlessly into a raucous jam of an opener, that it makes you feel as though you might have just imagined the whole harrowing past seven seconds if not for your heart rate telling you it happened. deFrance is cohesive, innovative, powerful and driven. You can hear Hendrix in “Poe’s” wandering solos, Petty & Stevie Ray in the way Drew lets the lyrics drip from his mouth like water over rocks, the R&B and 60’s pop influences in the way Zach chooses his counterpoint, Joseph builds harmonic tones into the fabric of a song just to get a little low down and funky, with a “Hammond” sound. Curry drives the heartbeat of hardrock and metal beats into your chest. Somehow, all of these elements mix just right, making songs accessible and yet interesting. Pulsequickening yet singable. It’s in this way that deFrance is doing something completely counter culture. They are making Rock N’ Roll music for their own generation and on their own terms and most importantly with their own style. “I don’t think of us as a Southern Rock band,” says Drew, “but a lot of people do and that’s cool. If you’ve got to label us then that’s fine.” Zach disagrees saying he doesn’t think that fits, he thinks the band sounds so unique because of where it grew out of--a state that takes a little bit of its flavor and personality from its neighbors and then makes something new with them. “I’m cool with being labeled as an Arkansas rock band,” he says. One thing the band can all agree on? They are psyched to be doing what they are doing. Joseph sums up the band’s current attitude– “There is no big get, this is it, this is life.”

Live!

MUST SEE SHOWS Mountain Sprout @Maxine’s Hot Springs $10 July 22 10:15pm Mountain Sprout (out of Eureka Springs) is a libertarian/redneck/ bluegrass/comedy band that will have you wanting to play the spoons and dance a jig. Always a fun show with great energy and lots of quirky songs.  deFrance @Midtown Billiards Little Rock FREE Aug 5 2:00am One of the few remaining dive’s in the area, and one of Arkansas’ greatest live music traditions, catching a show at Midtown is a unique experience that you won’t soon forget. Hometown band, deFrance will rock the house with their up-tempo classic rock sound, the beer will be cold and cheap and you might be able to worm your way into a game of pool with some questionable new friends. Hays Carll @The Rev Room Little Rock $20 Aug 27th 9:00pm Former Hendrix University student, Hays Carll returns to the Natural State on his way back from Austin. Thoughtful, rootsy songwriting and that Texas twang make this a great show for those seeking something a little more mellow and thought provoking. The love-lorn, or just fans of music with conversation, will enjoy this show.

Ou a c hit a H ighCo u nt ry.com

15


ARTS

Branching Out

A

rtistry takes talent, but to achieve true success, it takes a certain level of commitment and discipline; architectural artist Yang Luo-Branch knows all about discipline. At the ripe old age of 24, Luo-Branch emigrated from China to America to pursue her interest in architectural design. Today she lives out her dream as founder of Y-Illustrations. Luo-Branch grew up in a traditional Chinese home in central China where she received her undergraduate degree in architecture. As a child, her family pushed her towards academics and the arts; as a result she is a skilled pianist and dancer, but chooses to hang her hat on a different medium--paper. She began drawing around the age of six, and at nine she won an international children’s drawing contest in Japan.

16

O u ac h i t a Hi gh C ount r y

From China to Central Arkansas, Y Illustrations Draws Perspective by Grace Ann Brown photography by Amanda Shelley Ledbetter

After completing a five year undergraduate program in her home country, Luo-Branch packed her bags and pursued her version of the American Dream by attending Texas Tech University to complete her master’s in sociology, and later her PhD in urban planning. “The first year was tough, I’m very lucky my first move was to a university campus,” said Luo-Branch. As a graduate student, Luo-Branch taught architecture and freehand drawing at design studios part-time for four and a half years. Although she felt out of her element teaching, it was an enriching experience that allowed her to refresh on the fundamentals. Luo-Branch’s specialty lies in drawing structures, mostly from photographs.

She feels that her work exceeds photography, because she can manipulate the landscape around a building that would otherwise obstruct a clear view. The structures she draws all have some meaning to them; she prefers to stay away from generic structures because the lack of emotional attachment to it. Her degree in sociology allows her to understand the relationship people form with these structures, and she enjoys creating works people will appreciate on a much deeper emotional level. Working meticulously over the past ten years to perfect her skills, Luo-Branch continuously draws, but it took her husband commissioning her to do a piece for her to actually start drawing for a living. After finishing an illustration of the Old Main building at the University


of Arkansas just one year ago, she had the idea to brand her work. Today she works closely with Hot Springs Village assisting with its redevelopment and she also draws independently under the name Y-Illustrations. “I’m just satisfied I’ve had this chance,” she said. Luo-Branch has experience in both 2D modeling and 3D design, allowing her to excel at her job. Comfortable in most mediums, Luo-Branch allows each piece to speak to her individually before she chooses her plan of attack. She mostly works with pens, markers, and colored pencils; however she plans on integrating watercolors into her work in the near future. Identifying as an artist proved to be one of the biggest challenges she has faced over the course of her career. The negative connotation surrounding the title really threw her for a loop, making her feel like attaching the label would hold her back.

“I had a really hard time taking on the title in the beginning. People hear you’re an artist and automatically feel like it’s more of a hobby than an actual profession. I felt that my work was too good to fall into that preconceived notion,” she said. Eventually, she accepted the role and began making a name for herself in the local art community, drawing a commissioned piece of the DeSoto Club in Hot Springs Village and an aerial view of Little Rock. Luo-Branch recently presented her work publicly at DeLuca’s Pizzeria in downtown Hot Springs. She was visiting the establishment with her husband one day, and decided her work would look good hanging on the walls. This was the first public venue she approached with the idea, and after viewing her work, the owner was more than happy to display it in his restaurant. “I think it went really well; I got a lot of exposure,” she said.

Her most recent challenge comes in the form of marketing her brand, like most artists. She hopes to extend her reach throughout the artistic community, and continue to work on commissioned pieces. Recently, she finished two of those commissioned pieces; the Majestic Hotel in downtown Hot Springs and the new skywalk at Mid-America Science Museum. “I’m very fortunate my husband is so supportive. He helps me with everything and accepts the artist lifestyle,” she said. Luo-Branch’s work is featured on her website, www.yillustrations. com, her Facebook page, and on her Instagram account @yillustration501. Currently she is accepting submissions for commissioned pieces, and prefers to draw buildings that have a strong sentimental meaning to the commissioner. Her eye for detail and background in architecture make her works stand out from the crowd, like that new building in the old neighborhood. Ou a c hit a H ighCo u nt ry.com

17


SUMMER EVENT CALENDAR

UPCOMING EVENTS 5

July

Miss Arkansas Pageant Hot Springs Convention Center

8-10

Tesla Fest Mid America Science Museum

23

8

25

9

Magic Springs Concert Series “38 Special” Magic Springs Timberwood Amphitheater Hot Springs Concert Band Free Summer Contest Series Whittington Park, Hot Springs

30

9

Summerfest Uptown on Park Avenue 100-700 blocks, Hot Springs

11

Hot Springs Concert Band Free Summer Contest Series Whittington Park, Hot Springs

16

Magic Springs Concert Series “Colton Dixon” Magic Springs Timberwood Amphitheater

21

Sunrise Yoga on Balboa Beach 476 Ponce de Leon Dr, Hot Springs Village hsvticketsales.com

22

The Monkees in Concert Oaklawn’s Finish Line Theatre

22-23

30th Season of Hickory Hill Hickory Hill Park, 216 Bryant Rd., Hot Springs

23

4th Annual Crystal Music Festival Board Camp Crystal Mine, Mena crystalmusicfestival.com

18

O u ac h i t a Hi gh C ount r y

4H & Down on the Farm Day at Magic Springs Magic Springs Magic Springs Concert Series “Dwight Yoakam” Magic Springs Timberwood Amphitheater

31

South Hot Springs Lions Club Gun and Knife Show Hot Springs Convention Center

August

11-13

40th Annual Hope Watermelon Festival 800 Mockingbird, Hope

13

Cutwell 4 Kids presents “Birth of an Artist” Hot Springs Convention Center

18

Full Moon Paddle on Lake Ouachita Sponsored by Hot Springs Village Basecamp Lake Ouachita | BasecampAR.com

Gallery Walk Local Galleries in Historic Downtown Hot Springs The Pocket Theatre presents “Sweeny Todd” 170 Ravine St., Hot Springs

Concert Violinist Oksana Coronado Community Center, 150 Ponderosa Way, Hot Springs Village hsvticketsales.com

Magic Springs Concert Series “Blues Traveler” Magic Springs Timberwood Amphitheater

5

5-14

Hot Springs Concert Band Free Summer Contest Series Whittington Park, Hot Springs

6

Summer Short Shorts: Short Comedic Plays by the Village Players Club Grove Park,1105 DeSoto Blvd., Hot Springs Village Magic Springs Concert Series “Candlebox” Magic Springs Timberwood Amphitheater

Vince Gill in Concert Oaklawn’s Finish Line Theatre

19-20

Photo Expo 2016 Arkansas 4H Center, 1 Four-H Way Little Rock

21

Stardust Big Band Tea Dance Arlington Resort Hotel & Spa

22

Hot Springs Concert Band Free Summer Contest Series Whittington Park, Hot Springs


27-28

30th Season of Hickory Hill Hickory Hill Park, 216 Bryant Rd., Hot Springs

27

8

Once Upon A Time - An Arkansas Fairy Tale: Benefiting United Cerebral Palsy of Arkansas Statehouse Convention Center

Corner Store Country Run 5K War Memorial Stadium

FEATURED SUMMER WINNER:

Hot Springs Fun City Chorus presents “Boys of Baseball” Hot Springs Convention Center

31

Spa City Summer Fest: Jazz & Blues Festivals Begin Various Venues throughout Hot Springs HSJazzSociety.org

8-10

Arkansas State Parks Legacy Week Lake Catherine State Park

September

2

Gallery Walk Local Galleries in Historic Downtown Hot Springs

2-4

Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Bailey® Presents Circus XTREME® Verizon Arena

11th Annual Hot Springs Open Motorcycle Rally Hot Springs Convention Center

9

10

19th Annual Terry Paul Thode Memorial Golf Tournament Diamondhead Country Club, 245 Independence Dr., Hot Springs

4

2nd Hispanic Heritage Festival Magic Springs Stardust Big Band Tea Dance Arlington Resort Hotel & Spa

12

5

John Denver Tribute Starring Roy Rivers Woodlands Auditorium, 1101 DeSoto Boulevard, Hot Springs Village

Submit your camping photos for our Fall issue to win prizes from local sponsors! Use the hashtags #campOHC and

Peter Cetera in Concert Oaklawn’s Finish Line Theatre

#arkansas.wanderlust

Paper Airplane Championship Clinton Presidential Park 1200 President Clinton Ave., Little Rock

Meteor Shower Paddle on Lake Ouachita Sponsored by Hot Springs Village Basecamp Lake Ouachita BasecampAR.com

#ouachitahighcountry to enter your chance to win!

RULES:

• Photo must be taken in close proximity to the Ouachita High Country Region/ Ouachita National Forest • No nudity • Submission deadline Aug. 20th • Must include the tags: #campOHC and #ouachitahighcountry

@OUACHITAHIGHCOUNTRY.C19OM

Ou a c hit a H ighCo u nt ry.com


PADDLING

Calming

WATERS Endless Paddling Adventures on Arkansas’ Largest Lake

by Lisa Logan photography by Jeremy Rodgers

20

O u ac h i t a Hi gh C ount r y


N

o matter what level of kayaking experience you may have, from beginner to expert whitewater kayaker, Lake Ouachita offers an endless array of paddling adventures. Whether you own or rent your boat, you can visit this lake time and again and not run out of places to explore. Lake Ouachita is well known as being the largest lake in Arkansas located entirely within the state’s borders and is often quoted as being over 40,000 acres with more than 700 miles of undeveloped shoreline and over 100 islands, at pool level. Perhaps less well-known is how the size and shape of Lake Ouachita really compares to other area lakes and how this impacts recreation activities on the lake.

this: Following paved highways, it takes over two hours to drive the 100 mile route around Lake Ouachita. And, Lake Ouachita’s 700 miles of shoreline are equal to the straight line distance from Little Rock, Arkansas to Jacksonville, Florida.

The intricately meandering shoreline of Lake Ouachita is a result of the manner in which the lake was created. Formerly part of the Ouachita River basin, the lake was created in the 1950’s by the construction of the Blakely Mountain Dam by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. For a man-made lake, Lake Ouachita feels incredibly natural due to its undeveloped shoreline and protected location within the Ouachita National Forest. The lake is also “Not just a well-stocked with fisherman’s paradise, game fish and attracts a variety Lake Ouachita is a of wildlife.

34.609475 -93.344155

To gain a bit of perspective on the sheer scale of Lake Ouachita, consider the following: If you were to combine paddler’s dream.” the other four lakes comprising the area’s It is not just a “Diamond Lakes” – Lake Hamilton, fisherman’s paradise, Lake Ouachita is a Lake Catherine, Lake Greeson, and paddler’s dream. The variations in her DeGray Lake – it would still be 10,000 extraordinarily long shoreline allow acres smaller than Lake Ouachita. It’s for seemingly endless exploration and important to note that all this water, while provide opportunities for paddlers of all providing plenty of space for the lake’s experience levels to have fun, create many visitors to explore without crowding adventures, get some exercise, and each other, allows for the wind to pick improve their kayaking skills. up speed, which can create waves and rough water, sometimes nearing open New paddlers can easily learn water conditions. Before you venture kayaking basics, like getting in and far from the shoreline, prepare yourself out of the kayak and basic propulsion with a kayak skirt and a hand powered and maneuvering strokes, and be bilge pump. adventure-ready on their first outing, prepared to explore one of the small For a little more perspective on Lake coves near the marinas offering kayak Ouachita’s lengthy shoreline, consider rentals. While ideally, one’s introduction Ou a c hit a H ighCo u nt ry.com

21


PADDLING

to kayaking should be with a person having sufficient paddling experience – a friend, family member, or tour guide – there’s nothing wrong with renting a kayak from a local marina or outdoor outfitter and, while staying close to the shore and wearing a properly fitted PFD (personal flotation device), figuring it out the good old fashioned way–by doing. You may fall out of your boat a few times, but soon enough you’ll get the hang of it.

“When you look out toward the lake from an island at Buckville, the rest of the word slips away.”

Despite the various benefits to visitors provided by local marinas, there are many advantages to getting away from the crowds around the marinas including: Increased safety from motorized boat traffic, more abundant wildlife viewing, less noise, and more available campsites. Experienced paddlers can embark on more ambitious adventures leading away from the local marinas to explore various coves and do some island hopping. Whitewater enthusiasts can practice their rolls and paddle skills year-round when the creeks are low to keep those paddle muscles fit and toned. Some of the most ideal places to kayak are on the North side of the lake. Be sure to map your route to these locations ahead of time and don’t count on GPS to get you there as cellular service along Highway 298 is intermittent. Here are a few of the local’s favorite spots:

Buckville Buckville is located approximately 25 miles West of Hot Springs Village. To get there, take Highway 7 North to 298 W to Buckville Road South, and then follow the signs to the Buckville Use Area. Buckville is an ideal location for a day of kayaking fun in the sun, free from the hustle and bustle of daily activity. Many small islands dot the shoreline offering an easily accessible and safe place to island hop, away from heavy motor boat traffic. Spend the day exploring, swimming and snorkeling, hanging out in a hammock and taking in wide sweeping views of the open

22

O u ac h i t a Hi gh C ount r y

34.609475 -93.344155


lake. When you look out toward the lake from an island at Buckville, the rest of the word slips away. As the horizon line disappears in faded images of islands, water, and soft old mountain tops, you’ll find yourself on an island paradise. The Buckville campground offers several nonreversible primitive campsites, for tent or trailer camping, with a pit toilet, but no power or potable water.

Rabbit Tail Rabbit Tail is also located in the small community of Buckville. Rabbit Tail can best be described as a “cove of coves”... long remote coves. This location is ideal for fishing, with plenty of submerged standing timber to fish around and steep banks dropping into the water. Rabbit Tail is also a superb wildlife viewing location. Each time you paddle around the point on one of these coves you could find yourself quietly sneaking up on deer or waterfowl and eyeing an egret or a great blue heron eyeing you and preparing to burst into flight. Waterfowl are commonly seen here in abundance, including eagles, cormorants, purple martins, ducks and loons. For those embarking on a day of exploration in this

area, be sure to bring a GPS device with sufficient battery power for the duration of your outing. Even experienced paddlers are hard pressed to find their way back without the assistance of a GPS tracking device.

Irons Fork A bit further West on Highway 298, at the northern most point of Lake Ouachita, down a long convoluted arm from the main body of the lake, is the Irons Fork Recreational Area. This is another great location for fishing and exploration. An overall good fishing spot, this area also has many grassy areas when the water is low in the fall. From here, you can paddle a short way up Muse Creek, or explore Irons Creek, a beautiful clear creek with some pretty bluffs. Strong paddlers looking for a challenge can embark on the a long, arduous paddle out to the main lake and back. Irons Fork also offers a rustic camping area.

Twin Creeks On the south side of the lake, another great location for kayaking is the

Twin Creeks Use Area. Several small creeks and the south branch of the Ouachita River flow into this area and always provide good wildlife viewing opportunities. At Twin Creeks, you can head right out of the boat ramp to get to Denby Bay, where the LOViT (Lake Ouachita Vista Trail) begins. Here you are likely to see deer and wading birds. Eagle sightings are fairly common here as well. The campground is nice and has a covered fishing pavilion. Wherever and however you choose to kayak Lake Ouachita, keep in mind, kayaking is safer where there is less boat traffic. Always be aware of boats in your area, look and listen for them, and keep in mind that they may not see you. Wear bright colors so you are more visible. If you own your own kayak, mount a kayak safety flag. Consider carrying a kayak skirt, in case the wind picks up, to keep the waves out of your boat. A swamped boat is no fun. Be sure to bring along a hand powered bilge pump. Carry a good bright flashlight to signal your presence to motor boats at night just in case you get caught out after sunset. Attach a marine safety whistle to your PFD, and always wear it. Happy kayaking! Ou a c hit a H ighCo u nt ry.com

23


24

O u ac h i t a Hi gh C ount r y

Blue Bird Falls 34.375275 -93.169342


Jump into

SUMMER Exploring the Swimming Holes of Ouachita High Country

by Jim G. Miller photography by Jeremy Rodgers

Ou a c hit a H ighCo u nt ry.com

25


SWIMMING HOLES

“When the temperature rises, we recognize the gracious resource of water that abundantly flows down the small foothills of the Ouachitas.�

26

O u ac h i t a Hi gh C ount r y

Crystal Springs Rec Area 34.479023 -93.638768


Hopper Blue Hole 34.347057 -93.689000

S

wimming holes heal the body and the soul. Before the advent of air conditioning, it didn’t really matter how poor one’s family was, if people were lucky enough to live near a good hole of water then they had very few cares in the world, especially on an August day in south Arkansas. This still holds true today: when the temperature rises, we recognize the gracious resource of water that abundantly flows down from the small foothills of the Ouachita National Forest littering the landscape with brilliant miniature Shangri-La’s. Some of these “pools of paradise” are easy to find, whereas some are only found after a concerted journey or hike. A winding map of scenic highways and country-road beauty begets more beauty on the path to these natural pools of enjoyment.

Gulpha Gorge Campground, located on Gorge Road between Highway 7 North and Highway 270 East. There are a lot of small creeks with fine swimming spots scattered on the Arkansas map, with some being more appealing than others. Skip a rock and one will most certainly find one.

Before embarking on the pursuit of a new favorite swimming hole, one must ask, “What truly makes for a good swimming area?” Some define a swimming hole as an area of water at least waist-deep where they can cool themselves on a hot sunny day. An example of this would be the creek at

A popular creek area for many is off Bull Bayou Road near National Park College and Mid-America Science Museum. A small tributary that flows into Lake Hamilton, this swimming area divides the border between Hot Springs National Park and Garland County and affords a brilliant cliff face view. An

An out-of-the-way swimming spot is the increasingly popular Cool Pool. Located off Highway 7 on a little patch of the old highway, the dead end road is now called Bluebird. Drive to the end of what’s left of the old blacktop and follow the sound of small waterfalls gushing down from a natural beauty of creation. The water flow of this rather cold spring has created a nice little spot to get wet while also affording the opportunity to play beneath a small waterfall.

unusual landscape carved for centuries by the flow of the creek, this area is not quite as cold as other swimming areas and offers a good mid-day respite from the heat. The Blue Hole is, of course, a mecca of swimming areas in the area primarily because of its size and its reputation among people throughout Arkansas, Texas and many other states in the region. Through the ever increasing speed of technology, people have managed to discover this massive hole of water by viewing shared pictures and social media posts. Originally a mine for bauxite, the crew eventually hit a natural spring that filled the entire excavation site and ceased mining operations. Rumor has it that there is still major machinery left at the bottom, though in order to discover it, one would need scuba gear. The deepest swimming hole around, the Blue Hole goes down hundreds of feet. The mere depth of the Blue Hole has, of course, led a more adventurous sort to jump in from areas as high as twenty to forty feet. A brave few have even ventured to jump from higher elevations, however, this is Ou a c hit a H ighCo u nt ry.com

27


SWIMMING HOLES

“Swimming holes are a reminder of the accidental beauty that results when the forces of nature shape our landscape.�

28

O u ac h i t a Hi gh C ount r y

Charlton 34.517488 -93.381600


not at all recommended. If you are feeling energetic and brave, the view from the very top of the Blue Hole offers a marvelous perspective of the entire landscape. Charlton Recreation Area is also another very popular swimming area. Open to the public during specific portions of the year, the State Park Service maintains the campground and the swimming area throughout the summer. A cold spring-fed swimming area, Charlton is just between Hot Springs and Mt. Ida, which is also a major area for those interested in quartz crystal digging. The spillway at Lake Balboa has been engineered into a fantastic spot to swim in Hot Springs Village. Why would one check out the spillway when there’s an excellent beach already on Balboa? There’s an excellent waterfall that can literally be climbed into–there is just something about feeling the rush of water flow over you. The constant running of a creek, river or stream is a reminder that there is vibrant life all around.

Blue Bird Falls 34.375275 -93.169342

There are many other interesting pockets and pools of water that are maintained and cherished by those who have adopted them as their own special summer getaways for recreation and relaxation. For many, these are nostalgic spots from their youth. For others, these places provide something to look forward to when the sun is at its most brutal. Swimming holes are a reminder of the accidental beauty that results when the forces of nature shape our landscape. These sunny sanctuaries were not put here for just locals to enjoy, but for everyone, including the wildlife of Arkansas. Exercise caution when visiting them and please be conscientious about recycling your trash and anything that may have been left behind by others. Public littering is one major threat to swimming spots, and by leaving no trace of yourself and others, you will help preserve these areas for future generations to enjoy. Enjoy your summer, watch for snakes and other wildlife, and regardless of where you swim, choose your holes wisely and stay cool my friends.

Clearfork Trail 34.509029 -93.391424 Ou a c hit a H ighCo u nt ry.com

29


CRATER OF DIAMONDS

Can Ya’

by Josh Williams photography by Amanda Shelley Ledbetter

DIG IT? An Ancient Volcano is Murfreesboro’s Hottest Ticket

30

O u ac h i t a Hi gh C ount r y


O

ne of the great things about living in The Natural State is that one can easily be exposed to Mother Earth in ways that city slickers cannot. Take the Ouachita or Ozark Mountains: Millions of acres of untouched natural geography in the form of lush forests and majestic views. Or, Arkansas has the Buffalo River: America’s first national river that flows for nearly 150 miles, contains 95,000 acres of public land on its edges, is encased by imposing limestone bluffs and is one of the last remaining nondammed rivers in the country today. Or, there’s Blanchard Springs Canyon: A three-level, largely developed cave system where its crystalline formations continually change over time due to an ongoing mountain spring that pours into Mirror Lake, just below the cavern. There is even one place near the Ouachita Forest where anybody, young or old, could pad their retirement savings just by playing in the dirt. Crater of Diamonds State Park is located just south of the Ouachita National Forest in the burg of Murfreesboro in southwestern Arkansas. John Huddleston was the first person outside South Africa to find diamonds at their source; he found them in Murfreesboro,

Arkansas in August 1906, and decided to open a park to the public. Park Interpreter Waymon Cox said, “To our knowledge, Crater of Diamonds State Park is the only place in North America where anyone can search for real diamonds in their original volcanic source and keep any diamond or other rock or mineral they find. The opportunity for the public to search for diamonds where they originally erupted

“...the only place in North America where anyone can search for real diamonds in their original volcanic source...” to the surface is exceedingly rare.” The “boomtown” atmosphere created by the discovery of “girl’s best friends” put a huge spotlight on the sleepy little cotton settlement, and numerous people and entities took notice: Tourists from all over the world started trying their luck in the muck; Attorney/Banker Sam Reyburn led a group of Little Rock investors to purchase 243 acres of the

volcanic crater a month after diamonds were discovered there; of course, the Feds got their greedy little hands in on the action, taking over the park during World War 2 to extract the gems “for war use.” Right. After Uncle Sam gutted the place and took what it needed, it returned the property to its previous owners, and the tourist attraction was facing a bleak outlook. Howard Millar, an accomplished writer and promoter, stepped in and salvaged the fledgling tourist attraction and reopened the Crater of Diamonds attraction in 1952, garnering unprecedented publicity for the site. In 1956, the Star of Arkansas was found at the site. It weighed in at an astonishing 15.33 carats and is still the largest diamond ever found on record at the mine. Not a bad haul for digging in the mud for a few hours; Surely a moment to remember for all eternity for that individual. Waymon said, “Registering large diamonds is always exciting. I remember being the first park employee to hold the 8.66-carat White Illusion Diamond in 2011. It’s the largest diamond I’ve ever seen and the third-largest found since the Crater of Diamonds became an Arkansas State Park in 1972. Last year, I had the Ou a c hit a H ighCo u nt ry.com

31


CRATER OF DIAMONDS

privilege of registering the 8.52-carat Esperanza Diamond and later went to North Little Rock to experience it being cut into a 4.6-carat triolette shape by master diamond cutter Mike Botha. I have very fond memories of many of the visitors I have met over the years from all over the world.” The land that occupies the state park is part of a volcano that is more than 95 million years old and it’s really quite an unusual source for diamonds. For all the geologists, archaeologists and rock hounds out there–the diamonds in Murfreesboro came from the Lamproite magma in the upper mantle of the earth’s crust. Most diamonds in the world originate from the Kimberlite magma and are not as easily brought to the surface. And it’s not just about diamonds at the park. There are numerous different gems that have been found there over the years: amethyst, agate, jasper, garnet, Quartz, calcite, phlogopite and baryte are on the list. There aren’t too many holes in the earth where one can

32

O u ac h i t a Hi gh C ount r y

find the veritable cornucopia of gems that can be found in Murfreesboro. It’s not as easy as it seems though. It’s not like the park has big signs with flashing lights pointing at the stones. As the saying goes, “You gotta do some digging.” Waymon advises, “Prepare well ahead of your visit. Do your research on diamonds and how to find them. I would recommend bringing a bucket, shovel, and screens if you have them. Be prepared to get dirty, and dress for outside work. You’ll also want a bag or bucket to take your gravel home. Not many visitors take their gravel home, but those who do essentially double their chances of finding diamonds. About half of all diamonds registered at the park are found by visitors who search through their sifted gravel at home.” Being accessible to entire families is the best part. In addition to the diamond mine, the park offers an aquatic playground, complete with slides and pools. The park also offers laundry services, a restaurant and

a gift shop. There is an enclosed, climate-controlled pavilion for events and parties. There are numerous trails for hiking and biking, and they have 47 campsites near the Little Missouri River. I mean, what kid doesn’t like playing in the dirt and then jumping in the pool? And what mom doesn’t like diamonds? And what dad doesn’t like knowing that he took his family to a place where everyone had a good time and he comes away as a hero or something? “Arkansans often take it for granted that there is a beautiful state park within driving distance where they can actually search for real diamonds,” Waymon said. “We don’t often think about how special this place is and how much fun it is for families to go diamond searching together. We often meet visitors who first came here as kids, and now they are bringing their kids and grandkids back. It’s a great multigenerational experience.” For more on Crater of Diamonds State Park, call (870) 285-3113, or visit www. craterofdiamondsstatepark.com.


Do you have psoriasis? Do you have red, thick patches We are currently conducting a research study to compare an on your skin? Do they often investigational topical with an already marketed topical cream and a itch and have silvery scales? placebo. ou may have plaque psoriasis. drug or placebo, and compensation for time and travel.

Right now, we’re enrolling adults who You may be eligible to participate if you are: have had moderate to severe plaque 18 years or older psoriasis for at least six months in our 4 times research study of an investigational medication. To qualify, you must have Male or non-pregnant female moderate to severe plaque psoriasis on at least ten percent of your body. Diagnosed as having moderate to severe Papulopustular Rosacea Compensation may be provided. to get all the details on participating

in the study.

501.620.4449 3633 Central Avenue, Suite I

PHARMACEUTICAL RESEARCH

3633 Central Avenue, Suite 1 Hot Springs, AR 71913 501-620-4449

experienceTroon

Let Troon Golf Vacations plan your next golf getaway to Hot Springs!

Troon Golf Vacations at Hot Springs Village start at just $166!* > 2 nights in a lakeside, four bedroom Hot Springs Village vacation home > 2 rounds of golf at Hot Springs Village Desoto & Magellan > Packages start at $166* pp/nt based on quad occupancy

Troon GoLf VacaTionS DeSTinaTionS incLuDe HoT SprinGS ViLLaGe, ScoTTSDaLe, fLoriDa, TexaS anD beyonD! for DeTaiLS ViSiT

TroonGolfVacaTions.com

Call 800.548.4920 and reference package TVAR1002 or let our expert Troon Golf Vacation planners customize a vacation that suits your needs.

Ou a c hit a H ighCo u nt ry.com TG_Vacations_7x5.indd 1

33

2/9/15 1:49 PM


“POWER OVER PESTS” Protecting the Health and Property of Arkansas People

MILLER MILLER

CHURCHWELL LAW FIRM

control company with an office within Hot Springs Village.

We will cover every aspect of your potential legal needs.

Locally owned and operated in HSV since 1970 Call us for quick and reliable

With over 75 years of combined experience, we can help.

service for your termite, household pests, and nuisance wildlife control needs.

Brent A. Miller Gary C. Miller Joseph E. Churchwell

501-623-HELP

(4357)

Fa m i ly l aw • C r i m i n a l • T r u s T s / E s TaT E s P E r s o n a l i n j u ry • m u C h m o r E

34

O u ac h i t a Hi gh C ount r y

Protecting the health and The only and pest property oftermite Arkansas people

5 Ponderosa Way Hot Springs Village 5 Ponderosa Way (501) 922-3585 Hot Springs Village (501) 922-3585 www.terminixhsv.com www.terminixhsv.com


make your

Classic Grill, chill and get your hands dirty with some good, clean, summer fun.

photography Judea Robinett

Ou a c hit a H ighCo u nt ry.com

35


SUMMER CLASSICS

grill

like a boss

by Randy Hill of Southern Krunk BBQ

36

O u ac h i t a Hi gh C ount r y


S

ummer is here and nothing could smoke besmirch your meat! Smoke should be more satisfying than stunning be colorless, or as they say in the industry, your friends like “blue steel.” At with a world famous, higher temps, smoke “You need not be a award winning produces esters, certified pit master or those aromatic rings rib recipe. Andy Allen won the rib ‘krunkologist’ to make we learned about category at the in biochemistry. As these eye-popping, Jack Daniel’s World for temperature, 225 Championship a degrees is ideal, mouth-watering, couple of years ago, but anywhere in this candy-sticks of joy.” and he would kill neighborhood will do. me if I gave you his recipe, so how about mine? No? What if Next, wait a couple of hours or so. You’ll I told you I used this recipe to beat Andy want to see the meat pull about a quarter upon occasion? Okay then. You can inch away from the bone. Then its time make your own world-class ribs at home to bring out the “Texas Crutch,” a.k.a. this summer with a few easy steps. aluminum foil (seriously, do they still make tin foil?) You will want to place You need not be a certified pit master a generous ribbon of the Blue Genie or “krunkologist” to make these eye (Parkay squeeze butter, which isn’t really popping, mouth watering, candy-sticks butter, but rather butter flavored oil, but I of joy. What you do need is a decent digress) onto the foil. Next, squeeze out source of indirect heat. You can convert a generous amount of honey onto the foil. a charcoal grill by pushing half the Then place brown sugar onto the foil. charcoal to one side, but why not invest Next, add pepper jelly on top of that (try in an $80 barrel-type smoker with a some Craig Sherry’s Texas Pepper Jelly, water pan so as to hold a steady 225 it is also on the web). Now place the ribs degrees that will bring you barbecue meat-side down onto this concoction. utopia for years to come. Repeat the process sans the pepper As for the ribs, any type will do, just as jelly on the bone side of the ribs. Drizzle long as you remove that tough membrane a thin ribbon of brandy or rum onto the on the back that acts as a barrier to all the ribs and then take a big swig and say smoky goodness. While you’re at it, you three Hail Smoky’s. Foil the ribs tightly, can concoct any type of rub to your liking– and return to the smoker. just raid your spice cabinet–but seeing that BBQ should be fun and devoid of most In about an hour or so, you can tell thought at times, I suggest a store bought when the ribs are done by picking them rub: Woody’s is available at Sam’s. I also up on each side and seeing how much suggest Trim Tab Pig Powder, Blue’s Hog, “give” they have. Once done, be careful or Killer Hogs Rub which are available via removing from the foil since it will be the inter webs. hotter than a Walmart parking lot in July. No need to add BBQ sauce, trust me! After removing the membrane of disdain, Finally, enjoy! apply the rub to your ribs. Next, place them upon your smoker. And speaking of smoke, for the sweet love of Jesus and Randy Hill is a physician in Hot Springs and a biscuit, don’t let that acrid, dark black a BBQ bad-boy at Southern Krunk BBQ.

i don’t think you’re ready for this

Put your own spin on Randy’s recipe by using a unique pepper-jelly. These sweet-heat babies will be sure to kick your summer up a notch.

For the Local Shopper: Liz & Linda’s Original Pepper Jelly $9.29 at The Savory Pantry

For Foodies: Sweet Onion and Jalapeño Split Pepper Jelly $6.95 at alohafromoregon.com

For the Daring: Buzztail’s Ghost Pepper Jelly $12 at Micks.com

Ou a c hit a H ighCo u nt ry.com

37


SUMMER CLASSICS

play it

Cool

by Judea Robinett

38

O u ac h i t a Hi gh C ount r y


A

s a child, nothing is more wonderful than the start of summertime: school is out, there is no homework to worry about and staying up late like the adults is a special treat. But by mid-summer, boredom sets in. Parents know all too well the despondent looks, the restless meandering around the house, the little sighs and “I’m bored’s” can almost drive parents to madness-the summer blues has reared its ugly head...If this sounds familiar, take heart- we’ve got two great activities to get the whole family outside and smiling once again.

Water Balloon Capture the Flag Gather the family and friends, neighbors, whoever...The more people the better- for this refreshing twist on an old camp classic.

What you will need:

1. Biodegradable water balloons 2. A large bucket or some other receptacle 3. Red and blue bandanas or flags (that each player has one, plus one extra of each color for the “flags”) 4. A post or makeshift flagpole 5. Athletic shoes with good traction 6. Two designated “bases” in the backyard 7. A whistle or air horn 8. Ideally 10 players or more and one “referee”

Getting ready:

1. Fill your water balloons, tie off, and set inside the bucket.

2. Put the bucket full of water balloons in the middle between the two bases.

(or pop it over their heads, because this is war).

3. Split all players into two equal groups by having them number off 1,2,1,2..etc.... Have the 1’s secure their red bandanas to their person by either tying onto their wrists, ankles, head or through belt loops where they are visible. No tucking or hiding the flags. Repeat with the 2’s and the blue bandanas.

* Players must stay in jail in enemy territory until another player from their own team brings them a new water balloon to “break them out.” * Players may not guard their own flags– all players must stay a distance of 10 feet or more away from their team’s flag. * Only 1 player at any one time from each team can guard their own “jail.” * The water balloon bucket is a safe-zone, no one can be tagged within 5 feet of it.

4. One extra blue and one extra red bandana are the “flags,” and will be placed inside each team’s territories in an area of the team’s choosing. 5. Designate an area in each territory that will be used as the “jail” - a tree that captured players must stay touching or another landmark works best.

Rules:

The objective of the game is for one team to safely capture the other team’s flag and bring it to their team’s territory. The winner must be in stable possession of BOTH the red and blue balloon bandana “flags” inside their own territory. Water balloons are used to “tag” another player from the enemy team who is in your territory. You can only “tag” an enemy player while he or she is in your home territory. For instance, if you are on the blue team, you want to throw your water balloon at a member of the red team while they are in blue territory (players are not allowed to attack by throwing balloons across enemy lines). If your balloon breaks on the enemy player, you then get to escort that player to your jail and confiscate their balloon

Once the rules and territories have been established, have both teams gather across from each other in the safe zone. Have each player grab one balloon and give each team their flag. Once everyone has a balloon, announce that everyone has 3 minutes in which they must go hide their team’s flag and strategize. A whistle signals the start of game.

Twists: If an enemy player who is in your home territory breaks your water balloon, you must freeze in place for 10 seconds before going to retrieve another balloon. You cannot be “tagged” in your home territory. Ou a c hit a H ighCo u nt ry.com

39


SUMMER CLASSICS

I

f water balloons and running around aren’t your family’s idea of a good time– or maybe you just ran out of balloons– try a nature scavenger hunt. It’s a great, relaxing way to learn about the natural world around you while practicing some artistic and scientific sample-gathering skills too.

Nature Scavenger Hunt What you will need:

1. Small to medium size sketchbooks or notebooks for each participant 2. Graphite or charcoal sticks or soft sketching pencils 3. Colored pencils or crayons 4. Masking tape 5. Scissors 6. Glue stick 7. Zip-Loc baggies 8. A reusable shopping bag (in which to carry your supplies and objects)

How to Play:

Designate when and where the scavenger hunt will be taking place– what is in-bounds and out-of-bounds (i.e. the neighbor’s house across the street is fine but not the entire block). This adventure can be as flexible as you need it to be. The hunt can take place over a few hours or even a few weeks and can be as competitive or collaborative as you make it. For smaller children, have them work in supervised groups and don’t worry about who comes back with what first. Older kids should use the buddy system and work in pairs or teams and will likely want to race to see who can finish their team’s list first.

40

O u ac h i t a Hi gh C ount r y

Pro-tip: If you are doing the scavenger hunt in your neighborhood, let your neighbors know when to expect kids around their yard or knocking on their doors. Send each neighbor a note explaining what the scavenger hunt is and what items they may be asked for. You can even give them “I’m Participating” and “Sorry, I’m unable to participate” notes for them to post on their doors.


Nature Scavenger Hunt List A rubbing of a leaf with pointed edges A drawing of a bird you see A small twig A rubbing of tree bark A wildflower (press between pages of notebook) A small rock Sand (sprinkle over glue in notebook) A nut and a seed A blade of grass Something fuzzy Something smooth Something red Something yellow A drawing of an animal paw print or track A drawing of a slimy bug you find A pine cone A drawing of a butterfly you see A drawing of a spiderweb A vivid description of something that crawls A leaf with round leaves Roots Something shiny Something you can grow AND eat A muddy dog’s paw print A drawing of a cloud that looks like something Something that smells good Moss

Ou a c hit a H ighCo u nt ry.com

41


SUMMER CLASSICS

chill

Out

42

O u ac h i t a Hi gh C ount r y

by Judea Robinett


W

hat better way to beat the heat than with a tasty, ice-cold treat? Even better– if it’s made with real fruit and wholesome ingredients. The kids won’t know or care that they are actually eating a healthy snack and you will feel guilt free when you indulge in one or two, yourself. These fruit pops are easy to make, the ingredients are all readily available at any supermarket or local grocer in the summer months. Cool off with these yummy pops. From savory to indulgent, there’s an option for every palate.

Lunch

Watermelon Mint Pops Makes 4 Popsicles

Mon-Fri 11am - 2pm

Dinner

Ingredients:

1/2 Hope, Arkansas watermelonblended 1 lime- squeezed 10 sweet mint leaves- finely chopped

Instructions:

Mix all ingredients together. Taste to make sure the mix is sweet enough. If not, add some honey until sweetened to taste. Refrigerate for 1 hour, stir & pour into popsicle molds and freeze for 4 hours.

Pistachio Sweet Cream & Spice Pops Makes 4 Popsicles

Ingredients:

1 cup of heavy whipping cream 1 cup of plain Greek yogurt 1/4 of pistachios (shelled and chopped) 2 Tbs of raw honey 1 Tbs of vanilla extract 1 tsp of ground cardamom 1 tsp of ground lavender

Instructions:

Mix all ingredients together. Taste to make sure the mix is sweet enough. If not, add some honey until sweetened to taste. Refrigerate for 1 hour, stir & pour into popsicle molds and freeze for 6 hours.

Mon-Thurs 5pm-9pm Fri-Sat 5pm - 10pm

Cherry Nutella Yogurt Pops

Brunch

Makes 4 Popsicles

Sundays 10am - 2pm

Ingredients: 1 cup of Vanilla Greek yogurt 1/4 cup of skim milk 1/2 cup of fresh cherries- pitted and chopped 1/2 cup of Nutella hazelnut spread 1 waffle cone- crumbled

Instructions:

In a small bowl, fold together the cherries, milk and yogurt- set aside. In another bowl, warm Nutella for about 30 seconds in the microwave. Take about a tablespoon of the crumbled waffle cone and pour into bottom of each popsicle mold. Add one big spoonful of melted Nutella then one spoonful of the yogurt/cherry mix. Tap molds gently on the counter to get out any air bubbles then repeat the layering process with the yogurt and Nutella. Finish by adding another crumbled waffle cone.

layer

of

1803 Airport Road Hot Springs, Arkansas (501) 767-0200 Find Us Now on Facebook!

jahnasrestaurant.com

Ou a c hit a H ighCo u nt ry.com

43


GLANCE BACK

All Things Fade

Milling Around an Old Ghost Town by Jake Ledbetter photography by Amanda Shelley Ledbetter

34.124805 -93.443861

A

rkansas has a rich history. People have been calling it home for centuries. It was a fertile hunting ground for many tribes of Native Americans, most predominantly the Quapaw. You can still find this influence in the names of numerous cities, lakes and other natural features. Its curious to note that even the name Arkansas is a corrupted spelling of Arkansea, the Illinois word for the Quapaw. This pristine wilderness was later a haven for trappers and hunters as the land was settled and was eventually incorporated into the United States as the Arkansas Territory in 1819. Arkansas had begun to flourish by the time it became a state in 1836 with a plantation economy that was heavily reliant upon slave labor. After the Civil War, Arkansas had become a poor rural state heavily reliant upon cotton. But timber was also a big industry then. In 1902, the

44

O u ac h i t a Hi gh C ount r y

Arkadelphia Lumber Company received new leadership. William Grayson and Nelson McLeod had become its principal stockholders and moved the company to a site near the Antoine River in 1907 to have access to more virgin timber, which was a common practice of lumber companies. Like a plague of locusts, they would find a lumber rich area and set up shop until they had reaped all the benefits of the surrounding forest and would move on. They named the new camp Graysonia, in honor of the company’s new president, and they started off with a population of 350 as the new lumber town was founded. The mill at Graysonia became one of the largest in the south due to the demand placed on our country during World War I. Estimates of the maximum population at Graysonia range between 700 to 1,000 people. It took a different path than most

logging towns: They incorporated and elected their own government officials. At it’s peak, the town even had amenities such as a confectionery, a movie theater, a schoolhouse, three hotels, and a church. It had a water system and electricity. Things were going great for the company and people of Graysonia. However, the cut-and-move mentality caught up to Graysonia and eventually signaled its end. As the amount of harvestable timber started to dwindle, 1929 arrived and the Great Depression seized America in its cruel grips. The mill kept churning out lumber, but by 1931 the output wasn’t enough to support the mill or the town. With its population dwindling, some residents sought work in the nearby Cinnabar mines. Others just moved on to the next place they could find work. The Ozan-Grayson directors told


West End of the Timber Mill at Graysonia circa 1915 Courtesy of the Clark County Historical Society

their stockholders that the land was not even worth the tax burden and they sold 10,000 acres to the McMillan family from Arkadelphia. Much of the equipment was moved to Delight, in Pike county in 1937 to build a new mill there. The town’s final resident was said to have been Brown Hickman, and he left Graysonia in 1951. Fast-forward to summer in Arkansas 2016: What better time to take a break from the day to day and venture into the great outdoors? There are so many sights to see and places to visit, that when my lovely wife broached the idea of taking a road trip to hunt for an old mill ghost town, I thought “of course.” And luckily, there happened to be one about an hour from us. Since it was to be our first nature outing of the season, that meant dusting off our gear and stocking up on water. We enlisted some friends, and their dogs, and set out on our own ghost adventure. The first challenge of finding a ghost town is that it’s not populated, not with the living anyway. The crux of the situation is location. How do you find it when Mother Nature has had six decades to reclaim her turf? I researched online articles and listened to directions from people who had been there. I even turned to the all-powerful Google for help in locating Graysonia, Arkansas. Google gave me a map with a wonderful red pin telling me where it thought Graysonia is, or should I say, was. We headed out and soon arrived at the area where friends and internet search engines said we should be. To enjoy this kind of an expedition, you have to like nature, in the utmost sense. We saw wonderful things on our trek through the woods: birds, snakes, plants and herbs in bloom, and even a barely visible, rust colored frog that was nestled in the carpet of last year’s leaves that still blanketed

our path. After walking up hills, over train trestles, down game trails and more than one dirt road, we realized we had made our way back to the same area. And we did this not once, but twice, without seeing anything resembling civilization other than a few deer stands from local hunters and two or three chunks of concrete that signaled we were not totally off the mark. We regrouped and took a breather. Our packs were lighter from the steady hydration our water stores had provided us throughout the day, and heavier due to the fatigue our bodies were showing from carrying them up and down hills, through creeks, along winding game trails and over decommissioned train tracks. After three hours and six miles of hiking, we were starting to give up on ever finding anything that would prove Graysonia had even existed. Following some careful study of our maps and taking into account the lay of the land and the course of the river, we ventured toward the source of our few remaining hours of daylight -- go west young man! The Antoine River had a nice bend that was our mutually-agreed-upon final area of exploration. We came upon a pond that was about 500 feet across and decided to follow its bank just to see what, if anything, was in the woods on the other side. This was easier said than done, as the terrain started to give way to an area that can best be described as swampy. Thankfully, there was an area of clear cutting which made traveling somewhat easier. There, on the other side of the muck and the mire, nestled just inside the tree line, was the unmistakable image of straight lines and right angles. Eureka! We had done it! Our lethargy melted away and we dashed for the ruins. There, on the banks of the pond, tucked

away inside the tree line, was a massive concrete structure. Easily 20 feet tall and 120 feet in length, the remains of what we can only guess was the lumber kiln imposed over us. Its wide, shady bays were cool and echoing. Some were intact and some had lost parts of the ceiling to time and nature. Trees had not only surrounded it, but they started growing up from the interior of the building, meandering around the lip of the roof to spread out and reach toward the sunlight they so steadfastly sought. We wandered the perimeter of the building and explored a few of the bays, and found a cluster of one-foot-high concrete footers that led off into the forest and provided a good indication of where our travels should proceed. This breadcrumb trail of concrete footers led us to another set of concrete buildings that covered twice as much area as the kiln. These buildings hadn’t survived the trials of time and nature nearly as well as the ones we previously encountered. There was evidence of a fire in one of the buildings, which was easily 40 feet tall. Looking through the remnants of an open doorway was like a glimpse into a magic wardrobe where, just beyond the door, sat the forest. Trees, moss, grass and shrubs dotted the ground where there was once a bustling base of human activity. Suddenly, we picked up the unmistakable scent of cat urine. At first it didn’t strike me, as I was exposed to house cats all my life. But, my better half reminded me that we were in the woods and the remains of small animals had been spotted around the corner. We all agreed that encountering a large, wild cat in its natural abode was not a great idea. It’s right up there with camping in the middle of nowhere in a ghost town. The sun was even lower now, and none of us felt like trekking back in the dark. We trudged back to our vehicle, weary and winded, but we smiled the whole ride home. Ou a c hit a H ighCo u nt ry.com

45


IN YOUR WORDS

From Mansfield to Oklahoma City by Jerry Hoyt, Caddo, Ok.

The leaves begin to fall, cheers roar through stadiums and a slight nip is in the evening air. Submit your most memorable Fall poem or creative writing piece, we would love to feature it in our next issue.

Send your writing submissions to: Render Creative Group attn: Ouachita High Country 801 Central Avenue, Suite 30 Hot Springs, AR 71901 or email info@rendercreativegroup.com

46

O u ac h i t a Hi gh C ount r y

I rode the train from Mansfield to Oklahoma City and back several times during the War to see granny and grandpaw and all my cousins.....World War 2 that is. Dad would drive mother and me the short road from Waldron to Mansfield (Ark) to catch the train. Everyone that went anywhere of distance during the war rode a train by necessity, bus by default, car almost never. Trains were usually late but not so late as they are now. Back then they were always fully loaded with passengers. Packed is a better word. Soldiers mostly. In uniform going somewhere or coming back from somewhere. Many a times I’ve stood in an aisle, mile after mile, station after station, ‘cause there were no empty seats. But I was a kid and it wasn’t so bad. And besides, no kid would ever sit and make an American soldier stand. No siree Bob. Never. It was our little contribution for beating the Axis. Soldiers had a great time. Singing and shouting and sleeping and laughing and talking and eating. Each thing, sleeping and eating even, was done as loudly as possible. All had to be loud ‘cause trains were thunderous. Those wonderful soldiers must have told many a story on those trains. Stories of adventure and excitement and love and anticipation and longing. Stories that helped hide underlying fear, fear not just of death but of the unknown they faced. Oh, to go back, and this time listen to them. Really, really listen to them. Look in their eyes and hear not just their words but how they say them, how their voices might rise or fall or quaver. Those men were the greatest but are going away from us faster and faster. It’s difficult not to get emotional thinking about those men and those times. Back to trains.... We never ate in a dining car. I don’t think there was ever one on that route so mother packed our meals. Most everyone brought fried chicken, cooked at home before leaving. If you didn’t bring food, the frequent stops were veritable food markets. Locals would board the train during each short stop, walk up and down the aisle, selling all sorts of food and then quickly hop off before the train started up again. Fruits weren’t common unless garden grown. White bread sandwiches with mayo and lunch meat, wrapped carefully in wax paper were the usual. Late in the war, locals grew sophisticated and sold small grey cardboard box lunches that held two sandwiches, one piece of cold chicken and a triangle of cake or pie. For drink, most people drew cold water into white funnel paper cups from the water cooler at one end of each car. The water was always wonderfully cold. A very few had thermoses of this or that and some brought cokes. Cokes as likely to be RC or Grapettes or Big Orange as Coca Cola. Going from car to car looking at the different people was fun. Best of all though, was the danger between cars. It was scary there what with the noise expanded 10 times over. Doors were very heavy and hard to open and would slam-bang shut behind you as if purposefully trying to crush you. Big steel plates between cars overlapped on the floor with each one moving in a different direction from its partner laying on or under it. I could have, but never dared slip under the chain guard, strung at waist height guarding the steps down. I always wanted to step down to the outside door and peer out the door window. Always wanted to. Never did. I just knew the door would jump open and I’d fall out and be cut in the inevitable two parts to lay struggling fruitlessly, pathetically, trying to pull my lower body up to the rest of me. It was so exciting standing between cars with one car bouncing and shoving and groaning to its secret rhythm while the other was pounding out its own shattering tune to a different beat. It was war between two enormous steel beasts trying to rip their binds and careen off in different directions. Thrilling in being so close to forces so coarse and loud and seemingly dangerous but knowing there was no danger. Vicarious danger don’t you suppose?... I loved trains back then and tried to recreate that joy last year. But the rails no longer have joints so the clickety-clack is gone. The roadbeds are smoothed and curves gentled so swaying of cars is nearly imperceptible. Engines are diesel-electric with no heart. Windows are sealed shut so there’s no hanging out looking above-ahead at the black, boiling, rolling cloud of smoke which isn’t there anyway. There were only one or two forlorn passengers in each car making for a silent sadness. A strange, hopeless feeling. No one laughs. No one shouts. No one sings. They just look silently out the window. Never at one another. Trains were always late during the war, but not much so, and gave the vigorous impression they were gonna make up the time and then some, and would bore quickly through the country and deliver what needed to be delivered and take whomever to wherever they needed to go no matter what. They were unstoppable. Now trains are despairingly late. You board a train after hours of boredom in a vacant decaying station, to be told the train will be even further behind time at the next stop. It’s as if the trains themselves aren’t sure where they’re going or even why they’re going. You feel as if the train is lost, wandering around the country trying hopelessly to find its old mission. Someone famous, famously once said “You can’t ever go back”. He must have just gotten off a train.


Ou a c hit a H ighCo u nt ry.com

47


801 Central Avenue, Suite 30 Hot Springs, AR 71901

PRESORT STANDARD U.S. POSTAGE

PAID S1G

A resort you cAn cAll home With 26,000 acres as a playground, outdoor enthusiasts love Hot Springs Village! Rolling hills, forested landscape, numerous lakes, miles of hiking trails and a host of outdoor recreation and community events make every day at Hot Springs Village an opportunity for adventure, and every night the chance to relax in the spot you love most. Brand new Homes in a residential resort from tHe $200’s

ExploreTheVillage.com

48

O u ac h i t a Hi gh C ount r y


Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.