New Orleans Magazine February 2020

FEBRUARY 2020

FEBRUARY 2020 / VOLUME 54 / NUMBER 4 editor-in-chief Errol Laborde managing editor Ashley McLellan art Director Tiffani Reding Amedeo contributing writers Fritz Esker, Kathy Finn, Dawn Ruth Wilson, Carolyn Kolb, Chris Rose, Eve Crawford Peyton, Mike Griffith, Liz Scott Monaghan, Lee Cutrone, Dale Curry, Jay Forman, Tim McNally, Robert Peyton Digital media editor Kelly Massicot staff writers Topher Balfer, Kelly Massicot Melanie Warner Spencer Vice President of sales Colleen Monaghan advertising sales manager Kate Henry Kate@MyNewOrleans.com senior account executives Danielle Kiletico, Meggie Schmidt account executive Rachel Webber Digital operations manager Sarah Duckert Director of marketing and events Jeanel Luquette event coordinator Abbie Dugruise For event information call (504) 830-7264 Production manager Emily Andras Production Designers Rosa Balaguer, Meghan Rooney special Projects art Director Molly Tullier Patty Traffic coordinator Lane Brocato and Jeremiah Michel chief executive officer Todd Matherne President Alan Campell executive Vice President Errol Laborde Distribution manager John Holzer administrative assistant Mallary Matherne audience Development Claire Sargent WYES DIAL 12 STAFF (504) 486-5511 executive editor Aislinn Hinyup associate editor Robin Cooper art Director Tiffani R. Amedeo NEW ORLEANS MAGAZINE Printed in USA A Publication of Renaissance Publishing 110 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005 MyNewOrleans.com

For subscription information call (504) 828-1380

New Orleans Magazine (ISSN 0897 8174) is published monthly by Renaissance Publishing, LLC., 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005; (504) 828-1380. Subscription rates: one year $19.95; Mexico, South America and Canada $48; Europe, Asia and Australia $75. An associate subscription to New Orleans Magazine is available by a contribution of $40 or more to WYES-TV/Channel 12, $10.00 of which is used to offset the cost of publication. Also available electronically, on CD-ROM and on-line. Periodicals postage paid at Metairie, LA, and additional entry offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to New Orleans Magazine, 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005. Copyright 2020 New Orleans Magazine. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the consent of the publisher. The trademark New Orleans and New Orleans Magazine are registered. New Orleans Magazine is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts, photos and artwork even if accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. The opinions expressed in New Orleans Magazine are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the view of the magazine managers or owners.

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Contents Local Color Marquee On the Cover: Picnic Provisions & Whiskey’s Crawfish Boil Hot Fried Chicken Basket with Cornbread Cake Biscuit, Zapp’s Potato Chips, Urban South’s Paradise Park beer and Haydel’s Bakery King Cake Photograph by Erika Haven

Top picks for February 22

Persona Zulu King 2020 Brian sims 24

Biz Port whine 26

Chris Rose In Pursuit of a chicken 26

Modine Gunch along the Parade 28

Joie d’Eve Krewsin’ through the month 30

In Tune Krewe to Do 32

Chronicles Half Fast makes sixty 26

Home Under Three roofs 34 72

The cRown, p. 52

Features

In Every Issue

Munch and Mambo

Inside

To-go options for food and fun 38

Fame of Thrones 12

Defining a Super Krewe

Speaking Out

Back to the origins 52

editorial, plus a mike luckovich cartoon 16

The Crown a Queen, a General and stories to tell 56

Heart Health How to avoid “the Big one” 56

Julia Street Questions and answers about our city 18

Streetcar stirred in new orleans 112

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DIAL 12, D1 Tune in to WYES all month long for a close look at the history, tradition and revelry of Carnival. Peggy Scott Laborde along with Arthur Hardy and Errol Laborde give you the scoop on what not to miss this season in STEPPIN’ OUT “It’s Carnival Time” on Monday, February 3 at 8:0 0 p.m.

After celebrating on Mardi Gras Day, sit back and watch as Carnival comes to end during live broadcast of THE 2020 REX BALL AND THE MEETING OF THE COURTS OF REX AND COMUS at 7:30 p.m. For all WYES Carnival programming, go to wyes.org.

The Menu Table Talk Jack rose Blooms 72

Restaurant Insider news from the Kitchen 74

Food Potato salad and Parades 76

Last Call mardi Gras euphoria 78

Dining Guide listings by neighborhood 80

INSIdE

Fame of Thrones an anniversary REx’S REIGN thIS yEAR WILL MARk

the 30th anniversary of John Ochsner, Sr. serving as King of Carnival. By all accounts, Ochsner (1927-2018) served his constituents well and events went smoothly.

The day could not, however, have deviated more from tradition than his first brush with royalty, 42 years earlier.

Feb. 10, 1948 was already going to be a big day for John Ochsner. First it was his 21st birthday and, as the calendar would have it, the day also happened to be Mardi Gras. The combination of the two was enough to keep a guy festive, but then from the front of his parent’s house there was also some commotion. Something unusual was happening. His dad, Alton Ochsner, was being hauled away in a limousine. He had, the family was surprised to learn, been chosen to be Rex, King of Carnival.

Adding to the surprise, John Ochsner would recall, was that at the time his dad did not even belong to the Rex organization.

Usually, whenever someone is chosen for Carnival’s highest honor, the family knows it at least a few days ahead of time, and most often the person who is selected is an honored member of the Rex organization. In his father’s case there was neither.

Through the years, whenever I would see Ochsner, most often at a luncheon or social event, I would ask him about the story just to be sure I had not misheard, but he always insisted that his dad had

been a surprise Rex. I have also checked with members of the Rex organization, but there is no written record of how Alton was selected nor is anyone who would know still around. One former Rex did say that he heard that one year the chosen Rex had to drop out and the organization scrambled for a replacement. Ochsner, who had recently opened a clinic, had built a national reputation by linking cigarette smoking and lung cancer.

In a sense, 20 years before Bacchus, Alton Ochsner may have been Carnival’s first celebrity king.

John Ochsner remembered that he and a friend watched the ’48 Rex parade while dressed in a spoof of drag costumes. As a member of the royal family, however, he did have the proper attire for the ball that night.

This issue looks at Carnival from many directions, including defining super krewes; the longest reigning Queen and the all-important question of what to eat along the parade routes. There is also this story to share: John Ochsner’s medical career was distinguished in many ways, but he was best known for his heart transplants, of which he performed many. I once sat across from him at a luncheon and gushed about how great it must feel to have the ability to transplant a heart. Ochsner merely shrugged his shoulders and replied, “it’s just cut and stitch.”

There are many people who are still alive today because he was the one to make the stitch.

BROOkE dUNCAN II Brooks Duncan, a former Rex Captain, played a critical role in one of Carnival’s most historic moments. In 1979, Duncan spoke for the Carnival captains in defying a threat by the police union to strike during the parade season. With that, the strike soon fell apart. Duncan died Jan. 14, at age 95. He was the oldest surviving Rex. 1 2 FEBRUARY 2020 myneworleans.com

MEEt thE SALES StAff

kate henry Advertising Sales Manager (504) 830-7216 Kate@myneworleans.com

Meggie Schmidt Senior Account Executive (504) 830-7220 meggie@myneworleans.com

danielle kiletico Senior Account Executive (504) 830-7250 Danielle@myneworleans.com

Rachel Webber Senior Account Executive (504) 830-7249 rachel@myneworleans.com

Colleen Monaghan Vice President of Sales (504) 830-7215 colleen@myneworleans.com 1 4 FEBRUARY 2020 myneworleans.com

SpEAkING OUt

Carnival’s Curative Powers CARNIVAL SEASON 2020 WAS ONLy

in its first hours and already its curative powers were being proven. The season begins on Twelfth Night, January 6, but many New Orleanians were in a funk as the day began. On the day before, the Saints were bounced out of the playoffs by the Minnesota Vikings, about whom memories still lingered of a near impossible catch that ended a playoff run two seasons earlier.

This was a double funk which might not have been endurable were it not for the public psyche suddenly shifting from black and gold to purple, green and gold.

There are many places in the world that stage some sort of Mardi Gras celebration; quite

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often it is a parade, or two, staged as a civic gesture to bring visitors to town. There might be street parties and extra beer flowing from nearby barrooms, but those activities, while providing some escape, are mere façades. There is nothing substantial behind them. New Orleans is one of the few cities in the world where Carnival is entwined with the culture. Anyone who grew up in this experienced Carnival as part of their life. Their jewelry boxes and dresser drawers may have the sparkle of ducals or pins from some distant night when they, if only for the evening, were part of royalty. Their memories might be from marching in bands, riding on floats, losing

their identity behind a mask of not only a rebirth but that and maybe even falling in love, the locals were still capable of dancing in the streets. if only for a fleeting moment.

There have been other years In 1872, Carnival was when Carnival rescued our spirits enhanced by creating a King from events far more severe than of Carnival, named Rex, to show even the Saints’ loss. No Carnival the nation that symbolic royalty season in history was as critical as now ruled where Reconstruction that of 2006, in which we had recently reigned. had to prove to ourselves We would be a and to the world that the poorer, far less confiAn original dent city were it not city was still alive and ©Mike Luckovich Cartoon for New would recover from the for Carnival culture wrath of Katrina which Orleans Magazine to reminds us that the had torn through levees dead of life’s winters only a few months earlier. The can be followed by spring’s rejuworld watched videos of what venation. We concede however seemed to be the last days of from our experience of 2010 that New Orleans. Although many the breeze is even sweeter when floats were left stained with water the Saints go all the way. lines, Carnival provided news

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jULIA STREET wITH PoyDras THe ParroT

Mendes, Gift of Waldemar S. Nelson, Courtesy of The Historic New Orleans Collection

Dear Julia, Is it true that the first plane to fly across the Atlantic visited New Orleans? I have heard this was the case but the person who told me about it did not seem to know the details. Can you or Poydras tell me if this was true if there was a New Orleans connection?

Thank you. Oretha Jones (New Orleans) The four Navy-Curtiss flying boats built for Seaplane Division One were to have been utilized as submarine hunters to combat German U-boats but were delivered too late to see wartime service. In May 1919, the aircraft attempted a transatlantic flight from Rockaway, Long Island, to Lisbon, Portugal. Only one of the four, the NC-4, successfully completed the journey despite a mechanical problem, which earned it the nickname “the Lame Duck.”

When the NC-4 visited New Orleans in December 1919 as part of a tour to encourage naval aviation recruitment, onlookers arrived in droves to see the plane moored in the Mississippi River at the foot of Jackson Avenue.

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The National Museum of Naval Aviation in Pensacola, Florida owns the NC-4, which is the sole surviving member of Seaplane Division One and only example of its type.

Hello, I just read the letter addressed to you concerning the Colorado Mining Co. It was located in the 500 block of St. Philip St. It was quite the dive. The owner was Charlie Gambino, he was a friend of mine. I lived just down the block on what was I believe was 615 St. Philip. The bartenders were Steve and Earl. I hope this helps your readers. Ron Ustach (New Britain, Connnecticut) Thank you for the additional information, Ron. For the benefit of readers who may have missed last month’s issue, the Colorado Mining Company was a short-lived 1970s French Quarter watering hole which briefly located at 616 St. Philip before moving to 515 St. Philip. Charles N. Gambino, a well-known local lounge owner, died in 1982 at the age of 47.

Dear Julia, Where exactly was the old lover’s lane known as Turtle Back Road that was near City Park?

Red Fritzhurten (Metairie) Turtle Back Road was a heavily-rutted dirt road which ran along the Carondelet Canal between Orleans Avenue and Lake Pontchartrain. Marconi Boulevard, completed in 1938, replaced it.

I don’t think it ever appeared on an official map, but Turtle Back Road was especially notorious in the 1920s. In attempting to describe it, I am reminded of the hit 1966 song “Dirty Water” by the Standells, in which the protagonist tells the audience he may be found by the Boston riverfront “…along with lovers, muggers and thieves.” Turtle Back Road was popular with all of those groups.

One of the city’s most notorious murders, that of Bertha Neason, occurred there in April 1920; a year later, Felix Birbiglia and Charles Zelenka were hanged for the crime.

Dear Julia, The Washington Hotel at Milneburg was once a world-famous attraction that was well-known for its seafood dinners. Do you know when or why it was torn down? Constance Smoty (New Orleans)

hAvE A quEsTIon For juLIA? Send your question to: Julia Street, New Orleans Magazine, 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005 or email: Julia@myneworleans.com.

The Louisville & Nashville Railroad, the hotel’s last owner, took no interest in it and felt it should fall to progress. In September 1920, the railroad hired the Samuels company to raze the solidly-constructed hotel and sell the building materials.

Completed in 1832 to serve the Pontchartrain Road and travelers arriving or departing by way of the lake, the resort covered half a city block and was once surrounded with formal gardens. The Washington Hotel catered to the well-heeled visitor. A breakfast there, which cost $2 in 1838, would today cost the equivalent of roughly $50.

A children’s playground briefly occupied the cleared land. Soon, seawall construction and land reclamation destroyed the remainder of Milneburg.

Local Color MARQUEE . PERSONA . biz . chRis RosE . MoDiNE GUNch . JoiE D’EVE . iN TUNE . chRoNiclEs . hoME

greg miles photo

2020 Zulu king brian sims

Marquee

Events our top picks for this month

by Fritz Esker

Vaude d’Gras – Baroquen CirCus: a Mardi Gras speCtaCular

Jay and silent BoB with KeVin sMith

Celine dion: CouraGe world tour

Zulu lundi Gras FestiVal

for the 6th year, Vaude d’gras celebrates Carnival with a baccanalian display by a troupe of acrobatic, theatrical and dazzling artists set to a live score based on mozart and beethovan classics. a true feast for the eyes, the baroquen Circus features international performance artist ladybeast among others for a unique and decadent mardi gras celebration. Costumes are encouraged. performances, february 21, 23, 24 at the marigny opera house. Information, LadyBeastProductions.com.

writer-director Kevin smith of the movie “clerks” fame brings his new, shot-in-NolA film “Jay and silent bob Reboot” to the Joy Theater on February 26. smith and his co-star Jason Mewes will participate in a Q&A with the audience after the screening. Information, TheJoyTheater.com.

Pop superstar celine Dion has embarked on her first U.s. tour in over 10 years. she will be stopping at the smoothie King center on February 7 for what’s sure to be a memorable night of music. Information, SmoothieKingCenter.com.

The zulu social Aid and Pleasure club continues its annual tradition of hosting a free, fun-filled day on woldenberg Park on the Mississippi River to celebrate lundi Gras.

There will be food, music, arts, crafts, and more on February 24.

Information, LundiGrasFestival.com.

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calendar

Jan. 31-Feb. 1

louis C.k., orpheum Theater. information, OrpheumNOLA.com.

information, SmoothieKingCenter.com.

Feb. 8-Mar. 1

Jan. 31-Feb. 1

the trey anastasio band, civic Theater. information, CivicNOLA.com.

fat tuesday salon: a group photography exhibit, staple Goods Gallery, StapleGoods.org.

Feb. 9

Jan. 17-Feb. 2

something rotten, le Petit Theater. information, LePetitTheatre.com.

humana rock ’n’ roll new orleans marathon, Poydras st. information, RunRockNRoll.com.

Jan. 17-Feb. 9

Feb. 11-16

Viagara falls, westwego Performing Arts Theater. information, jpas.org.

Charlie and the Chocolate factory, saenger Theater. information, SaengerNOLA.com.

Jan. 22-Feb. 2

Feb. 13-16

mother Courage and her Children, southern Rep. information, SouthernRep.com.

and the ball and all, Rivertown Theaters for the Performing Arts. information, RivertownTheaters.com.

Jan. 31-Feb. 9: the mousetrap, Jefferson Performing Arts center. information, jpas.org.

family gras, clearview Mall. information, VisitJeffersonParish.com.

Feb. 14-16

Feb. 1

Feb. 14

Daniel tiger’s neighborhood live, saenger Theater. information, SaengerNOLA.com.

Dermot kennedy: Without fear tour, The Fillmore. information, FillmoreNOLA.com.

Feb. 3

Feb. 15

tim and eric: 2020 mandatory attendance World tour, The Joy Theater. information, TheJoyTheater.com.

alan Jackson, smoothie King center. information, SmoothieKingCenter.com.

Feb. 4

amour et mardi gras with keith sweat and friends, smoothie King center. information, SmoothieKingCenter.com.

Feb. 16

highly suspect, The civic Theatre. information, CivicNOLA.com.

Feb. 7

ladies night out, saenger Theater. information, SaengerNOLA.com.

Feb. 20-21

311, The Fillmore, information, FillmoreNOLA.com.

Feb. 7

hayley kiyoko: i’m too sensitive for this X, The Fillmore. information, FillmoreNOLA.com.

Feb. 22

silversun pickups, The Fillmore. information, FillmoreNOLA.com.

Feb. 8

Feb. 27

robert earl keen, house of blues. information, HouseOfBlues.com.

louisiana philharmonic orchestra: nature’s awakening with beethoven’s “pastoral” symphony, orpheum Theater. information, OrpheumNOLA.com.

Feb. 8

krewe du Vieux, French Quarter. information, KreweDuVieux.org.

Feb. 29 Feb. 8-9

tyler perry’s madea farewell play tour, smoothie King center.

bon iver & tu Dance: Come through, saenger Theater. information, SaengerNOLA.com.

MyNEwoRlEANs.coM february 2020 2 3

persona

it’s just a dream...a dream come true.

church, Franklin Avenue Baptist Church.

New Orleans Magazine sat down with the Zulu King for more behindthe-crown information.

Q: How did you get involved with the Zulu organization? I grew up in the organization. My mom ran the Zulu lounge when I was growing up. I started selling coconuts when I was 14 or 15. I had a lot of mentors growing up in the Zulu organization. This year, in 2020, it will be my 25th year in the organization.

Q: Outside of acting as Zulu King, what role or position has been the most fun and rewarding? One of the most rewarding has been serving on the Board of Directors. It has been an honor and a privilege to be a part of this new building, to see my name of the board out front. Also serving as Big Shot, I was elected at 25 and served at 26.

Zulu King 2020 brian sims

by Ashley McLellan

new orleans natiVe Brian M. siMs, a 24-year

member of the Zulu Social Aid and Pleasure Club, will serve as 2020 King Zulu. Throughout his membership, Sims has participated on multiple levels and with many roles within the organization, including float rider and his service on several committees, as a former Coronation Chairman

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Q: Why did you decide to run for King? I and as a member of the Board of Directors.

Sims is a busy medical sales manager for one of the largest biotech company’s in the U.S., but making time to contribute to his community is important to him. He volunteers with Supporting our Youth, is a member of Black Organization for Leadership Development and is active at his

always had my eyes set on it. I’ve been Chairman of the Zulu picnic for 20 years, and I had a hat that said, “2020.”

It got into my head that 2020 would be a good year. So I started three or four years ago getting the seed work done. I wanted it to be an even year.

I set a vision.

greg miles photo

Q: Who is your Queen? My Queen is profession: medical sales territory manager.

Born/raised: new orleans. resides: new orleans east. education: Warren easton fundamental magnet high school; b.s. in business management from university of phoenix.

Favorite band or musician: i like a lot of the local new orleans rappers, like lil Wayne. i really like jazz; down on frenchman street. norman brown and boney Jones.

Favorite food: parkway bakery and tavern’s shrimp poor boy.

Favorite restaurant: blue oak bbQ, liuzza’s by the track, beachcorner’s burger.

Favorite king cake: manny radazzo’s, plain or filled.

a good friend, Dr. Chanda Macias.

She is a colleague of mine, and I’ve known her for the past three or four years. Two former kings who also were not married, like me, helped guide me through the process. They helped me find the right person through interviews; someone who shares the values of the culture and spirit like I do. She is someone who will honor it as much I as do.

Q: Do you have a slogan or theme for this year’s parade? I don’t really have a slogan. It’s just a dream. I guess that can be my slogan, it’s a dream come true.

Q: Do you have any other family members that are or have been a part of Zulu? My mom was a part of the organization, and also I have an uncle and first cousin who I brought in around 1997. I became a member in 1997, and was an associate in 1993.

Q: What part does the Zulu organization play in the community? We are a year-round organization. It’s not just about carnival or Mardi Gras. For our toy and bike giveaway, we will have around 1,200 to 1,400 kids that we provide for. We have food baskets that we put together for those in need. We are active all year in the community.

Q: What are your favorite Carnival traditions outside Zulu? I love Endymion.

I also go to the parades with family in LaPlace and Gramercy down in the parish. That’s when I can relax.

No one knows who I am. I can just relax and enjoy the parade. true Confession: i guess if i wasn’t doing what i am doing, i might be a sous chef for gordon ramsey. i like to cook.

Q: What is your favorite go-to Carnival food? I love my family barbecue, and my mom’s gumbo and red beans.

MyNEwoRlEANs.coM february 2020 2 5

BiZ

Port Whine Tourism vs. tourism on the riverfront

by Kathy Finn

t h e d e B at e t h at e r u p t e d

recently over the docking of a new steamboat on the Mississippi River at the French Quarter held a familiar irony for longtime observers of riverfront issues. Local preservationists were speaking out against New Orleans Steamboat Company’s plan to dock a second passenger riverboat next to its flagship vessel, the Steamboat Natchez, which has operated there for many years.

Preservation-minded New Orleanians have a long history of opposing private encroachment into public spaces, and often their efforts seem to place them at odds with the interests of the tourism industry. But, in fact, their work can sometimes be seen as being as much about defending visitors’ rights as opposing tourists’ intrusion, and the new steamboat dock is a case in point.

People who have lived in New Orleans for several decades may hear echoes from the past in this debate. It was in the late 1950s that 2 6 february 2020 MyNEwoRlEANs.coM

New York urban planner Robert Moses proposed that an elevated expressway be built along New Orleans’ riverfront, creating a downtown traffic loop from the Pontchartrain Expressway, west of the CBD, to Interstate 10 on the east.

The proposal had the backing of the city administration, the Louisiana Transportation Department and countless people in between. But two preservation-minded individuals, lawyers William E. Borah and Richard Baumbach, mounted an extraordinary grassroots campaign to fight the project. Their success in shutting down the proposal is hailed not only for preserving views of the Mississippi River, but also enabling the eventual opening to pubic use large stretches of the riverfront that were previously dedicated to private commerce.

Today, public access to the riverfront is largely taken for granted as people by the thousands stroll the French Quarter promenade known as Woldenberg Park. So popular has this pedestrian haven become that

the city in recent years extended the walkway downriver via construction of the extensively landscaped and bike-pathed Crescent Park.

Both visitors and locals have embraced the deepened relationship with the river that the opening of these spaces has enabled. Views of the cargo ships, barges and tugboats that ply the river have become a major attraction, and countless weddings and family photos have been set against this backdrop.

All of which has contributed to the city reaching record highs in tourists and seeing visitor spending top $9 billion in 2018.

Yet, even as the city appears to have learned the value of preserving public access to the riverfront, private pressure to take back some of that access continues. So it was that preservationists in December took issue with the plan to permanently dock another passenger vessel at a prime spot. In an op-ed published by The Lens.com on Dec. 10, Louisiana Landmarks Society past president Sandra Stokes

wrote that adding another large boat there threatens to “destroy a wide vista” that visitors now enjoy from much of Woldenberg Park.

“Citizens should rightly view these actions as a blatant grab of public parkland for a private, commercial enterprise,” Stokes wrote. “Such actions go directly against our city’s Master Plan which, in fact, specifically calls for … expanding access and expanding parks and public spaces along the Mississippi River.”

The controversy highlights another case where the protection of public access to the river, which has helped drive local tourism, faces a threat from a segment of the industry that has greatly benefited from this access. The riverboats are a thriving part of the visitor industry in New Orleans, and as their popularity continues to grow, it is possible, perhaps likely, that tourism vs. tourism along the riverfront will remain a recurring theme.

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MyNEwoRlEANs.coM february 2020 2 7

Chris rose

In Pursuit of a Chicken carnival at full gallop

by Chris Rose

this is an update to a story i wrote for this magazine back in 2015. Back then it was a memoir, a story of the past. Now it’s my life again.

The topic is the Courir de Mardi Gras, perhaps the most overblown and over-written cliché of all matters Mardi Gras. Most anyone of reading age in Louisiana knows the ribald stories of drunk Cajuns on drunk horses chasing (presumably sober) chickens through the vast prairies and rice fields of Acadiana, reveling in their own singular and insular celebration of the Carnival season.

Writers love stuff like that – the raw energy and earthiness of an indigenous culture expressing itself unbound by the constraints and judgment of the outside world. Untamed aggression, unfiltered ritual. Photographers love it even more, because the participants are dressed out like psychedelic Klansmen riding wild ponies, playing out a centuriesold tradition both nostalgic and profane.

I did a search through just this magazine’s archives and found a trove of stories about the event, the spectacle, each one straining over the years to say something new or enlightening about it. But it’s hard to say anything new about it, anything everyone doesn’t already know.

And there’s nothing enlightening about it.

Key search words: Painted horses. Drunk Cajuns.

Cheap wine. Saddle dancing. Terrified chickens.

Accordions and boudin. Bloody noses. Universal condemnation from PETA and most anyone else with any sense of decorum. But nobody has ever accused me of that.

Decorum, that is.

I had heard about the Courir years before I got a job in New Orleans back in 1984; the rawness, revelry and savagery of it all. It wasn’t on my bucket list when I moved here. It was my bucket list.

And so I rode for seven years, until I got married.

And marriage often changes a man, sometimes for better and sometimes for worse, as the saying goes.

But through the decades of raising kids and growing older – and presumably wiser – it was always in the back of my mind every time Carnival season

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came around.

And now it’s a new life. And a new life partner. She is a Navy veteran, foul mouthed, prodigiously tattooed with a fondness for cheap booze and constitutionally incapable of taking shit from anybody. And she knows how to ride a horse.

My kind of girl, it turns out.

I told her last winter about the Courir I used to ride out in the town of Eunice; how people get drunk, get rude, get hurt – but also about its swelling, nearly overbearing sense of hospitality to newcomers. And about the gumbo they serve at the end.

Let’s ride, she said. And so we rode.

I called up the same guy I rented horses from all those years ago, a gentle, one-eyed Creole cowboy named Darryl Guillory – Cowboy D, as he is know locally. He’s an actual black French cowboy who still drives cattle and still mends fences and tends to the needs of local ailing livestock – more informed and experienced than anyone with a veterinarian degree from LSU. He secured us a couple of ponies, put us up in his guest bedroom and made sure we were up by sunrise to make it to the party on time. It was – as it almost always seems to be – the coldest day of the year

on the Cajun prairie. Cold as bitter hell.

(A metaphor that makes no sense at all.)

And I fell back down the rabbit hole. Le Courir. It’s like riding a bicycle. Or a horse, more precisely.

In a region resistant to change, it was just how I remembered it. Wild. Crazy.

Scary. Barely legal.

But I am older now. I don’t chase the chickens anymore. That is the folly of young men. And I don’t stand up and dance on my saddle anymore.

I might get hurt.

But damn, its still the best possible way I know how to spend Fat Tuesday, the Lord’s true day of rest – because if he was watching this, he would smite the whole process, recognizing it for what it is: The most unbridled (pun intended) and decidedly most decadent Mardi Gras tradition in Louisiana.

And that’s saying a lot.

And so, we’re going back this year. This year and the next. And then probably some more. Until I forget how to ride a horse.

Just because it feels right. Because it feels like the home where I wasn’t born, but probably should have been.

La Louisiane.

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Jason raish illustration

MyNEwoRlEANs.coM february 2020 2 9

Modine GunCh

i used to stare at the GorGeous

houses on the St. Charles Avenue parade route, and think what I would give to live there— just for Carnival season.

Not no more.

I got to explain. My sister-inlaw-law Gloriosa has a St. Charles Avenue friend named Bitsi who is going skiing in Switzerland with her husband during Carnival. But her pet-sitter suddenly cancelled.

Gloriosa says this is the opportunity of a lifetime for the Gunch family: a luxury spot for all the big Uptown parades. We just need a responsible family member to move into Bitsi’s mansion and take care of their pet. It’s not a snake or nothing like that. Just a puppy named Teddy—a something-doodle, a poodle mix of some kind.

Well, I guess I can handle a cutesy-doodle puppy.

So I volunteer for two weeks, up until Ash Wednesday. The rest of the Gunches can come in for the parades, and bring food and whatever else I need.

Bitsi says she will leave a little note about Teddy’s routine, plus the alarm code and keys to the gate and front door with Gloriosa. She says Teddy is in her little kennel in the master bedroom, where she sleeps.

Gloriosa tags along with me to open up. We unlock the gate and the front door, and pounce 30 february 2020 MyNEwoRlEANs.coM

Along the Parade Route Adventures in house sitting

by Modine Gunch

on the alarm —two-zero-zeroeight—and look around. White carpets everywhere. An expensivelooking Oriental rug in the living room. Weird art on the walls. All of a sudden I am nervous. What if I break something? What if somebody steals the art? Spills on the rug?

We go upstairs to Teddy’s kennel.

It’s a big kennel for a puppy, covered in a sheet.

I reach under the sheet and open the door latch and SLAM! For a second, I think a bear is slobbering my face.

“Oh— I remember! It’s a St. Bernoodle,” says Gloriosa, leaping onto the bed.

Really? A mix of poodle-St. Bernard? Yes. They exist. For true.

I screech, “TEDDY, SIT!” He sits. He is a good dog.

The “little note” Bitsi left is four

pages, typed. Evidently Bitsi is one of them people who drop “little” into random sentences, like other people say “uh.”

One cup of puppy chow for breakfast, lunch and din-din. Walk him immediately after each meal and take a little poopy bag. Sleep in the master bedroom by his kennel.

Stuff like that.

I do it all.

Unfortunately, once the parades start, Teddy develops a taste for carnival beads, and he manages to scoff down a few dozen every walk. They don’t agree with his tummy, so he throws them up, and whatever else he ate, including a half a king cake he snarfed off the counter.

Naturally he chooses the Oriental rug for this.

I call the vet, and she recommends a Pepcid AC. That helps

Teddy, but not the rug.

We get into a pattern. Every night, after he pukes up Carnival beads, Teddy takes his Pepcid AC, falls asleep with his head in my lap, and I slip him into his kennel, like you slip a sleeping baby into the crib. Except you carry the baby, not drag it.

Also, Teddy snores. And he passes gas in his sleep. I just as well be sleeping with a husband.

And I am worried about telling Bitsi what happened to her Oriental rug.

It ain’t the best Carnival season for me.

Ash Wednesday is a good day for confessing, so I tell Bitsi as soon as she walks in the door.

“Oh, we’ll just throw it out,” she says. “We’ve done that every other Carnival.”

Turns out they used to entertain their son and his college friends every year during Carnival, and they treated the rug the same as Teddy did (only it wasn’t Carnival beads they threw up.) Last year the boy graduated, but she’s used to buying a rug every year, anyway.

She gets them at Walmart.

Me, from now on I will be happy on a tarp somewhere, with an ice chest, a ladder for the grandkids, and a public bathroom down the block.

Happy Mardi Gras.

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lori osieCki illustration

MyNEwoRlEANs.coM february 2020 3 1

Joie d’eVe

Suns for the kids). Which brings me to: 4. C o u n t i nG C a lo r i e s. I have

eaten King Cake for breakfast every single morning this week, often followed by a second dose of afternoon King Cake. And I don’t even really like King Cake. Look, I love leafy green vegetables and tofu and quinoa and shredded wheat cereal with skim milk. I love salads and baked fish and seven-grain bread.

But it’s just not happening for the next few days. The next few days are going to be fried gluttony drowned in icing and soaked in booze. It’s how it’s supposed to be.

5 . s C h o o l a p p l i C at i o n s .

Krewsin’ Through the Month Five Things i’m Not Going to worry About Until Ash wednesday

by Eve Crawford Peyton

1. C l e a n i n G M y h o u s e . Last

week, I spent an hour cleaning my daughters’ room. I also tidied up the living room and cleaned my car. Now all three of those spaces are strewn with stuffed animals and piled with beads. I can’t fight it. Carnival clutter wins this round.

2. B e dt i M e . Even under normal

circumstances, I am not the best at bedtime, but man, all bets are off from now till Fat Tuesday. My kids typically fall asleep in the car on the way home from the night parades, and then it’s a 50-50 bet as to whether they’ll sleep through being transferred from the car to

32 february 2020 MyNEwoRlEANs.coM

the bed or whether they’ll wake up and want to ask me endless questions about human evolution/ the facts of life/the ethics of modern warfare/anything else I don’t feel like discussing with small humans ever but particularly not post-11 p.m. Normal parts of the routine such as baths, pajamas, and books fall by the wayside, too. They are carried in from the car, sticky and filthy, and put to bed in their sticky, filthy clothes. (We do at least take off the beads so they don’t strangle themselves.) If they wake up, they might get a bath, but it’s far likelier that I will just halfheartedly slick a damp washcloth around their

Accelerated Reading logs. The presidential election season. That weird rattling noise my car is making. Why my water bill was so high last month. All of these things are valid. All of them are potentially worth worrying about.

But for the next stretch of days, I am worrying only about what comes after the next float.

Come Wednesday, I’ll go to church and I’ll go for a jog and I’ll drink a kale smoothie and I’ll 3. B a l a n C e d M e a l s. Last year clean my house and pack up all the on the night of Muses, Ruby ate Mardi Gras crap for charity and/or three chicken nuggets and a bag my attic. I’ll feed my kids organic of Pirate Booty in the car, veggies and wash and followed up with cotton comb their hair and candy and half of a candy excerpted from eve dress them in clean apple. Georgia ate a cup of Crawford peyton’s PJs and read them blog, Joie d’eve, which dry cereal, a cheese stick, appears each friday on three bedtime stories and two Hershey Kisses. MyNewOrleans.com each and tuck them in My dinner was coffee at 9 p.m. sharp. And laced with bourbon. For the next then I will lie awake worrying about few days, we’re just going to eat on all the things I postponed worrying the fly, probably meals composed about until Carnival was over.

But until then, I’m going to largely of the basic Carnival food groups of fried chicken, King Cake, have fun. salty snacks, and daiquiris (Capri Happy Mardi Gras, y’all! faces and hands.

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Jane sanDers illustration

MyNEwoRlEANs.coM february 2020 3 3

in tune

MusT-see Music Feb. 1

Tool rocks the smoothie King center.

Feb. 7 DJ miChael brun

Flow Tribe funks up Tipitina’s .

Feb. 8

Main squeeze + Moon hooch rock one Eyed Jacks.

Feb. 14

John Gros kicks off carnival at Tipitina’s.

Feb. 15

summer salt breezes into one Eyed Jacks.

Krewe To Do

Feb. 16

zack Villere rocks Gasa Gasa.

when music rules

by Mike Griffith

Feb. 22

it seeMs aMaZinG that CarniVal is already here to sway you, the Haitian musician collective Lakou again. It always seems like it’s an eternity away in Mizik rounds out the top of the bill. Lakou Mizik December and then it pounces upon us all at once. came together after the Haitian earthquake to show There are some really great shows coming this month to the world that their country is more than the sum of augment your usual Mardi Gras festivities, starting with negative representation in the media. This all goes the Krewe du Kanaval—one of the youngest Carnival down at the Mahalia Jackson and benefits the KNAPE organization. This Krewe was created for the 2018 Mardi Foundation, which helps poor Haitian families achieve Gras season by Win Butler and Régine Chassagne of financial autonomy. If you’re interested in donating the band Arcade Fire and Ben Jaffe of Preservation a bit more you can even ride with the Krewe as part Hall Jazz Band. The seed for this organization was of the Krewe of Freret the next day. planted back in 2015 when Butler and Chassagne If you’re looking for something a bit more local, brought Jaffe and the members of Preservation Hall that same night John Papa Gros will be hosting his to Haiti for an exploration of Chassagne’s—herself a annual Carnival Kickoff at Tipitina’s. This is a great daughter of Haitian immigrants—musical heritage. party which always features a wide variety of excellent I’ve been keeping a close eye on this group as it has local talent. You never really know who is going to evolved over the past couple of years and I have to show up, but you are guaranteed an amazing show.

Finally, I would be remiss if I did not say it seems like they have really found their mention the fact that the month begins stride with this season’s plans.

The Kanaval Ball will be the evening of with Tool performing at the Smoothie playlist of mentioned Friday the 14th, with headlining performances bands available King Center on the 1st. Late last year

by Arcade Fire and the Preservation Hall Jazz at: http://bit.ly/ the veteran progressive metal legends Band. The event also features a remarkable intune2-20 released their first record in 13 years to group of Caribbean musicians. The lineup great critical acclaim. I was one of my includes outstanding Haitian DJ Michael Brun who personal favorites of 2019. Tool has always been a has made a career of deftly blending electronic dance great friend to New Orleans. They have headlined beats with traditional Haitian styles. They will also Voodoo Fest twice and the UNO arena has been a be joined by Jillionaire—the Trinidadian DJ and regular stop on their tours. That being said, Tool producer know for his work with the Major Lazer doesn’t tour that often and you won’t want to miss electronic music ensemble. If that were not enough this chance to see them.

.

34 february 2020 MyNEwoRlEANs.coM

silversun Pickups rock the Fillmore.

Feb. 29

bon iver enchants the saenger.

Feb. 29

Magic city hippies pop at Gasa Gasa.

Dates are subject to change; email Mike@ MyNeworleans.com or contact him through Twitter @Minima.

MyNEwoRlEANs.coM february 2020 3 5

ChroniCles

Pete opened a club on Bourbon Street, and Plotkin, a young lawyer at the time, dropped in, and was immediately taken with Fountain’s music. Eventually, he would become Fountain’s attorney. Meanwhile, every Mardi Gras found him with the Half-Fast group.

As Plotkin explained, at first all the members would dress alike in some national costume.

(He admitted that the Mexican outfit is still in a closet at home.) Eventually they all began dressing in matching tuxedos – colors varying with the year.

Since 2020 – the 60th– is the diamond year – there is a special color. “I wouldn’t know how to describe it to you --- it’s BRIGHT! Looks great in the sunlight,” Benny Harrell explained. Last year was pink, according to Plotkin.

With the tuxedos go matching shirts and hats, all worn with comfortable shoes. Harrell and the other officers (including Plotkin) will be easily identified by their regalia.

The club has banners (Plotkin’s grandsons have carried them on the route) and, this Pete Fountain’s krewe keeps on walking year, there will be special club flags that

by Carolyn Kolb members can display on their houses at Carnival season.

There are club doubloons, special throws, “we don’t MarCh.” Benny Harrell insisted.

Gras morning. At Pete’s insistence, the next year and even bobble heads to distribute to the “Or stroll.” Nor do they wander, or meander… they did it again: this time, without the ladies. cheering crowds on the route. Of course, and they never rush. They have been doing this The newly changed name followed and Pete’s there is always music, and since Pete’s annually for 60 years this Mardi Gras Fountain’s Half Fast Walking Club became an death in 2016, the band always includes musicians who played with him. A streetcar“We walk,” Harrell explained. The speed? essential part of morning Mardi Gras. like truck float offered Pete a chance to sit “Half Fast.”

Pete Fountain had grown up in downtown and play in his later years, and the band He admits the original name of the group New Orleans, started playing clarinet in grammar will be riding this year, as will some older was Pete Fountain’s Half-Assed Walking Club school on Esplanade Avenue, and went on to members. There’s a float to hold members’ – but propriety prevailed. At the insistence of Warren Easton High School. He benefitted Pete’s widow, Beverly Fountain, the name was from good public school music teachers (some extra beads and throws, and one vehicle is changed. The walking group is captained today of whom moonlighted in dance bands.) By a rolling restroom.

by Harrell, husband of Darrah Fountain, Pete his teenaged years, Fountain was a regular The route begins at Commanders’ Palace, performer on Bourbon Street. His signature where members show their medallions for and Beverly’s daughter. admittance to the courtyard around 5 a.m.

And, this year, as he has since the year the mellow tone, and his jazzy phrasing, proved and enjoy some refreshments club began, retired Judge Steven Plotkin will popular both locally, and nationally, take his place, in costume, as the club steps out earning him a move to California and before they leave after 7 a.m.

Mardi Gras morning on Washington Avenue, two years on the popular Lawrence pete and his father They go down St. Charles to Canal pops fountain on aimed for St. Charles, where they will turn Welk dance band television show in mardi gras day in Street, take Bourbon to Esplanade, right and make their way to Canal Street. At the late 1950s. A little musical strife the early 1970’s then go back up Royal Street to the Monteleone Hotel, where 83, Plotkin says he is “in good shape” for the (supposedly Pete jazzed up a rendition of “Silver Bells” on a Christmas Show) led to members have lunch. celebration.

Pete Fountain’s Half Fast Walking Club was Pete’s departure from the Welk entourage.

The Half Fast parade is also a family the outgrowth of the famed local clarinetist’s Fountain signed with Decca records and gathering. Plotkin’s physician son is coming immediately had an album with enough sales in from Boston and Benny Harrell’s family lifelong love for his city’s premier holiday.

According to Harrell, one year the Fountains to go “gold.” A long string of good selling connections will be along. Sixty years of and some other couples grouped together in a albums followed, and he could move back parading with friends and family: Pete long, liquid walk along the parade route Mardi home from California.

Fountain’s legacy continues.

Half Fast Makes sixty

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36 february 2020 MyNEwoRlEANs.coM

MyNEwoRlEANs.coM february 2020 3 7

hoMe

under Three roofs The house that kept going

by Lee Cutrone photographed by Greg Miles

when realtor terrenCe daVis

first got a call about selling a friend’s property, he had no designs on making it his own. But as the friend walked him through the prospective listing, which includes a Victorian shotgun, an early 20th century commercial space that once served as the original location of Hansen’s Sno-bliz, and a tiny mother-in-law efficiency hidden from the street, a new plan began to develop.

38 february 2020 MyNEwoRlEANs.coM

“We walked through the front door and the property kept going and going,” said Terrence. “Doing this every day as a realtor specializing in renovation and design and new construction, I knew what this property could be with a little attention.”

The previous owner, a New Orleans native and former professor of urban planning at Columbia University, began renovating the empty commercial space

years earlier while his parents lived in the shotgun, but eventually had to put the plans aside. In Terrence, he saw someone who would be intentional about respecting the past while updating the structures for today.

“Terrence found some old articles about how the commercial space had been a pharmacy, a bike shop, a grocery,” said Katie.

“That’s what appealed to me. It had potential. It was so unique.”

above: guest house with second floor loft. rustic (wood-finish ceramic floors and exposed beams) meets modern (white walls, clerestory windows and iron stair rail) in the guest house.

The couple closed in January of 2019, renovated the main house first and moved in, along with their eight-year old daughter, in March.

They cleared away the overgrown garden and awnings that obscured the front of the 1907 house, preserved its original wood floors, transoms, doors, windows and fireplaces, gutted the kitchen and bath, added new hardware, enclosed a small side porch in order to use the square footage for a laundry and clothes closets, and painted and decorated.

Next, came the mother-in-law quarters behind the main house. The couple refreshed it with new surfaces in the kitchen and bath and with comfortable furnishings for guests.

The final stage was the next-door building that had been vacant for years. They followed the same open floorplan that the previous owner had framed with a few tweaks and the addition of a full bath to go with its second, loft-style bedroom upstairs.

“We wanted to do it right, so we took our time,” said Katie, who spent

top, left: White hexagonal tiles on the kitchen’s focal wall and backsplash are mixed with a dark gray center island, soft gray built-in cabinets and a mix of warm and cool metals. top, right: katie, terrence and kennedy Davis (l to r). bottom: the once commercial building at left is now a guest house; the 1907 shotgun cottage is the main house.

MyNEwoRlEANs.coM february 2020 3 9

top, left: the Davises preserved original features such as the brick fireplaces, pocket doors and windows in the main house and worked with designer peyton bainbridge to decorate. top right: a wall-mount counter with a pair of orange stools stowed beneath are part of the guest house’s minimalist design. bottom, right: industrial lighting and glam mirrors are combined in the cottage’s bathroom. bottom, left: matching consoles, comfortable barrel back chairs and lamps with woven leather bases flank the living room fireplace.

left: a space-saving loft bed allows for a play area underneath in kennedy’s purple bedroom. right: symmetry and pale neutrals are simple and serene in the master bedroom.

many hours picking out tiles and other finishes with her husband.

Both love the creativity of the design process. They also share a mutual love for real estate that began when they were living in Europe. Terrence, who was then playing professional basketball, became interested in real estate as an investment opportunity.

But what started as a thoughtfully considered business decision soon became a full-blown passion. Together, the Davises, who find inspiration in the Old World architecture of Europe and New Orleans, have renovated eight properties in the Uptown area.

What set this one apart was its age and history.

“This is the oldest we’ve ever done,” said Terrence. “We loved the challenge of the history with the modern, the old with the new.”

Like the shotgun, the guest cottage is a mix of both. Exposed beams across its airy vaulted ceiling and picture windows across its facade suggest its rustic commercial origins and passersby regularly inquire about it.

Since the Davises are seasoned renovators, they had a clear idea of what they wanted the refurbished property to look like. After selecting the finishes themselves,

they hired local designer Peyton Bainbridge to complete their vision with furniture and appointments.

The fully realized project lives much larger than its predecessor.

While the main house incorporates only 1,305 square feet, it’s enhanced by the guest house’s 1,350 square feet of open living and the mother-in-law quarters’ 280 square-foot linear arrangement. Front and back porches and a hidden courtyard expand the overall footprint with places to enjoy the outdoors.

“When I first went in, I thought the main house might have been small for us,” said Terrence. “Then

I saw that the guest house in back was great for guests and the original snowball stand as spillover space for us. Its design is open the way modern living is today.”

“We entertain a lot, we like hosting parties and people,” said Katie, adding another reason why the unusual trifecta of dwellings works so well.

The Davis’s daughter Kennedy sums it up this way, “I like our new house because it feels like home.”

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MyNEwoRlEANs.coM february 2020 41

Oh well, it’s Carnival time and everybody’s drinkin’ wine.

Munch and To-go options for food and festivity along the parade route

BY SUZANNE PFEFFERLE TAFUR

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ERIKA HAVEN

a

Al Johnson warbled those words in his classic Mardi Gras song, recorded in 1960 (because after all, you can’t go wrong with a rich cabernet on a chilly parade night). But nowadays, in addition to their preferred wine (boxed, bottled, or canned), revelers are sipping strawberry margaritas, Paradise Park lagers, and fizzy champagne — and they are snacking on bites from the city’s best restaurants.

Food and beverage options along the parade route seem to improve with each passing season, and this preview proves that Mardi Gras 2020 is no exception.

Eateries on and near the parade route are serving up specialty drinks and packaged hot meals to-go, including crispy fried chicken baskets, batches of BBQ hot wings, and heaps of jambalaya (just to name a few). Other locales are setting up outdoor concession stands and offering catering menus, so that parade-goers and house-party hosts can plan ahead.

But if you are bringing your own goodies to the parade, check out our suggestions on what to pack – and how to pack it. We can almost guarantee there won’t be a soggy or squished poor boy in sight.

Uptown St. CharleS avenUe Picnic Provisions & Whiskey is situated just a few blocks from Jefferson and Magazine, where several parades begin. So when feeding your hungry tribe of family and friends, consider Picnic’s catering menu for to-go options, before heading out to the route. A mixed chicken basket, complete with cornbread and collard greens, for $105, or a box of crawfish boil hot fried chicken sandwiches, for $117, will hit the spot. The menu includes sides and beverage selections.

Tip Picnic Provisions & Whiskey hosts a daily happy hour, from 3 p.m. to 7 p.m., making it an ideal place for some pre-parade fun.

Tip Be sure to pack plenty of beverages for parade watching.

Glass is a no-no, so go with chilled canned beer, wine and premixed cocktails.

Uptown -St. CharleS avenUe The front gallery of The Columns Hotel (3811 St. Charles Avenue) is the perfect place for relishing a panoramic view of the parade, admiring the dazzling floats, and people watching – all while enjoying quintessential New Orleans cuisine. The charming locale will host a four-course brunch and all-day seating on Bacchus Sunday, for $100; and breakfast and lunch, until 3 p.m. (with takeaway and a la carte bistro menus after that), and all day seating on Fat Tuesday, for $125.

The Columns is also providing passerby an express menu with three popular take-away items, ranging from $6 to $8.

Celebrate LulaGras at Lula Restaurant Distillery (1532 St. Charles Avenue) as the parades ramble down the avenue. Guests can visit the Barrel Room and sample a little bit of everything from an all-you-can-eat buffet. Dishes vary depending on the day, but overall they include pulled pork, jambalaya, gumbo, red beans and rice, fried chicken tenders, bread pudding, and of course, king cake. Tickets

10,000 king cakes Over the course of Carnival, District: Donuts. Sliders. Brew. is planning to sell more than 10,000 king cakes.

range from $45 to $60 and pay for access to restrooms and a cash bar.

Patrons can also watch the parade from atop a private balcony.

Superior Seafood & Oyster Bar (4338 St. Charles Avenue) will set up an outdoor bar and sell classic cocktails and signature drinks, like the Campari With Us, $9, with Milagro tequila, Campari, yellow Chartreuse, lemon juice, and orange bitters. Inside the vast restaurant, which grants a closeup view of the Uptown parade route, diners can enjoy a variety of Creole food favorites: char-grilled oysters, $25 for a dozen; crawfish and crab bisque, $8 a cup; BBQ shrimp, $15; and fried alligator, $13.

Uptown - Magazine Street La Boulangerie (4600 Magazine Street) sells Carnival-inspired delicacies to-go, including a Floodwater punch, $6, and a soft pretzel king cake, $16, topped with purple, green and gold salt and plated with whole grain mustard; along with their usual favorites, like a pork sausage and cheddar cheese breakfast sandwich, $6.50; salami on a buttered baguette, $8.50; chicken salad on a croissant, $9.50; and steamy gumbo with rice, $7.

Although it’s new to the Mardi Gras food scene, Picnic Provisions & Whiskey (741 State Street) is already a crowd-pleaser. During Thoth Sunday, the restaurant will set up an outdoor bar and serve three mild fried chicken tenders (or two hot chicken thighs) for $6.

Add a Paradise Park lager for $2.

Wine, beer, and strawberry habanero margaritas will also be on hand. The full bar and restaurant menu will be available inside.

There’s an arT To packing an ice chesT for parades.

To fit everything you need, and to prevent snacks from getting mushy, place your beverages and cocktail mixers into the ice chest first.

Add ice, and then edibles sealed in Ziploc bags.

Need food ideas?

Try potato salad, which easily morphs into any space; pistolette or French bread sandwiches stuffed with deli meat, wrapped in a napkin (which you can use later!) and aluminum foil; or peeled, hard-boiled eggs, already sprinkled with salt and pepper.

Remember to label packaged items with a Sharpie marker.

That way, you aren’t unwrapping and rewrapping sandwiches, searching for the “turkey with no mayo.”

Downtown

Adding Mexican flair to traditional Mardi Gras festivities, Araña Taqueria y Cantina (3242 Magazine Street) will provide frozen margaritas with four to-go cups, for $49, to revelers en route to the parade.

Effervescence Bubbles & Bites (1036 N Rampart Street) will supply revelers with a $45 parade pack that includes one bottle of Faire La Fête Sparkling Brut, four champagne to-go cups, and an ice bag to keep your bubbles nice and cool.

Uptown - toUro Milan Lounge (1312 Milan Street) – a hotspot during Carnival season – will serve double bloody marys and double hurricanes, for $10 each, an assortment of jello shots, canned beer, boxed wine, and cocktails to-go. Milan Lounge will have small snacks on-hand, and possibly a food truck stationed outside.

warehoUSe DiStriCt anD the CBD Co c h o n B u t c h e r ( 9 3 0 Tchoupitoulas) will prepare their popular mini king cakes, complete with a cute piglet, for $7.50. These sweet treats are easy to munch while you’re on the move.

Inside the Ace Hotel (600 Carondelet Street), Josephine Estelle and Stumptown Coffee Roasters will delight merrymakers with one-of-a-kind king cake scones, filled with cream cheese and covered with purple, green and yellow sprinkles, $4. Josephine Estelle will also offer gourmet to-go snacks and drinks, all day (starting at 7 a.m.).

MUltiple loCationS

kid-sized fun Pack small water bottles and canned drinks (like the eightounce variety) to prevent waste.

Juice pouches are easy to pack.

Surprise little ones with treats they don’t often eat: MoonPies, mini powdered donuts, spice drop candies, and snack-sized bags of Elmer’s CheeWees or Zapp’s Potato Chips. Keep them munching (and busy), while waiting for the parade, with pockets of shelled peanuts.

If you’re stocking up on dulcet donuts (or savory bites) before a long day of parades, you can count on District: Donuts.Sliders.

Brew. (multiple locations; visit districtdonuts.com) for creative takes on this beloved dessert.

But the café is also baking two types of king cake – an old-school brioche confection, dusted with colorful sugars and sprinkles; and a cake made with a Danish, croissant-style dough, coated in a pearly glaze. Prices range from $15 to $25.

MiD-City If you’re headed to Mid-City for the Krewe of Endymion, swing by Blue Oak BBQ (900 North Carrollton Avenue). The restaurant is preparing pick-up orders comprised of 50 smoked wings and a gallon of a specialty daiquiri, for $90. Other tasty menu choices include the jerk pulled pork sandwich with slaw and fresh jalapeño, $12.25, and a classic cheeseburger made with brisket and sharp cheddar, $13.25. Such sides as roasted garlic macaroni and cheese, potato salad, and ginger sesame slaw are available for $7.25 a pint.

Hosting a House party?

La Boulangerie can help. Their catering menu includes an assorted sandwich platter, desserts and breakfast pastries (prices vary), along with a Congregation Coffee carafe, complete with paper cups, stirrers, and sugars, for $30.

1 Cut up a large king cake before heading out the parade; slicing it in on the route gets messy.

2 Wrap hot foods in foil and place in a disposable foil pan or pie tin, which will keep them from getting broken.

Store in a brown paper bag; this will keep the goods warm and insulated.

3 Be sure to bring paper plates, cups, cutlery, napkins, a garbage bag, and baby wipes, which are perfect for cleaning sticky hands.

Crawfish season can start as early as December, which means you may be able to enjoy spicy, boiled crustaceans while watching the parades. Bevi Seafood Co. (236 Carrollton Avenue; 4701 Airline Drive) provides crawfish live, boiled, and catered on-site.

Not sure how much crawfish to buy? Bevi suggests five pounds per person.

Prices vary each season.

Visit beviseafoodco.com for more information.

Mardi gras shopping go-cups Takin’ it to the streets: These go-cups, carriers, and festive necessities are perfect for parties on the parade route. (They also make great hostess gifts!) Bead fence, bead tree, crown, and Nola “nom noms” cups; each $12.95 for a sleeve of 10, from Miss Smarty Pants. (misssmartypantsnola.com)

oysTer beer boTTle opener $13.95, from Miss Smarty Pants. (misssmartypantsnola.com)

four-ounce, funcTional braceleT flask $17.99, from NOLA Gifts & Décor. (nolagiftsanddecor.com) canvas ToTe bag $24.99, from NOLA Gifts & Décor. (nolagiftsanddecor.com)

corkcicle cooler eola buckeT bag $130, from PHINA. (phinashop.com)

beer freeze cup wiTh cooling gel $20, from PHINA; keeps your beverage cold for hours. (phinashop.com)

fleur de lis beverage napkins $7.50, from PHINA. (phinashop.com)

Food From tHe Heart

On the other side of St. Charles Avenue, near Sacred Heart’s Mater Campus (4301 St. Charles Avenue), members of the Academy of Sacred Heart’s Fathers’ Club will serve frozen daiquiris, beer, and hot meals from within a trailer.

Carnival 2020

Parade Guide saTurday, feb. 1

Krewe of Chewbacchus 7 p.m., Marigny

friday, feb. 7

Krewe Boheme 7 p.m., French Quarter

saTurday, feb. 8

saTurday, feb. 15

friday, feb. 21

Monday, feb. 24

Krewe of Choctaw follows

Krewe of Hermes 5:30 p.m., Uptown

Krewe of Orpheus follows

Krewe of Freret follows

Krewe d’Etat 6:30 p.m., Uptown

Knights of Sparta 5:30 p.m., Uptown

Krewe of Morpheus 7 p.m., Uptown

Krewe of Pontchartrain Noon, Uptown

Krewe of Bosom Buddies 11:30 a.m., French Quarter

Krewe of Proteus 5:15 p.m., Uptown

Tuesday, feb. 25

Krewe of Zulu 8 a.m., Uptown

Krewe du Vieux 6:30 p.m., French Quarter

Krewe of Pygmalion follows Sparta

Krewedelusion follows

Magical Krewe of Mad Hatters 5 p.m., Metairie

Krewe of Iris 11 a.m., Uptown

Elks Orleanians follows Rex

sunday, feb. 9

Krewe of Centurions 6 pm, Metairie

Krewe of Tucks Noon, Uptown

Krewe of Crescent City follows Elks Orleanians

Krewe of Endymion 4:15 p.m., Mid-City

Krewe of Argus 10 a.m., Metairie

Little Rascals Noon, Metairie ‘tit R x 4:30 p.m., Marigny

sunday, feb. 16

Mystick Krewe of Femme Fatale 11 a.m., Uptown

saTurday, feb. 22

sunday, feb. 23

Krewe of Carrollton follows

Krewe of Okeanos 10 a.m., Uptown

Krewe of Cork 3 p.m., French Quarter

Krewe of King Arthur follows

Krewe of Mid-City 11 a.m., Uptown

Krewe of Excalibur 7:30 p.m., Metairie

Krewe of Barkus 2 p.m., French Quarter

Krewe of Thoth 11:15 a.m., Uptown

Krewe of Oshun 6 p.m., Uptown

Krewe of Kings 5:30 p.m., Metairie

Krewe of Bacchus 5:15 p.m., Uptown

friday, feb. 14

Krewe of Cleopatra 6:30 p.m., Uptown Krewe of Alla follows

wednesday, feb. 19

Krewe of Druids 6:15 p.m., Uptown Krewe of Nyx 7 p.m., Uptown

Thursday, feb. 20

Krewe of Babylon 5 p.m., Uptown Krewe of Chaos 5:45 pm, Uptown Krewe of Muses 6 p.m., Uptown

Krewe of Athena 5:30 p.m., Metairie Krewe of Pandora follows

Krewe of Rex 10 a.m., Uptown

Krewe of Elks Jefferson follows Argus Krewe of Jefferson follows Elks Jefferson

Northshore parades can be found on our Carnival coverage page located on our website, myneworleans.com.

D EF I N I NG A

SUPER KREWE BACK TO THE ORIGINS

By Errol Laborde

D

uring the 1980s, I was working at Gambit newspaper where one of my duties consisted of writing a weekly column during the Carnival season under the nom de plume, Rex Duke. Rex was a rarity, a Carnival parade critic. No one else at the time was commenting on the quality of float designs or chiding riders for not wearing masks.

Duke praised the krewes that were loyal to tradition and trashed those parades that used cheap secondhand floats.

There was strong reaction to the column, especially from krewe captains who were either pleased or chagrined that somebody was paying attention to their work.

One early question in developing the column was how to distinguish

some of the parade types, for not all were alike. At the time there were two terms generally used to classify parades, “old-line” and “commercial.”

The former were those krewes that were founded in the 19thcentury, i.e., Rex, Comus, Momus and Proteus. “Commercial” referred to krewes that were formed mostly by the 1930s, quite often among neighborhood groups such as the Krewes of Carrollton, Mid-City and Freret.

(Inexplicably, they really had nothing to do with being commercial.)

Rex Duke reviewed the old-lines as a group (Hermes and Babylon were old-line in style and were included even though they were not as old as the others.) The rest were lumped together as their own group.

Most troubling, though, was what to do with the modern krewes of Bacchus (debut: 1969), as well as Endymion which shifted from being

a small neighborhood parade to a “super krewe” in 1975 and then eventually Orpheus (1994). They were large in the number of riders, but what really distinguished them was floats. Bacchus had set the pattern with towering multi-level floats and then some multi-part (tandem) floats.

Super krewes had parade themes that appealed more to pop culture than literary sojourns as preferred by the older krewes. (Bacchus’ first theme was “The Best Things in Life.”) Endymion would do everything bigger; carrying more riders and lots of sparkle.

Originally Rex was included in the “Super Pantheon.” It was eventually removed from the list not as a put-down, but as a compliment. The word that best describes the King of Carnival’s parade is “classic.” It does not aspire or have the most riders, or the biggest floats, but it does want its floats to be original and well designed, and for the parade to be well timed and efficient. It is in a category of its own.

Orpheus, on the other hand, qualified as a super krewe in terms of the size of its krewe and its floats.

Of the three supers, it is the most artistic, including much of the old-line concepts such as featuring lots of sequined paper flowers swaying to the waddle of the floats. (“Super” the, word, became fashionable because of a 1960s pop culture revival bringing to TV, and eventually movie screens, characters such as Bat Man and Superman, who previously could be found only on comic pages. The term, which was associated with action and bigness, became so popular that in 1967 when the NFL established its championship game featuring the winners in what was then two leagues, the Commissioner’s office gave in to the press which insisted on calling the game a “super bowl.”)

Ok, here we go: At this point, I need to mention that, as the original Rex Duke, I created the phrase “Super Krewe” and in effect established the boundaries of what defines them. I say that not to be bragging (although I am proud to have had a part on the making of what is now a standard carnival phrase) but to establish some credibility in explaining what the term was originally intended to mean.

This has become an issue because in recent years, there have been some references to the term being applied to other groups. Two years ago, the Krewe of Nyx even sent out a press release declaring itself (after a ridership growth spurt) to be a super krewe. If you google the phrase, you will that name sometimes even applied to Zulu. If the term was based on just the number of riders, it could also be attached to Thoth, Iris and even the truck parades.

Since there is no legal definition, or ruling judges, I at least offer a practical description, based on intent, of what defines a super krewe:

1. Yes, the number of riders matters, but it is not the sole criterion. A super krewe, as the name implies, should be big but it should also have originality too.

2. Floats should be visually impressive. Here’s where the bling and bells and whistles (as mastered

by Endymion) comes. Each float should be a sensory experience.

3. Most of the floats should be owned by the krewe. This is a way of avoiding rethreads.

4. Super krewes tend to be awash with celebrities.

Some stars, as in Bacchus’ case, serve as king, others are just riding along, mostly to perform at the ticketed blow-out party that follows. (By contrast, the other krewes more often have traditional invitational balls.)

5. There should be distinguished signature elements: Bacchus has its house dinosaur, Bacchasaurus, and whale, Bacchawhoppa; Endymion has the multiplepart Pontchartrain Beach tandem; Orpheus has its Smoky Mary train and the serpentine Leviathan which also has optic lighting.

It could be argued that super krewes properly belong to the night when there is more dazzle from the lighting.

There could also be something to the reasoning given by U.S. Supreme Court Justice Potter Stewart in a 1964 case about pornography. Conceding that the term was hard to define he added however that, “I know it when I see it.”

Being judged to be super is, I guess super, but it is not all that Carnival is about. While Endymion, Bacchus and Orpheus no doubt do much to attract extra visitors to the city during the last weekend of Carnival; they also push the city’s burden of police, sanitation and security. Bless them all, but three super krewes are enough, New Orleans has a deeply rooted Carnival culture, as well as a population that is youthful, if not always in age, certainly in spirit. There are also elements of music heritage, ethnic mix, generally friendly winter climate, and civic support. It is a fertile ground for guarding and expanding carnival traditions.

Nothing could be more opposite to the super krewes than the shoebox sized floats of the “‘tit R x” krewe.

(Yes, that’s a schwa, an upside down “e,” between the R and the X. It is there as a lawyers’ compromise.)

Here the emphasis is on micro rather than macro, with each float having its own design that reflects the artistic spirit of the Marigny neighborhood.

(Don’t expect to catch a pair of those bloated beads now being thrown from some parades. They would be bigger than the floats.)

What defines a great parade? It doesn’t have to be super, but it should be creative in its own way.

We will know it when we see it.

KREWES OF ALL TYPES There can be other superlatives to describe a parade: Proteus, Orpheus and Hermes are all beautiful. Le Krewe d’Etat, Chaos, and Tucks are satirical. Sparta is the first traditional-style night parade to roll each year. Rex is classic, the ultimate role model.

Zulu is big and diverse.

Mid-City sparkles with its use of colored foils to decorate floats. Muses, an all-female krewe, is popular and innovative.

Nyx is following in its tradition. Carrollton, Okeanos, Pontchartrain and King Arthur hearken back to early weekend day parades.

Druids is a parade for parade organizers to have their own ride.

They do not have to be super; nor do they have to be Uptown. Some of carnival’s best masking is provided by the throngs who walk with the Society of St. Anne, whose Mardi Gras morning procession moves from Marigny through the Quarter toward Canal Street.

Krewe du Vieux, a loose gathering of groups, uses smaller but feistily decorated floats, and spreads its irreverence through the Quarter. In the Marigny, Chewbacchus presents an off-beat confederacy of groups that reflect the spirit of the neighborhood.

In the distance, the beat continues.

Photograph of Elinor Bright dressed as Queen of Carnival from the series made by Arthur P. Bedou.

The Historic New Orleans Collection, Gift of Mrs. Edmund B. Richardson, acc. no. 1993.71.109.

The

Crown CArnivAl 1920 A Queen, A GenerAl And sTories To Tell

by WAyne PhilliPs

A

few specific years in the modern history of carnival have been recorded as being particularly momentous: the first appearance of the Mistick Krewe of Comus in 1857, the reemergence of Comus in 1866 after the Civil War, the first appearance of Rex in 1872, and more recently, the police strike in 1979 and the first postKatrina Mardi Gras in 2006. A century ago, the year 1920 was also remarkable due not only to the events of that year and the years just prior but also the individuals involved.

As most carnival followers know, over the last 163 years since the birth of Comus, Mardi Gras celebrations were canceled or curtailed only a handful of times. These absent years include the Civil War, a year of civil unrest in 1875, World War I, the Korean Conflict, and World War II. But carnival never failed to come back, and these interruptions often led to changes or even losses of treasured traditions.

The year 1920 witnessed the first carnival comeback of the twentieth century. Parades and balls had been absent in 1918 and 1919 during

World War I, while many of New Orleans’s men were off to war and women at home turned their attention to supporting the war effort.

Even though armistice was signed in November of 1918, the city remained bereft of a large portion of its male citizenry for some time, and krewes sat out 1919 with an eye toward redoubling their efforts for a return in 1920.

However, with most krewes perhaps still nursing psychological wounds from the war and lacking the energy and finances for a showy return, the only krewe that staged a parade in 1920 was Rex. Still, gone was the longtime tradition of the Monday arrival of the King of Carnival by royal yacht on the river at the foot of Canal Street, along with His Majesty’s procession in a special Monday King carriage to Gallier Hall to receive the key to the city.

The 1920 Rex parade theme, “Life’s Pilgrimage”, whether by accident or intent, carried a meaningful message about the hardships and the pleasures of life. The lead float in the parade, entitled “Good and Evil Cast Lots for the Soul,” can be considered a direct response to the unimaginable experience of the war just past. The final two floats in the parade, “Sunset of Life” and “Dawn of a New Day,” suggest resurrection of life after death, much as the spirit of carnival had been renewed.

sPiriTuAl hoMe As significant as World War I was as a forced hiatus of Carnival celebrations, other events around that time had a major impact on Carnival. The spiritual home for carnival balls for decades, the French Opera House burned to the ground in December 1919, leaving a gaping wound in the heart of the French Quarter but also advancing the cause of historic preservation in the city’s oldest neighborhood.

Ironically, just as Carnival was reborn and the Jazz Age was kicking off, ratification of the 18th Amendment to the U. S. Constitution in early 1920 led to Prohibition. In the midst of this, women’s suffrage became law. A young witness to all this history was Elinor Bright, Queen of Carnival in 1920.

Born on December 8, 1898, Elinor Bright was the first post-WWI Queen of Carnival and the longest-lived Rex queen at the time of her death just six months shy of her 100th birthday in 1998. Coming of age at a moment of extraordinary social change, her life had an undeniable Lady Mary “Downton Abbey-esque” quality. Raised in affluent circumstances in a St. Charles Avenue mansion and graduated from a New York boarding school, Elinor’s life was one of privilege and duty.

Her Carnival pedigree was admirable, as she was descended from

William Mehle, just the eighth man to reign as King of Carnival (1879).

Her mother, Ella Mehle, was a maid in the 1883 Rex court, and her father, Edgar Bright, was a duke in that same court. It wasn’t unusual at that time, or for many years after, for that matter, for maids and dukes in Rex courts to wed.

Elinor herself married one of the dukes in her own court, Edmund Richardson, but not until 1935, well after his graduation from the Virginia Military Institute and a stint in the Navy. Elinor and Edmund never had children but heaped love upon their nieces and nephews, explaining why Elinor’s family nickname was “Titante,” or “little aunt.”

MysTery siGnATure One mystery yet to be solved regarding Elinor’s queenship has to do with a photo shoot that took place at her home. The photographer captured her in full regalia, including crown, scepter, long mantle, and in a first for a Carnival queen, a gown with a raised hemline. But the most intriguing aspect of this series of photographs, a collection now split between the Louisiana State Museum and the Historic New Orleans Collection, is the photographer’s signature in the center of the lower margin of each print: Bedou. The pencil inscription is a bit

Elinor Bright (first from far right) and several friends ride horseback in a “preparedness” parade down St. Charles Avenue in either 1917 or 1918. The Historic New Orleans Collection, Gift of Mrs. Edmund B. Richardson, acc. no. 1993.71.79.

loopy and illegible and likely unfamiliar to nearly anyone looking at it with uninformed eyes. However, once recognition kicks in that this is the signature of Arthur P. Bedou, New Orleans’s most accomplished African American photographer, the unknown story of how these two individuals came together astounds. Bedou was the personal photographer for Booker T. Washington on his lecture tours. Did Elinor and her family know this when they invited Bedou to the family’s St. Charles Avenue home to photograph the queen of old-line Carnival? We may never know, but the series of photographs that he created of Elinor may be one of his most beautiful.

Perhaps Elinor’s most outstanding experience as Queen of Carnival was befriending a man whose national profile couldn’t have been any higher in 1920: General John J. “Black Jack” Pershing, commander of the American Expeditionary Force in Europe during the Great War. Pershing was guest of honor at Mardi Gras that year, and after addressing an enthusiastic crowd of thousands in Lafayette Square on Monday before Mardi Gras, he took in the full day’s events on Fat Tuesday, including receiving a special Rex ducal decoration at City Hall, reviewing the Rex parade from the Boston Club with Elinor, and attending the Rex ball that night at the Athenaeum,

where he was presented to Their Majesties, John F. Clark, the King of Carnival, and Elinor.

In the 1980s, the Friends of the Cabildo interviewed Elinor as part of their Oral History Project. During the interview, Elinor recalled: He was living on this private [train] car, and he had about four aides, and one was General [George C.] Marshall. I remember all the boys who were the aides used to be on their p’s and q’s. When they’d get the general back on the car and they could relax, then they’d come and join us and they could have a good time.

During the war, the Uptown street previously named Berlin Street, no longer a popular moniker due to wartime sentiment, had already been rechristened in honor of General Pershing. The general’s visit to Mardi Gras in 1920 could not have been a better way to mark Carnival’s first twentieth century comeback, painting the return of the city’s most treasured tradition with a patriotic shade it had never had before.

Wayne Phillips is a Curator specializing in Carnival and costumes for the Louisiana State Museum.

General John J. Pershing and Elinor Bright stand together in the Boston Club after reviewing the Rex parade. Photograph courtesy of Marion Bright.

heart health How to avoid ‘the big one’

By Kathy Finn

COROnaRy diSEaSE FaCtS

n

ot long after his 54th birthday, feeling healthy and in his prime, New Orleans businessman Ken Friend got the shock of his life. It happened one morning as he prepared to leave home for the jewelry store he owns on Maple Street. As he moved about the house, he suddenly felt an odd sensation in his chest and his heart began to race. “I was having trouble catching my breath,” he recalled.

His heart rate slowed in a few moments and, feeling better, Ken headed upstairs to finish getting ready. But halfway there he stopped as his heart “went crazy” again. He shouted to his wife, Nina: “We have to go to the hospital.”

The panic that Friend felt at the moment plays out somewhere in the United States every 40 seconds.

About 1.5 million people experience a heart attack or stroke each year, according to the American Heart Association. About 14 percent of heart attack sufferers die from the event.

MULtiPLE thREatS But heart attacks, during which a cardiovascular malfunction shuts off blood flow to the heart, are not the only type of coronary problem that can prove fatal. Tens of thousands of people die each year from various forms of coronary disease without ever experiencing the dreaded myocardial infarction.

“Most people think of heart problems mainly in terms of blockages in arteries that supply nourishment to the heart muscle, but many other problems arise from heart disease,” said Robert Hendel, M.D., director of the Tulane Heart and Vascular Institute.

But even a partial buildup of plaque in the arteries can reduce blood flow to tissues and produce chest

pain, or angina, along with shortness of breath and extreme fatigue, he says.

High blood pressure can also be deadly, he added.

Prolonged high blood pressure can cause the heart muscle to beat inadequately, leading to the condition known as heart failure. “The heart is simply not meeting the needs of the body and you develop shortness of breath, swelling in the legs and other symptoms,” Hendel said.

“Heart failure is the number-one reason people are admitted to hospitals in the U.S.” In Ken Friend’s case, his hospital admission came almost too late to save his life. That’s because he and his wife made the critical mistake of not calling 911 immediately after he experienced symptoms; instead, they drove to a hospital on their own. As a result, Friend not only did not receive the crucial care that emergency responders would have administered in his home, but his care was further delayed by pre-admission paperwork when he arrived at the emergency room.

“The emergency technicians could have started treating me immediately and would have alerted the best-equipped hospital that we would need to bypass the waiting room,” Friend said.

It’s hard to say whether the delay worsened his condition. Doctors told him that his left anterior descending artery was almost completely blocked.

“I understand that most people don’t live through that,” he said. The heart attack and resulting heart damage kept Friend in an intensive care unit for almost two weeks before he could even begin working toward recovery.

RE-thinKinG PREVEntiOn While coronary problems can stem from genetic

Heart disease is the leading cause of death for both men and women.

About 630,000 Americans die from heart disease each year – that’s one in four deaths.

Coronary heart disease is the most common type of heart disease, killing about 366,000 people in 2015.

Each minute, more than one person in the United States dies from a heart disease-related event.

Heart disease is the leading cause of death for people of most racial/ethnic groups in the United States, including African Americans, Hispanics, and whites. For Asian Americans or Pacific Islanders and American Indians or Alaska Natives, heart disease is second only to cancer.

Heart disease costs the United States about $200 billion each year.

This total includes the cost of health care services, medications, and lost productivity.

Sources: Centers for Disease Control and the American Heart Association.

conditions or a family history of heart disease, doctors also now analyze is cardiac calcium. cardiovascular specialists are increasingly “If a patient’s calcium score is zero, they’re at focusing on assessing patients’ particular low risk, so a person I might have put on a health risks and discussing how to avoid statin previously, now I don’t need to,” he said. heart issues that do not arise from their genes.

Hendel said this new attention to calcium Hendel noted that many people could is taking hold among cardiologists across stave off serious problems by paying closer the country who espouse the use of a nonattention to such basics as blood pressure. invasive CT (computed tomography) scan “I am taking care of a lady who has been to calculate a person’s risk of developing hospitalized four times in the last year with coronary artery disease. The scan, which heart failure,” he said. “She had severe high uses a low dose of radiation to produce an blood pressure for years and her heart got image, takes about 10 minutes to perform scarred from it.” and requires no preparation by the patient.

Hendel says blood pressure benchmarks Hendel says it is “highly reliable” and have been revised in the last two years to doctors would love to make it available to help alert people sooner to potential trouble. all patients, but he acknowledges that the While a reading above 140/90 (systolic over cost is prohibitive for some. diastolic pressure) used to be the threshold Many insurance plans will not cover the for prescribing pressure-lowering medica- scans, and paying for them out of pocket tions, the meds now may be recommended is not an option for every patient. “But it’s for someone with a reading of 130/80. With something to consider for anyone who is a wide variety of home blood pressure at some risk,” Hendel said, adding that monitoring devices on the hospitals and stand-alone market, it is easier today clinics sometimes offer the for individuals to keep an scans for as little as $99. “Even eye on their own pressure if you have no risk factors, this test can give you some and manage it through diet peace of mind,” he said. and lifestyle.

RiSK FaCtORS At the same time, doctors It’s hard to say whether High blood pressure, high LDL cholesterol are rethinking their response a calcium scan or other and cigarette smokto other key indicators, such screening measures would ing are key risk facas cholesterol levels, which have prevented Ken Friend’s tors for developing also contribute to coronary heart attack, which occurred heart disease. About half of Americans disease. New guidelines in 2016. Though he had no have at least one of lower the level of LDL, family history of heart these risk factors. or “bad,” cholesterol in a disease, he says that treatSeveral other medipatient’s blood that would ments he received for cancer cal conditions and trigger treatment with medimore than 20 years ago left lifestyle choices can cations known as statins. him with a blood sugar also put people at a higher risk for heart problem that may have But the guidelines also aim disease, including: to customize the medical become a contributing factor.

Diabetes response to elevated cholesHe has since altered his diet terol based on a patient’s and his exercise regimen, and Overweight and obesity history and risk factors. he says he feels fine.

Hendel noted, for instance, Most important of all, Poor diet that doctors are backing he has lived to see his two Physical inactivity off prescribing statins for a kids through college and to Excessive alcohol patient who has “borderline” continue enjoying his family use elevated cholesterol values and building his business.

Sources: Centers for if that patient has no other “That heart attack was a big Disease Control and known coronary risk, such one, and it made me take a the American Heart step back,” he said. “Now I as high blood pressure or Association diabetes. One of the most have my entire life back, and important factors heart that is a little bit of a miracle.”

Life-saving scan A heart scan, also known as a coronary calcium scan, is a specialized X-ray test that uses a low dose of radiation to provide pictures of your heart that can help measure calcium-containing plaque in the arteries. It can help identify possible coronary artery disease before you have symptoms. Your doctor will use your test results to determine if you need medication or lifestyle changes to reduce the risk of heart attack or other heart problems.

A heart scan may help guide treatment if you have a low to moderate risk of heart disease or if your heart disease risk isn’t clear. Your doctor can tell you if you might benefit from having a heart scan based on your risk factors.

American College of Cardiology and the American Heart Association guidelines state that a heart scan may not be recommended for: Men under age 40 and women under age 50, because it’s unlikely calcium can be detected at younger ages People who have a very low risk, because detectable calcium is highly unlikely if you don’t have a family history of heart attacks at an early age People who already have a known high risk (especially heavy smokers or those with diabetes or very high cholesterol), because the heart scan will likely not provide any additional information to guide treatment People with symptoms or a diagnosis of coronary artery disease, because the procedure won’t help doctors better understand the disease progression or risk People who already had an abnormal coronary calcium heart scan Source: The Mayo Clinic

The Menu TABLE TALK . RESTAURANT INSIDER . FOOD . LAST CALL . DINING LISTINGS

jeffery johnston photo

SNAPPER AMANDINE AT JACK ROSE

table talk

MeeT The chef MUDDY WATER SHRIMP

Jack Rose Blooms Joie de vivre at The Pontchartrain

Brian Landry made a name for himself at Borgne, a seafood restaurant in the hyatt, which pulled off the impressive trick of having a genuinely interesting menu (inspired in part by Los Isleños cuisine) capable of handling high-volume crowds.

When he broke off from BrG a few years back with his business partner emery Whalen, the pair took over the food service operations for the pontchartrain hotel as well as the thompson, a boutique hotel in nashville.

As one might expect from his time with Borgne, Landry has an especially deft touch with seafood.

by Jay Forman

It’s CarnIval tIme onCe agaIn. And should you be looking for a restaurant in which to celebrate, consider Jack Rose. With its prime time location in the Pontchartrain Hotel on the St. Charles

6 2 february 2020 myNEwORLEANS.COm

parade route, Jack Rose also possesses an ethos custom-tailored for the season.

“Jack Rose is meant to be a fun, celebratory restaurant,” Brian Landry, Chef Owner of QED

jeffery johnston photo

Hospitality, said. “I mean, we almonds as a starting point, tamahave a disco ball hanging from rind and yuzu are substituted the ceiling among the ferns in for the usual Worcestershire and the dining room. We don’t take lemon and the result is a sauce ourselves seriously, but we do take that is both lighter and brighter. the food, beverage and service “Our chef Vu Vo came up with this here seriously.” dish,” Landry said. “The Asian And, indeed, Jack Rose is a ingredients add pop to a sauce serious restaurant with both talent that is typically very rich.” and history propelling it forward.

The breakout hit off his menu The product of a two-tier evolu- though has been his “Fried Chicken tion, Jack Rose arose out of the Parmesan.” Featuring half a fried former Caribbean Room, which chicken broken down into four itself was a reboot of pieces and plated the hotel’s original fine with spicy red dining outpost. When gravy and a cloud Jack Rose, 2031 St the Pontchartrain of shaved Parm, the Charles Ave., 323-1500.

JackRoseRestaurant.com. dish also happens reopened in 2016 to Living Room open daily, much fanfare, this was to use a cornstarch dining room, D Wed-Sun, L a move calculated to batter, making it an Friday, Brunch Sun. capture nostalgia for a inadvertent darling bygone era. But much has changed of the gluten-free set. The chicken in the past few years. Since then is brined, held sous vide then QED Hospitality has spun off as fried to order. turnkey food and beverage operator For desserts, most diners default for the hotel. They revamped the to the famous “Mile High Pie,” a space and opened Jack Rose in multilayered tower of ice cream 2018, losing the stuffiness factor and meringue drizzled tableside and giving it a well-received shot with chocolate sauce. Old timers of joie de vivre. The resulting may bemoan the upgraded ingrerestaurant shines – it’s a balanced dients (the original allegedly used blend of old-school charm and proletarian K&B ice cream) but the shabby-artsy chic. dish benefits from improvements “We love taking classic Creole like real mint in the homemade ice and New Orleans-style dishes and cream. And for those looking for adding a modern twist,” Landry a more casual parade perch, the said. Take his “Shrimp Muddy full Jack Rose menu is available Waters” appetizer, inspired by a at the adjacent Bayou Bar. But dish at the “Ain’t Dere No More” stay downstairs if you want to Central City seafood hideout dine – the rooftop hotspot Hot Uglesich’s. Landry’s version swaps Tin does not offer food. brown shrimp with Royal Reds, a deep-water gulf crustacean with a texture more akin to lobster served atop midnight-black squid ink campanelle pasta. Over it goes the namesake sauce, a shrimp stock fortified with aromatics and white Off The PaRade ROuTe wine finished off with oven-dried many restaurants simplify their tomatoes and lemon zest. “This menus over mardi Gras to absorb kind of updated version of an the crush of business. To side-step older New Orleans dish is exactly some of this consider maïs Arepas, our approach to so many other a Colombian outpost just off Lee dishes here.”

Circle on Carondelet Street. Round A representative (and recom- out your overstuffed Chicharepa mended) entrée is the Gulf Snapper with a cocktail made from Amandine. Using the traditional Colombian spirits between breaks sauce of brown butter and sliced in the parades.

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myNEwORLEANS.COm february 2020 6 3

restaurant InsIder

News from the Kitchen Dab’s Bistro, Acropolis Greek Cuisine, Galaxie Tacos

by Robert Peyton

Chef Duke’s AWArD WInnInG MeAtBALLs serveD WIth spAGhettI pAstA

dab’s bIstro

aCropolIs greek CuIsIne

Chef Duke LoCicero, best known for his now-closed french Quarter Italian restaurant, Café Giovanni, has opened Dab’s Bistro, in Metairie. It’s a “new orleans bistro,” but long-time fans of LoCicero’s cooking will recognize many of the dishes on offer, and Italian cuisine is still front and center. 3401 North Hullen, Metairie; Monday – Friday 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.; Tuesday and Wednesday, 5 – 10 p.m. and Thursday – Saturday 5 p.m. until 2 a.m., 581-8511; dabsbistro.com.

Acropolis Greek Cuisine has opened a second location in New Orleans. The popular mediterranean spot joins a seemingly ever-growing number of restaurants on Freret Street. In addition to Greek standards such as gyros, souvlaki, moussaka and saganaki, the menu includes 9-inch pizzas, wraps and a number of customizable salads. 4510 Freret Street,; Monday – Friday 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. for lunch and 5 to 9 p.m. for dinner; Saturday and Sunday 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., 309-0069; acropoliscuisine.com.

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galaxIe taCos

Galaxie Tacos has opened in the Bywater serving a short list of Oaxacan and mexico City-style tacos, quesadillas and sides. The restaurant imports corn from mexico and makes their torillas by hand, daily. The restaurant touts pork that’s cooked on a vertical rotisserie for the tacos al pastor and offers a wide selection of mezcal, frozen drinks and classic cocktails. 3060 St. Claude Avenue; Sunday and Tuesday – Thursday, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m., until 11 p.m. on Friday and Saturday, 827-1443; galaxietacos.com.

jeffery johnston photo

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food

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styLeD By photoGrApheD By euGenIA uhL

Potato Salad and Parades Spuds for all occasions

by Dale Curry

I get more ComplIments for my potato salad

RecIPe

than any other dish. It’s a deep South version, I must admit, but that’s not to say I don’t like the creamy New Orleans-style with fewer ingredients.

The local spud recipe is mixed hot, more like mashed potatoes, while the key to my mother’s Memphis-style version is cooling the potatoes first to keep the main ingredient in whole pieces. I cheat a little by mashing one potato to add a creamy touch.

Either way, you’ve got the perfect side dish for anything you serve at Carnival parties. Potato salad pairs perfectly with brisket, fried chicken, gumbo and finger sandwiches. Some people even put it in their gumbo, but I prefer gumbo without mayonnaise.

Some misguided Memphis upbringing, I suppose.

I always make potato salad when my husband’s high school friend visits. We eat it for dinner and by the next morning, it has all disappeared.

But that’s not the only dish in demand on Mardi Gras. We now have Hubig pies back to go with our Popeye’s fried chicken. Our host for many parades has his personalized theme stamped on each pie. We New Orleanians are a stubborn lot. When something disappears from our diet, we find a way to get it back.

Remember Creole cream cheese? And McKenzie’s king cakes that survived the closing of McKenzie’s.

This year we’ll probably see a few Popeye’s chicken sandwiches on the streets and, yes, they go perfectly with potato salad. When they came out a few months ago, Popeye’s had to stop selling them for a while to catch up with demand. Good luck, Popeye’s. Get your fryers rollin’.

Another item that disappears quickly from a parade party buffet is the deviled eggs. You can’t make enough of those for a boisterous crowd. And peeled shrimp with cocktail sauce and toothpicks. Put a plate of those down and a tornado hits it.

I know that king cakes are everywhere you look.

But, really, how much king cake can a person eat? I figure most partiers will take king cake, chips-and-dip or crackers with some kind of cheese. So, if I’m not taking brisket, one of my regulars, I like to focus on something like stuffed celery or salad. It can be a welcome treat for carb-laden buffets. One thing for sure, whatever you take to a parade party will get eaten because everybody’s hungry during the season.

So go ahead and double this potato salad recipe.

potato salad

Ingredients 6 large russet potatoes 6 large eggs, boiled 1 medium kosher pickle, chopped 3 tablespoons pimentos or roasted red peppers, chopped 1 small onion, chopped 1 bell pepper, chopped 2 stalks celery, chopped ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 ½ teaspoon Creole seasoning ½ teaspoon garlic powder ½ teaspoon paprika ¼ teaspoon celery salt 4 tablespoons mayonnaise 1 tablespoon mustard 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon vinegar Directions 1. Boil potatoes in a large pot until fork tender. Peel when cool enough to handle. mash 1 potato with a fork. Cut remaining potatoes into ½-inch cubes and let them cool.

Save 1 egg for decorating top of potato salad and chop remaining 5.

2. Place mashed potato in bottom of a large mixing bowl.

Add cooled chopped potato and chopped eggs. Add onions, bell pepper and celery and toss.

Salad dayS Potato salad is believed to have originated in Germany as well as other parts of Europe.

Germans serve the salad hot with a different dressing.

Americans usually serve it cold or at room temperature.

3. Add remaining ingredients and toss to mix thoroughly.

Place in serving bowl. Decorate top with horizontal slices of remaining egg and thin strips of bell pepper and pimento or roasted bell peppers. Sprinkle lightly with paprika.

Serves 8 to 10 Note: To maximize nutritional value of potato salad, use red potatoes and leave the skins on.

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last Call

living the Season Parade rest

by Tim McNally

In an Instant, a CIty street Corner Is

filled with all manner of people and happenings, is transformed into a place filled with anticipation and promise. The distant wail of a siren draws everyone’s attention. The crowd settles in. The parade is imminently arriving.

This is a scene repeated hundreds of times over the Carnival Season, and we never tire of the excitement, the thrill of it all. It’s euphoric.

This year the talented team at Trenasse restaurant and bar on St. Charles Avenue, on the city’s main parade route, have created a drink that blends perfectly with the season and its trademark events. Why not carry the central theme of Carnival to its most logical and enjoyable conclusion?

The cocktail looks festive and it is.

Experienced parade watchers know well

that passing parades demand beverages. It’s one of the cherished freedoms, a reward, for being somewhere that every other sybaritic adult and all children want to be: on the main Carnival parade route in New Orleans during one of the world’s greatest celebrations.

mardi gras euphoria 1 oz. Green Chartreuse 1 oz. hendrick’s Gin 1/4 oz. Midori fresh-squeezed lemon 1 ½ oz. soda sprigs of fresh mint In a rocks glass or a go-cup, muddle mint with a splash of lemon juice.

Splash 1 ½ oz. soda. Add lemon wedge for garnish.

Trenasse, 444 St. Charles Ave. in the InterContinental Hotel, 680-7000, Trenasse.com.

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dInIng lIstIngs H= neW orLeAns MAGAzIne AWArD WInner

BywaTeR

H Pizza delicious pizza 617 Piety St., 6768482, PizzaDelicious.com. Authentic new york-style thin crust pizza is the reason to come to this affordable restaurant, that also offers excellent salads sourced from small farms and homemade pasta dishes. outdoor seating a plus. $ caRROllTON Breads on Oak Bakery/Breakfast 8640 Oak St., 324-8271, BreadsOnOak.com. Artisan bakeshop tucked away near the levee on oak st. serves breads, breakfast, sandwiches, 100 percent vegan. $ cITy PaRK café NOMa aMeriCaN 1 Collins Diboll Cir., NO Museum of Art, 482-1264, CafeNoma. com. sleek bar and café in the ground floor of museum offers a thoughtful array of snacks, sandwiches and small plates that are sure to enchant, with a kids’ menu to boot. $ cBd/waRehOuSe dISTRIcT H Bh Steak steakhouse Harrah’s Casino, 8 Canal St., 533-6111, HarrahsNewOrleans. com. Acclaimed chef john Besh reinterprets the classic steakhouse with his signature contemporary Louisiana flair. $$$$$

H Borgne seafood 601 Loyola Ave., 613-3860, BorgneRestaurant.com. Coastal Louisiana with an emphasis on Isleños cuisine (descendants of Canary Islanders who settled in st. Bernard parish) is the focus of this highvolume destination adjacent to the superdome. $$$

H cochon LouisiaNiaN fare 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 588-2123, CochonRestaurant.com. Chefs Donald Link and stephen stryjewski feature Cajun and southern cuisine. Boudin and other pork dishes reign supreme, along with Louisiana seafood and real moonshine reservations recommended. $$

H desi Vega’s Steakhouse steakhouse 628 St. Charles Ave., 523-7600, DesiVegaSteaks.com. usDA prime steaks form the base of this menu, but Italian specialties and a smattering of locally inspired seafood dishes round out the appeal. $$$ drago’s LouisiaNiaN fare Hilton Riverside Hotel, 2 Poydras St., 584-3911, DragosRestaurant.com. this favorite specializes in charbroiled oysters, a dish they invented. Great deals on fresh lobster as well. $$$$

H domenica itaLiaN The Roosevelt Hotel, 123 Baronne St., 648-6020, DomenicaRestaurant.com. Authentic, regional Italian cuisine. the menu of thin, lightly topped pizzas, artisanal salumi and cheese, and a carefully chosen selection of antipasti, pasta and entrées features locally raised products. $$$$ emeril’s LouisiaNiaN fare 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 528-9393, EmerilsRestaurants.com. the flagship of superstar chef emeril Lagasse’s culinary empire, this landmark attracts pilgrims from all over the world. $$$$$

H herbsaint LouisiaNiaN fare 701 St. Charles Ave., 524-4114, Herbsaint.com. enjoy a sophisticated cocktail before sampling chef Donald Link’s menu that melds contemporary 7 0 february 2020 myNEwORLEANS.COm

$ = AverAGe entrée prICe

$ = $5-10 $$ = $11-15 $$$ = $16-20 $$$$ = $21-25 $$$$$ = $25 & up

bistro fare with classic Louisiana cuisine. the banana brown butter tart is a favorite dessert. $$$$$

H la Boca steakhouse 870 Tchoupitoulas St., 525-8205, LaBocaSteaks.com. this Argentine steakhouse specializes in cuts of meat along with pastas and wines. specials include the provoleta appetizer and the vacio flank steak. $$$

H lüke WorLd 333 St. Charles Ave., 378-2840, LukeNewOrleans.com. Germanic specialties and french bistro classics, housemade pâtés and plateaux of cold, fresh seafood. $$$ Mother’s LouisiaNiaN fare 401 Poydras St., 523-9656, MothersRestaurant.net.Locals and tourists alike endure long lines to enjoy iconic dishes such as the ferdi poor boy and jerry’s jambalaya. Come for a late lunch to avoid the rush. $$ Mulate’s LouisiaNiaN fare 201 Julia St., 5221492, Mulates.com. Live music and dancing add to the fun at this world-famous Cajun destination. $$ Palace café WorLd 605 Canal St., 5231661, PalaceCafe.com. Cassic new orleans restaurant, the Dickie Brennan and palace Cafe team evolve traditional Creol dishes. enjoy specialty cocktails and small plates at the Black Duck Bar. $$$

H Pêche seafood 800 Magazine St., 5221744, PecheRestaurant.com. Award-winning southern-inspired seafood destination by Chef Donald Link serves whole roasted Gulf fish from its massive, wood-burning oven, and an excellent raw bar. $$$

HRed Gravy Bakery/Breakfast 125 Camp St., 561-8844, RedGravy.com. farm-to-table brunch restaurant offers a creative array of items such as Cannoli pancakes and skillet Cakes, as well as delectable sandwiches and more. homemade pastas and authentic tuscan specialties round out the menu. $$ H Restaurant august aMeriCaN 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 299-9777, RestaurantAugust.com. james Beard Awardwinning menu is based on classical techniques of Louisiana cuisine and produce with a splash of european flavor set in an historic carriage warehouse. $$$$$ Rock-N-Sake asiaN fusioN/paN asiaN 823 Fulton St., 581-7253, RockNSake. com. fresh sushi and contemporary takes on japanese favorites in an upbeat, casual setting. $$$ Ruth’s chris Steak house steakhouse Harrah’s Hotel, 525 Fulton St., 587-7099, RuthsChris.com. filet mignon, creamed spinach and potatoes au gratin are the most popular dishes at this steak institution. there are also great seafood choices and top-notch desserts. $$$$$ Sac-a-lait seafood 1051 Annunciation St., 324-3658, Sac-A-LaitRestaurant.com. Cody and sam Carroll’s shrine to Gulf Coast and Louisiana culinary heritage melds seafood, game, artisan produce, and craft libations in an ambitious menu that celebrates local and

southern cuisine. $$$$ The Grill Room aMeriCaN Windsor Court Hotel, 300 Gravier St., 522-6000, GrillRoomNewOrleans.com. Modern American cuisine with a distinctive new orleans flair, the adjacent polo Club Lounge offers live music nightly. jazz Brunch on sunday. $$$$$ Tommy’s cuisine itaLiaN 746 Tchoupitoulas St., 581-1103, TommysNewOrleans.com.

Classic Creole-Italian cuisine is the name of the game at this upscale eatery. Appetizers include the namesake oysters tommy, baked in the shell with romano cheese, pancetta and roasted red pepper. $$$$$ ceNTRal cITy café Reconcile LouisiaNa fare 1631 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 568-1157, CafeReconcile. org. Good food for a great cause, this nonprofit on the burgeoning oCh corridor helps train at-risk youth for careers in the food service industry. $$ fauBOuRG ST. JOhN

H café degas freNCh 3127 Esplanade Ave., 945-5635, CafeDegas.com. salad niçoise, hanger steak and frites are served in a lovely enclosed courtyard at this jewel of a french bistro. $$

H 1000 figs WorLd 3141 Ponce De Leon St., 301-0848, 1000Figs.com. vegetarian-friendly offshoot of the fat falafel food truck offers a healthy farm-to-table alternative to cookiecutter Middle eastern places. $$ fReNch QuaRTeR acme Oyster house LouisiaNiaN fare 724 Iberville St., 522-5973, AcmeOyster.com. known as one of the best places to eat oysters. $$

H arnaud’s LouisiaNiaN fare 813 Bienville St., 523-5433, ArnaudsRestaurant.com.

Waiters in tuxedos prepare Café Brûlot tableside at this storied Creole grande dame; live jazz during sun. brunch. $$$$$ arnaud’s Remoulade itaLiaN 309 Bourbon St., 523-0377, Remoulade.com. home of the eclectic menu of famous shrimp Arnaud, red beans and rice and poor boys as well as specialty burgers, grilled all-beef hot dogs and thin-crust pizza. $$ antoine’s LouisiaNiaN fare 713 St. Louis St., 581-4422, Antoines.com. this pinnacle of haute cuisine and birthplace of oysters rockefeller is new orleans’ oldest restaurant. (every item is à la carte, with an $11 minimum.) private dining rooms available. $$$$$ antoine’s annex speCiaLty foods 513 Royal St., 525-8045, Antoines.com/Antoines-Annex. serves french pastries, including individual baked Alaskas, ice cream and gelato, as well as panini, salads and coffee. Delivery available.

BB King’s Blues club BarBeCue 1104 Decatur St., 934-5464, BBKings.com/ new-orleans. new orleans outpost of music club named for the famed blues musician with a menu loaded with BBQ and southern specialties. Live music and late hours are a big part of the fun. $$$ Bayou Burger Burgers 503 Bourbon St., 529-4256, SportsBarNewOrleans.com.

sports bar in the thick of Bourbon street scene distinguishes its fare with choices like Crawfish Beignets and Gator Bites. $$ Bourbon house seafood 144 Bourbon St., 522-0111, BourbonHouse.com. Local seafood, featured in both classic and contemporary dishes, is the focus of this new orleans-centric destination. And yes, bourbon is offered as well. $$$ Bayona WorLd 430 Dauphine St., 525-4455, Bayona.com. Chef susan spicer’s nationally acclaimed cuisine is served in this 200-year-old cottage. Ask for a seat on the romantic patio, weather permitting. $$$$$ Brennan’s LouisiaNiaN fare 417 Royal St., 525-9711, Brennansneworleans.com.

Innovative Cerole menu borrows influences from french and spanish ancestry with modern updates and distinct seasonal offerings. $$$$ Broussard’s freNCh 819 Conti St., 581-3866, Broussards.com. Creole-french institution also offers beautiful courtyard seating. $$$$

H cane & Table gastropuB 1113 Decatur St., 581-1112, CaneAndTableNola.com. open late, this chef-driven rustic colonial cuisine with rum and “proto-tiki” cocktails make this a fun place to gather. $$ chartres house itaLiaN 601 Chartres St., 586-8383, ChartresHouse.com. this iconic french Quarter bar serves terrific Mint juleps and Gin fizzes in its picturesque courtyard and balcony settings. Also famous for its fried green tomatoes and other local favorite dishes. $$$ court of Two Sisters LouisiaNiaN fare 613 Royal St., 522-7261, CourtOfTwoSisters.com. the historic environs make for a memorable outdoor dining experience. the famous daily jazz Brunch buffet and classic Creole dishes sweeten the deal. $$$$$ criollo LouisiaNiaN fare Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 681-4444, CriolloNola.com. next to the famous Carousel Bar in the historic Monteleone hotel, Criollo represents an amalgam of the various Louisiana cultures, with a contemporary twist. $$$ crazy lobster seafood 500 Port of New Orleans Place, Suite 83, 569-3380, TheCrazyLobster.com. Boiled seafood and festive atmosphere come together at this seafood-centric destination overlooking the Mississippi river. outdoor seating a plus. $$$ creole cookery seafood 508 Toulouse St., Suite C110, 524-9632, NewOrleansCreoleCookery.com. Crowdpleasing destination in the french Quarter offers an expansive menu of Creole favorites and specialty cocktails served with new orleans flair. $$$ deanie’s Seafood seafood 841 Iberville St., 581-1316, Deanies.com. Louisiana seafood, baked, broiled, boiled and fried is the name of the game. try the barbecue shrimp or towering seafood platters. $$$

H dickie Brennan’s Bourbon house seafood 144 Bourbon St., 522-0111, BourbonHouse.com. Classic Creole dishes, such as redfish on the halfshell, and an oyster Bar. Its extensive bourbon menu will please

aficionados. $$$$ dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse steakhouse 716 Iberville St., 522-2467, DickieBrennansSteakhouse.com. nationally recognized steakhouse serves usDA prime steaks and local seafood. validated parking next door. $$$$

H doris Metropolitan steakhouse 620 Chartres St., 267-3500, DorisMetropolitan.com. Innovative steakhouse plays with expectations and succeeds with modernist dishes like their Classified Cut and Beetroot supreme. $$$$ el Gato Negro WorLd 81 French Market Place, 525-9752, ElGatoNegroNola.com.

Central Mexican cuisine along with handmuddled mojitos and margaritas made with freshly squeezed juice. A weekend breakfast menu is an additional plus. $$ Galatoire’s LouisiaNiaN fare 209 Bourbon St., 525-2021, Galatoires.com. friday lunches are a new orleans tradition at this worldfamous french-Creole grand dame. tradition counts for everything here, and the crabmeat sardou is delicious. note: jackets required for dinner and all day sun. $$$$$ Galatoire’s 33 Bar & Steak steakhouse 215 Bourbon St., 335-3932, Galatoires33BarAndSteak.com. steakhouse offshoot of the venerable Creole grande dame offers hand-crafted cocktails and classic steakhouse fare and inspired dishes. reservations accepted. $$$

H Gw fins seafood 808 Bienville St., 581-FINS (3467), GWFins.com. owners Gary

Wollerman and twice chef of the year tenney flynn provide dishes at their seasonal peak. on a quest for unique variety, menu is printed daily. $$$$$

Chartres St., 568-1885, Muriels.com. enjoy local classics while dining in the courtyard bar or any other room in this labyrinthine, rumored-to-be-haunted establishment. $$$$

house of Blues LouisiaNiaN fare 225 Decatur St., 310-4999, HouseOfBlues.com/ NewOrleans. Good menu complements music in the main room. World-famous Gospel Brunch every sunday. patio seating available. $$

Napoleon house itaLiaN 500 Chartres St., 524-9752, NapoleonHouse.com. originally built in 1797 as a respite for napoleon, this family-owned european-style café serves local favorites gumbo, jambalaya and muffulettas.

A sazerac or pimm’s Cup are perfect accompaniments. $

Irene’s cuisine itaLiaN 539 St. Philip St., 529-8881. Long waits at the lively piano bar are part of the appeal of this Creole-Italian favorite beloved by locals. try the oysters Irene and crabmeat gratin appetizers. $$$$ K-Paul’s louisiana Kitchen LouisiaNiaN fare 416 Chartres St., 596-2530, ChefPaul. com/KPaul. paul prudhomme’s landmark restaurant helped introduce Cajun food to the nation. Lots of seasoning and bountiful offerings, along with reserved seating, make this a destination for locals and tourists alike. $$$$

H Kingfish seafood 337 Charters St., 5985005, KingfishNewOrleans.com. regionally inspired seafood dishes with carefully sourced ingredients and southern influence is the focus at this chef-driven french Quarter establishment. $$$ le Bayou seafood 208 Bourbon St., 5254755, LeBayouRestaurant.com. Blackened redfish and shrimp ya-ya are a just a few of the choices at this seafood-centric destination on Bourbon street. $$$ Muriel’s Jackson Square itaLiaN 801

NOla LouisiaNiaN fare 534 St. Louis St., 522-6652, EmerilsRestaurants.com/NolaRestaurant. emeril’s more affordable eatery, featuring cedar-plank-roasted redfish; private dining. $$$$$ Oceana Grill seafood 739 Conti St., 5256002, OceanaGrill.com. Gumbo, poor boys and barbecue shrimp are served at this kidfriendly seafood destination. $$ Orleans Grapevine wine Bar and Bistro gastropuB 720 Orleans Ave., 523-1930, OrleansGrapevine.com. Wine is the muse at this bistro, which offers vino by the flight, glass and bottle. A classic menu with an emphasis on local cuisine. $$$

H Patrick’s Bar Vin gastropuB 730 Bienville St., 200-3180, PatricksBarVin.com. this oasis of a wine bar offers terrific selections by the bottle and glass. small plates are served as well. $$ Pier 424 seafood 424 Bourbon st., 309-1574, Pier424SeafoodMarket.com. seafood-centric restaurant offers long menu of traditional new orleans fare augmented by unusual twists like

“Cajun-Boiled” Lobster. $$$ Port of call Burgers 838 Esplanade Ave., 523-0120, PortOfCallNola.com. It is all about the big, meaty burgers and giant baked potatoes in this popular bar/restaurant – unless you’re cocktailing only, then it’s all about the Monsoons. $$

H Restaurant R’evolution itaLiaN 777 Bienville St., 553-2277, RevolutionNola. com. An opulent place that combines the local flavors of chef john folse with the cosmopolitan influence of chef rick tramonto.

Chef de cuisine jana Billiot and executive sous chef Gabriel Beard are in charge of day-today operations, which include house-made charcuterie, pastries, pastas and more. $$$$$ Red fish Grill seafood 115 Bourbon St., 5981200, RedFishGrill.com. this vibrant, seafoodcentric polished-casual landmark delivers innivative twists on casual new orleans seasfood, including local favorites BBQ oysters and double chocolate bread pudding. $$$ Rib Room aMeriCaN Omni Royal Orleans Hotel, 621 St. Louis St., 529-7046, RibRoomNewOrleans.com. old World elegance, house classic cocktails and Anthony spizale’s broad menu of prime rib, stunning seafood and on sundays a jazz brunch. $$$ Richard fiske’s Martini Bar & Restaurant LouisiaNiaN fare 301 Dauphine St., 5860972, RichardFiskes.com. just a few steps off of Bourbon street is this relaxing bar featuring an innovative menu with dishes like Crawfish, jalapeno-and-Bacon Mac and Cheese garnished with fried oysters. Live music a

myNEwORLEANS.COm february 2020 7 1

plus. $$$ Royal house LouisiaNiaN fare 441 Royal St., 528-2601, RoyalHouseRestaurant.com. sat and sun. poor boys, jambalaya and shrimp Creole are some of the favorites served here.

Weekend breakfast and an oyster bar add to the crowd-pleasing appeal. $$$ SoBou LouisiaNiaN fare 310 Chartres St., 552-4095, SoBouNola.com. there is something for everyone at this “Modern Creole saloon.”

Decidedly unstuffy with an emphasis on craft cocktails and wines by the glass. everything from $1 pork cracklins to an extravagant foie gras burger on an accomplished yet eclectic menus. $$

H Tableau LouisiaNiaN fare 616 S. Peter St., 934-3463, TableauFrenchQuarter.com. Gulf seafood such as redfish Bienville and classic Creole brunch dishes like eggs hussard are the highlights of this Dickie Brennan restaurant that shares space with Le petite théâtre. $$$

H The Bistreaux LouisiaNiaN fare New Orleans Maison Dupuy Hotel, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000, MaisonDupuy.com/dining.html.

Dishes ranging from the casual (truffle mac and cheese) to the upscale (tuna tasting trio) are served in an elegant courtyard. $$ The Bombay club LouisiaNiaN fare Prince Conti Hotel, 830 Conti St., 577-2237, TheBombayClub.com. popular martini bar with plush British décor features live music during the week and late dinner and drinks on weekends. nouveau Creole menu includes items such as Bombay drum. $$$$ The Pelican club aMeriCaN 312 Exchange

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Place, 523-1504, PelicanClub.com. serves an eclectic mix of hip food, from the seafood “martini” to clay-pot barbecued shrimp and a trio of duck. three dining rooms available. $$$$$

H Tujague’s LouisiaNiaN fare 823 Decatur St., 525-8676, TujaguesRestaurant.com. for more than 150 years this landmark restaurant has been offering Creole cuisine. favorites include a nightly six-course table d’hôté menu featuring a unique beef brisket with Creole sauce. $$$$$ GaRdeN dISTRIcT commander’s Palace LouisiaNiaN fare 1403 Washington Ave., 899-8221, CommandersPalace.com. the grande dame is going strong under the auspices of james Beard Award-winner chef tory Mcphail. jazz Brunch is a great deal. $$$$ district donuts Sliders Brew aMeriCaN 2209 Magazine Street, 570-6945, DonutsAndSliders.com. Creative sliders (hello, pork belly) and super-creative donuts (think root beer float) are the hallmarks of this nextgeneration café. $

orleans steakhouse. $$$

tomatoes and roasted duck. $

MeTaIRIe H andrea’s Restaurant itaLiaN 3100 19th St., 834-8583, AndreasRestaurant.com. osso buco and homemade pastas in a setting that’s both elegant and intimate; off-premise catering. $$$

deanie’s Seafood seafood 1713 Lake Ave., 831-4141, Deanies.com. Louisiana seafood, baked, broiled, boiled and fried, is the name of the game. try the barbecue shrimp or towering seafood platters. $$$

acme Oyster house LouisiaNiaN fare 3000 Veterans Blvd., 309-4056, AcmeOyster. com. known as one of the best places to eat oysters. $$ austin’s LouisiaNiaN fare 5101 W. Esplanade Ave., 888-5533, AustinsNo.com.

Mr. ed’s upscale bistro serves contemporary Creole fare, including seafood and steaks. $$$ Boulevard american Bistro aMeriCaN 4241 Veterans Memorial Blvd., 889-2301. Classic American cuisine including steaks, chops and more is augmented by regional favorites like Boulevard oysters at this Metairie bistro. $$$ café B aMeriCaN 2700 Metairie Road, 9344700, cafeB.com. ralph Brennan offers new American bistro fare with a Louisiana twist at this family-friendly neighborhood spot. $$$

hoshun Restaurant asiaN fusioN/paN asiaN 1601 St. Charles Ave., 302-9716, HoshunRestaurant.com. A wide variety of Asian cuisines, primarily dishes culled from China, japan, thailand and Malaysia. private dining rooms available. $$

caffe! caffe! aMeriCaN 3547 N. Hullen St., 267-9190. & 4301 Clearview Parkway, 885-4845. CaffeCaffe.com healthy, refreshing meal options, and gourmet coffee and espresso drinks create a tasteful retreat for Metairie diners at a reasonable price. $

H Mr. John’s Steakhouse steakhouse

crabby Jack’s LouisiaNiaN fare 428 Jefferson Highway, 833-2722, CrabbyJacksNola.com. outpost of jacques-Imo’s. famous for its fried seafood and poor boys including fried green

2111 St. Charles Ave., 679-7697, MrJohnsSteakhouse.com. Wood paneling, white tile and usDA prime Beef served sizzling in butter are the hallmarks of this classic new

don’s Seafood seafood 4801 Veterans Memorial Blvd., 889-1550, DonsSeafoodOnline.com. Metairie outpost of historic local seafood chain that dates from 1934. features an array of Cajun and seafood classics like their original ‘jacked up’ oysters and seafood platters. Don’t miss their happy hour specials. $$$ drago’s LouisiaNiaN fare 3232 N. Arnoult Road, 888-9254, DragosRestaurant.com. this favorite specializes in charbroiled oysters, a dish they invented. Great deals on fresh lobster as well. $$$$ Mr. ed’s Seafood and Italian Restaurant seafood 1001 Live Oak St., 838-0022, AustinsNo.com. neighborhood restaurant specializes in seafood and Italian offerings such as stuffed eggplant and bell pepper. fried seafood and sandwiches make it a good stop for lunch. $$ Ruth’s chris Steak house steakhouse 3633 Veterans Blvd., 888-3600, RuthsChris. com. filet mignon, creamed spinach and potatoes au gratin are the most popular dishes at this steak institution, and great seafood choices and top-notch desserts. $$$$$ Vincent’s Italian cuisine itaLiaN 4411 Chastant St., 885-2984, Metairie, VicentsItalianCuisine.com. snug Italian boîte

packs them in, yet manages to remain intimate at the same time. the cannelloni is a house specialty. $$$ Mid-City

H crescent city Steaks steakhouse 1001 N. Broad St., 821-3271, CrescentCitySteaks.com. one of the classic new orleans steakhouses. steaks, sides and drinks are what you get. $$$$ five happiness asiaN fusioN/paN asiaN 3605 S. Carrollton Ave., 482-3935, FiveHappiness.com. this longtime Chinese favorite offers up an extensive menu including its beloved mu shu pork and house-baked duck. $$ Gracious Bakery + café Bakery/Breakfast 1000 S. Jeff Davis Parkway, Suite 100, 301-3709, GraciousBakery.com.Boutique bakery offers small-batch coffee, baked goods, individual desserts and sandwiches on breads made in-house. Catering options available. $

H Katie’s Restaurant and Bar LouisiaNiaN fare 3701 Iberville St., 488-6582, KatiesInMidCity.com. Creative poor boys, local dishes such as gumbo and sunday brunch make this a neighborhood favorite. $$

H liuzza’s itaLiaN 3636 Bienville St., 4829120, Liuzzas.com. Classic neighborhood joint serves favorites like the “frenchuletta,” stuffed artichokes and andouille gumbo. kid’s menu offered. $$

H Mandina’s LouisiaNiaN fare 3800 Canal St., 482-9179, MandinasRestaurant.com. though the ambiance is more upscale, the food and seafood dishes make dining here a

new orleans experience. $$

H Mona’s café WorLd 3901 Banks St., 4827743. Middle eastern specialties such as baba ganuj, beef or chicken shawarma, falafel and gyros. the lentil soup and desserts, such as sticky sweet baklava, round out the menu. $

H MoPho asiaN fusioN/paN asiaN 514 City Park Ave., 482-6845, MoPhoNola.com. vietnamese cuisine meets southern Louisiana in this upscale casual hybrid by chef Michael Gulotta. Mix-and-match pho and an interesting poor boy menu rounds out the appeal. $$$ Parkway Bakery and Tavern aMeriCaN 538 Hagan Ave., 482-3047, ParkwayPoorBoys. com. featured on national tv and having served poor boys to presidents, it stakes a claim to some of the best sandwiches in town. their french fry version with gravy and cheese is a classic at a great price. $ Ralph’s On The Park LouisiaNaiaN fare 900 City Park Ave., 488-1000, RalphsOnThePark. com. A modern interior and contemporary Creole dishes such as City park salad, turtle soup, barbecue Gulf shrimp and good cocktails. $$$

H Toups’ Meatery LouisiaNiaN fare 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 252-4999, ToupsMeatery. com. Charcuterie, specialty cocktails and an exhaustive list of excellent à la carte sides make this restaurant a carnivore’s delight. $$$ MulTIPle lOcaTIONS café du Monde Bakery/Breakfast CafeDuMonde.com. this new orleans institution has been serving fresh café au lait, rich hot chocolate and positively addictive

beignets since 1862 in the french Market 24/7. $ cc’s coffee house Bakery/Breakfast CCsCoffee.com. Coffeehouse specializing in coffee, espresso drinks and pastries. $ copeland’s LouisiaNiaN fare CopelandsofNewOrleans.com. Al Copeland’s namesake chain includes favorites such as shrimp Ducky. popular for lunch. $$ little Tokyo asiaN fusioN/paN asiaN LittleTokyoNola.com. Multiple locations of this popular japanese sushi and hibachi chain make sure that there’s always a specialty roll within easy reach. $$ Martin wine cellar aMeriCaN MartinWineCellar.com. Wine by the glass or bottle to go with daily lunch specials, burgers, soups, salads and deli-style sandwiches. $ Mr. ed’s Oyster Bar & fish house seafood MrEdsRestaurants.com/oyster-bar.A seafood lover’s paradise offers an array of favorites like shrimp Creole, crawfish etouffée, blackened redfish and more. A raw bar featuring gulf oysters both charbroiled and raw. $$$ Reginelli’s Pizzeria pizza Reginellis.com. pizzas, pastas, salads, fat calzones and lofty focaccia sandwiches are at locations all over town. $$

H Ruby Slipper café Bakery/Breakfast TheRubySlipperCafe.net. homegrown chain specializes in breakfast, lunch and brunch dishes with unique local twists such as bananas foster french toast and barbecue

shrimp and grits. $$ Theo’s Pizza TheosPizza.com. the crackercrisp crust pizzas are complemented by a broad assortment of toppings with local ingredients at cheap prices. $$ Zea’s Rotisserie and Grill aMeriCaN ZeaRestaurants.com. Drawing from a wide range of worldly influences, this popular spot serves a variety of grilled items, appetizers, salads, side dishes, seafood, pasta and other entrées. Catering services available. $$$ RIVeRBeNd

H Boucherie LouisiaNiaN fare 1506 S. Carrollton Ave., 862-5514, Boucherie-Nola. com. serving contemporary southern food with an international angle, chef nathaniel zimet offers excellent ingredients presented simply. $$ Brigtsen’s LouisiaNiaN fare 723 Dante St., 861-7610, Brigtsens.com. Chef frank Brigtsen’s nationally famous Creole cuisine makes this cozy cottage a true foodie destination. $$$$$

Hcarrollton Market aMeriCaN 8132 Hampson St., 252-9928, CarrolltonMarket. com. Modern southern cuisine manages to be both fun and refined at this tasteful boîte. $$$ Upper 9th Ward St. Roch Market LouisiaNiaN fare 2381 St. Claude Ave., 615-6541, StRochMarket.com. historic st. Claude Marketplace with open dining space houses a broad collection of independent eateries including craft cocktails and more. $$ uPTOwN

myNEwORLEANS.COm february 2020 7 3

audubon clubhouse aMeriCaN 6500 Magazine St., 212-5282, AudubonInstitute. org. B, A kid-friendly menu with local tweaks and a casually upscale sandwich and salad menu. $$ Bouligny Tavern gastropuB 3641 Magazine St., 891-1810, BoulignyTavern.com. Carefully curated small plates, inventive cocktails and select wines are the focus of this stylish offshoot of john harris’s nationally acclaimed Lilette. $$ camellia Grill aMeriCaN 626 S. Carrollton Ave., 309-2679. A venerable diner whose essential character has remained intact and many of the original waiters have returned.

Credit cards are now accepted. $ casamento’s LouisiaNiaN fare 4330 Magazine St., 895-9761, CasamentosRestaurant.com. the family-owned restaurant has shucked oysters and fried seafood since 1919; closed during summer and for all major holidays. $$ clancy’s LouisiaNiaN fare 6100 Annunciation St., 895-1111, ClancysNewOrleans.com. their Creole-inspired menu has been a favorite of locals for years. $$$

H coquette freNCh 2800 Magazine St., 2650421, CoquetteNola.com. the food is french in inspiration and technique, with added imagination from the chefs. $$$ dick and Jenny’s LouisiaNiaN fare 4501 Tchoupitoulas St., 894-9880, DickAndJennys. com. A funky cottage serving Louisiana comfort food with flashes of innovation. $$$$

H Gautreau’s LouisiaNiaN fare 1728 Soniat St., 899-7397, GautreausRestaurant.

7 4 february 2020 myNEwORLEANS.COm

com. upscale destination serves refined interpretations of classics.

H la crêpe Nanou freNCh 1410 Robert St., 899-2670, LaCrepeNanou.com. Classic french bistro fare, including terrific moules and decadent dessert crêpes, are served nightly at this neighborhood institution. $$$ la Petite Grocery freNCh 4238 Magazine St., 891-3377, LaPetiteGrocery.com. elegant dining in a convivial atmosphere. the menu is heavily french-inspired with an emphasis on technique. $$$

recommended. $$$

upscale dishes peppering the menu. $$$

Pizza domenica pizza 4933 Magazine St., 301-4978, PizzaDomenica.com. A pizza centric spinoff of the popular restaurant Domenica brings neapolitan-style pies to uptown. excellent salads and charcuterie boards are offered as well. $$

Vincent’s Italian cuisine itaLiaN 7839 St. Charles Ave., 866-9313, VicentsItalianCuisine. com. snug Italian boîte packs them in yet manages to remain intimate at the same time. the cannelloni is a house specialty. $$$

H Shaya WorLd 4213 Magazine St., 8914213, ShayaRestaurant.com. james Beard Award-winning menu pays homage to Israel at this contemporary Israeli hotspot. $$$

lilette freNCh 3637 Magazine St., 895-1636, LiletteRestaurant.com. Chef john harris’ innovative menu draws discerning diners to this highly regarded bistro. Desserts are wonderful as well. $$$$$

H The company Burger Burgers 4600 Freret St., 267-0320, TheCompanyBurger.com.

Custom-baked butter-brushed buns and freshground beef patties make all the difference at this excellent burger hotspot. Draft beer and craft cocktails round out the appeal. $

H Magasin asiaN fusioN/paN asiaN 4201 Magazine St., 896-7611, MagasinCafe.com. pho, banh mi and vegetarian options are offered at this attractive and budget-friendly vietnamese restaurant. Café sua da is available as well. $

The delachaise gastropuB 3442 St. Charles Ave., 895-0858, TheDelaichaise.com. Cuisine elevated to the standards of the libations is the draw at this lively wine bar and gastropub. food is grounded in french bistro fare with eclectic twists. $$

Pascal’s Manale itaLiaN 1838 Napoleon Ave., 895-4877, PascalsManale.com. A neighborhood favorite since 1913 and the place to go for the creation of barbecued shrimp. Its oyster bar serves freshly shucked Louisiana oysters and the Italian specialties and steaks are also solid. $$$$

H upperline aMeriCaN 1413 Upperline St., 891-9822, Upperline.com. Consummate hostess joAnn Clevenger presents this nationally heralded favorite. the oft-copied fried green tomatoes with shrimp remoulade originated here. $$$$

H Patois WorLd 6078 Laurel St., 895-9441, PatoisNola.com. french food, with influences from across the Mediterranean as well as the American south, all filtered through the talent of chef Aaron Burgau. reservations

waRehOuSe dISTRIcT lucy’s WorLd 710 Tchoupitoulas St., 5238995, LucysRetiredSurfers.com. Island-themed oasis with a menu that cherry-picks tempting dishes from across the globe’s tropical latitudes. popular for lunch, and the after-work crowds stay into the wee hours. $

H wayfare aMeriCaN 4510 Freret St., 3090069, WayfareNola.com. Creative sandwiches and southern-inspired small plates. $$ ye Olde college Inn aMeriCaN 3000 S. Carrollton Ave., 866-3683, CollegeInn1933. com. serves up classic fare, albeit with a few

If you feel that a restaurant has been misplaced, please email managing Editor Ashley mcLellan at Ashley@myNewOrleans.com

DINING & ENTERTAINMENT

SPONSORED

Seaworthy

Antoine's

Breads on Oak

630 Carondelet St., New Orleans (504) 930-3071 SeaworthyNola.com

713 St. Louis St. New Orleans (504) 581-4422 Antoines.com

8640 Oak St., New Orleans (504) 324-8271 BreadsOnOak.com

Let the good times roll into Seaworthy, steps away from all of the Carnival action. That means endless libations and dishes perfect for the parade route – every weekend from 11 a.m. – 3 p.m.

Antoine’s World Renowned French Creole Cuisine, impeccable service and 180 year historical atmosphere create an unmatched French Quarter dining experience. Timeless Favorites and Fresh Classics are served our 14 themed dining rooms and the Hermes Bar. Open For Lunch, Dinner and Sunday Jazz Brunch. Reservations recommended.

Started in 2012, Breads On Oak has just opened its second location in the CBD. Known for its popular plant-based breakfasts and lunches, like Pumpkin Cheddar Biscuit or Big Daddy Burger to the maple-glazed walnut cinnamon rolls and sourdough Old World breads. Always organic and 100% plant-based.

Briquette

Elle- J's Lakeview

Galatoire’s “33” Bar & Steak

701 South Peters, New Orleans (504) 302-7496 BriquetteNOLA.com

900 Harrison Ave. Lakeview (504) 459-2262 ElleJsLakeview.com

215 Bourbon St., New Orleans (504) 335-3932 Galatoires33BarandSteak.com

Our newest Executive Chef, Guy Sockrider will create a coastal contemporary menu and will utilize a large charcoal grill to highlight fresh fish and seafood. There will also be handcrafted cocktails and well curated wine list as well as small plates perfect for sharing.

Opened in October of 2019, serving CreoleItalian and a Sunday brunch addition to the full menu.Visit during Happy Hour Tuesday thru Fridays from 3 to 6 p.m. for drink and bites specials! New Orleans natives, Jason Serpas and Chef Ludovic "Vic" Gerrets, have a combined 50 years experience in the restaurant industry.

Whether stopping in for a short visit or a comfortable stay, Galatoire's "33" Bar & Steak offers classic, hand-crafted cocktails and the finest wines and spirits, alongside USDA prime steaks from the dinner menu and lighter fare at Bar "33".

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SPONSORED

Katie's

La Petite Grocery

225 Chartres St., New Orleans (504) 218.8533 JustineNola.com

3701 Iberville St., New Orleans (504) 488-6582 KatiesInMidCity.com

4238 Magazine St., New Orleans (504) 891-3377 LaPetiteGrocery.com

Justine is a Parisian-style brasserie by husband-and-wife team Justin and Mia Devillier. Combining the sophistication of a brasserie with the playfulness of the French Quarter, Justine honors the technique and simplicity of French classics in a bustling, multi-roomed restaurant with vibrant decor and grand presentation.

Katie's is known as one of New Orleans' favorite neighborhood restaurants. Serving daily specials and menu favorites like Katie's homemade crab cakes topped with lump crabmeat and remoulade. Open for lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday and Sunday brunch.

Owned by husband-and-wife team Justin and Mia Devillier, La Petite Grocery pays homage to its century-old home that’s acted as a cornerstone of the community throughout the years. In the kitchen, Chef Justin Devillier puts a creative spin on traditional New Orleans cuisine with dishes like Turtle Bolognese and Blue Crab Beignets.

Mr. Ed’s Restaurant

N.O. Creole Cookery

Orleans Grapevine

910 West Esplanade Ave. Kenner 1001 Live Oak, Metairie (504) 463-3030 (504) 838-0022 MrEdsRestaurants.com

510 Toulouse St., New Orleans (504) 524-9632 NewOrleansCreoleCookery.com

720 Orleans Ave., New Orleans (504) 523-1930 OrleansGrapevine.com

Savor authentic Creole dishes prepared by chef John Trinh, formerly of Eleven 79.

Delight in traditional dishes such as gumbo, shrimp Creole and crawfish etouffée, as well as an oyster happy hour Monday-Friday, 3 p.m. - 6 p.m. Enjoy handcrafted cocktails and signature drinks in the historic French Quarter.

Enjoy true New Orleans atmosphere in a beautiful, tropical courtyard. Orleans Grapevine serves high quality cuisine and one of the largest selections of wine by the bottle or by the glass. Don't miss the popular Bacon Happy Hour, where you'll enjoy free bacon with your cocktails and wine. 4-6 p.m. and 10 p.m. to midnight daily.

Mr. Ed’s has been a local favorite since 1989, offering home-style cooking, Italian cuisine, seafood favorites, and Mr. Ed’s Famous Fried Chicken. Open MondaySaturday for lunch and dinner. Daily lunch specials and catering are available as well.

Mr. Ed also oversees Austin’s, Mr. Ed’s Oyster Bar & Fish House and The Pearl Room.

myneworleans.com february 2020 7 7

DINING & ENTERTAINMENT

Justine

DINING & ENTERTAINMENT

SPONSORED

Parkway

Pascal's Manale

Ralph's on the Park

538 Hagan Ave., New Orleans (504) 482-3047 ParkwayPoorBoys.com

1838 Napoleon Ave., New Orleans (504) 895-4877 PascalsManale.com

900 City Park Ave., New Orleans (504) 488-1000 RalphsOnThePark.com

Parkway can now take your phone orders no matter how busy or long the line is.

Our new call in kitchen makes it easy to call, pickup, and enjoy some of the best poorboys in town! Serving fried Louisiana Oysters on Mondays and Wednesdays.

Now proudly owned and operated by the Ray Brandt Family. Pascal’s Manale is Home of The Original B-B-Q Shrimp.

Visit the old-time oyster bar offering raw oysters on the half shell. Enjoy fresh seafood, Italian dishes, delicious steaks, cocktails and a great selection of wines.

Ralph’s on the Park celebrates their Sweet 16th Birthday with a 16-week Celebration.

Diners can enjoy a $16 2-Course Lunch Tuesday-Friday, through April 19, along with a $6 Birthday Ginger 75 cocktail at lunch.

Red Gravy

Riccobono's Peppermill

Restaurant R'evolution

125 Camp St., New Orleans (504) 561-8844 RedGravyCafe.com

(504) 455-2266 RiccobonosPeppermill.com

777 Bienville St., New Orleans (504) 553-2277 RevolutionNola.com

A crowd favorite for breakfast or lunch. Chef Roseann’s Shrimp & Grits are to die for! Gulf shrimp, sausage, lots of love, with the best local organic grits will fill you right up! Open Wednesday through Monday from 8am until 2pm. Reservations recommended.

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The concept of the Peppermill was to bring classic New Orleans dishes as well as Riccobono family Italian recipes to the city in a comfortable, casual atmosphere.

Now, three generations later, that tradition continues to live on.

Chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto present imaginative reinterpretations of classic Creole cuisine in a setting that blends antique and contemporary details of grand French Quarter homes. Serving Lunch Fridays, Dinner nightly, Sunday Jazz Brunch and Happy Hour at Bar R’evolution.

SPONSORED

True Food Kitchen

124 Lake Marina Ave., New Orleans (504) 513-2670 SalaNola.com

5015 Magazine St., New Orleans (504) 267-7612 TitosCevichePisco.com

801 St. Charles Ave, New Orleans 504-558-3900 TrueFoodKitchen.com

Enjoy breakfast with homemade Bloody Marys and Mimosas by the carafe on Saturdays and Sundays starting at 8 a.m. Try Traditional or Crab Cakes Benedict, Eggs Sardou, Omelets, or something sweet like Zeppole or French Toast. Weekdays open for lunch at 11 a.m., with happy hour 4 p.m. to 6 p.m.

Dinner nightly with great seafood, steaks, and burgers, and late-night hours until midnight Thursday through Saturday. Closed Monday.

Intimate Peruvian restaurant in uptown New Orleans with premier handcrafted cocktails, heart-healthy Peruvian wine, a variety of melt in your mouth ceviches, tiraditos, savory meat and seafood.

True Food Kitchen is an award-wining restaurant brand founded by integrative medicine expert, Dr. Andrew Weil. The brand’s seasonal menu is guided by the principles of the anti-inflammatory food pyramid emphasizing wholesome, simple ingredients with simple preparations to highlight the natural health benefits and flavors of each ingredient.

DINING & ENTERTAINMENT

Tito's Ceviche and Pisco

Sala

myneworleans.com february 2020 7 9

SPONSORED

Auraluz 4408 Shores Dr., Metairie (504) 888-3313 ShopAuraluz.com

Bleu Blow Dry 5228 Magazine St., New Orleans (504) 325-5625 701 Metairie Rd. Ste.112-2A, Metairie (504) 309-5999 BLEUaBlowdryBar.com

LAMPE BERGER ... the perfect gift! It’s both decorative and functional. Made in France for over 120 years, each Lampe Berger cleanses, purifies and fragrances the air with over 50 fragrances to choose from ... all available at AURALUZ.

Give the gift of fabulous Hair and Makeup for Valentine’s Day. BLEU Gift Cards are money to “blow” but definitely not wasted. Can be purchased for any monetary amount desired and applied towards the purchase of services, products and even gratuity.

Chateau Drugs & Gifts 3544 W. Esplanade Ave. S., Metairie (504) 889-2300 ChateauDrugsRx.com

Diamonds Direct 3230 Severn Ave., Metairie (504) 383-3900 DiamondsDirect.com

Come in and check out our Mardi Gras gear! An array of accessories that will help to make you stand out this Carnival season. Sequin fanny packs & backpacks, $32. Scarves, $12. Tops, $39.

This Valentine’s Day, celebrate your loved one with a diamond bangle, offered in multiple colors and carat weights. Make it a Valentine’s Day to remember with a special gift from Diamonds Direct.

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SPONSORED

Etre Cosmetic Dermatology & Laser Center 1224 St. Charles Ave., New Orleans (Entrance across from Delmonico) (504) 227-3873 EtreCosmeticDerm.com Drs. Coleman and Donofrio specialize in non- and minimally-invasive cosmetic dermatologic procedures including facial injectables, laser treatments, body contouring, and cellulite reduction. Now offering a February Special for a syringe of lip filler and a bottle of Latisse for $625 ($150 savings). Call today for your free consultation!

Home Malone 629 N Carrollton Ave., Mid-City (504) 324-8352 4610 Magazine St., Uptown (504) 766-6148 HomeMalonenola.com Mardi Gras Ladder Door Hanger. Waterproof and fade proof print on a plastic board of the digital Mardi Gras Ladder illustration by New Orleans' artist Kristin Malone. $48.

Historic New Orleans Collection 520 Royal St., New Orleans (504) 523-4662 HNOC.org/shop This solid sterling silver cuff by the local contemporary jewelry design team at Alison Ford Metals is embellished with five garnet stones.

Measures 6.25” by 1.5” $650. Tuesday to Saturday 9:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. and Sunday 10:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.

Marriott International 614 Canal St., New Orleans (504) 525-6500 JWMarriottNewOrleans.com Delight in authentic experiences to enrich your passions this Valentine’s Day. Enjoy breakfast for two each day, a bottle of sparkling wine, chocolate covered strawberries, complimentary parking, plus a late check-out. Use promotional code HON when making your online reservation.

Perlis 6070 Magazine St., New Orleans 600 Decatur, French Quarter 1281 N Causeway Blvd., Mandeville 8366 Jefferson Hwy., Baton Rouge (504) 895-8661 Perlis.com Featuring the iconic crawfish logo embroidery, the new PERLIS Mardi Gras spaced stripe performance polo makes the perfect gift for your Valentine. He will look and feel festive this carnival season in this lightweight polo.

myneworleans.com february 2020 8 1

SPONSORED

Pontchartrain Hotel 2031 St. Charles Ave., New Orleans (504) 941-9000 ThePontchartrainHotel.com

Portofino Island Resort 10 Portofino Dr., Pensacola Beach, FL (866) 966-1420 PortofinoIsland.com

Pontchartrain Pink Robes. Cozy up in the plush signature Pontchartrain robe. With 100% combed cotton velour, shawl collar and two front pockets, this is the perfect at-home indulgence. Available in medium and large. $119.

Romantic sunsets, picturesque views and luxury accommodations set the scene for a lovely couple’s getaway to Portofino Island Resort.

Sosusu Boutique 3427 Magazine St., New Orleans (504) 309-5026 Sosusu.MyShopify.com

Southern Refinishing 708 Barataria Blvd., Marrero (504) 348-1770 SouthernRefinishing.com

The Rani Arabella Luxury Lifestyle collection is handcrafted in Italy. The Weekender scarf printed bag made with cotton fabric and matching hat is the perfect gift for your Valentine.

Give a gift card to Southern Refinishing for Valentine’s Day. With the refinishing/restoration process, your worn out fixtures and tile can be restored to their original luster in less than a day. You can even change the color of your fixtures and tile to have the bathroom of your dreams.

8 2 february 2020 myneworleans.com

SPONSORED

Casinos & Resorts SCARLET PEARL CASINO RESORT

W

hether it’s the stars aligning or a row of sevens on a slot machine, special moments often abound at the region’s numerous options for gaming fun. Casinos offer a thrilling experience that complement the area’s other many attractions, from music and entertainment to outdoor exploration, exquisite cuisine, and Southern hospitality. Casino resorts often go above and beyond, combining all of these Gulf South attractions in one with luxurious hotels, entertainment complexes, water-front views and/or access, and a variety of dining options. When planning your next weekend getaway, consider a nearby casino and resort. Hit the jackpot with family and friends by embarking on an exciting escape not far from home. This month, Valentine’s weekend provides a perfect backdrop for a romantic getaway for two—the perfect excuse to pack up and go with your special someone.

Scarlet Pearl Casino Resort, voted Best Casino Hotel on the Mississippi Gulf Coast, invites New Orleans locals and visitors to the Gulf South to experience a lavish hotel stay with breathtaking views, superior service, relaxing rooms and spa-like bathrooms.

Play on Scarlet Pearl’s award-winning gaming floor offering the newest, most dynamic slot selection on the Mississippi Gulf Coast.

With over 900 slot machines, over 55 live video poker machines, the top-rated sportsbook in Mississippi and over 30 table games, you are sure to discover “The New Way” to win on your next visit.

While visiting Scarlet Pearl Casino Resort, indulge in the Sweetheart dining special at Scarlet’s Steaks & Seafood, February 12-15. Spoil your special someone with four decadent courses at Scarlet Pearl’s awardwining steakhouse. Make your reservation today by calling 228-275-3032 or visit OpenTable.com.

Book your winter or spring visit today at ScarletPearlCasino.com myneworleans.com february 2020 8 3

SPONSORED

Heart Health

H

earts are aflutter for Valentine’s Day, and it’s a good time to make sure that fluttering is from the butterflies of love and not a surprise heart condition. February is American Heart Month, a time to increase awareness of heart health and prevent heart disease across the country. From attending local events hosted by healthcare providers to seeking annual check-ups and screenings, there are a variety of ways to get involved with your own heart health this month. No matter your age, there are heart-focused programs and physicians ready to assist you on your journey to achieve a healthy heart. Explore your options and check out the latest from the following area providers of heart and vascular care in addition to wellness programs to improve overall health and insurance to help along the way. Your heart is vital to both living and loving—spoil it this Valentine’s day with a little self-care guided by your doctor.

HEART AND VASCULAR CARE The Tulane Doctors vision, “Healing people, defining medicine,” is supported by its mission to improve the health of the community and the world by setting the standard of excellence in medical education, research, and clinical care.

This vision is at work at Tulane Doctors Heart and Vascular Clinic, conveniently located in Metairie. Patients are cared for by Tulane University School of Medicine’s renowned faculty, leaders in cardiovascular diagnosis and treatment. The clinic’s team explores your current health concerns and your family history to create your personalized treatment plan.

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Your family deserves the best, and you can feel confident that the physicians and staff of Tulane Doctors are working to deliver the highest quality healthcare to you and those you love.

Find your Tulane Doctor by calling 504-988-3333, or visit tulaneheart.com. From interventional cardiology to electrophysiology, a healthier heart is closer than you think.

Children’s Hospital New Orleans offers expert heart care just for kids. The Heart Center at Children’s Hospital provides comprehensive evaluation and treatment of patients with congenital and acquired cardiovascular disorders. Each year, nearly 2,000 children and adults from around the world visit Children’s for cardiac-related services including pediatric and adult congenital cardiothoracic surgery, an allnew, 28-bed dedicated pediatric Cardiac Intensive Care Unit for close post-operative management, diagnostic and interventional cardiac catheterization, electrophysiology services, non-invasive imaging, maternal fetal care, adult congenital heart disease care, exercise stress testing, heart failure and cardiomyopathy diagnosis and management, and pediatric coronary artery disease.

The Heart Center offers the benefits of a full-service pediatric hospital dedicated only to the care of kids. As complex congenital heart conditions often present with other comorbidities that require care from other subspecialists, Children’s Hospital is proud to be the only facility to provide a full array of pediatric sub-specialties in the state.

Learn more at Children’s Hospital at chnola.org/heartcenter.

SPONSORED

Touro is dedicated to improving heart and vascular care for New Orleanians, and is proud to be awarded the Gold Seal of Approval® for Chest Pain Certification by The Joint Commission. This important Chest Pain certification provides Touro with the framework to provide expert, lifesaving care for its community. Following a rigorous onsite review in November 2018, Touro was awarded a two-year Chest Pain certification based on a thorough evaluation of its clinical programs, compliance with national standards, and performance measurements.

This designation reflects Touro’s commitment to providing a higher standard of care for patients experiencing chest pain.

Join Touro for the Annual Women’s Heart Health and Wine Event on February 13 at Martin Wine Cellar Uptown from 6 – 8 p.m. Learn about heart health, visit with the American Heart Association, and enjoy a fun ladies night out. Register at touro.com/events. To learn more about heart care at Touro or to find a cardiologist, visit touro.com.

RESOURCES FOR IMPROVING HEART HEALTH & WELLNESS Thibodaux Regional Wellness Center, located in Lafourche Parish, is changing the health of the community. The Center offers WellFit, which integrates wellness into clinical care. WellFit is an eight-week, physician-referred program that offers a customized plan for improving an individual’s health and well-being. Participants receive nutrition counseling with a registered dietitian along with fitness education and unlimited access to the Center’s Fitness Center.

Smoking cessation options, physical therapy, and behavioral health screenings are also available if needed.

“The goal of WellFit is to help people live the highest quality, most active lifestyle possible,” says Education and Training Coordinator, Katie Richard, MA, BSN, RN. Physician specialists helped to shape the WellFit pathways.

“We want people to feel that their unique needs are being met and that their doctor was a part of the process,” says Richard. Call 985-493-4765 for more information or visit thibodaux.com.

Blue Cross and Blue Shield of Louisiana is devoted to its mission to improve the health and lives of Louisianians. Founded in New Orleans in 1934, the company remains committed to those roots with a new office in the Central Business District and a full-service, regional office in Metairie. Blue Cross and Blue Shield of Louisiana has offices in every major Louisiana city to serve its customers.

In 2019, Blue Cross and Blue Shield of Louisiana was recognized

by Points of Light as a 2019 honoree of The Civic 50, the 50 most community-minded companies in the United States, and by the Baton Rouge Area Chamber as a 2019 Diversity Star. The company invites all Louisianians to visit its website at www.bcbsla.com.

Blue Cross and Blue Shield of Louisiana is an independent licensee of the Blue Cross and Blue Shield Association. It is a private mutual company, owned by its policyholders, with an independent Louisiana

myneworleans.com february 2020 8 5

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Hospital Buzz

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myneworleans.com february 2020 8 7

A Special Section of New Orleans Magazine WYES-TV/CHANNEL 12 PROGRAM & EVENTS GUIDE FEBRUARY 2020

Tune in to WYES for a close look at the history, tradition and revelry of

Carnival

STEPPIN’ OUT “IT’S CARNIVAL TIME” | WHILE WE DANCED: THE MUSIC OF MARDI GRAS ALL ON A MARDI GRAS DAY | MARDI GRAS MEMORIES BIG QUEENS OF CARNIVAL: IT’S YOUR GLORY | BIG CHIEFS OF CARNIVAL: THE SPIRIT LEADS MY NEEDLE THE 2020 REX BALL AND THE MEETING OF THE COURTS OF REX AND COMUS

PROGRAMMING HIGHLIGHTS WYES-TV/CHANNEL 12 PROGRAM GUIDE | FEBRUARY 2020

THE 2020 REX BALL AND THE MEETING OF THE COURTS OF REX AND COMUS

Tuesday, February 25 at 7:30pm & 11:30pm Hosts Peggy Scott Laborde and Errol Laborde, along with Dr. Stephen Hales, a Rex Organization official and and krewe archivist, provide coverage of the ball live from the Sheraton and Marriott Hotels in downtown New Orleans.

Viewers will witness the historic Meeting of the Courts, which has taken place since 1882.

KATHY ANDERSON PHOTOGRAPHY

STEPPIN’ OUT “It’s Carnival Time”

Monday, February 3 at 8pm. For additional airdates, go to wyes.org.

Host Peggy Scott Laborde, along with Carnival historians Arthur Hardy and Errol Laborde, give their annual overview of the upcoming Mardi Gras season. Hardy is the publisher of Arthur Hardy’s Mardi Gras Guide, now in its 44nd year. Errol Laborde is the author of many Carnival-related books, including Mardi Gras: Chronicles of the New Orleans Carnival. This year’s topics include the explosion of the local king cake business, top Carnival signature floats, and how Royal Artists has become a major builder of New Orleans parades. Hardy will discuss the importance of bands in local parades.

AUSTIN CITY LIMITS “Billie Eilish”

Saturday, February 1 at 8pm Savor an hour with young pop superstar Billie Eilish.

The L.A. singer/songwriter performs songs from her hits and songs from her debut LP When We All Fall Asleep, Where Do We Go?

NOVA “Polar Extremes”

Wednesday, February 5 at 7pm Join renowned paleontologist and host Kirk Johnson on an epic adventure through time at the Polar Extremes of our planet. Following a trail of strange fossils found in all the wrong places—beech trees in Antarctica, hippo-like mammals in the Arctic—Johnson uncovers the bizarre history of the poles, from miles-high ice sheets to warm polar forests teeming with life. What caused such dramatic changes at the ends of the Earth? And what controls the dial on Earth’s thermostat?

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Friday, april 3, 2020

Wyes paulette and Frank stewart innovation center for educational media Patron Party 6:30pm $500 | *$225 – Jr. Patron

rs

presented by

Oscar J. tOlmas charitable trust

WYES invites you to celebrate the popular MASTERPIECE period drama “Victoria” at the “The Town and Country World of Queen Victoria & Prince Albert.”

WYES-TV/CHANNEL 12 PROGRAM GUIDE | FEBRUARY 2020

& gala

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General Admission Gala 8:00pm Gala - $200 | *$100 – Jr. Gala *Junior tickets - ages 21-40 Live Entertainment by The Boogie Men Cuisine by Celebrate! Catered Events

by Windsor Court Thanks to our Gala Chairs: Stephanie and Ludovico Feoli | Claudia and Cleland Powell | Erica and James Reiss

presentinG “bucKinGham palace” spOnsOr:

the Oscar J. tolmas charitable trust

SPONSORS: Zemurray Foundation, IBERIABANK, Michele Reynoir & Kevin Clifford Cox Communications, Hancock Whitney, Bourgeois Bennett LLC, Patricia and Vernon Brinson, Freeport-McMoRan Foundation, Jones Walker

Tickets wyes.org/events D3

WYES-TV/CHANNEL 12 PROGRAM GUIDE | FEBRUARY 2020

CROATIA & ITS ISLANDS SMALL SHIP CRUISING ON THE ADRIATIC COAST October 6 – 17, 2020 Rate $4,899pp | Single $5,399pp Refer to booking #962698 Highlights include: Dubrovnik, 7-night Adriatic Cruise, Slano, Mljet National Park, Korcula, Vis, Biševo Blue Cave, Hvar, Bol, Trogir, Split, Diocletian’s Palace, Choice On Tour, Šibenik, Cathedral of St. James, Krka National Park, Zagreb, Stone Gate

JOURNEY THROUGH SOUTHERN FRANCE June 13-22, 2020 Double $5,399pp | Single $6,899pp Refer to booking #974363 Highlights include: Centuries-old Castles, Bordeaux, Grand Cru, Medieval Bastides in Dordogne, Lavender Fields of Saint Rémy, Hunt for Truffles, Village of Carcassonne

FOR DETAILS ON ALL WYES TRIPS, GO TO WYES.ORG/EVENTS OR CALL COLLETTE 800-581-8942.

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1 SATURDAY 6pm LAWRENCE WELK: THE SOUTHERN SHOW

HIGHLIGHT

9pm VIENNA BLOOD (Part 3 of 6) A killer’s gruesome calling cards and seemingly random choice of victims confuse Oskar.

10pm I NEVER SANG FOR MY FATHER (1970) 11:30pm BIRTH OF THE BREWS: A HISTORY OF DIXIE BEER

8pm AUSTIN CITY LIMITS “Billie Eilish” The L.A. singer/songwriter performs songs from her hits and songs from her debut LP When We All Fall Asleep, Where Do We Go? Photo Credit: Scott Newton. Courtesy of Austin City Limits/Austin PBS. 9pm I NEVER SANG FOR MY FATHER (1970) 10:30pm BIRTH OF THE BREWS: A HISTORY OF DIXIE BEER explores the brewery’s survival story to bankruptcy through Hurricane Katrina and its 2017 sale to Tom and Gayle Benson. Narrated by Peggy Scott Laborde and produced by Laborde and Jim Moriarty.

11pm THE KATE “Jane Lynch”

2 SUNDAY 3pm MASTERPIECE “Howard’s End” (Parts 1-3) Follow two independent and unconventional sisters and the men in their lives seeking love and meaning as they navigate an ever-changing world in this fresh take on E.M. Forster’s masterpiece.

7pm MASTERPIECE “Howard’s End” (Part 4) In the final episode, Margaret is undaunted by Henry’s past misdeeds.

Helen leaves abruptly for Europe.

Margaret and Tibby get Henry to help resolve issues at Howards End – where the three families have a showdown.

4 TUESDAY 6pm PBS NEWSHOUR 7pm FINDING YOUR ROOTS “Science Pioneers” Henry Louis Gates, Jr. traces the family trees of Francis Collins, Shirley Ann Jackson and Harold Varmus, three pioneering scientists who’ve made dramatic contributions to our understanding of the world while knowing little about their own ancestry.

Live!

3 MONDAY 6pm PBS NEWSHOUR 7pm ANTIQUES ROADSHOW “Bonanzaville” (Hour 2 of 3)

8pm PBS NEWSHOUR COVERAGE OF THE STATE OF THE UNION ADDRESS President Donald Trump delivers the State of the Union to a joint session.

10pm AMERICAN EXPERIENCE “Ruby Ridge” A riveting account of the event that helped give rise to the modern American militia movement.

HIGHLIGHT 8pm STEPPIN’ OUT “It’s Carnival Time” Host Peggy Scott Laborde, along with Carnival historians Arthur Hardy and Errol Laborde, give their annual overview of the upcoming Mardi Gras season.

8:30pm NO PASSPORT REQUIRED “Philadelphia” Learn about the city’s Italian food scene while sampling everything from pizza to cannoli, with plenty of red sauce, burrata and handmade pasta in between with Chef Marcus Samuelsson.

9:30pm INDEPENDENT LENS “Leftover Women” Meet three of the professional Chinese women who are labeled “leftover” because they are unmarried.

11pm AMANPOUR AND COMPANY

WYES-TV/CHANNEL 12 PROGRAM GUIDE | FEBRUARY 2020

7pm FINDING YOUR ROOTS “Secrets & Lies”

8pm MASTERPIECE “Sanditon” (Part 5 of 8) Desperate for unpaid wages, Young Stringer threatens a worker boycott of the annual cricket match with Sanditon’s gentlemen. Even Charlotte joins the game as simmering tensions boil over.

11pm AMANPOUR AND COMPANY Christiane Amanpour leads conversations with thought leaders and influencers, with other interviews from Walter

5 WEDNESDAY 6pm PBS NEWSHOUR 7pm NOVA “Polar Extremes” Join renowned paleontologist and host Kirk Johnson on an epic adventure through time at the Polar Extremes of our planet. What caused such dramatic changes at the ends of the Earth? And what controls the dial on Earth’s thermostat?

9pm EXPEDITION WITH STEVE BACKSHALL “Mexico—Flooded Caves” (Part 4 of 10) After trekking through kilometers of scorpion-infested Mexican jungle to reach the caves, Steve faces the terror of being lost in an underwater silt cloud.

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WEEKDAYS ON

10pm EARTH’S NATURAL WONDERS “Living Wonders”

WYES-TV/CHANNEL 12 PROGRAM GUIDE | FEBRUARY 2020

11pm AMANPOUR AND COMPANY

6 THURSDAY 6pm PBS NEWSHOUR 7pm THE THIS OLD HOUSE HOUR

8am & 3:30pm XAVIER RIDDLE AND THE SECRET MUSEUM

Follow the adventures of Xavier, Yadina and Brad as they tackle everyday problems by doing something extraordinary: traveling back in time to learn from real-life inspirational figures when they were kids.

5:00am READY JET GO!

Noon SESAME STREET

5:30am ARTHUR

12:30pm SPLASH AND BUBBLES

6:00am CURIOUS GEORGE 6:30am NATURE CAT 7:00am WILD KRATTS 7:30am MOLLY OF DENALI 8:00am XAVIER RIDDLE AND THE SECRET MUSEUM 8:30am LET’S GO LUNA! 9:00am DANIEL TIGER’S NEIGHBORHOOD 9:30am DANIEL TIGER’S NEIGHBORHOOD

1:00pm PINKALICIOUS & PETERRIFIC 1:30pm LET’S GO LUNA! 2:00pm NATURE CAT 2:30pm WILD KRATTS 3:00pm MOLLY OF DENALI 3:30pm XAVIER RIDDLE AND THE SECRET MUSEUM

10pm STEPPIN’ OUT “It’s Carnival Time” This year’s topics include the explosion of the local king cake business; top Carnival signature floats, and how Royal Artists has become a major builder of New Orleans parades. Attention will also be paid to the uptown Carnival. Arthur Hardy will discuss the importance of bands in local parades.

10:30pm REX: A ROYAL ANNIVERSARY 11pm AMANPOUR AND COMPANY

7 FRIDAY 6pm PBS NEWSHOUR

4:30pm ARTHUR 5:00pm READY JET GO!

10:30am PINKALICIOUS & PETERRIFIC

5:30pm PEG + CAT

11:30am CAT IN THE HAT KNOWS A LOT ABOUT THAT

9:30pm MASTERPIECE “Downton Abbey, Season 5” (Part 4 of 9)

4:00pm ODD SQUAD

10:00am SESAME STREET

11:00am DINOSAUR TRAIN

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8pm MASTERPIECE “Downton Abbey, Season 5” (Part 3 of 9)

6:00pm PBS NEWSHOUR

7:30pm STEPPIN’ OUT 8pm WASHINGTON WEEK 8:30pm COUNTRY MUSIC “Will The Circle Be Unbroken?” (1968-1972) (Part 6 of 8) Learn how country music responds to a nation divided by the Vietnam War, as Army captain turned songwriter Kris Kristofferson sets a new lyrical standard, and artists like Bob Dylan and the Byrds find a recording home in Nashville.

10:30pm STEPPIN’ OUT 11pm AMANPOUR AND COMPANY

8 SATURDAY 6pm LAWRENCE WELK: LOVE SONGS 7pm FINDING YOUR ROOTS “Science Pioneers” 8pm AUSTIN CITY LIMITS “Rosalia” 9pm THE MUPPETS TAKE MANHATTAN (1984) Kermit and his friends go to New York City to get their musical on Broadway only to find it’s a more difficult task than they anticipated.

10:30pm STEPPIN’ OUT “It’s Carnival Time” 11pm THE KATE “Darlene Love” Rock and Roll Hall of Fame inductee Darlene Love and her band perform a range of songs like “Forbidden Nights” from her recent Stevie Van Zandtproduced album, to classic hits like “Da Do Ron Ron” and “He’s A Rebel.”

9 SUNDAY

7pm INFORMED SOURCES Now in its 35th season, this weekly, local news special brings together our region’s top print and broadcast journalists to examine the stories behind the headlines. Repeats Sundays at 9:30 a.m.

6pm CALL THE MIDWIFE, SEASON 6 (Part 7 of 8) 7pm A VERY BRITISH ROMANCE WITH LUCY WORSLEY Lucy will then explore the glamorisation of romantic love that followed the emergence of the romantic novel in the 18th century.

8pm MASTERPIECE “Sanditon” (Part 6 of 8) Charlotte and Sidney join forces to rescue Miss Lambe.

10pm THE MUPPETS TAKE MANHATTAN (1984) 11:30pm WHILE WE DANCED: THE MUSIC OF MARDI GRAS

10 MONDAY 6pm PBS NEWSHOUR 7pm ANTIQUES ROADSHOW “Bonanzaville” (Hour 3 of 3) Watch wow-worthy West Fargo appraisals at Bonanzaville such as a 1919 Babe Ruth Home Run Record award, an 1876 Centennial Exhibition sketchbook and a mother-of-pearl button suit made around 1970.

11pm AMANPOUR AND COMPANY

11 TUESDAY 6pm PBS NEWSHOUR 7pm FINDING YOUR ROOTS “Slave Trade” Henry Louis Gates, Jr. journeys with film director Ava DuVernay, actor S. Epatha Merkerson, and musician Questlove to the unexpected places where their ancestors were scattered by slavery, upending their notions of African American history.

8pm ALL ON A MARDI GRAS DAY celebrates black Carnival in New Orleans in all its riotous, colorful and spiritual glory.

9pm FRONTLINE “Battle for Hong Kong” 10pm AMERICAN EXPERIENCE “The Fight” Learn the stories of two extraordinary boxers: Max Schmeling of Germany and American Joe Louis.

11pm AMANPOUR AND COMPANY

12 WEDNESDAY 6pm PBS NEWSHOUR

8pm NO PASSPORT REQUIRED “Las Vegas” Explore Las Vegas and its deeprooted Chinese community — from the Strip’s neon-lit casinos to modest shopping malls.

7pm NATURE “Wild Florida”

10pm EARTH’S NATURAL WONDERS: LIFE AT THE EXTREMES “Surviving the Extremes: (Part 1 of 3) For human beings, survival within these extraordinary places can pose great challenges. Yet human ingenuity makes this possible.

11pm AMANPOUR AND COMPANY

13 THURSDAY 6pm PBS NEWSHOUR 7pm THE THIS OLD HOUSE HOUR 8pm MASTERPIECE “Downton Abbey, Season 5” (Part 5 of 9) 9pm MASTERPIECE “Downton Abbey, Season 5” (Part 6 of 9) 10pm THE BIG QUEENS OF CARNIVAL: IT’S YOUR GLORY In New Orleans some women were born to be queens, but not because their fathers were kings. They do not inherit their crowns: they create their own. This documentary gives voice to the powerful women in a tradition best known for its male leaders.

8pm NOVA “Dog Tales”

9pm INDEPENDENT LENS “Cooked: Survival By Zip Code” Revisit the shocking and oft-forgotten impacts of a deadly heat wave that overtook Chicago in 1995.

10pm FAUBOURG TREME: THE UNTOLD STORY OF BLACK NEW ORLEANS is a riveting tale of hope, heartbreak and resiliency set in New Orleans’ most fascinating neighborhood. The film

underground Bornean caves threatened by deforestation and limestone quarrying. The journey may lead to the potential to explore other undiscovered subterranean worlds. Pictured: The team use long boats to journey up the Marang River into the heart of the Gergaji Karst Mountains.

WYES-TV/CHANNEL 12 PROGRAM GUIDE | FEBRUARY 2020

9pm VIENNA BLOOD (Part 4 of 6) A murder investigation draws Max and Oskar into the sphere of nationalistic groups.

is a tribute to what African American communities have contributed even under the most hostile of conditions.

9pm EXPEDITION WITH STEVE BACKSHALL “Borneo—Dark Shadow” (Part 5 of 10) Follow Steve Backshall as he drops down a sinkhole to explore a series of

10:30pm THE BIG CHIEFS OF CARNIVAL: THE SPIRIT LEADS MY NEEDLE captures the artistry and strength of the legendary leaders of New Orleans’ Mardi Gras Indian tribes. Every year the neighborhood tribes create intricate suits of the finest beads and choicest

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SATURDAYS ON

feathers, competing for the role of “prettiest” when they mask on Mardi Gras morning. Photo Credit: Pableaux Johnson

15 SATURDAY

WYES-TV/CHANNEL 12 PROGRAM GUIDE | FEBRUARY 2020

11pm AMANPOUR AND COMPANY

14 FRIDAY 6pm PBS NEWSHOUR 7pm INFORMED SOURCES

7am GROWING A GREENER WORLD

5:30am DINOSAUR TRAIN 6:00am SESAME STREET 6:30am DANIEL TIGER’S NEIGHBORHOOD 7:00am GROWING A GREENER WORLD 7:30am WOODSMITH SHOP 8:00am AMERICAN WOODWORKING 8:30am THIS OLD HOUSE 9:00am ASK THIS OLD HOUSE 9:30am KEVIN BELTON’S NEW ORLEANS CELEBRATIONS 10:00am KEVIN BELTON’S NEW ORLEANS KITCHEN 10:30am CHEF PAUL PRUDHOMME’S ALWAYS COOKING

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5:30pm STEPPIN’ OUT “It’s Carnival Time” Host Peggy Scott Laborde, along with Carnival historians Arthur Hardy and Errol Laborde, give their annual overview of the upcoming Mardi Gras season.

Gardener Joe Lamp'l demonstrates a hands-on gardening project, and celebrity chef Nathan Lyon creates simple cuisine using fresh, local ingredients.

5:00am MISTER ROGERS’ NEIGHBORHOOD

11:00am LIDIA’S KITCHEN 11:30am AMERICA’S TEST KITCHEN FROM COOK’S ILLUSTRATED NOON COOK’S COUNTRY 12:30pm CHRISTOPHER KIMBALL’S MILK STREET 1:00pm JAMIE’S QUICK AND EASY FOOD 1:30pm JACQUES PÉPIN: HEART AND SOUL 2:00pm SARA’S WEEKNIGHT MEALS 2:30pm PATI’S MEXICAN TABLE

5pm BIRTH OF THE BREWS: A HISTORY OF DIXIE BEER Learn of Dixie’s amazing history as one of nearly 50 breweries operating at the turn of the 20th century and becoming one of the most popular, along with Jax, Regal and Falstaff.

7:30pm STEPPIN’ OUT Peggy Scott Laborde is joined weekly by regular guests Poppy Tooker and Alan Smason, plus art reviews, local theatre productions, live music and more! Missed an episode? Watch it on the WYES On Demand channel at YouTube.com and at wyes.org. Pictured: Country music singer Mark Mackay and host/producer Peggy Scott Laborde 8pm WASHINGTON WEEK 8:30pm COUNTRY MUSIC “Are You Sure Hank Done It This Way?” (19731983) (Part 7 of 8) Witness a vibrant era in country music, with Dolly Parton finding mainstream success, Hank Williams Jr. and Rosanne Cash emerging from their famous fathers’ shadows, and Willie Nelson and Waylon Jennings launching the “Outlaw” movement.

3:00pm NOVA

6pm LAWRENCE WELK: SONGS BY JOHNNY MERCER 7pm FINDING YOUR ROOTS “Slave Trade” 8pm AUSTIN CITY LIMITS “Brandi Carlile” Hear songs from her new album By the Way, I Forgive You at her second taping of AUSTIN CITY LIMITS. 9pm AND JUSTICE FOR ALL (1979) 11pm THE KATE “Keifer Sutherland”

16 SUNDAY 6pm CALL THE MIDWIFE, SEASON 6 (Part 8 of 8) Season 9 of CALL THE MIDWIFE premieres Sunday, March 29 on WYES! 7pm A VERY BRITISH ROMANCE WITH LUCY WORSLEY

4:00pm NATURE 5:00pm ANTIQUES ROADSHOW

11pm AMANPOUR AND COMPANY

8pm MASTERPIECE “Sanditon” (Part 7 of 8) With the approach of Sanditon’s regatta, the success of the resort hangs in the balance—as do assorted romances. How will Charlotte, Sidney, and other lovers fair in the marriage game?

10pm AND JUSTICE FOR ALL (1979)

17 MONDAY 6pm PBS NEWSHOUR

18 TUESDAY 6pm PBS NEWSHOUR 7pm FINDING YOUR ROOTS “Italian Roots” Henry Louis Gates, Jr. explores the roots of talk show-host Jimmy Kimmel and actors Marisa Tomei and John Turturro, introducing them to ancestors who made immense sacrifices to bring their families from Italy to America.

8pm MARDI GRAS MEMORIES weaves together stories and characters of Carnivals past. Produced by Dominic Massa.

10pm FRONTLINE “Amazon Empire: The Rise of Jeff Bezos” An investigation into the consequences of Amazon’s success, and how Jeff Bezos came to build one of the most influential economic and cultural forces in the world.

11pm AMANPOUR AND COMPANY

7pm ANTIQUES ROADSHOW “Crocker Art Museum” (Hour 1 of 3) Head to California’s capital city for standout appraisals at Crocker Art Museum like 1934 “Babes in Toyland” stop-motion soldiers, a signed Joe DiMaggio gameused bat and a Reinhold Riel silver etrog box from around 1670. Which is $80,000$125,000? Pictured: Peter Loughrey (left) appraises a George Nakashima grass seat chair, ca. 1965 8pm NO PASSPORT REQUIRED “Boston” Visit Boston with Chef Marcus Samuelsson to learn about the region’s Portuguese food traditions.

9pm INDEPENDENT LENS “We Believe in Dinosaurs” Learn about the building of a $120 million Noah’s Ark exhibit, backed by the Creation Museum in Williamstown, Kentucky, and designed to prove the Bible is historically and scientifically accurate, and hear from residents who support and oppose it.

10:30pm REX: A ROYAL ANNIVERSARY 11pm AMANPOUR AND COMPANY

19 WEDNESDAY 6pm PBS NEWSHOUR 7pm NATURE “The Might Weasel” 8pm NOVA “Cat Tales’ 9pm EXPEDITION WITH STEVE BACKSHALL “Bhutan — White Water” (Part 6 of 10) Join Steve Backshall on his quest to kayak the last unrun river in Bhutan.

10pm EARTH’S NATURAL WONDERS: LIFE AT THE EXTREMES “Surviving with Animals’ (Part 2 of 3) 11pm AMANPOUR AND COMPANY

20 THURSDAY 6pm PBS NEWSHOUR 7pm THE THIS OLD HOUSE HOUR 8pm MASTERPIECE “Downton Abbey, Season 5” (Part 7 of 9)

9pm MASTERPIECE “Downton Abbey, Season 5” (Part 8 of 9) 10pm PLANTATION PORTRAITS Twelve Louisiana plantations are profiled in this documentary which captures timeless images of an era when sugar cane was the new “white gold” and cotton was king. Produced, written and directed by Barbara Sillery.

11pm AMANPOUR AND COMPANY

21 FRIDAY 6pm PBS NEWSHOUR 7pm INFORMED SOURCES 7:30pm STEPPIN’ OUT “It’s Carnival Time” 8pm WASHINGTON WEEK 8:30pm COUNTRY MUSIC “Don’t Get Above Your Raisin’” (1984 – 1996) (Part 8 of 8) Learn how “New Traditionalists” like George Strait, Randy Travis and the Judds help country music stay true to its roots. Witness both the rise of superstar Garth Brooks and the return of an aging Johnny Cash to the industry he helped create.

WYES-TV/CHANNEL 12 PROGRAM GUIDE | FEBRUARY 2020

9pm VIENNA BLOOD (Part 5 of 6) When his nephew, a student at a military school, suffers a breakdown after a fellow cadet’s death, Max calls on Oskar for help.

The school prepares a new generation of military officers, but its barbaric traditions are hidden from the outside world.

10:30pm STEPPIN’ OUT “It’s Carnival Time” 11pm AMANPOUR AND COMPANY

22 SATURDAY 6pm LAWRENCE WELK: TRIBUTE TO THE SWING AND SWEET BANDS 7pm FINDING YOUR ROOTS “Italian Roots” 8pm AUSTIN CITY LIMITS “St. Vincent” 9pm A PASSAGE TO INDIA (1984) The movie received eleven nominations at the Academy Awards, including Best Picture, Best Director and Best Actress.

D9

WYES-TV/CHANNEL 12 PROGRAM GUIDE | FEBRUARY 2020

SUNDAYS ON

3:30pm JOSEPH ROSENDO’S TRAVELSCOPE

6pm CALL THE MIDWIFE, SEASON 8 (Part 1 of 8) In this first episode, Nonnatus House welcomes two new nuns; Valerie deals with a shocking case that arrives unexpectedly; the other midwives must handle a complicated multiple birth. Season 9 premieres Sunday, March 29th.

7pm MASTERPIECE “Sanditon” (Part 7 of 8) With the approach of Sanditon’s regatta, the success of the resort hangs in the balance—as do assorted romances. How will Charlotte, Sidney, and other lovers fair in the marriage game?

The Daytime Emmy®-winning travel series scales new heights of adventure, natural splendor and cultural richness this season.

5:00am MISTER ROGERS’ NEIGHBORHOOD

NOON MOVIE/VARIOUS PROGRAMMING

5:30am DINOSAUR TRAIN

1:00pm KEVIN BELTON’S NEW ORLEANS KITCHEN

6:00am SESAME STREET 6:30am DANIEL TIGER’S NEIGHBORHOOD

1:30pm A MOVEABLE FEAST WITH FINE COOKING

7:00am PINKALICIOUS & PETERRIFIC

2:00pm SARA’S WEEKNIGHT MEALS

7:30am MOLLY OF DENALI

2:30pm MEXICO: ONE PLATE AT A TIME WITH RICK BAYLESS

8:00am XAVIER RIDDLE AND THE SECRET MUSEUM 8:30am WASHINGTON WEEK 9:00am FIRING LINE WITH MARGARET HOOVER 9:30am INFORMED SOURCES 10:00am MOVIE/VARIOUS PROGRAMMING

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23 SUNDAY

11:00am MOVIE/VARIOUS PROGRAMMING DIAL 12 | January 2019

3:00pm PATI’S MEXICAN TABLE

10:30am WHILE WE DANCED: THE MUSIC OF MARDI GRAS chronicles the first 125 years of the School of Design, better known as the Rex Organization.

Noon MARDI GRAS MEMORIES weaves together stories and characters of Carnivals past.

8pm MASTERPIECE “Sanditon” (Part 8 of 8) It is the night of the Midsummer Ball, and romance, jealousy, and betrayal fill the air. Devastating events conspire to leave Charlotte and the Parker family facing difficult choices.

9pm VIENNA BLOOD (Part 6 of 6) 10pm A PASSAGE TO INDIA (1984)

1pm MARDI GRAS: THE PASSING PARADE explores memories and traditions of Mardi Gras including rare footage of the 1929 Rex parade, French Quarter parades, origins of gay Carnival, Original Illinois Club traditional dance, King Cake and more!

2pm CARNIVAL MEMORIES 3pm CHAPPY GOES TO MARDI GRAS

24 MONDAY 6pm PBS NEWSHOUR 7pm ANTIQUES ROADSHOW “Crocker Art Museum” (Hour 2 of 3)

4:00pm RICK STEVES’ EUROPE

8pm ANTIQUES ROADSHOW “St. Louis” (Hour 3 of 3)

5:00pm MASTERPIECE: THE DURRELS IN CORFU

10am STEPPIN’ OUT “It’s Carnival Time” Host Peggy Scott Laborde, along with Carnival historians Arthur Hardy and Errol Laborde, give their annual overview of the upcoming Mardi Gras season.

11am ALL ON A MARDI GRAS DAY

3:30pm JOSEPH ROSENDO’S TRAVELSCOPE

4:30pm SAMANTHA BROWN’S PLACES TO LOVE

25 TUESDAY

9pm INDEPENDENT LENS “Always in Season” 10:30pm SONS OF TENNESSEE WILLIAMS documentarian Tim Wolff tracks a half-century of the gay civilrights movement through the lens of Mardi Gras celebrations in New Orleans.

4pm BIG QUEENS OF CARNIVAL: IT’S YOUR GLORY In New Orleans some

women were born to be queens, but not because their fathers were kings. They do not inherit their crowns: they create their own. This documentary gives voice to the powerful women in a tradition best known for its male leaders. Photo Credit: Pableaux Johnson

5pm ALL ON A MARDI GRAS DAY celebrates black Carnival in New Orleans in all its riotous, colorful and spiritual glory.

6pm PBS NEWSHOUR 7pm WHILE WE DANCED: THE MUSIC OF MARDI GRAS

HIGHLIGHT 7:30pm THE 2020 REX BALL AND THE MEETING OF THE COURTS OF REX AND COMUS Hosts Peggy Scott Laborde and Errol Laborde, along with Dr. Stephen Hales, a Rex Organization official and and krewe archivist, provide coverage of the ball live from the Sheraton and Marriott Hotels in downtown New Orleans. Viewers will witness the historic Meeting of the Courts, which has taken place since 1882.

29 SATURDAY

11pm AMANPOUR AND COMPANY

8:30am AGING BACKWARDS 3 MIRANDA ESMONDE-WHITE Did you know that you actually have a choice in how you age, and whether you remain mobile, healthy and pain-free throughout your life? In AGING BACKWARDS 3, former ballerina Miranda Esmonde-White uses groundbreaking science to develop a practical six-point plan anyone can use to keep their minds sharp and their bodies active using gentle daily movement.

27 THURSDAY 6pm PBS NEWSHOUR 7pm THE THIS OLD HOUSE HOUR 8pm MASTERPIECE “Downton Abbey, Season 5” (Part 9 of 9) 9pm MASTERPIECE “Downton Abbey, Season 6” (Part 1 of 9) Downsizing— and extortion!—threaten Downton Abbey, while particular pre-wedding jitters threaten the Carson/Hughes nuptials. Change is afoot at the hospital.

Daisy speaks her mind. Anna and Bates wait for the word.

11pm AMANPOUR AND COMPANY

28 FRIDAY 6pm PBS NEWSHOUR 7pm INFORMED SOURCES Watch WYES’ weekly programs anytime online on WYES’ YouTube channel, wyesondemand and at wyes.org.

11:30pm THE 2020 REX BALL AND THE MEETING OF THE COURTS OF REX AND COMUS

7:30pm STEPPIN’ OUT

26 WEDNESDAY

8:30pm WASHINGTON WEEK

6pm PBS NEWSHOUR

9pm COUNTRY MUSIC: LIVE AT THE RYMAN, A CONCERT CELEBRATING THE FILM

BY KEN BURNS Hosted by Burns featuring performances and appearances

by Dierks Bentley, Rosanne Cash, Rhiannon Giddens, Vince Gill, Kathy Mattea, Marty Stuart, Dwight Yoakam and more.

7pm NATURE “Arctic Wolf Pack” 8pm NOVA “Mysteries of Sleep” 9pm EXPEDITION WITH STEVE BACKSHALL “Suriname – Lost World” (Part 3 of 10)

8pm WASHINGTON WEEK

11pm STEPPIN’ OUT

7am 3 STEPS TO PAIN FREE LIVING

9:30am KEVIN BELTON’S NEW ORLEANS CELEBRATIONS 10am KEVIN BELTON’S NEW ORLEANS KITCHEN 10:30am RICK STEVES FASCISM IN EUROPE Rick visits poignant sights throughout Europe relating to fascism, and talks with Europeans whose families lived through those times.

Noon SUZE ORMAN’S ULTIMATE RETIREMENT GUIDE

WYES-TV/CHANNEL 12 PROGRAM GUIDE | FEBRUARY 2020

4:30pm BIG CHIEFS OF CARNIVAL: THE SPIRIT LEADS MY NEEDLE

10pm EARTH’S NATURAL WONDERS: LIFE AT THE EXTREMES “Surviving with Animals’ (Part 3 of 3)

2pm CHANGE YOUR BRAIN, HEAL YOUR MIND WITH DANIEL AMEN, MD 4pm LAWRENCE WELK: MILESTONES AND MEMORIES 7pm SOUL LEGENDS Soul legend Pam Grier (Jackie Brown, Coffy, The “L” Word, Bless This Mess) takes some time out to share her favorite R&B and soulful songs from the 60s, 70s and 80s in this new special.

Combining the elements of AfricanAmerican gospel music, blues, jazz and classic R&B, soul music expressed funky secular testifying, as featured in neverbefore-broadcast and archival recordings from the legendary singers, songwriters and hit makers of the era.

9pm CHUCK BERRY: BROWN EYED HANDSOME MAN 10:30pm SOUL LEGENDS

11:30pm AMANPOUR AND COMPANY

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streetcar by errol laborde

a very gracious lady seated

next to the ice chest in the back of the bus made me an offer. She asked, as I understood her, if would I like “an old hen?” My reaction, I am afraid, was less gracious as I replied: “hunh?!”

I had been invited to take a field trip down the spine of Plaquemines Parish to the site of Fort St. Phillip.

The date was March 3, 1999. Nearby was the location where, in 1699, Iberville and his gang spent their first full day in Louisiana territory.

As fate would have it, the date was Mardi Gras of that year. That coincidence would forever trigger the observation that from the moment that Frenchmen first arrived in the area, it was Mardi Gras.

Back on the bus, I had a second pour of what I now understood was properly known as an Ojen (o-hen) cocktail, and not an ancient chicken at all. The drink, I would learn, originated in Spain, but New Orleans, and Rex, are critical to its survival. Perhaps because of early men’s clubs the drink would become popular with the Carnival set. It is the classic Carnival insider’s cocktail. I would want to learn more.

Boatner Reily III was quite the man about town. The Reily coffee company executive had been a Carnival Captain, had reigned as Rex and was active in various other pastimes appropriate to Uptown gentlemen. What brought me to his Garden District home later that year was a lesser known, but nevertheless important hobby of Reily’s; he was part of a small group that had invested in buying a batch of Ojen from Spain. The anise-flavored liqueur was named after the town where it was made.

Unfortunately, its market never expanded very much - except to one place on the globe, New Orleans.

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Stirred In New Orleans carnival’s insiders’ cocktail To the distillery workers of Ojen, New Orleans must have been the epi-center of their existence. Here the drink was appreciated as a mixer for the main ingredient in an Ojen Cocktail.

Unfortunately, the product did not mix well with the economy. In the early 1990s the folks at Ojen said they were shutting down for good. Enter Cedric Martin, operator of Martin’s Wine Cellar, who was a skilled first responder when the crisis was booze.

He bargained with the company to make one more batch, which he would buy. The company provided

myneworleans.com

around 500 cases, roughly 8,000 bottles, all headed to Martin’s in New Orleans.

With that deal, and some help from his friends such as Reily, Martin became the world’s purveyor of Ojen.

When I visited Reily, he had agreed to make his rendition of the Ojen Cocktail. With skilled hands he poured two ounces of the Ojen into a cocktail shaker, followed by a dash of Peychaud’s bitters, a splash of water and sugar.

There was one more ingredient, something that gets little attention, but this was going to be special: Ice.

More later.

With the stash now sold out, Ojen was heading for obscurity once the remaining bottles were poured for the last time. But wait, Ojen has had a second savior the Sazarac Company, the locally based purveyor of several brands, including the native Sazerac, acquired the rights to produce Ojen. (Owned by New Orleanian William Goldring, most of the company’s products are produced at the company’s Buffalo Trace Distillery in Kentucky, as well as a few smaller satellite facilities.)

Which brings us back to Boatner Reily putting the final touches on the drink. He pulled out a two-foot square sheet of canvas. On it he placed ice cubes. Then he folded the canvas to contain the ice. Next he pulled out a small hammer and began pounding. Lesser men would have been content with ordinary crushed ice, but this was an act of urban pride. The canvas had come from the local Foster Awning Company. Foster, besides being the namesake for the flaming banana dessert, provides the floor-wide canvas, with the Crown in the center, used at the Rex ball.

Meanwhile, Ojen has moved from near obscurity to legendary status with the opening of the new Sazerac House museum on Canal Street. The place does a brilliant job displaying the city’s cocktail history, including the Ojen, which is now home-based in a town once ruled by Spain and where the buildings in the French Quarter resemble those of Seville. The liqueur’s odyssey continues—one sip at a time.

Oh, and as for the cocktail’s other key ingredient, Peychaud’s bitters, Sazerac now makes that too. The ice you will have to get on your own.

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ARTHUR NEAD IllUsTRATIoN