Louisiana Life May-June 2013 by Renaissance Publishing

may/june 2013

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contents IN EVERY ISSUE 8 From the Editor

26 Home

Lunch With Aunt Doris

A Place Called Perique

By errol laborde

This River Road Creole home is a gem among the mansions.

10 Barometer

By bonnie warren

A compendium of what’s hot and what’s not

30 Art

by Carolyn Kolb

Libby and Tess

12 Rural Life

An artist’s awakening By john r. kemp

Country Calories

Keeping the weight off is harder here.

34 Traveler

By melissa bienvenu

Scenic Route

14 Biz Bits

Cycles of life along the Creole Nature Trail By paul f. stahls jr.

Business news from around the state By kathy finn

16 Health

82 Lifetimes Our statewide calendar of events By Judi Russell

Medical news in Louisiana By eve kidd crawford

86 Great Louisiana Quiz High Water

18 Great Louisiana Chefs Miles Prescott Executive Chef of RioMar, New Orleans

20 State of the Plate Dining and Dancing Ruby’s Restaurant and Courtyard in Eunice

22 Traveling Gourmet Vine Time

Kermit Poling Shreveport maestro keeps the music coming. By megan hill

ON THE COVER: This crappie is just a small representation of the fish

In praise of the honest tomato

you can catch in Louisiana waters.

by stanley dry

PHOTOGRAPHED BY John N. Felsher

FEATURES

SPECIAL SECTIONS

38 Dropping a Line

72 Around Louisiana

A guide to freshwater fishing

Louisiana Life presents Around Louisiana, a section featuring the people and places of North Louisiana, Central Louisiana, Cajun Country, Baton Rouge and Plantation Country and Greater New Orleans.

43 Baseball’s Shrine Louisiana’s 4 Hall of Famers By Ryan Whirty

2 | Louisiana Life May/June 2013

88 A Louisiana Life

By Ian McNulty

By John N. Felsher

By Errol Laborde

48 The Saga of the Original Louisiana Tiger Chatham Roberdeau Wheat By Ron Soodalter

By jeanne frois

special edition 53 Louisiana Life Travel Guide by judi russell

LouisianaLife may/june 2013 Volume 33 Number 3 Editor Errol Laborde MANAGING EDITOR Eve Kidd Crawford Art Director Tiffani Reding Amedeo Associate Editors Haley Adams, Sarah Ravits Contributing Editor Paul F. Stahls Jr. Food Editor Stanley Dry Home Editor Bonnie Warren INTERNS Elizabeth Heideman, Caroline Malouse sales manager Kathryn Beck Sanderson kathryn@louisianalife.com

Sales Assistant Erin Maher

Production/Web Manager Staci McCarty Production designer Sarah George, Casey Hano Chief Executive Officer Todd Matherne President Alan Campell Executive Vice President Errol Laborde Executive Assistant Kristi Ferrante Newsstand manager Christian Coombs subscriptions (504) 828-1380

2011 Silver Award Winner for Overall Art Direction

Renaissance Publishing 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005 (504) 828-1380 Louisiana Life (ISSN 1042-9980) is published bimonthly by Renaissance Publishing, LLC, 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005; (504) 828-1380. Subscription rate: One year $10; Mexico and Canada $48. Periodicals postage paid at Metairie, LA, and additional mailing entry offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Louisiana Life, 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005. Copyright 2013 Louisiana Life. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the consent of the publisher. The trademark Louisiana Life is registered. Louisiana Life is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts, photos and artwork, even if accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. The opinions expressed in Louisiana Life are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the views of the magazine or owner.

4 | Louisiana Life May/June 2013

on the web louisianalife.com Louisiana Life Photo entry Are you an amateur, professional or “just for fun” photographer with some Louisiana photos to share? We want to hear from you! We want to see some great Louisiana photos, whether they’re of people, landscapes, food, culture or even animals. Don’t miss your chance to have your photo featured in the pages of our magazine for all of our readers to see. Send in your photos by going to myneworleans.com/Louisiana-Life/LouisianaLife-Photo-Contest/. Please note that the URL is case-sensitive.

Our readers’ photographs

january:

Street Entertainer: Mandy Clement of Jeanerette snapped a photo of this street entertainer on Royal Street in New Orleans in January 2013.

february:

Pelicans: Gayle Richard of Napoleonville spotted these pelicans on Grassy Lake in Napoleonville in January 2013.

what are you thinking? Send feedback about this issue to Managing Editor Eve Kidd Crawford at Eve@LouisianaLife.com. www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 7

from the editor

Lunch With Aunt Doris When I last had lunch with Aunt Doris, she was apologetic about what she had to offer. “This is all I have,” she said shyly. Then she placed on the table three pie pans: one filled with boudin, the other with sweet potatoes and the third with biscuits. She did not realize what a classic Louisiana meal she was serving. To her it was just everyday food. She

spicy sausage. (The biscuits are a great

probably thought I was just another silly

comfort food and can be used to make a

city person when I hovered over the table

boudin breakfast sandwich.)

inexplicably trying to take a picture with my cell phone. Aunt Doris lived in Moreauville, almost

Whenever I would call Dow, which wasn’t often enough, the conversation would always end with an inquiry

in the geographic center of the state.

of “When are you coming?” My

Her apartment was only a few blocks

answer was always the same: “soon.”

away from Louisiana Highway 1, which

Unfortunately the last time I gave that

cuts across the state diagonally from

answer, soon did not come soon enough.

Grand Isle to Shreveport. At Moreauville,

There is a field next to the cemetery.

Highway 1 is about halfway through its

In 2005, the year of Katrina and Rita,

run, bridging the boundary from French

the fields were snow-white with cotton.

dialect to the Southern drawl.

In more recent years there has been

Like most people in rural French

more profit in soybeans. Sweet potatoes

Louisiana, she had a nickname. She

remain as a steady crop grown not far

was called “Dow,” which had nothing

from places where each winter folks

to do with the industrial average or the

butcher pigs to prepare packaged meats

chemical company but was probably due

and to make hogshead cheese, cracklins

to a childhood pronunciation of “Doris.”

and sausages.

The name stuck. Life had given her some challenges.

My Christmas present from Aunt Doris was always the same. From

She was born with a hearing problem

the freezer of her refrigerator came a

that caused a speech impediment.

package of boudin brightly wrapped in

Later in life a tumor blinded her in one

holiday paper.

eye. Yet she persisted. For most of her

I had hoped that our lunch would

adult life, she had her own at-home

become a tradition; instead it is a

beautician business, but then one day,

memory. Her meal was special, though

she confessed, she was getting tired

she did not know it. The same can be

– and perhaps a little weary of country

said about her life. Through it all, she

neighbors showing up at 6 a.m. to get

remained consistent in loving her family

their hair done.

and in being a good person. Armed with

No one will ever confuse boudin for

little more than that, she faced life as

a health food, but sweet potatoes are

best as she could. In the end I would like

one of the most nutritious items of all.

to think that she won. n

The two complement each other as the sweet orange pulp neutralizes the 8 | Louisiana Life May/June 2013

—Errol Laborde

barometer A compendium of what’s hot and what’s not in Louisiana By carolyn kolb ULL budget was also easily accessible, student Lanie

HOT

Heroes to Remember

He told the Bogalusa Daily News: “As soon as I saw the

Cook discovered, according

Louisiana Public Broadcasting

white raccoon in my trap,

to the Daily Advertiser.

has announced eight statewide

I grabbed my phone to call

Louisiana Young Heroes

my daddy [Kelton Breland].

Speaking in Tongues

of 2013. They all “excelled

I hung the phone up and

in the classroom, served

called my grandpa.” Kyle’s

The old 4th Brigade Combat

their community, inspired

mom, Patsy Breland, is a

Team, 10th Mountain Division’s

others through their deeds

first-grade teacher at Wesley

headquarters building in Fort

or strength of character

Ray Elementary School in

Polk is temporarily housing the

or show[ed] great courage

Varnado, so the newly caged

Defense Language Institute’s

in overcoming adversity,

raccoon was brought to her

Pashto and Dari Afghanistan

physical or otherwise, in their

classroom, and the pale,

and Pakistan Language

lives.” Those honored include

pink-eyed creature was the

Training Course. The five-

Hollie Fields, Carissa Fruge,

star of show and tell.

day-a-week, 16-week course

Henry Futch, Aamina Green,

The Louisiana Association

includes about 640 hours of

Madison Perri Martin, Hunner

of Fairs and Festivals has

language training, with the

Monceaux, Rachel Patteson

named the Bogalusa Blues and

goal of having one language-

and Maggie Elizabeth

Department of Wildlife and

Heritage Festival the associa-

enabled officer in every Army

Tortorich. Awards are

Fisheries has warned St.

tion’s New Event of the Year.

platoon. Cultural training is

co-presented by the Rotary

Mary Parish residents to

The festival also took first

included, as well, according to

Club of Baton Rouge and

take precautions to minimize

place for its poster, which

the Beauregard Daily News.

underwritten by ExxonMobil.

encounters with black bears.

featured artwork by BBHF

The program at Fort Polk could

Bears will forage for food

chair Malinda White, reported

become permanent, said Fred

in garbage cans, according

the Bogalusa Daily News.

S. Holt, a language training

to Catherine Siracusa, St.

detachment liaison with the

Mary Parish black bear

Lighten Up

Defense Language Institute

conflict officer, and Roddy

For Sunshine Week,

Foreign Language Center at

Matherne of Progressive

Presidio of Monterey, Calif.

Waste Solutions. Matherne

HOT

Can’t Be Blue About This!

a project of the American Society of News Editors drawing attention to open

NOT

Can You Bear This? The Louisiana

said his company now has

How Low Can You Cargo?

about 1,300 bear-proof cans

government laws, University

HOT

of Louisiana – Lafayette

Engineers are designing a

journalism students of

new $11 million landing system

professor Robert Buckman

for Baton Rouge Metropolitan

Pine High School senior

carts are not.” Siracusa has

asked public agencies for

Airport. The new system will

Kyle Breland, was taken

students from local 4-H clubs

basic public information.

enable planes to descend

aback when he found an

passing out information on

Some were cooperative;

farther before deciding

extremely rare albino raccoon

avoiding attracting bears,

most were not. “These clerks

whether to attempt to land

in a trap he’d set in Angie.

reported StMaryNow.com.

and their bosses need to be

or not, said Ralph Hennessy,

reminded that these records

the airport’s assistant director

belong to the people,”

of aviation. This is especially

Buckman noted. Student

important to cargo carriers,

Elizabeth Rose was lucky –

which the airport hopes to

the Lafayette Consolidated

attract as customers, the

Government city-parish

Advocate reported.

budget was available. The 10 | Louisiana Life May/June 2013

in the parish, but “as we

HOT

Raccoon Rarity

keep on putting carts, they

An outdoorsman,

keep moving to where the

quotable “Newspaper columnists don’t retire. We ‘leave the paper.’ That makes retirement conform to our dramatic and romantic natures.” “Attic Salt,” Ed Cullen, the Advocate. (Cullen’s 41-year career at the Advocate ended with his March 10 column.)

rural life

fish and baked potatoes with

might find herself saying yes

plain, nonfat yogurt. Not only

to the elastic waistband.

did I eat such healthy fare, I

If I had to pick a turning

had actually convinced myself

point in the demise of my

that it was pretty darn tasty.

self-control, I would probably

I typically drank water with

have to blame Wookie.

a slice of lemon or 1 percent

Wookie is a living saint and

milk or something sugar-free.

amazing Southern cook who

I was stingy with the butter.

worked for my in-laws and

My refrigerator was stocked

helped raise my husband and

with Lean Cuisines and

his six siblings here on the

low-calorie everything. I

farm. When I arrived on the

attended an aerobics class

farm in 1992, Wookie was still

semi-regularly at a fitness

preparing full-blown, meat-

club in the basement of

and-vegetable lunches every

my Midtown Atlanta office

day for my father-in-law, my

building. I was no Jane

husband, various relatives

Fonda, but I did all right – all

and the men who worked on

right enough, at least, that

the farm. These midday smor-

my future spouse did not

gasbords featured dishes

run screaming when he first

such as chicken pie, fried

spotted me on the beach.

catfish, fried chicken, pot

It was shortly after this, I

roast and creamed potatoes

can see now, that everything

with homemade biscuits and

went to pot. In retrospect,

sweet tea. High-calorie and

it’s apparent that several

high-everything-else-that-

major life changes ganged up

is-bad-for-you, the noon

to unfairly conspire against

meal was intended to stick to

me and my bathroom scale.

the ribs and give a manual

First, my metabolism turned

laborer fuel for the rest of

30. Then I moved from the

the day. It was also a social

skinny-obsessed city to the

event and a reward for a job

comfortably plump country.

well-done. Given the choice

Keeping the weight off is harder here

At the same time, I left behind

of eating a lonely, sensible

By Melissa Bienvenu

a culture of comparative

lunch or joining in the daily

restraint (Atlanta) for one

fun and fellowship at the

of bacchanalian abandon

main farmhouse, what choice

conducive to swimwear

(Louisiana). Finally, I gave

did I really have? I could

country, I would look much

readiness. I’m referring to

up the me-focused single

hardly risk offending my new

better in a bathing suit. I

Atlanta, but really I could be

life for marriage – marriage

in-laws, now could I?

comfort myself with this

talking about any place that

to a working farmer whose

thought whenever swimsuit

had embraced 20th-century

normal weekday lunches

lunches didn’t single-

season rolls around. It

attitudes about diet and

resembled Sunday dinner on

handedly undermine my

certainly isn’t my fault.

exercise, any town where the

the grounds and whose ideas

healthy habits. They were

restaurants served something

about healthy eating were

just symbolic of a completely

years ago – while, ironically,

besides fried chicken and

completely at odds with mine.

different mind-set that I

wearing a two-piece on a

vegetables floating in pork fat.

With so much stacked against

found myself up against in

At the time, I ate a lot of

her, the most disciplined

the country. My new husband

steamed broccoli and broiled

person (which I am not)

was not only accustomed

Country Calories If I didn’t live in the

When I met my husband 23

Florida beach – I lived in a culture that was far more 12 | Louisiana Life May/June 2013

Of course, these long-ago

to eating like this every day

yogurt stuff, either. We’re

best of it, joining the health

always walk – we have a

(and active enough to get

talking Blue Bell, people.

club once or twice over

mile of traffic-free dirt road

away with it), he scoffed

Hey, who is a dairy

the years but never really

right here on the farm.

making it stick.

Unfortunately, walking

at the notion that diet food

farmer’s wife to look askance

could ever be better for you

at ice cream? Again, I cannot

than real food. In his book,

be held responsible.

These days, we do have

around the farm just reminds

fitness clubs that offer fun

me of all the repairs we need

classes, but alas, I face

to make and the projects we

than artificial sweeteners.

before my clothes started

another obstacle. Every

need to finish, and everyone

Margarine was “a bunch of

shrinking. My first instinct

time I mention joining a

knows stress is not good

chemicals,” and diet sodas

was to exercise, but that

health club, my husband –

for you. I could avoid these

reminded him of “diesel fuel.”

was easier said than done

perhaps remembering all the

unpleasant thoughts by

He also happened to be a

when the closest thing in

membership dollars gone to

walking at the fairgrounds

dairy farmer who had grown

town to a fitness club was

waste in the past – suggests

in town like other people do,

up drinking milk straight

an unattended room full of

I can get in shape right here

but how silly would it be to

from the cow. His attitude

exercise equipment in the

on the farm. If I really want

waste gas driving to town

about reduced-fat milk was

back of a hair salon. For a

to take off some pounds, he

when I can walk right here

that I was welcome to drink it

highly motivated person,

insists, he can put me to work

on the farm? Clearly, this is a

if I liked that sort of thing, but

such a setup would be more

hauling hay and cleaning

no-win situation.

as far as he was concerned,

than adequate. But I wasn’t

fence rows any time I want.

whole milk was far more

a highly motivated person.

All I have to do is say the

depressed about it, but why

nutritious. Whole milk, which

I needed something fun

word. When he puts it that

beat myself up? I’m finally at

I reluctantly gave in to, was

and group-oriented, peer

way, I realize I’m probably

peace with the fact that you

just a gateway dairy product.

pressure, something where

too old to take up aerobics

can’t live where I live, eat

Before I knew it, I was also

my absence would be noted,

anyway. Probably best if I

sensibly and exercise on a

joining Harvey in his nightly

something like the aerobics

just drop the whole health

regular basis. Thank God I’m

ice cream ritual, and we’re

classes I took in Atlanta.

club idea.

a country girl. Otherwise I’d

not talking that low-fat frozen

Nevertheless, I made the

sugar was a healthier choice

Naturally, it wasn’t long

Then again, I could

I suppose I should be

have no excuse whatsoever. n

www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 13

biz bits Business news from around the state By kathy finn

Announcements of

to produce plastics, textiles,

new projects and business

paint and plywood. The plant

expansions continue to occur

is expected to employ 63

regularly across Louisiana.

workers with a spinoff impact

Here are a few highlights of

of 375 additional jobs.

the past few months.

Groundbreaking for a new culinary arts instruction building at Nicholls State University

Jobs on the way in Pointe Coupee LETTSWORTH – A Baton

Belgian company to hire 200 in Capital City BATON ROUGE – A Belgium-

and development space,

Rouge native brought good

based logistics company has

employees and vendors can

experience in building giant

news to Pointe Coupee Parish

announced plans to build a

collaborate on new offerings

fuel tanks for space shuttles

with the announcement that

$150 million plastics storage,

for CenturyLink customers.

comes in handy as Lockheed

BioNitrogen Corp. of Doral,

custom packaging and distri-

Completion of the technology

Martin Corp. invests $3

Fla., plans to invest $1.25

bution facility for producers

center and previously

million to retrofit its eastern

billion to develop five plants

of petrochemical products in

announced projects will push

New Orleans plant where it

near Lettsworth to convert

Baton Rouge. Officials with

CenturyLink’s statewide

soon will produce liquefied

agricultural waste into

Katoen Natie USA say the

annual payroll past $200

natural gas tanks. The 90-foot-

fertilizer. Company President

plant will employ about 200

million, with some 2,600

long cryogenic tanks initially

Bryan Kornegay Jr., who

people at polymer terminals,

people employed in the

will store and carry the gas as

grew up in the capital city,

warehouses and distribution

Monroe area by 2016.

fuel for the maritime industry.

said the plants would employ

facilities that will support

The work will employ about

some 260 people in operations

petrochemical and specialty

170 people. The combined

that use tree scraps and waste

chemical producers in the

activity will nearly fill the

from sawmills and sugar cane

region. The company’s plans

Culinary institute preserves past, future THIBODAUX – A new culinary

Michoud Assembly Facility,

bagasse to produce nitrogen-

include developing tie-ins

arts instruction building at

whose future appeared dim

based fertilizer for U.S.

to the Kansas City Southern

Nicholls State University

a few years ago when the

farmers. The company aims to

Railway and Canadian

named for one of Louisiana’s

last space shuttle tank was

begin construction next year.

National Railroad, potentially

best-known chefs aims to

becoming one of the few

teach future generations

facilities of its kind with dual

about the art of Cajun

railway access.

and Creole cooking while

A tank is a tank, Lockheed Martin says NEW ORLEANS – Its

completed.

Industry bulks up along river corridor ST. JAMES PARISH – The

Where natural gas morphs into gasoline LAKE CHARLES – Plans by Houston-based G2X Energy

a network operations center and spaces where

preparing students for jobs.

already-bustling industrial

to convert natural gas to

corridor along the lower

gasoline could mean nearly

CenturyLink adds elbow room MONROE – North Louisiana

Mississippi River recently got

250 new jobs in southwestern

economic stalwart

of skilled workers and

yet another boost from the

Louisiana. The company

CenturyLink recently broke

perpetuate the state’s culinary

announcement that South

recently announced it will

ground on the Fortune 500

heritage.

Louisiana Methanol will

build a $1.3 billion plant at

company’s new Technology

build a $1.3 billion plant in

the Port of Lake Charles,

Center of Excellence,

feature four teaching

St. James Parish, across the

taking advantage of the

a 250,000-square-foot

kitchens, a bistro-style

river from the Nucor Corp.

Calcasieu River Ship Channel

expansion of the telecom-

restaurant with two dining

steel plant currently under

for distribution of the end

munications company’s

rooms, a cultural research

construction. The methanol

product. G2X is leasing 200

corporate headquarters in

center, classrooms and a

plant, billed as the largest in

acres at the site and says it

Monroe. The project will

commissary. The state has

North America, will convert

will have the flexibility of

help fulfill the company’s

committed $8.1 million of the

natural gas into some 5,000

shipping gasoline by pipeline

2011 announcement of an

$12.6 million total cost, with

metric tons of methanol

or ocean-going vessels.

800-job expansion. The new

the university supporting the

center will house research

remainder of the cost.

each day. Methanol is used 14 | Louisiana Life May/June 2013

The Chef John Folse Culinary Institute will give Louisiana’s hospitality industry a pipeline

The new building will

Photo courtesy of Louisiana Seafood Board

health By eve kidd crawford Rare Surgery Saves Newborn SHREVEPORT – In late

mother and her child.”

February, Brendicianna

technicians gathered in a

Turner was having what was

large surgery suite at LSU

supposed to be a routine

Medical Center on Feb. 27.

ultrasound when doctors

The OB team first delivered

noticed that her son, who

the head and partial

was at full term, had an

shoulders of the baby via

underdeveloped jaw. “I

cesarean. Next, Ghali and

a press release, Lafayette

thought I might have seen

his team worked to establish

General Medical Center

only just a little tiny bit of

an airway – while the baby

Chief Operating Officer

bone,” obstetrician and

is still receiving oxygen

Patrick W. Gandy accepted

Lakeview Regional To Offer Emergency Transfers COVINGTON – In collabora-

clinical professor of OB Rose

from the mother, there is a

the award, saying, “Our

tion with Lagniappe Transfer

Brouillette said in a press

90-minute window to put

process is among the best in

Center, Lakeview Regional

release. “It was very bad.”

a tube down the baby’s

the state because of the team

Medical Center now offers

tiny throat to establish an

effort from our incredible

emergency transfer services.

Ghali, an oral and maxillofa-

airway. After Ghali was

physicians and staff here at

The two entities will work

cial surgeon who specializes

unable to get a tube in, he

Lafayette General.”

together to coordinate all

in craniofacial deformities.

and his team performed a

LOPA said that in 2012

“Due to a severe lower jaw

tracheotomy instead. The

Lafayette General had the

patients from one health care

deformity, the infant would

time from the start of the

third-most organ donations

facility to another.

not have been able to breathe

cesarean to the completion

in the state and the most

on his own …” Ghali said.

of the tracheotomy was less

among hospitals with fewer

release, the ability to make

than 450 beds.

these transfers illustrates

Brouillette called Dr. G.E.

In all, more than 50 doctors, nurses and medical

aspects of transferring

According to a press

Together, Brouillette and

than 10 minutes. After the

Ghali decided that the baby’s

tracheotomy, the obstetrics

best chance for survival was

team finished delivering

Bank honored Lafayette

to outlying areas; when a

a rare procedure known

Donavan Turner, and he was

General with its Hospital

patient requires a higher level

as Ex-Utero Intrapartum

immediately taken to the

of the Year award for its

of care, Lagniappe Transfer

Treatment, or EXIT, which

Neonatal Intensive Care Unit.

“exemplary support and care

Center will work with the

to grieving families as they

patient’s current facility to

make end-of-life decisions

ensure a safe and fast transfer

for their loved ones.” In 2012,

to Lakeview Regional.

umbilical cord. Fewer than six

Lafayette General Exceeds Average of Organ Donation LAFAYETTE – April was

57 families make cornea

Lakeview Regional, said

of these surgeries have been

National Donate Life Month,

and tissue donations, which

that in situations such as

performed in Shreveport; it

and Lafayette General

in turn helped 62 other

trauma, cardiac, surgical and

was Ghali’s third. Only a few

Medical Center held a press

families receive the gift of

stroke-related conditions,

medical centers in the country

conference in the lobby to

sight. “Saving and restoring

the availability of efficient

perform EXIT procedures at all.

celebrate “donor heroes”

eyesight falls in line with

patient transfer is critical.

and honor its commitment

Lafayette General’s mission

“We understand acute

the safest way to secure the

to and involvement in

‘To Restore, Maintain and

patient care and are sensitive

child’s airway,” Ghali said.

registered organ, tissue and

Improve Health,’” Gandy said.

to the needs of the family, as

“With the help of a well-

cornea donations.

Lafayette General flew the

well,” Kolman said. “When a

allows doctors to perform life-saving surgery while the baby is still in the womb and attached to the mother via the

“The EXIT procedure was

organized team consisting of

The Louisiana Organ

In addition, Southern Eye

Lafayette General helped

the hospital’s commitment

Bret Kolman, CEO of

Donate Life flag in front of

patient’s condition warrants

obstetrics and gynecology,

Procurement Agency, or

the hospital for the month of

a transfer to Lakeview from

oral and maxillofacial surgery,

LOPA, presented Lafayette

April in honor of Acadiana’s

another facility, we are

anesthesiology, neonatology,

General with the Medal of

organ and tissue donors,

able to offer this transfer

respiratory therapy, nursing

Honor for exceeding the

transplant recipients and

service. It reinforces our

and operating room

national average of organ

their families.

commitment to the highest

personnel, we were able

donation with a consent rate

level of health care possible

to safely care for both the

of 95 percent. According to

for our community.”

16 | Louisiana Life May/June 2013

great louisiana chefs Nikkei Sauce: 1 tablespoon soy sauce 1 teaspoon aji amarillo paste 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard 1 1/2 teaspoons fresh-squeezed lime juice Combine all ingredients in a mixing bowl, and whisk together. For the Chayote-Coconut Relish: 1 chayote (mirliton) 1/2 cup red bell pepper, seeded and finely julienned 1/4 cup red onion, finely julienned 2 tablespoons coconut milk 2 tablespoons canned grated coconut 1 tablespoon white vinegar 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon fresh ginger, grated Salt, pepper and chile flakes, to taste Cut the chayote into quarters. Cut out the core, and slice the remainder on a mandoline at about the width of a house key. Combine all ingredients, and refrigerate for 20 minutes.

Miles Prescott Executive Chef of RioMar, New Orleans

Chef Miles Prescott earned his cooking chops working for some of the country’s top chefs. He is now serving as the executive chef at RioMar, where he continues to build upon his deep interest in Spanish-influenced cuisine.

Louisiana Black Drum With Gulf Shrimp, Maduro Relleno, Chayote-Coconut Slaw and Salsa Criolla For the relleno: 4 maduros (ripe plantains), peeled 5 Louisiana Gulf shrimp (36/40 count), peeled and cleaned 1 1/2 tablespoons Nikkei sauce (recipe follows) Place the plantains between two sheets of parchment paper, and pound them flat. Form the mash into a rectangle. Poach the shrimp in boiling water for 2 minutes. Cool in an ice bath. When chilled, finely chop the shrimp. Remove the top sheet of parchment paper. Spread the chopped shrimp in a line across the center of the rectangle of mashed plantain. Pour the Nikkei sauce all over the mash. Using the bottom parchment paper as a sushi roller, fold the mash over the shrimp and form into a tube resembling a sushi roll. Twist in the ends to pack the roll tightly. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

For the Salsa Criolla: 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 red onion, julienned 1 1/2 tablespoons aji amarillo paste 2 tablespoons white vinegar 2/3 cups of fresh-squeezed lemon juice 1/8 bunch fresh cilantro Salt and pepper, to taste Sweat the red onion in extra-virgin olive oil over low heat until translucent. Put the softened onion and olive oil along with all of the ingredients except cilantro into the blender. Blend until smooth. Add the cilantro, and pulse a few times until the cilantro is chopped up. Season to taste, and refrigerate. For the fish: 3 tablespoons cooking oil 7-ounce fillet of black drum, with blood line and pin bones removed Salt and pepper, to taste 1 teaspoon butter Preheat the oven to 500 degrees. Add the cooking oil to a large sauté pan, and heat until the oil begins to smoke slightly. Season the fish with salt and pepper. Lay the fish into the pan. Cook for 30 seconds, and then add the butter. Immediately move the pan into the preheated 500 degree oven. Cook for 5 minutes. Fillet should be nearly cooked through but still a little raw on top. Remove the fish from the pan, and place it on a resting rack. To assemble: Place the relleno in a 350 degree fryer for 4 minutes. Remove, and sprinkle with salt. Cut the relleno in half, and place in the center of the serving plate. Encircle the relleno with salsa criolla. Reheat the sauté pan. Place the fish, raw side down, into the pan, and finish cooking it. Remove it from the pan, and place it, brown side up, on top of the relleno. Top with the chayotecoconut relish. n cheryl gerber photograph

18 | Louisiana Life May/June 2013

www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 19

state of the plate

Dining and Dancing Ruby’s Restaurant and Courtyard in Eunice | Cajun dancing is

By Ian McNulty

Ruby’s is a family-style

what’s on the plate that usually

hungry work, though happily

Cajun restaurant where

wherever people are doing a

people tend to leave with

waltz or two-step, good food is

leftovers and where it’s hard

(seafood or chicken-and-

usually nearby.

to imagine anyone leaving

sausage), which are joined

less than stuffed. It’s a place

by an uncommon seafood

on Saturday evenings in

for appetizers the whole table

chowder mixing oysters and

downtown Eunice, that farm

needs to split, for straight-

shrimp in a white base as

town and hub of Acadian

forward steaks, for poor

thick as a sauce. You won’t

culture out on the Cajun

boys and for platters of local

be surprised by fried gator

prairie. Each week, people

seafood with étouffée used as

and catfish on this appetizer

line up in front of the vintage

a sauce and cheese applied

list, though the charbroiled

Liberty Theatre for tickets to

by the fistful.

oysters and barbecued shrimp

That’s certainly the case

commands full attention. There’s a choice of gumbos

the Rendez-Vous des Cajuns.

This Ruby’s was opened

This long-running live show,

last summer by the owners

style than we usually find on

broadcast on local radio and

of Ruby’s Café, a diner just

the prairie. But what really

television, has musical guests;

around the corner. The

stand out are the almond

bilingual commentary from the

restaurant is new, but its

shrimp, which are coated in a

evening’s host; and a format

address has quite a history.

spicy-sweet Asian-style glaze

following in the tradition

Until recently it was called

and arrive on a platter of slaw

of the Grand Ole Opry, the

Nick’s on Second, and Nick’s

strewn with slivered almonds.

Louisiana Hayride and even A

went back to 1937 when Nick

Fried mushrooms, stuffed

Prairie Home Companion.

Ferro and Blackie Guillory

with seafood dressing until

first opened it. Initially, this

they’re the size of golf balls,

performance wraps up

Nick’s was a barroom where

also make an appearance.

(around 7:30 p.m.), people

men would convene for

start looking for dinner.

games of dominoes and the

platters, a few pastas and

These days, that leads many

Cajun card game bourré.

entrée salads and those steaks

After this early evening

of them just two blocks up

The courtyard referenced in

are a little more New Orleans-

Fried shrimp and catfish

and poor boys make up a lot

Second Street, the zigzagging

the name is a mid-size events

of the menu, while some of

main drag, past a pool hall,

space attached to Ruby’s main

the specialties plumb the great

a coffee shop and some

dining room, a long, narrow

contemporary Cajun zeal

storefront offices, to Ruby’s

space with a sort of homey

for mixing various kinds of

Restaurant and Courtyard.

country store look. But it’s

seafood and capping it all with

20 | Louisiana Life May/June 2013

cheese and rich sauces. Both the seafood enchilada and the seafood crêpes emit a blend of plump shrimp and sweet crab bound up with enough creamy goodness to make these fillings resemble a seafood dip. Meanwhile, the Seafood Dot brings big fried shrimp curled over a casserole dish of molten, bubbling shrimpand-crab au gratin. A slab of grilled red snapper gets the au gratin treatment, too. This is not exactly delicate cuisine. Instead, Ruby’s menu sits at the intersection of abundant seafood and an exuberant approach to dressing it up for hungry diners. That makes it one Cajun rendezvous you shouldn’t miss. Ed. Note: With this issue we introduce “State of the Plate,” which will provide reviews and commentary on worthy restaurants throughout the state. Ian McNulty has written about food for several publications and also appears on television and radio. His books include Louisiana Rambles, a guidebook to the state. n

Ruby’s Restaurant and Courtyard 123 S. Second St., Eunice (337) 550-7665 Lunch Monday-Friday, dinner Wednesday-Saturday Thomas Trosclair photographs

www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 21

traveling gourmet

Vine Time In praise of the honest tomato By Stanley Dry

It’s tomato season again, and for the next couple of months, we can indulge

what might have been. But when you taste an honest

one of our favorite passions.

tomato – an old variety that

But cookbooks are often

has ripened on the vine, with a

confusing for those of us who

taste that holds sweetness and

live in Louisiana. I can’t count

acidity in perfect balance – all

how many times I’ve read the

those memories come flooding

admonition that a recipe should

back and you think that there

only be made in late summer

could be nothing finer, more

when tomatoes are in peak

delicious or awe-inspiring than

season. That’s good advice

that warm tomato eaten out of

for those who live in northern

hand. For the brief time when

sections of the country, but by

our tomatoes are in season,

then our weather will be too hot

you eat them throughout the

for tomatoes. So now is the time

day for their utter delicious-

to seize the day.

ness – and perhaps with a hope

Proust had a madeleine to jog his memory, but if your parents or a neighbor tended

of recapturing the pleasures of your past. For the most part, no recipes

a garden, your muse is likely a

are needed in order to enjoy

ripe red tomato that you twisted

local tomatoes. All you need

off the vine and ate on the spot,

is some coarse salt and, if you

juice dripping off your chin

wish, a few grinds of the pepper

and running down your arm. A

mill. Or make a sandwich with

sprinkle of salt would have been

crusty bread, mayonnaise and

a welcome addition, but since

sliced tomatoes. Or build your

you were sweating profusely

sandwich on French bread

from the heat, your lips, which

liberally doused with olive oil

were already salty, probably

and layered with tomatoes, fresh

provided all the seasoning you

mozzarella and basil leaves. Or,

needed.

yet again, combine tomatoes

The details in those memories

with olive oil and the cucumbers

either grow dim or else they

and bell peppers that are also in

multiply with imagined embel-

season for an utterly delicious

lishments over the years, but

and refreshing salad.

run-of-the-mill commercial

eugenia uhl photograph

sadness and disappointment for

But when you have an

tomatoes picked green and

abundance of tomatoes from the

ripened with gas aren’t sufficient

garden or the farmers market,

to call up the past. There is

there are many tasty ways to

neither joy nor memory in

make the most of your bounty.

a supermarket tomato, only

Here are a few of them.

www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 23

Tomatoes Stuffed With Crabmeat

Tomato Pie

A quick and easy way to enjoy two of the season’s tastiest ingredients. No cooking required.

A savory pastry topped with fresh herbs, this simple dish is in tune with the season.

4 medium tomatoes 2 cups crabmeat 6 tablespoons mayonnaise 4 teaspoons chopped parsley 4 teaspoons snipped chives 2 teaspoons lemon juice Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper Cayenne pepper

1 cup all-purpose flour 1/2 teaspoon salt 6 tablespoons cold butter 3 to 4 tablespoons ice-cold water 1 to 3 ripe tomatoes, depending on size 1 tablespoon olive oil Pinch coarse salt 3 tablespoons snipped chives 1/4 cup flat Italian parsley leaves 10 to 12 basil leaves

Cut off the tops of the tomatoes, and, using a small spoon, scoop out the pulp and seeds. Lightly salt the tomatoes, and turn them upside-down on paper towels to drain for 30 minutes. Combine the crabmeat, mayonnaise, parsley, chives and lemon juice. Season to taste with salt, black pepper and cayenne. Stuff the tomatoes with crabmeat, mounding the tops. Serves 4.

Tomato Fritters The South is well-known for its devotion to fried green tomatoes, but ripe tomatoes can also be battered and fried. The result, which is very different from frying the green variety, is quite delicious in its own right. 4 medium, firm tomatoes 1 cup low-gluten, self-rising flour, such as White Lily 2 egg yolks, beaten 1 cup cold sparkling water or club soda Vegetable oil for frying Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper Slice the tomatoes a half-inch thick, and, using a small spoon, remove the seeds and soft pulp. Place the tomato slices between paper towels to dry. Combine the flour, egg yolks and sparkling water, and mix lightly with a fork. The batter will be lumpy. Pour oil about a quarter-inch deep in a frying pan, and heat. Dip the tomato slices in the batter, and fry, without crowding, until browned, about 90 seconds. Turn the fritters, and cook on the other side until browned, about 1 minute. Remove the fritters, and drain on paper towels. Repeat with the remaining tomato slices, adding additional oil if needed. Season with salt and pepper. Serves 4.

24 | Louisiana Life May/June 2013

In a mixing bowl, whisk the flour and salt to combine. Cut the butter into small pieces, and add it to the bowl. Using a pastry cutter or two knives, cut the butter into the flour until it resembles coarse meal. Add the water 1 tablespoon at a time, mixing it in with a fork, until dough forms. Turn the dough out onto a floured surface, form into a ball, and press into a disc. Wrap in wax paper or plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or overnight. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Slice the tomatoes a half-inch thick, and place the tomato slices between paper towels to dry. On a floured surface, roll out the dough to fit an 8- or 9-inch pie pan. Position the dough in the pan, and cut off excess dough. Place the tomato slices in the pan to cover the dough. Bake on the bottom shelf of the preheated oven until the crust is nicely browned, about 20 to 25 minutes. Remove the pie to a cooling rack for 20 to 30 minutes. Drizzle the tomatoes with olive oil, and sprinkle with coarse salt. Scatter the chives, parsley and basil over the tomatoes. Serve warm or at room temperature. Serves 6.

Maque Choux Sometimes written as “maquechou” or “maque-choux,” the origins of this dish are as uncertain as its spelling, and I have yet to see a convincing explanation for the name. Regardless, it is a delicious way to use the tomatoes, corn and bell peppers that are in season now. Many families make it in bulk and freeze portions for the coming year. 4 tablespoons butter 1 large onion, chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 bell pepper, seeded and chopped 4 cups corn 2 medium tomatoes, chopped Coarse salt and cayenne pepper In a heavy casserole, melt the butter and cook the onion, garlic and bell pepper until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the corn and tomatoes; season with salt and cayenne; cover; and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the corn is tender, about 10 minutes. Adjust seasonings. Serves 4 to 6.

www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 25

home

A Place Called Perique This River Road Creole home is a gem among the mansions. By Bonnie Warren | Photographed by Craig Macaluso

Michael Hopping

was built some time between

cotton and perique tobacco

has a special apprecia-

house the first time I saw it,”

1835 and 1840. Florian and

were grown here. There

tion for his historic Creole

says the landscape designer,

Julie Brignac purchased it in

was even a sugar mill on the

raised home that hugs the

who is well-known as a

1863 at a sheriff’s sale. Here

property for over 100 years,

Mississippi River in Paulina,

historical authority on the

the couple raised 15 children

and records show that it also

a quaint community in St.

gardens of Louisiana. “I could

and operated a successful

had its own cotton gin.

James Parish just 8 miles

tell it was a fine authentic

plantation. Only a few other

upriver from San Francisco

structure. Even the enormous

owners surface in the history

before Hurricane Katrina

Plantation. Hopping’s home

hand-hewn blocks of cypress

of the property.

and signed a purchase

isn’t a huge mansion in the

supporting the house were

“I fell in love with this

“I found the property just

“Although it was always

agreement two weeks before

genre of some of the other

intriguing to me. After years

a small operation compared

the destructive hurricane hit.

plantations that front the

of searching for just the right

to the grand River Road

The sale was delayed because

Mississippi. Yet it boasts

historic house to purchase, I

plantations, it’s every bit as

the owner’s home in New

just as much history and

knew this was the one.”

much a plantation as the big

Orleans had major damage

ones,” Hopping explains.

from Katrina and the family

“Over the years sugar cane,

moved to Paulina until they

importance as its grand sisters. 26 | Louisiana Life May/June 2013

Located in a pastoral setting of 6 acres, the home

found another house to

he says earnestly, “and I

purchase 15 months later. I

wanted to take my time and

had to wait until November

do everything just right.”

2006 to actually go to the act of sale.” Once Hopping owned

Today Perique is a showplace on the historic River Road. “I have no

the property, he decided

regrets about purchasing

to rename it Perique after

this house,” Hopping says.

the tobacco crop that had

“I still marvel at the fine

thrived on the land. “Locals

bones of the building. It is

called the property ‘Little

solid to the core, and while

Texas’ because it was said

the renovation was a great

that a Texas regiment

undertaking, it is definitely

camped there during the

the house I always wanted

Civil War,” he says. “The

to own.”

name was local lore that I

Standing on the levee

was never able to substan-

separating the property

tiate, so I took the liberty of

from the Mississippi River,

giving it a new name.”

Perique presents a perfect

It has taken six years

picture of the past. Cows

for Hopping to completely

graze in the pasture beyond

restore the house and

the historic house, further

furnish it in keeping with

adding to the picture-

the period. “I love the

perfect pastoral setting.

simplicity of this house,”

“There’s a special serenity

FACING PAGE: Located in a pastoral setting on 6 acres fronting historic River Road in Paulina, Perique, a raised Creole plantation home, was built between 1835 and 1840. TOP: Michael Hopping BOTTOM: Appointed with heirlooms collected over the years, the dining room adjoins the drawing room.

. www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 27

TOP: Furnished in fine antiques, the study opens onto the broad gallery. BOTTOM: The view from the front door of the drawing room shows the lush lawn, front gate and picket fence. Decorated in keeping with the period of the house, the room displays the timelessness of the home. FACING PAGE, TOP: The historic bed in the master bedroom came from Bocage Plantation. An antique black teddy bear has a place of honor on the bed. FACING PAGE, BOTTOM: Although the kitchen is new, Hopping wanted it to blend seamlessly with the rest of the house. The 1795 table is like the ones used in the Ursuline Convent. 28 | Louisiana Life May/June 2013

here that I enjoy,” Hopping

and I will finally have my

will be something simple

rocking chair on the porch

says. “The only excitement

garden in place. I know it

and in keeping with the

with a cup of coffee and

around here is when we

is strange for a landscape

serene setting. There isn’t

marvel at my good fortune

build bonfires on the levee

designer to only have a

any need to be in a hurry

to own Perique.”

to celebrate Christmas.”

sweeping lawn, but I am

here. Life is easy. The birds

And he hastens to add:

not in a hurry to do a

sing, the camellia bushes

at Perique, call (225)

“Come back in a few years,

garden, and when I do, it

bloom, and I sit in a

802-2141. N

For tours or functions

www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 29

art first. She preferred to paint figures. Then came Italy and its architecture, food, villages and nuances of life. Although her eyes often scanned the Italian countryside, she truly didn’t see its beauty until a 1979 train ride across northern Italy. Her eyes and thoughts were buried in Hardy’s dark novel Tess of the D’Urbervilles when she came upon a passage describing the sun-blazed fields and the dark, brooding English countryside. She went on to read of a valley where the “atmosphere beneath is languorous, and is so tinged with azure that what artists call the middle distance partakes also of that hue, while the horizon beyond is of the deepest ultramarine.” She looked up from the book and through the train window saw for the first time the beauty of the Italian landscape. Since that awakening on the train, Johnson has created an impressive body of paintings, exploring both the Italian and South Louisiana landscapes, many of which can be found in corporate collections and museums such as the New Orleans Museum of Art, the LSU Museum of Art and the Louisiana Art & Science

Libby and Tess

Museum in Baton Rouge.

An artist’s awakening | By John R. Kemp

but eventually create a sense

Her work strives to capture the drama between heavily clouded and roiling skies and dark wooded landscapes that seem menacing at first of peace. “I immediately started

“Behind him the hills

colourless.” In this simple line

to paint landscapes, Johnson

exploring landscape ideas

are open, the sun blazes down

published in 1891, the 19th-

turned to her brushes and

when I got home, and I am

upon fields so large as to give

century British novelist and

imagination. Born and raised

still at it,” she says, reflecting

an unenclosed character to

poet Thomas Hardy changed

in Baton Rouge, Johnson was

upon that special train trip. “I

the landscape, the lanes are

the life of Baton Rouge artist

keenly aware of the region’s

currently concentrate more

white, the hedges low and

Libby Johnson.

varied landscape. But as an

on my home environment.

artist, it didn’t interest her at

The darkness and mystery of

plashed, the atmosphere 30 | Louisiana Life May/June 2013

Where Hardy used words

the landscape interests me more now.” From early childhood, Johnson wanted to be an artist. “I asked for an oil painting set for my 10th birthday,” she recalls. “When I got it, I sat down to do a masterful Dutch portrait in the tradition of Rembrandt. When all I came up with was a canvas full of muddy globs of paint, I became upset, and my mother found a teacher for me. I studied with Henrietta Joseph Yoder for a good while and learned the art of painting portraits.” She later continued her studies at LSU where she received bachelor’s and master’s degrees in art. In graduate school, the

Orleans; and Florence, Italy.

taught me a great deal by the

her to explore her art in

acclaimed Louisiana artist

During those travels, various

way she splinters light on

rural landscapes of Italy and

and art professor Robert

artists past and present

objects and how she could

South Louisiana. “I crave

Warrens pushed her to be

have influenced her work.

turn objects into shimmering

the experience of other

more innovative in her work.

“I learned to paint Italian

pieces of separate abstract

places,” she says. “But here,

Another professor, Edward

landscapes by looking at

shapes and colors. Edward

where there is always a

Pramuk, “helped me bust out

those surrounding the figures

Hopper is responsible for

sense of something unseen

of a color funk I was in. It

in Giovanni Bellini’s work.

first giving me a passion for

happening below the surface

worked beautifully, and I have

I learned to push light by

intense color.”

of our dark and humid

never gone back.”

studying the paintings of

Yet it was a 19th-century

environs, there is a powerful

Over the years, Johnson

George Inness. The American

English poet and novelist,

mystery found nowhere

has lived in New York; New

realist painter Janet Fish has

not a painter, who inspired

else. It fuels an unconscious, free-flowing and sustaining element in all my work.” Unlike painters who paint what they see before them, Johnson’s landscapes are composites based on photographs of dramatic cloud formations and the way light plays on a bayou tree line. “I combine photographic images to make a new idea,” she explains. “They incorporate things that would never really be found in nature. I build composite photographs with overlays as points of departure. My paintings are all about color reactions. I have to see how colors react to one another. For instance, the light sources in the paintings are often coming from several sources

www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 31

to make visual sensations

the bugs and nature. It’s all

studio surrounded by paint-

being.” One can only imagine

around the composition

about the smells, the humidity,

brushes, tubes of paint,

what might not have been

rather than being true to

the vastness of air and the

walls lined with finished and

had Johnson not taken that

nature.” She gathers most

difference between you and

partially completed paintings

train trip across northern

of her images at City Park

what you’re painting. You

and bookcases filled with

Italy with Thomas Hardy and

in New Orleans; around the

get into this meditation when

books and educational

Tess of the D’Urbervilles as

LSU lakes in Baton Rouge;

you paint in the landscape.

videos, Johnson reflects

travel companions.

and on Avery Island, which

Everything becomes part of

upon her work and life as an

she describes as the “most

you. Those elements you are

artist: “I cannot imagine not

Libby Johnson, visit

magical place on earth.”

painting are acting on you at

creating art. It is part of my

libbyjohnson.com. N

Although Johnson works primarily in her studio,

the same time.” Even the shapes of her

she occasionally leaves the

paintings often reflect her

controlled atmosphere of

perceptions of nature and

her studio to paint plein-air

art. In the mid-1990s she

on location. “I venture into

began painting landscapes on

the landscape, especially

wooden panels with arches.

when I travel in Italy and in

They reminded her of the

Louisiana when the weather is

magnificent Renaissance

good,” she says. “I make tiny

altar paintings so prolific in

paintings that have their own

the ancient churches and

identity and are not studies for

cathedrals of Italy. The arched

making larger works later in

tops also reflect her view of

my studio. They are finished

the natural world with its

works in themselves. If you

“mythological dome above us

are a landscape painter, you

in the sky.”

have to get out there and feel 32 | Louisiana Life May/June 2013

Sitting in her spacious

To learn more about

www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 33

traveler nearest Audubon Society can

Boardwalk sunset

provide details). Withal, it’s a full year of constantly changing scenery, activity and life, for the wildlife and for us. The 180-mile primary route of the Creole Nature Trail is U-shaped Louisiana 27, which departs Interstate 10 at two spots, heads south through (occasionally) dry land and freshwater marsh to the Intracoastal Waterway and then moves onward through brackish marshes to the Gulf of Mexico where it junctions with B. LaFleur photo

beachfront Louisiana 82 for

Scenic Route

20 miles before heading north again. The spurs are those Gulf Coast stretches of 82 that lead west from the primary route to the Sabine River and east from the main trail to the Rockefeller Wildlife Preserve. Plan on at least a four-hour drive for the central route, which with the

Cycles of life along the Creole Nature Trail | by Paul F. Stahls Jr.

spurs can grow to eight or more. Ready? OK. First gather cameras, binoculars, a Wild

the Creole Nature Trail offers

– to recoup in the marshlands

Louisiana Stamp (from Wildlife

From the farthest corner of

by far the easiest and best

before dispersing for their

& Fisheries, not necessary

Louisiana, it’s only four hours

introduction to our Gulf Coast.

summer vacations throughout

for holders of hunting/fishing

North America.

licenses) and bug spray (mostly

Road trip! to a destination that attracts

These wetlands are teeming

nature-lovers from the

all year long with non-migra-

The remaining months of

for evening hours), and then

farthest corners of America.

tory birds; amphibians; reptiles;

spring and summer are great

visit CreoleNatureTrail.org to

The Creole Nature Trail –

and, of course, fur-bearing

for gator-watching; photo-

question its Interactive Map

among the first of the U.S.

critters such as muskrats, otters

graphing fur-bearers (with

about specific sights and to

Department of the Interior’s

and mink – of great importance

a zoom and some luck); or

download its Creole Nature

150 National Scenic Byways

and certainly fun to spot in

crawfishing, crab-netting and

Trail app. Don’t think, however,

– has now been promoted to

the wild, even though it’s the

fishing from roadsides and

that these are a substitute for

All-American Road status, one

spring migration of birds and

levee tops. Some folks even reel

your essential first stop on

of only 34 in the nation, and

butterflies that gets all the press

in big Gulf fish from beachfront

North Lakeshore Drive in Lake

together its central route and

from February to early May.

piers, but I think I’m jinxed.

Charles, where the visitors

spurs traverse the Southwest

After all, it’s hard to top the

Louisiana Wildlife Complex,

drama of innumerable species

birds and butterflies pass this

National Wildlife Refuge

ranked as an Internationally

arriving wave upon wave

way again, ready for their

brochures and bird/wildlife

Important Bird Area.

after the astonishing 600-mile

flight back across the Gulf, just

checklists, of course, but also

nonstop flight across the Gulf

as the geese and ducks are

the loan of a handheld video

swamps, river valleys and

of Mexico or the phenomenon

flying south to spend winter

device called the GPS Ranger

coastal marshlands are all as

of exhausted songbirds

here. Also flocking in will be

that will track your progress

different in flora and wildlife

dropping like hail into the first

avid birders from across the

and recite the features and

as they are in appearance. You

clusters of trees they see – the

continent, come to enjoy the

activities of each point of

can’t claim to know your state

oak-covered ridges called

semi-competitive events called

interest as you go.

till you’ve seen them all, and

cheniers strewn along the coast

Winter Bird Counts (your

Louisiana’s hills, prairies,

34 | Louisiana Life May/June 2013

In fall and winter the small

bureau will provide trail maps,

I-10’s two intersections

areas for crabbing, fishing

miles southeast via Louisiana

and picnicking along 27,

397/14/27 to Cameron Prairie

but of prime importance for

National Wildlife Refuge), and

wildlife-sighting at Sabine

Exit 20 west of Lake Charles at

are the elevated walkways

Louisiana 27 in Sulphur, which

and observation decks at

will be our starting point today

Hog Island Gully, Blue Goose

because … oh, just force of habit.

Trail (reaching all the way to

For a last look at a city

big Calcasieu Lake) and the

before the gators get you, turn

1-mile roadside loop called the

north on 27 (Ruth Street) and

Wetland Walkway.

fork left on Huntington to the

Leaving the Sabine, you’ll

Brimstone Museum. Sulphur

be nearing the actual Gulf

was named for a nearby sulfur

Coast, and you’ll notice the

dome where Herman Frasch,

colors of freshwater plants and

a German immigrant, devised

greener grasses fading to more

a method of mining brimstone

somber browns as the salinity

that revolutionized the industry

increases. When 27 reaches

worldwide, and the museum

the Gulf at Holly Beach, the

features a film with vivid

main route turns east on

footage of the Frasch Process

Louisiana 82/27 to follow the

in action: melting the sulfur

seashore, but be aware that

with steam far below-ground

some of Holly Beach’s camp

for pumping to the surface.

houses can be rented, and the

Southward lie marshlands

visitors bureau in Lake Charles

and the sea, a prospect that

(337-436-9588) can provide

somehow always makes me

phone numbers for these and

hungry, but fortunately it’s just

others along the coast. The

18 miles down 27 (crossing the

82 West spur, for instance,

busy Intracoastal Waterway

leads 8.5 miles to Gulf View

and entering Cameron Parish)

Road, where shiny-new cabins

to Hackberry, made famous by

are clustered just outside

the Hackberry Ramblers and

the Baton Rouge Audubon

by (nota bene) Brown’s Food

Society’s Peveto Woods Bird &

Center. More than a grocery,

Butterfly Sanctuary – a chenier

Brown’s opens at 5 a.m. for

that becomes quite popular

fishermen and early-bird trail-

during spring migrations.

riders who stop for their day’s

Heading back from Peveto,

takeouts (plate lunches, poor

notice the monument at the

boys, deli sandwiches and

new (well-elevated) Cameron

boudin) plus all the essentials

Parish Library. Created in

for fishing and crabbing.

2012 by sculptor Jerry Gorum

Anne Taber Klenke photo

and mink. You’ll find recreation

which you would zigzag 17

Victor Monsour photo

and turtles to otters, muskrats

just east of Lake Charles (from

Bill Turnbull photo

with the big “U” are Exit 36

Sandhill cranes

Marsh otter

Now it’s 8 miles south

of Glenmora, it depicts the

to Sabine National Wildlife

waterfowl, fish, wildlife and

Refuge, 124,511 acres of coastal

shrimp boats of the region, all

prairie and marsh (freshwater,

emerging, appropriately, from

seat of Cameron Parish, by

the year, January’s Louisiana

intermediate and brackish),

a big bronze book.

way of what’s likely to be the

Fur and Wildlife Festival,

shortest ferry ride of your

with music, amusements and

established in 1937 to protect

Back on the main route, the

Roseate spoonbills

the habitat of migratory ducks

shore east of Holly Beach can

life. Head for the railing with

great food, of course, but also

and geese and all species of

be white with sand or partially

your camera, though, because

competitions in wetland skills

covered with seaweed that

this Calcasieu Ship Channel is

such as retriever dog trials;

wade, slither, walk and fly,

washes in from time to time

jumping with porpoises and

skeet-shooting; trap-setting;

from raptors, snowy and

(also bringing a fresh layer of

alive with birds.

and, yes, muskrat-skinning.

great egrets, cormorants,

seashells for beachcombers),

alligators, blue crabs, shrimp

and soon you’ll reach Cameron,

year-round residents that

In a state famed for festivals, Cameron boasts the first of

Year-round attractions include Airboats and Alligators

www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 35

B. LaFleur photo

Victor Monsour photo

at 1151 Oak Grove Highway,

short marsh grass, ponds, mud

Refuge, where Wildlife Drive

where an ATV-pulled cart

flats – and a million birds.

encircles shallow Lacassine

delivers you to the airboats and

It’s not impossible to see an

Pool with its gators, birds and

gator ponds (337-274-2395),

occasional whooping crane

furry fauna. Then, for a good

and the Cameron Jetty Pier

around Rockefeller, and back

comparison of marshlands and

Facility at 799 Davis Road,

on 27, heading up the eastern

typical Louisiana swamps, head

with its playground; RV park;

side of the “U,” you’ll pass,

back up to 14, and drive 8 miles

observation tower; elevated

above Cameron Prairie National

east to Louisiana 3056, 4 miles

walkway to the beach; and,

Wildlife Refuge, pastures

south to Streeter Road and 2

best of all, its spacious pier

sometimes visited by sandhill

miles west to Lacassine head-

complex projecting into the

cranes, hundreds of them,

quarters where boardwalks

Gulf where you can snag

looking to be nearly 4 feet tall.

and tower reveal the beauty of

tarpon, snapper, wahoo and all their friends (337-775-2800). East of Cameron you must

Cameron Prairie, maintained to provide natural foods for resident and migrating

a cypress-tupelo swamp of the Mermentau River basin. And now, oh, great

choose between curving now

waterfowl, is a wonderland

navigator, get home the best

onto the northward upswing

of geese, ducks and wading

of the Louisiana 27 “U” or

birds, of course, but also of

way you can! n G.W. “Bud” Willis, a master

first taking the trail’s 82 East

otter and other fur-bearers.

spur, which will pass famous

“Fishing roads” will entice you

Grand Chenier and smaller

as you pass through on 27, and

ridges on its way to Rockefeller

watch for the turn onto Pintail

Wildlife Refuge. Rockefeller is

Wildlife Drive, a popular 3-mile

credited with saving the once-

loop (auto and boardwalks)

endangered American alligator,

through the freshwater marsh.

and it’s still the go-to source

It’s 2 miles farther to the

of expertise for nurturing

visitor center, where you’ll be

crocodilian populations

entertained indoors by wildlife

around the world. Boaters

displays and a theater (where

can arrange for credentials

an animated Cajun grand-père

to explore that 76,000-acre

and grand-mère introduce

preserve (337-491-2593), and,

their beloved wetlands) and

three-quarters-of-a-mile west

outdoors by an elevated

of refuge headquarters, Price

walkway into a little freshwater

Lake Nature Drive is a prime

wonderland where you’ll

spot for fishing, crabbing and

probably see more roseate

shrimp-netting that actually

spoonbills at a glance than the

leads 3 miles (partway by foot)

total you’ve seen in your life.

into our very briniest of marsh.

Continue north on 27 to

Taller canes and grasses soon

Louisiana 14, which marks the

turn the pathway into a virtual

beginning of your final spur.

tunnel, but suddenly the cane

Take 14 east and Illinois Plant

disappears, leaving nothing

Road 4 miles south to enter

ahead but a dramatic vista of

Lacassine National Wildlife

36 | Louisiana Life May/June 2013

Great blue heron botanical photographer and lifelong friend and supporter of Briarwood (the Caroline Dormon Nature Preserve), contributed four of the wildflower photos shown in last issue’s Briarwood article but inadvertently was credited for only one. We regret the oversight and encourage readers to find more of his photography at willisfarm.net, the nursery farm on Lake Bistineau where he has cultivated native and heirloom shrubs and trees since retiring from Ochsner Hospital. Information on his “Saturday Markets,” Fruits & Nuts Catalog and newsletter can be requested at willisfarmnursery@gmail.com.

best bets War in the Wetlands: If you take the recommended Creole Nature Trail detour from Cameron down Davis Road to the Cameron Jetty Pier Facility, you’ll not only be following the last 3 miles of the Calcasieu River but also skirting the site of a battle fought here on May 6, 1864. A handsome obelisk at the Cameron Courthouse honors the 14 Confederates and eight Union Navy men who died during the Rebs’ capture of two Union gunboats here, and a new book by prolific Civil War writer Michael Dan Jones of Iowa, La., The Battle of Calcasieu Pass, gives a detailed account of that encounter and a review of Union attempts at other Louisiana ports, for the duration of the war, to enforce Lincoln’s blockade strategy (available on Amazon, $9.95). Knowing Your Place: It’s a fact that Louisiana travelers like to read Louisiana books, even fiction set in special places, but with so many old and new titles out there, it’s hard to stay abreast. I recommend LouisianaBookNews.com, a personal project of author and Lafayette journalist Cheré Dastugue Coen, whose site includes book and travel blogs, reviews and book-related events, plus lists of bookstores and Louisiana authors (with links to many). It’s also a quite convenient place to acquire her own travel guide, called Exploring Cajun Country (also available on Amazon), which divides the New Acadie triangle into nine regions and explores the history and je ne sais quoi of each one’s landmarks, towns, foods, festivals and folks. You’ll use it; you’ll keep it.

www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 37

g n i p p o Dr a Line

off a redeared Rachel Delinski shows she caught. pin, qua chin or sunfish,

ing ater fish w h s e r f A guide to raphed

s off Mike Baker show pie he caught. ap cr of e upl co a

otog en & ph her ritt w N. Fels n h o J by

Steven Felsher sho ws off a large crappie he caught. s off a crappie Toni Collins show ad Runner. she caught on a Ro

Tony Gallop shows off a large blue catfish he caught.

antino shows Russell Berg tfish he caught. ca l ne an off a ch

Louisiana, nobody

several sunfish species,

through the state. Rivers quite

wetlands in the United States.

needs to travel very

three types of catfish and

literally built Louisiana. For

These wetlands create some

far in any direction to

many other critters. Some

eons, the Mississippi River

of the richest, most diverse

hit water loaded with fish. In

species, such as blue catfish

and its tributaries drained the

habitat in the world.

fact, water occasionally comes

and alligator garfish, reach

best topsoil from 31 states

to the people – whether they

enormous size. People don’t

and two Canadian provinces

want it to or not!

call Louisiana the Sportsman’s

and deposited that fertile

Paradise for nothing!

cargo into the vast wetlands

of the Red River, a major

of South Louisiana. Today,

tributary of the Mississippi,

In just about any fresh system in the state, anglers

Sportsmen of Louisiana

The Red

The crimson-stained waters

might catch largemouth

owe this diverse bounty to

Louisiana contains about

flow down out of the Great

bass, two species of crappie,

the mighty rivers that flow

41 percent of the coastal

Plains and cut a 250-mile-wide

more than 300 bird species, numerous animals and countless fish call home.

deep in places. Ranked 15th on the national list of top bass waters, Toledo Bend probably holds more

The Mississippi

double-digit largemouths

The Mississippi River and

than any other Louisiana lake.

its tributaries harbor some

Eric Weems set the lake bass

of the biggest catfish in

record with a 15.32-pounder

North America. On Sept.

he caught in July 2000. More

27, 2012, Mike Richardson

recently, Donnie Gill caught a

set a pending state record

15.03-pounder in 2009.

with a 31-pound, 2-ounce

s Daniel Felsher caught a bas er. while fishing a river backwat

channel cat he pulled from

good for big bass,” says

the Mississippi River while

Ricky Yeldell, a Louisiana

fishing beneath the Crescent

Department of Wildlife

City Connection in New

and Fisheries biologist. “It

Orleans. In April 2005,

produces a lot of 10-pounders

Keith Day hauled in a state-

each year and some up to 13

record blue cat weighing

pounds. Any part of the lake

more than 110 pounds from

can produce a big bass.”

the Mississippi near St.

Taylor Whitted shows off a channel catfish she caught.

Savannah McKinney shows off a panfish she caught while fishing off a park dock.

“Toledo Bend is always

While largemouth bass

Francisville. The Mississippi,

generally make the most

Red and Atchafalaya rivers

news, Toledo Bend also

contributed seven of the

holds striped bass exceeding

top 10 blue cats caught in

40 pounds, massive blue and

Louisiana. Wax Lake Outlet,

flathead catfish and huge

part of the Atchafalaya

numbers of crappie with

River delta, produced

some exceeding 3.5 pounds.

the state- record flathead

The reservoir also holds

catfish, a 95-pounder. The

some of the largest bluegills,

Red River contributed four

white bass and yellow bass

of the top flatheads.

in the state.

The Pearl and the Sabine

a tremendous catfish

Besides the Mighty

utilized,” Yeldell says. “It’s

Mississippi, two other rivers

possible to catch a catfish

help define state borders.

over 100 pounds in Toledo

Pearl River creates 119 miles

Bend. The bigger catfish are

of the border with the state

usually flatheads, but we

of Mississippi before flowing

have some pretty impressive

into the marshes near Lake

blue cats. It’s not uncommon

Borgne by Slidell. The Sabine

to catch 40- to 50-pound

River separates Louisiana

blue cats.”

“Toledo Bend has

ht on Jim Nolan’s bass he caug Monroe the Ouachita River near

population, but it’s under-

swath across Northwest and

Atchafalaya River breaks

from Texas for about 265

Central Louisiana. Five water

off from the Red and flows

miles, including Toledo Bend

control structures between

about 142 miles to the Gulf

Reservoir, before emptying

Shreveport and Simmesport

of Mexico near Morgan City.

into Sabine Lake. The 186,000-

tamed the once-raging river,

The Atchafalaya siphons off

acre Toledo Bend probably

and the Pearl, Louisiana

creating five fish-rich pools

30 percent of the Mississippi

offers the best freshwater

sportsmen might also fish

that now produce lunker

River flow, creating the

fishing in Louisiana and

the Ouachita; Tensas; Black;

bass exceeding 10 pounds.

million-acre Atchafalaya

some of the best in the entire

Boeuf; Calcasieu; Amite;

Bassmaster magazine ranks

Basin. The river feeds

country. This 65-mile-long

Blind; Tickfaw; Tangipahoa;

the Red River as No. 47 of the

the largest river overflow

impoundment near Many

Tchefuncte; Bogue Chitto;

top 100 bass destinations in

swamp in the United States

offers anglers more than

Whisky Chitto; and numerous

the nation.

and creates a vibrant,

1,260 shoreline miles and

other rivers, creeks and

growing natural delta that

drops to more than 110 feet

bayous that feed an abundant

Near Simmesport, the

Rivers, Creeks and Bayous Between the Sabine

Jay Denton shows off a cr caught on T oledo Bend Re appie he servoir. ss f a ba ws of hl sho l River. u r B f Jef Pear ght in he cau

bass es a ht by r a p g m u s co nder ca River. u l anes a M to a flo ing Pear r d n h t Ke augh while fis c e sh Bruhl Jeff

tapestry of life. Most fresh water in the state comes from these rivers and associated waters. In just about every

Jay Gallop shows off a flathead catfish he cau ght.

Daryl Masingale shows off a blue catfish he caught.

a s off show quapin. r e ll in e h iemo h, or c ve N is Ste red sunf a e d re

Pontchartrain Basin

300-mile swath of wetlands

Roughly 41 miles long

collectively known as the

the 9,280-acre Lake

by 24 miles wide, Lake

Louisiana Delta ranks 27th on

Cataouatche averages 6 feet

Pontchartrain covers about

the Bassmaster magazine list

deep and connects to the 44,800-acre Lake Salvador.

Just south of Westwego,

630 square miles on the

of hot fisheries. The Louisiana

find that a lake, river, creek or

edge of New Orleans. Lake

Delta hosted four Bassmaster

The Davis Pond freshwater

bayou runs through it.

Pontchartrain connects to

Classics. In February 2011,

diversion project pumps

With so much fresh

Lake Borgne through two

Kevin VanDam set a record

Mississippi River water into

water flowing through the

deep, natural passes – the

for the largest weight ever

these brackish wetlands. With

Sportsman’s Paradise, anglers

Rigolets and the Chef

seen during a Bassmaster

that sweet flow freshening

can find fishing action just

Menteur. Much of the Lake

Classic. Fishing in Lake

the system, Lake Cataouatche

Pontchartrain Basin remains

Cataouatche at the upper

now produces huge numbers of 3- to 7-pound largemouths,

Louisiana parish, sportsmen

about anywhere in the state.

brackish to salty, but several

end of the Barataria Estuary,

spots don’t even have names.

freshwater streams flow

VanDam landed a three-day

a few topping 8 pounds

Children on bicycles fish small

into the system. Marshes

tournament limit of 15

and an occasional 9- or

ponds for bass and bluegills

along the northern and

bass weighing 69 pounds,

10-pounder.

or tiny roadside ditches for

western shoreline hold good

11 ounces, for about a

bullheads, while multimillion-

largemouth bass, catfish and

4.65-pound average. He beat

like Lake Cataouatche,”

dollar yachts cruise the Lake

sunfish populations.

the old record by more than

VanDam said after winning

13 pounds.

his fourth Classic title in 2011.

In fact, some of the best

Pontchartrain Basin.

South of New Orleans, the

“I have never seen anything

Lakes and Reservoirs

book largemouth when Ed

Ricky Moses, an LDWF

Stellner landed a 15.31-

biologist in Pineville. “It

Across North and Central

pounder in February 2000.

has a big watershed that

Intracoastal Waterway and

Louisiana, many impound-

The 15,000-acre lake drains

fluctuates, but when the

a labyrinth of canals and

ments offer excellent fishing

a huge portion of northern

water is stable, it’s hard to

bayous, the Cataouatche-

for bass, catfish, bluegill

Louisiana. About 13.5

beat for size and numbers

Salvador system also

and crappie. Called by some

miles long with numerous

of crappie.”

connects to the 14,720-acre

“the most beautiful lake in

channels loaded with grass,

Lac des Allemands in St.

America,” the 26,810-acre

lily pads, stump fields and

water bodies in Louisiana,

John the Baptist Parish near

Caddo Lake straddles the

flooded timber, the lake also

Cane River Lake began as part of the Red River. In the 19th century, the Red

“It’s a phenomenal habitat. This is a special place.” Through the Gulf

One of the most pleasant

Louisiana-Texas line about

produces good catches of

the Intracoastal Waterway

17 miles northwest of

bream, crappie and catfish.

connects to marshes near

Shreveport. About 12 miles

Morgan City at the southern

wide and 16 miles long,

in Louisiana, the 2,700-acre

Natchitoches, leaving a long

end of the Atchafalaya Basin.

the lake looks more like a

Poverty Point Reservoir near

narrow lake that runs for

Hurricane Isaac hit the area

flooded cypress swamp than

Delhi, began filling with

35 miles and covers 1,275

a natural lake. Both states

water in 1998 and opened

acres. The old oxbow offers

stock millions of Florida-

to fishing in 2003. The state

good bass, catfish and bluegill action.

Thibodaux. Farther west,

hard in August 2012, causing some localized fish kills.

One of the newest lakes

River changed course near

strain largemouth bass into

stocked it with Florida bass,

after Hurricane Isaac, but

the system. In fact, the lake’s

so it now produces many

Lake Cataouatche still has a

record bass exceeds the

fish in the 5- to 9-pound

State Park, Chicot Lake

lot of fish,” says Tim Ruth, an

Louisiana state record. Keith

range with some exceeding

covers 1,700 acres and looks

LDWF biologist in Lacombe.

Burns landed a 16.17-pound

13 pounds. The lake also

more like a picturesque

“I don’t think it was hit as

behemoth on March 20, 2010,

produces huge crappie and

swamp. About 7 miles from

but weighed the fish in Texas.

channel catfish. In April

Ville Platte, the scenic lake

Another Texan, Sean Swank,

2010, Randy K. Causey set

can produce bass weighing

caught a 16.07-pounder on

the Louisiana black crappie

more than 13 pounds and

March 18, 2011.

record with a 3.84-pounder.

good catches of bluegills.

“Some fish kills did occur

hard as some adjacent lakes. Lake Salvador now has more vegetation because it’s more influenced by the freshwater diversion and should be a

Not far away, Lake

The lake also delivered a

Wholly within Chicot

Cotile Lake, a 1,775-acre

good place to fish in coming

Bistineau covers 17,200 acres

white crappie weighing 3.25

impoundment near

years.”

near Minden. The swampy

pounds in March 2011.

Colfax, and Kincaid Lake,

The delta wetlands also create some of the best catfish habitat in the nation. Besides Lac Des Allemands, other great catfish lakes

cypress-studded lake has

“Poverty Point Reservoir

a 2,000-acre lake west

produced bass exceeding 11

has a tremendous number

of Alexandria, can both

pounds in the past. It also

of channel cats,” says Ryan

produce double-digit

holds good populations of

Daniel, an LDWF biologist in

bass plus good catches of

catfish, crappie and bluegill.

Monroe. “We’ve seen some

bluegill and big crappie.

as big as 15 pounds. Poverty

Lake Vernon, a 4,200-acre

Palourde, the 1,024-acre

in Jackson Parish produced

Point has also become

impoundment near Leesville,

Grassy Lake and the

six of the top 10 largest bass

known as a big crappie lake.

produced bass topping

14,000-acre Lake Verret near

ever caught in Louisiana,

Anglers commonly catch

13 pounds, plus some big

Morgan City. Each of these

including the state record.

crappie up to 2 pounds.

crappie and bluegill.

include the 11,500-acre Lake

Caney Lake near Chatham

From massive lakes

Greg Wiggins set the

Several 3-pounders came out

flathead and blue cats in

Louisiana bass standard with

of the lake.”

the 40- to 60-pound range

a 15.97-pounder he pulled

One of the better fishing

and incredible numbers of

from the lake in February

lakes in Central Louisiana,

ponds, Louisiana offers

channel cats.

1994. The 5,000-acre lake also

Black Lake covers 13,000

endless opportunities for

produced the state record

acres near Campti. Fed by

anglers to catch big line-

some of the best catfishing

redear sunfish, or chinquapin,

the Red River, it harbors

pullers. Of course, no

in the world,” says Mike

a 2.87-pounder landed by

bass occasionally topping

compendium of hot honey

Jerry Smelley in August

12 pounds. The lake can

holes could possibly cover all the great places to catch

lakes can produce numerous

“South Louisiana has

Walker, an LDWF biologist.

and mighty rivers to tiny bayous, potholes and

1998. The lake also produced

also produce crappie in the

system down to Atchafalaya

record-book crappie, yellow

2- to 3-pound range and

fish in Louisiana, but part of

Bay is phenomenal for

bass and bluegill.

good catches of flathead

the fun of fishing includes

and channel catfish.

exploring new hot spots

“The entire Atchafalaya

catfish.”

Lake D’Arbonne southwest of Farmerville also contributed a record-

“Black Lake is very productive for catfish,” says

in the rightfully named Sportsman’s Paradise.

42 | Louisiana Life May/June 2013

LOUISIANA'S 4 HALL OF FAMERS by Ryan Whirty

n January, the committee that elects legendary hardball players to the Baseball Hall of Fame in Cooperstown, N.Y., pitched a shutout – no players received enough votes to earn a spot in the baseball shrine’s hallowed halls. Thanks to the specter of steroids and other performance-enhancing drugs, a gloomy pall has settled over the national pastime’s recent past, with superstars such as Barry Bonds, Mark McGwire, Sammy Sosa and Roger Clemens cast in hardball purgatory because of suspicions of PED use. But decades before all that mess, when baseball wasn’t dogged by such depressing road bumps as steroids and labor strife and player

contracts reaching into eight figures and beyond, there were athletes who competed for love of the game and loyalty to their teams, players whose on-field accomplishments weren’t clouded by controversy, whose exploits did earn them well-deserved spots in the Hall of Fame. Of course, the existence of rigid segregation practices did, however, mar the first half of baseball history, but even then, the black players who were shut out from the Major Leagues still managed to thrive in the Negro Leagues and were legends made in their own right, legends who, beginning in the early 1970s, received the hard-earned recognition they deserved by finally entering the Baseball Hall. Now, as it stands today, there are four Louisiana-born players whose plaques hang in the Cooperstown memorial’s hall of legends – Shreveport’s Willard Brown, Bastrop’s Bill Dickey, Vinton’s Ted Lyons and Gretna’s Mel Ott. Although the Pelican State has produced a relatively small amount of hardball Hallers, the ones from Louisiana who have been inducted into the legendary facility certainly earned those accolades. Coming from all four corners of the state, each member of this superb quartet – all now deceased – has made his own unique mark on baseball history. Here is an alphabetical rundown of these four stellar stars.

www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 43

willard brown

t took a half-century for this talented Negro League slugger to be recognized by the Hall of Fame – but not because his accomplishments made him a questionable candidate. Brown’s long-ball power was legendary among his colleagues in black baseball, with the legendary Josh Gibson giving Willard his apt nickname – “Home Run” Brown. But like many of his Negro League counterparts, Brown’s induction into the Hall of Fame was posthumous – it took a special Negro Leagues Committee to finally select him in 2006, a decade after his death at the age of 81. And like so many of his fellow Negro Leagues legends, Brown spent his latter years balancing bitterness at being excluded for years from the Major Leagues – and the popular recognition that would have come with integration – with pride in what he and his black peers accomplished in the hardball shadows. “I tell you one thing,” Brown told Shreveport Times reporter Bill McIntyre in 1976. “I was born 20 years too early. I know so. If I could live it all over again, like quite a few of those ball players, I wish I had an opportunity now.” Brown’s career on the diamond was perhaps marked by three distinctions – his status as the fourth black to cross the Major League color line, his phenomenal performances in Latin American leagues and his (possibly undeserved) reputation for giving 100 percent on the field only when the mood struck him. After Jackie Robinson debuted for the Brooklyn Dodgers in 1947, to be shortly followed by Larry Doby for the Cleveland Indians, Brown and Hank Thompson, his teammate on the Negro League Kansas City Monarchs, were signed by the eternally hapless St. Louis Browns, who wanted a gate attraction just as much as a boost to their lineup. In July, Thompson and Brown became the third and fourth black Major Leaguers.

44 | Louisiana Life May/June 2013

Their arrival was trumpeted in the black press. In a July 1947 article in the esteemed Pittsburgh Courier, writer Kermitt K. Wheeler pronounced that Brown and Thompson would certainly boost the struggling Browns, while in accompanying commentary, none other than Jackie Robinson stated that although the newly minted Browns would see some stiff competition in the Majors, he was confident they could succeed. He also praised Brown. “Willard Brown was one of the best hitters in Negro baseball,” Robinson wrote. “He hits a long ball and is hard to fool. He is a smooth type of player and a real student of the game.” Unfortunately, perhaps largely due to animosity from his white teammates and his own frustration with what he perceived was a lack of quality on the squad, Brown foundered in his brief tenure in the Majors and was released by the Browns in mid-August. He then returned to the Monarchs the next year. There could, however, be an alternate explanation for Brown’s lack of success in the Bigs – according to some of his contemporaries, he often let his prodigious talent go to waste during weekday games, dogging it when the crowds in the stands were small. It was only on the weekend, when Negro League games attracted throngs of spectators, that Brown turned it on in full. But other observers believed that Brown was so good that he made the game look easy, thereby giving the impression that he wasn’t going all out. “Brown’s legacy is reflected in his nickname, ‘Sunny,’” says Negro League historian Larry Lester. “Brown was known to play his best on Sunday, when the biggest crowds were present. His effortless talents in the field and at bat caused many to believe perhaps he could be even better than shown. He was a Hall of Famer with a laid-back attitude.” The final distinction about Brown’s career was his performance in Latin America, especially in the Puerto Rican Winter League, where he set batting records that still stand to this day, a fact that earned him yet another nickname, this one from the Puerto Rican locals – “Ese Hombre,” or “That Man.” “The outfielder was one of the most feared hitters in the Negro Leagues,” wrote Society for Baseball Research writer Rory Costello, “but he was an absolute wrecking ball in the Puerto Rican Winter League.”

Bill Dickey

f the four Louisiana Hall of Famers, New York Yankee great Bill Dickey’s connection to the state is considered somewhat tenuous. Although he was born in Bastrop, Dickey and his family moved to Arkansas when he was a youth because his father earned a job as a brakeman for Missouri Pacific Railroad. For the rest of his life, Dickey called Arkansas home in general and Little Rock in particular. Because of that, many Bastrop residents aren’t even aware that a Hall of Famer sprang from their midst, says Bastrop Enterprise editor Marq Mitcham. The one person from Bastrop who did know a good deal about Dickey was former Enterprise writer Wes Helbling, who wrote a pair of articles about the great catcher in 2008. “Dickey is considered by many historians to be the greatest catcher the game has ever seen,” Helbling wrote in one of those articles. However, Helbling added, “Little is known of his early years here.” Dickey’s Major League career ran from 1928 through 1946, during which time the catching great earned 11 All-Star nods and helped the Yankees win seven World Series. Dickey was a key player in the history of baseball’s most storied franchise – his career bridged the gap between the famed “Murderers’ Row” years of Babe Ruth and Lou Gehrig in the 1920s and the squad’s subsequent title winners in the 1940s with Joe DiMaggio. In fact, Dickey emerged as the team’s leader after Gehrig died in 1941, and he briefly managed the squad in 1946 after his military service and before his retirement from baseball. Yankee management invited Dickey back into the fold a few years later when he was tapped to mold the latent but extremely promising talents of an awkward young catcher named Lawrence “Yogi” Berra. Under Dickey’s tutelage, Berra quickly emerged as the best backstop in the contemporary game and a Hall of Famer in his own right. In addition, Dickey tutored the Yankees’ first black player, catcher Elston Howard, who once said: “Without Bill, I’m nobody. Nobody at all. He made me a catcher.”

Dickey also garnered accolades from opponents, including Hall of Fame speedball pitcher Bob Feller, who called the Yankee great the best catcher he ever witnessed. Hall of Fame voters agreed, electing him to the shrine in 1954. Dickey died in Little Rock in 1993, after which the New York Times lavished praise on a key figure in Yankee heritage. “Rated by many as the finest all-round catcher in the history of the sport, Dickey was one of the brightest stars of Yankee teams that held sway over the American League between World War I and World War II,” wrote Times reporter Thomas Rogers. “He was one of the most feared clutch hitters in lineups that included Babe Ruth, Bob Meusel and Joe DiMaggio. ... Behind the plate, he displayed all the qualities needed by a top-notch defensive catcher.”

www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 45

ted lyons

ake Charles native, Vinton resident and famed pitcher Ted Lyons presented a curious case for Hall of Fame voters. On paper, Lyons’ stats would seem to make him a marginal Hall candidate; after 21 years in the Majors, all with the Chicago White Sox, Lyons’ win-loss record was only 260-230, and his 3.67 career earned run average is the second-highest of any Hall of Fame pitcher. Those numbers undoubtedly contributed to the hesitancy the Hall selectors showed when considering him for induction. Lyons retired in 1946, but he wasn’t chosen for the shrine until 1955, on his eighth ballot. But if you look past the black and white, you perhaps see why Lyons’ statistics were so modest. During his two-decade-plus Major League career –

Lyons didn’t spend a day in the minors – the White Sox were perennial losers who never provided the support Lyons needed to post better numbers. In fact, Joe McCarthy, who managed many of the Yankee championship teams during Lyons’ career, once said, “If he’d pitched for the Yankees, he would have won over 400 games.” In addition, Lyons’ loyalty and dedication to the White Sox, despite the franchise’s lousiness, endeared him to Chicago fans and made him the team’s career leader in pitching wins to this day. One of those victories was a no-hitter tossed in 1926 against the Boston Red Sox. But Chicagoans aren’t the only ones who remember Lyons fondly – in Southwest Louisiana, the boy from Cajun Country is regarded as a legend and one of the finest products of the region. “We are proud that Ted Lyons called Vinton home,” says Vinton Mayor Kenneth Stinson. “Most people that knew him are gone, but there are a few younger ones that remember him when he lived in town.” Stinson notes that Vinton has a youth ballpark named after the Hall of Famer, and he adds that after retiring from baseball, Lyons returned home and became a fixture in the Vinton community, which embraced him until he died in 1986. Even Stinson himself cherishes the times he spent near Lyons. “My memories include seeing him talking about baseball,” the mayor says. “As a youngster, it was amazing to know someone that had played ball with Babe Ruth. Ted had these little bat-shaped pens with his name on them that he gave people. I still have one that I treasure.” Lyons’ Louisiana fame isn’t limited to Vinton, either. In New Orleans, longtime TimesPicayune columnist Bill Keefe wrote in 1955 about a local event at which Lyons would be the keynote speaker. “Principal speaker will be Ted Lyons, for many years one of the Major Leagues’ most famous pitchers,” Keefe penned. “A Louisianian, Lyons has become as popular a baseball [player] as ever represented the Pelican State.”

mel ott

hey called him “Master Melvin,” the “Little Giant,” a compact, 5-foot-9-inch bundle of brawn from Gretna, whose slight size belied a powerful bat that, upon his retirement, made him the career home run leader in the National League. The fact that New York Giants legend Mel Ott died tragically in a car crash at the age of 49 only burnished his legend, especially in his Westbank hometown, where a park is named after him and a life-size bronze statue dedicated in 2009 welcomes visitors to his hometown. “Based on our dedication of his statue, Mel Ott’s reputation is still very highly regarded not only by Gretna residents but by the New Orleans baseball community,” says Gretna Mayor Ronnie Harris. Born in Gretna in 1909, Ott became a burgeoning hardball prodigy, but he was passed over by the New York Pelicans minor-league team at the age of 16, ostensibly because of his small stature. So he was set up with a lumber company’s semi-pro team in Patterson, where the owner of the firm noticed Ott’s talent and hooked him up with legendary Giants manager John McGraw. “The luckiest thing that ever happened to me was that I was turned down the first time I tried to get a job in baseball,” Ott told New York Times scribe Arthur Daley in July 1958, just four months before Ott’s sudden death. “It changed the course of my life.” Thus, at the tender age of 17, the little teen from Gretna debuted at the Polo Grounds, one of baseball’s biggest stages. Over the next 21 years, all with the Giants, Ott amassed 12 All-Star selections; a World Series title in 1933; a .304 career batting average; and 511 home runs, then the most ever by a National Leaguer. The laid-back, eternally friendly Ott also managed the Giants for several years but couldn’t pilot them to any more titles. In fact, the Giants were occasional residents or close neighbors of the NL cellar, a fact that spurred one of our country’s most famous sayings. Reportedly, before a Giants-Brooklyn Dodgers game, Brooklyn’s irascible manager, Leo Durocher, was chided by a local beat writer to be nicer. Pointing to Ott in the opposing dugout, Leo the Lip then

famously groused: “Who wants to be nice? Nice guys finish last.” Despite the mediocrity of the teams he managed, Ott’s excellence on the field earned him an easy pass into the Hall of Fame, which welcomed him 1951, on his first ballot. But just seven years later, on Nov. 21, 1958, Gretna’s most famous resident succumbed to the massive injuries he suffered in a car crash a few days earlier. His passing sent shock waves across the baseball world, but the New Orleans community and Gretna were especially hard-hit. “Mel Ott, probably the mightiest ‘little man’ baseball ever knew, is lost to the world of sports,” the Times-Picayune’s Keefe opined shortly after the star’s death. “Quite a loss to all who knew him, too, as well as to his family. Having known him since he caught for Gretna High ... I can say without hesitancy that he went through his entire life, on or off the field, not as a ‘nice guy’ but as a prince of young Americans.” The outpouring of honors from Ott’s hometown quickly followed. In April 1959, the Gretna board of aldermen changed the name of Gretna City Park to Mel Ott Park, and two years later Gov. Jimmie Davis declared May 28 “Mel Ott Day.” Since then, the relationship between Ott’s legacy and his hometown has only grown stronger. In 1970, Daley wrote: “If Ottie has faded from memory over the years, a visit to Gretna brings a warm nostalgic glow. It also brings rich recollections of the nice guy whose image could not be dented even when he finished last.” Ott’s descendants and relatives still populate Gretna, including Virgie Ott, whose late husband was Mel’s second cousin and who served as Gretna’s tourism director for several years, partially to promote Mel’s connection to the town. “He never forgot us when he left [Gretna],” Virgie Ott says of Mel. “When he came back for visits, he took some of the local guys out for a beer. Gretna is so proud that he is honored in the Baseball Hall of Fame. We try to keep his memory alive.”

www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 47

The Saga of the

Original Louisiana Tiger Chatham Roberdeau Wheat | By Ron Soodalter

creaming at the

Orleans waterfront, and though their

South Carolina contingent inadvertently

tops of their lungs

official designation was the 1st Louisiana

directed friendly fire at them; the Tigers

as they charged the

Battalion, they were known and feared

deliberately took aim and returned the

hapless Yankees,

by Federals and Rebels alike as the

fire. When there were no enemy troops

they were a vision

Louisiana Tigers.

to engage, the Tigers often fought among

straight out of hell.

It was a name they wore with pride.

themselves. Recalled one South Carolina

Many had chosen to enhance their

soldier: “They were the worst men I ever

outlandish Turkish-style Zouave uniforms

uniforms by painting on their caps

saw. They were always ready to fight,

– bright-red shirts, embroidered jackets,

such individually inspired slogans as

and it made little difference to them who

billowing knee-length blue-and-white-

“Lincoln’s Life or a Tiger’s Death,” “Tiger

they fought.” Wrote one Confederate in

striped pantaloons and white gaiters, all

in Search of a Black Republican” and

his diary, “They neither fear God, man

capped with tasseled red fezs – which

“Tiger Bound for the Happy Land.” One

or the Devil.” And a third called them

made them easy targets, but they seemed

English journalist provided a firsthand

“tigers in human form” and admitted, “I

to care not at all. They descended in a

account of their battle tactics: “They

was actually afraid they would … knock

fury, killing without qualm and – when

would maintain a death-like silence until

me down and stamp me half to death.”

time and safety permitted – slaying the

the foe was not more than 100 paces off,

wounded and looting the dead. Above

then delivering a withering volley, they

and control and direct their mayhem:

them flew their battalion flag, itself a

would dash forward with unearthly yells

their commanding officer, Maj. Chatham

deliberate mockery of the solemnity of

and [as] they unsheathed their knives and

Roberdeau Wheat. Richmond native

war. On it were embroidered the words

rushed to close quarters, the Yankees

Sallie Putnam was familiar with the

“Gentle as a …” and the image of a lamb.

screamed with horror.”

unusual relationship between Wheat

Some of them wore

They had been largely recruited from the wharves, gutters and dives of the New 48 | Louisiana Life May/June 2013

Not all their targets were Yankees. During the First Battle of Manassas, a

Only one man could hold their loyalty

and his troops: “The battalion of ‘Tigers’ … were, as their name denotes, men

of desperate courage but questionable morals. … Among them were

through his various adventures. After graduating with a bachelor

swept to the edges of the sea and beyond. One target that had been in America’s

many a lawless character, whose fierce

of arts degree from the University of

sights since the days of Thomas Jefferson

passions were kept in abeyance by the

Nashville in 1845, Wheat studied law and

was the island of Cuba. For both tactical

superior discipline of their commander.

briefly worked for a law firm. By this

and economic reasons, the “Pearl of the

… [H]e was gentle, easy, graceful and

time, however, hostilities had erupted

Antilles” seemed to represent a necessary

dignified in society; toward the men

between Mexico and the United States,

adjunct to the fledgling United States.

under his command he was kind, but

and with a Congressional declaration

grave and reserved, and exacting in the

of war came a nationwide call for

Cuban official named Narciso Lopez was

performance of duty; in battle he was

volunteers. Abandoning both his studies

putting together an invading force for the

fiery, impetuous and resolute.”

and his job, Wheat immediately enlisted

purpose of liberating Cuba from Spain.

As it happened, in 1849, a former

A combination of “the iron hand of

in the Tennessee state militia. He was

He had tried unsuccessfully to take the

discipline” and “fatherly kindness” was

the first to join and was soon elected

island the previous year, and now he was

noted by a fellow officer, who added,

second lieutenant of the First Tennessee

in the United States soliciting support

“Wheat had these two qualities … in a

Mounted Regiment. It was a fortuitous

for a second attempt. Many Americans,

remarkable degree. His men loved him

choice; with his affable nature, impressive

sensing an opportunity to seize the island,

– and feared him. The power or spell he

size and strength and natural gift of

supported Lopez’ campaign. Several

had over his men was truly remarkable.”

leadership, the 20-year-old Wheat –

young filibusters, or soldiers of fortune,

mounted on his blooded warhorse, Jim

signed on, inspired by the promise of

– made the perfect officer.

glory, land and wealth in a newly liberated

Chatham Roberdeau Wheat – or Bob, as he was known among his friends and fellow officers – was a walking contra-

For his part, Wheat was more than

Cuba. Among them was Roberdeau

diction. A handsome, dark-haired giant

ready for combat. “Grandpa and Pa have

at 6-foot-4-inches and 250 pounds, the

been in the wars,” he wrote his mother,

dashing, highly cultured and well-educated

“and I must, too.” Over the next year,

acquitted himself well, constantly

Wheat embodied the image of a man

Wheat led his men in several skirmishes,

rallying his dispirited troops and placing

of breeding. Yet student of poetry and

and when their one-year enlistments

himself in the thick of battle, in one

literature though he was and a Southern

ended, Wheat, now a captain, re-enlisted,

instance suffering a shoulder wound.

gentleman in the truest sense of the term,

convincing several of his men to remain

Outnumbered and outgunned, however,

Wheat was a war-lover. He thrived on the

with him. Despite bouts with debili-

Lopez’ forces were badly defeated. Wheat

danger, chaos and carnage, as well as the

tating, near-fatal illness; horrific living

returned home and again took up his law

pomp, the bombast and the opportunities

conditions; and an Army often devoid of

practice – and again, soon left it to follow

for glory. As one biographer wrote of him,

discipline, Wheat had become addicted to

the sound of the drums.

“Wheat’s story is that of a man who learned

the lure of battle and would so remain for

to play soldier late in youth and thereafter

the rest of his life. In a sense, Wheat was

disastrous as the first, but it didn’t take

was never able to shake off the fascination

a throwback to the knights of Arthurian

Wheat long to find another cause – and

that battle held for him.” And when no

legend. His attention to his appearance (“I

another war. This time, he joined the

wars were available to him at home, he

am splendidly equipped,” he wrote) and

makeshift army of a Mexican “patriot”

traveled to foreign countries to fight in

his adherence to a strict chivalric code

and former freebooter named Carvajal

theirs. By the time his military career came

defined him as a true “beau sabreur” – a

in an attempt to establish the Republic

to an abrupt end, Bob Wheat had earned

gallant warrior. Gen. John A. Quitman,

of Sierra Madre below the border. The

a reputation as a skilled commander and a

under whom Wheat served in Mexico,

insurrection failed, however, and Wheat

fearless soldier. Stonewall Jackson himself

called him “the best natural soldier” he

– now 26 years old – returned to New

described Wheat as “too brave to ever think

ever knew.

Orleans and ran successfully for the

of himself.”

After returning home at war’s end,

Wheat, who joined as a colonel. The invasion was a disaster. Wheat

A second Cuban invasion proved as

Louisiana State House of Representatives.

Wheat finished his law studies in

The restless adventurer quickly grew as

WAYWARD VISION

New Orleans and was admitted to the

bored with politics as he had with the

Wheat was born to a large and venerable

Louisiana Bar in 1848. He found the

practice of law, and he turned once again

Virginia family in April 1826. When

practice of law profoundly unsatisfying,

to his military muse. He attempted to join

he was 12, his father, an Episcopal

however, and soon found a means of

the celebrated filibuster William Walker

minister, moved the family to Nashville,

satisfying his lust for battle.

in his brief conquest of Northern Mexico – an area which the megalomaniacal

Tenn., which became Wheat’s home through early manhood. And although

MANIFEST DESTINY

Walker declared the “Republic of Lower

his father tended to look askance at his

The first half of the 19th century was a

California,” with himself as president –

chosen pursuit and referred to him as

golden time for young men in search of

but arrived in California in time to see the

“wayward,” he shared an unusually close

adventure. The cry of Manifest Destiny

invasion crumble.

relationship with his mother all his life,

was on everyone’s lips, and Americans

remaining in constant contact with her

envisioned a national expansion that

Wheat soon joined yet another Cuban insurrection, which fared no better than www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 49

the first two. He then offered his services

portended civil war, Wheat returned to

his wound and rejoined his regiment in

– and his sword – to a Mexican rebel

New Orleans and set up the recruiting

mid-September. In December, two of

named Juan Álvarez in his attempt to

station at 64 St. Charles St., where he had

his Tigers were found guilty by court

unseat Gen. Santa Anna and establish a

enlisted hundreds of men for his previous

martial of violating an article of war

government more favorably disposed to

adventures. This time, the former general

and – despite Wheat’s entreaties on their

the United States. Álvarez made Wheat a

in a number of foreign causes would

behalf – sentenced to be shot. As the

general the day after the American’s 29th

be fighting on and for his native soil.

firing squad, selected from among the

birthday. Álvarez was successful and led

He raised some 500 men, who became

Louisianians, fired on command, Wheat

his 30,000 men triumphantly into Mexico

known as Wheat’s Special Battalion.

sat sobbing in his tent.

City. Wheat was rewarded with land,

Although many were Irish and German

money and a pearl fishery in Acapulco.

immigrants, the bulk consisted of street

Stonewall Jackson’s campaign in the

After months of inactivity, however,

thugs and wharf rats whose first – and,

Shenandoah Valley during May and

Wheat resigned from the Mexican army

in some cases, only – allegiance was to

June 1862, earning the praise of Jackson

for a more challenging adventure.

Wheat. One company, designated the

himself, as well as that of a number

Tiger Rifles and officered by Capt. Alex

of other general officers. At the Battle

White, was described by one contempo-

of Gaines’ Mill, however, the law of

Once again, William Walker – the “Grey-eyed Man of Destiny,” as the

averages finally caught up with

press liked to call the tiny man

Roberdeau Wheat. The day

with huge ambition – staged an invasion, this time of Nicaragua.

Wheat gallantly led his men throughout

Chatham Roberdeau Wheat

before the battle, he had a strong

And again, he perempto-

presentiment of his death, and he

rily named himself president.

beseeched his comrades to bury

Wheat, on hearing of the forces

him where he fell. Throughout the

being mustered against Walker,

day, he spoke of his mother and

immediately boarded a ship

wept and recited lines from his

bound for South America, at

prayer book. The next day, during

the head of a relief expedition

a particularly vicious exchange of

of 40 volunteers. After several

fire, Wheat rode to within 40 yards

skirmishes, interdiction by the

of the enemy lines and a Yankee

British navy and a disastrous

volley felled both man and horse.

shipboard explosion that killed

As he lay dying, he murmured,

some 20 men, Wheat gave up all

“Bury me on the field, boys.” The

hope of reaching Walker and in

morning following the battle, two

April 1857 returned to the U.S.

fellow officers and four Tigers dug his grave and solemnly spoke a

The next two years found him

prayer over him.

working with an inventor in the

By the time Wheat died, his

creation of a cannon that would fire farther and with greater

Tigers had been drastically

penetrating power than any gun

reduced in number, from an initial

of the period. Typically, he grew

enrollment of 500 to fewer than

bored, and in 1859 the 33-year-old

100 men. On Aug. 9, 1862, the

warrior returned to Mexico and

battalion was disbanded by special order and its remaining troops

the forces of Juan Álvarez. Within a year, he read of Garibaldi’s rebellion in

rary as having been “recruited from the

reassigned to other Louisiana regiments.

Sicily, and he was soon steaming to Italy,

very dregs of the city and commanded by

They had always fought with distinction

ready to lend the Red Shirts his skill and

a man who had served a term in the peni-

and often just for the love of fighting.

experience. According to one newspaper

tentiary” – which was true.

Perhaps the most accurate memorial

account, Wheat “went through battle

By late May 1861, Wheat commanded

to the Louisiana Tigers, and to Wheat

and skirmish, displaying the magnificent

five companies as their major, and on

himself, was written by Confederate Maj.

courage, the rare horsemanship and the

June 5, they were inducted into the

David Boyd: “Wheat’s Battalion was a

personal chivalry of the cavalier.”

Confederate service as the First Special

unique body, representing every grade

Battalion. They marched to Virginia,

of society and every kind of man, from

CIVIL WAR

where Wheat and his Louisiana Tigers

the princely gentleman who commanded

Meanwhile, the United States presiden-

fought in the first battle of the war – First

them down to the thief and cutthroat

tial election raised to world prominence

Manassas, or Bull Run. They fought well,

released from parish prison. … Such a

the successful campaign of the fledgling

although Wheat himself was shot through

motley herd of humanity was probably

Republican Party candidate, Abraham

the lung. Despite the dour predictions of

never got together before, and may

Lincoln. Aware that the election

the field surgeons, Wheat recovered from

never be again.”

50 | Louisiana Life May/June 2013

www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 51

Discovering Our State A Staycation guide for Louisianians |

By Judi Russell

Louisiana residents just happen to live in a state targeted by

your batteries right in your own backyard. Because you

folks in the other 49 as a top vacation destination. A desire

won’t spend a lot of time flying or driving to some distant

to experience the great food, culture and outdoor activities

destination, you’ll use less of your precious time off sitting

Louisiana offers leads people from Maine to Minnesota to

around airports or behind the wheel of a car. That leaves

pack their bags and head for the Bayou State.

more days for having a good time, and isn’t that what

If your vacation budget this year doesn’t stretch to a crosscountry trip – or if you just want to see what all the others

vacations are all about? Whether your hometown is one of Louisiana’s exciting big

are excited about – plan a “staycation” in Louisiana instead.

cities or its many charming smaller towns, you’ll run out of

Check out the ways you can relax, have fun and recharge

vacation days long before you run out of things to do.

Northern Delights Sci-Port

Festival, the 18-block Historic District lets visitors admire period architecture while they shop and dine. If you crave outdoor relaxation, head for the region’s many golf courses and state parks. You can glimpse a variety of native wildlife at Olde Oaks, an Audubon Golf Trail course near Shreveport, while creeks add interest to the 300-acre Black Bear Golf Course in Delhi. Spend your

vacation days in a cabin or

hose who hail from

bottler of Coca-Cola, built

S. Ford Memorial Museum

camp site at Lake D’Arbonne

North Louisiana can

the magnificent mansion in

in Homer. The former is the

State Park, where you can

choose from myriad

1914. Today, guests can tour

site of a utopian community

fish, swim, bike or go bird-

ways to vacation close to home.

the historic home, furnished

founded by a group of

watching. The fishing is

This part of the state bears

with antiques, as well as the

Germans in the 1830s; the

also great at Poverty Point

the nickname Sportsman’s

beautiful gardens, a Bible

community lasted 40 years,

Reservoir State Park, near

Paradise, a tribute to its

museum and displays of

and several of their buildings

Delhi. If you like canoeing,

rolling hills and many lakes,

Coke memorabilia.

and a cemetery remain. The

try the 6,400-acre lake at Lake

Ford Museum is a detailed

Claiborne State Park.

rivers and state parks. But

Those interested in

Another outdoor treat is

you needn’t go far to enjoy

military history can take in

look at North Louisiana history

more urban entertainment,

the Chennault Aviation and

from pre-Columbian times to

the Gardens of the American

including casinos, restaurants,

Military Museum of Louisiana

the present day and contains

Rose Center in Shreveport,

theaters and shops.

in Monroe or the Louisiana

period rooms such as a

where more than 20,000

Military Museum in Ruston.

general store, a medical office

roses perfume the air.

and a hotel room. The exhibits

The gardens are lovely in

If museum-hopping is your thing, opportunities

Smaller specialty museums

abound. One standout is

are often fascinating. Two

give visitors a real feel for life

spring, summer and into fall;

the Biedenharn Museum

in North Louisiana are the

in days gone by.

during the winter holidays,

& Gardens in Monroe.

Germantown Colony Museum

Joseph Biedenharn, the first

near Minden and the Herbert

In Ruston, home to the popular Louisiana Peach

thousands of twinkling lights turn it into a wonderland,

Black Bear Golf Course

complete with train rides. Vacationing with the kids?

Casino Resort. Bossier City is noted for its

Don’t miss Shreveport’s

giant riverfront mall, Louisiana

Sci-Port – Louisiana’s Science

Boardwalk, with more

Center, more than 90,000

than 70 outlet stores along

square feet of interactive,

with an IMAX theater and

educational fun for families.

restaurants. Or try Monroe’s

Kids can learn about science,

Antique Alley, blocks and

math and outer space in

blocks of antiques shops.

hundreds of exhibits and

Other fun side trips include

catch a flick at the IMAX

visits to the tasting room at

Dome Theatre. Chimp Haven,

Landry Vineyards in the hills of

a national chimpanzee

West Monroe and Vieux Carré

sanctuary, is located just

Gourmet, also in Monroe,

22 miles from Shreveport;

which specializes in food with a

on Chimp Discovery Days,

New Orleans flavor.

visitors are admitted to see the chimps and their habitat.

Speaking of flavor, the cuisine in northern Louisiana

Kids and water go together

has something for everyone.

like peanut butter and jelly, and

“Barbecue is big, and catfish

in addition to swimming in the

is king,” says Louisiana food

region’s state parks, try Splash

commentator Ian McNulty

Kingdom Family Waterpark in

(see his column, p. 20).

Shreveport, featuring slides, a

Restaurants run from white-

lazy river and a special area for

tablecloth to neighborhood

the small fry.

cafés, and you can also take

Shopping, placing a wager

advantage of summer’s sunny

or two and taking in a show

weather and pick up some

are other popular vacation

regional favorites, including

pastimes. Don’t miss the

pecans, blueberries and those

breathtaking Strand Theatre in

juicy Ruston peaches for a

Shreveport, built in 1925 and

picnic in the park.

lovingly restored. It reopened

With a little advance

in 1984 and provides an

planning, you can schedule

opulent backdrop for concerts,

your staycation to coincide

plays and touring Broadway

with one or two of North

shows. In the Shreveport-

Louisiana’s festivals. Popular

Bossier City entertainment

gatherings include the

districts, you can try your luck

Franklin Parish Catfish fest in

at several casinos and Harrah’s

Winnsboro, the Teddy Bear

Louisiana Downs, a casino and

Festival in Tallulah, Ruston’s

race track. This summer will

Louisiana Peach Festival and

bring the grand opening of

the Germantown Bluegrass

Jimmy Buffet’s Margaritaville

Festival in Minden. www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 55

Capital THRILLS, plantation adventures Francisco, Oak Alley and

contemporary art museum,

The Myrtles (which calls

restaurants and gallery

itself Louisiana’s most

spaces.

haunted home). At Laura

have fun, spend an afternoon

show the reverse side of

or two at Blue Bayou Water

the coin; enslaved African

Park and its neighbor, Dixie

Americans provided the

Landin’, filled with thrilling

labor to keep the plantations

rides for children of all ages.

going, and the slave quarters

They might also enjoy seeing

show the poverty of their

the U.S.S. Kidd Veterans

lives. Another don’t-miss

Memorial & Museum.

destination is Oakley House

The destroyer, nicknamed

at the Audubon State

“The Pirate of the Pacific,”

Historical Site. Oakley is

was launched in 1943. On

where John James Audubon

Thursdays, Fridays and

painted some of his famous

Saturdays, the Enchanted

bird pictures.

Mansion: A Doll Museum

Today, many plantations

displays dolls of every

have turned into bed-and-

description; money raised by

breakfast inns, and others

the site is donated to benefit

have special holiday activities

the handicapped.

and lovely restaurants. Baton Rouge is rich in

The Baton Rouge area has plenty of places to

interesting sites. Young people

shop and dine, including

would especially like the LSU

the Baton Rouge Mall of

Rural Life Museum, a collection

America, with its carousel;

of 27 buildings filled with

L’Auberge Casino & Hotel,

tools, furniture and other items

with three restaurants and

Afton Villa Gardens

Because kids just want to

Plantation, six slave quarters

from Louisiana’s

plenty of gaming action;

19th-century rural

and the Denham Springs

culture.

Historic and Antique District,

At the Louisiana Art &

where dealers sell toys, art,

ven if you’ve lived in

wealthy planters who called

Science Museum, kids can

Christmas items and silver.

the Baton Rouge area

the area home in antebellum

have fun in the interactive

Stop by Cottonwood Books,

for some time, there

days.

science center or view a

filled with thousands of new, used and rare books,

are bound to be interesting

The area’s nickname is

show at the planetarium.

places you’ve never visited.

“Plantation Country” for a

Parents will like the fine

including those on Louisiana

Maybe you’ve put off

reason: Nowhere else can

art on display. And at the

history, the Civil War and

exploring the parts of the

you tour such a unique

Old Governor’s Mansion,

Southern literature.

region you’re not familiar

collection of mansions

built by Huey P. Long, get

with or you’ve skipped your

that tell the tale of a time

a look at Long’s pajamas,

home to such charming

hometown’s highlights,

when cotton was king and

Gov. Jimmie Davis’ guitar

towns as New Roads and St.

thinking they would always

planters lived like royalty.

and other artifacts. Other

Francisville. In New Roads,

be available. A staycation is

Start with Nottoway,

specialized museums include

enjoy fishing, boating and

the ideal time to see what’s

sometimes called “The

the Old Arsenal Museum,

water-skiing on the False

happening in a section of

White Castle of Louisiana,”

with its exhibits of military

River, an oxbow lake.

Louisiana that combines

with 64 rooms of grandeur.

history, and the Shaw Center

The town is also home to

big-city life with a glimpse

Other notable plantations

for the Arts, a downtown

the Pointe Coupee Parish

into the lifestyles of the

include Destrehan, San

architectural gem with a

Museum and lots of antiques

56 | Louisiana Life May/June 2013

Plantation Country is also

Rural Life Museum

shops. St. Francisville, noted

The Bluffs on Thompson

for its Main Street, is often

Creek, just five minutes from

called one of America’s most

St. Francisville. The course,

beautiful small towns. Don’t

built to an Arnold Palmer

miss Afton Villa Gardens;

design, is noted for its creeks,

although Afton Villa burned

ponds and breathtaking

in 1963, its lovely gardens

rolling bluffs. Or walk the

are filled with sweet olive,

Iberville Parish Birding Trail,

magnolias and camellias, as

where you can spot neo-

well as azaleas of all colors.

tropical songbirds, migratory

In the town of Zachary,

hummingbirds, wading birds

take in the Zachary Historic

and raptors.

Village, with its blacksmith’s

Dining is a big part of

shop, and watch corn

every vacation, and there are

ground into grits.

lots of options in the Baton

If you time your staycation

Rouge area, ranging from

right, you can join the

elegant meals to neighbor-

locals and celebrate at the

hood cafés with Cajun and

Baton Rouge Greek Festival,

Creole specialties. In Baton

the Jambalaya Festival in

Rouge, local favorites include

Gonzales or one of the many

Ruffino’s, with its classic

other area festivals.

Creole Italian dishes, and

Vacation is an ideal time to

Juban’s, with its Creole menu.

head for the great outdoors,

Many plantation homes also

and in Baton Rouge and

have restaurants, such as The

Plantation Country, choices

Carriage House Restaurant at

abound. At the Tunica Hills

The Myrtles, which features

Wildlife Management Area,

“down home Southern

northwest of St. Francisville,

favorites.” It’s also fun to pick

visitors can hunt, hike, bike,

up some fresh produce and

ride horses, bird-watch or

prepared foods at one of the

take a walk on the 3-mile

area’s many farmers markets

nature trail with camera in

and have a picnic.

tow. The Bluebonnet Swamp

Dining, shopping, hiking

Nature Center in Baton

or taking in a bit of history

Rouge is crisscrossed with

– the Baton Rouge area

gravel paths and boardwalks

is a complete vacation

and is noted for its live animal

destination in one easy-to-

encounters. Like golf? Try

navigate package. www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 57

big easy fun city park

good place for children to run around. They can watch the ships on the river and ride the ferry across and back. In the nearby town of Folsom is an unusual spot, the Global Wildlife Center. During a 90-minute safari tour, you can see giraffes, zebras, camels, elands and other animals. You can even feed them. Of course, just wandering through the French Quarter, or Vieux Carré, is an ideal way to spend an afternoon or two. On Royal Street, you can take in the magnificent antiques stores, and later, you should get out and experience the nightlife on Bourbon Street. Another fun staycation activity – one you may have always wanted to do but never had time for – is to board the streetcar at

ew cities have the

buildings in the French

allure of New Orleans.

Quarter; and Mardi Gras

enjoy the Audubon

Its charms are known

World, where you can get a

Aquarium of the Americas

all over the world, and its

behind-the-scenes look at how

and Entergy IMAX Theatre

restaurants, hotels, museums

the parade floats are built.

and Audubon’s spectacular

and cultural activities are a

One of the most moving

Families will especially

zoo. A fairly new venue,

magnet for tourists. Those in

places to visit is the National

the Audubon Insectarium,

the know, however – especially

World War II Museum,

gives an up-close look at

those who live near the city –

which tells the story of the

the smaller critters we

realize that the Greater New

Greatest Generation and the

all live side by side with.

Orleans area holds lots of

battles fought in Europe and

The Louisiana Children’s

lesser-known delights just a

in the Pacific, on land and sea

Museum, just a brief walk

short hop from the city itself.

and in the air. The recorded

from Canal Street, is packed

A staycation is the ideal time

interviews with veterans

with hands-on, educational

to explore one of Louisiana’s

are poignant; other exhibits

activities children of all ages

most exciting regions.

show how life was on the

will enjoy.

New Orleans has museums to suit just about

home front. The Historic New Orleans

Another treat for children is City Park, where kids can

every interest. Don’t-miss

Collection on Royal Street

play in Storyland, feed the

venues include the Ogden

in the Vieux Carré tells

ducks and ride paddle boats.

Museum of Southern Art; the

the story of the city’s

Woldenberg Park, which

Contemporary Arts Center;

past through exhibits and

borders the docks on the

the Cabildo and Presbytère

research materials.

Mississippi River, is another

58 | Louisiana Life May/June 2013

Canal Street and St. Charles Avenue and ride all the way up the Avenue, through the Garden District, known for its beautiful mansions and huge trees, and into the Uptown area. At the end of the line, get off and walk a short way to Camellia Grill, a favorite with college students and locals. After your meal, take the car back to town, enjoying the breeze and the sounds of the city. Just a short trip from downtown is Longue Vue House and Gardens. The classic Revival mansion, built by Edith and Edgar Stern, is filled with original furnishings and surrounded by a wide variety of gardens. Longue Vue provides a look at a way of life few people

PresbytÈre Building

ever experience. New Orleans also has

If vacation means getting outdoors to you, New

a full complement of

Orleans has many fine golf

cultural activities, including

courses, such as the TCP

symphony concerts, ballets,

Louisiana Golf Course,

operas and stage shows.

a member of the state’s

In nearby Jefferson Parish,

Audubon Golf Trail. At Jean

the Jefferson Performing

Lafitte National Historical

Arts Society offers plays in

Park and Preserve’s Barataria

several venues.

Preserve in Marrero, you can

Generations ago, New

canoe, follow nature trails

Orleanians escaped the heat

and learn about the area’s

of the summer by crossing

unique topography.

Lake Pontchartrain to visit

Dining, in all its variations,

what is now called the

is a big part of visiting

Northshore. The communities

the Greater New Orleans

of Covington, Mandeville,

region. The city itself is

Madisonville, Abita Springs

famous for its elegant white-

and Hammond, among

tablecloth restaurants, such

others, offer a plethora of

as Antoine’s, Arnaud’s,

activities including bicycling

Commander’s Palace and

along the Tammany Trace;

Brigtsen’s. But locals know

shopping in Historic

neighborhood spots, such

Downtown Covington;

as Jacques-Imo’s on Oak

grabbing a beer and a burger

Street, Venezia’s in Mid-City

at the Abita Brew Pub; and

and Praline Connection on

feasting on fresh shrimp,

Frenchmen Street, offer

crab and oysters. Covington

delicious food and lively

has become famous for its

atmospheres.

Three Rivers Art Festival,

Traditional treats include

which draws art-lovers

enjoying café au lait and

from miles away. The

beignets at Café du Monde,

Madisonville Wooden Boat

where you can sit and watch

Festival is another popular

the world go by, or buying a

destination. Many New

muffuletta (an Italian stuffed

Orleans cultural groups,

sandwich) at Central Grocery

such as the symphony

downtown and then sitting

orchestra, offer shows on

on a bench by the Mississippi

the Northshore, as well.

River to eat it. www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 59

heart of louisiana Hodges Gardens State Park

Few states can match Louisiana’s colorful politics; learn the story at the Louisiana Political Museum and Hall of Fame in Winnfield. Gov. Huey P. Long Jr., Oscar K. “O.K.” Allen and Earl K. Long were born in Winnfield. Other stops include the Alexandria Museum of Art, the Old Courthouse Museum in Natchitoches and the Museum of West Louisiana in Leesville. At the Tunica-Biloxi Regional Indian Center & Museum in Marksville, learn about the history of the Tunica and Biloxi Indian tribes. You

can see ancient Indian burial

entral Louisiana,

plantation of the early

Pineville and the Fort Polk

mounds at the Marksville State

which borders both

1800s and a modern cotton

Military Museum. The Arna

Historical Site.

Texas and Mississippi,

plantation and gin. Particular

Bontemps African American

combines Southern charm

attention is paid to the lives

Museum in Alexandria

Natchitoches, the oldest

with aspects of the Old

of the slaves who once

highlights the life of the

permanent settlement in the

West. With its rolling hills

provided the labor that made

Harlem Renaissance writer.

Louisiana Purchase territory,

and piney woods, the area

the plantation successful.

offers many opportunities

Just down the road from

Melrose Plantation,

The lovely town of

is a history lesson in itself.

about 15 miles south of

Its 33-block downtown

for outdoor relaxation. Its

Frogmore in Ferriday is

Natchitoches, is unique

Historic Landmark District

charming cities and towns,

the Delta Music Museum,

in that it was built by and

fronts the Cane River and

such as Natchitoches,

which spotlights the rock

for free blacks. The famed

contains places to shop

Alexandria, Pineville,

’n’ roll and blues musicians

primitive painter, Clementine

and dine, as well as some

Leesville, Ferriday and

from the Delta. Learn more

Hunter, lived and worked

bed-and-breakfast inns. At

Vidalia, are popular places to

about Mickey Gilley; Jerry

at Melrose, and today it

Christmastime, the town is

shop, dine and learn about

Lee Lewis; and Louisiana’s

holds a major arts and craft

brilliantly illuminated during

the region’s history.

“singing governor,” Jimmie

festival. Kent Plantation

its Festival of Lights and

Davis, remembered for

House in Alexandria, built in

Christmas Festival. Be sure

Central Louisiana are wide-

his big hit, “You Are My

1796, is also an interesting

to check out the activities on

ranging. Some provide a look

Sunshine.”

destination. In addition to

tap at Northwestern State

the main house, you can

University.

Visitor attractions in

at the area’s bygone days; at

Our state’s military

Frogmore Cotton Plantation

past is remembered in

see slave cabins, a sugar

& Gins, for example, you

the Louisiana Maneuvers

mill, the milk house and the

the family, you’ll find enough

can tour both a working

& Military Museum in

open-hearth kitchens.

to do in Central Louisiana

60 | Louisiana Life May/June 2013

If your staycation includes

Mark Bills photo

downtown Natchitoches

to keep the younger crowd

is just minutes from the

busy. Alexandria’s T.R.E.E.

Alexandria/Pineville area.

House Children’s Museum

One of the state’s Audubon

and the town’s zoo are two

Golf Trail courses, OakWing

such stops.

is ornamented with lakes,

Youngsters will also enjoy the many outdoor activities

bayous and tall trees. All that outdoor exercise

in the region. Kisatchie

will make you hungry, and

National Forest, more than

Central Louisiana can meet

600,000 acres, is Louisiana’s

that need, too. Natchitoches

only national forest. It’s a

is famous for its meat pies,

great place to fish; hunt;

and Lasyone’s Meat Pie

hike; and go boating,

Restaurant is one of the local

swimming and camping.

favorite places to get one. Try

Toledo Bend Reservoir

the crispy fish at Paradise

is one of the nation’s top

Catfish Kitchen in Pineville

fishing spots, and you can

or Tunk’s Cypress Inn in

also picnic and camp there.

Boyce, noted for its alligator,

At North Toledo Bend State

crawfish and oyster dishes,

Park, near Zwolle, amenities

as well as steaks.

include swimming pools, a boat launch and cabins. Hodges Gardens State

There’s always something good to eat at the area’s festivals, too. The Louisiana

Park in Florien is a serene

Pecan Festival in Colfax pays

getaway with formal rose

homage to the tasty nut with

gardens, colorful azaleas,

pies and pralines, and the

nature trails, waterfalls,

Cochon de Lait Festival in

fountains and cabins. Here

Mansura is the place to try

you may glimpse deer,

suckling pig plus many other

otters, geese, ducks and

Cajun treats. If you like to

other wildlife; canoeing and

wager a bit, you’ll enjoy the

kayaking are also permitted.

Paragon Casino Resort in

If golf is on your list, the OakWing Golf Club

Marksville, with its cinema, spa and restaurants. www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 61

cajun good times Atchafalaya Basin

birthplace of zydeco king Clifton Chenier. The town draws people from all around to its Original Southwest Louisiana Zydeco Music Festival. Opelousas also has plenty of history; founded in 1720 by the French, it’s the state’s third-oldest city and served as the capital of Confederate Louisiana for a short time. The town’s historic district has many beautiful antebellum and Victorian homes, as well as historic churches and cemeteries. And like most Cajun towns, you’ll find lots of places to sample the region’s delicious boudin, crawfish étouffée and other delights. Children will find much to do in Cajun Country. Both Lafayette and Lake Charles have children’s

museums. In DeQuincy, let kids see the train cars at the

f you live in Louisiana’s

is delicious because it makes

Cajun Country, you already

use of the fish, game and crops

know how many fun things

that are plentiful in the region.

time to view the historic

Adjacent to the museum is a

there are to do right in your

One of the favorite foods is

Charpentier District. Long

playground with rides.

own backyard. But if you’re

boudin, a flavorful sausage

ago, lumbermen used

like most of us, the pressure

sold in dozens of small grocery

available pine in the area to

Island brings tours of the

of work and caring for family

stores and even gas stations

build tall, angular homes. The

famous Tabasco factory. In the

means most of your free

throughout the region.

area is now on the National

island’s Jungle Gardens, you

Historic Registry.

can see exotic plants, as well

time is spent taking care of

Many of Cajun Country’s

and free people of color. In Lake Charles, take

DeQuincy Railroad Museum.

A visit to beautiful Avery

as deer, alligator and snowy

everyday business. Vacation

attractions center on the

time, then, is the perfect

area’s history. In Lafayette,

and Lake Charles, celebrates

opportunity to experience for

for example, both the Acadian

the area’s rice crop in many

yourself all the riches that lie

Village and Vermilionville

ways. The Historic Rice

Country is Fred’s Lounge

in your neck of the woods.

illustrate life in the past.

Theatre, an art deco beauty

in the little town of Mamou.

Acadian Village is a folk life

built in 1940, has been lovingly

The lounge is open only on

name from the Acadians,

museum focused on 19th-

restored and features local

Saturdays from 7:30 a.m. to

French Catholics who fled

century Cajun life, while

music events. Crowley also

about 2 p.m., and you’ll find

Acadie (Nova Scotia) and

Vermilionville shows how 18th-

boasts the J.D. Miller Music

plenty of folks dancing as the

eventually settled in South

century Acadian settlers lived.

Recording Studio Museum,

lively Cajun music is broadcast

opened in 1946 and restored

for a radio program. In

Cajun Country takes its

Louisiana. Their rich culture

Evangeline Oak Park in

Crowley, between Lafayette

egrets, among other wildlife. A real fixture in Cajun

endures today and can be

St. Martinville is home to an

to its original state. The studio

Eunice, visit the Liberty

enjoyed in the region’s unique

ancient live oak named for the

once recorded tunes by local

Theatre to enjoy a live radio

food, music and festivals.

heroine of Longfellow’s famous

Cajun, zydeco, blues, country

show with zydeco music.

poem. The park also contains

and swamp pop artists.

People sometimes equate Cajun food with hot, spicy

an African American museum

food. In reality, Cajun cuisine

recounting the lives of slaves

62 | Louisiana Life May/June 2013

If you are a Cajun music buff, be sure to visit Opelousas, the

Cajun Country is sometimes called Louisiana’s festival capital. There are so many

DeQuincy Railroad Museum

fests that you’re almost sure

hiking, backpacking, cycling

to find one coinciding with

and camping. Cabins are

your vacation. Like omelets?

available, too. The Louisiana

At Abbeville’s Giant Omelette

State Arboretum, located

Celebration, cooks make a

within the park, is a stately

5,000-egg omelet in a 12-foot

beech forest with nature

skillet. The fest is said to

trails. Native plants along the

harken back to a time when

trails are labeled so you can

Napoleon ordered French

increase your knowledge of

villagers to bring out all their

Louisiana plant life.

eggs to feed his soldiers. Meanwhile, the Rayne Frog

Check out the Creole Nature Trail, a state scenic

Festival holds frog-jumping

route, which is composed

and frog-racing contests –

of Cameron Prairie National

bring your own contender.

Wildlife Refuge, Lacassine

The Festival International

National Wildlife Refuge,

de Louisiane in Lafayette

Sabine National Wildlife

includes music, food and

Refuge, Peveto Woods Bird

arts and crafts; Crowley’s

& Butterfly Sanctuary and

Rice Festival celebrates the

Rockefeller Wildlife Refuge,

harvesting of the rice crop;

from which you can view

and the Contraband Days-

alligator and shorebirds. Or try

Louisiana Pirate Festival in

the Lake Charles Boardwalk,

Lake Charles recalls the days

which follows the lake and is

of pirate Jean Lafitte.

popular with walkers, bikers

Like so much of Louisiana, Cajun Country provides lots

and joggers. For a different type of

of outdoor entertainment. The

relaxation, spend a day or two

swamps and wetlands of the

at one of the area’s gambling

vast Atchafalaya Basin, the

venues. Bet on the horses

nation’s largest river-swamp,

at Delta Downs Racetrack

is heaven for those who

Casino Hotel in Vinton, or try

like to bicycle, camp, hunt,

the slots and table games at

fish, play golf or spot birds.

the Isle of Capri Casino Hotel

Calcasieu Lake near Lake

and L’Auberge Casino Resort,

Charles is well-known for its

both in Lake Charles.

abundant fish, including trout, redfish and flounder. Chicot State Park near Ville

In short, there’s no need to feel down if your vacation budget this year doesn’t

Platte is more than 6,000 acres

permit an expensive trek to a

of natural beauty. If you crave

far-flung destination. You can

catching largemouth bass

satisfy just about any vaca-

or bluegill, here’s your spot.

tion-related yen you have not

Ditto for those who enjoy

far from your own backyard. www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 63

ADVERTISING SECTION

Louisiana Destinations Statewide Summer Travel

njoy the beautiful spring and slow summer days in Louisiana this year with weekend, weeklong or day trips across the state. Whether you choose to explore new territory or visit old favorites, you’re sure to find an outing right for you. Family fun abounds at festivals and community events, while opportunities for girls’ weekends or leisure trips include everything from quaint small-town getaways to exciting big city stays and relaxing resort vacations. In addition to unique cultural offerings across Louisiana’s many parishes, cities and towns, destinations for dining, arts, entertainment and lodging also factor in to the following mixed bag of summer opportunities close to home. Louisiana Parishes, Cities & Towns Savor the difference in Iberia Parish — New Iberia, Avery Island, Jefferson Island, Jeanerette, Loreauville and Delcambre, located in the midst of the Atchafalaya National Heritage Area. Experience the heat at Avery Island’s world-famous TABASCO® Factory, Country Store and Jungle Gardens. Tour Conrad Rice Mill, America’s oldest operating rice mill, and KONRIKO® Company Store. Discover Iberia’s history and industries at the Jeanerette Sugar Museum; Bayou Teche Museum; and Shadows-on-the-Teche Plantation Home and Gardens, the first National Trust for Historic Preservation® property in the Gulf South. Watch a salt mine swallow a lake at Rip Van Winkle Gardens on Jefferson Island. Stroll along Bayou Teche and New Iberia’s national award-winning Main Street and Historic District, captured in the famed Dave Robicheaux novels by New Iberia native and award-winning author James Lee Burke. Of course, you’ll want to allow time to smell 100 varieties of roses at Antique Rose Ville. Spring and summer events abound. Enjoy Bunk Fest, Cruisin’ Cajun Country Cruise In, Delcambre Shrimp Festival, seafood and farmers’ markets, fishing rodeos, and more. For information, call 888-942-3742 or visit www.iberiatravel.com. Just off I-10 and west of Lafayette lies the “Cajun Prairie,” Acadia

64 | Louisiana Life May/June 2013

Parish, an area known for its unique attractions, numerous year-round festivals and rich history and folklore. In Crowley, home of the International Rice Festival, tour the Rice Interpretive Center, the Historic Crowley Ford Motor Co., built in 1920, as well as the J.D. Miller Recording Studio. Travel the Zydeco Cajun Prairie Byway and visit Kelly’s Landing Agricultural Museum to take an informative walk through the past while viewing the farming equipment of yesteryear and learning the importance of crawfish and rice to the region. See why Rayne, LA, home of the annual Frog Festival, is both “The Frog Capital of the World” and the “Louisiana City of Murals.” Similarly, check out the Buggy Festival at “The Buggy Capital of the World,” also known as Church Point, LA, and visit the Le Vieux Presbytere Museum with bousillage, mud walls. Roberts Cove, LA, is home to the German Heritage Museum and the popular Germanfest. For more information, events, destinations and festival dates check out AcadiaTourism.org or call 877-783-2109. Plan your summer adventure to historic Natchitoches by visiting the newly constructed Louisiana Sports Hall of Fame Museum opening this July. Learn about and connect with several Louisiana sports legends through spectacular displays that feature the great athletics of Shaquille O’Neal, Terry Bradshaw, Deuce McAllister, Skip Bertman and Bobby Hebert. Inductees represent a wide variety of sports to include football, basketball, baseball, softball, tennis, golf, motor sports, wrestling, hunting and fishing, horse-racing and track and field. Located on Front Street in historic Natchitoches, the museum will further solidify Natchitoches as a tourist destination. Natchitoches is a great destination for a girls’ getaway! The Natchitoches Historic Downtown Association will host a “Girls Weekend” June 7-9. Activities include a wine and cheese social at Melrose Plantation, a movie night featuring Steel Magnolias (filmed in Natchitoches), “Art Under the Oaks” painting classes, discount shopping and so much more. To plan your trip to Natchitoches, call 800-259-1714 or visit www. Natchitoches.net.

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Lafayette, LA, is all about festivals, food and music. For many, a love of Cajun and Zydeco music is a craving that can only be satisfied by a visit to discover all that makes Lafayette special— unique live music venues, delectable food that can be found everywhere from gas stations to fine dining establishments and year-round festivals that showcase local musicians, artists and cuisine. From June 17-Sept. 2, enjoy EatLafayette, a summer-long celebration of the locally owned restaurants that make Lafayette’s culture so appetizing. With a wide variety of restaurants offering mouth-watering specials, EatLafayette is sure to make dining out easier on your pocketbook so you have more to spend on great live music and entertainment. Join the people of Lafayette and manger in support of Lafayette’s one-of-a-kind cuisine. They’ve got a place set just for you. For more info on EatLafayette™ visit EatLafayette.com and visit Lafayette.travel for more summer destinations and events. “Aw shucks, y’all!!” Ask any Avoyellean and you’ll learn that Avoyelles Parish is a splendid, even “corny,” place to call home. Corn is a major crop in Avoyelles and a favorite food also. This year,

Louisiana Sports Hall of Fame Museum

visit Bunkie for a true corn celebration at the 27th Annual Louisiana Corn Festival, which runs June 14-16. Corn is king in Bunkie in June, with Scarecrow Contests, corny balloon launches, parades, corn shucking, corn eating and corn cooking competitions, Corn Queens and Princesses, food booths, carnival rides, music and honors for local corn farmers. A festival favorite is the Corn Festival Country Store with arts, crafts, festival posters, cookbooks and much more. A truly fun family affair, the festival offers music, dancing and all the mouth-watering, hot, buttered corn you can handle. Gather the family and head to Bunkie. Enjoy the corniest, most wonderful weekend possible this side of heaven. For additional information, visit bunkiechamber.net/cornfestival. It’s peach season in Louisiana, and in Ruston/Lincoln Parish, the fuzzy fruit brings both flavor and fun. From Friday, June 21st, through Saturday, June 22, head to downtown Ruston for the 2013 Louisiana Peach Festival. Each night features live music in downtown’s Railroad Park. Music and peaches aren’t the only draw to this 63rd annual festival. Sports enthusiasts can show off their skills in the 5K run, rodeo or in one of several tournaments: tennis, golf and bass fishing. Saturday’s events also include an arts and crafts show, fine arts

show, antique car show and a parade. Fill your bags at the Trenton Street Marketplace before filling your belly at the Downtown Food Court. Don’t forget to bring a sweet tooth to the fest. Sink your teeth into the main event: a sweet and juicy Louisiana peach. For more information on the festival, visit LouisianaPeachFestival.org. For more information on events and destinations in Ruston and Lincoln Parish, visit www.experienceruston.com. It’s time to discover Baton Rouge—where the weather is always warm, the food has a special little kick, and the people are ready to entertain. From every direction, everything uniquely Louisiana culminates in the “Red Stick.” So while you’re in Baton Rouge, take time to experience all the city has to offer—from an eclectic mix of museums and political landmarks to unique shopping destinations and antebellum homes. Baton Rouge is a city full of colorful history, rich culture, vibrant music and exquisite cuisine—a truly cultural hot spot sure to impress. Enjoy fest season in Baton Rouge! Bring your appetite and your toga May 11th to the annual Baton Rouge Greek Festival. Later in the month, Bayou Country Superfest will align the biggest stars in country music for a two-day celebration in LSU Tiger Stadium (May 25-26). The concert lineup includes Lady Antebellum, Zac Brown Band, Miranda Lambert, Luke Bryan, Darius Rucker, the Band Perry, Thompson Square, Rodney Atkins, Aaron Lewis, and Frankie Ballard. For more information, call 800-LA-ROUGE or visit www. VisitBatonRouge.com. For more on each festival, visit BRGreekFest. com and BayouCountrySuperFest.com. The Alexandria/Pineville area is at the heart of family fun this summer. Central Louisiana is a great place for a family escape with affordable lodging, family-friendly restaurants, and a lot of exciting kid-friendly activities. With museums, zoos and safaris, the Children’s Museum and train rides, the whole family is sure to enjoy a summer vacation in the Heart of Louisiana. Need a more thrilling adventure? Explore the great outdoors by hiking the longest hiking trail in Louisiana, the 28-mile Wild Azalea Trail, located in Rapides Parish in the beautifully verdant Kisatchie National Forest. Or, hit the links and explore rolling green fairways at one of Alexandria/Pineville’s six competitive golf courses. For an unconventional golfing twist, play one of the area’s disc golf courses. No matter your interests, the Heart of Louisiana has it all! Visit www.theheartoflouisiana.com today to plan your summer trip. Visit beautiful Bayou Lafourche for a wide array of unique Louisiana events and destinations. The good times start rolling this spring and summer at the Thibodaux Firemen’s Fair & Parade on May 2-5. On June 7-9, The Bon Mangé Festival takes over Gheens with food, music and carnival rides. Get your fishin’ rods ready for the Golden Meadow-Fourchon International Tarpon Rodeo July 4-6 at Moran’s Marina in Fourchon, and celebrate the 4th of July this year with fireworks, food and fun at the Let Freedom Ring Festival at Peltier Park in Thibodaux. Summer is also a great time of year to venture outdoors and see Louisiana’s unique wetlands on one of the area’s many available swamp tours, or learn about the area’s history at the Jean Lafitte National Park Wetlands Acadian Culture Center. Go back in time during a visit to Laurel Valley Village Sugar Plantation & Museum in Thibodaux and the Bayou Lafourche Folklife and Heritage Museum in Lockport. Learn the art and craft of wooden boat building at the Center for Traditional Louisiana Boatbuilding in Lockport. Find endless events and attractions at www.visitlafourche.com and experience all Lafourche has to offer. Surrounded by the waters of Bayou Teche, the Atchafalaya River and the Atchafalaya Swamp Basin, the Cajun Coast in St. Mary Parish is known for its natural splendor and “road less www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 65

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traveled” atmosphere. There’s no better way to spend a spring day than exploring the Atchafalaya National Heritage Area or winding along the Bayou Teche Scenic Byway. Cajun Jack’s Swamp Tours takes visitors through the Atchafalaya Basin, the largest overflow swamp in the U.S. You can experience the wilderness by paddling through the Bayou Teche National Wildlife Refuge. Golfers won’t want to miss a chance to hit the Atchafalaya at Idlewild, which was rated the No. 1 golf course in Louisiana by Golfweek Magazine in 2008 and 2009. This spring, St Mary Parish is alive with festivals and events including the Atchafalaya Powerboat Race, the Battle of the Basin, outdoor drag boat racing, Bayou BBQ Bash and the Louisiana Shrimp & Petroleum Festival. For more information, visit cajuncoast.com.

Ruston’s Louisiana Peach Festival

For a serene escape into a place of beauty, visit Iberville Parish, an historical Louisiana gem tucked between the quiet swamps of the Atchafalaya Basin and the bustling capital of Baton Rouge. Step through time and elegance at one of the many magnificent antebellum homes like Nottoway Plantation, the South’s largest remaining antebellum mansion located in White Castle. Other historical attractions include The Plaquemine Lock State Historic Site, The Hansen’s Disease Museum in Carville, The Iberville Museum and the majestic St. John the Evangelist Catholic Church, the purest example of Italian Romanesque architecture in the South. With so many beautiful diverse waterways, fishing and bird watching opportunities are endless, making it a premier outdoor getaway in the heart of the Atchafalaya National Heritage Area. Enjoy a relaxing golf outing at one of Louisiana’s most popular courses, The Island, located in Plaquemine. End your day by dining along the mighty Mississippi and enjoying fresh seafood with a Louisiana sunset at Roberto’s River Road Restaurant located in Sunshine. For more destinations and events, go to VisitIberville.com. St. Tammany Parish, aka “Louisiana’s Northshore,” is a great getaway spot known for scenic beauty and charming towns. Experience boutique shopping and art galleries, the primeval beauty of the Honey Island Swamp and a vibrant, diverse culinary scene. This summer, see and eat some of Louisiana’s finest seasonal produce and products abundant among Northshore communities. Saturday farmers and artisan markets are plentiful and bountiful. Stock up on fruits, veggies, prepared foods and more by visiting the Mandeville Trailhead Community Market, the Camellia City Market in Slidell, the Covington Farmers Market and the Folsom Community Farmers Market. Take the family out for a picnic and

berry-picking at farms like Covington’s Blue Harvest Farms and Ridemore Berry Farm (an organic foods farm) or Sunhillow Berry Farm in Pearl River.   Summer events include Abita Springs Opry and Pontchartrain Vineyards Jazz’n the Vines Outdoor Concert Series, the Covington Bicentennial Celebration, the Louisiana Bicycle Festival, and the Slidell Heritage Festival. For a complete listing, visit LouisianaNorthshore.com/la_life. New Orleans Plantation Country, a tri-parish area made up of St. Charles, St. James and St. John parishes, is home to some of the most famous plantation homes in the country, and the plantations’ unique stories and fascinating differences make each one worthy of a visit. Experience any and all of the nine magnificent plantations and hear real, historical accounts of the people who lived there—English sugar barons, Creole women, slaves and soldiers—all with their own perspectives on the time and place in which they lived. Visitors examine artifacts, read stories and touch the history that extends from grand ballrooms to impoverished slave cabins. Swamp tours, mouth-watering cuisine, shaded gardens and a feast of festivals weave their magic into your adventure as well. Accommodations with full amenities make for memorable stays. The winding River Road between New Orleans and Baton Rouge provides an unforgettable journey where storytellers will captivate you, and you’ll leave with your own stories to tell. For more information on each plantation as well as travel deals and more, go to VisitNOPC.com. St. Martin Parish draws visitors year-round with welcoming hospitality, world-class music and famous local cuisine. Accommodations include beautiful B&B’s, cabins, campgrounds and chain hotels. Breaux Bridge offers an array of shopping, antiquing and world-renowned hot spots like the famous Zydeco Breakfast at Cafe des Amis or Cajun music and dancing nightly at Mulate’s Restaurant. The Henderson area, at the edge of the Atchafalaya Basin, offers airboat and swamp tours and familyowned restaurants such as Robins Restaurant and Crawfish Town USA. On Sundays, Dancing on the Levee starts at McGee’s Landing at noon, ventures to Whiskey River for Zydeco and ends the night at Pat’s Atchafalaya Club. St. Martinville plays host to countless festivals and quaint cafes in the beautiful downtown district. Take heritage tours at Acadian Memorial, African American Museum and Longfellow-Evangeline State Historic Site. Outdoors enthusiasts should take advantage of numerous canoe/kayak/bicycle rentals. Highlights of year-round events include Le Cajun Music Festival, Pepper Festival, Creole Zydeco Festival, Breaux Bridge City Wide Garage Sale and the Tour du Teche, a 130-mile canoe race along the Bayou Teche. See “where Cajun began,” at CajunCountry.org. Proudly distinguished as “The Most Cajun Place on Earth,” Vermilion Parish in South Louisiana is alive with the food, music, language and scenery that define the Cajun cultural heritage. Located minutes south of Lafayette and just west of New Iberia, the towns of Delcambre, Erath, Abbeville, Kaplan, Gueydan and others all bring a little lagniappe to the enchanting region. Stroll through Abbeville’s Annual Daylily Festival and Garden Show held on June 1 in historic downtown. Hundreds of plants, garden items and more will be for sale in Magdalen Square. While in Abbeville, visit the Depot at Magdalen Place, an authentic freight depot with two cabooses for gift shopping and more. Abbeville is also home to the Sam Guarino Blacksmith Shop and Museum. The shop operated for nearly 100 years and now displays the equipment, history and importance of the trade. Don’t forget to grab a bite to eat. Seafood lovers will want to visit Shucks. From raw or grilled oysters to seafood gumbo and classic specialties, they offer a menu to please every palate.

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For more destinations, events and travel ideas, visit MostCajun.com. Discover an unforgettable place soothing to the soul—visit St. Francisville, LA, nationally recognized for its extensive historic district, surrounding plantation homes and 19th-century gardens. Founded in the early 1800s on the bluffs overlooking the Mississippi River, this quaint town boasts numerous informative markers telling the stories of its gingerbread-trimmed townhouses, fine commercial structures and historic churches. Interpretive programs are regularly presented at the two state historic sites located in West Feliciana Parish: Rosedown Plantation and Oakley Plantation, where John James Audubon painted much of his Birds of America series in 1821. The rolling Tunica hills, unspoiled woodlands and in-town sports park provide opportunities for year-round recreation. Bed & breakfast inns and motels offer cozy accommodations for weekend getaways, and local festivals celebrate everything from hummingbirds and homegrown art to an authentic country Christmas. Cafés, restaurants, boutique shops, art and antiques galleries filled with the unexpected entice visitors to St. Francisville and West Feliciana year-round. West Feliciana is the perfect setting for intimate weddings, romantic weekends, celebrations of special occasions, outdoor recreation or rest and relaxation. Plan your experience today by visiting www.StFrancisville.us. For a spring or summer festival adventure, let Houma be your passport to Louisiana’s Bayou Country. With thrilling swamp tours, a wildlife park and alligator farm, world-class charter fishing and a wide assortment of festivals, fairs, fetes, fais do dos and more, there’s always something fun to do. A terrific lineup of family-friendly events includes the TGMC 5K Run for Excellence and Cajun Food Fest presented by The Courier on May 11 with a 1-mile Fun Run, Walk, 5K race and plenty of food to delight. The Houma Oilman’s Fishing Invitational, hosted by TriParish.net, takes place in Cocodrie May 23-25. On June 29, salute the flag with family fun at the Houma/Terrebonne Independence Day Celebration, which features a Memorial Service at Houma’s Veteran’s Memorial; the Patriots Parade; entertainment and food at the Houma-Terrebonne Civic Center; the Independence Day Dash sponsored by the Bayou Runners Association; and a fireworks show beginning at 9:30 p.m. Stay the entire weekend, and let Houma be your passport to adventure. For more information, call 985-868-2732 or visit houmatravel.com.

Grand Isle State Park

Every day is an adventure in Grand Isle, LA. True to the state’s “Sportsman’s Paradise,” nickname, Grand Isle provides a wealth of exciting activities. Fishing is a main attraction, as more than 280 species of fish and four seasons of fishing bring in anglers from every corner of the state. The remote island oasis also hosts thousands of migrating birds, making it an ideal location for birdwatchers. Seven miles of beaches are open to the public and perfect for a weekend road trip. One of the area’s most popular attractions, Grand Isle State Park, features white sand beaches, a 400-foot fishing pier, nature trails and overnight camping. Louisiana’s only inhabited barrier island, Grand Isle was first home to the Chitimacha tribe before European settlement began in the 1780s. Plantations on the island raised sugar cane, cotton and cattle, and much like today, the locals fished off the coast, harvesting shrimp and oysters. Host to pirates such as Jean Lafitte and later to Confederate soldiers, the region has a rich history that adds to today’s experience. For more info, including charter fishing, lodging, events and more, visit www.grand-isle.com. Webster Parish, in the piney hills of Northwest Louisiana, is a beautiful destination for a safe, fun and family-friendly outing. Just 30 miles east of Shreveport, the natural beauty and historic charms of the region draw visitors, festival-goers and even professional filmmakers. This summer, Webster Parish warms up with the Heflin Sawmill Festival on May 4th followed by the Annual Trails and Trellises Garden Tour on May 18. Then put on your cowboy boots and hat and celebrate the 61th Annual Springhill PRCA Rodeo, the oldest rodeo in Louisiana, May 30–June 1. This is rodeo at its finest held at 8 p.m. nightly in Springhill. For more information on Webster Parish festivals and fun, call 800-2MINDEN or check out www.visitwebster.net. Looking for a place with rich heritage and tradition, a place that embraces a sense of small town charm just steps from a big city? Visit “New Orleans’ Most Historic Neighbor,” St. Bernard Parish, located along the Mississippi River and only five miles from downtown New Orleans. Walk in the footsteps of Andrew Jackson at the historic Chalmette Battlefield or learn the traditions of the Canary Islanders at the Isleños Museum, the last vestige of Spanish Colonial Louisiana. While there, be sure to try your hand at some of their world-class fishing or meander down the historic San Bernardo Scenic Byway, viewing stately old plantation homes, ancient oaks and picturesque bayous along the way. St. Bernard offers something for the entire family, starting with the Tomato Fest during the first weekend in May. Then, sign the family up for the Hook a Kid on Fishing Rodeo in mid-June. Leave room for the Second Annual Mac & Cheese Showdown in July to sample your way through new recipes of a classic dish. For all the details and additional attractions, call 504-278-4242 or check out VisitStBernard.com. Arts, Entertainment AND Accommodations Across the State Swinging syncopation wafts through the LSU Museum of Art this summer as artists Herman Leonard and Edward Pramuk capture the spirit of jazz in An Eye on Jazz: Photographs by Herman Leonard and Edward Pramuk: Seeing Music. This duo of exhibitions opens on the fifth floor of the Shaw Center for the Arts in downtown Baton Rouge on May 10 and runs through July 14. The exhibitions explore how music, musicians and musical ideas have influenced visual arts in the 20th century. Jazz photographer Herman Leonard was captivated by the ambiance of smoke-laced jazz clubs, as was painter Edward Pramuk, a retired LSU professor and resident of Baton Rouge. www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 67

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“I do not feel alone when I work,” Pramuk says. “I have the brilliant sounds of jazz men and women filling my studio.” Shown alongside 36 of Leonard’s striking black-and-white photographs, over two dozen of Pramuk’s musical-themed paintings, drawings, and mixed-media collages will share their time in the spotlight at the LSU Museum of Art. For more information, please visit the museum’s Web site, www. lsumoa.org, or call the museum at 225-389-7200. Enjoy Louisiana’s sunny summer weather with a stroll around LSU’s historic campus, home of the LSU Foundation. The 2,000-acre property, nestled in South Baton Rouge, is defined by an Italian Renaissance character marked by red pantile, overhanging eaves and honey-colored stucco. Dedicated in 1926, the current campus includes 46 buildings that are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. During the 1930s, many of LSU’s live oaks and magnolia trees were planted by landscape artist Steele Burden. The roughly 1,200 towering oaks have been valued at $50 million and are supported through the LSU Foundation’s Endow an Oak program. LSU’s landscaping was called a “botanical joy” in its listing among the 20 best campuses in America in Thomas Gaines’ The Campus as a Work of Art. With myriad architectural and natural beauties, several museums and year-round theater, art and athletic events, opportunities abound to experience Louisiana’s flagship university. Visit lsufoundation.org to learn more about what the school and campus have to offer. In Bossier City, located along the picturesque banks of the Red River, is a shopping, dining and entertainment mecca full of store favorites, tasty dining options and family-friendly entertainment. Host to dozens of retailers, Louisiana Boardwalk has something for everyone, from the rustic outdoorsman and clothing specialties for the little ones to the teen looking for the hottest styles and brands. Louisiana Boardwalk brims with activity all year round. With special events, an IMAX stadiumseating movie theater, arcade and carousel, kids can play while adults enjoy the decadent dining, peaceful shopping or a romantic evening stroll along the river and fountains. This summer, stock up on all the latest fashions, gifts and gadgets. From salon and spa treatments to clothing and sporting goods, Louisiana Boardwalk’s numerous retailers cover every need. Rest your feet and satisfy your hunger with a savory meal or sweet treat at one of several Boardwalk restaurants. Nestled conveniently near Shreveport-Bossier’s vibrant downtown, the Louisiana Boardwalk is the perfect destination for shopping and fun in North Louisiana. Visit Louisianaboardwalk.com for more information, event listings and a directory of businesses. Like them on Facebook at Facebook.com/LouisianaBoardwalk. Experience Coushatta’s New Seven Clans Hotel. Coushatta Casino Resort is bigger and better with the addition of the brand new 401-room, ultra-modern Seven Clans Hotel. Book your room at this beautiful property that is 100 percent smoke-free with the latest amenities in luxury and style, such as ultra-quiet rooms with spa-style showers, custom bedding and linens as well as large HDTVs with free HBO and free WiFi. Guests will love the convenience of room service, as well as having Bar 7 cocktail bar and PJ’s Coffee of New Orleans coffee shop located right in the hotel lobby. Casino action is just steps away with more than 2,800 slots, more than 70 table games, live poker and off-track betting. Rates start at $89. Call 1-888-774-7263 or book online at www.coushattacasinoresort.com/accommodations/seven-clans/. Centrally located in the heart of the historic French Quarter, the Royal Sonesta Hotel New Orleans is “THE” destination of choice for all visitors seeking an authentic travel experience in the Big Easy. With 68 | Louisiana Life May/June 2013

doors that open to world-famous Bourbon Street, this landmark hotel features the locals’ favorite coffee freshly roasted at PJ’s Coffee Café, live jazz nightly at Irvin Mayfield’s Jazz Playhouse, and award winning-dining at New Orleans most acclaimed new restaurant, Restaurant R’Evolution, where chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto reinterpret Cajun and Creole cuisine seven days a week. For more information or to make reservations, visit Sonesta.com/ royalneworleans or call 1-800-SONESTA. Dining In Louisiana, there seems to be a festival for every day of the year, and Rouses makes a point of being involved in as many as they can, whether it be through sponsorship, food preparation or community support. This year marks the 21st anniversary of the New Orleans Food & Wine Experience (May 22-26). Rouses chefs will join vintners and other famous Louisiana chefs at this decadent culinary extravaganza. For the third consecutive year, Rouses will be sampling their own unique chef creations. Join in the fun this year and help support numerous great community causes just by sampling the variety of delicious concoctions. Rouses is also presenting the New Orleans Food & Wine Experience’s Street Stroll, an art gallery walk featuring music, fine wine, fine food and the 2013 Louisiana Seafood Cook Off, a prized feature of the festival. Chefs from around the state will compete for the crown. For more info on Rouses and to find the location nearest you, visit rouses.com. Prejean’s Restaurant

In the heart of French Louisiana, Prejean’s Restaurant has earned a worldwide reputation for its Cajun cuisine. A favorite among locals and visitors alike, this Lafayette destination has been delighting guests for more than 30 years. Prejean’s holds the record for most medals captured by any culinary team in the south, and their juicy steaks, wild game dishes and world famous gumbos turn a meal into a memorable occasion. Prejean’s has been voted No. 1 Best Ethnic Restaurant in all of the South by AAA Southern Traveler. Traditional Cajun bands entertain nightly, and the restaurant is filled with antiques, historic relics and artworks by resident artists. Breakfast is served daily from 7 a.m. to 10:15 a.m. and until 1 p.m. on Saturdays and Sundays. Lunch is offered Monday through Friday until 2 p.m. For more information, or to order overnight deliveries to nearly anywhere in the lower 48 U.S., visit prejeans. com or call 337-896-3247. You can also find and follow Prejean’s online via Facebook. •

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Regional Travel Summer Outside of the State

ouisiana’s neighbors offer a smattering of travel opportunities this summer, from Texas-size shopping fun to the verdant landscapes of Arkansas, and fine arts as well as fine dining and nightlife in Mississippi. Whether you’re looking to discover a piece of history or plan an exciting weekend of indoor or outdoor play, you’ll find exactly what you need among the following regional travel destinations. Take just a short drive outside of Louisiana and discover a world of fun. Sometimes the greatest escapes are the ones closest to you. Discover one-of-a-kind attractions in Arkansas. Add these unique destinations to your travel plans. William J. Clinton Presidential Center and Park — America’s 12th presidential library, the Clinton Center is located on the banks of the Arkansas River in the River Market district of downtown Little Rock. The library contains the largest collection of presidential papers and artifacts in U.S. history and includes an authentic replica of the Oval Office and the Cabinet Room. Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art — This premier art institution in northwest Arkansas houses a permanent collection

William J. Clinton Presidential Center and Park

of American masterworks, as well as temporary exhibits from national museums. Museum grounds include gardens, ponds, an overlook and the Crystal Bridges Trail, which links to downtown Bentonville. Be sure to check out the Walmart Visitor Center and the new 21c Museum Hotel in the town square. From historical sites and museums to the beautiful outdoors, there is much to see and do. Visit Arkansas.com or call 1-800NATURAL for a free Vacation Planning Kit and start planning your escape today. Old Masters to Monet: Three Centuries of French Painting from the Wadsworth Atheneum is on view at the Mississippi Museum of Art in Jackson, Miss., now through Sept. 8. The exhibition features 50 masterpieces of French art ranging from the 17th-19th centuries and into the beginning of the 20th century. Théodore Géricault, Eugène Delacroix, Edgar Degas, Camille Pissarro, Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Paul Cézanne, Vincent van

Mississippi Museum of Art

Gogh, Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec and Claude Monet are among the masters represented. This exhibition was organized by the Wadsworth Atheneum Museum of Art, Hartford, CT, and is supported by an indemnity from the Federal Council on the Arts and the Humanities. Old Masters to Monet is the 13th installation of The Annie Laurie Swaim Hearin Memorial Exhibition Series at the Mississippi Museum of Art. Admission is $12 for adults, $10 for seniors (60+) and $6 for students. For more information, visit www.msmuseumart.org or call 601-960-1515. Louisiana’s Gulf Coast neighbor, Texas, recently welcomed Royal Sonesta Hotel Houston to the heart of Houston’s bustling and sought-after Galleria area. The landmark property pampers guests with luxurious accommodations, sophisticated amenities, award-winning staff and a premier location just blocks from the famed Galleria mall. Visitors also enjoy myriad shops and restaurants lining Post Oak Boulevard and close proximity to premier business and leisure destinations including Memorial Park, the Texas Medical Center and Downtown. For more information or to make reservations, visit Sonesta. com/royalhouston or call 1-800-SONESTA. Located one hour east of New Orleans is the Southeast’s largest resort to receive the AAA Four Diamond award reflecting enhanced style, hospitality, service and attention to detail. Recognized by Travel + Leisure as one of the top resorts in the country, MGM Resorts International’s Beau Rivage Resort & Casino in Biloxi, Miss., is the premier destination for entertainment, gaming, dining and relaxation in the region. With more than 1,700 luxurious guest rooms, 85,000 square feet of gaming space, 11 restaurants, four lounges and bars, a 1,550-seat theater, 12 retail venues, a spa and salon, tropical pool and Fallen Oak, a Tom Fazio-designed golf course, Beau Rivage offers everything the discerning vacationer can imagine. Beau Rivage’s theatrical circus sensation Funambula, performs June 11-Aug. 11. Tickets start at $12.95 and room packages are available. Headline entertainment during the summer also includes Joan Jett and the Blackhearts, Cheap Trick, Gladys Knight, Menopause the Musical and Ron White. Plan now for The Beach Boys on Oct. 11 and 12 during the annual Cruisin’ the Coast car event. For more information or to make reservations, visit www.beaurivage.com or call 888-567-6667. • www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 69

around louisiana Regional Reports from across the state compiled and edited by jeanne frois

northern Worth Recalling The Battles of Madison Parish

that had been shipped to

Perched high in the northeast

be burned before it fell

began an arduous land

Army was able to cross

corner of the Bayou State,

into Union hands. Many a

invasion. His attempt to build

the Mississippi River to its

Madison Parish sports a

planter was affected by this

land canals that would divert

eastern shore at Bruinsburg

fascinating past. Located

loss. In addition, Madison

the Mississippi River from

below Vicksburg without

there are the Fitzhugh

Parish was being plagued

Vicksburg failed miserably.

trouble in late April.

Mounds and the Raffman

by Union jayhawkers.

New Orleans from across the state for storage to

The thick cane and cypress

In June 1863, the Battle of

Richmond was on a vital

Milliken’s Bend in Madison

Confederate supply route

swamps of the area became

Parish was fought between

that fed the Vicksburg

a refuge for a particularly

Confederates and the

garrison. The victory at

the Louisiana land once

motley crew composed

black troops of the Union

Milliken’s Bend severed

predominantly occupied

of runaway slaves, army

Army. The use of black

the supply line, and the

by the American Indians

deserters and those generally

troops in the Army was

blue-clads advanced to

was now rich with cotton;

involved in dodging the

a hotbed of controversy;

Richmond. After lively

wealthy planters ruled over

draft. Led by a former slave,

this battle marked the first

skirmishes with a Texan

their fields filled with the

this band, more than 100

major conflict between

troop led by Maj. Gen.

puffy white crop that turned

strong, routinely robbed,

Confederates and black

John Walker, the Federals

rose-colored at sunrise

kidnapped or murdered

troops. It was a bloody

crossed Roundaway Bayou

and sunset. The town of

unsuspecting passersby on

hand-to-hand battle, and

and burned the town of

Richmond, once the parish

roadways. Attempting to stop

the Rebels were about to

Richmond, site of Walker’s

seat of Madison Parish, was a

the crime spree perpetrated

take Milliken’s Bend when

headquarters, to the ground.

bustling place 10 miles from

by the outlaws, a group of

heavy Union gunboat fire

Vicksburg fell less than

the Mississippi River and on

Confederates donned Union

drove them back. This

a month later, and the

the road from Vicksburg to

uniforms, approached the

conflict left more than 1,000

Confederacy was split in

Texas. The Roundaway and

dissolute band and were

casualties, and the road to

two. Coinciding with the fall

Brushy bayous conjoined at

warmly greeted by its giant

Vicksburg was growing

of Vicksburg that July was

Richmond, and the planters,

of a leader. The disguised

ever shorter for the Union

the disastrous Confederate

using slave labor, cleared a

soldiers struck quickly, and a

Army. Over in Mississippi,

defeat at Gettysburg. The

60-foot channel that allowed

short time later, nearly 130 of

the brilliant diversionary raid

strong showing of the

small steamships to wend

the desperadoes lay dead, with

of Benjamin Grierson delib-

black troops at Milliken’s

their way up the bayou from

the others escaping for their

erately held the Confederate

Bend vindicated Lincoln’s

the Mississippi River at New

lives never to return again.

Army’s attention on his

decision that they should

Across the Mississippi

pillaging; destruction of

fight to preserve the Union.

River, the 200-foot-high

railroads, warehouses,

Nevertheless, they received

Civil War exploded on the

bluffs upon which Vicksburg,

trains and supplies; and

less pay and had to pay for

nation, the quiet cadence of

the Gibraltar of the

general mayhem while the

their uniforms unlike the

life in Madison Parish was

Mississippi River, rose with

Union Army made its way

white soldiers. It wasn’t until

disrupted. With the fall of

powerful guns trained on

toward Vicksburg. Grierson

June 1864 that Congress

New Orleans in 1862, the

Union gunboats below made

eventually kept Confederate

deemed they were to receive

Confederate government

a maritime Union conquest

Gen. J. C. Pemberton so

full pay, retroactively, for

ordered all the cotton

impossible. Ulysses S. Grant

occupied that Grant’s

their service. n

Site, ancient networks of American Indian sites. During the 19th century,

Carthage. By the time the American

72 | Louisiana Life May/June 2013

around louisiana

central Atwood’s Bakery

the mouthwatering coconut cream pie is your decision alone. But delightful sweets aside, the soup and salad and lunch menus offer a pleasing line of choices in both a complementary and original blend of flavors. The Queen’s Soup is a rich and creamy chicken soup made with wild rice. It’s served in a sourdough bowl that soaks up the flavors

Cause to Celebrate Festivals for the Season

are transformed into a

Roy is most enthusiastic

joyous outdoor spring

about the flurry of springtime

Dinner on the Bricks, the

festival, filled with local

activity in his city.

ArtWalk and the Louisiana

artists and craftsman both

“We want to expand the

Dragon Boat Races are

demonstrating and selling

celebration to build a true,

and topped with melted

merging into a triumvirate

their handiwork. There is

unified effort for the entire

provolone cheese.

known as the AlexRiverFete.

a vibrant community of

community,” he says. “We

The three events will also

artists throughout Central

look forward to this one-of-a-

include music, a barbecue

Louisiana who exist beside

kind event that embodies the

salad, made with poulettes

cook-off and areas with

a vibrant community of

talent and heritage that is the

that have been smoked with

interactive activities for kids.

art-lovers, making the

heart of Alexandria.”

pecan wood, is but one layer

festival a perfect fit for the

AlexRiverFete, May 9-11,

of The Atwood sandwich, a

enjoyment of all involved.

Alexandria

buttery and flaky croissant

The historic Cultural Arts District, with its signature brick byways, will be filled

The splendid color and

perfectly. Classic French Onion soup is delectable with its red wine-and-onion base

The bakery’s deservedly renowned smoked chicken

filled with the creamy, smoky chicken salad; apple wood

celebrating its third birthday,

Fork in the Road Spring Dining in Alexandria

is as shimmering as sunlight

When the siren call of a

and tomato, it will make your

in part by the Louisiana

falling on the Red River.

beauteous Central Louisiana

eyes close at first bite. You

Dragon Boat Races and

Since it was launched in

spring finds you unable to

can also order this delicious

the city of Alexandria,

2010, the Dragon Boat Races,

resist and you’re out and

salad sans croissant, served

is a self-guided walking

with racing members that

about soaking up the joys

on a bed of greens with fresh

tour of sorts beloved by

total more than 1,000 and 45

of the warming season, a

veggies and the dressing of

families, also held in the

teams, are expected to draw

stop at Atwood’s Bakery is

your choice.

Cultural Arts District. The

10,000 people to riverbanks

a great way to celebrate the

Atwood’s Bakery,

alleyways, sidewalks and

lined with colorful canopies.

season with light, satisfying

1125 MacArthur Drive,

fare. Whether you can ignore

Alexandria, (318) 445-5134

with delicious food offerings

energy of the Louisiana

from several local restaurants

Dragon Boat Races, now

and eateries. ArtWalk, sponsored

open spaces of the District

Alexandria Mayor Jacques

bacon; and smoked Gouda cheese. Topped with lettuce

photo courtesy of Julia from foodographer.net

www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 73

around louisiana

cajun Cause to Celebrate Picture a Miracle in Grand Coteau

Berchmans, a young Flemish

Perusing the pages of John

Jesuit priest. Beloved for his

Slaughter’s new book, Grand

deep spirituality, intellect and

Coteau, I was to learn of

kindness, the young man was

a remarkable story and

also the picture of humility

another layer of Louisiana’s

He was a lover of ordinary

fascinating cultural history.

things to the point of

Grand Coteau (Big Ridge)

seminarian born in 1599 who was studying to become a

mysticism and emanated the

is a very Catholic town.

paradoxical quality of down-

At the center of this small

to-earth holiness. Portraits

town, nine Catholic institu-

of the saint show him to

tions rise amid the splendid

be a baby-faced young man

beauty of centuries-old oaks

not much more than a boy;

with nestling camellia and

he died in Rome of a fever

that he immediately appeared

this sacred town, Slaughter,

azalea bushes nearby. St.

before his 23rd birthday.

to her and immediately

through the auspices of

Charles College, St. Charles

Petitions for his beatification

she was healed. A doctor

University of Louisiana –

Borromeo Church, Our Lady

began almost immediately

confirmed that she was free

Lafayette, has produced a

of the Oaks Retreat House

following his death, and by

of disease, and the young

compilation of 35 years of his

and the Academy of the

1865 he was declared Blessed

woman pursued her novitiate

photographs of the town. In

by the Vatican.

and received her habit in

Grand Coteau, accompanied

December 1866. A month

by lyrically beautiful text written by Melnick that

Sacred Heart are among them. Grand Coteau is the

The year following his

site of two religious firsts

beatification, a young

after receiving her habit,

for the United States. The

novice of the Society of the

she wrote a letter to her

tells the stories behind the

Religious of the Sacred

Sacred Heart named Mary

archbishop to be forwarded

pictures, the composition of

Heart arrived here in 1821 to

Wilson was sent to Grand

to Rome chronicling the

Slaughter’s photographs and

found what is now the oldest

Coteau because the milder

miracle when Blessed

his colors and camera angles

continuously operated Sacred

climate of Louisiana was

Berchmans again appeared

remind me of vivid impres-

considered beneficial for her

to her. He commended the

sionist paintings. He is a deft

ailing health. Her condition

letter-writing, but he also

master at shadow and light,

Melnick, Catholic faithful are

declined to the point that

told her that she would

color and contrast in pictures

drawn here as pilgrims are

blood would reportedly spew

die before she ended her

that depict rainbows, burning

to Mecca to attend retreats,

from her mouth if she spoke.

novitiate; she died in 1867.

houses, a Catholic priest

and public meandering

The sisters of the convent

with rosary beads in hand

offered daily novenas to

novice was the third and

moon rising over a church

on the beautiful retreat

Blessed Berchmans on her

final miracle needed for his

steeple. There’s a really vivid

behalf. Some accounts say

canonization, and 1888, the

shot of a storekeeper behind

that she silently prayed: “I

young Flemish seminarian

her counter amid a myriad of

might do. There are some

ask through the interces-

became known as St. John

liquor bottles and sundries

places on earth that inhale

sion of Blessed Berchmans a

Berchmans. In 2006, when St.

while overhead looms the

and exhale what can be

little relief and health.” She

John Berchmans School was

larger-than-life depiction of

called “the Spirit,” and Grand

placed an image of him on

opened in Grand Coteau, it

a loaf of Holsum bread in its

Coteau is one of them.

her tongue and told him that

became the only shrine in

signature red wrap.

if he could work miracles,

the United States built on the

American first – and in

she needed one, and if he

exact location of a miracle.

this case, only – you must

did not help her, she would

If you would like to take

not believe in him. She said

a photographic odyssey of

Heart Academy in the world. According to writer Patrice

grounds is not looked upon as something the Pharisees

To describe the second

first know about St. John 74 | Louisiana Life May/June 2013

The healing of the young

leading a yoga session, the

Grand Coteau by John Slaughter, published by University of Louisiana – Lafayette Press

around louisiana

baton rouge/ plantation country Belle, a streamlined

first aid to the passenger

passenger train that was

train victims and then

part of the Kansas City

their own men. Rescue

Southern Railroad line.

workers had to hack their

Kenneth Mounger, who

way through the swamp to

ran the now-abandoned

reach the disaster victims.

general store next to the

Farmers who lived along

train tracks, was awaiting

the track gathered at the

the usual 7:03 a.m.

wreck laden with mattresses,

appearance of the Southern

blankets and quilts to

Belle. According to Stu

offer the victims. Before

Quirky Places Train Wreck in Lettsworth

many times, I likewise found

Beitler of GenDisasters,

ambulances could arrive,

myself saying, “There was

a website that chronicles

work trains reached them,

a bad train wreck here in

such events, Mounger

and the Marines placed the

There is a green and shady,

the ‘50s,” without knowing

said the train was late that

injured on the trains until the

almost eerily quiet stretch

exactly what happened.

particular morning.

ambulances could make their

of Louisiana Highway 1

Perhaps it’s taken too

“This morning,” said

way through the swamp.

where a railroad crossing

many years for the just-

Mounger, “she appeared

stands adjacent to an

what-the-hell-happened-here

late, and when I saw this

in a car right after the

abandoned structure that

syndrome to set in, or maybe

troop train going by headed

impact. The burning oil

was once a general store.

I’ve gotten over savoring the

in the opposite direction, I

was about to engulf him

I find it funny in a peculiar

eeriness of the spot enough

turned to my wife and said,

when his Marine buddies

way that when someplace

to delve into some historical

‘What’s that train doing on

grabbed a large section

seems “eerily quiet,” it’s

detective work. Learning

the track when the Belle is

of dislocated rail from the

usually silently screaming

about what happened at

due?’... A few minutes later, I

track, bored a hole in the

with some sad story it wants

Lettsworth was a moment

heard a terrible crash.”

car and rescued him.

to tell. Beneath the trees,

whose time had come.

a bold black-lettered sign

At approximately 7 a.m.

For an unknown reason,

One Marine was trapped

Victims were dispersed to

the troop train had ignored

clinics in nearby Morganza,

reads “Lettsworth,” and

on an August morning in

a signal to move to a side

New Roads and Baton

if you’re travelling along

1951, a troop train bearing

rail to give the passenger

Rouge. Sixty-five people

Highway 1, you cannot help

288 soldiers bound for the

train right of way. On a

were reported injured, with

but cross these tracks. In my

Pacific Ocean and Korean

double bend 1 mile away

one missing and eight who

first remembrances of such

War and secretly launched

from Mounger’s store, the

didn’t survive.

journeys as a little girl, on

from Camp Lejeune in

two trains engaged in a

my way to visit relatives, my

North Carolina had made

shattering head-on collision,

nightmare to the tragedy

older brother always intoned

its way into the Bayou State,

both travelling at 50 mph.

was the story of 9-year-old

in a sepulchral voice, “There

traveling some 60 miles

was a bad train wreck

above Baton Rouge on a

engine and exploded into

Lettsworth. Aubrey was

here in the ‘50s,” without

single track. Traveling New

flames, hampering rescuers

galloping furiously on his

fail, even into adulthood.

Orleans-bound from the

trying to save the victims.

pony to see the wreck when

Driving past this spot alone

opposite direction on the

Marines who escaped the

a car hit them. Both the boy

as an adult, no matter how

same track was the Southern

wreck began administering

and his pony were killed.

Oil gushed from a diesel

Adding even more

Aubrey Stears Jr. of

www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 75

around louisiana

Greater New Orleans Profile Finding an Old “Friend”

milestone or guidepost in my

carefully tended herb garden

made me realize that writing

life, no matter the subject.

and the pathway lined with

stories about the treasures of

I used to be an avid but

The second example that

thyme that was always

ordinary days would always

somewhat selective clipper

impressed me came from the

crushed underfoot. He said

be worthwhile, enriching and

of either newspaper or

Times-Picayune’s food section,

that he could not smell thyme

a joy to read.

magazine articles on different

published each Thursday.

without vividly remembering

I lost my collection of

I use to relish Myriam

the cottage with the elderly

clippings many years ago

my exact feelings, moved

Guidroz’s pot-au-feu; I kept

sisters. But what made me

following a move, and

or enlightened me. Two

her vignette of visiting the

cherish this story most was

from time to time, I would

divergent examples of clipped

witch museum in Salem,

his description of their front

remember Soniat’s story

articles impressed me most

Mass., that also printed a

room, which was always

about the shuttered room and

subjects that expressed

back then. Growing

shuttered and cut off

his recipe for the casserole

up I feasted on Nancy

from the rest of the

but eventually forget about it.

Drew mysteries,

four-room cottage.

Just after last Christmas, by

and in my 20s, I

The few times he was

an odd chance at a bookstore,

found myself a little

allowed in, he “smelled

I noticed a cookbook, La

disturbed that this

God’s presence.” The

Bouche Creole, with his

love of mystery had

dark room was lit only

name on the binding and

transitioned into

by a ruby votive candle

discovered it was a collection

what became an

that filled the walls with

of all of his old newspaper

almost permanent

red designs and smelled

columns and recipes.

fixture for me –

of scented oil that he

Accompanying the delicious

murder mysteries. I

described as the “smell

recipes are Soniat’s charming

devoured the work of

of God.” It burned near

vignettes of growing up as

P.D. James, Agatha

a table with an upright

part of a Creole family in

Christie, Dorothy

crucifix, medals and

the French Quarter with

Sayers, Robert Parker,

holy pictures. At the

his parents, Mamete and

Martha Grimes and

time I was a lapsed

Papete, and grandparents

became convinced

Catholic, but nothing

Mamere and Papere. Along

that my desire to read

evoked the memories

with recipes for good old red

these stories showed

of my Catholic

beans and rice, duck-and-

some kind of deviate

upbringing as strongly

andouille gumbo, shrimp

trend. And then one

as his story of smelling

Creole and mirliton salad,

day I happened on

God in his aunts’

Soniat writes of taking the

an article in Vogue

room. The recipe that

old “Smoky Mary” train

simply called “To Bed With

recipe for clam chowder.

accompanied this story

down Elysian Fields to the

A Mystery” that analyzed

But it was Leon E. Soniat’s

was his aunts’ bell pepper

lakefront for a day of fishing

murder mystery-lovers as

“The Creole Kitchen” column

casserole, a dish I prepared

and crabbing, cleaning out

salt-of-the-earth types who

that provided me with a

many times. Soniat died in

the cistern with his father and

had a pronounced sense of

clipping I cherished most,

1981, a year, oddly enough,

shopping for fresh food at the

right and wrong and loved to

one that I would read and

in which I too faced death,

French Market.

see justice done. This article

read again. Soniat told the

survived and came back

made it into my collection.

story of visiting his three

with a strong resurgence

I mention this because

maiden aunts who lived in a

of faith that has not left me

looking back, my sampler of

cottage on St. Philip Street

since, undeserving wretch

Publishing Co., pelicanpub.

clippings represented some

as a boy. He wrote of their

that I am. Soniat’s column

com

76 | Louisiana Life May/June 2013

And these stories I don’t need to clip. La Bouche Creole, Pelican n

gulf coast travel

Ohr-O’Keefe Museum of Art

A black Labrador retriever runs along the water’s edge, gleefully nipping at the Gulf waves as they roll onto the sand. His owner, a few feet away, grasps a volleyball under his arm, evidence of the competition he and his buddies held on the warm sands an hour earlier. The Gulf of Mexico attracts millions of visitors to its shores every year, offering world-class casinos, concert events and a chance to have fun-in-thesun on the Gulf’s famous white-sand beaches. Few are aware, however, that the Mississippi Gulf Coast has another claim to fame: the birthplace of modern art and the home of two American masters, George E. Ohr and Walter Inglis Anderson. Ohr-O’Keefe Museum of Art 386 Beach Blvd. Biloxi, Miss. (228) 374-5547 georgeohr.org Admission: $10 for adults, $8 for seniors and $5 for students; kids 5 and younger are free. Hours: Tuesday-Saturday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Mississippi Gulf Coast A mecca for modern art By Elizabeth Heideman

On the shores of Biloxi Bay lies the

Ohr-O’Keefe Museum of Art, an impressive 4-acre campus whose buildings reflect the ultramodern and avant-garde spirit of the museum’s namesake. Designed by famed architect Frank O. Gehry, each of

78 | Louisiana Life May/June 2013

the museum buildings is

shop that is a must-see.

the gallery, and if you’re

donated to the Ohr-O’Keefe

constructed out of stainless-

With electric blue tyran-

owl-eyed enough, you may

Museum of Art in 2000 so

steel and glass elements,

nosaurus rexes fashioned

spot a tiny version of the

that it could be preserved as

giving visitors the sense that

out of recycled soda cans

Biloxi Lighthouse etched

a monument to the perse-

they are entering a giant

and origami roses bigger

into one of his creations.

verance and hardships of

sculpture in itself.

than your head, the museum

The museum, which was

African American families

store offers unique and

named Best New Museum

living under Jim Crow. In

Ohr proclaimed himself

carefully crafted fine art,

in 2010 by Southern Living

2005, the original building

Biloxi’s own “mad potter.”

jewelry and ceramics by

and has received the

and furnishings were

He was mad, maybe,

local artists.

TripAdvisor Certificate of

destroyed by Hurricane

Excellence, also features a

Katrina. Today, the Pleasant Reed Interpretive Center is a

A born showman, George

but also a genius. In his

Before you make your

lifetime, Ohr produced

way to the main gallery

unique visitor attraction that

more than 10,000 ceramics

exhibits, take a moment

provides a rare window into

replica of the original Reed

sculpted out of clay from

to view the wood turning

life for African American

home, featuring antique

the Tchoutacabouffa River

of Terry Tjader, who

families in the days of the

family artifacts such as a

that he dug himself. His

repurposed fallen trees

experimental approach

after Hurricane Katrina into

to sculpture and form

unique works of art. Many

has earned him the title,

of the wooden forms display

among some, of “father of

fossilized insects, which

the abstract-expressionist

become part of the natural

movement” in America

grain patterns that Tjader’s’

Highly criticized for his unusual forms, Ohr

designs so expertly enhance. Within the Star Gallery/

closed his studio in 1910,

Gallery of African American

prophesying that he would

Art is a selection of Ohr’s

one day be famous despite

finest work from across

his failures thus far. After

the Gulf Coast. Although

his death from throat

only temporary until the

cancer eight years later,

permanent home for the

his collections were packed

ceramics is completed in

away by his family, and

late 2013 as Phase II of

there they remained for 51

the museum’s building

years. In 1969, a New Jersey

efforts, the Star Gallery

antiques dealer named Jim

wonderfully showcases the

Carpenter discovered Ohr’s

artist’s oeuvre, from Ohr’s

revolutionary work and

functional utilitarian pieces

introduced it to the New

to his novelty items, which

York art scene, where his

he sold to tourists as his

experimental and daring

main source of revenue.

forms that were too revolu-

After the devastating fire

tionary for their own time

in Biloxi that destroyed the

were met with overarching

majority of his work (Ohr

praise. Today, Ohr’s work

referred to these lost works

is displayed in galleries

as his “burned babies”)

segregated South. Pleasant

woman’s 19th-century-era

worldwide, including the

in 1894, he began to see

Reed was born a slave

curling iron and Bible, as

Guggenheim.

how far he could push

in Hattiesburg, Miss., in

well as an educational video

the medium, producing

1854. When the Civil War

about Pleasant Reed and the

the world of modern art by

ceramics with extremely thin

ended, the entire Reed

Jim Crow South.

either riding an elevator

walls and intricately folded

family relocated to Biloxi,

or climbing one of the two

or pinched forms, marking

and Pleasant supported his

which is a Smithsonian

arching stairways flanking

his foray into what would

wife and six children by

Affiliate, was named jointly

the building to access the

later be termed abstract

working as a carpenter and

in honor of Ohr and Biloxi

lookout tower. The museum

expressionism. Quirky Ohr

jack-of-all-trades. The Reed

Mayor John O’Keefe and his

also has a café with free

quotations are inscribed

house, built by the hands

late wife, Annette, whose

WiFi and an exquisite gift

along the white walls of

of Pleasant himself, was

funding helped make the

Begin your journey into

Walter Anderson Museum

The Ohr-O’Keefe Museum,

www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 79

museum a reality.

level, he is known for living

Beginning in June,

primitively on Horn Island,

the museum will host a

Miss., enduring the heat of

collection of artist Frank

Mississippi summers for the

Janca’s oil paintings

last 18 years of his life in

that juxtapose “scenes

isolation. In his row boat,

of daily life in France ...

which is today suspended

with perceptions of the

above the vaulted glass

Mississippi Gulf Coast,”

museum entrance, along

according to the museum’s

with the bicycle he once

website.

rode as far as New York, he would venture deep into the

Walter Anderson Museum

wilds, never forgetting his

of Art

sketchbook and art supplies.

510 Washington Ave.

The museum, which

Ocean Springs, Miss.

opened in 1991, houses

(228) 872-3164

more than 1,000 objects

walterandersonmuseum.org

within Anderson’s extensive

Admission: $10 for adults;

and richly diverse oeuvre.

the street from the museum.

$8 for AAA, military and

The site was designed

The shop is a charming

seniors; and $5 for children

to be in harmony with

dedication to the artist and

5 to 15; kids 5 and younger

the surrounding natural

features a gallery offering

Nearby Attractions • Front Beach, Ocean Springs

are free.

landscape, and its interior

silk-screened art prints of

A public beach that is

Hours: Monday-Saturday,

is paneled with warm

Anderson’s work.

perfect for sunbathing

9:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. and

Southern yellow pine and

Sunday, 12:30 p.m. to 4:30

includes a main gallery

p.m.

Front Beach, Ocean Springs

front porch.

and shallow enough for swimming and other aquatic

space with two additional

Lodging The Inn at Ocean Springs

galleries that feature the

The Inn at Ocean Springs

fishing piers, also popular

permanent collections of

is rated “Wonderful!” by

for crabbing.

the Ohr-O’Keefe Museum

Anderson’s work as well as

TripAdvisor and is only a

and across the Biloxi Bay,

rotating exhibits of other

half-block from the Walter

• World-Class Casinos

continue your journey into

artists, usually from the Gulf

Anderson Museum of Art

From Beau Rivage to the

Mississippi’s modern art by

Coast region.

and a short car ride from

Hard Rock Hotel & Casino,

the Ohr-O’Keefe Museum of

take advantage of your many

Just 3 miles away from

visiting the Walter Anderson

Plan to spend a few hours

sports. It features two public

Museum of Art. The museum

exploring the collection of

Art. The only boutique bed-

options in lodging, gaming,

showcases the collections

colorful scenes of Southern

and-breakfast in downtown

dining and relaxing.

of Ocean Springs artist

life, and don’t miss the

Ocean Springs, the inn

and naturalist Walter Inglis

documentary screening that

offers exquisite lodgings

• Mary C. O’Keefe Cultural Center

Anderson, whose vivid

chronicles Anderson’s life

featuring antique furniture

Reserve your seat while it

paintings and ceramics

and career.

and luxury amenities, as

lasts at the Mary C. O’Keefe

well as a guaranteed Deep

Cultural Center, which

nature scenes and people.

artwork situated within the

South feel. The inn allows

offers a wide range of fun

His style is a combination of

Ocean Springs community

small pets for an additional

cooking classes, including a

colorful, boldly done folk art

itself, walk over to the Ocean

$25 cleaning fee, and the

“One Pot Wonders” series

with the modern sensibility

Springs Community Center,

entire Ocean Springs area is

taught by Carrie McCully of

of Picasso.

adjacent to the museum,

known for being largely pet-

Food Network fame. Guests,

to view Anderson’s largest

friendly. A vacation cottage

of course, get to enjoy the

Anderson was born an

murals, which are listed

called Bradford House

culinary creations that are

artist, drawing and studying

on the National Register of

is also available to rent.

prepared in the class, which

fine art and nature from

Historic Places.

Sleeping a total of four, the

could be anything from pork

cottage boasts a king-size

fried rice to ropa vieja. Visit

bring to life Mississippi

An American master,

a young age. Dedicated

To see Anderson’s

Realizations, a small

to connecting with nature

private shop run by

suite with luxurious bedding,

themaryc.org for a full menu

on a close and personal

Anderson’s family, is down

a flat-screen TV and a large

of classes.

80 | Louisiana Life May/June 2013

www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 81

lifetimes

Louisiana Corn Festival in Bunkie

a guide to events around the state may/june Compiled by Judi Russell

NORTHERN LOUISIANA May 1. Chow Down for Chimp Haven. Participating restaurants, Shreveport & Bossier City. (318) 925-9575.

(337) 475-5635.

(337) 433-2287.

May 3. Dalton Hilliard Celebrity Golf Tournament. Atchafalaya Golf Course at

May 11. The Courier Presents 5K Run for Excellence and Cajun Food Fest. Houma.

Idlewild, Patterson. (985) 395-4653.

(985) 868-5881.

May 3, 10, 17, 24, 13. Rhythms on the River. Front Street, Morgan City.

May 16-18. Cruisin Cajun Country Cruise In. Ramada Conference Center, New Iberia.

Bossier City. (318) 461-0625.

(985) 348-9291.

(337) 367-1631.

May 4-9. Barksdale Air Show. Barksdale

May 3-4. Relay for Life of Iberia Parish.

May 16-18. Starks Mayhaw Festival.

Air Force Base, Bossier City. (318) 456-3066.

1301 E. Admiral Doyle Drive, New Iberia. (337) 519-1978.

Highway 109 & 12, Starks. (337) 436-9588.

May 6-11. Blanchard Poke Salad Festival.

May 3-4. Mayfest. Downtown Leesville

May 18. Relay for Life – East St. Mary Parish. Municipal Auditorium, Morgan City.

Various locations, Blanchard. pokesaladfestival.com

Historic District, Leesville. (337) 238-0783.

(985) 300-4212.

May 18. Annual Trails & Trellises Garden Tour & Seminars. 404 Summit, Minden.

May 3-5. Breaux Bridge Crawfish Festival. Parc Hardy, Breaux Bridge. (337) 332-6655.

May 17, 24, 31. Downtown at Sundown Concert Series. Ryan Street, Lake Charles.

May 1, 7 & 9. Guys & Dolls. Strauss Theatre Center, Monroe. (318) 323-6681.

May 4. 20th Annual Pink Party. Shreveport Convention Center. (318) 200-0126.

May 4. Cinco de Mayo. Festival Plaza,

(318) 371-2586.

May 4. State Mixed Doubles Horseshoe Pitching Tournament. Kemper Williams

May 23-26. Mudbug Madness Festival.

Park, Patterson. (985) 385-3858.

Festival Plaza, Bossier City. (318) 222-7403.

May 4. Best Blues, Beans, Jazz & Peas Contestival. 102 Main St., New Iberia.

June 1. Minden Charity Classic Golf Tournament. 483 Benson Road, Minden. (318) 377-0395.

(337) 491-9159.

May 24-25. Creole Zydeco & Okra Festival. Adam Carlson Park, St. Martinville. (337) 394-2233.

(337) 560-5595.

May 23-June 2. Cajun Heartland State Fair. Cajundome, Lafayette. (337) 265-2100.

June 1. Sunflower Trail & Festival.

May 4. Herbs & Garden Festival. Marie

May 27. Memorial Day Avenue of Flags.

Street, Sunset. (337) 662-3542.

Highway 2049 North from Shreveport to Gilliam. (318) 378-4345.

May 4. TARC Garden & Market Festival.

Orange Grove-Graceland Cemetery, Lake Charles. (337) 436-9588.

June 1. Cross Lake Flotilla. American Legion Hall, Shreveport. (318) 635-8186.

June 14-16. Let the Good Times Roll Festival. Festival Plaza, Shreveport.

1 McCord Road, Houma. (985) 876-4455.

May 4. Annual McNeese Jazz Festival. Bulber Auditorium, McNeese State University, Lake Charles. (337) 475-5123.

June 1. Delcambre Seafood & Farmers Market. Delcambre Festival Grounds, Delcambre. (337) 367-0834.

June 1-3. 30th Church Point Buggy Festival. City Park, Church Point.

(318) 470-3890.

May 5. Terrebonne Livestock & Agricultural Association Horse Show. 121

CAJUN

Moffett Road, Houma. (985) 232-5141.

June 1. Daylily Festival and Garden Show.

May 9-10. Dirty Dozen Brass Band.

May 1-12. Contraband Days – Louisiana Pirate Festival. Lake Charles Civic Center.

Acadiana Center for the Arts, Lafayette. (337) 233-7060.

Magdalen Square, Abbeville. (337) 898-4110.

(337) 436-9588.

May 11. Fourth Wheelin’ N Peelin’ Car Show and Crawfish Cookoff. Gossen

May 2-5. Firemen’s Fair & Parade. Tiger Drive, Thibodaux. (985) 446-3247.

Memorial Park, Rayne. (337) 334-2332.

May 2 & 9. Rhythms on The River. River

May 11. Q-ing on the Bayou Boat Poker Run. Delcambre Boat Docks, Delcambre.

Ranch, Lafayette. (337) 216-0249.

May 3. McNeese Banners Cultural Series presents Lynn Trefzger. Rosa Hart Theatre, Lake Charles Civic Center, Lake Charles. 82 | Louisiana Life May/June 2013

(337) 658-2422.

May 11. Seussical the Musical. ACTS Theatre, Reid St., Lake Charles.

(337) 684-2739.

June 7-8. Ninth Annual Opelousas Spice & Music Festival. South City Park, Opelousas. (337) 948-5227.

June 8. LCCMC-UN Celebration de Cajun-Leur Culture. Northwest Community Center Pavilion, Eunice. (337) 457-5601.

June 8. Jerry Crochet Horseshoe Pitching Tournament. Kemper Williams Park, Patterson. (985) 385-3858.

June 14. Flag Day. Bouligny Park, New Iberia. (337) 367-1080.

June 24-28. Jane in June Day Camp.

(225) 389-5520.

June 14-16. Louisiana Corn Festival.

Kent Plantation House, Alexandria. (318) 487-5998.

May 12. Mother’s Day Luncheon. Oak Alley Plantation, Vacherie. (225) 265-2151.

Hays Auditorium, Corn Festival Fairgrounds, Bunkie. (318) 346-2575.

June 29. Louisiana Sports Hall of Fame Induction Banquet. Natchitoches Events

June 15. Juneteenth Folklife Celebration.

Center, Natchitoches. (318) 238-7500.

May 23. Jambalaya Fest. Gonzales Civic Center, Gonzales. (225) 675-6550.

Farmer’s Market, 828 E. Landry St., Opelousas. (337) 945-5064.

BATON ROUGE/PLANTATION

June 15. Juneteenth 2013-150th Anniversary. Lake Charles Civic Center,

May through June 9. Heroes: Photographs by Steve Shapiro. West Baton Rouge

Lake Charles. (337) 491-9955.

June 15. Bayou Vermilion District’s Vermilionville Seed to Skillet, “Veggies.” Lafayette. (337) 233-4077.

June 17-Aug. 15. EatLafayette. Various restaurants, Lafayette. (337) 232-3737.

June 22. Clifton Chenier Celebration. 2116 Ferdinand Crochet Road, New Iberia. (337) 339-5903.

June 17. Father’s Day Event. U.S.S. Orleck Naval Museum, Lake Charles. (337) 214-7447.

June 21-22. Don Gay Championship Bull Riding. Burton Coliseum, Lake Charles. (254) 592-3662.

June 24-25. Louisiana Festival de la Viande Boucanee (Smoked Meat Festival). Ville Platte. (337) 363-1416.

CENTRAL May 4. A Heroic Finale by the Rapides Symphony Orchestra. 1202 Third St., Alexandria. (318) 442-9709.

May 4. Bug Day. 3601 Bayou Rapides Road, Alexandria. (318) 487-9709.

May 4-5. Mayfest. Leesville Historic District, Leesville. (337) 238-0783.

May 3-31. A Sculptural State of Mind. Gallery One Ellleven, 111 Third St., Leesville. (337) 238-0783.

May 9-12. Cochon de Lait Festival. Cochon de Lait Civic Center, Mansura. (318) 964-2887.

May 25, June 29. Music & Movies on the Lawn. Baton Rouge Gallery, Baton Rouge. (225) 383-1470.

May 25. Second Annual Audubon Colonial Militia Muster & Market Faire. Audubon

Museum, 845 N. Jefferson Ave., Port Allen. (225) 336-2422.

State Historical Site, St. Francisville. (888) 677-2838.

May 1. 2013 Disability Rights Rally.

May 25-26. Red, White & Denham.

Louisiana State Capitol, Baton Rouge. (225) 342-8819.

May 3. Garden Tour Fridays. Rosedown State Historic Site, St. Francisville. (888) 376-1867. May 3-4. Tickfaw 200 Power Boat Poker Run. 31999 O’Neal Drive, Springfield. (225) 294-3876.

May 3-5. Little Red Church Food & Fun Festival. St. Charles Borromeo Catholic Church, Destrehan. (985) 764-6383.

May 5, 19. LSU Hilltop Arboretum 2013 Spring Garden Tours. Baton Rouge. (225) 767-6926.

May 5, 7-12, 14-19, 21-26, 28, June 2, 4-9, 11-16, 18-23, 25-30. The Little Prince. Louisiana Art & Science Museum,

Antique Village, North Range Avenue, Denham Springs. denhamspringsantiquedistrict.net.

May 27. U.S.S. Kidd’s Memorial Day Observance. 305 N. River Road, Baton Rouge. (225) 342-1942.

June 7-9. Uplifting the Coast Festival. Baton Rouge Fairgrounds, Baton Rouge. (225) 268-4254.

June 7-9. The Day the War Stopped. Grace Episcopal Church, St. Francisville. (225) 635-4224.

June 7-9. Treasures of Point Coupee Art Exhibit. JPMac Auditorium, New Roads. (225) 638-6049.

June 9. In the Footsteps of Audubon.

Baton Rouge. (225) 344-5272.

Audubon State Historical Site, St. Francisville. (888) 677-2838.

May 10. Hot Air, Cool Nites at the Mid City Art Hop. Mid City Merchants, Baton

June 9. 2013 Springfield Fireman’s Poker Run. 32280 Terry St., Springfield.

Rouge. midcitymerchants.org.

(225) 294-5745.

May 11. Baton Rouge Greek Festival.

June 17. Toddstock Birthday Celebration.

Baton Rouge Town Square, Baton Rouge. (225) 767-7163.

May 12. Sunday in the Park. North Boulevard Town Square, Baton Rouge.

Nottoway Plantation, White Castle. (225) 545-2730.

June 28. The Great Race. Belle of Baton Rouge, Baton Rouge. (423) 648-8542.

Daylily Festival and Garden Show in Abbeville

May 11. Louisiana Dragon Boat Races. 933 Second St., Alexandria. (318) 443-3458.

May 17-19. Tunica-Biloxi Pow Wow. 711 Paragon Place, Marksville. (318) 253-1946.

May 17-19. Fisher Sawmill Days. Village of Fisher Town Square, Fisher. (318) 256-5047.

May 25. Fleur de Lis Memorial Day Weekend Craft Show. Natchitoches Events Center, Natchitoches. (318) 238-7500.

May 30-June 1. Cookin’ on the Cane. 781 Front St., Natchitoches. (800) 259-1714.

www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 83

June 30. Walker City Festival & Fireworks.

May 17-19. Mid-City Bayou Boogaloo.

June 6-8. Annual Swollfest Rodeo.

13750 Ball Park Drive, Walker. louisianatravel.com.

Intersection of Orleans and North Jefferson Davis Parkway, New Orleans. (504) 488-3065

Louisiana Highway 1, Grand Isle. (985) 787-3196.

GREATER NEW ORLEANS

May 18. Jazz’n the Vines with Pine Leaf Boys. Pontchartrain Vineyards, Bush.

(504) 558-6100.

(985) 892-9742.

June 8-9. French Market Tomato Festival.

May 21-25. New Orleans Food & Wine Experience. Events citywide, New Orleans.

1008 N. Peters St., New Orleans. (504) 522-2621.

(504) 529-5463.

May 24-26. Speckled Trout Fishing Rodeo.

June 14. City of Slidell KidsFest Children’s Art Festival. 2056 Second St., Slidell.

Highway 1, Grand Isle. (985) 787-2997.

(985) 646-4375.

June 1-2. New Orleans Oyster Festival.

June 15. Hook a Kid on Fishing Rodeo.

Woldenberg Park, New Orleans. (504) 835-6410.

Campo’s Marina, Shell Beach, St. Bernard. (504) 915-7666.

June 1-2. Back to the Beach Festival.

June 20-23. Festigals. Hotel Monteleone,

Williams Boulevard and Lake Pontchartrain, Kenner. (504) 836-7117.

New Orleans. (504) 524-1227.

May 3-5. 62nd Annual Tomato Festival. Our Lady of Prompt Succor School, Chalmette. (504) 271-2953.

May 4. Jazz’n the Vines with Linnzi Zaorski. Pontchartrain Vineyards, Bush. (985) 892-9742.

May 5. German May Festival. 301 Huey P. Long Ave., Gretna. (504) 363-1580.

May 10. French Masters presented by the Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra. 16333 Louisiana 1085, Covington. (504) 523-6530.

May 10-26. Neil Simon’s Chapter Two. Playmakers Theatre, Covington. (985) 893-1671.

May 11. Second Annual Crawfish Mambo. University of New Orleans, New Orleans. (504) 280-2586.

May 16-19. Plaquemines Parish Heritage & Seafood Festival. 1292 Barriere Road, Belle Chasse. (504) 394-6328.

May 16. Art & Wine Walk. 409 Aycock St., Arabi. (504) 355-4442.

84 | Louisiana Life May/June 2013

June 8-9. Louisiana Cajun & Zydeco Festival. Old U.S. Mint, New Orleans.

ATTENTION FESTIVAL-PLANNERS & CARNIVAL PARADE-PLANNERS HELP US PROMOTE YOUR EVENT! n

Go online to provide information for our calendar section and Web page.

Go to MyNewOrleans.com/Louisiana-Life/Submit-an-Event to let us know about festivals, shows or special events coming up in your areas!

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Remember, the sooner we get the information, the better able we are to help you.

great louisiana quiz

High Water 1 Pictured here is the

Mississippi River at Audubon Park in New Orleans when the river last got so high that floodgates had to be opened. What year was that? A. 2011 B. 2009 C. 2007 D. 2005 2 What major spillways control the river’s height around New Orleans? A. Bonnet Carre and Morganza B. Old River and Atchafalaya C. Huey P. Long and Krotz Springs D. Red River and Ouachita 3 Randy Newman’s song “Louisiana” was about this traumatic event: A. Hurricane Betsy B. The Great Flood of 1980 C. The Great Flood of 1927 86 | Louisiana Life May/June 2013

D. Hurricane Katrina 4 The Atchafalaya River flows south toward this town: A. Houma B. Morgan City C. Ville Platte D. Bordelonville 5 Your friend is riding a raft down the Mississippi River and happens to drop his iPad into the water. He dives in to try to get it. Unfortunately he dropped it at the deepest spot in the entire river where the depth is 200 feet. Where is that spot? A. Alongside Vidalia B. Near Algiers Point in New Orleans C. Beneath the Interstate 10 bridge in Baton Rouge D. Near Lake Providence 6 Because he is afraid of

submarines, your friend decides to get out of the water and stay on the raft until the last river town. He hopes that he can scoop up the iPad when it floats by. What is the river’s southernmost town? A. Belle Chasse B. Buras C. Pilottown D. Pointe à la Hache 7 At what town is the

Atchafalaya River formed from the confluence of the Red and Mississippi rivers? A. Monroe B. Simmesport C. Ferriday D. Venice 8 Author John Barry wrote a best-selling book about the event described in Question No. 3. What is the book’s title?

A. High Waters B. Rising Tide C. Over the Levee D. Gone With the Winds 9 Those people in the picture are looking at the high water from the area of land between the levee and the waterline. What is that known as? A. The shore protector B. The embankment C. The batture D. The river walk 10 Whenever the Mississippi River is written about, this person is always mentioned – except in this quiz. Who is that person? A. Tennessee Williams B. William Faulkner C. Truman Capote D. If we said it, then we would be mentioning him.

Answer this BONUS QUESTION and be eligible to win an overnight stay for two at the luxurious PARAGON CASINO RESORT: What parishes are divided by the Mississippi River, and what is the parish seat of each? Send in your answer on a postcard addressed to: Louisiana Life Bonus Question 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123 Metairie, LA 70005 Two winners will be drawn from among the correct answers. Each will receive an overnight stay for two at the recently expanded and remodeled Paragon Casino Resort in Marksville. Winners’ names will be announced in the September/October 2013 issue. For our January/february issue, the question was: From north to south, name the towns where bridges cross the Atchafalaya River. The correct answer was: Some of you were smart enough to include railroad bridges and old bridges that are no longer in use – but that are nevertheless bridges. The question also asked for the listing to be north to south. Included in the answer should have been: Simmesport (the Louisiana 1 bridge as well as the old one), Krotz Springs (old and new), the Long-Allen bridge on Louisiana 182, the Union Pacific lift bridge and the U.S. 90 bridge between Berwick and Morgan City. Winners were: Henrietta Phillips, Pineville Charles J. Prest, Shreveport ANSWERS TO THE QUESTIONS: 1.A 2.A 3.C 4.B 5.B 6.C 7.B 8.B 9.C 10.D SCORING Score 10 points for each correct answer: 0-20 Consult your nearest library. 30-60 Begin by buying a good road map. 70-90 You should run for office. 100 You’re a candidate for a Ph.D. in Louisianaology. n www.louisianalife.com Louisiana Life | 87

a louisiana life

Kermit Poling Shreveport maestro keeps the music coming. By Megan Hill

Kermit Poling is a man of many notes – music notes.

music on the piano,” he

honors the 150th anniversary

says. “I guess I was blessed

of the start of the Civil War

Good Bugs. He’s also transformed

with a creative urge. But

and premiered in 2011.

Red River Radio, where he’s

first moved to Louisiana in

for a long time I didn’t take

Heavy research and period

been the general manager

1985 as a concert master of

my composition skills that

texts helped Poling frame the

for the past six years. “We’ve

the Shreveport Symphony

seriously.”

piece. “In a lot of ways it’s

replaced all of the trans-

one of my favorite works,”

mitters, put in beautiful

he says.

new studios and all new

The Cleveland-born Poling

Orchestra, a position he held

The band and orchestra

for 27 years before becoming

teacher at Poling’s high

its conductor. He is now

school noticed his talents

music director of the South

and encouraged him to write

for silent films such as

a lot of tireless fundraising,

Arkansas Symphony and

for larger ensembles. This

2003’s The Silent Treatment

he says. “It’s exciting from

the Shreveport Metropolitan

encouragement would prove

and a re-edited version of

a standpoint that it hadn’t

Ballet and general manager

pivotal in Poling’s career

the original Tarzan of the

been done before.”

of Red River Radio. If that

trajectory.

Apes, which was shot in the

weren’t enough, Poling

Snow White, Poling’s

Poling has written scores

technology,” which involved

As maestro, Poling

Atchafalaya River Basin in

has had the privilege of

performs around the world

first ballet, premiered at

1917. He also contributed the

conducting orchestras

as a violinist and conductor,

the Shreveport Symphony

score to the documentary

performing his own

and he’s a busy composer.

Orchestra in 2003. His other

Tarzan: Lord of the Louisiana

works. “I’ve been fortunate

He’s also in a string quartet.

ballets include The Wizard

Jungle, produced for the

to conduct most of my

of Oz, Phantom of the Opera

100-year anniversary of the

orchestra premiers,” he says.

enough. Poling started

and Aladdin. The Oklahoma

Tarzan character in 2012.

But he does admit that after

playing the piano at age 5

City Ballet commissioned

and picked up the violin at 6

him to write Beauty and

ments include scoring the

after he saw a demonstration

the Beast, which they will

plays The Glass Menagerie,

“The premier is the most

of string instruments at his

premier in 2014.

Memoirs, Elektra and many

nerve-racking part for me,”

more. In 1998, Emmy

he says. But there’s a deep

It all started out innocently

school. “My parents didn’t

Poling’s list of works and

Poling’s other accomplish-

all these years, he still gets a little nervous.

find out about it until after

accomplishments is long,

Award-winning artist

satisfaction when the band

they got the bill,” he says.

but he has a few favorites.

William Joyce chose Poling

strikes up and he settles in.

He’s particularly proud of his

to compose the soundtrack

music at an early age. “As

work No Sound of Trumpet

to his stage production of

says, “like having musicians

a kid I always used to write

nor Roll of Drum, which

The Leaf Men and the Brave

play your work.”

Poling also started writing

88 | Louisiana Life May/June 2013

“There’s nothing,” Poling n