The sewtionary an a to z guide to 101

Page 140

1 Once you’ve decided where to add the facing, fold out any darts or pleats from the pattern piece that will affect the facing area. Then lay the pattern piece on scrap paper and trace around the outer edges. This is the start of your new pattern piece.

2 Measure out from the opening about 2" (5.1cm) all along the edge, and draw in the facing line parallel to the opening edge. Depending on where the facing is located, you may want a narrower facing or a deeper one. Remember, you can always cut off the facing if it seems too deep. Mark the grain line to match the grain of your original pattern piece, and transfer any notches from the original pattern piece so it’s easy to sew the facing to the opening. If the piece was cut on the fold, mark the cut on the fold side. Before cutting out the new pattern piece, use a ruler to redraw the straight lines.

Tips + Notes Facings need to be deep enough to stay hidden, but not too deep to be bulky. Trimming and clipping facings (page 221) is important to reduce bulk and ensure curved necklines and armholes can turn all the way right side out and maintain their curves. If your garment has an underlining, catchstitch (page 58) your facings to the underlining to keep them in place. See page 226 for more on underlining. Y ou may want to stabilize a faced opening with stay tape (page 204), if it’s an area that may stretch out over time.


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