Reef Hobbyist Magazine Q1 2021

FIRST QUARTER 2021 I VOLUME 15

SWEETY REEF LAYING THE FOUNDATION OF A HARMONIOUS REEF

IS YOUR REEF SUFFOCATING?

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FEATURES 6

THE TESSERACT Dr. Robert D. Schwartz is a 51-year-old podiatrist with 42 years of aquarium experience. Does a beautiful reef that’s both easy to maintain and stable represent an imaginary dimension of our hobby? Bob’s tank answers this question definitively.

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LAYING THE FOUNDATION OF A HARMONIOUS REEF Keith Moyle, a UK hobbyist with over 45 years of experience, is the owner of aquatic consultancy Kahuna Reef Motivation. Achieving a harmonious reef means balancing many livestock and equipment choices.

Keith walks you through this process here.

ON THE COVER SWEETY REEF

Amanda Bossard, also known as "sweety_reef" on Instagram, is a reefer from Switzerland. Amanda’s attention to disciplined husbandry and consideration for the needs of the animals really show in this reef setup. Learn her secrets in this illuminating tank write-up.

Cover image by Patrick Bossard Instagram: fresh_p_media

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IS YOUR REEF SUFFOCATING? Jim Adelberg is a veteran reefer and the executive editor of RHM. Dissolved-oxygen levels impact the health of every living thing in your reef tank. Read this article and expand the scope of your thinking on this critical parameter.

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LAVAREDA REEF Andre Lavareda has been reefing in Caldas Da Rainha, Portugal, for 12 years and is a fan of minimalist tanks. Andre’s tank is a study in minimalism in every sense, from the aquascape to equipment selection.

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REEFERS DIVE: COSTA RICA Sabine Penisson is a French photographer, RHM's photography advisor, and an author focused on coral reef fauna. In this Reefers Dive installment, Sabine invites you to join her on a magical tour of Costa Rica!

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WHAT IS THE PERFECT CORAL? Jared Burbank is the owner of MyReefToYours and has been reefing since the mid '90s.

Are Blastomussa species the perfect corals? Jared thinks so, and you might agree after reading this spotlight.

FIRST QUARTER 2021 | Volume 15 © 2021 Reef Hobbyist Magazine. All rights reserved.

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BOB SCHWARTZ

The Tesseract

I

am 51 years old and began keeping aquariums when I was 9.

Bettas and goldfish were very exciting at that age. As my interest grew, so did the number and size of my aquariums.

I started keeping saltwater aquariums at age 19. My systems ranged from 10 to 55 gallons. I kept aquariums with aggressive moray eels, lionfish, puffers, triggerfish, and groupers for many years.

My previous reef was a standard 90-gallon aquarium. I learned many lessons from that system, which I carried over to the current tank, but the biggest lesson was to have an emergency plan.

When Hurricane Sandy hit Connecticut, it hit very hard, and we lost power for 5 days. Luckily, I was able to save the reef, but it was a challenge.

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This current 150-gallon cube aquarium is affectionately known as the Tesseract. Many of the corals and anemones in this display have been with me for almost 13 years. This includes the large Bubble Coral, carpet anemone, Blastomussa sp., and green Pavona sp.

This tank was purchased used, and I am its third owner. The previous owner made the stand and 40-gallon sump. It has Starphire glass on the front panel for clear viewing. I placed it in a long room attached to my kitchen so we can see it from the dinner table. I drilled through the floor to run hoses to my water-change and topoff reservoirs, which are in the basement directly below the tank.

Lighting was a big consideration when planning this system. I had experimented with metal halides, LEDs, and T5s on my previous

Neon green Goniastrea sp.

aquariums. They all have their pros and cons. On this system, I chose two LED units: one in front and one in back. My front fixture is a Galaxyhydro, and the rear one is a MarsAqua.

Both are 165-watt units. The actinics run from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m., while the whites run from 10 a.m. to 12 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. Between these two fixtures is a 400-watt metal halide with a 20,000 K Ushio bulb. This runs from 12 p.m. to 5 p.m. I have found that metal halides are excellent for coral health and growth.

My protein skimmer is a Bubble Magus. Choosing a high-quality skimmer was very important because I have a unique method of nitrate control. I use a product called AZ-NO3. It is a liquid that is added daily through an automatic doser. AZ-NO3 combines with nitrates to make a bigger particle that can be removed through protein skimming. I have used this method for many years with great success. I also use a bio-bead reactor, and this helps with the nitrates as well. In my sump is a simple mesh basket filled with chaeto macroalgae.

I aim to keep my nitrate level around 5 ppm. I find that my corals have their best color when the nitrate level is between 5 and 10 ppm. A mesh bag with GFO (granular ferric oxide) is also routinely used in my sump. This keeps my phosphates low and undesirable algae to a minimum.

Water flow is a key consideration in this tank. My LPS (large-polyp stony) corals do not like strong water flow, but my SPS (small-polyp stony) corals require it. My return pump Swallowtail Angelfish

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Upper section of the reef, where light-loving SPS were placed

output is 700 gph (gallons per hour), and the pump on my chiller is 350 gph. The large powerhead in the back is capable of huge flow (3,600 gph), but I only run it at 33 percent. The placement of this powerhead is important. It is in the rear of the tank on the right, on the bottom third of the tank pointing up and to the left. I have it on a pulsed setting. The water flows up and over my large Pocillopora and Stylophora corals and toward my other SPS and gorgonians in the middle and left of the tank. These large corals are so close to the surface that the powerhead creates a wave going over them. The Bubble Coral, Frogspawn, and Hammer Corals get very little flow, which they seem to appreciate. I had to add another 800 gph powerhead, pointing from right to left. I have many plating corals, and without this added flow, detritus accumulates on them.

is big and territorial. She will not allow other fish near her anemone and will even bite my hand if it comes too close. The Melanarus Wrasse was added to deal with Montipora-eating nudibranchs.

They were a big problem, and no chemical treatments worked for me. The Melanarus Wrasse handled the problem completely.

The Yellow Tang is a favorite, and I have had one in every tank since I began saltwater fishkeeping. My Blue Hippo Tang is named Cathy.

My daughter picked her out and named her 8 years ago. The most difficult fish for me to acquire was my Swallowtail Angelfish. I wanted an angelfish but not one that would pick at my corals and clams. The Swallowtail is beautiful and a model citizen so far. I feed these fish slow-sinking pellet food once per day.

Stocking my corals and invertebrates was a whole other ballgame. I am like a kid in a candy store when it comes to corals. My favorites are plating-style corals.

So plating Montipora spp. were a necessity. I have many plating Leptoseris spp., Pachyseris spp., Turbinaria spp., and chalice corals. Another unique resident is my blue plating layercake sponge. It is photosynthetic and hardy, and I have had it for many years. On the right side of the tank is my Euphyllia garden. I currently have six different types and frag them as needed. I have many different zoanthids, which I placed between other coral colonies. I feed the corals once or twice weekly with

For temperature control, I have a Bayite controller for my three 300-watt heaters. In my experience, the temperature controller is a necessity. I have had heaters fail in the “on” position in the past.

For chilling, I have a 1/10 hp EcoPlus unit. This is underpowered for a tank of this size, but my house has central air conditioning. I generally keep my tank around 77° F in the winter and 79° F in the summer. I also have a small clip-on fan that turns on with the metal halide fixture.

I have a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) on every aquarium I own. I would also recommend that all pumps, powerheads, and power filters are kept clean and unclogged. I experienced a fire from a clogged power filter many years ago.

My fish-stocking goal was to have just a few larger, impressive specimens. I only have five fish in this tank, and they get along wonderfully. The Clarkii Clown was important because I needed a fish that would host in my large carpet anemone. The Clarkii

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Euphyllia garden among various LPS and SPS corals

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Dozens of LPS and SPS coexist in this mixed reef.

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Various LPS, SPS, and a Bubble-tip Anemone

several different brands of coral food, Cyclopeeze, and baby brine shrimp. I add this directly to the tank and don’t target feed any of my corals.

I perform a water change of 30 gallons once a month. I use a twopart addition of Seachem Fusion 1 and 2 daily. This handles my alkalinity and calcium needs. My alkalinity is kept in the range of 7 to 8 dKH, which is close to natural seawater. When I attempted to raise it in the past, I hit 9 dKH, and the corals looked terrible. My calcium generally measures 380 to 440 ppm. I add 7 ml of iodine twice weekly. My iodine is routinely low due to the AZ-NO3 additions.

While the AZ-NO3 treatment removes nitrates well, it also removes iodine. I learned a great lesson in water quality management 2 years ago that I would like to share. Many corals in my tank were not looking great. A few had died, and I was not thrilled. I measured everything I could, and nothing seemed out of line. I decided to send out a sample of water for an ICP test, and it was the best thing I could have done. The most glaring issues were my sodium and chloride levels, which were very low. My refractometer was old, and I had not calibrated it...ever. I purchased calibration solution and was shocked at how far off it was. The measurement was below 30 ppt. I gradually increased my salinity to the current 35 ppt. Things improved greatly after that. I also found that my iodine was zero, so I began supplementing that as well.

The lessons I learned were to have test kits for everything possible and use them often, make sure your reagents are not expired, and calibrate equipment routinely. If things still are not thriving, send out a water sample for more extensive testing. It always amazed me that people would spend thousands on their setup and livestock and wouldn’t have test kits. It is the first thing I would recommend to any beginner, as even an experienced hobbyist can be confounded by water quality issues.

My goals these days are centered on stability and ease of maintenance. I have spent a great deal of time with my hands in this tank, working on coral placement and system care. It is nice to now sit back and enjoy the fruits of this labor.

I would like to end by thanking my amazing and tolerant family, my great friends, my local Connecticut Area Reef Society, and my local Connecticut fish stores. R Reef Hobbyist Magazine

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KEITH MOYLE Images by author except as noted

Laying the Foundation of a

HARMONIOUS REEF EQUIPMENT CHOICES If you’ve done your homework, you’ll have already made important livestock decisions in advance of designing and equipping your aquarium. What you intend to keep has a major impact on every aspect of your system design and equipment choices. For example, if you intend to keep fish or soft corals only, you will not have to invest in high-output lighting. Keeping hard corals such as LPS (large-polyp stony) corals won’t require lighting as powerful as SPS (small-polyp stony) corals. SPS corals also benefit from higher flow rates than either LPS or soft corals. These early choices can help you save money on unnecessary high-end equipment purchases.

However, if you intend to move from soft to hard corals—and especially to SPS corals—it’s more economical to purchase suitable equipment from the outset to avoid having to upgrade later.

STOCKING PLAN A stocking plan is a worthwhile exercise but only if you are disciplined enough to adhere to it. Though many people see the benefit of such a plan for fish, the same approach can be used

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for selecting corals and invertebrates. The plan should also list the order in which livestock is to be introduced. You will need to research your livestock in terms of size, species compatibility, levels of aggression, and whether fish are reef safe before you can prepare your plan.

REEF COMPATIBILITY Let’s start with “reef-safe” fish. This may be the deciding factor in choosing a fish-only aquarium if the fish you want to keep might have or may develop a taste for corals. This can be avoided by doing your homework first, not after you have purchased unsuitable corals or fish that may preclude the addition of other livestock.

There are many reef-safe fish in a wide variety of shapes, colors, and behavioral patterns. However, some of the most flamboyant and sought-after angelfish, such as the Emperor (Pomacanthus imperator) or Queen (Holacanthus ciliaris), are not usually reef safe. An exception is the only truly reef-safe angelfish genus, Genicanthus. The Genicanthus species include the delightful Bellus (G. bellus) and Watanabei (G. watanabei), which are reliably available at stores.

Emperor Angelfish are not considered reef safe. | Image by Bernard Dupont

A Flame Angelfish may or may not eat your most cherished coral. | Image by Andreas Marz

A fish being classified as reef safe should also apply to its association with various invertebrates. Do your research, as certain species such as puffers, triggers, and groupers may not eat corals but are likely to eat ornamental shrimp.

Another less-helpful classification often used in the trade is “reef safe with caution,” which describes fish that may be suitable to be kept with corals and invertebrates. Interestingly, many of the dwarf and pygmy angels of the Centropyge genus, such as the Flame (C. loricula) and Cherub (C. argi), are labeled this way. While many hobbyists keep both dwarf and pygmy angels in reef aquaria without issue, similar numbers find that isn’t the case. I suggest “with caution” means they will possibly eat some of your corals or invertebrates, and unless you can accept this, they are best avoided.

FISH SELECTION Irrespective of whether you keep fish only or a mixed reef, fish compatibility is of great importance if you want to have a happy reef. Constantly bickering fish or out-and-out Reef Hobbyist Magazine

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Plan ahead for fish that may require live copepods. | Image by Luc Viatour

bullying will result in you and the tank’s inhabitants becoming stressed. This can lead to weakened fish, possibly resulting in disease and, in severe cases, fatalities. It’s not only aggression that can induce stress; keeping a fish in an aquarium that is too small or not suitably aquascaped can also be stress factors. Examples of the results of this poor planning might include tangs that constantly swim up and down an undersized tank or sand-burrowing wrasses that have no refuge in bare-bottomed aquaria.

Certain fish species are more aggressive than others and some, such as the true predators, should preferably be kept in a dedicated system. Unless you have a larger aquarium (100 gallons or more), multiple fish from the same species should not be kept together unless you have a bonded pair. There are exceptions, as some fish, including anthias and firefish, generally fare better in a group or harem.

When selecting fish for your aquarium, consider their maximum size. Fish that start out small may become increasingly aggressive to their tankmates as they grow and feel crowded or if they have been in the aquarium for a long time.

It’s also worth noting that larger fish produce more waste, increasing the system’s bioload. This results in higher nutrient levels, which may become an issue.

Also consider the availability of suitable food sources, as fish like Mandarin Gobies, certain blennies, and pipefish generally require a sustainable source of copepods on which they thrive. A new system won’t have sustainable populations of copepods, and adding such fish should be delayed for around 6 months, during which time copepods should be added to seed the tank.

When it’s time to introduce fish into the aquarium, always add the more placid ones first, giving them time to settle into their new surroundings before adding more aggressive species. This should be reflected in your stocking plan. Failure to follow this process can lead to future aggression.

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Resist the temptation to substitute a fish on your list with one you haven’t researched, since ad-hoc and unplanned purchases rarely turn out well. If you are inclined to make impulse purchases, research and identify alternatives for each fish from the outset. I have found that fish with similar body shapes, colors, or patterns are more likely to show aggression toward one another. There’s nothing worse than having to resort to the difficult task of removing a fish from an aquascaped aquarium. If this happens, try attaching a mirror onto the outside glass of the aquarium for a few days to distract the aggressor as it turns its attention to its own reflection.

Failing that, a fish trap is the best option unless you are able and prepared to remove the rockwork and corals to facilitate capture.

PLANNING FOR CORALS Provided you have suitable lighting and water flow and maintain appropriate nutrient levels, successfully keeping a range of soft and hard corals, and even demanding SPS corals, is achievable.

Correct placement of corals is important, since the high flow and intense lighting of the upper reef, where SPS corals are found, is different from the lower reaches of a reef, where you will find LPS and soft corals.

Irrespective of the type, all corals need space to allow them to fully expand and still allow for additional growth. Another consideration is to leave enough space between aggressive corals so that even the corals’ longest sweeper tentacles can’t attack their neighbors.

In a reef aquarium, where a variety of corals are kept with a mixed community of fish, care must be taken to ensure the species kept are compatible. In my experience, coral-eating fish are more interested in certain types of coral than others. In particular, fish classified as reef safe with caution can be very specific in their taste for coral. I have found that LPS corals are most likely to be seen as a meal for many non- or semi-reef-safe fish, such as dwarf and pygmy angels.

While corals don’t add as much to the system’s bioload as fish do, they can be sensitive to the rapid changes in water chemistry characteristic of new tanks. Even though a tank may have been cycled, the water continues to undergo many chemical changes Corals like this Montipora sp. will require bright lighting. | Image by Philippe Bourjon

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LPS corals should be carefully placed to avoid coral warfare.

during the first months following the addition of fish. Personally, I wouldn’t even add soft corals until after the first month. LPS should be OK at 2 to 3 months, and SPS should be OK after 6 months, if water parameters are stable. Not only does this allow the water chemistry to reach a relative state of equilibrium but also gives you time to monitor parameters and establish a maintenance routine.

SOFT CORALS These popular, hardy coral species are often the first corals selected by inexperienced hobbyists. They are less demanding in terms of water quality and lighting requirements than either LPS or SPS, and they are relatively inexpensive.

Soft corals provide good movement and grow quickly, so they are ideal space fillers in a new aquarium. Perhaps their only downside is that they generally lack the vivid colors of hard corals, often being beige or occasionally yellow or green. Soft corals also release toxins into the water as part of their defense mechanism to prevent other corals from encroaching on their space (or if injured). I would always recommend the use of a good-quality activated carbon in any system housing both soft and hard corals, and if that mix includes SPS corals, carbon is essential.

demanding in terms of water parameters than soft corals. Flow requirements are generally higher than those of soft corals, and higher-intensity lighting can be beneficial. This is not an issue if you also want to keep soft corals, as soft corals will readily adapt to the higher light levels. Many LPS corals (such as Galaxea spp.) have extremely long stinging sweeper tentacles, which can extend surprisingly far at night and during feeding, inflicting damage on other corals.

SPS – Even more challenging than LPS, these corals also use the major elements to build their skeletons. Irrespective of genus, all SPS corals require stable parameters for success and are not really suited to a newly established aquarium. Once acclimated, many are fast growing and have high demands for alkalinity and calcium, which must be addressed to maintain good color and growth.

Automated dosing systems or calcium reactors are generally used to provide these elements.

As with all corals, SPS need space to grow, and frags that grow into colonies can soon overshadow any light-loving corals placed below them. This is especially the case with corals that grow in tabling or plating forms.

MIXED REEFS

HARD CORALS LPS – Hard corals use the alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium in the water to build their skeletons and are therefore a little more

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In a mixed reef, the placement of coral is of paramount concern to ensure that correct light and water-flow conditions are met. This usually means placing SPS in the top third of the aquascape and

In general terms, invertebrates can be added once a newly established aquarium has been cycled, as they have minimal impact on the aquarium’s bioload. It’s a good idea to add a basic cleanup crew to a new system so they can get to work on keeping the sandbed and rockwork clean. For other invertebrates, such as Sand Sifting Starfish, delay their addition for a few months to ensure there is an adequate food supply established in the sandbed.

FINAL THOUGHTS

Harlequin Shrimp are highly specialized feeders. | Image by Chad Ordelheide

LPS in the bottom third and often on the sandbed. Soft-coral placement is more flexible, as they generally adapt well to varying conditions, though the bottom reaches of the tank are most favorable. If placed too high, they will soon overshadow large areas of the aquarium.

INVERTEBRATES Most commonly available invertebrates can be kept with many reef fish, though there are exceptions. Ornamental shrimp are likely to be eaten by puffers, triggers, and some hawkfish, among others. Certain crustaceans (such as Hawkfish may prey on small shrimp. | Image by Rickard Zerpe the banded coral shrimp species) should only be kept singularly unless purchased as bonded pairs, though cleaner and Fire Shrimp do better in pairs or groups.

Harlequin Shrimp, often used to eradicate Asterina Starfish populations in the aquarium, will also eat other starfish, such as Sand Sifting Sea Stars. Hermit crabs, if not provided with larger shells to grow into, will often kill snails to take their shells. Serpent starfish, particularly the green variant, aptly named the green death star, are highly efficient predators that can and will kill fish in the aquarium.

The careful selection and well-planned addition of fish, corals, and invertebrates will help create a peaceful reef aquarium with minimal aggression. Do your research, create a plan, and adhere to it. Take your time; there is no need to rush into stocking your system, and it will be all the better for it. If in doubt about a prospective purchase, pass it by. Finally, no two systems are alike, and no two fish are the same. Just because one fish doesn’t eat corals or shrimp or show aggression toward other fish doesn’t guarantee that another of the same species will behave the same way. Remember, a harmonious reef will be less stressful for both you and its inhabitants and is infinitely more rewarding. R

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AMANDA BOSSARD

M

Sweety Reef

y enthusiasm for reef animals started at an early age, but I didn’t get into this hobby until a little over 3 years ago.

I started with a 5.3-gallon nano, which was misleadingly sold to me as a good system for beginners. After only 4 months, I purchased a new tank, which is my current display. Initially, I set up a reef that became overgrown with SPS (small-polyp stony) and LPS (large-polyp stony) corals. I eventually found out that I had an 8-inch bristle worm in my system, so I cleared out all the live rock and gave my fast-growing corals to the local fish store.

My philosophy for reefkeeping is to respect the animals. All of the living beings that are kept in my system did not choose to be placed there, so it is my duty to provide each species with a home that is as appropriate as possible. The way that they live, and whether or not they thrive, largely depend on me as the reefkeeper. It is a privilege for me to have these unique and beautiful animals in my care, and I see it as a gift.

This change was an opportunity for me to focus on more challenging corals. With the help of my local fish store, I built a new aquascape using Real Reef Rock. Over time, I grew out and traded a lot of corals with the store.

System Volume: ~91 gallons Display: Red Sea Reefer 350 Deluxe Dimensions: 47.2" × 19.68" × 20.8" Reverse Osmosis Tank Volume: ~16 gallons Lighting: (2) Orphek Atlantik V4 Gen 2 Pumps: (4) Jebao SOW-8 Skimmer: AquaBee Cove I-130 Chiller: Theiling Polar 500 UV: Aqua Medic Helix Max 2.0, 18 watts Filtration: ClariSea SK-3000

Now, after 3.5 years, I have a tank that looks exactly the way I envisioned, and all the animals in the reef have settled in well. The corals are deliberately arranged so that each coral inhabits its own unique little space in the rockwork. My goal now is to have a natural-looking aquarium that is as healthy as possible.

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SPECIFICATIONS

Equipment under the tank

Reactor: unbranded Return Pump: Tunze Aquascape: Real Reef Rock Salt: Red Sea Coral Pro MAINTENANCE The general maintenance on my system is done on Sundays. This is my maintenance routine: - Blow detritus off the aquascape - Change 10 percent of the water - Clean the skimmer and rear wall - Perform tests for salinity, carbonate hardness, calcium, magnesium, nitrate, phosphate, and silica Fauna Marin Balling Light supplies the system’s daily needs of carbonates, calcium, and magnesium through the dosing system.

In addition, several products from Korallen-Zucht are used, like ZEOvit rock, activated carbon, and various dosing agents.

Water testing is done with Salifert and Hanna tests. I alternate ICP testing with Triton, ATI, and Oceamo. A consistent value is more important to me than a perfect value.

Currently, I am feeding a lot of food due to the addition of Pseudanthias squamipinnis, which has caused the nutrient levels to become elevated.

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Goniopora garden

Ocellaris Clownfish with Bubble-tip Anemone

WATER PARAMETERS Salinity: 35 ppt Alkalinity: 7.1 dKH Calcium: 420 ppm

Magnesium: 1,245 ppm Phosphate: 0.07 ppm Nitrate: 8.0 ppm

FEEDING The fish are fed 1 to 2 times a day with the following: - frozen food - flake food - Artemia sp.

- Artemia sp. nauplii - Mysis sp.

- copepods - plankton - lettuce - nori algae

The corals are hand fed once a week with the following: - Fauna Marin LPS pellets - Fauna Marin Min S - Fauna Marin Coral Sprint

- frozen food - live food

I usually feed the corals at night when the fish are sleeping so that the LPS corals can eat in peace without fish competing for food.

I’ve had my Tubastraea spp. for over 2 years now, and they’ve gotten used to opening their polyps as soon as frozen food is added. When their polyps open in the afternoon, their glow is especially beautiful.

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Acropora millepora

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Stylophora pistillata and Montipora digitata

Scopas Tang

Randall’s Prawn Goby

Black Cap Jawfish with hermit crab

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- Pseudocheilinus hexataenia (Six-line Wrasse) - Halichoeres timorensis (Timor Wrasse) - Labroides dimidiatus (Cleaner Wrasse) - Gobiodon okinawae (Okinawa Goby) - Emblemaria pandionis (Sailfin Blenny) - Amblyeleotris randalli (Randall’s Prawn Goby) - Zebrasoma scopas (Scopas Tang) My little Scopas Tang is my favorite fish. He was one of the first fish that I purchased.

Unfortunately, I later realized that he was a bad purchase due to his eventual adult size. He is an absolute character and the boss of the aquarium, but a tank like mine has no future for a fish this large. In the spring of 2021, he will be relocated to a tank that’s nearly 1,000 gallons.

My two jawfish are also highlights. Unfortunately, they are not a couple, but they live close to each other. They are always outside of their caves with their entire upper bodies exposed, watching everything going on. When food is in the water column, they are not afraid to sneak under the Scopas Tang’s nose to snatch its food.

The sandbed in my aquarium is approximately 2 inches deep. The reef was specifically designed so that the jawfish have multiple caves that they can hide in; they just have to find them and dig them out. I love their constantly skeptical look.

Euphyllia baliensis and Euphyllia cristata

In the past 3.5 years, I have had a lot of setbacks. I battled cyanobacteria and dinoflagellates, and I often trusted people who ended up giving me detrimental advice. There are several times when I considered giving up on the hobby. Fortunately, I stuck with it and gained the valuable experience of failing, which has allowed me to become a better reefer.

FISH - (8) Pseudanthias squamipinnis (Lyretail Anthias) - (2) Amphiprion ocellaris (Ocellaris Clownfish) - (2) Opistognathus randalli (Black Cap Jawfish) - Oxycirrhites typus (Longnose Hawkfish)

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I’d like to thank my boyfriend and mother who looked after my aquarium when I traveled to Australia and Fiji for 3 months. At times, when I wanted to give up, my boyfriend always motivated me to keep going. I’d also like to thank my two favorite coral stores, Colorals in Balzers and Swissriff in Degersheim, who have always given me great support. Keep reefing! R

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Image by Yoshi Fujisawa

JIM ADELBERG

IS YOUR REEF

SUFFOCATING? I

find the topic of DO (dissolved oxygen) in aquariums to be both incredibly important and, sadly, underappreciated. It seems simple at first, but if you think about it, DO levels directly or indirectly impact every aspect of a reef’s health. Adding to that complexity is the fact that aquarium DO levels are highly dependent on a slew of other variables in system design, water chemistry, and husbandry practices. And the final complication is that DO levels vary greatly over the day as a natural function of a healthy reef, whether in the wild or in your living room.

Let’s review a few of the basics.

On a tropical shallow reef during the daytime, dissolved oxygen levels are often at or above saturation. Saturation level is represented by the equilibrium of dissolved gases in the water with atmospheric gases. Both photosynthesis and surface agitation can raise the water’s DO level above saturation. This is the very

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specific environment that most of our reef aquarium animals have adapted to over centuries of evolution. For those of us who have experienced the dynamics of a wild reef, it comes as no surprise that we struggle to approach natural DO levels in our home tanks.

But why are DO levels so important?

The first answer is that virtually everything in your tank respires and consumes oxygen—obviously the fish but also the inverts, the corals (at night), and the aerobic bacteria filtering your water. That’s (F) 35 ppt a lot of oxygen demand. This seems like a good time to point out 75.2° 6.87 mg/l that, as temperatures increase, so does the metabolism (and oxygen 78.8° 6.64 mg/l demand) of those fish, inverts, corals, and bacteria. Unfortunately, 82.4° 6.42 mg/l warmer water carries less DO at DO Saturation vs. Temperature

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calcium, magnesium, and alkalinity. But I think an awareness of DO can go a long way toward designing and maintaining a successful reef tank (and troubleshooting an unhealthy one).

DO SYSTEM DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS Most of the DO that is in your display comes from the gas exchange at the tank’s surface. There are a few considerations here. Surface area to volume ratio is the starting point, and we find that shallower tanks will naturally have higher DO levels.

Surface agitation will increase the gas exchange, but what you really want to do is bring water from the lower levels of the tank to the surface to be reoxygenated.

Wild reefs have very high dissolved oxygen levels that we should strive to replicate in our own reef systems. | Image by Albert Kok

saturation. The graph on page 30 shows the oxygen saturation level of saltwater at 35 ppt at three different temperatures.

As you plan your system, keep in mind that purely horizontal flow doesn’t bring as much oxygen to the lower sections of the tank. There are a few different ways to achieve

Fish grown in suboptimal DO levels exhibit inferior growth and weakened immune systems due to that persistent stress.1 And corals just won’t grow as well (decreased calcification rate) in suboptimal DO.2 Furthermore, your aerobic filtration won’t be as capable of quickly processing waste spikes (like if a fish dies behind the rockwork at night), and that could be a catastrophic situation.

Another good reason to be conscious about DO levels is very specific to the chemistry of reefkeeping. We are trying to maintain a high pH environment for the health of our corals (primarily). All that respiring we were discussing earlier produces CO2. CO2 decreases pH. Corals don’t calcify well in low pH. I recently read a study showing significantly lower densities of Porites coral skeletons at lowered pH levels.3 In fact, a lot of the biochemical enzymatic processes of our aquarium animals are optimized for fairly narrow windows of pH. It’s hard to reliably test for and control DO. I think that’s part of the reason it isn’t addressed as frequently as simpler parameters like

Gyre pumps can produce the desired vertical flow that will move water from the lower parts of the tank to the top. | Image by Maxspect

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This algae reactor can be employed to increase nighttime DO and pH levels. | Image by Tunze

a vertical mixing effect in a tank, but I think one of the easiest is to use the commercially available gyre pumps that have become popular.

Another way to encourage this kind of flow pattern would be to have flow pumps at opposite ends of a tank and set them on different wave speeds. The collision of these flows will drive water vertically up and down in the tank.

A third device I’ve used in the past to combat low DO is an eductor/ penductor. These devices are often used on return manifolds, and they entrain extra water, creating wide waves of flow. Your systemplanning around DO should also include attention to the size of the sump, the flow through the sump, the skimmer size, and what kind of filtration you plan on using.

One design consideration for ameliorating the effects of low nighttime DO (and pH) levels is the addition of an RDP (reverse daylight photoperiod) algae reactor. This can be an elaborate affair of a remotely plumbed macroalgae reactor or just a ball of chaeto with a nighttime light spinning slowly in your sump. The effect is the same: to offset the buildup of CO2 in the display tank when there’s no photosynthesis. I have seen these setups almost completely mitigate the daily pH bounce in heavily stocked Acropora reefs.

And while we’re on the subject of setup, run the air intake for your skimmer to someplace outside the house. It’s surprising how much CO2 builds up in a house when it’s being heated in the winter.

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DO HUSBANDRY CONSIDERATIONS After your tank is established, there are still more ways to address DO in your system. The most obvious one is temperature control. As temperatures

rise, oxygen solubility drops. If you live somewhere that gets hot, you should have a way to keep your tank cool. If you don’t have AC in the room where your aquarium is (and maybe even if you do), a chiller is an important consideration. Yes, they’re expensive to buy and expensive to run, but a $400 chiller can save $5,000 of coral, so it’s a reasonable investment.

A lot of reefs that are lost in power failures are lost due to low DO in the system.

Get an emergency backup system to at least provide flow to the tank in a crisis, and consider backups and spare parts for critical water flow equipment. As we discussed above, aerobic filters respire. The bacteria use up oxygen as they break down ammonia and nitrites. The more waste, the more decomposition and the more oxygen these bacteria use. Keeping decaying organics out of the system is a good way to keep your DO levels up (and your nitrates in check). Clean any socks, prefilters, or foam filters weekly, at least. A dirty sandbed is one of the most common causes of persistently low DO. If you choose to use sand, make sure to vacuum it regularly or have a robust cleanup crew for the sandbed.

I hope this article has enhanced your appreciation for the fantastic diversity of how dissolved oxygen works in our reef tanks and that you and your fish will breathe a little easier now. Cheers! R REFERENCES:

A chiller will keep your water temperature cool and dissolved oxygen levels higher. | Image by TECO

1. "Environmental Requirements and Noninfectious Diseases" Joseph R. Tomasso, In: Striped Bass and Other Morone Culture Reginal M. Harrell, Ed, 1997 2. Aquarium Corals: Feeding and oxygen affect coral growth: implications for coral aquaculture

By Tim Wijgerde, In: Advanced Aquarist 3. Ocean acidification affects coral growth by reducing skeletal density Nathaniel R. Mollica, Weifu Guo, Anne L. Cohen, Kuo–Fang Huang, Gavin L. Foster, Hannah K. Donald, and Andrew R. Solow, PNAS February 20, 2018 115 (8) 1754-1759

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ANDRE LAVAREDA

lavareda reef

M

y name is Andre Lavareda, and I’m from Portugal. I have been a hobbyist in the aquarium world for a while now. I put together my first reef aquarium about 12 years ago. For the first 10 years, I only kept basic reef aquariums filled with soft corals. But 2 years ago, I began to focus on SPS (small-polyp stony) corals. It wasn’t until my Yellowfin Surgeonfish (Acanthurus xanthopterus) gained fame through an article on Reef Builders that my passion for reefkeeping really exploded.

My favorite types of aquariums are minimalist aquascapes. I enjoy the challenge of finding balance and harmony between the rocks, corals, and fish, all while trying to keep the display clean and uncluttered.

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This aquarium was built for the purpose of demonstrating that it is possible to maintain a beautiful and healthy reef system with minimal equipment. I also wanted to show that what equipment was required didn’t have to be high end or expensive. Obviously, high-end equipment helps, but by itself, it’s not as important as the overall quality of the husbandry.

Homophyllia bowerbanki

Side view of the tank

Every captive reef environment has its own characteristics and requirements, so each reef aquarium also has its own unique approaches that can result in success.

To maintain the stability of my water parameters, I solely use supplements from Microbe-Lift. My maintenance routine includes a 13-gallon water change every 2 weeks while vacuuming the sandbed. I don’t spend too much time and energy on maintaining specific levels for nutrients; instead, I focus on the consistency of my levels.

In my opinion, my display, up to this point, has progressed quite successfully using what I consider a simple yet comprehensive strategy. More is not always better, whether you’re talking about equipment or livestock; I hope my reef is a testament to this.

Please enjoy this short write-up and the images of Lavareda Reef.

SPECIFICATIONS Volume: ~160 gallons Display: ~67" × 28" × 20" Sump: ~28" × 16" × 16" Lighting: NICREW HyperReef LEDs, (4) 100-watt modules Flow: (2) Sunsun CW Wavemaker Skimmer: Schuran Jetskim 200 Return Pump: Resun 2000 Dosing Pump: Jecod 4 Reef Hobbyist Magazine

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Yellowfin Surgeonfish (Acanthurus xanthopterus)

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Red and green Montipora capricornis

Acropora valida, Stylophora pistillata, and forest green Montipora sp.

Various LPS and SPS corals

PARAMETERS

FISH

Calcium: 410 ppm Magnesium: 1,230 ppm Carbonate Hardness: 6.7° Nitrate: 10 ppm Phosphate: 0.01 ppm

- Acanthurus xanthopterus - Ctenochaetus striatus - Paracanthurus hepatus - Chromis viridis - Halichoeres nebulosus

SUPPLEMENTS, ADDITIVES, FOODS (Microbe-Lift brand)

CORALS

- Balling Basic - KH (180 ml) - Calcium (60 ml) - Magnesium (40 ml) - Aqua-Pure - TheraP - Carbopure - Special Blend - Coral Food SPS - Coral Food LPS - Marine Flakes - Marine Gran

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- (3) Montipora capricornis (purple, red, green) - (2) Seriatopora hystrix (pink, green) - Seriatopora guttatus - Seriatopora caliendrum - Green Forest Montipora - Symphyllia sp.

- Wellsophyllia sp. (marbled) - Homophyllia bowerbanki - Acanthastrea pachysepta - Micromussa lordhowensis (red) - Micromussa lordhowensis (green) - Micromussa lordhowensis (marbled) - Hulk Caulastrea

- Coca-Cola Caulastrea - Palythoa spp.

- Zoanthus spp.

- Lobophyllia sp.

- Briareum sp. (green star polyp) - Lobophytum sp.

- Euphyllia glabrescens - Euphyllia paraancora - Pavona sp.

- Milka Stylophora - Pocillopora sp. (pink) - Staghorn Acropora (green) - Acropora gomezi - Acropora valida - Acropora spathulata - Acropora anthocercis - Acropora sarmentosa - Acropora tenuis - Millepora sp. (pink) - Favia sp. (red, green) - Acanthastrea sp. (rainbow) - Rhodactis sp.

- Strawberry Shortcake Acropora R

Cahuita-Manzanillo, Costa Rica

Reefers Dive:

SABINE PENISSON Images by author except as noted

C O S TA R I C A C

osta Rica is perhaps the world’s most famous ecotourism destination, and its reputation is well deserved. The country attracts nature lovers eager for wildlife encounters, hikers seeking land treks, and adventurers of all sorts. Moreover, some distant islands in the Costa Rican waters are very famous destinations for the observation of large pelagic animals.

Costa Rica is situated between Panama and Nicaragua, a 3- to 7-hour flight from most US cities to the San José or Liberia airports.

From the Caribbean shore to the Pacific coast, the land can be as narrow as 74 miles wide, but with the mountain heights, unspoiled

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forests, and very few roads in most of the central part, it still takes a few hours to cross the country from coast to coast.

Costa Rica has a wet/dry season cycle. The dry season runs from December to May, and the wet season runs from June to November.

The Southern Caribbean coast’s wet season is a little later, from October to January, and February to September is the dry season.

The Caribbean side is much rainier and more of what people think of as tropical than the central heights and Pacific shore. Average temperatures on the coasts range from 82 to 92° F and are cooler up in the mountains at the center of the country. Average water

One of the large predators, the Panama Graysby is quite common along the Pacific coast.

temperatures have a narrow variation of 78 to 84° F all year long on the Caribbean side, though on the Pacific coast during the wet season, the water can drop to 66° F. For scale, the United States is around 200 times larger than Costa Rica, and the population of Costa Rica is around 5 million people. Since the ’60s, Costa Rica has prioritized protection of its beautiful natural land. The country’s policy is to promote and enhance its natural areas and wildlife. Costa Rica has the largest number of protected areas, national parks, and wildlife sanctuaries relative to its size, totaling 161 different entities, covering more than 25 percent of the country. In addition, Costa Rica has a strong national policy toward the environment in general; for example, almost all the electrical power used is sourced from renewable energies.

Many underwater jewels pepper the two coasts of the country, both in the quiet turquoise waters of the Caribbean and the powerful currents of the Pacific Ocean, two totally different experiences just a few hours’ drive from one another. Inexperienced divers will prefer the dry season, when the swell is quieter, the current is weaker, and the visibility is much better. Experienced divers will like the wet season on the Pacific coast, for it brings the zooplankton from the ocean depths and, with it, all the large pelagic fauna, but the swell and currents are harder to cope with.

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Many families of capuchin monkeys live in the forests, in close proximity to the developed areas.

THE CARIBBEAN COAST This side of the country is most famous for the beautiful, endless beaches where marine turtles come to lay their eggs. The area is also very rich in mangrove biotopes. There is less tourism infrastructure here and only a few dive clubs.

Toward the south, you can select your accommodations around the small, relaxed

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The toucan is a colorful and noisy resident of the rainforest.

villages of Cahuita or Manzanillo. There, besides diving, you can explore the two national parks and their beautiful paths along the turquoise shore, meeting capuchin and howler monkeys, raccoons, sloths, golden orb giant spiders, and all sorts of colorful birds, including the iconic toucans. You can also visit sloth and other wildlife sanctuaries, where hurt animals of all kinds recover with thoughtful care.

Punta Uva’s reef is still recovering from the 1991 major earthquake and tsunami.

The coral cover is not really impressive, but iconic fish are present, including Royal Grammas (Gramma loreto) by the dozen, many Caribbean Sharpnose Puffers (Canthigaster rostrata), Rock Beauty Angelfish (Holacanthus tricolor), Jack-knife Fish

Holacanthus passer is one of the iconic angelfishes of the Eastern Pacific.

(Equetus lanceolatus), spiny lobsters, and more. Unfortunately, the invasive lionfishes (Pterois volitans and P. miles) are also present in large numbers in this part of the Caribbean Sea. This aggressive stalker of reef fishes, with no natural predator in the Caribbean, thrives here and has already had negative impacts on the local native fauna. There are fewer and fewer of some native reef fish such as Queen and French Angels, for example, because the lionfish prey on the juveniles of these species.

In the extreme southern part of the country, from Puerto Viejo to the Panama border, many dive sites offer unspoiled reefs, with colonies of Staghorn Acropora in very good shape. Isla Uvita, near the area of Limón, is another nice possibility for diving, giving

Crazy neon-orange eyes look at you inquisitively as you pass by Acanthemblemaria hancocki .

the opportunity to explore several shipwrecks now fully inhabited by marine fauna.

THE PACIFIC COAST Leaving the Caribbean side, you can drive to the Pacific coast and settle in around Bahía Drake, where you have easy access to the world-famous Corcovado National Park, which deserves at least 2 or 3 days of exploration. Here, you can

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diverse rock arrangements and relatively healthy coral cover, this is one of the best protected marine biological reserves, even if the number of species or density of coverage is still far less than some western Pacific locations. In many places, the rocks are covered with beautiful, large, and delicate sea fans like Eugorgia, Pacifigorgia, and bright red Chromoplexaura species. Among these, there are plenty of colorful reef fish to please your eyes, including the striking King Angelfish (Holacanthus passer) and the Cortez Angelfish (Pomacanthus zonipectus). There are two species of butterflyfishes endemic to the Central American Pacific coast: Chaetodon humeralis and Johnrandallia nigrirostris.

meet sloths, tapirs, coatis, red-eye tree frogs and glass frogs, basilisk lizards and iguanas, and colonies of macaws and other parrots. Adventurous travelers can enjoy exotic nights under a tent, surrounded by the impressive howls and barks of various monkey species (and hoping not to face a tarantula, which is very common here).

Here, you can also find the Mexican Hogfish (Bodianus diplotaenia) and the Creolefish (Paranthias furcifer), my favorite species of the area. You may see the Cortez Rainbow Wrasse (Thalassoma lucasanum), the shy yet curious Spotted Sharpnose Pufferfish (Canthigaster punctatissima), or the beautiful sunset-colored Coral Hawkfish (Cirrhitichthys oxycephalus), hidden at the feet of the bright pink or orange sea fans to disguise its presence. Also here is the inquisitive Guineafowl Puffer (Arothron meleagris), the Longspined Porcupinefish (Diodon holocanthus), some Ostracion meleagris clippertonense, as well as shoals of snappers, moray eels, Whitetip Reef Sharks, and turtles. This luscious ecosystem was most surprising to my eyes, new and different from what I usually see while diving.

Diving centers in the area will bring you to Isla del Caño, a small island 10 miles off the northern Osa Peninsula shore. With its

For those nano-creature lovers, in the crevices hide Panamic Redhead Gobies (Tigrigobius punctulatus) and the unforgettable

Mated pairs of Arrow Crabs can be found under ledges on the Pacific shore.

The Leopard Round Stingray (Urobatis pardalis) is a coastal species living in seagrass beds and sedimented intertidal zones.

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The Jewel Moray is a common species around Playas del Coco.

Tufted Blenny, Mccoskerichthys sandae. This little fish (about 2 inches long as an adult) has a pink body and a cream-white head, on top of which stands a tuft of whitish hairs, making it look like the fishy incarnation of Johnny Rotten—totally unforgettable.

Bajo del Diablo is the best dive site in the area. Its strong currents will give you a little glimpse of what the conditions can be like at Cocos, along with a good overview of the species you can meet in both locations but without the bigger sharks of Cocos. Here you will see large shoals of barracuda instead. The Anchor and The Shipwreck are two nice and easy diving spots perfect for beginners.

If you follow the road toward the north, Ballena Marine National Park offers boat trips to spot Humpback Whales, Killer Whales, and dolphins, with some companies even specializing in snorkel tours. The first of two whale-watching seasons is late July or August to early November, when the southern groups of whales come to have their calves in the area. This is the rainy season, so it’s not ideal for regular diving, as visibility is not good.

The other season for whale watching is from late December to late February, when the other whale groups leave the northern hemisphere. Many places along Nicoya and Osa Peninsulas offer access to whale watching as well, as whales are numerous during these months.

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Around Bat Island, you can see dozens of porcupine fish on a single dive!

Up north again, you will pass Puntarenas, where you can take the ferry to Paquera and then drive north to Playas del Coco. This is quite a touristy beach city, with a good reputation for surfing and partying but still smaller and nicer than the spring break hotspot of Jacó.

Advanced divers not afraid of strong currents can head from here for day trips to Las Catalinas, small islands offshore where many giant manta rays settle, as well as other kinds of rays (Mobula spp., eagle rays, stingrays). Sharks, dolphins, and turtles are also common residents here, and sometimes, in season, Humpback Whales and even Orcas show up.

You can have a couple of dives in Playas del Coco bay itself. Although the underwater surroundings here are not pristine coral reef, they are interesting and have their share of tropical fauna with a high density of predators such as Jewel Morays (Muraena lentiginosa), Bullseye, Checkered, and Longnose Puffers (Sphoeroides annulatus, S. testudineus, and S. lobatus), large stingrays, and small sharks. Here, I have seen an absolute record number of porcupine fish, and I remember this place as Diodon paradise; they were everywhere, swimming alone or in packs of five or six or asleep in crevices. Slow species such as seahorses (Hippocampus ingens) can be found quite commonly in this area. Arrow Crabs, Red Cushion Urchins (Astropyga pulvinata), and Flower Sea Urchins (Toxopneustes roseus) were also spotted numerous times during our dives.

Departing from Playas del Coco, adventurous and fearless divers could go north to reach Isla Murcielago (Bat Island) and try to have a close encounter with the dreadful Bull Shark that mysteriously lives here and almost nowhere else along the Costa Rican Pacific coast.

The dive site there is named Big Scare; that says it all. Giant mantas are the other attraction at this spot.

COCOS ISLAND, FOR THE EXPERIENCED PELAGIC FAUNA LOVER For the more experienced diver or those who want to focus their travel only on diving, there are some liveaboard cruises to further destinations such as Cocos Island. Advanced PADI certification is the minimum requirement for this destination because of the depth, heavy surface surge, and strong currents. Cocos is famous worldwide for hosting one of the biggest known assemblies of hammerhead sharks. Located 300 miles off the western Reef Hobbyist Magazine

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Scalloped Hammerhead Shark | Image by ErikvanB

coast, this oceanic island is made up of steep walls and impressive rock pinnacles. There is no coral reef to speak of, so you won’t find the usual small multicolored species crowded all around, but you can spot at least 20 species of endemic fish. Here, you might find the Cocos Wrasse (Halichoeres discolor) or the Rosy-lipped Batfish (Ogcocephalus porrectus).

Big pelagic predators are the stars here. The upwelling currents support a large amount of zooplankton, and the whole food chain follows.

Plankton attract small bait fish, attracting larger bony-fish predators like Giant Trevallies, jacks, snappers, big groupers, tuna, dolphins, and all kinds of rays. These big predators attract even bigger predators: Whitetip, Galapagos, Silvertip, Silky, Blacktip, and Tiger Sharks meet here, and most of all, large shoals of Scalloped Hammerhead Sharks, especially at the dive spot named Bajo Alcyone. Unfortunately, these large predator gatherings are declining in density, as illegal poaching for shark fins occurs not far from the protected park area.

turquoise waters (due to a chemical/optical effect). You can also take a wild spa break in the hot springs and mud pools offered by the slopes of Miravalles.

In the high hills of Monteverde, you will find many parks focused on canopy tours. For example, the Selvatura Park lets you go for the longest zipline ride in any rainforest and offers a total of 2.2 miles of cables into the trees, making a truly unique experience within the luscious tropical biotope. Keep your eyes open because, between the suspended bridges and cables or when you walk on the forest paths, you will spot poison dart frogs, serpents, giant metallic-blue morpho butterflies, and melodious birds, even in touristy places—wildlife is all around! To complete the tour, the park has a very interesting butterfly garden and hummingbird exhibition, where you can admire these beauties as they fly all around you.

“Pura vida,” the Costa Rican motto, encourages us to enjoy every simple pleasure of life and be in contact with all the natural wonders that are within our reach. They are so numerous in this little yet greatly gifted country. It would be a shame if you didn’t come to experience this wild deep breath, whether on land or underwater. R

The ideal diving season is from June to November (rainy season), when the currents bring the biggest zooplankton mass to Cocos. The icing on this already very amazing cake is to meet Whale Sharks and giant manta rays, attracted by the dense plankton banquet.

Back on the mainland, don’t forget to go and trek around at least one of the beautiful volcanos that punctuate the country, like Poás, Arenal, or Irazú. Tenorio Volcano National Park gives opportunities to take a magnificent hike along the Rio Celeste and its enchanted neon-like

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The nocturnal and delicate Red-eyed Tree Frog (Agalychnis callidryas)

Legendary Corals Evil Eye Blastomussa merletti | Image by Legendary Corals

WHAT IS THE

PERFECT CORAL? JARED BURBANK

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Molten Core Blastomussa | Image by World Wide Corals

T

OG Rainbow Blastomussa | Image by World Wide Corals

here is endless debate when it comes to what people consider to be the most perfect coral for home aquaria.

Admittedly, it’s hard to beat an SPS-dominated tank filled with big-name acros or a colorful zoa garden teeming with polyps of contrasting colors. However, these dedicated systems often require very specific parameters and equipment. A tank filled with acros will require high-level lighting, consistent dosing of alkalinity and calcium, and spot-on nutrient control, while a system dedicated to zoas will thrive in higher nutrients, lower lighting, and weaker flow. When I think of the perfect coral, I’m looking for a coral that could thrive in either of these systems and more. It also needs to be hardy and colorful. It's a tall order, but I have a candidate.

My vote for the perfect corals must go to the blastos (Blastomussa spp.). They are easy to keep, come in many vivid colors, and won’t take over your tank like some other fast-growing corals. They don’t require super-bright lighting, are durable, and generally play nice with other corals. Best of all, you don’t need a blasto-specific system to grow these great corals; they adapt well to most reef systems.

The Blastomussa genus is broken down into four different species.

B. wellsi is the most familiar to aquarists, with its smaller cousin B. merletti also being well known in the hobby. The two other species, B. vivida and B. loyae, are rarely targeted for collection.

Of the two common varieties, B. wellsi features larger polyps and higher variations of colors. B. merletti has smaller polyps and Reef Hobbyist Magazine

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generally grows faster. These are both large-polyp stony (LPS) corals that will consume alkalinity in the water as they grow. They won’t, however, suck down alkalinity with the ferocity that SPS (small-polyp stony) corals do and can easily be maintained with just regular water changes. In addition, they are more tolerant than SPS to natural swings in water hardness. As with most LPS, they do well in medium- to lower-level lighting. While most think they require lower flow, they come from turbulent waters and thrive in higher flow, as long as it’s not unidirectional. In fact, one of the easiest ways to kill off a nice B. wellsi colony is to keep it in very low flow.

The result is often an accumulation of detritus on the coral skeleton, followed by nuisance-algae growth and polyp recession.

The skeletal structure of B. merletti originates from a common base and branches up into individual, often dome-shaped heads. The heads of B. merletti usually range from ½" to ¾" across but can grow to over an inch across. B. merletti polyps have discrete skeletons, whereas B. wellsi polyps have a more connected skeleton, and care must be taken to isolate individual polyps when fragging.

One of the best features of blastos is their bright colors. B. merletti is most commonly seen with a purple to red fleshy body with yellowish, green, or blue centers. B. wellsi displays more diversity of color. Its colors range from the more common combinations of green with bluish centers or red with green centers, to exotic variegated, contrasting colorations. Obviously, the bright, multicolored specimens will command higher prices. But even the more common and less expensive varieties display great in the home aquarium. The common diameter of a B. wellsi polyp is 1 to

Blastomussa wellsi | Image by World Wide Corals

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Snowflake Blastomussa | Image by World Wide Corals

Glowbug Blastomussa | Image by World Wide Corals

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2 inches across, but some varieties have polyps that can reach a few inches across.

While direct feeding isn’t required, blastos can benefit from it. Our favorite food for our mixed aquarium is a broadcast distribution of phytoplankton, rotifers, and pods, but the blasto heads can also be individually fed with pellets or meaty foods like mysis shrimp for B. wellsi or brine shrimp for B. merletti.

Like most LPS, blastos have a reputation for being aggressive toward other corals, but I personally think this reputation is exaggerated. We often grow these corals alongside other LPS and softies, including zoanthids and palys. As you can see in the photo below, these blastos are growing alongside a Leptastrea colony and a Favites pentagona (War Coral).

As with many colonial LPS, each polyp is a separate individual animal, and fragging can be done down to the individual polyp. Using a water-cooled diamond bandsaw like Gryphon’s allows you to carve out separate heads.

And because fleshy LPS such as blastos are susceptible to issues like brown jelly infections, it’s best to use an iodine soak after cutting the coral to prevent infection. For detailed blasto fragging info, see the Q3 2020 issue of RHM.

Legendary Corals Heart of Hades Blastomussa wellsi | Image by Legendary Corals

Peaceful coexistence with other corals is possible. | Image by author

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So, are blastos the perfect corals? Quite possibly. Plus, they’re a great way to add some vivid color and diversity to virtually any corner of your tank.

R

Reef Hobbyist Magazine

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