Appetite philippines august 2016

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Menu Sweet and Sour Garlic Prawns

22 HOME COOKING

Dinakdakan

28 IN SEASON

16 THE BIG SPREAD Gin Pomelo Slushie with Basil Syrup

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Law-uy and Sinuglaw

THIRSTY

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Chicken Inasal Tacos

JR CHEF

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INTRODUCTION

COVER

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In Season Chef Trisha shows us other ways of using calamansi

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Lunchbox Slurp your way to the north with this comforting noodle soup

31 RECIPES

Thirsty Learn how to create these classic Filipino bar staples

The Big Spread Have a taste of dishes from our president’s hometown

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Editor’s Note

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Team Picks

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Toolkit ---------------------------------------------

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PEOPLE 20

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Modern Classics Ibanag dishes take center stage Homecooking Use your tastebuds to travel to eastern Visayas with these simple, home-style ulam

Vigan Miki

PHOTOGRAPHED BY ED SIMON OF STUDIO 100

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Home Projects Put a macapuno twist on the pasalubong favorite, cassava cake

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Market Basket Win the hearts of your family and friends with this chicken stew

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The Healthy Plate Chef Barni shows us how to healthify Filipino comfort foods



Rellenong Alimasag

46 JUST DESSERTS

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Coconut Rum Cake

HOMECOOK ONLINE

65 TRAVEL

80 TRAVEL

Bohol Bee Farm

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Recipe 911 Go back to basics with a sinampalukan recipe

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Jr. Chef Put a Pinoy twist to your tacos

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Homecook Online These stuffed crabs will leave you feeling satisďŹ ed

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Insider Learn from Cavite's favorite foodie

Apag Maragle

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DINING

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Restaurant Features Marvel at the different renditions of Filipino food by these four restaurants

The Suite Life Idda upgrades our favorite chicken soups

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Just Dessert The classic rum cake gets coco-ďŹ ed

Resto 6 Zig tries out six comforting batchoy bowls in the metro

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The Bite Crack the story behind the classic Ilocos empanada

Foodbeat Two up-and-coming entrepreneurs you need to know about

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DINING

TRAVEL

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Bohol The Appetite team invades Bohol. Find out what to do, where to eat, and what to bring home from this island paradise ---------------------------------------------

HEART AND HOME 86

Special Feature Count the many ways with halo-halo ---------------------------------------------

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Eatlist A-list Recipe Box

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I Have an Appetite Chef Claude Tayag shares the story behind his recent triumph in the US



NINA DAZA-PUYAT Editor-in-Chief

ANGELI DE RIVERA Deputy Managing Editor YLLAINE SABENECIO Editorial Assistant KEVYN TAPNIO Intern ART PATRICK KASINGSING Group Art Director REGINE PAOLA VELILLA Graphic Designer ALLEN DE GUZMAN Final Artist CLARRYS DE GUIA Intern COLUMNISTS Idda Aguilar, Chef Barni Alejandro-Rennebeck, Celine ClementeLichauco, Chef Carlo Estagle, Ann Kuy, Chef Patty Loanzon, Zig Naguiat, Chef Trisha Ocampo, Chef David and Sofia Pardo de Ayala, Marie Villanueva-Pascual, Chef Giney Villar CHEFS Myke “Tatung” Sarthou CONTRIBUTORS Mike Aviles, Millet Aviles, Paul Catiang, Peter Lim, Malou PerezNievera, Deogracias Victor “DV” Savellana, Heny Sison, Ceej Tantengco, Mateo Ty PHOTOGR APHERS Miguel Abesamis, Krizia Cruz, Floyd Jhocson, Ron Mendoza, Erron Ocampo, John Ocampo, Ed Simon

SPECIAL PROJECTS KENNETH RIVERA, RED DE LEON Associate Creative Directors FRANCESCA PANGILINAN, GABE FERNANDO, STEPHANIE PUYOD Copywriters MIA CATEDRILLA, EJ KAMPITAN, AERISH STA. ANA Graphic Artists HONEY BAGSIC Coordinator LYNN NIDUAZA Makeup Artist

EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT ARCHIE CARRASCO

CIRCULATION Circulation Manager PIERO TALAG

OPERATIONS Admin Associate - Sales & Marketing ANGELA JACOB

Key Account Executives ARNOLD ABOGADA, LECIE NON, NAPOLEON ROPEROGA, DARLITO TAGLAY JR.

SALES Publishers & Group Advertising Directors MAITE TAMPARONG-UY, RYAN ROS CALMANTE Group Advertising Manager JAMES LEONARD CRUZ

RETAIL 100 OIC LYNN NIDUAZA

KEY ACCOUNTS Sr. Key Accounts Managers CARMELLI DAET, CHATTIE SALUDO, KATHLEEN AMANTE Key Account Managers BIANCA BERNARDO, MAUREEN ALEXIS BUSTO, MIKE CABBO DIRECT ACCOUNTS Direct Account Executives FAYE ABUYO, COLLEEN ATIENZA, FONS MARTINEZ, BORJ SANDOVAL SALES SUPPORT Advertising Traffic Assistant EUNIZEL CARBONELL

HUMAN RESOURCES Human Resources Manager LIZ SEGOVIA HR Supervisor – Training and Organizational Development MARIAN RODRIGUEZ HR Supervisor – Recruitment and Employee Relations NIQUE MANALANSAN HR Associate – Timekeeping & Benefits RYANA PANLILIO Payroll Executive KATE BARBA

MARKETING COMMUNICATIONS Marketing Communications Manager DENISE PANTANO Ad & Promo Associate MARVIN MANCERA PR Associates ANGELA JACOB, MIKKO ABELLO PR Assistant SABRINA SOCO INTERNAL EVENTS Copywriter AJ DE LAS ALAS Events Supervisor ARRIANE SANCHEZ Events Assistants KATHLEEN DE LEON, PAULINE DE LEON DIGITAL MEDIA Manager for Digital Business ANNE BERNISCA Digital Marketing AssociateOJ SERRANO Senior Web Developer YASMIN OPLADO Web Developer PAULA MENDOZA Digital Admin Associate JACKIE GAN

OFFICE OF THE CEO Senior Executive Assistant AVY LAGARTO

FINANCE Senior Finance ManagerJONAH VACIO Accounting Manager ALMA ALARCON Senior Accounting Assistant – Treasury MAILEEN CAPILITAN Contract & Billing Supervisor CECILIA TEMPLO Billing Assistant CASS CONTRERAS Accounting Analyst WINTER MONEDO Accounting Assistants CHARKAE CATINDIG, KRISTABELLE PERALTA Credit & Collection Supervisor NAININE BUENAOBRA Credit & Collection Assistants MARIVIC BALTAZAR, CHRISTINE CASTILLO PURCHASING OIC AVY LAGARTO Purchasing Assistant JOY FLAVIANO ADMINISTRATION Admin Manager LIZ SEGOVIA Admin Assistant MELDIE DIENTE Collector ASIDELIO ALCANTARA

PRODUCTION Production Supervisor ALLEN DE GUZMAN Final Artist GEOFFREY JULIAN Production Traffic Associate HONEY BAGSIC Quality Control Associate RODEL TUTOR Quality Control Assistant MYLIN MONTEALEGRE

LOGISTICS Logistics Manager PIERO TALAG Logistics Assistant MARIEL MORENO Warehouse Assistant ERWIN NICOLAS Warehousemen JOHN ARGONZA, HENRY TAPIT

TV 100 TV Head MICHAEL CARANDANG TV Sales & Marketing Manager JACOB BENEDICTO Video Editors JASPER BERMEJO, MARK LEGASTE Videographer IAN VILLARUZ

INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY Software Programmer KEVIN SAMANIEGO

STUDIO 100 Head Photographer ED SIMON Photographers MARK JACOB, FLOYD JHOCSON, RON MENDOZA, JOHN DARYL OCAMPO, YUKIE SARTO Videographer APRIL MANUCOT OIC for Studio 100 Rental LYNN NIDUAZA Technical Custodian JR RAMIREZ

LIBRARY & INFORMATION Library & Information Officer LEANNE TINGSON

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ONE MEGA GROUP

Founder & CEO SARI V. YAP

Chairman J. TIU

Founding Creative Director LORRAINE BELMONTE

is published monthly by the One Mega Group (OMG): 18/F Strata 100 Bldg., F. Ortigas Jr. Road, Ortigas Center, 1605 Pasig, Metro Manila, Philippines. P.O. Box 12762, Ortigas Center, 1652 Pasig. Tel. Nos. Trunkline (02) 631-2859; Advertising (02) 635-2883; Fax No. (02) 631-2862. Website watchappetite.ph. appetite@onemegagroup.com. Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs must be accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. While every reasonable care will be taken by the editors, no responsibility is assumed for the return of unsolicited material. Opinions expressed in this magazine are solely those of the writers and not necessarily endorsed by OMG. Reproduction of photos and articles in full or part is prohibited, unless permission is secured from the editors.

SUKI SALVADOR Vice-President – Magazine & Print Business

ERICA LUNA Editorial Admin Associate MAITE TAMPARONG-UY Group Publisher

We’d love to hear from you! Write to us!

Send your comments, suggestions, or your recipe requests to appetite@onemegagroup.com. Visit our website: watchappetite.ph. Find us on Facebook: facebook.com/appetitemag. Follow us on Instagram instagram.com/appetitemag.



E D I TO R ' S N OT E

PHOTOGRAPHED BY ED SIMON OF STUDIO 100

Anong Lasa?

The A-Team getting some sun at Alona Beach in Panglao Island, Bohol; (Inset) Nina, Regine, and Yllaine ham it up during the shoot at Quezon

Restaurateurs (from left) Mark Abellon with Chef Poch Hogar of Braska (p.54); Kristine Dela Riva Kokseng of Hukad sa Golden Cowrie (p.56); and Cherry Tan and Mark Navarro of Apag Marangle (p.58)

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ISN’T IT CURIOUS HOW WE FILIPINOS USE THE WORD MASARAP IN SENTENCES THAT DO NOT PERTAIN TO FOOD? Ang sarap ng hangin. Ang sarap ng amoy. Ang sarap mag-exercise. When we like somebody, we say that he or she is, “masarap kausap” and “masarap kasama”. Isn’t it funny how we always blurt out, “Ang sarap kumain!” usually in the middle of a meal we’re already eating. We Pinoys really love our food but we also like the act of eating itself. We savor our food with gusto and express our feelings of approval in many ways. We close our eyes, lick our lips, nod our head in approval or even shake our head in disbelief that something in our mouth could taste so unbelievably good. As a partner to our beloved rice, Pinoy food is never bland and always distinctly flavored. Thus, we have flavors that are dominantly salty (maalat), sour (maasim), sweet (matamis), bitter (mapait), spicy (maanghang) or umami (malinamnam). Of course, we also like the blended flavors like matamis na maanghang, or the maalat na maasim, don’t we? It’s also interesting to note how Tagalog has many words to describe nuances in taste and texture like malutong, makunat, malambot, matigas, and malagkit. How about words like mapakla, maanggo, maanta, and even malabsa—some of which may not even have an exact translation in English. This extensive culinary vocabulary is proof that food is an integral part of our culture, then and now. In producing this regional Filipino issue, we travelled vicariously to the different provinces by testing and tasting everyday dishes from Cagayan, Samar, Davao, Vigan, and Batangas. We also found different

permutation of halo-halo from all over— there’s one with cheese, another one with coffee and even one with chili peppers! We’d also like to put a spotlight on our culinary ambassadors who are actively promoting Filipino food. There’s Ige Ramos (The Insider), proud son of Cavite, who revealed so many fascinating facts about Cavite’s culinary culture. Not many Pinoys know about Malou Perez Nievera (The Big Spread) here but in the U.S. she keeps busy promoting Filipino food by doing pop-ups, cooking demos and guestings on local TV and radio. Writer and gourmand Claude Tayag (I Have an Appetite) continues to shine, taking his expertise of Kapampangan food to the world. For this regional special, the Appetite Team traveled to Bohol to find out the latest eats and treats in that gorgeous island paradise. We basked in the Boholanos’ warm hospitality and marveled at how they are able to transform simple ingredients like ginger, ube, cassava, and honey into amazing food products. It is no doubt a testament to the Pinoy’s innate creativity and ingenuity. With this issue, may all Filipinos like you and me, feel enriched by this added knowledge about Philippine food and culture. May it give us a sense of pride and a newfound appreciation of who we really are. Ang sarap maging Pilipino Thank you for inviting me into your kitchens!

Nina Daza-Puyat Editor in chief P.S. Follow me and the Appetite team on Instagram @ninadp8 and @appetitemag



T E A M P I C KS

QUESTION OF THE MONTH

What's your favorite Pinoy comfort soup? The first time I ate (and fell in love with) kansi was during a rainy evening in a tiny Bacolod eatery. The beef soup sure hits the spot as it gave me comfort and energy to finish my work. Aida’s Kansi Beef (P280) never fails to bring me back to that night when I first tried the soup, and I have remained a devotee of its melancholy-healing flavors. Aida’s version however ups the ante with its batwan-enriched sour broth with a hint of heat from the siling labuyo and fork-tender beef shank meat that’s been simmering for hours before being served. - Angeli

Although this was not a childhood staple in my house growing up, I learned to love sinigang sa bayabas as an adult. Guavas are not always available, so having this soup, which is traditionally cooked with bangus, is always such a treat. Victorino’s Sinigang Nga Bangus Ti Bayabas (P390) is made the old-fashioned way with real, ripe guavas—giving the soup an almost creamy consistency that’s somewhat sweet and mildly sour. You’ll need a cup of rice though because there’s plenty of crisp tender sitaw, labanos and kangkong to partner with the boneless bangus belly slices. I like to customize my bowl with a tiny cut of the green finger chili in the soup and always, a drizzle of patis, for good measure. - Nina VICTORINO'S. 114 SCOUT RALLOS ST., CORNER 11TH JAMBOREE ST., QUEZON CITY. CALL (02) 414-7465

AIDA'S. LG/F, MAKATI CINEMA SQUARE, CHINO ROCES AVE. LEGASPI VILLAGE, MAKATI CITY. CALL (02) 811-1537

I am a huge fan of noodle soups, soups especially when it’s raining. raining If I want my Filipino noodle soup fix, I head over to Sarsa and order a serving of their Madrid Fusión Super Batchoy (P450). Chef JP's rendition of the Ilonggo soup has hefty portions of innards, meat, and noodles. It's topped with crunchy tuna skin, kurobuta char siu, and soft-boiled eggs. The broth has a rich and garlicky flavor that brings all the ingredients together. With just a few tweaks, our favorite batchoy just got elevated to a whole new level. - Yllaine

A myriad of sourness, sweetness, crunch, and linamnam, Simple Lang's Sinigang na Bagnet sa Watermelon (P395) is an interesting tweak to our favorite Pinoy classic. Their sinigang (which is almost as delicious as my mother's), has thick fatty slabs of bagnet drowning in a tangy-sweet watermelon soup. I still say my mother's classic pork sinigang is the winner, but Simple Lang's signature dish comes in as a close second— and that's saying a lot. - Regine SIMPLE LANG. AYALA TRIANGLE GARDENS, MAKATI CITY

SARSA. 122 JOYA LOFTS & TOWERS, AMORSOLO DRIVE, ROCKWELL, MAKATI CITY. CALL (02) 625-5166

Whenever Pinoy soups are brought up, I immediately think of clam soup. It's appetizing and always comforting. It can be paired with other dishes or it can stand alone as a main dish. Whenever I crave it, I always go for KKK’s Suwam na Halaan at Kabute (P240). It has the perfect blend of the natural flavors of clams, native mushrooms, and sili leaves. - Clarrys KKK. LG/F SM MEGAMALL BUILDING B, EDSA CORNER JULIA VARGAS AVE., MANDALUYONG CITY

Growing up in Pampanga filled my childhood with fond memories of eating my lolo’s favorite seafood dishes. Perhaps this is why I always go for seafood when it’s on the menu. Kuya J’s Seafood Soup (P240) has two things that never fail to satisfy my taste buds: seafood and spice. Shrimps, squid rings, and fish can be found in the spicy, tomatoinfused broth, providing a flavor that’s almost like sinigang but not quite. You’ll have to be watchful when you eat this though. Bits of siling pansigang not-so-innocently float among the ingredients, often sneaking their way onto your spoon. You might want to keep a wary eye with every sip you take of this deliciously fiery soup. - Kevyn KUYA J HAS A BRANCH LOCATED AT SM MEGAMALL BUILDING A, EDSA COR. JULIA VARGAS AVE., MANDALUYONG CITY

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TOOLKIT

Ravishing in Rustic Spruce up your dining area with these lovely local goods from Domesticity Styling by Angeli De Rivera Photographed by Miguel Abesamis of Studio 100 All items from Domesticity

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1 Carine Food Pedestal with Chalkboard - Large (P670) 2 Maya Bird Placemat Set (P895/set of 4) 3 Remi Enamel Soup Bowl Set (P395) 4 Carine Food Pedestal with Chalkboard - Small (P550) 5 Honey Bee Tumblers (P500/set of 4) 6 Bon Appetit Glass Tray (P395) 7 Carine Wooden Bowls (P180/pc) 8 Remi Enamel Dinner Plate (P275/pc) 9 Corinne Wicker Plate Charger (P255/pc) 10 Vintage Cutlery Placemat Set (P895/set of 4) 11 Carine Condiment Green Set (P660) 12 Julien Serving Tray (P1,250) 13 Chantelle Bread Basket (P715)

For more home items visit www.mydomesticity.com

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RECIPES AUGUST 2016

Cassava could be toxic if not prepared properly. Peeling, grating, and thorough cooking gets rid of the toxins found in the sweet variety, but the bitter variety requires a more extensive process of preparation like fermenting or drying

PHOTOGRAPHED BY PAULUS SILVA

No time to go on a food trip around the Philippines? Our recipes got you covered: go savor our local dishes from north to south with Ilocos’ miki, Samar’s hinatukan gulay, and Davao’s sinuglaw


THE BIG SPREAD

Davao Delights Get a taste of homestyle dishes prepared in Davaoeño homes Recipes by Mike Aviles, Mateo Ty, and Millet Aviles Ty of Lachi’s Photographed by Krizia Cruz Food preparation and styling by Nina Daza-Puyat Assisted by Clarrys De Guia

Sinuglaw

SINUGLAW DRESSING •Juice of 6 calamansi 2 Red onions, thinly sliced 1 thumb- Ginger, peeled and cut size into thin strips 1 Cucumber, peeled, deseeded, and thinly sliced 5 Green finger chilies (siling mahaba), thinly sliced 2 tsps Rock salt ¾ cup Coconut or white cane vinegar 1. Season pork belly with salt and pepper or marinate with any store-bought barbecue sauce. Grill over charcoal until done, then slice into ½-inch pieces. Set aside.

Makes 8-10 servings Pork belly (liempo) •Salt and pepper, to season •Store-bought barbecue sauce (optional) 1 kilo Fresh blue marlin (you can also use tuna or tanigue), washed cut into cubes or sliced sashimi-style 1 kilo

NOTE: For added texture and flavor, you may also add thinly sliced radish (labanos), jicama (singkamas), or green apples

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2. Place sliced fish in a bowl and chill in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. 3. Meanwhile, prepare the sinuglaw dressing. In a bowl, combine calamansi juice, red onions, ginger, cucumber, and siling mahaba. Mix thoroughly.

4. In a large bowl, salt the fish cubes and mix well. Add the calamansi mixture and toss. Pour in the vinegar and mix well. Next, add the grilled pork belly then mix again. Taste and adjust seasoning. Transfer to a serving dish then serve immediately.


Law-uy Makes 5-6 servings 3-4 cups Second rice washing* (pangalawang hugasbigas) 1 thumb- Ginger, peeled, cut, size and crushed 2 stems Green onion leaves, cut into 1-inch pieces 1 wedge Squash, cubed 3 Saba bananas, cut into 3 slices 3 Eggplants, cut into 2-inch pieces 6 Okras, ends trimmed, cut into 3 slices 1 Tbsp Patis 1 bundle Alugbati leaves 1 cup Malunggay leaves 1. In a medium saucepot, boil second rice washing with ginger and onion leaves. Once it boils, add squash, bananas, eggplants, and okras. Continue to boil the vegetables for 5-8 minutes. Season with patis. 2. Lastly, add alugbati and malunggay. Boil for another minute and turn off heat. Taste and adjust seasoning. Serve hot. NOTE: According to Delia Dadapan, staff of the Aviles family for over 26 years now, the usual law-uy has shredded fried fish and traditionally does not have bananas. We find that this version has a “cleaner” taste without the fish, and the bananas make it pleasantly sweet. – Mike Aviles of Lachi’s

How to obtain rice washing: When cooking rice, rinse grains in water and throw out first wash. Add more water and stir rice with fingers. Pour out rice grains into a strainer reserving the second rice washing for this dish. The starch from the rice grains gives the law-uy a more viscous, nutritious broth.

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THE BIG SPREAD

Alimango't Kangkong sa Gata Makes 6-8 servings Mature coconut (niyog), grated Warm water Ginger, thinly sliced Red onion, sliced Lemongrass (tanglad), smashed Bird’s eye chili (siling labuyo), chopped •Patis, to season •Salt, to season 1 kilo Crabs, cleaned and cut into quarters 1 bunch Kangkong leaves and stems

1 1 ½ cups 1 inch 1 1 stalk 1

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1. Squeeze grated coconut to obtain first extraction (kakang gata). Strain coconut cream or thick coconut milk and set aside.

4. Add crabs and cook in the coconut milk mixture over medium heat for 5-10 minutes, depending on the size of the crabs.

2. To the grated coconut, add warm water. Squeeze to obtain second extraction (gata). Strain thin coconut milk and set aside.

5. Pour in the kakang gata. Continue to stir and cook for another three minutes until the sauce becomes slightly thick. Taste and season with salt or patis. Add kangkong stems and then leaves. Turn off heat and transfer to a serving dish. Serve hot.

3. Pour thin coconut milk or gata into a wok or medium saucepot and cook over medium heat. Add the ginger, onion, lemongrass, siling labuyo, and patis. Bring to a boil and let simmer for about three minutes while stirring to prevent coconut milk from curdling.


Burrito Bowl Makes 2-3 servings

Ginanggang (Sinugbang Saging) Makes 5 servings 10 5 tsps

Semi-ripe saba bananas Star margarine •White sugar, for coating

Peel bananas and skewer two pieces each into pre-soaked barbecue sticks. Grill over live coals until slightly charred. Spread bananas generously with margarine while still hot. Roll in white sugar once. Serve.

SPICY AVOCADO LIME SAUCE

Lachi's is a 15-year old restaurant that is a favorite of many Davao City families for its traditional and modern home-cooked dishes, and well-loved desserts. It is named after the family's matriarch, Lachi Aviles, whose recipes inspired her twin sons, Mel and Mike Aviles, to open the restaurant.

Vegetable oil Butter Onion, minced Garlic, minced Ground beef Taco seasoning mix Store-bought salsa Corn kernels Canned black beans Cooked rice Chopped cilantro t4BMU BOE QFQQFS UP TFBTPO t/BDIP DIJQT GPS TFSWJOH

Sinugbang Saging or Ginanggang is typical merienda fare sold in the streets of Davao. Purists would insist on using only Star margarine!

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MODERN CLASSICS

The Cagayan Connection Tuguegarao-born Malou PerezNievera shares two dishes of her childhood Recipes by Malou Perez Nievera of SkiptoMalou.net Photographed by Miguel Abesamis of Studio 100 Food preparation and styling by Nina Daza-Puyat Art direction by Angeli De Rivera

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Igado Makes 6-8 servings 2 Tbsps 1 Tbsp 1 1 kilo 1 cup ¼ cup 3 Tbsps ¼ kilo 3 1 cup

Lard or cooking oil Minced garlic Large onion, diced Pork tenderloin, cut into strips Water Vinegar Soy sauce Pork liver, cut into strips Red bell peppers, cut into strips Frozen green peas, thawed •Salt and ground black pepper, to season 3 pcs Chicken liver, boiled and then mashed (optional)

1. In a sauté pan, melt pork fat or cooking oil over medium heat, then sauté garlic and onion. Add pork and stir until pork is cooked, about five minutes. 2. Add broth or water, and let it simmer for five minutes. Add vinegar and soy sauce. Don’t stir until the sauce simmers. 3. Add liver and red bell pepper strips and green peas. You may opt to add the mashed chicken liver to thicken the sauce. Otherwise, continue to simmer until sauce is reduced by half. Serve hot with rice.


Pinatarong (Galapong sa Latik) Makes 6-8 servings 1 cup ½ cup 3 cups ¾ cup 1 cup

Sticky rice flour* Water Coconut milk Brown sugar Water •Pandan leaf or vanilla bean, for flavoring

1. Prepare the galapong balls by mixing sticky rice flour with water. Stir until combined and mixture forms a thick mass with the texture of clay. Adjust the consistency by adding more flour or water. 2. Form galapong balls about the size of marbles. Keep them on a plate dusted with flour until ready to use. 3. Pour the coconut milk into a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil and continue to stir until most of the liquid has evaporated. The milk will begin to change its color to light brown and it will begin to form into brown bits. 4. At this point, add the brown sugar. Continue to stir until sugar caramelizes. Once it has caramelized, add water and let it simmer to form a thick sauce. 5. While the sauce is simmering, drop the galapong balls and simmer until the balls are cooked, about 5-7 minutes. Usually, the sticky rice balls float when they are cooked. Serve with carabao's milk, if available.

Sticky rice flour from Thailand *is NOTE: available in the flour section of most large supermarkets. They are also sold in some wet markets stalls selling halo-halo ingredients.

Malou Nievera is the creative driving force behind the food blog, Skip to Malou, and was named as one of Babble’s Top 100 Food Mom Blogs. She acts as the blog's recipe developer, writer, cook, and photographer. She shares her easy and simple recipes with a focus on Filipino food. She also shares her recipes in her YOUTUBE channel, TheSkip2MalouShow.

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HOMECOOKING

Samar Solstice Eastern Visayas fare dazzles with simple but intense flavors Recipes by Peter Lim Photographed by John Ocampo of Studio 100 Art direction by Regine Paola Velilla Assisted by Paulus Silva and Lanz Enterina

Hinatukan Gulay (Ginataang Sigarilyas) Makes 4-5 servings ½ cup 1 small 1 slice 2 pcs 8 ½ kilo

½ cup

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Thin coconut milk, second extraction (pangalawang piga) Onion, chopped Ginger, cut into strips Dried fish, fried and shredded (makes about ¼ cup) Squid balls, quartered Winged beans (sigarilyas), washed and sliced •Salt, to season Fresh thick coconut cream

1. In a wok, combine the thin coconut milk, chopped onion, ginger strips, shredded dried fish, and squid balls. Bring mixture to a boil over medium heat for about 3-4 minutes. 2. When coconut milk changes color, add the sigarilyas then stir and simmer until half-cooked. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt. 3. Next, add the thick coconut cream and continue to simmer until vegetables are crisp tender. 4. Turn off heat and transfer to a serving platter. Serve immediately.


Burrito Bowl Makes 2-3 servings SPICY AVOCADO LIME SAUCE 1 Large avocado, pitted 3 cloves Garlic, crushed 2 Tbsps Lime juice 2 tsps Hot sauce t4BMU BOE QFQQFS UP TFBTPO BURRITO RICE 2 Tbsps Vegetable oil 1 Tbsp Butter 1 Onion, minced 4 cloves Garlic, minced ¼ kilo Ground beef 3 Tbsps Taco seasoning mix ½ cup Store-bought salsa ½ cup Corn kernels ½ cup Canned black beans 2 ½ cups Cooked rice 4 Tbsps Chopped cilantro t4BMU BOE QFQQFS UP TFBTPO t/BDIP DIJQT GPS TFSWJOH

Sweet and Sour Garlic Prawns Makes 4-5 servings ½ kilo 1 head ¼ cup 2 Tbsps ½ cup 1 cup 1 tsp 1 tsp

Prawns or medium-size shrimps, peeled Garlic, chopped Cane vinegar Soy sauce •Salt and pepper, to season Cornstarch Cooking oil Spring onions, chopped into 1-inch lengths Chopped cilantro

SWEET AND SOUR SAUCE 1 head Garlic, chopped ½ cup Cane vinegar 3 Tbsps Brown sugar •Salt and pepper, to season 1. Marinate prawns in a bowl with a mixture of garlic, cane vinegar, and soy sauce. Season lightly with salt and pepper. 2. After five minutes, pour out the marinade and dredge prawns in cornstarch.

1. Make the Spicy Avocado Lime Sauce. Using a food processor, combine avocado flesh, garlic, lime juice, and hot sauce and process until smooth. Season with salt and pepper. Taste and adjust seasoning with lime juice and/or hot sauce. Make the burrito rice. 2. In a large skillet, heat oil and melt butter over medium heat. Sauté onions and garlic for 3 minutes then add ground beef. Sauté the beef until brown then add taco mix, salsa, corn kernels, and black beans. Cook for another 10 minutes until beans are soft. Add the rice and mix well. Season with salt and pepper. 3. Arrange rice in a bowl then top with Spicy Avocado Lime Sauce and bottled salsa. Serve nacho chips on the side.

and set aside on a plate lined with paper towels. 4. In another small saucepot, combine garlic, vinegar, and brown sugar to make the sweet and sour sauce. Bring to a boil and simmer for a few minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. 5. Add cooked prawns and stir to let sauce coat the prawns evenly. Transfer to a serving platter then garnish with spring onions or chopped cilantro. Serve immediately.

3. Heat cooking oil in a wok or large sauté pan. Deep-fry prawns just until they curl up and turn orange. Remove prawns with tongs

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HOMECOOKING

Samar-style Fish Escabeche Makes 4-5 servings Fish steaks (Mahi-mahi or blue marlin), or 1 medium-size whole fish such as lapu-lapu, labahita, tilapia, or ½ kilo small whole fish like hasa-hasa, alumahan, matambaka •Salt, for seasoning 1 cup Cooking oil

½ kilo

ESCABECHE SAUCE 2 Tbsps Cooking oil 6 cloves Garlic, crushed 1 Onion, thinly sliced 3 thumb size Turmeric root (luyang dilaw), julienned 2 thumb-size Ginger, julienned 1 Red bell pepper, thinly sliced 1 Green bell pepper, thinly sliced 1 cup Cane vinegar ¼ cup Sugar 1 Tbsp Salt •Water, as needed

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1. Rinse the fish steaks in water. Drain then pat dry with paper towels. Season with salt. If using a whole fish, ask fish vendor to remove the fish gills and entrails, then clean fish thoroughly by rinsing in water. Drain then pat dry with paper towels. Season with salt. 2. Heat some oil in a frying pan. Pan-fry the fish steaks until lightly seared on both sides. If using medium or small whole fish, fry until golden on both sides. Remove from heat when cooked and set aside. 3. Next, make the escabeche sauce. In a large sauté pan, heat cooking oil and sauté the garlic and onions until soft. 4. Toss in luyang dilaw, ginger, and bell peppers. 5. Pour in cane vinegar, sugar, and salt. Stir to dissolve. Bring to a boil then simmer for a few minutes to allow the acidity of the vinegar to evaporate. Add a little water if you prefer a milder sauce. 6. Add fish and let simmer in the sauce for about two minutes. Taste and correct seasoning with salt and/or sugar. Remove from heat and transfer to a serving platter. Serve with steamed rice.


Pork Pata with Hibe and Dried Mushrooms Makes 4-5 servings ½ cup 2 Tbsps 1 head 1 12 ¼ cup ½ cup ½ cup 2 2 1 2 cups ½ cup

Brown sugar Cooking oil Garlic, chopped Pork leg (pata), sliced •Water, as needed Dried black mushroom, soaked in hot water, stems removed Dried shrimp (hibe), soaked in hot water Soy sauce Oyster sauce Bay leaves (laurel) Star anise Cinnamon bark Pork broth Cornstarch slurry (2 Tbsps cornstarch + ½ cup water) •Salt and pepper, to season

1. In a large wok, heat brown sugar and cooking oil together over low heat. Stir continuously until it melts and caramelizes. Be careful not to let it burn.

2. As soon as it caramelizes, add the garlic and pork leg pieces. Mix well until pork is coated with the caramel syrup. 3. Transfer pork into a pot and add enough water. Bring mixture to a boil. Cover the pot and simmer until tender, about an hour or more. Add more water, if necessary. When pork is tender, drain pork pieces and reserve the broth. 4. Add the hibe and rehydrated mushrooms. Season with soy sauce, oyster sauce, bay leaves, star anise, and cinnamon bark. Pour about two cups pork broth and bring up to a boil. 5. Add cornstarch slurry then simmer until the sauce is thickened and reduced. Season with salt and pepper according to taste. Transfer to serving plate then serve with steamed rice.

Aside from his passion for fashion, designer Peter Lim also has a passion for cooking. He was exposed to the kitchen at a young age of six in his hometown Catbalogan, Samar, where he used to watch their kusinera at work. Peter took up culinary arts in the International School of Culinary Arts and Hotel Management.

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HOME PROJECTS

Cassava Comfort Take a bite of this sweet gooey merienda favorite

Bibingkang Cassava with Macapuno Makes 12-15 servings

Recipe by Mariquita Villanueva Adriano From The Philippine Cookbook by Virginia Roces de Guzman and Nina Daza-Puyat Photographed by Paulus Silva

¾-1 kilo 3 2 cups 3 cups 1 cup ¼ cup ¼ cup

Cassava (makes about 7 cups grated cassava) Eggs Sugar Thick coconut milk Evaporated milk Melted butter Macapuno preserves

MACAPUNO CUSTARD TOPPING 1 cup Thick coconut milk 2 Tbsps Flour 1 can Condensed milk 2 Egg yolks ½ cup Macapuno preserves* 1. Mix coconut milk with flour. Add condensed milk and cook over medium heat until thick, about 10-15 minutes. 2. Add egg yolks and mix well. Return to heat and cook for five minutes more. 3. Pour custard over baked bibingka. Top with macapuno preserves and broil until golden brown. NOTE: The original recipe calls for two tablespoons grated cheese as topping. Use grated cheese instead of macapuno to make a cheese-custard topping.

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1

Remove the thick bark of the cassava using a sharp knife by making a shallow incision lengthwise, then peel it off. Rinse peeled cassava in water then drain.

2

Grate cassava tubers using a fine grater. Measure seven cups grated raw cassava into a large bowl.

3

Take a clean cheesecloth and place about a cup of grated cassava in the middle of the cloth. Twist top to form a pouch. Squeeze grated cassava until dry, letting the liquid drip down.

4

Save the pulp and set aside.

5

In a mixing bowl, beat eggs and sugar until lemon colored using a whisk.

6

Add thick coconut milk and evaporated milk.

7

Add melted butter to squeezed grated cassava and mix well.

8

Pour batter into a greased 9- x 13-inch pan (or two 8- x 8-inch pans) lined with banana leaves. Bake at a preheated 350°F oven for 40 minutes or until the bibingka is fully baked.

9

When baked, top bibingkang cassava with macapuno custard topping and broil in the oven for 15-20 minutes or until browned. Serve warm.

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IN SEASON | Ca lamansi

Calamansi Collective The country’s go-to souring agent is this month’s highlighted ingredient Recipes by Chef Trisha Ocampo Photographed by Floyd Jhocson of Studio 100 Art direction by Yllaine Sabenecio Plated by Chef MIguel Antonio Lorino Assisted by Ron Marc Baga and Paulina Monsale

Dinakdakan Makes 6-8 servings 1 kilo Pork face (maskara) or pig's ears, cleaned and trimmed thoroughly 1 White onion, peeled and halved 2-3 Bay leaves 2 Tbsps Salt 2 Tbsps Black peppercorns •Water, for boiling 2 Red onions, sliced or chopped ½ thumb- Ginger, minced size 1-3 Bird’s eye chilies (siling labuyo), sliced diagonally 2 Green chilies (siling mahaba), sliced diagonally 5 Tbsps White vinegar 4 Tbsps Calamansi juice 4 Tbsps Soy sauce 2-3 Tbsps Mayonnaise •Salt and pepper, to season

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1. Put pork face or pork ears, onion, bay leaves, salt, and black peppercorns in a pot over medium heat and cover with enough water. Bring to a boil then skim off the scum that floats on top. Lower heat, cover and simmer for about 45 minutes to an hour or until meat is tender but not falling apart. Remove meat and drain well. 2. Over hot coals, grill pork for about 4-6 minutes on each side or until crisp and slightly charred. Allow to cool then slice meat into strips. 3. In a large bowl, combine pork, red onions, ginger, and chilies. Add vinegar, calamansi juice, soy sauce then toss to combine. Add mayonnaise and stir until well-distributed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately.

To T o llessen esse es s n the se the heat he eatt of chili peppers, soak in water first then remove seeds


Baked Prawns Makes 6 servings 10-12 Large tiger prawns, cleaned and trimmed ⅛ cup Calamansi juice ¼ cup Butter, softened 3 Tbsps Minced garlic ½ cups Grated quick melt cheese •Chopped parsley, for garnish 1. Using a pair of kitchen shears, cut the prawn shell along the length of the back to the tail. With a small sharp knife, cut the prawn meat gently in the back, from head to the tail. Remove the black vein then split open the prawn to butterfly. Repeat with the rest of the prawns.

2. Line the baking tray with aluminum foil, then arrange the butterflied prawns with the meat facing up. Drizzle prawns with calamansi juice, and then brush with butter. Top with minced garlic, then with grated cheese. 3. Place in a preheated 350˚F oven and bake for 15-20 minutes until the cheese starts to melt and turns golden brown. 4. Remove from oven and arrange the prawns on a platter. Drizzle with drippings collected from the baking dish and garnish with chopped parsley. Serve immediately.

Chef Trisha Ocampo is a graduate of Le Cordon Bleu in California. She has worked in various restaurants in the United States. Since she moved back to the Philippines, she has been a part of the faculty for the Center for Culinary Arts, Manila, where she does cooking demos and develops recipes for the school. She also does consultation for different restaurants and food companies.

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LU N CH BOX

Slurp du Sur Soothe your senses with this comforting noodle soup from Ilocos Sur Recipe from NAIMAS! The Food Heritage of Ilocos Sur By Deogracias Victor “DV” Savellano and Heny Sison Food preparation by Nina Daza-Puyat Art direction by Regine Paola Velilla

Vigan Miki Makes 2-3 servings 1 Tbsp 1 1 head ½ cup ½ cup 3 Tbsps 3-4 cups ¼ tsp 3 cups ½ tsp 1

Cooking oil Red onion, chopped Garlic, chopped Boiled and shredded chicken breast Pork, boiled and cut into strips Fish sauce (patis) Chicken stock Annatto powder Ilocos Sur Miki noodles* •Salt and pepper, to season Chopped spring onions, to garnish Hard-boiled egg, quartered •Chili powder (optional)

1. In a casserole, sauté onion and garlic in cooking oil. 2. Add chicken breast, pork strips, and patis then sauté for two minutes. 3. Add chicken stock and annatto powder then let come to a boil. 4. Add just enough miki noodles depending on how thick or soupy you want your soup to be. Simmer until tender. Season with salt and pepper. 5. Divide the Vigan miki into individual bowls then garnish with spring onions and pieces of hard-boiled egg. Serve with chili powder on the side, if desired.

G R O C E RY T I P

The miki won’t taste the same with any other type of noodle. Get your supply of dried miki noodles from Ilocos Sur at Heny Sison’s Desserterie inside Victorino’s. SCOUT RALLOS COR. 11TH JAMBOREE, DILIMAN, QUEZON CITY. FOR ORDERS, CALL (02) 922-8558. NAIMAS! THE FOOD HERITAGE OF ILOCOS SUR BOOK IS ALSO AVAILABLE IN VICTORINO’S

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THIRSTY

Pretty in Pink No girly drinks here! Serve these mixed cocktails in your next party Recipes by Yllaine Sabenecio Photographed by Miguel Abesamis of Studio 100 Art direction by Angeli De Rivera

Classic Weng-weng Makes 6-8 servings

Gin Pomelo Slushie with Basil Syrup Makes 3-4 servings

¼ cup ¼ cup ¼ cup ¼ cup ¼ cup ¼ cup 1 cup 1 cup 1 ½ Tbsps 1 ½ cups

Tequila Scotch Brandy Rum Bourbon Vodka Orange juice Pineapple juice Grenadine Ice cubes

Put all the ingredients in a pitcher and stir. Pour into shot glasses and serve immediately.

6 segments ¼ cup ¾ cup 1 cup

Fresh pomelo Basil syrup Gin Ice cubes

Put all the ingredients in a blender and blend until smooth. Serve immediately. BASIL SYRUP 1 cup Sugar 1 cup Water ¼ cup Fresh basil leaves, chiffonade Put sugar and water in a saucepot over medium heat and stir until sugar dissolves. Add basil leaves and continue simmering for ten minutes. Remove from the pot and let cool.

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31



PEOPLE

AUGUST 2016

PHOTOGRAPHED BY FLOYD JHOCSON OF STUDIO 100

Want something new yet still familiar? Try these new takes on arroz caldo and Bicol express. Still craving for the classics? Savor the sinampalukang manok and rellenong alimasag. Plus, discover the sweet story of the Boholana who will change your perspective on chocolates

Make sure you don't overstuff your tortillas so you can still roll it without making a mess


MARKET BASKET

A Winning Dish This Panganinense chicken dish will turn your frown upside down Recipe by Chef Giney Villar Photographed by John Ocampo of Studio 100 Art cirection by Regine Paola Velilla Sittings editor Yllaine Sabenecio

WE FILIPINOS ALWAYS SOMEHOW THINK OF WAYS TO MAKE DISASTROUS SITUATIONS INTO SOMETHING POSITIVE. Floods? Create a makeshift raft, grab some beer, and have an instant floating party. Someone holds you up, but leaves you enough change to go home—we give thanks that nothing worse happened. Your fighting cock loses? Time for talunang manok! I have heard of talunang manok years before, but I thought it was a joke until Mark Cojuangco, former representative of the 5th District of Pangasinan mentioned it. I knew Mark from a few years ago, when he and his wife, then representative Kimi Cojuangco, together with Twitter advocates used to meet at our former restaurant, Adarna Food and Culture in Quezon City. On potluck nights, he often brought his to-live-for bacalao. Now it can be told that I would always take a portion of it before it was served for fear I wouldn’t see it anymore once it lands on the buffet table! You just know that it’s an heirloom recipe. Some time ago, we had the pleasure of being dinner guests at their home in Pangasinan. Aside from the opportunity to pester their versatile cook, Alex, I also got to try local delicacies and go on trips to the Sison-Buguias Trading Post, which they put up during their terms for the farmers from both Pangasinan and Benguet. They have the freshest and cheapest vegetables on sale that brought me to my knees when I thought about the quality and prices in Manila. We also went to the Pozzorubio town market, which was very clean and organized and had the most interesting produce and products. And so it happened that Mark and I were last at the table, and I asked him about distinctly Pangasinan dishes. “Talunang manok!” he immediately replied, as he proceeded to describe the process animatedly. “Use native chicken preferably, sauté onion and ginger, [then] add achuete oil, patis, and liver. Add water and cook in low fire until the liver disintegrates and becomes

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part of the thick sauce, add labuyo to taste… SARAP!” he exclaimed, throwing his hands up in the air. I wanted to go the nearest cockpit. It has been said that the final destination of a losing fighting cock was usually the pot. Not surprising, considering the mindset of the practical Filipino housekeeper who would loath it if anything goes to waste. In some places, it ends up as tinola. But in Pangasinan, they tell it like it is. Of course, we do not have to be sabungeros to create and enjoy this simple and very tasty dish. Native chicken works best for slow cooking but your regular grocery chicken will do. The ginger and labuyo both provide two different but complimentary layers of heat to this dish. The onion adds a bit of sweetness as it caramelizes slowly. The famous local patis wraps the local identity boldly all over it. And the chicken liver in the sauce, well, it is just their cruel way of making you ask for extra rice. Talunang manok, in my opinion, should also be up there as a classic Filipino dish. It's a perfect example of how an understanding of flavors can produce a dish worthy of the Filipino dining table. One doesn’t need too many ingredients to produce a dish with layers of surprises and flavors to make it memorable. Try it and taste what I mean. To paraphrase a favorite author, Jeanette Winterson, sometimes the measure of love is loss. This ‘loser’ is definitely a winner at the dinner table.

Talunang Manok Makes 3-4 servings 3 Tbsps 1 1-2 inch 1 4-5 pcs 2 Tbsps 1 cup 2-3

Vegetable oil Large red onion, rough dice Ginger, sliced into strips Whole chicken, cut into serving portions Whole chicken liver Atsuete oil •Patis, to taste Water Bird’s eye chilies (siling labuyo)

1. In a pot, sauté onions in vegetable oil until translucent. Add ginger and continue sautéing until fragrant. 2. Increase the heat then add chicken. Flip the chicken occasionally and continue cooking until browned. 3. Lower the heat then add liver, atsuete oil, and patis. Continue mixing the ingredients to distribute the newly added ingredients evenly. Cover and continue cooking for five minutes. 4. Add water and continue simmering the chicken until cooked. Add a little bit more as needed. 5. Reduce the liquid to a sauce. Mash some of the liver to enrich it. Add the labuyo when almost done. Remove from heat and serve hot with rice.

Giney Villar graduated from the American Hospitality A Academy (AHA) and is a Certified Executive Chef (CEC) of the American Culinary Federation (ACF). Her main areas of culinary interest are historical, regional, indigenous and heirloom cuisine. She's been to all the markets of every place she has ever visited. For more of her market discoveries visit sliverword.wordpress.com.


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T H E H E A LT H Y P L AT E

Vegetarian Upgrades Put a healthy twist on these regional vegetable dishes Words and recipes by Chef Barni Alejandro-Rennebeck Photographed by Miguel Abesamis of Studio 100 Art direction and food styling by Angeli De Rivera

DURING MY STAY IN VIGAN, I TRIED A FLAVORFUL VEGETABLE DISH CALLED POQUI POQUI. This funny sounding Ilokano staple is traditionally made with eggplant, tomatoes, onions, and eggs. It‘s not the prettiest dish to look at but boy, is it delicious. I enjoyed eating poqui poqui with a mound of piping hot rice and a splash of sukang Iloko. It's hard to believe that something so simple could taste so good. To quote Anthony Bourdain, “Good food is very often, even most often, simple food.” The humble poqui poqui is loaded with essential nutrients from the vegetables it is traditionally cooked with. Eggplants are a good source of dietary fiber, potassium, and vitamin C, while the tomatoes help prevent heart disease, diabetes, and cancer. To make the dish more colorful and nutritious, I added some spinach leaves, which contain disease-fighting antioxidants and vitamins A, C, and K. Another Filipino comfort food I “healthy-fied” is Bicol Express. I swapped the traditional fatty pieces of pork in the recipe with tofu. Tofu is an excellent plant-based substitute for meat. It’s cholesterol-free, low in calories, and a good source of protein, calcium, and iron. Bicol Express though is simply not complete without bagoong. To keep the recipe vegan, I substituted the bagoong with tausi or fermented soybeans. The salty and pungent flavor of tausi makes it the perfect replacement for bagoong in recipes.

G R O C E RY T I P *Carp vegan v gan pa veg patis is your vegan or vegetarian alternative to fish sauce since it is made of soya beans, salt, and flour. It’s available in groceries and supermarkets.

Poqui-poqui with Spinach Makes 4 servings 4 medium 2 Tbsps ¼ cup 2 tsp 1 cup 1 cup ¼ tsp ⅛ tsp 4 ¼ cup

Vegan Bicol Express Makes 3 servings 3 Tbsps 1 block ¼ cup 1 tsp 2 tsps ½ cup ½ cup 1 Tbsp

Refined coconut oil, divided Firm tofu, sliced into cubes Chopped onions Chopped ginger Chopped garlic Coconut milk Coconut cream Canned tausi, rinsed and pounded into a paste 1 cup Green beans, sliced diagonally into 1-inch lengths, then blanched 1 cup Sigarilyas, sliced diagonally into 1-inch lengths, then blanched 3 Finger chilies, seeds removed and sliced diagonally in half

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2 tsps 1-2

Carp vegan patis* (optional) Bird’s eye chilies, seeds removed and chopped (optional)

1. In a non-stick skillet, heat two tablespoons of refined coconut oil. Pan-fry the tofu cubes until crisp and golden. Drain on paper towels and set aside. 2. In the same skillet, add the remaining oil. Sauté the onions, ginger, and garlic until soft and fragrant. Add the coconut milk, coconut cream, and tausi paste. Stir for a minute until well combined. 3. Add the green beans, sigarilyas, finger chilies, and vegan patis. Simmer for 3-5 minutes. Garnish with bird’s eye chilies then remove from heat. Serve immediately.

Eggplants Olive oil Chopped red onions Chopped garlic Chopped tomatoes Spinach leaves, shredded Salt Black pepper Eggs, beaten Chopped spring onions

1. Pierce the eggplants with a fork and roast directly on a gas stove over an open flame until the skin is charred. Allow eggplants to cool and peel off the skin. Coarsely chop the flesh and set aside. 2. In a non-stick skillet, heat the olive oil. Sauté the onion and garlic until fragrant. Add the tomatoes and cook until soft. 3. Stir in the spinach leaves and cook just until they turn bright green. Add the eggplant and season with salt and pepper. Add the beaten eggs, stirring the mixture continuously until the eggs are set. 4. Garnish with spring onions then remove from heat. Serve immediately with hot rice and a sukang Iloko dip.


Peel roasted eggplants with ease by placing hot grilled eggplants in a plastic bag for five minutes. The steam will loosen the skins.

When it comes to food, Chef Barni AlejandroRennebeck believes you can have your cake and eat it too. Nothing brings her more joy than being able to transform everyday dishes into healthier fare. Rice, pizza, burgers—no dish is off limits on her diet since every ingredient can be creatively substituted or "healthified." For more information about The Sexy Chef, visit thesexychef.ph.

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R E C I P E 911

Team Building Whoever said too many cooks spoil the broth hasn’t tasted this Sinampalukang Manok Words by Ann Kuy Photographed by Ron Mendoza of Studio 100 Art direction by Yllaine Sabenecio Shot at Global Culinary and Hospitality Academy, Pasig

SINAMPALUKANG MANOK IS DAILY FARE IN CHEF LEA CEDENO’S HOUSEHOLD. This heirloom recipe from her mother is such a treat that it became so popular when it got featured in an online cooking channel. This was also the reason why Chef Lea chose this special dish to teach for the day’s group lesson. Cooking students Laila, Jackie, Arienne, and Jimbo are a close-knit group in their workplace. The team loves traveling and cooking meals together yet the latter activity has always been a challenge. Chef Lea gave each one a task to make the cooking lesson a fun group experience. Here, they learned that the easiest way to peel a ginger is by using a spoon. Next, the lemongrass bulbs were pounded with the back of the knife to release its flavor. They also realized that preparing the ingredients ahead of time (mis en place) makes the cooking process much easier. “For this recipe Chef Lea emphasized proper timing when it comes to adding the ingredients. We had to cook the chicken first and the vegetables have to be added last to avoid overcooking," they shared. With each member doing their assigned task, cooking Sinampalukang Manok was a breeze.

Sinampalukang Manok Makes 4 servings 10-12 pcs 1 cup 3 Tbsps 1 3 Tbsps 1 thumbsize 1 kilo 2-3 Tbsps 3 bulbs 4-5 cups 1 cup 1 cup

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Fresh tamarind or 4 Tbsps Tamarind base powder Water Cooking Oil Onion, chopped Chopped garlic Ginger, sliced into thin strips Whole chicken, cut into pieces Fish sauce t1FQQFS UP TFBTPO Lemongrass, bulbs pounded Chicken stock or water String beans (sitaw), cut 2-inches long Fresh young tamarind leaves, optional or dahon ng sili

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Students of the Day Laila Rena Acla, Jackie Lyn Ludovice, Arienne Co, & John Jimbo Bernardo Occupation Human Resource Specialists Team for an international software company Challenge Working as a team in the kitchen Chef Instructor Chef Lea Ariann Cedeño

1. Prepare the tamarind juice. In a small pot, add the fresh tamarind and add water. Boil until cooked and soft. Mash the pulp with a fine sieve. Strain to remove the skin and seeds. Set the juice aside. 2. In a big pot, heat the oil and sauté the onion, garlic, and ginger strips until fragrant. Add in the chicken pieces and pan fry in the aromatics. Season with fish sauce and pepper. Add the lemongrass bulbs and sauté with the chicken. 3. Add in the chicken stock or water and let simmer for 20-30 minutes. Skim off any scum that flows on top. 4. Mix in the string beans and cook for three minutes. Pour in the tamarind juice or tamarind base powder. Adjust the seasoning then mix in the tamarind leaves. Simmer for two minutes more. Serve hot.

Ann Kuy has been her family’s cuisinera for 15 years now. The discriminating tastes of her husband and three girls keep her on her toes as she hunts for new recipes and perfect ingredients. She’s a trained culinary graduate who indulges her love for food through travels, Saturday cook-offs, hole-in-the-wall affairs and writing. She’s been a professional food writer for various publications since 2002.


Looking for a nomeat dish? Try this recipe with mayamaya or lapu-lapu.

WatchAppetite.ph | August 2016

39


JR. CHEF

Seeing Red The classic chicken inasal gets a taco treatment Words by Sofia Pardo de Ayala Recipe by Chef David Pardo de Ayala Special thanks to Nella Rodriguez Photographed by Floyd Jhocson of Studio 100 Art direction by Yllaine Sabenecio and Clarrys de Guia

TWO YEARS AGO, TOGETHER WITH OUR PARENTS, MY FRIENDS AND I WENT TO WATCH THE PHILIPPINE INTERNATIONAL PYROMUSICAL COMPETITION. There’s a row of restaurants on the second floor of Mall of Asia that has a good view of Manila Bay, and we were lucky that one of these restaurants was Sarsa Kitchen. One of the owners, Chef JP Anglo, is a friend of my Papi, and he was able to set us up on the balcony. Our parents were happy with the food while we kids were blown away by the beautiful fireworks! Almost everything on the menu was unfamiliar to me, except the adobo flakes, so I ordered it. But I sure remember that it was the first time I tasted chicken inasal. It was yummy! I didn't dip it in any sauce because it was already flavorful on its own and had a pretty color. So, when we were thinking about what recipe to share for this issue, I asked my Papi if we could make chicken inasal! To make it different, he decided to make a taco version, and carefully chose ingredients that are Filipino, but still follow the typical composition of an authentic taco.

Chicken Inasal Tacos Makes 4 servings

4. Grill the chicken, preferably over charcoal. Baste generously with the sauce while grilling until cooked through. Set aside.

CHICKEN INASAL Whole deboned chicken, cut 1 into 2 legs and 2 half breast with wing

SALSA ½ cup 1 cup 4

MARINADE Garlic, minced 6 cloves Calamansi juice ¼ cup Lemongrass 4 bulbs Coconut vinegar ¼ cup Salt 1 Tbsp Pepper ½ tsp BASTING SAUCE ½ cup Vegetable oil ¼ cup Annatto seeds ¼ cup Margarine 6 cloves Garlic, minced

¼ cup

2. To make the basting sauce, heat vegetable oil over medium fire. Add annatto seeds and remove from the fire. 3. Drain after two minutes. Combine annatto oil with margarine and garlic.

1. Heat up soft tortilla shells in the microwave for 30 seconds or put it in a

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2. Lay the warm tortilla on a plate and start building your tacos. Start with the lettuce then the sliced chicken inasal, a spoonful of salsa, grated kesong puti, bits of chicken skin chicharon then finish of with some cilantro. Serve immediately.

Combine soy sauce, vinegar, and siling labuyo and allow it to sit for at least 30 minutes. You may lessen or add more siling labuyo depending on your preferred heat level. Toss onions, tomatoes, and cilantro with a portion of the sauce right before serving. ASSEMBLY Soft tortillas 12 Iceberg lettuce, thinly sliced 1 head •Chicken inasal, grilled and sliced Salsa 2 cups Kesong puti, grated 1 cup Chicken skin chicharon, ½ cup chopped •Sprigs of fresh cilantro

1. Combine all ingredients for the marinade in a bowl. Massage chicken with the marinade, cover, and set aside to marinate for at least an hour and a half.

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2 3

Soy sauce Coconut vinegar Bird’s eyes chilies (siling labuyo), deseeded and sliced Onions, cut into small dice Tagaytay tomatoes, cut into small dice Fresh cilantro, roughly chopped

preheated pan and heat it up for 10-15 seconds.

Sofia Pardo de Ayala started showing interest in cooking at age 2. Her first kitchen adventures involved ready-made cookie mixes, pancakes and muffins. Together with her Papi Chef David, they made cooking videos that were meant to indulge her dream to "be in the iPad" and to share with family abroad. Watch her videos on YouTube: Baby Chef Sofia


Avoiding A Av vo oiid diingg rice? ric ice? e? Try this avorpacked lean meat and veggie wrap

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HOMECOOK ONLINE

Crab Tales Making this seafood dish might take some extra effort but the rewards are delicious Words, photos, and styling by Marie Villanueva-Pascual Illustrations by Paulus Silva

MAKING OUR WAY BACK TO OUR BATANGAS ROOTS EVERY SUMMER WAS A TRADITION MY PARENTS UPHELD, LOBO ON MY FATHER’S SIDE AND LEMERY ON MY MOTHER’S. One of the greatest perks of staying connected to your parents’ provincial roots was watching them cook food the traditional way. It was such a joy to watch how the neighbors would get together to prepare large batches of food. One did the cleaning, the other the cooking, and another did the washing. It could be as simple as a one-pot meal or as huge as a “kawa” of ulam for big gatherings. Rellenong alimasag was a treat for the apos like us who loved crabs but as kids did not have the dexterity to extract all the crab meat and its goodness. With added

vegetables for heft, it was a way to extend the supply and make sure each child had his fair share. This dish conjures one of those vivid memories I have where the lolas and the spinster aunts would remove succulent, flakey, sweet sea-salty meat from fresh crabs bought early in the day at the wet market. They did this over stories and laughter around the kitchen table, expertly pulling out every morsel, “hanggang sa kaliit-liitang sipit.” It was a kitchen assembly line of love and happiness. One aunt would sauté the garlic, onions, vegetables, and crab meat; while another would gingerly spoon the mixture in the shells, and finally another would fry it to cook through. Once the stuffed crab hits the pan of oil, it puffs up— hence the name “binusog na alimasag”.

Rellenong Alimasag H OW TO C L E A N C R A B S H E L L S

Makes 4 servings 8 Medium-size blue crabs (alimasag) 1 Tbsp Cooking oil 1 clove Garlic, finely chopped 1 Small red onion, finely chopped ⅛ cup Finely chopped carrots ⅛ cup Fnely chopped potatoes or singkamas ¼ cup Water 1 Large egg, beaten 1-2 Tbsps All-purpose flour •Salt and pepper, to season •Cooking oil, for deep-frying 1. First, steam the crabs. Extract the crab meat from all the crabs and set aside. The rule of thumb is 2 crabs is to 1 shell. Set aside four crab shells and clean them thoroughly.

Scoop out the insides and make sure no membrane is left.

Brush the outer shell to remove any scum or dirt and rinse under running water.

Let it drip dry on a rack or under the sun.

2. Heat cooking oil in a non-stick pan over medium heat and sauté garlic and onions 3. Add carrots and potatoes or singkamas and stir for a few seconds. Add water and stir until liquid evaporates. When vegetables are cooked, remove from the heat and set aside. 4. In a mixing bowl, add the reserved crabmeat, cooled sautéed vegetables, beaten egg, and flour. Mix until wellcombined. Season with salt and pepper. 5. Stuff the filling into the crab shells then deep-fry for about five minutes or until filling is golden in color. Serve immediately.

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Marie Villanueva-Pascual pursues her love for food and entertaining by opening her home to private dining. She has made many tummies happy by hosting “Boodle Fight Feasts” and “Breakfast Pilipinas” in her cozy lanai. For inquiries and reservations, contact her at (0917) 516-2743. Visit www.facebook.com/ kitchenkitchiekoo or email kitchen.kitchie.koo@ gmail.com.


Serve rellenong alimasag with banana or tomato catsup

WatchAppetite.ph | August 2016

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THE SUITE LIFE

Adult Whims Warm up to these chicken soups for a grown-up soul Recipes, photos, and styling by Idda Aguilar

ADULTING. Such a popular term used nowadays to describe the grown-up activities we need to do on a daily basis—from going to work to paying the bills; from cooking your meals to picking up the kids. All these responsibilities you never thought of doing when you were a kid, and then, you find yourself waking up to one day having to face all these, all at once. Ah, adulting—what a perfect word to describe my life now. There is a certain joy in having this freedom, but there are also days when you reminisce about your early memories of home. From the familial gatherings and constant care, these are some of the things you yearn for from childhood. It’s also the expectation where chicken arroz caldo and chicken tinola are readily cooked especially when someone in the house is nursing a fever. These are the meals that soothe my soul and stomach, knowing they were prepared straight from the heart every single time. It’s now my turn to feed these to my family and they are perfect for dinners after long days, rainy days, sick days, or actually any kind of day. I like making these with my family’s choice of chicken cuts to make a complete meal, but feel free to use whatever you have on-hand. Also, it’s not that hard to make arroz caldo and tinola, so you don’t have to wait until somebody gets sick! My arroz caldo is fortified with multi-grain rice and the goodness of bacon, which adds a chewy texture and rustic saltiness to this complete one-dish meal. For the chicken tinola recipe, I use hugas-bigas or rice washing for the soup. It adds a little more depth to the soup base compared to using regular water. Aside from that, adding lemongrass to the tinola not only ups the nutritional value, but also puts a layer of sweet aroma. Serve it with steamed rice cooked with pandan leaves and I’m sure your loved ones will store it in their core memory forever. Try these recipes and embrace the adult life. There’s no escaping it, so just enjoy and make the most out of it! Have a happy life!

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Chicken and Bacon Arroz Caldo Makes 2-3 servings 100g 2 Tbsps 1 head + 3 cloves 1 1 thumbsize 6 1 ½ cups 1 Tbsp 1 tsp 6 cups 1

Bacon, diced Vegetable oil, divided Garlic, minced Onion, chopped Ginger, peeled and sliced thinly Chicken wings, excess skin removed Uncooked multi-grain rice Fish sauce (patis) Safflower (kasubha) Water Chicken broth cube •Fish sauce (patis) and freshly ground pepper, to season

TOPPINGS 1 tsp Fried garlic bits ¼ cup Chopped spring onions •Calamansi slices •Kasubha (optional) 1. In a large steel pot, cook the bacon in a tablespoon of vegetable oil until crisp. Remove from pan and drain on paper towels. Set aside. In the same pot, cook the head of garlic until light brown. Remove from pan. Set aside. 2. Fry the remaining garlic and ginger in a tablespoon of oil until fragrant. Add the onion and cook until translucent. Add the chicken wings and fry until lightly browned on both sides. Add the uncooked rice, fish sauce, and kasubha. Mix and fry for another 2-3 minutes. 3. Add the water and chicken broth cube. Cover pot. Once boiling, lower the heat and simmer for 30-45 minutes or until the rice and chicken are cooked through. Season with patis and freshly ground pepper. Transfer arroz caldo into individual bowls and add topping. Serve with calamansi slices.

Chicken Tinola sa Tanglad Makes 3-4 servings 1 Tbsp 4 cloves 1 thumbsize 1 6 1 Tbsp 6-7 cups 3 stalks 1 tsp

1 1

2 cups 2 cups

Vegetable oil Garlic, minced Ginger, peeled and thinly sliced Onion, chopped Chicken leg quarters, trimmed and excess skin removed Fish sauce (patis) Rice washing (hugas bigas) Lemongrass, green parts removed, bulbs pounded Black peppercorns •Dash of freshly ground black pepper •Dash of turmeric powder Chicken broth cube Green papaya, sliced •Fish sauce (patis) and freshly ground black pepper Malunggay leaves Chili leaves (dahon ng sili)

1. In a large pot over medium-high heat, fry the garlic and ginger in vegetable oil until light brown. Add onion and cook until translucent. 2. Add the chicken and fry until lightly browned on both sides. Add the fish sauce, rice washing, lemongrass, peppercorns, freshly ground pepper, turmeric powder, and chicken cube then bring to a boil. Once boiling, lower heat and simmer covered for 30 minutes or until chicken is cooked through. 3. In the last ten minutes of cooking, add the papaya and cook until softened. Season to taste with fish sauce and freshly ground pepper. Add the malunggay and dahon ng sili, turn off heat, and cover for five minutes. Serve hot with rice and patis on the side.


Multi-grain rice is a combination of locally sourced wholegrain brown, red, purple, and sometimes even black rice variants, mixed together for a powerpacked punch. You can ďŹ nd it in your local supermarkets.

Idda Aguilar is a master multi-tasker. Her daily life consists of rushing to and from work as a broadcast producer. While running her household and raising two mischievous little girls, she cooks breakfast, lunch, dinner, and always makes room for dessert. She’s taking the recipes she grew up with and making them her own in the small kitchen of her apartment. See more of her dishes at thecondochef.tumblr.com

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JUST DESSERTS

White Knight Delight in the coconut and its many forms Recipe by Chef Carlo Estagle and Chef Patty Loanzon Photographed by John Ocampo of Studio 100 Art direction by Regine Paola Velilla

CHEF CARLO AND I BOTH CAME FROM ADVERTISING BEFORE WE SHIFTED TO CULINARY, BUT OUR PATHS NEVER CROSSED WHEN WE WERE WORKING IN THE INDUSTRY. We met at the Heny Sison School as teachers, and it was there where we realized that we had more things in common. We shared ideas and concepts, even gamely

Coconut Rum Cake Makes 1 bundt cake CAKE MIX 1 ½ cup Unsalted butter, cubed, at room temperature plus more for greasing 2 cups Sifted cake flour, plus more for dusting 1 ½ cups Granulated sugar ¼ cup Franklin Baker white desiccated coconut 4 tsps Baking powder 1 tsp Salt 3 Tbsps Extra virgin coconut oil CAKE MIX 2 1 (85g) box Jello (or any other brand) pudding mix ½ cup Evaporated milk 4 Large eggs ½ cup Coconut rum ½ cup Extra virgin coconut oil 1 tsp Vanilla extract 1. Generously grease a bundt pan. Make sure to grease all the corners and curves. Dust well with flour. 2. Combine the sugar and dry ingredients of Cake Mix 1 into a bowl and whisk together until thoroughly combined. Bring the bowl to a mixer and with a paddle at low, add the butter and oil. Blend slowly, increasing the speed to medium until the mixture resembles cornmeal. Set aside.

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discussed philosophies (we went to the same university!), shared learnings, and supported each other’s classes. That was how we became partners. Coconut is one of the things we both got into, especially when coconut made its way to the international scene and information regarding its health benefits emerged in the internet. We both love food but we are also concerned with our physical well-being so we use our knowledge to meet that demand. We are both believers in the benefits of taking extra virgin coconut oil and have taken it in various forms, straight or mixed in smoothies, soups, or salad dressings. I’m proud to know that the Philippines is a top coconut producer. Based on research, the oldest known coconut company in the country is Franklin Baker Company of the Philippines which was established in 1926 by Baker and his son in San Pablo, Laguna. It opened two more plantations—with the biggest one now in Davao. They are one of the leading exporters of virgin coconut oil, desiccated coconut, and coconut

sugar among other product derivatives. Interestingly, we didn’t know about Franklin Baker until a bag of wonderfully sweetened soft desiccated coconut was opened in school a few years back. It was so unlike what we we’ve been using before. It was moist and delicately sweetened with a slight crunch on the outside with a tender bite on the inside. It did not take long for us to think of ways to include this wonder food in various forms in our recipes. Together, we have used flour, sugar, extra virgin oil, fractionated oil, milk, cream, and desiccated coconut. Rum cakes have come and gone, but no one has actually used coconut as a flavoring for rum cake. We supplied this cake to a small coffee shop that has since closed to make way for a bigger venture. The coconut oil not only highlighted its flavor notes with the coconut rum but it also keeps the cake moist longer. Hurray for the Philippines and for the coconut farmers all over the country on the rebirth of what is now internationally known as the Philippine’s Tree of Life.

3. In a separate bowl, combine all the ingredients of Cake Mix 2 and whisk gently to combine well.

about four hours or overnight. Unmold the cake only when it has completely cooled, especially when using the intricate bundt pans. Serve with a hot beverage.

4. With a mixer set at medium low speed, add the liquid slowly into Cake Mix 1 allowing the two mixtures to blend. Slowly raise the mixing speed to medium, intermittently stopping the machine to scrape the bottom with a spatula and making sure that everything is incorporated into a smooth mixture. There is a tendency for the first mixture to settle at the bottom so mix well. Note that the batter will be runny.

BAKING TIP The finished cake will shrink from the sides of the pan as it cools. To prevent the cake from sticking to the pan, unmold only when it has cooled completely.

5. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake in the preheated 325°F oven for about 45 minutes. Check the center with a cake tester to make sure the cake is done. Remove from the oven to rest while preparing the rum soak. RUM SOAK ½ cup ¼ cup 1 cup ½ cup

Unsalted butter Water Granulated sugar Coconut rum

Combine the butter, water, and sugar in a saucepot and bring to a boil stirring to make sure the sugar has completely dissolved. Turn off the heat and stir to cool slightly before adding the rum. ASSEMBLY While the cake is still warm, pour the syrup over the cake and allow it to be absorbed for

Patty Loanzon and Carlo Estagle are Heny Sison Culinary School Silver Spoon awardees and were both asked to return and teach. Together Patty and Carlo fondly call themselves Petite Cuisine (P&C). They help out friends with the occasional consultancy, catering, dessert, and cake orders.


Add a citrus avor to this cake! Make a glaze by combining powdered sugar and lemon juice, then drizzle it over. The sweet-sour glaze helps cut the richness of the Coconut Rum Cake.

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tF O O D B E AT

Ginto Luxury Chocolates Words by Angeli De Rivera Photographed by Floyd Jhocson of Studio 100 and Regine Paola Velilla

DALAREICH POLOT’S LOLA BELIEVED THAT HER GRANDDAUGHTER WAS DESTINED FOR GREAT THINGS. And her grandmother was right. At such a young age, Dalareich has already amassed so many achievements. She received a full scholarship into one of the country’s top entrepreneurial university programs. In 2013, she won the grand prize for the Young Women Entrepreneur Bootcamp sponsored by the U.ttS Embassy and SPARK Philippines. The next year, she applied and was granted a full scholarship to study chocolate-making in Belgium’s prestigious Ghent University. All this happened while helping run her family’s business, Dalareich Tableya, with marketing and product development while running her own IT company. It was during her chocolate training in Europe when she realized how very valuable our country’s local cacao is. “Tableya is 100% chocolate since it’s just ground cacao and we sell it here (in the Philippines) at an affordable price,” Dalareich explains, “but in Europe or in any other chocolate manufacturing country, that already costs a lot of money! That means we haven’t been maximizing our potential (in chocolate)!” The girl from the land of the Chocolate Hills was motivated more than ever to make Philippine chocolates, or rather, Boholano chocolates the best in the world. Using her family background in producing tableya and her newfound knowledge and skills in chocolate making, Dalareich created the first bean to bar chocolate products made in Bohol under her own brand, Ginto Luxury Chocolates. As the head chocolatier, Dalareich makes sure that each micro batch is made with the highest quality. Her line has three products to date: Oro, where she uses 75% dark chocolate to make mint, coconut, or chili-flavored chocolate bars; Pilak, a set of pralines inspired by local flavors like dulce de leche, tamarind, as well as chili and cinnamon; and Joya, where she coats cacao nibs with Ginto chocolates. They even do limited edition chocolate collections and customized chocolates for special occasions. Dalareich’s handcrafted artisanal chocolates have already

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found their way to several establishments in Bohol and are also available online. Right now, Dalareich is focused on perfecting her chocolate craft, and in doing more research on how to elevate cacao farming and the chocolate industry in the Philippines. With so many accomplishments under her belt, and such a passion for her work, there’s no stopping this lucky young girl named Dalareich from reaching her dreams. What an amazing feat for someone who is, unfortunately, allergic to chocolates.

FOR INQUIRIES AND F O ORDERS CALL (0918) 4 419-0542, (0939) 9023462. EMAIL INFO@ GINTOCHOCOLATES.COM


Mowie’s Words by Yllaine Sabenecio Photographed by Floyd Jhocson of Studio 100 Art direction by Regine Paola Velilla

AT SUCH A YOUNG AGE, DLSU BUSINESS MANAGEMENT STUDENT MOWIE FERNANDEZ HAS ALREADY FOUND A BUSINESS HE’S PASSIONATE ABOUT WHILE EARNING EXTRA ON THE SIDE. Because of a shift in his university’s academic calendar last year, Mowie suddenly found himself with a fourmonth vacation on his hands. While waiting for responses for his internship applications, his mom suggested that he attend different seminars at the TESDA institution. Eventually he took up a meatprocessing seminar where he learned how

to make longganisa, tocino, ham, and other cured meat products. Armed with his newfound knowledge and his background in business, he decided to shell out money from his own savings and make longganisa, his favorite breakfast food. “I am a fan of longganisa talaga. If I have to choose between longganisa, tocino, or ham, I will always go for longganisa,” Mowie shares. After several attempts in the kitchen, he gave out free longganisa samples to different people and adjusted the recipe accordingly from the feedback. His business then casually started with people calling to order until orders came up to big batches— all without a brand name yet. It was in December of last year when he decided to formally introduce his products to the market. He thought of different names for his brand until he finally decided to name his business after his own nickname. Mowie is already unique and perfect and people already associate him with the longganisa.

Aside from his bestseller, the pork longganisa, Mowie’s also offers chicken longganisa as a healthier alternative. His current focus now may be his longganisa line but Mowie plans to slowly expand his product list with the addition of tocino and other meat products. After his graduation, he intends to consign with small eateries and restaurants. He is also trying to sell his products to students living in the condominiums near his university, most of whom are always on the lookout for quick home-cooked meals. Mowie has proven that no one is ever too young to pursue their dreams. By sharing his love for longganisa, he finally found a business he certainly loves—one he aspires to expand more in the future.

FOR LONGGANISA ORDERS CONTACT MOWIE’S AT (0906) 454-3037

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INSIDER

The

Caviteño Cookbook designer, writer, typographer, and historian Ige Ramos is Cavite’s no. 1 foodie As told to Nina Daza-Puyat Photos by Stanley Ong

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The main ingredients in a typical Cavite kakanin are what I call the “crops of oppression”: rice, coconut, and sugar. From distinctive kakanins to tinapa, patis made from alamang and thick rice noodles that are made fresh everyday. They are only some of the everyday food that the locals eat and enjoy. Salinas tinapa made by Josie Fajardo sold at the Cavite City Public Market

You’ve been working on your book about Cavite for quite awhile now. How many years have you been doing research for it? I’ve been working on my book, Alab ng Puso: Kwentong Pakain at Kinagisnang Lutuin ng Cavite, for about ten years now and every time I go back, I always find something new to write about. With regards to what Cavite has contributed to the food landscape in the Philippines, what are you proudest of as a Caviteño? Quesillo. Kesong puti, made from carabao’s milk; Tamales, made with galapong and ground peanut cooked in achuete, it also comes with sliced egg, liempo, chicken and garbanzos; Bibingkoy, bilo-bilo stuffed with sweet munggo, cooked bibingka-style and served with sweet guinataan; Bibingka Samala. The classic pasalubong of every Caviteño to their nonCaviteño friends Digman and also used as halo-halo of Bacoor, a pamamanhikan Cavite present;

Pancit de Carajay, also known as pancit puso, because the souring agent used for the pancit is kilawin na puso ng saging (banana blossom cooked in vinegar); Pancit Choko en su Tinta or commonly known as pancit pusit, where the squid ink is used to flavor the noodles and color it black; Bacalao, from Cavite City. People are bacalaocrazy during Good Friday. All households would be making bacalao to pass on to neighbors and relatives. The price of the genuine bacalao or the dried salted cod is so prohibitive that the Caviteños substitute dried labahita (surgeon fish) to make the dish. Name some towns in Cavite that are known for regional dishes that are unique or may not be known as mainstream Filipino food. Cavite City and notably the district of San Roque is the center of the culinary activity because of its proximity to Cavite, el Puerto and Porta Vaga, the dry dock operations of the Galleon Trade, during the Spanish colonial period and eventually during the American Occupation, when Sangley Point was established. San Roque is also where the market is located. Notable also are the coastal towns of Cavite like Bacoor, Kawit, Noveleta, Rosario, Tanza, and Naic where they have unique dishes where the ingredients are foraged, salted, brined, fermented, and smoked.

Cavite figured in many historical events in the past. From among the colonizers in the Philippines, which group has had the strongest influence on Cavite’s culinary culture? It is very easy to say that the strongest influence would be Spanish, but if you look deeper, in terms of cooking method, ingredients and names of the dishes, the influence is clearly Hokkien, Malay, Indian, and Mexican. The Spanish and the American influences are just the veneer and finishing touches. Can you describe the various terroir in Cavite and how this dictates what kind of food is produced by each area? Cavite is divided into three distinctive topographical areas: The Coastal, the Midlands, and the Highlands. In the coastal area, you will find ingredients associated with the fishing industry, the talaba and tahong farms, the places where they produce tinapa and bagoong and the bakawan (mangroves) and irasan (salt beds). The Midlands is where the rice fields, coconut groves, and the sugar plantations are found, while the Highlands is where coffee, cocoa, fruits, and vegetables come from. There are many kinds of kakanin all over the Philippines. What are the kakanins that are unique to the Caviteños? The main ingredients in a typical Cavite kakanin are what I call the “crops of oppression”: rice, coconut, and sugar. The entire province of Cavite was subdivided into haciendas and managed by the friars coming from the different orders of Roman Catholic church. The encomienda

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INSIDER Robinson's Tamales of Cavite City

quite evident. This is one reason why home-cooked Cavite food remained unheard of in other provinces, especially in Metro Manila, considering it’s just next door.

Salt-making tradition continues at Sta. Isabel, Kawit, Cavite

with sweet monggo. Sinusod, a crêpe made from galapong (rice flour) mixed with bahaw (day-old, fermented rice) ground together to produce a batter. Once the crêpe is cooked, it is sliced and placed in a bowl, mixed with strips of buko, buko juice, gata (coconut milk), sugar, gulaman, and ice, which is then served as a refreshing merienda or dessert.

Kalamay Buna

system was practiced widely during the Spanish colonial period and the paying of tributes to the clergy and the officials was the accepted practice. There was so much oppression and hunger. So the ingredients that were left with the people, they made into kakanin. The most notable kakanins are Kalamay Buna, a flat disc made with panocha and buko. Alikaya, made with sticky pirurutong or purple rice. Muche, rice flour mixed with achuete and filled

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During town fiestas in Cavite, what kind of spread would be found on the table? Fiestas in Cavite City have been celebrated for centuries. In the olden days, a long-time tradition called kumbira is practiced, wherein cooks and their helpers coming from a clan, or from outlying towns, would cook for well-heeled families or for the parish priest during the bisperas or the day before the fiesta. Caviteños pride themselves in serving the best seafood during fiesta and the usual fiesta fare like morcon, mechado, lengua estofada, valenciana and lechon. For dessert, leche flan, halayang ube, sweetened macapuno, and garbanzos have a special place on the table. As there’s no tradition of “food for the rich or food for the poor” existing in Cavite, the distinction between “food served for the guests” and food served at home” is

What are some of the strange or unusual eating habits of the Cavitenos? We are a bunch of conservative eaters in Cavite. We love our meals to be ternoterno. For example, on Sundays, we serve Kare-kare at home, but never by itself. There should be Chicken and Pork Adobo, Kilawin Papaya, and mangga at bagoong on the side. Otherwise, the meal is not complete. The pairing doesn’t stop there. On regular days, if the ulam is plain pritong galunggong, don’t fret; it normally comes with “paltitos de condimentos” or little plates of acharang papaya, sayote and ampalaya, ensalada or salsa, a mixture of chopped tomato, garlic, onion, and salted duck’s egg or at lean times, burong labanos, burong mustasa, or green mango with bagoong. On Fridays, the pairing would be guinisang monggo and pritong isda. On regular days, sinigang na hipon is paired with pritong lumpia. Sinampalukang manok’s partner is inihaw na baboy, either liempo or pork chop. And the strangest pairing of all is paksiw na lechon and tuyong lawlaw or tunsoy—the saltiness of the tuyo complements with the sweet, sour and savory taste of the pebre (salsa ng lechon) to make the paksiw. In a nutshell, what do you want the Filipinos and the rest of the world, to know about the province of Cavite? “Kung walang Cavite, walang Republika.”

WHAT’S THE FASTEST WAY TO GET TO CAVITE? TO VISIT CAVITE IT'S BEST TO TAKE EDSA SOUTHBOUND, TOWARDS ROXAS AND MACAPAGAL BOULEVARDS AND TAKE CAVITEX. CAVITEX IS THE FASTEST GATEWAY TO THE UNDISCOVERED CULINARY DESTINATIONS OF CAVITE. TAKE THE KAWIT EXIT AND FROM THERE YOU CAN VISIT CAVITE'S FOOD TREASURES


DINING

AUGUST 2016

PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOHN OCAMPO OF STUDIO 100

We found the best new Filipino restaurants in town. Catch up on the places where you can have a Filipino buffet on a budget, get a taste of the Kapampangan camaru, and be at the center of Manila's revival.

The Cebuano word “hukad,” as a verb, means “to serve.” As a noun, it means “ladle” or a shovel spoon used to transfer food. This is how Hukad sa Golden Cowrie fills up their guests with their unlimited steaming rice


DINING | Braska

Hip Heritage Food A revolution is happening in Manila, and new restaurant Braska is in the center of the action Words by Ceej Tantengco Photographed by Ed Simon of Studio 100

MANILA—ONCE hear her passion for local ingredients when PATTERNED AFTER she talks. “During my thesis research, WASHINGTON D.C. I found that our cashew industry is dying. and called the “Pearl of The Philippines used to export, but now the Orient” by early 1900s people prefer cashews from Indonesia. So I newspapers, has spent much wanted to showcase local ingredients and of the post-World War II era support local growers,” she says. falling into cycles of development Braska operates on the ground floor of and disrepair. It was home to high-powered Amélie Hotel—the French film is the favorite businessmen and diplomats until they of Mark’s wife Giselle, and they named their moved to Makati; a bohemian haunt until daughter after the quirky lead character. The local government cracked down on nightlife. couple lived in America before coming home But these days, the capitol city is having a to the Philippines, and Mark says the key to renaissance. appreciating Manila is a matter of perspective. A growing spoken word scene, old “If you get a general consensus of people buildings being saved from demolition by [from Manila], they don’t have the best things young creatives, start-ups like the bamboo to say about their city. But there are things to bike tours going around Intramuros—and cultivate, like the offices in El Hogar and the new restaurants like Braska, serving Filipino vibrant subcultures,” explains Mark. comfort food made with local ingredients. “When we have foreign guests at the hotel, “We wanted to do something that’s it’s because they make a conscious decision to familiar but not usual,” says Braska’s brand choose Manila. We have a lot of guests asking, director Mark Abellon. Take, for example, ‘how do I ride the jeepney?’ and eating silogs every morning.” their Guava Jelly Toast, a savory-sweet But despite promoting Filipino culture, French toast sandwich stuffed with locally Braska’s interiors are anything but your made guava jam, cream cheese, and crispy typical Filipiniana. Instead of random bacon; and topped with shoestring kamote paintings of the countryside, Braska features fries. Another option is the Tablea Waffles a hip design by interior designer Anton a comforting treat made up of crisp tableaBarretto and a wall of wooden planks saved flavored waffles topped with luscious mango from old houses torn down in the area. Like cubes which you can drizzle with condensed the name of the restaurant—Braska is short milk. Both can work for breakfast, merienda, for Nebraska, the old street name—it’s a or even as a midnight snack. subtle callback to the past, hidden in plain Their bestselling Bangus Sardines Pasta sight within a modern design. is more straightforward. No frills, just al The dream for Braska is to not just be dente noodles bathed in a light oil-based situated within the city’s resurgence, but to sauce and chunks of tender bangus. Another be active in the revolution. When we dropped no-nonsense yet an absolutely must-try main by, they were setting up an indigenous art is the Short Ribs Caldereta. Juicy fork tender beef is cooked for hours in a rich tomato sauce exhibit in the hotel. They’re also meeting with local musicians of different genres who can made sweet and tangy by the red bell pepper perform live at Braska. “I’d like to expose the slices. Comfort food, alright. And it’s hard not area to different kinds of music,” says Mark, to remember a Pinoy childhood when eating who turns out to be a former DJ steeped in the Braska’s Chocnut Cake and fluffy Bibingka vibrant subcultures of Manila. topped with salted eggs and ube buttercream. “Lately, Filipino food has been making At night, Braska dims the lights and noise here and abroad,” adds Mark. “Why else transforms into a chill lounge where the favorite at the bar is the Lychee Martini. Pair would Anthony Bourdain take two trips to the Philippines, and specifically visit Malate?” your drink with Longganisa Meatballs, a Pinoy take on Scotch eggs where hard-boiled For a long time, locals took Filipino food quail eggs are wrapped in garlicky longganisa for granted, just as foreigners thought of it as weird and exotic. Now, more and more and crunchy breadcrumbs. understand: Filipino food and culture is Chef Poch Hogar knows her stuff—after something to be celebrated. all, she grew up around the area. You can

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The restaurant’s Short Ribs Caldereta is a classic done right; dreamy Bibingka with a dollop of ube buttercream; the Guava Jelly Toast can be a treat for two

Reward yourself with a slice of Chocnut Cake

WE RECOMMEND GUAVA JELLY TOAST (P245) BANGUS SARDINE PASTA (P325) SHORT RIBS CALDERETA (P375) LONGGANISA MEATBALLS (P325) TABLEA WAFFLES (P225) BIBINGKA (P155/UBE, P185/ QUESO) CHOCNUT CAKE (P140/slice)

BRASKA. G/F AMÉLIE HOTEL, 1669 JORGE BOCOBO STREET, MALATE, MANILA. CALL (02) 995-3981


If you find yourself in Malate late at night, enjoy Braska’s chill lounge set while munching on some of their bestsellers: Longganisa Meatballs and Bangus Sardines Pasta

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D I N I N G | Hu kad sa Golden Cow r ie

Limitless Pampering Let Hukad sa Golden Cowrie satisfy your Cebuano food cravings Words by Angeli De Rivera Photographed by John Ocampo of Studio 100 Art direction by Regine Paola Velilla

Start your meal with the Bantayan Baked Scallops

Would you go for the guilt-free Vegetarian Sisig or wicked Balut Sisig?

Ngohiong is a Cebuano street food favorite

WE RECOMMEND BAKED BANTAYAN SCALLOPS (P195) POMELO SALAD (P229) VEGETARIAN SISIG (P275) BALUT SISIG (P175) NGOHIONG (P99/5PCS) CEBU’S LECHON BELLY (P259/¼ KILO, P435/ ½ KILO, P615/¾ KILO, P785/1 KILO)

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“MA’AM, HUKAD SOME MORE?” Armed with a bucket and a long wooden sandok, the waitress smiled as she waited to serve me some more steamed rice. I’ve already had my fill but I changed my mind. “Yes, more rice,” I replied. With a few pieces left of the crisp and oh-so-flavorful Lechon Belly, I dug right back into the eating game with a recharged gusto. With its extensive menu of Cebuano specialties, matched with a superb staff ready to cater to your every whim, Hukad sa Golden Cowrie is without a doubt a winner when it comes to good food—and everyone knows Cebuano cuisine is synonymous with good food. Since opening its doors in 1982, Golden Cowrie has remained to be Cebu’s go-to family restaurant and has now expanded to more than 24 locations all over the country. This year, the management decided to open its first franchise in Manila. During our visit, we met with owner and director for product development Kristine Dela Riva Koseng, who proudly explained what Cebuano cuisine is all about. “The Cebuano panlasa is a mix of flavors. We want our food well-rounded, not just salty but with a mix of sweet and everything else,” shares Kristine. To maintain its signature Cebuano flavors, the restaurant regularly flies in special ingredients to their Manila commissary. For example, the scallops used for the Baked Bantayan Scallops were sourced all the way from northern Cebu. Small yet succulent and sweet, the addition of the melted cheese and butter can surely whet anyone’s appetite. The Hukad Pomelo Salad is made with a Cebuano twist. Sweet pomelo segments are mixed in with juicy singkamas slices and bits of crispy dried squid. Toss everything with the tangy calamansi dressing and you’ve got yourself a refreshing starter. The Ngohiong or Cebuano lumpia was an instant hit among those in our table. Pronounced as "ngoh-yong", this crispy street food staple took us by surprise since it looks like the usual fried lumpiang ubod, with

minced fresh heart of palm or ubod, and singkamas rolled in rice paper, and deepfried until golden. But what makes it special is the flavor coming from the Chinese 5-spice powder called ngo-hiong (fennel seeds, cinnamon, cloves, Sichuan pepper, and star anise). This well-loved Cebuano snack is best eaten with a soy sauce dip or special chili sauce—a Golden Cowrie secret recipe made especially for their ngohiong. The Balut Sisig is another mouthwatering must-try. Chopped balut bits are sautéed with onions and chilies until the yellow yolk turns into a mash, becoming a creamy sauce that rounds up all the ingredients. The Vegetarian Sisig though is a much healthier alternative. It’s composed of deep-fried diced tofu, chickpeas, mushrooms, and chopped green chilies served on a hot sizzling plate. But since Hukad caters to families and big groups, it’s safe to say that these two sisig dishes will surely please everyone in the group. To those who came for the Lechon Belly, here’s a fair warning. The dish is offered by the kilo and it sells out very, very fast. Just like a whole Cebu lechon, Hukad slow roasts the pork belly roll for at least four hours, after a long marinating process that allows all the flavorings like garlic and lemongrass to penetrate the meat. The aroma of the roasting pig alone can make you hungry with anticipation, or even do a little dance in your seat. And the skin? It’s pure pork candy— sweet, salty, savory—all at the same time. Did we mention the restaurant’s unlimited rice option? Because hukad means a limitless serving of food, you’ll certainly get your money’s worth at Hukad sa Golden Cowrie. “Ma’am, hukad some more?” the rice girl asks again. “Yes, please!”

HUKAD SA GOLDEN COWRIE. G/F, TRINOMA MALL, QUEZON CITY. CALL (0917) 809-4324


This Cebuano-style Pomelo Salad is a good mix of sweet, salty, and tangy

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DINING | Apag Ma ra ng le

Tidtad is Pampanga’s version of the dinuguan

Bountiful Pleasures Apag Marangle is proud to share and serve the essence of Kapampangan cuisine Words by Angeli De Rivera Photographed by Miguel Abesamis of Studio 100 Art direction by Yllaine Sabenecio

CHERRY PASION TAN AND MARK NAVARRO ARE PROUD OF THEIR KAPAMPANGAN ROOTS AND THEY SIMPLY WANT TO SHARE THE DISHES THEY HAVE COME TO LOVE WHILE GROWING UP. This was what prompted the pair to open the first Apag Marangle branch in Bacolor, Pampanga. There, customers can feast on an authentic Kapampangan food while taking delight in the lush greenery surrounding the fishing grounds, where the bamboo restaurant on stilts is located. Right from the beginning, it had been the duo’s mission to teach others what real Pampanga cuisine is all about. “We would like to bring back the authentic Kapampangan cuisine, which is cooking without the shortcuts—from the preparation of the ingredients, to the cooking method, to serving the dish. “Everything is done the traditional way,” the partners shared in unison. “No fusion, no twists—kung paano lang siya dapat niluluto,” Cherry finishes.

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In order to create the complete Apag Marangle experience (“hain sa bukid” in Tagalog), the partners made a way to bring the restaurant’s bucolic charm to Makati’s commercial district. Their Park Square branch is designed with a special balsa section or an elevated dining area made up of bamboo simulating the dining ambience in their Bacolor branch. Underneath the balsa is a mini fish pond where live catfish can swim freely—until the next diner comes in and orders fried hito. Wash basins can also be found in the restaurant so customers can wash their hands before and after eating, kamay-kainan style. The cooks of Apag take their sweet time preparing the specialty dishes every day. This is because Apag Marangle upholds the tradition of slow-cooking dishes, with stocks and sauces made from scratch— absolutely no short-cuts. For example, the corn used for the Suam Mais is grated every morning to ensure its freshness. Once you taste the sweet corn soup made more tempting with chunks of chicharon, you’ll be amazed at how the simplest ingredients can bring such enticing flavors. Another notable dish that shines using the humblest of ingredients is the Pepaluk Manuk or pinaupong manok. A whole chicken is rubbed with sea salt then wrapped in a banana leaf. After four hours of dry-steaming over a bed of sea salt, the tender white chicken is then transferred onto a kawali and served with two dips: spiced toyo and an in-house liver sauce. The chicken meat tastes fantastic: unadulterated and juicy, with a hint of sweetness from the banana leaf. I was told that Pampangueños love to bring dishes to another level and I understood what they meant when I tasted the Humba served with a side of ripe latundan.

Come out of your comfort zone and try the betute and camaru

The creamy sweetness of the banana levels out the intensity of the salty pork making the entire dish harmonious in every bite. Another glorious offering was Tidtad or white dinuguan. Compared to the black dinuguan, this Kapampangan version omits the use of pig’s blood as a sauce but rather lets it coagulate and cook in vinegar together with pork chunks and offal. The result is a rich sour stew which you’ll want to pair with Nasing Marangle, the restaurant’s flavorful pinakbet rice. Apag Marangle’s take on the Kare-kare is also a delight—generous portions of oxtail, tripe, and vegetables are cooked in a peanut sauce made from scratch. Don’t forget to pair this with the homemade sweet bagoong. Like a true Kapampangan eatery, Apag Marangle also offers its seasonal delicacies— Betute (fried frog stuffed with minced ground pork, vegetables, and alagaw leaves) and Camaru (mole crickets) cooked twoways: ginisa, which is sautéed in aromatics or pritu (inadobo-style). “Good food brings back memories,” Cherry explains. And that’s probably why customers keep coming back for more. So, if you're thinking of traditional and authentic Kapampangan homecooking in the city, Apag Marangle should be right there at the forefront.

APAG MARANGLE. GROUND FLOOR, PARK SQUARE, AYALA CENTER, MAKATI CITY. CALL (02) 668-5812

The best seats in the house are at the balsa section

WE RECOMMEND SUAM MAIS (P220) PEPALUK MANUK (P415) HUMBA (P320) TIDTAD (P298) NASING MARANGLE (P275) KARE-KARE (P545) BETUTE (P95/PC) CAMARU (P185)


Kapampangan Food Treasures (clockwise from top right): Humba with a side of latundan, ginisa na camaru, comforting Kare-kare, a generous serving of Nasing Marangle or pinakbet rice and the restaurant’s signature dish, Pepaluk Manuk

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DINING | Quezon

Filling up at the Fiesta

Chef Kalel Chan: back to basics

Get stuffed with some great local cuisine at Quezon Buffet Restaurant Words by Paul Catiang Photographed by Ed Simon of Studio 100 Art direction by Regine Paola Velilla

FILIPINOS LOVE A GOOD FIESTA. It’s that time of year when the town celebrates and everyone’s home is open to everyone else, the table decked with enough food to feed the village. This may account for the number of buffet restaurants that have popped up around the metro in recent years. But very few of them specialize in the cuisine that makes the fiesta: Filipino food. Quezon Buffet Restaurant offers just that: a feast of local dishes served twice daily, from 11:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. and again from 6:00 to 9:00 p.m. At a price around half to a third of the going rate for buffets in the metro, the place offers very good value for money, especially for people who love a good sampling of the local fare. Located at Fisher Mall in Quezon City, the restaurant looks almost stark. The 200-seater space comes with bright white floors and high walls dotted with pictures from President Quezon’s time—reproduced with permission from the National Archives. It’s lit by crystal chandeliers and furnished with black Art Deco-ish iron dividers and dark furniture, all of which serve to highlight the fiesta colors of the food on the buffet table. And it is quite the fiesta. It all begins with the sisig station, serving three kinds of the sizzling appetizer: pork, chicken, and bangus, all crispy and strewn with red and green slices of siling labuyo and haba. Then there’s the sawsawan station with

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Sawsawan station at Quezon

Fiesta favorites all week long

its selection of suka, patis, toyo, and bagoong, and of course the atchara, calamansi, and all the condiments that personalize the Pinoy meal. The rest are all winners, according to Kalel Chan, head chef of Quezon. Lechon? Of course, in pork and beef, along with the bagnet and roast chicken at the carving station. Paella? Definitely. Karekare, pork binagoongan, gambas, bulalo, pancit Canton, callos—more dishes than almost anyone can eat in one visit. Almost everything is straightforward and tastes just like home cooking, but prepared and served with the buffet in mind. Kalel usually likes to play with menus. Anyone who’s ever eaten at any of his restaurants throughout the metro has experienced this playfulness, the result of following the impulse of, “What would this taste like if I did this?” The challenge with Quezon, however, is not in how much he could experiment with the menu, but in how reliably he and his staff can churn out their dishes at the volume a buffet needs. Everything has to look fresh, and the staff constantly fixes the presentation on the serving dishes after some diners have taken their share. But there is still some room for playfulness. Quezon cures its own chorizo, and Kalel uses gin bulag to intensify the flavors. This streetwise touch lends the chorizo a more

intense aniseed-licorice flavor, which in turn goes into dishes like Chorizo y Gambas and Pork Binagoongan. To maintain freshness, some of the binagoongan’s ingredients are separated: the grilled eggplant goes on top, and the hilaw na mangga relish cuts the salty, bagoong taste, evoking the familiar street side snack. Of course, some dishes can only be made the traditional way, like kare-kare. This means making the sauce by roasting the malagkit before grinding it into a powder and using real peanuts—no shortcuts. “You don’t make kare-kare on a Tuesday night,” Kalel says. “You make it for that weekend visit to lolo and lola.” At Quezon, it’s there for lunch and dinner, along with the rest of the fiesta. The Filipino sweet tooth gets its share of attention with the desserts: ube panna cotta topped with macapuno, brazo de mercedes sandwich, leche flan, turon, soft-serve ice cream, and fresh fruit in season, all rounding out the fiesta buffet experience. Filipinos love a good fiesta. Quezon Buffet Restaurant offers just that, and stands to keep the feast going a little longer. Buffet is at P368 on weekday lunches (Monday-Friday), P468 on weekday dinners (Monday-Thursday), and P568 on Friday nights, weekends, and holidays. QUEZON BUFFET RESTAURANT. 4TH FLOOR, FISHER MALL, QUEZON AVENUE, QUEZON CITY. CALL (02) 281-2345, 366-6078


Have your fill of Lechon Baka Roll and Lechon Belly Roll at Quezon

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RESTO 6

Batchoy Be Good Words and photos by Zig Naguiat

As almost every other Asian nation has a signature noodle soup they can call their own, the batchoyy quite possibly could be ours. It’s usually a mix of chicken or pork broth (or a combination of both), egg noodles, sliced meat, innards, plus crunchy chicharon. Mmmm, my mouth's watering already. So, I'm gonna look for some of that this month. Whether it be a unique take or a slurp on traditional servings I'll let you know which ones to hit up servings, p.

|1|S Sarsa arsa 122 Joya Lofts & Tower, Amorsolo Drive, Rockwell, Makati City (02) 625-5166

SARSA Batchoy Special (P285) I was actually here for Café Batwan, but it was replaced by Sarsa instead. Oh well. My order of Batchoy Special arrived and it was a in generous serving that was probably good for two. All the good stuff g hiding under the surface of that broth. I opened up the fresh egg h and a let it cook in the still hot broth before I took sip. Ah, sweet and savory. A little more of the former, with a rich, meaty flavor. There sa was w fried pork, softened by the broth, yet still crunchy. The slices of beef and bacon-style pork were very tender and full of the broth's b flavor. The ubiquitous liver was present, lending a R ATI N G little texture and flavor to the whole affair. Good soup! Might be a little bit on the sweet side for some people, but I'd recommend it for a good batchoy fix.

4/5 4

| 3 | Backyard Kitchen + Brew | 2 | Lola Cafe

Second Floor, UP Town Center, Katipunan Avenue, Diliman, Quezon City. (0999) 366-6921

99 Scout Lozano Street, Laging Handa, Quezon City (02) 501-2620. (0917) 817-6045

Sinigang na Batchoy (P320) Bacon Belly Batchoy (P320) Converted from a former home, Lola is a nice, quiet place that serves a variety of Filipino dishes with their own take on them. Unfortunately for me, on the day I went, they ran out of egg noodles and tripe, so instead I got more pork and spaghetti noodles as replacements for the missing components. The broth is savory-sweet and has a deep garlic flavor to it. The bacon belly was very smoky, very tasty, and quite tender to bite. I'd eat more of that if I could. The pork they added was alright. A little softer than the bacon, and had its own unique taste. The spaghetti was al dente, but I could not help feeling odd eating it in a soup. It just didn't feel right without the mushiness or chewiness that egg noodles had. The chicharon and a slice of boiled egg weren't anything special, but they were welcome regardless. Honestly, I think this was really good soup. Big enough for two to share. R ATI N G Just disappointed that not everything was present, or I would have scored it higher. The bacon and the broth make this very much worth a try.

4/5

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Well this sounded interesting. Sinigang as the batchoy base? Why not? I was willing to give it a go. Was a little disappointed in the small, starter-sized serving though. I've had more for less. The soup was plenty sour, almost unpleasantly so… that I felt it sticking to my teeth. It almost drowned out the pork flavors of the soup. The noodles weren't a lot, and sliced into short strands too. There was some tasty fried pork as well that reminded me of bagnet. The innards were missing though, so that was a letdown. This could have been better with more noodles and less of the souring agent.

R ATI N G

3/5


| 4 | Oyasumi Ramen 308 P. Guevarra Corner Seaview Street, Greater San Juan, San Juan City. (02) 275-0309

La Paz Ramen (P370) "Wait wait wait, hold up. This is ramen, not batchoy", you say. Well, true, it's labeled as such, but the concept of batchoy is still there. So shush. WELL DANG THAT LOOKS GOOD. Itadakimasu and all that. Oooh, that broth. Rich. Garlicky. Meaty. And not a little fatty. The char siu was excellent; they had a delicious, toasted flavor I couldn't get enough of. They ran out of blood slices so they gave me extra char siu instead. The noodles were springy and a perfect al dente. I saved my egg and a slice of char siu and had my leftover broth turned into risotto (+P60). It was the best decision of my life (okay, maybe not). Cheesy and buttery, so deadly. Breaking open the softboiled egg into the rice made it even better. Oh, R ATI N G my heart. I don't know if I can recommend this to people with health problems, but I loved it. If not for the missing ingredient, almost perfect.

4.5/5

| 4 | Kanteen Ground Floor, Commercenter Building, 4th Avenue corner 31st Street, Bonifacio Global City, Taguig City. (0917) 827-4264

Batchoy (P200) The people who work at The Fort sure are spoiled for choice when it comes to food. And Kanteen just happened to be the best place to get some batchoy in the area. The soup was savory-sweet, and full of garlic and pork flavor. I really liked it, but when I started to sip more of it, I realized it was actually a tad too salty. The egg noodles were plentiful and firm, and had absorbed the flavors of the broth. Plenty of pork and beef slices too, and they were tender and moist. A boiled egg and liver slices rounded out the flavors of the dish. I R ATI N G couldn't finish the broth though, as the saltiness got to me after tasting it in everything. It's a good batchoy, worth the price, but maybe they should hold the sodium a little.

4/5

| 5 | The Batchoy Chef 1 Katipunan Street Corner Katipunan Extension, Santo Niño, Marikina City. (0977) 822-5124

Chef Calamay's Batchoy (P169) Mmmm, the broth was just the right balance of sweet and savory. Kinda rich too, almost like a tonkotsu base, thanks to the melted bone marrow and the fresh egg mixed into the soup. And plenty flavored with lots of toasted garlic bits and chicharon. The noodles were soft and pliant, but not overcooked. The sliced innards and liver were my favorite, full of that earthy flavor of offal. The beef and pork meat was very tender, and absorbed much of the flavor of the soup while holding their own. Oh man, I enjoyed that. R ATI N G It came with a baby siopao too. Nothing special, but it was nice to use as a sponge to lap up the remaining soup. A little bit out of the way, but with places like these, chances are, you're in for something good. And it was worth the road trip.

4.5/5

Zig Naguiat's fondness for noodles and soup has gone on way before he can remember eating his first bowl. No wonder he's such a taBATCHOY. Eh? EH? Really? Not even a tiny smile...? Tough crowd...

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THE BITE

Ilocos Empanada Words by Kevyn Tapnio Photographed by Floyd Jhocson of Studio 100 Art direction by Yllaine Sabenecio Special thanks to Ilocos Empanada, Katipunan QC

WHEN PEOPLE TALK ABOUT FOOD FROM ILOCOS, PINAKBET, BAGNET, AND LONGGANISA COME TO MIND. But when the discussion turns to street food, we immediately think of Ilocos empanadas. These are the most popular afternoon snack found in the town plazas of the province expertly made by the local women using the simplest of tools (a plastic pipe for a rolling

pin and plastic plate to cut the dough), flavored by either longganisa from the North (Laoag) or the South (Vigan). The empanada may have been brought to the Philippines by the Spaniards that colonized country, but like with most things involving our colonial roots, we Filipinos have since indigenized and made it our own. The name comes from the Galician, Portuguese, and Spanish root word empanar, which means “to roll in bread.” An empanada is made by folding a disc of thinly rolled dough over a filling into a semicircle and then sealing the edge. It’s somewhat similar to the samosa and gujia in India, which lead people to believe that it was derived from Indian influences, right around the time trade routes were established between Portugal and India. Brought by colonizers into the country, the empanada remains to be a popular snack in the Philippines to date. Those found in

the Tagalog regions could easily be sweet as they can be savory, and are often encased inside a soft, baked wheat flour dough. In the Ilocos region, however, the empanadas are an entirely different story. A bright orange shell characterizes what is inarguably the most popular empanada in the country. The vibrant color comes from atchuete, a natural food coloring added to the dough. Unlike its Tagalog counterpart, the Ilocos empanada is fried instead of baked and the shell is made from rice flour instead of wheat. Green papaya shreds, beansprouts, and Ilocano longganisa bits make up the savory filling. These ingredients are assembled in a ring-like fashion so that an egg can be cracked in the center right before the empanada is sealed and fried. It’s best eaten hot and paired with local Ilocano vinegar. The empanada’s origins may be traced back to the Portugese or Indians, but if there’s one thing we can bet our appetites on, it’s that this bright orange empanada, sought after by both locals and foreigners alike, is no doubt truly, distinctly Filipino.

Egg

Ilocos Longganisa Sukang I l o ko

Crust

Shredded Green Papaya and Boiled Monggo

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Watch out for the new variants from Ilocos Empanada Corner: Pork Adobo, Beef Mechado, and Bagnet!


T R AV E L

AUGUST 2016

Bohol Special

Bohol’s beauty knows no bounds. Blessed with gorgeous terrains, mesmerizing beachscapes, and lots of natural wonders, this Visayan island is a tropical paradise. There’s no question why foreigners and Filipinos love to explore this province. Of course, Boholano food is its own attraction. There are the home-cooked dishes from passed down recipes as well as the humble yet valuable delicacies and edible finds produced by community food artisans. On the other end of the spectrum, there’s also the high-end dining scene that’s set to satisfy and impress a gourmand’s discerning palate.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY ERRON OCAMPO

Come with us, as we explore and experience the best of what Bohol has to offer.


Bohol Special

A feast of flavors (from left): A filling plate of Seafood Lasagna, a serving of Grilled Blue Marlin, organic red rice sourced from the town of Carmen, and succulent Baked Pork Spareribs

Bohol Bee Farm

An All-Organic Feast by the Sea Words by Angeli De Rivera Photographed by Floyd Jhocson of Studio 100

IT FEELS LIKE THE SUN IS ALWAYS SHINING AT BOHOL BEE FARM. The rustic ambiance is alluring and there are so many things to do at this specialty resort. Some of them include tasting all the unique ice cream flavors at The Buzzz Ice Cream shop or buying the different kinds of pasalubong and honey-based goods from the gift store. Another delicious reason why people keep returning to this beloved resort is the food. As one of the foremost purveyors of organic farming in the province, Bohol Bee Farm is dedicated to serving their guests dishes prepared with ingredients grown from their garden. They also help the community by supporting local farmers to practice organic farming. In return, they use their products like heirloom rice as ingredients for the dishes served in Bohol Bee Farm’s restaurant. The menu was developed by the owner Vicky Sandig who is a foodie at heart. Most of her dishes were family recipes, which she served to her children when they were

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growing up. Dining at Bohol Bee Farm feels like a friend invited you to their charming home and they’re ready to spoil you with a spread of home-cooked specialties using organic ingredients. Meals can be eaten at the different dining areas overlooking the Bohol Sea but our favorite is the Lantaw section because it has the best seats in the house. The view of the sea here is mesmerizing once you gaze at the turquoise and sapphire waters. It’s the most relaxing backdrop you’ll ever set your eyes upon. Begin with the Organic Garden Salad, an eye-catching starter with its play of colors and textures coming from the different ingredients like Romaine lettuce, turnip slices, mustard greens, croutons, and edible flowers. The farm’s signature honey mustard dressing goes perfectly well with this pretty bowl of healthy goodness. Bohol Bee Farm uses cabcab (cassava) in some of their dishes and one specialty is the Cassava Fresh Lumpia. Lettuce, singkamas, mango, and cucumber slices are wrapped

A view of the Scuba Dive Shop from above; (Below) Our favorite Seafood Soup


A relaxing sea view while dining al fresco

in softened cabcab sheets then drizzled with the honey mustard dressing. Another healthy snack is the fried Cabcab Chips served with homemade pesto mixed with green tomato slices. Both appetizers are unique and delightfully refreshing. Kids and kids at heart will like the Honey-glazed Chicken. Choice cuts of organic chicken are roasted while heavily basted with a secret marinade made with Bohol Bee Farm’s wild honey then finished off with a generous sprinkling of toasted sesame seeds. The Baked Pork Spareribs is another crowd pleaser. Cooked until fork tender, the spareribs are then smothered with homemade sweet barbecue sauce. Partner it with Bohol Bee Farm’s organic red rice, which has a nutty flavor and firm texture. The Grilled Blue Marlin is another main dish to look out for. You can tell the fish is cooked at its prime because it was still plump and juicy, even after grilling. The addition of fresh dill brought out notes of sweetness in every bite. Instead of the usual ground beef or pork, the Seafood Lasagna is made with minced crab meat, local scallops, and shrimp. The seafood is layered alternately with the noodles and rich tomato sauce then topped off with Carabao cheese.

What's the Buzzz?

Last but not least is the Seafood Soup. An assortment of fresh seafood like blue marlin, crabs, shrimps, and squid were simmered to bring out the delicious flavors of the sea. Everyone in our table loved the soup so much that there wasn’t a drop left in the pot. For larger groups, these dishes can also be served buffet-style although you can also order them à la carte so the food arrives freshly cooked, and you can eat while admiring the gorgeous view of the sea. Trust us when we say you’ll end up with a dining-by-the-sea experience you won’t soon forget.

We Recommend ORGANIC GARDEN SALAD (P240) CASSAVA FRESH LUMPIA (P90/PC) CABCAB WITH PESTO & TOMATOES (P220) HONEY-GLAZED CHICKEN (P320) BAKED PORK SPARERIBS (P320) A sumptuous organic spread

GRILLED BLUE MARLIN (P360) SEAFOOD LASAGNA (P260) SEAFOOD SOUP (P240) THE BOHOL BEE FARM BUFFET P680/PERSON

BOHOL BEE FARM. DAO, DAUIS, PANGLAO ISLAND, BOHOL. CALL (038) 510-1822.VISIT WWW. BOHOLBEEFARM.COM

A trip to Panglao isn’t complete without a visit to Bohol Bee Farm. Day trippers can go on a halfday educational tour to observe the daily farm operations—from the processing facilities where the employees prepare the products sold at the gift store, to the organic garden housing the fresh vegetables and herbs used for the resort’s organic restaurant. There’s also the Bohol Bee Farm Crafts and Livelihood section

where visitors can buy local native goods like bags, mats, placemats, and house decorations. One of the Bohol Bee Farm’s highlights is The Buzzz Ice Cream store. They make their ice cream out of coconut milk, giving it a richer and creamier taste. Scoops (P50) are served on a cabcab cone (fried cassava) or you can order a half gallon tub (P580). Unique flavors include malunggay, dragon fruit, peanut kisses, and our favorite, salted honey. Guests staying at Bohol Bee Farm are also in for a treat. Some of the resort’s facilities include an in-house spa and a dive shop for scuba enthusiasts. The Buzzz Café on the other hand is an extension of Bohol Bee Farm and its delicious offerings with branches located in Tagbilaran and Cebu. Dragon fruit ice cream on a cabcab cone

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Bohol Special

A classic VIsayan dish, Nilaw-uy

Two of the house bestsellers: Dinakdakan and Ubi Kinampay

Gerarda's

Memorable Meals Around the Table Gerarda’s opens up its doors to serve heartwarming Boholano home-cooked meals Words by Nina Daza-Puyat Photography by Floyd Jhocson of Studio 100 Art direction by Regine Paola Velilla

The unbeatable tandem of Alex Lim and daughter Aimee

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LOLA GERARDA “DADING” HO LIM MUST BE BEAMING WITH PRIDE FROM UP IN HEAVEN. As a busy wife, mother, and grandmother in the 1950s all the way up to the early 2000s, she spent many long hours in the kitchen cooking for her brood of ten children and thirty-something grandchildren, plus an extended family of cousins and friends. This she did willingly and happily, not out of a sense of duty, but because serving home-cooked food was her language of love. Six years after she left this world, youngest son Alex decided to honor her memory by opening up a restaurant serving her culinary gems in their ancestral home in Tagbilaran City. Now with his daughter

Aimee Calatrava Lim at the helm of Gerarda’s operations, this family-friendly restaurant is considered a haven for comfort food in Bohol. A warm and welcoming atmosphere greeted us at the door as we were ushered in by the smiling staff. Tassled drapes adorn the windows while family portraits and random figurines line the walls; it felt as if we had arrived at our lola’s house, and the waiters were there to spoil us. Gerarda’s offers the Lim family’s favorite dishes featuring traditional Filipino fare and “Filipinized” Chinese dishes. Gerarda’s husband Felix Sun Lim was, after all, the son of a Chinese couple from mainland China who settled in Bohol in the 19th century. Having received the Certificate


of Excellence from Trip Advisor for three years (2014, 2015, 2016) and the Top Choice in Asia award by lianorg.com for two years (2015 and 2016), Gerarda’s has become quite popular among local residents and international tourists eager to sample Boholano food. Surprisingly, one of the most outstanding dishes on the menu is actually the simplest: the Ubi Kinampay Guisado. While most Filpinos know and love ube as an ingredient for sweets, this is a savory dish of sautéed ube strips with shrimps simmered in shrimp stock. It was so delicious and delightful, everyone at our table had second and third servings. Aimee explained that the special local variety of ube called ubi kinampay is favored for its firm to chewy texture and deep purple color. Boholanos apparently love soups and that’s why Gerarda’s Seafood Kare-kare is soupy and even mildly sweet. This guiltfree kare-kare has white shrimps, split blue crabs, tender squid rings, and lowland vegetables. As we mixed the peanut rich seafood broth into our rice, we agreed that it needs no bagoong at all.

Perfect pairing: Crispy Tadyang and Squid Ink Pancit

For those looking for a healthy viand, there’s the Nilaw-uy, a mélange of vegetables in a broth fortified with the essence of ginger, squash, okra, alugbati, patola and the mild fragrance from the bago leaf. Nilaw-uy or law-uy is apparently quite common all over the Visayas and Mindanao, with different versions made with whatever vegetables can be plucked from the garden, and oftentimes flavored with yesterday’s fried fish. Aimee also keeps up to date with food trends and infuses fresh ideas into Gerarda’s as she is about to complete her culinary degree from Cebu. Take the case of the Dinakdakan. Aimee upgraded the Ilocano favorite into a dish that’s meatier, using grilled pork belly instead of the usual “maskara” or pork face. The crisp and creamy bite is still present, thanks to the umami-rich mayonnaise as a substitute for pork brain, while chunks of crisp, green Bohol tomatoes add another layer of texture and flavor. You might say that this Visayan rendition is a Filipino classic with a twist. Chinese dishes also figure prominently on the menu with a whole page dedicated to different types of pansit. The most special and unusual of the lot would be the egg noodles tossed with mixed seafood and vegetables in a black squid ink broth. We also enjoyed the Sizzling Chicken Omelette, a tasty chicken chop suey encased in a thin egg crêpe.

Sizzling gravy blankets this chicken and veggies stuffed omelette

With Daddy Alex and Mommy Inday (who does the marketing for fresh produce daily) helping out, Aimee hopes to expand the family business into another Gerarda’s branch near the Tagbilaran airport. Looking around the spacious dining room filled with the noise and laughter of families and friends bonding over delicious food, I realized that Gerarda’s greatest gift to her children and grandchildren lives on. It’s in the tradition of cooking dishes with love that they serve to their customers every day.

We Recommend UBI KINAMPAY GUISADO (P185) SEAFOOD KARE-KARE (P350) GERARDA’S SEAFOOD NOODLES (P145) DINAKDAKAN (P210) CRISPY TADYANG (P260) SIZZLING CHICKEN OMELETTE (P210) NILAW-UY (P175)

GERARDA’S. 30 J.S. TORRALBA STREET, TAGBILARAN CITY, BOHOL. CALL (038) 412-3044

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Bohol Special Tarsier Paprika

Seaside Haven Discover unexpected culinary marvels in this seafront hideaway Words by Nina Daza-Puyat Photographed by Floyd Jhocson of Studio 100 Art direction by Regine Paola Velilla

THERE’S ANOTHER KIND OF TARSIER THAT’S FAMOUS IN BOHOL BUT IT HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THOSE CUTE LITTLE PRIMATES WITH BIG BROWN EYES. Tarsier Botanika is a vast botanical garden in the Tawala area of Panglao island that stretches all the way up to the edge of a cliff, overlooking the gorgeous Alona beach. This garden paradise of lush tropical plants, flowers, and wildlife is also an animal sanctuary that is home to parrots, monkeys, horses, and even a Palawan bear cat. Frenchman Nicolas Moussempes and his Filipina wife Patricia Muassab Moussempes first came to Bohol ten years ago to go scuba diving and they instantly fell in love with the island. From the original piece of land that the couple acquired, they eventually bought the surrounding property and developed it into a beautiful 8-hectare resort. Today, Tarsier Botanika houses villas for short and long-staying guests, an equestrian center, a museum, as well as a fine dining restaurant called Tarsier Paprika. Our group first found the Tarsier Botanika Boutique along the main highway of Alona Beach thinking that it was the restaurant we were looking for. When told that Tarsier Paprika is a few kilometers away and that our party could be picked up by the company shuttle, we decided to browse around the store while waiting. We were pleasantly surprised to find a well-curated selection of locally made jewelry and accessories, handmade table linen and resort wear. On the other side of the store is a deli and pastry café where customers can have some Italian-style coffee and a slice of cheesecake or apple pie. We later learned that Patricia Moussempes studied pastry artsat the École Lenôtre in Paris, and is a pastry chef by profession. After a breezy drive via shuttle bus, we reached the gated compound and were led to a meandering path through manicured gardens. We found ourselves facing a wooden deck beside a fully stocked bar that opened up to a magnificent view of the Bohol Sea. Tarsier Paprika has two main dining rooms that are interestingly several meters apart from each other. Both are painted predominantly white with floor to ceiling glass windows, allowing guests a stunning 360 degree view of the surroundings. With Nicolas’ 30 years of experience as an architect and interior designer in Hong Kong, he transformed the natural beauty of the place into a pretty, picture-postcard landscape.

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Ask for more green peppercorn sauce to best enjoy this steak and shrimp combo

(Top) The view from the deck is beautiful by night and stunning during the day; (Right) This foie gras and truffle soufflé will be part of Tarsier Paprika's new dégustacion menu


It would be a sin to skip the desserts at Tarsier Paprika

The dill hollandaise sauce adds a decadent richness to this dish

The menu offers café specialties such as burgers, fish and chips, as well as some standard pasta, but they have fine dining selections as well for those who want to splurge. We truly enjoyed the Salmon Dill Hollandaise that flaked at the touch of the fork. Every bite was delectable, especially so with the nutty, black heirloom rice pilaf. Tarsier Paprika’s rendition of a surf and turf would be the Prawn Riding Cow, a seared Angus beef tenderloin steak with a single prawn sitting daintily on top. Although quite pricey by Bohol standards, the best part about this dish is the green peppercorn sauce which truly shows the chef’s mastery of the classic French sauces. Our meal ended with a most memorable dessert of Dark Chocolate Truffle Cake, with every mouthful deliciously moist and satiny smooth. Having spent 30 years living as expats in Hong Kong, Nicolas and Patricia Moussempes were exposed to the simple pleasures of fine dining and a culturallyrich, cosmopolitan lifestyle. Whether it’s a visit to the Tarsier Botanika or the Tarsier Paprika, they want their guests to experience nothing less.

In-house breads are baked daily

An edible work of art: Dark Chocolate Truffle Cake

We Recommend SALMON DILL HOLLANDAISE PRAWN RIDING COW DARK CHOCOLATE TRUFFLE CAKE (PRICES AVAILABLE UPON REQUEST)

TARSIER PAPRIKA. KM. 16 HOYOHOY TAWALA, PANGLAO, BOHOL. CALL (0917) 526-6001. VISIT WWW.TARSIERBOTANIKA.COM

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Bohol Special Saffron

A Pinch of Indulgence Words by Angeli De Rivera Photographed by Floyd Jhocson of Studio 100 Art direction by Regine Paola Velilla

Saffron’s Seafood Mariscada, Tuna Kinilaw uses the freshest and the finest seafood sourced in Bohol, and Sea Urchin Pasta topped with Scallops

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WHEN WE ASKED THE LOCALS TO DESCRIBE BOHOLANO FOOD, THEIR ANSWER WAS UNANIMOUS: SIMPLE AND HOME-COOKED. However, with the number of fine dining places popping up in Bohol, it’s just a matter of time before we find a restaurant that can elevate the local dishes to another level. Thanks to the inspired effort of Amorita’s executive chef for five years, Chef Raphael “Paeng” Ongchiong, Saffron has succeeded in gaining that recognition. Today, Saffron is headed by Chef Alfred Yeung, who continues to make mouthwatering Boholano specialties that any gourmand will surely approve of. By committing to use only the freshest local ingredients, coupled with his knowledge of fine dining cuisine, Chef Alfred has kept the bar high at his restaurant. Chef Alfred started us off with the Pork Humba. Compared to the Chinese version that’s served only on its own, the Boholano humba is paired with fried saba. The banana actually heightens the sweetness of the dish, which made us hungry for more. Next came the Law-uy, a soup native to the province. Chef Alfred’s take includes pre-boiled vegetables prepped at the base of a bowl. It is then crowned with grilled tiger prawns for added protein. Saffron elevates the experience by pouring hot clear broth over the bowl to complete the dish. You can still bite into the crisp vegetables while the grilled prawns brings out a smoky dimension to the soup. For the Tuna Kinilaw, Chef Alfred adds a bed of guso (seaweed) to give more bite to the tender tuna cubes marinated in vinegar and coconut milk. There are also slices of red onion, green chilies, and chicharon bits to round out the flavors of the dish. Locally known as swaki, sea urchins are abundant in Bohol and Chef Alfred blends them into a creamy sauce


for his Sea Urchin Pasta, topped with perfectly seared scallops. This dish was so delicious that we wiped out plate clean, by mopping up the sauce with the accompanying toasted garlic bread. The Seafood Mariscada though, was for me, the dish to beat. A selection of fresh seafood is seasoned and grilled to perfection before adding it to a thick tomato soup flavored with fresh herbs and dried spices like Spanish paprika and of course, saffron. A kiss of lemon sealed the deal, and we happily devoured the stew. As dinner came to a close, we were presented with Saffron’s Turon. The usual banana and jackfruit turon are deep-fried until crisp and golden, but Saffron’s version gets an upscale treatment. This one has salted caramel poured over it, and then it’s served with a scoop of homemade Vanilla ice cream. Raspberry and pineapple sauces are served the side, if one wishes to add more whimsical flavors to the dessert. What a decadent way to end our meal.

Though considered plain and prepared with no-frills, Boholano cuisine will always be treasured by those who love it. But, if you want to taste it in a whole different level, then come to Saffron and expect Bohol dishes to be at their finest.

We Recommend PORK HUMBA LAW-UY KINILAW TUNA SEA URCHIN PASTA WITH SCALLOPS SEAFOOD MARISCADA TURON (PRICES AVAILABLE UPON REQUEST) SAFFRON. AMORITA RESORT, #1 ESTER A. LIM DRIVE, TAWALA, ALONA BEACH, PANGLAO, BOHOL. CALL (038) 502-9002

A Little Love Goes a Long Way If there’s one thing Amorita Resort is great at, it’s that they love to spoil you with everything. From the spacious accommodations, to the personalized service, even to the littlest things like putting sweet treats on the bed just before bedtime. Where else can you take a bike ride to explore around the luxury boutique resort, or indulge in a sensational spa session all under one location? There’s also the magnificent infinity pool where you can spend hours just staring into the majestic horizon. It’s the resort where you can really escape from it all, a dream place for those who want to have the ultimate relaxation. Yes Amorita is out to spoil you. And we won’t be surprise if you wouldn’t want to leave.

FOR ROOM RESERVATIONS, CALL (02) 856-1443, 553-9549. VISIT WWW.AMORITARESORT.COM SPECIAL THANKS TO MS. KATA AGMATA OF N ONE OF COLLECTION

The Boholano Pork Humba (top) Law-uy, and Turon (inset) leveled up

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Bohol Special

Savor the Gambas cooked with giant tiger prawns

The Paella Negra is a sure crowd pleaser

Tomar

Spanish Extraordinaire Words by Angeli De Rivera Photographed by Floyd Jhocson of Studio 100 Art direction by Regine Paola Velilla

Tomar’s assorted croquettas are also must-tries

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TOMAR IS THE SPANISH WORD FOR “TO TAKE." That’s exactly what I did when the waiter offered me a glass of Cerveza Negra, the welcome drink for guests dining in Amorita’s new Spanish restaurant. The sun was setting and our Spanish session was just about to start— I took this as a sign that a great meal was about to happen. When Amorita owners Nikki and Ria Cauton decided to open a new outlet at their resort, they knew they wanted something different from the rest of the international cuisines already found in Panglao. The couple loved travelling to Spain for its cuisine, so they thought of putting up a pintxos (small snacks) and tapas bar with excellent wine and drinks to go along with the food. From the design of the restaurant down to the choice of furniture and dining room details, the owners were very hands on with Tomar’s look. And it’s just what you’d expect from the minds behind Amorita: stylish and classy with a touch of urban sophistication. But even if the restaurant is located inside the resort, outsiders are welcome to come and taste their offerings.

Tomar’s approach to its food is remarkable: traditional Spanish flavors executed with a modern flair. Though special items like spices and wines are regularly flown in, the restaurant still upholds its principle of maximizing the use of locally sourced ingredients like seafood and produce. The Cauton couple also collaborated with former executive chef Paeng Ongchiong regarding the menu. Currently the kitchen is now headed by Chef Paeng’s protégé Jeffrey Estorpe, who, in the span of only three months, has already mastered his predecessor’s repertoire. There’s really nowhere to begin with the choices in Tomar since it’s all tapas and pintxos, but we suggest you start with the Gambas. The dish’s aroma was enticing as the dish was brought into the room. Not the usual small shrimp gambas, these were giant tiger prawns sautéed in olive oil with heady aromatics, olives, and chorizo. The flavors in the little serving bowl sure pack a punch—especially the fragrant


The luxe interiors of the restaurant

olive oil which you’ll want to pour over bread or even rice. To achieve that unique taste, Chef Jeffrey uses sherry vinegar and shrimp oil (shrimp heads slow fried in olive oil) as a base to meld all the flavors together. All I could say was wow. The Solomillo a la Manchego is another jaw dropper—slices of tender pork medallions are served with a savory gravy then shaved heavily with Manchego cheese. Red or white wine must have been added to the sauce because it was a deep and complex gravy that complemented the sweet-salty taste of the Spanish cheese. The Tortilla de Patatas was next. This Spanish potato omelet is a simple but classic tapa option, made more enticing with the addition of a grilled prawn skewer for a more impressive presentation. While Filipinos may know albondigas as a soup, the Spanish do meatballs very differently. Tomar’s Albondigas came in a small pot of meatballs swimming in a heavy tomato sauce. We found out that the classic Spanish meatballs may be made with ground pork or beef, but always with the addition of ground oxtail for a richer and more flavorful blend. No Spanish restaurant is without its paella and Tomar’s makes theirs by size. We were treated to the Paella Negra,

Tomar also offers unlimited tapas and wine nights. Two of the dishes served is this pinxtos boquerones and local scallops with cauliflower pureé; (Inset) The Tortilla de Patatas can easily fill you up

which our companion compared to “the blackness of the night” from the squid ink used to color every grain of rice. Bohol’s seafood shines through in the dish as each component adds a different texture and taste when you pair it with the rice. Final touches include a wedge of lemon and a drizzling of garlic aioli to add some tang and creaminess to the paella. More seasoned diners will want to pair their Spanish feast with any of the wines from the extensive wine collection at Tomar, where the waiters are trained to suggest the best wine pairings. With the well-executed dishes and spectacular dining service, may I dare say that Tomar can easily rival any Spanish restaurant in Manila. Boholanos are in for a treat and I am green with envy. Can’t wait to go back for more.

Albondigas, Spanish-style

We Recommend GAMBAS (P220) SOLOMILLO A LA MANCHEGO (P220) TORTILLA DE PATATAS (P150) BEEF ALBONDIGAS (P250) PAELLA NEGRA (P250/SMALL, P450/ MEDIUM, P650/LARGE)

TOMAR. 2ND LEVEL, AMORITA RESORT, #1 ESTER A. LIM DRIVE, TAWALA, ALONA BEACH, PANGLAO, BOHOL. CALL (038) 502-9002

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Bohol Special

Giuseppe's

The Sicilian Way Words by Yllaine Sabenecio Photographed by Floyd Jhocson of Studio 100 Art direction by Regine Paola Velilla

The Quattro Stagioni freshly-baked out of the oven; (Above) The reputable Chef Giuseppe Sgroi

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SICILIAN AND FILIPINO FOOD TRADITIONS HAVE A LOT IN COMMON. Sicilians serve their food in generous portions, the same way our own grandmothers would continually add food to our plates even if we insist that we are already full. That’s Sicilian hospitality: they give more than enough and it’s very rare to find them serving food in small portions. This same generous spirit and strong family traditions can be felt in Giuseppe’s Sicilian Roast located along the highway of Bohol’s Panglao Island. It started five years ago when Sicilian Chef Giuseppe Sgroi together with Cebubased Sicilian Chef Giuseppe Genco decided to partner up and have an Italian restaurant in Bohol. At first, business was slow because the people only crowded the popular Alona Beach which was several hundred meters away from the restaurant. It also didn’t help that the Tiwala highway area was still underdeveloped with not enough lighting to lure in diners. The restaurant did well during the day but customer traffic was thin during dinner service. As Panglao became more populated and positive buzz regarding the Italian restaurant along the highway circulated all over the city, Giuseppe’s eventually gained a following among the tourists and eventually the residents of Bohol. Among tourists and locals, Giuseppe’s is known for high-quality, Italian food that tastes like Sicilian home-cooking and is served in generous portions. They offer much more exciting alternate dishes compared to usual, monotonous grilled


Tortini di Cioccolato and Tiramisu

seafood and meat dishes offered by the small restaurants and eateries dotting the beachfront. The ambiance is casual and cozy —very conducive to family-style dining. You might want to begin with one of the restaurant’s favorite antipasti, the Parma Mango. Instead of the usual melon, Guisseppe’s has Parma ham wrapped around slices of ripe mango, then finished with Parmesan shavings and fresh basil leaves. The sweetness of the mango cuts through the richness and saltiness of the cured meat and cheese, while the basil brings in a peppery and aromatic dimension to each bite. Insalata di Salmone is one of Sgroi’s favorite starters. Fresh salmon fillets cured for at least twelve hours are placed on a bed of lettuce and shredded carrots. Pineapple bits and quartered tomatoes provide a pop of freshness and tang to the salad, while the dressing of tuna cream cheese adds a welcome richness. Some finely sliced bitter ravanelli (red radish) is sprinkled on top to round out the flavors. When dining at Giuseppe’s, you must order one of their hand-tossed, brick oven-baked specialty pizzas. The Quattro Stagioni, or “four seasons” in Italian, is a popular choice with its four flavors of olives,

We Recommend PARMA MANGO (P390)

mushrooms, artichokes and ham in one thin-crust pizza. The Ravioli Spinaci e Ricotta is another beloved classic that is done well at Guissepe’s. Pasta pockets made from scratch are stuffed with creamy ricotta and spinach. The cooked ravioli are then smothered with a rich-tasting tomato sauce made more aromatic with herbs and spices, then finished off with a generous sprinkling of mozzarella before it is baked. It’s so flavorful, you may want to share it; but then again, you might just want to keep it all to yourself. Cap off your meal with the Tortino di Cioccolato, a freshly-baked dark chocolate lava cake topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and a cloud of whipped cream. You’ll enjoy the play of warm and cold sensations in your mouth, but especially the decadent dark chocolate in the center. Of course, you can’t go out without a taste of the Tiramisu. It’s an authentic rendition of the favorite Italian dessert with alternating layers of whipped mascarpone cheese and espressosoaked lady fingers, then finished off with a dusting of cocoa powder. This tiramisu alone is worth a trip to Giuseppe’s. When we asked the chef why he chose to put up a restaurant in Bohol, Chef Guissepe Sgroi simply explained that he doesn’t aim for the “American dream.” He’s happy and contented welcoming and entertaining his guests in his restaurant. No wonder locals and foreigners alike flock to the place. It has great food, great service, and a great chef. Grazie mille, Signor!

The homey ambience of Giuseppe’s is the perfect place to dine with friends and family

Parma Mango

Insalata di Salmone

Ravioli Spinaci e Ricotta

INSALATA DI SALMONE (P350) QUATTRO STAGIONI (P420) RAVIOLI SPINACI E RICOTTA (P400) TORTINO DI CIOCCOLATO (P240) TIRAMISU (P240) GIUSEPPE PIZZERIA & SICILIAN ROAST. TAWALA, PANGLAO, BOHOL. CALL (038) 510-1217, (0917) 625-5582

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Bohol Special Prawn Farm

Seafood Sensations Words by Yllaine Sabenecio Photographed by Floyd Jhocson of Studio 100 Art direction by Regine Paola Velilla

(From top) There's something for everyone in the Grand Grill platter; Casual but elegant dining at the Prawn Farm

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BOHOL IS REGARDED AS ONE THE BEST PLACES TO VISIT IN THE PHILIPPINES. It boasts of incredible beaches, numerous eco-tourism attractions, and it has also become a destination for food. These are the things we tourists coming from Manila or abroad usually look forward to with excitement. We like to discover where the locals go and hardly ever visit the town’s commercial center, expecting to find the usual fastfood joints and stores we have back in the country’s capital. But sometimes, gems are found in the most unexpected places, even inside the mall. The Prawn Farm Restaurant at the Island City Mall is one prime example. The restaurant was founded in 2007 by siblings Leonardo, Lolito, Marlito, and Nilita Uy. After sustaining the family’s seafood, poultry, and pig farms, the siblings decided to open up a restaurant. The Prawn Farm highlights the freshest catch like prawns, crabs, and tilapia from the family’s farm in Catagbakan, Loon, Bohol. Upon entering this casual seafood restaurant, you’ll be welcomed by a display of aquariums showcasing the day’s bounty. In a separate icebox you will find premium items like blue marlin, giant prawns, and local scallops for the picking. The fun part begins when customers get to choose from the display and dictate exactly how they want their dish to be cooked. Being in the Visayas, Malasugue Kinilaw would be a good dish to start your meal with. Bite-size portions of malasugue fish (white marlin) are given a gentle wash with vinegar, and then spiked with some aromatic ginger, onions, and peppers. Coconut milk and mayonnaise are then mixed in to give an extra layer of creaminess. Sweet, sour, and spicy are at play here, with


the first bite providing sweet and sour notes, and the chilies leaving a lingering spicy heat. Favored by locals and tourists alike, Prawn Halabos is the star of the restaurant’s weekend buffets. Imagine large tiger prawns that are lightly steamed then sautéed with other spices, and then simmered in a splash of clear soft drink, lending a sweet note to the already flavorful dish. It’s perfect with steaming hot rice. Taking your barkada for a night out? Their Pan-Grilled Squid with Garlic Chili Sauce is another must-try. Served on a sizzling plate, the squid comes stuffed with chopped tomatoes, onions, and green chilies. This dish has a good amount of spice and has all the makings of a perfect pulutan. All you need are some chilled bottles of beer and you’re all set. When dining with a large group, it’s best to get the Grand Grill, a huge platter of assorted grilled seafood and pork kebabs, perfect for sharing among yourselves. It has grilled squid, tilapia fillet, and prawns; garlicky buttered scallops; a whole blue crab rubbed with local spices then pan-grilled in butter. You’re spoiled for choice with this

Crush the chilies in the sauce to make this an extra spicy dish

one, so be sure to smother your seafood with the accompanying lemon-butter sauce. You also have to try the Steamed Pompano, one of Prawn Farm’s bestsellers. Freshly-caught pompano is steamed and flavored with soy-ginger sauce. The fish melts in your mouth and the classic

(Inset) You'll need extra rice for this dish of crabs cooked with gata; Halabos na hipon gets an upgrade wth large jumbo prawns

combination of soy sauce and ginger enhances the delicate meat. For a true taste of Bohol, don’t miss out on the Mud Crab Cooked with Coconut Milk Sauce. Huge alimango are first steamed and then simmered in a rich coconut milk sauce that’s flavored with ginger, lemongrass, and crab drippings. This dish has the perfect balance of spicy and creamy, so you’ll want to lick the sauce and pick the succulent crab meat from every joint and cavity. The next time you visit, make sure to add this to the itinerary, because the best seafood Bohol has to offer can be found at the Prawn Farm Restaurant. We assure you, it’s worth a trip to the local mall.

We Recommend MALASUGUE KINILAW (P225) PRAWN HALABOS (P220/SMALL, P425/MEDIUM) PAN-GRILLED SQUID WITH GARLIC CHILI SAUCE (P255) GRAND GRILL (P905) STEAMED POMPANO (P125/100G) MUD CRAB COOKED WITH COCONUT MILK SAUCE (P155/100G) PRAWN FARM RESTAURANT. UPPER GROUND FLOOR, ISLAND CITY MALL, DAMPAS, TAGBILARAN CITY, BOHOL. CALL (0917 304-3879

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Bohol Special

Specialties

Bohol Bounties There’s still so much to learn about the island of Bohol, especially when it comes to the local food and ingredients. During our trip, we travelled to three locations to learn some of the most fascinating food products created by passionate local food artisans Words by Angeli De Rivera Special thanks to Gov. Edgar M. Chatto, Bohol province; Bohol Tourism Office Head Ms. Josephine R. Cabarrus; and Tourism Services Officer Mr. Christopher A. Boncales

Lady Fingers Sylvia Fernandez Maristela’s grandmother, Rosa “Osang” Clarin, is the name behind the broas (ladyfingers), and the one responsible for creating the sweet, mouth-watering delicacy. For years the family has been making broas as a livelihood with the practice passed on from generation to generation. Sylvia started with the business by helping her mother in the kitchen, but it was her aunt who taught her how to make the delicate ladyfingers. Together with a small staff, Sylvia wakes up early in the morning to churn out batches of their broas and other products like egg cookies, pastel, and torta cake. Made simply from flour, eggs, and sugar, the ingredients are mixed altogether then placed inside plastic piping bags. The batter is piped into long strips on a thin metal sheet which are then transferred inside the heated pugon . When the broas are finished baking, the cookies are placed on a custom-made rack to harden and cool. The finished broas are packed in brown paper bags with an oldfashioned label and even a nutritional value at the back. Osang’s is located behind Baclayon church and people make it a point to also make a pilgrimage to the small bakery to get a taste of Boholano broas. Come Christmas time the demand gets so high that Sylvia has to turn down orders so her family could also take a break. But even when the 2013 Bohol earthquake nearly broke Osang’s original pugon , it didn’t stop Sylvia and her family from continuing the tradition of making their beloved broas.

Salt from the Hearth Making asin tibo-ok is a dying craft. Renante Manungas is a fourth generation salt-maker and is one of the last artisans of tibo-ok in Alburquerque, Bohol. “Long ago, almost all the coastal towns made tibo-ok . Now I think there’s only a very few of us left,” Renante confesses. It takes a lot of time and effort to make asin tibo-ok . Tons of hollowed coconut husks are soaked in sea water for at least three months. They are then moved inside the processing hut to dry for a few days and then burned into ashes. The ashes are piled inside big inverted vats called sagsag while salt water pumped from the sea is added to begin the filtering process, which needs to be done at least two times. After collecting the filtered sea water that has accumulated below the narrow opening of the sagsag , it’s time to prepare the hearth for the salt extraction. Using a conch ladle, the brine is poured into individual clay pots called con that are lined inside the burning hearth. This is done repeatedly to fill the con to the brim with salt as the water evaporates. The product is finished when the con is filled and the bottom of the pot breaks due to the intense heat. The final product is then packed, sealed, and distributed to the market and direct customers. The taste of the asin tibo-ok is extraordinary because it’s packed with natural umami. People often grind it or sprinkle it on food in tiny bits for a burst of flavor. With people like Renante and his family who continue to preserve their craft, there’s hope that the tradition of making asin tibo-ok in Bohol will live on.

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Golden Ginger The Candabong Rural Improvement Club Multipurpose Cooperative in Loboc has been making ginger-based products such as salabat (instant ginger tea) and ginger candy since 1991. When you try their salabat and ginger candy, there’s a real difference in taste with its natural heat and smoothness as it goes down your throat. That’s because they use native luya, locally called “bisaya,” which is known to be more potent in heat and flavor compared to other ginger varieties. Ginger is harvested from all over Bohol by the men, while the women of the cooperative take turn in processing the products. Early in the morning, batches of ginger are brushed, cleaned, peeled, and grated. The juice from the grated ginger is extracted then added with sugar. Over an open fire, the juice is stirred and reduced until the final stage where the solidified pulp is pounded until pulverized to form the finished powdered product. For the salabat candy, the ginger juice is added with caramel, honey, calamansi, and glucose then poured into silicon molds until hardened. The co-op has also added turmeric powder to its line of products. Because of their hard work, the women have been commended for their high-quality ginger products and they have earned several awards from the government for improving the lives of its co-op members.


Public Market

Visita Merkado Make time to drop by the local market and delight in the sights and sounds of a city coming to life

Fresh sea urchin in a bottle for P80 and lato seaweed

Words by Nina Daza-Puyat

A visit to the public market is always a must for people who like to cook. It’s like letting a kid loose in Toys R Us when a chef or a cook is given a chance to peruse the variety of ingredients in the local palengke. The shopping experience is almost always a sensory overload. Imagine being able to touch and smell the fresh produce harvested from the farms; being able to see the various shapes, sizes and colors of fish and seafood from the surrounding seas or the nearby rivers. It’s also somewhat exciting to hear the squawking chickens, squealing pigs, and even the busy chopping sounds at the meat section. There’s really nothing quite like a visit to the public market, no matter which country or province one might be in. At the Tagbilaran Public Market in Dampas, here are some of the more exotic and exciting finds:

•Consume uni by mixing it with hot rice •Store leftover uni by mixing with rock salt to preserve it for a few more days in the refrigerator

Homemade knives for kitchen and garden use with carved wooden sheaths made of Sampaloc wood P200- P500

White snake eels playfully shaped into a heart by the fish vendor

Saang or spider shells for lunch anyone? Boil these to extract the meat. Dip in vinegar or soy sauce

Stingray or pagi at P140 per kilo

Acacia wooden mortar and pestle for P120 and assorted clay pots

A Breakfast of Puto Maya

Chopped green tomatoes are quite popular as an ingredient for ensalada

After doing the rounds of the market, you might want to have breakfast at a stall called Bingbing’s, which is known for serving good puto maya (P15) and sikwate con leche (P18) Puto maya is not a soft white fluffy cake as some might imagine, but a mound of glistening glutinous rice (a combination of white and purple) that’s been soaked overnight in coconut milk, ginger, and salt, then steamed until sticky but still al dente. At first bite, puto maya is mildly savory with a hint of spice from the ginger (which may be off-putting for some) but its taste grows on you especially when sprinkled with lots of sugar and moistened with bittersweet sikwate con leche. Bingbing makes the hot chocolate (made with local tablea), the old-fashioned way, batirol style.

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Merienda Time at Painitan sa Bol-anon By Nina Daza-Puyat We Filipinos love our kakanin . We like the way its sticky-sweet texture sticks to our teeth and the way the rich taste of the creamy gata feels on our tongue. We love the fragrance of burnt or boiled banana leaves that these rice cakes are traditionally wrapped in, which somehow add to the flavor of each bite. In Tagbilaran City in Bohol, kakanin is especially popular fare for merienda . At Jojie’s Pa-initan sa BolAnon, we found a wide range of these sticky sweet carbo-loaded snacks. The place is always packed with locals having a tête-à-tête over a cup of sikwate or coffee, and a plate of mixed kakanin to share. This is also where Boholanos come to buy their favorite kakanin to send to Manila or even abroad. JOJIE’S PA-INITAN SA BOL-ANON IS LOCATED AT CITY SQUARE MALL, TAGBILARAN CITY, BOHOL. CALL (038) 411-0462

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Clockwise from the bottom 1. DUKOT is similar to a bibingkang malagkit but with a topping or crusty rice or tutong . It’s sweetened with a dark red sugar called kinugay. 2. CASSAVA CAKE Grated cassava baked with coconut milk (gata), evaporated milk, and condensed milk 3. NILAMBID is a smooth, sticky suman made of glutinous rice flour and coconut milk. It’s only mildly sweet, but it’s made more special with the addition of tablea chocolate and ground peanuts. 4. NILUBID is a cassava and coconut milk suman mixed with tablea chocolate and purple ube. This forms a delightful pin-striped suman with three colors. 5. SUMAN DINUMUGAN is a combination of finely ground rice and finely grated ripe saba bananas cooked in coconut milk until thick. It’s then topped with cheese to provide a savory counterpoint. 6. SUMAN BULANGHOY is a big, dark brown cassava suman cooked with coconut milk, dark brown sugar and bits of buko or young coconut. 7. BUDBUD. Don’t let this innocent little white suman fool you. This sticky rice roll packs a flavor wallop with its spicy ginger that lingers after every bite. 8. PUTO BULANGHOY is a cake made with cassava, young coconut (buko) and gata that’s sweetened with kinugay. 9. BINGKA is a rice cake is made of ground rice (giniling na bigas), gata and brown sugar. The batter is left to ferment a little before being poured into tin cups lined with banana leaves.


Mozzarella is sold by weight, but the average cost of one mozzarella ball is P150 per bag

Panglao Mozzarella By Nina Daza-Puyat

With the number of foreign visitors who have decided to make Bohol their permanent address, it’s not surprising to find all kinds of international cuisines offered on the island—from burger joints to Italian pizzerias, Greek tavernas to Persian shawarma stands. But in order for the flavors of the dishes to be as authentic as possible, ingredients for these restaurants have to be imported from Cebu or Manila. It makes sense. But what we never expected to find in Bohol, though was real and authentic, freshly-made mozzarella cheese and burrata parcels. Following the signs of the billboards along the highway, we found Vanilla Sky, a small resort run by an Italian named Alessandro Skabar. This handsome and charming Sicilian makes the mozzarella himself using fresh carabao’s milk from the Philippine Carabao Center in Ubay, Bohol. He processes 100 liters of milk at a time, once or twice a week, depending on the demand. Using a custom-made wooden vat called Tino di Filatura, Alessandro works almost the whole day, turning liters of fresh milk into a curd or cagliata until it’s nice and stretchy—as mozzarella should be. To make Caprese Salad like the Italians do, order your mozzarella balls from Alessandro Skabar at (0930) 136-4743 or call Vanilla Sky at (038) 502-8446.

If you plan to bring mozzarella balls home to Manila, buy only on the day you’re leaving and keep them in a Styrofoam box with ice. Refrigerate immediately and the fresh cheese should keep for about a week.

VANILLA SKY IS LOCATED AT KALIPAYAN ROAD, DANAO, BOHOL. VISIT WWW.VANILLASKYRESORT.COM

Purple Passion By Yllaine Sabenecio and Kevyn Tapnio Photos by Marco Grassi and Bohol Tourism Office

Students and professionals joined the 1st Ubi Cookfest to make savory and sweet dishes out of ubi; (inset) ubi kinampay

Boholanos have a deep appreciation for their purple yams or ubi. Ube thrives anywhere in the Philippines with its resiliency against adverse conditions such as droughts and pest infestations, but the ubi kinampay of Bohol is dubbed as the Queen of Philippine Yams. Characterized by its unique aroma, naturally sweet taste, as well as the deep purple color that no other ube variety can compare to, the ubi kinampay is believed to be sacred among the Boholanos. It has saved them in times of famine in the pre-Hispanic era, when extreme conditions killed most of the other crops, as well as in times of war, when food was often scarce. For Boholanos, ubi now has become a symbol of the province. The Ubi Festival is celebrated annually, at the beginning of the year, where locals dedicate their time in promoting the crop, its varieties, and the different ubi delicacies they can come up with like jams, puto, and candies. In fact, Boholanos don’t just use it for making sweets and desserts. They have also been putting these purple gems in their savory dishes (check out Gerarda’s Ube Kinampay Guisado on p.70) as well. Next January, come and celebrate the 17th Ubi Festival and share the passion and love for the ubi.

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Bohol Special

Pasalubongs

A Piece of Bohol to Take Home Words by Yllaine Sabenecio

We may not be able to take the whole place with us or stay in a certain place forever but little trinkets and pasalubongs are the perfect gifts to relive those travel memories. Aside from the already popular Peanut Kisses, and tourist-y shirts, fridge magnets, and keychains, what else can we bring back from Bohol? Here are some of our picks!

Achieve the Weave Bohol Bee Farm’s Goodies What’s a bee without its honey? Together with the help of other bee farmers in the province, Bohol Bee Farm produces and sells an assortment of pure organic honey. These include the Hard Honey, which is a 100% pure raw honey, Wild Honey that’s produced from the flower nectars found in Visayas and Mindanao region, and the deep-flavored Molave Honey. Other honey-based products include Honeyed Garlic, Honeyed Lemon, and Honeyed Hot Sauce. What caught our interest were the Cab-cab chips. A healthier alternative to potato chips, these crackers are made from mashed cassava that’s spread out into thin layers, and then dried. These are fried into thin, crisp chips—reminiscent of kropek , without the saltiness. Bohol Bee Farm even uses them as cones to pair up with their coconut milk-base ice creams. As for the Raw Cab-cab sheets, they can be a gluten-free substitute for pastas or lasagna noodles.

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Boholanos have a strong and centuries-old weaving tradition. It’s evident even in the small houses lining the highway, showing off their beautifully woven walls made from wide strips of rattan. It was quite interesting to see how designs and patterns vary from house to house. Weaving is also one of the main livelihoods of many women in Bohol. At the Crafts and Livelihood section of Bohol Bee Farm, we found women busy weaving yards of fabric using a traditional loom. These multi-colored raffia fabrics are sewn into bags, pouches placemats, and home decors as souvenirs; they are also sold by the yard. Woven souvenirs and elegantly-designed woven bags are available at the department store section of the Island City Mall under the Let’s Go Natural label. You might also find some independent stalls around the city selling woven floor mats or banig, baskets, hats and bags. Be sure to haggle to get the best price.

6 Things to Do iin Bohol By Kevyn Tapnio B

B Board the Loboc River Floating Restaurant. Cruise along the Loboc R River and enjoy the Filipino dishes R iin floating restaurant’s buffet spread. Have a Spelunking Adventure. H Unleash the explorer in you and U walk, crawl, and swim your way through the caves in Danao Adventure Park. Go diving. Discover the rich and diverse marine life in the depths of Balicasag, an internationallyrecognized dive spot and marine sanctuary that houses four vastly different dive sites you can explore. Ride the Bike Zip. Enjoy the breathtaking view of the Chocolate Hills as you ride a bike 150 feet above the ground in a 550-meter long bike zip in the Chocolate Hills Adventure Park. Drive an all-terrain vehicle. Go on an eco-tour in these 4-wheeler carts and make your way through muddy trails and uneven paths around the Chocolate Hills with your friends and family. Go Firefly Kayaking. Paddle around the beauty of Maribojoc’s mangrove river as you watch the sun set and wait for the stars and fireflies to come out.


HEART& HOME AUGUST 2016

Discover the different and unique takes on the classic Filipino dessert, halo-halo. Plus, Claude Tayag shares with us the story of Filipino cuisine in the international stage

PHOTOGRAPHED BY RON MENDOZA

Did you know that the word “halo-halo” is actually an adjective that means “all mixed up”? Though halohalo is stil widely accepted, the proper word for this popular Filipino dessert would be “halu-halo”


S P E C I A L F E AT U R E

Mix it up How do Filipinos love their halo-halo? Here are seven dazzling, colorful, and tangy ways Words by Kevyn Tapnio Illustrations by Clarrys de Guia

Halo-halo. Just hearing these words is enough to bring a wave of nostalgia for most Filipinos. This delicious, icy delight has been around for as long as we can remember and is perhaps the most wellknown Filipino dessert around. Made with a refreshing combination of sweetened fruits and beans, evaporated milk and shaved aved ice, halo-halo is believed to have been brought to the country by the Japanese before World War ar II. Over the years, however, Filipinos all across the country have come up ue, and definitely original ways to enjoy this classic Filipino treat! with fun, unique,

Halo-halo de Iloko Balay Hailing from San Fernando, La Union, Halo-halo de Iloko serves its halo-halo five ways. Aside from the regular option, try its Buko Halo-halo (P185). Served in a fresh coconut shell, this one consists of specially cooked ingredients: bukayo (coconut shreds cooked in brown sugar), pandan yema made from fresh carabao's milk, pulitipot (caramelized sugarcane), sago cooked in honey —all made from locally sourced La Union ingredients! Corn, nata de coco, and cheese can also be found in the mix and every serving is topped with another La Union specialty—ube halaya —and homemade ice cream! The juice from the coconut is served in a separate glass along with your halo-halo as a refreshing drink to end your meal.

Trivia: The ice cream flavor served on top changes depending on the season. In summer, they use ube, ube-macapuno, or melon ice cream. During the rainy days, however, they put a scoop of avocado ice cream instead.

HALO-HALO DE ILOKO BALAY IS LOCATED AT #12, ZANDUETA ST., SAN FERNANDO CITY, LA UNION. CALL (0917) 852-7919

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Photo by @halohalodeilokobalay on Instagram


Ben's Halo-Halo Ice Cream Hot and cold go hand-in-hand in a serving of Spicy Winter Halo-halo (P55), which can be found in a snack bar in San Pablo, Laguna. Taking sweet and spicy to a whole new level, Ben’s Halo-Halo Ice Cream brings us a surprising combination of minatamis na saging, macapuno, white bean paste, jackfruit, ube —and chili powder! Topped with leche flan and siling labuyo, this halo-halo is drizzled with heavy, ice cream-infused milk to balance out the spice. BEN’S HALO-HALO ICE CREAM IS LOCATED AT #294 DOÑA LEONILA ST., BRGY. BAGONG BAYAN, SAN PABLO CITY, LAGUNA. CALL (0949) 917-2044

Photo by @tarasasouth on Instagram

DJC Halo-halo and Snack Inn Cheese ese is the name of the game for this little food joint in Albay. DJC Halo-halo and Snack Inn brings us its famous Cheesy Halo-halo (P85). It’s your everyday halo-halo — gulaman, mini sago, minatamis na saging, leche flan, and ube ice cream–only this one is served with a generous topping of grated cheese! The savory cheese balances out the sweetness of the leche flan and other sweet ingredients, providing a pleasant, flavorful contrast in each spoonful. DJC HALO-HALO AND SNACK INN IS LOCATED AT THE LANDCO BUSINESS PARK, LEGAZPI CITY, ALBAY. CALL (052) 480-6868 Photo by @elachae on Instagram

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S P E C I A L F E AT U R E

Kabigting's Halo-Halo Dubbed as the pride of Arayat, Pampanga, Kabigting’s Halo-halo (P100) stands out from your typical halo-halo with its simple mix of sweetened white beans, creamed corn, and pastillas. Made from fresh carabao’s milk, the soft pastillas—which turns chewy in ice—is what really gives life to this local dessert. Every spoonful of Kabigting’s Halo-halo has a rich, creamy texture that no other halo-halo can compare to. KABIGTING’S HAS BRANCHES IN QUEZON CITY, MARIKINA, AND PAMPANGA. CALL (02) 354-8156 OR (0922) 851-1770

Photo by Arha Chang @arhaa_ng on Instagram

Hacienda de Palmeras Hotel and Restaurant Slices of fresh bananas, ripe mangoes, watermelons, and flavored gelatin compose the Palmeras Restaurant’s Knickerbocker (P70) in Zamboanga. Adapted from the Knickerbocker Glory, a layered ice cream dessert popular in the British Isles, this halo-halo -like dessert is made of sliced fruits drizzled with sweetened cream and topped with strawberry ice cream. The Philippines indigenized the recipe by using fruits more commonly found in the country. How the dessert came to be called the Knickerbocker Glory remains to be a mystery, but some believe it came from its resemblance to the knickerbocker stockings, which used to be popular among young girls in America during the 1930s. Much like the stockings, the Knickerbocker Glory is traditionally designed to appear as a column of red and white horizontal stripes.

HACIENDA DE PALMERAS HOTEL AND RESTAURANT IS LOCATED ALONG PASONANCA ROAD, BRGY. STA. MARIA, ZAMBOANGA CITY. CALL (062) 991-3284 Photo by @26feblim on Instagram

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Chicco di Caffe Coffee-lovers in Davao City are in for a treat with Chicco di Caffe’s Coffee Halo-halo (P120). The regular halo-halo is given a bittersweet twist by fusing together our favorite toppings— macapuno, red beans, jackfruit, nata de coco, minatamis na saging, gulaman, and corn flakes with coffee! Shaved iced coffee is used instead of plain ice and coffee ice cream is scooped on top in place of the traditional ube ice cream. Not only will this dessert leave you feeling refreshed; it will also boost your energy with a wild kick of caffeine.

CHICCO DI CAFFE IS LOCATED AT FAURA ST, POBLACION DISTRICT, DAVAO CITY, DAVAO DEL SUR. CALL (082) 222-1898 Photo from Davao tourism website: davaotourism.com

Razon’s of Guagua Photo by Bryle Albao @lineaalbao on Instagram

Simplicity is the key to a perfectly delicious halohalo at Razon’s, a now popular food joint originating in Guagua, Pampanga. Made with only three ingredients—sweetened macapuno and minatamis na saging, with a wedge of leche flan on top, Razon’s Halo-halo (P100) utilizes this minimalistic combination to create a smooth blend of flavors that holds none of the usual halo-halo’s jarring contrasts, going perfectly well with the creamy milk and finely shaved ice. RAZON’S OF GUAGUA HAS 72 BRANCHES NATIONWIDE. VISIT WWW.RAZONSFOODCORP.COM.PH TO FIND THE NEAREST RAZON’S IN YOUR AREA. CALL (02) 611-5580 OR (02) 671-6263

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E AT L I S T

Home for the Rainy Days at F1 Need to get away from the stress of work but don’t have much time to travel out of town? Consider a fun-filled staycation at the F1 Hotel Manila, where the Rainy Day room package of P5,999 includes an overnight stay in the City Suite plus breakfast for two at F All Day Dining Restaurant, the use of the pool and gym, plus free unlimited wifi. Indulge in the restaurant’s All-American Feast on Fridays, featuring burgers, barbequed ribs, and the classic mac ‘n cheese in the buffet.

Cook with Comfort Most people who want to eat healthy are usually advised to cook their own food. Next to knowing how to select the freshest fruits, vegetables and lean protein, it’s also important to know how to buy the right cookware to cook low-fat meals. Tefal has recently introduced to the market a new cookware line called Comfort Max. This collection has thick high impact bonded bases that guarantee uniform heat diffusion. All of the pans in this product line features ergonomic, soft-touch and stay-cool handles for a comfortable grip. TEFAL’S COMFORT MAX COLLECTION IS AVAILABLE IN RUSTAN’S DEPARTMENT STORES

F1 HOTEL MANILA IS LOCATED AT 32ND ST. BONIFACIO GLOBAL CITY, TAGUIG. FOR INQUIRIES AND RESERVATIONS, CALL (02) 908-9888

Build a Burrito Don't you just love eating burritos? So why not take it up a notch and customize your own personalized burrito at Moe’s Southwest Grill? This newly opened casual dining restaurant offers the first build-your-own-burrito concept in the Philippines. With a selection of over 20 ingredients including steak, chicken, pork, as well as classic add-ons like beans and guacamole, you can order your burrito however you like it. You can even make your nachos and tacos! MOE’S SOUTHWEST GRILL IS LOCATED AT 4THFLOOR, UPTOWN MALL, BONIFACIO GLOBAL CITY. CALL (02) 246-9069 EXT. 327

Fruity Feast Marco Polo Ortigas brings Filipino Fusion to Cucina, their all-day dining restaurant, with an array of fruitlaced dishes with recipes coming from Manila, Cebu and Davao. A Filipino favorite, Crispy Pata is served with a twist—it’s stuffed with decadent foie gras and then topped with a tangy-sweet pineapple salsa. Travel to Davao with the Ceviche of Prawn with Grilled Calamari and Pomelo. From Marco Polo Cebu, Cucina offers an exciting Pasta Ravioli with Crabmeat and Mango. The Pina Manila Festival continues throughout the month of August.

Buffet by the Bay Cap off your visit to Manila’s premier heritage spots by having dinner at Hotel Jen Manila, a cosmopolitan hotel just five minutes away from the Manila Bay area. The themed dinner buffet at Latitude offers a wide range of appetizers, salads, and main course meals in six rotational themes from around the globe. Asian Flavors are featured on Mondays, Mexican-Spanish Aromas on Tuesdays, Jen’s Specialties on Wednesday s and Sundays, Pinoy Fiesta on Thursdays, Seafood Grill Night on Fridays and Barbecue Party on Saturdays. You even get a bottomless glass of Jen’s Signature Iced Tea and unlimited cups of coffee and hot tea. HOTEL JEN MANILA IS LOCATED AT 3001 ROXAS BOULEVARD, PASAY CITY. FOR INQUIRIES CALL (02)795-8888. VISIT WWW.HOTELJEN.COM

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MARCO POLO ORTIGAS MANILA IS LOCATED ALONG MERALCO AVE., SAN ANTONIO, PASIG, 1600 METRO MANILA. WWW.MARCOPOLOHOTELS.COM


ALI S T

Sofitel Philippine Plaza Manila Executive Chef Denis Vecchiato and French Cheese Master Colin Chandras

Recipe Box Chicken

40 44 38 34

Chicken Inasal Tacos Chicken Tinola sa Tanglad Sinampalukang Manok Talunang Manok Pork

28 Dinakdakan 20 Igado 25 Pork Pata with Hibe and Dried Mushrooms 16 Sinuglaw Fish and Seafood

18 29 42 24 23

Alimango’t Kangkong sa Gata Baked Prawns Rellenong Alimasag Samar-style Fish Escabeche Sweet and Sour Garlic Prawns Vegetables

Sofitel Philippine Plaza Manila Food and Beverage Manager Tanguy Gras, Executive Chef Denis Vecchiato, Resident Manager Alfredo Denage, Director of Sales and Marketing Alice Jenkins, French Cheesemaster Colin Chandras, Director of Food and Beverage Bilal Shafiq

22 17 36 36

Hinatukan Gulay Law-uy Poqui-poqui with Spinach Vegan Bicol Express Rice and Noodles

44 Chicken and Bacon Arrozcaldo 30 Vigan Miki

Bonjour, Mabuhay! July was an extra special month for Sofitel Philippine Plaza Manila when they held a series of celebrations throughout the hotel to commemorate the French National Day or Bastille Day. As a French brand, Sofitel takes pride in being on the forefront of gastronomy and culture. The festivities began with a cheese appreciation course offered at Spiral’s L’Epicerie from July 6 to 10 for lunch and dinner. Guests were introduced to a wide array of French cheeses from Fromage Bellevaire—their names, places of origin, and what kind of milk it was made with. Guests were also given guidelines on how to taste cheese —from the milder ones to the strongly flavored, blue-veined ones, with dried fruits and nuts as palate cleansers. Only July 11, Pascal Bellevaire, the owner of Fromagerie

Desserts

26 Bibingkang Cassava with Macapuno 46 Coconut Rum Cake Beillevaire, treated connoisseurs and gourmands to a special wine and cheese class at Spiral’s L’Epicerie. Throughout the month of July, the French Stove section at the Spiral buffet was abuzz with guests lining up to sample classical French dishes, paired with freshly baked French breads. At the Sunset Bar, a gastronomic dinner was celebrated with French provencal dishes that were paired with Chateau Routas wines. The month-long affair ended with an exclusive wine-appreciation class at Le Bar, featuring the enchanting flavors of French wine, guided by Sofitel’s Le Bar sommeliers.

Snacks

19 Ginanggang 21 Pinatarong Drinks

31 Classic Weng-weng 31 Gin Pomelo Slushie

For inquiries and F&B reservations, Call (02) 832-6988

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I H AV E A N A P P E T I T E

Culinary Ambassador Claude Tayag shares his love and fascination for Filipino food

(Left) We asked Claude: What’s the best thing you’ve heard about Filipino cuisine from a foreigner? “It’s so good, why have you been hiding it?”; (Below) Chef Claude's Bagnetta and Bringhe

Proud Kapampangan Claude Tayag shares his winning experience during the Embassy Chef Challenge (ECC) and spreading the love for our local cuisine As told to Angeli De Rivera Photographed by Ron Mendoza

CAN YOU TELL US WHAT IT WAS LIKE TO WIN THE PEOPLE’S CHOICE AWARD DURING THE ECC? My mantra on my way to Washington DC was, "how could I not win if I had behind me a centuries-old recipe from one of the world’s best-kept secret cuisine?" Then it was also matched by our world-class ingredients and supported by a very enthusiastic embassy staff, Philippine Airlines, US-Philippine Society, Seafood City Supermarket, 13 Degrees North, and the outpouring rah-rah support from kababayans. It was a collective triumph of the Filipinos and Filipino-American community. I had all the right ingredients for success and it was just a matter of properly executing it. WHY DID YOU CHOOSE BRINGHE AS THE DISH TO REPRESENT THE PHILIPPINES? It was narrowed down by the Philippine Embassy’s condition that I use Filipino products being marketed/available in the US, specifically Cordillera heirloom rice, bangus, and calamansi extract (bottled or frozen in sachets). Interpolating on these three products, I came up with a festive rice dish, which is what bringhe is actually, adding Cebu dried mangoes, Bicol pili nuts, and my secret ingredient, Claude’9 Taba ng Talangka (crab fat). WHY DO YOU THINK PEOPLE ARE BECOMING MORE INTERESTED IN FILIPINO FOOD AFTER ALL THESE YEARS? Confluence of many things, starting with foreign writers/TV hosts featuring (favorably) our cuisine like Anthony Bourdain, Andrew Zimmern, Bobby Chinn, Simon Majumbar, Tom Parker-Bowles; the DOT’s aggressive marketing pitch, under the helm of Sec. Ramon Jimenez, Jr., of promoting our country as a gastronomic destination, highlighted by the 5-year deal with Madrid Fusión Manila; the young Filipino-Americans in the US rediscovering and finally taking pride in our

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cuisine, with the sprouting of Filipino food trucks, pop-up, and brick-and-mortar restaurants all over the US. We were late bloomers in the international scene, but Pinoy cuisine has definitely taken off. How to sustain it should be the main concern now. YOU’VE TRAVELED TO SO MANY PLACES ALL OVER THE PHILIPPINES. WHICH REGIONAL CUISINES DO YOU PARTICULARLY LIKE? Ilocano cuisine. I can’t have enough of Batac empanada (make mine double-double, i.e. two eggs, two longganisa), bagnet, papaitan, and longganisa. Also Ilonggo cuisine for its tradition of grilling seafood with inasal marinade (calamansi/vinegar, garlic, achuete, and lemongrass), fresh oysters from Capiz, La Paz batchoy and lechon baboy. THE PHILIPPINES HAS A WIDE VARIETY OF LONGGANISA. WHICH ONES ARE YOUR FAVORITES? Longganisa from Guagua, Pampanga, which are small with natural intestine casing, with a balanced salty and sweet flavor then a bit of sourness from natural air-drying/ aging for several days. When deep-fried, the skin becomes crispy. [I also like] Alaminos, Tuguegarao, and Vigan longganisas. I enjoy [longganisa] best when toasted, fried, and dipped in a really spicy homemade cane vinegar (aslam atbu in Pampango). WHAT IS THE BEST THING ABOUT KAPAMPANGAN CUISINE? Though the traditional panlasa remains, Pampangos are generally open to the

introduction of foreign ingredients and cuisines, adapting and adopting them into our daily fare. WHEN YOU HAVE FOREIGN VISITORS IN TOWN, WHERE WOULD YOU BRING THEM TO GIVE THEM A TASTE OF FILIPINO REGIONAL CUISINE, ASIDE FROM PAMPANGA? In Iloilo City, there’s Breakthrough, Tatoy’s, and the original Deko’s Batchoy in La Paz Market. In Ilocos Norte, there’s the Batac’s empanadahan, Paoay’s Herencia Café and Rufino’s Café, Laoag’s La Preciosa, Saramsam and Dawang’s Place. In Ilocos Sur, there’s Vigan’s Kusina Felicitas, Bistro Amarillo, Flores Pots and Hidden Garden, and Candon’s Bistro Candon by chef Nic Rodriguez. COMPLETE THE SENTENCE: I HAVE AN APPETITE FOR… Pork, pork, pork–in all its countless glorious ways of preparing it–cured (bacon, ham, jamon iberico, longganisa); boiled (in soups with watercress, sinigang, tomatoes/pechay/ radish, squash, and its flowers); roasted (cochinillo, lechon, or whole roasted pig, boneless lechon porchetta); grilled (liempo, ribs); deep-fried (lechon kawali, crispy pata, chicharon, chicharong bulaklak, and bituka). In fact, my latest dish in 1956 Downtown Café is Bagnetta, a cross between the Ilocano bagnet and Italian porchetta. It’s a roast boneless pork belly roll, then deep-fried for a chicharon-like popped skin. It’s been so well received that it’s outselling our already famous crispy pata!




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