SKETCHES OF LIFE IN A SOUTHAMERICAN REPUBLIC ;
HISTORY OF THE LOAN OF
LATE SECRETAKY OF LEGATION AT THE COURT OF PERSIA AND COMMISSIONER FOR THE VENEZUELAN LOAN OF 1864. ;
AUTHOR OF "MUERAY'S HANDBOOK OF
" THE JOURNAL
WITH A MAP.
LONDON & HALL, 193, PICCADILLY. 1868.
Right of Translation
LONDON BRADBURY, EVANS, AND
LIBRARY UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA
PHILIP EOSE, ESQ., OF RATNERS, BUCKS.
pleasant visit to Venezuela.
therefore, if to anyone, these pages
ought to be inscribed
so glad of an opportunity to thank you publicly for
of friendship, that
allowing myself to consider
how much your name may
Thurloe Square, 1868.
the 7th of June, 1864, I was asked to go to
Venezuela as Financial Commissioner for the General Credit Company.
The appointment was Lord Hobart, and on
The terms were
were to be paid, and
was to receive one thousand
for three months, reckoning
from the day of
But the pleasure of seeing a new
country, and learning a
language, and the ex-
perience of financial transactions I should gain in such a mission, were to
saw him, about a
to the City
So, taking his
of June, the last time
expressing his sympathy, had ended don't
Besides, curiously enough, Mr.
been talking to I ever
words as a Sors Virgiliana,
accepted the Commissionersliip at once, purchased a
Spanish books, imbibed a draught of the pure
Castilian stream daily, in the shape of a lesson from
Dr. Altschul, glanced
and put aside
on board the steamer, a huge
and on the
Thomas, in the " Atrato," commanded by the
7th of June found myself en route
and the beginning of 1866,
wrote for Mr. Dickens some of the chapters which follow,
and they appeared
In those light sketches
general idea of Venezuela and I
have there written
in "All the
people, so that
otherwise in the grave part of the
have there striven to be as accurate as to pilot others
missions with as
not always to be taken au pied
book, which refers to the business of
to give a
who may go
out on similar
experience as myself, and
might, perhaps, be shipwrecked amongst dangers which
have never been properly buoyed.
— Juan — The Royal Mail Company— The Story In— Hat Island — Harbour of St. Thomas —A Battle with the Sharks — The "Virgin Islands — A Cruize among the Cemeteries —
Sailing on a Friday
Blockade Eunners— Voyage to La Guaira— The Death at Sea Islands
At La Guaira— Origin of the name "Venezuela" The Hottest Place on Earth The National Emblem Empirical Druggists The Negro
— Maquetia — Across
Bells and Belles — The — Drake, the Corsair— Site of Caracas — Creole Steeds and Creole Eiders — Bolivar's Cenotaph — Environs of Caracas — The Great Earthquake— Catholic Cemetery— Ker Porter's Chapel — The Toma— Mount Calvary
Amande — Caraqu^nian
Virgin and her Suitors
— Dishonesty the best policy — How to make the —Why Republics are always borro\ving — The Bull-Fight — Public Buildings at Caracas— Cave Canem— Godoy, the Negro Wit— The Venezuelan Cabinet— Maniac Visitors — The Minis-
Traits of Republican Life
to the top
Major Milligan's Mistake Ciudad Bolivar and the British Legion Fight between Sambo the Giant and tlie Irish Sergeant Luisa and Helena Panchito, the Enfant Terrible— Popping the Question Too much Alike How to Clear up a Blunder The Explanation too
Loan — Solemn — Mission of the
to obtain a
— The Contract — Rati-
by the Constituent Assembly The Financial Commissioner to Venezuela Painful Discoveries Reiterated Assurances and tlie Honour of the Republic Repledged Evasion baffled Final Warnings Breathing Time Symptoms of Change The fication of the Contract
— — —Utter Oblivion
CHAPTEK VII. Puerto Cabello— El Bailarin — The Indian Path — A Narrow Escape Yellow Westward Ho — Harbour of Puerto Cabello — How to Baffle
— Holy Crackers — On to Valencia
CHAPTEK VIII. The Sights of Valencia— A Republican Council —The Gran Plaza — The Cathedral — Morals of a Bull-fight A Mushroom in Cream — The Morro — The Cemetery — The Mountain of the Caves — A Boa Constrictor
CHAPTEK IX. Erminia— Break of Day at Valencia — Showing a Visitor the Lionesses A Creole Beauty— Love at First Sight —Valencian Lace-makers — The House of General Paez — The Fair Antonia— An Awkward Question The Malediction
how to find him — The Grand Army — Down with the — A Noble Revenge— Tocuyo — Personal Appearance of the Gran Mariscal — Conversation with the President
General Falcon, and
Carabobo— Joltings by the
the Posada at the Battle-field
Way — Mine
— Position of
host the Colonel, and
—The —Flight of the A pure Bravos— Eepulse of the Cavalry under Paez — Amniuuition exhausted— Bayonet Charge of the British — The Spaniards routed — Loss of the British — Bolivar's grateful Address — Results of the Victory The Advance from San Carlos— The Night
before the Battle
—The Lake of Tacarigua—Adieu to Valencia —A Coffee Hacienda— Recruiting under Difficulties — The Beautiful Vale of Araguas — Maracai — Palmar— Victoria — Consejo — Las Coquillas— Up the Mountains — Life in the Jungle Limon and Los Teques— The Frenchman's Story— Return to Caracas — A parting Benediction
to Las Tinajas
CHAPTER Difficulty of
forming an exact estimate of the Resources of Venezuela
Configuration and Area of the Country
— Codazzi's Division of
— Distribution into Provinces — Chief
— Popidation — Form of Government— Revenue— Debt — Mineral and Vegetable Products
CHAPTER Relations of Venezuela with
Venezuela by England in
men and money— History
—Causes of the Decay of English Influence — The Question of — Plans Solving the Difficulty— The Foreign View — The Appeal to Force — TheCompensation Plan— The Best
p. 126, lines 6, 18,
â€” for Engelckye,
p. 127, lines 5
also at p. 128,
SKETCHES OF LIFE IN A SOUTH-AMERICAN REPUBLIC.
CHAPTER L TO VENEZUELA.
Sailing on a Fiidaj^— Juan— The Royal Mail
Company The Story interrupted—Hat Island— Harbour of St. Thomas— A Battle with the Sharks The Vii-gin Islands — A Cruise among the Cemeteries Blockaderunners Voyage to La Guaira— The Death at Sea— Aves Islands At Anchor.
a propos of that,
our teeth, we
they look more like Grinders
confounded wind continues dead in
as soon as
I uttered these words without addressing myself to
any person in particular,
in fact, there was no one near servant, who, like
knew no one on enough
was leanmg over the
watching the pilot drop astern.
I looked at
was seven minutes past seven, on the 17th of June
there was a strong breeze right
ahead, and the weather did not look altogether so propitious
/ /7 /> LX> '
should do on a
was an excellent
six feet five inches in his boots,
himseK an Englishman. been in one
service only a few days,
of his peculiarities.
and was now
on the occui'rence of anj'thing which others
flow of spu'its
regarded as dej^ressing. a good
his heart, and, like
natives of Santa Cruz and Saint
English, loved England with
Juan, was a fine specimen of a Santa Cruz man.
simple contretemps put him in
but a disaster made him jocular, and the
graver the case the more he was elated.
exclamation he turned round approvingly, and said, " Yes,
but we'll have a rough night of
hur-red no good of sailing on a Friday."
Indies to which
going, and on Friday,
the 12th of October, he did discover San so
from where you were born
and on Friday,
the 1st of March, 1493, he saw land on his return
he ought to have seen thick." fact,
Why, on Friday, man than Christoval
Colon sailed from Lagos to discover the
"that's a mere prejudice.
the 9th of August, 1492, no less a
" Pooh, j)ooh,
the weather had not been rather
I said the last Avords with some hesitation,
encountered a regular tormenta ;
on his homeward voyage,
I recollected that Colon,
Portugal, and was near
so that the thuxl Friday was rather against me.
Juan, however, as became a
of his inches, was not to
be beaten from his opinion, and said nothing about Columbus,
SAILING ON A FEIDAY. better
man, leastways made more voyages 'tween 'Merica
as Avell as I do
he was a ship's steward, and spoke English
he never hur-red no good of sailing
So saying, and laymg a pecuharly grating
on a Friday."
emphasis on the word hiu'-red, Juan stalked oif. " Confound the fellow " said I to myself, "
but he makes
melancholy with his forebodings.
imagine anythmg like risk
sand tons and upwards
which Columbus made the long-boat there.
a grand vessel of three thou-
voyages, was hardly so large as
no exaggeration to say that she
would scarcely have carried the admiral's potted meats,
over twenty tons.
which the steward
true, however, that
though the voyage from Lagos to Gua-
nahari was three thousand and forty miles as
voyage from the coast of
and thence to
often less dangerous than crossing one of the
in our voyage there
of Biscay to be crossed,
have risks of their own. bodings
great lakes of Switzerland.'
sea on the
scarcely attended with an}^ event Avhicli deserves
from Southampton to Saint Thomas, which
hundred and forty-seven more
and steamers, however grand,
So, after finishing
I went to smoke a cigar in the allowable place before the funnel,
was awoke in the morning
several small voices crying all
a hideous jabber of
at once, " Steward
steward B 2
vy I say
you many times
Vy you by your own This reminded me of
vat I vant ? "
TroUope's grinning Frenchman and his rotten walnut
incontinently I laughed effect of
neighhom^s and stilhng the clamour.
cabin I was astonished to see outside the
next cabm door fom* such Lilliputian
that I could not but
bours must be
which had the
to the conclusion that
voices of middle age.
Spanish Creoles have
voices were the
Afterwards I discovered that the feet as tiny as those of Cliinese ladies,
but of a natm'al tininess, and without deformity. Travelling per steamer little
more of crossing the Atlantic
vessels of the
in one of the gigantic
Royal Mail Steam Packet Compan}^, or of
the Cmiard line, than of passing a river on a bridge. river," says the old Sanscrit proverb, " is crossed,
Foiu'teen days, or so, of short whist
bad cigars and pleasant yarns, of
hot cahns and cold gales, a transfer of cash and the voyage
admu-able system organised
of such an association as the Royal Mail
and the conse-
which so many voyages,
at all seasons,
duties of ever}^ individual (juent safety with
are performed, deserve
given to the subject.
more consideration than
prospectus and the book of regulations of the company,
which dates from 1830 fomid that
and setting myseK
one company now owns a
fleet of tw^enty-
three steamers, of forty-five thousand eight
THE EOYAL MAIL
and eleven thousand four hundred and seventy
average some thirty-five
convey on an
thousand passengers yearly, and
over twenty miUion of dollars in specie, besides other valu-
There are prizes in such a
make from one thousand
two thousand pounds
senior captain draws one
thousand two hundred in cash, and has his hving and
other captains, with like advantages in
other respects, get one thousand per amium.
Southampton, where they
and then- duties are
live at free quarters.
the large steamers there are four or captain,
proportionahly well paid.
second has charge of the treasure,
and accompanies the Admu-alty's agent on shore with the mails, the third is
and fourth stow the cargo.
charge of the ship at night. There
board the vessel in which I was passenger were
well feel at ease in a vessel so provided.
I soon became acquainted with most of the passengers.
admii-al with a fine bold nose, a baronet with a romantic
name, a captain of the race of England's naval demi-gods, several
and not a few pretty planters'
general, a few lively
of Creole nondescripts.
and learning Spanish. or senoritas of
Frenchmen, and a score
time in pla3ing chess
Unfortunately, there were no seiioras to be taught.
There was, however,
a young aide-de-camp to the President of Peru, sessed so to
by the hour, though
in pm'e Castillano
not comprehend more than one word in a hundred. theless,
patience and amiability, that he would talk
by the time we reached the Azores, I had made
some progress, and had even once asked publicly dinner-table, in Spanish, for the mustard.
we passed the
of June, at 4 a.m., that
two of the group.
homeward, a very great
directly in the course out, but
outward bound captains
was the 23rd
to the west.
the islands, for the
currents in the Atlantic are so strong and so various that
no reckoning can be perfectly
current from east to west, and there
a hot cuiTent, from west to east; and there are
and abnormal currents, and a
which has a periphery of
three thousand eight hundred leagues, and a log of
di'opped into the sea opposite Senegal would go, as
other sticks do, " on
and retmii to
place in two years and ten months.
jDassed, I say, the
Azores on the 23rd of June, and
forthwith the weather waxed hot.
had not yet caught
the trade-wmds, and, though there were occasional squalls,
on the whole
was particularly close and oppressive.
had been placing chess and I was
with a rather lurid sky at night.
lazily talking to
antagonist, a good-
lookuig Frenchman, who, though he was, he informed me, tliirty-five,
looked like a mere youth, owdng to an entire
of beard, whiskers,
THE STORY INTEEEUPTED. people,
some reading, others plajdng chess
or lounged aroimd us.
or draughts, sat
was a dead calm, and the polished
miiTor of the sea gave back the sun's rays with interest.
" Monsieur voyage pom* son " Pom-
man, with some
plaisir?" repeated the French-
" Quoi, monsieiu%" said
on iny elbow,
raising myself a little
marchand de bottes a
The Frenchman opened
reply, but just at that
une fabrique de bottes
suis medecin, monsieur, et j'ai aussi
les affaires ?
there was a tremendously
loud crash, followed by a strange whizzing noise, and almost
immediately afterwards if
a succession of terrific thuds, as
some Cyclops had suddenly commenced hammering
At the same time showers
screams of ladies, questions of
along the deck, so as
the funnel from sight.
from the starboard paddle-box, and a dense
cloud of steam and smoke burst
Great confusion of
shouted in various lan-
guages, rushes of sailors amid the cloud of steam, oaths
to the din.
of terrible uncertainty^
some other catastrophe was expected by the foreigners
who had been
exactly as I did
sneering at religion
out, suddenly betook themselves to prayer.
some years ago
to see in
in a railway accident.
In both cases I expected every moment to be
yet the most trivial circumstances did not escape me, while
general thought was, as I looked at the
and quiet sleep of Natm'e, that a \iolent death was
Half a minute, perhaps, had passed, but
seemed a long
time, and I was rushing forward to see what really had
happened, when I
and the huge
myself stopped by a powerful arm,
stopped, the captain -mil soon put matters to rights,
one can Friday.
I never hur-red
" I have got finely scalded
of no use.
Juan blocked the way.
here," he said, with a grin
good from saiHng on a
Destiny, however, was for this time to let us
onlj^ a fright.
The thundering blows ceased with
stoppage of the engines, the steam and smoke gradually cleared
away, and the hubbub
learned that the
was then we
which comiects the paddle-
wheels with the machmer}^ had suddenly snapped,
a snag, had caught
round with each revolution of the engines,
smashing the paddle-box and everything near
confusion there had been an upset of hot coals and an escape of steam, which scalded several men, and ch'ove the others out of the engine-room.
The danger some
of the late accident
was soon forgotten, and
who had been most alarmed were unmercifully
About one short
were never endmg.
Creole in particular the jokes
was in his cabin when the crash
took place, and fancying from the smoke and steam which entered his quarters that the ship was on
contrived to thrust his corpulent body through the round
window, though one would have thought
too small for the
THE PROFESSOE'S EUSE. passage of a
From and made his
scrambled on deck,
and with a
as every one declared, considerably elongated
through the bull's-eye.
appearance, steaming with
perspiration, with one sleeve of his coat torn face
the damages were repaired
not, but, in a
much as usual so much so, indeed, that the Frenchman, who had told me he was doctor and bootmaker at once, could now finish liis story and explain himself. " When I commenced my career," said he, " I found that no one would trust me to prescribe, few hom's, we were going on
on account of
sulted a friend,
of Greek. friend
In despair, I con-
dear fellow, with that
never have a patient.
a certain college in which a
have the place
said to me,
child's face of yours,
the Greek professor
In vain I protested that I knew nothing
shall have the place.'
Accordingly, I found
myself at the college, with a letter of introduction to the lectm-er,
who had been temporarily
the defunct professor of Greek.
discharging the duties of
had counted on several
the letter, he
to see you,
and to resign
days to prepare myself, but, on handing said, in a
students will be ready for you in ten
man to show you the lectm-e-room.' my laiees tremble under me, and my
I will send a
At that moment
uneasiness was so great, that I almost resolved to
an omnibus I saw pass, drive to the station, and return to Paris.
I fomid myself at the lecture-room,
and just then a lucky thought occurred
youi'selves,' I said to the students,
to the next,
The reading and
left to say.
no one had any-
the corrections occupied
at the next I shall
senior colleague congratulated
tickled with the novelty of
career of a physician, and assured
was born to be a professor
I longed, however, to return
employment, and, as I did not see
fame was great among the
France, I went out to Lima, where I married a Creole, of dysentery, and, as I could not recover
Peru, I opened a shoe-shop,
returned to Paris, and I
and managed to
deliver a discoui'se, and, in the meantime, I
of hearing that
have more to say
when the next seance came,
great industry, prepared myself a
how do you
mentioned one or two blunders, and I
a long time, at the end of which I said, the
he had finished, I said
then put the same question to others, thing
mistakes has he made, and
Now,' I continued, when they had done
last examination. so,
wife in charge of
going out to bring
daughter to be educated."
Next day we arrived within the
the 30th, on which day, at seven p.m.,
made, as the
sailors say, the little island of
twenty feet above the level of the sea its
It is only three-quarters of a mile long
nine hundred feet broad
influence of the trade-
had now frequent squalls and thimder and
fancied resemblance to a cardinal's hat.
HAT ISLAND. was uninliabited, except 'only place of landing
sea-fowl and black lizards
at a bight
on the west
getting on shore was what Yankees would term a caution to
favourable circumstances," says a
nautical writer, " by watching an opportunity, you
ledge to the
to a flat
and with some
ascend to the summit."
would make a landing anywhere, and as there was abundance of guano on the rock, the Americans of
and we saw them hard
had taken possession
work with cranes and
loading vessels with the precious deposit.
on the 1st
harboui' of St.
July we anchored
I looked in vain for the
steamer wliich I expected would be ready to convey
shown a schooner of about
eighty tons, wliich was to sail next day for
Viewed from the decks of the gigantic Koyal Mail Steamer, she looked hke a cockle-shell.
Spite of the heat, I landed
and went straight to the store of a young merchant,
was a handsome fellow of about
bright blue eyes and curly hair, and
with such an overpowering share of good nature that other quahties seemed absorbed by excellent brand}^,
Then we began
and I happened
the schooner was
of commissions, all of at a cooler
to talk about the harbour,
to ask if there
host biightened up, and said
like to see a few, I'll
better cigars, and
was agreed should be executed
show you some.
"If you would
with a boat to the
and a harpoon, and
We'll tow the carcase
of the harbour, take a couple of
sooner said than done.
Orders were at once
given to drag the dead horse to the water's edge, and host, followed
and the harpoon, walked down to the boat.
large boat, mtli four rowers
men, notwithstanding the
by mj^self and a big negro, who carried the
and as the boat-
heat, pulled with a will,
and before long had got past the steamers, and
were nearing the mouth of the harbour. nothing, and
yet I had seen
was becoming rather impatient.
said I, " I don't believe there are any sharks.
seen a single back
I have not
checked the rowers for a moment, when, as the surge we
subsided, several dark lines showed themselves just
astern of the horse.
" Give way," said he to the boatmen;
" we have not yet reached the place where we can
we stop another half-minute the horse
further, he said to
will be torn to
and four conical
ready ? "
and look out
right into his belly.
stop, the sharks will rise,
the boat had gone a few hundred yards
tmnis to seize the horse,
" Quite ready," I replied, and the
In an instant the dark lines were
time they came rapidly up to the surface, and sharks showed themselves.
apparition was so sudden,
and the sharks were so huge, so much larger than any I had seen before, that I started, and, had I cocked
A BATTLE WITH THE SHARKS. had been told sent
to do, there is
not to cock
no knowing where I might have has alwa^^s been
I see the object
In a moment I recovered myself,
making many a bad miss.
and, as the foremost shark tm-ned on his back and darted at
the carcase, I took good aim, and fired nearly at the same
moment with my them, as
The smoke came
we afterwards found, going
right through the heart. eyes,
tremendous splash, and I caught an indistinct glimpse of the monster as he sprang half out of the water and
the same instant, the big negro
into the shark just below the lower
such force, that, had he had more Hfe in him than remained,
he would hardl}' have escaped.
who sank surface,
Meantime, the other sharks,
moment when we
and one of them had
had risen again to the
alread}' torn a gi'eat bit out of
the horse, giving such a violent jerk to the boat, that one of the niggers took fright,
and before we could see what he
was about, undid the rope by which the carcase was bemg towed, and
was immediately jerked into the water as the
other sharks fastened on the prey.
with such right
This they did will,
reload and prepare for another shot, they had dragged the
we could only
carcase under water, and
and bloody foam what a ever,
we had got one monster
by the bubbles
going on below.
reached the landing-place there was
crowd to receive
took eight or ten
drag the shark on shore, and we fomid he measured over sixteen feet long, and nearly six feet in circumference.
stomach was quite empty, which accounted
for his being
I was glad of a bath and a change of toilet, after which friend drove
in his carriage
round the west part of the
which some description may be acceptable.
begin then with the beginning, be
the eighteenth and nineteenth degrees of north latitude, a to the east of Porto Rico, in an almost continuous
cluster, lie the
Islands, so called
the eleven thousand of
Thomas, and next
All the islands to the east of St.
these islets seemed to vie.
by Colmnbus from
east, is St.
the west belong to the Danes.
want of high-flown
for example, Salt Island, followed
Next we come
the English possessions by the roughness of the
clature and the utter
Camanoe, Scrub, Guano,
and Jost- van-Dykes Isles. Then there is Anegada, or " Drowned Island," famous or infamous for wrecks, where
awash with the
seaman has gone
to his rest beneath the
a curious place that Anegada. sea,
and when the mist comes up,
very often, one would fancy the waves were rolling clean over
ten miles long, and has a reef to the
south-east of nine miles more, and
scores of vessels have gone to jjieces.
to the west there
good anchorage, and abundance of funnel-shaped
full of fresh water, in
which, curiously enough, the fresh
water rises with the salt
there in the old
they were gone,
time swarmed with buccaneers.
THE VIEGIN ISLANDS. came gangs of wreckers and colonised the stock, and grew cotton
but their true market-day
a vessel struck on the reef, and man}^ a rich prize they got,
and perhaps do get even now.
westerly current in the Atlantic
where the fishermen find
curious proof of the strong is to
be seen at Anegada, them, from
sufficient cork di'ifted to
the coast of Spain, to supply their nets.
launched in the Eiver Gambia, have been picked up in the Yii-gin
Between these islands themselves, the
cmTents are in many places most island to island
most dangerous and ahnost impossible boats have been swept away, and their
Between the eastern part of
crews drowned, in the attempt.
the Island of St. John, in particular, there
a furious cm-rent,
To row from
and the waves
the southern tide
in its strength,
impossible for an}- small vessel to encounter that terrible sea.
to the west of
Yii'gin" Island, nine miles long and a mile broad,
with some ten thousand inhabitants,
Gorda Sound, and another Bay, and a
a good harbom*, called
to the north-west, called
miles west of Yii-gm Gorda,
to the south.
Tortola, nine miles long and
three broad, with a population of eleven thousand, and a
with Tortola to the north, St. John's to the west, Yii-gin
to the east,
and a dozen
islands to the south,
natm'e has formed a magnificent basin, fifteen miles long
and three and a half broad, land-locked and sheltered from
every wind, where
the navies of
not choose Tortola as the station for the
Eoyal Mail Company's vessels
go to St. Thomas,*
that nest of yellow fever, where fresh water is hard to get,
and which belongs to a foreign power ?
able to answer this
same why, I retm-n
twelve miles long from east to west,
and across the whole length of
the highest point of which
above the sea.
were once covered
with woods, and the island was then watered by rivulets
but the improvident Danes cut down the woods, the streams
dried up, and the inhabitants
from drought, inso-
that the captains of steamers are enjoined to
fresh water, lest none should
Charlotte Amalia, the
so that vessels to
on the south
be proem-able at St.
and harbour of
to the south,
coming from Europe or North America have ^
a half-cii'cle to enter
a rock called French-
man's Cap, seven miles from the harbom-'s mouth, and four miles further on there steer,
but in mid-channel
Eock," with only twenty-one cleared that (and there
enter the harbour
danger called " Scorpion
feet of water
was written more
to help you), its
being ninety-five feet
can be seen fifteen miles
having on your right, at
lighthouse, the red light of which,
Between these you
tliau a year before the last great hurricane at St.
Frederick's Batter}^, and the Great Carenage, where vessels
can be moored dm-ing hurricanes.
however, are three other dangers.
Frederick's Point; and then, a
Prince Eupert's Eock;
east of the mid-channel,
and further the
Thomas has been and vdth justice. The port
of the harbour of St.
extolled by a well-known writer, itself is of a
and close to
rocks called the Triangles.
Lastly, there are coral rocks in the harbour
a shoal which juts out the length of a cable from
the very entrance,
horse-shoe shape, and, having entered, the town
right before you, rising in three triangles, Tvith a glittering
In the backgi'ound
white building to crown each apex. rise
hnis of the brightest green, rendered more dazzUng
by the clearness of the atmosphere.
harbour runs out into a long creek, too shallow to be crossed except by boats.
the right of the
Fort, garrisoned by half a regiment of Danes, and artillerjTnen.
Above, on the
hills, is a
tower, where in the
Close by the
good old times lived a notable buccaneer. fort are the King's
aromid are such lovely bunches of flowermg
almost to make one in love with the "white man's
trees, as gi-ave."
I had been
in the afternoon, but
expedition against the sharks
spuits went down.
something fearfully depressing in
and the smells unbearable
and the talk
Sharks and yellow fever in the harbour,
yellow fever and gi'inning black stifling,
in the town, the heat
this is the
who died on
and such a one who was not exhilarating.
with a row of miserable
Cemetery, with size
shambles at the water's edge. huts
to die to-morrow.
the left was the shallow stagnant
the right, were more
There was the Moravian
the slabs of exactly the same height and
and there was the Jews' Cemetery, and the Catholic
Cemetery, and what might be called the Omnibus Cemetery, for
what the well-known writer befor§ referred
terms the Hispano-Dano-Yankee-doodle-niggery-population-
host, the best of
never hipped himself, had no idea of comforting a
was in low
asking, out of the gloominess of
heart, " Is there any yellow fever here just now
"Well, the yellow fever
are considered rather clear.
It is true
—there have been next mine —but only three
and, for myself, I have no sort of apprehension, for I
I asked about the state
and change the " Well," of the colon}^
"the American war has been pumpkins
house alone has cleared upwards of since
Thomas man, and natives seldom suffer. In I could is the new comers who get in for it."
only mutter, " Consolatory, subject.
there have been a few scattered cases for instance, in the
began, and two or three other houses have been
doing nearly as well.
It's pretty, too, to see
runners lying under the very noses of the Northern men-ofwar.
'em load, up anchor, and
mustn't chase 'em for four-and-twenty hours, though they loiow,
they've a good start there's no chance of takhig them.
The times have been
of the Confederate vessels have
with the sailors.
had so many
EngUsh have jomed
Federal men, and the good-will, first
and then on the other, that now
any Americans land."
" besides these rows,
how do you amuse
" AYell," was the reply, " we
After our drive we dined at the hotel.
sisted of all the St.
fights with the
in with such jolly
indigestible dishes conceivable,
rigueur to eat of
I went to
bed with a racking headache, and in a state highly favourable
without an attack, and released of the mosquitoes.
shops to make
Juan came on board
at the last
me from boatman who brought me on
"Of com-se;" and begged him
Guaii-a in the schooner
the importunity of the negro
friend to several
m}" letters to
the time I was at St.
"Friends on shore,
the tender mercies
went round with
and hj noon was sailing
who asked two poimds
for the job,
legal charge was only one dollar and eighty-two cents.
got rid of
at last for three dollars.
AVe ran out of St. Thomas's harbour on the 23rd of July with a
of the Isabel consisted of a
men, and a boy, each blacker than the other,
and aU of an extremely hang-dog look. thousand sovereigns on board, did not timible
seems a miracle that they
quietly into the water
of the Isabel, however, were pirates only in look,
among them nothing more important than
on deck in a sort of hencoop, in which
were not more vermin than are
meals, over which the captain j^resided in his shirt-sleeves,
were principally of land-tortoise, hard sour cheese, pickles, dried
with nameless ingredients,
an excellent vegetable, and almost the only
thing I could eat.
It is the oki"o hibiscus,
the look of a young cucumber, and
full of a cold gluten,
There was a Creole
very pleasant in a hot climate.
with two or three small children, who lived in the cabin or hold of the
and never made her appearance on deck
throughout the whole passage. Once or twice, during a squall, I descended to this cabin, and found
roaches, and rats.
of ants, cock-
Creole, half undressed, lay gasping
with the heat, while her children, in a state of perfect nudity, scrambled
Besides this lady, myself,
Juan, and an American doctor, there was also another passenger
a thin feeble old man,
with great care.
which turned out
his servant for a cigar,
stramonium, for the
and to say
who was brought on board
this of a
saying a good deal.
we were passing the
belonging to the Danes.
island of Santa Cruz,
shows his appreciation of the healthiness of his
living at Santa Cruz,
thirty-two miles south of
nineteen miles long and five
broad, and contains a population of
Thomas own island
THE DEATH AT hill,
Blue Mountain, which
a harbour very difficult of
passed Santa Cruz
last cigar, I
slept soundly, except for I
and Fredericksted to
enough when once entered.
access, but safe
and another near
but sixty feet lower.
At the former there
well cultivated. after
Eagle, which rises to one thousand one hundred
two towns,*Christiansted to the the west.
the sun set
a few minutes about midnight,
soon went to sleep again with an indistinct idea of
something disagreeable going on.
red horns of the
sun were just showing above the horizon, when Juan came up
and woke me, under pretence of askmg
but I could see by the grin on his featm-es that there was
being able to
himself any longer, he exploded into a chuckle, and said, " There's a dead
"Indeed?" repHed I, by no means gratified. "And pray who may he be, and what does he come on board for, if
he's dead ?
Juan, "it's the old man, the passenger
About midnight he got worse, and
the captain, and asked to be thrown overboard, he was in
captain said he could not accommodate
in that way, but he
would get some hot fomentations,
that would ease the jDain in his chest.
matter,' says the passenger.
him where the moon
the captain had showed
said very quietly,
moon?' was, he
the moon goes down I shall die.' You would hardly believe it, but at the moon went down, the old man died." '
so he did, sir.
for the doctor ? " I inquired.
Did he ask
" Ask for the doctor " Wh}^,
I should think not," said Juan, in
the doctors in
have saved him; nor they couldn't have done him
gone for that."
I walked forward to bathe, and there I saw a sad bundle wliich told its
was the corpse sewn up in a
hammock, with some six-pound gun of the schooner, attached,
shot, belonging to the
wards, a short prayer was said by the captain, and the body
was launched into the fast
fast that it
was gone before a dolphin that had been
playmg about the bows, and darted out
splash meant, could reach the spot.
incident was a painful one, and conjured up melan-
There were only about a dozen of us in
the schooner, reckoning crew and passengers together, and
one was gone.
would be to
I could not helj? thinking
on board that
but a hencoop to rest on, and only the American doctor for a medical attendant.
considering where great wonder if
Right glad was
we came from,
we had had I,
heat was overpowermg,
would have been no
a visit from the yellow fever.
2 p.m. on the 4th we
passed the rock of Ochilla, one of the Aves Islands, which
Hes only eighty miles to the north of
about ten miles
two miles in an easterly direction.
length, and a verj^ dangerous reef pro-
a sunken rock, not given in the maps, on which
a small vessel was totally lost about a year before
Her crew had
scarcely time to take to the boats
AT ANCHOR. There are from two hundred
tons of guano on Ochilla, which
be worth twelve pounds
me, for one of the
claims I Avas going out to settle was called the Aves Island
The Americans had gone
to a rock of that
nearer St. Thomas, to collect guano, and had been stopped
by the Venezuelans, who maintain that the Ares Islands
belong to them.
Americans now claimed one hundred and dollars of the to
have plated the whole
this demui'rer, the fifty-five
hours after passmg Ochilla, we saw the great moun-
La Silla, or " The Saddle," which overhangs La The SUla is eight thousand six hundred feet high, Guaira. and we saw it at seventy miles' distance. As the sun set, we discerned the lights at La Guaira, but the wind now fell, At one moment we were or came only in fitful gusts. tain called
at the rate of nine
seemed, on shore
knots an hour, straight, as
for the land, being
stupendous moimtain, appeared
we were becalmed, with
and we might have drifted on shore for
carried us to our
nigger captain and his crew, however, being used to
all sail set,
flapping so heavily as to banish sleep ft'om
overshadowed by this
CHAPTER At La Guaira
— Origin of the name
" Venezuela"— The hottest place on earth Druggists The Negro Artillery-Man Maquetia Across the Mountain to Caracas.
—The National Emblem — Empirical
— Singular Nomenclature — Anchorixg so at
in a harbour usuall}^ implies rest.
open roadstead, there
and often dangerous.
blows very heavily, is
the wind at north, the
and a general smash among the
directly to leeward,
ever a high swell, so high that landing
Luckily, such winds are most
but some time before the arrival of the Isabel there
was one, and every vessel
La Guaira was
with other winds the danger
sometimes great, and then a
fort as a signal that the rollers are
ships run out to sea
anchors are weighed, and the
the swell moderates.
one of the inscrutable things that no one can understand,
why La Guaira should be made the port for Caracas at all, when a mile or two to the west, on the other side of the next promontor}', Cabo Blanco, there Catia,
whence an easier road
the snug harbour
to Caracas might be made than
has caused the loss of so
in spite of the swell which vessels,
which makes com-
munication with the shore so troublesome, and which
ORIGIN OF THE XA:ME
up the sand in a fashion that renders anchors every eight days, locked
necessary to weigh
shoukl become sand-
lest the ships
in spite of the ravages of the barnacles, the teredo
navaHs, la broma, as the Spaniards call them, more destructive at
La Guaira than
which seems still
" So this self,
anj^where else in the world, commerce,
to be the only conservative thing its
Venezuela, Little Venice," thought I to my-
lay tossing; " can't say I see
to Venice in these great mountains, that look as
been piled up by Titans to scale a
city in the clouds
there, through all the vast region now much to remind one of the city of the doges. But it is La Guamx that the unlikeness comes out most forcibly.
happens, though no one seems to have remarked Guaii-a lies
way between Cape
Paria, on the extreme east,
La Guaira the
so that, instead of thinldng of Venice,
cries out with
Humboldt, " The Pp-enees or the Alps
and the Atlantic one
of the Venezuelan coast
Chichibocoa, on the extreme west, and just at
stripped of their snows, have risen from the
coast, the Conquistadores,
the Indians of Maracaibo living in huts on piles in the lake,
and so called that locahty Venezuela
and the misnomer
till a region four times the size of Prussia " came to be styled Little Venice " a name which now com-
spread and spread
prehends a forest larger than France, steppes Gobi, and mountain tracts wliich zerlands to match.
like those of
would take many Swit-
abominable saltatory movements of the Isabel,
I could have passed hours very contentedly with a fragrant cigar in is
my mouth, gazmg
from the sea
one of the most picturesque places in the world.
boldt says there
rim of shore,
at the foot of a
greatness of nature.
effect is lost.
save Santa Cruz, at the
the town, perched
like a world's finger-post
man and the
island of Teneriffe, where, as at
to the littleness of
Once landed, much
then no more such startling contrast
strip of white building at the sea's level,
huge blue, black, and green masses of rock and earth heaped up into the very clouds
to trace the long line of fortification to height.
no longer so easy
mounting from height
Moreover, a mountain that starts up
eight thousand feet from the sea, into the clouds, sight,
and I looked and mused long.
mterrupted by those common-place, matter-of-fact fellows, the custom-house ofiicers,
who came on board punctually
6 A.M., and showed at once that they had more of the Paul
Pry than the poet in their
nearly the whole
revenues of the country,, and the whole of their salaries (report says,
somethmg more than the
whole), are drawn
custom-house, there was some excuse for their
energetic proceedings, which would, no doubt, have termi-
nated in a rigid scrutiny of
boxes, had I not
been armed with the name of commissioner and a diplomatic passport.
sight of that document, the official tartness of
their aspect sweetened to a smile,
and they invited
ashore in their large comfortable boat
such a place as
no shght favour
AT LA GUAIEA.
Watching the auspicious moment when the frolicsome surge pitched the
hmding-place on the
of the boat up within a foot of the
prevented from falling back by half a dozen arms and hands,
at every accessible part of
outran his discretion, giving
as he clutched hold of
myself in a glow
I stood for the
one fellow, sharp pinch
I was safe, however
me me a
time on American ground,
perhaps, from en-
thusiasm than from the intense heat consequent on the exertion of jumping from that tossing boat. reality,
no great room
now shut was so fish
Some dingy buildmgs
out the view of the mountains, and the atmosphere
and so impregnated with the odour of decapng
and other things
worse, that no enthusiasm covdd
would be well
the Venezuelans, so
proud as they are of their country, so sensitive of
would prepare a
In other countries, foreigners who are to be
j)ropitiated are presented with
bouquets of flowers. Columbia
traveller with a
They were working away at had
There was, in
bouquet of a
the wharf and breakwater, which
ah-eady, they said, cost one
hundred thousand pounds,
though I suppose a tenth of that sum would have more than covered the outlay in England.
Earth was coming down in
buckets, which travelled on long ropes fastened at a considerable incline to posts at an eminence across the road,
These buckets came along
with an impetus sufficient, had they struck a passer-by, to
his brains out
an accident which might easily have
happened, for the ropes were stretched just at the height of
man, and no one gave any warning of
of the wharf
nondescrij)t building fort,
was the harbour-master's house, and a
Creole clerks were idling.
the custom-house, and to the
right, rose a long straggling line
of filthy huts,
with naked darkie children.
walked straight to the custom-house, a strong useful
building, but not picturesque. cial
rank, for the
stepping-stone to the portfoUo of finance, received shirt-sleeves, with the inevitable cigarette in his
on reading the General
letter of introduction I
usual in his
had brought from
Blanco, shook hands, and told
me he had
been the general's A.D.C. in the war just concluded. sun was already disagreeably hot, and
a few hundred yards up the principal of the two streets
with a branch or two climbing the
house of the merchants to heard not a I
of the wealth of the
could not help venting
take refuge in the hospitable
La Guaira merchants,
astonishment in a hearty
caramha, when I entered the house.
huge outer door
opened into a square court-yard, smelling strongly of meric, and half filled with bales of merchandise.
was two-storied, the lower storey containing a offices, wdiile
The house set of
the upper was divided into bed-rooms, but the
whole building looked so dirty and dilapidated, that I asked myself, "
this be the residence of a
of the partners, in whose apartment I found a piano,
explained the mystery.
THE HOTTEST PLACE ON EARTH.
There are only three or four tolerable houses in La Guaira, and he had been in vain trying to get one.
This was simply
a "warehouse, and the other partners lived at Caracas. Juan,
a mulatto servant, and a nigger boy,
off for a
sphere was at
me, and raised such clouds of dust
time the mosquitoes, of which the atmo-
are a peculiarly sharp-stmging sort
La Guaira small, speckled, and insatiable, now fairly installed. The first thing that :
was the intense heat.
had not then read Humboldt's
Table, in which he compares the climates of Guaira, Caii'o,
Habana, Vera Cruz, Madras, and Abushahr, but without his assistance I arrived at his conclusion, that I was
convejing to a European an idea of the heat, the
Perhaps the best way of
hottest place in the whole world.
Guau-a, in the coldest month,
four degrees of centigrade higher than that of the hottest
be added that there are no aj^pliances
whatever to make things bearable
â€” no good houses, no
no cold water, no shade, and no breeze, to arrive at a faint notion of the reality.
well situated for promptly realising a just idea of the climate, for m}^ it,
room had but one small window, and when
there came in a perfume which obliged
locality was, indeed,
The house almost abutted on kept
every breath of
not very agreeable.
wliich of course
one side was a boys'
school, from which arose an incessant jabber,
and on the
ridge above us was a long building of very forbidding ap-
said I to Juan.
replied he, with a
of cases there at present."
the Small-pox Hospital, but there ain't no great
was some alleviation of our misery that we took our
meals in a building
higher up the
quently, cooler than the warehouse in which cuisine
tolerable, the poverty of the native
eked out with European stores. The wine was hot
were good Clicquot and Khenish wines in abundance, and
made us undiscriminating. no Enghshmen at La Guaira,
no out-of-door amusements. or
The Europeans, who
Germans from Hamburg,
smoldng, drinking, playing whist and bilHards. quite easy to have a good place for driving
sea-shore, but everybody
are cliiefly strictly to
and riding by the
the approach to the
sea as inaccessible as possible.
walk I took a look
reason for congratulating quarters. garlic
at the hotel,
and saw ample
had found other
was a very poor posada indeed, and the reek of
Garlic, by-the-by, is as dear
to a Venezvielan as the feels surprised that it is
an Irishman, and one
not adopted as the national emblem.
I was assm^ed by a traveller that he had exhausted his
ventive powers in devising flavoured with this herb, but
to escape eating of dishes
and when half starved, he determined the fatal fragrance pursued
as well as disgust.
egg before attempting to eat
a dernier ressort,
hve on eggs, but
to his astonish-
on carefully examining an
he found that the small end
EMPIRICAL DRUGGISTS. had been perforated, and some of the
favourite herb intro-
duced by the innkeeper, who was resolved that the national
taste should be vindicated,
ab ovo and
the inn I went to
one naturally suggested to
to the posada.
at a botica, or apothecary's shop.
buy some medicine
As my Spanish w^as not very profound, I was glad to find a German m the shop, and to him I explained that I wanted a blue pill. Hereupon he took down a book of prescriptions, and
set to w^ork to find out
search, he began
with pestle and
book, which was in Spanish,
to quote a certain advertisement,
What was my
I discovered that the apothecary
a pill for leprosy
I thuik I won't trouble you
I could read and write
Spanish, though I could not yet speak
I had no great faith in his knowledge, I thought
would take a peep
" I exclaimed, " by-the-by, " to compound that pill for me ;
and, snatching up a box, labelled " Brandreth's Pills," I
German had, no
doubt, failed in some other metier, and had
taken up a trade in drugs without
too glad to escape.
America I saw empmcs more than
enough. After experiencing the disagreeables of the sea-shore pro-
Guaira, I took to climbing the mountain for
So disinclined are the Venezuelans
a constitutional. exercise, that I
the greatest difiiculty in
well-made fellow, and having been born
was a very handsome,
in the countr}^
had much of the Creole
cession of forts
They had came
buried in one
The man who
whole force engaged, was a gigantic negro
did a good deal of execution with hjs gun,
which, even after he was wounded in
places, he con-
he was struck on the back by a large
from a swivel-gun, while he was in the act of re-loading
they came to collect the corpses for
interment he was found doctor, from
on the side of the
from the heights to the attack.
was a suc-
taken by the revolutionary forces in 1859.
three columns of one thousand
for that distance there
one of these, the Cerro Colorado, com-
breathing, and was taken to a
I heard the whole story,
and who assured
though tetanus supervened, the negro recovered
from his wounds.
" This," said the medico,
case of recovery from lock-jaw that I have ever witnessed."
After toihng up the mountain by a steep zig-zag path,
used to descend a ravine, in which flows a rivulet dignified
by the name of the Rio de
usually about ten inches deep, but sometimes
the rains into
Thus, in 1810,
swelled suddenly, after a heavy rain in the mountains, to a
stream ten feet deep, and swept away property to the value of half a million of dollars, as well as
forty were drowned. in this ravine
a sickly yellow-feverish
of people bathe
THE CONSUL'S BATH. in the pools
of these pools
forms at every broad ledge of rock. called the Consul's Bath,
of scandal in which an
the three routes to Caracas from
owing to a piece
Guaii-a, the shortest,
and dangerous, passes
It is called the Indian's Path,
some distance and
that which was used by the Indians before the Spanish conquest.
and the present coach-road
which was in use when Humboldt visited the country.
of all three, but being invited to
breakfast at the Eincon, or Corner, a pretty country-seat
beyond Maquetia, I determined to go by that road It
Guau-a, accompanied by terrifically hot,
on the 10th of July, when I
The smi was
but the j)rospect of being jolted over the
chaotic road to Maquetia being
solved to walk to the Rincon, and let the coach, which
had engaged said
for our exclusive use, pick us
coach apj)eared to be considerably smaller than the
smallest four-wheeled cab in London, and was so up,
and moved so heavily, and with such a flapping of
doors, that I quite agreed with Juan,
of a pun, called out to the di-iver to get on with his vampiro.
walked, as I have said, to Maquetia, and tiu'ned
gladly out of its
up a lane bursting with
flowering shrubs, which led to the Bincon.
were aware of two female evidently
ahead of us, the figures
young and well-shaped Creole
Before long, one of them dropped a kerchief and a prayerbook, which I picked up, and fomid they belonged to la Senorita Trinidad
Not being used
favomite baptismal appellation
and even Dolores
should meet with.
These strange Christian
appellations sometunes yield a curious sense
C. gave me, as an instance, the case
certain proper names.
of a lady christened Dolores Fuertes,
tleman named Battiga
name stood Strong
thus the whole
Pangs of the Stomach.
a pretty little country-house, very like an
Indian bangla, at the foot of a deep
ra\Tine in the
All around were trees and shrubs in profusion, so that
really " life in the bush."
the garden, the
a walk in
naively, that there were a great
often described, and
ought to be
passion-flower creej^er, less insipid.
be called the sea-perch for its colour*, shape,
but never of such a
the things at table with
pumpkin, and not
as big as a
and gentlemen, two French
pounds, the aUigator,
snakes there, parti-
an observation which rather damped
which I was not famihar, were a parga
proposing to take
the house said, very
ourselves, several Creole ladies officers,
enough, and I had seen
aUigator pear has been
said that a good deal of j)ractice
needed before a relish for
to be a
of pumpkin, melon, and very
can be acquired.
of the tastes
ACROSS THE MOUNTAIN TO CARACAS. At 2
our shambling equipage, the vampii'o, came
door, drawn by tlu'ee rat-hke ponies,
who, however, soon proved that they had some mettle in
road, which is about twenty-five feet broad,
and not an intolerably bad one
after fairly quitting
skirts, in a perpetual zigzag, the eastern side of the great
ravine called Quebrada de Tipe. ravine,
side of this
a mile or two broad, leads du-ectly from
Caracas to the Bay of Catia, ah-eady mentioned as a desi-
this side of the ravine, surveys for
made by Stephenson, which have been regentleman who arrived at Caracas at the same
a raih'oad were
peated by a
time as mj'self. tives are,
of this route for locomo-
perhaps, not insiu"mountable, but they seem at
than any that have yet been overcome
least to be greater
For the slow,
our progress was
feet of elevation
as the clouds of red dust were literally sufibcatmg,
and the heat so great that even the case-hardened driver was
fain to take
requii'ed in order to pass
and pedestrians, and the numerous carts we
of a thousand feet,
once we liad reached the elevation
temperatm'e, and began to be repaid for our previous sufferings
view over the Quebrada, the narrow Ime
and the ocean.
Maquetia and Caracas by while, as the crow
more than nme
this road, is
about twenty miles,
Here and there
to Caracas is not
or poor inn, where the carters, carriers, and
to a venta,
coachmen get D
a drink of aguardiente, or fire-water, as while their wretched animals take rest that can be called
swarms of (it
At one place our coachman, an
by the Italian
curious that the pmicipal Jehus on this road are
Italians), requested us to
noses, at the
applying the lash vigorously to his ponies.
or small vultures, rose from the
by, a flock of zamuros,
body of a horse, wliich might very
over the precipice by
but no South American
would ever think of giving himself a
and dogs, were smoking there. out
killed four quail,
had now ascended about
was comparatively quite
trouble to oblige
stoj^ped at a venta half way,
Three or four rough-looking
have been pitched
and seen a few parfive
and we started with our fresh horses
This rate of travelUng
a road to those
were so abrupt as to
not so pleasant on such
for the first time.
road, too, was
approaching the precipice, from which they diverged almost at right angles.
seemed to be
and we did reach
galloj)ing straight into
very brink, and then swept
round by a turn in the road, which only
feel a little
Until habit deadens sensation, one cannot
nervous at such charioteering, and the more
so as dreadful accidents have actually occm'red.
similar roads over the mountains in Peru, and
that a late President of that comitry got so alarmed on one occasion, that he shouted out to the youth
AEEIVAL AT CARACAS. to
The mozo, however,
drove on faster than ever, pistol, called to
enjoymg the joke,
the President, drawing out a
that he would shoot
him dead unless
This was a hint not to be
he pulled up instantly.
regarded, so the youth obeyed, but turned round and said,
" Truh^ you're a
freedom or impudence fine" fellow
are afraid at such a
to be President of Peru,
miles from the place of changing horses, the road
beguis to descend, and we went on with increasmg speed.
The road now grew naiTOwer and narrower at every tm-n, At length, about half-past and the view more confined. 5 P.M.,
we came suddenly
not seen from any distance by this route. students, wandering in cap and
along the road, were
our approacliing the capital.
plunged into some dirty lanes, and then suddenly emerged into the paved streets of the city.
di'iver, ui'ged his
the speed they could
muster, at the same time cracking his whip with reports like those of a pistol, to
of all this energy was, that
we were pitched
another, and up to the roof of the coach, in a
nearly dislocated our necks, and utterly destroyed any dignity that
we might otherwise have assumed.
over wliich we bounded in the most
were full of holes,
we pulled up dead, with
nearly sent us out of the
a jerk that
windows, at the door of
Amande's Hotel, where the Brazilian minister's rooms had been engaged for me.
At Caracas Hotel St. Amaiide Caraqu^niau and her Suitors Drake, the Corsair Site
— The Virgin
—Creole Steeds and
— Bolivar's Cenotaph — Environs of Caracas— The great — Catholic Cemetery — Ker Porter's Chapel — The Toma
hotel was a square house of two stories, close to the
market-place, and not far from the centre of the cit3\
the rooms on the ground-floor were bedrooms.
apartment, a very large
three by partitions, and overlooking the street.
was another very large one, where the
the left were
pied by the landlord and his family, and on the right were
some more bedrooms
concierge was a
huge negro, who, having been a custom-house himself
the airs of a government
so fat that he quite blocked
up the doorway.
and had grown
to the country as a savant, to collect articles for
but, having married an English lady's-maid,
condescended to allow her to make this hotel.
was the most
the time I was there I never heard
him say but two words,
unmarried daughter lived in the house,
and played the piano
at a great rate.
consisted of two Indian waitresses, and a mulatto stable-boy.
CARAQUfiNIAN BELLS. There was also a cook, so enormously
fat that I
should never have been able to relish
I was glad that I
as the wife of the fat concierge.
at my departure, as I my dinner after seeing
furnished, and beautifully clean, and congratulated myself
on having so comfortable a lodging. C.'s,
and was agreeably surprised
I dined at
elegance of his
His house was but one story high, but there were
about sixty feet long and twenty-five broad, and furnished
In the centre of the court,
like a first-class saloon in Paris.
round which the rooms were
was a garden
and a fountain of clear water.
I have said I was well pleased with
ensconced myself in
mosquito curtains about midnight,
anticipating a long and j)leasant slumber. half-past three, I
apartment, and I
in the midst of a dream, in
fancied myself in a belfry, with the bells playing triple bob-
awaking, sure enough bells were ringing
The sound seemed could
come from every
" Perhaps," thought
the Caraquenians announce a
a popular emeute ?
Oh, bother them
wish they would have their revolutions in the daj-time, like reasonable people."
the bells rang on, and presently
there was a great noise of people passing in the street, and
then a sound of
and of rockets being
have gone to the window to reconnoitre, but a salutary awe of the mosquitos and the penetrating * fleas kept *
The 'pulcx penetrans is a
that burrows in the flesh where
lays its eggs.
until the clay dawned,
of the hubbub.
to discover the reason
on the other side of
I then perceived that
the street there was a large convent, in which, although
not a soul was to be seen, the bells were ringing in a way. that reminded
of the Devil and the Old
Further down the street
small square, and on one side of
than the convent was a
a church, where again
the bells were rmging at least as obstreperousl3\
direction of this church, which was brilliantly lighted up,
there was quite a crowd of people coming and going, and
from among them rockets shot up from time inquiry, I found
from the Canary Islands, of
quite a colony at
have theirs, and in honour of their saint
was made to
In South America every one has his patron saint,
fiesta of the Isleiios, or
ej-elids of all
where I was, while our nerves were harassed
throughout the day by a continued hubbub of
an end, and I found solace in the hope that quiet would
the Catholic year at Caracas
processions, and bull-fights.
length be restored.
of feasts and fasts, and, fastmg or feasting, the
inhabitants are for
ever ringing bells,
squibs and rockets, and walking in tumultuous processions. I lived weeks to
and never could get accustomed
nor enjoy that hearty sound slumber Avhich Sanclio
apostrophises as the best of wrappers.
But, in fairness,
strangers as well as their disagreeables. especially
on notable holidays, such as that of Nuestra
Seiiora de la Merced, the fair sex
forth in their gayest
THE VIEGIN AND HER SUITORS. attire,
beA^ies to the
you are an impartial Paris, that 3'ovu'
It is then, if
3'ou will resolve to
golden apple on the Creole Venus in preference to
other beauties, so lovely are the faces that shine upon
you from under the coquettish mantilla, and so graceful the There may, indeed,
figures that undulate along the streets.
be rosier cheeks and
skms elsewhere, but not such
large black eyes, teeth of such
taper waists, and faultless feet and ankles, as belong to the
course, is entii'ely out of the question. to be looked at,
and the men stand
steps, or cluster inside, to look at
The women come
on the church
All round the
churches are pictures, usually sad daubs, and a profusion of
dolls, representing the
Vii'gm at various periods of her
Anything more contrary to common sense, to say
nothing of good taste and devotional feeling, than these images,
impossible to conceive.
groups of dolls I was particularly struck with one at the
which the Vii'gm, dressed in
pery imaginable, was kneeling beside a gigantic crucifix, while a six-j-ear-old angel fluttered above the cross, dressed in silver-embroidered trunk-hose
About the middle
royal Stuart pattern.
and tartan leggings of the
the image or pictm'e of the saint train of ecclesiastics,
of the da}',
Every now and then the host
down go the people on is sanctified
and with a body of soldiers as a guard
on such occasions.
and anon guns and
rockets are discharged, and the use even
generally a procession, and
of squibs and
went back to India,
and the processions of Durga and Krishnah.
yatrotsavahs of Hindustan, and the fiestas of South America,
are the resource of an idle
people, and an excuse for putting on best clothes, loitering,
gaming, and love-making.
was assured that
fiesta at Santiago, the Vii'gin receives
girls of the city
ask for husbands and lovers, others for ball-di*esses and
pianos, and, incredible as
answered, and, where
appear, the petitions are
as husbands and lovers, one
knows from Hero-
dotus that such matters are easily arranged, but even a
At Caracas, absurdity
carried so far, but even there fiestas are no doubt the busiest
days at Cupid's post-office.
It is at about the
one to please an Oriental sovereign.
same elevation above the sea
a few batteries judiciously placed, the approach to
Caracas from the coast might be completely closed against
an enemy, exceptmg, of course, English tilings are practicable that
imply prize-money and a
In the beginning of June,
Dracke, as the Spanish historians
him, or Francis
Drake, stood in with his squadron towards the coast of
he arrived within about half a league from
when he embarked
and landed. resistance,
and carried to Caracas the news of the
Englishman's descent on the coast.
did the valiant
DRAKE, THE COESAIE. alcaldes, Garci-Gonzalez
and Francisco Rebolledo, assem-
men who would and
could bear arms, march out
They marched with
and chastise the mvader.
banners displayed along the royal road leading from Caracas to
Guau-a, lea\'ing ambuscades in the less frequented
passes of the mountains, where the thick trees and rough
But Drake had found
ground favoured such strategy.
willing to sell his comitry,
and who led the corsau- by an
imfrequented route, perhaps that which
Indian's Path, to Caracas.
So, while the valiant alcaldes
were marching down to the
ambush were l^ing ensconced in the dank
man was hanging use,
he had no further
and packing up, with great care and very
at his ease, all the valuables
Now, who can adequately when they heard door, the stped
he could find in Caracas.
describe the fury of the alcaldes
that, while they
were guardmg the stable
had been abeady stolen
back again to the
capital, resolved to
So they marched
a pastel of
and his merry men, and hoping to catch them with their pikes and their
hangers and their arquebuses laid aside, and
But Drake was cautious
well as bold,
and had turned the municipal
and the Spaniards
had a presentiment that there was no taking these strong places without bloodshed, so they surrounded the city at a safe distance,
and prepared to put every Englishman to
death, who, not content with the booty he had alread}' got,
should go out to the villages round about to look for more.
Anch-ea de Ledesma,
was, perhaps, a native of
and put his hxnce in
and rode forth alone
at full speed,
tried to do mischief with his spear.
as gently as they could,
eight days were passed,
hundred moved out of Caracas with their booty;
and, after burning
nor would they, had he not charged
body to a grave in the
carried his all
to drive out the English.
not to harm him
La Mancha, mounted
and an old target on his arm,
moved Drake's compassion, and he bade
of the old don
the houses that the}" had not knocked
marched merrily away
to their ships,
barked without the loss of a single man. Caracas
said, very inaccessible
from the side towards La Guaira and the
in the opposite direction, the slopes are easier.
In order to form a correct notion of the city is built,
on which the
one must keep in mind the direction of the
moimtain ranges of the country.
north and south, dividing South America like a backbone, but into two very unequal parts Pacific
portion that extends to the Atlantic. dilleras east,
part parallel to the
being infinitely narrow compared with the eastern
descend from the Andes, and run from west to
forms quite an angle at La Guaira and Macuto, approaching there ahnost to the sea, and ending in a huge clumj), the
highest part of which
a great double-peaked
mountain, that towers up two miles to the east of Caracas.
Silla is, consequently, nearly opposite to
the ridge which separates Caracas from
SITE OF CAEACAS. CeiTo
This ridge appears to swell on without a
by the deep ravine of Tocume.
south side, then, of Avila and
Silla is a plain, called the
plain of Cliacao, with a steep slope from N.N.AV. to S.S.E.
from the mountains just mentioned to La Guaira,
a stream which flows with a south-easterly com^se into the
latter river falls into the
miles to the east of the town of
Chacao, which the Tuy,
branch of the
Caribbean Sea, sixty plain of
far larger valley of
about ten miles long from west to east, and
north to south,
narrowest, stands Caracas.
Some authors have pronounced
to be matter of regret
that Caracas was not built further to the east, near the Adllage of
Chacao, where the plain
doubt that Francisco Fajardo, who, in 1560, the
led to choose the spot as also to the
Venezuela now occupies, was
nearest to the coast, and
mines of Los Teques, which were the attractions
that brought Indians.
into a locality then
Losada, who wished to make
a pennanent conquest where Fajardo
than an explorer, founded a latter,
Leon de Caracas
Santiago, or Diego, the
the Governor de Leon, and that of the Indians of the district,
imagined that his new
would ever become
the capital of a great country, and in selectmg the site he
was probably guided by the accident that Fajardo had
the position of the capital,
the government of
Venezuela would be transferred from Caracas to Valencia, a city which has the richest soil and the best seaport in
very proud of their native town, and boast climate
but the question of
In the meantime, the Caraquenians are
its title to
decided in the negative by Humboldt, the position of the provinces Caracas
can never exert any powerful political influence over the countries of which
know Caracas and
fresh horses were lent
every day, and I rode somewhere
or other every morning and evening. zuela, be
said, en imssaiit,
are so small that one
horses of Vene-
though spirited and well shaped,
would certainly snub them as
but for their self-assertion and haughty
must be owned,
envii'ons well, for
are at times supported
by worthy deeds in
carrying then- riders bravely into battle, and in aiding in
the slaughter of furious bulls twice as big as themselves.
They do not understand high jumping, but they go very well at ditches, however broad and deep.
very well that they are to go that way rather high, and the
the pase-trote, a sort of quick amble, and they
the reins are held
not fashionable, and, altogether, the English style of
riding does not
a bad rider
to be admired, for
usual to say of
ride Avith excessively long stiiTups, so as just to touch
with the toe, and the ambling pace of their horses suited
BOLIYAE'S CENOTAPH. nor animal
streets of Caracas, for neither rider
to the east of the city to Petare, a large niiles
In a few minutes
Amande's Hotel, I found myself
Plaza, the principal square, where the daily market
of Portman-square, but looks
It is about the size
larger, the buildings
Government House, which
very low, except the
on the western
cathedral, which stands at the south-eastern angle.
these buildings survived the great earthquake of 1812.
found nothing in the cathedral, either externally or ternally,
worth noticing, except the tomb of Bolivar, which
of white mai'ble,
represented standing in his general's unifoi-m, and below
are three female figures, intended, I suppose, for the three
freedom to him.
" Simonis Bolivar cineres
asked for bread, and they gave him a stone."
whose ashes are here so honoured in the cathedral of
his native town, died far away, starving,
way from the
cathedi-al is the theatre.
position seems to be the rule as regards these edifices in
At La Guau-a, the theatre stands next
Things have so
Humboldt, that the theatre to the sky, is
changed for the better since the time of
which was then open
stay there was no
characters Avere killed in
At about half
from the cathedral, I came to a
bridge over a stream which
bounds the town on
the Guaira, and which
are two fine coffee
plantations, and a mile further is another
being the point at
valley being a
The scenery here
very beautiful, the
of cultivation, while from
land does the great mountain look so imposing. that which interested
me most was
or " Eastern Bailwaj^," the
the Ferro-Carril d'Este,
the bridge already mentioned. station,
which Humboldt commenced his
I dismounted to inspect the
was quite deserted, I was obliged to clam-
over a gate fifteen feet
the rails had been laid
high to get into
I found that
for about half a mile, but the
grass and weeds were
and piles of wood for sleepers, sad
of the slumber into which the whole concern has
and from which
seems doubtful whether
I found the posada at Petare full of people
and the whole place had a more
ing, bustling appearance than I expected. five
hundred houses it.
in the village,
There are about
there never could be sufficient traffic to repay
the expense of a railway, unless the line were continued to Valencia.
next expedition was to the north of the tovm, and to
the slope beyond l}ing immediately under the Cerro d'Avila.
be seen from this slope,
figure a great square, with long parallel streets crossing
city of Caracas, as
THE GREAT EAETHQUAEi:. from north
and with the principal square of the
market-place in the centre.
at the north-east angle
there has been a suburb, thi-ough which the old road to
The " Indian Path," akeady mentioned,
La Guaira passes. branches
I was astonished to see the
from that road.
destruction that the great earthquake of 1812 caused in this
a house seems to have escaped, and though
a few have been restored, the marks of the aj)parent ever^-where,
lines of ruins still remain.
the nearer the
to have been the shock.
greater seemed to
was confii'med in
afterwards bv the narrative of an eye-witness, Major M.,
and who was in
Caracas when the earthquake happened.
Major M. was
writing in his office with his clerk at 4 p.m., on the 26th of
March, in that year.
was intensely hot, and no rain had
Being Holy Thursdaj', the
fallen for a considerable time.
churches were crowded with ladies, dressed in their gayest
chapels of the convents were
streets, as is usual
on holiday s, with people who had
from the neighbouring
At the barracks
of San Carlos, a regiment of six hiuidi*ed tering under the walls.
men were mus-
There was not a cloud in the sky,
not a thought of danger in the a sudden the eai-th seemed to bells tolled,
and a tremendous subterranean noise was heard.
The perpendicular motion stantly succeeded
lasted four seconds,
by a violent undulatory movement, which
continued six seconds more. great city, with
In those ten seconds that
thousand inhabitants, had become a
heap of blood-stained ruins.
of Alta Gracia
and Trinidad, with towers one hundred and
were so completely levelled, that in then- place only shape-
mounds remained, spread out
not more than
to a great distance, but
Every convent was destroyed,
and of the inmates scarcely one escaped. of San Carlos was hurled forward from
and of the
soldiers mustering below its walls not a
his seat and rushed towards the door, followed by his clerk.
into the street, but his clerk to death
was crushed seen
The major had
long residence in these
regions of the -"'olcano and the earthquake, and had been
by sea and land, but he declared that
the spectacle which Caracas presented at the
great earthquake, was the most terrible of
cloud of dust rose up to heaven, and with
more than twenty thousand human beings dying
in the ruins.
Great rocks came thundering
down from the mountains, and
at intervals exj)losions,
the discharge of innumerable pieces of artillery, were heard
beneath the earth.
Guaira, and remained there without food
iymg hunger, w^ere so
difficult to prociu-e
to the river till
the next day.
difficult to pass.
days the sad sights were renewed of digging
out the wounded and the dead.
Men's minds were so
affected with terror, that for a long
time they could not retm-n to their ordinary occupations,
but were continually absorbed with prayer and rehgious
Then were many marriages performed between who had for years been living together without that and men who had defi'auded others made restitution,
ceremonies. those .tie,
appalled by the horrors of that tremendous day, and appre-
hensive of their recui-rence.
a few places in the Cerro d'Avila, I observed houses
an elevation of several hundred
among them one belonging it is
a country-house, called the Paraiso, once the property
of an English minister, and wliich passed from liim to a that which interested
was the Cathohc cemetery, said
to be the
famous Creole beauty. in this direction finest in all
South America, and well worth a
stands on very high ground, and the view
singularity of the place
very high walls by which
lined with a
are eight feet deep,
wide and high, and are used as receptacles
Persons who can afibrd to pay a fee of
that the inner side of the
sort of gigantic pigeon-holes.
dollars are allowed the privilege of placing the cofiin
of a deceased relative in one of these receptacles for three years.
of the deceased person
the recess, and the cofiin can be brought out at any time if
thus preserved from destruc-
being quite diy, and sheltered from the weather, and
from the attacks of
midable black ant, which
and devours everjiihing
remains of the deceased person
especially the for-
three-quarters of an inch in at.
taken down, and
are, if the family
Otherwise, they are thi'own into a E
Poor people, and those who
large pit, called a carnero.
do not choose to pay for the three once
in the grounds of the
I observed the words
Calentura Amarilla in
lodgment in the
of the epitaphs, which told plainly of the ravages of
the yellow fever.
been known at
having appeared at Caracas.
I had ridden past the
Guaii^a only two years before his arrival,
and says nothing of Ai'ter
that this disease
cemetery a few hundred
mound about one hmidred and
and was told that
marked the spot where the
persons who died in the great outbreak of cholera a few
years ago, were buried. that
victims were so
was quite impossible to inter
separately, so a
very long deep trench was dug, and the dead were brought
and cast mto
outskii^ts of the city,
compared with the Catholic ceme-
are very poor places as tery.
on the southern
both covered with weeds, but, in the
British burial-ground, the rank gi'ass
so tall that
impossible to see the gTaves, and the whole place ant-hills
several feet high.
inscription to say sole
Cai'acas with water. ravine, it.
a chapel, with an
by Robert Ker Porter
had come from the Caspian Gates
to this distant country of the
I felt interested in seeing the
North of the
I found only one other place worth
or reservon, which supplies situated
in a thickly-wooded
and a very narrow path among the bushes leads to
necessary to tread with caution here,
account of the dense thickets, and the phice being so frequented, snakes abound in incredible numbers.
assured that, on a
rattlesnakes and other
serpents might be seen basking in the sun.
human guard might seem
however, a superintendent, and, on entering his cottage,
Canary Islands, working
wife, a native of the
with her daughter at making sandals.
make two dozen
saw of the enormously
She said they could and a half
about a pound sterling, a dozen.
rocky terrace where the shrubs will
not grow, sometimes forty or
only one mstance
liigh rates at
paid in Venezuela.
of the city I did not ride.
only the road to
come by coach.
In this direction
Guau-a, along which I had
I took, however, a walk to the Calvario,
a hill on which the stations at Calvary ought to be
crosses, but I observed none.
some hundred cit}", is
a good view over the
remarkable for a very severe action fought there on
only fifteen hundred
between Colonel Pereira,
Bermudez, of the
and General Jose Fran-
Bermudez, who had
men, attacked with
Spanish forces, though far outnumbering his column, and
on the high ground, and was so
completely defeated that he had great to
Rodea with two hundi'ed men.
the south there
engineer, which leads to five
a fine road,
Los Teques, a
made by village
miles from Caracas, where there were gold mines once
worked by the Spaniards, and which, in
tering bait that lured station
this road, at
into the province.
pleasant village of Antemano, where Caraquenian beauties
bathe and ruraHse during the heats is also
the river the Tuy.
La Guau-a There
into the hills,
which leads across
and so to the valley of
a beautiful estate- in this dii'ection,
belonging to Senor Espino, whose income from land
be about twenty thousand dollars a his property I closed
survey of the envii'ons of Caracas,
and came to the conclusion
not for earth-
quakes, ej)idemics, insect plagues, triennial revolutions, and bell-ringmg, there would be few for a residence.
CHAPTER IV. make the Traits of Republican Life — Dishonesty the best policy — How to the top — Why Republics are always borrowing — The Bullscum Caracas— Cave Canem— Godoy, the Negro Fight — Public Buildings Wit — The Venezuelan Cabinet — Maniac Visitors — The Ministerial to
said I, as I sat examining
accounts at Caracas, " things are exorbitantly dear in this
There's that dinner I gave the day before
land of libert3% yesterday.
was a very plain diimer
have charged twenty-three pounds for
to thirteen, it
one might expect in London with real fish,
and as many courses
but here we have had nothing "
was a turkey, and su',
weren't so in a general
That's a charge
the usual table d'hote fare, except, indeed,
" Things are dear,
interrupted Juan, " and
way they would be
not a man, woman, or child in the whole city that
know we brought two boxes
of gold to
and that you are a comisionado." "
And what difference
the government, as everybody knows. to be careful of
gold was for
money, and to examine well mto accounts,
should be a financial commissioner."
Juan, "that's one view, and I'm not
a going to say that view.
Sir, it's of
no one gets the
Gobierno mal administrado
really like to
the general opmion
a kind of proverb,
not a Creole
no manner of use being too honest out
business, there's, perhaps thing, for
in that than in any-
La mejor hacienda es el The best estate is the
So, no offence,
cuartillo for yourself out of every real
when you have such
and of course they
money you ought
a lot of
marketmg here is,
make him who has most, pay So sajing, Juan walked
behind for the good of the country.
the rules for
that being a very sensible man, 3'ou
won't part with those boxes of gold without
you can, and
with the intention of passing the
at various friends' houses.
In the evening, at
dinner-hour, he would show himself again for a short time,
which I should see nothing of him
style of service is regarded as quite the correct
thing in Venezuela
a country which might, indeed, be
called the paradise of servants, were the
applicable at all to the vagrant gentlemen and ladies
pay you short
replenish their purses and ward-
and severely repress any
commmiicate with them as to your domestic
them on general
such as the weather or the theatre, and on politics
you may be as expansive as you
where any one
a general or a president in a few days that sub-
ject is universally interesting.
MAKE THE SCUM
in one of the
so well carried out, that,
houses where I was a guest, the gentleman who cleaned the boots alwaj's came into in his
with his hat on and a cigar
and another gentleman
to assist Juan, left
refused the custody of
the day after his arrival, on being
and purse, which he candidly
stated was the only duty he felt equal to.
as the music strikes up in the di'awmg-room, the servants
begin to waltz in the passages and ante-rooms, and as entertainments are almost always on the ground
generally in rooms looking into the streets, the great " un-
" thrust theii-
naked arms and greasy faces between
the bars of the windows and criticise the dancing with spirit.
I have seen a gentleman in rags leaning into
window from the
streets with his bare
arms almost touching
those of a beautifully dressed lady, while his most sweet
breath fanned her tresses.
another occasion I was talk-
ing to some ladies at an evening party, culotte jerked in his
versation, that I stopped,
a worthy sans-
listen to our con-
on which he called out, " Oh, these
are the aristocrats
head so suddenly to
talk to any one
to play chess with
the wife of the president of one of the states, half a dozen
female servants, of every shade, from tawny twilight to black night, surroimded the table
and began to watch the game.
time I went to a
I was accompanied by a
show me the best
had to wait some time before the gentleman of the shop appeared.
cigar in his
he did, he came in with the inevitable
his hat politely to
walkecF straight up to me, shook hands, and asked
I did. tions
He then sat down on the counter, put various questo me regarding my coming to Venezuela, talked on
general subjects, and at the end of about a quarter of an
hour intimated that he was ready to oblige a coat.
rank in the army, and
he was wearing his uniform and spurs when he came in to
measure a friend of mine.
Juan was an excellent
had he been too he walked
but he would have lost caste
attentive to his duties in Venezuela.
as I have said, to
to think over the difficulties of the business entrusted to
had no experience in South American measm-e had
thoroughly aufait in them.
the son of an Englishman,
born in Venezuela, knew
chanced to come in just as Juan
room, and seeing that he had " Now, tell me, for a chat, I said
taken a cigar
the integrity characteristic of his race, and being a
Creole by birth, that
been to secure a coadjutor,
and settled himself
so wretchedly poor, and so eternally borrowing
part, I can't
a particle of show.
Your Government House looks
East Indian godown,
men make no
as for your soldiers, one would think that the last successful
campaign had been against the were carrying
and that the
plunder on their backs.
that you Venezuelans are not extravagant, and
that you have great resources
It is evident it
you knew how to use them.
the richest in the world, and has never been
trodden by an invader since the Spaniard was driven out.
the reason that you are always
REPUBLICS ARE ALWAYS BORROWING.
from other countries
is it, too,
States of North America have
lation in rivers
that while the United
progress, the popu-
but stationar}-, the seas and
without steamers, the
country without roads, and
commerce end of
languishing ? "
C. knocked the ashes from the
conveniently on the follows:
of a chau-, and finally rephed as
see, in the
in the breed.
thought by perching his
place, there's a diflference
are a go-a-head lot, there's
mistake about that.
There's plenty of quicksilver in English
blood, but fog and
New York it South.
rises to fever heat,
Besides, long before Lexington and Bunker-hill,
the North Americans were ripe for self-government.
South America things were very kept their American fiftiis
The Spaniards Four-
subjects in profound ignorance.
at Caracas, the
when one was
up by the French-
iUiberality of the Spaniards
that, after Isabella's death, nothing was done to intro-
duce the cultivation of any plant, or improve farming. culture of the vine and olive was prohibited,
tobacco was made a crown monopoly.
of the population could not even read, for there were
boihng point down
and that of
Emigration, too, was
prevented, and, in the total absence of
that Venezuela should
ever have become free, than that
should have made so
vivj'fjang power, the
" Then as to the poverty of the government
constant borrowing, there are several reasons for that. the
place, the Creoles of
South America, though they
They won't go
qualities, are very averse to physical labour.
country, like Englishmen
away timber, stub up, and
Their wits are
sharp, and they do well for superintendents that tries the sinews,
but as to work
belief that all the haciendas in
the country would go to ruin,
and the mixed breeds.
were not for the Indians
Again, the taxes levied by the
coast taxes, the medias anatas, or deductions from
alcabala, or excise, the
the monopolies of
numerous other imposts, were
and tobacco, and
so odious to the Columbians,
that as soon as they declared themselves independent, they
a clean sweep of them, leaving only the customs to
supply a revenue to the government.
customs that state.
and defraud the
a coast line of two thousand miles,
possible to keep
you an idea*of
the extent of the contraband trade, I
finance mmister of Venezuela has proved that of the two
country during the
worth of goods imported into the sixteen years of independence, one millions' worth were
hundred and twenty-nine and a half smuggled
But, besides that, the venahty and corruption
of the custom-house
officers is such, that, as Seiiors
and Iribarren have shown, the defalcations of revenue from the Aduanas up to 1852, amounted to no less than one
hundred and one and a half millions of
the annual loss to government by contrabands and frauds of various kinds,
furnished by the accounts kept here.
If other countries
EEPUBLICS AEE ALWAYS BOEEOWING.
France and the United States,
â€” did not publish
the amoimt of their exports to Venezuela, no one would
really brought into this country.
by comparing foreign
It is only
which the government
the frauds of the
Indeed, one would not be wrong in sa^^ing that
of small means.
sown broadcast, and discontent leads
Yet, great as the evil
customs are raised until the neces-
saries of life are too dear for
at the custom-houses.
one cannot help laugh-
ing at the impudence of some of the frauds.
the published returns, the people here must be the dirtiest in the world with any pretensions to civilisation, since
aU that each person
that a quarter of an ounce of soap in uses.
provmce of Caracas alone consumes a hundred barrels of flour a da}', whereas, according to the
the daily consumption of
no remittances Puerto Cabello.
mortgaged, and that there are
from La Guaira and
Of course the only resom'ce
and hence," said C, throwing away the
cigar, " I have the pleasure of
empty, that the revenues of the
to the capital except
in foreign markets, liis
Venezuela does not reach sixty-
Under such circumstances,
that the pubHc treasmy
wliich, as there is a bull-fight to-day,
have never seen one,
to the Corrida."
Before we could reach the eastern outskirt of the town,
where the building stands in which the a
mass of clouds came
rain began, in earnest of a
bull-fights are held,
from the Avila, and a
more pelting shower.
about for shelter, and seeing at a window some ladies
of them, a slim
long eyelashes, " senorita ever go ?
I said to one
with immense dark eyes, and singularly
are going to the Corrida
" No, senor, I never go.
how any one can
ladies of Venezuela think
bull-fights very barbarous.
talk to them.
me, I cannot under-
pleasure in such
said I, rather astonished.
Spain ladies think fashion for
we do not
follow the fashions of Spain.
Perhaps we are more tender-hearted here." After this dialogue, I was not surprised, on entering the
Cirque in which the bull-fight was to be held, to find that the spectators were nearly
men, and that the few women
present were of the lower orders.
was of wood, open to the sky in the centre, and anything but substantial.
Several tiers of seats, each a foot or so
higher than the other,
had been erected round a circular
area about a hundred and twenty feet in diameter. seats
there seemed but
lowest seat, which was not
hundred people, and
In front of the
raised from the ground,
were strong palisades, between which a ease,
could shp with
and thus they afforded the toreros a secure retreat
from the fury of the
Close to where I took
THE BULL FIGHT.
there was a large gate, which was thrown open to admit
the bulls one
band struck up, and eight
however, a squeaking or pedestrian
and saluted some person of note who
Just at that moment, the thunder-
opposite the large gate.
shower which had been gathering descended in torrents, and the people shouted to the toreros, " No moja se " " Don't get wet palisades,
on which they slipped in between the
and so put themselves under cover.
active fellows, with
extremely good legs,
which were seen to advantage, as they wore white
stockings and knee-breeches embroidered with gold.
as the rain stopped there
was a loud shout, and
presently the large gate opened and in rushed a bull.
was a dark animal, almost black, and had evidently been goaded to madness, for he came charging head, and with his
the sharp points of his horns had been sawn the toreros
now ran nimbly up
I could see, however, that
to the bull
cloak on the ground before him, on wliich the animal a fmious charge, attempting to gore
and adroitly whisking
fatigued the bull
from side to
by causing him to make
â€”not the man, of whom
took no notice, but the cloak.
this along rapidly,
thi*ew his red
repeated again and again, until the animal seemed quite tu'ed.
active of the toreros then
a banderilla, or javelin entwined with fireworks in one hand,
and his cloak in the other. that the animal charged torero glided to one side,
so close to the
In a moment the
and drove the dart into the
pinning the wretched animal's ear to his neck. diately the fii'eworks
around the dart began to explode, and
the terrified bull tm-ned and rushed madly across the arena.
In half a minute or so the began
bellowing piteously, while
had reached the
bull then reared straight up,
poor flanks heaved with the
head against the ground,
driving the dart further into its flesh, and so continued to gallop
romid the ring
succession of rearings and
This seemed to be a moment of exquisite
dehght to the spectators, who yelled out applause, and some in tlieu' excitement stood uj) clapping heartily disgusted,
and would have gone out
been possible, but I was too tightly wedged
the large gate opened again, and the poor bull fled through it,
to be slaughtered
and sold with
minutes' pause another bull was admitted, and was tortured.
fared with four
sixth bull was a very tall gaunt animal,
were quite different from those of the others.
without a rush, looked warily about, and could hardly be
induced to follow the torero. that the people,
In short, he was so sluggish,
enraged at his showing so
shouted for a matador to
in the arena.
one of the toreros darted up to stick a banderilla into the sluggard. tliis
Bu^t the bull, being quite fresh, not only defeated
attempt by a tremendous sweep of his horns, but almost
who was taken by
surprise at this
unlooked-for vigour on the part of an animal which seemed spiritless.
escaped for a moment,
but the bull followed him like
PUBLIC BUILDINGS AT CAEaCAS. and, as
luck would have
could reach the shelter of the palisades his foot sHpped in a
puddle and he
would end as
Expecting that the charge
ones had ended, I had got up
with the intention of leaving, and I was thus able to see
him on the lower
force that the
unfortunate torero was
part of the spine with such
The and came down
over the building.
into the air,
with his head against the palisades, and there lay, apx^areutly dead, in a j)ool of blood.
horror crept over fellow again,
sickening feeling of
the bull was rushing upon the jDoor
and would no doubt have crushed him as he
lay motionless, but, just in the nick of time, one of the
toreros thi'ew his cloak so cleverly that
the bull's head and blinded him.
trampling and tossing to free himself, the matador came up
and drove a short sword into the vertebrae of his neck, and
down he went headlong.
At one moment
the next he was a quivering mass of lifeless flesh.
minutes more, and the dead
man, were removed from the arena, and another bull was called for.
made my It
however, had witnessed enough, and gladly
several da^'s to
meeting the ministers, and I determined to spend them in visiting the
few buildings of interest in the
expedition was to the Municipal Hall, and indeed I had
but a Httle way to go, as
one of the oldest buildings in Caracas, and
externally is not only plain, but almost shabb}'.
a very respectable council chamber, with
members, who impose the town dues, and discharge the ordinary functions of civic authorities. are
hung some very
that of the ecclesiastic
the archiepiscopal chair
of Caracas in 181S, and those of President his brother.
also portraits of Bolivar, of
and Generals Miranda and Urdaneta,
remarkable picture of the reading of the Act of Independence, with likenesses
are represented compelling the
to take off his hat
a pendant to this picture
hangs a framed copy of the Act of Independence.
great curiosity of all is the flag of Pizarro, sent from in 1837,
and enshrined in a
All the silk and velvet
but the gold wire remains, with the device of
a lion, and the
long and three broad, and being folded double in the frame, only half out.
will not allow it to be taken
flags of Carlos the
from the Spaniards, and the original MSS. of the Act of Independence, and other important documents, bound up together.
day or two
went to see the university of
of Assembl}^, the National
Library, and a church, forms one ^reat block of buildings.
The National Library does not
contain more than ten thou-
sand volumes, and in that of the university there are about three thousand five hundred.
seemed best represented
but there was no great evidence
PUBLIC BUILDINGS AT CAEACAS. The
of the books being cared for. sity
professors of the imiver-
were most obliging, and showed
seen in the college, wliich its
present pui'pose, though originally
seemed the best organised.
there was to be
massive and not
was a convent of
the dissecting-room, and that for anatomical
Among other things I was shown man whose bones had turned to chalk. The
from an inch to an inch and a half thick, and
had been broken
to be, or to have ever been,
of the professors then went with
to the Hall of Congress,
and of the meeting
a piece of
and shown separately, no unscientific
person would have guessed a
where also are pictures of Bolivar,
which the Act of Independence was
sat there reading,
and who never
raised his head, were his sole audience, he dehvered ^^ith
the gi'eatest animation an eloquent harangue on the subject of Uberty.
be true that
waters are the deepest,
I should fear that the republicanism of South America
does so babble as
I was glad to hear the orator express himself with great
as regards England, saying that she
power that had assisted them
was the only
in theii' great struggle with
the Spaniards, and that without her they would hardly have
secured their independence.
The time had now come ministers on the business I at
interview with the
C. came for
11 A.M. on the appointed day, and we walked together to
busy conversing, I p 2
did not notice the sentry, and indeed he was such a mite of
a man, that I might have been pardoned for overlooking
seems that in Venezuela
such divinity doth hedge " a sentmel that no passer-by must come within a It
yard of him.
Having approached within the
small warrior soon convinced
be so offended with impunity.
that his dignity was not to
In the twinkling of an eye
he brought down his musket with a terrible charge, and very nearly at the is
same time snarling out some
above the knee,
a cmious fact that the Venezuelans are, generally speak-
ver}^ civil race,
mitil they put
uniform, by-the-by, like the English),
was a caution I often received, and I once heard gested that a mat with Cave
demeanour of the
" Don't go near that sentry,"
nature seems to be som-ed.
should be laid down
in front of every soldier
different is the
day, for instance, I
walking with a friend on the northern outskirts of the
when we met is
a gardener with a store of fresh fruit.
your time," said
how you can manage
friend, " to try
a bargain with the gardener."
we detained the poor man
the mere sake of talldng,
time, and looked at his fruit, and tumbled
So, for a long
about, until I
was ashamed, and would have bought a quantity of
Then he asked where it
was a very long way
send so far.
I was living, and off,
" Well, then," I
to be done, for I should not to
told him, as
would not pay liim to " I fear there
" That's true," said he, " but I should
taste this fruit,
GODOY, THE NEGEO WIT. With
must accept a few specimens." sisted
these words he in-
taking some of the best mangoes and other
he had, and
Escaping from the
refused to be paid for sentry,
we entered the
Government House, and were received by the duty
to usher in those
to the ministers.
bon-mots are cmTent
that you have not been turned out
"I," said Godoy, with an
humility, but casting a significant glance at
" never ascend,
Godoy, " You
just got into power, said to
with the rest?"
when government had suddenly changed hands, official,
pay their respects
of the negi'oes, and is a genius in his way.
and consequently never descend."
questioner was soon enabled to appreciate the philosophy of
the remark, for he descended fr'om
suddenly as he ascended, being turned out by another
Another time, dm'ing the
in a thi'eatening
late troubles, a
manner near Government House, and began Godoy, and one of the
shouting out various seditious cries.
generals on the side of the party in power,
balcony to see what was the matter
came out on the
on wliich stones were Godoy, and the mob shouted: " Do^m with the
with the brigands
they say ? " asked the general, sneeringiy, of
excellency," he replied,
with the negroes
Do^Mi with the brigands
meaning, of course,
refer, I su^jpose, to
which, as no one else
were ushered by Godoy into the council-room, a
handsome apartment, looking on the Gran Plaza. There
tains the inevitable picture of Bolivar. sash, but I do not
seen his sword any-
entered and found a suffocating atmosphere, at
are open only during
the day, and the doors and windows are kept closed from
when business commences, which
verandahs, so that the public rooms at Caracas are hotter
However, as the ministers, with the
than those at Madras.
acting president at their head, were already assembled, there
but to go forward and take our seats.
The meeting was one
of vital importance to every one pre-
Not only were the exigencies
of the government
urgent, but each individual supporter of satisfactory termination of that
of indemnity for losses,
that on the
meeting depended his hopes
and the settlement of his claims,
whatever they might be.
public tranquillity, too, was
at stake, because the greater part of the army, after
had no other reimbursement
years' incessant fighting,
look to for allotted to
at the very
and dangers, but what might be
conference passed off well.
we were seated
extensive conspiracy was on foot, in which a minister and several other persons of rank were said to be engaged,
some of the conspirators had not turned informers,
might have been successful. of countenance possessed
Yet so great was the command
by the ministers there assembled,
and so complete the absence of
appearance of excitement,
that no one would have supposed the business under discus-
more than an every-day matter.
sion to have been
a sharp teacher, and in troublous times political students
The men who before,
takes j^ears to acquii'e in peace.
sat there as ministers
had been, not very long
one a clerk, another a cattle-farmer, and so on.
they were governing a country twice as
and had learned so much from the experience
of the late struggle, that they were by no for the task of
After a long discussion, our business, for the time at least,
C. and I then took leave,
having received several in^dtations to breakfast from the ministers
for at Caracas it does not
to give dinners.
to be the fashion
These invitations we accepted, and walked
back to the hotel.
way we heard
a good deal of
shouting, mingled with laughter, and presently
big wild-looking man,
to be in a j^erfect frenzy,
stopping from time to time and imprecating the most dreadful curses on
retm-ned with interest, picking up fist,
followed by a
throwing stones, which he flints
as large as one's
and throwing them with a force that would have shat-
tered the skull of any one but a negro.
occasion goaded to fury by his persecutors.
was, in fact, a
in general, they said, tolerably quiet
a very disgraceful scene.
but on this
I said to
In any European
the pohce would interfere, and prevent this poor maniac
from being tormented.
Have you no madliouse
zuela to which this wretched said
to the police,
might be sent?" "Well,"
you yourself must admit
though our streets are not patrolled in the daji:ime, distur-
bances are rarer here than to
European towns. With regard
people, I never heard of any serious accident from
and so I
their being allowed to go about as they choose;
don't see the use of madhouses here.
more opportunities before you leave Venezuela of forming
an opinion on this subject.
Wliat you see to-day
lunatics are, in general,
an unusual occurrence."
By this time we had reached the hotel, and I parted with C, having first accepted an invitation to dine with him next day. I went to his house accordingly about 7 p.m., and found no one
but himself and the ladies of the family. diinier, a
In the middle of
had not seen
and walked straight up to the hostess, as I thought, apologise, but he said nothing, and,
strangely for a picture,
which he began
after looking at
I thought this rather
curious conduct, but supposed he was some intimate friend or relation,
did not stand on ceremony.
conversation the day before, de lunatico inquirendo, I had forgotten
began to wallc round and round the
sentences, I began to understand the
Presently the buffet,
makes a rush
"it will not be pleasant."
new comer of the case.
such he was, went up to the
and began fumbling with the things
takes up a knife, and I,
some one," thought
However, as no one took any
notice of the intruder, I too said nothing about him, and went
on talking to the lady who dinner.
In a minute or two
me, and eating
ejes wandered back to the
gentleman at the sideboard, when, to
perceived that he had indeed got hold of a knife, with which
he had abeady cut himself pretty severely, for the blood was trickling
and his eyes ghttered
muttering, too, faster than
though he did not
but had his gaze fixed on the wall.
I tried to attract C.'s notice, but, failing to do so, said in a
out, or there will be mischief directly!"
C. glanced quickly at the man, and,
great presence of
mind, fiUed a glass of wine, and rose and offered
moment in a way that was not agreequietly put down the knife, and wall^ed out
looked at C. for a
room without saving
C. resumed his seat
with the greatest composure, and said
" Poor fellow, he
was one of the best scholars in Caracas, and would tainly have distinguished himself
he was en-
and married him.
in love with his brother,
has been insane ever since."
I went away, wondering whether licity that so
after ni}^ arrival at
was by peculiar
Caracas I should have
of this kind, or whether such incidents were
I had not long to wait before learning that they
were by no means rare.
I went one
to a musical
entertainment at the house of a person high in
lady of the house was singing " II Bacio " very charnungiy,
and a group had been formed round
her, near to
which I had
taken a seat with my face towards the door. Presently I saw a
whose peculiar look immediately reminded
the gentleman with the knife at the buffet. like
The new comer,
to the lady of the
a muttering accom-
predecessor, walked straight
house, and in a hoarse voice
paniment, which jarred strangely with the music and the sweet tones of the singer.
Everybody looked annoyed, but
no one spoke
to the intruder
only, the group near the
piano gradually melted away, leaving him standing by him-
he went closer to the lady, who continued to
sing with marvellous self-possession, and leaning over her,
even for her aplomb
and the stranger,
This was too
on the piano.
some incoherent I was too
remarks to the people near him, followed her. far off to see
what took place then, but there was a
which he suddenly went
and I heard the intruder talldng in a loud after
she stopped and wallced
and the party broke up.
This man, I was subsequently informed, was intoxicated as
well as insane, yet no attempt was
was he even told
remove him, nor
the following Sunday I went to breakfast at the house
of the minister of
was a sumptuous enter-
tainment, with very beautiful fruits and flowers displayed
and many more dishes than guests,
were only sixteen.
for of the
place of honour
opposite to the acting president of the republic
old general with an iron constitution, who, unhappily for
to be equally vigorous, plied
every pause in the collation with fruits pleasant to the eye,
and of tolerable
flavour, but to the last degree pernicious to
a person of weak digestive powers.
to these flatter-
ing attentions, the order of vaj meal ran something in this style.
plateful of turtle-soup,
overpowering in quantity, and indifferently cooked fruit of the
custard apple genus
selected for their size
by the general
prepared in a
THE MINISTERIAL BEEAKFAST.
fashion peculiar to the country, boned, and the inside filled
a fricandeau of
some unknown meat
the chief ingredient
being the flesh of the land tortoise; grapes of various kinds;
infinite series of other trifles.
indeed, the meal was too severe for any but the
most languid conversation.
an end, and at
and cigars of exquisite
longest meal must, howafter
was repeated, but on
following, the scene
was the acting president who gave the breakfast.
Having determined not
complaisance, I refused
any more by undue
of fruit, and ate
the president, filling his glass, looked round the table, and
then at me, and said, "Bi'indo treinte mil libras."
senor qui nos ha llevado
gentleman who has
I drink to the
concerted by the wording of the toast, and thinking that
Presentl}", filling his glass again, the old general said,
to the English
government, which has always
been the protector of Venezuela, and has set the best example
This, of com*se, compelled
for free states to follow."
and I expressed the pleasure I had had in
visiting that beautiful countrj-, in
and whose inhabitants, by
lavish of her gifts,
struggle for liberty, fair
which Nature had been so theii'
had shown themselves worthy of such a
was the friend of
and would no doubt support the Venezuelans
in maintaining their independence, as
I was obliged to say in English,
translated what I
to please the
haj)pening to say " Viva la Amarilla
harangue into very small compass.
into pure Castilian,
sion seemed to give great satisfaction,
â€” " Hurrah
which I did when a flower of that colour was
given me, though I had no idea that yellow was the colour of the party in power.
The next speech was
the health of
the ministers, proposed by a red-hot republican,
coursed with immense fluency on the rights of man. other things, he assured us that, as
obstacles to perfect
length removed, Venezuela would
enjoy permanent tranquilHty, during which of the golden age would be restored.
arrested and thrown into prison, while, at the it
one of the ministers and a number of leading
insurrection with which
same time, an
was supposed they were con-
nected, broke out in several of the provinces.
CHAPTER Mistake — Ciudad Bolivar
Major Milligan's and the British Legion Fight between Sambo the Giant and the Irish Sergeant Luisa and Helena Panchito, the Enfant Terrible Popping the Question Too much alike How to clear up a blunder The explanation too late.
" Mistake mistake at
dear sir," said the major, " faith
go and settle
divil a bit of
Wait here a
come back." "But, major," I exclaimed, trying
hand, and was gone in a moment, in
I never to get this
Spaniard comes mixuig up
French and Spanish in such a way that I what he means, except that and when I
attempts to stop him.
" Confound affair
to detain him,
the major that I have got into a quarrel,
without knowing how, and that I think there's some mistake,
he won't listen to a word I have to say, but goes it
without knowing what
off to settle
Well, I suppose I must
he returns, or I get a
message from the
With these words window
half aloud to myself, I turned to the
of the refreshment-room, into
which I had lounged
tliing in the streets of
moon, and every-
Caracas was as visible as at noonday.
and was beginning
I gazed for a long time,
to think of
going away, when I saw a company of soldiers
corner of the street, and advance to the entrance of the theatre.
" Rather an unusual number of men for relieving a sentry," said I to myself; "
what can they want
soldiers ascended the steps officer in
and halted in the lobby.
entered the box from which I had
just issued, and the door of which faced the open door of
the saloon where I was. tall
man who had been
returned immediately, with a
was the muiister of war.
me, and who
minister of war was placed between then-
off to prison.
" thought I, " this is a pleasant country,
one goes from the opera to prison other mistake I was
as orientals say, biting the finger of surprise at
when back came
the arrest I had just witnessed,
With him was the handsome young Spaniard, who had accused
of saying something which
looking quite satisfied
a circumstance I
he spoke to
however, and, taking
but his right arm was in a
had not observed when
wore a bland smile,
hat with his
" Monsieur, I learn there has been a mistake. pears that I deceived myself. tion
Monsieur had no inten-
MAJOE MILLIGAN'S MISTAKE. " Monsieur,"
interrupting liim, " I could have
had no intention of doing or saying anything disagreeable a gentleman
beheve, an entire stranger to
Thereupon the Spaniard bowed, and replaced both then bowed, and he withdrew, with the
" and now
what the deuce
with Inez, you know.
what you said
it is all
that's the Spaniard's
Well, he asked you
over, I hoj)e, as
any one have a
I suppose," said I to the
see," said the major,
friend, before I
most gratifying interview.
" There's the end of the
had a man out
" But, since Enriquez
a Spaniard, what did
I thought about Venezuela ? It
must be a mistake,
" No, faith
cried the major, impatiently
and so I told him, or you wouldn't have forgotten it.
But he him you
you did mane
to offend Enriquez,
so I told
didn't, if he'd step across the street to the
of a friend
where we could fuid a couple of rapiers and some
one to see
went, and at the
him through the sword-arm, and then we and I
pass I ran
up his arm,
he couldn't fight any more, he'd better come
up with you
and so he
and mind the dog,
with the calves of your legs as you mount the
Paying due regard to the major's caution, I managed with
cane to keep
seat like an honest
ginary rascals in
off the attentions of a stout terrier
followed us into the smoking-room,
and then seemg
to snuff at ima-
and bestowed himself under the
Meantime, his master had taken a pipe and
carefully with some of that cave tobacco which
boast of Venezuela,
inscribed on them. in a duel, the
sold in boxes,
man who had
one of his characteristics, and circumstances.
just been engaged
But the exceedmg cahnness
a most serene of his look was
never altered mider any
Another peculiarity of his was the melli-
fluous tone of his voice, which remained
he chose to
unchanged even when
he sometimes did, most despiteful words.
Snow-Avhite hair, too, added to his peaceful appearance
but he was a
and arms of a
of u-on build, with the chest, shoulders,
and a complexion of bronze.
was a renowned dueUist, and had been out with every kind of weapon, and so very often, that he sometimes confused
the incidents of his encounters, and would shake his head
and heave a regretful sigh affau-
after speaking of a
had ended in a miss and a shot in the
in another case, in which his antagonist
wounded, he would close his reminiscences with a smile and a joyous " Faith,
CIUDAD BOLIYAE. " Now, major," said
" for the stoiy you promised me.
In your case there was a mistake, I suppose "
say that," responded the major, settluig him-
easy chau", and opening correspondence with
a fragrant glass of rum-and-water which he had just mixed
for himself. loran, but
there was, and so I tould O'Hal-
he wouldn't beheve
worse luck to him, poor
"It was a
long time ago
see now, yes, faith,
as long back as April, 1821, that I landed at Angostura
Ciudad Bolivar they under the liberator
call it :
smart boy then, with
that's Bolivar, fair hair
the British Legion
and rosy cheeks, just come
from serving in one of the Dulse's crack regiments, life,
and ready for anything, from a
fight to a fandango,
There were many
stealing a kiss to taldng a battery.
board the ship that brought us over from Eiu'ope, but
our liigh spmts could not
we had come
an agreeable one.
northern coast of Venezuela woos the voyager to land with
a glorious bit of scenery, but Guiana, at whose capital
we were about swampy a huge
to disembark, is anything but inviting.
forest as big as
Guiana and the Orinoco.
the middle of
boy,' I said to a fiiend,
with a sprmkling of
think ant-paste a luxury.
ing over the bulwarks looldng at the town,
El Dorado ?
Yet Ealeigh cruised about in
search of palaces of gold in this vast
France and Si)am put together, with
Faith, I tliink,' said he,
what think ye of
that its only virtue
says, as plain as
he'll give half of
can be, that
us permanent quarters on the
"With this on the muddy
m my ear,
pleasant prophecy ringing
quay, and, as the smell at this point was any-
thing but agreeable, and the sun piping hot, I for
and I might have had a
some distance from the
who spoke Spanish, was
but that the adjutant,
I found I was billeted
quarters as fast as possible.
on a Senor Rivas, who lived river
and I had but to put myself under his guidance.
Mighty glad was I
and to take in suc-
cession a cup of good coffee, a cigar, and a siesta.
me most was
that the senor
had two pretty
daughters, Luisa and Helena.
along, as I to
that's left of
mosquitoes have eaten
bedad, I think the said I, rubbing the
" Off we started, and were down at the quay in half the
time we took to come from there, for the
board for some liom-s
was a good reason
was just as well we got
at being kept
after the officers landed,
to save them, namely,
posure to the sun in the heat of the day. *'
called them, soon
Donnelly, the orderly-sergeant, their ill-humour.
FIGHT BETWEEN SAMBO AND THE SEEGEANT. natives
who were helping
was a huge negro.
lots of sinew,
to get thek* kits out of the boats,
stood six feet
and a head
the least, and
like that of a bonassus.
picked up the heaviest box hke a feather, and wallced away
into the water.
out again, but with plenty of black
but, in trying to get hold of too
once, he let one man's kit
Tare and 'ounds,' said the
you great murthering villam
own ugly face
as black as yom*
clothes in your counthrey, with
way you wash
for soap, to
" "With these words he struck the giant a blow on the head as he was leaning over to get hold of
some more boxes.
was a hard knock, and sounded as
stone with a heavy mallet, but
made no more impression
on the African than roused his buffalo
would have done on a
would have done.
one had struck a pa^ing-
however, which he showed very
glared about and,
demon, then went back a few paces,
head down, ran
poor Paddy, who was
squaring away, not expecting that sort of combat, and struck liim full amidships, senduig
the breath out of his body.
blood cannot see a comrade mauled, without coming to the rescue, there all
was soon a ring of fellows round the nigger,
wanting to revenge Paddy's disaster.
But one down,
and another come on, blackey was a match and one
another down they went, none to
them aU of
do with an antagonist who came on like
a ram. o 2
" Tilings were looking entirely onpleasant,' as poor Padcty, *
who had begun
the fight, and
who was now sittmg up
when Donnelly stepped up
jutant, and, touching his cap, said
By yer honour's "'Oh! of course, *
to the ad-
Donnelly, of course,' replied Power;
a trice the sergeant
had stripped, stepped into the
and confronted the African.
was a small man,
compared with his antagonist, and rather too a gladiator
fine clear blue
eyes were bright with confidence.
In love and war gestures
and no sooner did Donnell}' present himself
the negro retreated, as before, a few i^aces, lowered his
head, and came thundermg at
but he was 3'oung, muscular, active as a deer,
There was no need of
this time the issue
him Donnelly made
from that of the
Just as the negro was almost upon
a side spring at him, and struck
tremendous blow in the face with his knee,
time planting a right-hander behind his ear that would have
stunned an ox.
effect of this judicious apx)eal to
knowledge-box of the African was to drive him obliquely headlong to the ground, the blood streaming from his nose
One would have thought that his late defeat would have taught him caution, and that he would have and mouth.
more, and rushed upon Donnelty,
rose, lowered his lil^e
he was met, and his rush turned aside,
a thunderbolt. bj'
a fearful blow from
Donnelly's knee, of such force that the negro turned a com-
SAMBO DEFEATED. plete somersault,
tins time without
on his back, and
have killed the black baste this
time enth'ely,' was the exclamation that gi'eeted the victor.
Power and lift
afraid that the
up, and give
hun some brandy.
After a time he
Night fell before our labom's in supermtenduig the land-
ing of the
were over, and we were glad to get back to
om' quarters without any further rambling about the
The miasmatic after the
sun goes down, and, to say notlung of the mos-
quitoes, all sorts of noxious insects for
which reasons, or
people there soon **
influences at Angostm'a are mcreased tenfold
reptiles get abroad,
for others as good, that I don't
for then* beds."
that, major," said I, interrupting
what the consul in Guiana related
happened to him be a common occurrence.
me as He said
somewhere in the environs of Angostura, and had gone sleep in his
hammock, with his sHppers on the ground within
easy reach. to get
Being an imconscionabty early
to thrust his foot into
when he found
thing odiously cold and shmy.
made the same attempt result,
at the other shpper,
and with the
was hght, when,
horror, he discovered a small rattlesnake " slipper !
Snatching back his
on which he was fain to clothes
and before he could
faint streak of light,
so putting his foot out of the
his gieat toe for his shpper, and, having found
" Your example still
queer things do happen in Guiana.
quoth the major,
It is a fact that
the river has been in flood, i)eople have been taken
But, to return to
lions of the town.
a day sufficed to exhaust the
Angostura by alHgators.
been used up, no resource was
other amusements had
with one of the senoritas in whose father's house I was living.
family of Senor Rivas consisted only of these
two daughters, of wdiom the elder was nearly nineteen, the
younger seventeen, and of one son, Francisco, who went by the famihar regular
of Panchito, a
who, as the manner
generally running about naked. Vi]i
ever, of saying sweet
sporting plu'ase, there
w^ere rare, for in
together, that, to use a at
time, too, I was in doubt as to which of the two
was to have
no getting single shots
with brown hair, an unusual
After a few weeks I j)icked
ladies of a family keep so
boy of seven, a
to let the tongue assist the eyes in
tender expressions to the
Luisa was very
bright, sparlduig, roguish, a very pretty bru-
and, altogether, very
TJj)on the whole,
thoughts rather inclined to Luisa, and on one occasion,
having caught her for a
moment unguarded by
dragon, I went so far as to ask interview alone.
She said she
and I had only just time Idss before I left
she would grant
to say I
hoped I might have one
Angostura, and to hear her reply in the
shape of an intimation, accompanied by a faint blush, that
LUISA AND HELENA. it
was not the custom in Venezuela, -when her mother Meantime, Power, though he was so busy
rejoined us. Avith diill
and the other duties of an adjutant, did not
observe what was going on, and took
than once about
said he, 'what
marry one of
Don, who has been
to the old
as for marriage,
on earth are you
you don't mean
table to us, to give one of his
beauties a sore heart.
out of the question.
the route to-morrow, and have to join Bolivar, and
knows how many of us no cash, and at
to task more
after with those girls ?
Besides, you have
events I hope j'ou don't
down here and tm-n cane-planter.' " I said that several
who had been
our arrival had married, and
in the comitry
to be very
and I instanced O'Halloran, who had been made
a captain in our corps.
the liappmess of having to leave your wife for places which
enemy's hands proves
as likely as
O'Halloran has married a very pretty
about the most
met, and gives
him no end
de^il I ever
" Power's remarks made an impression on me, and for
some weeks I rather shunned than sought the lining in the
same house with them, and being yomig,
was not easy to be on cool terms with two
yomig beauties, whose looks showed they were vexed assumed
self-imposed restraint increased
likmg for Luisa was
mornmg Power came hurriedly into the room where sitting, and slapping me on the shoulder, cried out
join Bolivar in the Apure.
than a month
Ave shall see,
in ten days, and in
I expect, what the Sx^aniards
me jump up and
that reigned before.
same time that I threw the book I was
reading up to the ceihng. all
This glorious news made
the route has come,
report soon spread, and
and excitement in place of the ennui AVe
all set to
buy horses and
mules, and to prepare for the expedition, while the principal inhabitants vied with one another in entertaining us. particular, the
of the garrison sent out invi-
tations to every officer in the place to a ball for the night
but one before our departure.
to be on a
only difficulty was to
said this entertam-
miique for Angostura.
fmd a place
the numbers invited, for even the town-hall was too small but,
by dint of certain contrivances in the shape of tempo-
rary pavilions, this was got over. **
Meantime, what with the
tions, preparations for the
march, and the anticipations of
pulse was up to fever heat.
good resolutions went
to the place
lutions have been going for so rally favom^s the audacious,
make me worthy
and m}^ excitement seemed to
of the smiles of the ficlde goddess.
to have a
BEHIND THE SCEEEN.
interview with Liiisa, and I tliouglit only of the pleasiu'e
of a conversation ^\ith her alone, without caring for the result, or prescribing to
myself any rules for what I should
do or say on the occasion. even to
was no easy matter, however,
Luisa know what I was scheming.
several fruitless attempts,
recourse to the old expedient of bribing the lady's maid.
who waited on
the seFioritas in that capacity, was
not quite thii'teen years old, but with a
beyond her years.
She was a
with weU-chiseUed featm-es, a very faiiy in the symmetry of
under pretence of bringmg
cou^jle of reals,
She soon understood that I wanted
and then produced a note I had written it,
her as to the possibiHty of obtaining a
heavy tread assm-ed
'El amo,' screen,
coming along the
buying mules, I suppose I have
had some experience.
behind a mampara, or
/or as for the
said Eivas, entermg.
cigar with you,
to breakfast this morning.
advice for your march.
m the day as at night by
washmg-apxmratus, and so turned
bed-room into a sitting-room is
I began to sound
She was in the act of suggesting a plan
a cup of coffee,
I broke ground by giving her a
but, before entrusting her with
and to give you
me, for I have
marched with BoHvar from Ocana
and have been out with Paez in the Apiire more
"With these words the worthy senor seated
himself, and went on, interminably as
recomiting his adventm-es,
womid up my
last I interrupted a
smoking, and prosing to an
feelings to a pitch of desperation.
long story by declaring that I was
obliged to go out to look at a horse I thought of buying. It
was an unlucky excuse,
Eivas declared he would
walk with me.
" 'Panchito,' he called to the urchin who just then ran
yom* mother I want to speak to her for
The madre has gone over
Ochoa's,' said Panchito, arresting his
into the room. *'
send her with
replied the enfant terrible.
I saw her
bring the Ingles some coffee half-an-hom' ago*'
has the Ingles swallowed her along with the
or has he put her in his pocket ?
laughing, and rapping his son slightly on the head with his cane.
" Perhaps he has hidden her behind the
Panchito, and the httle wretch
dart to get
I caught him, but too late to prevent
of the screen, and
came with the
him laymg hold
exclaimed the old Don, starmg at the
and starting back, while his yellow face assumed a cadaverous
hue with surprise and
me, he added,
Senor, I have been giving you some hints for campaign-
conclude by advising you never to
THE BALL. foray in
a friend's hacienda.'
quitted the room, and was
followed by Teresa and Panchito, the latter ruefully rubbing
had been bruised by the
his head, wliicli **
Left to myself, I could not help laughing at what had
occurred, though I was excessively vexed
I reflected, too, that Kivas would probably
at the contre-
and that so the
by which improved.
would become Imown
position with lier would, I thought, hardly be
It turned out that I
this part of
was wrong, however,
The next time
Senora and her daughters, the former indeed showed that she was displeased by her
the halfrtimid, half-arch glances of the
undefinable something in their manner, that they
had taken fact,
and by an
knew what The
and were by no means offended.
no doubt, was, as
convinces me, that Teresa
seiiorita believe that
I was in love with her, and each was too conscious of her
own charms that she reall}^
any jealousy of Teresa, or to doubt
any purpose but what she
Opportunity for explanation there was none,
but I consoled myself with the knowledge that we should
at the ball,
and I was determmed to
"Parties begin at an early hour in Venezuela. P.M., the night after
adventure with Teresa, I found
myself dancmg with Luisa at the commandant's
room was crammed
and the most jealous
chaperone could hardly in such a crowd mamtain a successful espionage
on the doings of the
I gave Luisa
we had Laughed over
her hand for the next dance.
danced with her and
supper, I drank glass after glass of wine, and began to
commit sundry extravagances. I refused it
unless she would bite
In short, I
ended by an
I then devoured
lost control of myself,
marriage, couched in the wildest terms
I was accepted, and
of extravagant devotion.
would, perhaps, have
too demonstrative, had not
Luisa just then, perceiving her mother enter the supperroom, suddenl}' quitted will be so glad to
side with the remarlc,
she has wished for this so
" Lnpulsive persons are subject to violent reaction.
that," continued the major
then particularly subject to such
hand was '
thinking over laid
I stood for a
shoulder, and a well-known voice said,
Don't lose jour time in thinking, Charlie, but go back to
somehow disturbed me, and
" but I was
shan't have any
was Power, and I could not
who knew my
would have been better had I thought a
my manner thoroughly. He had
short speech having
more, especially before acting.'
dancing with Luisa, and
excited his suspicions, he said at once,
have not been making yourself a fool with one of those
'Indeed, but I have though,' I replied.
TOO MUCH ALIKE.
Then I not make your-
proposed to Luisa, and she has accepted me.' forbid the banns,' said Power.
such a blockhead.
there they are,' he added,
looking round and seemg Luisa with her mother. old
woman mood I
should have quarrelled with Power for this
but Luisa's partmg remark had created a disagree-
mind, which was heightened by this
Seeing his advantage. Power set hunself to improve
the opportunity at once.
a reasonable fellow, Charlie,'
I go and
sha'n't have the
proposing to her, that I meant nothing
then resummg his usual bright look, exclaimed,
Power thought a moment with rather a
very well to say break
I to do
to applj- for leave of absence just
the deuce can
march the day
going to meet the enemy
having hooked you.'
/ I'll bet
of speaking to Luisa
and, moreover, I won't trust joiw corn-age in that quarter.
the question to her sister.
hear no more of the matter.' filled
on't, after that j^ou'll
"With these words
a tumbler of champagne.
my mind "Now it
and then go and pop
to follow his advice.
happened that Helena was dressed that
night rather peculiarly.
She wore a pink
bodice and a
white muslin skirt with very deep flounces of Venezuelan lace,
and I remembered
was a good
costume for a
ball, as a
her colours a long way to myself,
her for so
partner in search of her could
soon find her,' said I
how shall I account for having neglected many dances, and then commg all at once and but
proiDosmg to her
perhaps I had better
a note in her hand, and then vanish.
Dearest, I have in vain tried to conceal
myself that your love
I have appeared
another quarter, this has only been a ejes,
not given to another.
I see now, or
which indeed has long been
I think I see, that you are free
the eve of leaving you,
I can no longer restrain them.
Acting on this idea, I
one of the retiring-rooms, got pencil and
to be engrosser]
I have promised
but I don't half like the thing,
paper, and wrote,
signed this effusion, I returned to the refreshment-room, and, fortifying myself with several additional bumpers, I
proceeded in search of Helena.
great quantity of
wine I had taken, the heat and excitement I effect
with several people, and
which sounded oddly even
must get out
came on the pink bodice.
in a thick voice, I was conscious of
into the air, or
Just at that
The wearer was not
an unpleasant exhibition of myself. I