Experience Travel and Living Vol.7 No.3 2011

T H E

8 T H

A N N I V E R S A R Y

I S S U E

CONTENTS

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Handsome cottages seem to emerge from the waters at the feet of limestone cliffs at the Apulit Island Resort, in Taytay, in northern Palawan. Formerly the Club Noah Isabelle, the resort was acquired by Ayala Landinfused Asian Conservation Company/Ten Knots, owners and operators of the El Nido Resorts, the outstanding and environmental-conscious enclaves in the neighboring ABOUT THE COVER town of El Nido. Apulit Island Resort has the biggest island among the three resorts and offers similar activities and amenities as those in El Nido. PHOTO BY DONALD TAPAN.

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Travel Features

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Explore 20 Reinerio Alba attempts to go to the heart of Marinduque 32 Gesel Mangilit gets enchanted by the Camotes Islands

Experience 52 Gregg Yan searches for Borneo’s pygmy forest elephants 58 Dheza Marie Aguilar gets romanced by Italy 66 Philtoa lists the Ten Luxe Destinations

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Exalt

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70 Roel Hoang Manipon joins the Marian Voyage of Peace and Love during Cagayan Day

Escape 76 Roel Hoang Manipon goes on a dreamy adventure at El Nido Resorts and Apulit Island Resort 84 Gesel Mangilit takes a dip at Sea’s Spring Resort

Other Departments Leisure and Adventure 88 Henrylito Tacio embarks on a river cruise in Tagum City 92 White water rafting in Isabela’s Abuan River 94 Ayo Gunting talks about white water rafting in Davao City 96 Excel Dyquiangco witnesses the Subic Bay Yacht Club Regatta 100 Gesel Mangilit shows her mettle in white water rafting in Cagayan de Oro Accommodations 104 Best Western Antel Spa Suites 108 The Ritz Hotel at Garden Oases Endeavor 114 Roel Hoang Manipon visits the EDC Energy Camp in Negros Oriental 118 Gesel Mangilit takes a peek at the crocodiles of Coral Farms Dining 94 7th Note Café of 7Stones Boracay Suites 4

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EXPERIENCE Travel and Living Volume 7 Number 3, 2011

128 Shopping 124 Island Girl lays out its products and history Transport 128 Air New Zealand gets lauded

Regular Sections 6 Publisher’s Note 12 Contributors 8 Editor’s Note 14 Postings

130 Travel Directory 134 Travel Calendar

138 Parting Shot

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

Publisher’s Note

How time flies….Eight years ago, it was just a dream. Then the dream became reality. It was unbelievable but conceivable.

After eight years in the publishing business, we realize that sometimes being down has an upside. We learn more about the business, to let go of the past, to heal and to move forward. I believe in sharing what I have, in thought, words and in deeds. We talk and sort things out. With the past ups and downs, I see the difference between loyalty and honesty. It makes me reexamine the way we approach things.

I am very passionate about what we do, and I believe we can do it! Of course, the belief that “nobody does it better” does not apply in current travel trends and insights. Each one has his own way of approaching and dealing with things and has his own editorial directions. And choosing the perfect team can be very difficult. We found ourselves very lucky to have an editorial team which has the same passion as ours, the commitment and of course the love for travel and discovering new things. These people—my extraordinary team—share the same visions including influencing people to travel. Going differently each time we travel makes it more extraordinary.

And now as we move forward, expect something different, new adventures and updates on the travel industry as we continue to explore the world.

In commemoration of our eight years, we choose to share a part of our budget to charity, because we believe in sharing our blessings to the needy.

Let me take this opportunity to thank the people behind the success of Experience Travel and Living who went the extra mile to realize our vision: Roel Hoang Manipon, the editor in chief; Gesel Mangilit, associate editor; Donald Tapan, chief photographer; and the rest of the editorial team.

These people make the difference. And of course, the whole St. Uriel Publishing Inc. people who are also integral in making all things happen.

Speaking of vision, we guarantee you that the people mentioned above turn our visions into reality and even turn them extraordinary!

To all of us, move forward on a road cleared and cleaned to pass for another eight more years!

Cheers!

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EXPERIENCE Travel and Living Volume 7 Number 3, 2011

EDITOR’S NOTE

Editor’s Note

This year, Experience Travel and Living magazine is celebrating its eight-year anniversary. I have been with the magazine for seven years. I am surprised that it has been that long. With so many things to do recently, trips to be scheduled, articles to write and edit, places to explore, love to take care of, books to read, foods to savor, unending things to learn about, I did not feel that time has passed by. It is a good thing, I guess, not feeling the passing of times, as if you are frozen in time. It keeps one young, I guess. One has to keep learning, going, doing things one is passionate about, exploring—they keep you young. But at the same time you grow in the sense that you are enriched, your soul/ mind nourished, your zest for life sharpened. Knowledge and learning sharpen the appreciation for life.

Travel is a rich source of knowledge. With knowledge

Editor in chief Roel Hoang Manipon attended the La Union Surfing Break in Urbiztondo, San Juan (top), and learned how to scuba-dive in Verde Island, Batangas City, Batangas (top, right). Recently, he was at the Apulit Island Resort in Taytay, Palawan, where he climbed a limestone outcrop to get a panoramic picture of the resort (middle). He was with his beloved Bob Jerezo in El Nido Resorts (above), where they visited a sandbar behind Lagen Island Resort, which is used for private romantic dinners.

Erratum:

and understanding, you can live life to the fullest.

It is a heartening thing that more and more Filipinos are discovering the joys of traveling, spurring domestic tourism. If not to find greener pastures or brought by work, Filipinos are not known as travelers. That’s why there is a dearth of travel writing by Filipinos. It is only now that Filipinos are experiencing travel by itself and discovering its profound pleasures. Now, many travel blogs are popping up. Filipinos are posting photographs of their latest forays in Facebook.

The photos whet the appetite of others for travel. Many of the travels though are excursions or vacations. Many go for the beach and the swimming. They may go to a waterfall or an interesting site, take photographs and leave. Several seem bent on finding a venue for drinking. While these are part of the experience, travel is not limited to that. In the core of travel is learning. It is about discovering a place and how it changes you. It is interacting with the place and its people and culture, experiencing something different from what you came from or grew up with. In the end, you understand more. The pleasures of these are unmatchable.

Last May, National Heritage Month is celebrated, but not many people know about it. When you visit a place, get to know its history and heritage. It is part of all of us. You can start with churches. Many towns in the Philippines have old churches. Most likely, the church is the oldest structure in a town or city. Get to know if there is a dish unique to area and have a taste. Visit a museum if there is one. Visit the market. It is a colourful venture. There are many things to discover.

Now that we have the means to travel, we must take it to another level. One must not only travel far. More importantly, one must travel with depth.

For years, Experience Travel and Living magazine tries to feature beautiful places as well as promote the pleasures of traveling. It also in subtle ways shows the anatomy of those pleasures—the culture, the history, the flora and fauna, the tastes, the colors, etc. As the travels we have embarked on, we hope the magazine has also grown but remains vibrant.

In this anniversary issue, take pleasure in the oeuvres of leisure and exploration. We have a feature on Marinduque, touted as the center of the Philippines. Also, there is the Camotes Islands, which is a seldom explored place. Get the thrill of encountering a rare animal just like in the article about the quest for the pygmy forest elephant in Borneo. Feel the romance of a place just like Dheza Aguilar has in Italy. Then, I have a feature on El Nido Resorts in Bacuit Bay, one of my favorite places in the country. The beauty of the place is awe-inspiring. Not only that but the resort encourages you to learn. They give a checklist of animals found in the area to guests. This is the start of the visitor’s learning of the fascinating fauna in the area. With learning comes the desire for environmental conservation. Passion is fuelled by knowledge and learning. You must have passion to live life to the fullest. Hopefully, despite setbacks and struggles, our passion shines through in the pages of this magazine.

Roel Hoang Manipon Editor in Chief

In the article “Bellarocca Island Resort and Spa: The Rock That Refreshes” in the volume 7, number 1 issue of Experience travel and living magazine, Discovery Shores in Boracay is listed in the properties managed by Genesis along with Bellarocca Island Resort and Spa. Discovery Shores is not managed by Genesis, whose property in Boracay is actually Astoria Boracay. We apologize for the oversight.

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EXPERIENCE Travel and Living Volume 7 Number 3, 2011

Leisure’s Many Facets

The Peak, Terrazas

de Punta Fuego Nasugbu, Batanga s

Playa Calatagan Calatagan, Batangas

Peninsula de Punta Fuego Nasugbu, Batangas

Upscale leisure developer Landco Pacific Corporation has consistently pioneered innovative and outstanding lifestyle products that revolutionize the way people live. Its flagship development Peninsula de Punta Fuego in Nasugbu, Batangas is the country’s first private and exclusive seaside residential resort, blending the wonders of sand, sky and sea with world-class resort amenities. This was quickly followed up by its highly anticipated sequel, Terrazas de Punta Fuego and Amara en Terrazas, a luxury oceanfront condominium offering scenic views of the South China Sea. Other noteworthy leisure communities are the award-winning Leisure Farms (Lemery, Batangas), Ponderosa Leisure Farms (Silang, Cavite), Hacienda Escudero (Tiaong, Quezon) and the Playa Series (Playa Calatagan in Calatgan, Batangas; Playa Laiya in San Juan, Batangas; and Playa Azalea in Samal Island, Davao). Its brand promise “Life at Your Leisure” is at the heart of all Landco’s properties—even in urban communities Tribeca Private Residences in Sucat, Muntinlupa and Stonecrest in San Pedro, Laguna as well as in hometown communities, Landco’s signature blue-label primary homes located in various provinces nationwide such as WoodGrove Park in San Fernando, Pampanga; Waterwood Park in Baliuag, Bulacan; MonteLago Nature Estates in San Pablo, Laguna; Woodside Park in Calasiao, Pangasinan; The Courtyard at Lakewood Golf Estates in Cabanatuan, Nueva Ecija; and Woodridge Garden Village in Zamboanga City.

For 21 years, Landco has changed the Philippine landscape by providing its discriminating clientele with leisure’s many facets through high-end, resort-inspired leisure, hometown and urban communities. What's your idea of leisure? Whether it's sailing in crystal-clear blue waters, harvesting farmfresh vegetables in your very own garden, or biking down beautiful tree-lined paths, you're sure to find it in a Landco development.

For more information please call 836-5000, email customerrelations@landco.ph or visit www.landco.ph.

Playa Laiya San Juan, Batangas

WoodGrove Park ga San Fernando, Pampan

Volume 7, Number 3, 2011

ADMINISTRATIVE

EDITORIAL

CELESTINO D. UNTAL JR.

ROEL HOANG MANIPON

Chairman

Editor-in-Chief

MARIA EVELYN C. UNTAL

GESEL P. MANGILIT

Publisher/Managing Director

RUZIELL STO. TOMAS Director of Marketing and Promotions

CHIQUI TALABIS LENIE KAMANTIGUE Advertising Account Officer

FE MARCELINO Finance/Comptroller

ROSITA RAYMUNDO Credit/Collection

Associate Editor

NEIL MARIANO Creative Director

DONALD TAPAN Chief Photographer

REINERIO A. ALBA DHEZA MARIE AGUILAR EXCEL D. DYQUIANGCO RAYMUND MAGNOS GARLITOS AYO GUNTING HENRYLITO TACIO GREGG YAN Contributing Writers

STRATEGIC MINDS MARKETING Advertising/Business Development

FE MARCELINO Contributing Photographer

RHEA VILLAREAL Operations /Administration Officer

CARMINA TUNAY MARIAN PATIAG

DENNY ALONZO

Editorial Assistants

Corporate Secretary

GABRIEL AND MENDOZA Legal Counsel

CIRCULATION AITCHITO J. CONEJOS Circulation/Liaison Officer

INTERNATIONAL REPRESENTATIVES LOLITA DUBLIN

PRISCILLA C. RAMOS Liaison Officer in Cebu

Liaison Officer in Washington, DC

EVA U. TRIMBLE Liaison Officer in Columbus, Ohio

PATRICIA DUBLIN Liaison Officer in New York

CRIS VINZONS MARIA ESPERANZA SAN JOSE Liaison Officers in Dubai, UAE

NOEL D. UNTAL Liaison Officer in Thailand

JO ANNE C. MABBAYAD Liaison Officer in Singapore

JALILUL C. CONEJOS Liaison Officer in Toronto, Canada

TATAK PILIPINO STORE Circulation/Distribution in Palisade Avenue Jersey City, NJ

Experience Travel and Living magazine is published quarterly by St. Uriel Publishing, Inc., with business address at Unit 7G, Vernida I Condominium, 120 Amorsolo St., Legaspi Village, Makati City, Metro Manila, Philippines 1200.

Telephone numbers: (+63 2) 4942866, (+63 2) 2276074 and (+63 2) 4915159 Find us at www.issuu.com Email: experiencetravelandliving@gmail.com Web site: www.experiencetravelandliving.com The magazine and its editors assume no responsibility for all manuscripts and photographs submitted. While every reasonable effort is made to verify information, facts and figures, the magazine and its editors assume no responsibility for errors or misrepresentations that may appear in the publication. Opinions expressed in Experience Travel and Living are solely those of the writers and not necessarily endorsed by the company and its editors.

Printed in the Philippines.

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. No part of the magazine may be reproduced in full or in part without prior written permission from the editors.

OUR CONTRIBUTORS

Reinerio A. Alba is currently the content editor of the official Web site (www.ncca.gov.ph) of the National Commission for Culture and the Arts.

He loves that his work involves travel and that he gets to have personal travels as well with friends and family. He adores Kerima Polotan Tuvera for her insightful essays, and almost always finds himself flipping through her book Adventures in a Forgotten Country each time he travels.

Dheza Marie Aguilar is a freelance travel writer and news correspondent who moved to the Netherlands for love. While she is not visiting ports and inspecting ships for her day job, she is traveling around Europe looking for the best restaurants and the most good-looking waiters. Or sitting at home drinking Macallan and whacking her brains out understanding the Dutch language. You can follow her adventures at www.theweekendtraveller.com or watch her on ANC every once in a while.

Aside writing for magazines, Excel V. Dyquiangco authors children’s stories, surfs the net a lot and travels around the country in his own pace. When he is not too busy, he spends much of his time answering emails and posting on walls.

He has already co-authored a novel published and released last July, and one of his stories is also part of an anthology published by the De La Salle University. He currently lives in Quezon City with his two dogs.

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Raymund Magno Garlítos is a journalist, poet, editor, translator and children’s book writer. He has won several Palanca and Talaang Ginto awards for poetry, a Gintong Aklat Award for Best Book in Children’s Literature, grand prize at the Philippine Board on Books for Young People’s Salanga Writers’ Prize and the International Board on Books for Young People (IBBY) Honour Diploma for Excellence in Translation. Some of his journalistic works have appeared in newspapers like The Manila Bulletin and The Daily Tribune, magazines like Cruising, Art Manila and many others. Under the nom de plume Rhandee Garlítos, he wrote the award-winning and bestselling children’s books Chenelyn! Chenelyn! and May Higante sa Loob ng Aming Bahay (Adarna House) and will have forthcoming books slated for launch this year.

When in travel, he makes it a point to bring home delicacies from a place, buy bracelets and necklaces that bear the traits of the places he visited and take photographs on his digital camera without his face on them. Always never at ease at home where he does most of his writing work, he takes time to pet the two dogs and eight cats or smell the fragrances of the herbs and flowers from his fiercely blooming terrace garden or watching TV with his daughter and mother to relax.

Inspired by an aging pile of National Geographic magazines, Gregg Yan quit his corporate job to join the World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF). Since then he has written on a diverse range of topics ranging from oil spills to satellite tagging for whale sharks. Through the years he has been chased by marauding elephants, armed rebels and a very big barracuda. His goal is to convince people that going green makes lives much, much better.

POSTINGS

(available this July only). Catch these delicious offerings at The Bellevue Hotel! For inquiries, call (+63 2) 771-8181.

VIEW | Edwin Wilwayco at the Galleria Duemila

BRING | The Safest and Quickest Relief from Pain

The all new Cortal SQR has a new advanced formulation that combines ibuprofen and paracetamol, gives the safest and quickest relief from body pain.

In less than fifteen minutes, Cortal SQR promises to eliminate any kind of musculoskeletal pains such as joint pain, myalgia, arthritis, rheumatism, sprain, strain, bursitis, tendonitis, backache and stiff neck, among others.

It can also reduce fever as well as provide relief for tension headache, dysmenorrhea, toothache and pain caused by minor surgical operations.

The combination of ibuprofen and paracetamol is said to have been proven highly compatible and very effective in relieving pain, Paracetamol offers fast relief from pain while ibuprofen provides longer time efficacy.

Cortal SQR is said to work faster as it easily dissolves and is absorbed by the body faster. It has a high absorption rate of 90 percent, contributing to the efficacy of pain relief in the human body.

To best experience the pain relief offered by Cortal SQR, you may take one tablet every six hours or as prescribed by a physician.

Cortal SQR was chosen as the official pain reliever of the Azkals, the Philippine National Football Team.

Cortal SQR, retailed for Php6.50 per tablet, was acquired from GlaxoSmithKline Philippines by Pharma-Rex, a pharmaceutical company that aims to provide affordable quality medicines to Filipinos.

EAT | Refreshing Snacks at The Bellevue’s Tower Wing Poolside

Families and barkadas can look forward to another unique way of enjoying great food as The Bellevue Hotel, the luxurious destination in the Southern Metro, lets them enjoy refreshing snacks at the hotel’s magnificent Tower Wing poolside (located at the third floor). Amidst the cool, blue waters and the relaxing ambiance, guests can chill out with their loves while relishing their sumptuous set of snacks with drinks. The appetizing menu selection includes bolognese pasta with garlic bread, carbonara fettuccine, Napolitana Italiana fussili, ham and cheese sandwich, hotdog au bun (available until August) or the flavorsome Philly cheesesteak sandwich

United States-based Filipino painter Edwin Wilwayco reveals his latest body of work at Galleria Duemila in a show that gives proof why he has become one the country’s highly esteemed lyrical abstractionists. Recently settled in Providence, Rhode Island, Wilwayco returns home to the Philippines to put his most recent oil paintings.

In an array of colors and sizes, these works evoke a confidence with canvas that can only come from years of mastery. Each stroke—whether to unmask the undercoating or to punctuate a surface with a swath of colour—originates from a deep contemplation on how to render idea and emotion onto paint and panel.

Wilwayco’s previous oeuvres—heavily inspired by music and the environment—have always had an irenic dynamism in them. One sees this in the Wind on Water and in the red earth forms in Dance of the Little Fairies. Looking at such pieces, dutily informed by his surroundings, viewers are pulled in to meditate and imagine.

Material becomes spiritual. But Wilwayco, too, tries something different in this set. From Border Crossing, a marbled, pigeon-grey fan triptych to the patchwork-like Riverside Drive, Wilwayco veers away from familiar blues and yellows and explores the challenge offered by monotone.

“Much like an old photograph, I wanted to work on tonal values,” Wilwayco says. These experiments on shifts in light and less on color shows a constancy in his vision for this medium. Indeed, abstractionism has not yet reach its limit.

Art critic Cid Reyes writes: “These current abstractions are emanations of his ardor and passion for nature, rooted in the landscape paradigm of so many abstractionists, from Hans Hoffman (‘I bring the landscape home with me’), Joan Mitchell (‘I carry my landscapes around with me’) to Jackson Pollock, who thundered, ‘I am Nature!’ With such awesome forbears, no wonder that abstraction has become second nature to Edwin Wilwayco.”

“Second Nature” by Edwin Wilwayco runs from August 6 to 29, 2011, at the Galleria Duemila, 210 Loring Street, Pasay City, Philippines.

Wilwayco will also be part of a three-man show organized by the Philippine embassy in Sweden this autumn. His works will be on view at Estonian National Library in Tallinn from September 20 to 26, the Lithuanian Art Museum in Vilnius from October 6 to 9, the Foreign Art Museum in Riga, Latvia, from October 10 to 14 and the Ersta Sköndal University College in Stockholm from October 14 to 18.

For more information, contact Thess Ponce of Galleria Duemila through telephone number (+63 2) 831-9990, telefax number (+63 2) 833-9815, email duemila@mydestiny.net or visit Web site at www.galleriaduemila.com.

In celebration with its 35th anniversary, Galleria Duemila will be having exhibits of various talented artists all through out this year.

READ | Hit Blog Now a Book

Lourd Ernest Hanopol de Veyra is of many things at once: front man of the band Radioactive Sago Project, TV personality, poet, writer/author and blogger. His two-year-old blog This is a Crazy Planets has gained a large 14

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following on Spot.ph, and his best works are now compiled in a book of the same title.

“As we expanded the Web site’s coverage to feature the latest in Manila life, culture, politics and entertainment, Spot.ph plus Lourd made the most natural ‘only in the Philippines’ combo, like champorado and tuyo, tuyo and suka, suka and sili,” says Myrza Sison, editor-in-chief of Spot.ph and editorial director of Summit Media.

FHM editor-in-chief Allan Madrilejos, who was instrumental in getting De Veyra to blog for Spot.ph, adds: “The idea was to get someone who could write insightful, humorous, irreverent commentary on Pinoy pop culture…He was the unanimous choice—sukat na sukat ang kabaliwan niya para rito.”

With De Veyra’s various entries on everyday life’s absurdities, This is a Crazy Planets mirrors Filipino pop culture in a way that is both humorous and endearing.

“Lourd is able to say what we’re dying to say, but can’t—or can’t articulate well enough,” says Sison.

The book This is a Crazy Planets compiles Lourd’s best blog entries and includes some unpublished works. A book launch was recently held last June 23 at Route 196, Katipunan Avenue, Quezon City, and featured a reading by the author, a book signing session and performances by Radioactive Sago Project.

This is a Crazy Planets is available in newsstands, bookstores and supermarkets nationwide for only PhP195.

KNOW | Tuncay Bockin is the New General Manager of Crowne Plaza and Holiday Inn Manila Galleria

Crowne Plaza and Holiday Inn Manila Galleria welcomed its new general manager, Tuncay Bockin, a charismatic American with Turkish heritage, trained at the world-renowned César Ritz Colleges in Le Bouveret, Switzerland.

Tuncay has 30 years of extensive hospitality experience in three continents, North America, Asia and Europe. He spent the last ten years with the InterContinental Hotels Group (IHG) in various capacities across Europe and Asia. Tuncay’s accomplishments include a successful hotel launch under pre-opening budget, achieving profitability within six months of operation, and people development.

With his very recent posting, Tuncay has already built rapport to the fellow employees. He has spread a positive work atmosphere and shares with his team the message, “We work better together.” In spite of fierce competition in the area, Tuncay believes that Crowne Plaza and Holiday Inn should capitalize on their convenient location, quality of the service and consistency in delivering the IHG promise of “great hotel guests love.”

Manila is Tuncay’s second assignment in Asia-Pacific, following his previous posting in Holiday Inn Cha-am in Thailand. He admits being charmed by the Filipino people he has had the genuine pleasure of knowing. Now in Manila, he and his wife Ulvia are looking forward to winning a lot more friends, drawing in a lot more smiles, and enjoying more of the life-changing experience that only living in the Philippines can offer.

WEAR | Introducing Next Generation Nike Zoom Hyperfuse and Nike Zoom Hyperdunk

Nike introduces high performance footwear in the next generation Nike Zoom Hyperfuse 2011 and Nike Zoom Hyperdunk 2011, both combining technical innovations and advantages. Designed for the player looking for breathability, durability, stability and lightweight footwear, both shoes are built with intuitive design principals.

“Our mission at Nike Basketball is to design footwear that gives players an advantage on the court,” said Leo Chang, Nike basketball footwear design director. “When designing the Nike Zoom Hyperfuse 2011 and Nike Zoom Hyperdunk 2011, our goal was to maximize durability, breathability and stability with an aggressive aesthetic that sets a new benchmark for the industry.”

After observing the extreme wear and tear on footwear on the blacktop basketball courts of China in 2009, the Nike design team employed the new innovation to create a breathable, stable and resilient basketball shoe called the Nike Hyperfuse. Hyperfuse construction creates a durable composite material composed of three layers—one for stability, one for breathability and the third for durability. All three layers are fused together using heat and pressure to create a level of precision unattainable via traditional cut-andsew methods.

Hyperfuse construction made a strong statement in basketball and has been adopted in running, training and sportswear. These styles feature a unibody design resulting in lightweight, breathable footwear that minimizes seams that can wear on an athlete’s foot. In its second generation, at 12.5 ounces in a men’s size 9, the Nike Zoom Hyperfuse 2011 basketball shoe minimizes bulky weight while featuring optimal breathability and comfort. New mesh zones, a midsole wrap and a reinforced collar uphold Nike Basketball’s design mandate to maximize superior performance innovations.

Introduced the summer of 2008 in Beijing, the Nike Hyperdunk shattered the standards for basketball shoe design. With the introduction of Flywire technology and the fusion of lightweight composite materials, the Nike Hyperdunk proved that a shoe built for the rigors of competition, could shed considerable weight without compromising strength. Its modern, minimalist aesthetic turned heads and unique color combinations made a statement as well.

In its third evolution, the Nike Zoom Hyperdunk 2011 features next generation Flywire technology seamlessly blended in a mesh composite upper to create a design lighter in weight and more breathable than its predecessor. A new 3-D shaped, glass reinforced composite midfoot shank gives players torsional rigidity and responsiveness, while Nike Zoom units in both the heel and forefoot provide the low-profile, responsive cushioning that players covet. Weighing in at 11.5 ounces in a men’s size 9, the Nike Zoom Hyperdunk 2011 is lightweight without compromising strength and stability.

Continuing to set a new standard for performance innovation, Nike Basketball continues to redefine apparel in addition to footwear.

Nike Hyper Elite woven short

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features Dri-Fit stretch-woven fabric made of 100 percent recycled polyester to pull sweat away to help keep players dry and comfortable. Laser-cut perforations and a Nike Elite graphic on the side panel provide ventilation, while reducing the overall weight of the short. In the past, thick and heavy materials were used in basketball shorts because they were associated with quality and durability. Times have changed and Nike Basketball took insights from running and soccer performance apparel to create this ultralightweight and durable short with evolved fabrication methods. The Nike Hyper Elite woven short is the same authentic fit as Nike’s top college and federation team shorts.

The fall 2011 Nike Basketball Collection is available at key retailers worldwide. Availability extends to global retailers and online at NikeStore. com.

SEE | Admiral BaySuites Revives Old Manila Bay Glory

With its European-themed design accentuated by baroque architecture and lavish interiors, the Admiral BaySuites is set to bring back luxury, elegance and sophistication along Roxas Boulevard that was once the prime spot for the society’s most distinguished personalities.

Situated at the famous bay front of Manila, the Admiral BaySuites will rise out of the worldfamous Admiral Hotel, the city’s elite hotel from 1930s to the 1990s that has accommodated prominent personalities not only from the country but from different parts of the world such as former United States president Herbert Hoover, general Douglas MacArthur, former ambassador of the United States to the Philippines Paul McNutt and Mexican boxing champ Cesar Soto.

Acquired by Anchor Land Holdings from the Lopez-Araneta family, the Admiral Hotel’s legacy will be preserved and redeveloped into a European-inspired boutique hotel that will welcome guests with white-gloved service and will showcase intercontinental restaurants.

It is no doubt that the elegance of the classic Admiral Hotel in the early years that gave a distinction to Manila being one of the most soughtafter destinations in the archipelago will once again captivate the minds and senses of well-heeled men and women because of the top of the class design and impeccable service that awaits future owners of the Admiral BaySuites. The 53-storey-high residential building, which is located behind the iconic hotel at Roxas Boulevard in Malate, will offer spacious units up to 858 square meters.

The condominium will be composed of 41 residential floors, eight parking levels and two amenity floors. It will have two portions: the east and the west wing. The east wing will feature one-bedroom and two-bedroom units that will range from 30 square meters up to 100 square meters while the west wing will have three-bedroom, four-bedroom and five-bedroom units. Both towers will have balconies that will give its future owners a scenic view of the Manila Bay and the Makati skyline. This six-star hotel also offers exceptional features such as the hotel-room type of service from its staffs, wine cellars, cigar rooms, private and sky lounges and helipad.

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EXPERIENCE Travel and Living Volume 7 Number 3, 2011

prominent spot in Manila boasts a wide array of amenities including a 25-meter lap pool with children’s pool, game room, Wii room, poker room, mahjong room, KTV room, music room and the WiFi lounge. Future unit owners can keep their bodies in tip-top shape as Admiral BaySuites also has their dance studio, fitness center and table tennis room.

Roxas Boulevard’s elegance, luxury and sophistication have gradually waned over the years but this remarkable bay front of Manila will soon have its old glory back with the rise of the plush Admiral BaySuites.

Admiral BaySuites is located at 2138 Roxas Boulevard, Manila. For inquiries, call 888-9999 or visit www.anchorlandholdings.com.

WATCH | Stomp Live in Manila

Stomp, the most invigorating and innovative musical spectacle that has gotten the world clamoring for more, is finally coming to Manila. The highly-anticipated show that features a unique combination of percussion, movement and visual comedy will be staged at the Tanghalang Nicanor Abelardo of the Cultural Center of the Philippines from October 18 to 23, 2011, for a limited season only.

Stomp is a high-energy, percussive symphony, combined with dance.

Although Stomp is played entirely on non-traditional instruments such as garbage can lids, buckets, brooms and sticks, it transforms the stage into a pulsating and utterly irresistible theatrical event. It has little or no melody in the traditional sense, so it doesn’t matter if your taste in music is jazz, classical, dance or pop. Stomp has no words yet, everyone can understand it.

Founded in Brighton, United Kingdom, in the summer of 1991, Stomp was the result of ten-year collaboration between its creators, Luke Cresswell and Steve McNicholas. Stomp was previewed at London’s Bloomsbury Theatre and premiered at the Assembly Rooms in Edinburgh, where it became The Guardian’s Critic’s Choice and won The Daily Express Best of the Fringe award.

Between 1991 and 1994 the original cast of Stomp played to capacity audiences around the world, from Hong Kong to Barcelona, from Dublin to Sydney. The touring culminated in a sellout season at London’s Sadler’s Wells Theatre in January 1994, where Stomp received an Olivier nomination for Best Entertainment and won Best Choreography in a West End show.

Stomp began its run at the Orpheum Theatre in New York in February 1994 and quickly went on to win both an Obie and a Drama Desk award as Most Unique Theatre Experience. By the summer of 1994, the first American cast was in place at the Orpheum, freeing the original cast for sellout tours of North America and Japan.

Stomp, now on its ninth year in London’s West End and its 17th year on Broadway, sets its unique feet stamping, fingers drumming and adrenaline rushing feel good sensations to audiences totaling more than fifteen million in 48 countries across five continents, producing pure stage magic.

Tickets are priced at Php750, Php1000, Php1500, Php2000, Php2500, Php3000, Php3500, Php4000, Php4500, Php5000, Php5500 and Php7000.

All tickets are available at all TicketWorld outlets, selected National Bookstore branches, Robinsons Department Stores, Ayala Center and TicketWorld office at 6793 Ayala Avenue, Suite 701 V. Madrigal Building, Makati City. To book, call (+63 2) 891-9999, or visit TicketWorld’s Web site www. ticketworld.com.ph.

EXPLORE

The Balanacan Port in Mogpog is one of the gateways to Marinduque. Here, a towering statue of Our Lady of Good Voyage welcomes visitors, who mostly arrive in ferries from Lucena City in Quezon (below). Sunset paints a stunning background of mauve, vermillion and magenta over the strait between Elephant Island, where Bellarocca Island Resort and Spa nestles, and the main island of Marinduque, where Mount Malindig stands, the highest in the province (right).

M

oriones—this all too popular, religious folk festival that reenacts the story of Saint Longinus, unfolding simultaneously in the hot streets of the towns of Gasan, Boac, Mogpog, Buenavista and Santa Cruz during the tourist-heavy Lent celebration—was what immediately flashed on my mind when I received an invitation in May to come to Marinduque. But they hold the Moriones in either March or April, right? Between a quick photo-taking among the Moriones statues in the rotunda just outside the gate of the Balanacan port upon arrival and a duathlon event, Marinduque has charmingly revealed itself to be more than the iconic Moriones masks.

The heart-shaped Marinduque Island is located at the southeastern portion of Luzon between the Mindoro Island on the west and Bondoc Peninsula on the east and lies approximately 150 aerial kilometers southeast of Manila. Marinduque has six municipalities, namely, Mogpog, Torrijos, Gasan, Santa Cruz, Buenavista and Boac, its largest municipality, current capital and economic hub. The province celebrates its foundation day every February 21, based on Act No. 2880, signed by then American governor-general Francis Bur20

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ton Harrison reestablishing Marinduque as an independent province on February 21, 1920. But September 13 is an equally significant date for the people of Marinduque as it is also the date of the Battle of Pulang Lupa, in Torrijos, or the province’s battle against, ironically, the American forces in 1900.

From the Talao-Talao pier in Lucena, aboard a ro-ro ferry, our group arrives just in time to see the early morning sun slowly rising between Natangco Island and San Andres Island. One notices at once the silky calm bondi blue water, and jellyfishes that show up just beneath its surface, which from the boat resembles lost heads of white-haired old women who are too weak to come up for air. One imagines their gnarled bodies possibly left hidden in some deeper spot, but one is quickly ushered out of the deck by the rush of passengers eager to get off the boat.

Marking one’s arrival in Balanacan port is the towering statue of Our Lady of Good Voyage situated just at the end of the bay. The statue is the iconic Virgin Mary in the usual blue and white garment,

Marinduque Journey to the Center of the Philippines

By Reinerio A. Alba Photos by Roel Hoang Manipon

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A simple stone marker at the top of Mataas na Bundok indicates the spot of the geodetic center of the Philippines in a survey done in 1906 (left). A mining pit in the barangay of Capayang in Mogpog becomes a lake (below).

and calls to mind other such large Catholic icons in the country such as the fifty-foot Christ in Kamay ni Hesus in Lucban, Quezon; the statue of Our Lady Queen of Peace at the EDSA Shrine in Quezon City; and the 26-foot all-white statue of Our Lady of the Most Holy Rosary atop Mount Caglago in Caramoan, Camarines Sur. But the Balanacan Lady alone stands by a body of water, and one would learn from an online site later, is a project of former governor Carmencita Reyes to commemorate how the Lady, originally as Birhen ng Biglang Awa (Our Lady of Prompt Succor) saved the people of Marinduque from Moro invaders in the mid-17th century. The Lady has since become Marinduque’s patron saint and its smaller image is housed in Boac. On this bright morning, the humongous statue of the Balanacan Lady stands ever welcoming, seemingly oblivious to the state of its steel halo of stars that now sits askew over its head, owing perhaps to a recent typhoon that passed by the area.

Along the highway, one is greeted by boundary markers with Morion heads, uncannily much like the heads of the anthropomorphic potteries found in Maitum, Saranggani, in Mindanao. After an hour of travel and several twists in the road, one reaches the town proper of Mogpog and one finds accommodation in the only bedand-breakfast place in the area (though the owner must have confused ideas on what it really is), Marinduque Hilltop Lodge Hotel and Bazaar, a large two-level house converted for such a purpose and painted in white and dodger blue. One readily ascends its welcoming concrete stairs that lead directly to the large veranda where a picnic table sits. Entering the main door, one enters a short hallway to find several dormitory-type rooms, in a space that obviously has once been a spacious living room. One finds thin foams for beds and the bathroom constrictive for bathing, but as one unpacks things, the rural quietness of the place takes over the anxiousness, and the happiness at having arrived sinks in.

Having freshened up, our group travels to nearby Santa Cruz, a town composed of 55 barangays. Here, one finds, a gold-painted Jose Rizal statue, situated on a knee-level pedestal. Here, too, we meet up with Erick Abad, chief of staff of our host, congressman Lord Allan Velasco, for an early lunch at CafĂŠ McCoy. Abad informs us that we are to see for ourselves the duathlon event called Marinduque Xtreme Series 3, being organized by the congressman and Mogpog 22

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The Boac Cathedral (top) was started in 1580 by the Augustinians and was completed in 1792. Dindo Asuncion describes the church in the book Marinduque: The Heart of the Philippines (2004): “Its baroque architecture echoes the Renaissance leanings of Europe in the late 1500s and its parallelism to Il Gesu—the Jesuit mother church in downtown Rome—is unmistakable. Nevertheless, the use of local craftsmanship and native raw materials, its thicker walls reinforced with a persistent dose of contrafuertes (buttresses), the emphasis on girth rather than height resulted in an interesting variation—the earthquake baroque.”

The Santa Cruz Church was started in 1609 (above).

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Maniwaya Island in Santa Cruz is being eyed for tourism with its white sand and clear waters.

mayor Sinen Livelo, Jr.. But before that, he says, we will get to experience as much of Marinduque as we can.

First on our itinerary is a visit to Maniwaya Island. Conversations later throughout the trip, and over meals, inevitably drift and dip into creative writing, Abad being a poet and once fellow in the University of the Philippines Writers’ Workshop. But now, over a lunch of bulgogi, he allows the town’s resident historian do the talking: Eli Obligacion, a man who admits to not having finished his college degree but loves history anyway. He starts with Marinduque and its history, on why the province is named more for the mountain Malindig rather than the popular story that involved a duke and her daughter Marina, on the Tagalog language having originated in Boac before transferring to Quezon and so on. He tells us also about Maniwaya Island but admits to not having gone there personally and so is as excited as the rest of us in visiting it.

The trip to Maniwaya Island starts in Buyabod Port by means of a motor boat big enough to accommodate our group of eleven. We are joined by four young male members from the Marinduque State College (MSC) Mountaineers, one of them even carrying a bladder or a liquid bag on his back, and two representatives from Puwersa ng Bayaning Atleta (PBA). Halfway into our group’s one-hour travel to the island, two other islands come to view: the island of Polo to our right and the island of Mongpong to the left. One cannot miss the long stretch of white sand far ahead of Palo Maria Beach, and when we get off the boat in Maniwaya Island we are at once in agreement that we have another beach to refer to our friends back 24

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home. The sand is not as powdery soft as Boracay’s but is definitely white, and the water that changes color from tiffany blue to azure is as smooth and inviting to swim in. Abad says that this is one of the areas, which Velasco is developing for tourists and that for now there are just makeshift and informal cottages dotting the beach area.

Residents from Quezon are said to have made the initial visit to the island coming in from Mangayao in General Luna, taking the onehour boat trip. While taking a rest in one of the available cottages in the area, a resident sells us yellow-orange pancakes for Php7 apiece, which we heartily eat away. After an hour of basking in Maniwaya Island, our group heads back to the port, but not before making a quick dip over at the waist-deep water in the sandbar area called Palad (perhaps due to its shape) midway going back to Buyabod Pier in Santa Cruz. Our group then travels next to San Isidro in Santa Cruz for a late-afternoon spelunking in the San Isidro Cave.

Arriving in San Isidro in a setting sun, questions zoom in on the time that the group will manage to exit from the said cave. At the briefing center, everyone’s anxiousness is quelled when Erick suggests that the group will only tackle the point up to the waterfalls area, which is only one fourth of the 1,200-meter long trail that has so far been explored by the local government and the Department of Environment and Natural Resources team. The San Isidro Cave has just been opened to the public in 2009 and has since attracted 500 tourists, says the guide. Getting into our protective red hard hats with built-in flashlights, our group is given an initial briefing by the head of the guides who turns out to be a woman. She takes out a

A wooden jetty port in Gasan (left) takes one to Bellarocca Island Resort and Spa, where there are luxurious rooms and suites, a restaurant and bar, and pools to enjoy (right).

large piece of Manila paper on which the trail inside the San Isidro cave is drawn and begins showing to us where exactly our group will be. And, perhaps for energy boost, sticky rice desserts such as sinukmani, and suman, along with soft banana fritters called maruya are offered to us prior to proceeding to the entrance of the cave. On one side of the welcome/dining makeshift cottage, one finds prominently displayed an illustration board filled with cut-out letters forming quotes, along with photos on colored papers made by a group of young clergy who had their so-called Group Intensification Activity (GIA) in the said cave in October 2010. That the said priests have all managed to survive and create such a sophomoric remembrance afterwards has wondrously checked in place a level of nervousness that has earlier threatened to rear its head. Having eaten one maruya, one proceeds with the ten-minute walk to the entrance of the cave. At the mouth of the cave, the group finds itself looking into a slippery trail that vanishes down into the darkness of the cave. The woman guide goes in first, motioning the lone woman in our group to follow suit. This seems to have provided just the right amount of challenge for the men to gingerly tackle the trail next. After a few flexibility stunts going in very tight spaces, and a few slips here and there for most of us, and admiration of stalagmite formation in between, we finally reach the falls inside the cave. Three, at least, excitedly go under the cold rush of water. After a few minutes of rest, we head back to the cottage where we partake of a dinner feast of minced

pork lungs and heart called bopis, and hot chicken stew called tinola, among others. Later, a few minutes from San Isidro, our group makes a brief stopover at a barangay fiesta where a dance, or the socalled sayawang barangay is in progress. Erick is to deliver a short speech on behalf of Velasco. The public dance, to one’s amazement, plays out in the same vein as one’s memory of such scenes from local action films: the young girls of the barangay are dolled up and made to sit in a row of special seats in the open-air multipurpose court.

The young guys pay the entrance ticket (Php20 for that night) for the privilege of dancing with as many girls for the night each time a song is played. There is but the music of the Korean group 2NE1 and American Katy Perry blaring from the speakers to assure one that one has not dreamt back in time. One downs a second glass of rum that currently makes the round of a long table where the barangay captain and his councilors are seated. For distraction, one pulls out a stick of barbecue from a piece of banana trunk covered with typewriting paper. The host, who could be the father or uncle of any of the young dressed up males milling just outside the court, has tirelessly taken to the microphone, short of pleading, insisting that the ticket is really comparatively cheap. To get things going, Erick whispers to the host to announce that congressman will be sponsoring the tickets of the first twenty males who will enter. At that, the young men finally trickle in but are huddled just as quickly in the far side opposite the girls. The very first song is a slow dance, and

Bellarocca Island Resort and Spa is in Elephant Island, so named because of its shape.

the young men jump from their seats to approach the girls who, in turn, are visibly relieved to have been asked to dance. The girls who are left in their seats quickly fidget with either their hands or mobile phones, perhaps feigning a fast SMS reply to anyone, or, in truth, frantically going through their phonebooks for any male friend, or even a brother to come to the place, reminding them of an owed favor or two, just to ensure that they will not be the benchwarmers of the night. Before our group could witness the full drama of this, we are led back to our vehicle, and we could only watch in silence as our driver tackles the many curves in the road back to Mogpog.

The next day, after an early breakfast of hotdog and egg, our group proceeds to the Mogpog gymnasium in Doña Aurora Street for the Marinduque Xtreme Series 3. Now on its third year, the contest

tied around her head by a thin abaca rope, a black leather handbag in her left arm and several panicles of dried tiger grass in the same hand. She starts complimenting one participant about his bicycle, but instantly turns her coldest stare to the crowd when someone hollers that she takes a photo with the guy. She walks over to another side, mumbling skyward then making the sign of the cross thrice.

One begins to notice the dried coconut leaf woven around her left ankle. She teasingly hits one participant with the tiger grass before disappearing. A few minutes later, all the participants assemble by the road around the congressman, with a sizeable tarpaulin banner in front of them and the words start printed in big white letters against a red backdrop. On the right side of the banner is a more formal photo of the congressman with visibly rounder cheeks while at the bottom far left is written his rhymeperfect battle cry: “Kay Velasco, aasenso” (With Velasco, we will progress). As the runners bolt from the starting line, we turn to exploring the area.

In front of Mogpog’s municipal hall is a Rizal statue in suit, his left hand holding a book, standing on a readily accessible waist-high pedestal. Directly in front of the statue is a small old canon, while two concrete life-size carabaos graze at Rizal’s sides.

Mogpog, a town with 37 barangays, has reached national news in 1993 when on December 6, the Maguila-guila Dam, built by Marcopper Mining Company and Placer Dome Inc. (PDI) of Canada, collapsed, spilling million metric tons of mine wastes and tailings into the Mogpog River, and a flashflood of mine waste afterwards has been recorded in the news to have destroyed 26 villages or barangays. The mining operations of Marcopper-PDI also caused the previous destruction of Calancan Bay in 1975, and again, the Boac River in 1996, this last one becoming known as the Marcopper Mining Disaster, considered as the worst environmental disasAthletes around the country gathered and competed in the Marinduque Xtreme Series 3, a duathlon event held in Mogpog on May 14, 2011. ter the country has experienced in relation to the mining industry. Today, as one walks around the area, involves a duathlon race of 7.5-kilometer trail run and twenty-kilone half expects to see a people defeated by such a tragedy but one ometer of mountain biking, along with the cross-country mountain is only met by the same unintrusive but curious attitude of island biking through a 30-kilometer race course for male, and 25-kilompeople. eter race course for the female participants. Individual winners get Walking along in the barangay of Mataas na Bayan, one catches to win the maximum cash prize of Php20,000 and with Php5,000 as the tail end of a procession showcasing the many statues of Saint the minimum cash prize. Our group finally comes face-to-face with Isidore, the town’s patron saint, whose feast they are celebrating. our host, Velasco, with his dark shades on, mingling with the particiMany of the parishioners fielding their own St. Isidore images are pants and looking more like a guest balladeer in his white walking easily distinguishable by the color of the shirts of the barangay they shorts and brown three-fourth-sleeved shirt. Seated casually among represent, with some even opting to have their names printed at the the benches is his guest, ABS-CBN TV reporter Gretchen Malalad, back of their shirts—Jezzie Jay, Erickson, Reynel—among the youth. whose father is from Duyay, Boac. In the midst of the crowd that has Curiously, too, all stores in the area are named after the owners of milled about and the participants taking their turns at the registrathe businesses: Gregorio Tan’s Merchandize Store, El Noel Store, Teltion table, a woman in her fifties shows up in a chartreuse swirl-print ang’s Photo Shop, Larraquel Dress Shop and so on. dress worn over a kelly green T-shirt, a shoulder length white veil 26

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The young and handsome congressman of Marinduque, Lord Allan Velasco, here in his airy home in Poctoy, Torrijos, plans to make the province a tourist destination.

Our group catches Marinduque Xtreme 3 participants in the barangay of Capayang, who tackle with their bikes the dangerous curves in the area’s rough terrain, executing smooth rolls over steep technical drops and safely maneuvering their way over humps that have been constructed for the purpose. First-time visitors to the area will find a seemingly natural lake that turns out to have been formed from rainwater that filled up an abandoned mining pit. Gladly, one learns that this mining issue still remains one of Velasco’s key concerns.

“I’m looking at cases filed against Marcopper although the Supreme Court has already issued a decision, but there are still a lot of cases that have not been given attention, especially the case of the provincial government before in Las Vegas. Here, there is still a little awareness for mining industry and the effects when not handled properly. Mining companies, for one, are required to rehabilitate the place after they are done with mining.”

Conducting an instant interview inside his vehicle, one grows curious about the plans for Marinduque of this young congressman.

Velasco is aware that his winning the congressional seat in 2010 is in itself a feat, having won over the previous congressman whose family has been in power for years. But previously, he has also served as Marinduque’s provincial administrator from 2008 to 2009.

“I was also the tourism chairman at that time, and what I did was I went around the whole island looking at possible potential tourist spots and I was able to pinpoint places in the province that would really attract investors and tourists.”

“Marinduque is out of the radar of most of the travelers, but I tell you that now is the right time to go to Marinduque. I have even thought of a tagline for the Marinduque marketing collaterals: ‘Journey to the Center of the Philippines’.”

Velasco is referring to Marinduque being the true center of the Philippines in geodetic terms, with the stone marker located atop the

mountain, which locals call Mataas na Bundok, at the boundaries of barangays Argao, Hinanggayon and Silangan in Mogpog. This has been a result of trigonometric surveys from north to south and east and west of the Philippine archipelago done in 1906 by the USCGS (now the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration or NOAA) to establish a single datum, now referred to as the Luzon Datum of 1911, to serve as the primary geodetic reference of all surveys. Atop, one finds the geodetic marker drilled in a cubic meter of diorite rock, along with another reference rock marker about ten feet away. The marker is used as point number one for all map makers in the country.

He admits that Marinduque has benefited from the exposure that the five-star Bellarocca Island Resort and Spa, located in Elephant Island, has generated.

“And I’m trying to capitalize on that to help the whole province in the process. Right now, I am looking at ecotourism for Marinduque. We are, after all, the Butterfly Capital of the Philippines. I also see the potential of activities such as trail biking. This is the reason why I started the Marinduque Xtreme. You should see the beautiful trails here.”

Wrapping up the short informal interview, Velasco invites us for lunch in their house in the barangay of Poctoy in Torrijos. His mother, he volunteers, is from both Mogpog and Torrijos.

On the way, he takes us to the barangay of Janagdong, still in Mogpog, where we meet the Morion mask maker Benedicto “Dick” Malapote. He has a small working area by the small road, almost makeshift, and is busy working on a santol wood. He says that the masks’ looks are his own creations learned from years of working on such masks since he left high school. Now 48, Malapote says that it takes him from four to six hours to finish the face and a day to finish the entire mask, along with its helmet, which sells for Php3,500 to Php5,000 each. One tries on an unfinished mask, which still smells Volume 7 Number 3, 2011 EXPERIENCE Travel and Living |

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of the santol fruit and estimates it to be at least half a kilo heavy—a true penitence-worthy item for anyone participating in the Moriones drama.

In a bend in the barangay of Cagpo in Torrijos, as we near Velasco’s house, one needs to make sure that one has not dozed off or missed seeing to one’s left a spectacular view of the Sibuyan Sea. Soon enough, the driver honks at the closed red gate, and the congressman shifts from his seat forward to look at the sign hanging by their gate that announces in red and bold print the statement “No Tresspassing. Private Property,” himself voicing out, perhaps more to assure us of his accessibility, that it is too intimidating a sign. On getting off the vehicle, one notices at once the basketball court on one side. Later, we see the pool and the videoke area by the horizon where a group has started singing. The main house opens out to the Sibuyan Sea and is generally all wood with thatched roofing, inspired, he says, by the rest houses he has seen in Bali and surrounded by other such houses, which, Velasco says, are for his parents and siblings. Inside one finds various coffee-table books on interior design, rest houses, including a book that cites Bellaroca as one of the best eco-luxury hotels in the world. Lunch is a feast of pork in tamarind soup and balakwit or edible little bear conches. With the latter, one has to separate the little sac-like thing that holds sand to avoid eating it.

Afterwards, Velasco introduces our group to the all-terrain vehicle (ATV) tour to nearby Battle of Pulang Lupa Historical Park, located in the mountainside boundary of barangays Bolo and Poctoy.

The ATV trail, from the large green marker by the highway up to the top, takes all of twenty minutes and proves to be daunting for firsttimers because of its curvy path. But atop, it is always a worthwhile ride as one views a 180-degree view of the Bondoc Peninsula, Polo, Mongpong Island and Salomague Island to the left, and a good part of the town of Torrijos to the right along the Sibuyan Sea coast. From the top, one travels down a bit and enters a gate where a landmark shrine can be viewed. The shrine, as the markers states, remembers the “battle won by the Marinduqueños over the well-armed American forces on September 13, 1900.” The Americans, led by Captain Devereux Shield, surrendered to the Marinduque revolutionary forces led by Colonel Maximo Abad. One finds an almost teen-feet

A group of statues outside Balanacan Port depicts the execution of the Roman centurion Longinus, whose story is annually re-enacted in the Moriones Festival of Marinduque during Holy Week.

A marker in Torrijos indicates the site of the Battle of Pulang Lupa, in which Marinduque fighters won over the well-armed American forces in September 13, 1900.

Benedicto Malapote of Janagdong, Mogpog, has been carving Morion masks since he was a teenager.

Made out of santol wood, one mask can fetch up to Php5,000.

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tall obelisk on a five-foot high red base. Serving as a backdrop to this obelisk is a mural, which according to the blog Marinduquegov. blogspot.com, maintained by Eli Obligacion, is a creation by Apolinario Bulaong of Bulacan, the same artist who did the Gregorio del Pilar sculpture at the Battle of Tirad Pass historical site. The mural is composed of sixty concrete blocks depicting the battle in five frames and framed by two men standing at each end.

Back in the public gymnasium in Mogpog for the awarding of the winners of the duathlon challenge, we meet another town character, this time, a white-haired gay man in an otherwise sartorial ensemble: a belted woman’s blazer in faded peach color paired with a midnight blue linen trouser. One can even turn a blind eye on the multi-colored scoongees and slinkees he wears on both wrists, or the plastic straws that ribbons his fingers, or the empty juice foils that have become both a pinwheel accent on his black laptop bag and shoelaces for his black loafers. But unlike the lime green-dressed woman of the previous day, he merely talks to a phantom friend and offers a ready smile to it, stopping in a corner as if waiting before vanishing away into the crowd.

Onstage, Velasco announces the winners of the duathlon challenge. Claiming the top spots are Pangasinan-born Javier Roveno, Davaoeño Mirasol Abad, both regulars of such challenges, and members of the national team. Abad though admits to a difficulty she experienced while tackling a 45-degree angle along the trail.

Abad says she will use the money to buy parts for her bicycle. They both express amazement at the local participants who use the regular metal bicycles to overcome the treacherous trail, with obvious

determination as the thing powering their pedals. By the time the prizes are awarded, most of these brave souls have already taken a shower and are packing up their things as casually as they would have prepared for a regular ride home, then vanishing into roads whose ends one can only squint at for so long before one makes a turn, too, for the opposite road.

The next day, we head out to the geodetic center. It takes all of an hour’s hike to reach the peak of Mataas na Bundok. By the time one reaches the landmark buri palm at the top, one has already survived six near missteps and is thankful for one’s four-month respite from smoking. And there, at the top, one’s precious price is a sighting of the diorite rock marked with a hole in the center of an etched triangle. There, too, under a tree, a family from Boac with their mongrel dog has just finished eating whatever food they have bothered to take all the way up. And yes, the Sibuyan Sea from up here is one treasure for one’s memory.

The next stop for us is a trip to Elephant Island, now, popularly known in the tourist circuit as the site for Bellarocca Island Resort and Spa, that Santorini-inspired resort in Marinduque.

On the way there, our group stops by the cathedral in Boac, located in the barangay of Mataas na Bayan. Built in 1792, as indicated in the National Historical Institute marker, the cathedral houses two images of the Virgin Mary: Our Lady of Immaculate Conception, which is the patron saint of Boac, and Birhen ng Biglang-Awa, the patron saint of the province. An interesting anecdote, too, written in the marker, is that this is also where the Katipunan flag brought

by Canuto Vargas in 1899 is said to have been baptized. At the left

The San Isidro Cave in Santa Cruz is a challenging cave to explore. Having an underground stream, the cave is being eyed as a destination for adventure tourists.

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Small conches, locally called balakwit, are gathered along the shores of Marinduque and are delicious treats.

frontage of the cathedral is likewise displayed a metal billboard with further description of the church as quoted from the coffee-table book Marinduque, the Heart of the Philippines by Dindo Asuncion. It says that the baroque architecture of the cathedral parallels the Il Gesu, or its Jesuit mother church in “downtown Rome.” It is formerly called Montserrat de Marinduque by the Augustinians who have been its initial builders, but the Jesuits have since called it Church of the Immaculate Concepcion, dating from 1621. At the other end, one finds the old cathedral bell, which is dated 1622, now displayed and housed in an enclosed gazebo.

Before long, we are already aboard an inflatable boat for half-anhour heading for Bellarocca. We are met by a group of women staff of the resort in their white uniform singing a putong song to the accompaniment of maracas, two polished sticks sounded together and their hands. Putong, as explained by Eli Obligacion, is a song-anddance ritual that originally lasts from six hours to a whole day and involves the invocation of saints, including the persona called Maria, followed by drinking of tuba, eating and merriment, using candles, floral crowns, incense and coins as props. Obligacion says there are numerous versions of the putong, and the one we have heard is obviously a much shortened version that has been repeatedly sung until the guests have safely come up on the concrete bridges. We are initially ushered in a waiting area as our rooms are being fixed and offered juices while we fill out our guest cards. After a few minutes, we are driven by a golf cart to a terraza, a two bedroom unit with a verandah that looks out to Mount Malindig.

For dinner, we meet up with Cris Castro, Bellaroca’s executive chef, whose claim, among a list of outstanding credentials, is being a one-time sous chef to Paul Allen, the Microsoft co-founder. He says he makes no qualms about whipping up a dish tailored to his guests’ appetite, and we are to experience that for ourselves. For starters, there is seafood Marinduque salad, then prawn pernod for our main meal, then the heavenly panna cotta for desert.

Seconds after our last spoon into the panna cotta, Castro joins us for a brief interview. He admits that he inherited the sharpness of his taste buds or “talas ng lasa” from his mother who cooks delicious 30 |

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food for them.

“I salivate the instance my tongue comes in contact with a bland meal or food that’s about to go stale.”

And what food does a chef like him hanker for when he is not the one cooking?

“My favorite would be the ones at the open market in Thailand. That’s where I really satiate my appetite.”

For Bellarocca, he says he does a weekly placement of orders for his ingredients from Manila and buys from the local market every two to three days. He tells us, too, that his wife knows that she comes second only to his cooking, which is really his first love.

Sleeping in our beds that evening, one remembers a story from childhood on how Marinduque acquired its name—one involving a dog that led a certain Duke’s boat with three handsome princes aboard to the beautiful maiden named Marina. Another version is that Marina is a daughter of a duke who refuses to marry her to a common man, so Marina and her lover elope. Earning the wrath of the duke, they are turned into islands. In any case, in both instances, the dog itself becomes an island and hence came to be known as Isla Perro.

Eventually, Isla Perro, perhaps noticed for its much longer snout-like protrusion from the horizon, was renamed Elephant Island. The Bellarocca Resort now sits on this island, and because of such a fact it becomes an interesting claim to say that one has slept on the back of an elephant, a very huge elephant at that. And one has not even left the country for the experience.

The next day, as one flies out of the airport in Gasan, a promise swirls in this traveler’s heart to come back to Marinduque.

Getting There ZestAir flies daily to Marinduque from Manila, landing at the Marinduque Airport in the barangay of Masiga in Gasan.

Montenegro Lines has ferries from Lucena City, Quezon, to Marinduque, berthing at Balanacan Port in Mogpog, Buyabod Port in Santa Cruz and Cawit Port in Boac.

MV Torrijos has ferries from Lucena City to Marinduque, docking at Buyabod Port and Cawit Port.

JAC Liner has buses that go from Manila to Marinduque through roll on-roll off system.

T

Camotes Enchanting

By Gesel Mangilit • Photos by Donald Tapan

he sky was a brilliant Matisse blue as I stepped out into the deck to catch a whiff of fresh sea air. I gazed at the verdant islands of the Camotes and felt the call of the island life. I wiped the sweat off my brow and envied the children jumping into the clear blue sea, their laughter mingling with the banter of the teenagers busy catching fish using improvised fishing rods at the other end of the dock. I grabbed my bags and climbed the rickety wooden ladder, grateful that the threehour lurching boat ride from the port of Danao in the main island of Cebu was over.

“Welcome to Poro,” greeted Joy Tawil, tourism officer of the town, offering us a seat in the waiting van. We passed by the newly built public market where, our guide informed us, the mayor and his band play on Thursdays and Saturdays.

“You will like our mayor. Apart from his many duties, he found time to put up his own band, whose members are the town’s municipal employees and college students,” Joy said.

From the public market, we turned to the left. It felt like time had stopped as we drove past age-old ancestral houses made of hardwood with windows made of capiz shells and balconies adorned 32 |

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with ornamental plants. I observed that some of these houses have been converted into pension houses, offering accommodation for as low as PhP500 a night. For added nostalgia, we stopped briefly in front of the oldest and only gasoline station in the island, built in the 1960s. Old and decrepit, it was still functional, serving the needs of the more than 25,000 inhabitants of Poro and its neighboring towns.

Poro’s Plans

After the requisite welcome drinks and leis, we met mayor Luciano D. Rama, Jr. who told us about the many developments in the town of Poro. Most significant is the PhP7 billion they recently acquired from the national government. The funds will be used to develop Poro’s tourist draws such as the Maktang Beach, Buho Rock Resort, Tangub Cave and the two marine sanctuaries in the barangays of Esperanza and Libertad.

He believes that striking a balance between tourism and keeping the islands pristine will be the biggest challenge for Poro and the three other municipalities in the Camotes, San Francisco, Tudela and Pilar.

“We want to put Camotes on the tourism map but we are not

The Flying Fish Res

ort is one of the bes

t resorts in the tow

n of Poro

The coral reef within the property is home to a giant sea turtle or pawikan Considered a heritage site, the bakawan or mangrove forest of Poro has 29 of the 33 mangrove species endemic to the Philippines

in a hurry to do so. We take it one step at a time. We do not want to push for tourism at the expense of damaging our natural assets,� the mayor said.

His plans for Poro include not only the rehabilitation and protection of existing tourist destinations but also the discovery of new ones. There are still many natural attractions that have yet to be explored such as two other caves in Poro, apart from the one in Tangub. A recent discovery is a place in Poro where a tribe of thirty monkeys was found, the same spot where he intends to build a monkey sanctuary. The four-kilometer causeway connecting Poro and San Francisco is planted on both sides with mangrove trees, eyed as ecotourism spots where guests can walk through the mangrove forest via bamboo bridges and take picnics on a watchtower by the sea.

While much of the attention of the Cebu provincial government in the past is in San Francisco, known for its long stretches of whitesand beaches, the mayor says the Central Visayas regional tourism development plan is to market Camotes Islands as a whole. “Each town in the Camotes has its own history and attractions.

Tudela has the Bukilat Cave. Pilar has old houses and isolated beaches. While San Francisco is the biggest in terms of land area and has Volume 7 Number 3, 2011 EXPERIENCE Travel and Living |

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The Buho Rock is where the more adventurous would take three to four running steps and plunge into the deep, blue sea

long been known here and abroad for its white-sand beaches, Poro, being the gateway to the Camotes, is rich in history as you will later find out,” he said.

Exploring the Camotes

The Camotes is a small group of islands located in Eastern Visayas, between the islands of Cebu and Leyte. It is mainly composed of four islands divided into four municipalities. The island of Poro is divided into the towns of Poro and Tudela. San Francisco occupies the islands of Pacijan and Tulang, where one of its barangay, Esperanza, is located. Pilar is in the island of Ponson.

Poro and Pacijan are connected by a paved road called a causeway. Ponson, four kilometers northeast of Poro, is separated by the Camotes Sea. Tulang is located at the northern tip of Pacijan.

Twenty years ago, only those from Cebu and the neighboring islands of Leyte and Bohol are privy to the charms of Camotes. That has changed, thanks to budget airlines and a growing interest in unexplored and less-trodden places. A popular weekend jaunt for Cebuanos during the summer break, Camotes offers everything from hiking, spelunking, diving to beachcombing.

Once dubbed as the Lost Horizon in the South, Camotes’ charm lies in its attractive natural wonders, unspoiled and waiting to be explored. Among the four municipalities of Camotes, Poro (its name derived from the Waray word puro or “island”) is the most familiar among backpackers and nature-trippers with its picturesque high cliffs and stunning rock formations.

Buho Rock, about two kilometers from Poro town proper, is so called because when viewed from afar, specially from the port of Puertobello, you can see a hole (boho or buho means “hole” in the Porohanon dialect) peeking out from under the rock that looks like a ship moored near one of the cliffs in Poro. Legend has it that the crew of a Spanish battleship fired at the rock in the mist believing it was aiming at an enemy vessel. They missed the rock and hit instead the cliff near it, creating a gaping hole, thus the names.

Once there, we went 56 steps down a steep stairway to get to a rocky islet that has been turned into an aquatic playground with a diving platform. Some of the more adventurous would take three

The view of the Buho Rock from Poro’s all-weather port

The historic Maktang Beach where a whole pre-Hispanic village was excavated in the 1970s

to four running steps and plunge into the clear, blue sea to snorkel among the rocks while others would just sit on the mushroom cottage, waiting for the beautiful sunset. We went back up to take more pictures on the highest peak, the same spot where, according to our guide, the Philippine Habagat team went cliff diving a few years back. Unfortunately, we weren’t able to get to Mount Three Peaks, which can be reached by hiking, where one can get a clear view of the whole Camotes.

The locals say the Japanese invasion started when the Japanese scaled the cliffs from Buho Rock to reach Poro, where they bombed the municipal hall and the Santo Niño de Poro Parish Church, one of the two oldest churches in Cebu, built in 1849.

Santo Niño de Poro Church, we later found out, once had a “Jacob’s ladder,” similar to that of Samboan Church (also in Cebu). In the olden times, the Spaniards constructed stairs from the sea up to the cliffs of Poro where they built the church. This “stairway to heaven,” as the locals call it, is no longer visible now as the villagers have destroyed the stairs and built houses over them. But still, you find yourself steeped in history as you go inside the church, erected in the 1600s by the Jesuit priests and later bombed during the Japanese invasion destroying the belfry, which was later rebuilt in 1960s.

According to our guide, it is also the site where ten priests were murdered and buried on suspicion of harboring enemies of the Japanese.

The Founding of Poro and the Tagbo Festival

How Poro came to be the seat of government (founded in 1701) is still another story worth delving into. During the Spanish period, Poro was already a thriving community overseen by the Jesuit mission post in Palompon, Leyte. Poro at that time had two settlements: Maktang (now a sitio of the barangay of Esperanza of Poro) of coastal folks and fisherman and Tag-Anito (now the municipality of Tudela) of upland farmers and herdsmen. Pirate attacks and slave traders were constant threats to the growing populace of Poro, hence the alcalde mayor of Cebu thought that it is better for the natives to unify and defend themselves from the attacks. On the advice of Panganuron (which in Waray means “high up in the clouds”), an elder who lived on the banks of a river (now in the barangay of Libertad), the residents of the two settlements journeyed on foot towards each other at the break of day. They met on the site of what is now Poblacion Poro, approximately eight kilometers from both settlements.

On that day, inhabitants of the two settlements came to live together for the first time. They built a chapel on this site, which later on was improved and became the parish church they dedicated to Sto. Niño de Poro. In celebration of this symbolic “meeting,” the Camotes has the Tagbo Festival (from tagpo, meaning “meeting”) every third Friday of January to celebrate the founding of the town of Poro with street dancing, parade and a reenactment of the unification of the

Once dubbed as the “Lost Horizon in the South,” the Camotes’ charm lies in its picturesque cliffs, stunning rock formations and pristine waters

Derived from the Waray word puro or “island,” Poro is a local heritage site. Photo shows the Santo Nino de Poro Parish Church, one of the two oldest churches in Cebu, built in 1849

two groups of people.

“The Visayas is known for its devotion to the Santo Nino, such that people who come to the Sinulog in Cebu City, celebrated every third Sunday of January, would first come to Camotes first for the Tagbo then to Aklan for the Ati Atihan Festival and then move on to Iloilo for the Dinagyang Festival,” said Joy. Stories of how Poro was formed and the legend of the elder Panganuron only whetted my appetite for more adventure, and I was ready to brave the thirty-minute trek up the forests of Libertad to see for myself the pride of Poro. It rained that day, and the forest floor was damp and slippery but our guide, the barangay captain, assured us of a safe trek, passing through giant bamboo trees, wild trees and exotic bromeliads, even a small patch of land planted with cacao trees. At one point during the trek, the trail narrowed, and we had to look down and see how deep the ravine is each time we gingerly checked our footing on the small trail, adding to the adrenaline rush, as we Roadside dining with the Teguis Mangrove Association, grabbed what vegetation we could to steady a people’s organization tasked with the protection of our footing. The 1.4-kilometer trail had us the mangrove forests of Poro looking down at three cascades before we reached the mighty Panganuron Falls where we rewarded ourselves with a refreshing dip at the base of the falls, its pristine condition and air of mystic preserved, virtually untouched.

When it was time to go, I groaned out loud as I hauled myself up from the hydro massage I was enjoying at the first cascade. It would mean another thirty minute trek back

Mayor Luciano Rama (second from left) with the staff of Experience Travel and Living

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The Tangub Cave is for the serious spelunker. Only a few of the locals have attempted to go all the way into the cave, which ends at Buho Rock

to the main road, which the guide said is easier than the usual route by the river.

Marine Sanctuaries, Caves and the Hidden Treasures of Poro

Of the several marine sanctuaries found in the Camotes, Poro boasts of two: the Esperanza Marine Sanctuary and Libertad Marine Sanctuary.

Esperanza Marine Sanctuary, where branching corals and an assortment of marine fishes are found, is a fifteen-minute ride from the Poro town hall. To get there, we drove along the main road, past a forest of Philippine mahogany and gemelina trees, a fast growing tree that matures in three years. Before we reach the sanctuary, Cheryl our guide from the town’s tourism office, pointed out the home of Rama, partially obscured by rows of trees. I told her about a recent trip to Bohol and their man-made forest of gemelina trees, which the locals call Twilight. They are very pretty indeed, said Cheryl, but gemelina trees are not endemic to the Camotes.

“The mayor prefers we plant local hardwood trees like lumboy and acacia, which take a lot longer to mature, like ten years. Part of your itinerary will be the tree planting fun run tomorrow in Adela,” she said.

A few moments later, we heard the rush of waves. We were now in the Esperanza Marine Sanctuary. In April this year, the local Department of Agriculture Coastal Resource Management surveyed the 47- hectare marine sanctuary in preparation for its formal launching and declared it ready for tourism within the year. Currently, there are only two Bantay Dagat personnel patrolling the marine sanctuaries in Poro. Not enough, Joy admitted, but that locals have begun to 38 |

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Perched on a cliff with a view of the Camotes Sea and Ormoc, My Little Island Hotel was built as a vacation house of the Rama clan nine years ago

conquistador Ferdinand Magellan and his men time to reach the island called Ma-tan, which was ruled by the chieftain Lapu Lapu.

She went on to say that the present Mactan could not have sustained the 1,500 inhabitants Magellan and his men fought as it is a rocky island where water is scarce. Maktang Beach, on the other hand, has always been called Maktang. Lined with coconut trees and planted with mangroves, it can sustain a settlement as big as what Magellan had reportedly found.

Later that day, I was fortunate to meet Boboi Costas, a Porohanon and a graduate of Cebu history in San Carlos University, who wrote the book Recuerdos de Poro. He said that, yes, Maktang could have been the place where the battle happened. In the early 1970s, a whole pre-Hispanic village was excavated in Poro and Maktang Beach, which led to the belief that coastal settlements with vibrant trading communities had existed in the islands. A team of archeologists led by archaeologist, curator and lecturer Israel Cabanilla found Chinese porcelain, a tooth dotted with gold, jewelry and others in 2006. They also found a skull of a Cro-Magnon man, leading to the belief that the settlements might even be prehistoric. These artifacts are now kept at the Aznar Museum at the Southwestern University in Cebu City.

The Mediterranean-inspired villa has nine standard rooms at Php1,800 each

take active part in the protection of the sanctuaries is a blessing, as there are still some who still use destructive fishing methods now and then. Most, however, have come to realize the growing tourism potential of their coastal town.

“The mayor has earmarked part of the seven billion to the development of this marine sanctuary and the other one in Libertad.

The other two priority projects are the development of Buho Rock Resort and Maktang Beach. If you look to your right, you can see that lonely stretch of white-sand beach right there. That’s Maktang Beach, the only white-sand beach we have in Poro,” said Joy. Maktang Beach is a story in itself. Antonio Pigafetta’s chronicles reveal this as the place where Magellan’s flotilla of five ships dropped anchor after the historic Mass in Mazaua (Limasawa), Leyte, to wait for Kolambu, the chieftain of Mazaua. The group then proceeded to Rajah Humabon in Zubu (Cebu) where Magellan erected a wooden cross to symbolize Spain’s Christianization of the Philippines.

According to history, an order by Rajah Humabon had been issued to the nearby chiefs that each of them was to provide food for Magellan’s ships and convert to Christianity. Most of the chiefs obeyed the order except Datu Lapu-Lapu, hence the Battle of Mactan.

Our guide told us that there is some dispute on the real location of the famous battle, which could have happened not in Mactan Island but here in Maktang Beach in Esperanza. One of the favorite arguments in support of this contention is that it took the Spanish Volume 7 Number 3, 2011 EXPERIENCE Travel and Living |

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Panganuron Falls can be reached by a twenty-minute forest trek

but along the one kilometer hike you will have to crawl through tight openings. You can refresh yourself along the way at the spring located deep in the cave. Only a few of the experienced locals have attempted to go all the way into the caves, which they say, exits to Buho Rock. According to the guide, they found three snakes inhabiting the caves, one as long as four meters.

Our first day in the Camotes was drawing to a close but our guides suggested we make a quick stop at D’Island Shooting Range in the barangay of Teguis, the first and only firing range in the islands.

Owned and operated by Maria Theresa Clavos and her husband Peter Goetghebeur, a Belgian, the nine-hectare shooting range has just opened in May and seemed to be enjoying the patronage of not only shooting enthusiasts in the islands but also the karaoke-loving folks of Poro. We ordered two rounds of beer and for two hours sang to our hearts’ content.

The coconut tree-lined beachfront of Maktang is also the site of a mass grave site during the Japanese occupation, where locals dug for treasures, bones, war gears, masks, among others. Some of the artifacts found are now partially housed at the Poro municipal hall.

We came across a group of fishermen feasting on grilled hasahasa and putong camote, their staple food. As a custom, they offered us glasses of tuba (coconut wine), which we tried. I got past the sour smell of the intoxicating drink and found it sweet to the taste and quite delicious.

Next came a visit to Tangub Cave in Pagsa, reached by a steep, rugged trail from the village of Teguis. One of the better known caves in the Camotes is the Bukilat Cave in Tudela, which has interesting rock formations, a natural skylight and a clear pool which you can swim in. The Tangub Cave, however, is for the serious spelunker. We were given safety helmets with lights before we went into the dark cave. Despite the overpowering smell of guano and moist earth, we were quite excited to get a feel of the caves as we went down a few meters into the eerie stillness. The entrance to the cave is spacious 40

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Island Luxury at My Little Island Resort

It was almost dark when we reached the comforts of the hotel, but the cold of the night was dispelled by the warm welcome we felt at dinnertime when we were treated to a sumptuous meal and the company of Poro’s tourism staff: tourism officer Fritz Dalumpines, a former councilor of Esperanza, and his assistants Cheryl and Issey.

A stay at My Little Island Resort is so comfortable it almost feels like a visit to a friend’s house if that house is a Mediterranean-inspired villa, with complete amenities unrivaled in the whole Camotes. How else could it be otherwise when it is the only true and first hotel in the island?

Perched on a cliff with a view of the Camotes Sea and Ormoc on the eastern side, it was built as a vacation home by the Rama clan nine years ago until it gradually evolved into an 800-square meter estate comprising a garden, a function room, a resto-bar, a courtyard and two outdoor pools that look out into the sea and the Bantayan Island. All fifteen rooms are fully equipped with air-conditioning and refrigerators, cable televisions, bathtubs and view decks with a view of the rolling hills below. You can get a standard room for PhP1,800, or if you’re a group of eight to ten persons the penthouse suite, which occupies one whole floor for an affordable PhP6,300.

They provide transportation to and from the port, which is just ten minutes away from the hotel, and tours to the main attractions of the Camotes such as the Poro Church, Bukilat Cave, Danao Lake, Busay Falls and Santiago Bay for PhP3,000.

Tree Planting in the Rice Fields of Adela and a Visit to the Mangrove Forest

The following day, about the same time President Noynoy Aquino was making his inaugural speech at the 200-megawatt power plant of Korean Electric Power Corporation (Kepco) in the barangay of Colon, Naga City, Cebu, we rose with the sun to get to the tree-planting activity in the barangay of Adela, where residents from all of the 17 barangays of Poro were gathered for the nationwide tree-planting ceremony. Porohanons still has the traditional market,

the tabo, in Adela every Tuesdays where the villagers gather to sell their crops and wares. It was closed that day.

“Maazong buntag,” greeted Joy. She explained that Porohanons have a distinct dialect of Cebuano. It is distinguishable by the way the locals substitute the y sound for z. Hence, “Maayong buntag” (Good morning) is “Maazong buntag” in Porohanon. “Na-a diha” is “Ara dira.” We joined the warm-up exercises in preparation for the fun run along with municipal employees, school teachers, students and the local police. An hour later, a shot was fired to signal the start of the fun run, more like walk, through half-kilometer rice fields that led us to the tree-planting site, where we got down on our knees to plant lumboy and acacia seedlings. Joy told us to come back in ten years so that we can see the fruits of our labor.

Later that afternoon, the second day of our trip to the Camotes, we went to visit the mangrove plantation along a four-kilometer land bridge or causeway that connects Poro to San Francisco. This causeway was constructed by the people of Poro and San Francisco in the 16th century, a united effort by the people during the Spanish era to bridge the San Franciscohanons to the other island to trade and attend mass in Poro.

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Poro and San Francisco. You can have a picturesque drive through the 1.4-kilometer plantation on your way to San Francisco and see adults and children busy constructing bamboo bridges that run through the thick forest all the way to the sea. A heritage site, the bakawan or mangrove forest of Poro is where 29 of the 33 mangrove species endemic to the Philippines thrive.

Late last year, Rama, along with the three mayors of the Camotes, namely, Alfredo Arquillano of San Francisco, Erwin P. Yu of Tudela and Jesus A. Fernandez, Jr. of Pilar signed an agreement to develop a community-based ecotourism and livelihood initiative towards the protection of their coastal areas and mangrove forests.

The Teguis Mangrove Forest Association (TIMAFAS), a people’s organization tasked with the protection of the mangroves in Poro, does regular clean-up and mangrove tree planting. Ecotours on these boardwalks are regular activities in the town, and even the schoolchildren become knowledgeable tour guides. Plan International, a non-government unit, has consistently assisted the islands in both technical and financial aspect of marine sanctuary protection. Its latest project is the Teguis Children’s Association for Active Participation (TECAAP), in which children are given an active role in the preservation of the island’s mangrove forests.

We had lunch by the roadside on a makeshift table heavy with freshly-caught talakitok roasted in banana leaves, fresh seaweed, kilawin, boiled saba and a tasty soup made of imbao, a mangrove clam.

Imbao (Anodontia edentula) buries itself in the mud of mangrove areas or in the adjacent mudflats and is a source of livelihood for the locals.

Satiated moments later, I almost dozed off as I sat on the bamboo bench under the canopy of mangrove trees. For one brief moment, I looked back to some of my travels in far-off places and I was struck by how the townsfolk of Poro had embraced us with their gentle warmth and hospitality. This same brand of hospitality was all the more highlighted when we were invited to breakfast and dinner by the owner of Flying Fish Resort and later that night by Rama, who was playing with his band at the public market.

Flying Fish Resort in the barangay of Cagcagan is a landscaped resort offering a spectacular view of the sunset and the chance to swim with the teeming marine life at the coral reef located 50 meters from the resort’s waterfront. Owned and run by Elsa Whittaker, a Filipina married to an Australian who loved to scuba dive, the Flying Fish Resort is named after the fish that thrive in the area. A sea cave is connected to a wishing well in the property where you can hear the echo of the waves as you look down to toss a coin. It is a well-managed resort and Whittaker takes pride in the fact that the coral reef within the property is home to a giant sea turtle or pawikan.

She whipped up a dinner feast of Thai, Chinese and local dishes that night, and we dined at the waterfront just as the sun was about to set. A hundred butterflies and dragonflies flitted about the trees that surround the manicured lawn as I looked down at the waterfront’s edge to see clearly the small fishes swimming in the pristine waters.

For PhP1,800 a night you can have an air-conditioned room, including breakfast. The steal however is the second-floor luxury room that can comfortably sleep six or more for PhP5,000 a night and has three bedrooms, two bathrooms, a living room with audio visual equipment and a verandah that looks out into the sea.

We thanked our host and left for the town of San Francisco, passing by for a few beers at the Poro public market to hear the mayor’s band play.

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A Tour of San Francisco

Beautiful white-sand beaches that stretch along the coasts of San Francisco started the tourism boom in the Camotes. Among the best and most visited are located in Santiago Bay (Santiago Bay Garden Resort) and Himensulan (Mangodlong Rock Resort). It is the first among the four islands to introduce the industry of soli soli weaving, which has become the focus of one of the island’s festivals. The Soli-Soli Festival in March is a dazzling display of street dancing with choreography that imitates the movement, harvesting and weaving of soli-soli.

Our tour started with Lake Danao, where we encountered a woman from the village weaving soli-soli. Weaving and basket making are a backyard industry in San Francisco where the soli-soli, a grass commonly found along the banks of the lake, is made into bags, rugs and mats sold across the town and in Cebu City. Residents also weave bamboo into fish traps (bobo), baskets (bakat) and amakan, a sturdy panel of woven bamboo slats used for walls and ceilings, which are sold in a Sunday market.

We rode the Sakanaw or Sakayan sa Danao (PhP500 per trip) to reach one of the two islets in the middle of the lake, where one can go tilapia fishing and picnic along its banks. Be mindful not to leave any litter. You can pitch a tent here and stay overnight a la Survivor with only battery-operated torch lights to accompany you into the night.

Starting any kind of fire is strictly prohibited in and around lake.

The beautiful Lake Danao is the biggest and the only natural lake in Cebu, a consistent winner of the cleanest body of water in all of Region 7. A government protected sanctuary, it is home to the purple heron and the Philippine wild duck and has been said to have a subterranean spring from which it gets its steady supply of water. An annual bike race is held around the lake, which will take you three

Five kilometers long and three kilometers wide, Lake Danao is fifteen feet at its deepest

One of the two islets in the middle of the lake

hours to circumnavigate through an 18-kilometer bike trail. The lake is also the site of the Bogsotoy, an annual boat race and a series of traditional and modern sports event held in October 31. Bogsotoy came from bogsay which means “to paddle” and sotoy which means “to go swiftly.” From the lake, we took a twenty-minute drive to the view deck where we saw the Lake Danao in its entirety, which is shaped like a guitar or the number 8.

We took a side trip to the Timobo Cave Resort, where you can swim in crystal clear, brackish water. It did not feel like a cave however because electricity has been installed along with, for no apparent reason, an image of Our Lady of Guadalupe. There seemed to be too many people inside the cave at the time, all of us thirteen including the three caretakers, which I believe can be hazardous because of all the noise that we made. A quick dip and we were out of the caves

and on our way to the Bantayan sa Hari, a watchtower built in 1820 by the San Franciscanons to protect themselves from the Moro pirates.

Along the way, we passed by the town’s oldest water reservoir, built in 1925, which is still in use, supplying water to downtown San Francisco.

San Francisco is a progressive town, the biggest in the island with an IRA of PhP6 million. It has its own spacious gym, a lively market located beside a clean and spacious bay walk. The bay walk was constructed in 2009 through the concerted efforts of mayor Alfredo Arquillano, Cebu governor Gwen Garcia and congressman Red Durano and has become a place for concerts and town events.

A few blocks away from the town square is the Saint Joseph Church, built in 1886.

And so ended our tour of the Camotes. Because of the proximity of Poro and San Francisco and for lack of time we were not able to visit Tulang and Ponson islands. As one of the residents had suggested, a month in Camotes may just be enough time to get acquainted with the islands and discover its untouched beauty. But then again, some who came had been drawn to the islands and never left.

The fact that people who visited the Camotes always come back is no longer a surprise. For this enchanting place may just be paradise found.

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The Timobo Cave Resort

Getting There All local airlines fly from Manila to the Mactan International Airport in Cebu. There are also flights to Cebu from other Philippines cities. Direct international flights come from Hong Kong, Singapore, Taiwan and Korea. From Cebu main island, there are several ferries going to the Camotes group of islands. There are daily trips from Danao City Port (motorized banca), Mandaue City Ouano Wharf (motorized banca) and from Cebu City Pier 2 (ferry boat). Chartered flights to the Camotes are offered by Mactan-based companies.

Acknowledgement The baywalk in San Franscisco is where the locals gather on weekends for dining, shopping and entertainment

Many thanks to the mayor of Poro Luciano D. Rama, Jr., tourism officers Joy Tawil and Fritz Dalumpines and their staff members Cheryl Borlasa and Issey Guinocor for their assistance and hospitality. For the tour of San Francisco, our gratitude to its mayor Alfred Arquillano and tourism officer Christy Gok-ong.

A villager weaves soli soli, a grass found within the banks of Lake Danao

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O

ne cannot turn away from the lure of white sands, crystal-clear waters and the rich marine life. Many resorts offer these with a promise of escape. To the northeast of the main island of Cebu, the Camotes Islands possesses natural wonders yet to be discovered by many. The resorts there, especially in the town of San Francisco, serve as a gateway to what the Camotes can offer.

The iconic view of the coral islet Mangodlong Rock Resort is famous for

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San Francisco Staying in

By Gesel Mangilit and Carmina Tunay • Photos by Donald Tapan

Once a serene fishing village, Mangodlong Rock still retains its tranquil nature. Sunsets are the most picturesque in this part of the Camotes

I

The Mangodlong Rock Beach Resort t was almost midnight when we reached Mangodlong Beach Resort in San Francisco from the Poro town square where we had a taste of the Camotes nightlife. Tired, we breezed through the check-in and retired for the night.

The following morning, we were greeted by a postcard-perfect view of the clear, blue sea and a coral islet sitting just a few meters off the shore.

Mangodlong Beach Resort opened in 2004 and is one of the well-known resorts in San Francisco, Camotes Islands. It is a twentyminute drive from the town of Poro and very popular because of its distinct feature, a coral islet just off its white sandy beach.

Named after the mangodlong fish that abound in the area, Mangodlong Beach Resort is two hectares of coconut-shaded garden sitting close to the beachfront. The coral islet extends all the way into the clear blue sea and is a perfect place to observe the beautiful sunset.

Craggy rock formations jut out from under this coral islet, which can be easily reached through a series of stone steps from the beach.

From this islet, you can dive into the pristine waters teeming with marine life and swim in between the limestone rocks, made charming with overhanging roots. The islet is planted with flowering trees, making it a garden oasis with tropical huts to shade you from the glare of the afternoon sun.

Beside the islet is an isolated hut at the top of a small rock formation. From a distance, the rock seemed to appear as the islet’s offspring. At close range, you observe the tiniest curves and crannies of the islet, formed by clashing waves.

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A mermaid statue was placed in a gap of the rock formation, but it was toppled during a storm, leaving only the tail and a hand visible from view, a curious and eerie sight. It remains as is because it is believed that the structure adds charm of the place.

The resort has eight air-conditioned beachfront houses with easy access to the pool, Jacuzzis and mini bars just outside the rooms. Once a serene fishing village, the resort’s beachfront houses is named after the fishes found in the area. Our rooms are named Bangaw and Gislang. The others are Labayan, Lamon Lamon, Pakol, Pugapo, Swahan and Timbongan.

“If you want to know how they look, you can go to the function room where their pictures are displayed,” says Rolan Barbadillo, the resort supervisor.

A few steps from the pool are tropical huts where meals (Filipino food and grilled seafood) are served. Seasonally served, a dish of fried mangodlong completes the resort experience. A huge coconut tree house, where you can have the food sent up, is also an option.

Another twelve rooms are located at the back of the property, also equipped with air-conditioning, televisions and bathrooms.

Although there are only twenty rooms, the resort is quite popular among vacationing families. Folks from neighboring towns come all the way just to have a nice stop, bringing along relatives and savoring the salty goodness of the sea.

For only twenty pesos, you can go horseback riding. If you’re looking for some water fun, there is kayaking, costing only PhP300 pesos per hour for one person and PhP400 for two. A thirty-seater pump boat anchored by the shore is for touring the coast. The trip

However, for those wanting a more upbeat atmosphere, Santiago Bay Garden Resort is the perfect choice

costs PhP2,000 an hour and goes around the island of Pilar, the islet of Tulang Diot and the marine sanctuaries in the barangays of San Isidro, Santiago and Consuelo.

The breathtaking sunset sets the perfect mood for the evening.

A candlelit dinner sets the romantic ambiance for couples, while families and groups of friends can have a good night chat and drinks in the cottages.

Entrance to the resort costs for PhP15 per person while the accommodations ranges from PhP1,700 a night at the coconut grove rooms and PhP2,200 a night at the beachfront rooms.

One of the beachfront rooms at the Mangoldong Rock Resort

S

The Santiago Bay Garden and Resort antiago Bay Garden and Resort’s charm is in the white sand on the shore. The beach measures 972 meters. One can spend the whole afternoon walking along the shore, admiring the view of

the sea.

The resort is quite popular for its beach, an edge San Francisco has over the others. Santiago Bay Garden and Resort can be considered as one of the most established resorts in the Camotes Islands.

Opened in 1998, Santiago Bay Garden and Resort started as a three-man operation. Now, the resort has 28 employees including two well-trained cooks, all proud Camotesnons.

Together, they maintain a resort of 54 rooms, six of which are non-aircon rooms while the rest all equipped with airconditioning and television, among others. Rooms are named after the plants that abound in the area. Guests can explore the lush resort grounds..

The resort’s main structure is a two-storey building with the restaurant on the upper floor and a bar on the lower.

Guests can experience fine dining with a view of the sea. The restaurant boasts its very own Santiago Bay Garden and Resort Pizza and SBGR Salad. The bar has two billiard tables.

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The town of San Francisco is famous for its long, wide stretch of white sand beach

at Santiago The infinity pool rds one a affo ort Res n rde Bar Ga tiago Bay San of w vie tic fantas

Connecting the main building to the rooms are the bridges at both sides of the restaurant. If one wishes to have a clearer view of the sea, one can go to the right bridge which leads to a spacious terrace, overlooking the infinity pool.

The property is 2.4 hectares. Aside from the hotel rooms, the resort has European-inspired villas, recommended for families that would like to have a home away from home.

The resort offers water activities such as snorkeling, diving and kayaking. Diving costs PhP1,200 an hour per person, while kayaking costs PhP350 an hour, good for two. Snorkeling gears can be borrowed from the resort.

How does the resort main the beach? “We seek the help of the barangay to aid us in cleaning the shore everyday. Of course, the resort staff assists as well.” says owner Joel Folbera. Waste management is also a priority of responsible Camotesnons.

Getting There From Cebu City Pier 1, take the pump boat Ave Maria. Travel time is three hours.

Arrive at Poro port and take a multicab or rent a van going to Mangodlong Rock Resort, which takes about thirty minutes and/or Santiago Bay Garden and Resort, which takes 45 minutes. Another option is the Danao Port. From SM City Cebu’s Traveler’s Lounge, take a shuttle to the Danao Port where you can take the Jomalia boat, which travels for three hours to the Camotes. You arrive at Jomalia Port in San Francisco and can take a multicab or rent a van going to Mangodlong Rock Resort and/or Santiago Bay Garden and Resort.

Contact Information Both resorts are owned by Joel Folbera and managed by Marites Folbera. You can contact them through the landline numbers (+63 32) 345-8599 and (+63 32) 344 6509, or through mobile numbers +63917-3290563 and +63917-6259565.

Villa standard rooms at the resort

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Poro mayor Luciano Rama (middle) performs with his band at the public market during weekends

I

The Mayor

Wears Two Hats

By Gesel Mangilit • Photos by Donald Tapan

n the town of Poro, one would see mayor Luciano D. Rama, Jr. constantly on the go—administering to the needs of his constituents at the town hall, going back and forth to Cebu City for meetings and events or as far as Manila to lobby for his town at the Senate.

“He does not even bring any bodyguards when he goes around town. He comes very early in the morning and is the last to leave at night, sometimes staying as late as 9 P.M. His attitude towards work is democratic yet results-oriented. Bakit bukas pa kung puwede naman ngayon,” said tourism officer Joy Tawil.

The strict work ethic stems from his early stint in the corporate banking industry both here and abroad.

On Thursdays and Saturdays, however, one would find the mayor and his band dishing out 1980s music on the stage of the Poro public market. We found that out one weekend when our group was invited by the soft-spoken mayor to hear his band play. He was at the keyboard and would sometimes sing as well. After the first set, he joined us for a round of drinks.

When we met him earlier in the day at the town hall, it was all business as he talked about his many plans for Poro. That night, however, we saw a different side of him—comfortable and laidback, talking enthusiastically about his work and the band.

“You know it is easier to talk business in a relaxed atmosphere like this. Besides, people are likely to be more receptive to your ideas over a round of beer,” he confided. He went on to add that “music is a hobby 50

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of mine, an outlet.”

“When I was living abroad, I taught myself how to play the keyboards. And when I went home to Poro two years before I ran for office, I already planned on putting up a band that will perform here at the public market. The instruments I got from abroad and had them sent here one at a time. Whenever I heard someone from the municipal office had a talent for music I would invite him/her to my house for some snacks. Little by little I was able to form the band. We practiced almost every night until we got the music right. Almost all the band members are municipal employees, while some are college students,” he shared.

He pointed to the lady vocalists onstage. “One is an 18-year-old college student and the other works as a ticketing officer of the ro-ro company at the port,” he said. But what brought the house down each time is the rendition of “Sex Bomb” by one of the male vocalists who he said is a local fisherman whose sounds like—whom else—Tom Jones.

“I discovered him in a singing competition and asked him to join the band. When we were in Cebu one time, kahit si Governor Gwen Garcia napahanga,” the mayor related.

During town fiestas and Christmas parties, the munisipyo no longer needs to hire a band because almost everyone in the mayor’s staff are performers, ready to take to the stage at the drop of a hat.

“You see, this way, the staff develops a positive work attitude. We learn to develop spontaneity and creativity on the spot,” he said.

Clearly, the mayor is as much in his element in the office as he is onstage.

EXPERIENCE

Borneo Elephant Quest Searching for the World’s Rarest Elephants in Malaysia’s Kinabatangan Floodplain Text and Photos by Gregg Yan

T

he humid air is stirred more by the legions of buzzing insects than by our boat’s easy movements. I yawn and promptly inhale some of them. We are cruising along the only highway this land will ever know, the Sungai Kinabatangan, Sabah’s longest river and Malaysia’s premier wildlife haven. Our goal is to track down and photograph Borneo’s famed pygmy forest elephants, reputedly the rarest in the world.

Proboscis monkeys crash rowdily through the foliage above. An hour ago we stopped for them, but now they offer little consolation.

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Brightly-hued tour boats scour lower reaches of Kinabatangan for wildlife.

It has been three hours, and we have found few signs of our quarry.

I don my cap in resignation.

Suddenly the lead boat erupts with excitement, its two passengers frantically snapping pictures of shadows we cannot yet distinguish. Straining my eyes, I think I see something moving behind the facade of foliage, something huge.

“Up ahead,” announces our wildlife guide and boatman Osman Umi. I glance back and hope he will say the magic word. He grins and gives off the slightest of nods: “Elephants.”

Eyes fixed on both banks, adventurers eagerly watch for wildlife.

Female Bornean orangutan (Pongo pygmaeus) clutches baby at Sepilok Orangutan Reserve, 26 kilometers west of Sandakan City.

Borneo from a Boat

I first heard of the Kinabatangan River after summiting Mount Kinabalu in November 2007. Fellow travelers regaled us with tales of misty rivers and enchanted swamps teeming with wildlife. Time and budget constraints ultimately forced us to instead explore the Garama River in Kuala Penyu, where we encountered proboscis monkeys, silver-leaf languors, and no elephants. Flying back to the Philippines, I vowed to someday revisit Borneo to finally see eye-to-eye Asia’s largest and most majestic animals.

The chance came four years later.

Scouring the Web for Kinabatangan tours, the name Osman quickly came up, along with testimonials of his out-

standing skills as both tracker and boatman. Soon we had set-up a three-day and two-night trip to see Borneo from a boat—at a fraction of commercial rates. Osman promised to meet us at Sukau junction, 135 kilometers south of Sandakan City.

We reached Osman’s riverside house after mingling with Bornean orangutans at the Sepilok Orangutan Reserve. The simple but spacious lodge has five rooms and perches atop solid stilts, insurance for when the river swells each December. A row of upturned rubber boots adorned the porch.

“Your first river cruise is in thirty minutes. Maybe see crocodiles,” announced Yanty while ushering us in. Osman’s wife is both a delightful cook and devoted ibu (mother) to six—Marnisha, Oto, Marlisa, Elisa, Ira and Wadi. Accommodations were spartan. Before setting off, we washed in wheat-colored river water.

An hour later we were cruising at two knots along the foreboding Menanggul River, looking for movement amidst the foliage and snapping pictures of both long-tailed macaques and a skateboardsized monitor lizard which had somehow hauled itself up a perfectly vertical trunk. After four years, we had finally found our way into the elephants’ backyard.

Osman Umi's riverside lodge, approximately 15 minutes from Sukau junction in Sabah, Malaysian Borneo.

Knee-high rubber boots protect against both mud and tiger leeches— most of the time

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Menanggul River

Loyola Mountaineers with Osman (top, center) and family at his riverside lodge.

Father River

Known as Father River, the mighty Kinabatangan springs from the mountains of southwest Sabah and races towards the Sulu Sea, east of Sandakan City—a distance of 560 kilometers.

Here thrive the oldest rainforests on Earth, formed 130 million years ago. From the ground, it is a verdant vision of ferns, vines, mosses and other plants jostling for space and sunlight, accompanied by a rhythmic soundtrack of insect, bird and primate calls. This is the realm of the Orang Sungai, the indigenous river people of Malaysia, a large group which speaks over 20 dialects. To the east lie 54

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Pig-tailed macaque (Macaca nemestrina) yawns at Sepilok Orangutan Reserve.

the lands of the Ida’an. Kampongs (villages) are connected by water, teeming with giant prawns, stingrays, even freshwater sharks. The setting isn’t as fantastic as Avatar’s Pandora, but it comes close.

The World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF) estimates that over 250 bird, 50 mammal and 20 reptile species inhabit the Kinabatangan.

Occasionally, the river might bless a lucky adventurer with a fleeting glimpse of the rare Bornean clouded leopard or the even rarer Sumatran rhinoceros. Even without binoculars, visitors can spot crocodiles, birds and up to ten types of primate, especially when the water recedes each summer.

The elephants are, of course, the stars. Borneo’s pygmy forest elephants are differentiated from Asian elephants by being smaller and more docile. They also have straight tusks, larger ears and tails long enough to give them an almost comical appearance. Males stand eight feet tall and tip the scales at 3,000 kilograms, with slightly smaller females. About 1,500 are left, prompting some scientists to consider them the rarest of elephants. The largest remaining herds are concentrated around the lower Kinabatangan.

Soon, Osman arrived to bring back great news: elephants were spotted downriver the other day! The 37-year-old first began ferrying adventurers nine years ago and knew each meter of his primeval playground. Still, he admitted, “It’s easy to get lost.” One night he set out to find tokay geckos alone in the forest. Eventually losing direction, he hunkered down until dawn with nothing more than a knife and a defective flashlight. “I not want to do that again!” he laughed.

I asked him if we might also see another animal on my list, the tembadau, Malaysia’s wild cattle. “Not likely,” he said. “Ever since palm oil plantations come nearer and nearer to the forest. Many wildlife now gone.”

Up to ninety percent of the Kinabatangan’s forests have been cleared, mostly for African oil palm plantations. About twenty processing mills dot the region. Requiring just three years to become productive, these sprawling plots produce oil for soap, fuel and oth-

Blue-eared kingfisher (Alcedo meninting) looks on during night cruise.

er commercial purposes. En route to the Kinabatangan from Sandakan City, we saw ordered rows of palm from horizon-to-horizon.

“But elephants easier to see now, for the only good forests left are near the river. Sometimes though, even they must pass through plantations, looking for food. Guards scare them off with explosives.”

As if on cue, a baritone boom reverberated across the Kinabatangan. I looked at Osman, but he was staring at the river.

At dawn Osman brought us to an oxbow lake, a prime spot for tracking wildlife.

“These track of mouse deer, maybe two days old,” gestured Malaysia’s incarnation of Bear Grylls. “This one Sambar deer. Just pass through now, see? Tracks still filling up with water.”

Animal signs were indeed everywhere: mud churned up by forest hogs, elephant rub-marks plus leopard scratches on trees. We encountered centipedes, and something much worse.

Though no tigers prowled Borneo, throngs of tiger leeches awaited warm-blooded clients along trails, canals and dense un-

Dwindling forest-cover forces Borneo pygmy elephant (Elephas maximus borneensis) to graze along riverbank. This female charged and kicked the author’s boat.

Lower jaw of pygmy elephant attests to human-wildlife conflict. “Elephants must pass through plantations, looking for food,” says Osman, who found the carcass hidden in the forest.

Author and elephant finally see eye-to-eye.

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gonna sit down!” shouts Paco, one of our friends. She doesn’t. Instead, she gives our boat a thunderous kick, knocking us, along with pieces of our boat’s wooden bow, back into the river. Then, she is gone.

We are all breathing hard. “Intense!” exclaims Ann. Our spirits soar, having just experienced elephant kung fu. We’ve done it. We’ve seen Borneo’s elephants from a boat. Little did we know that the smiling Osman had something even more substantial planned.

Eye-to-Eye

Red-legged centipede (Scolopendra valida) hides underneath leaf.

dergrowth. Before starting our elephant cruise, Osman taught us to dress and cover the bleeding bites with tape. Leech wounds took days to heal, but made for cool bar tales—a fair trade.

Elephant Kung-fu

We rapidly approach the excited boat. I can see movement behind the foliage, but just can’t see through. I duck for a second to remove my cap, and suddenly they are there. Elephants. Three of them.

Frozen at the bow of the boat, I no longer notice the buzzing of mosquitoes and the throbbing in my boots. There are only the elephants, passing slowly by a small break in the foliage, twenty feet away.

The boat jolts and hits the bank. Osman is bringing us in! With tensed muscles, I explode off the boat, knowing guides rarely allow guests to land. When I snap pictures, the nearest animal retreats trumpeting into the green. Did we scare it off? Before I can react, the elephant re-emerges and charges straight towards us. It is gaining ground fast. Only, the boat is moored in the mud, and I am stuck out front.

I crash back to the boat, an elephant on my tail. In seconds, it reaches us and does an about-face, revealing it to be female. “She’s 56

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“When I say run,” instructs Osman as he sits calmly in a clearing six feet ahead, “you run.” I nod, straining to see what the herd will do next.

We are again in the forest, sun rays filtering through the canopy to paint our world dappled shades of jade and chocolate. Five elephants stand shoulder-to-shoulder, forty feet away. Overpowered by the wafting stench of musk, I wrinkle my nose.

Three of us are crouched behind tiny trees, trying not to make any sounds. The boat, with our more sensible team members, is 80 feet behind.

I came to Borneo to see elephants up close. Now it seems I’m getting my wish, as a tusked seven-footer trumpets and trots ahead of the herd. Osman notices. “Don’t panic, just keep taking pictures.”

At thirty feet, the moss-covered tree I’m cowering behind seems toothpick-thin. At twenty feet, my heart pounds so hard I actually hear it thumping. Ten feet.

Adios! I turn tail and bolt towards the nearest large tree—grizzled, with a drum-sized trunk. No way am I going to be turned into a human pancake. Turning back, I find Osman laughing and playing with the wild elephant. He looks at us beaming. “This one always curious...so I never say run!”

We laugh along, realizing Osman knows this forty-strong herd well. We watch them play and spar for what seems a lifetime, but is closer to half an hour. As we stand to leave, the tusked elephant approaches me, stopping behind some foliage. We look one another eye-to-eye, and I say goodbye.

Back at the house, we enjoy a traditional Malay dinner of udang galah, curried river prawns. The day is done; we’ve had our fill of adventure and now we are having our fill of food. Hands still dripping with sauce, I go outside to look for Osman, savoring the cool night air. I want to thank him for showing us where the wild things

Curried udang galah tastes better when eaten the traditional Malay way—with bare hands.

Scratches of clouded leopard (Neofelis diardi), plus snarl heard at night, attest to its presence.

are, but he’s lovingly cleaning his boat for another run on the Kinabatangan.

I leave him be and rejoin the group. Perhaps he’s recalling the generations of people his boat has taken down the Kinabatangan, people whose lives have been forever touched by seeing pot-bellied proboscis monkeys, shy orangutans and magical elephants. I can

still see him smiling. And all around him the river flows, the way it has for millennia.

Contact Information For a one-of-a-kind wildlife adventure down the Kinabatangan River, contact Osman and Yanty Umi at +6019841525.

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A Brief

Romance Italy

with

By Dheza Marie Aguilar

Piazza San Marco in the heart of Venice is probably the city’s most crowded square.

Venice is not complete without the gondolas (facing page).

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Colorful building

s along the Gr and Canal

In the summer of 2010, after watching Letters to Juliet, I booked a ticket to Italy for a trip by myself, which I take annually. While the movie’s location set in rustic Verona was inviting, I chose to explore touristy Venice, thanks to the memories of my high-school teacher including her gondola rides in the city.

A young, married woman traveling alone still raises eyebrows even in progressive Western Europe, especially if the destination is Italy, where men are charmers and wines are aplenty. The city of Venice seduces with romance and adventure and I didn’t have the courage to resist.

When the bus driver pointed to the long covered pathway to the water bus station outside Marco Polo airport, half of it in cobblestone, I sighed. A mini skirt and a five-inch stilleto weren’t exactly the proper attire for this sort of walking, especially when you are carrying twenty-five kilos of luggage.

“So much for arriving in style,” I said to myself followed by crisp expletives.

In the scorching heat of the Italian summer, the walk to the waterbus station felt like eternity. Luckily, there were still several seats available in the vaporetti and as soon as I settled on the plastic chairs, I began to relax.

As the vaporetti cut into the murky waters between Venice and Lido Island, I was already dreaming of sunbathing on the beach, delighting my taste buds with pasta, pizza, vinos and gelatos, and a full day of shopping in Milan. And while I had no intention of getting charmed by the Italian men, I did however plan to get intoxicated with the alcohol.

Island Life in Lido

In Lido de Venezia, life is slow, a total contrast from the bustling city life on the main island.

Very early in the

morning, while the tourists were still sleeping, the locals were already busy, lining up at their neighborhood bakeries for breakfast or shopping for the day’s menu.

I would join the locals for espresso on a small coffee shop near the piazza and watch them as they greet each other with “Buon giorno” on their way to work.

Lido is the home of the Venice Film Festival, gamblers and cruise ships. Its first claim to popularity is as the setting of the tragic novel Death in Venice by Thomas Mann. This made the beautiful Grand Hotel de Bains not only a historical hotel but one which is impossible to book and painful to afford.

So I instead I stayed at Vime Byron Hotel, an almost haunted building with 1960s furniture, which probably hasn’t been changed since they were brought there.

Lido is surrounded by beaches with fine, white sand. In the summer, these beaches are frequented by Venetians and Italians from neighboring cities. Most hotels and casinos have their own, private beachfront. The public beach, however, has open cottages and lounge chairs which you can rent for a minimal price.

The locals would arrive early in the morning, and by noon the public beach would be filled with scantily-clad, middle-aged Italian ladies sunbathing on the beach with their bare torsos, big hips and overflowing self-confidence.

The beauty of Lido Island not only lies on its beaches but also in

its historical buildings. The Moorish and Renaissance influences are visible on the designs of the buildings and the colorful houses that lined its shores.

During sunset, these houses are illuminated by the golden rays of the sun, providing a scenery which in every angle is a perfect photo.

On my first day on the island, I spent half of it walking around its not-so-narrow streets, espying the beautiful Venetian houses, hanging at the banks of a few canals filled with little boats and making small conversations with the ladies at the beach. When exhausted, I’d stop by at one of the gelato stores at the square and buy myself the biggest cone, walk to the boardwalk and spend the sunset hours watching Italian millionaires park their yachts at the port. The passengers of big luxury ships would come out of the deck to admire the sunset.

It was the most ideal island life.

A Train Ride to Milan

On the second day, I got up very early to fulfill one girly dream—shopping in Milan.

I took the waterbus to Ferrovia, intending to catch the first train to Milan at Santa Lucia Station, one of the two main stations in Venice. It takes four hours to get to Milan but apparently the direct connections only go every two hours. It was a long wait so I decided to explore the narrow alleys near the station.

Aimlessly I walked to the direction of Santa Maria di Nazareth, the church right beside the train station. More popular as Scalzi Church (Church of the Barefoot) Santa Maria di Nazareth was constructed in 1660 and designed by Baroque architect Baldassarre Longhena.

From here I crossed Scalzi Bridge and continued on a narrow

street teeming with restaurants and souvenir stores, each vying for your attention either by screaming at you to come inside or persuade you with the colorful wares they are selling. I did not give in and instead continued to a much smaller bridge and somehow ended at a quaint spritz bar called Profondo Rosso at Sestriere Cannaregio.

The neighborhood around Profondo Rosso is like an Italian ghetto—clothes were drying on the balconies of tall buildings with paints coming off their colorful walls.

I was a bit discouraged to go inside the dark bar with local men drinking spritz so early in the morning, but the lesbian bartender looked like she can defend her customers the same way she dodges the teasing of the men. I brought my espresso outside and killed time enjoying the view of small colorful boats parked at the canal.

Few tables away from me were a group of old women, blabbering with each other propably about the group of men on the other table playing cards at nine in the morning.

This is the daily scene in the Jewish quarter, which in 1516 was a restricted area where Jewish people were mandated to live. The term ghetto however does not have any connection with the American slang for “slum.” It is derived from gettato or “smelted,” and this place is where they originally melted metals.

By the time I finished my espresso, it already had been three hours. I rushed back to the train station but this time the urge to enter one of the many shops won over me. I was enamored by a display on the window of Atelier glass store: a lovely set of six Murano wine glasses with golden linings on their mouths.

The matriarch of the atelier was kind enough to reserve the set for me, which would have been too heavy to carry to Milan.

Venice is considered “glass island� because of the famous Murano glasses. These glasses had been famous since the tenth century for its colorful and exquisite designs and excellent craftsmanship. The glasses were exclusively made in the small island of Murano, near Venice, but the glass makers eventually spread to nearby cities.

When the train finally arrived, I immediately hopped on, sank into my seat and immersed my eyes with the beautiful Italian landscape outside my window.

Passing through Verona, one can treat his eyes to the sights of the craggy Italian mountains, rolling hills filled with acres of cornfield and vineyards and marble rocks gleamming white in the distance.

Castles, churches or villas adorn every hilltop and a sea of retiled roofs is an indication of nearby towns. Behind the overgrowth beside the railways, you can see a glimpse of the Italian rural life, a sight of old big mamasitas drag-

Water buses are the most effective means of transportation in the island (top). From any vantage point, Venice is always beautiful (middle). Tourists ride on and marvel at the gondolas that glide on Venice ’s canals (above).

The Basilica di San Marco and its bell tower is one of the Venice ‘s most beautiful churches (left and below). Across it is the Piazza San Marco (bottom). When sale season hits Milan , the city goes crazy with discounted items (top, facing page). More than the grappa, Bassano del Grappa is famous for its breathtaking landscape with old, colorful houses well preserved by the local residents (bottom and inset, facing page).

ging their shopping trolleys and men and boys in their shiny Vespas.

Far from the bustling cities and the imposing architecture, rural Italy is a destination in itself, especially for those who have enough of touristy destinations and are in want of respite and tranquility.

In this first trip to Italy, I was reunited with my love for long train rides, the slow and soft bumping of the gears on the tracks, the sudden jerk when halting and the romantic tour of the Italian landscape.

In between Verona and Milan, my train of thoughts was cut off when a conductor asked for my ticket. Confidently, I showed the ticket and hoped that he will leave right away. Unfortunately, due to my excitement of reaching Milan, I forgot to stamp my ticket in those little yellow machines at the station.

In my poor Italian, I tried to convince the conductor that it was an honest mistake, even showing him the return air ticket to the Netherlands. The two Indian-Italians sitting opposite me also tried to reason out with the conductor and told him I am just a naive tourist. But the conductor did not budge. It was either I pay the fifty-Euro fine (which is equivalent to a nice Italian shoes) or get out in the middle of nowhere. The thought of being alone in a vast, unknown Italian province scared me so I drew my wallet and paid the fine with a heavy heart.

“But you just go to Verona today. You still have six hours with this ticket,” he sympathetically told me and walked away without a smile.

My irritation was indescribable, and I was near tears.

By the time I got to Milan it was already three in the afternoon.

The stores were closing at six, and I was starving. I raced to Piazza del Duomo and sat at the first restaurant I saw in the building opposite Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. While eating my fifteen-Euro spaghetti, I watched the impressive building and wondered if I can afford anything from the boutiques inside it. As it turned out, I could not afford even a handkerchief at any of the Prada, Loui Vuitton or Gucci stores inside so I instead immersed my eyes with the beautiful nineteenth-century design of the building especially its magnificent dome.

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Since Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II is too expensive for me, I walked to the other side of the building, where most of the highstreet fashion stores and Italian boutiques are located.

Summer is also Europe’s sale season, and in July Milan is bursting with people dashing for the latest bargains. There are enough stores to cater for every girl’s shopping whim but you must be armed with a fat wallet, a lot of patience and at least two days. I did not have these luxuries so three hours after I left the Milan shopping district without even appreciating the fourteenth-century Gothic church Duomo di Milana just meters away.

Enchanting Bassano del Grappa

The previous day’s train ride inspired me to make another train journey outside the city of Venice. This time to a small city called Bassano del Grappa.

Time seemed to stand still in Bassano del Grappa. It was a total contrast from the noisy and busy Venezia. This sleepy town north of Veneto was put on the map by its famous grappa.

Grappa was the only reason why I visited Bassano—to discover a new drink. It is made from leftover pulps, seed, skin and stem of grapes used for making wine. Bassano del Grappa prides itself in having the best selections of grappa in the whole of Italy.

Aside from the grappa, the city is also famous for the Ponte degli Alpini, the covered wooden bridge designed by the great Italian architect Andrea Palladio.

But more than the alcohol and the bridge, what made me fall in-

love with Bassano is the breathtaking view of the town, the sparkling River Brente and the majestic, snow-covered Monte Grappa.

I arrived in the city almost an hour before lunchtime, and the city smelled of freshly baked bread and pasta with a waft of grappa.

But there wasn’t any hint of hurry in the tempo of the city.

Here, you can sit the whole afternoon on the terrace of La Taverna and watch in awe the almost innocent Monte Grappa and the crystal water of River Brenta flowing under Ponte degli Alpini and sparkling in the summer sun. The river is so clean that you can see the rocks on the bottom and little fishes swimming undisturbed.

It is very easy to get lost to the view of the old castle and daydream about centuries gone by when monarchs roamed around the narrow alleyways and lovers secretly met at the Palladio Bridge.

After securing my seat at the terrace, I spent the whole afternoon watching the locals go about their business. At the end of the bridge, a group of local men were gathered at the distillery, enjoying their shots of grappa after lunch. A little further away was the Museo del Grappa, which during the summer was still not as busy as the other museums in Venice.

When the charming Roberto took my order, I let him fix my lunch and decide for my drinks, with a special instruction of bringing me the best grappa. He came back with a foccacia sandwich and a glass of sweet Müller-Thurgau from the Dolomites. After two glasses, Roberto brought a sexy glass of grappa to my table. The strong

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The matriarch of Murano glass distributor Atelier in Venice

smell of the spirit immediately clouded my nostril. I swirled the glass a little and tried to finish it in one sip as how it’s supposed to be drank. But the alcohol was too strong. With a small sip I felt my throat and my stomach burning.

“It’s a young grappa; it’s a little strong,” Roberto explained to me with an amusing smile I suspect he gives to naïve foreigners who thought that they can brave a young grappa.

I calmed myself by filling my lungs with the fresh, chilly air blowing from Monte Grappa and indulged once more at the intoxicating view. A few minutes more, I braved the alcohol once more, my palate getting more familiar with the sweet-stinging taste of the grappa. By the time I finished my tiny glass, I was already wobbly and wanting to crawl back to my bed in Lido. But I had not bought my bottles from the museum yet so to remedy some of the effect I ordered a double espresso. With my coffee, Roberto generously offered a shot of apple liquor which I wanted to decline.

“It is very smooth, not like alcohol, just liquour and very delicious,” he insisted after sensing my apparent hesitation.

The drink was a refreshing finish to the lunch. It seemed to have washed down the effects of the grappa and the wine from my sys-

In Venice ’s seafood restaurants, you can pick your choice and have it cooked right in front of your eyes

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tem, and I left La Taverna with a warm, light and fuzzy feeling emanating from my heart. I wanted to stay but I have a train to catch.

Back to Venizia

I must have been a bad tourist but definitely not a bad traveler. I did not spend as much time in Venice like normal tourists would do.

After coming back from Bassano del Grappa, the romantic, chaotic and old city of Venice did not appeal to me as much as it did when I first came here.

I took one last walk around the city, from the crowded San Marco, crossing Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge) and its luxury shops, to get to the other side of the Grand Canal. I passed by rows of restaurants and their waiters barking at people to come inside, the parked gondolas and their charming gondoliers and the vendors selling to every tourist who walks by.

Venice is definitely romantic especially during sunset, when the golden rays of the sun illuminates the domes, towers and centuryold buildings slowly sinking in the murky waters of the Venetian Lagoon. But despite this enchanting scenery, all I wanted to do was get back to Lido Island, where I can see Venice from afar and enjoy the tranquility of an Italian sunset.

I took the next waterbus to Lido de Venezia, passing for the last time the Baroque building Ca’ Rezzonico and Ca’ d’ Oro, the allwhite Fondaco Dei Turchie, Santa Marie della Salute Church, a couple of bridges and finally the colorful houses in Burano before we docked at Lido. By this time, I had already stopped taking photos and just let my memory remember the old-world beauty of Venice.

On my last night in Venice, I joined the classy crowd at the fourstar hotel Villa Laguna drinking their champagne at its seaside restaurant. The sky was bathed with red, and the sun was slowly setting behind the dome of the San Girgio Maggiore Basilica. The lights of Venice flickered from a distance. Its seduction was still irristable but I enjoyed it better from a distance. I rose my glass and toast to the city for a wonderful sojourn and promised to see her again.

Top Luxe Destinations in the Philippines

The Philippines has what it takes to become Asia’s top luxe destination!

On July 5, the Philippine Tour Operators Association (Philtoa), an organization that has been actively promoting inbound and domesiic tourism for the past 25 years, unveiled the Philippines’ most luxurious destinations during the celebration of their 25th year in the tourism industry.

Department of Tourism Secretary Alberto Lim and special guest host Boy Abunda were both present to show their support and to unveil the Top Ten Luxe Destinations for 2011. The selection process for this was based on each property’s product packaging excellence, world-class facilities and for showcasing the best of Filipino hospitality.

“Philtoa has primarily been focused on providing budget travel deals for the market,” explains Cesar Cruz, Philtoa president. “But this year, we decided to do something different. In addition to highlighting the beauty of our culture by way of the various destinations that we have been promoting for the past couple of years, we also wanted to show everyone that the Philippines has what it takes to become Asia’s premier luxe destination.”

Sec. Lim, who has been wholeheartedly supporting Philtoa’s projects for years, gave a talk bout the current state of tourism and how forming a partnership with the private sector can pave the way for a rise in the volume of visitors in the upcoming years. He also expressed support for one

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Philtoa project in particular: the upcoming 21st Philippine Travel Mart (PTM), which is the biggest and the only travel expo that exclusively caters to featuring the Philippines’ top destinations.

“We congratulate you at the Philtoa for making PTM a bigger and better event this year,” said Lim. “For the Philippine Travel Exchange (Phitex), we’re targeting 200 foreign buyers coming from the growth and opportunity markets such as Korea, Japan, China, and the like. In addition to that, I’d also like to congratulate Philtoa on its 25th birthday. May you have many more successful and prosperous years ahead of you.”

The unveiling of the highly anticipated list of luxe destinations was like no other. It was not only a night of showcasing what the Philippines had to offer in terms of tourist destinations, but also in terms of local talent. As celebrity guest host Boy Abunda announced the winners, everyone was also treated to a fashion show that featured the country’s top designers such as Rem Divino, Shanon Pamaong, Johnny Abad, Jojie Lloren, Fanny Serano, Edgar Madamba, Gerry Katigbak, Renee Salud, Randy Ortiz and Dita Sandico-Ong. Also included in the fashion show were the stylish outdoor brands of the Primer Group of Companies, which provided people with the latest functional and fashionable accessories and outfits from brands such as Volcom, Roxy, Jansport and many more.

The Imperial Palace Waterpark Resort and Spa in Mactan Island, Cebu, boasts of a sprawling water park with five different themed pools. The El Nido Resorts (below) in Palawan offer diving, kayaking and snorkeling, among others, for guests to appreciate the natural wonders of the town and well-appointed cottages for a luxurious stay.

The 2011 list of Top Luxe Destinations in the Philippines includes: Bellarocca Island Resort and Spa in Marinduque

With its white Santorini–inspired architecture on rolling terrain contrasting with the azure of the sky above and the clear water below, the luxurious Bellarocca Island Resort and Spa offers a fantastic experience unlike any other place in the Philippines and across Southeast Asia. This is especially ideal for couples that are on their honeymoon.

Among the many activities at Bellarocca, newlyweds can have a private outdoor movie screening or they can opt to have a picnic lunch on a private beach.

They can also cruise on the resort’s power boats and island-hop or book a local tour around Marinduque all arranged by Bellarocca’s Lifestyle and Recreation Activity Consultants. This world-class resort ensures exclusivity, privacy and luxurious pampering for a most relaxing stay for everyone.

holidaymakers since it combines rustic surroundings, modern conveniences and genuine Asian hospitality that are distinctly Shangri-La.

Shangri-La Boracay in Aklan

It is the first international deluxe resort on Boracay Island and has been included in the Conde Nast Hot List 2010 and the Travel

Shangri-La Mactan in Cebu

Nestled amidst thirteen hectares of lush greenery, landscaped gardens and with a 350-meter exclusive white-sand beach, Shangri-La Mactan Resort and Spa in Cebu is the quintessential modern-day paradise. It is an exciting refuge for nature lovers and a favorite among Volume 7 Number 3, 2011 EXPERIENCE Travel and Living |

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Bellarocca Island Resort and Spa in Elephant Island, Marinduque, is distinctive with its white Santorini–inspired architecture.

+ Leisure It List of 2010. Here, beach lovers will not only be able to enjoy the scenic beaches during their stay, they can also use the resort’s recreational facilities such as a health club, one of the country’s largest freeform swimming pools, a marine center and many more.

Misibis Bay Resort in Albay

This tropical sanctuary provides an escape for travelers who are looking to relax after a stressful time at work. Misibis Bay Resort is Bicol’s most prestigious location and guests can go on an adventure ride using an all-terrain vehicle (ATV) around Cagraray Island or they can enjoy a variety of water sports such as windsurfing, kayaking, parasailing and more. For something different, travelers are invited to go on an interactive whale shark adventure.

Crimson Resort and Spa Mactan in Cebu

The Crimson Resort and Spa Mactan in Cebu was masterplanned by world renowned resort architectural and interior design firm of Wimberly Allison Tsong and Goo (WATG) from California and the landscape architecture of Belt Collins from Hong Kong.

Nestled in one of the country’s most prestigious tourist destinations, guests can also enjoy an array of water sports available at the private beach or they can get pampered at the resort spa.

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Eskaya Beach Resort and Spa in Bohol

This world-class resort nestles amid sixteen hectares of lush tropical gardens on Panglao Island and is made up of fifteen private villas and a superb spa, which is why it is the perfect place for indulgent privacy and seclusion. Guests will have countless choices to achieve calm and recreation. They can choose to have a delicious meal while enjoying the scenery or they can bask in the privacy of their own private swimming pool in the midst of this serene beach hideaway.

El Nido Resorts in Palawan

Known as the vacation spot where holidays are turned into distinctive lifestyle experiences, guests will appreciate the scenic landscape, crystal-clear waters and relative isolation the luxurious resorts offer. The resorts offer a wide range of activities, from soft adventure sports to more leisurely pursuits. Travelers can go kayaking or go on a guided tour to some of the area’s most breathtaking tourist attractions.

Imperial Palace Waterpark Resort and Spa in Cebu

This five-star hotel takes leisure to a whole new level by being the only water park in Cebu. With five different themed pools such as the Amazon River Pool, the Wave Rider, Beach Pool, the Captain

The Crimson Resort and Spa Mactan in Cebu is designed by a world renowned resort architectural and interior design firm.

Hook’s Pool and the Toddler Pool, families will surely have a fun and memorable stay at the Imperial Palace Waterpark Resort and Spa.

Discovery Country Suites in Cavite

A proud recipient of TripAdvisor’s Certificate of Excellence Award, this luxury bed-and-breakfast place is part of the Kiwi Collection, which is the most comprehensive listing of luxury lodges, inns and resorts in the world. Guests can visit the many quaint shops of a lakeside community or they can visit nearby attractions and go on nature trails. This is also the ideal vacation spot for couples on their honeymoon, and whether or not you’re taking a romantic stroll or you and your significant other are off enjoying the delicious wine and cheese at this cozy bed-and-breakfast place, you’re sure to have a memorable vacation in this lavish Tagaytay accommodation.

Discovery Shores Boracay in Aklan

This resort emphasizes privilege, luxury and indulgence.

Guests are treated to top-of-the-line accommodations, services and amenities as they enjoy the fantastic white-sand beach of Boracay.

The resort is also known for the Sandbar, which is a bar that serves

delicious and refreshing cocktails as well as sumptuous dishes.

“I hope everyone will visit these world-class destinations,” says Cesar Cruz. “These vacations spots are ideal for people who want to treat themselves to a lavish and relaxing getaway.”

In addition to the unveiling of the top luxe destinations, Philtoa also provided everyone with a sneak peek of the upcoming 22nd Philippine Travel Mart. It is the only travel expo in the country that exclusively promotes inbound tourism, and this year’s PTM promises to be bigger and better than the previous ones. Travel enthusiasts who are looking for the ultimate vacation experience will definitely want to visit the 22nd PTM, which will be held at the SMX Convention Center at the Mall of Asia from September 2 to 4, 2011. It consolidates the different provinces and regions of the Philippines and various tourism sectors around the country in one grand event.

With over 200 travel booths, the event is getting stronger than ever that helps create awareness and appreciation about domestic tourism while generating substantial revenues for exhibitors, which amounted to a total of over PhP30 million from last year for a threeday event.

For more information, visit www.philtoa.org.

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EXALT

The Attraction of Mother Mary and

Cagayan

A

The province of Cagayan is studded with centuries-old brick churches including the Minor Basilica of Our Lady of the Visitation in Piat (left), home of the miraculous Our Lady of Piat, and the Saint Peter’s Metropolitan Cathedral in Tuguegarao City (right), main venue of the Marian Voyage of Peace and Love, a major event in the celebration of the 428th founding anniversary of the province.

Text and Photos by Roel Hoang Manipon

fter two storms that soaked Metro Manila and many parts of Central Luzon, Cagayan felt like another country with a heat that seemed eternal. But the fervor was definitely Filipino. Perhaps it added much to the temperature, the gathering of the people and their collective adoration and supplication. At high noon at the courtyard of the centuries-old Saint Peter’s Metropolitan Cathedral in Tuguegarao, Cagayan’s capital city, twelve images of the Virgin Mary, most of them resplendently dressed, were brought in and lined up near a stage. People thronged to each of them, mounted on trucks, many going to one image after another, praying and wiping any part of the image with their handkerchiefs or letting the images’ custodians do it to the inaccessible parts especially the face. The hankies were now 70

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blessed. A mannish and swarthy policewoman, with two female companions, was holding a tiny baby and going to as many images as possible. She gave him/her to a custodian, who seemed to offer him/her to the Virgin Mary and had the child touched by the image.

The twelve images, all coming from northern Luzon, are some of the most venerated and are said to be miraculous in the Philippines, a staunchly Catholic country that has a fondness for the infant Jesus and the Virgin Mary. They were gathered here for the so-called Marian Voyage of Peace and Love, one of the major events of the 428th founding anniversary of the province of Cagayan, about 480 kilometers northeast of Manila, called Aggao Nac Cagayan: Fiesta ta Bannag or Day of Cagayan: Feast at the River, which started on June 23 and culminated on June 29, the foundation day.

Our Lady of Piat (above and top, left) is the patron of the Cagayan Valley region. The papier-mache image is more than 400 years old and is credited for numerous miracles. A replica was brought to Tuguegarao City for the Marian Voyage of Peace and Love event, in which twelve Marian images were gathered. One was Our Lady of Manaoag of Pangasinan (top, right), who accompanied Our Lady of Piat when she was brought home to Piat in time for her feast day.

A plethora of events and activities were prepared for the week— a dog show, medical missions, cook-offs, a jobs fair, dance contests, quiz contests, sports competitions, an art exhibit, recognitions, a fireworks display, among others. Major events were the street dancing showdown, an agricultural and trade fair and a beauty pageant, all staples of a modern Philippine festival, participated in by the province’s 28 towns and one city.

The agricultural and trade fair was at the sprawling and dusty Cagayan Sports Complex, where the different towns set up their own booths, creatively designed to show off their identities, displaying their unique products and promoting their tourist attractions.

These events were meant to show the different aspects of Cagayan as well as the talents, character and skills of the Cagayanos, primarily made up of Ibanags and Itawes and later Ilocanos. The Marian event is said to make manifest the deep religiosity of the Cagayanos. Cagayan is primarily known as the home of Our Lady of Piat, the designated patroness of the Cagayan Valley Region (Region II), a sprawling area between the Cordillera and Sierra Madre moun-

tain ranges and given life by the mighty Cagayan River, the largest in the country.

“We are very happy. As you know, we Cagayanos are very devoted to Our Lady. We can attest that she has always been protecting us from typhoons, from any calamities. She has been covering us with her blue mantle. So we are very happy that twelve Marian images are here right now in Tuguegarao City,” enthused Blessida Diwa, the petite regional director of the Department of Tourism (DoT), one of the organizers of the Marian Voyage together with the archdiocese of Cagayan and the Cagayan North Conventions and Visitors Bureau.

We were having lunch at her residence in the Alimanao Hills, near the Cagayan Provincial Capitol, a beautiful, airy house with a spectacular view. Diwa is Ilocano, born in Bantay, Ilocos Sur, and was educated as a nurse. But she said her heart is Cagayano, and she takes “tender, loving care” of the visitors and tourists, she quipped.

“What we are offering here in Cagayan Valley Region is adventure tourism, and of course, our very own pilgrimage tourism. Not only that, we also have food tourism and eco-tourism,” the tourism official in her talked.

Indeed, Cagayan Valley has them all. For eco-tourism, one can go to the seven-chambered Callao Cave in the nearby town of Penablanca. The Pinacanauan River that flows nearby leads one to more caves from which thousands of bats fly out during dusk, an amazing sight. The province of Quirino is gearing itself to become an adventure destination, and Santa Ana in northern Cagayan is a known game fishing destination.

The food should not be missed when one is in this region. During our lunch, Diwa served sinanta, a soup of glass and flat noodles and chicken made russet with annatto seeds and the accompanying pinacufu, a flat oval, fried rice cake with sugar crust, much like karioka. But my favorite is the pansit Cabagan from Isabela, which Tuguegarao has a fancier version called pansit batil-patung, and the pawa, steamed rice balls with peanut filling, from Piat, Cagayan.

Diwa also said that Cagayan is unique, being the home of the Ibanag people with its own intriguing language. She taught us a sentence: Mattaki y futu megafu nikau. It felt intense and passionate. It means “My heart is aching because of you.” It struck me and became the first Ibanag sentence that stayed with me.

The staying power of the language among young Ibanags may be diminishing. As we walked among the crowd, we kept hearing Filipino being spoken. I thought there were many visitors at that time. Tourism officer Fanibeth Domingo explained that people here prefer to speak in Filipino because of it is a cool thing to do. Mataki, indeed.

Above all else, Cagayan is primarily known as a pilgrimage site.

The region attracts nearly 700,000 visitors yearly for the last five years. Ninety-five percent of which are Filipinos and the rest are foreigners led by the Chinese, Americans and Koreans. Most of the visitors here are devotees, going to pay homage to Our Lady of Piat. Additionally, the region is studded with wonderful Spanishera churches made of bricks. One can easily visit many of them, being strewn along the Maharlika Highway.

“Why go to Rome when you can go to Cagayan Valley and visit 18 Spanish-era churches. If you include Batanes, there are 22. Five of these are National Cultural Treasures,” Diwa beamed.

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One of the highlights of the celebration of the 428th founding anniversary of Cagayan, the trade fair, which was held at the Cagayan Sports Complex, showcased creative and crafty booths of the province’s different towns, which displayed their products.

es—constructed in bricks from clay sourced from the banks of the Cagayan River—of Iguig, Tuguegarao, Alcala, Gattaran, Camalaniugan, Buguey and Lal-lo.

The building of these churches began when the Spaniards arrived in the province. The occasion is recognized here as the foundation day of the province of Cagayan. It is said that Juan de Salcedo traced the northern coastline of Luzon and set foot on Massi, Tular and Aparri in June 29, 1583. Spanish friars soon followed, establishing mission posts. One of the missions is Nueva Segovia, now called Lal-lo, which became the capital of the Cagayan Valley, which was also called Nueva Segovia, and the Diocese of Nueva Segovia was created in August 14, 1595, by Pope Clement VIII, making the town its seat. Churches began being constructed all over the valley, blending Western and local sensibilities and displaying a design born out of unique circumstances. The material itself is not customary for such edifices, thus presenting a different and remarkable way of how churches look and creating other design idioms.

The Saint Peter Metropolitan Cathedral in Tuguegarao, where the Marian event was held, is the largest church in the region. It started out as makeshift shift when a mission pueblo was founded here by Fray Tomas Villa in May 9, 1604, with Saint Peter and Saint Paul as patron saints. Father Antonio Lobato, a scholarly priest who compiled the first Ibanag-Spanish dictionary and laid out and developed the streets of the town, spearheaded the building of the church in June 17, 1761, and finishing it in 1767. The progress of the town was hastened by the opening of the Cagayan-Manila road in 1738

by Fray Jose Martin. As the town prospered, the capital was moved from Lal-lo to Tuguegarao in 1839. In 1910, Tuguegarao was made the seat of the diocese. During World War II, the church was heavily damaged and was rebuilt by Bishop Constance Jurgens.

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A replica of Our Lady of Piat arrived from Tuguegarao at the Minor Basilica of Our Lady of the Visitation, where a homecoming mass was celebrated. She was welcomed by the pious townsfolk.

At the end of Rizal Street, in Bagumbayan, one can find the ruins of hornos, big brick kilns, used to fire bricks for the church.

In the book Philippine Church Facades, published in 2007, Father Pedro Galende describes the façade of the Saint Peter Metropolitan Cathedral: “The façade of Tuguegarao Church follows a touch of whimsy and playfulness. This is evidenced by its broken and crested pediment, bunches of high relief pilasters that come in threes in alternating display of smooth and solomonic forms, and arched windows that have finialed frames and a triangular pediment. A deeply recessed circular window is the pediment’s focal point.”

He continues: “The brick walls of the church and bell tower are set against the smoothly plastered forms of cornices and pilasters.

Layers of bricks molded and laid by local masons and artisans are a symbol of the Christianization of the people of Tuguegarao, which survived the lashes of World War II. Clusters of engaged columns crisscrossed by double cornices define the length of the church’s pointed windows, spiral columns and niches.”

He describes the bell tower as “very tall, rising in five tapering tiers with the same motif of smooth and twisted pilasters and framed windows. The bell tower is quaintly capped by a canopied roof surmounted by a cross.”

But perhaps the most visited is the Minor Basilica of Our Lady of the Visitation or Our Lady of Piat. What makes this church notable is not its design but its being the home of Our Lady of Piat, a papier mache image that has remarkably survived for more than 400 years.

The image was fashioned in Macau and brought by the Dominicans to Manila and then to Cagayan in early 17th century. Circumstances surrounding the image’s journey from Macau to Cagayan remain mysterious. Once enshrined in Piat, devotion to the image started and spread from Piat to the outlying towns and other provinces. Now, Our Lady of Piat is one of the most popular Marian images that riddle the Philippines. Our Lady of Piat is held in high esteem by the Cagayanos to the point that affiliation with her is integral to their identity.

Since the beginning, Spanish priests were puzzled by the fact that the natives were immediately taken with her. Perhaps the image is “muy morena,” dark-complexioned, that Filipinos easily identified with her more than the blond, foreign-looking ones, especially the Ibanags, who are said to be very dark in complexion. Domingo said you can distinguish the Ibanags from the other people by the color of their skin, a kind of darkness that can be acquired through exposure to the intense Cagayan sun along the river. Ibanag means “river people.”

The Cagayanos’ soft spot for the Marian image is said to have a long history even before the coming of Our Lady. Among the saints and religious images brought in by the Spaniards, Mary is most pre-

A devotee offers a baby to be blessed by one of the images

Our Lady of Peace and Good Voyage of Antipolo, Rizal

Our Lady of Manaoag of Manaoag, Pangasinan

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Department of Tourism regional director Blessida Diwa shows a painting depicting her show of gratitude to Our Lady of Piat (left) for the miraculous healing of her baby. A grand procession during dusk was one of the highlights of the Marian Voyage of Peace and Love, in which twelve Marian images were paraded through the main thoroughfares of Tuguegarao City (right).

ferred, a maternal figure of care and comfort, a symbol of benevolent power.

The ready acceptance of Mary among the Ibanags can be explained by the fact that in old Ibanag communities there were and still are women healers and spiritual figures, who are fondly called kako, “grandmother, the wise old woman or the Ancient One.” “Among the Ibanags, women then and now perform the invaluable role as kavulun na entero tangaravvun-gan (companions of the whole Earth community),” wrote Rosario Battung, a Good Shepherd nun, in her essay “Kako and the Women Healers of Capatan,” included in the anthology Centennial Crossings: Readings on Babaylan Feminism in the Philippines, edited by Fe Mangahas and Jenny Llaguno and published in 2006.

She explained that Earth to them is part of the whole cosmic reality, whose part is connected by one breath or life.

“This contemplative dimension,” she said, “has made it possible for us to adapt Mary, the pregnant mother of Guadalupe, Mary Magdalene and specially Mary, Our Lady of Piat, the Brown Madonna, introduced in 1604. The three continue to be our ‘companions of the whole Earth community.’

“To us, Mary, as Brown Madonna, our compassionate mother, since 1604, is certainly a domesticated Mary. She has become our people’s beloved mother. As the one who answers with haste when the people pray her rosary, and she responds to the people’s version as taught by kako—pappakanayun na passervimi ta utun na davvun.

Over the centuries she goes out into the highways and byways helping the most needy so we too may continue to serve the tangaravvungan, our Ibanag phrase which literally means one earth community, our cosmic community of all related beings, who share the same inango.”

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until now, numerous miracles attributed to Our Lady of Piat have been reported. Diwa herself experienced such a miracle. After our lunch in her home, she showed us a watercolor painting of Rino Hernandez dramatically interpreting Diwa’s thanksgiving for her miracle, an image later echoed by the policewoman with a baby.

Her son John Paul, then six-month-old, was diagnosed with leukaemia and was rushed to Manila from Cagayan for treatment. The situation was dire, but Diwa kept praying to Our Lady of Piat. There were daily blood transfusions, but the doctor could not promise anything positive. On the seventh day, a miracle happened. Earlier findings turned out negative. The doctors and technicians were puzzled, but the child’s doctor, Gene Purruganan, a devotee of Our Lady of Piat, was convinced it was a miracle. Diwa, her husband and son drove to Piat, and upon reaching the altar she knelt in gratitude.

Diwa has been a fervent devotee of Our Lady of Piat. In her house, there is a prayer room with a large image of Our Lady. Every year, she has been bringing a replica of Our Lady of Piat around Metro Manila. Her promotion of the devotion to Our Lady is also a promotion of tourism in Cagayan Valley. The Marian Voyage of Peace and Love, in which Our Lady of Piat is the star, is a show of devotion as well as a tourism attraction.

“We had meetings with the archbishop Diosdado Talamayan.

He wants to promote Cagayan Valley. That’s why we have a good partnership,” said Diwa.

The Marian event has been held for three years now, and it is gaining a following.

This year, the twelve images arrived on June 27 at the Cagayan Provincial Capitol and were welcomed with a Eucharistic celebration at the provincial gym, before proceeding to their host schools.

Before, the images were hosted by the Tuguegarao’s many chapels and churches. This year, schools were designated as temporary

Our Lady of Namacpacan of Luna, La Union (left) and Our Lady of Badoc of Badoc, Ilocos Norte (right).

homes for the images, where people can go to pay homage.

At Linao National High School, along Linao Highway, Our Lady of Badoc from Badoc, Ilocos Norte, stood regal. The resplendent image of Our Lady of Guibang from Gamu, Isabela, drew admirers at the Cagayan National High School, along Bagay Road. The Tuguegarao East Central School at the city center welcomed the golden Our Lady of Charity from Agoo, La Union. Our Lady of Namacpacan was carried from her home in Luna, La Union, to the University of Saint Louis Tuguegarao on Mabini Street. From Valenzuela City in Metro Manila came Our Lady of Fatima, simple in white and blue, and was stationed at the Medical Colleges of Northern Philippines on Caggay Highway.

The Nuestra Senora del Mar de Cautiva of Santo Tomas, La Union, was designated to Tuguegarao Northeast Central School, while the Nuestra Senora de Caridad (Our Lady of Charity) from Bantay, Ilocos Sur, to Tuguegarao West Central School on Luna Street. The famous Our Lady of Manaoag from Manaoag, Pangasinan, was given to the care of the Cagayan State University, and Our Lady of Immaculate Conception from Malolos, Bulacan, to the Tuguegarao North Central School.

Our Lady of La Naval from Santo Domingo, Quezon City, which stars in an annual grand procession in Manila, was at the St. Paul University Philippines on Mabini Street, while the Our Lady of Peace and Good Voyage, another famous image, from Antipolo, Rizal, was at the University of Cagayan Valley. On the other hand, Our Lady of the Holy Rosary from Piat, beloved by the Cagayanos, was very special that it was housed at the city’s main church, the Saint Peter Metropolitan Cathedral.

The following day, devotees flocked to the schools and attended forums which included historical backgrounds on the images, testi-

monials, lectures on the role of Mary and special devotions. Confession sessions were also held.

On June 29, the images were brought to the cathedral where a concelebrated mass was held. At dusk, a grand procession of the images livened up the city’s main streets. It culminated with fireworks.

The following morning, the Marian images were set to be brought to home to their respective churches. Some of the images accompanied Our Lady of Piat as she was escorted home to Piat in time for the town’s Sambali Festival and her feast day on July 2. We joined the caravan, traversing an undulating landscape and crossing rivers, 33 kilometers northwest of Tuguegarao, passing by the town of Solana.

In Piat, there were groups of people waiting along the highway to welcome Our Lady. Some brought out small tables with religious images, lit candles and flowers. Some threw flowers on Our Lady’s path. As we near the town proper, school children lined both sides of the street, waving flags as the Marian images passed by. The images momentarily stopped by groups of dancers for the Sambali Festival, depicting the Christianization of the native Sambali people in dance dramas. At the church, the images were installed in front of the altar, near the original image of Our Lady of Piat, mounted on a small replica of a ship garlanded with flowers.

I went up to Our Lady, touched the hems of her scintillating blue gown and prayed for love, offering my heart like a sickened child. Before the homecoming mass began, we left for Tuguegarao to catch a flight back to Manila. As we sped along the highway, the radio played Madonna’s iconic song “Like a Virgin,” a puzzling thing, so apt yet so inappropriate. It was also about love anyway, and we sang along: “I made it through the wilderness/Somehow I made it through/Didn’t know how lost I was/Until I found you....”

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ESCAPE

Life Intensified in Apulit, Miniloc and

Lagen

T

By Roel Hoang Manipon Photos by Donald Tapan

hree years ago, in 2008, I went to El Nido for the first time. I can still remember the visit like a vivid dream from start, in the airport, until the end. There were more crates of fruits and vegetables inside the 19-seater Dornier 228 plane than passengers. I could feel the friction between the small aircraft and the rushing wind outside, exacerbating the aching of my ear from the altitude. Flying south of Manila and passing the island of Mindoro, the view from the plane window was the endless expanse of sea veiled with clouds until, after about 400 kilometers, we were flying over the northwestern part of Palawan.

One by one, the islands showed up, several in strange shapes, with their wreaths of vegetation. I had a feeling that we were on an adventure, an expedition. It also spoke of exclusivity, of luxury. That thought was ushered in at the airport. We did not pass through the usual terminal. The Island Transvoyager has a small one tucked in a side street between bigger and more commonly used airport terminals. There was a private lounge for passengers going to El Nido. It was as though we

At Lagen Island Resort in El Nido, Palawan, there is a sandbar where private romantic dinner or picnic can be set up (left). The company which operates the El Nido Resorts acquired Club Noah Isabelle and reopened it as Apulit Island Resort, which has a similar look as those of the El Nido Resorts (inset, below). It has water cottages standing above the waters and set against spectacular limetone cliffs.

were going to a secret hideaway.

I also had a feeling that we were going to one of the most beautiful places on Earth, which intensified as we approached and crystallized as we landed. I read in a travel magazine that the El Nido airport is most beautiful—the plane flying among the limestone islands and formations and then among coconut trees, before touching down at a dirt road, or runway.

At the airport, two large huts served as terminal, offering local sweets to arriving and departing passengers. Nearby was the beach, lovely in its desolation, where there was a wooden pier. A boat was waiting for us, the start of a journey of wonder.

El Nido is up there with Batanes as one of the dream destinations of the Philippines. Those who have gone there and are asked to describe the place often give a deep sigh and a pensive look. I had received enough of these sighs and looks to think these places as mythical as Shangri-La. In this return, the feeling was still the same—excitement and anticipation that sometimes developed as tingling electricity flowing to the fingertips and soles of the feet. This time, another resort was squeezed in—Apulit Island Resort in the town of Taytay. I got to share this trip with Bob. There were many passengers that drizzly early morning. We enjoyed the chocolate and banana muffins and coffee being offered. The attendants demonstrated safety procedures; the planes were too small to do for that. About five planes were lined up and one by one took off.

As soon as we left the sprawling metropolis behind, I dozed off and woke up to a dream—a gleaming turquoise sea studded with islets and atolls, and hills emerald with forests. I saw areas I could only imagine what they look like on the ground because I may never be able to go there—villages that seemed isolated in coves and islands, roads that disappeared into mountains, white-sand shores that seemed deserted.

Cesar Lim Rodriquez Airport in the barangay of Sandoval, Taytay, was a brown, unpaved airstrip surrounded by verdant hills and grasslands. A bungalow with a grass roof served as terminal and waiting area. A small tower also had grass roofing. I was charmed. The guide from Apulit Island Resort, Jayson, herded us to a customized jeepney, gaily painted as usual, which would go to the jetty port along the Tamisan River. A walkway of wooden planks skirted a clump of mangroves leading to the boats. Several vendors were selling roasted cashew nuts and native sweets. Thick mangrove forests lined the river.

I scanned the forest for some wildlife—a macaque maybe, or monitor lizard or even a crocodile. But the river and forests were silent. I could only hear the motor of the boat as we went out to Taytay Bay. Jayson served coconut cookies and salabat (hot ginger tea), while we watched islets and felt the spray of the sea on our skin.

After about seventy-five minutes, we reached Apulit Island. With about forty hectares, it is one of the biggest islands in the bay, with towers of ash gray limestone garlanded with vegetation. Handsome cottages stood above the waters against the cliffs, flanking the white-sand beach. The resort staff came out to welcome us with songs, dance and necklaces of coconut leaves folded into flowers or fish.

Apulit Island Resort was formerly the Club Noah Isabelle Resort.

It closed down, was acquired by the company that owns the El Nido Resorts, the Asian Conservation Company (ACC) and Ten Knots Development Corporation, and reopened early 2011.

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Water sports equipments such as kayaks are available for guests at Apulit Island Resort (right). The outdoor restaurant at Miniloc Island Resort offers sumptuous dishes including fresh seafood (middle). The North Cave of Apulit Island is eyed as a venue for romantic and out-of-the-ordinary dinners (bottom). Exploring the Big and Small Lagoons in Miniloc Island, in Bacuit Bay, is one of the must-do activities at the El Nido Resorts. I and Bob enjoyed kayaking at the Small Lagoon (facing page).

the three. The shore of the main cove is 120 meters long, where thirty cottages—single-storey, modern huts with balconies—were strewn on both sides, connected by walkways. The rest of the cottages are located a few meters away, near the western side of the island. The twenty cottages are split-level, duplex-style accommodations suitable for families and barkadas, with balconies and direct access to the sea. Bob and I would lounge at the balcony, watch the sunset, look out for fish— mostly needlefish and occasional parrotfish—and listen to the sound of the waves crashing underneath us.

The western cottages are near the West Beach, a 350-meter stretch of white sand, which affords guests a more private picnic or swim. Most facilities of the resorts are at the main beach—the clinic, the boutique, the bar, the billiards table, the beach volleyball and badminton area, the conference rooms, etc. Water sports implements are strewn on beach like giants toys—bright green kayaks and the Hobie catamaran. At the middle of the beach is a large hut—perhaps the largest single structure on the island—housing the restaurant, where we had delicious seafood barbecue and Mongolian barbecue under the stars, by the sea.

Our stay was brief and there were much to do. Island hopping would take much time. Unlike in El Nido, the islands in Taytay Bay are farther apart. We opted to visit the caves of Apulit Island and go snorkeling.

There are about five caves in the island, accessible from the sea.

We took a boat and visited them. Our guide first took us to Bat Cave, so called because it is inhabited by bats. Nearby is Secret Cave, situated a few meters above sea level. During high tide, it is hidden from view, thus the name. Another similar but smaller hole was identified as Lobster Cave, because many lobsters were caught there. Now, they can’t find any lobster, the guide said.

Saint Joseph Cave is a gaping hole on the limestone cliff. A rock formation many people say resembles the image of Saint Joseph stands by the entrance, an eerie sight. The main entrance was too high to climb up, but there is a smaller and more accessible entrance. During the days of Club Noah Isabelle, the cave was used for private, romantic dinners. Inside, one finds a table and wooden and bamboo stairs. But another cave is being eyed as a venue for private dinners, located north of the island.

Apulit Island is sometimes said to be shaped like a dragon. A rock outcrop, which looks like a separate islet, at the northern side is said to the dragon head. Near it is the North Cave, which has a small lagoon.

One has to swim across the pool to get to a small area with a skylight.

Here, one can have a private dinner. The resort is planning to build a small bridge across the pool.

For snorkeling, we were taken to Nabat Island, said to be one of the best sites for snorkeling. It is also a diving site. We took time to marvel at corals, anemones and fishes. Above water, eastern reef egrets flew and perched on rocks.

That night, we feasted on seafood. The French resident manager Franck Merot went from table to table and asked about our stay. He came from the Horizon Edsa Hotel in Mandaluyong City before transferring to El Nido Resorts. He will be managing Pangalusian Island Resort, the fourth ACC resort, when it is finished early next year. Flowers, he said. He wanted to see more flowers planted on Apulit Island. The Lagen Island Resort, the most “forested” among the resorts, is his favorite because it has gardens. I dreamt of blooms that night, under and above water.

The next morning, a boat was waiting for us to take us to the mainland. From there, we would travel to El Nido, the adjacent town north 78

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of Taytay. The resort bade us farewell with songs and dances. As our boat departed, the manager with some of the staff waved goodbye and did not stop until we were but a big speck on the big, blue sea. One can get emotional as I did the first time I was in El Nido Resorts with the show of warmth.

It took us more than an hour to get to the mainland. The town proper of Taytay is heralded by a big white sign, set among its rolling hills, spelling its name, just like in Hollywood.

Then one sees the old stone fort, the Fuerza de Santa Isabel, built from 1667 to 1738 by Spaniards, used mainly to defend against Moro raiders. Taytay is the first capital of Palawan, then called the Calamianes. El Nido was once part of Taytay. Today, Taytay remains as Palawan’s largest municipality, surpassed by the capital city Puerto Princesa, which is the Philippines’ largest city in land area.

We had no time to drop by Taytay Fort.

The trip to El Nido would take about two hours, mostly on rough roads. The travel afforded us a view of the northern Palawan countryside.

We were charmed by the El Nido town proper, a community thriving among dramatic limestone cliffs. It was my first time in the town proper. A boat picked us up at the pier and set forth into Bacuit Bay. The sky turned gunmetal gray with threat of rain, but the somberness was brightened by a surprising thing. Instead of leaping fishes, brown butterflies accompanied us, precariously flitting among the waves, brave little fellows. They are going from one island to another in search of nectar, someone explained. They may also be migrating just like the monarch butterflies in North America.

The islands of Bacuit Bay never failed to inspire awe. About 45 islands and islets with their interesting flora and fauna are strewn in the bay, which connects to the South China Sea and the Sulu Sea. The Linapacan Strait lies to its north. Here, the Ten Knots Development Corporation maintains two excellent resorts

The port and reception area of the Apulit island Resort

in two separate islands. The resorts not only offers places to stay, with all the amenities expected of a world-class haven, but also access to the wonders of the area and an experience that will burn in the soul. Moreover, they involve those who stay there to care for the environment as much as the people behind the resorts, something that has earned them respect and accolades worldwide.

In the middle of Bacuit Bay, surrounded by the islands of Paglugaban, Entalula, Matinloc, Inambuyid and Dilumacad, Miniloc Island is the first home of the Ten Knots resort. Set against limestone cliffs, a cluster of rustic cottages stand on the white-sand shore of one of its coves, some jutting out to the sea. Being 25 years old, some cottages of Miniloc Island Resort show their age, still retaining its make of mostly bamboo, coconut and grass, but remain well-maintained and charming.

In some ways, a cottage looks like a local fisherman’s hut only with resort amenities. I was told that those who started the resort were divers, on board their dive boat Via Mare, who ventured into El Nido.

They built cottages in which to stay while exploring the area. Ten Knots, named after the belief “that ten knots is the ideal speed not only in getting to their dive destination quickly, but also cruising leisurely enough to appreciate and enjoy Nature’s endowments,” became a group of companies that includes one that focuses on property management.

Then ACC became involved with the venture.

ACC relates its history: “In November 2000, a group of individuals from private foundations, venture philanthropy and an investment manager (Next Century Partners) were brought together by the World Wildlife Fund’s Center for Conservation Finance. On a boat amidst towering limestone cliffs and pristine waters in the marine reserve of El Nido, Palawan, Philippines, the group brainstormed about how best to combine business and environmental conservation for the long term.

The result was a private equity holding company whose first achieve80

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ment was a successful bid for majority share in the Ten Knots Group, owners of El Nido Resorts, a ‘responsible tourism’ operation with properties in the El Nido-Taytay Managed Resource Protected Area.”

In 2010, major property company Ayala Land, which is furthering its tourism forays, went into a joint venture with ACC, securing a sixty percent share. With Ayala Land, El Nido Resorts is adding another resort, the Pangalusian Island Resort, which is projected to be the most luxurious in the area.

Meanwhile, Miniloc Island Resort retains history as well as builds new facilities. The resort has fifty rooms—seven Water Cottages, five Seaview Rooms and ten Deluxe Seaview Rooms built on stilts over the water; 13 Garden Cottages surrounded by tropical plants; three Cliff Cottages nestled high in the hillside; and twelve Beachside Rooms. Additionally, there are ten Deluxe Seaview Rooms in a two-level cluster, with solar-power energy, efficient lighting system and ceiling fans.

Aside from the rooms, the resort has a restaurant, a boutique, a video room, a game area, the Pavilion Bar and a conference room. Near the resort is a small cove the staff called Payong-payong, where a private dinner can be set up.

The water in front of the resort has an average depth of eight meters in which large diamond-scaled mullets (banak) swim about. They are considered pets, and delighted guests often snorkel with the fish.

There are myriad activities available at both resorts. We were assigned an activity officer, who helps in planning and arranging activities, and serves as guide, giving pieces of advice and answering your questions. We were given the Eco-nido bag in which to put our nonbiodegradable trash, but my favorite is an illustrated checklist in which to log in the species we spotted. The information will be added to the resort’s database. Listed are the whale shark, parrotfish, the clownfish, the jack, the black-tipped reef shark, the giant clam, the crown of thorns,

The beachfront cottage at Miniloc Island Resort

The water cottages of Miniloc Island Resort. Being the oldest of the group, it still retains its rustic charm.

the barrel sponge, the feather star, the sea urchin, the Bryde’s whale, the bottle-nosed dolphin, the Palawan squirrel, the long-tailed macaque, the Tabon scrub fowl, the green sea turtle, the hawksbill turtle, the water monitor lizard, the banded mangrove snake, the grey imperial pigeon, the Palawan hornbill, the lesser frigate bird, the eastern reef egret, the white-breasted sea eagle and the black-naped tern. With this, we became more familiar with the fauna of the area.

During my first time, we had a picnic lunch at Entalula Island, where there is white-sand beach to swim in and a limestone cliff to tackle. Here, one can sail a Hobie cat, kayak, windsurf, or play volleyball or badminton. Now, we went straight to one of the highlights of the activities in Miniloc Island—a visit to the Big and Small Lagoons—a spectacular, almost surreal venture.

The lagoons are located on the northeastern side of the island. We went by boat. A narrow channel with soaring limestone cliffs on both sides served as passageway. We saw congregations of sea urchins, a couple of baby sharks and a monitor lizard. We kayaked around the lagoon, our voices echoing through the silence. Most of the time, we were silent in awe. In 2004, The Amazing Race made the Big Lagoon one of its featured sites.

To get to the Small Lagoon, we had to kayak our way though a small opening. During high tide, we might have to swim underneath or have to lie down on our kayaks. We were rewarded with another place of beauty. I was reminded of the Suhoton Cove in Surigao del Norte.

Bob went snorkeling, discovering the moving shadow underwater was a big school of sardines. Here, life manifests in vivid and varied ways it makes you feel happily alive.

Lagen Island is nearer to the Palawan mainland. About ten years old, the Lagen Island Resort boasts of upscale accommodations surrounded by landscaped gardens. Already of modern construction, La-

The swimming pool at Lagen Island Resort

gen also has fifty rooms—Water Cottages built on stilts on both sides of its cove, Beachfront Cottages with a view of the entire cove, Forest Rooms and Forest Suites built on the fringes of a tropical forest. All rooms are equipped for a comfortable stay—air conditioning, private toilet and shower with bath amenities and a hair dryer, a mini-bar, stereo system with CD player and IDD telephone. Lagen Island’s clubhouse houses the air-conditioned main dining area which serves buffet and a la carte meals. On the lower level are the boutique, game area, library, clinic and conference room. Nearby is the swimming pool and a spa, providing a view of the sunset. The marine sports center has a complete line of diving and snorkeling equipment, as well as kayaks, windsurfs and Hobie cat. Of course, there are a host of activities as with Miniloc Island Resort, including hiking, lagoon tours, cave tours, mangrove river tours, bottom fishing, bird watching, hat making, picnic lunches, sunset cruising, kayaking, windsurfing, Hobie cat sailing, snorkeling, diving and dive courses with prior arrangement.

Behind Lagen Island, there is a sandbar where private dinner can be set up. One can also visit the cathedral-like cave of the islet of Pinasil or the venture into Vigan Island, a small islet with a long, winding sand spit, thus its popular name, Snake Island. Our boat docked along the sand spit, on which we walked to the top of the island. One can swim in the surrounding waters. Curiously, pitcher plants thrive on Vigan Island and nowhere else in Bacuit Bay. Along the way, we saw makeshift huts perched among the cliffs near caves and openings of some of the islands. Busyadores or nest gatherers staked their claims on the caves. Swiftlets come to El Nido and Taytay in certain seasons to mate, build nests and lay eggs. The nests are made from their saliva and are a treasured ingredient in Chinese cuisine. El Nido means “the nest” in Spanish.

The resort maintained the Pangalusian Beach Club on Pangalusian Volume 7 Number 3, 2011 EXPERIENCE Travel and Living |

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The Miniloc Island Resort is the first resort of the Ten Knots Group.

mals, including the Malayan Pangolin; 16 bird species endemic to Palawan; and numerous marine creatures.

Guests are always made aware of the environment and are encouraged to participate in its preservation. The resort personnel are knowledgeable, able to identify animals and plants in the area. Because of their environmental efforts, the resorts have received numerous awards including those from international travel magazines such as the Conde Nast Traveler, Travel and Leisure and National Geographic Adventure.

A stay at El Nido not only invigorates the body, but also refreshes the soul. Seldom does a resort have the power to change you.

Getting There Visiting the Big Lagoon of Miniloc Island can be an awe-inspiring experience

Island where guests can have lunch but it was gutted by fire in 1998. The island is the site of one of the early resorts in El Nido. The former owner, the Gordon family, built a resort in 1982. The island was then acquired

by Ten Knots. Now, a luxury resort is being built.

Aside from the facilities and service, another admirable thing about the El Nido Resorts is its commitment in caring for the community and the environment. A large part of El Nido Resorts’ charm owes much to the surroundings. The resorts are located in the El Nido-Taytay Managed Resource Protected Area, which covers over 36,000 hectares of land and 54,000 hectares of marine waters, with five species of mamThe well-appointed rooms and cottages of Apulit Island Resort and El Nido Resorts

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The fastest and most direct way to get to El Nido is from Manila. Island Transvoyager Inc. operates daily flights to El Nido for El Nido Resorts using a 19-seater Dornier 228 aircraft. Flying time is approximately 75 minutes and lands directly at El Nido Airport. Flight reservations may be made through El Nido Resorts. At El Nido Airport, guests are met by resort staff and transferred to a motorized outrigger boat for a scenic ride to the resorts. The boat transfers takes approximately 40 minutes to Miniloc Island and 50 minutes to Lagen Island.

El Nido is 238 kilometers northwest of Puerto Princesa, Palawan’s capital. There is a bus going from Puetro Princesa to El Nido. The ride takes about eight hours.

Contact Information

Contact the El Nido Resorts with Metro Manila office at the 18th Floor, 8747 Paseo de Roxas Street, Salcedo Village, Makati City; telephone numbers +(63 2) 894-5644, and +(63 2) 750-7600; fax number +(63 2) 810-3620; emails apulit@elnidoresorts. com and holidays@elnidoresorts.com and Web site www.elnidoresorts.com.

B

Hot Springs Sea’s Spring Resort has 56 deluxe rooms and eleven dormitory-type accommodations (above). One of the most noticeable features of the resort is the fifteen-foot giant slide beside a hot spring beside it (below)

Have an Invigorating Stay with by the Sea

By Gesel Mangilit Photos by Donald Tapan

atangas maybe a few hours’ drive, but it is world’s away from city life, offering the tired and weary many options—from basking in the sun, trekking the rocky terrain to exploring the sea. The waters off Batangas offer the best dive sites in the country. It is the hub of water sports years before any of the other diving spots have been discovered.

Batangas has always been an ideal place for me to relax and unwind on weekends. So I wasn’t going to pass up the chance to see this new resort that has, among other things, a natural hot spring touted to have curative properties.

In the town of Mabini, there is a small barangay called Mainit, so called for its natural hot spring discovered many years ago. This property was bought

by An Young Chan, Korean owner of Shin Yang Inc., and developed it into a resort now called Sea’s Spring Resort.

Now a sprawling five-hectare complex that houses 56 deluxe rooms, eleven dormitory-type accommodations, a restaurant, a dive center and two large pools, Sea’s Spring Resort, now a year into its operation, has become a byword along the coast of Mabini, mainly because of the healing waters of the two-pool natural hot spring Jacuzzis that it houses, along with a Korean bamboo sauna built close to it.

Both pools are alternately drained daily, and fresh seawater is pumped in. Water temperature is maintained at a manageable 39 to 40 degrees Celsius.

The very accommodating hotel personnel, however,

erty that allows much room for its guests to enjoy the sea in privacy if they so choose. And that to me is most important as the beach is a private escape for me, allowing me to recoup my energies for the busy weekdays that are to come.

The lack of a beach for swimming is made up for by two large seawater pools with a fifteen-foot giant slide and a wading pool.

Guests can engage in water sports such as volleyball or banana boating. If you’re a novice scuba diver, you are in capable hands because the resort has its own well-equipped dive center, and instructors are PADI-certified (Professional Association of Diving Instructors).

On a clear day, the sea is perfect for some serious diving or snorkeling. The waters are deep, and there is plenty of marine life to discover and appreciate. Occasionally, one can see a shark in the waters of the neighboring islands when one goes island-hopping and perfectly shaped corals when one finds one’s self underwater, swimming alongside seahorses and colorful fishes.

All the rooms have a view of the sea overlooking Tingloy Island and on the horizon the lush island of Verde. Triple, double and single occupancy rooms are available, equipped with 32-inch televisions and mini bars. Unlike other resorts, much thought is given on toiletries as they provide premium shampoos and noni soap or black seaweed soap for their guests. I thoroughly enjoyed those since one of my pet peeves when I visit any resort is scrimping on bath implements. Not so at this resort and that, for me, is a bonus.

The hotel is good place to hold conventions and seminars.

Eleven dormitory-type rooms can accommodate eight to ten people while the restaurant, which serves Korean and Filipino foods, can comfortably sit 100 people. A separate structure houses three conference rooms and five karaoke rooms for some nighttime recreation, far enough from the main hotel for the guests to enjoy all-night singing if they so choose.

A trek at the surrounding hillside is also an option. For indoor activity, you can play billiards at the resort’s recreation room. The resort has a motorboat for excursions to the neighboring islands of Tingloy and Cormico. A fascinating side trip to the quaint Sombrero Island may be thrown in for the guests’ pleasure. At the end of the day, there is no better way to relax than with a thirty-minute soak at the hot springs, a few minutes at the bamboo sauna to detoxify and finally a soothing massage which the resort can arrange.

Getting There Sea’s Spring Resort welcome guests in its posh reception area (top). The banquet facilities can accommodate big events (middle). Guests have many recreation options (above).

point to an undeveloped area in the property where a small pool spews out sulfuric fumes and the water is hot enough to boil an egg for fifteen minutes. It is a curiosity visitors like me would enjoy seeing, and true enough there it was—a boiling pit of sulfuric water that connects to a series of pipes to harness the curative powers of the sea.

With such a naturally-occurring asset, the resort is a perfect spot for a spa village. Hotel management is planning on other improvements. Among them is the construction of fifteen luxury villas and a white-sand beach. The plan is very promising as the resort is a sprawling property with so much potential.

There were many guests in the resort the weekend I was there, mostly foreigners and Koreans who enjoy the dishes in its spacious dining area. Unlike other resorts, Sea’s Springs is an expansive prop-

Take SCTEX and turn right at the last exit, which is Exit 50. Head left towards Batangas then turn right to Star Tollways. Turn right at the last exit (Batangas City exit). After the toll booth at the rotunda, go right at the second exit going to Bauan. Head straight and look for an overpass. Once you see it, do not go up; keep right and turn right going to Mabini. When you see a Jollibee branch, turn right and follow the main road. After you pass by the Batangas Hospital, there will be a short bridge, and the road will split. Take the left road. Keep following the main road and turn left to Barrio Bagalangit. Follow the winding main road and turn right to Sea’s Spring Resort.

Contact Information Triple sharing rooms are at Php4,500, double rooms at Php4,000 and single occupancy rooms at Php3,500. Dorm-type rooms are at Php800 with common bathroom and restroom. Sea’s Spring Resort may be reached through their Manila sales office with telephone numbers (+63 2) 881-1766, 526-4846/49. Hotel site mobile numbers are (+63917) 564-8085 and 564-8087. Look for Maureen Welan or Wi-Young “Ryan” Bong. Check out their Web site at www.seasspringsresort.com.

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LEISURE and ADVENTURE

Fish are cultivated in cages along the rivers of Tagum City (below). Residents also catch fish in the open sea (right). One can enjoy fresh seafood such as shrimps and crabs in Tagum (inset, facing page).

Tagum City mayor Rey T. Uy rides a jet ski at Banana Beach (below, facing page).

M

angrove trees thrive on the tidal flats, in coastal waters, extending inland along rivers where the water is tidal, saline or brackish.

“There are 25 to 30 species of true mangrove trees and an equal number of associated species,” says Dr. Miguel D. Fortes, a marine science professor and technical consultant to various national and international institutions.

Mangroves are very important to marine life. They serve as sanctuaries and feeding grounds for fish that nibble on detritus (fallen and decaying leaves) trapped in the vegetation and on the bark and leaves of living trees.

Those living in the costal areas turn to mangrove for cures for various ailments, including premature falling of hair, boils, snake bites, small pox ulcerations, sore eyes, tumors, tonsillitis, hemorrhoids, skin eruptions, burns, diarrhea and intestinal bleeding.

Mangroves also provide protection from storm surges and high winds associated with tropical typhoons. In addition, they serve as protection against soil erosion. Other important benefits from mangroves include being land builders through soil accretion, coastal pollutants trappers and wildlife sanctuaries. They also has aesthetic, educational and scientific values.

These pieces of information came from the experts themselves. I have written several articles on mangroves and I fancied myself being knowledgeable. I have seen lush mangroves in Palawan. Mati in Davao Oriental has a mangrove forest reserve. Traveling from Digos to Davao, I got a text message from Cromwell Bonghanoy asking if I can join a media team from Manila, who would be touring around Tagum City. Since I had nothing to do on the weekend, I accepted the invitation.

“I will just pick you up in Davao City,” said Bonghanoy, who is 88

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River

Cruising in Tagum City Text and Photos by Henrylito D. Tacio

the city information officer and happens to be a friend.

He picked me up. Travel time from Davao City to Tagum City was about an hour since there was no traffic along the way. The whole day was spent on touring around the city and was capped with a dinner at the house of mayor Rey T. Uy, whose daughter was celebrating her birthday.

The media team had the pleasure of talking with Uy. He discussed his plans for the city and how he managed to bring the city into what it is now—progressive and moving forward.

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Small outrigger boats are common in the rivers of Tagum (below). One can go cruising on the city’s rivers such as the Nabintad River (middle). One can also go kayaking and explore the mangrove forests (above).

with us to the river cruise the following day. Uy didn’t answer immediately; he asked someone about his schedule for the weekend. “I think I can go with the group,” he told me.

The following day, we had breakfast at the hotel where we were billeted. After that, we traveled for about ten minutes before reaching the starting point of our river cruise. Uy was nowhere to be found but we were told that he was already at the Banana Beach, waiting for us.

I thought we would be riding a pump boat but was surprised to know that we would be traveling in a speed boat. At first, two in our group were hesitant but after a while they boarded.

“If you have been to Loboc River in Bohol, this trip is much better and exciting,” said Edwin Lasquite, our tour guide. “The river is wider and more picturesque.”

We traversed two rivers, whose average depth is between fifteen to eighteen feet. The width of the river is about thirty meters.

We started our adventure at the Bincugan River and went all the way to Liboganon River. Both rivers are part of the Tancuan Creek, according to Emiliano P. Dakingking, Jr., a project development officer of the city government.

During our travel, we met Uy riding his jet ski. He asked one of the participants to ride with him. Since I was taking pictures, I begged off. Michael Patron, who just returned from a training in Japan, also turned down the offer since he was also taking photos. A lady professor ended up riding with him.

Although it was hot, we started our tour at around nine in the morning. We weren’t bothered by the heat.

We were all awed by the scenery: mangroves, clean water, fish cages, people fishing, bancas (outriggers). After traveling the 8.7 kilometers of the Bincungan and Liboganon rivers, we were in the open sea.

First you get to see Libunganon Beach, where a lot of people are swimming. Next is the exclusive Banana Beach, followed by Lanikai. Both are inside the 760-hectare banana plantation managed by the Hijo Resources Corporation.

Lanikai takes its name from the Hawaiian word which means “heaven by the sea,” an apt description for a place that is serene, rustic, mesmerizing and enthralling. One writer describes it as a resort “that boasts of a pristine forest, blue waters, rich wildlife, a gateway for a river cruise and a window of the banana industry.”

From Lanikai, we entered another river which is part of the Nabintad Creek of the barangay of Madaum.

The length of the river is only 3.5 kilometers but you will be mesmerized by the century-old mangroves. In one area, you get a glimpse of several mangroves including pagatpat, maynilad, bakauang lalaki and bakauang babae.

We returned to Banana Beach and had a tete-a-tete with Uy. We also had our group photo taken. After casual talks, we bade Uy goodbye as we traveled by car going to the mangrove reforestation area in Liboganon.

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Isabela’s

Abuan River is the

Philippines’ Next Big

Whitewater Destination

“It’s one thing to memorize the history of a church, or even a city, but a river is different,” explains Anton Carag, certified Pinoy rafting Jedi. “If you don’t know how to read her, you’ll be in big trouble.”

Violently churning six seconds away One can climb the cliffs along the Abuan River in Ilagan, Isabela. is either the end of the Earth—or a giant washing machine. I white-knuckle my padfor the Abuan River. dle, shoot him a swift glance and prepare to meet my maker. “Big Isabela’s forests remain the oldest and richest in the country. trouble!” repeats Anton with a chuckle.

From within, it is a verdant vision of plant and animal life, where We plunge, paddle, curse, laugh and paddle even more as we Philippine eagles (Pithecophaga jefferyi) soar and Philippine crococross the swells into calmer waters. In seconds the roaring river diles (Crocodylus mindorensis) skulk. Though still dependent on transforms into a gurgling rivulet of relaxation. The side-scrolling groundwater, pollution might soon force some 130,000 Ilagan famiscenery is glorious to behold, adorned with dramatic cliffs, provocalies to rely on the Abuan watershed for fresh water. Without it, corn tive fire trees and flitting water birds. We are in the country’s next and rice fields may one day be left without irrigation. big rafting destination—Isabela’s Abuan River—and we love every However, the watershed is under threat from small-scale but dripping minute of it. widespread logging, charcoal production and swidden farming. AlTo spare the Sierra Madre’s forests from further deforestation, though illegal, many residents continue with these activities due to the World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF Philippines), Coca-Cola a lack of better livelihood opportunities. The Abuan River has tradiPhilippines and the local government of Ilagan are tapping Isabela’s tionally been a transit point for illicitly-cut logs piloted by bugadores, tourism potential by developing a sustainable eco-tourism program 92

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The Abuan River is being eyed as a whitewater rafting destination.

daredevils who literally ride pre-cut logs to downriver caches.

“Fortunately,” explains Carag, “the skill needed to steer and helm a humongous pile of logs lashed together with rope and sinew is surprisingly similar to rafting.”

Locals who made below PhP70 per day as local guides or porters can now make three times more as accredited guides.

The project aims to spur alternate livelihood opportunities for loggers, charcoal producers and bugadores who have been displaced by tighter public and private sector enforcement over illegal logging.

In June of 2009, combined units of Tanggol Kalikasan, the Armed Forces and the provincial government seized an estimated 300,000 board feet of lumber during a series of raids. The total volume represents close to 100 ten-wheeler truck-loads of timber. Averaged at PhP24 per board foot, the haul is valued at over PhP7 million.

“Many of our stakeholders have been logging the Sierra Madre’s forests for decades and find it hard to switch livelihoods.

If we don’t stop the logging however, then farming communities which depend on the health of the watershed will eventually suffer,” says WWF Philippines Isabela Project manager Luis Caraan.

The system follows equity principles to ensure that money flows directly to local

Along the river, one can discover surprises such as a small cataract

communities.

“River tourism requires pristine scenery, so illegal loggers and charcoal-producers will be pressured to protect and not annihilate remaining forests. Moreover, Isabela’s people are both hard-working and honest, so swapping illegal livelihoods with viable pro-conservation jobs will make many lives both safer and easier,” concludes Caraan.

WWF Philippines, Coca-Cola Philippines and the local government of Ilagan invite both simple nature-trippers and whitewater rafters to meet the Abuan River’s frothy swells, wild waterfalls and gentle people by emailing lcaraan@wwf.org.ph.

Trip activities include trekking, swimming, scaling cliffs and waterfalls, rappelling and of course either rafting or kayaking through Mother Nature’s washing machines. So, douse your fear and grab your gear; your river rendezvous is just an email away!

Contact Information

Sierra Madre forests are being logged for variety of purposes such as making charcoal.

For more information, contact Luis Caraan, Isabela Project manager, WWF Philippines, through mobile number +63 927-6556845 or email lcaraan@wwf. org.ph; or Gregg Yan, information, education and communications officer, WWF Philippines, through mobile number +63920-79232631 or email gyan@ wwf.org.ph.

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Waves of Wonder in Davao City

By Ayo Gunting

W

ith all the technology nowadays, people tend to forget the enjoyment they can experience from nature’s wonders. The Philippines has been blessed with natural riches. We are known for Boracay and Palawan, vacation spots which have been luring tourists from all around the world.

These places are certainly amazing but the country has a lot more places that tourists can visit, Davao City being one of them. It is located in southern Mindanao.

One particular activity that stands out in this place is white water rafting. In this activity, you ride an inflatable raft and navigate your way through a body of water. The difficulty of rafting depends on how rough the water is. It is an exciting activity that gets your adrenaline pumping, taking away your stress and letting you enjoy nature.

One recommended place for such an activity is the Davao Wildwater Adventure. The rafting is being done at the Davao River, starting at Calinan, approximately 45 minutes away from the city proper.

The river guides, committed to safety and high-quality services, are headed by Sonny Dizon, who has traversed and conquered the river many times and has received safety, rescue and life-support

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Davao Wildwater Adventure conducts whitewater rafting along the Davao River.

training from the Philippine Red Cross.

“In Davao, the river is one product,” says Dizon with much passion and enthusiasm. “This product spans 13 kilometres in length with as much as Level 3-plus rapids. It is considered the best river in the Philippines.”

“If everyone can be here just for one day to feel the gentle kiss of cold water that winds down the mountain rocks or feel the mighty river rapids, or simply to take in fresh, cool air, we would realize we are all under Mother Nature’s power and we are not in any way superior. Therefore, we must respect its authority over us, humans,” he continues.

Whether you’re a first-timer or an expert in the sport, you can enjoy this activity. From Level 1, the intensity and challenge rise rapidly going all the way to Level 6. These rapids can rise to an even higher level, depending on the weather and the season.

For Php2,500, you can experience the thrill of white water rafting, something you may have only seen in movies. The fee is inclusive of a tour of the river, transportation from the crocodile farm to Davao River and a modest but tasty lunch served al fresco.

There are many things to look out for in Davao River.

Aside from the trees and undergrowth, there are occasional sightings of animals such as the monitor lizards and birds such as hawks, crows and the balinsasayaw (swifts). The balinsasayaw makes a nest out of its saliva, a prized delicacy in many Asian countries.

For people who have braved Subic’s Tree-drop and Tagaytay’s zip line, here’s another thing that you can add to your list of to-dos.

If thrill is what you seek, then you shall find it here.

Along the Davao River, there is a high rock platform where thrill-seekers can jump into the water.

Davao City is truly filled with nature’s wonders to behold and experience.

Getting There Davao City is 1,545 kilometers from Manila with an international airport. There are several daily flights from Manila and Cebu.

Contact Information Davao Wildwater Adventure office is at the Davao Crocodile Park Compound, Riverfront Corporate City, Diversion Highway, Ma-a, Davao City, with telephone/ fax numbers (+63 82) 221-7823 and (+63 82) 286-1055; mobile phone numbers +63920-9546898, +63922-8569790, +63920-9546897 and +63923-6586048; and e-mail davaowildwater@yahoo.com.

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Sailing At

Subic Bay

By Excel V. Dyquiangco Photos by Donald Tapan

T

he waters of Subic Bay host a number of sporty activities.

Parasailing, yachting, scuba diving, kayaking and canoeing and even fishing are just some offered at the Subic Bay Freeport Zone. But if there is one sport that Subic Bay takes pride in—because of the intricacies involved and not just allout fun—it is sailing using a sailboat powered solely by the wind.

According to Commodore Ricky Sandoval, one of the contenders for this year’s regatta—a series of boat races—sailing using a sailboat is definitely not as easy as it seems, not as easy as using a powerboat in which you can just direct it wherever you want to go.

Steering it involves analysis, precision and accuracy.

“We race using the wind, so it’s really difficult. What if there’s no wind?” he said. “But if there is, we can’t face the wind. We can go thirty degrees off the wind, left or right. So, I personally call this a human chess game because you have to predict where you are going to be five or ten minutes away from where you are right now.”

With this in mind, sailing in the waters off Subic Bay Yacht Club (SBYC) is indeed a challenge, made even more exciting by other sailors competing for recognition.

A Roaring Return

This year’s competition marks SBYC’s return with a renewed spirit. Unlike before, when the marina wasn’t so striking to its members, the SBYC now has prepared a staunch and exhilarating comeback. First, there was the inclusion of whitewater crafts in its show.

Sailing competitions have become glamorous and alluring with races such as the New Year Series, the Subic-Boracay Race or the Boracay Cup Regatta, the Typhoon Series 1, the Commodore’s Cup Regatta and the most recent Independence Day Regatta.

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The Subic Bay Yacht Club

of the theme of rediscovering the Subic Bay Yacht Club and bringing back the vigor and energy it used to have is, of course, sailing,” says Doris Jimenez, member of the board of directors of the Subic Bay Yacht Club. “This year, the Independence Day Regatta marks the return of the committee organizing it again on its own with the support of our avid sailors.”

The two-day event promised to be just as exciting as the previous years. In its fourth year now, the SBYC Regatta aims not only to glorify sailing as a world-class sport but to spread the news that Subic Bay is a world-class venue for water sports and events.

This year’s race had thirteen teams with five members per team. The categories included plateau racing, or the one-design racing, PY racing and IRC racing, so-called because of the different sizes of the ships. This was participated in not only by locals but by foreigners as well.

The SBYC will also be hosting other regattas such as the National Heroes Day Regatta and the Ninoy Aquino Anniversary Day Regatta. It will also be undertaking the restoration of the old walls of SBYC and inviting all members to come and enjoy the facilities just like they did before when they bought their shares. Adventure packages for thrill seekers are being offered, which Include cruising around the SBYC—in a yacht, no less.

Sailing On

Sailing is a sport that is unlike any other.

“While most sports are athletic such as basketball, boxing, badminton, football, swimming, or volleyball, sailing equals strength but not as much,” says Sandoval. “It does require intuition for the win, strategy and just like in the game of chess analysis and precision. How well you balance the boat, what happens when there’s no wind, how you decide on factors regarding accidents are just factors to consider.”

The maneuvers and the team work sailing require seem to take years to master. The different positions in the boat and how to treat the different angles are things to consider.

So how much does sailing cost? The most expensive item, of course, is the boat. For a smaller one, you can buy for as low as PhP20,000 to PhP30,000.

The most expensive reach up to $5 million to $20 million. One also spends for the training of the crew.

Sandoval reiterates that you can’t earn when you take up sailing as a sport.

“It’s more on the trophy and the pride of winning it,” he said. “It’s the bragging rights.”

The fulfillment is in the race itself—the environment, the team work, the chance to ride with the winds and waves.

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Riding the Rapids in Cagayan de Oro

By Gesel Mangilit

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The water gurgled as if in a witch’s cauldron as the surging river tossed us about inside the rubber boat, each of us desperately paddling to fight off the sudden wave that almost ran us smack into a huge rock. We’ve been in the river for almost two hours, shivering in the cold, and each time we hit a rapid—so far, I’ve counted twelve out of the twenty-one promised us—my blood would run cold and then curiously become warm with excitement.

Such is the thrill rafting has brought to many who dare pit their wits and strength against the forces of nature. White water rafting has definitely become a booming enterprise in many parts of the country. Where a river runs, the adventurous would troop to if only to experience the adrenaline rush that comes with manoeuvring through rough waters and experiencing the “flip.” When you think about this recreational sport, what invariably comes to mind is still Cagayan De Oro (CdO), where the sport was born.

Great White Water Tours promises the best equipment and rafting experience, with highly trained guides to ensure safety for even the most inexperienced guest. The tour starts with a brief talk about safety in and out of the river, with a reminder not to swim (swimming is not allowed) against the current and how to hold the paddle properly so as not to injure one’s self or the person sitting beside you. At this point you are encouraged to ask as many questions as you want and you listen and listen hard, as our guide said, once you are in the river, it is to each his own, especially during “the flip.”

“Do not panic when the boat flips. It will happen once or twice during the course of the trip; that is part of the thrill. If you fall into the river, you just go with the flow,” he says with seriousness with just a hint of candour.

Suitably briefed and photographed, our rowdy group made of priests, vacationers from Davao, balikbayans and a few Manilans piled inside the two jeepneys, our rafts and floatation devices strapped to our ride for the one-hour trip to Uguiban Bridge in Talakag, the boundary that separates CdO to Bukidnon. A few moments later, four boats were launched. Each raft had eight people in it with two guides onboard and more posted at the riverside as lookouts while some got our gear and stashed it inside waterproof bags. Four guides bearing our cameras for the much anticipated picture-taking hopped on two boats and went on ahead to

Water being my zodiac element has made me favour water sports over aerial pursuits, but then part of the Great White Water Tours experience is white water rafting in the morning in CdO and then the zipline in Bukidnon after lunch—just the kind of stuff adventure seekers would hanker for.

This is precisely what owner Elpie Paras had in mind when he started building the ZipZone in Dahilayan Adventure Park in Bukidnon.

“We wanted to offer guests a total adventure package—an adventure by water, land and air,” he says.

For those availing of the package, it would mean three hours in the river, a midday feast of barbecued chicken, kinilaw and more to refuel and prepare for the rigors of the next trip: an hour of zigzagging ride from the highway linking CdO to Bukidnon and finally zip-lining in Mount Kitanglad for the rest of the afternoon.

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take pictures of us in action.

How wet and wild you want the ride to be will also depend on you because you can request for more flips if you prefer, which I later found out, is a difficult thing to do, judging by the way our two guides would tilt the raft to make us flip, catching us unawares.

During the brief lull, where the river became silent and deep as the guides said, “‘Pag tahimik ang tubig, nasa malalim na parte tayo,” we would stare in awe at the limestone caves, the interesting rock formations and the gnarled trees, adding a mystical air to the natural beauty of the Cagayan River. Water skippers would run across the surface and fishes would swim right past us. We espied wild orchids growing on mountainsides, its flowers having the most fascinating colors. We were at the gorge that separates Cagayan de Oro from Bukidnon, and one cannot help but marvel at and be one with nature, something city dwellers like us hardly ever feel back in Manila.

Although we did give our level best, splashing and thrashing in the rolling waters of the extreme rollercoaster ride for three hours, we longed for the creature comforts of the hotel and a soothing massage to ease our tired and aching muscles. This much I could tell, after twelve kilometres of the wild-river ride and four hours in wet clothes. Nothing can be more rewarding than a hot stone massage at the Ban Sabai Spa. Owned and operated by Rina Paras, the Ban Sabai Spa is a haven for the overworked body and for those seeking a few hours of peace and relaxation. It is located at the heart of downtown Cagayan de Oro, where we also did some nighttime explorations, starting with their own Divisoria. Theirs however, in not only a place for shopping as there are souvenir shops, food stalls and clothing stores in what they used to call City of Golden Friendship Park. A street party is also happening on Friday and Saturday nights until the wee hours of the morning.

There is plenty of action in Cagayan de Oro, a very progressive city which in a few years is headed in the direction of Cebu and Davao. Think tracts of land being developed by Xavier Estates and El Pueblo, two of the largest developers in CdO, hotels being built as the city has become a favorite for conventions, a number of reputable schools, four of them big universities with an additional agricultural college being built, a booming call center industry within an 102

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IT complex and a big airport. We even saw a BMW showroom set to open in a month while on our way to the airport.

But even with the seemingly fast-paced growth of CdO, it is still nature that holds sway for most of its visitors who come to CdO for the one-of-a-kind water rafting experience. In my case, my first white water rafting and zip line experience brought out the adventurer in me. And that started on the very day I set foot in Cagayan de Oro City.

ACCOMMODATIONS

Antel Spa Suite’s 64 studio suites, 48 deluxe suites, 22 two-bedroom suites and 10 three-bedroom family suites make for a comfortable and luxurious stay

The grand lobby with its pocket gardens, mini fountains and an asymmetrical chandelier as focal point reinforces the hotel’s tranquil Zen appeal

Best Western Antel Spa Suites: A Makati Urbanite’s Tranquil Escape

By Gesel P. Mangilit • Photos by Donald Tapan

T

here are not that many places in the metropolis where you can totally de-stress and find yourself totally “away from it all.” Makati, being a business and shopping hub, is an unlikely place for such activity.

It is therefore surprising to find a hotel right in the heart of this bustling city that provides all the creature comforts, a luxurious and comfortable stay, and a soothing Zen ambiance conducive for some serious relaxation.

These were my thoughts during an overnight stay at the Antel Spa Suites one busy weekend. The spanking new hotel right across A.Venue Hall, recently accredited by the Best Western chain of hotels, is a haven for those seeking respite from the daily grind of urban living.

Standing beside the busier and well-known A.Venue Suites, its sister hotel, the Antel Spa Suites is a stark contrast with its spacious, minimalist interior. Pocket gardens of bamboo and horsetail set against the cream, textured walls catch the eyes, inviting to survey the length of the warmly-lit interiors punctuated by an asymmetrical chandelier that seemingly undulates as light bounces off its mirror edges, casting prisms of light on the black-and-cream marbled floors and column walls.

The emphasis of course is on relaxation, which can be noticed everywhere—from the tinkling of the mini fountains down to the very attentive and unobtrusive staff which would now and then ask if I needed any assistance with my belongings or with parking.

Glassed in from all the noise and din of the outside, I sat on one of

Start the day with a hearty meal at the Azzuro, which serves a sumptuous spread day and night

the lounge chairs and imbibed the peaceful vibe.

A wonderful feature of the hotel, apart from the well-appointed rooms, is its in-house spa, occupying the entire fourth floor. While the hotel caters to business travelers, being five minutes away from Makati ’s financial district, it also caters to women who want a brief respite and to indulge in a relaxing weekend of spa treatments. The Toccare Spa, an oasis for the tired and weary, is intimate, not so commercialized like many spas around, ensuring guests utmost privacy.

Toccare is an Italian word for “touch” or “to touch”. Here, you can unwind with the help of their signature massages, body wraps, hot stone treatments, body scrubs and facials, all done within themed treatment rooms with names derived from precious minerals such as jade, rose quartz, citrine, black onyx and amethyst.

After a day of exploring the city, there is nothing more gratifying than wallowing in complete privacy and giving your body some deluxe attention, all carried out by the friendly staff in an atmosphere of Zen-like calm.

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Lie back in the sky infinity pool on the 31st floor and enjoy a breathtaking view of the Makati skyline at dusk

After the speedy check-in, I was ushered into what would be my home for the entire weekend, a spacious one-bedroom suite with a kitchenette and dining area, a well-stocked mini ref and mini bar, flatscreen television, private safety deposit box and what most of us cannot live without even for a half a day, uninterrupted WiFi access. Designed with modern Asian touches, the room looked inviting and cozy. All 144 rooms of the hotel are cocoons of comfort with neutrals colors dominating— light wood, crisp white and sandy tones—all in keeping with the hotel’s Zen ambiance. The more affordable, value-for-money studiotype rooms also have the luxuries of the one-bedroom suites while the two-bedroom family suites have the added features of convertible sofa beds and island kitchen countertops, which are great for cookouts and entertaining. Each room in the chic two-bedroom suite has its own bathroom and flat-screen television, perfect for a family on vacation.

Part of the appeal of staying at the Antel Spa Suites is that guests also have access to A.Venue Suites’ amenities such as the spa and lap and kiddie pool. However, if you need some peace and quiet, there is no better place to relax than right at hotel’s sky infinity pool on the 31st floor, where you can enjoy a breathtaking view of the Makati skyline.

It is the sort of place where you can spend your vacation without leaving its confines. Although the hotel’s location offers excellent dining and entertainment options as it sits right smack in Makati ’s throbbing night strip along A.Venue, you don’t even need to venture out at all. The Azzuro, a full service restaurant-bar serving Mediterranean and Western fare at the next-door A.Venue Suites, serves delightful meals within its tastefully designed space.

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which will open sometime in June,” says hotel manager Yvonne Villacorte.

The Serenity Tower, being built right next to the Antel Spa Suites, is a condotel that will feature a grand ballroom, an infinity pool and resort-style pool, a power gym and themed restaurants located within its premises. Set to open in March 2012, the hotel’s pool will be directly accessible from the sixth floor of the Antel Spa Suites through a walkway bridge.

Later that evening, I ventured out for a little stroll down A.Venue, all lit and throbbing with nightlife, with young urbanites capping the week with a few drinks at the bar. The A.Venue Hall was hosting an event for a well-known credit card company, and traffic was typical on a weekend night—moderate to heavy. I met some friends who were out enjoying dinner at one of the restaurants and after an hour made my way back to the safety and tranquility of my one-bedroom suite.

In a world of endless deadlines and stressful living, it’s really the simple things—such as the promise of a deep and restful sleep, tucked beneath the sheets of a warm, cozy bed—that count the most.

Contact Information Antel Spa Suites is a 15-minute cab ride from the Ninoy Aquino International Airport. Hotel transfers are available upon request through reservation/booking office. The hotel, located at 7829 Makati Avenue, Makati City, may be reached through telephone number (+63 2) 403-0808 and fax (+632) 403-7572. For reservations, call (+63 2) 403-7576 or email at enquiry@antelsuites.com.

Glitz and Ritz

The Ritz Hotel at The Garden Oases

in

Mindanao

By Raymund Magno Garlítos • Photos by Fe Marcelino

D

avao City, the country’s second largest city in terms of land area, is fast becoming a hub of activity and industry in southern Mindanao. Whether as a venue for conferences, events or rest and relaxation, it is a city that has much to offer its visitors. Its lineup of must-visit sites are plenty, and there are a lot of accommodations that are at par with those of Metro Manila up north, whether satisfying the businessman with fine taste or the practical traveler out for a bargain deal. If the latter is the case, then the small but unassuming Ritz Hotel in Davao City is one of the places where you can truly experience putting on the ritz, so to speak, minus the exorbitant prices expected of a typical luxury hotel.

Built by Davao businessman Jefferson Tan, the Ritz Hotel at the Garden Oases is the perfect rest and relaxation place for the business and leisure traveler. Located in the quieter but commercial district of Obrero in Davao City, it is a twenty-minute drive from Davao International Airport and just walking distance to the city’s shopping and recreational centers. A partner of the Quantum Hotels and Resorts network, it has eighty newly constructed rooms and suites designed with perfect harmony of business and pleasure in mind.

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The Ritz Hotel at the Garden Oases offers well-appointed accommodations for the leisure and business travelers in Davao City. Its restaurant offers a wide array of delectable dishes.

The Perfect Venue for All Occasions

The five-storey structure also offers views of the city and the hotel complex, which also houses the Garden Oases Convention Center, one of Davao City’s most sought-after events and conference venues this side of Mindanao. There also function rooms that can accommodate a small group for seminars and private meetings. The main function hall can house an estimated 1,200 guests as a whole and can be subdivided into five smaller meeting rooms. Aside from large-scale conferences, it also serves as a concert venue to both local (Davaobased) acts and visiting performers.

The hotel’s Neo-Asian architecture is further enhanced by the presence of tall palm trees, the largest and most prominent of which is located near the hotel’s swimming pool and basketball court. A garden facing the convention center is also a popular venue for garden weddings, birthday Volume 7 Number 3, 2011 EXPERIENCE Travel and Living |

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parties and outdoor occasions either grand or intimate.

Amenities Par Excellence

The Garden Oases Restaurant, one of the city’s most noted restaurants, also serves as the hotel’s dining venue and caterer for the conventions held there. Stewarded by chef Rexon Pacao, the restaurant serves delectable Asian (Chinese, Japanese and Korean), Filipino, Continental and fusion cuisine either buffet or a la carte style.

The Ritz Café located at the lobby of the hotel serves sumptuous desserts and coffee. The simple yet elegant hotel lobby offers WiFi access so one can enjoy his cake and coffee while surfing the Internet on one’s laptop or iPad, or reading the various local and foreign magazines found on the coffee table.

The harried traveler can also avail of a body and mind-revitalizing massage at the hotel’s Zhi Ya Spa located at the entrance of the hotel after a day of spending your time in the city either for work or pleasure. One can also take a relaxing plunge at the refreshing waters of the hotel’s swimming pool or play at the basketball court or mini-golf course.

Rooms for Relaxation

The hotel’s 88 accommodations all offer magnificent views of the Davao City suburbs, while offering guests an unforgettable intimate experience. Individual business travelers, couples on their

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All rooms have access cards that double as energy cards, which help avoid unnecessary usage of electricity whenever the guests are outside the hotel rooms. They also encourage guests to do ecologically-viable practices like in the use of towels, bed sheets and other aspects of room service.

Service with a Smile

honeymoon, or families on vacation will find the room’s spaces perfect venues to relax or celebrate love and family bonding. Never too ostentatious in interiors and furniture, the rooms are done modern style, and they can choose from the standard, superior and deluxe rooms to superior deluxe, grand deluxe and the premier Oases Suite.

The air-conditioned rooms are all equipped with cable-ready 32-inch LCD TVs facing large beds and outlined by soft-tone lights by the headboard. The beds, with soft plush sheets and fluffy pillows, are intimate cocoons for the tired soul. The spacious bathrooms in some of the larger suites are equipped with bath tubs and also carry various toiletries and thick towels. Some of the rooms also have modern Jacuzzis that have lighting mechanisms, bringing the bath experience to a whole new level.

Perhaps the trademark of the Ritz Hotel is the signature smiles of its hotel attendants and reception staff. Never have I encountered a staff so sincerely helpful in accommodating guests’ needs, sometimes even to the guests who have eccentric requests and seemingly impossible demands. This unique brand of hospitality, with its quiet demeanor and prompt response to the needs of its visitors, is a rare and priceless commodity nowadays.

Despite the swanky name, the Ritz Hotel at Garden Oases is a cozy sanctuary, with its excellent accommodations and amenities, and is at par with some of this southern city’s major hotels and resorts, a refreshing alternative in the concrete desert that is slowly transforming Davao City into a global metropolis.

Contact Information The Ritz Hotel at Garden Oases is located at Porras Street, Obrero, Davao City, with telephone number (+63 82) 224-1402 and Web site www.theritzhoteldavao.com.

It is a partner-hotel of the Quantum Hotels and Resorts.

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ENDEAVOR

Energy to the Youth: EDC Lets Students Experience the Summer of Their Lives Text and Photos by Roel Hoang Manipon

P

The Southern Negros Geothermal Production Field of the Energy Development Corporation in Valencia supplies power to many parts of Negros and neighboring islands. Near this site the geothermal company annually holds a summer camp for children of the communities where it has plants.

eals of laughter and shouts bounced off the trees, echoing through the ravines and valleys of the upland sitio of Ticala in Caidiocan, Valencia, 21 kilometers west of Negros Oriental’s capital Dumaguete City. They did not disturb the moths, amazing in its variety, that thrive in the still forested and bucolic area in southeastern Negros Island, where Cuernos de Negros mountains dominate the horizon.

Clad in bright orange, fourteen- and fifteen-year-old students were cheerily competing in an Amazing Race-type race. Grouped into six teams with amusing names—Amazing Jaguars, Orange Stallions, Nightingales, etc.—forty-eight teenagers had to make twelve pit stops where they had to tackle challenges, putting to test the survival training—such as orienteering and basic map reading, basic mountaineering, basic rope techniques and rappelling—they were taught the previous days. Almost everyone’s favorite was the Slide 114 |

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for Life, a short zip line. The V bridge, made entirely of ropes with a single big one to walk on, made many quiver.

A few meters from the campsite, there is a view deck, which affords a panoramic view of the Southern Negros Geothermal Production Field (SNGPF) which constantly releases billows of steam like clouds that float among the jagged and verdant mountains then dissipate into the air. Somewhere, streams are gurgling through forests and villages. One stream has a high iron content that made the rocks and pebbles red in a barangay called Pulangbato.

The race was the culminating activity before graduation at the Energy Camp or E-Camp of the Energy Development Corporation (EDC), the Philippines’ leading geothermal energy company.

Melanie Vineles, 15, and Jeffrey Naceg, 14, of Balugo National High School had heard many good things about E-Camp and said they were happy being part of this year’s summer youth camp. Chil-

Naturally occurring steam is harnessed to produce power.

The barracks of the EDC Energy Camp

dren of farmers in Valencia, they counted discipline and being independent as the important things they learned, and the Slide for Life zip line and wall climbing as their memorable activities.

From the other side of the island, Lara Felisa Concepcion, 14, from Ramon Torres Louisiana National High School in Bago City, Negros Occidental, was equally delighted to be part of the camp.

Being the associate editor of Filipino of their school paper Pagbubukang-liwayway, she said she did not get homesick because she had been away before—for a school publication conference—but the first thing she said she will do upon getting home is to hug her parents, a utility man and a canteen worker at the school she is attending.

From the same province, Nadia T. Repoyla of Minoyan National High School in Murcia, echoed the sentiments of the batch in a testament she delivered at the graduation rite: “I and my fellow campers had truly experienced the enjoyment that we haven’t felt before.

We enjoyed all the activities we’ve done. And all of these made a very big impact in ourselves. It developed our socialization [skills] as teenagers. [The camp] aided us on how to improve our skills with the many different activities such as dancing and the sports activities. I had also experienced being tired, and sometimes [there were] ‘lifeless’ moments due to lack of communication with my family and friends, but still the enjoyment and excitement were there.”

Every year, the EDC hold summer camps in its five geothermal project sites in Leyte, Negros, Albay-Sorsogon and North Cotabato for the scholars it is supporting in these communities and some of the employees’ children, all incoming fourth-year high school students. Before, there were two separate camps for the Northern Negros Geothermal Production Field (NNGPF) in Negros Occidental and the SNGPF in Valencia, Negros Oriental. Of recent, one camp is being held for both sites.

This year, the E-Camp, which happened from April 12 to 18, has forty-eight scholars—twenty-four scholars and eight children of EDC employees of SNGPF and sixteen from NNGPF. The SNGPF participants came from Pulangbato National High School, Balugo National High School, Valencia National High School and San Pedro Academy Recoletos, all in Valencia, while the NNGPF participants were from Lopez Jaena National High School in Minoyan, Murcia; and Ramon Torres Louisiana National High School in Bago City.

The E-Camp is part of the corporate social responsibility programs of EDC, which has projects in three main areas—environment, education and livelihood—mostly for Volume 7 Number 3, 2011 EXPERIENCE Travel and Living |

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The participants of the E Camp engage in an Amazing Race-type race, the culminating activity, putting into use what they have learned

the benefit of the communities around its sites.

EDC’s projects in education include scholarships, a technicalvocational school in Leyte and the E-Camp, a brainchild and pet project of former EDC president and chief executive officer Paul A. Aquino.

“We envision a program where teenagers can learn as they all have fun. Campers are asked to do simple daily tasks such as fixing their own bed, preparing breakfast, even washing their own clothes and dishes—skills that they will find useful in life. All these we hope that they will pass on to others when they go back to their families and communities,” he explained.

The seven days of the camp are packed full of activities and lectures. There are outdoor activities such as hiking, rappelling, dancing, basic martial arts and survival training. They are taught personal hygiene, fine dining and table etiquette and personality development. They are also taught the importance and benefits of 116 |

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geothermal energy as well as enabled to do their share in conserving the environment through tree-planting activities and making compost pits. They also get the chance to learn livelihood skills such as making beaded accessories with the help of SNGPF’s Community Partnerships team.

They also learn to get along with different people. The group from the two provinces, each with its own languages—Hiligaynon in Occidental and Cebuano in Oriental—are made to intermingle and interact through the many activities. The participants had difficulty understanding each other and used Filipino to communicate, but they got along fine, forging friendships along the way.

Aquino said that the E-Camp was born because of the threat of the leftist rebel group New People’s Army (NPA), which is present in most of the EDC sites. The camp aimed to lure kids away from being recruited or indoctrinated by the NPA. Aquino related that the E-Camp started in 2004 in Valencia with

The zip line, called Slide for Life, is almost everybody’s favorite activity.

children of employees to find out how to do a summer camp. The following year, it was conducted in other sites and with children from the communities.

“In the first three summer camps, I was very hands-on. I wanted to make sure there were no idle moments. There cannot be an idle moment. Masisira ang summer camp ‘pag may idle moment,” Aquino said. “Maraming lecture time just to make sure there were no idle moments. Then there were sports and physical activities.”

He further said: “The camps have metamorphosed into other things and have become one of our signature corporate social responsibility programs now…It has become a community thing for us already.”

He has gone to most of the camps and said that most of them were very successful. He remembered: “The most successful camp we have was the one in Bicol after typhoon Reming, participated in by students from the whole of Albay and Sorsogon. We gathered all the potential valedictorians and salutatorians. They spoke English well and were all cooperative.”

Reming devastated the Bicol Region in November 2006. The following year EDC decided to open the Bacon-Manito E-Camp to students in the whole of Albay and Sorsogon.

On the other hand, “the least successful are those with parents who forced their kids to attend the camp…Not all kids are into camps. One kid like that can destroy a camp,” Aquino said.

The E-Camp is managed by the company’s Emergency Response Team (ERT), composed of volunteers from different departments of the company. This year, an ERT member, Julius Teves, who works at the SNGPF’s human resources office, is the camp commander for Valencia. Though involved in other aspects of camp operations in previous years, it was his first time to be camp commander.

With the help of the local Barangay Emergency Response Team

(BERT), the volunteers from the ERT set up some of the facilities of the camp and ready it for the campers. Before the camp, the present site was once a parking lot. Now, there is a bungalow with 48 beds and toilets for the campers. The ERT team also mans the facilities to be used by the campers.

Since the work for the camp is voluntary, Teves said that it is getting harder for them to get volunteers because their schedule won’t allow them to leave work for a week. They don’t receive extra pay. He was not able to go home in the duration of the camp because he felt responsible to the kids.

“I act as their mother and father at the same time,” he added.

“Kasi wala silang choice eh. Ako lang nandito. They are not allowed to contact their parents. Their valuables and cell phones are confiscated before the camp.”

Despite the sacrifices, seeing the impact of the camp on the students was worth it.

“I think ang pinaka-goal ng camp is to be independent,” Teves said. “They are taught to wash their own clothes, to wake up early, to be independent, disciplined, and also they have fun with fellows.

What’s nice about it is that during the first two days nagkakailangan ‘yan. Medyo kasi nahihiya…Eventually, especially when we are near closing, they feel close to each other.”

At graduation, many would be crying.

“The success of the camp is gauged by the amount of tears shed during graduation,” Aquino said, who have attended many camp graduations. Like a ninong, he would banter with the campers, play games and award money to those who correctly answered his quizzes. He would inquire about the students’ crushes.

Aquino has just retired on August 2010 and is now an advisor to the company. This year’s graduation was his last. He wants to enjoy his grandchildren, he said. He is already doing that. In a sense, the happy campers have become his grandchildren.

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Coral Farms started as a backyard hobby that turned into a piggery and poultry business. Two years later, they started farming crocodiles

A Visit to the Philippines’ First Crocodile Abattoir at

Coral Agri-Venture Farm Text and Photos by Gesel Mangilit “It is a disservice to the crocodile when they relate it to human’s greedy behaviour because they only feed twice a week. Crocs are cold-blooded animals hence they have slow metabolism,” said Benedict Solco.

It was raining heavily in Manila that day, and we were on our way to Morong, Rizal, to see Coral Agri-Venture Farm, a crocodile farm that first started out as a piggery and poultry business in 1990.

The trip came at the heels of reports that a 13.7-foot crocodile was caught in Palawan and is suspected of killing a farmer last month, which prompted me to ask how safe the farm is.

“Since the farm started, no accidents have happened in the facility, only minor scratches and bites from baby crocs.

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purpose,” says Solco.

Most are unaware of the link between crocodile conservation and crocodile farming. Conserving depleted populations of large and dangerous predators like crocodiles is difficult worldwide because if it becomes successful after they have been let loose in the wild, there are more and more predators, potentially killing or injuring people. The solution to that is farming.

Coral Agri-Venture Farm Inc. has a direct link to the called Palawan Wildlife Rescue and Conservation Center (PWRCC) where they sourced their crocodiles when they began farming in 2000. Two kinds of crocodiles are being conserved in Palawan, the saltwater crocodile (Crocodylus porosus) and the Philippine crocodile (Crocodylus mindorensis). The latter is considered an endangered species. They farm only the saltwater crocodile. Benedict added that the PWRCC, being a research facility, does not cull or harvest their crocodiles so restaurants in Palawan

get the meat from Coral Farm.

“Before, the crocodiles are only bred for their skin, but here in Coral Agri-Venture Farm , we found commercial use for the meat, which is sold raw or processed. It even comes as a surprise to most that we have our own fully-functioning crocodile abattoir, a first in the country,” said Solco.

There are only eight crocodile farms operating in the country, and only Coral Agri-Venture Farm Inc. has its own abattoir.

The abattoir took two years to build because they had to comply with the various requirements set by the National Meat Inspection Services (NIMS). They invited Australians to help them set up the farm until it was fully operational. Now it houses more than 15,000 crocodiles, placed in batches, ready to be culled when they mature. They have ten breeding pens, a grassy and muddy lot, each measuring 1,000 square meters, where the breeders—some of the largest crocs I had ever seen—are left to roam in the open. They hide beneath the cogon grass and under the mud, and according to Brian Sibongga, farm operations head and a graduate of animal husbandry from the University of Southern Mindanao, only three trained personnel are allowed inside the pens to harvest the eggs. They place a ladder on the concrete perimeter fence (which reached to my shoulders) when they go inside the pen.

“Despite their appearance of being slow, crocodiles are top predators in their environment. On land, they seem to be immobile but they are very alert; anything that comes within biting distance is easily snatched up. They are even faster when they are in the water, where they copulate.

They make mounds of mud and plants where they lay their eggs, which take three months to incubate. We feed them dressed chickens twice a week,” said Sibongga.

When the eggs hatch, they are placed in grower pens, 100-square meter enclosures that can hold up to 150 baby crocs until they are two years old or more. Crocodile embryos do not have sex chromosomes. Sex One of the breeders hidden among the shrubs

is determined by temperature, with males produced at around 31.6 °C and females produced at slightly lower and higher temperatures. By the age of four, they are ready to be culled and are then transferred to isolation pens or finishing pens.

“The processing age is determined by the size of the animals in relation to the width of the belly skin. Six months before slaughter we place them in isolation pens to allow any cuts on the skin to heal. The quality of the skin is very important. We feed them culled chickens from our poultry farm.Currently, we have 600 isolation pens measuring two-by-three meters and are building more. By the time we’re done, we will have 2,000 isolation pens,” shared Sibongga.

We entered a building that houses the fully air-conditioned abattoir. It was very clean and sanitized and designed in such a way that the animal goes through the process— from slaughter to skinning and meat extraction—in the least time possible, ensuring zero contamination of the meat.

Brian explained to me how the crocs are processed. The crocodile is stunned and taken out of the isolation pen, and placed on a rectangular concrete block. The spinal cord is severed for a painless death. The neck is severed as well and the carcass is hung by its belly on a rod for thirty minutes to let the fluids drip. After that, the whole carcass is submerged in chlorine solution for one hour to disinfect. The carcass is then hauled off to a steel processing table where it is skinned. The skin is then taken to a separate room for treatment or tanning while the carcass is deboned and cut into serving pieces, soaked in brine solution, vacuum-packed and put in cold storage at -18 to 22 °C. It’s a simple process, he said, but the time element and the cool environment in which it is done are very important so as not to compromise quality and avoid contamination. Right now, slaughter operations happen every fourth quarter of the year, the time when the crocs mature.

Eight crocs are slaughtered simultaneously in batches of four to five, deBaby crocs at two years old in grower pens

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The farm currently has 600 finishing pens or isolation pens, where crocs are placed six months before being culled (left). The farm’s fully-airconditioned abattoir (below, left)

They also partnered with Hero, which helped develop a product line for their crocodile meat, processing them into Hungarian sausages and hotdogs under the label Dundee. Surprisingly, there are crocodile meat sisig and crocodile meat Bicol Express as well, in 180-milligram packs.

“It’s ready to eat, just pop it in the microwave oven,” Benedict said.

The products are sold in kiosk-type outlets in Manila, some in Nueve Cafe in Wilcon Builders’ Depot outlets, their sister company. Branches of Dundee Sandwiches are located at Eastwood, Sky Garden, Mall of Asia, SM Sta. Mesa, SM Manila, Glorietta 4, Greenhills, among others.

Benedict got me some of their sausages, and they really tasted good.

I served it and never told my housemates they were made of croc meat.

The Bicol Express is very fragrant and flavored just right.

“The taste of croc meat is a cross between chicken and crab, and it is the leanest white meat but you have to know how to cook it or it comes out tough,” said Benedict.

He shared with us the Chinese herbal croc soup recipe. “It’s tasty and filling. Next time you feel like you’re coming down with the flu, you might want to try it,” he said.

pending on the clients’ demand. It is a small operation, manned by 15 personnel, but the Coral Agri-Venture Farm expects to increase production in the coming months.

“We have international buyers who have been waiting for the skins.

Most of the skins will go to Japan, Hong Kong and Singapore, and the meat we produce will be sold locally. The target is to cull 2,000 crocs by next year, which will yield 20 tons of croc meat,” he said.

Four-year-old crocodile skins that measure two meters long can fetch US$300 in the market which, after being treated and made into leather, is then made into goods such as wallets, briefcases, purses, handbags, belts, hats and shoes. Croc meat (cuts of meat include back strap and tail fillet) is sold by the kilo (a kilo of croc meat sells for Php500) or in 250-gram packs.

Solco said Filipinos are not very adventurous when it comes to food, and crocodile meat is considered a delicacy. There are however a number of specialty restaurants which order croc meat from them, among them Azzurro Bistro and Resto at A. Venue Hotel Makati. During an interview with its very amiable chef, John Philipp Golding, he talked about their menu and how they introduce game meats like ostrich, wild duck and crocodile, pairing them with wine on BYOB (Bring Your Own Bottle) Nights once a month. He promptly introduced me to Solco over the phone.

“We also supply a few restaurants in Palawan, including Kinabutch which also serves this delicacy, kilawin-style mangrove worms. We also supply Chinese restaurants in Manila like Golden Fortune Restaurant in Binondo, China Palace in Malate, among others. Recently, we found a recipe for an herb croc soup over the Internet which we kitchen-tested and actually came out good. The Chinese herb we sourced from Binondo market selling for Php60 a pack,” Benedict shared.

Crocodile meat is reputedly an aphrodisiac, I said, to which Benedict said, “It probably is, but this much I can say, crocodile meat is lean and fat-free, high in protein, and according to Chinese traditional medicine, it’s a natural cure for asthma, colds and even cancer.”

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Contact Information Coral Agri-Venture Farm Inc. is located at the sitio of Pantay Buhangin, Theresa, Morong, Rizal, with telephone numbers (02) 634-8387 loc 1675 and mobile numbers (0917) 577-7973 (0922) 823-2173. Check out their Web site www.coralfarms.com.ph.

DINING

Medley of Flavors at the

7th Note Cafe

By Gesel Mangilit

Chef Vanida “Yoshi” Ramos

A

new dining haunt just sprung up in the beautiful white-sand beach of Boracay, an answer for those craving for a private dining experience with an outstanding menu and impeccable service. Run by Fuego Hotels, 7Stones Boracay Suites is a condotel-type accommodation offering one-, two- and three-bedroom units luxuriously designed with modern amenities.

Michel Therrien, the original founder and owner of a piece of the land that the boutique hotel sits on today, had always wanted to live in Boracay. From the date of purchase in 1998 to the completion of the dream in 2009, Therrien, joined by his wife Jane Rossignol and partners Mark Rudnicki, Marco Biggiogero and Marco Manzoni created what Jean Jugo, food and beverage manager, describes as a home away from home, where one can enjoy a luxurious stay in well-appointed rooms with 21-square-meter balconies that overlook the sea and the fantastic sunrise. Added amenities of a 25-square meter lagoon-style swimming pool and in-room specialty cooking provided by an internationally trained staff give it an edge over the other hotels in the area.

Why 7Stones? “The number seven,” explained Jane Rossignol, “is a lucky number throughout the world. The Inukshuk featured in our logo and throughout our resort is a Canadian Indian symbol created by an Eskimo tribe. It is a small person statue made of stones, which points in the direction back to home. This is the experience of 7Stones Boracay, a home away from home that offers a peaceful, safe, clean environment.”

Two years into the operation and already its 7th Note Cafe, a 50-seater al fresco cafe, is earning raves for its medley of international and local cuisine.

I had the impression I was meeting a Japanese chef the day I was to interview the sous chef of 7th Note Cafe and was mildly surprised when an assuming lady with a pleasant demeanour greeted me. Vanida Ramos has been with the 7th Note Cafe for close to a year, and

Baked red snapper in risotto rice

Garlic pesto prawns pasta The restaurant of 7Stones Boracay Suites, 7th Note Cafe, offers local and international cuisines that set it apart from the numerous dining options in Boracay Island

according to her, she enjoys the job immensely. The Polytechnic University of the Philippines chemistry graduate briefly practiced her profession, but the passion for cooking and food pushed her to enroll at the Center for Asian and Culinary Studies. Stints as head chef of all branches of Big City restaurants in Metro Manila and Microtel, a chain of hotels in Manila, and landing a job at the Norwegian Cruise Lines (NCL), traveling for two years, gave her the best experiences she could ever hope for. Training under the exacting standards of a European-run kitchen provided her with the skills she needed to cater to the mostly foreign clientele of 7th Note Cafe.

Yoshi, as she is fondly called, was so named by her grandfather who teaches Japanese language. Yoshi, she shared, means “good.” However, judging by the humble chef’s recent accomplishments, she aims not to be just good but the best in her field. She recently won for 7th Note Cafe the Seafood Challenge and the Fried Rice Challenge (second place) at the Sabor Bisaya Culinary Competition held in Bacolod in July 16. Yoshi, who counts chefs Daniel Boulud and Gordon Ramsay as her idols, is planning to join more competitions in the coming months, in her commitment to further hone her skills.

Together with internationally recognized Canadian chef Spencer Anderson, Yoshi conceptualized a menu for 7th Note Cafe that has lured in foreigners and Filipinos to a serving or two of reasonably priced dishes that cater to the discriminating international taste. The Scotch tenderloin and the pork adobo pasta, a surprising twist to the time-tested Filipino comfort food, are among the cafe’s bestsellers but the dish that’s been constantly making raves is the garlic pesto prawns pasta. Yoshi particularly remembers a Vietnamese guest who would come back now and then and ask about the dish because he plans to open his own cafe in Boracay.

“Chef Norbert Gandler of the International School for Culinary Arts and Hotel Management (ISCAHM) was once at the cafe and gave favorable reviews on this particular dish,” Yoshi shared.

All the entrees in the menu, she added, have vegetarian options.

The rustic beachfront cafe, originally meant to be the location for a spa, is telling of the cafe’s promise to serve only the freshest ingredients. A must-try on their menu is the black shrimp tempura, one of cafe originals, served with traditional Spanish aioli dressing.

“Everything is prepared a la minute. We have our own garden of fresh herbs, and we make our own bread, pastries and desserts. Our homemade ice cream and yogurt are one of the best in the island,” Yoshi beamed.

The party atmosphere of Boracay is in stark contrast to the dining atmosphere you find at the 7th Note Cafe. Located at Bulabog, the quieter side of the island, the cafe is a perfect place to enjoy a romantic dinner under the starlit sky.

“Come to 7th Note if you want to be in a place where you can relax and take pleasure while listening to jazz and blues music and enjoying good food,” said Yoshi.

Under the glowing full moon, the cafe holds Filipino Night, Pirate Night and other themed nights as regular monthly events.

“This year, our focus is on providing a very special taste experience. We will offer food events from around the world with a different country featured each month. We are also developing a true wine experience. We will be offering wine tasting events, unique wine pairing and the opportunity to join our newly forming wine club,” said Jugo.

Vegetable Napoleon

Fish fillets and fries

7Sstones Burger

Longganisa pizza

Contact Information 7th Note Café and 7Stones Boracay Suites is located at Bulabog Beach, Balabag, Boracay Island, Malay, Aklan, and managed by Fuego Hotels and Properties. For reservations, email reservations@7stonesboracay.com or visit www.7stonesboracay.com or www.fuegohotels.com.

Mussels Marnier

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SHOPPING

Eco-friendly Fashion n these environmentally-challenging times, we become truly beautiful when we are positively driven. Island Girl, a brand of resort wear and accessories based in Boracay, lends its share in the greening of fashion by using only naturally sourced materials and crafting them into artful accesso-

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ries and beachwear. The store, which showcases eco-friendly products expertly hand-worked by rural communities in Cebu, recently opened a retail outlet at the Island City Mall in Tagbilaran, Bohol.

Owner Rachel Uy Chua shares with us the inspiration behind the brand.

How did Island Girl start, and how did it grow to what it is now?

We have been exporting fashion jewelry all over the world for close to 25 years now, and our line was always just fashion accessories—necklaces, bracelets, earrings made from natural materials like wood, shells, coconut, plant fibers and seeds. Then in 2002, my mother had the idea to take what we know from fashion accessories and put them on sandals. We thought we needed a brand that could encapsulate both our natural line of fashion accessories and sandals in one, and after several months of brainstorming Island Girl was born. It was a stroke of pure luck that while vacationing in Boracay we learned that D’Mall, Boracay will be expanding their existing property to include more shops. We jumped at the opportunity to put up our first Island Girl shop there because Bora is the perfect place to showcase our line of resort fashion accessories and sandals.

Where do you source your materials, and who designs and crafts the accessories?

All our materials are sourced locally, mainly from Cebu, its neighboring provinces, as well some areas of Luzon and Mindanao, and we make it a point to highlight the natural element in every single product. Our shoe materials are also bought from local producers of rubber and leather. We want to ensure that everything about our line—from the sourcing of materials to assembly of the finished product—is all done in the Philippines to make them wonderful gifts/souvenirs for tourists to bring back home with them. We have a product development team that designs our wide range of sandals and fashion accessories.

What is your involvement in the design of the collection?

I head the product development team, so my job

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is to do the conceptualization of the line for each season, create the themes that the collections will revolve around, suggest new materials and combinations to experiment with, and approve or disapprove the end product of these experiments.

You recently opened Piece of Green also in Boracay. Tell us something about the philosophy behind “upcycling.”

Upcycling is a very exciting concept. Although it is not exactly a new concept, it has become more and more popular these days as people have become more concerned about the environment. We fell into it by accident, actually. By chance, we discovered that there are several collectors of industrial excess materials from factories that can still be turned into things that are of higher value with a little help from us!

At A Piece of Green, we have created signature collections of fashion accessories and souvenir items out of what we consider our “mainstay” elements. These are collections made from crushed bottle glass, plastic tetra pack chips, newspapers and magazines, and colorful electric wire casings. We are always in search of new elements to use and upcycle. It really is true what they say that one man’s trash is another man’s treasure!

Your products are geared towards the female clientele. Do you intend to open a men’s line?

Soon! A lot of our accessories, especially those at A Piece of Green, are actually unisex! We intend to expand our retail base domestically by joining more trade shows/bazaars in Manila and develop more presence online with the launch of our Web site www. islandgirlph.com in the coming months. The site supports e-commerce, incorporating PayPal and credit card payments as alternative payment options to the usual bank transfer system so that our tourist customers can still purchase our latest collections even while they are back home!

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TRANSPORT

A

ir New Zealand, an international and domestic airline group which provides air passenger and cargo transport services within New Zealand, as well as to and from Australia, the South West Pacific, Asia, North America and the United Kingdom, has been reaping honors and accolades for its excellent service and facilities. Of recent, New Zealand’s carrier won in the 10th annual Airline Strategy Awards in London as well as in Conde Nast Traveller’s 2011 Innovation and Design Awards.

Air New Zealand Reaps Accolades

The 10th annual Airline Strategy Awards

Air New Zealand has taken top honors for marketing at the 10th annual Airline Strategy Awards in London.

Recognizing the success of the airline’s marketing strategy, the judges, including Geoff Dixon (ex-CEO of Qantas), Ray Webster (ex-CEO of easyJet) and Joe Leonard (directorof Air Canada), stated that Air New Zealand is in an industry-leading position. The airline’s approach to marketing further propelled its brand on the international stage by using multimedia tools that showcase the carrier’s wit, humor and personality.

Airline Business editor Max Kingsley says the Airline Strategy Awards were founded a decade ago to recognize the best that the airline industry has to offer in leadership.

The publication says, “In making our decision, the judges look for evidence of a focused strategy which has helped to strengthen or reshape a carrier’s market positioning. Attention is given to the clarity of the strategy and level of innovation applied across the whole marketing mix from sales and distribution, through to the on-board product and managing the customer relationship.”

According to Airline Business Air New Zealand’s safety videos are already the stuff of marketing legend. “A 2009 video featuring flight crew nude, except for body painted uniforms, was so wildly successful on YouTube that few in the industry could have imagined the carrier would be able to quickly replicate such viral video magic,” it says. “But that is exactly what Air New Zealand did when it launched its latest video ‘Fit to Fly’ with American exercise icon Richard Simmons. The video drew in millions of viewers worldwide, captured the attention of the four largest TV networks in the USA and generated what the carrier acknowledges is an unbelievable degree of international reach.”

Reflecting Air New Zealand’s success in raising awareness of its brand, Airline Business says that the New Zealand carrier’s refreshing tongue-incheek attitude is certainly part of the carrier’s secret to success. And so too is its decision not to isolate its marketing team.

Air New Zealand general manager for marketing Mike Tod says the airline’s use of social media alongside marketing and PR has given it exposure the carrier could never afford to pay for with traditional marketing.

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“We believe you need public relations, social media and traditional marketing standing side-by-side. All three work together to deliver a cohesive strategy. Each builds off each other and builds a snowball of momentum,” says Tod. The Airline Strategy Award follows a raft of accolades Air New Zealand has already received this year including Skytrax World Airline Awards 2011’s Best Airline Australia/Pacific, Skytrax World Airline Awards 2011’s World’s Best Premium Economy Class, Conde Nast Traveller’s 2011 Innovation and Design Aviation Awards Air New Zealand Skycouch, Business Traveler Magazine’s Best Business Travel, Vanity Fair on Travel’s Best Premium Economy Seat, Crystal Cabin Awards’ Customer Comfort Award (Skycouch economy seating), Aviation Awards Asia’s Full Service Airline category, Business Traveller’s Cellars in the Sky Award as Best Presented Wine List, and UK Design Week magazine Awards 2011’s Best Furniture Design for Skycouch.

The Airline Strategy Awards, hosted by industry publication Airline Business, were announced at the Lincoln’s Inn in London, with judging carried by a panel of respected and independent judges.

mium cabins over the years, no other airline has put this level of research and development effort into improving the Economy flying experience.

“Conde Nast Traveller’s readers are very experienced travelers who understand how the flexible Skycouch space makes such a difference to long-haul economy travel, where most travelers would give anything to be able to lie down for a rest. The ability to be able to rest on a sofa-like platform—without the cost of upgrading to a premium cabin—is a huge relief for those traveling on twelve-hour legs to Los Angeles and 24-hour journeys to London.”

Air New Zealand offers the Skycouch option on the first ten outboard rows of the Economy cabin in its new Boeing 777-300ER aircraft operating NZ1 and NZ2 between Auckland and London, via Los Angeles.

For more information about Air New Zealand visit www.airnewzealand.com and for more information about Star Alliance visit www.staralliance.com.

The Conde Nast Traveller Award

Air New Zealand’s Skycouch Economy seat has won the Aviation Category in Conde Nast Traveller’s 2011 Innovation and Design Awards.

The Kiwi designed Economy Skycouch was selected ahead of new First Class A380 cabin designs entered by both Lufthansa and Singapore Airlines.

Conde Nast Traveller’s Innovation and Design Awards celebrate excellence in travel across ten categories including Aviation, Gourmet, Culture and Retail. An expert panel developed a short list from all entries, and the winners were chosen by a readers’ vote. The magazine commented that Air New Zealand is “... smoothing the way with its inventive approach to economy seating.”

Air New Zealand deputy CEO Norm Thompson says, “This latest award reinforces how revolutionary the Skycouch concept is in the commercial aviation sector. While airlines have made incremental improvements to their preVolume 7 Number 3, 2011 EXPERIENCE Travel and Living |

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TRAVEL DIRECTORY

DEPARTMENT OF TOURISM OFFICES National Capital Region Rm. 207, Department of Tourism Bldg., T.M. Kalaw St., Ermita, Manila Phone: (+63) 2 523-8411 to 20 Web site: www.wowphilippines.com.ph Ilocos Region (I) Oasis Country Resort Hotel National Highway, Sevilla, San Fernando, La Union Phone: (072) 888-2411/2098 Fax: 888-2098 Email: dotregion1@pldtdsl.net Laoag Sub-Office Room 207, Ilocano Heroes Memorial Hall, Laoag City Phone: (077) 722-1473 Fax: (077) 722-0467 Email: dotlaoag@digitelone.com Cordillera Administrative Region DOT Complex, Gov. Pack Road, Baguio City Phone: (074) 442-8848/7014 Fax: (074) 442-8848 Email: dotcar@pldtdsl.net Cagayan Valley Region (II) No. 29-A, Rizal St. Tuguegarao City, Cagayan Phone: (078) 844-1621, 846-2435 Fax: 846-2435 Email: dotr02@yahoo.com Web site: www.dotregion2.com.ph Central Luzon (III) Hilaga Village San Fernando City, Pampanga Phone: (045) 961-2665, 961-2612 Fax: 961-2612 Email: celtour@yahoo.com Southern Tagalog Regions (IV) Room 208, Department of Tourism Bldg., T.M. Kalaw St., Ermita, Manila Phone: (+63) 2 524-1969, 524-1528 and 526-7656 Fax: 526-7656 Email: lcjurilla@tourism.gov.ph Bicol Region (V) Regional Center Site Rawis, Legaspi City, Albay Phone: (052) 482-0712, 820-3664 Fax: 482-0715 Email: dotr5@globalink.net.ph Web site: www.wowbicol.com Western Visayas (VI) Western Visayas Tourism Center Capitol Ground, Bonifacio Drive, Iloilo City Phone: (033) 337-5411, 509-3550 Fax: 335-0245 Mobile: 0917-722-6691 Email: deptour6@mozcom.com

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Web site: www.corporate.mozcom.com/dot, www.westernvisayastourism.com.ph Boracay Field Office Balabag, Boracay Island, Malay, Aklan Phone: (036) 288-3689 Web site: www.boracay.com Central Visayas (VII) Ground floor, LDM Bldg., Lapu-Lapu City, Cebu City Tel. (032) 254-2811, 254-6077 and 254-6650 Email: dotregion7@gmail.com, dotcebu@gmail.com Eastern Visayas (VIII) Ground floor, Foundation Plaza Bldg., Leyte Park Resort Compound, Magsaysay Blvd., Tacloban City Phone: (053) 321-2048, 321-4333 Fax: 325-5279 Email: dotreg8@yahoo.com Web site: www.visiteasternvisayas.ph Zamboanga Peninsula (IX) Lantaka Hotel by the Sea Valderosa St., Zamboanga City Tel. (062) 991-0218 Fax: 993-0030 Email: dotr9@yahoo.com Northern Mindanao (X) Gregorio Pelaez Sports Center, A.Velez St., Cagayan de Oro City Phone: (08822) 726-394, 723-696, 856-4048 and 858-8866 Fax: 723-696 Email: dotr10@yahoo.com Davao Region (XI) Rm. 512, Landco Corporate Center Bldg., J.P. Laurel Avenue, Davao City Phone: (082) 221-6955, 487-0659 Fax: 221-0070 / 225-1940 Email: dotr11@yahoo.com Web site: www.discoverdavao.com

EMBASSIES and CONSULATES Australia Level 23-Tower 2, RCBC Plaza, 6819 Ayala Avenue, Makati City 1200 Phone: (+63) 2 757 8100 Fax: (+63) 2 7578 268 Web site: www.philippines.embassy. gov.au Email: manila.consular@dfat.gov.au Belgium 9th floor, Multinational Bancorporation Centre, 6805 Ayala Avenue, Makati City Phone: + (63) 2 845-1869 Fax: + (63) 2 845-2076 Web site: www.diplomatie.be/manila Email: manila@diplobel.org Brazil 16th floor, Liberty Center, 104 H.V. dela Costa St., Salcedo Village, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 845-3651 to 53 Fax: (+63) 2 845-3676 Web site: http://manila.itamaraty.gov.h Email: brasemb@info.com.ph Brunei Darussalam 11th Floor BPI Building, Ayala Avenue cor. Paseo De Roxas, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 816-2836, 891-6646 Fax: (+63) 2 816-2876 Cambodia Unit 7A-B, Country Space 1 Building, Sen. Gil Puyat Avenue, Makati City Phone: (+63-2) 818-9981, 810-1896 Fax: (+63-2) 818-9983 Web site: nfaic.gov.kh Email: cam.emb.ma@netasia.net Canada Level 6, 7 and 8, Tower II, RCBC Plaza, 6819 Ayala Avenue, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 857-9000 Fax: (+63) 2 843-1082 Web site: www.manila.gc.ca

Soccsksargen (XII) Second floor, COMSE Bldg., Quezon Ave., Cotabato City Phone: (064) 421-1110 Fax: 421-7868 Email: dot12@greendot.com.ph

China 4896 Pasay Road., Dasmarinas Village, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 844-3148, 843-7715 Fax: (+63) 2 845-2465, 843-9974 Email: chinaemb_ph@mfa.gov.cn

Koronadal Sub-Office Ground floor, Marvella Plaza Hotel, Gen Paulino Santos Drive, Koronadal City Phone: (083) 228-8667

Denmark 51st floor, PBCOM Tower, 6795 Ayala Avenue, Makati City, Manila, Philippines Phone: (+63) 2 815-8015 Fax: (+63) 2 815-8017 Email: mnlconsul@maersk.com

Caraga Region (XIII) Ground floor, Grateful Realty Corp. Bldg., 88 Pili Drive, Butuan City Phone: (085) 341-8413 Fax: 815-6040 Email: dotr13@yahoo.com Web site: www.dotcaraga.ph

EXPERIENCE Travel and Living Volume 7 Number 3, 2011

Egypt 7th floor, GC Corporate Plaza 150 Legaspi St. Legaspi Village, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 843-9220 Fax : (+63) 2 843-9239

Finland 21st Floor BPI Buendia Center, Sen. Gil J. Puyat Avenue, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 891-5011 to 15 Fax: (+63) 2 891-4107 Web site: www.finland.ph Email: sanomat.mni@formin.fi France 16th floor, The Pacific Star Bldg., Makati Ave. cor. Sen. Gil Puyat Ext., Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 810-1981/8 Fax: (+63) 2 813-1908 Germany 25/F Tower 2, RCBC Plaza 6819 Ayala Ave., Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 892-4906 Fax: (+63) 2 810-4703 Web site: www.manila.diplo.de Email: germanembassymanila@surfshop.net.ph India 2190 Paraiso St. Dasmarinas Village, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 815-8151 Fax: (+63) 2 815-8151 Web site: www.embindia.org.ph Email: amb@embindia.org.ph Indonesia 185 Salcedo St., Legaspi Village, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 892-5061/68 Fax: (+63) 2 892-5878, 818-4441 Web site: www.kbrimanila.org.ph Email: fungsipensosbud@yahoo.com.ph Ireland 3rd floor, Max’s Bldg., 70 Jupiter St., Bel-Air, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 896-4668 Fax: (+63) 2 897-8534 Email: irishcon@pldtdsl.net Israel 23rd floor, Trafalgar Plaza, H.V. dela Costa St., Salcedo Village, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 892-5330 Fax: (+63) 2 894-1027 Web site: www.manila.mfa.gov.il Email: info@manila.mfa.gov.il Italy 6th floor, Zeta Bldg.

191 Salcedo St. Legaspi Village, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 892-4531/2/3 Fax: (+63) 2 817-1436 Email: informazioni.manila@esteri.it Japan 2627 Roxas Blvd., Pasay City Phone: (+63) 2 551-5710 Fax: (+63) 2 551-5785, 551-5780 Web site: www.ph.emb-japan.go.jp Email: jicc-mnl@embjapan.ph Korea 10th floor, The Pacific Star Bldg., Makati Ave. Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 811-6139 to 44 Fax: (+63) 2 811-6148

TRAVEL DIRECTORY Malaysia 29th and 30th flr., The World Center Bldg.

330 Sen. Gil Puyat Ave. Makati City Phone: (+63)2 864-0761 to 68 Fax: (+63)2 864-0727 Email: malmanila@kln.gov.my Mexico 2nd floor, GC Corporate Plaza 150 Legaspi St. Legaspi Vill., Makati City Phone: (+63)2 812-2211, 812-2212 Fax: (+63)2 892-7635 Web site: www.sre.gob.mx/filipinas Email: ebmexfil@info.com.ph Netherlands 26th Floor Equitable PCI Bank Tower, 8751 Paseo de Roxas, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 786-6666 Fax: (+63 2) 786-6600 Web site: www.netherlandsembassy.ph Email: man@minbuza.nl New Zealand 23rd Floor, BPI Center Sen. Gil Puyat Ave., Makati City Phone: (+63)2 891-5358 to 67, 891-3272 to 75 Fax: (+63)2 891-5357, 891-5356 Web site: www.nzembassy.com/philippines Email: nzemmanila@globelines.com.ph Norway 21st floor, Petron Mega Plaza Bldg., 358 Sen. Gil Puyat Ave., Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 886-3245 to 49 Fax: (+63) 2 886-3244, 886.3384 Web site: www.norway.ph Email: emb.manila@msa.no Pakistan 6th Floor, Alexander House 132 Amorsolo St., Legaspi Village Makati City Phone: (+63)2 817-2772/6 Fax: (+63)2 840-0229 Email: pakrepmanila@yahoo.com Web site: www.ctstech.org/pkembphil/ cservicesmain.htm Russia 1245 Acacia Road., Dasmarinas Village, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 893-0190 Fax: (+63) 2 810-9614 Web site: www.rusmanila.mid.ru Email: RusEmb@i-manila.com.ph Saudi Arabia 389 Gen. Gil Puyat Ave., Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 890-9735 Fax: (+63) 2 895-3493 Singapore 505 Rizal Drive,1634 Bonifacio Global City, Taguig City.

Phone: (+63) 2 856-9922 Fax: (+63) 2 856-9932 Spain 5th floor, ACT Tower, 135 Sen. Gil Puyat Ave., Makati City

Phone: (+63) 2 818-5526 Fax: (+63) 2 810-2885 Emails: emb.manila@maec.es and con.manila@maec.es Sweden 16th floor, Equitable PCI Bank Tower II Bldg., Makati Ave. cor. Dela Costa Sts., Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 811-7900 Fax: (+63) 2 815-3002 Web site: www.swedenabroad.com/manila Email: ambassaden.manila@foreign.ministry.se Switzerland 24th floor, Equitable Bank Tower, 8751 Paseo de Roxas, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 757-9000 Fax: (+63) 2 757-3718 Web site: www.eda.admin.ch/manila Email: vertretung@man.rep.admin.ch Taiwan 41F, Tower 1, RCBC Plaza 6819 Ayala Avenue, Makati City Phone: (+63)2 887-6688 Fax: (+63)2 887-7679, 887-4661 Web site: www.taiwanoffice.org/embassy.ph Email: phl@mofa.gov.tw Thailand 107 Rada St., Legaspi Village, Makati City Phone: (+63)2 815-4219/20 Fax: (+63)2 815-4221 Web site: www.thaiembassymnl.com Email: infomnl@pldtdsl.net Turkey 2268 Paraiso St. Dasmari単as Village, Makati City Phone: (+63)2 843-9705, 943-9707 Fax: (+63)2 843-9702 Email: embassy.manila@msa.gov.tk United Arab Emirates 2nd floor, Renaissance Bldg., 215 Salcedo St., Legaspi Village, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 817-3906 Fax: (+63) 2 818-3577 United Kingdom 15th to17th floors, L.V. Locsin Bldg., 6752 Ayala Ave. cor. Makati Ave., Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 580-8700 Fax: (+63) 2 819-7206 Web site: www.britishembassy.gov. uk/philippines Email: uk@info.com.ph

LOCAL AIRLINES AirPhil Express R-1 Hangar, APC Gate1, Andrews Avenue, Nichols Tel. 851-7601 Ground Floor, Charterhouse, 114 Legaspi St., Legaspi Village, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 892-1459/2071; 24-Hour reservations number: 855-9000 Cebu Pacific Airlines Airline Operations Center Domestic Airport, Pasay City, Phone : (+63) 2 702-0888 (reservations), (+63) 2 290-5271 to 72 (customer service), (+63) 2 852-2328 local 263 (accounting), (+63) 2 290-5321 to 22 (cargo), (+63) 2 290-5241 to 42 (group desk) Email: customerservice@cebupacificair. com (customer service) cebrefacctg@cebupacificair.com (accounting) Web site: www.cebupacificair.com

Makati Avenue cor Sto. Tomas St., Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 817-8645, 810-3229 Asiana Airlines 6th Floor, Salcedo Tower, Dela Costa Street, Salcedo Village, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 892-5681 to 88 British Airways 4th Floor, Filipino Bldg., Dela Rosa Street cor. Legaspi Street, Legaspi Village, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 817-0361, 815-6560 Cathay Pacific Airways Limited Room 446, 4th Floor, IPT Bldg., NAIA Terminal 1, Ninoy Aquino Ave., Paranaque City Phone: (+63) 2 832-2979 China Airlines Ground Flr., Manila Midtown Arcade, Malate, Manila Phone: (+63) 2 523-6319, 524-4950/4331

Island Aviation, Inc. A. Soriano Hangar, Andrews Avenue, Pasay City, Metro Manila, Philippines Phone: (63) 2 833-3855

Emirates Pacific Star Building, Sen. Gil Puyat Ave., Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 858-5350, 858-5300

Island Transvoyager, Inc. A Soriano Hangar, Lima Road cor Andrews Ave., Domestic Airport, Pasay City Phone: (+63) 2 821-5674, 851-5667 and 854-5674

Eva Airways 5438 Don Tim Building, South Superhighway, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 889-5701 to 04

Inter Island Airlines 74 Roxas Blvd., Paranaque City Phone: (+63) 2 852-8003

Finnair 10th Floor, Rufino Pacific Tower Ayala Ave,. Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 856-1427

Philippine Airlines 2nd Floor, Power Realty Bldg., 1012 Arnaiz Ave., Makati City.

Phone: (+63) 2 892-7339, 815-6481

Gulf Air 9th Floor, Ayala Life FGU Center 6811 Ayala Ave., Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 892-1313

South East Asian Airlines Domestic Passenger Terminal 1, Manila Domestic Airport, Pasay City Phone: (+63) 2 849-0100

Japan Airlines 2nd floor, Oledan Square, 6788 Ayala Avenue, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 886-6877 to 78

ZestAir Domestic Road cor. Andrews Ave., Pasay City Phone: (+63) 2 855-3333

KLM Royal Dutch Airlines 8th floor, Athenaeum Building, 160 LP Leviste St., Salcedo Village, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 848-5817, 815-4790

FOREIGN AIRLINES

United States of America 1201 Roxas Blvd., Manila Phone: (+63) 2 528-6300 Fax: (+63) 2 522-4361 Web site: www.manila.usembassy.gov

Air India Phil Am Life Salcedo Building, 126 L.P. Leviste St., SalcedoVillage, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 815-2441/1280

Vietnam 670 Pablo Ocampo, Malate, Manila Phone: (+63) 2 525-2837, 521-6843 Fax: (+63) 2 526-0472 Web site: www.vietnamembassyphilippines.org Email: vnem@yahoo.com

Air New Zealand 10th Floor, Rufino Pacific Tower, Ayala Ave., Makati City.

Phone: (+63) 2 884-8097 American Airlines Ground Flr., Olympia Somerset Condominium,

Korean Air Ground floor, LPL Plaza Bldg., 124 LP Leviste St., Salcedo Village, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 815-9262, 815-9264 Laoag International Airlines Terminal 1, Manila Domestic Airport, Pasay City Phone: (+63) 2 551-9729, 551-4813 Lufthansa German Airlines Legaspi Parkview Condominiums, 134 Legaspi cor. Palanca Sts., Legaspi Village, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 810-5033

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TRAVEL DIRECTORY Malaysia Airlines 23rd Floor, LKG Tower Bldg., 6801 Ayala Ave., Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 887-3215, 843-6674 Northwest Airlines 8th floor, Athenaeum Building, 160 LP Leviste St., Salcedo Village, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 819-7261 Qatar Airways Ground floor, 132-A The Colonnade Residences, Legaspi Village, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 812-1888 Qantas Airways Limited 4th floor, Filipino Merchants Building, 135 Legaspi corner Dela Rosa Sts., Legaspi Village, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 812-4738 Royal Brunei Airlines G/F SGV II Blg., 6758 Ayala Ave., Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 897-3309, 895-3545 Singapore Airlines 33rd floor, LKG Tower, 6801 Ayala Avenue, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 756-8899, 756-8888 South African Airways 10th Floor, Rufino Pacific Tower Ayala Ave,. Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 884-8129 Thai Airways International Country Space 1 Building, Sen. Gil Puyat Ave., Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 812-4812 Tiger Airways 1000 Makati Ave. cor Arnaiz Avenue, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 884-1524 United Airlines 10th Floor, Rufino Pacific Tower Ayala Ave,. Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 884-8272 CAR RENTAL AND TAXI SERVICE Alamo Rent-A-Car 211 Quirino Avenue, Tambo, Parañaque City Phone: (+63) 2 551-4923/07 Avcar Rental Corp.

3674 Bautista cor Dayap Sts., Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 687-2212 Avis Philippines Manila Peninsula Hotel Shop #1, Ayala Wing Ayala Avenue, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 845-1844, 843-7140 Web site: www.avis.com.ph

Budget Rent-A-Car The Peninsula Hotel Manila Ayala Avenue, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 818-7363, 8162211/6682 Carlines Rent-A-Car Services Tuscany Condominium, 6751 Ayala Avenue, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 810-5421, 813-1975 to 76 Del’s Transport Services 1042 Vito Cruz St., Singalong, Manila Phone: (+63) 2 524-5187, 5258396/2696 Executive Transport and Cars Casa Blanca, 1447 M. Adriatico St., Ermita, Manila Phone: (+63) 2 523-5595 Filcar Transport Services 2nd Floor, Unit 2-A, Torre De Salcedo Bldg., 184 Salcedo St., Legaspi Village, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 894-1754, 817-8346 and 843-3530 Telefax: (+63) 2 893-1251 Web site: www.filcartransport.com Email: info@filcartransport.com Gemini Transport Services 43 B. Francisco St., New Saniega Phone: (+63) 2 811-6888 Grayline Philippines 7737-C, St. Paul Road, San Antonio Village, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 890-3963 to 64 Hertz Rent-A-Car Unit 101, Sunset Tower, Makati Ave. cor. Durban St., Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 897-5161 NAIA Airport Terminal 1 Branch, Phone: (+63) 2 877-1406 Mobeline Charter Services 2449 Sequia St., Sta.Ana, Manila Phone: (+63) 2 890-2778 Nissan Rent-A-Car 2317 Aurora Blvd., Pasay City Phone: (+63) 2 854-7099 Fax: (+63) 2 852-6599 Web site: www.nissanrentacar.com Email: lgq-sales@nissanrentacar.com Orix Auto Leasing Phil. Corp.

148 Yakal St., San Antonio Village, Makati City.

Phone: (+63) 2 893-2523 to 27, 893-3233 and 893-2020 (24 hrs.)

Sandeco Rent-A-Car 5446-48 South Superhighway Phone: (+63) 2 844-7954/7960/ 4478 to 79

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Sunflower Transport Services 7 Santa Teresita St., Kapitolyo, Pasig City Phone: (+63) 2 631-3496 Tigers on the Run 3rd Floor, Sen. Gil Puyat Avenue, Mkti.

City Phone: (+63) 2 899-98-28/08 BUS COMPANIES Aladdin Transit Cayco St., Sampaloc, Manila Phone: (+63) 2 781-9168 BLTB 2nd Avenue, Caloocan City Phone: (+63) 2 363-4478, 365-7886 Baliwag Transit 2nd Avenue cor. Rizal Avenue, Caloocan City Phone: (+63) 2 364-7002, 364-0860, 364-0778 and 363-4331 Dagupan Bus Line New York St. cor. Edsa, Cubao, Quezon City Phone: (+63) 2 727-2330 or 2287 Dangwa Tranco 832 Aurora Blvd. cor. Driod St., Cubao, Quezon City Phone: (+63) 2 410-1991 Executive Carriers and Services, Inc. 153 Quirino Ave., Baclaran, Parañaque City Phone: (+63) 2 851-8701, 912-4289 Fariñas Transit Fariñas Building 1238 Lacson St. Sampaloc, Manila 743-8580 to 84 / 734-5311 / 7499645 09173279665 Fariñas Terminal Brgy. 8 Fariñas St. Laoag City, Ilocos Norte (077) 7721177 / 09173279526 Five Star Bus Company 2220 Aurora Blvd., Pasay City Phone: (+63) 2 853-4772 Genesis Transport Services Inc. 101-A Giselle Park Plaza, Edsa Rotonda cor. H. Taft Avenue, Pasay City Phone: (+63) 2 733- 8622 704 Edsa cor. New York St., Cubao, Quezon City Phone: (+63) 2 709-0803, 421-1413 JAC Liner #2 Mapagmahal St. Brgy. Pinyahan, Kamias Road, Quezon City Phone: (+63) 2 927-4745/6139, 928-6140

Jam Transit Timog St. corner Edsa Quezon City Phone: (+63) 2 724-4897 Partas Transportation Co., Inc. 816 Aurora Blvd., Quezon City Phone: (+63) 2 725-1740, 725-1756 and 724-9820 Philippine Rabbit Oroquieta St., Sta.Cruz, Manila Phone: (+63) 2 734-9836 and 489-0328 Philtranco Edsa, Apelo Cruz St., Pasay City Phone: (+63) 2 851-8077 to 79 (Pasay) and 722-7567 (Cubao) RRCG Transport Km. 18, Ortigas Avenue Extension, Cainta, Rizal Phone: (+63) 2 656-7503 Saulog Transit 1377 Quirino Avenue, Paranaque City Phone: (+63) 2 825-2926 to 30, 826-1285 Tritran CMC Building, Andrews Avenue corner Aurora Blvd., Pasay City Phone: (+63) 2 851-7971 Victory Liner 713 Rizal Ave. Ext., Caloocan City Phone: (+63) 2 361-1506 651 EDSA, Pasay City Phone: (+63) 2 833-5019 to 20 Espana Cor. Galecia St. Sampaloc, Manila Phone: (+63) 2 741-1436 Edsa near Aurora Blvd., Cubao Phone: (+63) 2 727-4688 SHIPS and FERRIES WG & A (Superferry) 12th floor, Times Plaza Building, UN Ave. cor. Taft Ave., Ermita, Manila Phone: (+63) 2 528-7979, 528-7171 Web site: www.SuperFerry.com.ph Email: customerinteraction@SuperFerry.com.ph Mt. Samat Ferry Express CCP Bay Terminal, CCP Complex, Pasay City Phone: (+63) 2 551-5290 to 91 Negros Navigation Pier II, North Harbor, Tondo, Manila Phone: (+63) 2 243-5231, 244-0408 Web site: www.negrosnavigation.ph Email: gcabalo@negrosnavigation.ph Sulpicio Lines Manila Terminal Office Pier 12, North Harbor Tondo, Manila Phone: (+63) 2 245-0616 to 30 Fax: (+63) 2 243-4570, 243-4571 Web site: www.sulpiciolines.com

TRAVEL CALENDAR

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October - December commemorate the foundation anniversary of Sorsogon.

BUGLASAN FESTIVAL October 16 - 25 | Negros Oriental This is Negros Oriental’s “festival of festivals,” gathering different contingents from its towns’ festivals to vie for a showdown and join in the street dancing revelry. The different towns also showcase their products at the Sidlakang Negros Village. Numerous activities are lined up from cook fest to fireworks competitions, from beauty pageants to sports. First held in 1981, the festival’s name is derived from buglas, a kind of reed and the old name of Negros.

SAGINGAN FESTIVAL October 16-17 | Tubod, Lanao del Norte This is a celebration and thanksgiving for the bounty featuring the banana.

LEYTE GULF LANDING ANNIVERSARY October 17-20 | Dulag and Palo, Leyte This commemorates the landing of Gen. Douglas MacArthur on the shores of Palo, Leyte, to liberate the Philippines from Japanese occupation.

FIESTANG KULIAT October | Angeles City This is a month-long celebration of the twin fiestas of Angeles City: La Naval and Fiestang Apu.

FEAST OF OUR LADY OF THE HOLY ROSARY October 7 | Dipolog City The Dipolog City fiesta is highlighted with religious and cultural shows.

ZAMBOANGA HERMOSA FESTIVAL October 1-12 | Zamboanga City The City of Flowers celebrates its grand annual festival with vintas (colorful native sailboats) in a regatta, cultural and flower shows, art exhibits and trade fairs.

LA NAVAL FIESTA October 9 | Angeles City This is in commemoration of the Virgin of the Holy Rosary whose intercession saw the victory of the Spaniards over the Dutch invaders.

LA NAVAL FESTIVAL October | Nationwide This a celebration in honor of the Nuestra Señora del Santisimo Rosario.

KINILAW FESTIVAL October 2 | Surigao City This festival showcases different styles in preparing the kinilaw (ceviche).

SINANGGIYAW FESTIVAL October 4 | Dumanjug, Cebu The name Sinanggi-yaw is taken from two old Cebuano words: sinanggi, meaning abundance of harvest, and sayaw, meaning dance.

Through street dancing and field presentation, performers dance merrily focused on three aspects: planting, harvesting and thanksgiving KIDAPAWAN CITY FRUIT FESTIVAL October 5-10 | Kidapawan City This agro-tourism has activities involving fruits such as the lining of tons of tropical fruits along the highway island for the public to eat free of charge.

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PAMUGU-AN FESTIVAL October 17-23 | Mansalay, Mindoro Oriental This is a festive reunion of different Mangyan groups.

ANA KALANG FESTIVAL October 18-22 | Nagcarlan, Laguna This festival features many activities highlighted by an agri-fair that shows the town’s bountiful harvest.

TING’UDO FESTIVAL October 10 | Makilala, Cotabato This is a celebration of bountiful fruit harvest.

INUG-OG FESTIVAL October 14 | Oroquieta City This features ethnic dances and Subanon rituals.

KAPAKYANAN FESTIVAL October 14-15 | Victoria, Mindoro Oriental Kapakyanan (abundance) Festival focuses on the bounteous harvest of crops.

HALAD FESTIVAL October 15 | Talisay City, Cebu In celebration of the feast in honor of St. Teresa of Avila, the city comes alive with activities such trade fairs, nightly variety shows, civic parade and street dancing featuring city’s famous products such as the lechon, cooking demonstration and food fair with the tastiest lechon contest.

KASANGGAYAHAN FESTIVAL October 15-25 | Sorsogon, Sorsogon It is a joyous celebration held primarily to

EXPERIENCE Travel and Living Volume 7 Number 3, 2011

MASSKARA FESTIVAL and BACOLOD CHARTER DAY CELEBRATION October 19 | Bacolod City Coinciding with the city’s charter day celebration, the festival features carnivals, fairs and a Mardi Gras-style parade. This is also a celebration of the founding anniversary of Bacolod City.

nates with the ever popular Tigitigan, Terakan Keng Dalan, which features singing and dancing on the street.

HINUGYAW SA ANILAO October 31 | Anilao, Iloilo This is a celebration of the separation of Anilao from Banate, featuring various sports and cultural activities.

LANZONES FESTIVAL October 20-24 | Camiguin This festival features Camiguin’s favorite fruit, the lanzones.

BANAAG FESTIVAL Nov. 1 | Anilao, Iloilo This “dance of lights” is the first of its kind in the region with a dance-drama competition using light and all its forms as media.

CATANDUNGAN PADAYAW FESTIVAL October 21-23 | Catanduanes This is a celebration of the province’s founding anniversary and a tribute to its founder, continuously reminding the people of Catanduanes of the province’s independence from the province of Albay. It features street dancing, a beauty pageant, an agro-trade fair, sports events, guided tours, photo exhibits and more.

BANAYAN FESTIVAL October 26-28 | Banaybanay, Davao Oriental This is a thanksgiving celebration giving tribute to the town’s main product.

SAMBUOKAN FESTIVAL October 27-29 | Mati, Davao Oriental Activities include agro-trade fair and civic military parade in Mati, capital town of Davao Oriental.

APO FIESTA October 28 | Angeles City This is a celebration that begins with several masses at the Holy Rosary parish church after which the faithful kiss the feet of the image of the Reclining Christ.

TIGITIGAN AT TARAKAN KENG DALAN October 28-29 | Balibago, Angeles City The celebration of Fiestang Kuliat culmi-

ANGONO ARTS FESTIVAL Nov. 5-25 | Angono, Rizal The rich culture and traditions of Angono are presented and showcased.

PUTONG POLO FESTIVAL Second Sunday of November | Polo, Valenzuela, Metro Manila The festival aims to promote a deeper cultural awareness about Valenzuela through its famous native delicacy called putong Polo.

HELOBONG FESTIVAL Nov. 9-11 | Lake Sebu, South Cotabato The T’Boli ethnic group showcases traditional songs, dances and crafts.

KAHILWAYAN FESTIVAL Nov. 17 | Sta. Barbara, Iloilo Anchored on the Cry of Santa Barbara Celebration, this is a cultural festival featuring a reenactment of the struggle for freedom led

by Gen. Martin G. Delgado. Kahilwayan is Hiligaynon word which means “freedom.”

P’YAGSAWITAN FESTIVAL Nov. 18-25 | Maragusan, Compostela Valley The celebration highlights the town’s ecotourism potential.

PINTAFLORES FESTIVAL Nov. 3-5 | San Carlos City, Negros Occidental The three-day religious festivity honors the patron saint of San Carlos City, St. Charles Borromeo.

IBALONG FESTIVAL October 25-31 | Legazpi City, Albay A festival depicts the Bicol region’s early beginning as narrated in the epic Ibalong.

ed with an annual cultural festival.

URUKAY FESTIVAL Nov. 18-19 | Anini-y, Antique This is inspired by a local custom in which a wedding feast is observed no matter how poor the couples are. There is much fun and good-natured teasing.

FRUIT AND FLOWER FESTIVAL Nov. 5-9 | Nabunturan, Compostela Valley The festival showcases the abundance of the province’s produce.

CINCO DE NOVIEMBRE/ KANSILAY FESTIVAL Nov. 5-13 | Bago City, Negros Occidental Nov. 5, 1898 is remembered by the Negrenses as a day of bloodless revolts against the Spanish colonizers. This patriotic event is celebrat-

KALIMUDAN FESTIVAL Nov. 21 | Isulan, Sultan Kudarat The celebration gathers different ethnic groups of the area.

HIGANTES FESTIVAL Nov. 23 | Angono, Rizal The fiesta is highlighted by a procession of 10-feet high papier mache puppets.

KABKABAN FESTIVAL Nov. 23-29 | Carcar, Cebu The festival is in honor of the town’s patroness, St. Catherine of Alexandria. It also show-

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TRAVEL CALENDAR

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October - December SINUKWAN FESTIVAL Dec. 1-7 | San Fernando, Pampanga This festival shows the culture and beliefs of the Pampangans through a colorful street dancing parade.

LUGLUGAN FESTIVAL Dec. 1-10 | Malabon City This festival honors Immaculate Concepcion, Malabon’s patron saint, and also highlights its famous food, the pancit luglog or Malabon.

cases the town’s history and industry like shoemaking, as well as their arts and culture.

GALICAYO FESTIVAL Dec. 1-9 | Manaoag, Pangasinan This is a province-wide cultural and religious celebration in honor of Pangasinan’s patroness.

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KALAMAY FESTIVAL Dec. 2 | San Enrique,Iloilo Overall, this festival revolves around the culture, tradition, lifestyle and livelihood relating to the sugar industry and also its eco-tourism potentials.

SINADYA SA HALARAN Dec. 4-8 | Roxas City, Capiz It is a thanksgiving festival with fireworks display, food festival and dancing.

EXPERIENCE Travel and Living Volume 7 Number 3, 2011

TAG-ANITOHAN Dec. 8-9 | Tudela, Camotes Island, Cebu This festival retells the town’s history including its Christianization and its separation from its mother town of Poro in the year 1911.

COFFEE FESTIVAL Dec. 11-16 | Lipa City, Batangas The week-long festival gives tribute to famous kapeng barako.

PARAYAN FESTIVAL Dec. 12 | Pototan, Iloilo One of the events in this festival is an agroindustrial fair.

KASADYAAN FESTIVAL Dec. 12-14 | Dumaguete City, Negros Oriental This is the city’s oldest running fiesta with Mardi Gras parade.

BOD-BOD FESTIVAL Dec. 14-16 | Tanjay City, Negros Oriental The festival gives emphasis to the native delicacy made of glutinous rice, coconut milk, sugar and salt.

SHARIFF KABUNSUAN FESTIVAL Dec. 15-19 | Cotabato City, Maguindanao The festival celebrates the arrival of Islam to the region.

PANTATAN FESTIVAL Dec. 15-19 | Zarraga, Iloilo The main purpose of this festival is to promote the town of Zarraga as one of the major producers and trading center of pantat in Panay Island. Among the festival activities are street dancing, a pantat cooking contest and a beauty contest.

GIANT LANTERN FESTIVAL Dec. 15-31 | San Fernando, Pampanga It is an annual competition and parade of the biggest, most spectacular lanterns.

TAWO-TAWO FESTIVAL Dec. 21 | Bayawan City, Negros Oriental The festival features scarecrows (tawo-tawo) made of papier mache.

KANYONG KAWAYAN FESTIVAL Third week of December | Kidapawan City, North Cotabato This unique activity discourages the use of pyrotechnics during the Yuletide season, instead bamboo cannons are used with empty milk cans as projectiles.

MAYTINIS FESTIVAL Dec. 24 | Kawit, Cavite This features a dramatic retelling of St. Joseph’s and the Virgin Mary’s search in Bethlehem for a place to stay, culminating in a lively parade down the streets of Kawit.

MISA DE GALLO Dec. 16-24 | nationwide This Filipino Yuletide tradition culminates in a midnight mass on Christmas Eve. PASTORES BICOL Dec. 18 | Legazpi City, Albay This is a musical re-enactment of the story of the Nativity.

KANYON-KANYON FESTIVAL Dec. 25-31|Bgy. Cabugao Norte, Sta. Barbara, Iloilo This includes a revival of an old tradition in celebrating the New Year by making loud sounds through bamboo canons (bayong).

PUTO FESTIVAL Dec. 26-28 | Calasiao, Pangasinan This festival celebrates the town’s famous food, the little sticky, rice cake or puto.

TULTUGAN FESTIVAL Dec. 29 | Maasin, Iloilo This is an annual tribute to Panay Island’s native drum and ancient bamboo instrument.

Tultugan is Hiligaynon for the indigenous bamboo drum.

In Future Issues Coming to Cape Town. The legislative capital of South Africa, which is its largest and the second-most populous city, is the venue of the 2010 FIFA World Cup and offers much to the adventurous tourist. Some of the popular attractions are the harbour, Table Mountain, Cape Point, Robben Island, the beaches, the African penguins and Victoria and Alfred Waterfront.

Make it Samar. The island of Samar in eastern Visayas is not a known tourist destination, but it has plenty to offer to the adventurous traveler. There are opportunities to go hiking, spelunking, or simply just to enjoy the beauty of nature. Experience Travel and Living explores Jiabong Cave in Jiabong, Samar; visits Biri Island in Northern Samar; and ventures to Guiuan in Eastern Samar A Visit to Morocco. The North African country proves to be an exotic destination with its fascinating culture, delectable cuisine and the romance associated with it. Explore with us to see why Morocco is enticing and unique.

Following Rizal in Zamboanga. For the 150th birth anniversary of Jose Rizal, the Department of Tourism came up with a heritage trail, following the places where the national hero has been. There are several numerous sites in the Zamboanga Peninsula, prominent of which is Dapitan City in Zamboanga de Norte, the place of his exile.

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PARTING SHOT

Big Lagoon of Miniloc Island, El Nido, Palawan. (Photo by Donald Tapan)

“Once you have traveled, the voyage never ends, but is played out over and over again in the quietest chambers. The mind can never break off from the journey.”

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— Pat Conroy, American novelist