QVNA Magazine (May 2018) by Queen Village Neighbors Association

GLORIA DEI 3.0 May 2018

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Here’s What’s Inside // MAY 2018

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A LETTER FROM THE PRESIDENT Eleanor Ingersoll reports on the current state of QVNA and its goals for the immediate future. A PEACH OF A BOTANIST Peter Ross and Amy Grant discuss the trees, shrubs, and vines identified by Swedish botanist Pehr Kalm. SVEN’S WOODS: BRINGING MORE WILDLIFE TO GLORIA DEI Michael Schreiber explores what land in Queen Village looked like 300 years ago.

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GLORIA DEI 3.0: GREENER AND MORE GLORIOUS Jim Murphy and Amy Grant unveil a new design concept for the Gloria Dei (Old Swedes’) Church property.

JENNY LIND SANG IN QUEEN VILLAGE Michael Schreiber tells the tale of the first international superstar of the musical world.

AMERICAN BEAVER NEAR SVEN’S WOODS Duncan Spencer, our rodent reporter, digs into the history and resurgence of the American Beaver.

MULBERRY MARGARITA Amy Shelanski presents a locally sourced take on a summer cocktail classic.

Why Donate to QVNA?

Queen Village Neighbors Association is a volunteer-driven organization, committed to improving our neighborhood. We fund projects for schools, parks, tree tending, the South Street Police Detail, and act as a channel of communication with the city. QVNA volunteers strengthen our community by helping it become safer and more enjoyable. Please donate online at QVNA.org/donate.

04 May 2018

THE FRUITS OF YOUR LABOR Donna Pancari advises garden enthusiasts about three easy-to-grow fruit trees. NATURAL WONDERS FOR PHILLY KIDS Katie Lockwood shares her favorite places for city kids to splash in puddles, hunt for bugs and climb on rocks. EARLY SUMMER FILMS THAT WON’T MAKE ME TOTALLY HOMICIDAL: 2018 Piers Marchant finds cinematic gold amongst the dregs of summer film releases. W. E. B. DU BOIS Jim Murphy takes a look back at "The Philadelphia Negro," a famous research study by W. E. B. Du Bois. WECCACOE – THE CITY’S FIRST COMMUNITY GARDEN Terry Buckalew reveals a little known story about Philadelphia’s first community garden. SUMMERTIME FUN FOR THE WHOLE FAMILY Hilary Young suggests outdoor spots ideal for citybound families looking for adventure.

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May 2018 05

Contributors All opinions are of individual authors and do not necessarily reflect those of Queen Village Neighbors Association.

TERRY BUCKALEW

DONNA PANCARI

Terry Buckalew is a local historian who has conducted extensive research on the Bethel Burying Ground. He can be reached for questions or comments at tebuckalew@gmail.com or bethelburyinggroundproject.com.

Donna Pancari is a ninth-grade English teacher. Along with her husband Kevin Parker, she edits the local food blog Farm To Philly, and gardens at the Southwark Queen Village Community Garden.

AMY GRANT

PETER ROSS

Amy Grant serves on the board of the Historic Gloria Dei (Old Swedes’) Preservation Corporation. You can read her history stories at www.southwarkhistory.org.

Peter Ross is a realtor with Plumer & Associates. He previously served on the QVNA board and QVK9. He is currently a member of the QVNA Magazine editorial board.

ELEANOR INGERSOLL

MICHAEL SCHREIBER

Eleanor Ingersoll is QVNA’s president and the chair of the Schools and Youth Activities Committee. She is also a member of the QVNA Magazine editorial board.

Michael Schreiber is a writer living in Queen Village. Many of his articles on the history of Philadelphia and Early America appear on his website philahistory.org.

KATIE LOCKWOOD

AMY SHELANSKI

Katie Lockwood is a pediatrician and blogger who resides in Queen Village with her husband and two children. All opinions are her own and do not necessarily reflect those of The Children’s Hospital of Philadelphia.

Amy Shelanski is a real estate agent who has resided in Queen Village for over a decade. She previously served on the QVNA board and is currently on the zoning committee and Queen Village Magazine editorial board.

PIERS MARCHANT

DUNCAN SPENCER

Piers Marchant is a film critic and writer. Find more confounding amusements and diversions at his blog, sweetsmellosuccess. tumblr.com, or read his further 142-character rants and ravings at @kafkaesque83.

Duncan Spencer is the chair of the Friends of Weccacoe. He has lived in Queen Village since 1992, works in the film industry as a set builder, and is a residential and business landlord on Fabric Row.

JIM MURPHY

HILARY YOUNG

Jim Murphy is a freelance writer who focuses on Philly history. He also writes a blog for Old Pine Community Center and is vice president of the Association of Philadelphia Tour Guides.

Hilary Young is a Queen Village mom and owner of Hilary Young Creative, a content and marketing service for small businesses.

On the cover: The Columbus Boulevard side of the proposed "Christian Street Garden Park" at Gloria Dei (Old Swedes') Church. Image courtesy of the Community Design Collaborative.

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QVNA MAGAZINE 2nd Place National Winner 2016 & 2017 NUSA Newsletter Competition Submission Deadlines July 2018 Issue Advertising: June 15, 2018 Editorial: June 10, 2018

EDITORIAL BOARD Amy Grant Eleanor Ingersoll Jim Murphy Peter Ross Amy Shelanski Duncan Spencer

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QVNA Magazine Volume 4, No. 3, is published bi-monthly (January, March, May, July, September, November) by Queen Village Neighbors Association, a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization (Federal ID# 23-2025152). All contributions are tax-deductible.

May 2018 07

A Letter From The President Hello Neighbors, It’s high time I introduce myself if I haven’t done so already; my name is Eleanor Ingersoll and I am president of the board of directors of Queen Village Neighbors Association. To let you know a little about me, I have lived in Queen Village for 19 years. I met my husband, Scott Koruba, on the Front Street green, thanks to our dogs. We are parents to three children and our 4th four-legged family member, Ember. Eleanor Ingersoll Summer Safety Tips for Queen Village Residents • Please DON’T give money to area panhandlers. • Please DO give money to street musicians, magicians, and artists. Encouraging positive street activity helps deter negative street activity. • Please DO install an exterior light if you don’t have one. • Please DO turn on your exterior lights and consider a timer, so it’s on if you’re not home. • Please DO register your existing security camera with the Philadelphia Police Department, or consider installing one. Go to safecam.phillypolice.com to register. • Please DO throw a block party! Remind our visitors that Queen Village is a place where people live. Download an application at www.philadelphiastreets.com.

Did You Know?

• Last summer, the Philadelphia Police Department confiscated 87 motorcycles from South Street. • From May to August, 25-30 additional police officers are deployed on and around South Street from Broad to Front. • The Philadelphia Police Department is working hard to certify additional bicycle officers. This year, the entire Police Academy graduating class is bicycle-certified.

I began volunteering with QVNA in 2007 via the Friends of Weccacoe Playground and continued up through its current playground renovations. I began volunteering at Nebinger in 2012 via the schools & youth committee. In 2014, I joined the QVNA board and began leading the schools & youth committee. In June of 2017, I became president of the board. The president’s column in this magazine took a hiatus for a bit, as the board took some time to reassess the mission and goals of the association. While we are still putting together a strategic framework, we have made some significant strides; we are fortunate to have office manager Jake Peterson join the team. A retired accountant, Jake and his wife have been Queen Village residents for 15 years. Jake has a passion for numbers and organization - and we are better for it! We are also delighted to introduce acting executive director, Lucy Erdelac. A resident of Queen Village for over 30 years, Lucy comes to the association with 25 years of experience in writing, project management and non-profit board leadership. We hope you will notice not only the buzz in the office at Weccacoe, but also the changes to our weekly eNews, and an uptick in timely information and announcements on our Facebook Page. In addition, we’re initiating “micro-volunteer” opportunities that accommodate busy schedules by performing a finite task. Interested? You can reach me at president@qvna.org, Lucy at execdirector@qvna.org or Jake at info@qvna.org. Also a priority on this list, supporting and promoting South Street as the major commercial thoroughfare in Queen Village. Summer in the city means South Street will see an increase in foot and car traffic as city dwellers, suburban visitors and out-of-state tourists come to get a taste of what one of the city’s most famous streets has to offer. But South Street is flanked by streets of year-round residents. Check out the highlighted ideas for how residents can support both South Street and the neighborhood, courtesy of South Street Headhouse District and the South Street Police Mini Station. I look forward to meeting you — feel free to drop me a line.

QVNA Helps Make Queen Village Safer

Your tax-deductible contribution to QVNA helps support the ongoing operations of the South Street Police Detail and the Mini-Station, and so much more. Please support us at QVNA.org/donate.

08 May 2018

CMY

W W W. F I R E B A L L P R I N T I N G. C O M

May 2018 09

A Peach Of A Botanist BY PETER ROSS AND AMY GRANT Portions of this article were adapted from a report prepared by Lori Aument for the Community Design Collaborative.

Many local residents may not realize Queen Village is actually older than the City of Philadelphia. “Philadelphia’s First Neighborhood” was settled by Swedish immigrants in 1654, 28 years before William Penn founded Pennsylvania. These early Swedish settlers laid the foundation for a residential community that continues to thrive today. Yet, walking the densely-packed streets of Queen Village, one would be hard-pressed to find evidence of their time here. Centuries of development have turned grassy knolls into streets and intersections. The vast wilderness that once lay to the west of the Delaware River is now a thicket of buildings. Long gone are the large parcels of land dotted with wooden structures and fruitful gardens that our predecessors called home. What we know about this long lost landscape can be gleaned from the journal of Swedish botanist and explorer Pehr Kalm (1716-1779). When Kalm traveled to Philadelphia in 1748 and 1751, he wrote extensively about the people he encountered, the places he visited, and the nature he explored. Because he used the modern Latin binomial nomenclature system, we have a thorough historical record of the plants, trees, shrubs, and vines that once filled our terrain. Kalm’s initial observations of Philadelphia were made from the ship that brought him to the city. At a great distance from the shore, he marveled at the thick forest of oak, hickory and fir trees that lined the riverbanks. Closer to land, he delighted at farm houses “surrounded with corn fields, pastures well stocked with cattle, and meadows covered with fine hay.” Shortly after disembarking, Kalm compiled a listing of the bountiful foliage indigenous to the area. White, red, and Spanish oaks, hickory, and blackberry shrubs were the five most common plants he catalogued. He also discovered that red maple, smooth sumac, elderberry, willow oak, and multiple kinds of grape vines, such as the fox grape and frost grape, grew in abundance. Gloria Dei Church, located in what was then called “Weekacko,” figured prominently in Kalm’s writings as did its surroundings. Sycamore trees that grew “on the shore of the river” and near homes and gardens provided “pleasant shade in the hot season.” Mulberry trees, which are a fixture at Gloria Dei today, were “planted on some hillocks near” houses or inside courtyards. Black walnut and chestnut trees also grew in the woods and in fields near the church. Kalm was impressed by the abundance of fresh fruit that “every countryman, even a common peasant” was able to produce. He described local peach trees as “covered with such quantities of fruit, that we could scarcely walk … without treading upon those peaches which were fallen off.” 10 May 2018

Kalmia latifolia, commonly called mountain laurel, calico-bush or spoonwood, was identifed by Pehr Kalm during his travels in North America. It is the state flower of Pennsylvania.

During his botanical excursions, Kalm identified the “Spoon tree,” a species ostensibly used by Native Americans for forging spoons. He noted that “the fine branches of this tree, which are then thick covered with leaves” served as decorations at “churches on christmas day or new-years day.” Carolus Linnæus, Kalm’s mentor and friend, later named this new genus Kalmia latifolia to honor Kalm’s discovery. The “very pleasant country” town of Philadelphia measured no “more than an English mile in length” with a breadth of “half a mile or more” during Kalm’s visit. However, he noted that the wooded areas located west of the city were rapidly being cleared for construction and industrial purposes. Cedar trees, commonly used for roofing material, were starting to become rare as early as 1748. “Swamps and Morasses formerly were full of them,” he wrote, “but at present these trees are for the greatest part cut down, and no attempt has as yet been made to plant new ones.” The increase in brick kilns and iron works also placed a high demand on wood for fuel. Kalm noted that “in the space of a few years [fuel has] risen in price to many times as much again as it had been.” As a result of the rapid growth noted by Kalm, Philadelphia and its close suburbs was fast becoming the largest urban concentration in Britain’s North American colonies.

P A G E

Kalmâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Common Plants of Philadelphia of 1748 From Kalm Travels in North America: Common Plants of the Woods of Philadelphia in 1748 in order of most to least prevalent: 1. Quercus alba, the white oak. 2. Quercus rubra, or the black oak. 3. Quercus hispanica, the Spanish oak. 4. Juglans [Carya] alba, hiccory [sic], a kind of walnut tree. 5. Rubus occidentalis, or American blackberry shrub. 6. Acer rubrum, the maple tree with red flowers. 7. Rhus glabra, the smooth leaved Sumach [sic]. 8. Vitis labrusca and Vulpina, vines of several kinds. 9. Sambucus canadensis, American Elder tree. 10. Quercus phellos, the swamp oak. 11. Azalea lutea, the American upright honey-suckle [sic]. 12. Crataegus Crus galli, the Virginian Azarole. 13. Vaccinium -------, a species of whortleberry shrub. 14. Quercus prinus, the chesnut [sic] oak. 15. Cornus florida, the cornelian cherry. 16. Liriodendron Tulipifera, the tulip tree. 17. Prunus virginiana, the wild cherry tree. 18. Vaccinium -------, a frutex whortleberry. 19. Prinos verticillatus, the winterberry tree. 20. Platanus occidentalis, the water-beech. 21. Nyssa aquatica, the tupelo tree. 22. Liquidambar styraciflua, sweet gum tree. 23. Betula Alnus, alder. 24. Fagus castanea, the chesnut [sic] tree. 25. Juglans nigra, the black walnut tree. 26. Rhus radicans, the twining sumach [sic]. 27. Acer Negundo, the ash-leaved maple. 28. Prunus domestica, the wild plumb [sic] tree. 29. Ulmus Americana, the white elm. 30. Prunus spinosa, sloe shrub. 31. Laurus sassafras, the sassafras tree. 32. Ribes nigrum, the currant tree. 33. Fraxinus excelsior, the ash tree. 34. Smilax laurifolia, the rough bind weed with the bay leaf. 35. Kalmia latifolia, the American dwarf laurel. 36. Morus rubra, the mulberry tree. 37. Rhus vernix, the poisonous Sumach [sic]. 38. Quercus rubra, the red oak. 39. Hamamelis virginica, the witch hazel. 40. Diospyros virginiana, the persimon [sic]. 41. Pyrus coronaria, the anchor tree. 42. Juniperus virginiana, the red juniper. 43. Laurus oestvalis, spice-wood. 44. Carpinus ostrya, a species of horn beam. 45. Carpinus betulus, a horn beam. 46. Fagus sylvatica, the beech. 47. Juglans ------, a species of walnut tree. 48. Pinus Americana, Pensylvanian [sic] fir tree. 49. Betula lenta, a species of birch. 50. Cephalantus occidentalis, button wood. 51. Pinus toeda, the New Jersey fir tree. 52. Cercis canadensis, the sallad [sic] tree. 53. Robinia pseudacacia, the locust tree. 54. Magnolia glauca, the laurel-leaved tulip tree. 55. Tilia Americana, the lime tree. 56. Gleditsia triacanthos, the honey locust tree. 57. Celtis occidentalis, the nettle tree. 58. Annona muricata, the custard apple.

Mike Duffy 215. 886. 6111 | Oreland, Pa 215. 725. 3637 | Philadelphia, Pa Certified Arborist PD-1766A 215. 572. 6937 | Fax www.libertytreecare.com

May 2018 11

Sven’s Woods: Bringing More Wildlife To Gloria Dei BY MICHAEL SCHREIBER

The passenger pigeon was a dominant bird species in the Philadelphia area two centuries ago.

Plate 23 in Volume 1 of The Natural History of Carolina, Florida and Bahamas by Mark Catesby and George Edwards published in 1754. The proposal to restore a portion of land at Gloria Dei (Old Swedes’) Church in Philadelphia to help attract wildlife is very timely. Its status as a National Historical Park and location within a big city can help make Gloria Dei a prominent example of ecological land management others can copy.

large areas of plate glass — are responsible for the deaths of a great number of birds. An estimated 40,000 birds a year collide with buildings while migrating in the skies over Philadelphia.

The new project has been dubbed “Sven’s Woods,” after Swedish settlers Sven Gunnarsson and his son Sven Swanson, who both lived there in the 17th century. The new wooded area would extend efforts at nearby Washington Avenue Green to transform former industrial properties along the Delaware River into parkland, restoring them with native plants and trees.

Increased flooding is another consequence of the steady process of covering our landscape in concrete. This coincides with climate changes during the last half-century, in which average annual precipitation from heavy storms has increased 70 percent in the Northeastern U.S. Rising temperatures in the future will melt snow earlier in spring and dry the soil during the summer — intensifying flooding during the cold season, while bringing drought in the hotter months of the year.

On the whole, habitat for wildlife continues to erode in the Philadelphia area as woods and farmland are bulldozed for housing, highways and shopping centers. Moreover, contemporary architectural practices — taller buildings, increased lighting of buildings and the current style of using

Some agencies estimate that because of climate change, and the fact that the Delaware Valley is sinking, the river could rise as much as four feet by 2040, inundating large areas of Philadelphia. (The EPA, more conservatively, estimates “by the end of the century.” But of course, the amount and rapidity of sea level rise

12 May 2018

will depend on the degree to which people are able to mitigate the build-up of greenhouse gases in the atmosphere.) Large areas of Philadelphia close to the waterfront — such as the Navy Yard and the airport — could be submerged, and even the area adjacent to Gloria Dei Church could encounter heavy flooding. There is a corresponding threat that the rise in salinity of Delaware River water will endanger our drinking supply and destroy much of the tree life along the river. This underlines the importance of conserving green areas on the riverbanks, and of protecting the habitat of wildlife that will be under increasing stress. On the Atlantic flyway Although the proposed woodland at Gloria Dei would be fairly small in area, it lies strategically along the Atlantic flyway and at the juncture with a branch flyway from the upper Midwest. Nearby areas like the Heinz National Wildlife Refuge are a magnet for migrating waterfowl and songbirds. Nevertheless, the number of birds has declined markedly from when the region was still mainly rural. Two centuries ago, for example, the passenger pigeon was the dominant bird species in the area; flocks sometimes contained over a million birds. Now the species is extinct. During their semi-annual migration to and from South America, bobolinks (known as “reed birds” in this region) regularly stopped to feed in the marshes and meadows that existed just south of Gloria Dei. In fact, their numbers probably multiplied in the 18th century as the forests were cut down for farm fields — but now they are much rarer. Mechanical threshers kill legions of young bobolinks each year in the Pennsylvania hayfields. Yet all is not bleak. The Audubon Society’s 2016 Mid-Winter Bird Census points out that Philadelphia, despite the fact that it is heavily developed, has one of the most diverse bird populations of any county in Pennsylvania. Although a few species are declining in numbers in the city, mainly due to habitat loss, the census still recorded 107 species of birds last year, including a few rare ones. Enhancing the habitat at Gloria Dei can help feed and protect the birds and keep their numbers up. Looking backward through the centuries To begin to restore the land, it is useful to understand what it looked like before it was built upon. To do that, we must look far back — over 350 years ago, when Swedish and Finnish farmers began to settle the area. The Swedes called the area “Wicaco,” their abbreviated version of the name given to it by the Lenni Lenape people, who had lived in the region for thousands of years. Since that era, at least two generations of buildings were constructed in the area of the Gloria Dei property being ecologically restored. In the 18th and early 19th century, a number of houses were built there. Later, most of the houses were replaced by industrial buildings. A lye works and a soap manufacturer operated there in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. About 40 years ago, the remaining buildings were

An artist's conception of the wooden church of 1677 and Sven Gunnarsson's farmhouse.

cleared by the National Park Service, and trees and grass were planted. Of course, it is not possible to restore the area to its appearance in the 17th century. Too many radical changes have taken place in the interim — the creeks covered over, wetlands drained, and forests cut down. The shores of the river have been moved much further east, and the land covered with buildings and parking lots. Gloria Dei is now surrounded on three sides by heavily trafficked streets and highways — including the elevated I-95 expressway. Noise from trucks is a constant factor, and we might expect to find a significant amount of pollution in the soil and air. Another example of modern landscape adaptations is the presence of a large ginko tree on the Gloria Dei grounds. The tree was probably planted with good intentions by the National Park Service, but ginkos are native to China, not Pennsylvania. Nevertheless, it would be useful to try to recreate in the selection of plants a representation, a small glimpse, of what used to be. For a National Historical Park, education in history is obviously a key part of the mission. Identifying labels might indicate, for example, which plants were used by the Lenape people or early European colonists for food, medicines, basket weaving, etc. A narrow ridge along the river Gloria Dei Church was built towards the northern end of a low ridge paralleling the Delaware River, just south of the outlet of Wicaco Creek (the creek ran close to what is now Christian Street). The current church building, begun in 1698 and consecrated in 1700, is at the highest point of the ridge, sitting perhaps 15 feet above the high tide of the river. In his “Annals of Philadelphia in the Olden Times” (first published in 1830), John Fanning Watson said that the hill where the present church sits was lowered about eight feet from its original height, while the ground surrounding the hill was raised in height. He pointed out that the stone foundations of the church, which are now exposed on the Swanson Street side, used to be completely underground. Nevertheless, most of the ridge probably remains fairly close to its original height, since graves in the churchyard that predate the church building remain buried. The oldest date that is still readily visible on tombstones close to the church is 1708, but the first burials probably took place on the property over three May 2018 13

Gloria Dei and its churchyard appear in the lower right corner of John Hillson’s 1796 map of the southern portion of Philadelphia.

Library of Congress, Geography and Map Division

decades earlier. (A fortified wooden church was established there in 1677, and it is thought that Sven Gunnarsson, who died around 1680, was one of the first to be buried in the churchyard.)

afforded a relatively clear route through the forests for the Lenape people to travel from the west. And the Swedish settlers followed the same route to attend their church at Wicaco.

The Wicaco ridge extended south almost half a mile to about where Wharton Street is today. At that point, the land dropped into a valley, through which a small creek ran into the Delaware (just south of what became Reed Street in 1829). Continuing along the river to the south, the land was relatively flat and open (this was called Wicacoa Meadows in the second half of the 18th century), and it became marshy further south in the vicinity of Hay Creek (also called Moyamensing Creek, around presentday Oregon Avenue).

Families living near the small village and trading post at Kingsessing, on the west bank of the Schuylkill, or in the vicinity of the Lutheran parsonage (glebe house) on the east bank, took the paths that later became the Passyunk Road and the Moyamensing Road. They then met another path following Wicaco Creek, which they followed to the banks of the Delaware.

In 1654, the Dutch governor granted the 1125-acre tract of Wicaco—all the land above Hay Creek, extending two and a half miles to the north— to Sven Gunnarsson and his sons, the “Swanson” family. That was one of the governor’s last acts, since the English conquered the Dutch at New Amsterdam during the same year, and the Delaware Valley was put under English rule. Wicaco Creek What remains of Wicaco Creek now runs in a large sewer under Christian Street. In earlier times, the little creek and its valley 14 May 2018

The historic creek valley was lower and steeper as it descended to the river than Christian Street is today. John Fanning Watson pointed out in his mid-19th-century “Annals of Philadelphia” that some older houses along Christian Street, just north of Gloria Dei, showed definite signs that the land around them had been raised. It could be seen, said Watson, that their current underground cellars were once used as ground-floor parlors, and people were now obliged to enter the houses through what used to be their second floors. Watson indicates, from conversations with elderly residents of the district, that there once was a wide inlet where Wicaco Creek flowed into the Delaware — deep enough so boats could float

in it. But that “fact,” based on people’s childhood memories, is difficult to verify. Maps of the 18th century show neither an inlet nor the creek itself — suggesting that the creek had been both shallow and narrow, and that whatever inlet might have existed was soon covered over by the Swanson Street causeway and wharves in the Delaware. However, a pond at Second and Queen Streets, which probably was linked to the creek, does appear on maps even at the end of the 18th century. The valley of Wicaco Creek was connected to the small stream valley in the south (near Reed Street) by a gully or ravine, just to the west of Gloria Dei, where Water Street is now located. This ravine appears on maps even at the end of the 18th century (see John Hill’s 1796 map, for example). Watson, writing in the early 19th century, pointed out that the “remarkably low ground” to the west of Gloria Dei still existed and that it had a pebbly surface, suggesting that it once communicated with the Delaware River. Thus, it appears that the land on which Gloria Dei sits might once have been a small island, surrounded by water. It is doubtful, however, that this condition still existed by the time the Swedish settlers, now under English governance, built their fortified church there. Yet the fact that the high ground at Wicaco not only commanded the river, but was surrounded on three sides by a gully, must have had distinct advantages for defense against invaders. In the next century, Benjamin Franklin and others built a battery on the ridge to protect the city of Philadelphia. On the western side of the Water Street depression, the land rose again, with a hilltop around present-day Fifth and Federal Streets, where the mansion of the Wharton family, Walnut Grove, was built in the early 18th century. That hill was a continuation of a ridge that extended northeast, with its highest point at Society Hill (now Front and Lombard Streets). According to J. Thomas Scharf’s and Thompson Wescott’s “History of Philadelphia, 1609-1884,” the city’s bluffs and ridges along the Delaware were formed partly by movement of glaciers. That does not seem correct to me, since the glaciers did not penetrate this far south in the Delaware Valley (stopping on a line more or less directly west of New York City). It was likely the action of the river itself, as it cut its way along the western edge of the sandy and gravelly soil of the Atlantic coastal plain, that was largely responsible for the series of parallel ridges characteristic of southeastern Philadelphia. What trees were at Wicaco? It is not unlikely that the Wicaco ridge was forested, since we know that deep forest covered the high ground just to the north, where William Penn purchased land from Sven Gunnarsson’s sons to build his city of Philadelphia. Early settlers reported that the land was covered by vast stands of tall and ancient trees — perhaps over a million trees just in the area within the boundaries of Penn’s city. There was a relatively small amount of younger undergrowth, permitting people to often walk unobstructed through the forest. Although diverse species of hardwood (deciduous) trees predominated, coniferous trees were also there in abundance. The Lenape name for the area was “Coaquannock,” the “place of pines” or “grove of tall pines,” which we might assume was a notable feature of at least one portion of what became Penn’s land.

Penn wrote: “The soil is good — air serene and sweet from the cedar, pine, and sassafras.” And Penn referred to other trees on the land: Black walnut, chestnut, poplar, gumwood, hickory, ash, beech, oak (white, black, and red), white and red mulberry, etc. Some of these trees gave their names to east-west streets in the new city. Deeds for land to the south of the city, where meadow predominated, mentioned some of the same trees as landmarks. Thus, a 1684 patent that Penn gave to Lasse Andrews and other farmers maps out the boundaries by stating: “Begin at an oak by the side of Hollander’s Creek … SW to an oak by Hay Creek, NW to an ash by swampside parcel of meadow … poplar by Hay Creek … to oak by Rosemond Creek.” The same species of large trees probably appeared on Wicaco ridge. The map of the Delaware River Valley produced by Swedish engineer Peter Lindstrom in 1654-1655 notes a place called “Wichqua Coing” in the Lenni Lenape language. Thomas Campanius Holm, in his “Description of the Province of New Sweden” (1642, translated 1834), uses a similar name, “Wiquakonich.” That is sometimes translated as being derived from “wikquek” (“head of creek”) and “kuwe” (“pine tree”), or “the grove of pine trees next to the head of a creek.” And many believe that Europeans shortened “Wiquakonich” into “Wicaco,” in a reference to the land around what is now Gloria Dei. But this is merely speculation. For our purposes, it is not possible to definitely conclude from Lindstrom’s map or Camapanius’s manuscript that a specific grove of pines stood next to Wicaco Creek, although pines and other conifers, such as Atlantic white cedars, were numerous in the area. The only definite reference I could find concerning the trees at Gloria Dei appeared in Watson’s “Annals.” Watson states from his conversations with people who could remember how the area appeared in the mid-18th century that “an old stand of large water-beech or buttonwood trees” stood near Sven Gunnarsson’s house and also by “the Swedes Church.” He said that one was still standing in his own time (around the 1830s). Watson’s tree identification is confusing, however. Buttonwood trees are a popular name for sycamores, not water beeches. And water beeches are a species common in the American South, not in Pennsylvania. So were these ancient trees sycamores, water beeches, or perhaps a native species of beech tree? In another confusing example, Penn refers to “a wild myrtle of great fragrance” that he found in Philadelphia. However, no true myrtles are native to the Americas. It will take quite a few more years until the new Sven’s Woods is planted, and many years after that until the trees are mature. Before any planting takes place, we can expect that arborists will carefully review what species of trees might be best for the area. They will naturally take into account the fact that this is no longer a pristine portion of “Penn’s Woods,” but a neighborhood within a large, noisy, and polluted city. Also, trees will have to be chosen to withstand the effects of climate change. And finally, the new woodland will have to be designed to encourage the visits of people — and their four-footed companions (on a leash, of course) — along with wild creatures such as birds, butterflies, chipmunks, salamanders, and bats. May 2018 15

Gloria Dei 3.0: Greener And More Glorious The proposed Christian Street Garden Park reclaims dead space along Columbus Boulevard, improves Gloria Dei's visibility and makes it easier for pedestrians to connect with the riverfront. Other features include: 1

Planting tall trees to create shaded areas

2 Installing pathway and overhead lighting 3 Building a rain garden and fountain 4 Adding underplantings along the path 5 Creating seating areas

6 Building a pathway out of pavers 7 Increasing visibility of the church building 8 Creating space for programming

5 4

Images Courtesy of the Community Design Collaborative

B A

A C

A E

The Community Design Collaborative plan divides the property up into three main areas: Sven's Woods, Gloria Dei Church and the Christian Street Garden Park. For greater accessibility, several new entrances are indicated: A pedestrian entrance, B crosswalk to future Delaware River trail, C parking with subsurface stormwater, D main vehicle entrance, E vehicle maintenance entrance. Project number 2017-07

(Old Swedes) Church: Celebrating History/Planning for the Future GloriaDei Dei (Old Swedes) Church: Re-creating History/Planning for the Future Project Name Gloria

Date

2017 BYScale JIMOct MURPHY AND AMY GRANT Drawing Title 1” = 60’

Proposed Site Diagram

Get ready, get set and grab your popcorn.

Interesting things are happening at Gloria Dei (Old Swedes’) Church. A gorgeous new design concept to revitalize the grounds and provide more public green space has already been developed. So let's take a look. If the plan ever gets accepted and funded, the end result will be a wonderfully serene and pleasant spot for everyone in the Queen Village area to enjoy. Among the obvious advantages: more woodland, a bird sanctuary, easier entry from Water Street and more public and community space along Columbus Boulevard. Here's the plan: Developed by a volunteer team of architects, engineers, historians and other skilled professionals from the Community Design Collaborative, the plan recommends dividing the site into three main areas: 18 May 2018

0’

60’

120’

The Community Desi to provide visual conc planning. All drawing are neither intended n Neither the Communi volunteers assume re accuracy of drawings

• Sven’s Woods to the south • The Gloria Dei Church site at the core • Christian Street Garden Park on the north fronting

Columbus Boulevard

Part 1: Sven’s Woods The plan proposes gradually establishing a small woodland, removing the old amphitheater and replacing lawn areas with trees and understory plantings. It also includes handicapped accessible paths, a nature play station, and interpretive signage. In addition, new lighting and benches would be placed along the path. The brick wall along the east side of this area would be pushed out to the edge of the site, recovering what's now dead space outside the wall. Plus a new entrance would connect directly to the Delaware River and the park proposed for the adjacent wharf there.

Plant and Materials Legend Understory planting Turf lawn Lawn restoration Perennial planting

Shrub planting Bioretention Brick Bluestone

Part 2: Gloria Dei Church Site

In addition, a decorative screen and plantings will shield the The Community Desi park from Re-creating the proposed nearby parking plan allots (Old Swedes) Church: Celebrating History/Planning for the Future GloriaDei Dei (Old Swedes) Church: History/Planning forlot. the The Future Project Name Gloria to provide visual conc 2017-07 planning. All drawing space for a potential new building here, incorporating that To Date preserve the peaceful atmosphere of the church site and are neither intended Oct 2017 area into the garden the meantime. Neither the Commun burial grounds, the plan includes a low wrought iron- Proposed fence Diagram Planting Plan -inPhase 2 Final Scale Drawing Title volunteers assume re = 60’church portion of the site. Higher wrought iron around1”the N accuracy of drawings 0’ 60’ 120’ Fixing a dead zone fences would enclose the private yard space of the two residences there. Moreover, the plan helps solve a dead area at the northeast corner, where the current plaza is about 2 ½ feet below Other changes here: a new granite entry plaza as you the grade of the Christian Street green space. Using a new approach from Water Street, plus a two-way driveway stairway and ramp to overcome the grade change, it extends for easier turnarounds. It replaces the current one-way the plaza through to Columbus Boulevard and will improve driveway from Christian Street. The parking lot also includes connections with the waterfront. subsurface stormwater management. Project number

Part 3: Christian Street Garden Park Here, the plan reclaims space along Christian Street, now under-used, to accommodate dog walking, free play and picnics. Relocating public, community space along Christian Street will provide better access to the whole site, improve Gloria Dei's visibility and make it far easier for pedestrians to connect with the riverfront area. The plan also includes new plantings, paths, seating, lighting and signage in that section.

A new rain garden will manage stormwater and supply a new fountain that will serve as a focal point along Columbus Boulevard. Light bollards will line the plaza along the street, too. Unique site opportunities … and challenges The site includes both the oldest church in Pennsylvania and a National Historic Park – with significant architectural and historic treasures. Plus, renowned ornithologist Alexander Wilson is buried May 2018 19

5 4

The plan for Sven's Woods features: 1 trees, 2 benches, 3 nature play stations, 4 understory plantings, 5 handicapped accessible pathways.

here, and his work could be presented and explored with supported programming. However, the less-than-5-acre property is surrounded by highly trafficked roads on three sides, making pedestrian access difficult. And an elevated highway isolates it from residences west of Front Street. The result: Visitors rarely venture here. Gloria Dei may be the best-kept secret in Queen Village, and is our largest underutilized open space. Unfortunately, years of wear and tear have also taken their toll â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the church building and churchyard need significant repairs and upgrades. And while the church has an active congregation, like many other religious institutions these days, it operates under a tight budget. The players involved at Gloria Dei The National Park Service Gloria Dei Church Historic Gloria Dei Preservation Corporation Community Design Collaborative The City of Philadelphia Historic Timeline: 1942: The church building is designated a National Historic Site. The newly formed National Park Service (NPS) signs an 20 May 2018

agreement with the congregation that same year to turn the property into a living landmark and surround it with green space. NPS also builds a concrete amphitheater to host outdoor concerts and lecture series. 2014: After years of dwindling crowds and seeing the need for repairs, local preservationists form the Historic Gloria Dei Preservation Corporation (HGDPC). Its task: restore, maintain and protect the site's historic elements. 2016: HGDPC applies to the Community Design Collaborative (Collaborative) for assistance and wins a design grant. The Collaborative suggests developing a site master plan that ties into the master plan of the Central Delaware. 2016 to 2018: The Collaborative volunteer team meets with HGDPC representatives on-site; it also facilitate two community task force meetings, and meets with HGDPC and NPS to ensure coordination and discuss possible ways to move forward. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s where we are now What do you think? Do you like what you have heard and seen? Can you imagine how much enjoyment the site portrayed here could bring all of us in Queen Village? Then stay tuned. We will update you on progress and tell you how you can become involved.

Jenny Lind Sang In Queen Village BY MICHAEL SCHREIBER learned that Lind had managed to avoid them, they packed the street in front of the hotel. Although it was late at night, they shouted for the singer to make an appearance. The Philadelphia North American reported, “The clamor was kept up until Jenny Lind herself appeared upon the piazza, led by Barnum. She walked up to the railing, waved her handkerchief to the mob for a minute or two, covering her face with another.” In his later autobiography, however, Barnum revealed that he had staged a deception: Lind’s traveling companion, Katrina Ahmansen, had masqueraded as the singer on the balcony. Portrait of Swedish singer Jenny Lind (1820-1887), retouched Calotype photo, probably 1840s. Courtesy of Nordiska museet (Nordic Museum) Stockholm, Sweden.

Jenny Lind was the first international superstar of the musical world. The frenzy over her visit to the United States in 1850 even surpassed that of the “British Invasion” by the Beatles a century later. Yet those who met the “Swedish Nightingale” described her as being incredibly modest and generous. She donated large sums to charities and the poor, and gave free concerts at Swedish churches in America – including one at Gloria Dei (Old Swedes’) Church here in Queen Village. Lind’s visit to this country was arranged by master showman Phineas T. Barnum. He offered Lind the unheard-of sum of $1000 for 150 concerts, plus a share of the profits. Barnum was at his newly opened museum in Philadelphia in February 1850 when he received word that Jenny Lind had agreed to his terms. But the showman had difficulty raising capital for Lind’s tour. A Philadelphia minister, the Rev. Abel C. Thomas, lent Barnum the final $5000 that was needed. Barnum initiated a massive publicity campaign. He devised a contest with a $200 prize for a theme song, “Greeting to America,” that Lind would sing upon her arrival. Several hundred librettos were submitted, and Chester County poet Bayard Taylor won the prize. The Philadelphia Public Ledger headlined one article, “The Jenny Lind Fever,” and indeed, the newspapers steadily stoked the mania surrounding her U.S. tour. Jenny Lind perfume and hair pomade, available at Bazin’s perfumery on Chestnut St., were examples of products that took advantage of her fame. Printed music for her songs cost “only six cents the sheet” at Ferrett & Co. on Eighth St. Lind arrived in Philadelphia on Oct. 16, 1850, after a grueling journey following concert appearances in New York and New England. She took passage on a ship down the Delaware River, disembarking north of Philadelphia at Tacony. There she boarded a steamer Barnum had chartered, the Edwin Forrest, which traveled only as far as Kensington, where a carriage waited to take her to Jones’s hotel on Chestnut Street. To avoid notice, she entered the hotel by the back door. In the meantime, a huge crowd had gathered to greet her at the Walnut Street Wharf – her expected landing place. When fans

The Inquirer described the scene on opening night, Oct. 17, at the Chestnut Street Theatre: “The spectacle was, indeed, fairy-like. The splendid dresses, the bright eyes, the flushed cheeks, the eager expectation depicted on every countenance, the brilliant gas-lights, and the whisperings and buzzings of many voices served to produce an unwonted excitement.” The music critic for the North American reported that the audience cheered as Jenny Lind entered and approached the footlights. After a number of low bows, her recitative to Bellini’s “Come per me sereno” began. However, “whether from a cold or the excitement of the occasion, there was a want of purity and clearness in Jenny Lind’s first utterances, which was evidently noticed by the whole house.” In the second part of the concert, Lind and baritone Giovanni Belletti sang a duet from Rossini’s “Turco in Italia.” The North American stated, “It is in this piece that the first evidence was given by Miss Lind of those powers to which her eminence as a vocalist is due. … We felt for the first time how versatile were her vocal gifts – for here was a legitimate and artistic power, no trickery, no mere clap-trap.” In his 1851 commemorative book, “Jenny Lind in America,” C.G. Rosenberg wrote: “On the following Sunday [Oct. 20], a sensation, of no common character, was created amongst the congregation of the Protestant Episcopal Church of Gloria Dei, in Swanson street – better known as the ‘Old Swedes’ Church – by Mdlle. Jenny Lind’s attendance on Divine worship within its walls. At the close of the service she received the greetings of numerous descendants of the pioneer emigrants from her own native land, who had settled on the banks of the Delaware, and were the original founders of the aged edifice, within whose walls she had bent in supplication.” It is said that Lind climbed into the upper gallery of the church, constructed five years earlier, from which she sang, “I know that my redeemer liveth,” from George F. Handel’s “Messiah.” In December, Lind returned to Philadelphia for a series of concerts at Musical Fund Hall. At that time, the pastor at Gloria Dei, the Rev. Jehu Curtis Clay, helped arrange a donation from the singer to the Southwark Soup Society on Hancock St. Jenny Lind’s 1850 visit to Gloria Dei will be commemorated on June 8 by a concert at the church. For details, visit www. preserveoldswedes.org.

May 2018 21 21

American Beaver Near Sven’s Woods BY DUNCAN SPENCER

American Beaver by John James Audubon, 1844. Courtesy of the Brooklyn Museum.

Plans are in the works for a redesign of the large, complex area bounded by Washington Avenue, Delaware Avenue, Christian Street and Water Street – generally referred to by its most important and prominent feature, Gloria Dei (Old Swedes’) Church. One proposed redesign element is an area to be known as Sven’s Woods, which would be a “naturalized” forest area on the Delaware Avenue side of the parcel. There just happens to be another naturalized parcel on the other side of the road along the Delaware River, where plans of a different nature are underway. The place is Washington Avenue Green (Pier 53). The planners, in this case, are not the Community Design Collaborative, but “nature’s engineer:” Castor Canadensis, or the North American Beaver. You can see them there early in the morning and at sundown. I suppose we should not be surprised. In 2008, Science Daily reported sighting a beaver in the Bronx River just off Manhattan Island for the first time in 200 years. They named him Jose. He has been embraced by the local community, and is seen as a testament to local cleanup efforts. Beavers were also sighted in Chicago’s Lincoln Park and in San Francisco, just outside the city limits. A note to local Quakers: the Chicago Beaver was eradicated by local authorities, while the San Francisco Beaver was successfully protected by a conservation-minded group of locals calling themselves the “Worth a Dam” movement. Philly we need to name the Washington Avenue Beaver. The North American Beaver is native to this continent and traces

22 May 2018

its history back to the Eocene. That’s 33.9 million years ago. A giant species of beaver, Castoroides, grew as large as 7 feet and weighed up to 200 pounds. It became extinct along with the mammoth around 10,000 years ago. Beavers live on the tender bark of new and first-year growth of small hardwood trees and shrubs, such as quakingaspen, cottonwood, willow, alder, birch, maple and cherry trees. They also eat sedges, pondweed, and water lilies. Beavers build dams to create protective ponds for their winter lodges, and to aid in transporting their floating food source and building materials. The lodges are usually abandoned after ice season, and the beavers may roam for the rest of the summer season, returning again in the fall. They tend to have one to six new pups in the spring, and by August will chase away the one-year-old offspring from the previous mating season. In their time on this land, they have no doubt altered it more than our own Army Corp of Engineers has. Before European settlement, an estimated 60 million beavers ranged across North America. As recently as 1600, beaver ponds covered more than 10 percent of the territory around the upper Mississippi and Missouri rivers, according to Smithsonian Magazine. By 1988, the U.S. beaver population was 6–12 million. This population decline was the result of extensive hunting for fur, for glands used as medicine and perfume, and because beavers compete with humans for trees and land use. By 1840, beavers had been hunted and trapped close to extinction across most of the continent.

Beaver hunt from a medieval bestiary. The beaver at the bottom is about to bite off his own testicles. The beaver at the top, having already lost his, scampers off with an anguished expression. MS. Bodley 764, Folio 14r (c. 1250), Bodleian Library.

Wait a minute, I knew about the fur, but glands? Castoreum, a bitter-tasting secretion with a slightly fetid odor, is contained in the castor sacs of male or female beaver. The secretions were used in the 18th century to treat headache, fever and hysteria. Yupik Indians employed dried beaver testicles to relieve pain. Beaver testicles were also used as medicine in Iraq and Iran from the tenth to the nineteenth centuries. Aesop’s Fables comically describes beavers chewing off their testicles to preserve themselves from hunters. Across the pond, European Beavers (Castor fiber) were also hunted nearly to extinction for fur and for castoreum. A beaver produces castoreum after eating willow bark, which contains chemical salicin. It’s then transformed into salicylic acid, which has an effect very similar to aspirin. Today, castoreum is also an ingredient in perfume production. It’s largely used as an “animalic note” suggesting leather, which is then compounded with other smell ingredients. Some classic perfumes incorporating castor are Emeraude, Chanel Antaeus, Cuir de Russie, Magie Noire, Lancôme Caractère, Hechter Madame, Givenchy III, Shalimar, and many "leather" themed compositions. Beavers use castoreum, in combination with urine, as a scent to mark territory. We humans use the extract from the castor sacs of the mature North American Beaver to make the following confections, which you may soon feel differently about: Raspberry flavored candy, strawberry, vanilla, and raspberry ice-cream, Swedish Schnapps Bävergäll (Beaver Shot), baked goods, gelatin, pudding, soft candy, frozen dairy treats, hard candy and chewing gum. Castoreum is typically listed as “…and natural ingredients.” On March 4, 1681, King George II presented a Charter to William Penn, making him the proprietary authority over a tract of land, now known as Pennsylvania. Penn was required to annually pay the kingdom one-fifth of all the state’s silver and gold, and two beaver skins. My understanding is that the Delaware River is the largest undammed river in the lower 48. I suppose this may change if local beavers have their way.

May 2018 23

? Mulberry Margarita BY AMY SHELANSKI

Mulberry margaritas are great for summer sipping.

There is a very large, old Mulberry tree on the grounds of Gloria Dei (Old Swedes’) Church. You’ll find it in the large area to the south of the church. In late spring, it blooms and then delicious large dark purple berries appear. There are huge quantities of berries that fall from the tree - once ripe, a shake of a branch releases them. Mulberries don’t ripen all at same time. The white and red are hard and not ready to eat. Picking them requires some patience as they tend to fall very easily when ripe. You can tell when they’re ripe as they become slightly soft and a very dark purple. That’s when to head over there with a basket and harvest some wonderful free fruit.

Of the many ways to enjoy mulberries (eat them straight from the tree, make a pie, make jam, make wine) the best just might be a great summer entertainer - mulberry margaritas. Easy to make - create your own variation. 2 cups ripe mulberries 1 cup tequila (use reposada) Juice of one lime 1 oz. fruity liquor (Triple Sec, Elderflower, etc) Put all ingredients in a blender. Then strain the liquid. Put in pitcher with lots of ice, strain and serve.

Old Pine Street Church Bill Grubb, Associate Broker 610-220-6203 direct . 610-649-4500 office Bill.Grubb@foxroach.com www.grubbadvantage.com For a Free Market Snapshot of House Values go to BestPhillyHomeValues.com

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24 May 2018

The Fruits Of Your Labor BY DONNA PANCARI

Mulberry

Paw Paw

Fig

Nearly everywhere you look in Philadelphia, it’s obvious that the city and its residents value their trees. From brand new saplings planted by Tree Tenders to the beautiful old varieties in our historic parks, our urban trees help mitigate the effects of climate change, improve air quality and enhance natural habitats for birds and insects. Fruit trees do all this and provide food to boot. Contrary to popular belief, they don’t have to be any harder to care for than non-fruit bearing trees. Choose the right variety for your space and growing conditions, and you should be rewarded with a hyperlocal crop of ripe fruit. If you are interested in planting a fruit tree in your yard or patio, the two organizations below can help. • Tree Philly: Want a free fruit tree for your yard? Tree Philly has them. Sponsored by Philadelphia Parks and Recreation and The Fairmount Park Conservancy, Tree Philly holds tree giveaways at various locations throughout the spring and again in the fall. Each season’s giveaway trees vary – this spring, for example, Tree Philly offered apples and paw paws. Last summer, Tree Philly (in partnership with the Philadelphia Orchard Project, profiled below) even hosted three fruit tree workshops where participants could learn and practice various aspects of fruit tree care. • Philadelphia Orchard Project: While their mission is to plant and support community orchards in Philadelphia, the

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Philadelphia Orchard Project is a wonderful local resource for people looking to plant and care for a fruit tree of your own. Look to their website for a full calendar of local planting events, as well as extensive fruit tree selection, care and pruning guides. So what should you plant? Most dwarf varieties of fruit trees appropriate for hardiness zone 7B will work in pots, with an even greater assortment possible for those with space to plant in the ground. I’ve highlighted three uniquely Philly choices below. All three are recommended on the Philadelphia Orchard Project’s website for their relatively easy care and contribution to the pest and disease fighting diversity of our fruit bearing trees. • Mulberry: Growing happily on the grounds of Gloria Dei and many sidewalks and yards around the city, mulberries are an ideal fruit to grow yourself, since their short shelf life limits their availability at farmers’ markets. • Paw Paw: You may have seen the funny little green paw paw at the farmers’ market, where it has enjoyed renewed attention as a local fruit. Its unique taste is distinctly tropical. • Fig: Ubiquitous in parts of South Philly, fig trees have grown and thrived in our urban microclimate for decades. Winterizing is recommended, but they require little more than a sunny spot to produce fruit.

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May 2018 25

Natural Wonders For Philly Kids BY KATIE LOCKWOOD, MD A goal of the Gloria Dei project is to create space for children to interact with and explore nature. It’s always amazing when city kids have the opportunity to engage with nature in pockets of our urban landscape. Below are some of my favorite places for city kids to splash in puddles, hunt for bugs and climb on rocks within Philadelphia.

Bartram’s Garden https://bartramsgarden.org See the city from the Schuylkill River in a rowboat, go fishing, or explore the garden. The first Wednesday of each month, you and your toddler can join their Little Explorers educational program. Smith Playground https://smithplayground.org

Bartram's Garden

On this 6.5 acre playground, your children can climb traditional play structures or hop from tree trunks and make mud pies. Sister Cities https://centercityphila.org/parks/sister-cities-park A meandering stream leads to a small boat pond, surrounded by a backdrop of skyscrapers. Get wet, then dry off while eating a snack from the café. John Heinz at Tinicum

John Heinz at Tinicum

https://www.fws.gov/refuge/john_heinz At America’s first urban refuge, you can go fishing, canoe, or explore 10-miles of trails. This is a great destination for your budding bird-watcher. Forbidden Drive, Fairmount Park https://www.fow.org On Pennsylvania’s 2018 “Trail of the Year,” there are endless trail options where you can jog, ride bikes, or even push a stroller. Your kids will enjoy skipping rocks and collecting sticks and you will enjoy the fresh air and shade of the trees.

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26 May 2018

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Early ? Summer Films That Won’t Make Me Totally Homicidal: 2018 BY PIERS MARCHANT Despite the fact that a good-sized studio just released a pretty fine horror flick (A Quiet Place, which you should definitely try to see with a big crowd in a theater to get the full effect), we are in the pre-summer doldrums on the cinematic calendar. Expect to see a final, heaving regurgitation of studios’ least promising offerings in short succession – bad rom-coms, weak comedies, turgid dramas – in order to clear out the detritus in time for Blockbuster Season. As always, a depressingly large percentage of what will be hitting us in the next few months will be atrocious, but there are still little rays of hope, even amidst the big-spectacle carnage of CGI monoliths laying waste to our local multiplexes. Here are a few things worth living for in the early summer.

Deadpool 2 (May 18): As Avengers: Infinity War with its cast of thousands will have already have mostly come and gone by the time the fourth-wall breaking Wade Wilson (Ryan Reynolds) gives it another go, so the new film about the “merc with a mouth” might be just what’s needed to refresh the palate before plunging into the rest of the summer. This time around, we shall be meeting with Cable (Josh Brolin), who may or may not be ‘Pool’s relative from the future. Decidedly not a superhero flick suitable for the non-‘R’ rated crowd. Three Identical Strangers (June 1): An absolutely fascinating doc from Tim Wardle about a trio of switched-at-birth identical triplets who discover each other by a freak coincidence in the early ‘80s, becoming media darlings in the process. The film starts out as a fun lark, but about a third of the way in, takes a surprisingly dark turn and heads to much more challenging material. Where the film ends up with the way it begins is extraordinary unto itself. This is not one you will soon forget. Hereditary (June 8): This year’s Sundance Horror Spectacular (the festival has had at least one stand-out horror flick the past several years) is thoroughly unnerving. Toni Collette plays a woman living with her family in the Utah mountains whose evil mother has finally passed away, only to return in ever more creepy ways, to haunt them, taking particular interest in her sympathetic daughter, who has her own pile of issues. Not

quite on the same level as It Follows, or The Witch (a couple of past Sundance offerings), it still packs a sizable wallop. 4

The Incredibles 2 (June 18): If you’d like to make a formal complaint that under the ever-watchful eye of the Mouse, Pixar Studios seems far more likely to churn out a sequel to an existing film than create anything new, I wouldn’t stop you. Still, this follow-up to their genial 2004 hit – back in simpler, more creative times – which finds the superhero clan back in costume, as Elastigirl (Holly Hunter) sets out on a worldsaving mission, leaving Mr. Incredible (Craig T. Nelson) to Mr. Mom it with their super-powered baby, Jack-Jack in her absence, has serious potential. It helps that Brad Bird is back to write and direct.

Under the Silver Lake (June 22): One other potentially punchy film for thriller aficionados to prepare for: David Robert Mitchell’s long-awaited follow-up to the aforementioned It Follows, which tracks a slightly imbalanced man who becomes increasingly obsessed with the murder of a billionaire, and the kidnapping of a young woman, which may or may not be related, as he feverishly works to crack a code that only he can seem to see. There will undoubtedly be a passel of bland, big studio fright flicks (Slender Man, we’re looking at you) over the course of the summer, so take the opportunity to get your thrills at some indies if you get the chance.

May 2018 27

W. E. B. Du Bois BY JIM MURPHY Name: W. E. B. Du Bois How He Pronounced It: "Doo-Boyz" Born: Feb. 23, 1868 Died: Aug. 27, 1963 in Ghana Claim to Fame: Performed pioneering survey of "The Philadelphia Negro" in 1896-97 Marker Location: NW corner, S 6th & Rodman Sts. "Mapping Courage," at 6th and South Sts., pictures Du Bois, residents and firefighters.

I wonder what residents of Philadelphia's Seventh Ward thought in August 1896, when they first saw W.E.B. Du Bois stroll into their neighborhood in a top hat and tails to begin his research study of "The Philadelphia Negro." Du Bois (pronounced doo-boyz) must have been a remarkable sight. And his groundbreaking, house-to-house study of 5,000 homes – from Spruce to South Streets, and 7th Street to the Schuylkill River – is still one of the most important sociological research projects ever done. Started at the request of Susan P. Wharton, a wealthy white Quaker woman who lived at 910 Clinton Street, the two-year project, commissioned by the University of Pennsylvania, was designed to study the city's "Negro problem." Du Bois, hired as an "assistant in sociology" by Penn, moved here to stay at the Philadelphia College Settlement House near where Starr Garden Playground is today. "In a residence of eleven months in the centre of the slums, I never was once accosted or insulted," he says. "The ladies of the College Settlement report similar experience. I have seen, however, some strangers here roughly handled." With the help of Isabel Eaton, an employee of Philadelphia College Settlement, the two researchers spoke to some 10,000 Negro inhabitants in a ward with 40,000 residents. Du Bois pulled no punches in his questions or his writing, discussing everything from Negro crime to drink, and family life to the role of black churches. In his study and detailed maps, he broke his subjects into four groups: "poor," "working people," "middle class," and the "vicious and criminal class." Du Bois went door to door with his questions, "prying into private

28 May 2018

Mural Location: NW corner of 6th and South Sts. Video: https://vimeo.com/22239485 lives," taking 10 minutes to an hour at each home, and averaging 15-25 minutes per visit. He was only turned down at 12 homes – most of them brothels. Interesting Oddities • In a footnote, Du Bois says, "I shall throughout this study use the term " Negro," to designate all persons of Negro descent. . . . I shall, moreover, capitalize the word, because I believe that eight million Americans are entitled to a capital letter." • Amy Hillier, associate professor of social policy and practice at Penn, and her staff have developed a board game, walking tour, curriculum and video about Du Bois' work. They also were able to get a colorful mural of Du Bois, the community and firemen from the local firehouse placed at 6th and South Streets. It's worth a visit. • Du Bois writes about more than 20 qualified Negroes (today we say blacks or African-Americans) unable to get jobs simply because of their color and because "my men will not work with you." Fortunately Midvale Steel Works thought otherwise. A manager, identified by Isabel Eaton as "a crank," believed Negroes and whites could work together without friction or trouble. He hired 200 Negroes in a work force of 1,200 and spread them throughout the various work gangs. The Negroes did the same grades of work as the white workmen, he reported, "and they do it as well as any of the others." Despite Du Bois' plea for fairness in hiring, little has changed since he wrote his report. Even with all the construction taking place today in Philadelphia, blacks still are very poorly represented in the building trades unions, says Philadelphia Magazine. Du Bois would be disappointed that color discrimination is still going on – but probably not too surprised.

Weccacoe – The City’s First Community Garden BY TERRY BUCKALEW

Watering hour at Weccacoe Square.

Queen Village was the site of the city’s first community garden. In 1889, Philadelphia’s City Council purchased Bethel Burying Ground in the 400-block of Queen Street from Bethel Church A.M.E. to turn it into a “pocket park” the overcrowded neighborhood sorely needed. At the turn of the century, many citizens could enjoy the wide expanses of Fairmount Park. But there were no local open spaces for children to safely play away from the dangerous streets of old Southwark. The over 5,000 bodies buried at the small cemetery were not removed, and the tombstones and surrounding brick walls already had been vandalized and “disfigured,” said newspaper reports. To the annoyance of local adults, neighborhood boys played baseball on the lot and were responsible for numerous broken windows. The once-venerated grounds also were being used to burn rubbish of local households and to dump dead animals. Although the city had allocated funds to purchase the land, the City Council had not been forthcoming with the money to develop the now hard clay lot into a green oasis. A national magazine reported the “impression” that this soonto-be garden “was sort of a Potter’s Field.” In early May of 1904, Philadelphia City Council responded to a petition from the Public Education Association to fund two public school gardens: one at Weccacoe; and the other at 56th and Lansdowne Streets on private property lent by merchant John Wanamaker. On May 24th and 28th respectively, the two gardens opened. Before seeds could be planted, a good deal of work had to be done at Weccacoe. The first plowing “turned up bricks, more bricks, and apparently more bricks, but bravely the children picked and piled,” said a national gardening magazine. The bricks were likely the remains of brick walls that surrounded the small cemetery. In addition, the children raked up “old shoes, hats, tin cans, baskets, dead cats...” all of which were piled up

and turned into “a glorious bonfire.” The challenge wasn’t over for these young gardeners. Forty truckloads of fertilizer (animal and human) were then dumped and spread by the children across the third of an acre. Eventually a low wood fence was in place, paths were dug, and plots laid out in symmetrical rows. Now the seeds could be sowed! The garden was divided into 250 individual plots, each 4 ½ x 11 ½ feet, with seeds planted for radishes, small turnips, lettuce, peas, tomatoes, lima beans, carrots, and string beans. The garden’s neighbors, mainly Russian Jews who fled the pogroms of Imperial Russia, looked out their windows each day wondering out loud in Yiddish about the undertaking. Others ventured down to lean on the garden fence and reminisce about their farms in the old country. They marveled at the newly built tool shed with its colorfully painted wheelbarrows, and the “symmetrical rows of rakes, hoes, and watering cans hanging against the wall.” Hundreds of people visited the garden, including visitors from other cities. Teachers took great interest, and brought their classes to see what hard work could achieve. Weccacoe’s unqualified success and extraordinary benefits for neighborhood children spread the popularity of the School Garden Movement. Every school in the district requested funds for the program. Even so, the garden at Weccacoe was only in place for one year before construction of a real playground and park on the site began the following spring. Still, the success of the project created a movement that by 1915 included 45 school gardens - 15 large and 30 smaller ones. The children of Southwark and their teachers created a green oasis for many to copy for generations to come.

May 2018 29

? Summertime Fun For The Whole Family BY HILARY YOUNG While most people like to escape the city once the weather turns warm, summertime in the city can actually be pretty glorious – especially when you have kids. If you happen to be due to give birth this summer, like me, or don’t plan to travel or spend time down the shore very much, don’t despair about being city-bound for the summer. There are plenty of adventures to be had, right here in our own backyard. Donuts and Chickie & Pete’s. They also have a variety of games, like bocce and ping pong, and an arcade along the boardwalk for those with older kids (or those who are just kids at heart!). The season will officially begin on May 11th. Spray Grounds: Queen Village and Pennsport

The Weccacoe Playground Spray Tower.

Parks on Tap: Dickinson Square Park The roving pop-up beer garden program brings craft beer, wine and food to 20 different parks around the city over the course of 20 weeks. Last summer, they set up at Jefferson Square Park and this summer they plan to take over Dickinson Square Park from August 8-12. It’s a great environment for everyone, especially those of us with kids. No one will complain that your kids are running around like little maniacs (it’s in a park, after all!) and you can sit and enjoy a beer while sitting in a hammock. For the full 2018 Parks on Tap schedule, visit their website: www. parksontap.com.

One of my favorite aspects of being a Queen Village mama during the summer is the awesome spray grounds we have available within walking distance. One of our favorites, Shot Tower Playground, has provided countless hours of summer fun for our family. After the recent renovation, Weccacoe Playground added a “spray tower,” which we are excited to put to good use on hot summer days. And if you’re feeling adventurous, take the walk down to Herron Playground in Pennsport, which has an impressive two-zone spray area for kids to play in, providing double the fun! Just be sure to double-check the hours of the Herron Park spray ground, as they get a little wonky on the weekends. Blue Cross RiverRink Summerfest Just a short walk up the pier from Spruce Harbor Park is the seemingly permanent Blue Cross RiverRink, which transitions from Winterfest (complete with an ice skating rink) to Summerfest (a roller rink!) starting on May 11th. If you don’t rollerskate, don’t worry, the Blue Cross RiverRink area also has cornhole games, mini-golf and a summer carnival that will feature a 60-foot Ferris Wheel in addition to a variety of amusements.

Spruce Street Harbor Park

Street Fairs & Festivals

Spruce Street Harbor Park was developed by the city in 2014 as part of an effort to build up the Delaware River Waterfront. We absolutely love spending summer afternoons by the waterfront, letting our little one run around, and enjoying food and drinks from city-faves, such as Garces, Franklin Fountain, Federal

Once the weather turns warm, there is no shortage of street fairs and festivals to be had here in Philadelphia. Some of our favorite local street fairs include the kid-friendly South Street Spring Festival (May 5th), the delicious Italian Market Festival (May 19-20), and Greenfest at Bainbridge Green (Date TBD).

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KATHY, PATRICK AND THE

May 2018

www.conwayteam.com

CONWAY TEAM

If you Must MOVE - PLEASE CALL US! If you Want to BUY a HOUSE in the BEST NEIGHBORHOOD -

PLEASE CALL US! By Far the MOST Knowledgeable and Caring Queen Village Agents We LIVE IN - WORK IN & LOVE QUEEN VILLAGE

CALL US! NEW LISTINGS

90% of our Business comes from Friends telling Friends!

830 s Front St

715 Carpenter St

Great N/L w/ Plenty of Parking right

2nd to none Fin Huge Bsmt/Media Rm

This Great Newer Corner Home has is all - Light - Drama - Space - Garage - 3 BR + 2 Dens - 2 Full + 2 PR’s, Fp, Garden & Fabulous Deck.

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306 Queen St

200-210 Lombard St #503

Light! Space! Drama! Great Block. Hardwood Floors t/o, 3 bedrooms + Den, 2.5 Baths, Fp, Great Deck & Garden.

129 Catharine St #1 Double Wide Property w/ 1 Car Garage + Extra Parking Spot. Light &

- Society Hill West Facing (sunsets & CC Views), 1 BR, 1.5 BA, Hrwd Flrs + Balcony

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Reduced $625,000

$294,000

776 S Front St WOW 20 x 100 Deep Build Your Own Dream Home! 2 + Car Parking. In Need Of Rehab

For Rent

115 Pemberton St

246 Delancey St “

Lined Block. 3 Bedrooms, 2.5 Baths, 3 Fp’s. Finished basement & Yard.

$850,000

For Rent

781 S 2nd St “The Castle in Candle Count” One of a Kind - A Designers Home. Furnished. Unique & Very, Very Special. Must See to Appreciate. 2 BR, 1.5 BA, Details & Character, Garden, Deck & Parking. $4000 Furnished

SOLD

6 Queen St Independence Court 2900 Sq Ft, 3 BR + Den, 3.5 Ba, Hrwd Flrs T/O, Gas Fp, Custom Kitchen, Deck + 1 Car Garage Parking. $775,000

”

Circa 1767. 3 BR+ Den, 2.5 BA, Hrwd Flrs, Fp and Lovely Garden.

927 S 2nd St Shot Tower Place Award Winning Design! Lovely 4 Story Home w/ 2 Car Parking, 2600 Sq Ft, 4 BR, 2.5 BA, Hrwd Flrs, Fp, Fin Bsmt, Garden & Deck $849,900

840 S American St “B” A Terr N/L w/ parking (poss 2 car), Extra Lg EIK w/ nice side & rear garden, 2 BR + den & 1.5 BA, Tucked away oﬀ the Street. $424,900

Pending

1 Queen St #14

201 N 8th ST #214 Metro Club 1700 Sq Ft, 2 BR, 2 BA, Wood Floors, Gourmet Kitchen, High Ceilings, 1 Car Private Parking + Fab Views. $524,991

Penns Landing South! 2 Bedrooms, 1.5 Baths, Fab Kitchen, Hardwood Floors, Private Deck & Garden, Private Garage Parking + Meredith Catchment. $450,000

SOLD

608 S Front St

243 Fitzwater St

922 S 2nd St

wide running Street to Street with 2 car elevator, lots of exposed brick, hrdwd ﬂrs, Lg Front & Side Garden & Meredith Catchment.

$995,000

Original Floors T/O, Fp, Fin Bsmt & Lg Garden. $600,000

1016-20 Watkins St

730 S Front St

Breathtaking Double Property Uniquely Designed N/C 2208 Sq Ft, 3 BR, 3 Full BA, Hrwd Flrs T/O, Fin Bsmt, Roof Deck

Queen Village! REALLY! A Trophy House. Corner Property 4000 Sq Ft, 5 BR, 4.5 BA, Den/Media Room, Fp, Elevator, Hrwd Flrs, Garden,

& TA $679,900

Pending

212 Catharine St

Why pay condo fees when you can buy this nice single family dwelling? 3 story, 2 BR, 1.5 BA, lots of custom built-ins, eat-in kitchen & yard.

704-06-08-10 S 4th St Wond Investment Opp! 4 Lg Buildings, 68 Ft Frontage, 2 Run thru to Leithgow St. In the Exploding 4th St Corridor. Commercial 1st Fl & Apts Above. $4,300,000

$299,000

SOLD

WOW – 6 unit bldg or could be a Fab Mansion Home. 145 deep x 20 wide, 5112 sq. ft, 45 ft Grdn. Details & character t/o + Meredith Catchment.

$1,300,000

SOLD

1029 S Randolph St

938 S Front St

QV! Super House! 2200 Sq Ft, 3 BR + Den. 2.5 BA, Hrwd Flrs , Fin Bsmt, & Garden Deck. Red

and could be a great deal. Extra large with 2 car garage, corner property. Historically

$425,000

1618 Addison St

A Free Standing 2 Bedroom Home w/ Original Hardwood Floors, Good Light, Eat In Kitchen & Large Private Garden.$379,000

. $350,000

SOLD

913 S 2nd St

Extra Wide Queen Village Home! 2194 Sq Ft. Lot Size 18x67, 5 BR, 1.5 BA, Details, Character, Garden & Deck. $625,000

Pool & 2 Car Parking. $6500

SOLD

908 S 11th St 4 BR, 2.5 BA, Hrwd Flrs T/O, Cooks Kitchen, Roof Deck w/ Center City Views & 10 Year Tax Abatement.

$699,000

SOLD

Historic Acme Piano Building 201 Queen St #4 2700 Sq Ft, 3 BR, 2 BA, Beau Hrwd Flrs T/ O, Exposed brick, Balcony, Elevator, Common Roof Deck, 1 car Garage + Meredith Catchment. $1,300,000

SINCE THE LAST ISSUE WE SOLD OVER 29 HOMES

KUDOS - - Hathaway Home Services Fox & Roach for Homes LISTED & SOLD. The PREA 100 - One of the Top Real Estate Agents in the United States. www.conwayteam.com FOR MORE INFORMATION AND A LIST OF OUR INVENTORY PROFESSIONAL PHOTOS, OPEN HOUSES AND VIRUTAL TOURS

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