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CONTENTS The S pring STyle i SSue 94
Luminous juLia The
lovely Julia Loomis, style muse of the moment, in spring
fashions at The St. Regis.
fashion fantasy Our
D aniel Cappello,
perfect gentLeman A
Julie S karraTT
fashion director dresses the leading ladies of New York in
his favorite looks of the season.
walking tour of London’s genteel West End, inspired by James
Sherwood’s book The Perfect Gentleman (Thames & Hudson). by ChriS Meigher
coming up roses Lela
Rose redefines American women’s wear.
the quest best-dressed List The
definitive list—with a full display—of the most
fashionable, stylish, and spirited women in society today.
132 if the shoe fits The Museum at FIT puts heels on high view.
a lex r. T raverS
136 power and styLe When duty calls, be sure to dress the part. by Daniel Cappello 138 madame of the house Madame Grès reigns to this day. by elizbaeTh Quinn brown 146 shots in time Iconic portraits by the great Terry O’Neill. by Daniel Cappello 110
CONTENTS C oluMnS
Social events shine through, even in wintry weather.
D aviD p aTriCk C oluMbia
Our round-up of what to do in the city as our readers migrate back north.
Jerry Hall’s long career began with her long legs, photographed in Milan in 1979. The many incarnations of Fitzgerald’s The Great Gatsby. by Taki TheoDoraCopuloS Greenwich Village: the hottest plate on Greenwich Avenue.
This season’s styles at every price point.
D aniel C appello
Wally Findlay celebrates Quest’s 25th anniversary. by luCian CapeharT phoTography
Lorry Newhouse reveals her sources of fashion inspiration.
The artful interiors of Leta Foster, from Palm Beach to New York.
l ily h oaglanD by
alex r. TraverS
154 appearances Our peripatetic society scribe fêtes authors and friends alike. by hilary geary 156
young & the guest List After
a respite, the scene picks up again. by elizabeTh Quinn brown
160 snapshot A biography of Diana Vreeland sheds new light on fashion’s sphinx. by lily hoaglanD
©T&CO. 2013 800 843 3269
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DaviD Patrick columbia C r E at i v E d i r EC to r
james stoffel ExECutivE Editor
lilY HoaGlaND fa Shion dirECtor
DaNiel caPPello a S S o C i at E a r t d i r EC to r
valeria fox a S S o C i at E E d i to r
elizabetH quiNN browN SoCiEt y Editor
HilarY GearY a SSi Stant Editor
alex travers Contributing writErS
HarrY beNsoN Darrell HartmaN bill HusteD micHael tHomas james macGuire elizabetH meiGHer liz smitH taki tHeoDoracoPulos Contributing photographErS
Drew altizer HarrY beNsoN lucieN caPeHart PHotoGraPHY jeaNNe cHisHolm mimi ritzeN crawforD jack DeutscH billY farrell marY HilliarD cuttY mcGill Patrick mcmullaN julie skarratt joe scHilDHorN beN fiNk sHaPiro aNN watt
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From left: Two of the dramatic looks from the Carolina Herrera Fall 2013 show; one of the designer’s intricate sketches; model Anna Selezneva in the Spring 2013 orange lace top we couldn’t help but grab for ourselves.
morE Than daffodilS, more than robins, what trumpets the arrival of spring for many new Yorkers is the first fashion Week of the year. Gazing at models and measuring hemlines is infinitely preferable to bullying a large grumpy rodent for shadow-based predictions anyway. among the panoply of gorgeous shows, the splendid one by Carolina herrera stood out from the rest. first, the music! rather than the usual club song drilling the un-tss un-tss of beats into your brain, the show had a lovely classical piece composed specifically for the occasion: “Capriccio for Carolina” by Tom hodge was mischievous and dramatic, thereby complementing the looks perfectly. Then of course, the looks themselves were captivating; beautifully tailored gold satin trench coats, glamorous red column dresses, and fur-flourished separates, all done with a 1940s theme coursing through the collection. it’s unsurprizing that one of her Spring 2013 orange lace tops caught our eye for our own fashion shoot in this month’s Style issue. luckily the shoot’s subject, Julia loomis, is able to pull off that look—and any other—effortlessly. daniel Cappello and photographer Julie Skarratt follow our cover girl through the grand St. regis new York, where the designer outfits make a perfect focal point against the esteemed surroundings. from a rainy stroll outside to lying back on one of the beds, Julia frolicked in the latest offerings from Valentino, angel Sanchez, monique lhuillier, ralph lauren, adEam, and more. after wrapping up that success, daniel posed a question: what if we took the latest designer dresses and matched them to the appropriate women-about-town? Brooke hagel illustrates which maven best fills different designers’ visions, in a perfect marriage of style’s creators and its vanguard. 18 QUEST
as vanguards, many of those women are also naturally featured in our 2013 Best-dressed list. from the cutting-edge to the classic, we offer up a thorough compilation of the leading ladies of fashion in society today. finally, our grateful publisher takes a stroll down memory lane—the lane in this case being Savile row. inspired by The Perfect Gentleman by James Sherwood (Thames & hudson), our publisher recalls that unique enclave of British bespokeness that still peppers the avenues of london’s West End. So primp your hair, slap on your fiercest modeling scowl, and strut down this runway of an issue with us. u
on the cover: Julia Loomis, the subject of “Luminous Julia,” at the St. regis new York in a silk blouse and shorts by Monique Lhuillier, versace sunglasses, Gucci sandals, a roberto coin ring, Ipanema earrings by MISh, and holding a taylor clutch by eponymous. Photographed by Julie Skarratt.
d aV I d PaT R I C K C O L U M B I a
David Patrick Columbia
NEW yORK SO CIaL dIaRy LaST dayS of winter. New york. Cold, but not that cold. Sometimes the temperature dropped to the 20s. We’ve had a couple of snow days, though none of the blizzards that the media got us all roughed up for. I won’t argue about climate change, but the
weather around these parts is far different from the winters I knew growing up. Remember the days when you could ski down Park avenue—when the land was snow-covered from late November to the middle of March—and temperatures dropped to the teens and
below and stayed there for days, even for weeks on end? Memories are made of this sort of thing. February, on my calendar, was a month of aquarius birthdays. at the top of the list: February 2 was the 100th birthday of Grand Central
Terminal, which had opened for business on that day in 1913. Today, it is the sixth most popular tourist destination in the world! More than 21 million people visit every year. I got my first awed and astonished look at it those many years ago when I was
Lana Smith and Polina Proshkina
Rachael and Adam Robison with Valaer van Roijen
Beth Holman, Jay Lohmann, Lindsey Harper, Chris Kerr and Elissa Coughlin 20 QUEST
Elizabeth Kurpis and Lily Hoagland
Barbara Bispham, Lucinda Ballard and Morgan Breck
Kipton Cronkite and Melanie Lazenby
Amy Fine Collins
pat r i c k m c m u ll a n
t h e w i n t e r a n t i q u e s s h o w ’ s yo u n g c o l l ec to r s n i g h t benefited the east side house settlement
#14 Sasha’s Run #2, 86 - 87, 60 x 50 inches, oil and acrylic on canvas ©133424
Leonard Nelson (1912 - 1993)
Exclusive representation of the artist’s estate.
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ART WALLY FINDLAY
D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A six or seven years old. I came down from Massachusetts on a Sunday with my mother, on the weekend excursion train that stopped in Hartford, New Haven, and New York after departing Union Station in Springfield, Massachusetts. It had been my first train ride and the three-hour trip was an entire thrill. We boarded at Union Station at 8 a.m. and arrived in Grand Central at a little after 11 a.m. Making our way from the track and up the concrete, I was completely unprepared for what lay only a few yards ahead: the main concourse with its vast and celestial ceiling! My mother, who always provided her boy with the details of what he was
going to see, hadn’t prepared me this. I was in a complete shock of wonder. Conceived by one of the building’s architects, Whitney Warren, and the French artist and portraitist Paul César Helleu, I’m sure that it was at the sight of Grand Central that I knew I would someday live in New York. This was the first taste of the universal experience that is this city. Birthdays—in the people department—were a frequent evening occurrence on the calendar. Liz Smith celebrated her 90th, fêted not once, nor twice, nor thrice, but maybe five times. Or was it six? It was only 15 minutes ago, or so it seemed, that she celebrated the number 80 at a huge
dinner given by friends at the Madison Avenue Le Cirque. Michael Buble serenaded her with some Cole Porter; there were toasts and roasts and there was lots of laughter. This time around, the parties were considerably smaller in number. But enough to leave the lady birthday-ed out for a few years, i.e. minutes. Living in the Age of Aquarius, or at least enjoying the time of year. New Yorkers are birthday party-crazy. They’re always giving birthday parties for themselves or a friend or someone they’d like to have as a friend. It’s certainly not a bad idea. Then there’s Anne Ford and Tina Sloan McPherson, who shared a birthday party
at a private club for 50 friends. And it was a production, sort of like theater-in-the round with black-tie for the men. It began with a cocktail reception and canapés at 7:30 p.m. About an hour later, we moved into the dining room. I noticed when everyone was seated that Anne wasn’t at her table. Nor was Tina at hers. Ten minutes later, they suddenly appeared dressed as airline stewardesses—the bag, the hat, the shoes. Pan Am, here were are! They explained, with script in hand, that this was all about taking their guests for a ride. They were stewardesses having the passengers they wanted on a flight, and also deciding where they would sit: first class or
t h e i n t e r n at i o n a l r e d c r o s s b a l l at t h e b r e a k e r s i n pa l m b e ac h
Cole Rumbough and Elizabeth Meigher 22 QUEST
Mary and Mandy Ourisman
Jeri and Fred Thompson
Stan Rumbough and Dina Merrill with family
Mary and Marvin Davidson
Allie and Lee Hanley
lu c i e n c a p e h a rt
Frank Chopin, Kate Ford and John Damgard
D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A b e n t o n l e a r n i n g ’ s g a l a at c h r i st i e ’ s i n n e w yo r k
Maggie Cordish and Cindy Coscoros
economy. Let’s put it this way: it was a roast—of the guests. And a funny one, even belly laughs or… erm… guffaws. For example: Tina: Where should we seat Tom Kean? (Editor’s Note: The former governor of New Jersey was present.) Anne: Economy! Tina: But he was a governor…! Anne: Yeah, but New Jersey? Guess who laughed the loudest on that one? The birthday “stewardesses” were a perfect team. McPherson played it bright and cheery with just a little big 24 QUEST
Bibhu Mohapatra and Karen Duffy
Peter Davis and Ben Fink Shapiro
Pollyanna and Ford played it deadpan and matter-of-factly. They had a little crack or comment for each of the 50 guests and the room was rocking with laughter before the first course was even served. Ford and McPherson had turned their event into a party for their guests. What a gift for all! The mid-winter social calendar remained as quiet as ever in the city, as so many headed for the warmer climes. A lot of New Yorkers whose names and faces appear in Quest head for Miami, Naples, and Palm Beach. Palm Beach enjoys a nightly social schedule that can rival New
Marshall Heyman and Maggie Betts
Kristian Laliberte and Lily Kwong
York’s in the spring or the autumn. Nevertheless, there were some great events and dinner dances between those birthday parties. Music Maestro, please. One night at 5 o’clock, I went up to El Museo del Barrio on Fifth Avenue and 105th Street to see the debut of Karen LeFrak’s new ballet composition “Bark! In the Park,” which was performed by members of the New York Theatre Ballet. The performance was part of a family benefit, so there were lots of children attending. All of the little ones filled the auditorium to watch the ballet, from toddlers to 10-year-olds. They sat rapt with attention on
the stage. It was the late Jim Henson who first suggested the concept of producing ballets for children to watch, to give them fresh ideas of themselves and the world. Watching the stage and the scene, I thought of Hermes Pan, the man who choreographed with Fred Astaire for the movies. He once told me that all dancers are children: “They have to be in order to move so freely like that.” There had to be a lot kids in the audience thinking, “I could do that!” or “I do that all the time!” The performance lent a new element of self for many watching. This particular benefit is an
b i lly fa r r e ll a g e n c y
Anne Desmond and Charlotte Sarkozy
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d aV I d PaT R I C K C O L U M B I a excellent example of what the men and women of El Museo del Barrio are doing to raise the profile of Hispanic culture, which is very much alive in the city, to the mainstream. The New york Theatre Ballet is doing the same. Having the work of Karen LeFrak added another important ingredient. More music. That same night, I went down to Verdura at 745 Fifth avenue where Ward and Nico Landrigan were hosting a cocktail reception for Michael Feinstein, for whom they also imported a beautiful Steinway & Sons grand piano. The virtuoso troubadour of
the Great american Songbook, Feinstein, has created a nonprofit called “The Michael Feinstein american Songbook Initiative.” The goal, as he explained to the guests, was to revive the Great american Songbook and expose the younger generations to it. He had learned in his copious traveling for concerts that there is a whole audience of young people who love the music once they hear it. His is a similar objective to that of the New york Theatre Ballet: to open up new possibilities in the arts for young people. The response so
far has been tremendous. To learn more about it, visit the website for the Center of the Performing arts. after Michael Feinstein told us about his initiative, he graced us with a rendition at the piano of Cole Porter’s “anything Goes.” If driving fast cars you like, If low bars you like, If old hymns you like, If bare limbs you like, If Mae West you like Or me undressed you like, Why, nobody will oppose! When every night, The set that’s smart
Is intruding in nudist parties in studios, anything Goes. He then told us about the last song George Gershwin wrote in 1937 before he died. Gershwin’s death, which happened while the composer was still in his prime, came as a shock to many people, including his friends and family. He was 38. The last song he composed is one of the Great american Songbook standards, its lyrics known to millions. George’s brother Ira Gershwin set lyrics to it afterwards. The song? “Our
t h e r ya n l i c h t s a n g b i p o l a r fo u n d at i o n at c l u b c o l e t t e i n pa l m b e ac h
Dusty and Joyce Sang 26 QUEST
Lori Gendelman and Denise Hanley
Sidney and Dorothy Kohl
Cobey Rapaport and Tina Bilotti
Gary Lickle and Michelle Henry
Kristen and Brian Ray
lu c i e n c a p e h a rt
Frances Fisher and Sally Soter
d aV I d PaT R I C K C O L U M B I a a p e r fo r m a n c e by p i a n i st l o l a a sta n o va at l i n c o l n c e n t e r
Love Is Here To Stay.” Michael Feinstein has also just published a book: The Gershwins and Me: A Personal History in Twelve Songs (Simon & Schuster). It’s an illustrated account of the Gershwin brothers, as told through stories of their most memorable songs. When Feinstein was a very young man of 20, he got a job working for Ira Gershwin in California. apparently, the next six years were a about a life-altering education, a mentoring, and a reinvigoration of the Gershwins’ work. More Art for Art’s Sake: On a Monday, mid-month, on a cold night after a light snow, 28 QUEST
Lola Astanova performing with the Orchestra of St. Luke’s
Patrick Park and Lola Astanova
I started the evening down at Jack Geary Contemporary, where Jack Geary was hosting the opening night of his gallery at 109 Norfolk Street with a show by artist Ayse Wilson. The exhibition not only showcases Wilson’s new works, where she “mines the threshold between infancy and adolescence, innocence and experience,” but also marked the debut of Jack Geary as a bona fide gallerist. Geary, who is the son of Hilary Geary Ross, has already experienced a financial career, but to have his own art gallery was an idea he’s been hatching for some time. He told me that night that he got to a point in his life
Grand Duchess Arianna of Russia and Nelson Lucero
Lim Luce and Chau-Giang Thi Nguyen
where he decided to just do it. and I’m all for that. Of Turkish descent, Wilson lives and works here in New york and is represented by the Pg art Gallery in Istanbul, Turkey, as well as by Jack Geary Contemporary. For several years, she was a painting assistant to Jeff Koons on large-scale, photo-realistic paintings. The opening drew a big crowd of friends and collectors, including Geary’s stepfather, Wilbur Ross. I went from Jack Geary’s opening back uptown to Michael’s restaurant, where Michael McCarty and his artist wife Kim were celebrating their birthdays. Both born
on February 10, the couple celebrated what, for Michael, was what some people consider (when they’re still young) to be a milestone year. The evening was a big dinner for 60 in the Garden Room. The McCartys have a wide array of good friends who they see on both coasts. Michael, of course, is a gourmand—to put it mildly. His idea of a good time is a feast with great wines and lots of things to savor and indulge in, capped off by some guitars jamming. Everyone feels right at home as a result. Then there was Fashion Week, mid-month. If you haven’t read enough about it already, don’t worry. There
m a n h at ta n s o c i e t y. co m by g r e g o ry pa rta n i o
Nadira Astanova and Sevar Astanoff
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d aV I d PaT R I C K C O L U M B I a n e w yo r k - p r e s by t e r i a n / w e i l l c o r n e l l m e d i c a l c e n t e r h o st e d “ p l at e s fo r p e d i at r i c s ” at t h e st . r eg i s
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will be another in September, which is about 15 minutes away. I do attend the Oscar de la Renta and the Ralph Rucci presentations each year. This year, both shows were big hits. Rucci shows in the big tent at Lincoln Center and Oscar opts for something smaller and more traditional (for the fashion business, at least) in his new showroom on 42nd Street across from the New york Public Library. On the night of the Oscar show, I went on to Shirley Lord Rosenthal’s for a dinner for Liam Neeson. Shirley has interesting dinners because she’s always got something in mind, a purpose for her guests. It may be her reintroducing an old friend or celebrating the achievement of an artist or writer. There may be 10 or 20 or 30 at table or two, 30 QUEST
Richard Geller and Candice Postel
and there’s always a lot of conversation. There are always writers and journalists. Shirley’s late husband, Abe Rosenthal, was an editor and Op-Ed columnist at The New York Times and Shirley has been a Vogue editor for decades. There are also always business people and local philanthropists and culture mavens for the ballet, the opera, the theater. among the guests were Linda and Mort Janklow, Peter Heywood (the painter who is a close friend of our hostess), Catie Marron, Sir Harry Evans and Tina Brown, Kathy and Jim Hoge, Leonard Lauder and Linda Johnson, Marissa Shorenstein, Charlie Rose, Norman Houston (director of the Northern Ireland Bureau in Washington, d.C.), and Joan Burney
Heather Sargent and Lisa Perry
Jack Geary and Celia Nichols
Keatings from Belfast. Joan Keatings, who looks like a movie actress, is from Belfast in Northern Ireland. She created an organization over there called Cinemagic. The objective is to entertain, educate, motivate, and inspire young people, many of whom come from underprivileged or troubled domestic situations where they get very little. Cinemagic can infuse young people with confidence to pursue learning as well as artistic and professional ambitions. Liam Neeson has been very involved and supportive of the project almost from the outset. New york is ready for this program. So are many other places across america. Visit cinemagic.org.uk for more information. Watching T.V. I think that’s
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Mary Alice Stephenson and Ammara Yaqub
what a lot of New yorkers have been doing on these gray last few winter days. What I heard them talking about is: “downton abbey” and the Oscars. I grew up on movies like most 20th-century american children. The impact of film on all of us gave our country the image it has had in the modern world, and it defined the “american Way” for a lot of people. I watch the Oscars sometimes. When growing up, doing so was a must. People always criticize the shows as one kind of disappointment or another. They have been for decades, too. But that’s part of the fun of watching. For years when I was a kid, they were held at the Pantages Theatre in Hollywood. There were spotlights that would
pat r i c k m c m u ll a n
Sara Dipasquale, Celia Richard, Lydia Marshall and Dolly Geary
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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A search the night sky and shiny cars that would up to the theater’s red carpet. (For the majority, this was all seen on the black-and-white T.V. screen). Fans would be screaming and the stars would be waving. Bob Hope was the Master of Ceremonies for the Academy Awards 22 times. His jokes, often about how he never got an Oscar for a film performance (he received three honorary Oscars over the years), were so deliberately corny that everyone agreed
with the Academy’s choices. He was as much a part of the Oscars as the Oscar itself, and he was beloved for it. His reign as emcee ended on a sour note in 1974 when Hearts and Minds, a hardhitting documentary on the Vietnam War by Bert Schneider, was chosen for Best Documentary. Hope, who was working that night as usual, was also featured in the documentary. He had been presented in the film as a hack comedian and a cheerleader for what many
Americans came to believe was an unjust war. When Schneider’s win was announced, he took the opportunity to read a message from the North Vietnamese after the recently signed Paris Peace Accords: “Please transmit to all our friends in America our recognition of all they have done on behalf of peace.” Hope took that message personally, and was furious. He felt it was a vote for what he regarded as “the enemy.” He scribbled a message and
talked fellow presenter Frank Sinatra into reading it “on behalf of the Academy.” It said, “We are not responsible for any political references made on the program, and we are sorry they had to take place this evening.” That did it for Bob Hope and the Oscars. He did not have the right to speak for the members of the Academy, who represented all kinds of political opinions. He became persona non grata for invoking the name of the Academy because of his bruised ego.
t h e a f t e r - pa r t y fo r t h e c i n e m a s o c i e t y s c r e e n i n g o f s i d e e f f ec ts
Michael Kors and Donna Karan 32 QUEST
Polly Draper and Michael Wolff
Catherine Zeta-Jones and Jude Law
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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A t h e f a m i ly b e n e f i t at t h e m e t r o p o l i ta n m u s e u m o f a r t
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The Hollywood of those turbulent years of the Vietnam War, the liberation movements, the hippie culture was reflected in the movies and their influence on the American culture—and vice versa. My favorite film from that era was Shampoo, written by Robert Towne, directed by Hal Ashby, and starring Warren Beatty as a Hollywood hairdresser (or hairstylist). Shampoo and Billy Wilder’s Sunset Boulevard, which starred Gloria Swanson and William Holden, are, four or six decades later (in my humble opinion) the two best films ever made about the movie industry and the 34 QUEST
The Macklowe Family
Jackie Sackler and Libby Karmely
universal myth of Hollywood. Lee Grant took home an Oscar for her performance as Best Supporting Actress in Shampoo and everyone associated with it was highly praised, and rightfully so. After the Oscar ceremonies are over, the stars and their friends (a.k.a. agents, producers, directors, other stars who weren’t nominated, wives, husbands, lovers, friends, shrinks, hairdressers) go to a party. This isn’t news. Elton John has one every year now that begins when the ceremonies begin. The most famous one is the Vanity Fair party, which was held at the Sunset Tower
Ava Humphrey and Cynthia Humphrey
Linda Lindenbaum and Rachel Horne
Hotel this year. For years and years, it was held at Morton’s. The Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences and their annual show was the creation of Louis B. Mayer and his associates in the late 1920s when Mayer’s studio, M e t r o - G o l d w y n - M a y e r, was new. Indeed, the entire American film industry was barely a couple of decades old. The project was political and motivational, and ultimately economical. They weren’t called moguls for nothing! In its early days, the event was like a large family banquet. The first was held in 1929 at the Hollywood Roosevelt. They sold tickets for five
Mary Ann Tighe and Kimberly Tighe with their children and Susan Willis
bucks per seat at the table. The studios sent their people (stars, directors, executives, etc.) and every studio had its table. All of the actual awards were handed out in 15 minutes. No entertainment, just the cheerleaders (the budding moguls). The following year, in 1930, it was broadcasted for an hour on the radio. Attendance was becoming de rigueur for whomever the studios chose to invite. This was in the days when the stars were legally owned by the studios and did as they were told, at least when it came to business. Radio and the newspapers gave the Academy its first
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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A real nationwide recognition. The film industry was off to the races. In 1930, 65 percent of the population—which was almost 80 million Americans—went to the movies every week. That was a much greater percentage than today. By the 1940s, the Oscars was broadcasted coastto-coast and the nation listened. The ceremonies had grown in length and production. There was still an official dinner afterwards. Black-tie. Attendance expected. In 1964, there was a little tyke of an impeccably dressed agent (bespoke suit, shirt, tie, and shoes) named Irving Lazar. He had a little round bald head and great big black horn-rimmed specs. He chucked tradition and livened up the “same old, same old” with his own party, which he hosted with his beautiful
young wife Mary (apparently, he married her because she looked like Audrey Wilder). Their first venue was The Bistro, a restaurant in Beverly Hills that was owned by Kurt Niklas and the bevy of Hollywood names who backed him. I don’t know where Irving Lazar got the idea to give this party but it was very good for business—both his, as well as the business of others. The event was known to be a lot of fun, which is not something that can be said about a lot of these sots of famous parties. Known far and wide as “Swifty”—a name given to him by Humphrey Bogart after Lazar had very quickly made a three-picture deal for the star—he made the night of the Oscars a major social event. It was a natural for him and his pursuits, but
it was also brilliant. Rich, famous, important people made up the guest list. Titled Euros, tycoons, New York society people, New York fashion people, and no press. (Exceptions were made for Aileen Mehle, whose penname was Suzy Knickerbocker, and someone from John Fairchild’s Women’s Wear Daily.) That limited press made the most important contribution to the success of Irving and Mary Lazar’s Oscar party. It was the official stamp of approval. All media followed. Everybody who was anybody wanted to be there. Knowing everybody who was anybody was Irving Lazar’s ultimate destination. He had arrived! The party became famous and had therefore made him famous to the public. Invitations were hard to get. The restaurant held only a few
hundred and there were fire laws. Irving Lazar, the arbiter of society in Hollywood. That gave the party more heft. It became the most sought-after invitation on both coasts for the event, now at Spago Beverly Hills. Guests flew in from far and wide for the big night. Paparazzi appeared. Real royalty, Hollywood royalty, huckster royalty, rockstars, European aristocrats, bankers, fashion designers, and tycoons rubbing elbows and blowing air kisses—and God knows what else—while dining on Wolfgang Puck’s then newesthippest California cuisine. Irving Lazar died in 1993 at the age of 86. His beautiful young wife Mary had died tragically the same year of Spinal Meningitis at 61. Their deaths marked a sudden transition in Hollywood life. The new self-anointed had
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Brooke Labriola, Jessica Stocker and Anne Battey 36 QUEST
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Debbie Koenig, Kelly Kirkpatrick and Chelsea Lasater
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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A arrived overnight. Hooray for Hollywood. Vanity Fair picked up the torch of celebrity, 21st-century American style, retaining some of the “social prestige” of the Lazar party. But under Graydon Carter’s aegis, the event continues to retain a kind of exclusivity: you have to be invited, but media is everywhere. After all, media is everywhere and, for some people, it’s everything. They all came out. I wasn’t there, have never been, but I am certain it is a great party, if for no other reason than people never get tired of people-watching. And if you want to peoplewatch in Hollywood, this most
definitely has the last word and is the best chance of the year. And that’s fun. And while we’re on the subject of the history and media, last month we learned that the publishing giant, Meredith Corporation, which owns multiple well-known titles such as Family Circle, Parents, and Every Day with Rachel Ray is about to merge or acquire Time magazine. I am old enough to remember when Time was the most important newsmagazine in the world. This was the case for decades. Briton Haddon and Henry Luce, who were classmates at Yale, came up with the concept of a newsmagazine when fresh out
of college in the early 1920s. Six years later, Hadden suddenly became ill with something that brought on septicemia and three months later he was dead of heart failure. Haddon’s untimely death left Luce as the sole executive heir to the company. He soon became Numero Uno, retaining that “title” and the last word at the top until he retired in 1964. By the 1940s, Time had only imitators (though some were fairly close competitors, like Vincent Astor’s Newsweek). Time was the centerpiece of the most famous and possibly richest publishing empire in the country, if not the world. Time, Life, Fortune, Sports
Illustrated, People… When I came to New York out of college, one of the plummiest jobs for an aspiring journalist was a job at Time. They started wherever they could get a slot—mailroom, research, whatever—it didn’t matter; they were in the door. Its editorial choices and style, sentence construction, and word usage entered the vernacular. People actually had vocal dinner conversations over who was or was going to be the next Time “Man of the Year.” It was a closely guarded secret and garnered headlines and more conversation and debate when it appeared on the newstands. During his reign at Mr. Time-
a l u n c h eo n at s a k s f i f t h av e n u e fo r t h e a s s o c i at e s c om m i t t e e o f m s kc c
Allison Aston and Arianna Boardman
Nina Davidson, Lauren Santo Domingo and Lesley Schulhof 38 QUEST
Merrill Curtis, Travis Acquavella and Virginia Wettlaufer
Amanda Espy and Holly Caracappa
Bara Tisch, Veronica Beard and Shoshanna Gruss
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Life, Henry Luce was regarded by many as the most influential man in america. The day after Jack Kennedy was nominated as the democratic candidate for president in 1960, his father Joe Kennedy (who knew Luce and who had an intimate friendship with his wife, Clare Boothe Luce) invited Luce to dine. His intention, without saying so, was to discuss the possibility of Time endorsing his son. The dinner took place, at Kennedy’s request, at Luce’s apartment in the Waldorf Towers. Kennedy figured that Luce, a longtime Republican, would probably endorse Richard Nixon. But Jack had just been nominated and Joe couldn’t resist trying to get Luce’s nod. It was the same night that Jack Kennedy was going to make his acceptance speech before the convention in Los angeles. Luce had easily figured out exactly why
Kennedy came to see him. He recalled: “The dinner was over about 9 o’clock and, as I remember it, the T.V. (and Jack’s acceptance speech) wasn’t going on ‘til 10…So I thought I better get down to cases. I said to him when we were in the living room: ‘Well, now, Joe, I suppose you are interested in the attitudes Time, Life, and I might take about Jack’s candidacy. and I think I can put it quite simply.’ I divided the matter into domestic and foreign affairs, and I said, ‘as to domestic affairs, Jack will be to the left of center.’ Whereupon Joe burst out with, ‘How can you say that? How can you think that any son of mine would ever be a so-and-so liberal?’ (Kennedy always used saltier words than ‘so-and-so’.) I think the conversation may have gone on about that for a while, but not very much. Then, pretty soon the moment came, the
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d aV I d PaT R I C K C O L U M B I a T.V. was on and the nominee, Jack Kennedy, got up to make his speech while the three of us [Luce’s son was with them] were watching the T.V. screen.” Luce judged the speech as OK but not great, and said as much. When it was over, Kennedy left by thanking Luce for all that he had done for Jack. “I think it was said with great sincerity and, if I recalled, he repeated it,” Luce recalled. It had not been a victory for Joe Kennedy. Henry Luce and Time endorsed Nixon. Henry Luce died seven years later at 69. a man named Steve Ross who ran a company called Kinney Parking Company, which he had merged with Warner Bros.-Seven arts, forged a deal with the Luce family and stockholders to merge TimeLife to become Time-Warner.
If the company is acquired, it will make Meredith the largest publisher of magazine titles in the world and Henry Luce’s empire will become a distant memory. Now, that little bit of history of media gives you an idea of what goes on with these professionals who lend an ear and catch ideas bouncing off the walls at Michael’s. The Oscars are nothing compared to this. In Memoriam. On the first day of last month, former mayor Ed Koch. He was 88 on his last birthday, december 12. I was an after-work volunteer in his first congressional campaign back in 1969, when he was running for the Silk Stocking district which is how the Upper East Side was referred to in politics. Koch served in the Second World War, drafted as a teenager. When he came out, he put himself through
college and law school. after he graduated, he formed his own law firm and at a young age he’d begun pursuing a political career. When he was 39, he was elected for his first office as an assemblyman, then a councilman, and then he was off to Washington. In those days, local candidates in the city got out among the people as much as possible. Ed Koch’s style was to stand on the sidewalk at subway entrances in the mornings and in the late afternoons. He would introduce himself, asking, “How’m I doin’?” He was then in his mid40s when he first ran for congress, in an age that had been glamorized by the Kennedys and their Camelot with its youthful charm and good looks. Ed Koch had none of that on the surface. But he had the common touch and his approach
to everyone, high or low, was sharp and genial. That personal touch gave him his growing popularity and made him desirable to the New york voter. He served two terms in Washington, d.C. In those early days of his political career, he did not publicly display that vigorous New yawker quality that the world is now so familiar with. He was forthright, yet almost reserved, almost as if he was perhaps somewhat shy. Still, he was respectful and a serious listener. So it is surprising when he was elected mayor (for three terms, no less) and a bigger, louder, even brasher public personality emerged. The reserved nature, respect, and serious listening were still there, but now the public personality exhibited a more seasoned and confident outlook. u
t h e n e w yo r k p h i l h a r mo n i c ’ s c h i n e s e n e w ye a r g a l a at l i n c o l n c e n t e r
Richard LeFrak and Christine Schwarzman 42 QUEST
Herbie Hancock performing with the New York Philharmonic
Donald and Barbara Tober, Shirley Young and Sandra Warshawsky
Oscar Tang and Hsin-Mei Agnes Hsu
Angela Chen and Gary Parr
c h r i s le e ; l i n s le y l i n d e k i n s ; J u l i e s k a r r at t
Karen LeFrak, Ghislaine Maxwell and Gillian Miniter
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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A questâ€™s annual a-list ladies luncheon with de grisogono at c l u b c o l e t t e i n pa l m b e ac h
Emilia Saint-Amand and Sabrina Forsythe
Hillie Mahoney and Michele Heary
Lesly Smith 44 QUEST
Grace Meigher, Muffy Miller and Pauline Pitt
Leta Foster and Laurie Grauer
Mila Mulroney and Jackie Drake
Denise De Luca and Paulette Koch
Mai Harrison and Maria Pia de Savoia
Emilia Fanjul and Susie Elson
Annette Tapert and Kate Khosrovani
Margo de Peyster
Karin Luter and Britty Bardes
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d aV I d PaT R I C K C O L U M B I a t h e s a n f r a n c i s c o b a l l e t ’ s o p e n i n g n i g h t g a l a at t h e w a r m e mo r i a l o p e r a h o u s e
Patrick and Melissa Barber
Joy Vianchi with Paul and Nancy Pelosi
John Osterweis and George Lucas 46 QUEST
Alison and Michael Mauze
Guests at the event, which was themed “Moving the Compass”
Tom DeLay with Charlotte and George Shultz and David Topkins
Carole and Jeffrey Hayes
Shelley Gordon with Julie and Christopher Dolan
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Tom Quick, Hashem Khosrovani and Eddy Taylor
Carol Mack and Hilary Geary 48 QUEST
Patrick Park and Lois Pope
Kim Campbell and Lavinia Baker
Chuck and Amanda Schumacher
Julie and Michael Connors
Donald and Melania Trump with Wilbur Ross
Darlene Jordan and Dan Ponton
lu c i e n c a p e h a rt
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LOLA ASTANOVA, Virtuoso Pianist George Gershwin’s “Rhapsody in Blue”
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d aV I d PaT R I C K C O L U M B I a celerie kemble and boykin curry h o st e d a â€œ stat e o f t h e u n i o n â€? d i n n e r at mo n k e y b a r
Celerie Kemble and Elizabeth Keffer
Andrew and Ann Tisch
Carter Burden and Ted Schell
Kati Marton, Kurt Anderson and Anne Kreamer
Ted and Connie Roosevelt 50 QUEST
Julia and David Koch
Philip Howard and Steven Brill
James Fallows and Eric Schmidt
pat r i c k m c m u ll a n
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Annabelle and Gregory Fowlkes with Bill and Heather Brades
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Tory Burch, Thom Filicia and Gigi Mortimer 56 QUEST
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GARRISON, NY - Enjoy the ultimate in condo living in THE CASTLE, a well-known landmark high above the Hudson River. This luxurious 2 floor, 2 bedroom unit offers breathGARRISON, NY - Enjoy the ultimate in condo living in THE CASTLE, a well-known taking views from Bear Mountain Bridge to Newburgh Bay. It has huge open rooms, 12 to 15 landmark high above the Hudson River. This luxurious 2 floor, 2 bedroom unit offers breathfoot ceilings, 4 fireplaces, gourmet kitchen, and sumptuous baths. It also offers outdoor spaces, taking views from Bear Mountain Bridge to Newburgh Bay. It has huge open rooms, 12 to 15 central air conditioning, and garaging for 2 cars. Offered at $2,999,999 foot ceilings, 4 fireplaces, gourmet kitchen, and sumptuous baths. It also offers outdoor spaces, central air conditioning, and garaging for 2 cars. Offered at $2,999,999
GARRISON, NY - Spacious and open country home with fabulous HUDSON RIVER VIEWS to the west and north to Storm King Mt and Newburgh Bay. The living room features GARRISON, NY - Spacious and open country home with fabulous HUDSON RIVER cathedral ceiling and stone fireplace, and all living areas enjoy the views and access to stone terVIEWS to the west and north to Storm King Mt and Newburgh Bay. The living room features races. 4 bedrooms and 2 ½ baths, includes huge master suite privately located on its own level. cathedral ceiling and stone fireplace, and all living areas enjoy the views and access to stone terThe in-ground pool and cabana further enhance the 5.6 acre property. Offered at $1,995,000 races. 4 bedrooms and 2 ½ baths, includes huge master suite privately located on its own level. The in-ground pool and cabana further enhance the 5.6 acre property. Offered at $1,995,000
GARRISON, NY - Courtside. This rustic stone barn, whose distinctive architecture sets it apart from the ordinary, has been converted into 10,000 square feet of luxurious GARRISON, NY - Courtside. This rustic stone barn, whose distinctive architecture living space. The home features large public rooms, country kitchen, 7-8 bedrooms and sets it apart from the ordinary, has been converted into 10,000 square feet of luxurious a separate 2 bedroom apartment. The beautifully landscaped 4 acre property also offers living space. The home features large public rooms, country kitchen, 7-8 bedrooms and a tennis court and gunite pool. Offered at $1,650,000 a separate 2 bedroom apartment. The beautifully landscaped 4 acre property also offers a tennis court and gunite pool. Offered at $1,650,000
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EAST FISHKILL, Dutchess County, NY - Wiccopee House. Circa 1894, this beautiful estate on 17.6 acres, includes the 7000 square foot Georgian style main house featuring EAST FISHKILL, Dutchess County, NY - Wiccopee House. Circa 1894, this beau6 bedrooms, gleaming wood floors, multiple fireplaces, period details and a gourmet tiful estate on 17.6 acres, includes the 7000 square foot Georgian style main house featuring kitchen. Additional features include a 100’ x 30’ barn with a 2 bedroom apartment, pad6 bedrooms, gleaming wood floors, multiple fireplaces, period details and a gourmet dock, pool, and tennis court. Offered at $2,495,000 kitchen. Additional features include a 100’ x 30’ barn with a 2 bedroom apartment, paddock, pool, and tennis court. Offered at $2,495,000
GARRISON, NY - American Gothic home, designed by the foremost 19th century American architect, Alexander Jackson Davis, offers 7800 square feet that has been restored to reflect the gilded age of country homes. The home features an impressive keyhole staircase,designed large public rooms, andmassive the arCOLD SPRING, NY - Masterfully contemporary offers two story entry, living room and dining room sharing a grand floor to ceilingfloors. stone fireplace, large chitect’s signature split level design on the upper The COLD SPRING, NY - Masterfully designed contemporary offers massive two story chef’s kitchen and 4 bedrooms. Walls of French doors lead to deck cantilevered over rushentry, livingestate room and dining roomansharing a grand pool floor towith ceiling stonehouse, fireplace, large 19 acre also offers in-ground pool ing mountain stream. Delightful details and high quality materials are evident throughout chef’s kitchen and 4 bedrooms. Walls of French doors lead to deck cantilevered over rushthethree home which is sited on almost 5 acres. Offered atbuildings $1,875,000on adjoining car stream. garage and barn. Additional ing mountain Delightful details and high quality materials are evident throughout the homeare which is sited on almostOffered 5 acres. Offered at $1,875,000 land also available. at $7,500,000.
Putnam Valley, NY - Lovely country retreat on almost 5 acres. This C. 1935 home offers 4356 square feet, 5 bedrooms, 4 ½ baths, 2 working fireplaces, hardwood floors, and numerous Putnam Valley, NY - Lovely country retreat on almost 5 acres. This C. 1935 home offers window seats, nooks and crannies for added character. The glorious backyard features an in4356 square feet, 5 bedrooms, 4 ½ baths, 2 working fireplaces, hardwood floors, and numerous ground pool with spa and sizeable barbeque and patio area. The property also includes a forwindow seats, nooks and crannies for added character. The glorious backyard features an inmer dairy barn and pond. Offered at $1,300,000 ground pool with spa and sizeable barbeque and patio area. The property also includes a former dairy barn and pond. Offered at $1,300,000
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On March 11, the School of American Ballet, or SAB, will host its annual Winter Ball at 7 p.m. at the David H. Koch Theater at Lincoln Center. This year, the event will be themed, “A Night in the Far East.” For more information, call 212.769.6610.
The Hospital for Special Surgery will honor a panel of physicians with a reception at The Breakers in Palm Beach. For more information, call 212.606.1000.
Opportunity, Inc. will hold its Always Benefiting Children, or ABC, dinner dance at the Beach Club in Palm Beach. For more information, call 561.712.9221.
a strong foundation
give Me a break
The Preservation Foundation of Palm Beach will host its dinner dance, with Diana Ecclestone serving as chair, at The Breakers in Palm Beach. For more information, call 561.832.0731.
golden opportunit y
wish upon a star
The Make-A-Wish Foundation’s picnic for families will take place at the Mar-a-Lago Club in Palm Beach. For more information, call 934.967.9474.
art for art’s sake
loud and clear
Storefront for Art and Architecture will celebrate its 30th anniversary with a gala at 5 Beekman. For more information, call 212.431.5795.
Autism Speaks’s Walk Now event will begin at 7 a.m. at the City Commons in Palm Beach. For more information, call 561.833.9730.
onward and upward
aMerica the beautiful
The National Multiple Sclerosis Society’s Climb to the Top event will take place at 6:30 a.m. at 30 Rockefeller Plaza. For more information, call 212.463.9791.
The National Committee on American Foreign Policy’s awards dinner will be held at 6 p.m. at The Plaza. For more information, call 212.678.0231.
City Harvest’s A Mid-Winter Escape event will take place at 6 p.m. at Apella. For more information, call 646.412.0650.
The Center for Creative Education’s luncheon will take place at 11:30 a.m. at a private residence in Palm Beach. For more information, call 561.805.9927.
the great escape
The Society of Memorial SloanKettering Cancer Center will host its Bunny Hop, now in its 22nd year, at 6 p.m. at FAO Schwarz. The event will be sponsored by Tiffany & Co. For more information, call 212.639.2103.
be a saint
St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital will host its dinner, which is now celebrating its fifth year, at 7 p.m. at Club Colette in Palm Beach. For more information, call 800.278.3383.
oh say can you see
The Bascom Palmer Eye Institute will hold its Evening of Vision event at 7 p.m. at The Breakers in Palm Beach. For more information, call 561.515.1527.
balmy palm beach
The Hospice of Palm Beach County Foundation will host a dinner at the Wally Findlay Galleries in Palm Beach. For more information, call 561.848.5200. have a ball
The Wrecking Ball to benefit the Museum of the American Revolution will take place at 7 p.m. in Philadelphia. For more information, call 215.253.6731.
take a spin
The School of American Ballet’s Winter Ball, themed “A Night in the Far East,” will begin at 7 p.m. at the David H. Koch Theater. For more information, call 212.769.6610.
tea part y
The Daughters of the American Revolution will hold a High Tea at 2:30 p.m. at the Chesterfield Hotel in Palm Beach. For more information, call 202.628.1776.
On March 9, the Wrecking Ball will make way for—and benefit—the Museum of the American Revolution in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. For more information, call 215.253.6731. a beautiful mind
Fountain House’s breakfast, enttitled “Between the Sheets: Sex and Mental Health, A Woman’s Perspective,” will take place at 9 a.m. at Le Cirque. For more information, call 212.582.0341.
gotham cit y
Shared Interest will honor
Harry Belafonte, a band named Freshlyground, and father Michael Lapsley at 6 p.m. at Gotham Hall. For more information, call 212.843.5750.
The Palm Beach Opera Guild’s luncheon will take place at 11 a.m. at the Mar-a-Lago Club in Palm Beach. The event will be chaired by Vicki Kellogg and Anneliese Langner. For more information, call 561.835.7569. positive reception
The Hospice of Palm Beach County Foundation will hold a reception hosted by its chairman at the Wally Findlay Galleries in Palm Beach. For more information, call 561.848.5200.
the trump card
The Palm Beach Symphony will host a gala chaired by Donald and Melania Trump at the Mar-a-Lago Club in Palm Beach. For more information, call 561.655.2657. vroom, vroom
On March 1, the Storefront for Art and Architecture will host a gala in honor of its 30th anniversary at 5 Beekman, an historic venue being developed by GB Lodging. For more information, call 212.431.5795.
The East Side House Settlement’s gala preview of the New York International Auto Show, sponsored by Jeep, will take place at 6 p.m. at the Jacob Javits Center. For more information, call 212.829.0002.
shake it up
Publicolor’s interactive event, “Stir, Splatter, and Role,” will take place starting at 6 p.m. at Martin Luther King, Jr. High School. For more information, call 212.213.6121.
The St. George’s Society (America’s leading British charity) will host a dinner at the Chesterfield in Palm Beach. For more information, call 212.682.6110. don’t settle
The Henry Street Settlement will honor Reed Krakoff and Alexandra Lebenthal at its dinner dance at 7 p.m. at The Plaza. For more information, call 212.254.6677.
The Paris Review’s Spring Revel will take place at 7 p.m. at Cipriani 42nd Street. For more information, call 212.343.1333.
it’s in the bag
The S.L.E. Lupus Foundation’s New York Bag Ladies luncheon will take place at 11:30 a.m. at The Plaza. For more information, call 212.685.4118. MARCH 2013 65
IT SEEmS lIKE yESTErday 66 QUEST
SUpErmodEl jErry hall was born in 1956 in Gonzales, Texas. She grew up in the tiny town of mesquite— which is near dallas—with her twin sister, Terry, and their three sisters. an accomplished horsewoman, she was discovered while sunbathing topless
H A R RY B E N S O N
on a beach in Saint-Tropez, France, and the rest is history. The daughter of a truck driver, Jerry has never been afraid to say what she really thinks, especially if she feels that someone is trying to take advantage or use her fame for their own gain.
This six-foot stunner towered over her husband, rocker Rolling Stone Mick Jagger, throughout their nine-year marriage. During that time, they produced four children as well as lots of fodder for the gossip columns. Although Jerry is somewhat out of the
spotlight now, her look-alike daughter— and beauty in her own right—Elizabeth Scarlett, is following in her mother’s footsteps by pursuing a career in modeling. The photograph of Jerry shown here was taken in 1979 in Milan, Italy, during Fashion Week. Dressed in an Armani outfit, she laid on a couch waiting for the photo session to begin. I told her, “Just stay where you are.” She looked great, her long legs reaching over the edge of the couch. Though 34 years have passed since I snapped that photograph, you know what I am going to say next—it seems just like yesterday. u Jerry Hall, the Texas-born and-bred model, photographed in Milan, Italy, in 1979. MARCH 2013 67
Ta k i
THE EndURing lEgaCy oF gaTSBy
In Baz Luhrmann’s The Great Gatsby, Tobey Maguire plays the narrator, Nick Carraway, and Leonardo DiCaprio plays the protagonist, Jay Gatsby.
Hollywood iS Having one more shot
at The Great Gatsby. it’s the fourth one, i believe. The first Gatsby was silent, and the second, my favorite, was made in the forties, starring alan ladd. The blond, short ladd had those hooded eyes and sharp features that conveyed depth and sensitivity while still looking tough. The Great Gatsby is the novel that made F. Scott Fitzgerald an immortal but, when it was first published in 1925, 68 QUEST
it was hardly a critical or financial success. it has since been called the greatest american novel ever written and when i look around at the crap being written today, i tend to agree—number two, i’d say, after Tender Is the Night. Hollywood, of course, has butchered more books than were ever burnt by islamic fanatics, so i’m not getting my hopes up for this new movie. That said, it couldn’t be worse than the third one,
starring Robert Redford. it was a fashion show performed by two tongue-tied robots. Redford cannot register emotion or longing, and Mia Farrow as daisy was totally miscast. Farrow is actually quite cerebral, something daisy is not, and by trying hard to show superficiality, Mia simply missed the boat by a mile. ironically, Jordan Baker, Tom Buchanan, and nick Carraway were all well played, but when Jay and daisy are out to lunch
Ta k i the only thing left is a sideshow. So, will the fourth version, with leonardo diCaprio playing Jay, be any better? There was no way Hollywood could resist making it a sartorial bonanza, with gleaming automobiles and incredible mansions getting in the way of the story. Here’s Fitzgerald on page 39 of his novel: “There was music from my neighbor’s house through the summer nights. in his blue gardens men and girls came and went like moths among the whisperings and the champagne and the stars.” That is all a Hollywood director has to read and, presto, he’s got a movie. Throw in the Jazz age, women in cloche hats and cylinder dresses, great houses with retinues of servants, Park avenue
the fact that the people playing it were very often black struck fear into many a parental heart. My grandfather called it decadent, gutter music. when i said louis armstrong was among the greatest musicians ever, he asked me to leave the room. But it’s the world of endless party-going and high-octane frivolity that still fascinates and always will. This is where Hollywood comes in. There, they can do anything that has to do with wealth and privilege, though it’s always shown in a bad light. where they get into trouble is when trying to depict how deeply the hero of Fitzgerald’s novel has his roots implanted in the nature of the genteel champion, the creator of romantic dreams, much like
quest. This is very difficult to film; in fact, it’s impossible. gatsby’s grail is not daisy, but the security and wealth and power of the plutocratic american upper class. Fitzgerald painted the american experience on gatsby’s character, his romantic quest and tragic failure. “gatsby believed in the green light, the orgiastic future that year by year recedes before us. it eluded us then, but that’s no matter—tomorrow we will run faster, stretch out our arms farther…and then one fine morning—” Poor old Scott. He died broke and believing himself a total failure. Ten years after his death in 1940, his star was back. His books became bestsellers, Hollywood filmed all his novels, and his place in
From left: F. Scott Fitzgerald, one of the great American novelists; members of the cast of Gatsby, scheduled for a May 2013 release.
lockjaw accents, snobbery, and some suggestion of violence, and it’s oscar time. The Jazz age still holds us in its sway because the youthful rebels who let it rip between the wars were mostly upper class and rich. at a distance of 90 years, it is difficult to conceive the thrill of horrors with which older listeners greeted the first strains of jazz when it began to drift across american ballrooms. its syncopated rhythms, its sexual suggestiveness, and
dick diver in Tender and Monroe Stahr in Tycoon. Fitzgerald was the last to grow up believing in the genteel romantic ideal that pervaded late 19th–century american culture. gatsby is an easy, short read, but the novel is full of finespun patterns and ironies. The wife at the wheel of her lover’s car runs down and kills the lover of her husband. gatsby and Myrtle have a lot in common, and when the latter dies, the magic aura departs from gatsby’s
the american literary cannon is secure. Jay gatsby, or James gatz, is the quintessential american hero, a dreamer, a bootlegger, a fine man who served his country and returned determined to be somebody. what can be more american than that? Read the book and give the movie a pass. diCaprio is no gatsby, not even a gatz. u For more Taki, visit takimag.com. MaRCH 2013 69
cool enough for cole’s? contrary to popular belief, sometimes you can judge a book by its cover. and sometimes you can judge a restaurant by the hype surrounding it, or so it would seem when packing into cole’s greenwich Village (just “cole’s,” as it’s known), down on greenwich avenue. after telling a friend about my first dinner there, he asked if the food was any good. funnily enough, I couldn’t seem to remember. this, of course, is not to say that the food was unmemorable—just that the scene was so great, and the cozy night so prolonged over a steady supply of cocktails, appetizers, and entrées, that to break down the merits of the kitchen would require a return trip or few. to be sure, many a Manhattan restaurant has benefited from an initial influx of celebrities. and at cole’s, a star sighting seems as sure a bet as a liquor-laden retro cocktail. take, for instance, a recent night during an especially treacherous winter storm (“blizzard” was the definitive buzzword). In spite of the 70 Quest
weather, the cheery front-of-house hostess—who managed not to bristle, even once, at the sub-freezing drafts whipping through the entrance and around her tiny black party dress—didn’t get a moment’s rest all night. the place was packed, and in every corner, from the throwback Bottle room bar to the Dining room down the hall, to the high-traffic café room in between. at any moment, one t.V. personality or fashion name seemed to whistle through after the next: at first, former first daughter Barbara Bush; then, the Bravo network’s Brad goreski. later, the puppy-eyed hollywood actor tobey Maguire got up to head to the restroom, and was eventually seen leaving with his jewelry-designer wife, Jennifer Meyer. a bold-faced decorator here (thom filicia); a first-lady fashion designer there (Jason Wu). at a certain point, one had to give up gawking just to keep eye contact and dinner conversation going at his own table. cole’s is ripe for a good time. headed by hospitality veteran
O le g M a r c h P h OtO g r a P h y; M e n u s cO u rt e s y O F cO le ’ s
By DANIEL CAPPELLO
CAnteens David Rabin, the restaurant is part of the “experience” dining trend. Here, it’s set off by a reliable menu of fresh takes on American classics. It’s both comforting and comfortable, without being clichéd. Maybe that has something to do with Development director of chef Daniel eardley (an organic food star at Chestnut) and major arts foundation his subtly inventive takes on braised short ribs, the pork chop (the white polenta and fig jus agrodolce seals the deal on this one), and cod (beautifully framed by tasty and tonal garnishings of celery root purée, lentils, and salsa verde). Or maybe it’s the understatedly chic décor offered by interior designer steven Gambrel, who evokes the artistic scene of 1950s Greenwich Village with intimate rooms that incorporate retro and contempoModel who just wrapped rary design elements, from burlap panels in the a shoe–brand ad shoot Dining Room to amber-toned panels in the Bottle Room, which echo the tint of a whiskey bottle. (speaking of whiskey, don’t leave without sampling one of Cole’s original cocktails, the “27 Club” Manhattan.) there’s an equilibrium at work here. Maybe it’s the people. Or the food. Whatever it is, Cole’s—the coolest restaurant of the moment—seems to have it. u
“It” girl celebrating her breakthrough novel
Foodie from Sonoma County wine country
This page: Those whom you might spot in the Dining Room, Café, or Bottle Room bar, and what they might be ordering. Opposite page: The intimate Dining Room. Cole’s Greenwich Village: 118 Greenwich Ave. (at 13th St.), open daily from 5 p.m. until 11 p.m. for dinner in the Café and Dining Room, 5 p.m. until 1 a.m. for cocktails in the Bottle
Young heir to a French
Room (212.242.5966 or colesgreenwichvillage.com).
West Villager reluctantly liking trendy restaurants
Posh fashion P.R. out with the uptown-girl set
Under-30 event planner
wooing her favorite DJ
taking town by storm
MARCH 2013 71
Fresh Finds by da n i e l c a p p e l lo a n d e l i z a b e t h m e i g h e r
in cElEbraTion of our annual Spring Style issue, we’ve found fashions at all
price points from some of our favorite designers and labels, such as Michael bastian, Madewell, J.crew, and Uniqlo. Whether you’re picking up new outfits and overnight bags for a seasonal getaway or thinking of where to head this Spring break, we’re one step ahead. You’ll need new shades for the coming rays, so check out our picks from some brand-new offerings. We haven’t forgotten the jewels (try Tiffany, fabergé, roberto coin, and Marina b, just to name a few), nor some key new additions for your home. Mix and match at J.Crew with this pink-andnavy merino colorblock cardigan ($89.50) and richly textured vintage gilded brocade short ($138). J.Crew:
She’ll be queen of the palace in Fabergé’s diamond-studded Les Palais egg pendant. $12,411. Fabergé: 694 Madison Ave., 646.559.8848, or faberge.com.
It’s no longer just about footwear: This spring, TOMS debuts a modern line of updated classics in eyewear, including these Memphis sunglasses in champagne crystal. $129. TOMS: At toms.com.
Be naughty but nice in Stuart Weitzman’s Naughty heel in rose specchio. $335. Stuart Weitzman: Available at stuartweitzman.com.
Don’t forget to spring ahead with your new 36-mm. Oyster Perpetual Day-Date in 18-kt. Everose gold with fluted bezel and Oysterlock bracelet. $35,550. Rolex: 800.36.ROLEX.
Paloma’s Olive Leaf drop earrings with rubellites and diamonds in 18-kt. gold by
Wempe’s Helioro bracelet BY KIM, in
Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co.
18-kt. gold, melds organic simplicity
are the perfect offering of love.
with adaptability in equally
$45,500. Tiffany & Co.: At tiffany.com.
fascinating measure. $12,945. Wempe: 700 Fifth Ave., 212.397.9000, or wempe.com.
Paging Dr. Freud: The Neue Galerie Design Shop, with Selima Optique, presents these limitededition Sigmund Freud sunshades. $385. Neue Galerie Design Shop: 1048 Fifth Ave., 212.628.6200.
Asprey’s Post bag in nubuck, with its bright magenta hue, sits on your arm like a budding bloom. $2,950. Asprey: 853 Madison Ave., 212.688.1811, or asprey.com.
Must-have basics from Uniqlo come together beautifully: longsleeve cropped shirt ($29.90), stretch denim jacket in gray ($39.90), and cropped legging pants ($19.90). Uniqlo: 877.486.4756.
Add a sparkle to the night with Roberto Coin’s cocktail ring in 18-kt. rose gold with onyx and diamonds. $9,180. Roberto Coin: For more information or to purchase, please call 800.853.5958. MarcH 2013 73
Rock it in style with de Grisogono’s 46.34-ct.
Come to life in Sequin’s Sea Life earrings,
yellow sapphire ring
featuring beautiful and whimsical takes on
with white and brown
the starfish. $58. Sequin: 219 Worth Ave.,
diamonds, all set
Palm Beach, Fla., 561.328.8405.
in 18-kt. yellow gold. Price upon request. de Grisogono: 212.439.4220.
Fine dining—and the finest of beaches—await at Casa de Campo, the perfect Caribbean getaway for an early Spring Break. Casa de Campo: casadecampo.com.do.
Madewell’s crinkled viscose mandarin collar sleeveless dress is the right way—and the bright way—to go.
Add a personal touch to your home with a custom-
designed staircase like
this one, featuring individual urn-topped Doric columns in mahogany. Wadia Associates: 203.966.0048.
This David Webb ring in 18-kt. yellow gold, platinum, diamonds, coral, and white enamel is a knock-out. $28,000. David Webb: 942 Madison Ave., 212.421.3030, or davidwebb.com. 74 Q U E S T
Step into spring with the allcalf Minstrel slipper from Belgian Shoes in yellow with white trim. $360. Belgian Shoes: 110 East 55th St., 212.755.7372, or belgianshoes.com.
Sparkle and shine in Marina B’s Onda earrings, crafted in 18-kt. pink gold, diamonds, and pink sapphires. $11,500. Marina B: At marinab.com.
Get away from it all—or just for the weekend—with Ralph Lauren’s washed canvas duffel in navy, a perfect carry-all for overnight trips. $595. Ralph Lauren: At ralphlauren.com.
Every dapper man will covet Michael Bastian’s linen herringbone notch-lapel jacket ($1,195 at Michael Bastian, 212.228.3400), denim double-breasted cardigan ($835 at Fivestory), and coral seersucker shorts ($355 at Bergdorf Goodman).
For the art enthusiast: Dimitry Let Gracious Home light up your
Gerrman’s “The Falling, 2012” in
life—or at least your home—with the
bronze on a granite base makes
Artemis clear small table lamp,
a wonderful addition to the collection.
measuring 20.5 inches
Wally Findlay Galleries:
high. $440. Gracious Home:
124 East 57th St., 212.421.5390.
1220 Third Ave., 212.517.6300. MARCH 2013 75
by lucien capehart photography
on february 16, Wally findlay Galleries hosted a reception for its “quest: Defining a Quarter of a Century of People, Places, and events in a Photographic exhibition” event at 165 Worth avenue in Palm beach. toasting the magazine, and its rich legacy, were some of the icons who have graced its pages throughout quest’s 25-year existence. the gallery was festive, a recreation of Doubles at the sherry-netherland—think dishes of peanuts and lots of red—with collages of the magazine decking the walls. u
This page: 1. The exhibition at Wally Findlay Galleries 2. Adolfo Zaralegui with Cristal and Lars Totterman 3. Stephanie and Fred Clark 4. Lesly Smith, Bill Harbach, James Borynack and Barbara Harbach 5. February 2013 Quest . Opposite page: Matthew and Nicole Mellon.
Lu C i e N C A p e H A rT p H OTO G r A p H y; pAT r i C k M C M u LL A N
the best of quest
p H OTO C r e d i T G O e S H e r e
MarCh 2013 77
4 1 3
This page: 1. Jane Smith 2. Geoffrey Bradfield and
PAT R i C K M C M u LL A N
Lu C i e N C A P e H A RT P H OTO G R A P H y;
Anna Gary 3. Suebelle Robbins, Kim Dryer, Geoffrey Thomas and Sharon Sondes 4. A recreation of Doubles 5. Jay Paige with Jane and Bill Told, Jr. 6. John Damgard and Britty Bardes 7. Kenn Karakul, Jeff Gregory, Anne White and Jeff Smith 8. Tom Quick and Jean van Sinderen 9. Jean Tailer, James Gubelmann and Ashton de Peyster.
Opposite page: 1. A program for the exhibition 2. Denise and Dan Hanley 3. Scott Moses and Stephanie Rockwell 4. Betsy and Wally Turner 5. Princess Maria Pia and Prince Michel de Bourbon 6. Pat Cook and Bob Nederlander 7. Bob Hardwick and Mike Carney 8. Mai Harrison and Bill Bartholomay 9. Muffy Miller and Margo de Peyster 10. Gigi Benson and Howard Cox 11. Talbott Maxey and Robert Janjigian 12. John Loring and Jean Tailer.
The NeWhOUse Of sTYLe B y L I Ly H O A G L A N D
minutes of meeting her is the mischievous twinkle in her eye. it’s a combination of curiosity, intelligence, and joie de vivre. While talking to her about her successful eponymous clothing line, the topics can range from french poetry to the potential candidates in the next New York mayoral election to David Bowie—and she converses fluently on them all. This depth of interests is reflected in her couture creations as well, which feature intricate designs woven into brocade pants hanging on the rack next to classic gowns with layers of tulle. she holds up a metallic jacket from her upcoming fall/Winter 2013collection. “i love anything that glows or makes you glow,” she declares. Nimbly picking through the pieces of the upcoming collection in her sweeping Upper east side apartment, Lorry reveals the spirit behind her concepts and designs. “i think sometimes, when you get really playful, that’s when it starts coming together.” The sparkling confetti top in her new collection is one of many fun looks that attests to the sentiment. her dresses stand out in the blah-black crowds as pieces of structured whimsy, where the elaborate details never weigh down their intrinsic lightheartedness. her love affair with texture began when she was a painter. “Then, when i started going down to the garment district, this new world opened up to me,” she recalls. “They truly have these textile works of art sitting there.” Most of her fabrics come from these New York–based factories, and she praises attorney General eric schneiderman for his interest in keeping the garment district in the city. her use of these amazing and intriguing fabrics makes the case that the district needs to remain here, doing so yields such powerful results. as an artist, she firmly believes in being inspired by everything, and the importance of collaboration. Looking at the manganese blue sculptures by anish Kapoor led her to have a singular vision of color for her next collection, and perfume company iff made a signaure scent for the line, Voyage Dans La Lune. “everything should be a collaboration and bring people together in ways you wouldn’t think of,” according to Lorry. This mosaic of influences is ultimately pieced together into a beautiful reflection of the woman herself. u
l i s a b e r g p h oto g r a p h y / le e C lo w e r
The firsT aspecT of Lorry Newhouse that strikes you within
FA S H I O N
This page: A floral printed organza dress. opposite page: lorry Newhouse at the presentation of her Fall/winter 2013 line, wearing the confetti shirt from that season (above); a le e c lo w e r
windowpane confetti evening dress from her Spring 2013 collection (below). MARCH 2013 81
graND DEsIgNs FOr LIVINg
LEta FOstEr is a consummate interior designer, and she
crafts something artful and ardent out of every project she touches. Leta austin Foster & associates is run by Leta, who in 1975 opened her first location in Palm Beach, now a charming boutique located at 64 Via Minzer. she speaks with pride: “Decoration is so much more than color and wallpaper. It’s a blend of ideas, people, and places.” Leta’s work is entirely creative—sophisticated, colorful, and wonderfully thought-out, especially considering the numerous constraints designers face. It’s a challenging job to turn a bare room into an exciting finished project. and Leta’s unwavering stylishness is in every way transforming. Her fascination with design began when she moved to New York City and took classes at the New York school of Interior Design. after the successes of her work in Florida, she went on to open an office in New York in 1990 and in California in 1992. Leta’s love for design is in her DNa; her three daughters, Elizabeth, sallie, and India, have all joined the family business. “the California office is now on its own as Elizabeth Dinkel Design associates,” Leta tells me. sallie and India work with their mother in New York and Palm Beach, respectively. as interior designers, the Fosters have 82 QUEst
perfect pitch. Leta is accruing all sorts of honors; House and Garden called her one of the “100 greatest american Interior Designers” and she was included in House Beautiful as one of the 20th century’s most influential interior designers. Before I had my conversation with Leta, I studied many of her projects, all of which had a soothing quality and heeded the inherent charisma of the room. there was a Park avenue duplex that she designed with a large spiraling staircase. Her choice of furniture—a bending backless settee and a chair with upside-down u-shaped legs—matched its flowing curvature; the wallpaper and stair-carpet featured circular patterns that accented an arched door. Everything came together perfectly. When I asked Leta if she planned around aboriginal objects in a room, she claimed that to ignore that “indigenous something” is to throw a lot out of kilter. “My mantra is that places should be a blend of their location, their architecture, and the people who live within them.” We also talked about taking risks. “If you don’t ever take risks, you just are going to die a bore.” But even at her most daring, her designs are both lovely and livable, all while staying in tune with the client’s vision. the idea of her slowing down is not something she subscribes to. “I don’t plan to ever retire.” u
co u rte s y o f le ta f o s te r & a s s o c i at e s ; K a ry n M i lle t ( b e d ro o M by e l i z a b e t h d i n K e l )
By alex R. TRaveRs
this page: a stunning florida living room designed by leta foster (above); three seperate home desgins by leta austin foster & associates (below). opposite page, from left: a living room in Palm beach by leta foster; a bedroom by elizabeth dinkel; a living room by leta foster.
Who is on YouR side? by judith l. pearson
RecenT neWs heAdlines highlight
the ever increasing litigation against art dealers, galleries, and other traditional market leaders, speaking to the continued lack of transparency in the art market. A recent New York Times article, entitled “Gagosian suit offers Rare look at Art dealing” by Randy Kennedy, traces the account of a collector who is suing the gallery where he is a client. he claims that there was self-dealing, as well as a lack of consent from a seller. Much like the fabled dwarf Rumpelstiltskin, some industry participants hold onto the view that the art market—from an integrity standpoint—has no problems. But the market is replete with examples of these problems. other, more forward-thinking stakeholders in the industry recognize the need for change. But, instead of simply reciting the standard notion of “transparency” (the traditional translation of this being about pricing), the more critical focus should be improved, more practical, and sounder transactional standards. The fundamental problem with the art market is not opaqueness in pricing but opaqueness in the transaction. Willing buyers and willing sellers having no compulsion to actively establish the “fair market value” of works. With the globalization of the art market, the importance of the middleman has begun to decline. Today’s collectors are often self-educated connoisseurs. The internet and the advent of commercial inventory databases and trading platforms have created channels of independent access that are diffusing the
This page: “Starry Night” by Vincent van Gogh, the painter who participated in the Impressionism movement, which ushered in the era
CO U RTE S Y O F A R I S
of Modern Art. Opposite page: Judith L. Pearson, author of this piece and president of ARIS Title Insurance Corporation.
control of traditional brick-and-mortar galleries and auction houses. Because of how the industry currently operates, it is impossible to eliminate gaps in ownership information, uncertainty over who is the current owner of the object, and be sure whether a party has the legal authority necessary to sell the work and any gaps in the overall succession of documentation. simultaneously, the onslaught of litigation on the related issues of authenticity, valuation, and title suggests that collectors are more and more frequently demanding sound transactional practices grounded in fiduciary duty. simply put, smart collectors want the assurance that the art they buy is purchased for a fair value, is authentic (accurately attributed to an artist and not a fake or forgery), and is free and clear of any lien, encumbrance, or other issue that could impact the buyer’s ability to assume clear and absolute legal title. in all other industries, such as real estate and banking, advisors and intermediaries like agents and fiduciaries have an obligation to inform the client that they are representing about details like: from whom and how much the seller is to be paid, whether there are any conflicts of interest, and how any conflicts will be
resolved. Translated to the art world and driven by current litigation, art dealers, galleries, and auction houses are required to disclose which party or parties they represent and to seek explicit consent from the client or clients if the party will represent both sides—the seller and the buyer. This disclosure is integral to an agency relationship. under most state laws—and most asset classes—an agent or fiduciary paricipating in an undisclosed dual-agency relationship is legally actionable because of the inherent conflict of interest. Astute collectors should understand these growing market dynamics and consider proactive measures to ensure the integrity of their transactions. Thoughtful and proactive parties can manage their own transaction through better standards of practice and be part of the evolution in transactional standards, market-wide. The neutral third-party lens of a title insurer should be a key ingredient for any significant art purchase, the sale of a charitable gift, or an estate plan. in the real estate world, title insurance companies act independently and without conflict of interest to evaluate and confirm the real estate transaction through a financial guaranty. The title insurance company reviews legal title, assesses
moral hazard risk, cures easily identifiable defects, issues policy, and facilitates the close by completing the transaction in escrow. doing so assures the accurate and complete transfer of all funds consistent with the terms of the transaction. The same holds true in the art market through a title insurance company focusing on the unique aspects of the art and collectibles market and assuring the integrity of purchases, sales, and other transactions. This is done through a similar process of examining, confirming, and guaranteeing through a financial guaranty the fair market value of the object plus defense costs, in a confidential, insurance industry/government-regulated and independent way that manages the art market risks. such an approach helps market parties efficiently eliminate otherwise pervasive conflicts of interest, which are many times unintentional, when multiple agents are involved on one or both sides of a transaction. This approach helps an astute collector ensure who is really on his or her side as they continue to buy and sell in the market. u For more information about ARIS Title Insurance Corporation, call 212.563.3600 or visit aristitle.com. MARch 2013 85
fields of dreams B y l i ly h o a g l a n d
“a year afTer i started, i went to see my bank manager. He
asked me how long i was going to keep up this hobby,” recounts randle siddeley with a laugh. “This ‘hobby’ has turned into a huge cottage industry.” now the head of both randle siddeley associates and siddeley landscape designs america, siddeley has certainly proven his early detractors wrong. His lush creations are now spread across the globe in europe, asia, the middle east, africa, and north america. siddeley’s philosophy is simple: create landscapes that look resplendent through all seasons, will last for generations, and incorporate elements of ecological sustainability. “When creating a beautiful garden, don’t think just of the short term,” he explains. That philosophy has resulted in amazing gardens, from a fantastical oasis spun out of the desert in abu dhabi, to a full english garden in the small backyard of a townhouse in the middle of london. Wherever the project, siddeley is most excited by tricky situations. “Whether it’s abu dhabi or China, the difficult challenges are extraordinary. if you don’t have the passion, this isn’t the right business to be in.” His own passion for each new venture is illustrated in his book, Garden. He will be signing copies at lars Bolander in Palm Beach at 4 p.m. on march 26. one of his current projects is restoring the park of the armenian genocide memorial site in time for the 100th anniversary of the genocide in 2015. His enthusiasm for the project is evident, in part because it’s a chance to tie together his love of beauty with a larger cause. as lord Kenilworth, he is a wellknown sustainability advocate and works hard to raise awareness on environmental issues in the House of lords. He inherited his father’s creativity as well as his title: interior designer John siddeley had a tremendous career, even designing the Harlequin suite at the dorchester Hotel. randle siddeley and his team approach each new opportunity with delight. “you get to work with your hands—hard work—and see your rewards. When the client sees at what we’ve created, and their eyes light up, that’s what turns me on at the end of the day.” u For more information, visit www.randlesiddeley.co.uk 86 QUesT
clockwise from top: a city garden in london was transformed into a sophisticated oasis; a new Jersey garden gets a whimsical treehouse; the design for a house in tel aviv includes a luxurious
r a n d le s i d d e le y
co u rte s y o f
pool; a classic chelsea garden with clean lines.
THE GIFT oF STaRS Many boyS studying physics at the Harrow School in London also choose to study astronomy. To encourage that interest, an astronomy observatory equipped with a highpowered state-of-the-art telescope has recently been purchased and installed on the roof of the Physics Department. The observatory can accommodate up to nine people at a time and the telescope can be operated from downstairs. no other school in the U.K. has anything to match the high level of specification at this observatory. The installation will be named the Rayleigh observatory, after the eminent old Harrovian scientist John William Strutt, 3rd baron Rayleigh (1842-1919), who discovered argon and was a recipient of the nobel Prize in Science. “The Rayleigh observatory will be an awe-inspiring facility for all Harrovians and the entire school community to enjoy for years to come,” commented Chris barry, head of the Physics Department. “Its research-quality telescopes, cameras, and filters will open up the wonders of the universe to all of us. We will produce astounding images of the moon, planets, nebulae, and even immensely distant galaxies, tens of millions of light years away. Its dedicated solar telescope will 88 QUEST
also enable us to observe the sun in all its hyperactive and explosive glory during the forthcoming solar maximum.” The telescope was funded by Vikram and Meera Gandhi, who generously hosted the Development Trust Summer Party at their beautiful Mayfair home in London in June 2012. The reception was attended by 80 guests who heard speeches by the headmaster and Meera. Through the Giving back Foundation of new york, of which Meera is founder and CEo, the Gandhi family have generously made possible the purchase of the new telescope. The grand opening took place in november, when the observatory was officially opened by Dr. nicholas Patrick, a famous naSa astronaut and alumnus of the Harrow School who has been on two missions to the International Space Station. The Giving back Foundation’s motto, also Meera Gandhi’s own life motto, is, “We are to the universe only as much as we give back to it.” These words are now inscribed on the observatory wall at Harrow. as Meera said, “It is as important to support the growth of established institutions as it is to support grassroots institutions of learning for the underprivileged.” u
co u rte s y o f t h e g i v i n g b ac k f o u n dat i o n
The new observatory made possible by the Giving Back Foundation will give Harrovians a close-up of the wonders of the universe.
opposite page: the new observatory at the harrow school, made possible by the giving back foundation. this page, clockwise from top: observatory supporters, from left, rossana and dr. nicholas Patrick, Meera and vikram gandhi, chris barry, headmaster Jim hawkins, and simon bennet (principal contractor) with his wife, elena kostyaeva; the state-of-the-art telescope; the new sign on the observatory wall, with the inspirational quote.
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rooms with great ceiling height, fabulous light, period hardwood floors, extensive millwork, crown molding, French doors and four fireplaces. Elegant Entrance Hall. Formal Living and Dining Rooms. Music Room. Library. Chef’s Kitchen. Breakfast Room. Five Bedrooms. Gated drive to seven breathtaking acres with Pool and Pool House. Organic Vegetable Garden. $3,695,000
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LUMINOUS JULIA By DANIEL CAPPELLO PhOtOgrAPhED By JULIE SKArrAtt
Sitting down for cocktails at the King Cole Bar at The St. Regis New York, Julia Loomis sets aside a black-and-red clutch with rose detailing from Ralph Lauren Collection while wearing Valentinoâ€™s black silk spaghetti-strap eyelet dress, Jimmy Chooâ€™s zebra Viper pumps, and MISH jewelry: the Kate bracelet in white topaz and white diamonds; Arden earrings with green amethyst; and the Bili Bili ring in white topaz. MARCH 2013 95
At the King Cole Bar, Julia is radiant in Angel Sanchez’s triplex gazar dress with floral appliqué back, Asprey’s diamond Feather earrings, and MISH’s Honeywood cuff in 18-kt. yellow gold with white diamond pavé. The red lizard Café clutch by Ralph Lauren Collection sits at her side. 96 QUEST
Spring showers? Not to worry: The St. Regis’s house Bentley, the first 2013 Bentley Mulsanne to debut in the United States, is there to keep Julia safe from the elements as she heads out for a midtown shopping spree— in Belstaff ’s Hanover dress and Studley belt, Ralph Lauren Collection platform sandals, and John Hardy’s Batu silverand-onyx chandelier earrings.
Pausing on the marble staircase, Julia peeks out of the latest Versace sunglasses for spring in a silk crêpe twisted kimono-sleeve blouse in ink and laser-cut short with leather waistband in sapphire by Monique Lhuillier. She wears Gucci’s high-heel sandals in mystic white patent leather with buckle, Roberto Coin’s 18-kt. rose gold ring with diamonds and pink sapphires, and MISH’s Ipanema earrings with larimar, and holds the Taylor clutch in bone with silk taffeta Peggy panel by Eponymous.
Julia, roaming the gilt-speckled hallways of The St. Regis, is the picture of carefree spring beauty in this rose silk chiffon evening dress and black calf platforms, both from Ralph Lauren Collection. She also wears the Sea Fan French Wire earrings with pink coral set in 18-kt. rose gold with champagne diamond pavĂŠ by MISH.
MARCH 2013 99
Relaxing in the bedroom of a Fifth Avenue Suite at The St. Regis, Julia is all smiles in this greenand-black silk crêpe de Chine pin-print bubble dress by ADEAM and Olive Leaf amethyst drop earrings in 18-kt. gold by Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co.
WATCH OUT, NEW YORK: Julia Loomis is poised to take the
stage. Ever since we first noticed her here at Quest, we’ve been intrigued—who is this fresh-faced beauty who seems to be everywhere we turn, sitting front-row at fashion shows, showing up at downtown parties and uptown events, walking side-byside with her pal Genevieve Jones? The Ivy-educated Loomis has recently had her fashionable hand in several projects, both in town and around the globe. Some might recognize her from a stint as a market editor at W magazine; others, from her trips halfway around the world to develop the product and branding of Genevieve Jones’s fine100 QUEST
jewelry collection. This spring, she’s flexing her entrepreneurial muscles while launching some forthcoming development projects. And she does it all with a sense of style all her own. For our annual fashion photo story, we asked Julia if she’d mind checking in to The St. Regis New York for a weekend of spring shopping—and fashion modeling. With hints of Brooke Shields, a pinch of Amanda Peet, and the model-like moves of Melissa George, Julia proved the perfect muse. We’re sure we haven’t seen the last of the luminous Julia Loomis. And we couldn’t imagine a more stellar way of capturing her on-the-rise status, here in our pages. u
In the living room of a Fifth Avenue Suite, Julia lets in spring with Narciso Rodriguez’s floral bugle embroidered top in nude and white and nylon crêpe sable white trousers, Manolo Blahnik’s BB heels, and jewelry by MISH: the Hana bamboo bangle in turquoise and Simple Box earrings with pagoda enhancers in turquoise and chrysoprase.
Julia laces up in Jimmy Chooâ€™s Dream sandal in natural gloss elaphe and orchid-woven suede with multi tassels and metal coins. Sheâ€™s dressed for the season in the celadon linen two-in-one long-and-lean jacket and pleated short by Veronica Beard paired with a white silk-chiffon shell from Sportmax, and Roberto Coinâ€™s Bollicine ball-drop earrings in 18-kt. yellow gold with diamonds and violet enamel and matching Bollicine oval ring.
After a successful day of shopping at Miu Miu, Bergdorf Goodman, and Louis Vuitton, Julia makes a triumphant return on the stairs of The St. Regis in Carolina Herrera’s electric orange sleeveless lace blouse, Sportmax’s white cotton trouser, Jimmy Choo’s Bolt booties in floral printed python, and MISH’s large Turquoise Bead necklace. Beauty styling by Fedor (hair) and Shiko Vun (makeup), both for Valery Joseph Salon. Fashion assistant: Alex R. Travers. Shoot assistants: Alice Rao and Sarah Choi.
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fashion fantasy BY DANIEL CAPPELLO ILLUSTRATED BY BROOKE HAGEL
While hitting the runways for the Spring 2013 shows last September, our fashion director noticed some standout looks that would perfectly suit some of New York’s leading ladies. Here, he sits down with illustrator Brooke Hagel to imagine some of his favorite spring fashions on the beacons of style Hilary Geary Ross As the scribe of Quest’s monthly “Appearances” column, Hilary is often spotted in Oscar de la Renta, one of her favorite designers. Here she is pictured in the designer’s ribbon jacquard blouse and wool silk pencil skirt for spring.
depicted in these pages.
Lauren Bush Lauren Long before she was Mrs. David Lauren, Lauren was a model and style icon all her own. Today, when not traveling the globe in the name of her FEED Projects charity, Lauren might be spotted on the red carpet, where she would turn heads in this scarlet Georgette evening dress from Ralph Lauren Collection.
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Carolina Herrera The grand duchess of women’s fashion, Carolina Herrera is her own label’s greatest brand ambassador. And nothing this season says “Carolina” more than the thought of Mrs. Herrera in her own gold-and-ivory baroque lamé jacquard gown.
Lee Radziwill Lee Radziwill is a fashion muse for the ages. Often on the arm of her friend Calvin Klein, she would be ever-chic (and sleek) in this ivory textured viscose trim jacket and white double-faced matte satin pant from Calvin Klein Collection.
Aerin Lauder Aerin has recently taken her grandmother Estée’s lead by founding her own beauty line, AERIN. This spring, wouldn’t she be sweet in this lambskin tank top, full-grain lambskin skirt with knit wool finishings, and goatskin shoes from Hermès?
Amanda Burden She’s not your average director of the New York City Department of City Planning and chair of the City Planning Commission. But in this Tom Ford sable-wool silk-cashmere blend sweater and patent-leather skirt, Amanda Burden could bulldoze the best of them—with her style alone.
Julia Koch At any of the Manhattan luncheons or black-tie charity events that she attends or chairs, everyone anticipates the same questionâ€”what will Julia be wearing? With her statuesque presence and soft brunette looks, all cameras would turn to Julia in this jasmine green silk marocain gown with flounce neckline from Gucci.
Iris Apfel The legendary Iris Apfel, whose oversized round frames are a trademark of her unique look, has collaborated this spring with EyeBobs to create a collection of sunglasses bearing her name. This mink flower coat from Prada would be the perfect complement to her signature outsize jewelry and slim cigarette pants.
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this page: eminent Victorian royal captain George lindsay holford, drawn for a 1899 Vanity Fair cartoon. opposite page: the Burlington arcade in 2011.
THE PERFECT GENTLEMAN By chris meigher
The pursuit of elegance in men’s attire inevitably leads a gentleman to London’s historic West End.
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As A MuCH younger publisher, climbing
through the ranks at TIME Inc.—that once venerable “House that Luce Built”— my international responsibilities had me traveling in and out of London for many years on countless trips. Back then, London’s West End was the epicenter of sophisticated taste and timeless style—a genuine magnet for younger men who admired and emulated the sartorial traditions of the well-appointed English gentleman. Fortuitously, the Time & Life building in London was conveniently located on the corner of New Bond and Bruton streets. As such, I most always bedded down at The Connaught, a bastion of charm and discretion, and more expediently, a five-minute jaunt through Berkeley square to our offices. MARCH 2013 111
this page, from top: a leather portable writing desk from smythson; the sign above turnbull & asser (inset); a stiff wing collar; mr. Gale, the head cutter at turnbull & asser’s Bury street bespoke shope. opposite page: the Berry Bros. & rudd shop sign (inset); shirt boxes inside Budd ltd.; hatter james lock & co.’s sign (inset); the tools of the trade for the shirtmakers.
A modern gentleman can be dressed from homburg to oxfords by the same by King Edward VII; similarly, one could follow the present Prince of Whales to his shirtmaker. The makers of gentleman’s requisites were—and still are—essential to a gentleman’s success in town.
Being a true New York pedestrian, I walked everywhere in London, and soon developed my own “bespoke route” through the narrow streets, hidden passageways, and luxury arcades of Mayfair, Piccadilly, and St. James’s. My extended loop included the enclave of shops and singularly named purveyors known as Budd, Lock, Lobb, Purdey, Fox, and Berry Brothers, with time taken out for lunch at Green’s, Simpson’s, the oyster bar at Wiltons, or the kind invitation to the inner sanctums of White’s Club and Boodle’s. Some years later, I would delightedly take my two daughters in tow for this same tailored tour, which came to be known as “Dad’s Dandee Walk.” (A few frock shops were begrudgingly added to the loop, including a mandatory stop at D. R. Harris’s Chemist Emporium for honey sweets and hard candy!) Most recently, James Sherwood, the celebrated British
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historic firms patronized
this page, from top: the bespoke stationary room of sythson’s new Bond street shop is not visible from the shop floor; the bronze sculpture of George ‘Beau’ Brummell, with an inscription that reads “to be truly elegant, one should not be noticed”; the Floris shop’s label (inset); Prime minister winston churchill’s favorite armchair. opposite page, from top: cigar-bands art of the belle époque included portraits royals like King edward the Vii; the robert lewis business is a mecca for pipe smokers.
Back then, London’s West End was the epicenter of sophisticated taste and timeless style—a genuine magnet for younger men who admired and emulated the sartorial traditions of the well-appointed
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author, broadcaster, and curator, has published a stunning new book entitled The Perfect Gentleman (Thames & Hudson)—a smartly written and beautifully illustrated tome that traces the history of the aforementioned West End neighborhood and its legendary merchants, plus many more that I’d overlooked or forgotten. As you’ll clearly witness on the pages following, The Perfect Gentleman does a masterful job of capturing the craftsmanship of these hatters, bootmakers, gunsmiths, tobacconists, and other artisans, as well as the unique sensibility of their eccentric environments. Sherwood was granted unique access to previously unpublished material, and allowed into private archives, weaving their stories together in a way that brilliantly showcases these craftsmen and the high standards they have upheld for centuries. This visually rich book goes a long way to remind each of us Anglophilic wannabes that Samuel Johnson (or was it Boswell?) hit it spot-on when he famously quipped: “When a man is tired of London, he is tired of life itself.” u MARCH 2013 115
Coming Up Roses
SHE’S AS PRETTY and as put together as a political campaign wife, but has opinions—and isn’t inhibited to say what’s on her mind. She’s the belle of the uptown ball, and also of the downtown after-party. She’s as accomplished as the “superwoman” of the ’90s, but in a hemline from the ’60s. She is, in other words, the woman of the twenty-tens, and she’s dressed up to the nines. This woman of contrasts, complexities, and a refreshing sense of good-ole-American honesty could very well be the designer Lela Rose herself. Or she might be any of today’s leading women who have gravitated toward the designer as their go-to choice when it comes to dressing up, be it for work, day, or evening. Lela Rose, a famously good and gracious host (not to mention a highly sought-after guest), is that person at the dinner party who makes you want to shuffle the place cards so that you’re seated next to her. With her easygoing yet elegant blondhaired, blue-eyed looks, and her charismatic laughter and smile, she can always be counted on for bringing the freshest point of
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By daniel cappello
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view to the table. And the same might be said of her fashion. Rose, who was raised in Texas and went to school in Colorado, where nature and colors left an enduring mark on her inspiration, has brought a thoroughly fresh vantage point to modern American fashion. Her aesthetic, which combines equal parts elegance to whimsy, is undeniable—and unfailingly realized through a devotion to brilliant color and handcrafted detail. After graduating from Parsons School of Design in 1993, she trained under the designers Richard Tyler and Christian Francis Roth, each of whom impressed her with a high regard for couture-quality fabric and an exacting attention to detail. In 1998, she broke out on her own with her signature collection, Lela Rose, built on a design philosophy of creating hand-finished clothes executed in the most original this page: the designer lela rose, photographed by steven Pan (inset); the lace appliquéd sheath dress from the designer’s spring 2013 collection. opposite page: a sketch of the same lace appliquéd sheath dress for spring. MARCH 2013 117
fabrics, exuding a casual luxury and refinement. Today, she is forging clothes for the modern, sophisticated woman who embodies a spirit of effortless elegance, which might account for her devoted following among some of the most stylish New York women. As the jewelry designer Blair Husain explains, “When I wear a Lela dress, I feel complete. I can go to work, grab the kids from school, and meet my husband for dinner while looking elegant, but never overdone.” This is because Rose’s pieces transition so seamlessly throughout the day, and because they can be dressed up or down. “They are also seasonless,” Husain explains, “and can be worn over and over again.” According to interior designer Celerie Kemble, “Lela crosses that bridge of grace and grit like nobody else.” Kemble admires the mix of Rose’s highly styled fashions—the beauty of the details, the commitment to quality—that are still always “without pretense, and always in the spirit of fun.” For Kemble, Rose’s clothing “carries that energy—it always balances the too-beautiful-to-believe with something that has a harder edge or strong silhouette. Her dresses feel feminine but powerful.” And, for anyone following Rose’s current collection this spring, that feminine but powerful spirit—that essence of the does-itall and does-it-beautifully woman of our day—is on full display. Born from a brainy homage to an American installation artist, the collection is Lela Rose through and through, from the ladylike lace and flowers to the unexpected edge of chain details. Here, we sit down with the designer to learn more about her latest collection, what inspires her, and where you might find her when not at work in her studio. DANIEL CAPPELLO: What inspired this collection? LELA ROSE: The Spring 2013 collection centers around the duality between lightness and mass, and fragility and permanence, as seen in the works of American artist Jim Hodges. Hodges’ colorful and simplistic pieces are reflections of the frailty of the human experience, as seen in diaphanous voile prints, translucent floral embroideries, and withering landscape organza. As a poetic-process artist, Hodges’ signature curtains of flowers and woven webs of chains set the tone for reflected floral prints, spindly metal necklines, and spider lace. Densely layered camouflage landscapes suggest the artist’s preoccupation with the natural world in its most abstract form. DC: Do you have a favorite piece from this collection? LR: My favorite piece is an ivory silk organza dress with inketched three-dimensional flowers appliquéd all over. This piece was based on one of my favorite drawings by Jim Hodges and I love how ethereal it is. this page: a sketch from the designer’s spring 2013 collection. opposite page, clockwise from top left: cuffed bodice dress with full skirt; oneshoulder dress with tucked skirt; short-sleeve sport jacket with embroidered short-sleeve blouse and pleated front trouser; cowled bodice gown.
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looks from lela rose’s spring 2013 collection showed off bright spring colors and hints of floral themes, including—from left to right—the draped bodice dress with cowl detail and full skirt; the with piped seams; and the crewneck sheath dress with linen frontal panel.
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cap-sleeve a-line dress
DC: You were raised in Texas. Are you a Texas girl? Did your upbringing influence your sense of style? LR: I am a Texas girl and always will be. My kids also identify with Texas more than anywhere else even though they were born in New York City. The Texas women I knew growing up were always dressed to go and would wear color boldly. I have always worked in saturated colors and I think much of that is from my Texas roots. DC: Was design in your genes? Where does your love and talent for fashion come from? LR: My mother is very design-aware and loved to make things herself. She would sew her gowns for the Art Museum galas and I would love to help her. I think seeing her make glamorous pieces—instead of everyday items—helped foster my love of fantasy and fashion. DC: Do you remember the first piece you ever designed? LR: Yes, it was a ruched ivory with black polka-dotted taffeta dress… I’m not sure we’ll be seeing it in the collection anytime soon! DC: Tell us a little something about your design process. What inspires you, and how do you see an idea through and into an actual item of clothing? LR: I love fabrics more than almost anything else. We design many of our fabrics with our mills and it is the most exciting part of the process. Colors inspire me as well and beautiful things that are hand-made. I also think of New York City as being a wealth of inspiration. I bike around the city as a means of transportation and I feel like I am always seeing something new, from buildings, to colors, and so on. DC: Do you have any fashion role models or designers you especially look up to? Any style icons? LR: I have many favorite designers, from Comme Des Garçons to Lanvin, but this is always changing. As for style icons, I have always loved Audrey Hepburn. DC: You worked under Christian Francis Roth and Richard Tyler before launching your own line. How did that help you? LR: I think it is essential to work for other designers. I actually wish I had spent more time doing it before launching my own collection. I learned an immense amount from both designers I worked for, and much of it informs how I work today. Christian and Richard had a real commitment to detail and beautiful fabrics. I learned so much about fabric while working for Richard and it taught me how to work directly with mills in designing my own textiles. DC: Tell us how you transitioned from ready-to-wear to bridal. LR: The brand has always been about a woman going somewhere: she has events to go to and we want to dress her for those events. The launch of the wedding collection was a natural transition for us as a wedding is the ultimate event. I would find that we were dressing brides for the parties surrounding her wedding, and it led me to believe that I wanted to be a larger part of MARCH 2013 121
the event itself. I approach each collection with an eye towards what is going on in fashion currently but wanting each piece to have a timeless quality. Both collections have a good dose of hand-crafted details, and that is something that I think makes the collection special. DC: What’s your favorite color? LR: I love citrine both at home and to wear.
DC: Are you an uptown or a downtown girl? LR: I am more of a downtown girl whom most people would think of as an uptown girl. DC: Any favorite spots in New York? Restaurants? Jazz clubs? LR: I live for my next meal, so I have many favorite restaurants and love what chefs are doing. I actually find much of what they do as an inspiration for all design. Some of my favorite chefs are Dan Kluger (ABC Kitchen), Emma Hearst (Sorella), and Matthew Lightner (Atera). We spend many weekends biking around, finding new restaurants. My kids are amazing eaters. DC: Other than design, what are some of your hobbies? LR: I love to cook, so I spend a lot of time going through spice stores and ethnic groceries. We bike all over the city and will spend much of our day eating and finding new food stores. u 122 QUEST
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DC: What’s your own personal style? LR: I am very much the customer for the brand. I wear dresses most every day (including casual versions on the weekends). Dresses are one zip, and you’re done. I love to layer pieces with fun necklaces, tights, sweaters, and accessories, but the dress is a great way to look put together quickly.
this page: a sketch of the color-blocked camouflage simple sheath from spring 2013; the same dress on the runway; swing-back shell paired with colorblocked camouflage skirt. opposite page: draped cowl-front dress; the designer is an avid biker in new york city, as seen here upon arrival for an event at Bergdorf Goodman.
2013 B Y L I LY H O A G L A N D
Joanne de Guardiola and Amy Fine Collins, two of society’s fiercest fashionistas.
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THE QUEST BEST–DRESSED LIST
Hilary Geary ross sparkles in personality and style.
the Quest Bestâ€“DresseD LIst
kick kennedy in a fun frock, pictured with teddy kunhardt.
Aerin lauder naturally glows in a simple
Eleanor Ylvisakerâ€™s tousled tresses tie together her ensembles. 126 QUEST
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Jamee Gregory enlivens a room with a floral pattern. Amanda Brooks makes a statement in soft hues.
the Naturally Breezy Beauties IT cAn bE ARDUoUS to look effortless but, for some, itâ€™s a
piece of cake. These are the women who seem to look their best when letting their inner allure shine without too much adornment getting in the way. Their artistry is in their carefree style, which creates an aura of approachable sophistication that is often a very welcome breath of fresh air in any setting.
Elizabeth Pyne lauren Bush lauren likes to complement
portrays an expression of relaxed flair.
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her outfits with her FEED Projects bags.
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if the shoe fits By alex r. travers
How did the Musuem at the Fashion Institute of Technology come to curate one of the greatest collections of contemporary shoes? Here, our writer explores the mounting of a memorable exhibit—and why you should visit it.
My advice to approaching the “shoe obsession” exhibition at the Museum at the
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fashion institute of technology is to walk in and let it engulf you. curators dr. valerie steele, colleen hill, and fred dennis focused on the 21st century, with over 150 examples of contemporary footwear, “highlighting the extreme, lavish, and imaginative styles that have made shoes central to fashion.” and they don’t miss a thing. from classic Manolo Blahniks made popular by the styleconscious characters on Sex and the City to skeletal stilettos crafted out of resin, there’s a shoe for everyone to fantasize about.
This page, clockwise from top left: Gucci heels from Spring 2012; a Roger Vivier by Bruno Frisoni “Eyelash Heel”; Tom Ford lacquered heels; Charlotte Olympia’s “Kiss Me Delores” pumps. Opposite page: A Conspiracy by Gianluca Tamburini “Poinconneuse” heel. MaRch 2013 133
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this lift-off for fashion month—which extends from the first day of New york fashion Week to last show in Paris on March 6—examines our culture’s ever-growing fixation with extravagant footwear. But even if you don’t wear women’s shoes—i for one, do not—or fastidiously follow emerging designers, this show still grabs you. for starters, it’s knock-out beautiful. and you don’t need to know a damn thing about shoes to appreciate the artistic values present in “shoe obsession.” While diversity and excess are key themes of the show, the exhibition’s real energy comes from the loans of fervent collectors, such as daphne Guinness, Lynn Ban, and yliana yepez. the curators set the mood by dimming the lights and arranging thematic cases that dramatically spotlight the footwear. My favorites were the glass towers that highlighted the collectors’ loans; it’s a kick seeing their personal styles. in fact, it’s like peeking into their
closets. yliana yepez—the model-turned-designer—temporarily parted with a pair of alexander McQueen heels with a black bow at the ankle strap made around 2000. With that, she also lent a pair of 2010 azzedine alaïa ankle-high booties, a Roger vivier lacquered wedge sandal by Brunco frisoni, and a pair of charlotte olympia’s “Kiss Me delores”—a nude closed-toe pump with a pair of tom Wesselmann-esque lips blowing a kiss. yepez’s closet is both sexy and playful. i enjoyed learning more about the up-and-comers as well. My two favorites: chrissie Morris and aperlaï. Morris launched her first collection in spring 2008. her shoes, which are made in Bologna, are a nod to the italian artisans— incredibly well-crafted and intricate. What struck me about Morris’s shoes was the heel shape. one shoe, the “Beverly cubist,” had a jagged heel that matched the unconventional form of analytical cubism. aperlaï, run by the beautiful
alessandra Lanvin, is know for its use of artistic colors and exotic skins. Like Morris, Lanvin has her shoes made in italy. Watch out for these two. Bring on the vertiginous platforms and heels! there are two i’ll mention: first, Noritaka tatehana’s “Lady Pointe” platforms. these 18-inch—yes, you heard me correctly—platforms were made for a Lady Gaga t.v. performance. also worth seeing: christian Louboutin’s “fetish Ballerine.” “shoe obsession” is an artful journey that will restore your faith in the power of museums. the Museum at the fashion institute of technology, no ifs, ands, or buts, presents us with one of the greatest collections of contemporary footwear. Make the effort. u
This page, clockwise from top left: A pair of Chanel Resort 2009 “Gun Heels”; a Nicholas Kirkwood “Keith Haring” pump; a pair of Giuseppe Zanotti heel-less pumps from 2012; Prada’s fiery-hot “Heels on Wheels” from the Spring 2012 collection. Opposite page, clockwise from top left: An Azzedine Alaïa 2011 “Feather Heel”: a special edition of iris van Herpen for united Nude heels from 2010; an Alexander McQueen “Mechanical Heel” from 2010; an Aperlaï Fall 2011 platform heel; Masaya Kushino’s “The Wild Horse.”
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the styLe oF LeaDershIp
By daniel cappello
her majesty Queen elizabeth II is said to favor
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co r b i s ( k e n n e dy )
brightly colored clothes because, by her own admission, she must “be seen to be believed.” In other words, it is her duty to stand out from the crowd. Like so many leaders before her, the 21st-century monarch knows that clothes don’t merely make the man (or woman)—they establish power. From the elaborate togas of roman emperors, which required a stately bearing in order to stay in place, to the sober uniforms of iron-fisted dictators like hitler and mao, clothing has long served as an emblem of authority. and, in a new book by Dominique Gaulme and François Gaulme, Power & Style: A World History of Politics and Dress (Flammarion), we are treated to an elucidating and comprehensive look into the sociological aspect of clothing, giving new meaning to the saying, “tell me what you wear, and I’ll tell you who you are.” u
this page: a portrait of the sioux warrior turning bear by John alvin anderson, circa 1900. insets, above and below: the regal style of Queen Victoria, the Prince of Wales (future edward Vii), and princes george (future george V) and edward (future edward Viii), 1899; the cover of Power & Style (Flammarion). opposite page: President John F. kennedy exudes a youthful vigor aboard the yacht Honey Fitz, 1963.
This page: The Mode Museum, or MoMu, in Antwerp, Belgium. Opposite page: A look for Jean Paul Gaultier’s Haute Couture AutumnWinter 2002-2003 collection.
madame of the house By elizaBeth quinn Brown
today, personalities are integral to the branding of a company, particularly within the realm of fashion—think ralph lauren and donatella Versace, or everyone from oscar de la renta’s “oscarprGirl” erika Bearman to simon doonan for Barneys new york. as personality comes to define a brand more so than its product, it’s a challenge to comprehend the success of madame Grès. the designer deliberately shied away from the sensation caused by her collections. of course, this behavior was to the
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chagrin of her biographers, as well as anyone who admired her with interest. she was withdrawn, if not reclusive, but talented, divinely talented. and relentless—she was known to work until 2 a.m., reawakening at 6 a.m. in order to continue. the designer, née Germaine emilie Krebs, began her work in the 1930s, opening maison Grès at 1 rue de la paix by 1942. (the alias “Grès” was an anagram of “serge,” the name of the husband who would desert her for polynesia.) recently, the mode museum, or momu, in antwerp, Belgium, celebrated madame Grès’s beginning—and what followed—with a retrospective that was recently on display. Madame Grès: Sculptural Fashion (hannibal) was completed in commemoration of the event, serving as a memento of the formative moment in fashion. “madame Grès is not so much a subject. she’s a theme,” reads the book. “that of working on one’s life work. this is not a monograph, it is a reasoned catalogue where intimacy—or the lack of it—was of little importance, she believed.” Grès pursued sculpting before designing, a passion that was
apparent in her collections: “I wanted to become a sculptor. For me, working with stone or fabrics is the same thing.” Her work is identified through its draping, the earliest of which is reminiscent of ancient statues (later, Berber, Indian, and Persian influences would be incorporated), and its earthy palette. The strength of Grès’s talent was, perhaps, derived from her inability to sew or sketch, as other designers performed. Rather, she favored to work with a pair of scissors and pins, cutting and positioning cloth onto dressforms to create her distinctive “seamless” garments. “I never create a dress on the basis of a sketch,” she said. “I drape the material on a mannequin, then I thorougly study its nature, and it’s afterwards that I take my scissors. The cut is the this page: a look from Winter 1945 (above); a sketch from madame Grès’s spring-summer 1948 collection (below). opposite page, clockwise from top left: a look photographed by Katerina Jebb, 2011; a sketch from madame Grès’s spring-summer 1956 collection; the momu in antwerp, belgium.
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The “Madame Grès, la couture à l’œuvre” exhibition at the Musée Bourdelle in Paris, france, 2011; Madame Grès at work, as photographed by Boris lipnitzki, 1933 (inset).
“As soon as you find something personal and unique, you must exploit it thoroughly and continue to implement it without stopping and right to the end.” —MadaMe Grès
critical and most important phase of the creation of a dress. For each collection that I prepare, I completely wear out three pairs of scissors.” A critic once lauded Grès, saying of her looks: “They owe as much to sculpture as to couture.” It’s clear that the designer endowed the community with a vision—an experience—that is timeless. While she believed that, for her work to succeed, “loneliness is necessary and crushing,” she has proven herself a generous person to those she never knew, gifting designs to generation after generation that can speak for themselves. u
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this page: a statue to represent madame GrĂ¨sâ€™s designs, as photographed by boriz lipnitzki, 1939. opposite page: a compilation of photographs from the exhibition in antwerp, belgium.
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Shots In Time by daniel cappello photographs by terry oâ€™neill
This page: Anita Ekberg, Paris, 1967
Opposite page: David Bailey, London, 1963
A LL i m A g E s © T E r ry O ’ n E i LL / cO u rTE s y O f Acc E D i T i O n s
ThErE arE SomE namES that are synonymous with photo-
graphy itself: avedon, newton, Penn, and, to be sure, o’neill. as one of the most celebrated and collected photographers, few have captured the frontline of fame so broadly—and for so long—as Terry o’neill. For more than 50 years, he has photographed them all, from rock stars to presidents, European royals to the reigning kings and queens of the silver screen, at work, at play, in private. he pioneered backstage reportage photography, capturing the likes of Frank Sinatra, David Bowie, 148 QUEST
This page: Lauren Hutton, London, 1978 Opposite page: Twiggy, London, 1975
This page: charlotte rampling, London, 1976 Opposite page: Jean shrimpton, Buckinghamshire, England, 1963 00 QUEST
Sir Elton John, and Chuck Berry, and his oeuvre comprises a significant visual compendium of the history of rock and roll. his use of 35-mm. cameras on film sets and on the early pop-music shows of the â€™60s gave way to a new visual art form that used photojournalism to revolutionize formal portraiture. he met the famous and the notorious and approached them both with the same unbiased, often sympathetic, eye. his snap of the shutter in the most candid and unguarded of moments resulted in some of the most iconic images of our time. marCh 2013 151
This page: Britt Ekland and Patrick Lichfield, London, 1970 Opposite page: Audrey Hepburn, saint-Tropez, 1967
This spring, for the first time, o’neill has edited some 350 photographs in the form of a book that celebrates his 53-year-long career. Culled from over two million negatives from throughout his career, Terry O’Neill (aCC Editions) is a comprehensive and compelling display, not just of the subjects whom o’neill has called his own, but of a particular zeitgeist—the age of celebrity that we collectively inhabit. u Terry o’neill (ACC Editions) will be available for purchase in April 2013 for $95. Also available, 300 copies of a large-format special edition, signed and numbered, including a collectible print of Brigitte Bardot, for $799. Quest readers can receive a discounted price of $699 by calling 212.645.1111 or emailing email@example.com and mentioning “Quest.”
marCh 2013 153
balmy palm bEacH by hilary geary
IT may bE a Snowy cold winter in
new york city, but it still rocks 12 months a year! The highlight this month was my son Jackâ€™s opening of his gallery, Jack Geary contemporary (www. jackgearycontemporary.com). The inaugural show features works by the artist Ayse Wilson. ayse, a former painting assistant to Jeff Koons, has exhibited in both Turkey and the United States. Her colorful oils are a joy to behold. 154 QUEST
The room was packed with art admirers like Pat and Peter Nadosy, Karen and Richard LeFrak, Wilbur Ross, Judy and Alfred Taubman, Celia and Silas Chou, Nancy and Howard Marks, Lally Weymouth, Dailey and Gordon Pattee, David Patrick Columbia, Howard Cox, Mario Buatta, Lauren and John Veronis, Scarlett and Bill Robertson, Christina and Billy Bryan, Marshall Heyman, Antonia Milanos, Elizabeth
Pyne, Kate Pickett, Suzette and Ally Bully, Daisy Prince, Ted Geary, Sarah Pontius, Eugenie Niven Goodman, Meghan and Trevor Magyar, nancy Geary and Gordon Walker, Nicole and Graham Buck, Betsy Newell, Anson Frelinghuysen, Leah Frelinghuysen, Alexander Olch, Kristin and Charlie Allen, Willy and Nina Morton, Searcy and Hannah Ferguson, Nancy Hoppin, Maureen McAllister and Charlie Platt,
h i l a ry g e a ry
From left: Bob Forbes signing his book, beast Friends Forever, at linda and Barry Donahueâ€™s house; lady henrietta Spencer-Churchill at her luncheon.
Susie Jakes, Anne Bennett, Rachi and BJ Grant, Tony and Jess Perez, Carmen Perez, Sarah Fitzgerald, Evrard and Casey Fraise, Cornelia Ercklantz, Isabella Calder, and more. Another night, we popped into the Four Seasons Restaurant as Marie-Josée and Henry Kravis gave a book party in honor of general Stanley McChrystal and his new book, My Share of the Task. It’s a fascinating read with real insight into this hero’s life. Among the guests were Ezra Zilkha, Lally Weymouth, Barbara Walters, Charlie Rose, Nancy and Henry Kissinger, Linda and Mort Janklow, Don Marron, and more. The New York Philharmonic celebrated Chinese New Year—and the Year of the Snake—with a sold-out benefit concert followed by a seated dinner. Dress was Chinese-inspired costume or
Back to Palm Beach—not only for the glorious sunshine and tennis, golf, dinners, and dances—but also for parties for talented pals. We stopped by Linda and Barry Donahue’s lovely house to toast Robert Forbes of Forbes magazine fame, who just penned a wonderful children’s book, Beast Friends Forever. It’s a collection of charming and amusing poems with wonderful illustrations by Ronald Searle. A must-buy for kids of all ages! A big group turned up at the Colony Hotel in Palm Beach for the American Friends of British Art luncheon in order to applaud the beauteous and talented interior designer Lady Henrietta Spencer-Churchill. She has just finished another big, beautiful coffee-table book on decorating called The Life of the House: How Rooms Evolve. After a light delicious lunch, Henrietta treated us
thrown by designer Leta Foster at her divine shop, which is filled with goodies from D. Porthault and more! We also headed to the Red Cross Ball with ambassador Mary Ourisman at the helm, chairing the dance. It honored Dina Merrill Hartley, the actress and daughter of the late Marjorie Merriweather Post. All of Dina’s family turned up to salute her, including her very talented grandson Cole, who charmed all with his beautiful voice as he sang with Peter Duchin’s orchestra. It was a treat to hear him perform a song that his grandfather, Stanley Rumbough, composed for his grandmother, Dina. How romantic is that! One of the delights—really the sweetest thing—about being in Palm Beach is dining al fresco, so I was thrilled the following evening to find the tables set outside at Kate Ford and Frank
From left: Regis Philbin and Harry Benson at the Leta Foster store; Kate Gubelmann and Tom Quick toast 25 years of Quest at Wally Findlay Galleries.
black-tie. I loved the whole concert, but the beautiful music of the Snow Lotus Trio won my heart—and everyone else’s, too! Among the group were Karen and Richard LeFrak, Wilbur Ross, Blaine Trump and Steve Simon, Jenny and John Paulson, Lauren and John Veronis, Audrey and Martin Gruss, Christine and Steve Schwarzman, Kan Yue Lai, Jeannie Lawrence, Gary Parr, Oscar Tang, and more
to a fascinating lecture, pointing out and discussing the evolution of interior design and architecture, accompanied by a slideshow. The imagery highlighted not only Henrietta’s fine work, but also the interiors of such glorious places as Blenheim Palace (where Henrietta grew up), the Hearst Castle at San Simeon, and lots more. Also, I must mention the wonderful event for my book with Harry Benson, New York New York. It was
Chopin’s dinner for their houseguests ambassador Rudolf Bekink and his wife from the Netherlands. The next weekend, Wally Findlay Galleries celebrated Quest’s 25th anniversary with a grand and glorious display of its truly wonderful photographs that have been published throughout the past quarter of a century. All of Palm Beach came to toast Quest and everyone loved every minute of the festive cocktail party! u MARCH 2013 155
This New York Fashion Week, the city was our columnistâ€™s runway, as she dressed for everything from luncheons at Saks Fifth Avenue to Cinema Society after-parties, mixing and mingling with the crowd. by ElizabEth Quinn brown
Moncler presented its Moncler Grenoble Fall 2013 collection at Gotham Hall on February 9. 156 QUEST
pat r i c k m c m u ll a n
THE YOUNG & THE GUEST LIST
Christopher Wolf and Alexandra Pethtel at the East Side House Settlement’s Young Collectors Night.
Anastasiya Siro dressed festively for the East Side House Settlement event on January 31. Meghan Gefaell, Eiseley Tauginas, and Elizabeth Bishop at the Park Avenue Armory.
Whitney Larkin and Sam Wathen at a preview of the Winter Antiques Show at the Park Avenue Armory.
town & Country’s Kate Erickson and Micaela English at the Young Collectors Night.
Our columnist escaped for a weekend to at the JHouse,
Elizabeth Kurpis and Quest’s Lily Hoagland
a hotel in Greenwich, Connecticut (203.698.6980).
caught up over cocktails on January 31.
T.E. LAWrENCE SAid iN Seven Pillars of Wisdom: A Triumph,
“All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men, for they may act their dreams with open eyes, to make it possible.” i think that Young and the Guest List-ers seem to exist somewhere in the middle, living the dream—day and night... on January 31, the East Side House Settlement hosted its Young Collectors Night at the Winter Antiques Show. The
event takes place at the Park Avenue Armory, which is famed for things like hosting the presentation of the Marc Jacobs Fall 2013 collection. (Hot pants for September? Chic! And chilly.) Eight-hundred or so, including Stephanie Clark, Beryl Crofton-Atkins, and Michael Thom, browsed the booths, which featured everything from an early edition of Catcher in the Rye to pistols that were originally designed for dueling. on February 5, the associates committee of the Society of Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center hosted its luncheon MArCH 2013 157
at Café SFA on Eight at Saks Fifth Avenue. The ladies, including Allison Aston, Emilia Pfeifler, and Ivanka Trump, didn’t just lunch—they raised over $100,000 toward their goal of $2 million over five years. oh, and there was lemon tart with cream, so it was a win-win-win. And then it was New York Fashion Week. For me, the cadence always seems to go: a trim at the salon, a day or two of fiber before renouncing for ever and ever (again), a skipped Jill Stuart show (damn you, Saturday morning), and so on and so forth. My favorite event was the Moncler Grenoble presentation at Gotham Hall, where 300plus “stormtroopers” wearing looks from the Fall 2013 collection encircled the audience amid strobe-like effects—plus the music of “The Empire Strikes Back” from Star Wars. it was an experience, a theatrical one. i attempted to Vine, but then
Cole’s Greenwich Village—the It restaurant of the moment—is located at 118 Greenwich Avenue (212.242.5966). 158 QUEST
Society screening of beautiful Creatures, which was co-hosted by Dior Beauty.
settled for a glass of mulled wine. i chitchatted with a few of my favorites, Nate Freeman and Karen Klopp, and spotted Alessandra Codinha, Juliet Longuette, and Olivia Palermo in the sea of fur and puffers. on February 11, i attended a screening of Beautiful Creatures, which was hosted by the Cinema Society with dior Beauty. Then, to Cole’s Greenwich Village for the after-party where guests such as Harley Viera Newton, Christopher McDonald (of Happy Gilmore fame), and Alex Von Furstenberg snacked on sliders so scrumptious that i bet Kate Moss would have caved. (The hors d’œuvre at Cole’s Greenwich Village taste as good as skinny feels.) A quick kiss-kiss for Patrick McMullan and it was off to home... What’s next? i can’t think about that right now. if i do, i’ll go crazy. i’ll think about that tomorrow. u
pat r i c k m c m u ll a n
Darrell Hartman and Dana Drori at the Cinema
Eleanor Ylvisaker and Charlotte Ronson supported the Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center on February 5. Shoshanna Gruss, a member of the associates committee for the Society of Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center, at Café SFA on Eight at Saks Fifth Avenue on February 5.
Dianne Vavra at Cole’s Greenwich Village for a Cinema Society after-party on February 11.
Shana Scala, Carson Griffith, and Samantha Lim at Cole’s Greenwich Village.
Daniel Benedit and Johannes Huebl share a nightcap in Greenwich Village on February 11.
Caroline Weinberg and Michael Carl ditch Fashion Week for a Cinema Society after-party.
Veronica Beard and Ferebee Taube lunched with the ladies at Café SFA on Eight.
Kane Manera and Savannah Hoge share a kiss at the
Lauren Santo Domingo tied her outfit with
Cinema Society after-party for Beautiful Creatures.
a bow before lunching on February 5. MARCH 2013 159
This page: Diana Vreeland, aged nine (right), with her younger sister, Alexandra, in 1912. Inset: The recent biography empress of fashion: a life of Diana Vreeland by Amanda Mackenzie Stuart, published by HarperCollins.
ful to be wildly attractive,” famously declared diana vreeland, herself a wildly attractive columnist, editor, and fashion icon. Her compelling life was recently the subject of a well-received documentary, The Eye Has To Travel, and now unfolds across the pages of Empress of Fashion, by Amanda Mackenzie Stuart. From her rise at Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue, to her coups at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the woman behind the wit continues to fascinate us. She despised the ordinary, which made it difficult for even her closest companions to truly know her, since she would never want to reveal a dull story about herself. Added to that problem was the fact that she was the original Anna Wintour-esque impossible fashion editor, establishing hierarchy by addressing one young assistant only as “Girl.” This tough, eccentic character who instrinsically changed fashion and its industry remains a bright puzzle people will always want to solve. —Lily Hoagland
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