Quest Magazine October 2024

OCTOBER 2024

THE CHARLESTON ISSUE

DEBORAH FISHER NATHANIEL RUSSELL HOUSE CHARLESTON, SC

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90

114

CONTENTS The Charleston Issue 90

CHARLESTON, PAST AND PRESENT This historically rich city has seen

remarkable growth over the past decade, with an influx of new residents and businesses bringing fresh energy to the area. by Elizabeth Meigher

96

LOWCOUNTRY LOCALS A roundup of four tastemakers who are

redefining Charleston’s style and flair, adding new dimensions to the city’s cultural landscape. by Caroline Griswold

106 WOMEN WHO SHOOT WITH STYLE Women now represent a significant segment of the UK shooting market, prompting fashion brands and gunmakers to create products specifically tailored to the female form. by Jonathan Young

110 ARTWORK IN THE SHOOTING FIELD Handmade British guns are not just functional; they are artistic masterpieces, blending craftsmanship and beauty.

by Jonathan Young

114 QUEST STYLE A look at Charleston style through the generations. by Chris Meigher & Elizabeth Meigher

120 CHARLESTON SHOPPING A guide to the best boutiques on King Street and beyond.

96

A S P R E Y. C O M

THE CHAOS JE WELLERY COLLEC TION

6 7 8 M A D I S O N AV E N U E B E T W E E N 6 1 S T & 6 2 N D S T R E E T S , N E W Y O R K , N Y 1 0 0 6 5 , T E L + 1 2 1 2 6 8 8 1 8 1 1

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74

CONTENTS Columns

78

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SOCIAL DIARY Another month on the social circuit. by David Patrick Columbia

68

HARRY BENSON Our columnist reflects on his experience photographing 13 U.S. presidents ahead of the upcoming election.

70

TAKI The real-life Mephistopheles. by Taki Theodoracopulos

72

FASHION The sparkling history of Merrichase, founded by Jennifer Powers in 2015. by Brooke Kelly Murray

74

BOOKS Rizzoli’s latest release highlights the remarkable life of Lady Pamela, as told by her daughter, India Hicks.

78

FRESH FINDS Autumn’s latest trends. by Brooke Kelly Murray & Elizabeth Meigher

82

JEWELRY For over six decades, Elizabeth Gage has captivated clients worldwide

84

COMMUNITY Charleston native and Handsome Properties founder, Deborah Fisher, shares her invaluable local expertise.

88

SOCIAL CALENDAR Upcoming October fêtes and philanthropic happenings, and looking ahead to November.

124 YOUNG & THE GUEST LIST Highlights from York Fashion Week and more. by Brooke Kelly Murray 128 SNAPSHOT A local artist brings Charleston’s beauty to life through portraits. by Brooke Kelly Murray

V I S I T T H E P R AT E S I B O U T I Q U E B LO O M I N G DA L E ’S 59 T H ST R E E T 6 T H F L O O R , N E W YO R K C I T Y

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HARRY BENSON KATE GUBELMANN TONY HALL ALEX HITZ ROBERT JANJIGIAN RICHARD JOHNSON KAREN KLOPP JAMES MACGUIRE HAVEN PELL CHUCK PFEIFER JANIE PIERREPONT LIZ SMITH (R.I.P.) TAKI THEODORACOPULOS CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

HARRY BENSON CAPEHART PHOTOGRAPHY BILLY FARRELL MARY HILLIARD CRISTINA MACAYA CUTTY MCGILL

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T ◆

T H E C H A R L E S

THE STON CHARLE ISSUE

T O N I S S U E

L’S CHURCH ST. MICHAE TH CAROLINA N, SOU CHARLESTO

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Clockwise from bottom left: Uncle Sam; Serena Cross (née Williams) about to drop a high, driven bird; Quest’s October 2023 cover; journalist Jonathan Young; cheerleaders at the College of Charleston, 1958; Harry Benson’s collage of 13 U.S. presidents; an illustrated map of Charleston by Virginia Brown Art; contributor Caroline Griswold.

22 QUEST

renowned journalist Jonathan Young, the former Editor of The Field - Britain’s oldest and most revered sporting title. Jonathan reprises his attractive and insidery profile of the UK’s foremost female “guns”, plus a comprehensive look at the intricate artistry of engraving handmade shotguns and rifles - reflecting owners’ bespoke tastes and passion for their sport.

Yes ... our English “cousins” continue to do much quite well, causing me to reflect on their beloved Queen Elizabeth II and the inspiring manner in which she lead - without an ounce of political might. Her sovereign power was compelling-most evident by her strength of purpose, an incomparable mix of duty and dignity. Are we Americans (and once rebellious Colonists!) wrong to shudder at the crime in our streets and chaos at our borders? With our peace and prosperity at increasingly greater risk, are we wrong to demand specific agendas and “to do” lists from our candidates? It’s likely too late to tone down the rhetoric, yet the Founding Fathers of our “noble self governing experiment” would implore us to speak loud and clear. And often. ◆

Chris Meigher ON THE COVER:

Deborah “Debbie” Fisher at the Nathaniel Russell House in Charleston, South Carolina. Photographed

by Oliver Meredith for Handsome Properties.

C Y L E S U E Z / H A M P D E N C L OT H I N G

ARE WE WRONG, dear readers, to strive for exceptional governance? With barely six weeks until our seminal national referendum, we’re still suffering from a near paralyzing dearth of leadership. Will it come in an eleventh hour surge from the candidates - either local or federal, or from the electorate at large?

Might we find it in our communities ... in our families ... in our houses of worship ... in ourselves? Your grateful pub suspects it will come from within. Like all vacuums, it begs to be filled, and from the bottom up. So be it. As I’ve urged on this same page before, let your individual voices be aired; we certainly haven’t lost our way, but we singularly deserve to be heard. The path to our White House should not be this easy.

To matters more at hand: in our October number, Quest migrates South to America’s “Holy City” - the legendary cobblestoned backstreets and endless beaches of Charleston, South Carolina.

Named by 17th Century English colonists in honor of King Charles II, it played a pivotal role our Revolutionary War through the Battle of Sullivan’s Island - an early (1776) American victory over British forces. Moreover, it was at Charleston’s fabled Fort Sumter where the first shots of our Civil War were fired in 1861; even before it adopted its signature southern charm, Charleston’s narrative oozed with transformative events. On pages 90-95, Quest’s Editorial Director, Elizabeth Meigher, takes us on a deep and delightful dive into the “past and present” of this culturally rich yet comfortably livable community. And just on the heels of Elizabeth’s historic panorama, Charleston resident Caroline Griswold introduces us to four young “Lowcountry Locals” who have each notched culinary and commercial paths into the palates and wallets of the local cognescenti. Yankee native or not, who wouldn’t be lured into an eatery named “Chubby Fish”?!

Elsewhere in the issue you’ll learn how to navigate Charleston’s booming real estate market through the sage counsel of our October cover girl, Debbie Fisher, the hands-on owner of Handsome Properties. Also returning to these pages is the

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DAV I D PAT R I C K C O LU M B IA

David Patrick Columbia

NEW YORK SOCIAL DIARY WELL, WHO KILLED SOCIETY?

Maybe you remember that book by Cleveland Amory which was published into bestseller-dom 60 years ago about how it had died and been replaced by the press increase of stories about celebrities.

Amory was born in

1917 into an 18th-century pre-Revolution Boston society family. The family fortune was made in Colonial business although the fourth generation Amory was mainly a writer, and also a hero to the animal world.

In fact his biggest sell-

ing book was a novel about cats. He was very fond of animals in general and eventually was moved to found a ranch in Murchison, Texas for those animals who were rescued from research laboratories, law enforcement seizures, cruelty cases and those that were

threatened with extermination by the feds, which included: Bison and cattle, horses and burros, antilopes, reptiles, and tigers.

All living on the 1,400-acre ranch and numbering the high hundreds.

Mr. Amory was truly a hero in the minds of many

O SCAR DE L A REN TA’S FA SH ION SHOW AT L AKE TAHOE

Roman Gronkowski and Lisa Goldman

Farah Makras, Komal Shah, Mary Beth Shimmon and Carolyn Chang

Barbara Brown and Felipe Tristan

24 QUEST

Philip, Eliza and Alex Bolen

Runway

DREW ALTI Z E R

Joseph and Dede Tobin with Riccardo Benavides

Michelle Harris, Maria Hemphill and Ann Chung

DAV I D PAT R I C K C O LU M B IA C OU T URE C OUN CIL OF T HE MU SEUM AT FI T ’S ANNUAL LUN C HEON IN NE W YORK

Jill and Sarah Bracken

Adrien Gardner Lesser and Lizzie Asher

Alina Cho

including this writer, and also undoubtedly by very many of those creatures rescued. However, I do remember reading Who Killed Society? when it came out because of my personal interest in the subject. I believe it was a best-seller although his book on animals was his biggest.

What is important about the word/concept of “Society” is that it has always existed in one form or another since we’ve been operating as fairly hairless, two-legged creatures. It is, in a word, about Power.

Personal power, which as a concept is always intriguing because it means to the rest of us that those creatures don’t have to worry about paying their bills. And rent.

26 QUEST

Dr. Joyce Brown and Valerie Steele

Simon Porte Jacquemus and Pete Nordstrom

Money is of course power simple matters that pass our thoughts in our civilizations. And we through all know about its benefits. while observing, includWe could do more learn- ing whether or not they’re ing about or considering its well-dressed.

Considering disadvantages. all these factors, But if we don’t it can be a rehave enough of lief for us lookit personally, why ers. And even bother; the rent more if there’s still has to be a wild story or paid. rumor about However on someone.

You this page in this know when they magazine, we have money, they all know about The cover of have the time ... for these matters. At Who Killed Society? ... whatever. Human least enough to look and see just who some of like the rest of us – proving those people are. And/ of course the wisdom that or what they’re wearing, we are all, in fact, equal. Just and/or whether they have like those animals saved by had some “work done” or Cleveland Amory.

While we’re on the subweight-gained, or “bad taste,” and many other ject, it has been a fascination

for me since I was a young boy and my father who was a native New Yorker, got the two tabloids every day – the Daily News and the Daily Mirror which always had some editorial about the rich and famous (often because of it).

When I was old enough – 10 or 11, I was sent down to the newspaper store in the center of town, where they also had candy and bubble gum (Fleer’s Double Bubble - a penny a piece). I think the News and the Mirror were a nickel or a dime each.

I never minded this errand specifically for the Double Bubble, number one; and I already had the curiosity to see what my father was reading because I

PATRI C K M C M U L L AN

Sarah Wetenhall

Princess Deena Ali Al-Juhani Abdulaziz and Lara Meiland-Shaw

DAV I D PAT R I C K C O LU M B IA knew from his frame of references that he loved New York.

He also listened to Walter Winchell on the radio on Sunday nights, and so did I (“Good evening Mister and Missus North and South America and all the ships at seas; lets go to press…” ) and then deliver some blockbuster bit of news about some famous people having or causing a problem or a miracle. Winchell had an amazing 30 million readers daily back when the population was a third of what it is today.

But getting back to Cleveland Amory and his Society. The word itself“society”-had been a

The capacity for Mrs. generational upshot of our wealth and our politics. Astor’s ballroom was 368 Mrs. Astor (the Mrs. As- “max”. But she’d hired Ward tor) of last quarter of the McAllister, a late 19th cen19th century actually creat- tury version of a public ed the concept of it with the relations man to plan and manage her number of peoballroom event ple who could (the one which fit safely into was held annuher ballroom ally at the same at her browntime). McAlstone mansion lister planned on 34th Street and after the and Madison fact, delivered Avenue where all of the dethe Empire tails – and the State Building Cleveland Amory guestlist – to all of stands today. John Jacob Astor I purchased it the seven newspapers each long before there was even time.

He also believed a house (there were two mansions with gardens and that 400 was a much smoother number than 368 lawns between them).

for making an impression on the reader. Mrs. Astor approved. And it was popularly taken so seriously that for almost a century later when I was a kid, and reading about it, I already was aware of the 400 phrase in adults’ conversations.

It’s mainly forgotten now but it then had entered the popular American language for almost a century. People in general often sarcastically would use it when talking about someone else’s obnoxious behavior or pretense.

Mrs. Astor was firstly and lastly ambitious at a time when the women’s role was to bear children and run the household. Or work and pay the rent. Wealthy women

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Abigail Ross Goodman, Sarah Arison and Molly Epstein

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often had nothing to do because someone was hired (very cheap labor in those days) to do everything in manage the household and caring of the offspring.

Her “400” ballroom gave her a general public reputation that changed her own role in life: she’d become the image of “a leader” among both men and women. This was a “first.”

As New York was developing by mid-18th century and moving uptown, her only son John Jacob Astor IV persuaded her to let him build a mansion way uptown on Fifth Avenue at 65th Street. The area at that time, still developing like suburbs of the city, he built a double mansion connected by a ballroom that could 30 QUEST

Jamee Gregory and Bill Manger

actually hold 1,000 guests, There was the oft-told story about how one day as and did at times.

By the beginning of the she was getting ready to 20th century, those ladies go out and he was annoywere getting old (and losing ing her with a child’s seekit) and the succeeding ing attention, and she put him in one generation – of her clossome of whom ets and left she originally him having s n u b b e d ignored his like Alva Vancries. It was a derbilt – had great mansion already become where even a an independent staff member power centers couldn’t hear socially, even his cries or after Mrs. Astor banging for had long openseveral hours. ly snubbed her Alva Vanderbilt She would also (not invited to the often be travelballs).

Vincent Astor was a very ing without him and her unhappy 10-year-old. His husband to England and mother evidently didn’t Europe. He grew up in his like having him around. grandmother’s house and

Marcy and Michael Warren

evidently loved his grandmother Lina (from Caroline).

By the 1920s America and especially New York was booming with an automobile that Henry Ford built with the specific plan to make a “machine” that even the farmer could afford. That was the beginning of the new century. We were now living in the modern world.

Immense new fortunes came from manufacturing and modern inventions like the airplane, the radio, not to mention telephone and the electric light. A new class of wealth came to integrate with the old society, as well as assume power and control over it.

The so-called Women’s Liberation had begun to

PATRI C K M C M U L L AN

Simone Levinson and Yolanda Garretti

DAV I D PAT R I C K C O LU M B IA take hold. By the beginning of the 20th century, it was a whole new world which today continues to race along possessed now by the technology way beyond the automobile: the cell phone. Is there still a Society? Yes; and like everybody else, a lot of them are on the phone.

Today, a major element that describes Society’s prominence (so to speak) in the 21st century is philanthropy. Aside from the participation of those contributing generously, its message is influential.

[A perfect current small but effective example was this past Summer in the

Hamptons which was also ments made over many the settings for multiple.] years through PCF. FoundI was reminded of this er Michael Milken and only a couple of weeks the Gala in the Hamptons ago when I learned that weekend hosts and The Prostate C a n c e r Foundation's (PCF) 24th A n n u a l Gala in the Hamptons took place at the Parrish Art Museum Parrish Art Museum in Water sponsors welcomed guests Mill.

The summer benefit sup- to enjoy, engage, and be ported the Annual PCF entertained while helping Pro-Am Tennis Tourna- to fund groundbreaking in cancer ment and celebrated the discoveries millions raised and achieve- research.

The gala began with a lively cocktail reception as distinguished guests and athletes entered the breathtaking Parrish Art Museum terrace. Total Sponsorships, ticket sales, and a live auction alone raised more than $3 million for the foundation’s work.

The lavish dinner party gave way to a wide ranging, one-on-one interview between Michael Milken and Elon Musk. A special musical performance from cast members of TINA: The Tina Turner Musical closed out the evening.

This celebration set the tone for the weekend leading up to the finals of the

ANIMAL RESCUE FUND OF THE HAMPTONS’ BOW WOW MEOW BALL

Bobby and Barbara Liberman

Tenealle Farragher

Chuck Scarborough and Vicky Schnepps

32 QUEST

Sylvie Chantecaille and Olivia Chantecaille

Nancy Rigby and Virginia Coleman

PATRI C K M C M U L L AN

Bruce Weber and Cornelia Guest

Alex Papachristidis, Kimberly Nichols and Shahab Karmely

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DAV I D PAT R I C K C O LU M B IA HAMPTON CLASSIC HORSE SHOW GRAND PRIX

Brittany Garcia and Laura Lehmann

Dendy Engelman

Lauren Carter and Charlie Nettlefold

Carmen Fuccillo and John Wattiker

PCF Pro-Am Tennis Tournament.

Along with the activities associated with the PCF Pro-Am Tennis Tournament, some guests were treated to by-invitation-only Milken Institute Hamptons Dialogues that covered a range of current topics of interest. The tennis tournament began on Saturday at private courts and concluded with the finals on Sunday afternoon at the Racquet Lounge at Southampton.

Notable attendees included: Michael Milken, Elon Musk, Maye Musk, Julia Koch, Mary Julia Koch, David Koch, Jr., Stephen Schwarzman, 34 QUEST

Alex Matz

Lauren Coto and Jason Catron

Christine Schwarzman, in the western part of the Neri Oxman, Bill Ack- state, and he was not popuman, Senator Michael Mc- lar with many in my homeCaul, Gina Carithers, Lin- town. The Protestants. da Yaccarino, Jeff Greene, Always suspicious of the Catholics.

Mei Sze The Greene, Kennedys I g o r were EastTu l c h i n ern (Bossky, Bonton) and nie Pfeifer there were Evans, Ginalways ruger Leeds, mors about and Jim how Joseph Coleman.

P. KenneI’d always Congressman John F. Kennedy been a democrat since I first dy operated. In the younger started to vote. Because years, on the threshold of of John F. Kennedy. I grew failure sitting on one of up in Massachusetts in the my shoulders, whatever western part of the Com- political opinions I had monwealth. The Kennedy came from members of my family were not well known family (father) or a neigh-

bor who was prosperous (we were not).

However, November was about elections. And in 1960 it was the Presidential race offering an exciting new possibility: much younger by decades than most of the previous Presidents: Senator John F. Kennedy from Boston was running. In circles in my New England community, the Catholic thing was reason NOT to vote for him.

Many of the Protestants, the native settlers who “built” this country were always openly anti-Catholic in their own minds.

The fear was common that as an RC Kennedy would turn the country

B FA

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DAV I D PAT R I C K C O LU M B IA over to the Pope in Rome.

It’s so absurd, but that was exactly where a lot of people’s heads were at mid20th century America ... everywhere; the American way.

First of November 1960.

It was Presidential election year. I was a sophomore at Colby College in Waterville, Maine, living in the Deke House. That day, someone on campus told me that Senator John F. Kennedy was making a last round of public appearances just a few days before the Election. And was appearing that night at 10 o’clock at Bates College, about an hour drive south to Lewis-

speaking was set up on the ton, Maine.

I persuaded my room- edge of the campus, away mate who had a car to from the main buildings. make the drive to actually We got there by 9:30 and there were scores of college see him in person.

I don’t recall ever having kids already milling about in the naturally a serious conversadarker area away tion with anybody from the main about anything pobuildings. litical at that time By 10:30/quarter in my life. I wanted to 11, a crowd of a to see the man who couple hundred had became JFK simply gathered. Then by because of the role midnight, the Senhe was running for.

If he were to win, JFK campaign poster ator had not arrived we would have seen him although we were informed firsthand before the elec- that he was on his way. (I betion (our places in history). lieve he covered several states It was a very cold, dark making these small gathernight in November in Cen- ings in three or four days.)

By 12:30/quarter to one, he artral Maine. The spot for his

rived! A retinue of members of his campaign, surrounded him including security people, forcefully ushering him through the pressing, clamorous crowd, up to the speaking platform.

I can still see the sharp grimace of discomfort on his face and eyes as he was physically forced by his assistants through the pressing crowd to the podium.

I was too young to have imagined how exhausting the whole thing was for him.

However. Once on the podium, with the night lights on him, surrounded by the dark “down Maine” night, standing authoritatively about two

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feet above the crowd, he started to speak. It was a first time I had ever heard him (or was interested in hearing him).

He talked about how he saw the importance of the job he was running for. He spoke at a very late and cold hour in an intelligent manner that drew us college kids in.

He was also 43 and he put it in terms that were entirely relatable in a sensible, intelligent way.

His presence was brief.

When he’d finished, his Boston accent manner of speaking was so inspiring that we all left that night impressed – and some of us dreaming/thinking about running for office someday and do38 QUEST

Katherine Smith

Stephen Covello and Tao He-Covello

ing something great for this 21st century on a late Summer weekend, the East great country of ours.

I’d never given it a thought Hampton Library presented before that moment that night its 20th annual Authors Night when this older to us, but fundraiser under a grand tent then young man (in his ear- on the Herrick Park field in ly 40s) spoke to us about the East Hampton Village.

Now one of the most popimportance of looking after the country and its people/us ular and celebrity-studded people. My roommate and I events of the Hamptons’ summer calendar, drove back to Authors Night Waterville at 2 featured 100 a.m., sold and authors across stimulated by all genres. the up-close More than experience in 2,000 people the presence came out to of an actual East Hampton Library enjoy delicious candidate for the Presidency. And he had hors d’oe-uvres and wine, charisma. There was a natural meet and mingle with the authors, buy their books sense of hope for us all.

Meanwhile, back in the and have them personally

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Anna Casar, Jill Martin, Lynn Scotti and Maria Baum 52 QUEST

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DAV I D PAT R I C K C O LU M B IA AL ZHEIMER ’S A S SOCI AT ION’S C OC K TAIL RECEP T ION IN NE W YORK

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CITYMEALS ON WHEELS’ SUMMER BASH IN BRIDGEHAMPTON

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68 QUEST

WITH POLITICS in the air and the upcoming election just over a month away, I thought it would be the perfect time to talk about the 13 presidents I’ve had the privilege of photographing.

The first president I photographed was President John Kennedy, shown here standing in the rain at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in Paris.

In 1965, I was traveling with Prince Philip during American tour. We stopped in California, to pay a visit to former President Dwight Eisenhower, shown here saluting the prince.

After President Kennedy’s assassination in 1963, Vice President Lyndon Johnson was thrust into the spotlight as the Vietnam War unfortunately gained momentum. Shown here in the White House Oval Office in 1965 with British Prime Minister Harold Wilson.

When this photograph was taken, President Richard Nixon was campaigning for reelection in 1974 even as the Watergate Investigation was escalating.

Vice President Gerald Ford had just

become president when I photographed him on Air Force Two in 1974.

President Jimmy Carter, here in 1979, was a quiet but determined man, who worked tirelessly for those less fortunate.

In 1985 at his ranch near Santa Barbara, President Ronald Reagan prepares for his daily ride on his favorite horse.

On a cold day in December 1986, Vice President George H.W. Bush was leaving the White House and offered me a ride to the Capital.

President Bill Clinton is a Rhodes Scholar at Oxford with a law degree from Yale, but to me his most memorable characteristic is the ability to make you feel like you are the only person in the room.

President George W. Bush was preparing to move into the White House when this photo was taken at the Governor’s Mansion in Austin in 2000.

Photographing the newly elected President Barack Obama in 2009, I was surprised and disappointed that I never saw First Lady Michelle and their two lovely daughters or his Vice President Biden that day.

I first photographed President Donald Trump in 1987 and have photographed him throughout his career, including in 2016 sitting at his desk at Trump Tower.

President Joe Biden shown here at the 2018 birthday celebration of Ethel Kennedy, a person whom I admire tremendously. I presume my request to the White House for another photograph must be waiting in a stack on someone’s desk.

Very proud that HARRY BENSON: WASHINGTON D.C. will open on October 23rd at The Gallery at Capital One, located next to the Monumental Sports Arena in Washington D.C. Sponsored by Ted and Lynn Leonsis with Jeff Skoll, the exhibition will showcase 150 of my political photographs, including the 13 Presidents shown here. u Thirteen U.S. Presidents photographed

by Harry Benson.

OCTOBER 2024 69

NTA AM K IE

THE MODERN MEPHISTOPHELES

From left: Ferdinand Victor Eugène Delacroix,

MAGIC, THE DEVIL, and of course our Lord Jesus were big some 400 years ago.

The woods were believed to be full of spirits, many of them evil; the churches were packed with the faithful; and the Devil was perceived to be everywhere, busy trying to lure the good into sin and damnation. Christ and his angels were our sole protectors against Satan and his 00 QUEST 7

infernal kingdom.

The Devil did not play fair, needless to say. He did not always appear with horns and fire-spitting breath, but transformed himself into anything and anybody in order to lure his pray down under. Tales of unmitigated horrors that befell the simpleminded were a dime a dozen, told and retold around fires, in schoolrooms, even

from pulpits. I suppose that is how the Faust legend began. I always thought it was Christopher Marlowe, a very talented drunk homosexual barroom brawler, who invented Doctor Faustus at the end of the 16th century. Actually, the Faustian myth began in earlier times, in Germany, where tales of necromancy and sorcery were popular heretical choices. In Marlowe’s play,

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

1828; portrait of Christopher Marlowe, 1585.

TA K I Faustus has a doctorate from a university but is bored with the academic standards of the time, so he’s approached by the Devil and is offered 24 years of whatever he desires. The good doc goes bananas, becomes invisible, gets to taste the seven deadly sins, plays tricks on the Pope, and pays a visit to Helen of Troy. Then the inevitable happens: Twenty-four years are up and he has mostly wasted his time. The Devil comes to collect and carts Faustus off to hell forever.

I don’t know when the Devil’s emissary Mephistopheles came around, but he makes an appearance in Goethe’s verse play Faust in the late 18th century. The great German copped out in his second

throughout the years he and I were friends, he acknowledged that Israel was committing a great crime in suppressing the Palestinians. The great crime was against itself, the Jewish people, and of course the Palestinians. Norman died in 2007, and things have gotten much worse since then where Israel and Palestine are concerned. In my discussion with Michael Mailer, who is half Jewish and a liberal in his politics, I mentioned that the United States must have signed a Faustian pact, otherwise the oneway traffic of bombs, aircraft, arms, and billions simply does not make sense. “Norman would probably be intrigued more by who the modern Mephistopheles is than anything else,” said Michael.

While Israel grew in territory, the Palestinian population grew and grew under occupation. The whole area is now about to explode.

Hard-line factions are now replacing Fatah, the main Palestinian group that recognizes Israel. The Faustian bargain that I’m referring to is that of Uncle Sam and Israel. Why doesn’t Uncle Sam order Israel to withdraw from the occupied territories and agree to a two-state solution?

America would guarantee Israel’s borders and safety, and continue to fund and arm the Israelis, while the West Bank illegal settlements would revert to their rightful owners. Peace and happiness for everyone would follow.

From left: The Devil and Dr. Faustus Meet, circa 1825; Norman and Michael Mailer,

P HE LOLTCOO MC ER EI MD AG W I T EGS O; GE ES T THYE IRMEAG E S

1985; Uncle Sam.

part of Faust, when he has him ascend to heaven rather than down under. I suppose it was Christian forgiveness and all that.

The reason I’m going on about Faust and Faustian bargains is a recent discussion I had with my very close friend Michael Mailer about Gaza. Michael is a film producer and director and the son of Norman Mailer. I was telling Michael about a New Year’s Eve party I once gave where I introduced his father to a close friend of my wife, an Israeli beauty. “Why don’t you ever come to Israel, Mr. Mailer?” she wailed. “Because they don’t all look like you, sweetheart,” answered Norman and walked away.

Norman Mailer was a radical and Jewish, and from the discussions I had with him

Has Uncle Sam signed a Faustian bargain, and will he be dragged to hell for it one day? Millions in Iran, Lebanon, Syria, Iraq, and Afghanistan believe it to be so, despite the fact most of them have never heard of the good doctor. If America is hated today, it is for her unstinted support of Israel, no ifs or buts about it. The good uncle was the tiny newborn nation’s greatest supporter. The Jewish people had suffered like no other, and they deserved a home of their own. The trouble is there were other people already living there, and some of them had to be moved.

Those who had to move are still in refugee camps in Jordan and Lebanon. Some have been there since 1948. Israel annexed the West Bank and the Golan Heights in 1967.

Well, perhaps in the movies, but in real life Mephistopheles has been busy down there, and he has many faces. The religious nuts who are known as the settlers are the problem. Yes, they are part of the only true democracy in the Middle East, where the rights of women and of minorities are respected, but they hold Israel at gunpoint. They don’t serve in the army, don’t pay taxes, and go around the West Bank land-grabbing and shooting Palestinians at will. Actually, the true Faustian bargain turns out to be that of Israeli governments and the religious settlers. Netanyahu is the Mephistopheles. This will have a Marlowe ending, not a Goethe one. u

For more Taki, visit takimag.com.

O C T OM BA EY R 2 0 2 43 7 01 0

SPARKLE WITH EVERY STEP: THE MERRICHASE STORY FOUNDED BY Jennifer Powers in 2015, Merrichase is a jewelry line that embodies effortless style and the transformative power of statement pieces. Drawing from her early exposure to design, fashion, and luxury, Powers cultivated a global perspective that defines Merrichase today. “Merrichase is about more than beautiful things...it’s about how those beautiful things make you feel,” she explains. This philosophy is woven into every piece, where exquisite craftsmanship meets bold design.

With a degree in Art History, Powers began her career in the buying office at Bergdorf Goodman, immersing herself in the world of high fashion and luxury. She forged connections with designers across Europe and South America, nurturing an appreciation for timeless elegance and what she describes as “effortless glamour.” Her transition into interior design further honed her eye for the principles that also govern jewelry design.

“Jewelry design, much like interior design, is a reflection of scale, balance, and proportion,” Powers notes. “But for me, it’s about ‘style, statement, and sparkle.’ These elements are the foundation of every Merrichase piece.”

This instinctive understanding of aesthetics led Powers to identify a gap in the market for jewelry that resonated with her personal taste. She envisioned pieces that would elevate the everyday, just as she had done with interiors throughout her design career. “I launched the business because I couldn’t find jewelry that spoke to me—a unique perspective was missing,” she recalls.

Thus, Merrichase was born, a brand dedicated to turning the ordinary into extraordinary. Powers remembers traveling the world, discovering rare and striking jewelry that could transform any outfit. “When I traveled, I would scour jewelry vitrines and uncover unusual designs that could turn a little black dress into something spectacular,” she shares. “I knew these pieces had a special je ne sais quoi, and I knew they would turn heads.”

At the core of Merrichase is a deep appreciation for the modern woman. The Merrichase client is one who leads a dynamic, multifaceted life. “She’s juggling a career and family while constantly seeking out experiences that enrich her life,” Powers says.

Whether traveling, socializing, or engaging with her community, Merrichase women are attracted to pieces that reflect their individuality and adventurous spirit. “They have a refined eye for quality and a willingness to embrace the unexpected, which is why they’re drawn to the serendipitous nature of Merrichase.”

Powers’ passion for discovery, along with her clients’ varied lifestyles, fuels her creativity. “What inspires me? It’s simple... sparkle,” Powers says with a smile. But for her, “sparkle” transcends the gleam of gemstones—it embodies the excitement and curiosity that come from new experiences. “Sparkle is that joyful moment when something fresh captures your attention. It’s 72 QUEST

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B Y B R O O K E K E L LY M U R R AY

FA S H I O N

Clockwise from top left: Crossover Ring in Gold Pave, $225 (right hand, above), Étoile Ring, $275 (right hand, below), Cigar Band Pave Ring in Gold, $325 (left hand, left), and Pom Pom Ring, $275 (left hand, right); Gypsy Hoops in White Diamond, $350; Pixel Necklaces in Turquoise and Sapphire, $700 each; stacked Merrichase bracelets paired with the Cigar Band Pave Ring in Gold, $325; Raffles

C O U R TE S Y OF M E RRI C H A S E

Ring in Turquoise, $300. Opposite page: Jennifer Powers.

about stepping outside your comfort zone and encountering the unexpected,” she explains. This sense of wonder is reflected in every Merrichase piece, designed to make women feel beautiful and empowered each day.

Although her last in-person pop-up was in 2019, Powers has fully embraced the digital age, pouring her energy into growing the Merrichase website. “For now, I’m inviting clients to ‘pop-in’ online and embark on their own Merrichase,” she shares. She’s always keeping an eye out for new opportunities, ensuring the Merrichase journey remains as exciting as the pieces she designs.

As Merrichase continues to evolve, Powers’ vision for the brand remains as ambitious as ever. She plans to extend its reach, connecting with new audiences while staying true to the brand’s core values. “My goal is for Merrichase to become synonymous with exceptional jewelry and accessories,” she says. “I want the brand to evoke excitement and capture the essence of sophistication.”

Powers’ journey has been one of discovery and passion, culminating in Merrichase—a brand that invites women everywhere to embrace every adventure with style, confidence, and, naturally, a little sparkle.

As Powers puts it, “Jewelry has the power to make people feel beautiful and special every day, and that’s a bit of magic everyone deserves.” With Merrichase, that magic is always within reach— because life’s too short not to shine. ◆ For more information, visit merrichase.com or @merrichasenyc on Instagram.

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LADY PAMELA: A LIFE OF ELEGANCE

BOOKS

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LADY PAMELA HICKS, now 95 years old, daughter of the formidable 1st Earl Mountbatten of Burma, has lived a life deeply intertwined with British history. A cousin to Prince Philip and a trusted confidante to Queen Elizabeth II, she stood at the Queen’s side as both bridesmaid and lady-inwaiting. After marrying the iconic interior designer David Hicks, she and her husband became known for their elegant homes, which set new standards for interior design.

Clockwise from top left: Members of the Hicks family in Ireland sporting feathered hats, tartan jackets, and kilts designed by David Hicks; each year, Lady Pamela would be photographed in her grandfather’s naval jacket to judge how much she had grown; the cover of Rizzoli’s Lady Pamela. Opposite page: Lady Pamela with India in her very green garden, 2023.

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Her remarkable life story is now beautifully captured in a new book by her daughter, India Hicks, recently released

by Rizzoli. Drawing on family archives, it unveils intimate letters from the Queen, rare photos, and never-before-told stories of Lady Pamela’s involvement in historical events, from Indian independence to the tragic assassination of her father. The book offers a rich, personal view of a woman—still full of grace—who has not only witnessed history but has lived it with poise, making her own indelible mark along the way. u From above: Lady Pamela (center left) with her niece Joanna, her father, and her sister while on a ride on an empty beach; the tiny Book of Common Prayer-given by Queen Victoria to her granddaughyears later passed it on to Lady Pamela-mixed among diaries, postcards, photos from the 1940s, and telegrams. Opposite page: A surprise snow storm made the wedding day of Lady Pamela and David Hicks unforgettable.

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ter Victoria, Lady Pamela’s grandmother, who 75

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Fresh Finds B Y B R O O K E K E L LY M U R R AY & ELIZABETH MEIGHER

STEP INTO FALL with our October fashion picks, where cozy meets chic. This curated collection of must-have clothing and accessories brings together autumnal tones, luxurious textures, and timeless silhouettes. From statement coats to versatile boots and bold accessories, these pieces will keep you effortlessly stylish as the temperatures drop.

Merrichase’s Double Helix Clip Earrings in gold and Ralph Lauren Collection’s Christie Fringe-Trim Lamb-Suede Jacket, Taupe Crystal Net Top, Taupe Flannel Pant, 45mm Western Engraved Belt, and Brass Multi-Gem Earring. Visit ralphlauren.com.

Wempe Fine Jewelry Bracelet Memories in 18k yellow gold with 32 brilliant-cut diamonds. $50,975 at wempe.com.

Combining sophistication with utility, Oscar de la Renta’s The Ivy Bag features a spacious compartment with top handles and a removable shoulder strap for versatile styling. $3,490 at oscardelarenta.com.

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platinum. $375 at merrichase.com.

Barton & Gray Mariners Club offers an assortment of membership options. Members enjoy a lifetime of yachting with the ability to adjust their membership and take advantage of the ever-expanding harbors and new yachts being added to the club. The Lowcountry routes can be accessed via Safe Harbor Charleston City or Sunset Cay Marina in Kiawah. For more information, visit bartonandgray.com.

Pratesi’s Queen Flat Sheet is part of its Tre Righe Collection, the world’s most iconic luxury linen collection, which was originally commissioned for Coco Chanel’s Paris home in 1927. Unmistakable for its crisp three lines embroidered on Angel Luxe, the divinely soft signature Egyptian cotton

Brunello Cucinelli’s Nappa-Effect Shearling Double-Breasted Coat in Chocolate. $13,500 at

percale, this timeless, best-selling collection epitomizes the Pratesi ideals of romance and la dolce vita. $1,265 at pratesi.com.

shop.brunellocucinelli.com.

For more than 30 years, Ralph Lauren has been committed to raising awareness in Rolex presents a new version of the Oyster Perpetual SkyDweller in 18 ct Everose gold and featuring a slate dial. Price upon request at rolex.com.

the fight against cancer. For Breast Cancer Awareness, the brand is releasing its latest Pink Pony Collection. Refreshed in a youthful and energetic new black and pink palette, the 2024 collection features a sporty selection of men’s, women’s, children’s, and accessories including a limited-edition hard goods capsule with fitness equipment brand Bala. Visit RalphLauren.com/PinkPony.

The MOST powerful Bentley sedan ever! The new 771hp V-8 Ultra Performance Hybrid engine powers the ’25 Flying Spur, coupled with new front styling and new wheel options. Order yours today at BramanBentleyPalmBeach.com.

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Fresh Finds Tucked away on quiet South Summer Street in Edgartown village, The Charlotte Inn in Martha’s Vineyard is exquisitely appointed with fine art, English antiques, luxurious linens,

With LAFCO’s new Pumpkin Seed & Sandalwood

and fresh flowers—a romantic

candle, classic pumpkin is reimagined with

reflection of a bygone era. Visit

earthy woods and herbaceous fennel for a

thecharotteinn.com.

sophisticated gourmand that recalls a cozy gathering. $75 at lafco.com.

Nestled in Via Mizner off of Worth Avenue, Renato’s—a Palm Beach classic—impresses in every way, making it the perfect restaurant for any special occasion. Visit renatospalmbeach.com.

J.McLaughlin’s Denver Blouse in Burgundy/Olive Modern Palomino ($248), Sleeveless Reversible Vest in Black/Deep Brown ($238), Jules Leggings in Dark Brown Greenleaf & Crosby’s Silver Gold Diamond Geometric Lotus Earrings. $6,600 at greenleafcrosby.com.

($278), Agyness Slingback Heels in Dark Brown ($278), and Delancey Handbag in Dark Brown ($498). For more information, visit jmclaughlin.com.

Pink Mother of Pearl Glass Sculpture by Kosta Boda. $625 at thestore.madmuseum.org.

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Indulge in luxury and sophistication with the Asprey’s Double Face Lambswool Throw, in a serene

Gil Walsh Interiors loves layering interesting fabrics, including the fabric by Vervain seen on these bed pillows. Visit gwifl.com.

sea blue hue. $855 at asprey.com.

Loeffler Randall’s Nicola Smocked Blouse ($195) and Theodora Midi Skirt ($255). Visit loefflerrandall.com.

Veronica Beard’s Botanical illustrations by Lia Burke Libaire.

Cody Suede Western

Visit liaburkelibaire.com or contact Studio

Bootie. $595 at

Director Cara Alford at cara@liaburke.com.

veronicabeard.com.

From October 10th through 13th, enjoy cooking demonstrations by renowned celebrity chefs Hubert Keller, Shawn Mcclain, and Scott Conant as well as wine and spirit tastings, special dinner under the stars, and much more at Casa de Campo’s 2nd Annual Food and Wine Festival. Prepare to be wowed by culinary “maestros” as celebrity chefs take the stage. Three-night packages start at $3,599. For more information, visit casadecampo.com.do.

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SINCE FOUNDING her namesake line in 1963, British jewelry designer Elizabeth Gage has mesmerized the world with her distinctive style, blending precious metals, gemstones, and enamel into bold, unforgettable creations. Her work transcends opulence, focusing on the exquisite splendor and unique character of each stone. “I choose stones not for their value, but for their beauty,” Elizabeth explains, drawing from nature, history, and mythology to craft her iconic designs. Each piece carries its own narrative, making her jewelry as much about storytelling as it is about artistry.

Elizabeth’s Templar Ring, inspired by her travels to Athens and the treasures of the Benaki Museum, is a prime example of her vision. “I used beautiful enamels,” she recalls. “They invoked pageantry and reminded me of the knights and the first bankers of France.” Then there’s the Agincourt Ring, her very first creation as a student. What began as a simple project transformed into a piece that, to her, resembled a medieval tapestry—rich with history and brimming with pride.

In her more than six-decade career, Elizabeth has earned 82 QUEST

numerous accolades, including the Queen’s Award for Export and British Jewelry Designer of the Year, establishing a loyal global following along the way.

For Elizabeth, jewelry is far more than mere adornment. “Jewelry creates a memory,” she says, reflecting on the deep emotional connection her clients have with their pieces. Each design tells a story, whether it’s reimagining a cherished heirloom or bringing a client’s dream to life. “It’s about remembering how you bought the piece, how you felt in that moment. A client might come in with her granny’s diamond, something she loves, and she wants to make it modern. It’s those moments, the history and emotion behind each piece, that make designing so special.”

Elizabeth’s ability to weave the past into the present continues to resonate with collectors and jewelry lovers alike. “Wearing jewelry makes me feel excited, glamorous, and empowered,” she says, a sentiment reflected in every piece she creates.

Her boutique at 5 West Halkin Street, London, and elizabethgage.com, offer an invitation to step into her world. u

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ELIZABETH GAGE: ELEGANCE IN EVERY ERA

JEWELRY

Counterclockwise from above: Blue Tourmaline Molten Gold Ring ($17,700), Paraiba Tourmaline Ottoman Ring ($53,750), Amethyst and Yellow Enamel Tapered Templar Ring ($10,900), and Green Tourmaline Ring ($13,500); Peridot Ring ($15,650), Peridot and Diamond Parrot Earrings ($25,850), and Peridot and Green Enamel Tapered Templar Ring ($12,250); Kiss Earrings with Rubellites, Pearls and Amethysts ($18,700) and Amethyst and Grey Pearl Kiss Pin ($29,950); Blue Topaz, Diamond and Blue Enamel Charlemagne Ring ($15,650), Green Tourmaline Ring ($13,500), Pink Tourmaline and Diamond Ring ($17,000), Multi-Coloured Cabochon Bracelet ($39,450), and Rubellite Ring ($12,950). Opposite page: Elizabeth Gage.

CHARLESTON’S CHARM THROUGH THE EYES OF A LOCAL

Founded in 2008 by lifelong Charleston native Deborah “Debbie” Fisher, Handsome Properties has become a trusted leader in the city’s distinctive real estate market. Now at the helm as Broker-in-Charge, Fisher brings her deep local expertise to the forefront, sharing insights on one of her favorite landmarks and highlighting a standout listing that perfectly embodies the firm’s signature approach to Charleston living.

COMMUNITY

Clockwise from left: A rear view of the Nathaniel Russell House; the house’s interior; the three-story, free-flying cantilever staircase.

Opposite page: Debbie Fisher in front of the

C O U R TE S Y OF H AN DS O M E P ROP E R TI E S ; N ATH AN I E L RU S S E L L H O U S E

Nathaniel Russell House.

THE NATHANIEL RUSSELL HOUSE, completed in 1808, has always been my favorite residence on the Charleston peninsula. Its pure Neoclassical architecture has a breathtaking floating staircase, an engaging music room, and the most beautiful dining room in Charleston. This iconic piece of history South of Broad has captivated me for over 25 years. Through meticulous research and restoration over the past 29 years, this important historic estate has been restored to its original glory.

The Historic Charleston Foundation continues to source original furnishings, from art and silver to Charleston made furniture, to recreate the elite Charleston lifestyle of the early 19th century. Whether I am sitting in the garden among the large oaks and magnolia trees or touring my favorite room in the house, the dining room, I feel as though I am transported

back in time to a beautiful city in the early American South.

The property is owned and protected by Historic Charleston Foundation and can be viewed by the public all year.

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Handsome Properties has established itself as a cornerstone in South Carolina’s real estate landscape while remaining deeply engaged with the community. Our agents are passionate about Charleston, and as a company, we actively contribute by sponsoring events like our annual Oyster Roast and partnering with charitable organizations such as preservation foundations, local food banks, and Habitat for Humanity. Beyond helping clients find their perfect home, our agents guide out-of-town buyers through their transition, offering valuable insights on local schools, amenities, and the latest dining spots, ensuring they feel at home in their new community.

From above: Handsome Properties’ Oyster Roast in March; Debbie Fisher on horseback; the Handsome Proper-

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ties office at 285 Meeting Street.

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Step into a world where historic charm meets modern luxury. This beautifully renovated 1938 home in the coveted South of Broad neighborhood invites you to experience a perfect blend of timeless elegance and contemporary comfort, all within a stunning backdrop of Charleston’s refined lifestyle. ◆

149 S Battery Street in Charleston, listed by Handsome Properties for $3,750,000.

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CALENDAR

OCTOBER

On November 4th, New York Public Library will host its annual Library Lions gala. For more information, visit nypl.org.

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Since 1997, Boone Hall Plantation & Gardens’ Pumpkin Patch has grown to be one of the largest fall festivals in South Carolina. 2024 is the 28th year for this event which has become an autumn tradition that brings people of all ages together for a day of good old-fashioned fun on the farm. Tickets available through October 27th. Admission includes a Halloween Tractor Tour, petting zoo, pig races, rubber duck races, pumpkins for sale, and more. For more information, visit boonehallplantation.com.

Central Park Conservancy’s Women’s Committee, along with

BOONE HALL HALLOWEEN

FALL LUNCHEON

event co-chairs Shelley Carr, Arlene Cruz, Cathy Lorenz, Leticia Presutti, and President Tracey Huff, invites you to join them in

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FOOD FESTIVAL

Through October 12th, enjoy cooking demonstrations by renowned celebrity chefs Hubert Keller, Shawn Mcclain, Scott Conant, and Chef Tita, wine and spirit tastings, special dinners under the stars, and much more at Casa de Campo Resort & Villas’ 2nd Annual Food and Wine Festival in La Romana, the Dominican Republic.

Prepare to be wowed by culinary “maestros” as chefs take the stage for tantalizing tastings and captivating demonstrations.

For more information, visit casadecampo.com.do.

JACK O’LANTERN BLAZE

Through November, meander through an 18th-century landscape at Van Cortlandt Manor in Crotonon-Hudson, New York to discover the Great Jack O’Lantern Blaze, a breathtaking display of more than 7,000 illuminated jack o’ lanterns—all designed and hand-carved on site by a team of artisans. For more information, visit pumpkinblaze.org.

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Central Park to support the beloved greenspace. Intimate luncheons will take place in four iconic mid-Park locations, followed by a reception for all attendees, taking place at one of these locations. For more information, visit centralparknyc.org.

On October 9th, Central Park Conservancy’s Women’s Committee will host its annual Fall Luncheon. For more information, visit centralparknyc.org.

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FRIENDLY SONS LUNCHEON

The Women’s Committee of The

CALENDAR

ABT FALL GALA

ABT’s 2024 Fall Gala will feature a one-time-only program performed by ABT Principal Dancers. The evening will also showcase talented young dancers from the ABT Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis School and ABT Studio Company. For more information, visit abt.org.

NOVEMBER 4 LIBRARY LIONS

Through October 27th, Boone Hall Plantation & Gardens in South Carolina will host its annual Pumpkin Patch.

To purchase tickets, visit boonehallplantation.com.

Society of the Friendly Sons of St. Patrick in The City of New York will host its annual luncheon in support of the organization’s Scholarship Program at The Colony Club at 12 p.m. For more information, visit friendlysonsnyc.com.

HDRF COCKTAILS

The Hope for Depression Research Foundation will celebrate its NYC Junior Committee at Doubles.

For more information, visit hopefordepression.org.

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ICONIC PHOTOGRAPHS

A captivating new exhibit will open at The Gallery at Capital One in downtown Washington, D.C. HARRY BENSON: WASHINGTON D.C. ICONIC PHOTOGRAPHS FOR THE NATION’S CAPITAL-presented by Monumental Sports & Entertainment, Ted and

Lynn Leonsis, and Jeff Skoll, and produced by Ted Leonsis and Jeff Skoll-will showcase over 150 photographs by legendary photojournalist Harry Benson, renowned for his chronicling of culture, politics, music, movies, television, and sports through the 20th and 21st centuries.

New York Public Library (NYPL) will host its annual Library Lions gala. Celebrating arts, letters, and scholarship, Library Lions is NYPL’s largest annual event and one of the most anticipated evenings on New York City’s cultural calendar. During the event, NYPL will induct its 2024 class of distinguished Lions - Spike Lee, Jon Meacham, Suzan-Lori Parks, and Amy Tan. Stay tuned for the full roster of Lions for the 2024 Library Lions Gala.

For more information, visit nypl.org.

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MSK’S FALL PARTY

The Society of Memorial Sloan Kettering will hold its annual Fall Party at The Plaza Hotel in New York. to support the Pediatric Transplant and Cellular Therapy Service. For more information, visit mskcc.org.

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CASITA MARIA FIESTA

In honor of Casita Maria’s 90th anniversary, the organization will host its annual Fiesta Gala at The Plaza Hotel in New York. The event will honor an exciting list of honorees. Your support and celebration of Casita Maria’s work is integral to the children, youth, and families it serves in the South Bronx and East Harlem. For more information or reservations, email fiesta@casitamaria.org or contact executive director at furrutia@ casitamaria.org.

GOLDEN HEART AWARDS

God’s Love We Deliver will hold its 18th Annual Golden Heart Awards at The Cathedral Church of Saint John the Divine in New York. For more information, email Candy Yun at cyun@glwd.org or visit glwd.org.

On October 21st, God’s Love We Deliver will hold its 18th Annual Golden Heart Awards at The Cathedral Church of Saint John the Divine in New York. For more information, email Candy Yun at cyun@glwd.org.

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CHARLESTON, PAST AND PRESENT

CHARLESTON. A city where the past lingers in every crumbling brick and moss-draped oak. Founded in 1670 by English colonists, this enchanting place has witnessed centuries of triumph and tragedy. It’s a city steeped in history, with roots that stretch back to the 17th century, and where every corner seems to whisper stories from the past.

Charleston was originally called Charles Towne, named in honor of King Charles II of England. It was one of the first English colonies in the Carolinas and its past is still very much part of its present, especially in neighborhoods like the French Quarter and South of Broad, where cobblestones and antebellum houses have been lovingly preserved. The city’s historic district is one of the largest in the country, and many of its buildings date back to the 18th and 19th centuries. These are not just relics—they are living, breathing parts of the city. The grand old homes, the wrought-iron gates, the sprawling plantations on the outskirts of town—they all tell the story of a city that’s seen both immense wealth and profound hardship.

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Charleston became a hotbed of activity during the Civil War. It was here that the first shots were fired at Fort Sumter in 1861, marking the official start of the conflict. The Civil War left its mark on Charleston, much like it did on the rest of the South.

The city endured a devastating siege and bombardment that lasted over a year, and its entirety was almost completely reduced to rubble. But despite severe devastation, Charleston’s spirit remained unbroken, and the city began to rebuild almost immediately after the war ended.

Charleston was a major player in the Revolutionary War, with the Battle of Sullivan’s Island in 1776 one of the first decisive American victories over the British. This victory was crucial for the morale of the colonies. Charleston’s residents, fiercely independent and proud, played a critical role in the struggle for independence.

Strolling through the historic district, you might imagine the lives of those who once inhabited the grand mansions among the antebellum architecture.

Yet, Charleston’s resilience is palpable. The city’s cultural heritage

AD OB E S TO C K

BY ELIZABETH MEIGHER

@ H ARI M ARI ; J ON B I L OU S / I S TO C K ; S H E P G EAR . C O M

AD OB E S TO C K ; V I RG I N I AB ROWN AR T ; I N S TAG R A M @ RE L ATI ON S H E P

is a rich tapestry of African, European, and Caribbean influences. From the haunting melodies of Gullah spirituals to the spicy aromas of Lowcountry cuisine, Charleston’s essence is a sensory delight. Today, Charleston’s mystique endures, a testament to the power of history, culture and the human spirit. As William Faulkner once wrote, ‘The past is never dead. It’s not even past.’ In Charleston, the past is alive and well, waiting to be rediscovered.”

The city’s growth in the last ten years has brought undeniable benefits—a thriving economy and a cultural scene that is more vibrant than ever. The influx of new residents and businesses has injected fresh energy into its historic district. Tourism has surged, with over 7 million visitors in 2020 alone. This influx has brought economic benefits but also raised concerns about overcrowding and strain on local infrastructure. Charleston has implemented measures like improved public transportation and bike-friendly lanes to mitigate these issues. Charleston still faces challenges like affordable housing, gentrification and balancing progress with preservation,

but all-in-all recent changes have only transformed Charleston into an even more vibrant and dynamic city, that still greatly values its rich history and unique character.

Charleston local William Shepard Rose, affectionately known as “Shep”, is a loyal friend and loving family member, whose adorable grin has helped him find the best people, food and fun wherever he goes. Most notably, he has been a primary star on Bravo’s “Southern Charm” since the hit show aired in 2014. Shep shares that the reason he likes Charleston, “Has to do with aesthetics. It’s Clockwise from top: Historic downtown Charleston; an illustrated map of Charleston by Virginia Brown Art; Shep Rose on National Flip Flop Day, May 29, 2024, in partnership with Hari Mari Flip Flops in an effort to donate flip flops to children in need of footwear; Folly Beach Pier; The Palace Hotel at 525 Meeting Street, Charleston, SC. OCTOBER 2024 91

From above: A private beach retreat on Sullivan’s Island; a view from The Battery at Golden Hour; Rebecca Regan cruisig the Ashley River aboard a Barton & Gray Hinckley yacht.

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just beautiful. You drive around and go over a bridge or causeway and you’re happy to be alive—similar to Sydney, Australia or San Francisco.” As far as his favorite spots, Shep is admittedly partial to The Palace Hotel at 525 Meeting Street (he helped open it in 2022 after moving to Charleston). The unassuming neighborhood bar features cocktails, brews and casual eats in a funky, upbeat atmosphere. Rose also enjoys Malagón, “A cool Spanish tapas place on Spring Street” for a “unique dining experience.” One of his favorite downtown places is, “Chubby Fish. No reservations, just put your name down and go grab a beer nearby.” He also recommends Melfi’s, “A neat little Italian spot”, and Stella’s, “A good Greek restaurant downtown” where “portions are generous so be prepared.” Tavern and Table is his, “Favorite place on Shem Street,” with its, “Great menu” and “nice set up.” Another favorite is, “Red’s on Shem—next to Tavern—I love it… It’s beer and crab legs—not fancy.” For the best burger in town he recommends Little Jack’s Tavern, “For an NYC saloon-type vibe.” For the best steak, Shep heads to Hall’s Chophouse Charleston. “I think it’s the best steak in town. I took my parents there a couple of years ago and my Dad told the owners (the friendly Hall’s brothers), ‘That’s the best steak I’ve had in six years (which begged the question, ‘What happened six years ago, Dad?’)”. For the best Gnocchi Bolognese (although tough to get a reservation), Shep heads to Fig at 232 Meeting Street. And for BBQ and a lot of fun, Shep likes Home

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Team BBQ on Sullivan’s Island. Started by, “A fellow Georgia grad,” Rose calls it, “A Charleston institution… A great place to congregate and watch a game or listen to live music.” Rose’s favorite beach destination is Coda Del Pesce, “The food is outstanding and so are the people who own and run it.” He also likes Binky’s—same ownership as Coda Del Pesce, “A little more casual and lots of fun.”

Windjammer has, “The best ocean views in Charleston. Live music and a lot of history.” Surf Bar on Folly Beach is, “A little dive” that Rose, “Really likes… The food is good too.” Wiki Wiki on Folly is, “A fun spot,” and Bowen’s Island, “On the road to Folly” is, “An old oyster shack on stilts” that offers, “Amazing sunsets and a fun rustic feel.” Tempest is, “A new spot on Market Street” that Shep, “Really enjoys.” And The Commodore is another one of Shep’s, “Basic rec’s”—a Chicago blues club mixed with a New Orleans jazz dive vibe, for great local live funk music and dancing, “Not cheesy or filled with millennials.” Shep adds that there are, “So many new and cool places out near North Charleston. It’s worth a day trip…

Go to a Holy City brewery and park circle and have a day.”

Home, clothing and accessories designer Julia Amory just opened a new store at 445 King Street (Suite 102) in Charleston.

If you haven’t purchased one of Julia’s colorful pareos or flattering Baby Jane dresses, or seen Julia on the ’gram talking about how she puts together her latest looks, head over to @juliaamory and check her out. “We are so thrilled to have opened our second Clockwise from top left: Gibbes Museum of Art in Charleston at night; inside of the Julia Amory store at 445 King Street, Suite 102, Charleston, SC; designer Julia Amory.

Charleston, SC—the oldest community-based preservation organization in the U.S.; Spoleto Festival USA’s Front Row Series features outdoor concerts in the College of Charleston’s Cistern Yard; Holley Neary of @byholley with her husband and Goldendoodle pup, Virginia.

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F EAT U RE D ON T YL E R PAG E WRI G H T OF @ WAL K AN DTAL KC H S ; @ B YH OL L EY

From above: The Preservation Society of Charleston at 147 King Street,

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brick and mortar location in Charleston, a city which has retained all the charm of a small town while becoming a mecca for those seeking the latest in food, fashion and hospitality. The vibrance of the community has made it one of the most dazzling vacation destinations in the southeast and we’re thrilled to be a part of all of the excitement on King Street”.

We were also grateful to catch up with relatively recent NYC transplant Rebecca Regan, who finds Charleston to be a blend of some of her favorite places from growing up, “It has a dollop of the urban energy of NYC, a dollop of the country vibes of Millbrook, and a double-dollop of the historic charm mixed with the nautical vibes of Nantucket and/or Rhode Island. And then there are the beaches… On any given day, I can drive 15-20 minutes and walk along some of the most beautiful and incredibly wide beaches I have ever seen. I have developed a love affair with collecting seashells...”

Holley Neary is a local Charleston digital creator and selfnamed, “Dress lover, social butterfly, champion of others, skincare enthusiast, travel aficionado, Labradoodle mum and Lady’s lady”. You can catch Holley’s latest selection of fashion, skincare, and lifestyle recommendations on Instagram at @byholley.

When considering a move from Alexandria to Charleston, what solidified the decision for Holley and her husband were, “Its people—their warmth, friendliness, and deep connection to the city’s past made us feel like we were part of something special.” Holley shares, “Living downtown in Charleston single, we’ve become deeply involved in the vibrant community. From

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S EAN PAVON E / I S TO C K ; ©️ AN N I E RE EV E S OF C H ARL E S TON , 2 0 1 5 S C P I C T U RE P ROJ E C T. ORG ;

supporting the world-renowned Spoleto Festival to playing a part in the city’s preservation efforts and supporting the stunning Gibbes Museum, we’ve fully embraced all that Charleston has to offer... This city provides the ideal mix of sophisticated urban life and the warmth of a small town, and each day here feels like a celebration of its charm.”

Lia Burke Libaire, a Charleston-based visual artist and designer who is known for her classic botanical artwork with a twist, shares that, “Charleston is wonderful for families. We live downtown and the proximity of everything makes life with children easy. We’ve been bringing our kids to Folly Beach or Sullivan’s lately and they are both only about 15 or 20 mins away. It’s nice to be able to head to the beach on a whim for an hour or so and not have to make it an entire day trip.” For shopping, Lia suggests, “There is a new adorable shop called Nette in the Hampton Park area. They carry Agolde jeans, Janessa Leoné hats and Dôen, among other cool small brands. It is right next to Sightsee Coffee which is also newly opened. My art studio is also there, which is open by appointment. “ Charleston’s cultural heritage, friendly atmosphere, historic architecture, walkability, Waterfront Park, culinary scene and—“Southern Charm”—have earned Charleston its place as one of the top cities in the world. From its grand, antebellum mansions and cobblestone streets South of Broad to the more sheltered, quiet and community-focused lifestyle of Sullivan’s Island, to the vibrant and exciting scene of downtown Charleston, this lively and historic destination truly seems to offer something for everyone. Its city’s port is one of the busiest in the nation—and its unique blend of tradition and modernity have made it one of the most attractive places to live, work and visit.◆ From above: the skyline over the Ashley River in Charleston; Hampton Park of Charleston captured by ©️Annie Reeves of Charleston, 2015, for scpictureproject.org; visual artist and designer Lia Burke Libaire.

OCTOBER 2024 95

LOWCOUNTRY LOCALS

BY CAROLINE GRISWOLD

Four tastemakers who are redefining Charleston’s style and flair.

Hart Hagerty strolls by the HART storefront on King Street. Opposite page: Hagerty inside HART, showcasing its diverse jewelry collection.

HART HAGERTY

C O U R TE S Y OF H AR T J EWE L RY

HART

A SEVENTH-GENERATION Charlestonian, Hart Hagerty founded the eponymous jewelry brand HART, renowned for its custom charm jewelry and playful aesthetic. After graduating from Vanderbilt with majors in Chinese and Sociology, Hagerty lived in Shanghai for five years. During this time, she began making jewelry informally for friends, which led to the creation of her original tassel earring design. Upon moving to New York, she continued developing her jewelry line on the side, which steadily gained demand. However, it wasn’t until a change in her full-time work situation that she decided to pursue jewelry design as a full-time career.

The HART brand officially launched in 2016, and Hagerty returned to Charleston to start the business, partnering with her sister Curry as CEO. Since the success of the tassel earring, the brand has continued to expand. In 2019, Hagerty began designing beaded bracelets and unique charms, blending historical elements with modern aesthetics, while researching and sourcing coins.

That summer, Hagerty introduced HART’s first interactive charm bar at an event in San Francisco, a concept that has since become a cornerstone of the brand and its brick-and-mortar locations.

The flagship store in downtown Charleston, which began as an office space for private studio appointments, has evolved into a thriving retail experience, emphasizing Southern hospitality and kindness in customer interactions. Officially opened in 2021, it features beautiful marble charm bars where shoppers can create personalized charm necklaces or bracelets on the spot, with the help of a HART team member. A Nashville location has also opened, with plans for more locations in the future.

Hagerty’s priority is to create durable, high-quality, and authentic pieces that inspire meaningful connections to the wearer’s intentions and values. When asked how Charleston inspires her designs, she replied, “To me, Charleston evokes a sense of playfulness and indulgence in life’s pleasures—amazing restaurants, a vibrant social scene, beautiful architecture, etc.

But there’s another side to it. Its incredible natural beauty invites us to slow down, self-reflect, and go deep. The HART brand channels this special dichotomy of the city—it’s a little hedonistic, playful…but rooted in a deeper awareness and presence found only in nature.”

She values the changes Charleston has undergone since her childhood but is most inspired by what has remained the same— the stunning landscape and nature, which provide her with moments of peace, creative inspiration, and spiritual reflection.

HART is proud to be a Charleston-based brand with aspirations for global expansion.

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CHEF JAMES LONDON

CHEF JAMES LONDON and his restaurant, Chubby Fish, have been the talk of the town since its debut in 2018. This success can be attributed to a return to the chef ’s roots; London was born in Charleston before moving to Clemson, South Carolina, and often visited the Lowcountry in his youth. His fond memories of fishing in the Charleston waters inspired him to enroll at the College of Charleston (CofC) and sparked his growing passion for the restaurant industry. Starting humbly at just 14, he began as a dishwasher and worked his way up the ranks, cooking barbecue in Southern restaurants. After graduating from CofC, London moved to New York City to attend The French Culinary Institute, furthering his passion for the restaurant industry. At 26, he opened Niko, a fine dining Japanese restaurant in SoHo, where he served as Executive Chef. His culinary journey then took him to the West Coast, where he led the kitchen at The Elite Café, a renowned Creole restaurant in Pacific Heights, San Francisco.

In 2015, London began planning his return to the South to open his own restaurant. When asked what drew him back to the Lowcountry, he said, “I honestly feel that Charleston has the best seafood in the country. We have an insane variety of species, and most of our product comes directly from the fishermen or farmers. There are not many other places where you are afforded that luxury.” With this mission and a passion for sustainable seafood in mind, Chubby Fish opened its doors in 2018 and has been a hot spot ever since. A daily-changing menu showcases the best fresh catches and seasonal ingredients in the area, cementing Chubby Fish as a favorite among both locals and tourists.

As an avid outdoorsman, London spends weekends at the 98 QUEST

beach and on the water, deepening his connection to the food he prepares and strengthening his relationships with local fishermen and farmers. “I have an innate sense of respect for the product we receive because I know how difficult it is to catch or harvest it.” He loves being a part of the Charleston restaurant scene, especially sharing and instilling his passion with the people who work at Chubby Fish and its patrons.

Chubby Fish has received several accolades, including London’s recognition as a James Beard Award finalist for Best Chef Southeast in 2024.

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Chubby Fish

Chef James London. Opposite page, from above: Inside Chubby Fish; the restaurant’s entrance; Wagyu Beef Tartare paired with Bama white,

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horseradish, and trout roe.

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C O U R TE S Y OF H A M P DE N C L OTH I N G

Hampden Clothing at 314 King Street.

Opposite page: Stacy Smallwood.

STACY SMALLWOOD

P H OTO C RE DI T G OE S H E RE

Hampden Clothing

STACY SMALLWOOD’S family history in Charleston runs deep. In fact, her great-great-grandfather, James Hampden Small, immigrated to Charleston from Scotland. Although originally from Greenville, South Carolina, Smallwood spent her summers at her family home on Isle of Palms and recalls walking up and down King Street, admiring the local stores. Little did she know that she would one day make her own mark on Charleston’s King Street.

After graduating from Vanderbilt University, Smallwood joined the Neiman Marcus Buying Program. She began as an assistant buyer and advanced to department manager at the flagship store in Dallas, Texas, where she worked for five years.

During her time at this major retailer, she learned valuable lessons and observed the evolving fashion industry. She realized that some emerging talents would be better showcased in a specialty store that could tell their stories more effectively. This insight led to the creation of Hampden, and in February 2007, Smallwood opened her shop at 314 King Street. What started as a 1,500-square-foot space has steadily grown over the past 17 years into 10,000 square feet of retail space and a 7,000-squarefoot distribution center. Hampden is now the premier Southern destination for unique designer ready-to-wear, shoes, handbags, and accessories.

What makes Hampden Clothing so successful? It’s Smallwood’s keen understanding of the fashion industry and her commitment to featuring up-and-coming designers alongside established names, earning her a loyal clientele both locally and nationally.

This dedication extends beyond retail; Hampden feels more like a personal experience. Smallwood genuinely cares about her clients,

explaining, “There is nothing better than connecting with a woman in the dressing room and making her feel confident, empowered, and beautiful. We have helped women with everything from their rehearsal dinner dress to their first job, to the death of a loved one, or their new life after breast cancer. It is gratifying to support women not only during their most exciting moments but also in their most vulnerable times.”

Stacy Smallwood is dedicated to her team, her clients, and the designers she carefully selects to cultivate Hampden.

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GREGORY BLAKE SAMS

AWARD-WINNING EVENT planner and tastemaker Gregory Blake Sams attended the College of Charleston, where he focused on hospitality and discovered his passion for events. He was inspired to pursue a career in event planning after witnessing how a beautifully executed event could transform an environment.

After several years of designing and executing events for the Spoleto Festival USA, Sams launched Gregory Blake Sams Events in 2017. Since then, his business has expanded, leading him to split his time between Charleston and New York City.

From a young age, Sams was drawn to beautiful objects and spaces. This natural inclination led him to expand from event planning and residential design into retail with the opening of Wentworth, his first brick-and-mortar venture. Located at the corner of Wentworth and Rutledge in downtown Charleston— just a short distance from where Sams and his partner reside—Wentworth embodies his vision of a curated shopping experience. Sams and his team recognized a gap in Charleston for high-quality entertaining essentials: fresh linens, unique gifts, heirloom tabletop items, exquisitely scented candles, and more.

Wentworth offers this carefully selected range of new, vintage, and antique home and entertaining goods. Sams describes Wentworth as a place where “you feel like you’re visiting a friend’s beautifully curated home (where everything just happens to be 0 0 2Q Q 1 UU E SETS T

for sale!)” and a departure from the hustle and bustle of King Street. Wentworth is a place to relax, shop, and be inspired.

In addition to the curated retail assortment, Wentworth offers a unique design studio experience. Partnering with Marie Daâge, Quagliotti, Alvaro Picardo, and Bernardaud, Wentworth provides exclusive and custom design opportunities for clients, available by appointment only.

Sams is thrilled to continue the legacy of the historic Wentworth space, which has been a storefront since 1853, serving as a local grocer and, more recently, a multigenerational flower shop.

Charleston constantly inspires his event planning and design work, as well as his home entertaining. “From the historic architecture to the beautiful, lush landscape of the Lowcountry—the city is the mecca of Southern hospitality,” Sams says, and Wentworth is poised to further enhance this renowned persona. ◆

PH DI TWE G OE E RE C O OTO U R TECSRE Y OF N TSWHOR TH

Wentworth

Gregory Blake Sams at the entrance of Wentworth. Opposite page: Wentworth’s

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exterior, interior, and its curated offerings.

WOMEN WHO SHOOT WITH STYLE

C OU R TE S Y OF JA M E S P U RDEY & S ON S

BY JON AT H AN YOUN G

Serena Cross (née Williams) about to drop a high, driven bird.

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LITTLE’S APPARENTLY CHANGED in British driven gamebird shooting since Queen Victoria sat on the throne. Many of us still use guns made in her reign. Our shooting suits are built to a 100-year-old pattern. And we still bellow fruity oaths at labradors that have deserted us to chase rabbits. But appearances can be deceptive.

Amongst those tweed-encrusted figures you will increasingly spot some wearing a dash of cashmere or silk, for the chaps have been joined by the ladies. Our Annies have finally got their guns.

Women participants now comprise a significant sector in the UK shooting market, with ladies-only shooting clubs—such as The Shotgun and Chelsea Bun Club and Country Girls UK—barely keeping pace with the demand for clay pigeon and gamebird shoots. Gunmakers have not been slow to cater for this trend, with all the big makers—such as Beretta, Browning, Blaser, Perazzi, and Zoli—rushing to make guns specifically tailored for the female form.

And as with all change, there have been trailblazers, ladies who’ve been shooting since girlhood.

Rosie Whitaker, a lethally accurate grouse shot, was taught by her father, Sir Joe Nickerson, a titan in the British shooting scene who had the enthusiasm and wherewithal to shoot six days a week.

This page, counterclockwise from top right: “Hunting Party, Grouse Season, Ayrshire,” 1936; a lady photographed at Holland & Holland Shooting Grounds; Kaylie Bloxham. Opposite page, from above: Sally Prendergast, shooting, with daughter Katie, loading; the Princess of

PH N ATI OTO ON AL C REGDI ALTL EGRI OEESS HOF E RE S C OTL AN D ; C O U R TE S Y OF H OL L AN D & H OL L AN D

Wales during a pheasant hunt.

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REX F EAT U RE S

“I shot my first bird—a pheasant—when I was nine,” says Rosie, “with a single-barrelled .410. My father wanted me to learn to make the first shot count and not rely on a second barrel. I then progressed to a 28-bore when I was 14 and that’s when I realized, ‘Wow, I really can shoot!’” Today, she uses a pair of made-to-measure Spanish 20-bores, a present for her 18th birthday, and very, very few grouse get past her.

Serena Cross (née Williams) also uses a pair of Spanish 20-bores, usually on the family shoot at the ancestral home, Caerhays Castle, a fairytale confection overlooking a Cornish cove. “I ‘acquired’ them from Dad when I was 13 and somehow forgot to give them back…” she admits. Serena regularly shoots 30 to 40 days, everything from the grouse and high pheasants to woodpigeon and rabbits, though her favorite gamebird is undoubtedly the woodcock. Her prowess is such that she balances working on her new brand for lady shooters, Phoenix Sporting, with a role as brand ambassador for James Purdey & Sons, the world-famous London gunmaker. Serena thinks that “most of the women who shoot really well are tomboys. We’re stylish but we can get down and on without making a fuss or wishing to have attention drawn to us because we’re women.”

Her views are echoed by Nicole Escue Brocklebank-Fowler, who likes to shoot with other women so long as they are “kickass girls doing it seriously and not smothered in pink.” Born in Washington, D.C., she’s lived in the UK for 23 years and is Global Head of Property Portfolio at Clifford Chance, London. Taught by her father to plink cans in the backyard, she took up gameshooting properly in 2003 and, like many women, attended the women’s shooting course at the Holland & Holland Shooting Grounds, London. Like very many women, she favors Beretta 20-bores though hers have had their stocks fitted to her measurements.

OCTOBER 2024 107

P H OTO C RE DI T G OE S H E RE

The writer was editor of The Field, the world’s oldest sporting magazine, for 29 years and now spends his time pursuing bass, waterfowl, and his two errant Sealyham terriers.

S H U T TE RS TO C K

Sally Prendergast, a farmer’s wife and owner of the Side-by-Side country lifestyle shop, also uses specially-adapted Beretta 20-bores and doesn’t expect—or want—men to make a fuss about her sex. “I don’t want people thinking of me as a ‘lady’ Gun,” she says. “I just want to be treated as another sportsman in the field.”

That said, you would not mistake Sally for a man. She always dresses beautifully and “loves the Purdey range for ladies, especially their culottes.” Culottes are also the first choice for the elegant Kaylie Bloxham, keen shot and founder of Bloxham PR, and for Rosie Whitaker, who’s especially fond of those by Miller and Drake, which she teams with “proper, silk-lined leather shooting gloves, a Musto shooting coat with good cartridge pockets and a baker-boy style shooting cap.”

Warmth, stye, and functionality also determine the wardrobes for Serena Cross and Nicole Escue Brocklebank-Fowler. Serena likes her clothes “to fit like a second skin, so lots of silk and cashmere under a Purdey Field coat,” while Nicole’s “tweeds from Holland & Holland and Purdey’s are always worn with an Hermes scarf and masses of cashmere.”

All of which brightens up the usual sludgy colors of the British shooting scene as more women take up the gun, a trend that’s only set to grow according to Claire Sadler, vicechair of the the UK’s largest shooting organization, the British Association for Shooting and Conservation, who points to the recent surge of women applying for shotgun ownership. Her views are mirrored by Tania Coxon, who founded The Country Girls UK four years ago and has found “demand just completely mad, with every clay and gameshooting day we arrange selling out almost immediately.”

As a result, most men in the UK are likely to be sharing their shooting days with women in the future, as many of us do now.

And that’s only good for our sport. But the boys had better keep up, because the ladies have normally been trained very well. If you miss your bird, the chances are they won’t… ◆

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Tania Coxon during a hunt. Opposite page, from above: Rosie Whitaker; Nicole Escue Brocklebank-Fowler; HM The Queen (center) at a shooting party in 1958 at Meigle, Perthshire, with Lord Elphinstone (left) and

P H OTO C RE DI T G OE S H E RE

Lady Dalhousie (right).

JUNE 2021 00

ARTWORK IN THE SHOOTING FIELD

BY JON AT H AN YOUN G

A Boss & Co. sidelock engraved with Carolina duck and acanthus leaves. Opposite page, clockwise from top left: A pair of Watson Bros guns with deep-carved game scenes; A.A. Brown & Sons’ Supreme de Luxe with rose and scroll; a Boss & Co. side-lever sidelock with classic rose and scroll and color hardening.

Handmade British guns are not only functional, they are often artistic masterpieces.

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AMONG THE MANY MASTERPIECES in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, is a Mesopotamian gold and silver axe-head depicting an eagle-headed demon fighting a dragon.

It was made somewhere between the late third to early second millennium B.C. and is witness to man’s ancient urge to decorate arms, those most personal of possessions.

That desire for ornamentation survives and thrives in British, handmade, sporting guns, reflecting an intimacy of ownership that is perhaps only rivalled by yachts and sports cars. Each of these shotguns and rifles is unique, allowing the possessor to express his or her tastes through a piece built perfectly to despatch a bobwhite quail or a Cape buffalo.

There is a handful of firms that makes them, the oldest in London being Boss & Co., established in 1812 and now owned by Arthur DeMoulas, an American who’s loved the marque for decades.

The company’s renowned as the “Builders of Best Guns Only,” and in 1920 stated that “the owner of a Boss gun has the satisfaction of knowing that he has the best gun that money can buy,

and that no one has a better.” A century later, few - if any - would dispute that and the guns are still built in exactly the same way.

Back in the 1890s, the then owner, John Robertson, patented designs for “streamlining guns,” resulting in many labelling it “the racehorse of best guns.”

The main ‘canvas’ for the engraver’s art is the side of the gun, the lock plate, and on a Boss it is long, slender, and traditionally engraved in ‘rose and scroll’, resembling bunches of roses surrounded by tightly-furled ferns. It was ‘invented’ in the 1870s by James Lucas, an engraver at the equally famous James Purdey & Sons, founded in 1814, though some think he borrowed the design from Islamic art.

Boss’ engraver, John Sumner, adapted it some 20 years later, setting five bouquets of roses within prolific scroll and so established what’s become the firm’s house style.

“We want you to come in here and we will build you any gun or rifle you want,” says DeMoulas. “And some ask for a particular engraver. But most Boss customers are very conservative and the majority want our rose and scroll on color-hardened locks [the

From left: James Purdey & Sons’ over-and-under sidelock profusely decorated with acanthus leaves and gold inlay; the ‘Africa Rifle,’ built

by Westley Richards, a masterpiece in gun decoration; the conservative, classic elegance of a Boss & Co. pair.

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process that gives the blue/black/ochre finish] because it compliments the lines of a Boss so well.”

The same is true of many Purdey clients, says their master engraver Paul Chung, who’s practiced his art for 34 years. “Each gunmaker has a specific house engraving, and for Purdey this is called The Purdey Rose and Scroll. This pattern initially was born out of the design of the gun, to compliment the contours, symmetry and to highlight certain features. Now it is part of the classic look of a Purdey shotgun and part of gun engraving’s DNA. But with with different techniques come more opportunities to push the boundaries, which include deep carving, multi-gold inlay, and such detailed images on steel that you could be tricked into thinking you were looking at a portrait painting. Now, because of this, the sky’s the limit regarding what a customer might request.”

Chung stresses that becoming a master engraver takes “a lifetime’s journey. It’s only really validated by the more complex and detailed pieces you’re asked to complete. At present, that journey has taken me to intricate deep carving. It takes quite a while to complete but it’s worth it once it’s done.”

The complexity of that is underlined by Michael Louca, owner of Watson Bros, Gunmakers (founded 1885). “Basically there are two types of engravers - those who can carve and those who cannot. There is still a demand for small scroll for those who want a traditional looking gun but they are not as common now as bold leaf patterns. Game scenes have had an unusual journey - very popular in the '80s and '90s but less so now.”

Naturally, the more complicated the design, the longer it takes. “Standard engraving requires approximately three weeks,” says Louca, “while a special gun can take anything from six months to a few years as the engravers generally need breaks in between to keep fresh.”

His view is echoed by Robin Brown, owner of A.A. Brown & Sons (Gunmakers), established 1930: “Standard ‘house patterns’ would take three to six weeks these days. In the 1960s, our employed engraver, Les Jones, would engrave a Holland &

A Watson Bros hammergun with acanthus scroll on lock plates and barrels; a Westley Richards .410 quail gun depicting a bird-dog on point (inset).

Holland Royal type pattern in 10 days and it was done very well.

Highly carved or inlaid pieces can take up to a year to complete.

“Our most intricate commission was probably a pair of 20-bore best sidelocks we made for an American who had a passion for the 18th-century English inventor and engineer Matthew Boulton, and had portraits of him engraved on the actions by Keith Thomas. A more recent piece, also done for an American client, was a variation on our fine rose and scroll that included a scene on the action underside showing his favourite bird, a ruffed grouse, and the tail fan of a ruffed grouse spreading over the action fences. This work was done

by Nigel Westaway.”

What’s common to most gunmakers, today, is the increasing demand for intricate design. Anthony Alborough-Tregear, managing director of Westley Richards (founded in 1812), notes “Engraving today can be 'house' style - usually copied from classic guns or catalogues, giving the gun a traditional look or entirely bespoke. The only limiting factor is the customer’s budget. Custom engraving has always been an option but today the scope, quality, and artistry being applied to fine guns and rifles is of a higher standard than at any time in the past.

“Today, there is increased demand for 'high art'” he continues, “including really interesting and unusual engraving of beasts some of the designs created by Paul Lantuch for us are unlike anything done before. Even with traditional styles, the degree of precision and artistry applied to even well-known scroll engraving patterns is constantly being reimagined and elevated.”

As an example of what can be achieved, Alborough-Tregear cites the 'Boutet' gun built by Westley Richards in the '80s. “This gun had gold and silver inlay, diamonds set in platinum into the woodwork, solid silver ornamentation - the true definition of an 'Art Gun'. Since then, Westley Richards has been executing guns

and rifles of exceptional quality in terms of build and engraving design. Masterpieces such as 'The Africa Rifle', 'The India Rifle' and 'The Forest Rifle,' set modern standards in design and embellishment.”

And what of the artists themselves? What makes a man or woman choose this art form? Leo Lambert, house engraver at Westley Richards, says “There is not a specific type of person in particular who becomes engravers. Many of my engraver colleagues come with very varied backgrounds. But all share qualities which make a good artist in engraving: patience, resilience, curiosity, creativity - and a little bit of madness. Definitely you tend to meet interesting people when you encounter an engraver. Most of the time, they are passionate people whose world revolves around their art to which they have dedicated their life.”

Which means you do not have to travel to the Met in New York to see a masterpiece. This season, your quail-shooting friend might be holding one. ◆ The writer was editor of The Field, the world’s oldest sporting magazine, for 29 years and now spends his time pursuing bass, waterfowl, and his two errant Sealyham terriers.

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Quest STYLE

“Charleston has a landscape that encourages intimacy and partisanship… You can be moved profoundly by other vistas, by other oceans, by soaring mountain ranges, but you can never be seduced... You can never completely escape the sensuous, semitropical pull of Charleston...”

— Pat Conroy

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TON I F RI S S E L L

BY CHRIS MEIGHER & ELIZABETH MEIGHER

Counterclockwise from top right: Garden and Gun’s A Floral Fête, held at a private garden in downtown Charleston; Sportswoman and Charleston Grande Dame Gertrude “Gertie” Sanford Legendre with her English Springer Spaniels, photographed by Toni Frissell, 1958; Over The Moon Founder Alexandra Macon with her daughters, Catherine and Eleanor, 2021; Venita Aspen of Bravo’s “Southern Charm” during a photoshoot for Over The Moon at The Charleston Place hotel; interior designer Amanda Lindroth cuts the ribbon at her store opening in Charleston at 180 King Street. Opposite page: Barbara “Babe” Cushing Mortimer Paley (Mrs. Stanley Mortimer at the time) during a photoshoot at

OV E R TH E M O ON ; L AU R A S AU R / OV E R TH E M O ON . C O M ; AB B Y M U RP H YP H OTO. C O M

AN N E RH ET T / G ARDE N AN D G U N . C O M ; TON I F RI S S E L L ; AL EX AN DR A M AC ON / @

Charleston’s Heyward Washington House for Vogue, 1940.

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Counterclockwise from above: Cheerleaders at the College of Charleston, 1958; Charleston-based Grace Atwood of The Stripe—her blog (originally Stripes & Sequins) born out of her “love of fashion, beauty and making”; women in evening dress seated in a box at the Dock Street Theater in Charleston, South Carolina, 1937, photographed by Alfred Eisenstaedt; Alia Yahia-Bosworth, co-founder of sculpting swimwear label Stylest

TODAY. C H ARL E S TON . E DU ; TH E S TRI P E. C O M ; AL F RE D E I S E N S TAE DT ; @ TH E S T YL E S C O U T

and founder of fashion website and resource The Style Scout.

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I N G ; J U L I AB E ROL Z H E I M E R . C O M ; @ K RI S TI N C H A M B L E S S

WI L L I A M H E L B U RN ; DR AP E R JA M E S . C O M ; C YL E S U E Z / H A M P DE N C L OTH -

Quest STYLE

Counterclockwise from top right: Charleston-born model and actress Lauren Hutton photographed by William Helburn, 1965; Monica Lavin of Lavin Label wih her two camera-ready English Springer Spaniels; Caroline Griswold photographed for Charleston-based luxury designer boutique Hampden Clothing. The native New Yorker and College of Charleston graduate is currently the fashion editor of Gwyneth Paltrow’s Goop; Julia Berolzheimer, founder of shopping and lifestyle website juliaberolzheimer.com (previously Gal Meets Glam) and co-founder of Parterre, models J.McLaughlin “date night” dressing in Charleston this past spring; Kristin Chambless of Color by K—a Charleston-based blog featuring fashion, beauty, travel and home decor— passes by one of Charleston’s well-preserved, pre-revolutionary homes.

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Quest STYLE

Clockwise from top left: Jaimie Brown Dewberry photographed for luxury designer boutique Hampden Clothing. She is the Director of The Dewberry Foundation and Principal of Studio Dewberry, where she oversees design and procurement along with her husband, John Dewberry; Jasmine Woodard Rose, Grace Atwood, Annika Moffett, Jackie Thomson and Jillian Eversole enjoy a day of family fun together in Charleston; the annual PreserVISIONist Soirée at Nathaniel Russell House; Jimmy Stewart and

H A M P DE N C L OTH I N G . C O M ; @ AN N I K A . M OF F ET T ; H I S TORI C C H ARL E S TON . ORG ; L I B E R T Y F I L M S

Donna Reed dancing the Charleston in It’s a Wonderful Life, 1946.

118 QUEST

Clockwise from top left: Kate Towill, co-founder of hospitality and lifestyle brand Basic Projects, photographed for Loeffler Randall in Charleston; Harvard University and Columbia Law School graduate Jasmine Woodward Rose, a brand-building strategic and creative consultant, at home in Charleston; Ruthie Lovejoy stands in front of her family home on The Battery; Jillian Eversole takes a break from her eponymous Charlestonbased fashion, travel and lifestyle diary to visit Nantucket, MA; a stylish

B AI RE. C O M ; B I K EAB O U T. C O M

L OE F F L E RR AN DAL L . C O M ; JA S M I N EW O ODARDROS E. C O M ; J I L L I AN EV E RS OL E. C O M ; L I AB U RK E L I -

bicycler in Charleston—a city where exploring by bike is always encouraged.

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[CHARLESTON SHOPPING]

LOVESHACKFANCY

218 King Street / loveshackfancy.com Embracing unabashed femininity, LoveShackFancy was founded by Creative Director Rebecca Hessel Cohen. After designing the ideal bridesmaids’ dresses for her fairy-tale wedding, LoveShackFancy quickly evolved into a collection of fanciful silk dresses. The LoveShackFancy look is now defined by flattering silhouettes, soft hues, and intricate lace, with an emphasis on whimsical hand-dyed fabrics and enchanting vintage-inspired romantic floral prints. The brand opened its Charleston location in late 2021.

Set on King Street, the captivating world of LoveShackFancy comes alive like never before.

BEAU & RO

171 King Street / beauandro.com Beau & Ro was founded by Sara Rossi in 2013 in Sara Rossi’s New York City apartment. Rossi designed a high quality leather clutch + belt bag style, merging fashion with function. Produced in the Garment District, the line expanded into other styles and can still be found at Beau & Ro today! What started as a leather bag company has since grown into a full apparel brand sold in nearly 300 stores around the country, including the two Beau & Ro stores in Nantucket and the flagship in Charleston. Rossi carefully curates the shop with over 100 other brands that she loves, alongside Beau & Ro.

SHOES ON KING

Shoes at Surrey opened in 2009 in Augusta, Georgia’s charming Surrey Center. Owned by Catherine Boardman, the boutique features the best in women’s fashion footwear and handbags. Three years later, Boardman opened a sister store aptly named Shoes on King in the heart of Charleston’s Fashion District. The boutique offers a carefully curated collection from well-known and emerging designers-including Dolce Vita, Birkenstock, Ganni, Eileen Fisher, Jeffrey Campbell, Tory Burch, and Veronica Beardin a wide range of price points. The store’s commitment to customer service makes it a special shopping destination whether in person or online.

C O U R TE S Y OF RE S P E C TI V E B R AN DS

335 King Street / shoesonking.com

[CHARLESTON SHOPPING]

J.McLAUGHLIN

212 King Street / jmclaughlin.com The first J.McLaughlin store, located in an Ivy League-riddled enclave on Manhattan’s Upper East Side, was a small place with a welcoming, faded-paint feel. Today, with brick-and-mortar retail locations in more than 140 communities across the country—not to mention a flourishing e-commerce business—J.McLaughlin celebrates its continued success as a classic American clothier and one of the country’s last great first-name-basis retailers. The clothes are simple and smart—the J.McLaughlin website describes them as “innovatively nostalgic,” making them the perfect aesthetic for Charleston style.

CROGHAN’S JEWEL BOX

308 King Street / croghansjewelbox.com Croghan’s Jewel Box is Charleston’s oldest family-owned jewelry store. More than 100 years ago, William Joseph Croghan, a hand engraver and jeweler, opened his store in an 18th-century Charleston single house on King Street. While he began only occupying the side porch of the building as a little shop, over the years it has expanded to occupy the entire building. Located in the heart of the historic district, the business helps customers find and take care of their most valued and treasured possessions. With an eye on the future and a sincere appreciation of the past, the store offers a treasure trove of the most exciting and unique inventory in the Lowcountry, from estate and antique finds to gifts for every occasion.

JULIA AMORY

C O U R TE S Y OF RE S P E C TI V E B R AN DS ; N I C K M E L E

445 King Street, Suite 102 / juliaamory.com Julia Amory developed her eponymous brand while searching for printed fabric to use for the tables at her own wedding in Southampton.

Unable to find the perfect print at an affordable cost, Amory eventually discovered the artisans of India and all the beautiful prints being created by hand. She began to design her own patterns using the Indian blockprint technique to produce napkins and tablecloths. The brand opened its second retail location on King Street in Charleston in June. Designed in collaboration with Caitlin Kah Interiors, the space features custom fitting rooms, a cash wrap, and seating area in Julia Amory’s signature print, “Coral Petunia.”

Stop by to shop the brand’s linens, accessories, and clothing.

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[CHARLESTON SHOPPING]

BURU

205 Meeting Street / shopburu.com In 2013, Morgan Hutchinson had her first child – a daughter, Olive. A few weeks after that, she and Olive had a mutual meltdown at a restaurant when Hutchinson couldn’t feed her while wearing a high-neck dress.

Hutchinson sought easier access and more flexible fits. Over 10 years later, her family has built a brand, Buru, for women in all stages of life. Every Buru piece is inspired by the clothes Hutchinson’s grandmother and mom wore, but designed for the modern woman. The brand just opened its first brick-and-mortar location at The Charleston Place Hotel.

BILLY REID

150 King Street / billyreid.com In 2004, Billy Reid was founded in Florence, Alabama. Three shops in Florence, Dallas, and Houston became 11, with locations in New York, Chicago, and Los Angeles, and Southern cities like New Orleans, Austin, Nashville, and Charleston. Billy Reid’s designs never put flash over substance, which is why they’re still wardrobe staples for people 20 years after bringing them home. From the looks that make their way down the runway for Fashion Week, to the go-to t-shirt you wear every weekend, each piece from Billy Reid receives the same amount of care and craftsmanship.

Known as “A Modern Southern Studio,” Billy Reid’s Charleston store is ideally located on King Street.

CANDLEFISH

With two locations in Charleston and Boston, Candlefish is a unique storefront and workshop with a focus on all things fragrance. It’s known for its library of 100 signature scents—a collection of distinctly unnamed candles that encourage customers to follow their instincts, rather than preconceived notions. A joyful exploration of scent and beauty, the shop is filled to the brim not only with candles, but accessories, decor, and complementary treasures, too. At the Charleston location, shoppers can enjoy daily workshops, the perfect group activity or solo creative endeavor.

Expert chandlers lead participants through the process, from choosing a scent to mixing and pouring.

C O U R TE S Y OF RE S P E C TI V E B R AN DS

270 King Street / candlefish.com

[CHARLESTON SHOPPING]

DAWN NAKAMURA

dawnnakamura.com Nature artist Dawn Nakamura artfully curates arrangements of curiosities using shells, butterflies, insects, and crustaceans. Her art is inspired by the German Wunderkammer (cabinets of wonder) housing notable objects and by the Victorian period which held taxidermy and other treasures inside glass domes. Her 19th century European domes house creations that are all one-ofa-kind and custom-created for the clients or artists vision. Dawn sustainably sources select butterflies and shells from around the globe to present a lifelike display of movement inspired by nature.

MINNOW

145 King Street, Suite 120 minnowswim.com Minnow is a family lifestyle brand that embraces clean lines, simple details and crisp seaside breezes. Timeless yet fresh, playful, and polished, Minnow lives for long days, sandy toes, and the wonderment of childhood on the shore. Minnow’s mission is to create premium products that will inspire family experiences. The brand is a reflection of the life and style of its founder, Morgan Smith, a mother and entrepreneur with a background in premium product marketing. After working in New York and Los Angeles, she returned to her hometown of Laguna Beach, where minnow was born. She now lives on the other coast in Charleston with her husband and three children.

HILL HOUSE HOME

C O U R TE S Y OF RE S P E C TI V E B R AN DS ; JAC Q U E L I N E S TOF S I C K

145 King Street / hillhousehome.com Nell Diamond founded Hill House Home with a dream to make happy things for happy places.

With a design-centric approach, Hill House offers impeccable quality, and timeless, delicate styles through quality products designed to enhance and celebrate life. An aesthetic point-of-view and customer-led approach bring a fresh, accessible perspective to these time honored categories. Visit the Charleston boutique to shop the brand’s Bedding & Home line, robes and pajamas, and everyday clothing for women, kids, and babies. Don’t miss the best-selling Nap Dress, the brand’s signature garment; soft, comfortable, and pretty enough to wear all day and night. ◆ OCTOBER 2024 123

M U R R AY

YGL

THE YOUNG & THE GUEST LIST B Y B R O O K E K E L LY M U R R AY

Prabal Gurung and Claudia Schiffer.

Clockwise from top left: Vera Wang and Anna Wintour; Anja Rubik; Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele and Linda Evangelista; audience; Victor Glemaud, June Ambrose, Kathryn Neale Shaffer, and Hunter Abrams.

B FA

CINEMA SOCIETY’S SCREENING OF IN VOGUE: THE 90S IN NEW YORK TO CONCLUDE New York Fashion Week, the Cinema Society, along with Tonne Goodman, Mark Guiducci, and Anna Wintour, hosted an exclusive screening of Hulu’s In Vogue: The 90s at NeueHouse. The series takes viewers behind the scenes of a transformative decade that elevated supermodels to celebrity status and turned music moguls into fashion icons, featuring some of the most prominent figures in both fashion and pop culture.

OCTOBER 2024 125

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FRIENDS OF THE CFDA’S FALL COCKTAIL PARTY IN NEW YORK DURING NEW YORK Fashion Week, Stacey Bendet Eisner, a CFDA member, and her neighbor Laurence Milstein co-hosted an event to raise awareness for the organization. Guests indulged in small bites, cocktails, and Champagne as they mingled between the two residences.

Stacey Bendet Eisner and Nicky Hilton Rothschild

B FA

Thom Browne and Laurence Milstein

Brett Heyman, Lisa Evans, and Georgina Chapman 126 QUEST

Claire Florence

THE ST. REGIS NEW YORK TOASTS ITS 120TH ANNIVERSARY CLOSED TO the public for one night only, a private reception was held at The St. Regis New York’s newly

refreshed King Cole Bar to celebrate the hotel’s 120th anniversary. Guests sipped on cocktails while enjoying an exclusive first look at the revamped spaces, including the elegant lobby and newly unveiled dining venues, all while soaking in the timeless luxury that has defined the hotel for over a century. ◆

King Cole Bar

G ET T Y I M AG E S

Stephanie Nass and Elizabeth Kurpis

Octavia Marginean-Tahiroglu

Andrew Timberlake and Carlos Huber

King Cole Bar Bartenders OCTOBER 2024 127

SNAPSHOT

ARTFULLY CHARLESTON B Y B R O O K E K E L LY M U R R AY

CHARLESTON, with its timeless charm and rich history, is a city that captivates at every turn. In these portraits by local artist Lyda McLean Brown, the heart of the city is beautifully brought to life. Her work reflects the pastel-hued homes, cobblestone streets, and the warm elegance that defines Southern living.

From serene porches to iconic landmarks like Charleston Harbor and Sullivan's Fish Camp on Sullivan's Island, each piece offers a vivid glimpse into the Holy City's beauty and spirit. ◆ 02 1 0 8Q Q UU E SETS T

LIVING IN THE PINK.

We look forward to welcoming you to Palm Beach’s pinkest hotel.

155 H A M M O N AV E N U E PA L M B E AC H FL 33 48 0 (561) 655-54 3 0 T H E C O LO N Y PA L M B E AC H .C O M

Graduated Diamond Riviere Necklace, Circa 1900

The Greenleaf & Crosby Estate Collection

Buying, Selling & Collecting Since 1868