Quest September 2016

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THE SECRET IS OUT. For many years Tuxedo Park has been a secret Alpine oasis of historic homes surrounding three lakes in the foothills of the Ramapo Mountains only 30 minutes from the George Washington Bridge, but I could never keep a secret—so I am excited to share with you some of our plans and properties that have just come on the market in Tuxedo Park.

Over the last few months, we formed the Tuxedo Hudson Company and Tuxedo Hudson Realty to take advantage of this under-the-radar location that is ripe for discovery and restoration.

Uniquely situated in a valley that separates two state parks of nearly 70,000 acres of trails and lakes in every direction that was once, and will soon again be, the proud Gateway to the Hudson Valley.

Tuxedo Hudson Company has to date purchased 20 historic commercial buildings along the Tuxedo - Sloatsburg corridor that will be restored and re-envisioned as a destination for great food with a focus on the bounty of the Hudson Valley. The centerpiece of the project will be the once famous market in Tuxedo that was owned and operated by the same family for nearly 100 years until the 1990s. The market will reopen in 2017 with the best of everything available from

$6,250,000

Bruce Price Designed Lakefront Estate with Boathouse and Dock.

the Hudson Valley and will feature a wood burning grill and a weekend farmers market to supplement the daily offerings from local farms.

As excited as we are about the market and restaurants we are opening in Tuxedo, we might be even more excited about the new boutique hotel we are creating out of a complex of nine Victorian houses in the center of Sloatsburg. This small hotel will be geared toward people who love to cycle, and will have easy access directly into Harriman State Park with a train station just a few doors away.

Bring your bike or ride your bike right up the 9W and through the park and stay the night. The hotel has yet to be named but we see it as our version of the Standard Hotel with a pool and poolside dining.

As the founder of 1stdibs, antiques and design will always be part of my life, so we are thrilled to have been able to acquire the long abandoned Stewart Farm and its neighboring properties to create our own Antiques and Design District on nearly 12 acres of rolling grass with old farm houses and stone barns. On the farm will be room for 30 dealers, exhibition space and a horse rescue.

$1,400,000

6000 sq ft contemporary on 3 Tuxedo Lake waterfront acres, with stone steps down to the water and floating dock.

$1,975,000

Designed by Bruce Price, this exquisite “cottage” best exemplifies the community’s unique history.

Tuxedo Hudson Realty was launched this March to take advantage of exciting real estate opportunities in the area. There are exceptional properties that were designed by the great architects of the day that can be purchased for a fraction of their replacement cost, in fact, within this book we are offering houses designed

by Delano & Aldrich, Walker & Gillette, and Bruce Price.

$5,400,000

Walker & Gillette designed mountain top manor in 1922 with breathtaking views of Tuxedo Lake.

$4,250,000

1900 Delano & Aldrich Mountain Top Estate with Spectacular Terraces and Lawns.

TUXEDO PARK

THE ULTIMATE CAMP The real estate market in Tuxedo is diverse, from great estates to sweet gardener’s cottages and carriage houses—there is something for anyone who loves nature, privacy and security. Tuxedo Park is the only gated incorporated village in the state of New York—a world away and only a short drive to Manhattan. There is no place like it.

Tuxedo Hudson Realty is servicing the entire lower Hudson Valley.

For more information on our properties please visit our websites: TuxedoHudsonRealty.com; TuxedoHudsonCompany.com; or feel free to call us anytime at 845 915 4567.

Michael Bruno,

$5,500,000

1920s Gentleman’s Horse Barn Converted to a Spectacular Residence on 11 Acres with Horse Stalls.

$1,100,000

George Baker 6-Bedroom Dutch Gardener’s Cottage on 8 Acres.

Founder, Tuxedo Hudson Company

845-915-4567 info@tuxedohudsoncompany.com 3 Store Rd, Tuxedo, NY 10987

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122

CONTENTS Fall Fashion i ssue 98

ARIANA ALL-AMERICAN

Ariana Rockefeller is finding her place in

136

her storied family legacy—and in the world of fashion. produced and daniel cappello, photographed by Julie skarratt

styled by

108

PRESIDENTIAL BIDDING

114

FIRST DAUGHTER FASHION

122

TREND SPOTTING Pinning down the hottest fall fashion trends from the runways around the world. by alex travers

130

CAPTURING FASHION

136

FASHION THAT LUNCHES

140

QUEST ARCHIVE

An inside view of the private life of Nancy and Ronald Reagan, now up for auction at Christie’s New York. by daniel cappello

In the race for the Oval Office, Quest asks designers to outfit Chelsea Clinton and Ivanka Trump. produced by daniel cappello

In a new book from Flammarion, Gleb Derujinsky gets his dues as an innovator of fashion photography. by daniel cappello Fashion Week kicks off with the Museum at FIT’s Couture Council benefit luncheon, where chic meets cheeky. by lily hoagland G. Bruce Boyer on the origins of classic men’s fashion.

114

THE DATEJUST The archetype of the modern watch has spanned generations since 1945 with its enduring functions and aesthetics.

It doesn’t just tell time. It tells history.

OYSTER PERPETUAL DATEJUST 31

rolex

oyster perpetual and datejust are

®

trademarks.

62

76

CONTENTS

68

c olumns 26

SOCIAL DIARY

62

HARRY BENSON

64

PIP, PIP, HOORAY

66

FOOD AND LIFESTYLE

68

FRESH FINDS

76

AUDAX

78

TRAVEL

82

OPEN HOUSE

84

QUADJOBS

A new start-up helps to connect students with job opportunities.

88

WEDDINGS

Quest says, “we do” to these weddings.

93

FINANCE

94

REAL ESTATE

96

SOCIAL CALENDAR

158

YGL

160

SNAPSHOT

Back to fashion as the Couture Council honors Albert Kriemler. by david patrick columbia The dramatic and unique fashion designer and writer Mary McFadden in the early 1970s.

The Duchess of Cambridge’s younger sister gets engaged. by taki theodoracopulos Reckoning with Instagram while remembering a famous aunt.

by

alex hitz

Cooler temps mean it’s time for new threads. by daniel cappello and elizabeth meigher

Looking back at the 100-year-old rivalry behind the Seabright-Rockaway Hunt tennis match.

The Ritz Paris is back in business following a four-year renovation.

by

e lizabeth s tribling

“Ocean Lawn”—an estate on the Atlantic Ocean—beckons from Newport, Rhode Island.

by

by

elizabeth Quinn brown

b ridie l overro

and

elizabeth meigher

Politicians should do more than pay lip service to helping small businesses. by robert g. wilmers A modern lake house retreat includes a boathouse and all the best of lake house living.

All the events and galas worth saving the date for in the transition from summer to fall.

On the scene with our scribe, who ventures to Montauk (for surfing). by elizabeth Quinn brown The 1973 fashion show heard ’round the world is relived again in film.

by

daniel cappello

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From left: Daniel Cappello helps Ariana Rockefeller with a Verdura bracelet inside the Metropolitan Opera House at Lincoln Center; Coco Chanel was one of the many luminaries who called the Ritz home, seen here in her suite in 1937; a model showing off one of the season’s hottest trends: brocade.

24 QUEST

a masterpiece) turned to fashion designer and equestrienne Ariana Rockefeller for a day at the stables of Grand Central Farm in North Salem, New York, and a night at the Metropolitan Opera House at Lincoln Center. Ariana proves that, like horses, good breeding will tell. u

Lily Hoagland

ON THE COVER: Ariana Rockefeller, with her horse Stuart at Grand Central Farm in North Salem, New York, wears an embroidered tulle dress

by Valentino, Jimmy Choo shoes, and Karina Brez earrings. From “Ariana AllAmerican,” produced by Daniel Cappello and photographed by Julie Skarratt.

M O R G A N CO LLE C T I O N / G E T T Y I M A G E S

TO ME, the Ritz Paris is a chausson au pommes. Cousin to the apple turnover, it’s the third alternative for breakfast, after the more beloved croissants and pains au chocolat.

When made well, the warm apple compote enfolded in a delicate crust is transcendental. And who made the best in Paris, according to this young American girl? The Ritz, hands down.

In 2012, when the hotel closed its doors, the well-heeled regulars from around the world tearfully accepted that they would need to go elsewhere while the old lady got a little work done.

(It was only supposed to be for two years, but like any construction job, it ended up being twice that). Now reopened, the jet set and société mondaine are rushing back into the hotel’s familiar embrace. I will try the chausson au pommes and report back if it is still the best in the city, and, like Proust’s madeleine, let it remind me of my Parisian childhood.

Meanwhile, in New York’s present, the Fashion circus is back in town, with more sideshow attractions than ever.

Since losing a single venue for all the big shows, Fashion Week is becoming a more open and democratic beast, reflecting the current cultural spirit which substitutes established hierarchies for communal expression. And since the venues are all around town, Uber will probably make up their recently posted $1.27bn loss in this one week.

For our cover shoot, the always-stylish Daniel Cappello (you should see him pack for a weekend getaway—it’s

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A

David Patrick Columbia

NEW YORK SO CIAL DIARY SUMMER’S OVER and fall be-

this year has been the hottest on record.

September is the month of New York Fashion Week.

Yes, a month for a week.

While the “official” week of shows runs for eight days, the surrounding events—the leadup and the aftermath—pretty much dominate the month for

gins. It was a hot one, that’s for sure. NASA Earth Observatory reported that July was the hottest July in 136 years.

August couldn’t have been far behind, at least in New York.

The U.S. National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration reported that every month

a lot of New Yorkers.

There are more than 120 designers with shows participating, and that’s not counting the many other events staged by designers, their backers, their suppliers, and the party circuit in general. Then, there are the venues for these collections (which are all over

town) and covering a good number of them is a staggering project for anyone. The public can now buy tickets to a lot of them, so it has officially transformed from a preview of a collection for retailers to a semi-celeb fest—a somethingto-do when in New York, or you’re otherwise bored stiff.

MO N MO U T H C O U N T Y H I STO R I C A L A S S O C I AT I O N ’ S “ G A R D E N PA R T Y ” I N R U M S O N

Hope and Charlie Jones

Peter and Allison Rockefeller with Mark Gilbertson 26 QUEST

Diane Millhiser with Ross and Aaron Millhiser

Ann and Tom Unterberg

Chuck and Shea Jones

Christina Gimbel with Tom and Valerie Gimbel

CO U RTE S Y O F M O N M O U T H CO U N T Y H I S TO R I C A L A S S O C I AT I O N

Evelyn Tompkins

THIMBLE ISLANDS PORTFOLIO 8 Private Homes on 8 Private Islands Stony Creek, CT | $78,000,000

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Senior Global Real Estate Advisor, Associate Broker Greenwich Brokerage 203.618.3103 shelly.tretter@sothebyshomes.com

NIKKI FIELD

BILL FANDEL

SHELLY TRETTER LYNCH

This advertisement does not suggest that the broker has a listing or has done a transaction in this property or properties. Sotheby’s International Realty (SIR) advertises this property as a referring agent only, and SIR does so with the consent of the listing broker. SIR will be referring buyers to the seller or local listing broker for the property who will provide information about the property and negotiate any agreements for the purchase of this property. Any information provided by SIR about the property was provided to SIR by the seller or local listing broker and has not been verified by SIR. Buyers should consult with their legal counsel or local real estate professional concerning the property or any resultant transaction.

D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A That is because the fashion business is now controlled by the events business, and it is a big business. That said, for those who attend for the fun of it, it is probably interesting or amusing, or both.

The fashion business, even without the events business, is highly competitive. And it may be more competitive than ever before. Bloggers become designers. Fifty years ago, when John Fairchild was elevating the industry to new and greater commercial exposure, there were about a dozen major designers that dominated the upper end. The rest were simply manufacturers.

The week unofficially begins on Wednesday, September

7, with the annual luncheon hosted by the Fashion Institute of Technology (F.I.T.)’s Museum at F.I.T. (and its Couture Council). This event that has now become an unofficial opening of the fall social season in New York was the brainchild of Valerie Steele, who is the director of the Museum at F.I.T. The Couture Council was put in motion in 2004 by Liz Peek and Yaz Hernandez.

They held their first lunch in 2005 and honored Ralph Rucci, who is graduate of F.I.T. Eleven years later, they are raising nearly a million dollars each year. The funds go to support the museum, which is an invaluable education-

al asset for F.I.T. Everybody wins. This year’s luncheon is co-chaired by Audrey Gruss and Lisa Klein with Daphne Guinness and Sou Fujimoto as honorary chairs.

Each year, they honor a major designer with the Couture Council Award for Artistry of Fashion. This year’s honoree is Albert Kriemler, who is possibly the least well-known of the major fashion designers—and yet, one of the longest running, most successful fashion designers in the world.

His line and his boutiques are known as Akris. Akris has a special customer. She likes classic, she likes style, she likes quality, and she likes it to look like it all comes naturally. And

so it does with Kriemler. His customer is sure to be there by the score to pay tribute to him this year—wearing Akris, of course.

The luncheon is held at Lincoln Center, which for a long time was the main venue for the major shows. It was usually held at David Geffen Hall (which was Avery Fisher Hall). This year’s location is the promenade at the David H. Koch Theater.

Speaking of “fashion”…

On the last Tuesday of July, with the temperature topping out in the low 90s and a “real feel” reaching 107, I went down to Michael’s to have lunch with Linda Fairstein, the best-selling author of

C O C K TA I L S W I T H A L Z H E I M E R ’ S A S S O C I AT I O N I N W AT E R M I L L

Kelli Delaney and Mark Kot 28 QUEST

Harry Johns and Princess Yasmin Aga Khan

Daryl Simon, Robin Meltzer and Michele Herbert

Sharon Bush and Anne Hearst McInerney

George Farias and Alina Cho

Randy Harris and Amanda Hearst

Chris Hency

PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N

Bill Brand and Karyn Kornfeld

E X TE ND YOUR SUM M ER WITH A MORNING DIP IN THE OCEAN, SUNBATHING IN A CABANA WHILE SIPPING A FRESH COLD-PRESSED JUICE AND AN AFTERNOON KITE SURFING SESSION. THESE ARE JUST A FEW WAYS OWNERS CAPTURE THE DAY.

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ORAL REPRESENTATIONS CANNOT BE RELIED UPON AS CORRECTLY STATING THE REPRESENTATIONS OF THE DEVELOPER. FOR CORRECT REPRESENTATIONS, REFERENCE SHOULD BE MADE TO A PURCHASE CONTRACT AND THE OTHER DOCUMENTS REQUIRED BY SECTION 718.503, FLORIDA STATUTES, TO BE FURNISHED BY A DEVELOPER TO A BUYER OR LESSEE. THIS IS NOT INTENDED TO BE AN OFFER TO SELL CONDOMINIUM UNITS IN ANY STATE WHERE PROHIBITED BY LOCAL LAW AND YOUR ELIGIBILITY FOR PURCHASE WILL DEPEND UPON YOUR STATE OF RESIDENCY. FOR NEW YORK PURCHASERS ONLY, REFERENCE SHOULD BE MADE TO THE CPS-12 APPLICATION FOR THE CONDOMINIUM FILED WITH THE STATE OF NEW YORK, DEPARTMENT OF LAW FILE NO. CP16-0063. EQUAL HOUSING OPPORTUNITY.

D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A ARMARIUM INTRODUCE S MISSONI IN SOUTHAMPTON

Maria Papathanasiou

detective thrillers (all centered in New York) who is a former New York Assistant D.A. and prosecutor focusing on crimes of violence against women and children.

She and I have known each other for a long time. So long that I can’t remember how we met. It might have been when she was publicizing one of her now 18 novels featuring a lady detective named Alexandra Cooper (or “Alex” to everyone who knows her) who dated Mike Chapman (or “Coop”) the ace N.Y.P.D. detective.

When Linda was a kid, Nancy Drew was her idol. So, it wasn’t accidental that, after finishing up at Vassar College, 30 QUEST

Linda Taylor and Caroline Rush

she went to University of Virginia’s School of Law before she got a job in D.A. Frank Hogan’s office in New York.

This was in 1972. She was 25.

In those days, Hogan (who was highly respected) believed that female lawyers should stay out of the courtroom.

Their place was in the libraries where they could investigate the laws. Linda, like a lot of women of her generation, wanted more. She wanted to participate. She took up the uneasy, rarely discussed or reported, difficult subject of domestic abuse on women and children. It was a good idea for everybody.

She loved her job and she

Alexandra Lind Rose and Trisha Gregory

Mary Snow and Dayssi Olarte de Kanavos

Marigay McKee

made a name for herself in New York law circles. Her ultimate dream job, however, was to be Police Commissioner, or rather, the first woman Police Commissioner. That, of course, never happened.

The idea of a woman in the job still doesn’t sit well with a lot of men in that profession (and other professions, too).

Back then nobody even took it seriously.

When she was growing up, her father—who was always actively supportive and knew his daughter’s enthusiasm for writing—strongly suggested that she get herself a profession before embarking on a “writing” career, as would any

Ottavio Missoni, Jr.

“sensible” father of that time (late 1960s). She followed his advice and gone to law school.

After a successful career as a prosecutor (and concluding that her “dream” of being Police Commissioner wasn’t realistic) she gravitated to her original dream.

Linda writes about New York. This latest, Killer Look, is about a top fashion designer with everything to live for who suddenly “commits suicide.” The fashion world (which used to be known as the garment business) is something familiar to me because of my own personal business experience and because, thanks to the late Fair-

B FA . CO M

Brodi Borchardt and Caroline von Krackow

A HOUSE IN THE COUNTRY, A HOME IN THE CITY

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A child and his Women’s Wear Daily, it is closely related to the social world of New York.

A novel a year is astoundingly productive. I asked her at lunch “how” she worked.

Her reply sounded simple.

She gets up around 7 a.m. and is at her keyboard by about 7:30 a.m. Before beginning her work, like a lot of us, she hits the Internet and checks in with the news, friends’ emails, and other points of interest. At about 8 a.m., she starts. With approximately three cups of black coffee, she works until late morning nearing noon.

Then, she begins the other part of her day, including: lunches, appointments, and reading. In summer, she spends a good

part of her time on Martha’s Vineyard. where she and her husband Michael Goldberg have a house.

Meanwhile, Michael’s on that afternoon was a mob scene—which is highly unusual on a steaming hot day in Manhattan. Roger Ailes, looking very relaxed after his recent departure from Fox, was there with his wife Elizabeth Tilson. They were drawing a lot of visitors to their table, including his neighbor Sir Michael Caine, who was lunching with the chicest, most glamorous talent agent in the business, Boaty Boatwright.

Around the room that day: Publicist/producer Bonnie Timmermann; Hollywood

Reporter’s Roger Friedman with Wayne Kabak; Jonathan Estreich; Jimmy Finkelstein; Harry Hawks of Hearst Argyle Television; Jack Kliger; Eva Mohr with Kathie Lee Gifford; Jack Myers with Rene Appel; Jonathan Newcomb of Berenson & Co.; Pete Peterson, founder of BlackRock; Martin Puris; Euan Rellie; Tom Rogers; Shari Rollins; David Stern; Judy Twersky; Jeremy Zimmer of United Talent Agency; Colleen Larsen; Lisa Linden with Jeanine Pirro; Richard Lorenzen; Tomas Maier; Tom Strauss; Phillip Summers from Lazard; Nathalie Moar; Dylan Page; Hilary Gumbel; and Bill McCuddy.

This birthday boy was gifted with a dessert with a candle and a “Happy Birthday” song from Michael’s Michael McCarty and Steve Millington, the G.M. Also there: Julian Niccolini, the co-owner (along with Alex von Bidder) of the now former restaurant: The Four Seasons.

He was looking good, in fine fettle and getting a chance to see many of his longtime guests. Their restaurant had closed a couple of weeks before. Julian and Alex will be opening a new restaurant a couple of blocks down Park Avenue, although it will take some time to put it together.

Susan Magrino was also present, lunching with Mi-

4 0 T H A N N UA L B A L L AT N AT I O N A L M U S E U M O F R AC I N G I N S A R ATO G A

Eddie and Catherine Kenneally with Andy Barr

Members of the Hall of Fame 32 QUEST

Marylou Whitney and John Hendrickson

Naomi Buchanan, Ramon Dominguez and Caroline Burke

Anastasie and John O’Connor

Christopher and Shawna Dragone

TO M K I LL I P S

William Krasne and Megan Cody

from the

Rainbow Room

Tony Award Winner, Hamilton

Former New York Yankee and Jazz Musician

Emmy, Tony and Golden Globe Nominated Artist

LESLIE ODOM, JR.

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A chael Douglas. While waiting for him, she was telling me about The Four Seasons’ auction of the entire interior: plates, flatware, signs, tables, and more (which was held a few days before).

The prices were spectacular. Specific tables (by location) that were favored by well-known people went at a premium. Peterson’s table went for $100,000. (Did I

hear that right?) It was purchased by his former partner, Stephen Schwarzman. Someone bought Jackie Kennedy’s table for a pretty penny.

The restaurant’s sign sold for $120,000. Susan bought the only round table in the grille room along with some chairs.

Susan shared that what surprised her was the amount of chewing gum that had been stuck under many tables by

the “best of the best” over the years (ahem). Harrumph. Life goes on…

The last gawk: the local news that’s not that local. Late last month, it was announced that Gawker Media was selling six of its sites to Univision for $135 million and closing down its flagship site, Gawker. The sale and closing comes as a result of the court case in March where a jury awarded

Hulk Hogan $115 million in damages from Gawker after he sued them for running a video of him having sex with another man’s wife. Then, the court added another $25 million to the “award.”

The whole thing came as a shock to a lot of people. It’s not like the American audience doesn’t know about sex videos. Great careers were made thusly; think Paris Hil-

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A N E W P O R T F I L M S C R E E N E D B I L L C U N N I N G H A M N E W YO R K O N T H E L A W N AT O C E A N C L I F F

Christin Murphy and Chris Reeves

ton, think Kim Kardashian.

These are examples of where the only real bottom is the “bottom line.”

When Hogan brought the suit against Gawker four years ago, in 2012, few took it seriously. It looked almost like a typical publicity stunt. But then the multimillion-dollar “settlement” was announced.

The immediate speculation was that, if met, it could put Gawker out of business. That speculation is now reality.

Gawker came into existence on the Internet in 2002. It was a daily gossip sheet but with an edge that was rarely ever seen in print. Nick Denton (who created Gawker) practically 36 QUEST

Marie Bennett and Virginia Laurie

invented something that became known as Snark with a capital S. Snark was Gawker’s commodity, which was defined as: don’t hesitate from saying something nasty or ridiculing or bullying, no matter what.

Gossip, old-style.

Denton was a British journalist by training and the Brit tabloids can out-gossip any American journalist, any time.

They go right to the heart of the matter and don’t mind mucking through mud. At first, it was amusing to the audience—or, more specifically, shocking, which is often another word for amusement for a lot of people.

It seemed uncensored com-

Andrea van Beuren and Happy van Beuren

Peter and Celia Hatfield

pared to anything we were used to in print. It tapped into a cynicism of our times. That cynicism is not entirely illegitimate. Denton, you could argue, was only shining a light on it. Puncturing pomposity or highlighting hypocrisy (when it was at its best) could make you laugh. Snark was a prosperous journalistic marketing tool and Gawker was only one of its many purveyors on the web. A lot of it was witless and abusive, harkening Schadenfreude and often coming off like chronic adolescence.

It was effective, however, in drawing attention to itself in a society where people are so inundated with information

Nick Mele and Bettie Pardee

Kate Brierley, Tenley van der Wal and Jemma Craig

and experiences (of others).

A quick slap (at someone else) can perk things up. If its spotlight was shed on you, however—which it was a few times in my case— that light wasn’t so funny to read personally. (That said, it was just words and they were entirely forgettable.) Over time, after occasionally reading stupid remarks about myself, I lost interest in the site.

The Internet, however, is a fickle venue—most especially for gossip. For all I know, Gawker was already on the wane with its vast daily readership. The Internet business is tough unless you’re selling something and getting a cut

PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N

William Wooten, Chloe Farrick and Christina Malin

D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A of the gross. Otherwise, the audience is like anything in nature: it keeps moving, always looking.

After the suit was settled and we learned that Denton was going to have to sell his business to meet the verdict, we learned that Hogan had had a guardian angel in the person of Peter Thiel, the Silicon Valley billionaire investor. Thiel is famous in the financial world for his original investment in PayPal and getting in on the ground floor of a startup called Facebook. It came out that Thiel assisted Hogan and others in launching lawsuits against Gawker and Denton.

I don’t know if Thiel and

Denton knew each other, despite the fact that they were both enterprising young men in San Francisco at approximately the same time.

However, several years ago, Gawker—then in its tell-all glory—published something about Thiel being gay. It was an “outing” (as opposed to a picnic). Denton is gay and is said to be one of those people who believes all gay people of prominence should come out publicly. I don’t know if Thiel ever “came out” publicly, but his personal interests were generally known to a lot of people who knew him or knew of him.

So, maybe it wasn’t so ironic that Denton’s Gawker was

brought down by an incident that was as ticky-tacky and curbside tawdry as a lot of the edit copy he posted daily on his website. Nevertheless, I am well aware of the effort that goes into producing fresh edit copy daily and also keeping it in a style that, aside from the cynicism, is solid and effective. I could only admire Denton’s professional ability to not only create it but to move it and grow it into the media business it became. His distress sale to Univision underscores his success.

But that is New York: highly competitive in a million different ways and often highly intimidating and exasperating, especially to the younger

members of the ambitious who come here to make their ways in life. So, thinking about Hogan’s lawsuit (and the court’s $115 million order to pay) it occurred to me that, besides damaging Denton personally, the ruling may also mark a subtle change in our public consciousness.

Thiel, whatever his motivations, provided a lesson for all of us when it comes to the parameters of personal privacy.

The boy with the broom.

James M. Nederlander, the Broadway theater-owner and producer died on Monday, July 25. Known to the world as “Jimmy,” he celebrated his 94th birthday on March 31.

He leaves his wife, Charlene

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omissions, prior sale and withdrawal without notice.

Artist renderings are subject to revisions.

D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A “ S U M M E R PA R T Y ” W I T H S O U T H A M P TO N H O S P I TA L

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Nederlander, as well as his son, James L. Nederlander (also known as “Jimmy”); his daughter-in-law, Margo MacNabb Nederlander; and his two adored grandchildren.

I often saw him out at benefits and galas with his wife at times. Although he wasn’t ambulatory in his later years, he obviously liked to get out and be among friends and acquaintances. He was a man who always had a warm smile and a natural modesty 40 QUEST

Jean Shafiroff and Victor de Souza

Mark Epley and Melanie Wambold

in bearing when introduced.

And he never quit.

The Nederlanders are a major American theater family who could be compared only to the Shuberts. The Nederlanders hailed from Detroit; the Shuberts hailed from Syracuse. Before the age of radio and movies (as well as the age of electricity), theater in America was the only entertainment outside of the printed word.

By the end of the 19th century, there were hundreds of

Chuck and Ellen Scarborough

Susan Bourdea and Howard Lorber

stock companies touring the continent, where communities were often remote and hundreds of miles from major cities. Nearly everybody who had the opportunity went to see plays and concerts with the same natural interest that we have when we turn on the T.V. and (alas) the cellphone. The theater business of those years was the bedrock of the history of American celebrity.

I learned a great deal more about Nederlander in Michael

Riedel’s engaging history of Broadway: Razzle Dazzle: The Battle For Broadway. In it, the author relates a story about Nederlander’s father, David Tobias Nederlander (“D.T.”), who founded the family business when he bought the Fisher Theatre in Detroit (which the family still owns more than a century later).

Manny Azenberg, a producer working for David Merrick in those days, was traveling with the show I Can Get It For

PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N

John Wambold and Amanda Newson

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Robin Kassimir, Veronica Atkins and Joel Kassimir

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You Wholesale (where Barbra Streisand got her first big notices with a song called “Miss Marmelstein,” named for the character she was playing).

Arriving in Detroit, Azenberg paid a call to D.T. at his offices in the Fisher Theatre.

This was 1963. Azenberg walked into a scene where “a little man, shriveled up in a chair was ‘ripping the kishkas’ out of a tall man in front of him.” The tall man was crying and the little man (D.T.) was “in a high pitched nasal whine” yelling: “and you’re gonna lose your job you son of a bitch!” Also in the room: a younger man, pleading with his father: “Dad, please don’t 42 QUEST

Amy Schichtel and John Mooney

do this. He didn’t know!” The father replied with a scream, “Get him out of here!”

That younger man was D.T.’s son, Jimmy. And so the tall man left the office.

In the hallway, another son of D.T. told him not to worry because he was re-hired.

Later, Azenberg found the reason for the man’s misstep.

He had been hired as the house electrician at the Fisher Theatre and had read the theater’s meter and given the correct number of kilowatts for the month to the electric company. D.T.’s meter readers had long before followed the procedure: shave the number to save on expenses.

Judy Auchincloss

Lauren Ezersky

D.T. Nederlander had started out as a jeweler and pawnbroker. In 1912, he came upon the opportunity to buy a 99-year lease on the Detroit Opera House and took it, even though he knew nothing about operating a theater. It was taking a chance, as he put it to his son years later. Nothing ventured, nothing gained.

In this transaction, D.T. partnered with the two Shubert brothers: Lee Shubert and J.J. Shubert. They were in New York and could supply bookings for the house.

Jimmy and his four brothers and one sister grew up in the theater world in Detroit, which in those days drew all

Maryanne Horwath

Susie Franklin and Ted Conklin

the great stars of the stage and concert halls. All famous stars of the era traveled the country to play these theater circuits and famous musical revues, including the “Ziegfeld Follies,” “Earl Carroll’s Vanities,” and “George White’s Scandals.” Jimmy started working in the theater at age 7 in 1929, sweeping floors. By the late 1920s, D.T. was a successful man living with his family in a big house in Detroit with his children in private schools.

Then came the Depression, which hit the theater business hard. No money, no audience.

D.T. avoided bankruptcy, but downsizing in every way was priority. Everyone went to

PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A work, even the children. Whatever they made, they brought home to their parents. When World War II came in 1942, Jimmy joined up to become an aviator. He didn’t have the eyesight for it, however, and ended up working on playwright Moss Hart’s Winged Victory—a U.S. Army–commissioned play that raised funds and played on Broadway for a year and toured the country in 1943. I’m guessing, but that must have been where the 20-year-old Jimmy got a taste of Broadway and the Big Town. And it stayed with him

forever after.

After World War II, he got himself started in the theater business by leasing a theater in Toledo. It didn’t work out.

Then, Minneapolis and St. Paul. Again, not the spark. In the late 1950s, the U.S. Government made J.J. Shubert (Lee Shubert had died) divest himself of many properties in New York and across the country. The theater in Detroit was up for sale. D.T. bought it and put his son in charge of booking. That meant frequent trips to New York for Jimmy to look for shows.

One day in 1965, Jimmy was walking with a friend when he learned that the Palace Theatre (which had been owned by RKO) was for sale.

The friend suggested to Jimmy that he buy it. The price: $1.4 million with $400,000 down.

He went back to Detroit to tell his father. D.T. thought he was crazy but, nevertheless, he helped his son raise the money.

In August 1965, Jimmy opened the first Nederlander New York office in the Palace Theatre. It was very run down at the time, so he refurbished it. The first show for the re-

opening was Bob Fosse’s Sweet Charity starring Gwen Verdon—which featured a book by Neil Simon and music by Cy Coleman with lyrics

by Dorothy Fields. The show was a hit and ran for a year.

Jimmy thought it could have run longer, but Fosse and Verdon (who were also married) were fighting a lot “and you never knew when she was gonna show up.”

Now established in New York, Jimmy started buying theaters. Not the best houses (the Shuberts owned most of those) but one that were

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legitimate. He bought Henry Miller’s Theater from Henry Miller’s son’s widow, Kitty Miller, for $500,000. He told Riedel years later that “Mrs. Miller went right out and bought a diamond bracelet with the money.” He also started acquiring interest in other theaters including across the country.

During a career that spanned 70 years, Jimmy amassed a network of premier legitimate theaters, nine of which were on Broadway: the Brooks Atkinson, the Gershwin, the Lunt-Fontanne, the Marquis, the Minskoff, the Nederlander, the Neil Simon, the Richard Rodgers, and the Palace. Plus, there were theaters in Chicago, including the Auditorium, Bank of America, the Broadway Playhouse, the Cadillac Palace, and the Oriental. And there were theaters in Los Angeles (including the Pantages) and in London (including the Adelphi, the Al-

dwych, and the Dominion).

His first really big hit came when he was 55: Annie. It opened at the Alvin Theatre (which is now the Neil Simon Theatre) on April 21, 1977, as produced

by Mike Nichols. It ran initially for 2,377 performances and would become one of Broadway’s very first family shows. Raising money for it was not easy and Jimmy put in $150,000, which gave him ownership of 20 percent. He made more than a million from the Broadway run, with more from the three national tours and the film rights. It was also significant for the Nederlanders as a Broadway theater family. It wasn’t just the Shuberts anymore; it was also the Nederlanders.

In his long career, he produced more than one hundred of the most acclaimed Broadway musicals and plays of all time, including: Annie, Applause, La Cage aux Folles, Me and My Girl, Nine, Noises

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A Off, Peter Pan, Sweet Charity, The Will Rogers Follies, and Woman of the Year. He established some of the world’s most distinguished performing companies, which he produced and presented on Broadway. They included: the Royal Shakespeare Company’s acclaimed productions of The Life and Adventures of Nicholas Nickleby, Les Liaisons Dangereuses, Cyrano de Bergerac, and Sherlock

Holmes as well as Nureyev & Friends, the Bolshoi Ballet, and the P. Virsky’s Ukrainian State Dance Company.

He also developed the outdoor amphitheater concept as the developer of premier venues that included the New Jersey Garden State Arts Center, Pine Knob Music Theater, Merriweather Post Pavilion, and Pacific Amphitheatre.

Also, he was the decades-long operator of the Greek Theatre,

where he presented headline artists such as Tony Bennett, Judy Garland, Lena Horne, Liza Minnelli, and Frank Sinatra (to name only a few).

He was a man known in his lifelong personal and business relationships as “generous,” “loyal,” and “trusted.” In 1972, Jimmy and his friends Earl Blackwell, Gerard Oestreicher, and Arnold Weissberger founded the Theater Hall of Fame, which is still

housed in the lobby of the Gershwin Theatre. In 1973, he partnered with George Steinbrenner to purchase the New York Yankees.

The boy with the broom at age 7, sweeping the lobby of his father’s first theater in Detroit, swept his way into the world of Broadway legend—and all the while, he was beloved and admired by his friends and colleagues. It was a great, long life. u

PA R R I S H A R T MU S E U M P R E S E N T E D “ U N F I N I S H E D B U S I N E S S : PA I N T I N G S F R OM T H E 1 9 7 0 S A N D 1 9 8 0 S ” I N W AT E R M I L L

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CO R B E T T P H OTO G R A P H Y. N E T

Eaddo and Peter Kiernan

D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A PREVIEW FOR HAMPTON DE SIGNER SHOWHOUSE IN SAG HARBOR

Melanie Turner

Lauren McGrath and Suzanne McGrath

Keith O’Hea nad Lisa McMahon

April Malloy and Gary DePersia

Scott and Amanda Schneider with Paul Rinfret 52 QUEST

Andrew and Erin Gates

Barbara Glatt and Keith Baltimore

Tony Manning

Caitlin Faron, Michael Del Piero and Stuart Grannen

Cindy DeAntonio, Emily Brown and Way Way Allen

Richard and Cricket Burns

PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N

Dawn Bodenchak, Adrienne Baranoff and Nancy Pearson

D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A C I N E M A S O C I E T Y S C R E E N E D EQ U I T Y AT B A R S I X T YF I V E I N T H E R A I N B O W R O OM

Graham Hill and Celine Rattray

Sarah Megan Thomas

Kiera Chaplin and Emily Fine

Anna Gunn

Sam Roukin

Ray Liotta

Sophie von Haselberg

Richard Johnson and Jerry Brynes

L A U N C H O F J AY M C I N E R N E Y ’ S B R I G H T , P R E C I O U S D AYS I N W AT E R M I L L

Jay McInerney and Candace Bushnell 54 QUEST

Justin Ward and Irene Albright

Carol Mack

Wilbur Ross and Hilary Geary

Kim Taipale and Ivana Lowell

Dirk Wittenborn and Nina Griscom

PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N ( A B OV E ) ; PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N ( B E LO W )

Tom and Diane Tuft

The Top Doctor Is In

by Castle Connolly Top Doctors Q: Since the birth of my children I have had an unattractive bulge in the center of my tummy. My doctor said that I have diastasis of my abdominal muscles. Will exercise correct this? Are there any surgical procedures that can be done to correct this?

A: It is extremely common for women to develop a separation of the abdominal muscles after pregnancy, known as diastasis recti. This muscle separation results in a bulge of the anterior abdomen and occasionally hernias as well.

D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A N AU M K E A G D E B U T E D I TS R E N O VAT E D C H I N E S E G A R D E N IN STOCKBRIDGE, MA SSACHUSETTS

Biddy and Bob Owens with Julia Owens

Bill O’Leary and Jen Harvey

While healthy diet and lifestyle, exercise and core strengthening are always recommended, the separation of the midline muscle groups and resulting bulge often require correction.

An abdominoplasty or “tummy tuck” is a procedure that approximates the muscles in the midline in a corset-like fashion, restoring a more youthful, natural and attractive shape to the midsection. Any excess skin and fat are concurrently addressed with the muscle repair, resulting in improved core stability and a beautifully sculpted abdomen. This procedure is best performed when no further pregnancies are planned, and when one is at or close to their ideal body weight. For further information, be sure to consult with a board certified plastic surgeon for to determine if you are a good candidate for this procedure.

Tyler Weld and Phil Deely

David Foster and Marianne Jorgensen with Abby and Peter Coffin

Adam R. Kolker, M.D., F.A.C.S. 710 Park Avenue New York, New York 10021 www.kolkrmd.com Double Board Certified in Plastic Surgery and General Surgery

Top Doctors Make a Difference

0 0 www.castleconnolly.com QUEST

Bridget Fawcett and Pip Deely

Sarah Eustis and Shawn de Gunzburg

RO G E R FA R R I N G TO N P H OTO G R A P H Y

Cutting the Ribbon

America’s Top Doctors at Your Fingertips

Castle Connolly Medical Ltd.

Top Doctors Make A Difference

Do you want “second best” healthcare for you or your family? Of course not, but how do you find the best?

Castle Connolly Medical Ltd., founded by a medical school board chair and president, has spent more than 20 years surveying physicians to answer that question. We truly know top doctors do make a difference!

Individual Premium Membership at CastleConnolly.com • $4.99 per month • User friendly mobile platform • Access top primary care physicians and specialists across the nation • Search by insurance plans accepted by each doctor

Castle Connolly’s database of more than 46,000 of America’s Top Doctors’ profiles doctors across more than 60 specialties and subspecialties can be accessed at www.CastleConnolly.com.

The site is available on browser and mobile platforms where consumers like you view more than 35 million physician profiles each year.

New Individual Premium Membership plan users receive a 30% discount on all Castle Connolly consumer guides. The plan also allows users to access information on Castle Connolly’s Partnership for Excellence Hospitals.

Connect with us on: Physicians do not and cannot pay to be included as a Castle Connolly Top Doctor.

D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A ANIMAL RE SCUE FUND OF THE HAMPTON’S “BOW WOW MEOW BALL” IN WAINSCOTT

John Krehbiel and Karen Gray-Krehbiel

Peter Duchin

58 QUEST

Sara Davison, Alana McCarthy and Emilia Saint-Amand

Gigi Mahon and Lisa McCarthy

Patty Raynes and Debbie Loeffler

Larry and Jane Scheinfeld with Peter Torino

Tom and Clelia Zacharias

Edward Pierrepont, Morgan McCaw and Matt McCarthy

PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N

Nicole Miller and Christy Ferer

Prime West Village 3 Bedroom, 3.5 Bath with Terrace Empire State Building & skyline views from every room. Chef’s kitchen.

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Trophy 12 Room Duplex Penthouse on The Hudson

New on market. Grand 7 room with direct Central Park views from the LR, library & MBR. 3BRs + library, 3.5 baths. CAC/heat. 50% financing.

Full service co-op. $6.4M. Web 15173987. James White 212.452.4445

Oversized wrap terrace with private pool. Water views from every major room. Eat-in kitchen.

1 Riverside Park, white glove condo w amenities. The complete offering terms are in an offering plan available from sponsor file CD13-0089. $21M. Web 15168505. Alexa Lambert 212.452.4408

The Right Broker Makes All the Difference.

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A “A P O L L O I N T H E H A M P TO N S ” AT T H E C R E E K S I N E A ST H A M P TO N

Jonelle Procope and Robert Kraft

John McEnroe and Don Johnson

Olmo Schnabel and Kelly Meyer

Darren Walker and Alma Powell 60 QUEST

Katie Holmes and Georgina Chapman

Ray Kelly and Donny Deutsch

Fran Lebowitz and Ron Perelman

Marie-Josée Kravis

Jack Nicholson

Harold and Emily Ford

Maya Henry, Jon Bon Jovi and Azteca Henry

David Foster and Claire Mercuri

PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N

Ciara

IT SEEMS LIKE YESTERDAY 62 QUEST

H A R RY B E N S O N

NO DOUBT THE word “unique” was created for Mary McFadden. No one has a more unique style—subtle and not-so-subtle—as Mary. Her sense of classism and the bold use of unexpected color is truly her own. That to me is evident in the photograph shown here, taken at her New York apartment

in the early 1970s. To me it sums up the dramatic persona that is fashion designer Mary McFadden.

Her hand-painted Fortuny pleated evening gowns and her hand-painted Trapunto-quilted jackets still turn heads at charity balls from New York City to Palm Beach.

John Fairchild, the genius behind Woman’s Wear Daily, told me that no one, even in the Paris couture circle, could match Mary’s unmistakable fashion sense.

Her many awards, exhibitions, and accolades would fill this column twice over. Her private life would make a film to rival Gone with the Wind— Vivien Leigh or Angelina Jolie would be the prefect star.

Mary still causes a stir to this day when she enters a room—as elegant and regal as always. Heads turn.

People nod. That is staying power others only dream of having. ◆ This spread: The dramatic and unique Mary McFadden at home in the early 1970s.

SEPTEMBER 2016 63

TA K I

PIP, PIP, HOORAY

This page, clockwise from left: Recently engaged Pippa Middleton and James Matthews; Pippa holding her sister’s train at Kate’s wedding to Prince William; the two sisters.

THE BRITS ARE BIG on weddings, and Pippa is getting hitched sometime this autumn, or maybe later on, when the English weather is at its best. If any Quest readers are not familiar with Pippa, she’s the sister of the commoner who is married to Prince William, son of Prince Charles, 64 QUEST

who will one day be King of England.

That fact alone makes the upcoming wedding ceremony a tabloid dream, and no one does it better than Brit tabloids.

Pippa Middleton is engaged to a hedge-fund manager—naturally—James Matthews, and he seems a good sort, not

too greedy like some of ours. The younger sister of the Duchess of Cambridge now faces the critical eye of the entire country, snobbery being the oxygen that fuels British life in general, and the upper classes in particular.

The first thing that was reported about

TA K I

This page, clockwise from top left: The happy couple; Pippa’s engagement ring; special editions of Hello from the royal wedding; both Pippa and James enjoy sports.

the bridegroom was his vast wealth, as usually exaggerated by the media in order to get the envious types up and at ’em.

It sells newspapers and concentrates the minds of those who would rather protest about the inequities of wealth than wish the happy couple a long life. What has also been reported, but mostly ignored by the jealous, is the fact that the bridegroom’s father started up the greasy pole as a coalminer, as did the bride’s maternal grandfather. Eventually he became a hotel owner—not exactly a rags to riches ascent —but nevertheless a millionaire.

Now as everyone knows millionaires are at present a dime a dozen, with Hillary and Bill leading the pack of those who have never held a proper job and yet have raked in hundreds of millions by speaking to students and Wall Street types. Matthews senior and Middleton senior both started very poor and through hard work have become rich. A marriage to the House of Windsor has also helped, and now the two families of similar background will be united. Hooray, time for a drink, as our English cousins like to say.

Over on this side, a rags to riches story is celebrated like no other. It is the basis of American capitalism, the difference between a European who sees a Ferrari and wants the government to confiscate it, and an American who tells himself one day he will purchase the exact same automobile.

Whereas Americans look at Downton Abbey as a costume drama and revel in its antiquated snobbishness, the Brits see it

as social commentary, and nothing brings out their inner Dowager Countess of Grantham more than a social faux pas. I sat next to the creator of the show once at a private St. James’s club to which I belong. Lord Fellows, as he has now become, could not have been friendlier but he was as snobby as they come. He told me that he was very proud that his wife was lady in waiting to Princess Michael of Kent, a real hustler and phony, so I asked him if he was bragging or complaining. It ended our brief and pleasant chat.

Celebrity nuptials are far too easy prey for the gimlet-eyed. And nothing escapes the aristocracy, especially when a coalminer’s son marries a coalminer’s daughter who has married into British royalty. Everything will be examined as if a murder hinged on the details: the invitations, the wedding list, the hymns to be sung, the crystals, and the dance routine following the ceremony. In fact, while poring over these and other smaller details, people will even stop discussing the weather.

Or Brexit. Even football. Thank God for Pippa and her hubby.

Needless to say—and we’ve all seen Four Weddings and a Funeral—everyone has their pet hates, and I can’t wait to see people wince when some toastmaster bellows in unposh English, “Will everyone be upstanding for the bride and groom!” Mind you, there will be plenty of opportunities for those of impeccable credentials to die a little, as when some of the Matthews-Middleton relatives have

a drink too many and let go. Pippa has an uncle, Gary Goldsmith, who endured a tabloid sting in his Spanish villa where a large stash of cocaine was discovered. The villa’s name was Bang-Bang. A Matthews younger brother is a toe-curling embarrassment because he’s a regular in a reality program. I can see the steam rising from Prince Philip’s ears.

No best man has been as yet named, and as we all know, the best man’s speech following the ceremony is an English tradition like Trooping the Color. I have attended many weddings in the English countryside in my long life, and the best man’s speech is more often than not in very bad taste. Once in Italy I had to get up on the stage and warn the best man to stop or else. The Italian parents were not happy to hear about their daughter’s promiscuity, but thank God their English was poor. For some strange reason I don’t think this will happen in Pippa’s wedding.

What a celebrity wedding does is add to the gaiety of a nation, especially for the middle classes who sniff out every signifier of social standing. The truly upper classes do not give a damn, and the lower classes ditto. What is certain is that the wedding will be sold to Hello or some other rubbish magazine, and the happy couple will leave on their honeymoon secure that their bank account will have improved by close to a million pounds. Not a bad deal when you think of it. u For more Taki, visit takimag.com.

SEPTEMBER 2016 65

LI F OFO ES DT& Y LLEI F&ESTY F OOD LE

INSTAGRAM CONSIDERED

BY ALEX HITZ

This page: Alex’s aunt Hollace Shaw—Aunt Holly—was a coloratura soprano who found fame as a radio star of the 1930s and ’40s.

In a world long before Instagram, she was an original fashion

66 QUEST

count how many times I heard that word uttered this place or that—including more than two dozen mentions in one day alone in the New York Times—and the whopping total was more than 300. That’s just what I observed, and remembered to count, in one week. Now, doesn’t that seem like a lot?

My aunt, Hollace Shaw, was a radio singing star in the 1930s and ’40s. Born

in Fresno, California, in 1913, Holly was a pretty blonde, an ingénue, a coloratura soprano with an unusual nearly two-octave range. She came to New York in 1929 to attend Juilliard. At school, Holly and her range were discovered by Jerome Kern, a superstar Broadway composer of his day, and he got her a radio job on Phil Spitalny’s “The Hour of Charm,” circa 1935. She sang and played a char-

A N D R E D E D I E N E S ; H E R B E RT G E H R

ON BOATS, AT TABLES, on courts, courses, and beaches, as this summer wound down from East Hampton to Nantucket to Maine, there’s but one word that cropped up, endlessly: Instagram. To the point that, for me, it became distracting. Granted, Instagram isn’t exactly new, but somehow its siren song has recently reached a shrill crescendo. For one specimen week in August, I decided I would

CO U RTE S Y O F A LE X H I T Z ;

icon—or “influencer.”

Left to right: Great American Songbook doyens Jerome Kern (who wrote “All the Things You Are” for Holly), Dorothy Fields, and George Gershwin; the great Fred Astaire, one of Holly’s close friends, who delivered her eulogy; the maestro Arturo Toscanini, one of Holly’s collaborators and friends.

acter called “Vivian,” an ingénue. The gimmick for that program was that it was a 22-piece—voluptuous, to be sure—allgirl orchestra. “The Hour of Charm” was hosted by Arlene Francis, who later became television famous on “What’s My Line,” and who took a liking to Holly and introduced her around town to the Broadway and radio giants of the day. All of a sudden, Holly was on the scene, on fire, and her career soared. Little Holly Shaw from Fresno came to call Toscanini, the Gershwins, Cole Porter, and Dorothy Fields collaborators and friends.

In the 1930s, the big radio song hits were often take-out numbers from Broadway shows, and Broadway flourished, mounting literally hundreds of productions a year. Jerome Kern, who was by then perhaps more than a friend, wrote new songs for a whole show for Holly, 1938’s Very Warm for May. Although the show only lasted 16 performances, Holly’s take-out number, “All the Things You Are,” tailored specifically to that two-octave range, became an eternal standard recorded by countless others in what we now call “The Great American Songbook.” I’m sure you know it.

In the early ’40s, Aunt Holly, redone from stem to stern, transitioned from “ingénue soprano” to “glamorous singing star” with help from Norman Norrell, Maurice Rentner, and Elizabeth Arden. She was tapped to be the star of CBS’s biggest primetime Saturday night show, “Saturday Night Serenade.” She was white-hot. If she wasn’t at fittings

or coiffeurs, she spent hours each day signing photographs for her fans. Soap brands, dress lines, and perfumes asked her to endorse them. Millions of listeners enjoyed her for almost a decade every Saturday night at eight o’clock when, inconceivable as it may seem now, generations of families sat around the radio listening for hours at a time.

America loved big bands like Glenn Miller, Tommy Dorsey, or Artie Shaw live from cosmopolitan capitals and nightclubs, and comedy shows like “Amos and Andy” (another jolt to today’s sensibilities), “Fibber McGhee and Molly,” Jack Benny, or Edgar Bergen. They couldn’t get enough of detective stories like “The Adventures of Sam Spade” or “The Shadow.” FDR’s “Fireside Chats,” with crackling avuncular warmth broadcast to the mass bleakness of the Great Depression, were the first regularly scheduled messages from any president.

The lives of Americans were succinctly timed around favorite shows, and more than anything that had ever united the country on such scale, radio was a way of life, a Golden Age. And Hollace Shaw was a prime-time star.

But nothing gold can stay. By the late 1940s and early 1950s, radio was a thing of the past. Television changed the world.

Just as when silent movies changed to talkies, few stars made the transition.

Aunt Holly, the “glamorous singing star,” retired before the age of 40 to oblivion and became a fragile and defeated Beverly Hills housewife prone to the

“lying-down disease.” She only went out at night. In the brilliant sun of California, Aunt Holly’s last two decades were spent inside, in bed, in shadows. She died at age 62.

What I remember most about her as a child, as the “natural look” of the ’70s took hold, was her actressy appearance: the platinum color of her hair in its lavish up-do and her lacquered red nails stuck in the 1940s, when she was in her prime. She was always carefully turned out in shoulder-padded evening suits and heavy diamond brooches. She smelled like Jungle Gardenia, for whom she had been a pitch-woman at some point. She wore satin ankle-strap shoes and nylons with seams in the back. When we flew from Atlanta to her funeral at All Saints Episcopal Church on Santa Monica Boulevard in 1976, Fred Astaire, one of her best friends from the old days, gave the eulogy.

So, while the proliferation of time-suckers like Instagram and others is a definite way of the world and keeps us “connected,” it suddenly seemed relevant to tell you the story of Aunt Holly, who connected with millions and millions of people for many, many years yet died an unknown recluse. And while the connectivity through electronic devices seems really real, I guess it’s safe to say that it’s not really that real. You’ll make your own decisions…but I’m off to post this fab photo of Aunt Holly from the height of her glory on my Instagram. #dontputallyoureggsinonebasket. u SEPTEMBER 2016 67

QUEST Three-strand coral

Fresh Finds

nesting necklace with

BY DA N I E L C A P P E L LO AND ELIZABETH MEIGHER

coral rose and gold clasp.

Price upon request. Sorab & Roshi: 30 West Putnam Ave., Greenwich, Conn.

SEPTEMBER IS CALLING, and it’s not just about back to school. As summer waves roll into September days and nights back at the office and on the social circuit, you’ll need some new threads to carry you through. We’ve stocked up on some of our favorite labels, like day looks from J.McLaughlin and evening looks from Escada.

We’ve also thought of some wheels for the road in case you’re looking for an escape—and are packing things up with a smart new weekend bag by Johnnie-O.

Bold patterns and powerful color palettes define the collection of Sevda London scarves, including this printed silk British Tulip Garden Rose scarf. $270 at sevdalondon.com.

Skip into this season in J.McLaughlin’s cashmere Skip sweater ($245) and Nicola skirt in Catalina cloth ($155). Available in stores or at jmclaughlin.com.

Boot up in time for autumn with the bootie in seasonal saddle: Stuart Weitzman’s Tipico in Saddle Old West Calf. $595 at stuartweitzman.com.

68 QUEST

GLOBAL CONNECTIONS. LOCAL EXPERTISE. Your buyers could be your neighbor in New York City or on the other side of the world, but our local agents have the tools to find them either way… reach matters.

Visit us at elliman.com/offices for a full list of locations.

KNOWN GLOBALLY. LOVED LOCALLY.

With offices across the Hamptons, and 6,000 agents nationwide plus the international scale and scope of Knight Frank Residential, the Douglas Elliman network reaches across 59 countries and 6 continents...

Chances are, your buyer has worked with us before.

© 2016 DOUGLAS ELLIMAN REAL ESTATE.

EQUAL HOUSING OPPORTUNITY.

Fresh Finds

Put a swing on it with Vhernier’s Swing ring in white gold

Eyewear maestro Robert Marc offers a punch of purple in

and diamonds.

this stylish set of timeless shades, his Style

$29,000. Vhernier:

919 in orchid. Visit robertmarc.com for

783 Madison Ave.

pricing and a full list of retailers.

(646.343.9551) or 55 Wall St. (646.343.9552).

Bulgari’s limited-edition Serpenti Forever handbag in multicolor python skin and brass light gold–plated Serpenti head colsure in raspberry agate and onyx. $6,550 at bulgari.com.

Shine bright in Oscar de la Renta’s multi-metallic bold double-loop crystal earrings. $425 at Lord & Taylor.

On Friday, September 30, Tony and Grammy Award–winning performer Leslie Odom, Jr., kicks off “LIVE! from the Rainbow Room,” a new series of intimate live performances in this storied setting. Visit rainbowroom.com for full series.

Treat yourself—or a friend—to a deliciously irresistible box of macarons from French favorite Ladurée: 398 West Broadway or laduree.com.

70 QUEST

What’s black and white and simply classic? This Escada Fall-Winter 2016 gown. $1,775 at Escada New York, 212.755.2200.

Willow Green Farm - The quintessential country estate. Absolutely breathtaking ten acres protected by hundreds of acres of adjoining conservancy. Stunning 19th Century Colonial perfectly restored and carefully expanded. Visually stunning living space with quarter-sawn oak floors, incredible millwork, wide crown moldings and raised paneling. Separate Guest/Staff Quarters. Tennis Court. Salt-water Swimming Pool. Pool House. Antique six stall barn. Former Dressage Arena. $5,750,000

Folie du Lac - Gated drive with an allee of Linden trees. Over eight acres overlooking a pristine lake. European-inspired country house.

Originally built after World War II with materials imported from old French estates. Meticulously renovated by noted architect-designer David Easton. 18th Century paneling from Normandy, detailed millwork, speckled mirrors, French doors and exquisite floors. Wonderful for sophisticated entertaining and easy everyday living. $1,950,000

Vermont In Westchester -

Monet’s Pond - The perfect setting overlooking a crystal woodland pond surrounded by Weeping willows, pockets of Iris and cattails. Landscaping rivaling a botanical garden. Over five acres in Bedford’s foremost Stone Hill Road estate area. Ivy-covered French Country House with classic architecture and spectacular pond views. Cherry Paneled Library with Fireplace. Four Bedrooms. Lovely dining terrace, perfect for alfresco entertaining. Sparkling Pool at water’s edge. Easy access to the Bedford Riding Lanes. $1,895,000

Half-mile long gravel driveway through fields and stone walls to a stunning private, secure, and quiet country compound.

Set in the heart of estate area on forty three pastoral acres of lawn and fields sited to take full advantage of the spectacular countryside. House and cottage built on 19th century barn frames purchased in Maine. Zublin-built, five stall barn.

Overlooking Holly Stream. Heart of North Salem horse country. Multiple pastures with run-in sheds. Perfect for the avid equestrian. $4,399,000

A Bedford Classic - Over one acre in a desirable family neighborhood. On the Riverfront Moments to Bedford Village, classic Country Colonial with hardwood floors and two fireplaces. Traditional floorplan with sun-filled rooms.

Formal Living and Dining Rooms. Beautiful Kitchen. Private Master Suite.

Three additional Family Bedrooms. First Floor Guest Suite with Sitting Room and Bath. Central air and generator. Bedford Village Elementary. $975,000

(914) 234-9234

Absolutely captivating setting overlooking the pristine waters of the Stone Hill River. Sophisticated Shingle Colonial with fabulous views, extensive millwork, French doors, built-ins, hardwood floors and high ceilings. Great Room with Fireplace and doors out to rear deck. Four acres with Weeping Willow, Dogwoods, Hydrangeas and Peonies. Fabulous location next to horse farm and just moments to Bedford Village. $995,000

493 BEDFORD CENTER RD, BEDFORD HILLS, NY SPECIALIZING IN THE UNUSUAL FOR OVER 60 YEARS

WWW.GINNEL.COM

Fresh Finds Get out of town with Johnnie-O’s navy Weekender bag in waxed canvas and leather with contrast zipper tape and interior and exterior pockets. $225 at johnnie-o.com.

Shop Scully & Scully for this collection of American Ducks European crystal double old-fashioneds, engraved with multi-layered detail. $195 for set of 4 at scullyandscully.com.

Count on Rémy Martin XO for a distinguished blend of floral, fruity, and spicy aromas with a velvet texture and opulent density.

Visit remymartin.com It’s time

for retailers.

to upgrade what your wrist is wearing with Rolex’s 40-mm. Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona in stainless steel with engraved black ceramic bezel. $12,400. Visit rolex.com for more.

Step into fall in Ralph Lauren: tan cashmere windowpane top coat ($4,995) and sport coat ($3,495), brown cashmere pin dot neck tie ($250), cashmere trouser ($1,295), and brown pin dot dress shirt ($895), all at select Ralph Lauren stores.

Cooler weather calls for a cool pair of shoes, like the Traveler by Belgian Shoes in denim canvas with burgundy trim. $440 at belgianshoes.com.

Powerful, agile, and utterly distinctive, the F-Type is a true Jaguar sports car that’s ready to pounce with supercharged engines.

Customize your own, beginning from $61,400, at jaguarusa.com.

72 QUEST

KNOWN GLOBALLY. LOVED LOCALLY. MANHATTAN | BROOKLYN | LONG ISLAND | THE HAMPTONS | WESTCHESTER | GREENWICH | ASPEN | LOS ANGELES | PALM BEACH

LEDGEWOOD-ON-THE-HUDSON Hyde Park,NY | $5,650,000 | Set amid the grand historic mansions along the Hudson River, historic Ledgewood provides the perfect respite from a busy life, just 80 miles north of New York City. Beautifully sited overlooking the river, the 7-bedroom Colonial exudes both sophistication and comfort while showcasing spectacular views throughout the masterfully renovated interior and sunlit terraces. A pool and hot tub, pool house featuring a kitchenette and bedroom suite, and a lighted tennis court add to the spectacular 9-acre setting. In the heart of the scenic Hudson Valley, this remarkable estate is convenient to all area attractions including FDR’s Springwood and the Vanderbilt Mansion. Web# 4627302

MARGARET HARRINGTON

LIC. ASSOC. R.E. BROKER O 914.232.3700 | C 914.572.7395 83 Katonah Avenue, Katonah, NY 10536 margaret.harrington@elliman.com

FOR A COMPLETE LIST OF PROPERTIES, VISIT ELLIMAN.COM 83 KATONAH AVENUE,KATONAH, NY 914.232.3700. | © 2016 DOUGLAS ELLIMAN REAL ESTATE. ALL MATERIAL PRESENTED HEREIN IS INTENDED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY. WHILE, THIS INFORMATION IS BELIEVED TO BE CORRECT, IT IS REPRESENTED SUBJECT TO ERRORS, OMISSIONS, CHANGES OR WITHDRAWAL WITHOUT NOTICE. ALL PROPERTY INFORMATION, INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO SQUARE FOOTAGE, ROOM COUNT, NUMBER OF BEDROOMS AND THE SCHOOL DISTRICT IN PROPERTY LISTINGS ARE DEEMED RELIABLE, BUT SHOULD BE VERIFIED BY YOUR OWN ATTORNEY, ARCHITECT OR ZONING EXPERT. EQUAL HOUSING OPPORTUNITY.

Fresh Finds

Make the transition from summer to fall with an enchanting escape at Ocean House, Rhode Island’s AAA Five-Diamond and Forbes Five-Star resort. To reserve, call 888.552.2588.

Sweet Water Decor’s style combines modern simplicity with a wink of glamour, like this Eyelash Dreamer makeup bag. $20 at sweetwaterdecor.com.

David Webb’s dazzling Star rings in brilliant-cut diamonds and 18-kt. gold come in black, blue, and red enamel finishes. $23,000 each. David Webb: 942 Madison Ave., 212.421.3030.

Introduce an interesting element of ebonized ash at home with this Levi 3-Drawer nightstand by Maison 55 for Resource Decor. $1,947 at resourcedecor.com.

Designer duo Veronica Beard opens at 988 Madison Avenue, giving us good reason to stop in for this silk floral Teagan ruched side midi dress ($650) and Asa ribbed Put a fashionable foot forward in Manolo Blahnik’s Kahikalow shoes in black suede. $1,195 at Bergdorf Goodman.

74 Q U E S T

cashmere turtelneck ($450).

atmosphere for enjoyment Harry Bertoia’s environment for sound

bent, cast & forged tHe Jewelry of Harry Bertoia

Through SepTemBer 25, 2016

museum of arts and design Jerome and Simona Chazen Building / 2 ColumBuS CirCle, nYC / madmuSeum.org Support for Atmosphere for Enjoyment: Harry Bertoia’s Environment for Sound and Bent, Cast & Forged: The Jewelry of Harry Bertoia is generously provided by Nanette L. Laitman; Kay Bucksbaum; KLM Royal Dutch Airlines, the Official Airline of MAD; Joy and Allan Nachman; Kim and Al Eiber; Siegelson, New York; The Rotasa Foundation; Wright; and Barbara Fleischman.

MAD gratefully acknowledges the in-kind support of Knoll, Inc. Bertoia Barn, Barto, PA, 1975. Photo by and courtesy of Beverly H. Twitchell.

AUDAX

SEPTEMBER MARKS the climax of the United States Tennis Open at Flushing Meadows, but this summer also saw another historic tennis milestone. On July 23rd, the venerable Seabright Lawn Tennis and Cricket Club in Rumson hosted the Rockaway Hunt’s visiting Long Island team on the 100th anniversary of their sporting rivalry.

Lawn tennis in this country started in the fall of 1875, when a tennis set was imported from England by the now defunct Staten Island Cricket & Tennis Club for installation on their grounds.

When this new apparatus reached the customs officials in the Port of New York, they did not know just how it should be classified, so it was admitted duty free!

Only a few months after this, the residents of Seabright became interested in 76 QUEST

the game, and placed orders for equipment. On July 25, 1878, the first formal meeting of the Seabright Tennis Club was held at the residence of Mr. Robert Rutherford.

Seabright Club house architect James Renwick (1818-1895), was one of the foremost architects in the United States, responsible for the design of St. Patrick’s Cathedral and Grace Church in New York, as well as the Smithsonian and the Corcoran Gallery in Washington, D.C. The Seabright Club house, though slightly altered from the original Renwick design, has survived as a rare example of the shingle-style casino-club house, a type of building which functioned as a gathering place for social activities and recreation. In 1992, it was designated by the Department of the Interior as a

National Historic Landmark.

The Rockaway Hunting Club, organized in 1878, is the oldest country club in the United States—although originally not a country club in today’s sense. Its focus was on the horse, especially fox hunting and steeplechase racing. Rockaway’s early fame came from polo, and its longtime rivalry with Meadowbrook on Long Island. The Rockaway team won national championships in 1901 and 1902. Today, the club features a recently renovated seaside links with seven spectacular water holes, 18 lawn tennis courts, and seven har-tru courts.

The Seabright-Rockaway Hunt match dates to 1916, by far the oldest continuous inter-Club tennis match in the country, and has been a sterling example of amateur sport for 100 years. u

CO U RTE S Y O F S E A B R I G H T L A W N T E N N I S A N D C R I C K E T C LU B

THE OLDEST MATCH

This page, clockwise from top left: Contemporary view of the Seabright Lawn Tennis and Cricket Club (SLTCC) clubhouse; the rivalry between the Rockaway Hunting Club (RHC) and SLTCC goes back 100 years; the 2016 Masters RHC-SLTCC; watching the tournament at Seabright, 1920; Wilmer Allison and Dick Sears, 1926; mens’s doubles finals at SLTCC, 1923; Seabright champions of yore; Wilmer Allison and John Van Ryn being awarded the Seabright Cup, 1931. Opposite page: The 100th RHC-SLTCC Match on July 23, 2016.

T R AV E L

A CITY’S CROWN JEWEL IS REBORN

BY ELIZABETH STRIBLING

CO U RTE S Y O F T H E R I T Z PA R I S

MY HEART LEAPT WITH joy back in June as I entered the fabled Ritz Paris, on the storied Place Vendôme, after the hotel’s four-year-long renovation. Having been an annual visitor to the Ritz from 1973 until 2003, when I was lucky to move into an apartment of my own in Paris, the Ritz was always my Parisian home away from home. Would it be destroyed? Could it be modernized enough to compete with the new Shangri-La, the freshly groomed Four Seasons Hotel George V, or the updated and totally chic Plaza Athénée? With a huge sigh of relief, the answer is yes on all counts. The soul of the Ritz—with its Belle Époque grand-hôtel allure—remains exactly the same. Indeed, it is fresher than ever, and more sparkling with light, but its charm remains completely intact. The grand dowager has had a facelift that has rendered it more youthful and beautiful than

ever. From the warm welcome of a battery of doormen, up the sweeping entry steps, through the gleaming turnstile, and onto the scarlet carpet of the Ritz, you know you are in a luxurious haven of another era. The Ritz remains an oasis of refined opulence like a mirage in the desert; it shimmers as if in a dream.

French-born architect and designer Thierry Despont has managed to keep the soul of the Ritz unchanged while giving it a complete renovation. The rooms are now equipped with Wi-Fi, air conditioning, and a concealed flat television, but the gold-plated swan bath fixtures remain in place, polished This page: A sweeping view into the lobby of the Ritz Paris. Opposite page: Pulling up at the Ritz Paris among the limestone arcades of the storied Place Vendôme, one of the most dramatic squares in Paris.

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T R AV E L

Above: The night begins and ends at Bar Hemingway. Cole Porter is said to have composed “Begin the Beguine” here, and F. Scott Fitzgerald is known to have had a favorite seat. Ernest Hemingway and Gary Cooper made it the epicenter of their life in Paris—and now, so can you, especially with a cocktail by world-famous head barman Colin Peter Field. Below: A view of the Grand Jardin at the Ritz Paris.

to perfection. The long entrance gallery with a perch over the garden looks like it did before, but the sitting area for coffee or afternoon tea has been baptized the Salon Proust, in recognition of the famous author who lived at the Ritz in his last years.

Today, tea is no longer a mere cup but a complete service of gourmet high-tea savories and sweets, with or without a coupe de Champagne. Crumpets are served with butters in all sorts of exotic flavors. A reservation for this sumptuous tea is a must.

Bar Vendôme, to the left of the entry, is a replica of the red-velvet cocoon of yesteryear. Today, black-and-white photos of such famous guests as Charlie Chaplin, Jean Cocteau, and Grace Kelly adorn the walls. At lunch, le tout Paris has returned, along with a bevy of American families and fashion celebrities. The adjoining garden has been transformed into two glass conservatories with retractable roofs that allow for en-plein-air dining all year long. The Bar Vendôme offers a classic French brasserie menu, while the property’s haute gastronomic restaurant, L’Espadon, features truly epicurean cooking in the tradition of Auguste Escoffier, the famous French chef who originally 80 QUEST

directed the Ritz’s celebrated kitchens. The main room of L’Espadon is inspired by 18th-century France, with pale boiseries and a sky-blue ceiling out of a Watteau painting.

As in former days, a long shopping gallery joins the Vendôme side of the Ritz with the rue Cambon. The vitrines have historically offered a dazzling choice of diamond and gold jewelry, couture fashion, or more affordable stationery, socks, and glitzy costume jewelry. Prices varied from a trinket at $20 to far heftier

Above: “At the Ritz,” Marcel Proust once observed, “nobody pushes you.” Good French manners continue to reign at the appropriately named Proust Salon, where guests enjoy high tea among plush armchairs and rare books. Open daily from 2:30–6 p.m., the Salon Proust is a

CO U RTE S Y O F T H E R I T Z PA R I S

perfect spot for indulging in sweet and savory tea treats. Below: Stay in shape at the in-house Ritz Club Paris, with its famous and luxurious pool.

sums. Today, the fabled window-shopping is all de luxe, with one couture dress or one necklace displayed as a stand-alone piece. It is simpler and more refined, though no less expensive.

These display cases now overlook a beautifully landscaped interior garden designed by the renowned French landscape artist Jean Mus. Walking the corridor is a true feast for the eyes.

At the end of this dazzling promenade lies the fabled Bar Hemingway and the new Ritz Bar. Hemingway adored the Ritz.

As before, the world’s most famous barman, Colin Peter Field, presides over this veritable kingdom of cocktails. The menu of custom drinks is staggering, with a “clean” Dirty Martini among the myriad of choices. Today, a collection of Hemingway memorabilia—from typewriters and old photos to hunting trophies—graces the walls and tables of this intimate space, which is once again alive with a happy buzz.

Just next door, the newly opened Ritz Bar is a small lacquered box of a space that seems out of Art Deco times. With a menu of French bistro fare, it offers snacks or meals all day long, and is a relaxed but very chic alternative to the more grand spaces at the new Ritz.

In 1922, F. Scott Fitzgerald wrote a novella called The Diamond as Big as the Ritz—an apt title, especially for today, given that the Ritz Paris glitters more brightly than ever. A drink or meal at the Ritz may very well set you back the price of a diamond, but, for once, splurge and indulge yourself. You won’t regret it. u The Ritz Paris: 15 Place Vendôme, 75001 Paris; +33 1.43.16.30.30 or ritzparis.com.

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OPEN HOUSE

MELANIE DELMAN (president of Lila Delman Real Estate International) is at the helm of the Rhode Island–based firm that covers this spectacular state, with six offices that stretch from the capital to the storied coastline. She has ingratiated her clients as they become members of their communities—a narrative that resembles the Gilded Age. To that end, she has introduced “Lila’s Lifestyle,” which serves as an introduction to the scene: an effort to assist her clients based on their interests and lifestyles.

Lila Delman Real Estate International’s stable of properties—which is as broad as it is rich—includes “Ocean Lawn” at 51 Cliff Avenue in Newport, Rhode Island. It is, ultimately, a property that perfectly fits the description of a wonderful American lifestyle: it has great 82 QUEST

history as well as the flexibility to accommodate a great family compound.

It is sited on 6.7 acres of glorious grounds with 515 feet of frontage on the Atlantic Ocean. Legendary Boston firm Peabody & Stearns constructed the brick manor house with a “Queen Anne” exterior and graceful, well-proportioned rooms in 1889.

Betty Parke Firestone and her husband, Harvey S. Firestone, Jr., moved to “Ocean Lawn” in the 1950s. Betty was known as one of the best-dressed women in America. At Ocean Lawn, she perfected the art of living well. Windows were fitted with handmade shutters; drapes were made by Scalamandré; and even the entry gates and lights were custom-made in France.

On either side of the entry hall is a

“his and hers” library. (His is a masculine retreat in mellow oak. Hers is an elegant enclave of 18th-century English pine.) Facing the Atlantic Ocean are the ocean salon and dining room, plus a spacious sunroom for more casual entertaining. A luxurious master suite (plus six other master bedrooms with private baths) can be reached via a gracious, six-foot-wide staircase.

Outside, beyond the awning-covered terrace, are acres of lawn featuring a pool.

Spectacular views of the ocean abound.

Entrances on three avenues allow for easy access to the many sporting, cultural, and social pleasures of Newport. u For more information, contact Melanie Delman at 401.284.4820 or melanie.delman@liladelman.com.

CO U RTE S Y O F L I L A D E L M A N R E A L E S TATE

NEWPORT’S NEW GILDED AGE

This page: Scenes from “Ocean Lawn” in Newport, Rhode Island—which is on the market with Lila Delman Real Estate International for $15 million. This gem is situated on 6.7 acres bordering the Atlantic Ocean. Opposite page: The gardens are as gracious as the interiors; Melanie Delman has inherited the initiative—and expertise—of her mother, who founded Lila Delman Real Estate International (inset).

QUADJOBS

QuadJobs Co-founders Andra Newman (left), Betsy O’Reilly, and Bridie Loverro believe connecting New York City employers with talented local college students who

BIG STARTUP ON CAMPUS

BY BRIDIE LOVERRO 84 QUEST

ON A SUNNY DAY in June, a week when newly minted college graduates are taking their first steps into real life, my QuadJobs co-founders Betsy O’Reilly and Andra Newman have just returned from the NACE (National Association of Colleges and Employers) conference in Chicago, where they’ve connected with higher education and Career Service professionals from around the country. We’re catching up at our office, steps away from Greenwich Avenue, eating lunch around the pingpong table that’s served as a communal desk since we launched QuadJobs in October 2014. On the walls surrounding us hang brightly colored University pennants—in our early days, Betsy made a habit of hanging one each time a new college joined the QuadJobs platform. It was a great day when we realized we’d run out of wall space.

Talk to any college Career Services or Financial Aid administrator, and they’ll tell you how critical it is that their students find

T R I S H A E S T I LL

need income is “a win-win.”

T R I S H A E S T I LL

TRENDING ON QUADJOBS:

opportunities to work during school, how desperately both the income and experience is needed. Two-thirds of college students in this country receive financial aid, and a high percenbtage also graduate with student debt. They need to work during school, but 20 hours a week at Starbucks—and other traditional parttime jobs—can be tough to swing when a student has clinicals, exam periods, or soccer games. That’s why we started QuadJobs, an online and mobile platform connecting students to local jobs that fit into whatever free time they have.

Well, that was one reason we started the business. The other was admittedly more self-serving: As busy parents, we wanted to tap into the army of college helpers living right in our community, but found this was surprisingly hard to do. Maybe you’ve had the same wish: You’re sending out 300 holiday cards, and would love to hire an NYU student to manage the task and save you a few hours. Or you’re having a party and there are errands

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Babysitting

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Party help (from bartending to face-painting)

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Organizing (photos, playrooms, summer clothes)

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Tech assistance

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Errands

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Sports coaches (soccer, football, etc.)

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Internships

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Dog walking

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Personal assistants

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Music lessons

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Moving help

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Social media support / guidance

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Running buddies (cheaper than a trainer, hire a college student to get you moving!)

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Restaurant / catering staff

HOW IT WORKS: 1.

Post a job (An annual membership of $35 gets you unlimited posts).

2. Hear back from local college students who are interested in your post.

3. Review a student’s past work experience (including ratings and comments from past employers). Reach out to the student/s you wish to hire.

“Babysitting is my all-time favorite job. Kids are very spontaneous and entertaining.

And any QuadJob that requires two or more people is really fun. Hopefully I can snag a dog-walking job (or anything pet-related) soon… that’s a QuadJob dream right there.”

- Travis Clarke, Manhattanville College “I worked with a tech startup and loved it.

The atmosphere of the office was amazing, and it really helped solidify my decision to go into computer engineering.”

- Imani Greaves, New York University “I loved working as a real estate website developer last summer as well as teaching two young boys to bike ride in an afternoon. The range of jobs is great.”

- Julian Adveney, University of Pennsylvania

BRIDIE CLARK LOVERRO: QuadJobs is approaching its second anniversary. Betsy, what’s the most memorable job you’ve seen posted on the site?

BETSY O’REILLY: I liked the recent post from a Greenwich family looking for a QuadJobber to drive a beloved stuffed animal to Tribeca. Friends must have visited for the weekend and left the toy behind, and clearly it was very missed! They had 10-15 students apply for that job within hours.

BCL: Andra, what about you?

ANDRA NEWMAN: All the jobs that the three of us would have jumped at in college: Ski weekends, helping get kids in skis and on the mountain; mother’s helper jobs in Nantucket or the Hamptons or Spain; temp work at hot startups and well-established companies. But the best thing about QuadJobs is that no jobs are too small. You have a couch to move—post it and it’s

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STUDENTS ARE SAYING:

to run, food to prep, drinks to serve—if only you could hire a Barnard kid for a few hours. As you pack the family car for the Hamptons, you think about how your kids would want a fun college student to swim, play, and ride bikes with—and you’d love to go out to dinner with friends. QuadJobs is the easy way to find the ideal college helper for any job, and at $35 per year for unlimited posts, it’s indisputably a deal.

And of course, it’s a great resource for businesses, too, in search of talented interns, graphic designers, social media experts, and extra hands to unpack boxes during a move.

QUADJOBS

done. We’ve had people use QuadJobbers to organize photos into albums, or teach their parents how to use their new iPhones.

T R I S H A E S T I LL

BCL: We call Andra, who headed recruitment for J.Crew and ran her own executive search firm, our “ace in the hole.” How did your previous career prepare you to start QuadJobs?

AN: Well, my background has been useful in terms of building a solid team of tech developers, marketing ambassadors, and staff.

And successful recruiting is all about matching two sets of needs.

That’s how we approach working with colleges [who provide the platform to their students for an annual fee]. We listen to what Career Services need, what Financial Aid needs, what their particular challenges are—and then we work with that. Our partnerships are not one-size-fits-all.

BCL: Our whole team hero-worships Betsy, our CEO. Bets, you were a Managing Director at Deutsche Bank, with 18 years of experience in investment banking. What drew you to start QuadJobs?

BO: I was involved in recruitment at Deutsche Bank, and we’d receive thousands of glittering, impressive resumes for just a handful of entry-level openings. Hiring a student out of college can be a guessing game—just because a student’s interned at high-profile companies doesn’t mean they’ll prove to be a strong full-time hire. So I saw the value in quantifying a student’s professional work ethic during college, and capturing that important piece of the puzzle. QuadJobs tracks every job a

student takes and gathers performance reviews from employers, which are then visible as “instant references” to the next potential employer. These reviews and ratings are very meaningful. A student who shows up on time, is professional, courteous, hardworking… I want to see that student succeed. The cream rises to the top very quickly on QuadJobs and it’s exciting to watch that kind of meritocracy in action.

BCL: What’s next for QuadJobs?

BO: More partnerships with colleges around the country. Career Services and Financial Aid are using QuadJobs to manage all the on-demand jobs around campus that frankly, they don’t have time to think about. And our platform transforms these odd jobs into something real for students, a track record of job performance and experience that they can take into interviews.

It levels the playing field for athletes and busy students who wouldn’t otherwise have time to work during the academic year.

AN: And we’re all eagerly awaiting the launch of our app, which will allow employers to post and award jobs on the go.

BCL: Which colleges in NYC have students using the platform?

AN: Columbia, Barnard, FIT, Fordham, NYU, and the New School are our primary colleges in the city, but we’re always growing. u Students don blue QuadJobs T-shirts bearing the QuadJobs logo on the front and their respective assigned positions on the back.

SEPTEMBER 2016 87

MARRIAGES

BY ELIZABETH QUINN BROWN & ELIZABETH MEIGHER

Lady Charlotte Wellesley & Alejandro Santo Domingo

Above: The groom’s brother, Andres Santo Doningo, with his mother, Beatrice Dávila, and Lady Charlotte’s parents, the 9th Duke of Wellington and the Duchess of Wellington.

Left: King Juan Carlos of Spain.

Above: Miguel and Vivi Duenas, John de Neufville, Breanna Sabo, and John Khoury. Left: The groom’s sister-in-law, Lauren Santo Domingo.

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G E T T Y; A KM - G S I

May 28, 2016 • Illora, SpaIn

© G T R E S O N L I N E ; G E T T Y: A KM - G S I

WEDDINGS

Top left: Alex Acquavella and wife, Mollie Ruprecht, with Hayley Bloomingdale. Top right: Eva Herzigova and friends. Bottom left: The Duchess of Cornwall, Camilla Parker-Bowles. Bottom right: Devon and Philip Radziwill.

Right: Musician Diego Garcia with his wife, Laura Poretzky-Garcia.

Top: James Blunt and his wife, Sofia Wellesley (the bride’s cousin). Below: The wedding party including the Duke’s heir apparent, Arthur Wellesley, his wife, Jemma Kidd, and their youngest son, Alfie.

Above: The bride wearing an off-the-shoulder Emilia Wickstead dress and a cathedral-length veil.

SEPTEMBER 2016

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MARRIAGES Sarah Elizabeth Berner & James Nevan Donahue B E N J A M I N LOV O S K Y, B FA

June 4, 2016 • SouthaMpton, new york

A day after the ceremony, the couple hosted friends and family at Dirty French restaurant. In lieu of gifts, charitable contributions were made to the ocean preservation group, Greenwave.

90 QUEST

Guests toast the happy new couple.

N AT U R A L E X P R E S S I O N S

Sarah and Nevan eloped on the beach in Southampton, in an intimate ceremony officiated by Frank Vogt. The bride wore a citrine J. Mendel dress.

The newlyweds smile happily with family. The bride donned a beaded jumpsuit by Temperly London and the groom wore Armani.

WEDDINGS

MARRIAGES Serena Tufo & Chase Robinson June 18, 2016 • SouthaMpton, new york

Serena and Chase were wed in Southampton, New York, with a ceremony at St. Andrew’s Dune Church and a reception at the Meadow Club.

C H A R LOT T E J E N K S LE W I S P H OTO G R A P H Y

The bride—who wore a dress by Monique Lhuillier—was escorted down the aisle by her father, Peter Tufo, and her stepfather, Richard Nye.

The bride was escorted down the aisle by her father, Peter Tufo, and her stepfather, Richard Nye.

Serena (who wore a dress by Monique Lhuillier) and Chase danced to “Can’t Help Falling In Love” by Elvis Presley.

SEPTEMBER 2016

91

THE GIVING BACK FOUNDATION

Invites you to India On November 10th 2016 to attend The Giving Back Foundation India Gala Please contact Kesi@TheGivingBackFoundation.net

for details

Date: Thursday, November 10th, 2016 Time: 7 pm-10 pm Place: French Embassy, New Delhi Tickets: $2500 Dress: Indian attire or black tie

and The Co-chairs of The Giving Back Foundation cordially invite you to a charity gala to benefit The Giving Back Foundation

FINANCE This page: The Buffalo, New York, headquarters of M&T Bank; CEO of M&T Bank, Robert G. Wilbers (inset).

HELPING SMALL BUSINESS

CO U RTE S Y O F M & T B A N K

BY ROBERT G. WILMERS PAYING LIP SERVICE to small businesses is a bipartisan pastime. Yet something has gone awry: A major reason for the anemic recovery is that since 2009 the average pace of new business formation has fallen to its lowest level in at least 22 years, according to the Bureau of Labor Statistics.

If politicians really want to help out small businesses, here’s a great place to start: reform the direction and practices of the Small Business Administration, the federal government’s agency for offering capital and counseling to startups and mom-and-pop shops.

In the 1980s, small businesses, firms with fewer than 100

employees, generated 58% of net new jobs, according to the Census Bureau. That figure slipped to 49% in the 1990s. Today only 31% of net job growth comes from small businesses. Although headlines rave about high-tech entrepreneurs, startups created only about 2.8 million jobs a year during the recovery, down from 3.6 million in 2006.

Meanwhile, the Small Business Administration has deviated from its core mission. Half as many small businesses (45,730) receive loans from the agency’s 6a loan-guaranty programs today as they did before the recession. These loans support only two-thirds as many jobs (503,853) as they did in 2007, according to SBA’s Annual Performance Reporting. Despite its mission to support small businesses, nearly a third of the annual lending authority goes toward loans over $2 million.

The agency has also made it more difficult for smaller banks to participate in its loan-guarantee programs. A burdensome 528 pages of regulations govern the loans. The SBA regularly releases new policy notices, 13 last year, that further complicate these rules.

The results have been predictable: a 13% reduction in bank participation since 2012. That’s 324 fewer banks willing to provide small-business loans through SBA loan programs.

This had led to a shift toward nonbank lenders, which aren’t as regulated, to meet small-dollar credit needs. Working through web portals that promise speedy turnarounds, these institutions now provide more small-business loans than ever. Nonbank financing to small businesses has doubled every year since the mid-2000s, the Federal Reserve estimates.

Yet not all forms of financing are created equal. The biggest and most important advantage of traditional banks is that they can provide lasting hands-on support. Virtual lenders outside the community use algorithms to turn real-world entrepreneurs into online profiles. But an app will never fully understand a local business the way a person from the same town does.

Community banks understand the volatility that debt introduces to the city or town, but also the economic prosperity it can nurture when deployed prudently. Credit well-extended helps create viable small businesses, which means new jobs, filled by people who buy homes and cars, shop for groceries and clothing, go to movies and museums, pay taxes, and give to charities.

If political leaders are serious about fueling economic growth, then they should do more than praise small business.

Putting the SBA’s focus back where it belongs and expanding lending through community banks would be an extremely effective start. u This article previously appeared in the Wall Street Journal.

SEPTEMBER 2016 93

R E A L E S TAT E

A MODERN LAKE HOUSE RETREAT EXQUISITELY DESIGNED and built to the highest standards, this newly custom-built, four-bedroom, state-ofthe art home has never been occupied and is ready for immediate occupancy.

This modern lake house totals 4,730 square feet on three levels, comprised of four bedrooms (master has deck with lake views), four bathrooms, two powder rooms, and an attached, heated two-bay garage.

The spacious living room with a vaulted ceiling has dramatic views of Lake Waramaug and an elevated fireplace.

There is a large sitting area in the second-floor loft space that opens to the living room, which is between the two

94 QUEST

spacious bedrooms with great lake views.

Attention to details and quality is represented by solid oak trim, smoked Russian oak flooring, heated ceramic floor tiles, LePage windows and doors, and Emtek hardware throughout.

A modern kitchen plan includes two Meile dishwashers, a dual compressor, French door style, stainless steel fridge/ freezer by Subzero, and a six-burner stove and massive Wolf oven (flanked and backed with Carrera marble, capped overhead with a stainless steel, LED lighted exhaust hood, also by Wolf). The kitchen island hosts stools for casual dining and conversation as well as a gooseneck faucet for the sink. Adjacent sits a workstation

This page, clockwise from top left: A view of the new boathouse; the state-of-the-art home; the spacious living room with dramatic views of Lake Waramaug; masonry steps leading to the freshwater lake; interior of boathouse. Opposite page, clockwise from top left: View from the lake; the boathouse entry; the level lawn area; the interiors

CO U RTE S Y O F K LE M M R E A L E S TATE

are designed to perfection; the boathouse porch.

desk area and side entrance door. The kitchen’s main feature is just beyond the dining area, outside double glazed, double doors: a red mahogany–decked porch with outdoor remote controlled fireplace, seating for eight, all sitting high atop a sweeping view of Lake Waramaug.

There is a third dishwasher and Subzero refrigerator discretely installed under the built-in mahogany bar in the spacious, ground-floor family room with an expansive view of the lake and direct access to a large lawn. A stainless steel bar sink, surrounded by black granite counter top, complements the solid oak under-counter cabinets. The bar is conveniently located just around the corner from the cedar-

lined wine cellar with built-in racks for more than 500 bottles of red, white, rosé, or bubbly. Next to the wine cellar is a large bonus space perfect for a home theater, gym, or children’s playroom.

At the water’s edge is a new boathouse with living area (including kitchen and bathroom) plus enclosed boat dockage.

The prime waterfront area includes a level lawn, floating dock, and over 150 feet of lake frontage with masonry steps leading into the lake. u For more information, contact Peter Klemm of Klemm Real Estate at 917.864.4940 or peterklemm@msn.com.

CALENDAR

SEPTEMBER

On September 5, the Museum of Yachting will host its 36th Classic Yacht Regatta at Fort Adams State Park in Newport, Rhode Island.

There will also be a welcoming party at 6 p.m. on September 4. For more information, call 401.848.5777.

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The seventh Annual Run/Walk for the Horses and Kids and Fun Run will take place at Saratoga Spa State Park at 7 a.m. For more information, call 518.584.2535.

J.McLaughlin will host a sip and shop event to preview the brand’s Fall 2016 collection at the Upper East Side J.McLaughlin store (1004 Lexington Avenue) at 6 p.m. Fifteen percent of the sales will benefit the Alzheimer’s Drug Discovery Foundation and its mission to cure Alzheimer’s and related dementias. For more information, call 917.375.0236.

AND THEY’RE OFF!

SHOP FOR A CAUSE

5

SCOTCH AND SCHOONERS

The Museum of Yachting will host its 36th Classic Yacht Regatta at Ford Adams State Park. For more information, call 401.848.5777.

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STARTING LINE

FASHION’S IMPACT

The Couture Council will hold its awards luncheon at the David H. Koch Theater. For more information, call 518.798.7479.

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On September 22, the New York Women’s Foundation will celebrate its Queens Dinner for women who have demonstrated outstanding leadership and neighborhood commitment at LaGuardia Community College at 6 p.m. For more information, call 212.514.6993.

The 46th Lake Placid Classic Half Marathon and 10k will begin at the oval on Main Street at 8:30 a.m. For more information, call 518.897.2685.

CALENDAR

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GIVING BACK

The Community Service Society of New York will host its Step-Up party at City Winery (155 Varick Street) at 6 p.m. CSS chairperson Joseph R. Habert and Deborah M. Sale will be honored at the event. For more information, call 212.614.5407.

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TUNE IN

On September 21, the Rolex Central Park Horse Show will take place at New York City’s Wollman Rink. The equestrian event will continue through September 25. For more information, call 888.429.9495.

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CATCH A WAVE

The seventh annual Dream Extreme, the three-day beach bash offering fun outdoor activities like kite boarding and yoga, will take place from September 16–18 in East Hampton. For more information, call 212.737.7896.

17

FALL SALE

The Adirondack Museum will host its annual Antiques Show and Sale at the museum at 10 a.m. For more information, call 401.848.4141.

The Morgan Library and Museum will host an evening of live music at the museum (225 Madison Avenue) at 6 p.m.

Violinist Carmit Zori and Violist Robert Rinehart will perform and proceeds will benefit the Tom Golisano Center for Autism and Springbrook. For more information, call 212.685.0008.

LaGuardia Community College at 6 p.m. For more information, call 718.482.7200.

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23

Virginia’s House of Hope will host its seventh annual charity concert at the Kaufman Music Center (129 West 67th Street) at 7 p.m.

The event will feature performances by Lucia Palmieri and Fredrick Redd. Proceeds will support the organization’s Tugboat Program. For more information, call 917.854.4040.

POWER BREAKFAST

Women in Business: Making a Change will host its annual breakfast to support Dress for Success’ financial education program at Hotel Eventi at 8 a.m. For more information, call 212.564.4567

HOPE SPRINGS ETERNAL

October 8

ADIRONDACK ARTS

Fall Fest and the Fiber Arts Fair will take place at the Adirondack Museum from 10 a.m to 5 p.m.

For more information, call 844.304.0166.

2

BEHIND THE LENS

Author Michael Gross will discuss his new book Focus: The Secret, Sexy Sometimes Sordid World of Fashion Photographers at the Redwood Library (50 Bellevue Avenue, Newport, Rhode Island) at 6 p.m. For more information, call 401.847.0292.

5

SAVING LIVES

Lifeline New York will host its annual benefit luncheon at Le Cirque (151 East 58th Street) at noon. Proceeds will support pediatric cancer care in Serbia. For more information, call 212.867.5050.

6

ACTION!

The 24th Hamptons International Film Festival will take place from October 6–10. For more information, call 631.324.4600.

21

CENTER STAGE

One of the most anticipated equestrian events of the year, the Rolex Central Park Horse Show will return to New York City’s Wollman Rink from September 21–25. The event will feature five days of diverse programming and daily exhibitions of different breeds and disciplines ranging from Arabians, show jumping, dressage, hunters, and more. This year’s riders will include Georgina Bloomberg, Kent Farrington, Margie Goldstein-Engle, Todd Minkas, Callan Solem, and Laura Kraut. For more information, call 888.429.9495.

22 PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N

BOLD LEADERS

The New York Women’s Foundation Queen’s Dinner honoring women who have demonstrated outstanding leadership will take place at

On September 7, the Couture Council will hold its awards luncheon at the David H. Koch Theater at Lincoln Center. For more information, call 631.324.0806.

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ARIANA ALL-AMERICAN PRODUCED AND STYLED BY DANIEL CAPPELLO PHOTOGRAPHED BY JULIE SKARRATT

JUST AS YOU CAN spot a ballerina from a mile away by her impeccable posture, so can you tell an equestrian by her surefootedness. I’m still not quite sure if it’s because a certain kind of person is inherently attracted to horses, or whether it’s the horse who makes the man (or woman), but I do know when I’m in the presence of someone who loves and rides horses: there is the reassuring ease, the understated self-possession, the determined resolve, the nobility of spirit. And when you’re in the presence of Ariana Rockefeller, who has loved horses since childhood and has grown into a bona fide competitor in the world of amateur adult jumping, not only do you sense these virtues—you feel ennobled yourself.

I am with Ariana at the stables of Grand Central Farm in North Salem, New York, which is owned by Old Salem Farm and operated as a show stable by her trainers Heather Hays and Alex Hamer, co-owners of the business Buxton Farm LLC. Here, Ariana houses the two horses she rides professionally, Stuart and Leo. Stuart, a 12-year-old Irish Sport Horse who competes with her as a show-jumper, has gorgeous chestnut coloring and a macho flair. He’s noticeably heartened when Ariana steps into the stalls, and begins to strut and kick for a bit. I get the sense he’s showing me who’s boss—or he might just be showing off a bit. “I know, I know,” Ariana says, caressing his face, “You’re not used to these clothes.” I’ve asked her to put jodhpurs aside for the day, and she’s wearing a marvelously embroidered tulle dress from Valentino’s Fall 2016 runway collection, as part of a series of fashion portraits I’ve somehow convinced her to do for this story. It’s almost as if Stuart understands there’s going to be a photo shoot: just like that, he falls into place and takes direction. You can tell that this is a true partnership in which each understands the other.

The story of Ariana and Stuart is very much a metaphor for everything in Ariana’s life. It’s a story about great instinct and good character, and also a story of patience and perseverance.

She knew the moment she met him back in January 2015 that 98 QUEST

he was the horse for her. “With horses and their riders, there has to be good chemistry, like in any good relationship,” Ariana says. “You have to feel that chemistry and know that this is going to be the right partnership, or at least something that you want to pursue.” With Stuart, she explains, it was a match from the start—“in the way he moved, the way we found the distance to the jump together, and just the comfort that I had on his back.” But only a few months after she purchased him, Stuart tore a ligament along with bone from his right hind leg. Some might have urged her, especially since this was so early in their relationship, to put him out to pasture, literally, but Ariana felt a deep sense of commitment to him. A year of physical training later, including an underwater treadmill, and Ariana and Stuart were back in action. For Ariana, equestrian sport has taught her the importance of setting goals for oneself and pacing oneself; if injury creeps its way into those expectations, be it for athlete or horse, then the other has to adjust. This is also, it becomes clear to me—as I follow her up at the farm and back in the city over the course of several months—the kind of respect Ariana affords to anyone who crosses paths with her in life.

Spending time with her, you almost forget her last name.

Raised in Cambridge, Massachusetts, she grew up to graduate from Columbia with a degree in international politics. She worked for a time at the United Nations before transitioning to a fashion house and then launching her own namesake fashion label. She is married to Matthew Bucklin, a native of Maine, where the two originally met as children and continue to vacation. They share a down-to-earth, easygoing style that is more Maine comfort, less New York frenzy. When not training Opposite page: At Ladurée SoHo for a breakfast meeting, Ariana is pictured in Ralph Lauren Collection’s Fairisle V-neck vest, silk Marocaine shirt, cashmere Fairisle skirt, and wool plaid tie, with suede Manolo Blahnik heels and a collection of personal bracelets and jewelry, including a Longines watch from the brand’s Equestrian Collection.

This page: On the grounds of Grand Central Farm, Ariana is a natural beauty in a longsleeve cashmere turtleneck from Ralph Lauren Collection, Tory Burch’s Lucitano skirt, and Stuart Weitzman’s Lowland boots in Loden suede. She holds the Sellier clutch in persimmon ostrich from the Ariana Rockefeller Handbag Collection, launching this fall.

Opposite page: At the stable doors in a silk cotton shirt, silk tie, 170s wool suiting pant, and suede shoes, all by Ralph Lauren Collection.

This page: Ariana, wearing the Patchwork Harness gown by Adeam and Karina Brez earrings, gets ready to saddle up in the indoor riding arena at Grand Central Farm. Opposite page: Preparing her horse Stuart in the stables, Ariana is stunning in an embroidered tulle dress by Valentino, Jimmy Choo strap shoes, and Karina Brez earrings.

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This spread: Ariana, used to making strides with her horses at Grand Central Farm in North Salem, New York, takes a moment for a fashionable stride in Valentino’s long embroidered tulle dress and patent slippers with Karina Brez earrings. All beauty styling: Jenny Smith, NARS Lead Makeup Stylist (makeup), and Mario Mele of Oscar Blandi Salon, New York (hair).

and riding upstate or in Wellington, Florida, she goes to work on the Ariana Rockefeller fashion brand, a ready-to-wear collection of classic, easy-to-wear styles in timeless silhouettes. Designed and manufactured in Manhattan’s Garment District, the dresses and separates are Ariana’s concept of accessible luxury and timeless American chic: foundational pieces for the modern woman. She is also hard at work for the debut this fall of her eponymous handbag collection, also made in New York and inspired by her love of equestrianism (picture classic shapes with brass hardware from a horse’s bridle here, stitching from a horse saddle there).

Whenever her sister, Camilla, comes up in conversation, Ariana speaks proudly about Camilla’s career as an archeologist. Whenever her grandfather calls, there’s a sweet affection in her voice (then, looking up at the Chuck Close portrait of him hanging in her living room, you realize he just happens to be David Rockefeller, the oldest living member and patriarch of her storied American family). She sits on the board of the David Rockefeller Fund, which focuses on arts education and criminal justice reform.

She is passionate about all things equine and is involved with the Humane Society. And she remains committed to her family legacy of supporting the arts and culture in New York by giving of her time and efforts on behalf of MoMA, the New York Botanical Garden, and American Ballet Theatre.

She is levelheaded yet commanding, even with taxi drivers who would send most New Yorkers into a rage, as I witness firsthand as we’re battling a sea of traffic to get downtown one day. What’s the secret to her uncanny ability to live both personally and professionally with such measured control?

“The horses have given me such a focus and selfconfidence,” she tells me. “It’s an intense sport—you really have to organize your time very efficiently. So it’s made me an incredibly efficient person—in how I do my business, in how I structure my life, and how I take care of my health. You have to be in shape and you have to be mentally present. It’s a great way to structure my lifestyle. It’s my inspiration and my grounding for my life.” As far as grounding in life goes, Ariana’s, from this perspective at least, is rock solid. —Daniel Cappello SEPTEMBER 2016 105

Opposite page: In the fields of Grand Central Farm with her horse Stuart, Ariana wears Ralph Lauren Collection’s herringbone wool jacketing doublebreasted dress, cashmere turtleneck, and boots. This page: As a chairwoman for a gala evening at American Ballet Theatre, one of the cultural institutions she supports, Ariana wears a pink double-face satin seamed strapless gown by Katie Ermilio, clutch by Edie Parker, her own diamond earrings, and Verdura’s diamond Leaf and Flower bracelet, made in 1954 for Mrs. Vincent (Brooke) Astor. Makeup for this portrait by Nicole Bryl.

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This page: President and Mrs. Reagan bidding goodbye on the north portico to Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher after the State Dinner held in her honor, February 26, 1981; Nancy and Ronald Reagan aboard a boat in California in August 1964 (inset).

Opposite page: A set of 16 Mexican silver place plates, each centered by an engraved monogram “RWR” (estimated at $4,000–6,000); a diamond, sapphire, and ruby ring by Bulgari worn by Mrs. Reagan on July 4, 1986 (estimated at $5,000–8,000).

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PRESIDENTIAL BIDDING

C H R I S T I E ’ S I M A G E S LT D . 2 0 1 6

T H E RO N A L D R E A G A N P R E S I D E N T I A L F O U N DAT I O N ;

BY DANIEL CAPPELLO AMERICANS WILL ALWAYS hold a fondness (and fantasy) for the Reagan years: the booming economy; the billowy shoulder pads that seemed to follow the growth of the Dow; the soothing voice of a Hollywood-trained president with a reassuring pitch in times of trouble; the end of the Cold War; and yes, the entertaining. The Reagan White House was marked by a high style of entertaining that brought a luster to Washington the likes of which hadn’t been seen since the Kennedy years. Who will ever forget Princess Diana, wearing a midnight blue velvet gown and sapphire-and-diamond choker, gliding and twirling across the

White House dance floor with movie star John Travolta?

Still, for all their silver-polished and crystal-clad state entertaining, Nancy and Ronald Reagan loved retreating to their inner sanctum in the private quarters at the White House. They carried their affection for the White House’s private residence back to California with them when they moved, post-presidency, into a beautiful Ted Graber–designed home in the Bel Air enclave of Los Angeles. And now, for the first time, the public is being invited to glimpse an inside view of the Reagans’ personal life—and to own a part of it—via the upcoming sale at Christie’s of “The Private Collection of President SEPTEMBER 2016 109

This page, from above: The library of the Reagans’ private home in Bel Air; President and Mrs. Reagan paddling their canoe Truluv on Lake Lucky at Rancho Del Cielo in 1983; a group of bar napkins embroidered “Reagan’s Bar” and “the drinks are on the house at The Reagan’s” (estimated at $200–400). Opposite page: The inside of “Reagan’s Bar,” which was concealed in paneling on either side of the fireplace in the couple’s home library.

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J O E S C H M E L Z E R , T R E A S U R B I T E S T U D I O I N C . ; T H E RO N A L D R E A G A N P R E S I D E N T I A L F O U N DAT I O N ; C H R I S T I E ’ S I M A G E S LT D . 2 0 1 6

and Mrs. Ronald Reagan.” The landmark collection is slated for sale at Christie’s New York on September 21 and 22, with live and online components, and will coincide with Christie’s Americana Week auctions.

The sale is a window into the private lives of one of the country’s most public couples, offering furniture, decorative works, paintings, sculptures, drawings, and prints from President and Mrs. Reagan’s home in Los Angeles. Decorative highlights include furniture and light fixtures designed by Billy Haines in the Hollywood Regency style; monogrammed porcelains ornamented with the presidential seal; Chinese export ceramics; and personal mementos. Many of the objects from their private collection were used during their time in the White House.

Standout pieces include personal mementos with exceptional provenance that are emblematic of the couple’s time in the White House, including a Tiffany American Marine Chronometer, estimated between $5,000–10,000, which was an inauguration gift from Frank and Barbara Sinatra. It bears an engraved plaque that reads, “Good Morning Mr. President,” and is dedicated: “January 1981 Love Francis and Barbara.” Another personal gift, from Margaret and Denis Thatcher, is a pair of Elizabeth II silver beakers, estimated between $1,000–2,000, and inscribed, “With love, from Margaret and Denis Thatcher.”

echoed some of the color schemes and layout of the private family quarters in the White House. The Reagans sought to entertain their guests with great care and attention to detail—not to mention whimsy. “The wonderful embroidered napkins from the ‘Reagan’s Bar’ give a sense of the fun and hospitality they shared with family and friends in their post-presidential Californian home,” Sudlow points out.

Per the Reagans’ wishes, proceeds from the collection sale, which are estimated to realize in excess of $2 million, are designated for the Ronald Reagan Presidential Foundation and Institute, the nonprofit, non-partisan organization that sustains the Ronald Reagan Presidential Library and Museum, the Ronald Reagan Institute, the Center for Public Affairs, the Presidential Learning Center, and the Air Force One Pavilion. Located in Simi Valley, California, the Library serves as the final resting place of President and Mrs. Reagan and houses over 55 million pages of gubernatorial, presidential, and personal papers and over 40,000 gifts and artifacts that chronicle their lives. So even if you’re unable to bid on a $10,000 pair of Mexican silver mounted ostrich eggs or a $1,000 monogrammed “RR” pillow, there’s always the permanent collection for posterity on view in Simi Valley, just a plane ride away. u

C H R I S T I E ’ S I M A G E S LT D . 2 0 1 6 ; J O E S C H M E L Z E R , T R E A S U R B I T E S T U D I O I N C . ; T H E RO N A L D R E A G A N P R E S I D E N T I A L F O U N DAT I O N ;

Mrs. Reagan’s jewelry features prominently in the sale, including a suite of diamond and gold lion pendant-brooch necklace and lion ear clips by Van Cleef & Arpels, which she wore on a state visit to the United Kingdom in 1988. An American flag motif diamond ring with sapphires and rubies by Bulgari, one of the first lady’s favorite jewelry houses, reinforces the symbolic Americana flair favored by this first couple.

Gemma Sudlow, a vice president at Christie’s, shared what it was like bringing this collection together. “One of the most profound experiences was entering President and Mrs. Reagan’s home for the first time. You were immediately greeted at the doorway by a rustic bench,” Sudlow tells. “One of the Reagans’ close circle who took us around the home said they often came out to greet guests as they arrived.” The home, according to Sudlow, was welcoming and warm. “Decorated in the relaxed but gracious Californian style, there was a sense of the Reagans as great hosts and the home was filled with gifts from close personal friends. The furniture and works of art they surrounded themselves with suggested a modest and elegant way of living.”

The collection includes a group of entertaining wares, from monogrammed placemats and silver to formal porcelain services and napery. The interior spaces created for the Reagans in Bel Air by decorators Ted Graber and Peter Schifando

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This page: The living room of the Reagans’ Ted Graber– designed home in Bel Air; President and Mrs. Reagan sitting in California overlooking Lake Lucky at Rancho Del Cielo, 1982 (inset below).

Opposite page: A Mottahedeh porcelain Chinese export style monogrammed part dinner service with cobalt blue border gilt with stars, trellis, and butterflies and gilt “RWR” monogram (estimated at $5,000–10,000).

FIRST DAUGHTER FASHION PRODUCED BY DANIEL CAPPELLO

Even though this fall’s race for the presidency is still up for grabs, one thing is certain: no matter which candidate wins, America will have a poised, polished, and elegant First Daughter, which means fashion houses are sure to have their hands full for the next four years. Here, we asked some of our favorite designers to sketch some looks for Ivanka Trump and Chelsea Clinton, for either election night or the inaugural balls.

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Either Chelsea Clinton or Ivanka Trump would be the picture of grace at the inaugural balls in Angel Sanchez’s boat-neck sleeveless lace gown with velveteen ribbon at the waist.

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Jane Lewis is not just the founder and creative director of the British label Goat— she’s one of Kate Middleton’s go-to favorites. Here, Lewis imagines Chelsea Clinton on election night in a crêpe navy jumpsuit with black velvet trim waistband and fixed bow detail at the neckline.

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Designer Michelle Smith goes with a celebratory feel for Chelsea Clinton on election night in this Milly Couture Popppy Fil Coupe Pleatback Dress.

Chelsea Clinton would shine bright on election night in this Escada dress with sunray cutouts at the neckline.

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Ivanka Trump would have reason to get dressed up for the inaugural balls in this embroidered bustier with cascading pleated tulle skirt by Escada.

Designer Dennis Basso imagines Chelsea Clinton in his platinum embroidered lace and chiffon gown for the inaugural ball festivities.

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For Ivanka Trump on the evening of the inaugural balls, Dennis Basso pictures this ash rose lamĂŠ and emroidered floral organza gown.

TREND SPOTTING

BY ALEX TRAVERS

Brock

Collec

tion

Balmain

Miu Miu

Michael

Ko r s

Burberry

Lanvin

Gucci

Rober to

C a va l l i

Chris

tian

Dior

PERHAPS THIS HAS already happened to you. If not, consider it inevitable. You see a new outfit that holds an unexpected style of decorative boldness, one you really like that comes from a designer you didn’t know specializes in brocades. The look will be ornamental but alluring. But you will not be seeing the stuffy, repetitive patterns that once adorned your grandmother’s upholsteries. With fresh luster, the latest fall fashions take the bore out of brocade and speak to us in a new tenor of sumptuousness.

SEPTEMBER 2016 123

Lam ek Der

Chane

l

Marc Jacobs

to Salva

ra re Fe r

gamo

IT WAS NEVER established who started the cape trend this season—if it was more than just one designer with superhero desires, it may have been a collective need to reshape ordinary outwear. There’s something mysterious about a cape: the way it billows in the wind, its costume-y appearance. Sure, it may serve a practical function—to protect the fine fabric of the dress without crushing or hiding it like a coat—but its attraction comes mainly from its shape and supernatural association. Be brave and try one on for size this fall.

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D s q u a re

d2

Sies Marjan

Libertine

Rober to

Cavalli

Missoni

Maison

M a rg i e l a

Marni

Mulbe rry

ChloĂŠ

Prada

Theory

N e i l B a r re t t

Given

chy

u Miu Mi

IT’S A SIMPLE formula: navy, white, and gold. On a jacket or blazer, the style is classic and empowering. But for Fall 2016, key elements of the naval officer look—sailor caps, rank insignia, epaulettes—were repurposed to fashionable effect. The decorative ruled. We saw more gold buttons, lower cuts of jacket, stunning embroideries. No matter the exact style, the runways were full of double-breasted blazers—some nautical, others more militaristic.

Prada and Tommy Hilfiger even dedicated their sets to the at-sea theme. Expect to see the trickle-down effect. But, hey, that’s good news: You’ll have plenty to choose from this season.

SEPTEMBER 2016 127

To m m y H i l f i g e r

Pa u l S m i t h

o

Fr a m e D enim

llian John Ga

Tibi

Burberr

y

P re e n

lli Ro b e r t o C a va

F e r re t t i

Haider Ackermann

Alberta

Balm

ain

ents

Ra l p h L a u re n

Ro l a n d M o u re t

Ve t e m

B o t t e g a Ve neta e Mons

THEY’RE ALREADY hitting stores.

They’ve even made some surprising summer appearances. Which means there’s no doubt that lush velvet gowns, all soft to the touch, will be the headturning trend this fall. Peter Dundas, the rock star at Roberto Cavalli, showed numerous velvet smoking jackets at his runway show in Italy. Ralph Lauren sent out a beautiful aubergine gown with a sweetheart cut. Monse produced a few bare shoulder dresses in soft pink. And Alberta Ferretti made a velvet suit, cut with the looseness of a robe. Take your pick. u SEPTEMBER 2016 129

© G LE B D E RU J I N S K Y, F RO M C A P T U R I N G FA S H I O N : D E RU J I N S K Y ( F L A M M A R I O N )

CAPTURING FASHION

BY DANIEL CAPPELLO

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This page: Derujinksy used the bleached palette of the beach and concrete walls to completment a sand-colored halter top and full-skirted dress by Cabana, paired with tan Capezio shoes. Opposite page: The photographer was inspired by the SS Santa Paula as a backdrop for 1956 styles, including this blue-andwhite dappled Moygashel linen pullover top with periwinkle linen pencil skirt.

AT THE AGE of 14, Gleb Derujinsky was already one of the youngest members of the prestigious Camera Club of New York, where he was exposed to and tutored by the likes of Edward Steichen and Alfred Stieglitz, both groundbreaking pioneers in American photography. Ewing Krainin, founding member of the Society of Magazine Photographers, instructed a young Derujinsky: “If you want to learn, pick a photographer whom you admire and a photograph you like, and copy it.” If the copies turn out perfectly, Krainin said, try another profession. If, however, the copies don’t resemble the original and the picture is interesting, you have a future. Young Derujinsky chose Horst P. Horst of Vogue, and he most certainly had a future—the fruits of which are on exquisite display in the newly published Capturing Fashion: Derujinsky (Flammarion).

This page: Model, muse, and onetime wife of the photographer himself, Ruth Neumann is captured in a graphic green-andyellow striped Staron silk dress by Galanos, with a leafy green hat by Mr. Arnold and Nettie Rosenstein earrings, April 1959. Opposite page: Ruth, in March 1958, “wafts” through the Jardin des Champs-Élysées in a black Dior evening dress and Diorissimo perfume (above); the cover of Capturing Fashion: Derujinsky (Flammarion).

© G LE B D E RU J I N S K Y, F RO M C A P T U R I N G FA S H I O N : D E RU J I N S K Y ( F L A M M A R I O N )

His unique perspective on photography—and fashion photography, at that—might trace its artistic origins back to his father, Gleb W. Derujinsky, a Russian aristocrat, elitist, and award-winning sculptor who dismissed photography as nothing more than documentation. With determined imagination, Gleb, Jr., set out to prove differently. He surrounded himself with artistic types from all media, just as long as they were the best. It was an outlook that elevated his art (yes, art) to be on par with the likes of Richard Avedon and Irving Penn.

Derujinsky flourished at Harper’s Bazaar during the magazine’s so-called Golden Age, edited by Carmel Snow. Her unerring eye for art in fashion extended to the photographers she picked to represent it, and Derujinsky fit the bill like few others. His goal, perhaps owing to his father’s own unforgiving remarks, was not to take a mere photograph, but to create a work of art. As Capturing Fashion vividly testifies to, Derujinsky’s romantic view of life was translated into images with 180-degree peripheries, as his daughter Andrea notes in the book’s introduction. The entirety of the landscape, the model, and the fashion come together to inspire readers and observers to muse, interact with, and become part of each photo. Faraway places make for unexpected settings; fabulous cars, boats, ships, planes, and trains provide thrilling backdrops; and fashion is the driving vehicle. Capturing Fashion is a step back in time to the birth and height of high fashion photography, and it will capture you. u SEPTEMBER 2016 133

in a beige wool dress by David Barr for Fabiola with a Lilly Dashé hat, Miriam Haskell earrings, and Hansen gloves. Opposite page: Kouka Denis is captured looking simply chic in 1961 in an oversized navy blouse and white Helanca stretch nylon pants by Pius Wieler against brilliant colors of ceramic tiles on the bridge in Plaza de España in Seville.

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© G LE B D E RU J I N S K Y, F RO M C A P T U R I N G FA S H I O N : D E RU J I N S K Y ( F L A M M A R I O N )

This page: A July 1960 photo of a model looking for the perfect image

2006

2007

FASHION THAT LUNCHES B Y L I LY H O A G L A N D WHAT DOES IT TAKE to create an event that becomes part of New York’s social landscape? “Frankly, some guts,” says Liz Peek, who, along with Yaz Hernandez, created what is now known as the official kick-off to New York Fashion Week: the Couture Council of The Museum at FIT Awards Ceremony and benefit luncheon. On September 7, hundreds of people will gather in a luminous chamber in Lincoln Center, dressed in their most elegantly fashion-forward daywear, to celebrate some of the brightest designers of our time.

Liz and Yaz use the same word to describe it: glamorous.

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One of the most original aspects behind the luncheon’s success is its gaiety. This is the rare event where the “too cool” atmosphere of Fashion Week dissolves under the sunshine pouring over the tables, and you can catch even the most severe titan of industry cracking smiles and jokes. “At any given table you could find a designer, a magazine editor, a philanthropist, and a high-powered CEO,” says Yaz, “and that makes for such interesting conversation.” Liz believes that, like artists meeting collectors, both the designers and the patrons of couture benefit from intermingling at these affairs.

2008 This spread, from far left: The first honoree of the annual Couture Council Awards Luncheon, Ralph Rucci, and the fashion icon Iris Apfel, 2006; Lanvin designer Alber Elbaz blows a kiss for his thanks for the award the next year; 2008 honoree Isabel Toledo and her husband, Ruben; actress Maggie Gyllenhaal jokingly grabs for Dries Van Noten’s 2009 award; the late writer Ingrid Sischy (center right) delights honoree Karl Lagerfeld, Diane Kruger, and AndrÊ Leon Talley, 2010.

PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N

2009

2010

2011 2012 This page, clockwise from top left: Anna Wintour and 2011 award recipient Valentino Garavani; Oscar de la Renta delightfully receives the award from then-mayor Michael Bloomberg; Iman, Hilary Swank, and honoree Michael Kors enjoying the 2013 luncheon. Opposite page: Radiant 2014 award recipient Carolina Herrera shares a laugh with Gray-

The event began in 2006. Liz and Yaz were passionate about celebrating the work that FIT does, not just for the world of fashion, but for its community. Almost half of the 10,000 students are the first in their families to pursue higher education. “We’re convinced that FIT is the kind of institution that keeps the American dream alive,” explains Liz. They organized a benefit lunch at Brasserie 8 ½.”We were so nervous,” remembers Yaz. “We weren’t sure if we were going to be able to fill the space.” The result: a full house. They had filled a hole in the Fashion Week market.

Ten years later and the luncheon’s popularity keeps soaring.

Now the entire guest list is covered with enough bold-faced names to drain a printer. There are scores of designers, movie stars, social royalty, tastemakers, and the fashion elite who consider this the opening ceremony to the fashion Olympics.

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The two women also credit their triumph to the brilliant Valerie Steele, director of the Museum at FIT, as well as a dedicated and committed board.

When asked about what their favorite year has been, Liz passes, but Yaz begrudgingly answers, “Carolina Herrera [in 2013]. I regard her as close friend of mine, a neighbor, and an inspiration for all the Latin women who want to succeed in a country without boundaries.”

Amusingly, what both had feared would be a point of weakness ended up being a point in their favor. Back in 2006, scheduling the first event for the Wednesday after Labor Day seemed like a gamble. What if nobody wanted to come back from the Hamptons? Liz had spent the summer agonizing over whether they could entice people to return from their summer vacation. “Turns out, a great many can’t wait!” u

PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N

2013

don Carter; Uma Thurman and last year’s honoree Manolo Blahnik; the 2016 honoree, Albert Kriemler.

2014 2015

2016

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KIKU: THE ART OF THE JAPANESE GARDEN RECEPTION & DINNER THURSDAY, OCTOBER 13, 2016

6:30 PM Cocktails—Enid A. Haupt Conservatory • 7:30 PM Dinner—Garden Terrace Room

Larry Lederman

For more information and tickets, please contact Thao Phan at 718.817.8774 or tphan@nybg.org or visit nybg.org/kiku-dinner

The New York Botanical Garden salutes Judy and Michael Steinhardt and Mitsubishi Corporation (Americas) for their important contributions to the Garden.

Please join us for this festive evening immersed in Japanese art and culture.

Kiku: The Art of the Japanese Garden Reception & Dinner Chairmen Mr. and Mrs. Coleman P. Burke Jill Joyce Janet and Tom Montag Jennifer and Malcolm Nolen Marjorie and Jeffrey A. Rosen Janet Ross Nonie and John Sullivan

Honorary Chairmen Mary and Marvin Davidson Anne and Tom Hubbard Mr. and Mrs. Motoatsu Sakurai Ambassador and Mrs. Reiichiro Takahashi

Vice Chairmen Marta and David Black Maureen and Richard Chilton Andrea H. Fahnestock and George A. Hambrecht Dotty and Lionel Goldfrank Robert F. Gossett, Jr. Louise K. Hirschfeld and Lewis B. Cullman Diane Katzin and Rick Kurnit Susan E. Lynch Susan and George Matelich Mr. and Mrs. John R. Robinson Mr. and Mrs. Charles M. Royce Carmen and John Thain Caroline A. Wamsler, Ph.D. and DeWayne N. Phillips Sue Ann Weinberg Mr. and Mrs. Edward K. Weld List in formation

Sponsored By

Proceeds from the evening will support the Fund for Horticulture and the care and maintenance of our treasured urban oasis.

Learn more about NYBG’s anniversary at nybg.org/125

Kiku: The Art of the Japanese Garden Reception & Dinner Kiku: The Art of the Japanese Garden Reception & Dinner will center around one of the Garden’s most beloved exhibitions. Kiku, the Japanese word for chrysanthemum, is the most celebrated of all Japanese fall-flowering plants, and hundreds of meticulously trained kiku will be on display in the landmark Enid A. Haupt Conservatory.

The evening will offer guests the opportunity to enjoy sake tastings, traditional Japanese music, and exclusive tours followed by an elegant dinner in the beautifully redesigned Garden Terrace Room.

The Garden is also pleased to honor Mitsubishi Corporation (Americas), along with its President & CEO, Mr. Hidemoto Mizuhara, for helping NYBG introduce the beauty of Japanese plants and traditions to thousands of visitors every year by sponsoring Kiku: The Art of the Japanese Garden.

Robert Benson

For more information and tickets, please contact Thao Phan at 718.817.8774 or tphan@nybg.org or visit nybg.org/kiku-dinner

© Robert Benson Photography

Please join The New York Botanical Garden in honoring Judy and Michael Steinhardt for their steadfast commitment to the Garden and their wonderful gift to the Maple Collection, which features a wide range of maple species and cultivars, including native species and rare selections from Japan and China. The Judy and Michael Steinhardt Maple Collection will reopen this fall with a dedication taking place earlier in the day of the Dinner.

The Exhibition The New York Botanical Garden’s distinctive and acclaimed fall exhibition, Kiku: The Art of the Japanese Garden, returns from October 8–30, with magnificent displays of chrysanthemums in awe-inspiring shapes and styles. NYBG’s unforgettable presentation of kiku, trained to grow in a mesmerizing variety of forms and sizes, pays homage to hanami, the traditional Japanese custom of enjoying the ephemeral beauty of flowers.

These amazing floral sculptures, combined with all of the Botanical Garden’s natural attractions, beckon visitors to indulge in fall’s exquisite yet fleeting beauty. Intriguing installations of traditional kiku displays pioneered by the chrysanthemum masters at the Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden in Tokyo and re-created by the kiku experts at NYBG provide the opportunity for visitors to learn about the fascinating history of this storied flower as it traveled from its native China to Japan and ultimately to the West.

Larry Lederman

The New York Botanical Garden and The Board wishes to honor and salute Julie Andrews and Stephen Scanniello for their enduring passion for roses.

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THE EDIBLE ACADEMY FAMILY GARDEN PICNIC SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 25, 2016; 12:30–4:30 PM

For more information and tickets, please contact Heather Gries at 718.817.8657 or hgries@nybg.org or visit nybg.org/familypicnic

Carla Hall

NYBG has been a leader in organic vegetable gardening education for 60 years. Become a part of this long-standing tradition by bringing the whole family for an exciting culinary adventure in the Ruth Rea Howell Family Garden that supports a new initiative to promote healthful living.

The Edible Academy Family Garden Picnic Chairmen Noreen and Ahmar Ahmad Christina and Laurent de Marval Emma and Todd Goergen Annie and James Lansing Jennifer and Beau Lescott Amory and Sean McAndrew Allison and Roberto Mignone Kimberly and Jean Putzer Kate Solomon and David Wasserman Julia and Ted Weld

Bring the whole family for an afternoon of outdoor discovery, and join special guest Chef Carla Hall for culinary workshops and a delicious picnic featuring Carla Hall’s Southern Kitchen chicken. Activities for kids of any age abound, with kitchen crafts and games, organic vegetable gardening, live music, tree climbing, and so much more!

Proceeds from the Family Garden Picnic benefit NYBG’s Edible Academy, hub of the children’s organic vegetable gardening program.

Honorary Chairman Jill Joyce

Honorary Chairman of the Edible Academy Committee Mario Batali

Support provided by

Cooper Robertson

Founding Chairmen Julie and Nick Sakellariadis

The Edible Academy, and its planned state-of-the-art facility, will significantly expand the edible gardening program opportunities, so that twice as many children, parents, and teachers (from 50,000 to 100,000 annually) can learn how to grow organic fruits and vegetables, as well as make the important connections among plants, gardening, nutrition, and the benefits of a healthful lifestyle.

WINTER WONDERLAND BALL FRIDAY, DECEMBER 9, 2016; 7:30 PM

The Winter Wonderland Ball, named the “best party of the season,� has become synonymous with New York City glamour and nightlife.

For more information and tickets, please contact Heather Gries at 718.817.8657 or hgries@nybg.org or visit nybg.org/wwb

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1. Lubov Azria, Selita Ebanks 2. Ariana Rockefeller, Natalie Bloomingdale, Georgina Bloomberg 3. Julia Loomis, Seth Tringale 4. Dalia Oberlander, Julia Erdman 5. Christian Simmonds and Gillian Hearst Simmonds 6. Genevieve Bahrenburg, Peter Davis 7. Lindsay Ellingson 8. Carlie Cushnie 9. Andrew Warren, Natalie Jackson 10. Zack Thain, Karly Fitzgerald 11. Jack Fayer, Hannah Selleck 12. Sarah Chilton, Charlotte Chilton 13. Nina Haydock, Alexandra Porter, Liza Ketcham 14. Timo Weiland Photographed by the Billy Farrell Agency

SaluteS

Judy and Michael Steinhardt and

MitSubiShi corporation and

The New York Botanical Garden

YGL

THE YOUNG & THE GUEST LIST

BY ELIZABETH QUINN BROWN

Felicity Palmateer, Alessa Quizon, Laura Enever, and Courtney Conlogue at a weekend hosted by Billabong x John Frieda.

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CO U RTE S Y O F B I LL A B O N G WO M E N ’ S

BROWN

From left: Megan and Todd DiCiurcio; Diane Kruger and Andrew Saffir; and Georgina Chapman and Laura Michelle Kelly at Cinema

PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N

M A G DA LE N A K E R N A N ;

Society’s screening of Disorder.

▲ CINEMA SOCIETY SCREENED DISORDER

▼ BILLABONG X JOHN FRIEDA IN MONTAUK

ON AUGUST 9, DISORDER—A THRILLER starring Diane Kruger

MONTAUK WELCOMED the chicest of the chic (including Sha-

and Matthias Schoenaerts—was screened by the Cinema Society with IFC Films. After, the crowd (which included Georgina Chapman of Marchesa as well as Daniel Benedict and Andrew Saffir) convened at Jimmy at the James Hotel: a soirée with a scene, featuring cocktails shaken and/or stirred by Qui tequila.

Because, what’s better in summer than an hour (or two) of cinema with a side of skyline?

ron Kanter, Danielle Prescod, and Lauren Valenti) for “A Bikini Kinda Life,” a surf-themed weekend from Billabong and John Frieda with festivities at Gurney’s and The Surf Lodge. The event included a “braid bar” as well as a chance to “ride” with the likes of pros Courtney Conlogue, Laura Enever, Felicity Palmateer, and Alessa Quizon. Come Sunday, the #squad was sunkissed—and hesitant to say “vaya con dios” to the Hamptons. u

From left: Felicity Palmateer, Sharon Kanter, and Courtney Conlogue; Lauren Valenti; and Danielle Prescod at a weekend hosted by Billabong x John Frieda.

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At right: Amina Warsuma, Norma Jean Darden, Pat Cleveland, the designer Stephen Burrows, Charlene Dash, Alva Chinn, China Machado, Billie Blair, and Bethann Hardison were honored in 2011 by the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art for their “victory” at the 1973 landmark Versailles fashion show (above). That fashion show is the subject of a new documentary, Battle at Versailles, which premiered earlier this year.

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stage. The Americans, with nothing more than a minimal black backdrop, opened with Liza Minelli singing “Bonjour Paris.” She was followed by a multicultural rainbow of 36 American models, who, in a mere half hour, tapped into their own Studio 54–era energy and dazzled with a dynamic, vibrant, and seductive exuberance that caused the audience to erupt in cheers and stomping. The Americans, it was clear, had won, ushering in a new way of showing fashion.

Earlier this year, M2M, the new fashion TV channel from WME/IMG, premiered a documentary called Battle at Versailles, in which the story of these designers and their muses—who dared to defy convention and strut their stuff with a refreshing style—makes it powerfully clear that today’s fashion shows and editorials were modeled, so to speak, on a uniquely American way of doing things. —Daniel Cappello

R I G H T: C L I N T S PAU L D I N G / PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N

FORTY-THREE YEARS AGO, the legendary fashion publicist Eleanor Lambert teamed up with the Versailles curator Gerald van der Kemp to stage a fashion show that would raise funds for Versailles’s aging Théâtre Gabriel. On the day, November 28, 1973, the media focus was on the gala for that night, which attracted 800 fashion and aristocratic elites. The real story of the evening, however, was the fashion battle that would go down in history—between French and American style, pitting ancien régime French couturiers Christian Dior, Pierre Cardin, Hubert de Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent, and Emanuel Ungaro against American arrivistes Bill Blass, Stephen Burrows, Oscar de la Renta, Halston, and Anne Klein.

The French, true to form, presented their collections in a two-hour series of elaborate vignettes worthy of the opera

LE F T: H E L M U T N E W TO N / V O G U E , 1 9 7 3 © CO N D É N A S T P U B L I C AT I O N S

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The complete offering terms are in an offering plan available from sponsor. File no. CD13-0284. All rights to content, photographs, and graphics reserved to ABN Realty, LLC. 3D illustrations courtesy of McAuley Digital. Artist renderings and interior decoration, finishes, appliances, and furnishings are provided for illustrative purposes only. Artist renderings reflect the planned scale and spirit of the building. Sponsor reserves the right to make substitutions of materials, equipment, fixtures, and finishes in accordance with the terms of the offering plan. Equal Housing Opportunity.

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