Quest Magazine May 2023

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CONTENTS

Jewelry Issue

82 HOW ABOUT BREAKFAST AT TIFFANY’S? Tiffany & Co. announces the open ing of its newly transformed flagship on 57th Street and Fifth Avenue, now known as “The Landmark,” after a four-year refresh. By Jamie MacGuire

88 FACE BEHIND THE BAUBLES Sarah Bray-West drops in a lustrous list of jewelers in Palm Beach and Manhattan in search of the season’s brightest gems, consulting with each of the driving forces behind the brands. Produced by Brooke Kelly Murray & Elizabeth Meigher, Photographed by Julie Skarratt

100 THE BEST OF WATCHES & WONDERS Our favorite timepieces from the 2023 trade show in Geneva. by Brooke Kelly Murray

108 A TIME FOR POWER A collection of the variety of timepieces that defined our presidents from pocketwatches to wristwatches. by Elizabeth Quinn Brown

112 A BRILLIANT GUIDE TO JEWELRY Assouline’s new book, Jewelry Guide: The Ultimate Compendium by Fabienne Reybaud, covers everything jewelry enthusiasts need to know, including the Club of Fve and the Four Cs.

118 GREEN GLOW A look back at the enduring allure of emeralds and at Thames & Hudson’s book about them, Emeralds by David Patrick Columbia

HEXAGONAL VASE COLLECTION ASPREY.COM

questmag.com

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

DAVID PATRICK C O LUMBIA

DEPUTY EDITOR

ELIZABETH MEIGHER

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

TYKISCHA JACOBS

MANAGING EDITOR

BROOKE KELLY MURRAY

CHIEF TECHNOLOGY OFFICER

ROBERT BENDER

PHOTOGRAPHER-AT-LARGE

JULIE SKARRATT

SOCIETY EDITOR

HI LARY GEARY

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

HARRY BENSON

JAYNE CHASE

KATE GUBELMANN

TONY HALL

ALEX HITZ

ROBERT JANJIGIAN

RICHARD JOHNSON

KAREN KLOPP

JAMES MACGUIRE

HAVEN PELL

CHUCK PFEIFER

DAISY PRINCE

LIZ SMITH (R.I.P.)

TAKI THEODORACOPULOS

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

HARRY BENSON

CAPEHART PHOTOGRAPHY

BILLY FARRELL

MARY HILLIARD

CRISTINA MACAYA

CUTTY MCGILL

PATRICK MCMULLAN

NICK MELE

ANNIE WATT

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© QUEST MEDIA, LLC 2023. All rights reserved. Vol. 37, No 5.

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offices, our stalwart editorial team has been deservedly rewarded for their dogged and successful teamwork, with Brooke Kelly Murray now carrying the mantle of Managing Editor, and Tykischa Jacobs sporting a coveted masthead plum as Quest’s Creative Director. Our Quest family salutes these two wunderkind professionals, and we hope you will too. As you’ve read here before, Quest abhors virtue signaling; rather, we believe in a meritocracy based on smart work and contributions that exhibit a sense of purpose - values that have served us well for 38+ years.

In May we celebrate our 26th annual fine jewelry number, as this sector of the luxury universe continues to outperform and exceed all expectations. As we have previously commented, for most women there are few greater passions than their emotional bond with baubles (husbands and partners need step aside :) In our pages ahead, we report on several of the industry’s most prominent and trusted leaders, photographed by Quest’s photovirtuoso Julie Skarratt who has candidly captured these style setters plying their extravagant trade. As our May cover “sneak previews”, the smart-set buzz around Manhattan is wholly focused on LVMH’s successful retrofit of Tiffany & Co., which last week reopened its Fifth Avenue doors after a prolonged and extensive remake by their elegant and incomparable owners, the multi-talented family of Bernard Arnault. Quest’s judiciously wizened columnist, Jamie MacGuire (known to you insiders as “Audax”) has penned an early peek at the new “T&Co” venue, where his well respected brother Pierce spent over 40 years introducing the fine originals of gemology giants Elsa Perretti and Paloma Picasso. The proof is in the pudding, dear readers, and the end result of Tiffany’s evolution has been well worth the wait!

Several more of our eminent columnists are found throughout this bauble-icious issue, including DPC’s revealing recollection of Joan Crawford’s run-in with the East River’s iconic Pepsi-Cola sign ... Richard Johnson’s amusing tour of duty during the neverending Palm Beach season ... plus Taki’s incisive diatribe re: the relentless dumbing down of American newspapers. Quoting our celebrated Greek seer: “When I was in school, we pledged allegiance to the flag ... but now the term ‘American’ is seen as harmful language”. One of Taki’s journalistic mentors was the ever erudite William F. Buckley, a loyal Quest reader himself, who once defined citizenship as the “union of privilege and responsibilitythe core of American exceptionalism”. Wise words to remember, especially as the reading and viewing world becomes increasingly “unsocial” - turning inward to smaller networks and journals that restore one’s identity and sense of community. ◆

Chris Meigher

ON THE COVER:

Audrey Hepburn stares in the window of Tiffany’s flagship store at 727 Fifth Avenue in the opening scene of George Axelrod’s Breakfast at Tiffany’s, 1961, adapted from Truman Capote’s 1958 novella of the same name (Paramount Pictures).

Clockwise from bottom left: Graff’s Carissa Robinson; Pierce and Jamie MacGuire; Alexandre and Bernard Arnault; a rendering of Tiffany’s new flagship; Tiffany’s flagship, circa 1890; David Patrick Columbia; Richard Johnson and Taki Theodoracopulos; Tykischa Jacobs; Julie Skarratt, Elizabeth Meigher, and Brooke Murray on Worth Avenue during the May photoshoot.

David Patrick Columbia NEW YORK SO CIAL DIARY

FOR THE RECORD,

New York had no snow this winter save for three brief snow showers lasting for no more than an hour or two max—and melting as soon as it hit the ground. But April with its showers and some early summer tem -

peratures has brought us to lovely May when the social season in the city hits its stride.

Life in the big town. That Friday night I was invited to a St. Patrick’s Day dinner hosted by  Susan Gutfreund  at her apartment overlook -

ing the East River and Queens and Brooklyn. It’s one of the great views of New York, especially these days with the boroughs of Long Island City, Williamsburg, and Brooklyn now sporting the bright lights of their newer rising business

and residential towers that match Manhattan’s.

There were 18 at Mrs. Gutfreund’s table – and a grand one it is that can seat 18 comfortably. Because of the “holiday” there was still a parade and the after-parties bursting the walls of the

CELEBRATING EASTER AT DOUBLES IN NEW YORK

Meghan Klopp

Caroline Meade

Elizabeth Darst

Lauren Neinstein, Kate Earls and Catherine Boulud

Whitney Wolfe

Stephanie Stamos, Melanie McLennan and Dustee Jenkins

Melanie McLennan

local saloons.

Susan put together an “Irish” menu prepared by her excellent chef. Irish it was—the menu that is— in the case of this menu, including the starter and the dessert, meant the color GREEN. Everything. Except for the main course, which was of course Corned Beef and Cabbage.

Susan’s dinner table is often set for 16 to 18, and abounds with conversations. That Friday night our hostess toasted the holiday by first asking if any guests were of Irish descent.

Only two raised their

hand—this writer being one of them. Because it occurred so quickly –hand up, hand down – I never saw who the other exception was because she was at the other end of the table, and everyone was talking. Like all of Susan’s dinners, it was full of active conversations and a broad variety of guests and interests including some from across the seas.

After the dessert course, guests moved back to the living room

where the final serving was… Irish coffee! Before taking a seat, however, I went out to the terrace to take a picture of the fantastic view that extends from mid-Manhattan south all the way to the Statue of Liberty.

Directly across from the River House on the Queens side, are bright red neon lights of the now generations-old Pepsi-Cola sign. It is the sole commercial promotion in the vast view and directed at

some of the most exclusive neighborhoods of the city on the Manhattan side.

There is a long held story that the sign’s location was directed specifically to that fashionable high rent section of Manhattan’s Upper East Side—by  Joan Crawford —yes,  that  Joan Crawford of Hollywood fame and fortune.

Late in her film career, Crawford in the mid1950s married  Alfred N. Steele  who was then CEO of Pepsi. (It was a brief marriage – Steele died suddenly four years later at age 58).

Joan Crawford

PEGGY ADAMS ANIMAL RESCUE LEAGUE'S HAPPY TAILS EVENT IN PALM BEACH

Dan Ponton and Sue Berry

Lesly Smith and Mayor Dani Moore

Callie Baker Holt with Elizabeth Meigher

Emilia Fanjul Pfeifler

Joanie Van der Grift and Carol McCracken

Stephanie and Steve Shafran

Julie Connors

Crawford, then a widow, had become actively involved in promoting Pepsi, then the main competitor of Coca-Cola. In the early ’50s with her publicizing assistance, Steele had increased Pepsi’s sales figures by 11 times, making it Coca Cola’s major competitor.

After her husband’s death she became a director of the company, and continued her promotions. It was at that time that she also decided she’d like an apartment in the River House which sits imperially at the foot of East 52nd Street overlooking the River and with magnificent views of

the borough of Queens, as well as Williamsburg and Brooklyn.

Crawford’s bid to buy an apartment at the River House, however, was turned down by the (then) board. Not pleased with the decision, which she took as a snub, it was said that it was she who had the big, bright red Pepsi sign placed in that specific location so that everyday the River House Board who turned her down could come home to the site across the river—a big, flashy bright

red bottled soda sign— every night of their lives.

Crawford herself took up residence in an spacious penthouse at 2 East 70th Street on the corner of Fifth Avenue with a magnificent view of Central Park. Now, more than 60 years later, the Pepsi sign, rather than annoying the residents of the Upper East Side, is a wonderful landmark, a piece of American art, and a signal that Pepsi remains a major advertiser in the world market all these decades later.

So everybody won in the end.

Down among the sheltering palms, that is, the palms of Palm Beach experienced a bull market winter in the social season. It wasn’t the first year of rising real estate prices to accommodate the growing numbers. But this year there was a strong sense of the newness, including lots of new faces—making it more interesting for everybody, and more “of the moment.”

Besides forking over larger than large sums for the leap in PB real estate prices, there was the leap in prominent New York

Pepsi-Cola sign in Queens

MUSEUM OF ARTS AND DESIGN CELEBRATES SPRING EXHIBITIONS IN NEW YORK

Barbara Tober

John Kern

Sofia Reyes

Elissa Auther

Beau McCall, Barbara Paris Gifford and Souleo

Michele Cohen, George Padilla and Willow Holdorf

Lydia Brawner

restaurants opening up to accommodate the growing crowds. Many business people are also moving their businesses down there, and taking up year-round residency to avoid the taxes on the multi-multimillion dollar incomes they’re paying in most states.

Palm Beach was developed in the last decade of the 19th century by  Henry Flagler  – the original developer (and land owner) of the island. He discovered the jungle island in the late 1880s when he was searching for land to lay his railroad tracks to the keys.

Flagler had started out in life as a founding partner with  John D. Rockefeller  in developing

what became Standard Oil out in Cleveland. It was the very beginning of the greatest economic transformation of the entire civilization with the United States at the helm.

Flagler gave the new business its name when they began acquiring more wells. When he left the company with his fortune in the last decade of the 19th century, he’d started acquiring small local railroad companies along the East Coast.

He was of the first American generations of entrepreneurs and real

estate tycoons. Railroads were that era’s decades of rockets to the moon. They were changing the world and followed by its natural offspring, the automobile. More everything and eventually everyone changed.

Flagler and his wife discovered Florida and the climate that anyone up north could love. He built a house and a hotel St. Augustine. Most of Florida was still wilderness and largely a tropical jungle with snakes and alligators. But men like Flagler never considered that. Standard Oil had

been his passage and he was now an authentic tycoon.

His objective in developing this potential paradise was to have tracks all the way to bottom of the state and Florida Keys, and to develop it as resorts for wealthy northerners.

When he came upon the island that would become Palm Beach, he was amazed by this wild jungle of island that was replete with groves of coconut trees along the beach—left by Mother Nature after a shipwreck of coconuts going to Europe in earlier days. Flagler began acquiring piece by piece of the island until he owned most it. With a work force  of

Lauren Day Roberts

Sarah Foster, Lisa White and Laura Lee Boone

Sharon Bush and Bob Murray

OUT EAST'S LAUNCH PARTY AT THE COLONY PALM BEACH

Blake Langberg and Ashley Longshore

Cori Lee Seaberg and Sarah Wetenhall Nikki Cooney and Bridget Borman

Henry Flagler

old-world

is a reflection of the

The Charlotte Inn’s

ambiance

Edwardian-era. Made up of seventeen guest rooms and two suites, the original 1864 house, The Summer House, Carriage House, and Coach House. Tucked away on a side street in downtown Edgartown, the inn is filled with collections of fine art, surrounded by classic gardens, and furnished with English antiques.

Martha’s Vineyard

men, mainly black, who had a community they’d already set up on the island, he built the first grand hotel.

When the hotel was finished and the streets were laid out on the new Palm Beach, employees and their families, as a reward for their work, were “treated” to a ferry boat ride across the water to West Palm for a party and some time off—vacation in what was then a very small community across Lake Worth.

While “vacationing,” unbeknownst to the workers, all of their

buildings which sheltered them as a little neighborhood, were emptied of their belongings, and the buildings were razed to ground.

It was on that trip that the “vacationing” workers learned their new official residency would be in West Palm.

Today, almost a century and a half later, Palm Beach and West Palm are becoming integrated

luxury real estate-wise, and the social activity is now found (along with houses selling in the multi-millions) on both sides of the water.

Mr. Flagler’s jungle island is now the center of greater Palm Beach.

I’m not a frequent visitor but it’s easy to see why people love it. And now with more people (new people) and many more

restaurants to curry their appetites favor the place is now, like in the lyrics of the song  “back-to-back and belly-to-belly.”  Very chic nevertheless.

Before putting together this Diary, I asked a friend, a years and years/ longtime resident what the “new” Palm Beach is like these days.

His response:  … and his insight –  “I do see more young folks floating about … employees and junior partners of these financial firms opening Southern outpost offices. Today, the Related Company is

THE SALVATION ARMY'S BRITISH INVASION BASH IN WEST PALM BEACH

Harry Benson

Susan Cushing and Heidi Green

Joan Parker, Holly Holden and Kristen McDermott

Lee and Cece Black

Farley Rentschler and Gigi Benson

Chip Hall and Camilla Webster

Palm Beach's early days

THROUGH AUG 27, 2023

Generation Paper: A Fashion Phenom of the 1960s is organized by Phoenix Art Museum. Unless otherwise noted, all embellishments were made by Phoenix Art Museum. Support for Generation Paper is provided by Jill Bayer Ciporin and Daniel T. Ciporin, Mars Manufacturing. The exhibition is made possible, in part, by public funds from the New York City Department of Cultural Affairs in partnership with the City Council and the New York State Council on the Arts with the support of the Office of the Governor and the New York State Legislature. Media support provided by Branded Cities.

Unknown, Dress, 1960s. Collection of Phoenix Art Museum, Gift of Mrs. Kelly Ellman. Image © Phoenix Art Museum, Photo: Airi Ka tsuta.

re-fashioning West Palm Beach across Lake Worth.

“ El Presidente is in his fishbowl still surrounded by his prettied up partiers while he whizzes past the flag waving great unwashed on his way to 36 holes of golf most every day…  Melania  I hear is in the Spa every hour that he is on the golf course. A friend’s son is a classmate of their son  Barron … and it’s said he has a great sense of humor and is a good athlete … his mother keeps him well hidden

from the paps.

“Every politician across the spectrum has made the pilgrimage to the island this season, hat in hand, hoovering up campaign cash … conferences at The Breakers, private dinners, think tank weekends at the Four Seasons … recent arrivals being drafted to Chair the Charity fundraisers ... Dames and gents all hoping for

more Tom Ford sightings now that he is a neighbor.

“Californians are as common as Cuban coffee … they are loving the tax savings and the only tents they have to stumble around are pretty fringed beauties from Jaipur giving a bit of cozy ambiance to the drinks table at the end of the pool.

“There will soon be the

annual mass migration to all the usual summertime destinations  … although Paris seems a dirty mess right now; Turkey a bigger mess and London for the wannabes who are hoping for a brush with Coronation gold … Tangier has gone completely Gay; Marrakech for the newly rich … I’m hearing Scotland, the West Coast of Ireland and Comporta in Portugal if you’re sick of East Hampton, ACK or Mykonos

“Then next autumn, it’s back to the Palm Beaches

Melania Trump

ALBA DINNERS AT THE PALM BEACH BOAT SHOW

Jenna Steffens and Anthony Tivnan

Kai Lassen and Bettina Anderson

Chris Princis and Alice Hampton

Robert and Maria Barthelmess

Morgan Lydon and Heather Hauswirth

Grace Meigher and Richard Johnson

CAPEHART

for the wintertime action.”

Lunch talk at Sette Mezzo with  Maria Cooper Janis . For those who are not familiar with her name, Maria – of my generation who grew up in Hollywood, specifically in Brentwood – where her father was one of the most famous American movie stars of the 20th century:  Gary Cooper . For many Americans, as the daughter and only child, she was often seen and photographed with her father and her mother  Rocky Cooper

I met her here in New

York a number of years ago – at Elaine’s one night at a table of friends. By then Maria had long before married  Byron Janis  and lived here in Manhattan.

Whenever we meet for lunch and conversation, inevitably the subject is mainly Hollywood of that golden era of filmmaking. Although I lived out there for only 14 years, Maria grew up in the thick of it; and because I had the pleasure of meet -

ing a number of the people who were part of that history, we always have enough to talk about the history of our time and the American film industry.

Conversation was mainly about Hollywood, that fated town of stardom, and my experience out there— the wild variety of people I met. I was reminded of meeting  Lillian Hellman , world famous playwright, screenwriter, novelist. She was re -

garded forever thereafter as having very strong far left (that era of “left,” not to be confused the current version) political opinions. For me the meeting was classic Hollywood dinner party talk with classic characters doing the talking...

The first time I met Lillian was on a Sunday when Lady Sarah Churchill invited me to join her at a brunch that  Marti Stevens  was having at her house in the Palisades. The lure for me? Lillian would be there.

Marti’s father,  Nick

Maria Cooper Janis

SOCIETY OF MEMORIAL SLOAN KETTERING'S ANNUAL BUNNY HOP IN NEW YORK

Beth Blake Day and Alexis McAndrews

Muffie Potter Aston and Austen Cruz

Chrissy Crawford and Eugenia Richman

Karen Thornwell May and Lucinda May

Joanna de Neufville

Virginia Tomenson

Schenck,  ran Loew's, Inc., which owned MGM, and her uncle  Joe Schenck  founded what became 20th Century-Fox with  LB Mayer , for  Darryl Zanuck  and Mayer’s sonin-law  Bill Goetz . Marti was a real child of Hollywood.

She was also an accomplished actress, especially on the musical comedy stage here and in London. Having grown up in the business and then having a career, she had a great variety of friends who were actors, authors, directors, composers,

and lyricists as well as society people.

Lillian Hellman by then (about 1981) was in her late 70s and something of a legend as well as a best-selling author, if somewhat too nettlesome for some people (namely fellow authors).

I had read her books and had seen a couple of her plays when they were made into films. She was her own woman and she was good.

Her face was famous

by then, as she was not infrequently a guest on television talk shows and interviews. Naturally I was curious to meet her.  Marti’s house in the Palisades had once belonged to the English actress and musical comedy star,  Gladys Cooper , and was on the Riviera Country Club golf course. It was a small but rambling clapboard house that had probably been built earlier in the 20th century as someone’s country cot -

tage. It reminded me of the lakeside cottages in New England — painted rustic, minimal but cozy, and comfortable with lots of paned windows, which in this case looked over the golf course.

There were about 10 guests for brunch including  Anthony Andrews , who had recently become famous in the PBS production of “Brideshead Revisited.”

First meeting Lillian was uneventful. I don’t recall much conversation with her personally, but it was a small group and everyone was chat -

Lillian Hellman

KIPS BAY BOYS & GIRLS CLUB PRESIDENT’S DINNER IN NEW YORK

Alvin Wayne and Keia McSwain

Margaret Russell and Bryan Sawyer Jill Cohen, Jesse Carrier, Mara Miller and Alexa Hampton

Hannah Bronfman

Jessica Davis, Christina Kim and Byron Risdon

Philip Gorrivian and Joy Moyler

ting with everyone else. Brunch was entirely improvised after the guests had arrived.

Lillian, whose eyesight was failing, volunteered to do the scrambled eggs, claiming that she was very good at it. No one would argue with her although I noticed that Marti and Sarah were concerned about her ability to see what she was doing. She also smoked a lot. Frequently. Almost all the time. Like those photos of people in the ’30s and ’40s and ’50s, she often had a cigarette in her hand. And in these days, her cigarette was

usually a marijuana joint. I don’t recall anyone being surprised or taken aback by it, but then she was Lillian Hellman, older than the rest of us and clearly didn’t care what anybody thought anyway.

Nevertheless at the stove with the frying pan in front of her with the eggs scrambling, she was smoking a joint and occasionally flicking the ashes in the garnishes for the eggs that Sarah had chopped up and put on

the side of the stove. This caused a greater alertness over Lillian’s movements although no one said anything (and those who were watching got a good laugh out of it).

Breakfast/ brunch was great with everyone around the table on this particular bright sunny Sunday noontime.

The second time I saw Lillian was at a dinner party Lady Sarah gave one Saturday night at her house in Beverly

Hills. Lillian came with her great friend, the writer  Peter Feibleman  (who later published a memoir about her: “Lilly”). She quickly settled comfortably into one of Sarah’s bergeres, pulled out a joint, lit up, and conversation flowed. I loved talking to her because she had no airs about her, was very responsive to any question and had well-defined and authoritative opinions on subjects that interested her. She also had an obvious fondness for tweaking the conventional.

It happened that night was also the pre-Broad -

Sarah Churchill

PROMISE FUND'S DONOR DINNER IN PALM BEACH

Amy Young and Karen Patti

Sam Michaels and Eric Brinker

Julie and Peter Cummings

Nancy Brinker and Michael Zinner

Paulette Koch and Olga Villaverde

Yolette and Joseph Bonnet

way opening of  Elizabeth Taylor ’s first stage appearance in a revival of Hellman’s “The Little Foxes” at a theater in Florida. By the time we finished the first course at dinner, Sarah’s butler informed Miss Hellman that she had a phone call from the producer with his report of the performance. This was an exciting moment at the table. Lillian came back and told everyone that Taylor was a big hit (surprise, surprise), and she was very pleased.  She pulled another joint out of her pack

(they had all been prerolled for her) and lit up.

In those days, 30 years ago, people still smoked cigarettes at the dinner table, even at dinner parties. Usually they waited until a course was finished, or the dinner was finished, but there were those who couldn’t and didn’t wait. Lillian Hellman was one of them. She never seemed to be “high” or out of character, and she wasn’t one to deeply inhale as if

it'd indicate that she was having a toke. She claimed that she smoked marijuana because it was helpful with her glaucoma. She was a very serious woman in her natural demeanor and it would never occur to anybody to (dare to) question her explanation.

Dinner conversation that night eventually came around to politics. People could still discuss politics in a non-partisan way in those

days, and  Ronald Reagan  had recently been inaugurated President. Among the guests that night were wellknown Reagan friends and supporters such as the  Alfred Bloomingdales  and the  Armand Deutsches . At the point where the subject was active, Lillian, who up until then had refrained from expressing her opinion, put out her cigarette and said to nobody in particular: “It doesn’t matter, the whole world will be communist in 50 years.”

Lillian Hellman’s relationship to “communist”

Ronald Reagan

FUNDS' BALL IN PALM BEACH

Hillie Mahoney and Ambassador Geraldine Byrne Nason

Loretta Brennan Glucksman and Leslie Quick

Sheila O'Malley Fuchs and Joe Fuchs

Mary Quick and Peter Daras

Sondra and David Mack with Eileen Burns

Lore Dodge and Tricia Quick

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MAKE A STATEMENT CONVERSATION PIECES WORTH INVESTING IN

Name Goes Here And Here

If you look at any room in your house and can’t find a focal point, you might be missing a statement piece. With a singular element, you can create drama, visual interest, or tie an entire design scheme together. From lighting fixtures to vintage treasures, here are some of our favorite pieces to elevate any space.

The easiest way to fill a room is with light! Hang a chandelier in the style of your choice for a sense of occasion. For an even more nuanced change, opt for color-changing smart bulbs with mood settings to go from cozy coffeehouse vibes to natural sunlight in seconds.

With the comeback of bold shapes and streamlined designs inspired by the timeless appeal of Mid-Century Modern, there’s no time like the present to invest in the real thing. Do your research on the most coveted pieces of that time period like the Wassily chair or the Noguchi Table.

Effortlessly layer a new pattern or color into your living room with a statement rug. Depending on your scheme, you can pick something more graphic or ornamental for a neutral space or tie together a monochromatic scheme with a solid color.

No matter what style you’re trying to achieve, finding authentic vintage pieces will not only add character to your room but mystique and intrigue from the story behind it. From bold art pieces for your foyer, oversized mirrors for a grandeur bathroom, or even an upholstered headboard for a luxurious place to lay your head. The possibilities are endless. Peruse your local thrift stores or use an online store like 1stdibs.com for a curated selection.

-GW Interiors @gilwalshinteriors

was a major bugaboo during the Cold War witch hunts of the 1950s.  But I got the feeling when she put that out to the table, which was occupied by several people with close ties to the British and American governments, that she was being not provocative so much as “bratty.” Tweak tweak.

She knew what she thought and wasn’t perturbed by it, but she knew it could annoy others. Whether or not it did that night in Beverly Hills was unknown to me. Everyone treated Lillian Hellman respectfully, or discreetly ignored her. It didn’t seem as if she cared how they felt one way or the other, however; she was just enjoying herself.

Despite her potentially dogmatic

way of thinking, she was an entirely charming woman to share company with. She was friendly and loved a good laugh. She was smart and hip. She treated everyone including her much younger dinner partners like friends. She was self-assured the way you expect a distinguished, accomplished artist of a certain age might be.

I don’t recall ever seeing her again after that night at Sarah’s dinner. She was already in failing health. Peter Feibleman was more than a friend but like family, a generation younger, as if a son. Despite her physical infirmities, she was a gregarious woman who loved good company and, no doubt, by then, a good joint for her glaucoma. ◆

THE ROYAL POINCIANA PLAZA'S EGG HUNT IN PALM BEACH

Jennifer Rodriguez, Mona Nasser, Nora Baghdan and Elizabeth Rodriguez

Lori Berg, Jamie Coulter, Lindsey McClain and Dana Filetti

Amanda Beckwith and DJ Adam Lipson with their daughter

Rebecca Hessel Cohen

Lizzi Bickford Meadow and Lillian Meadow

A Colorful Approach to Classic Design

Helmed by award-winning designer Gil Walsh, GW Interiors marries classic design principles and risk-taking execution to create a timeless space inspired by a life well lived, so you can live colorfully.

TOASTING RADIANCE AT THE COLONY PALM BEACH

Robin Baker Leacock

Kara Ross and Susan Magrino

Pamela Taylor Yates and Eleanora Kennedy

Kim Renk and Mark Gilbertson

Elizabeth Fekkai and Henry Buhl

Hilary Dick and Trish Carroll Mary Hilliard and Tom Quick Jennifer Ash Rudick

Peggy Siegal, Robert Caravaggi and Katherine Bryan

ADAPT LEADERSHIP AWARDS IN NEW YORK

Allie Stroker and Willie Geist Kathryn Beal, Liz Cohen Hausman, Fernanda Niven, Tanya Rivero Warren, Yesim Phillips and Blair Hussain

Jeanine Salvatore, Jimmy Hausmanm and Louis Salvatore

Kori Chambers and Tamsen Fadal Yulia and Steve Clark

Susan Lucci

Lo'renzo Hill-White

BOYS & GIRLS CLUBS OF PALM BEACH'S BAREFOOT ON THE BEACH EVENT

Olympia Shields Bishop, Brooks Bishop and Wilder Regalbuto

Trish Donnelley and Douglas Dockham Lorna and Mayor Keith James

Hillary Thomas and Reid Boren Jim and Judy Harpel

David and Kristin Lambert Michelle and Peter Farmer

JEAN-GEORGES VONGERICHTEN’S LATEST MANHATTAN VENTURE, PERRY ST. THE RESTAURANT IS BATHED IN NEUTRAL COLORS, PREDOMINATED BY A CALM, BONE-COLORE

DALLAS ART MUSEUM'S ANNUAL BALL

Christine Beauchamp and Brian Bolke

David Nash, Moll Anderson and Paul Andrew

Agustín Arteaga, Ramiro Garcia and Carlos Gonzalez-Jamie

Shelby Goff, Audrey Defforey and Holly Harris

Howard Rachofsky and Deedie Rose

Meghan Looney and Geoffroy van Raemdonck

Cornelia Guest

Bela Cooley and Alvise Orsini

IT SEEMS LIKE YESTERDAY

ELSA PERETTI. INCOMPARABLE. Her name alone conjures up classic designs for Tiffany & Co.—Diamonds by the Yard, “Bone” cuff, “Bean” box, “Whip” belt, “Thumbprint” bowl. All unmistakably “Elsa.”

John Loring, design director emeritus of Tiffany & Co., commented to me about the firm’s legendary designer: “Elsa Peretti’s unerring sense of stylishness, sensuality, and glamour has brightened the lives of Tiffany customers for

50 years. Since her debut in 1974, her Modernist, unorthodox, and refreshing viewpoint brought a new dazzle to jewelry design and had the greatest impact on fashion of any jewelry designer of the 20th century. Timeless yet timely, fashionable and at the same time above fashion, the sheer perfection of her iconic designs—the ‘Floating Heart,’ ‘Teardrop,’ and ‘Bean’ among them—continue to dazzle.”

When I arrived to photograph her, she was full of fun

HARRY

right away. Laughter. She made everyone in the room happy. She posed. There was nothing self-conscious about her. I knew I was dealing with a very creative person; I wanted it to carry on and not stop. Instinctively, I knew that there was no way anyone around her could be boring.

She had on jeans and a white shirt. Then, she changed into an antique Japanese kimono. That was the photograph I really concentrated on, and it is the photograph you see here.

When I started to leave, she slipped off the kimono and said, “You know, you should have this.” I put it on, it fit, and I was delighted to have it.

That evening, I showed it to my wife, Gigi, who snatched it off of me, and that was the end of its belonging it to me. The moral of this, I’ve learned, is: If a beautiful, talented, Italian designer gives you a kimono, don’t show it to your wife. And that’s the story. u

FREUD AND FRAUDS

IS IT POOR LITTLE ol’ me imagining things, or are Americans becoming stupider by the minute? I’ve been traveling and running into the species, and I swear that the most intelligent thing I’ve heard recently from a New Yorker is “Like, you know, like, uh, you know, uh, like, uh…” This moron was talking in a loud voice and did not give the impression of having been hit rather hard over the head with a

baseball bat, but there he was, just another inarticulate and tongue-tied youngster showing signs of early dementia due to watching too much television. Mind you, once upon a time American “exceptionalism” led the New World’s ascendancy in a number of fields, including the arts. So what happened? A very difficult question to answer, but the “gringos” seem to be inured to brain-deadening TV and

movies, hamburgers, celebrity worship, drugs, antidepressants, videogames, #MeTooism, and psychoanalysis.

Let’s take it from the top: There has to be something very sick with someone who is so desperate to belong that they apply, beg, cajole, offer bribes, and debase themselves to those who are already members in order to join…a gym. I read somewhere how some fitness cen-

Sigmund Freud in his office in Vienna, 1937.

ters in the States now refer to themselves as wellness destinations, and pathetic wannabes go through such exertions in order to join. Back in the good old days, joining a gym was automatic, but now it’s a status symbol. It is hard to believe the sweat one has to go through in order to eventually sweat. Only in America, as the saying goes.

But why am I surprised? Most of the people one sees in the street are high on pot or stronger stuff. The few who are sober, or so it seems to me, are in even more trouble: They’re seeking analytic treatment. There are 106,000 licensed psychologists in the United States, and more and more are applying for licens-

my wife and would never leave her, but whenever I saw a pretty girl all bets were off. Just as I said it, she let out a shriek and collapsed on her sofa. Aha, I said to myself, the truth hurts and they cannot handle it. But I was wrong. Months went by before Alexandra informed me that the shrink collapsed because she had just passed a kidney stone.

Never mind. Some American feminists are now calling all that Freudian crap patriarchal garbage, and that makes me feel like seeing a shrink as I’m torn about who is worse, the militant feminists or the Freudians. But enough about Freud and frauds; trying to always be a bit happier is a unique American perver-

giance to the flag and took it for granted that we were on God’s side. Now, as is the case with Stanford University, the term “American” is seen as “harmful language.”

And good old Britain, once known for its restraint and understatement, is not far behind. Frivolous and absurd human beings are going after Britain’s past with a vengeance; all one has to do is watch British TV or listen to the unfunny vulgarians who are called comedians nowadays. The irony in America is that close to 60 percent of people 65 years and older still believe very strongly in religion and patriotism. Which means the battle lines have been drawn, at least as far as

es as the American dream goes up in smoke. Being a shrink has to be the greatest con ever, as one sits in a room with a patient who talks for an hour and then pays $400-plus for the privilege. The Europeans may have invented this swindle, but the Americans have perfected it.

There is no proof, according to the great psychoanalyst professor Dr. Taki, and no magic bullet for mental health. The one time I was in a shrink’s company it was a social occasion, and I had been asked to speak with her by the mother of my children. This was a very long time ago, and the lady shrink was a friend of Alexandra, who had mentioned to her my skirt chasing. We had a pleasant little chat and I admitted to her that I loved

sion, just as is vulgarity and hyperbole. What is in retreat in America is religion and long-held core values. By contrast, the only value that keeps on growing in stature is money. Children are deemed less important now, as is patriotism, especially among young Americans who think individualism and a sense of entitlement are far more important.

No wonder I have not made a new American friend since JFK was in the White House. Back then, victimhood was not only inadmissible; people did not brag about it, as they do now. Looking back, I never saw this coming. Young people today—or so I’m told—are taught to apologize for their country’s history. When I was in school we pledged alle-

I’m concerned. Young versus old, something I never thought I’d see because I’ve always loved young people—okay, young women—and at an advanced age I still think and act like a young man.

So, what is to be done? The daily Goebbels-like propaganda against white males and the police by Hollywood and the media has outdone even the limping Nazi doctor. Consult Dr. Taki, never believe a word the Bagel  Times or  The Washington Post publishes, do not watch television except for Fox News, and when asked who is your favorite American statesman, answer Robert E. Lee. He’s certainly mine. u

For more Taki, visit takimag.com.

From left: A 1920s The New York ; the exterior of The Washington Post building at One Franklin Square, 2015; John F. Kennedy sailing with Jackie Kennedy Onassis.

RICHARD JOHNSON has settled in at Palm Beach’s Pink Paradise (otherwise known as the legendary Colony Hotel). He is penning a tri-weekly column from his table at Swifty's on questmag.com, brimming with everything under the sun—from people, parties, and fashion… to philanthropy, polo, and all worth noting within the realm of Palm Beach’s ever growing playground.

ALBA’S DINNER

AT PALM BEACH YACHT CLUB

HEATHER HAUSWIRTH used to work with me at a New York newspaper. I hadn’t seen her in a few years. But she turned up at the Palm Beach Yacht Club last month. Hauswirth is now the director of sales and marketing for Triton Submarines. “We’re building dreams,” she told me.

Triton recently acquired Pagoo , the submarine the late Paul Allen kept on his 414 ft. yacht, Octopus . The 40 ft. long, 40 ton sub is rumored to have cost $30 million to build. “It looks like a private jet,” she said. Unlike the old windowless submarines that could cause claustrophobia, the new ones have plenty of glass. “You feel like you can reach out and touch the whale,” said Hauswirth.

The dinner was hosted by Kenny Baboun, the savvy and successful developer of Alba, a 22-story condo going up (just above the fabled Rybovich Yacht Yard) with 55 units starting at around $3 million. Baboun favors more intimate properties where the owners share common values, as well as hallways.

Among the other guests were Adil Avunduk, of the everexpanding Sant Ambroeus restaurant group, Jane Scher, mother of most happy divorcee Libbie Mugrabi, and the stunning Shari Anne Liu with her financier husband, Fred Fellows.

On the following evening, to add further perspective from the water, Doug Gray of Barton & Gray invited me onboard their new Daychaser yacht (a 48’ mahogany trimmed and seaworthy gem) for a cruise up to the Alba development site. It’s a winning location, with 10 boat slips already in place for Alba’s more nautically inclined

Clockwise from top left: Heather Hauswirth; cruising to Alba onboard Barton & Gray’s new Daychaser yacht with Doug Gray waving Ahoy!; Shari Liu Fellows and Kenny Baboun. Opposite page: Alba Palm Beach.

owners. Capt’n Doug keenly quipped: “Our yachts can pick up Barton & Gray members right at their doorsteps”. And not one wet foot.

ALA VON AUERSPERG started her career in fashion … as a painter.

The daughter of Sunny von Bülow, whose husband Claus von Bülow was accused of trying to murder his wife, admits, “I knew nothing to begin with. I really started out painting, and then a fashion friend queried, ‘Why don’t you try these designs on fabric?” That was over nine years ago, when her design line began to take off. “My audience was really women over 35 who want clothes that are flattering and comfortable,” Ala said over lunch at Swifty’s at the Colony Hotel. And she now has the pleasure of working with her daughter Sunny. “We see the business very much alike, and sometimes we can finish each other’s sentences,” said Ala.

AvA’s growing business success with dresses and slacks is leading to a range of accessories, plus collaborations with other designers. Ala emphasized, “Big picture … It’s about empowering women, and making them feel good about themselves” … a far happier ending than the 1990 movie script of Reversal of Fortune that starred Glenn Close as her mother Sunny.

It’s plain to see that AvA is a thriving business and not a mere hobby; yet, when not consumed with creating new prints and patterns in Palm Beach or New York, Ala and her banker husband Ralph Isham enjoy life in Antigua … far from the madding crowd.

Clockwise from above: Ala Isham with her daughter, Sunny Zweig; an Isham family photo; Ala’s mother, Sunny von Bülow.

STEPHANIE SEYMOUR & PETER BRANT

SUPERMODEL STEPHANIE SEYMOUR and her poloplaying husband Peter Brant are moving up.

They have put their old Palm Beach mansion on the market for $28 million to move into the estate they bought three years ago for $47 million. It took that long to renovate.

Their old place was truly old. The 7,200 sq. ft. house at 245 Dunbar Road, known as Buttonwood, was built in 1904 and dragged over logs from its original lakeside site on Emerald Lane. It was the home of the town’s first mayor, E.N. Dimick.

Liza Pulitzer, of Brown Harris Stevens, who has the listing, is familiar with the property. Her then husband Bob Leidy bought the estate in 1978 for just $255,000. When Brant and Seymour bought it 21 years later, the price was $4.1 million.

Pulitzer told me, “Anyone who bought in the ’70s has seen their property values skyrocket. It’s shocking. But those oppor tunities are long gone.”

Three years ago, Seymour and Brant, former owner of In terview magazine and a big art collector, paid $47 million for the Addison Mizner-designed mansion at 1820 South Ocean Boulevard.

The estate, built in 1926, is doubly waterfront, going from ocean to lake, and it’s bigger to fit more art, at 19,000 sq. ft.

The late Alfred Taubman, who owned Sotheby’s, purchased the mansion in 1989 for $5.5 million.

Seymour, one of the supermodels with Naomi Campbell and Claudia Schiffer, starred in two Guns N’ Roses music videos when she dated Axl Rose.

Brant, owner of White Birch Paper, has bred race horses and has a huge collection of art by Andy Warhol and Jean-Michel Basquiat. Now he’ll have more wall space to hang his art.

“There is still limited inventory,” Pulitzer said. “There will always be a market for good properties.” ◆

Clockwise from top left: 245 Dunbar Road in Palm Beach; Stephanie Seymour and Peter Brant; 1820 South Ocean Boulevard in Palm Beach; Liza Pulitzer (left) with Whitney McGurk, her partner at Brown Harris Stevens.

QUEST Fresh Finds

BY BROOKE KELLY MURRAY

APRIL SHOWERS bring May flowers, and in this case they come in a fashionable form, from Carolina Herrera’s Floral print dress to Paul Morelli’s Wild Child Stud Earrings. We’re also celebrating the Coronation with festive buys, from a diamond tiara to Elizabeth Gage’s special edition crown pin.

Perfect for Spring, Carolina Herrera’s Floral Print Strapless Gathered Mini Dress features a floor-sweeping train. $7,990 at neimanmarcus.com.

De Beers’ latest high jewelry piece, the Oneof-a-Kind Diamond Tiara, features more than 40 carats of natural diamonds, set in colored titanium and platinum. Price upon request at debeers.com.

Asprey’s Maxi Chaos Earrings with blue topaz and peridot mounted in 18ct white gold. $7,850 at asprey.com.

Aerin x Pamela Munson Waterlily Sun Embroidered Clutch in green. $345 at aerin.com.

Put the power in your drive with the 2023 BMW M2 Coupe. This two-door sports coupe is all-new and built to intensify every high-performance thrill. Order yours at BramanBMW.com.

Ahead of the Kentucky Derby, Woodford Reserve released its Derby Bottle for 2023. This year’s bottle celebrates the 50th anniversary of one of the most iconic moments in sports history – Secretariat winning the 1973 Derby. Artwork from Kentucky native Jaime Corum captures Secretariat in the Winner’s Circle at Churchill Downs. $55 at reservebar.com.

Ralph

Experience a new standard of luxury in La Romana, Dominican Republic with Casa de Campo’s Premier Club and Suites, highlighted with exclusivity, personalized service, and privacy from the moment you arrive. The Premier Club includes a dedicated reception with exclusive bar and lounge areas where you can enjoy premium beverages and a unique selection of complimentary canapés & appetizers prepared by the executive chef. Visit casadecampo.com.do.

The Colony Hotel x Vilebrequin Swim Trunks feature a custom de Gournay wallpaper pattern that is The Colony Hotel’s love note to Palm Beach. $310 at thecolonypalmbeach.com.

Zegna’s Off White Pure Linen Overshirt ($1,490) and Off White Cotton and Wool Double Pleat Pants ($990). Visit zegna.com.

Lauren Collection’s Small Stirrup with Leather Band. $2,600 at ralphlauren.com.

Fresh Finds

Paul Morelli’s Wild Child Stud Earrings. Prices range from $3,600 to $6,600. Visit paulmorelli.com.

Stop by Greenleaf & Crosby’s Worth Avenue boutique in Palm Beach for Fernando Jorge Disco Earrings ($55,000).

More information at greenleafcrosby.com.

Chopard’s Haute Joaillerie Coloured Dreams rings. Prices upon request at chopard.com.

Barton & Gray Mariners Club offers an assortment of membership options from “all-you-can-yacht” to “bite-sized-boating.” Members enjoy a lifetime of yachting with the ability to adjust their membership and take advantage of the ever expanding harbors and new yachts being added to the club. For more information, visit bartonandgray.com.

To mark the rare occasion of the crowning of a new monarch, Elizabeth has designed an equally special piece for His Majesty’s Coronation. Taking the form of an 18ct yellow gold crown pin, the diamond-set tips represent five symbols: royalty, power, immortality, glory & sovereignty. The deep red spinel was chosen for its symbolism of devotion and longevity –an auspicious jewel for a Coronation piece. This also references the ‘Ruby Spinel’ or ‘Black Prince’s Ruby’ in the Imperial State Crown. $11,200 at elizabeth-gage.com.

J.McLaughlin’s Audette Silk Wrap Dress in Peony Bloom ($248), Elliana Handbag ($268), and Krissa Heel ($268). Visit jmclaughlin.com.

St. John’s Bonded Sequin Knit Short Jacket ($1,695) and Bonded Sequin Knit Skirt ($995). Visit stjohnknits.com.

Tucked away on quiet South Summer Street in Edgartown village, The Charlotte Inn in Martha’s Vineyard is exquisitely appointed with fine art, English antiques, luxurious linens, and fresh flowers –a romantic reflection of a bygone era. Visit

A suitably celebratory loose leaf blend created to mark the Coronation of His Majesty King Charles III, Fortnum & Mason’s Coronation Organic Darjeeling Tea is a blend truly fit for a king. $28 at fortnumandmason.com.

Aloha Marina’s reversible Kapolei Bikini is floral print on one side and lavender on the other, and features an adjustable triangle top and bottom with self-tie fastenings. It is double lined for natural shape and light support. $110 at alohamarina.com.

Graff’s Pave Butterfly Diamond Petite Bracelet in white gold. $2,600 at graff.com.

thecharlotteinn.com.

Spotlight Earrings by Wempe Statements in 18k white gold. $64,675 at wempe.com.

A ROYAL COLLECTION

A CELEBRATED BRITISH jewelry designer, Elizabeth Gage has long been known for her unique and eclectic designs that incorporate various materials and gemstones. Her work is characterized by its boldness, creativity, and attention to detail, and has earned her a loyal following among collectors and admirers alike across the globe.

Elizabeth’s journey in the world of jewelry design began in 1963 when she enrolled at Sir John Cass College. “I was led to jewelry because a friend offered me a ring and although I knew what I wanted, I could not find it anywhere. Being a tenacious type of person, I thought if I cannot find it, I will make it,”

explained Elizabeth. “My time spent at the Sir John Cass College was fascinating. Frank Oliver was wonderful to me. I showed him what I had designed and he showed me how to make it. Gold was £35 per ounce in those days.

I made my first pin, sold it, bought some more gold and it went on from there,” she said.

In 1964, she established her special brand, Elizabeth Gage, which quickly became a hallmark of creativity and innovation in the world of fine jewelry. She went on to win many accolades, including the prestigious Queens Award for Export, British Jew elry Designer of the Year, and the coveted De Beers Diamond

Ring ($15,360); Tanzanite Charlemagne Ring ($38,400); Peridot Bracelet ($24,960). Opposite

Clockwise from above: A model dons various pieces from the latest collection; Green Enamel Earrings ($8,320); Sapphire and Ruby Agincourt Band Ring ($15,360); Queen Elizabeth II pin. Opposite page: A model dons various pieces from the latest collection.

Award for her Agincourt ring, described as an engineering masterpiece. She’s now recognized as one of the most influential and creative jewelry designers of the last four decades.

Elizabeth has long been known for choosing stones not for their value alone, but rather for their beauty, complementing these with objects that appeal because of their shape and color – from Baroque pearls to Sumerian amulets and 19th century intaglios. Elizabeth’s designs are inspired by a wide range of sources, including nature, art, history, and mythology, and are characterized by their bold use of color and unusual gemstone combinations.

One of the things that sets Elizabeth’s work apart is her attention to detail. She is known for her meticulous approach to design, which involves hand-drawing each piece and paying close attention to every detail, which is evident

in the intricate and delicate patterns that adorn many of her pieces. Elizabeth has always been conscious of the importance of combining comfort and practicality with imagination and creative design. A number of pieces can be altered for evening wear by the addition of detachable pearls, or adorned with diamonds. Necklaces can be made with interchangeable pendants. “I am very much aware that women today desire timeless jewelry that is suitable from both casual and more formal occasions,” explained Elizabeth. “I try to produce jewelry that people can treasure. To me, jewelry is to be worn and enjoyed morning, noon and night.”

Most recently, Elizabeth Gage debuted its Royal Collection, inviting all to celebrate the rare occasion of the crowning of a new monarch this month. Each of the extraordinary jewels is imbued with royal stories. u

On May 22nd,

2

COCKTAILS FOR CANINES

Rescue Dogs Rock NYC will host its Cocktails for Canines event at Versa at 218 West 35th Street at 6 p.m. Rescue Dogs Rock is a nonprofit animal rescue founded in 2015. It exists solely on donations and relies primarily on fundraising to help animals in need. The goal is to raise awareness for the ever growing plight of homeless animals in this country, both in shelters and those dumped on our streets. Way too many amazing animals are euthanized every single day simply because they are homeless. For more information, visit rescuedogsrocknyc.org.

3

HAT LUNCHEON

Central Park Conservancy will host its annual Frederick Law Olmsted Awards Luncheon, the signature event of the Women’s Committee. The event will take place at the Conservatory Garden at 11 a.m. The co-chairs are Kathryn Beal, Kristy Korngold, Melanie McLennan, and Suzy Welch. The Conservancy is committed to serving the public’s best interests and providing the

oversight and expertise necessary to ensure that the world-class greenspace is accessible to all. For more information, visit centralparknyc.org.

6

CORONATION WEEKEND

The Coronation of His Majesty

The King and Her Majesty The Queen Consort will take place at

Westminster Abbey on Saturday, May 6th in London. The service will be conducted by the Archbishop of Canterbury. Celebrations will be held through Monday, May 8th. For more information, visit royal.uk.

KENTUCKY DERBY

Held annually in Louisville, Kentucky, the Kentucky Derby horse race almost always takes place on the first Saturday in May, capping the two-week-long Kentucky Derby Festival. The competition is a Grade I stakes race for three-year-old Thoroughbreds at a distance of one and a quarter miles at Churchill Downs. For more information, visit kentuckyderby.com. 12

VIENNESE OPERA BALL

The 67th Viennese Opera Ball will take place at The Plaza at 8 p.m. The event is an annual white tie charity gala that celebrates the cultural and economic relationships between Austria and America. For more information, visit vienneseoperaball.com. 16

GOLF INVITATIONAL

Southampton Animal Shelter

the Royal Horticultural Society will host its annual Chelsea Flower Show through May 27th in London. For more information, visit rhs.org.uk.

On May 6th, the Coronation of His Majesty The King and Her Majesty The Queen Consort will take place at Westminster Abbey in London. For more information, visit royal.uk.

will hold its Golf Invitational at Sebonack Golf Club. The organization is one of the leading “No-Kill” animal shelters on Long Island. For more information, visit southamptonanimalshelter.com.

17

WAXMAN LUNCHEON

Samuel Waxman Research Foundation will host its Waxman Luncheon honoring Dr. Paul Jarrod Frank for his support of cuttingedge cancer research. MaxMara will present its Spring/Summer 2023 collection. For more information, visit waxmancaner.org.

18

MSK’S SPRING BALL

For over 75 years, The Society of Memorial Sloan Kettering (MSK) has raised funds essential to driving landmark innovations in cancer prevention, diagnosis, treatment, and patient care at MSK. In celebration of this cherished philanthropic tradition, the 16th Annual Spring Ball will take place on Thursday, May 18th at The Pierre. For more information, visit giving.mskcc.org.

22

CHELSEA FLOWER SHOW

The Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) will host its Chelsea Flower Show featuring amazing garden designs, gorgeous floral displays, and exclusive shopping through May

27th in London. The RHS is the UK’s leading gardening charity. It enriches lives through plants, and makes the UK a greener place. For more information, visit rhs.org.uk. 24

FAMILY PARTY

The Playground Partners of the Women’s Committee of the Central Park Conservancy (CPC) will hold its annual Family Party, its most

beloved annual event, at Heckscher Playground at 4 p.m. This familyfriendly fundraiser features activities geared toward children six months to 10 years of age, including sports, magic, music, arts and crafts, and more. For more information, visit centralparknyc.org.

26

SURF LODGE CONCERTS

The

will kick off its annual summer concert series, which will take place through Labor Day. For more information, table reservations, and the full music lineup, visit thesurflodge.com.

JUNE 1

LEGACY GALA

Ballet Hispánico announces The Legacy Gala, celebrating the life of its founder Tina Ramirez and her visionary leadership, passionate activism, and innovative artistry. For more information, visit ballethispanico.org.

THE BRUCE GALA

The Bruce Museum in Greenwich will host its annual gala at 6 p.m. The Bruce Museum is a community-based, world-class institution highlighting art, science, and natural history in more than a dozen changing exhibitions annually. The permanent galleries feature the natural sciences that encompass regional to global perspectives. The evening will support its mission of promoting the understanding of Art and Science. For more information, visit brucemuseum.org.

On May 6th, the Kentucky Derby horse race will take place in Louisville, Kentucky. For more information and to purchase tickets, visit kentuckyderby.com.

On May 18th, the Society of Memorial Sloan Kettering will host its Annual Spring Ball at The Pierre. For more information, visit giving.mskcc.org.

Surf Lodge in Montauk

HOW ABOUT BREAKFAST AT TIFFANY’S?

BY AUDAX

THE PEARLS, the oversized sunglasses, the perfect black dress. The sweet, doe-eyed girl with her dream and a cup of coffee peering at the sparkling gems before her neatly displayed in the window of the world’s most well-known jeweler. It’s a picture that Holly Golightly etched in time in 1961 and her image will live on forever. But while 60 years later the meaning of style remains unchanged (you either have it or you don’t and Audrey Hepburn did), the world has certainly evolved around Holly. The Tiffany brand today is disruptive and viral and just opened it doors from a four-year refresh.

By changing the historic location’s name from “flagship” to “The Landmark” Tiffany looks to create a distinction between this specific New York City location and a ros ter of important global stores in key cities like Tokyo and Los Angeles.

The New York City store at the corner of 57th Street and Fifth Avenue will, fittingly, be the only Tiffany store referred

The world of Tiffany & Co. awaits on the new Landmark’s main floor; Audrey Hepburn dressed in Givenchy and pearls in the opening scene of Breakfast at Tiffany’s, filmed in 1961. Opposite page, left to right: Alexandre Arnault, Tiffany’s Executive Vice President-Product & Communication (left), and Anthony Ledru, Tiffany’s President & CEO.

The staircase at Tiffany’s new Landmark store from the 7th floor looking down. Opposite page, from above: outside of 727 Fifth Avenue; Audrey Hepburn and George Peppard admiring jewelry in a scene from Breakfast at Tiffany’s ; a rendering of Tiffany’s Fifth Avenue flagship expansion depicting the upper portion of the building.

to as The Landmark, owing to the building’s rich history, while other stores will continue to be called “flagships.” (While the store’s facade is original, the building does not maintain landmark status with New York City’s Landmarks Preservation Commission).

Tiffany invited its best customers and most favored friends to a special opening event on the evening of April 27. The store then opened to the general public on April 28.

The renovation of one of New York’s most iconic stores — which served as the titular muse for Truman Capote’s “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” and whose windows once famously reflected Audrey Hepburn’s pining expressions in the book’s film adaptation — has been a long time in the making.

The job began in 2019 under Tiffany’s previous executive management team and came under the supervision of LVMH Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy upon the luxury group’s acquisition of Tiffany in 2021.

According to sources, it is understood that Tiffany’s Landmark renovation is the largest retail investment that LVMH has ever made in a single store. The overhaul includes an interior architecture design led by Peter Marino

The Masterpieces section for High Jewelry and Watches and the Patek Philippe salon on the new 7th floor. Opposite page, clockwise from top left: The top story of the addition on Tiffany’s flagship store, designed by OMA New York, has glass walls and will house private showrooms and other facilities; in 1980, Tiffany’s flagship received a rooftop addition of masonry and glass, which was used primarily for office space and storage; Audrey Hepburn outside of Tiffany’s while filming the opening scene of Breakfast at Tiffany’s.

and a three-story glass addition by OMA partner Shohei Shigematsu — both done in close collaboration with Tiffany.

The Landmark location has a unique 21st Century design to assure reestablishing the store as a global retail destination. Indeed, the 185-year franchise now sparkles as never before, and all its brightest stars-- Elsa Perretti, Paloma Picasso, and the ever elegant and imaginative Jean Schlumberger-- are swathed in a newly incandescent light.

In a documentary highlighting the reopening and celebrating the renewal of all 200-plus Tiffany stores globally, veteran executive Pierce MacGuire recounts how he started there in stationery and clocks in 1969 but eventually

progressed to preside over all three of those most prestigious brands. Today, long past the age when most people have gone to grass, this beloved and sage Tiffany’s presence continues to consult for the company, advising its longstanding and deepest pocketed clients how to enrich their jewelry collections with the utmost in discrimination and good taste.

“This is an exciting moment,” says Alexandre Arnault, the 30-year old scion overseeing Tiffany products and communications worldwide, “Because shepherding a classic brand like Tiffany successfully into a new age is the most rewarding challenge imaginable.” u

FACES BEHIND THE BAUBLES

PRODUCED BY BROOKE KELLY MURRAY & ELIZABETH MEIGHER

PHOTOGRAPHED BY JULIE SKARRATT

KOEPPER

Splitting her time between the islands of Bermuda, Palm Beach, and Manhattan, Sarah Bray-West, founder of sun hat brand Sarah Bray Bermuda, drops in a lustrous list of island jewelers in search of the season’s brightest gems, consulting with each of the driving forces behind the brands.

Sarah Bray-West stands before The Colony Hotel’s hand painted de Gournay wallpaper holding Asprey’s Pochette 1781 in Crocodile Parrot ($16,000). On her ears, she dons Maxi Chaos Earrings in prasiolite and pink tourmaline mounted in 18ct rose gold ($7,550). Around her neck, she wears the Emerald and Diamond Necklace set in platinum from Asprey Classics collection ($400,000). On her wrists, she wears the Emerald and Diamond Cuff set in 18ct white gold ($205,000); Emerald and Diamond Bracelet set in 18ct white gold ($135,000); Pave Diamond Bangle wide set in 18ct white gold wide ($48,000); Pave Diamond Bangle thin set in 18ct white gold ($30,000). On her fingers, she wears Asprey’s Diamond Deco collection Ring set in 18ct white gold ($39,000); Diamond Daisy Ring set in 18ct white gold ($16,400); Diamond Chaos Ring set in 18ct rose and white gold ($38,000); Eternity Bands in varying sizes, ranging from $15,000 to $50,000. Inset: Asprey products on display in the pop-up at The Colony.

BEAUTY BY DEBORAH

& VU HAIR SALON AT THE PENINSULA NEW YORK

“NOTHING PAIRS BETTER with a classic sun hat than timeless jewels,” says Sarah Bray-West. Since trading the media whirl of Manhattan for the remote seclusion of Bermuda, BrayWest has kept busy cleverly elevating sun hats with stylish new shapes designed for interchangeable antique ribbons. “Similarly to special stones, out-of-print vintage textiles and antique ribbons share a rarity that’s challenging to source.” When not eyeing estate sales in Palm Beach and Bermuda for vintage floral chintz fabrics to sew into ribbons or popping into her go-to antique ribbon dealer in the city, you just may find her visiting the temples of fellow accessory designers for inspiration. “Jewelers are always the most madly creative,” she says. “I find so much inspiration in the infinite history of jewelry making and humankind’s enduring fascination with adornments since our advent.”

On a sunny day in Palm Beach and a rainy day in New York, we went on a jewelry journey into the islands’ most illustrious shops and studios. After grabbing coffee at The Colony, we found ourselves mere steps away from the jewelbox that is Asprey. Right off the hotel’s iconic de Gournay-wrapped lobby, Asprey’s Palm Beach pop-up is helmed by the dapper Marco Chianese. After oogling over Asprey’s extensive emerald selection, we walked three minutes up the road to Graff on Worth to greet Store Director Carissa Robinson. Once inside the storied Worth Avenue boutique, we were treated to a variety of Graff’s breathtaking diamonds. Next, we stopped by Mish Fine Jewelry on South County Road, where we were greeted with the most colorful fine jewelry presented by the designer himself, Mish Tworkowski. We ultimately found ourselves back on Worth, ending our day at Greenleaf & Crosby, where Natalie Betteridge, who runs the storied boutique with her husband Win, walked us through the mix of estate jewelry alongside the contemporary pieces.

In the Big Apple, we met with Wempe’s President Ruediger ‘Rudy’ Albers at the company’s showroom on Fifth Avenue, surrounded by sophisticated watches and exquisite jewelry. Director of Jewelry Michaela Kesselman and Sales Director Melanie Epstein were on call to help us navigate through the selections. Our jewel-filled journey culminated with a meeting at The Peninsula New York with Vhernier’s Kasmira Della Schiava as the brand prepares for the opening of its new Madison Avenue space later this month. u

Marco Chianese, Asprey’s Palm Beach Boutique Manager, assists Bray-West in clasping the Emerald and Diamond necklace from Asprey Classics collection ($400,000). On her finger, she shows off Asprey’s Diamond Deco Collection Ring ($39,000). Inset: Bray-West decked in Asprey’s diamonds and emeralds while playing Backgammon in The Colony Hotel’s Living Room. She sports J.McLaughlin’s Chiara Polarized Sunglasses in Tortoise ($138) and beside her is Asprey’s Taylor Lizard & Bullskin Cabana Stripe Kingfisher with shoulder strap ($12,900).

Sarah Bray-West in Graff’s Diamond Abstract Necklace (69.65 carats) set in white gold. Store Director Carissa Robinson, who dons the Graff emerald-cut diamond Promise ring, places the Graff Round Diamond Ring with Heart Shape Diamond Surround (33.63 carats), set in platinum on Bray-West’s hand. Inset, above: Bray-West in Graff’s Round Diamond Ring with Heart Shape Diamond Surround (33.63 carats), set in platinum; Pear Shape Diamond Abstract Earrings (27.36 carats), set in platinum and white gold; Diamond Tribal Necklace (43.88 carats), set in white gold; and a selection of Graff Diamond Bracelets. Inset, below: Bray-West dons Graff’s Pear Shape Diamond Abstract Earrings (27.36 carats), set in platinum and white gold; Diamond Abstract Necklace (69.65 carats), set in white gold; Round Diamond Ring with Heart Shape Diamond Surround (33.63 carats), set in platinum. Robinson wears the Graff emerald-cut diamond Promise ring. Opposite page: Robinson who wears Graff’s Oval Diamond Hoop Earrings (20.08 carats), set in white gold, Round Diamond Three-Row Bangle (75.92 carats), set in white gold, and Emerald Cut Diamond Promise Ring with tapered baguette diamond shoulders (12.84 carats), set in platinum places the Graff Pear Shape, Round and Emerald Cut Diamond Necklace (64.18 carats), set in platinum and white gold around Bray-West’s neck. Inset: Robinson, who holds a loop to Graff’s Round Diamond Ring with Heart Shape Diamond Surround (33.63 carats), set in platinum, shows Bray-West a tray of jewelry. On the tray are the following necklaces, from left: Graff Diamond Abstract Necklace (69.65 carats), set in white gold; Graff Yellow Diamond (40.44) and White Diamond (49.55) Double Row Line Necklace, set in yellow and white gold; and Graff Pear Shape, Round and Emerald Cut Diamond Necklace (64.18 carats), set in platinum and white gold.

Mish Tworkowski and Sarah Bray-West stand outside Mish Fine Jewelry at 244 South County Road. Bray-West dons the Mish Waterfall Necklace featuring 70 strands of extremely fine and delicately faceted diopside beads with an 18k yellow gold knot and rope hook and ball closure ($52,500), and the Mish Demilune Earclips featuring Tahitian cultured pearls and chrysocolla set in 18k yellow gold ($8,600). She holds J.McLaughlin’s Royalton Wicker Handbag ($298). Inset: Tworkowski assists BrayWest with the Mish Makena Button Earclips in Tahitian cultured pearls, abalone and brown diamonds set in 18k rose gold (price upon request). She also wears her Sarah Bray Bermuda Clematis Bucket Hat with Tapestry Floral Ribbon ($150). Opposite page: Tworkowski helps Bray-West try on the Mish Honeywood Charm Bracelet featuring baroque South Sea cultured pearls mounted in 18k yellow gold with pavé diamonds (price upon request). Bray-West also wears the Mish Why Knot? Turquoise Collar in Sleeping Beauty turquoise and 18 yellow gold ($64,800) and the Mish Cabana Nautilus Tassel Earclips with turquoise, diamonds and keshi pearls set in 18k yellow gold (price upon request). Inset: Tworkowski behind his desk.

Diamond

Sarah Bray-West stands outside of Greenleaf & Crosby’s Worth Avenue boutique. She wears a Sarah Bray Bermuda sun hat, J.McLaughlin’s Chiara Polarized Sunglasses in Tortoise ($138), Verdura Double “X” Earrings, ($9,500), Verdura South Sea Pearl “Y” Necklace ($37,500), Verdura Diamond Double Crescent Bracelet ($72,500), Verdura Diamond Infinity Knot Bracelet ($83,500), Verdura Double Crescent Bracelet ($44,500), and Greenleaf & Crosby Aquamarine

Cocktail Ring ($24,000). Opposite page: Natalie Betteridge assists Bray-West with her jewelry selections.

Wempe’s Director of Jewelry Michaela Kesselman (left), President Ruediger ‘Rudy’ Albers (center), and Sales Director Melanie Epstein (right). Inset: A tray filled with Wempe jewelry, including the Uptown Necklace by Wempe Statements ($85,170), Uptown Hoops by Wempe Statements ($44,375), Uptown Ring by Wempe Statements ($13,145), Basics Ring by Wempe Classics ($6,225), and Uptown Bracelet by Wempe Statements ($20,175). Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Kesselman (right) with Bray-West wearing Wempe Sensual Seventies Necklace BY KIM ($33,975), Sensual Seventies Earrings BY KIM ($6,335), Sensual Seventies Bracelet BY KIM ($22,175), and Sensual Golden Bridge Ring BY KIM ($12,995); Bray-West strikes a pose outside of Wempe on Fifth Avenue wearing Shoshanna’s One-Shoulder Floral Lace Mesh Midi Dress ($815), Spotlight Necklace by Wempe Statements ($22,175), and shoes by Manolo Blahnik; Albers helps Bray-West try on Cartier’s Tank Francaise SM ($20,900), available at Wempe.

Vhernier’s Kasmira Della Schiava; Della Schiava walking Sarah Bray-West through a selection of Vhernier jewelry at The Peninsula New York (inset). Opposite page: Della Schiava (right) with BrayWest wearing Shoshanna’s Tiered Strapless Floral Organza Gown ($605). For jewelry, Bray-West wears Vhernier’s Calla Necklace in 18k pink gold ($22,550), Verso Earrings in 18k pink gold ($8,500), Calla Bracelet in 18k pink gold ($15,200), Abbraccio Ring in 18k pink gold ($6,700), and Plateau Ring in 18k pink gold ($6,100) on the roof of The Peninsula New York. Inset: Bray-West, who wears Shoshanna’s Tiered Strapless Floral Organza Gown ($605) and shoes by Manolo Blahnik, is greeted by Della Schiava.

THE BEST OF WATCHES & WONDERS

BY BROOKE KELLY MURRAY

Each year, Watches & Wonders brings together the main players in the watchmaking industry under one roof. The 2023 trade show in Geneva which featured 48 exhibiting brands and attracted nearly 43,000 unique visitors produced strong results and exceeded expectations. These are the timepieces that caught our eye. ◆

Rolex

Clockwise from top left: The three new versions of the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 shown here in 18 ct yellow gold with a dial cut from carnelian feature radiant dials in decorative stone studded with diamond-set hour markers and Roman VI and IX; the GMT-Master II is available this year in two new versions – yellow Rolesor and 18 ct yellow gold – with a Cerachrom bezel insert in grey and black ceramic, an entirely new color combination; to mark the 60th anniversary of the watch, Rolex has updated the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona across the range, including a dial with new graphic balance, harmonious color combinations, redesigned Oyster case, and more; with its two time zones and annual Saros calendar, the Sky-Dweller is an elegant and trusted companion for world travelers, and the range has been updated with numerous enhancements illustrating the role that excellence plays even in the tiniest details; by displaying a new emotion each day, this new version of the Day-Date 36 brings an element of spontaneity into the wearers’ daily life and allows them to invest the reading of time with their changing mood; Rolex inaugurates its Perpetual collection with the Perpetual 1908, a name given to the model in homage to the year Hans Wilsdorf devised the name ‘Rolex’ to sign his creations and registered the brand in Switzerland. More information and price upon request at rolex.com.

Charriol

Part of the Animals Forever collection, dedicated to helping protect endangered iconic species since 2017, the Turtle Forever Watch features stylized turtles that swim along a deep blue mother-of-pearl dial in a miniature navy-blue ocean awash with foam within a 32 mm case in rose-gold PVD steel ($1,114). Inset, from left: Slim Watch Aventurine ($1,451) features a yellow gold 2N plated steel case 34mm, black Aventurine dial, Swiss quartz movement, its signature steel cable bracelet, and shiny inclusions and glitter that glow like dazzling stars from a deep, dark sky; the Slim Watch 34mm ($1,339) features a blue dial, Swiss quartz movement, its signature steel cable bracelet, and a bezel finely engraved in Charriol letters that opens onto a deep blue mother-of-pearl dial with white and silver printed moon and stars. More information at charriol.com.

Arnold & Son

The Globetrotter Platinum features a central globe depicting the northern hemisphere, spanned by an immense bridge in 18-carat gold and for the first time ever, its 45 mm diameter case is made with the most prestigious 950 platinum. More information at arnoldandson.com.

IWC Schaffhausen

Clockwise from above: The Ingenieur Automatic 40 features a case, bezel, and integrated H-link bracelet with butterfly folding clasp made of stainless steel, all of which are elaborately finished with polished and satin-finished surfaces; the IWC booth; illustration of the Ingenieur Automatic 40; inside the IWC booth. More information at iwc.com.

TAG Heuer

A classic yet one-of-a-kind watch, the TAG Heuer Carrera Tourbillon features an intense blue dial with orange highlights, and an aperture at 6 o’clock reveals a tourbillon cage. This complex technical gem brings high accuracy to the chronometer-certified automatic TH20-09 movement, backed by 65 hours of power reserve. Ideal on the track. More information at tagheuer.com.

Van Cleef & Arpels

From left: Inside the Van Cleef & Arpels booth; reinterpreting the aesthetics of the collection, the Perlée secret pendant watch takes the form of a long necklace with a rotating motif set wih rubies that reveals the hidden dial. More information at vancleefarpels.com.

Jaeger-LeCoultre

From left: With the front dial facing outwards, the Reverso One Precious Colours Mother-of-Pearl Dial watch has a rich and elegant presence, featuring vivid colors on its enamelled frame with diamond-set gadroons and lugs; a burgundy lacquer dial complements the glowing richness of pink gold in the new Reverso Tribute Small Seconds watch; the Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179. More information at jaeger-lecoultre.com.

Piaget

Clockwise from left: Inside the Piaget booth; the Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-thin features a dark emerald-green dial with a gadroon pattern but shines a new light in this pink gold case; the Piaget Swinging Sautoir in gold features a horizontal oval case rimmed in diamonds within a gold ropework surround, a dial decorated with Palace Decor suspended on an intricate, handmade chain draped through diamond circular links with tassels of unequal lengths, a Piaget signature from the 1960s and 1970s. More information at piaget.com.

Chanel

Clockwise from left: The Lion Astroclock is an exceptional new Haute Horlogerie piece, a remarkable clock featuring a faceted black lion, a constellation hand, and a comet in white gold set with diamonds; J12 Watch Calibre 12.2, 33 mm in white highly resistant ceramic and steel. More information at chanel.com.

Montblanc

Montblanc’s booth; Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea Limited Edition Coffret (inset). More information at montblanc.com.

Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe is enriching its range of elegant watches for ladies with a new rose gold version decked out in purple – an original and refined color perfectly matching the warm nuances of the precious metal. The bezel set with 76 round internally flawless Top Wesselton diamonds (0.55 ct) highlights the dial with its embossed radiating pattern and the entirely polished case. Ladies’ Calatrava - Ref. 4997/200R-001. More information at patek.com.

A TIME FOR POWER

BY ELIZABETH QUINN BROWN

This page: A young John F. Kennedy wearing his first watch as a student at Harvard University.

United States —from George Washington to Barack Obama—are known for their character, their intelligence, their power, their tenacity. These qualities are emphasized through the ways they choose to present themselves. For men, watches are used to express something about themselves. For presidents, this is truer—because it’s more calculated. (Think Bill Clinton and his Timex.) Here, a selection of watches that do, indeed, serve to represent the representatives who sported them. These are the time-pieces that have defined the times since 1776—in one- or two-term increments, of course.

This page, clockwise from above: A Bulova watch with a pink face and gold numerals was given to Kennedy by an admirer at a dinner hosted by Cissy Patterson at 15 DuPont Circle on November 10, 1941; Kennedy received an Omega watch engraved with “President of the United States John F. Kennedy” from friend Grant Stockdale in 1960, before he was elected; President George Washington’s “quarter repeater” is engraved, “1775/G. Washington” (he was elected in 1789); President Dwight D. Eisenhower was the first president to own a Rolex and, here, his Rolex Datejust, personalized by the company with five stars symbolizing his military rank as a five-star general; Eisenhower and his Rolex.

This

Officer

2014 as the Truman Edition Flight Officer; President James Monroe’s pocketwach from Gabriel was a gift from President Thomas Jefferson; in 2009, a pocketwatch belonging to President Abraham Lincoln was discovered to be hiding a message under the dial: “Thank God we have a government —Jonth Dillon”; President Lyndon B. Johnson’s Patek Philippe reads, “Do Unto Others As You Would Have Them Do Unto You”; President Rutherford B. Hayes’s E. Howard & Co. pocketwatch was a gift from his mother-in-law; and its etching includes a picture of his wife (and her daughter); President Franklin D. Roosevelt’s Tiffany & Co. watch was a gift from his son-in-law and is engraved, “With loyalty, respect, and affection / January 30, 1945”; President Warren G. Harding’s pocketwatch from Hiram is decorated with Masonic symbols; another view of Truman’s Flight Officer from

page, clockwise from top left: President Harry S. Truman’s Flight

from Gallet—a watch that is being rereleased by Gallet in

Truman outfitted the pilots of World War II with the timepiece he sported, the Flight Officer from Gallet, because he believed it to be unmatched in terms of navigation and precision.

A BRILLIANT GUIDE TO JEWELRY

Gabrielle Chanel commissioned Verdura to make her first jewels, the famous cuff bracelets with multicolored stones in the shape of a Maltese cross. Opposite page, from above: Chanel’s Fête des Moissons necklace set with white and yellow diamonds; J ewelry Guide: The Ultimate Compendium (Assouline).

special sense of meaning for those who wear it. Its value is multifaceted: intrinsic, sentimental, magical, human. Since the dawn of time, just a few grams of precious metals and gems have acted as distillations of the highest sentiments and catalysts of the lowest passions.

Written by veteran French editor Fabienne Reybaud, formerly head of the jewelry and watches department of French newspaper Le Figaro for a quarter of a century, Assouline’s Jewelry Guide: The Ultimate Compendium is dedicated to her father, “Jean, who taught [her] what makes the outward form and the inner essence of a jewel.” The 324-page tome walks readers through a history of jewelry through the ages, explaining that jewelry in some form has always been a part of our lives dating back as far as we can remember. The book highlights the world’s most mythical stones and magnificent pieces, from the Hope Diamond to Elizabeth Taylor’s La Peregrina pearl. Extensively illustrated

A model’s hand wearing a Piaget diamond ring and bracelet featured in Vogue Japan, 2003; the Lesedi La Rona diamond was mined in 2015 and is the fourth largest ever found (inset). Opposite page, from above: An auctioneer in action at Christie’s Maharajas & Mughal Magnificence sale in June 2019; Codognato’s signature e memento mori theme is featured in a ring.

with atelier images, original sketches, and colorful photography, the book covers everything jewelry enthusiasts need to know. For example, The Club of Five is diamonds, sapphires, rubies, emeralds, and pearls—the most iconic gemstones used in jewelry. The Four Cs was established by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) in the 1950s and is the international standard for appraising the quality of diamonds based on color, clarity, cut, and carat weight. Together, the Four Cs determine a diamond’s value. Jewelry Guide: The Ultimate Compendium i s accompanied by an essential glossary, the best museum collections to visit around the world, as well as the budding designers to follow and a buyer’s guide to investing in antique and vintage pieces. u

From above: A Fred Force 10 cuff set in yellow gold with diamonds; a rough diamond bought by Graff in 2017. Opposite page: A specialty of Mikimoto, white Akoya pearls are used for an XXL necklace.

GREEN GLOW

BY DAVID PATRICK COLUMBIA

This page: Sorting emeralds in Zambia at the largest emerald mine in the world. Opposite page: Watch, circa 1600, from the Cheapside Hoard, set in a single large hexagonal Colombian emerald crystal with a hinged lid. The dial plate is enamelled in translucent green and the circular gold suspension loop and button securing the movement at the base are set with small emeralds. The watch has a gold dial overlaid with dark green enamel, through which can be seen an engraved design of radiating lines. The lid is slightly lighter in colour than the body crystal, allowing the watch dial to be seen with the lid closed.

THE FIRST TIME I ever saw real emeralds was when I was a very young man living in New York, just out of college. I had a girlfriend who lived with her parents in a very grand Park Avenue apartment. I’d only known the girl for a short while and, when I’d go to pick her up, I’d sometimes see her father, but never the mother—whom, I was told, wasn’t feeling well. Then one night, my friend invited me over for dinner. When the maid came to tell her dinner was being served, she told me we’d be dining in “Mummy’s bedroom” on trays. Mummy’s bedroom was at the end of a long corridor lit by small chandeliers.

Her mother was in bed. A beautiful woman, sitting upright in what looked like satin sheets. Her makeup as if she were ready to go out for the evening, although the long brown roots of her

blonde hair had gone unattended. Nevertheless, roots and all, she looked like a movie star set up for a scene in a luxurious bedroom.

I was fascinated by her commanding yet vulnerable presence. She was wearing an emerald green silk blouse. I remember the color especially because dangling from her ear lobes were large emerald drop earrings. I much later learned that the emeralds had belonged to her late mother who was reputed to have a collection of jewels to rival the Duchess of Windsor.

She wore them as if they were everyday wear for her. Even in bed. The scene was unusually cinematic. She was maybe the most glamorous real person I’d ever seen. She was a beauty and made up to look her best (I later learned she had been very ill),

This page: Sita Devi, Maharani of Baroda, commissioned Van Cleef & Arpels to make this, the Baroda Necklace, set with 13 luscious cabochon-emerald drops (above); a Seaman Schepps bracelet found in the collection of Andy Warhol, circa 1940, made of emerald, rock crystal, moonstone, and diamond (below). Opposite page: Raw emeralds in the hands of market traders in Colombia.

and her emeralds were astounding—as beautiful as the woman who was wearing that deep, bright green.

If someone were to ask me if I had a favorite stone—not something I think much about—I guess it would be the emerald. After reading this massive (and beautiful) tome Emerald, I can see that I am not the only one who responds this way. In many ways, the emerald is more mesmerizing than the diamond. It definitely adds a kind of substantive aura to the image of the woman or king or maharaja wearing them. Power refined.

Thames & Hudson assembled this fabulous book for anyone

hoping to partake of the magic and mystery of the emerald. Not to mention learn of the dramas that have surrounded many a stone. Montezuma had emeralds, and so did Queen Elizabeth II, and so, of course, did Barbara Hutton. Such diverse characters nevertheless shared in the awe it inspires.

Connoisseurs, experts, princes, and movie stars reveal their experience of possessing emeralds in these pages. Its history, its possessors, its legends, and its relationship to civilization is all gathered within for one’s reading and looking pleasure. Reading Emeralds, I was sharing in that awe also. So will you. u

This page: Lamp clip, 1929 by Van Cleef & Arpels. Platinum, ruby, emeralds, moonstone, diamonds, and carved emeralds (left); snake necklace named “Eternity” in diamond and emerald set with two emeralds weighing more than 200 carats each, Cartier 1997 (right). Opposite page: “Tutti fruitti” bracelet designed as a foliate open-work strap set with carved rubies, sapphires, and emeralds with diamond accents, with a diamond and black enamel clasp, by Cartier New York, circa 1928; Emerald (Thames & Hudson) available in bookstrores.

THE YOUNG & THE GUEST LIST YGL

BY BROOKE KELLY MURRAY

Savannah Engel, Wes Gordon, Ivy Getty, Charlotte Groeneveld, Paul Arnhold, Indré Rockefeller, Elise Taylor, Lilah Ramzi, and Elizabeth Kurpis.

ON MARCH 30TH, the Frick Collection hosted its annual Young Fellows Ball at its temporary location at the former site of the Met Breuer. The event’s theme, “Bejeweled,” was inspired by the current special exhibition, The Gregory Gift , featuring 28 remarkable works of fine and decorative art recently bequeathed to the museum by collector and publisher Alexis Gregory. Held in partnership with Irene Neuwirth , the evening featured cocktails, hors d’oeuvres, a unique “Step into a Fragonard” photo experience, music by Angel + Dren , and gallery tours.

FRICK COLLECTION’S YOUNG FELLOWS BALL

Clockwise from top left: Lathan Hall and Alexander Hankin; Alexis Light; Mercedes de Guardiola and Kevin Brotman; music by Angel + Dren; Ian Wardropper, Irene Neuwirth, and John Grisham.

YGL

TO CELEBRATE its Spring/Summer 2023 collection and 15 years of the iconic Gigi sandal, Sam Edelman introduced L’Hotel Gigi, a concept shop at The Colony Hotel that included three days of curated, immersive branded experiences designed to generate sales and maximize exposure in Palm Beach. The launch event featured a pink Sam Edelman branded Fiat Jolly, cocktails, and live music during sunet.

SAM EDELMAN CELEBRATES PALM BEACH POP-UP

Sam Edelman and Bettina Anderson

Katy Ferrarone and Jayne Chase

Guest posing with Sam Edelman’s pink Fiat Jolly

Callie Baker Holt, Elizabeth Meigher, and Lizzi Bickford Meadow

Stephanie Hill

LAST MONTH, YoungArts welcomed nearly 300 of New York’s community leaders, philanthropists, and art aficionados to its annual gala at The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Temple of Dendur. Presented by UBS, the event was hosted by honorary chair Agnes Gund , and co-chairs Sarah Arison , Gillian Hearst , and Sandra Tamer . The evening raised nearly $1 million to support artists nationwide. u

YOUNGARTS HOSTS ANNUAL NEW YORK GALA

Rebecca Hargrove and Nyah Hardmon

Agnes Gund and Sarah Arison

Daniel J. Watts

Sarah Hoover, Mickalene Thomas and Casey Fremont

Gillian Hearst

CHRISTOPHER DUGGAN; BFA

THE CARTIER TANK

BY BROOKE KELLY MURRAY

THE CARTIER TANK watch is a true masterpiece, an icon of style and elegance that has stood the test of time for over a century. In a new book published by Flammarion, Franco Cologni—who boasts over 50 years in the luxury industry—tells the fascinating story of how this classic timepiece came to be.

The origins of the Cartier Tank can be traced back to 1917 during the height of World War I. Louis Cartier, the founder of the prestigious jewelry and watchmaking company, was inspired by the new military technology he saw on the battlefield, particularly the tanks that were changing the face of modern warfare. From this inspiration came the design of the Tank, a watch that would be both sturdy and fashionable, a perfect representation of the modern era.

Since its founding, the watch has been reinterpreted through multiple variations that are forever faithful to the spirit of the original design, from the Tank Cintrée to the Tank Chinoise, and the Tank Américaine to the Tank Française. The Cartier Tank Watch delves deep into the history of the accessory, exploring the many models that have been produced over the years. The book also features extensive archival documents along with photographs of some of the most stylish people of our time who have donned the timepiece on their wrists, from Jackie Kennedy Onassis and Princess Diana to Andy Warhol and Yves Saint Laurent.

With its stunning photography and insightful commentary, this book is a true celebration of one of the most enduring symbols of luxury and fashion. “Given its exceptional longevity, this watch has developed along with the times, and is indeed a living reflection of the successive eras that it has witnessed. That means that the Tank has a story to tell. We are particularly delighted to share that story with you,” says Cologni. ◆

Clockwise from above:

Elongated JJC Tank wristwatch, Cartier London, 1974; study for the positioning of a“railtrack” on a Tank watch; cover of Flammarion’s The Cartier Tank Watch ; a page from the scrapbooks of Cartier’s designers, circa 1930.