QUEST May 2011 by QUEST Magazine

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The JEWELRY Issue

kelly rutherford and coralie charriol paul In the royal plaza suite at the plaza hotel

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CONTENTS The Jewelry Issue 98 Dressing up with jewelry and fashion at The Plaza Hotel. living the suite life

by D aniel Cappello

and

Elizabeth M eigher,

photographed by

J ulie S karratt

108 MARVELS AND MYSTERY A new exhibit at the Cooper-Hewitt Design Museum showcases the extraordinary innovation by jeweler Van Cleef & Arpels. by Georgina Schaeffer

114 golden child Blair Husain, one of Manhattan society’s favorite leading ladies, breaks out

with a solid-gold jewelry line that’s proving her power as a designer.

Daniel Cappello

120 keeping up with the times Our selection of the best new watches, plus a

special report from BaselWorld with Coralie Charriol Paul.

D aniel Cappello

126 NEAR THE HEART The little locket is making a big comeback. by Georgina Schaeffer 130 a bright future The multi-billion-dollar sale of Bulgari. by Georgina Schaeffer 134

BIGGER & BETTER

De Grisogono celebrates fifteen years of big jewels and

black diamonds—plus the reopening of a local store. by Daniel Cappello

120

CONTENTS C olumns 20

Social Diary

60 64

66 68 72

Social Calendar

D avid P atrick C olumbia

Our guide to the monthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best benefits, balls, and more.

Queen Elizabeth, then and now, but always dazzling in her jewels.

observations

Love hurtsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;especially when unrequited.

fresh finds

canteens

fashion

weddings

HARRY BENSON

Chronicles of the social scene.

Some great shopping picks.

Daniel Cappello

and

Culinary fare takes center stage at Lincoln Center.

A peek inside the new Paola Quadretti boutique. The latest marriages and engagements.

T aki T heodoracopulos Elizabeth Meigher

Daniel Cappello

D aisy P rince

Georgina Schaeffer

138 Appearances From book parties to Beijing, our society editor reports. by Hilary Geary 140

young & the guest list

Partying with the junior set.

E lizabeth B rown

144 snapshot Memories of going to bed with Elizabeth Taylor. by M ichael V ollbracht

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georgina schaeffer senior editor

rachel corbett FASHION e d i t o r

daniel cappello a s s o c i a t e a r t d i r ec t o r

valeria fox A s s o c i at e e d i to r

Elizabeth Brown Societ y editor

Hilary Geary interns

grace whitney Contributing writers

HARRY BENSON elizabeth meigher Coralie charriol paul daisy prince

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O N

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editor’s letter

From left: An outtake from our cover shoot with a Tiffany & Co. tourmaline ring; the Cooper-Hewitt museum, where an exhibit of Van Cleef & Arpels is on view now; a sweet locket.

in this month's back-page “Snapshot” column, designer Michael Vollbracht writes about a visit he had with the late Elizabeth Taylor. Without giving too much away, the story proves once again that it doesn’t matter if a ring comes from inside a box from Tiffany’s or the inside of a Cracker Jack box, it’s the thought that counts. This issue, we visit with two women currently working in the jewelry industry who would agree. First, Daniel Cappello profiles Blair Husain, an Upper East Side mother and wife who recently started up her own jewelry company. Fascinated by the numbers we use in life to signify our fondest memories, she uses roman numerals in her designs to memorialize dates such as wedding anniversaries and birthdays. What sets Blair’s work apart is that, while the meaning behind the jewelry is sentimental, the design itself is formed by bold lines and strong shapes. Meanwhile, in an interview with Tracy Smith from House of Lavande, we examine the resurgance of lockets. Favored by Victorians, the locket is one of the most romantic pieces of jewelry ever made. In our current technologically driven world, I can’t help but think that we react to the hustle and bustle by yearning for nostalgic mementos such as these. This is not to say that big gems don’t have their rightful place in our jewelry boxes—and that doesn’t seem to be a trend that’s fading anytime soon. In March, the LVMH Group bought Bulgari for a record $6 billion, the largest sum of money the group has ever spent on a single brand. In this issue, we write a short history of the the three-generation, family-held company. We also visit with Fawaz Gruosi of de Grisogono. His company saw its share of heartache when its Madison Avenue store suffered a debilitating fire, but, as we report, Gruosi and de Grisogono are back in a big way. And then there’s our cover shoot, produced by Daniel Cappello and Elizabeth Meigher, “Living the Suite Life.” In this photo portfolio, Kelly Rutherford, Coralie Charriol Paul,

and Melanie Fascitelli model fine jewelry from Tiffany & Co., Asprey, Harry Winston, and Charriol at The Plaza Hotel. Looking through the outakes, my favorite shots are of Kelly and Coralie with their daughters, especially this photo of Helena Rutherford putting a giant Tiffany cocktail ring on her toe. The jewelry is beautiful, but it’s a child’s smile that truly dazzles. Finally, I took a tour with curator Sarah Coffin to see her show “Set in Style: The Jewelry of Van Cleef & Arpels” at the CooperHewitt. I always forget just how amazing our national design museum is, and this dynamite exhibition does not disappoint. Later this month, I will be sitting in the garden of the museum for my mother’s graduation, having earned her Master’s degree in Decorative Arts. I’m trying to think of something special to get for her to commemorate the occasion—but might just buy some Cracker Jacks and give her the prize inside. u

Georgina Schaeffer

on the cover: Kelly Rutherford and Coralie Charriol Paul, in dresses by J. Mendel, are two subjects in our cover jewelry shoot, "Living the Suite Life," by Daniel Cappello and Elizabeth Meigher, and photographed by Julie Skarratt. Kelly is wearing Asprey jewelry, while Coralie is wearing Charriol.

CORRECTION: In “The Art of the Engraved,” in the April issue, the stationery brand Mrs. John L. Strong was erroneously referred to as defunct. In fact, the company was rescued and returned to its longstanding status as “society’s stationer” by social paper enthusiast Jacqueline Kotts.

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A

David Patrick Columbia

NEW YORK SO C IAL DIARY “April is the cruelest month,”

wrote T.S. Eliot in one of his most memorable lines from The Wasteland, which I read in college, to no effect, and recently re-read for first-time pleasure. Poets aside, April had some shocking surprises for us all. New Yorkers

complained about the weather, of course. Cold. Coldish. Not quite warm. Many Americans complained about the weather with good reason: it was catastrophic in some parts— tornados, driving rains. And then along comes pretty little May with the flowers.

New York has been ablaze with spring colors, from the pear trees lining many of our neighborhood streets, to the magnolias and Japanese cherries in the parks, to the tulips, daffodils, and pansies. Despite the bad, or at least not so good, news from many

corners, the benefit galas, luncheons, and fund-raisers were blazing with record numbers, in terms of both attendance and dollars raised. And then everyone got a major pick-me-up with the wedding across the pond. I didn’t “watch” the

T h e H o r t i c u lt u r a l S o c i e t y o f N e w Yo r k ’ s a nn u a l D i nn e r D a n c e

CeCe Black 20 QUEST

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A marriage of Will and Kate, now the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, since viewing began so early in the morning (or way past my bedtime) here in New York. Although I did see quite a few videos from the British papers online—the Daily Mail, the Telegraph, the Guardian—and I found they all left me with a smile on my face, as well as in my heart. It was, as you know if you saw any of it, a pleasure to see these two young people—a really beautiful bride and a handsome, proud young groom—emerge from Westminster Abbey. The operative word is “hope.” I did watch the wedding of Charles and Diana thirty years

ago. I was living in Los Angeles at the time and the eight-hour time difference made it a lot easier. I don’t recall much of it except the crowds and her splendid entrance to St. Paul’s Cathedral with all that white silk taffeta trailing behind as she, just turned twenty, made her way up the red-carpeted steps. Looking at photographs of those moments today, I’m struck at how “young” both bride and groom, especially groom, looked then, compared to the sagging, jowly Prince Charles today. I was also struck by the far from tender irony that followed in their years ahead. I thought of Diana throughout those videos, as did

many others, I’m sure. After all, we grew up with Diana and her boys, and there was a sense of closeness between children and parent that we did not see when it came to Charles and his parents. The two young princes (William and Harry) are definitely her boys—outgoing, open-faced and bright-eyed—unlike their apparently stuffy, beleaguered, and uptight father. All of this is my imagination, mind you, since I know none of them. It should be noted that Diana’s successor (and nemesis), the Duchess of Cornwall, is said to be close to her stepsons and enjoys. This is not surprising considering the Duchess, too, is a mother, and

one who appears to relate with affection to younger people. In the new duchess, the former Miss Middleton, you can see a natural aptitude for ambition, which some pundits trace to her mother’s side of the family. Mother married up, and so, it followed, did daughter. Ambition is always found in the definition of a strong (and wealthy or powerful) family. It is a trait found in both men and women, although in couples it is more often found in one than the other. Basing my assumption on photos (which can be highly inaccurate), it would seem that the new duchess, with her dazzling smile, has the ambition in the new family. However, the

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heir apparent is obviously a thoughtful man, sensitive to his surroundings and anxious to do what he believes is the right thing in the name of his mother and his father. That said, this bride and groom come from two distinctly different ways of life. She was brought up in a conventional household where there was a mother, a father, and siblings, all in a house where everyone was in close proximity to each other. He was brought up in a royal household, which is by definition bifurcated between private and public, where parents are often distant, both physically and mentally, with governesses, nurses, and tutors serving substitute roles. William has grown up in a 24 QUEST

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world where family members are addressed as “ma’am” and “sir” by everyone who is not intimately related. Those two salutations are barriers that serve several purposes, but mainly to separate the royal from his or her subjects. However, the loss of their mother in childhood is a deep wound. In one way or another this will remain an influence on William as he travels through life. On the first Saturday of the month, Elena Ford hosted a surprise birthday party for her mother, Charlotte Ford, in the private dining room at La Grenouille. The invitation went out more than a month ago, and blared the “surprise” on it. I found it hard to believe

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someone wouldn’t accidentally give it away since there are four grandchildren, her brother and sister-in-law from Detroit, and several close friends who easily could have accidentally let the cat out of the bag. Elena, however, covered all the bases. She and her mother and Charlotte’s sister, Anne Ford, plus the grandchildren, just had just returned from a week’s stay in Costa Rica, flying directly to New York (Elena lives in Detroit), which gave them the excuse to stay over a night. That Saturday at noontime, Charlotte’s lifelong friend, Diana Feldman, gave a “luncheon” for her at Serafina, which was the “cover” for a party with friends. Dinner was called for 7 p.m.

The birthday girl arrived at 7:15, promptly, thinking she was having a birthday dinner with her family. When she walked into the dining room, the four tables, each set for ten, were hidden behind a screen, so that when she turned around to walk up the stairs to the mezzanine, she faced the “SURPRISE!” Among the guests were Charlotte’s doctor, who delivered Elena more than four decades ago, as well as her brother Edsel, and his wife, Cynthia, who flew in from Grosse Pointe, and her niece Allegra Ford who came down from Boston with her fiancé. Plus lots of old friends. Gemutlich would be the word to describe the feeling in

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the room. Although only nine of the guests were immediate family, there were many longstanding friends, and it felt like a family affair—casual, relaxed, and full of sentiment. As has become the fashion, there were book signings galore last month. On a Wednesday night over on Beekman Place, Eric Ruttenberg and Perri Peltz hosted a party for Jennet Conant and her new non-fiction book, A Covert Affair: Julia Child and Paul Child in the O.S.S. (Simon & Schuster). Additional hosts were: Sara Ayres, Tory Burch, Ariadne Calvo-Platero, Cristina Cuomo, Jill Fairchild, Jeanne Greenberg, Gigi 26 QUEST

George Stephanopoulos, Alexandra Wentworth and Elliott Stephanopolous

Kalli Siegel and Jerry Lauren

Tracy Pollan and Barbara Walters

Mortimer, Perri Pletz, Renee Rockefeller, Peggy Siegal, and Kitty Sherrill. In the crowd: John Alexander, Annette Tapert, Ken Auletta and Binky Urban, Clara Bingham, Toni and Jamie Goodale, Janie Buffet, Andrew and Leslie Cockburn, James and Lucy Danziger, Steve Kroft (Mr. Jenny Conant), Jeff Sager, Jeffrey Leeds, Amanda Foreman, Peter and Maily Smith, Mary and Ian Snow, Richard David Storey, Alexandra Styron, Jamie Tisch, Sasha Clifton, Vicky Ward, Charlie Thompson, Louise Grunwald, John Huey, Jonathan Karp, Debbie and John Loeffler

(owner of the new restaurant Desmond), Terry McDonell, Karen Zucker, Christy Ferer, Vicky Gordon, Brooke Neidich, Nancy Novogrod, Liz Smith, Iris Love, Rosanna Scotto, Robert Silvers, Calvin Trillin, Jay McInerney, and Ann Hearst. This is Jenny’s fourth book. The first three—all bestsellers—were Tuxedo Park, The Irregulars, and 109 East Palace, and they all center around or arise out of World War II. Jenny’s paternal grandfather James B. Conant was the distinguished president of Harvard in the 1940s and ’50s, but was also in on the inception and

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planning stages of the Atom Bomb, which is what led to Tuxedo Park, where the initial meetings were held. The success of that book led to what is now a quartet about that time, that war, and the personalities engaged in its activities—and the political repercussions thereafter. At the time, Julia was single and thirty, a six-foot-two-inch golf-playing California girl, who joined the staff of “Wild Bill” Donovan, head of the O.S.S. (which later became the C.I.A.). On her first posting, which was at the headquarters of Lord Mountbatten, she met the much older and more sophisticated Paul Child who

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A charmed her and educated both her mind and palate, all while sharing the experience of the chaotic end of the war in China and the beginnings of the Communist revolution. Moving on to the parties and all that jazz. My friend Ashley Schiff-Ramos has been a big supporter of Jazz at Lincoln Center for years now. She married Mike Ramos a few years ago, however, and moved to Palm Beach and started a family. I thought that was it for Ashley and Lincoln Center. However, a couple of months ago, she was back on the scene (briefly) organizing the annual gala benefit that took place on a recent Thursday night at Jazz at Lincoln Center. “Marsalis and Clapton Play the Blues: Rose Theater” read the 7 p.m. ticket. The program said specifically there would be no playing of “Layla.” I

believed, nonetheless. In his opening remarks, Clapton looked kind of distinguished, like a maestro, in his gray suit and tie, and his full head of (long) grayish hair. He just celebrated his sixty-sixth. He told us how, although he’d played with a few jazz musicians before, he’d never really done what he’d always dreamed of as a kid. Well, all I can say is that we were lucky to be there. Each song, from “Taj Mahal” to “Layla” to “Corrina Corrina,” came via New Orleans and the great American musical heritage that belongs to all of us. Some of us were almost ready to jump up out of our seats and dance. The evening, it turned out, was the result of six years of Ashley getting everyone together and agreeing. She saw Marsalis and Clapton play together at a benefit many

years ago and all she could think from that moment on was, this would be a dynamite benefit. As indeed it was. More than eight hundred guests attended, and they raised more then $3.6 million. Thank you, Ashley, mother of us all now. Among the guests: Jazz at Lincoln Center Leadership board chairman  Lisa Schiff with David Schiff, executive director Adrian Ellis, and artistic director Wynton Marsalis. The underwriters for the gala evening were Jody and John Arnhold, Lisa and Dick Cashin, Diana and Joe DiMenna, and Dr. Agnes Varis. Also in attendance: John Legend, Gayle King, Newark Mayor Cory Booker, Shahara Ahmad-Llewellyn, Gail and Al Engelberg, Mica Ertegun, Mercedes and Sid Bass, Linda Wachner, George Wein, Fiona and

Stan Druckenmiller, Eliza and Alex Bolen, Lloyd and Laura Blankfein, Katherine Farley and Jerry Speyer, Faye Wattleton, Gail and Al Engelberg, Marlene Hess and Jim Zirin, Ed and Carolyn Lewis, Wendy and Steve Madden, Michael Vlock and Karen Pritzker, Mike Ramos, Louise and Leonard Riggio, Diana and Jonathan F.P. Rose, Jack and Susan Rudin, Roy J. Zuckerberg, and many more just like ‘em. On another busy night in New York: Over at Carnegie Hall they celebrated its 120th anniversary with a gala concert led by James Taylor, with Barbara Cook, Bette Midler, Steve Martin, Sting, Dianne Reeves, Kevin Pollak, and an all-star audience. The same night, over at 583 Park, the Horticultural Society of New York held its New York Flower Show Dinner Dance

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honoring David Easton and chaired by CeCe Black, Elizabeth Scholtz, Sheila Stephenson, and Elizabeth Stribling. Meanwhile, over at the Mandarin Oriental, New Yorkers for Children held its eighth annual Spring Dinner Dance, “A Fool’s Fête,” to benefit youth in foster care. Chairs: Allison Aston, Marisa Brown, Alina Cho, Lydia Fenet, Rory Hermelee, Nicole Esposito, and Susan Shin. Honorary chair Dayssi Olarte de Kanavos is largely credited with putting this gala on the social map. On that same day, the American Museum of Natural History held its twenty-first 30 QUEST

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annual Spring Environmental Lecture and Luncheon. The subject this year was food, “A new Food culture for a sustainable future,” focusing on environmentally sound nutrition choices. This is an excellent event, and a fund-raiser for the museum. Its subjects draw on a wide array of very smart, sensible people. No easy task. The panelists are always articulate, like good teachers (which many of them are or have been). There are a lot of people who don’t want to hear these things, preferring to disbelieve. The panel was moderated by Lynn Sherr,

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who is greatly responsible for the stimulating nature of this program. The audience is growing every year. The following day, the New York Public Library held its annual spring luncheon in the Celeste Bartos Forum of the library on Fifth and 42nd. Although the women who chair and committee this event often get their husbands and other men to attend, it is mainly a women’s luncheon. The luncheon always features interviews with authors on their work. This year, Nora Ephron interviewed Hermione Lee, whose recent biography of Edith Wharton is now in paperback.

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Ephron needs no introduction. She is a child of Hollywood and Broadway, growing up in Beverly Hills, the daughter of two successful screenwriters at the very end of the Golden Age of the American movie industry. Ephron is a media pro. She grew up in a world defined by the motion-picture camera. Her childhood house and family appeared middleAmerican if you saw them in a movie, but it was hipper, much hipper. About as middle-American as Andy Warhol, because it was show a business called show. Hermione Lee is a well educated Englishwoman,

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a scholar, teacher, biographer, and English literature authority. Born and bred in postwar London, Lee’s father was a doctor and she went to the Lycée as a child. Her C.V. is rich in study and teaching, as well as writing. She’s also lectured in this country at Princeton. Currently she is the president of Wolfson College in Oxford. Straight out of the groves of academe, Lee’s world is devoid of actors and their multiple wives, Wall Street, and Aspen chalets. Her life is steeped in intellectual pursuit, no matter the project. It is a world of constant learning (something she shares with Wharton). The conversation started around Lee’s biography of Edith Wharton, and the world she wrote about, and soon moved into the business of divorce and women marrying for money. The character of Undine Spragg in Wharton’s The Custom

of the Country came up again and again. A girl buying her way in and up in New York society. Ephron remarked that she is often astounded today by the massive private wealth that she is exposed to, and the women who pursue it through the venue of holy matrimony. The mention of the entire subject caused a muffled tittering across this Belle Époque-style banquet room, filled to capacity with prominent women in New York present, some of whom began their social ascent in just that manner. The conversation lasted for about forty minutes. The women brought authority to the subject as well as curiosity. Ephron wondered why there are no novelists writing about the world Edith Wharton wrote about in her day. Everybody left the room with something to think about. This was, according to the library’s

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A president, Paul LeClerc, the most successful spring luncheon yet, raising more than $600,000. Kathy Rayner was director of table décor. The tablecloths were made of blown-up photographs of old New York City maps and renderings from the municipal archive. The only problem is they were covered with all the accoutrement of a luncheon table and centerpiece. They looked almost as fascinating as the conversation we heard. I was seated next Ivana Lowell, whose own memoir, Why Not Say What Happened?, is about a family and a way of life that would have interested Wharton. Today’s story, however, is

about the deconstruction and destruction of the society Wharton wrote about. It no longer exists. What has remained is the quest for the money and the getting and spending of it. That night was a busy one in New York also. There were two major galas: City Harvest’s “An Evening of Practical Magic” at Cipriani 42nd Street and the American Academy of Rome’s “Centenary Celebration Dinner” at The Plaza. The Academy honored Paul LeClerc and architect Frank Gehry. Mr. and Mrs. Sid R. Bass were dinner chairmen. Over at Cipriani, they honored Bill Koenigsberg,

president, CEO, and founder of Horizon Media. Cynthia Nixon hosted the evening. The following night was another busy one. I went down to the Waldorf to the Breast Cancer Research Foundation’s annual Pink Party. In the years since Evelyn Lauder started this charity, they have raised $350 million. On this night, they raised another $4.35 million—a record. The foundation is also one of the most efficiently managed of its kind, delivering more than 90 cents of every dollar to research. The evening’s theme was “Tickled Pink,” and was underwritten by Mike’s Hard Pink Lemonade. Elizabeth

Hurley again emceed the evening, with remarks by Lauder, Myra Biblowit (celebrating her tenth year as the foundation’s CEO), and Dr. Larry Norton of Memorial Sloan-Kettering. There was also the annual “Unsung Hero” award created by Roz and Les Goldstein for a person—not a relative—who frequently gives unsolicited assistance to someone undergoing treatment for breast cancer. This year’s award was given by Andrea Redmond to Terry Savage, a friend who “was there a lot of the time, unasked, helping the patient, helping the family, giving.” Terry Savage, some might know, is

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a nationally known expert on personal finance and a regular television commentator on issues related to investing. She writes a weekly column for the Chicago Sun-Times. In other words, she’s busy. And her friend, Redmond, was still often graced with Terry’s presence, assistance, and comforting presence during treatment. Lydia Fenet of Christie’s and Deborah Norville conducted an auction of two items: a weekend at the 2012 Oscar’s, including the Vanity Fair party, with two nights at the Sunset Tower, and a fantasy vacation at Donna Karan’s estate on the private island of Parrot Cay in Turks and Caicos for a maximum of five nights. They then solicited “researchday funds” in increments beginning at $100,000, with a final tally $350,000. Right after dinner, Lauder introduced Sir Elton John. He’s been playing this benefit 36 QUEST

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for several years now, and his appearance has aided the success of the event immeasurably. He told the audience that his friend Sting was really under the weather that day, feeling really sick. This is the third appearance Sting has made in a week for benefits–the first being the anniversary concert at Carnegie Hall. Elton was prepared to make up for Sting’s absence himself, but Sting wanted to go on anyway. The performance started with Elton performing his classic “Your Song,” followed by “Tiny Dancer,” and then “I Guess That’s Why They Call It the Blues.” No accompaniment, just Sir Elton and his piano. You realize the voice and the piano is all you need. If you’ve never seen him in concert (I have, once, at Radio City), you’ll know that he loves what he does, and he gives a show that you’ll

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never forget. Sting came on with an orchestra. Knowing he was ill, we were looking for signs. There were none. Dressed in his signature black jeans and waistcoat, it was pure Sting. Again, like Elton, it’s the voice that provides the instrumentation. He sang “Roxanne,” his first hit, accompanying himself on the guitar, and three other Sting tunes. On a Tuesday at the Museum of the City of New York, I saw a visual retrospective of “Joel Grey: A New York Life.” A highlight of the exhibition is the man’s visionary photographs of New York’s urban scene, including a collection of his cell phone photographs. This year, Joel is celebrating his seventy-ninth birthday, which to these ears sounds “far out.” I saw him on the second night of Cabaret. I can still see him strut across that stage,

evoking the angles and the energies of both Astaire and Cagney in his white tie and tails, creating a character as instantly iconic as a George Grosz image. I saw him in the film, too, which was great, but the experience of watching the man be a character of a time and place with all its emotional ramifications said something else; a masterpiece performance. It’s the same as seeing great art, maybe even better because it’s here and then it’s gone, leaving only memory. In later years I’ve gotten to know him slightly. He’s so unlike that Berlin nightclub emcee of Cabaret (he’s a very kind gentleman, always with a ready smile and an interested ear) that I always wondered how he did it. Although I know: genius. Those performances that stick in your craw like a Technicolor strip of celluloid for forty years confirm it. On a Friday mid-month,

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A Chuck Pfeifer celebrated his seventieth birthday at Elaine’s. I’ve known Chuck for quite some time, although not well, but to know him is to know about him instinctively. His professional image has been that of a real macho sort of American guy—Park Avenue kid, Dartmouth, West Point, Green Beret in Vietnam, Silver Star, Bronze Star, Purple Heart, Winston cigarette image in the 1970s, rancher, bon vivant, actor (his friend Oliver Stone put him in Wall Street), businessman … He’s had an amazing life and career, basically a portrait of his American generation—and he’s one of the nicest people you could meet in New York.

A lot of people were there, (Elaine would have loved it), and I could see from Patrick McMullan’s pictures that it was a real Elaine’s night—pals everywhere, camaraderie, stories, jokes, music, and good fun. That’s what happens when Chuck Pfeifer’s around. I’m sorry I missed it. Happy birthday, Chuck, here’s to the next seventy (hey, you never know). Midas touching. Over that weekend I watched L’Amour Fou, the new documentary about the sale of the Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé Collection at Christie’s two years ago. The film opened at the Tribeca Film Festival the following week. It’s the story

of Yves Saint Laurent’s rise and fall. Actually, it’s the story of the relationship between the designer and Bergé. Actually, it’s the story of Bergé’s life. Actually, Yves Saint Laurent is the story of Pierre Bergé’s life. Period. Pierre Bergé is the only living subject of this tale, so the camera was mainly his. He’s quite comfortable in his close-ups, and he carries his action shots like a real pro. Ahh, but maybe that’s the rub: he is an actor. The world is a stage after all, and no doubt the French have a phrase to describe his ascent into the orbits of the privileged and powerful. It opens with St. Laurent

delivering a black-and-white video speech about his life, reading the explanation of his decision to leave the fashion business, as well as acknowledging his battle— which he conquered—with alcohol and drugs. In the video he is aging and awkwardly plumpish. He appears permanently pained and angry. He looks harassed. You feel his intense discomfort. You can see that he must want to just finish this “speech” and get out of there. The camera moves to color and Bergé recalls their life, from the beginning, recalling Yves’s early history and why he was fired from Dior after succeeding the master and

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producing a winning line. Bergé met him around the time it happened. The young Bergé was handsome, with a shrewd, bantam-like energy. You can see that he was not someone to mess with. The young Yves was tall and willowy. They had met at a small dinner given by a friend in a restaurant in Montmartre and there was a mutual attraction. Soon after they were living together. When the axe fell at Dior, Bergé suggested Yves go out on his own, with Bergé managing the business. The story of Yves’s meteoric rise and their spectacular business success is demonstrated. 40 QUEST

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Their lives remind one of the paths taken by Valentino Garavani and his partner Giancarlo Giammetti, which also explains the designer’s great financial success and fame. The personalities of the two couples are very different. Yves was always a delicate boy. He was the most he could be and, when it worked, it was genius, as well as hugely successful. However, when he became a success, his natural disposition couldn’t place it within his shell. He found his way out of that with drugs and alcohol. It is always a fool’s journey but a common, even ordinary one, as many of us know.

All of this story is told in the film while we tour the duo’s vast collection of acquisitions, art, objets, sculptures, houses, and gardens, all amidst Bergé’s on-screen narrative. As the story moves along, the auction house specialists and movers begin to appear in the background, going through everything in preparing for the auction. Bergé is getting rid of their lifetime of collecting together. Everything must go. You realize when watching that Bergé is now an old man and is putting things in order. His manner is deliberate. He speaks slowly and thoughtfully. All is said without a trace of private

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emotion. I don’t understand French well, but the brief subtitles do the job well. You learn that in their relationship, Bergé, besides being companion, was caretaker and financial adviser, and was therefore very powerful. Without him, Yves would never have been YSL. Never. That’s Bergé’s genius. The sale itself, which took place in two parts at the Grand Palais in 2009, was one of the great social events of the year, maybe the decade. For some of those attending it was the epilogue of a life and time that has passed for good for everyone. The total sales were record-breaking, somewhere

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around a half-billion dollars. For Bergé it was Le Finis, which he handled in probably the same way he handled Yves: by moving forward. For Yves, you realize the gravity of that cliché “money can’t buy happiness.” Nor can genius. There was something dark about the auction, like a picking over of the bones of the prey. That’s L’Amour Fou. The other side of paradise. On the following Tuesday, I went down to Michael’s to lunch with Brooke Hayward, who I haven’t seen in several weeks. She reissued her best-selling family memoir Haywire (first published in 1977) a couple of months 42 QUEST

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ago. Liz Smith told me she had re-read it and concluded that it was the best book about a celebrity family that she’d ever read. Brooke’s father was Leland Hayward, the super-agent and distinguished and highly successful Broadway producer (Gypsy, Sound of Music, etc.). (Leland’s stepmother was the lady who sold her mansion for a million-dollar pearl necklace.) Brooke’s favorite stepmother was Slim Keith, who was succeeded by his last wife, Pamela, who then married Averell Harriman, and caused more than much ado. Brooke’s mother was

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Margaret Sullavan, a major film and stage star in the 1940s and 1950s. She was also married to Henry Fonda, whose first wife committed suicide. His next wife, Brooke’s mother, later committed suicide in 1960, at the age of fifty-one. Brooke’s younger sister and brother followed suit years later. The family grew up glamorously in Beverly Hills and a farm in Connecticut called “Haywire.” Glamorously, that is, if you factor out the intense depression running through their veins. It is a compelling story, and masterfully told. Although Brooke is not impressed by her own talent, her writing style is direct, like

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a reporter’s. Friends have been after her for a long time to write the next chapter. Now in the process of getting a divorce from Peter Duchin, it’s a good time for her to turn the page and push the quill. This is my opinion, not hers. She’s had three husbands, including the recently departed Dennis Hopper, with whom she has a daughter, Marin. She also has two sons with her first husband, the gnarlingly witty and perspicacious social, political, and financial commentator Michael Thomas. It’s a movie. A great woman’s role for one our biggest young stars. u

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Bernardsville, NJ – This magnificent stone and stucco Manor House – built on a portion of the former, historic Stevens Estate. Fireplaces warm both the family room and the library. Other spacious rooms include a country kitchen with center island and a master suite with dressing and sitting rooms. Infinity pool and a home-width deck, plus an extraordinary 2-family carriage house with six bedrooms. $3,250,000

Mendham Twp., NJ – A legendary stone manor in tranquil “Pleasant Valley,” the regal Schiff Estate offers unparalleled lake views, terraced gardens, and a lavish pool. Originally built in 1914, the sumptuous 21-room home has been meticulously restored and remodeled to combine the splendor of that bygone era with 21st century amenities and technology. $5,000,000

New Vernon, NJ – Tucked away in the pastoral heart of estate country, this light and airy 16-room Mediterranean villa showcases a refined grandeur. Its flawless design and appointments evoke ancient Greek or Roman classicism within today’s modern context. A quintessential library, an epicurean kitchen and a masterful first-floor owner’s suite support an enviable lifestyle. $6,500,000

James Barry, Jr. x6105

Alice Samach x6122

James Barry, Jr. x6105

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THESE AND OTHER FINE HOMES, CALL 1-888-962-7722 AND DIAL 4-DIGIT CODE. ®

Truly Uncommon Representation

To find your country home, call us at 1-800-785-3000 • Historic Homes • Waterfront Properties • Horse Farms • Country Homes • Luxury Condominiums Weichert Capital Properties & Estates is a division of Weichert, Realtors®

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A t h e d e y o u n g m u s e u m â&#x20AC;&#x2122; s m i d - w i nt e r g a l a i n s a n f r a n c i s c o

Sloan Barnett and Leslie Thieriot

Vanessa Getty 50 QUEST

Victoire Brown

John and Erin Lowenberg

Billy Getty and Simon Thieriot

Katie Schwab and Matt Patterson

Katie Traina and Connie Nielsen

Marissa Mayer and Allison Speer

Kathryn Lasater

d r e w a lt i z e r

Trevor Traina and Roger Barnett

Experience the divine Legends

H. KocH June 23â&#x20AC;&#x201C;26 | LincoLn centeR | DaviD tHeateR

CenterCharge 212-721-6500 | www.ChineseArtsRevival.org Based in New York, Shen Yun Performing Arts is the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s premier Chinese dance and music company.

D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A c e l e b r at i n g C h u c k P f e i f e r â&#x20AC;&#x2122; s b i r t h d ay at e l a i n e â&#x20AC;&#x2122; s

Caroline Coleman, Walter Terry and Priscilla Ulmann

Eddia Mathias, Genevieve Bahrenburg, Michael Mailer and Lisa Cosby

John-Taki Theodoracopulos and Princess Alexandra Schoenburg-Hartenstein 52 QUEST

Carolina and Reinaldo Herrera

Frank Ginsberg and John Mosley

Vintage Birthday Boy

James Signorelli

Jim Freund and Barbara Fox

Griffin Dunne

Mike Meehan and Jean Vanderbilt

Jay McInerney and Courtney Braun

Chuck Pfeifer and Taki Theodoracopulos

Gerry Ogier and Phil Sylvestri

Pat Toogood and Marshall Bell

Hendrik Hertzberg, Gay Talese, and Cyndi Stivers

pat r i c k m c m u ll a n

Bartle Bull and Felicia Taylor

Greenwich

Exciting Waterfront

Dramatic Lakefront

$4,950,000 www.byramwaterfront.com Exclusive Agent Krissy Blake

Price Upon Request www.excitingmidcountry.com Exclusive Agent Krissy Blake

Classic Georgian

Charming Mid Country

$4,895,000 www.peckslandclassic.com Exclusive Agent Brad Hvolbeck

$4,850,000 www.moveinonhill.com Exclusive Agent Brad Hvolbeck

123 Mason Street

•

www.prubhre.com Greenwich, Connecticut 06830

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203.661.5505

D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A t h e l e n o x h i l l n e i g h b o r h o o d h o u s e â&#x20AC;&#x2122; s s p r i n g g a l a a t c i p r i a n i 4 2 nd st r e e t

Sharon Handler and John Loeb

Elizabeth and Felix Rohatyn

Richard Nye and Francesca Stanfill

Louise Masano and Frank Folz

Stan and Sydney Shuman with Diana Quasha

Elizabeth Edelman and Ingrid Edelman

Kathy and Othon Prounis

T h e e a st s i d e h o u s e s e tt l e m e nt p r e v i e w s t h e n e w y o r k i nt e r n a t i o nA l a u t o s h o w a t t h e j a c o b j a v i ts c e nt e r

Zev Eisenberg and Lisa Yom 54 QUEST

Lydia Fenet and Katelyn Delaney

Fe Fendi and Mariana Zois

Justin Concannon, Roric Tobin, Chiu-Ti Jansen and Geoffrey Bradfield

Lake Bell

Meghan Asha and James Corl

pat r i c k m c m u ll a n

Bob Lutz

D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A h e n r y st r e e t s e tt l e m e nt g a l a a t t h e p l a z a h o t e l

Lauren Remington Platt and Anna Pinheiro

Lesley and David Schulhof

Crisitiano Mancini

Ursula Burns and Dale Burch

Maria and Julio Pekarovic with Pilar Crespi

Sharon Bush and Lauren Bush

Priscilla Bijur

Gerry Kane

Anna Pinheiro and Lara Meiland-Shaw

l o s An g e l e s C o u nt y M u s e u m o f A r t â&#x20AC;&#x2122; s 2 0 1 1 C o l l e c t o r s C o m m i tt e e d i nn e r

Veronique Peck and Firooz Zahedi

Asia Chow and Colleen Bell 56 QUEST

Lucrezia Buccellati

Rachelle Khoury and Steve Tisch

Eva Chow

Julian Sands, Katherine Ross and Robert Iger

Viveca and Will Ferrell

Kyle MacLachlan and Desiree Gruber

Ge o r g e H i ro se / pat r i c k m c m u ll a n

Deborah Chase

A Boutique Prewar Condominium

Exquisite Conversion. Flawless Design. Impeccable Quality. The Finest Finishes.

24 hour doorman

Live-in resident manager

Smart Home Technology

Grand chefâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eat-in kitchens

All new wiring, plumbing and infrastructure

with Waterworks fixtures

Oversized tilt & turn windows

Custom millwork

Handcrafted and custom marble and mosaic tile bathrooms

Multi-zoned heating and air conditioning

Storage bins and bicycle rooms

ONLY TWO HOMES LEFT 5 Bedroom Duplex with Private Garden $5.499M 6 Bedroom Penthouse with Private Roof Terrace $9.998M Director of Sales: Lisa Lippman 212-588-5606

Fitness room

D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A H o u s e o f l a v a nd e s h o w e d j e w e l r y b y A l a n And e r s o n i n P a l m b e a c h

Corrin Carr and Lindsey Stanford

Colleen Orrico and Tom Eversmann

Kelly Murray and Beth Beattie

Tracy Smith and Alan Anderson

Carter and Afsy Pottash

Linda Soper and Liz Fifield

Nicole Munder and Jenny Gooch

t u r n a r o u nd f o r c h i l d r e n â&#x20AC;&#x2122; s d i nn e r a t t h e p l a z a h o t e l

Fernanda Niven

Jenn Brill, Derek Blasberg and Shoshanna Gruss 58 QUEST

Alison Brod and Jennifer Ruff

Stephanie WInston Wolkoff

Sasha Heinz and Bronson Van Wyck

pat r i c k m c m u ll a n

Eleanor Ylvisaker

RO G E R E R I C K S O N

O P P O RT U N I T I E S

CLASSIC WESTSIDE TOWNHOUSE: Close to Central Park and Lincoln Center. 19’ wide, 5 story, renovated, 5 bedrooms, eat-in kitchen, sunny planted garden, terrace and professional recording studio. $8,450,000. WEB: Q0017323

FIFTH AVENUE DUPLEX: Glamorous prewar duplex in mint condition with a sun drenched terrace. Opulent master suite with 2 baths and 2 dressing rooms. Full service building with a gym and storage. $4,250,000. WEB: Q0017516

PREWAR PENTHOUSE: 79th Street, Lexington/Third. Outstanding value! ± 3,000 sq. ft. duplex with ±1,000 sq. ft. planted and sun-flooded terrace. Wood burning fireplace, 3 bedrooms, full service building. $3,950,000. WEB: Q0017375

RIVERSIDE DRIVE MANSION: Historic 26’ wide townhouse with views of Riverside Park and the Hudson River. This gracious home has many original details, ±7,500 square feet of living space including 7 bedrooms, formal dining room, living room, den, library, eat-in kitchen and finished basement. Not to be missed! $14,750,000. WEB: Q0017528

EAST SIDE MANHATTAN BROKERAGE I sothebyshomes.com/nyc 38 EAST 61ST STREET NEW YORK, NY 10065 T 212.606.7660 F 212.606.7661 ROGER ERICKSON SENIOR MANAGING DIRECTOR I T 212.606.7612 I www.roger-erickson.com Sotheby’s International Realty, Inc. is owned and operated by NRT LLC. Sotheby’s International Realty® is a registered trademark.

CALENDAR

May

stars and stripes

Daughters of the American Revolution will hold a luncheon at the Beach Club in Palm Beach. For more information, call 202.628.1776. say cheese

Operation Smile will host an event at 6:30 p.m. at Cipriani Wall Street. For more information, call 888.OPSMILE.

scales and arpeggios

The New York Philharmonic will host one of its musical suppers with chef Marcus Samuelsson at Arpeggio Food & Wine. For more information, call 212.875.5656. take a stand

Women Against M.S. will hold a luncheon at 10 a.m. at the Hyatt Regency in Old Greenwich. For more information, call 800.913.2550.

out with the old

The outdoor antiques market will take place at 10 a.m. at the Lounsbury House at 316 Main Street in Ridgefield, Connecticut. For more information, call 203.438.6962.

Design dream

Scully & Scully designers Jonathan Tait and Rebecca Nielsen present “Creating a Classic Home in the 21st Century.” For more information, call 212.755.2590. down by the river

On May 2, the New York Pops will celebrate its twenty-eighth birthday with “Celebrate Hope,” an evening honoring the legacy of Bob Hope. The concert will feature a variety of special performers, including the singers of the Camp Broadway Kids and the West Point Glee Club. For more information, call 212.304.7223.

full house

The National Corporate Theatre Fund gala will take place at 6:30 p.m. at the St. Regis Hotel. For more information, call 212.750.6895.

The Fountain House symposium and luncheon will take place at 11:15 a.m. at The Pierre Hotel. For more information, call 212.874.5457.

it’s an art

top of the pops

The Institute of Classical Architecture and Classical America will host its Arthur Ross gala at 7 p.m. at the University Club. For more information, call 212.730.9646.

The New York Pops will celebrate the legacy of Bob Hope with a gala concert and dinner dance beginning at 7 p.m. at Carnegie Hall. For more information, call 212.247.3278.

all the world’s a stage

60QUEST

The Friends of Hudson River Park will host its annual gala at The Tunnel. For more information, call 914.579.1000.

spin around

Gray Matters at Columbia will hold its spring luncheon at 11 a.m. at the Plaza Hotel. For more information, call 212.304.7223.

The New York City Ballet’s spring gala will take place at 5:30 p.m. at the David H. Koch Theater. For more information, call 212.870.5585.

The Society of Memorial SloanKettering Cancer Center’s Spring Ball will take place at 7 p.m. at the Pierre Hotel. For more information, call 212.639.2000.

The Juvenile Diabetes Research Foundation will host “Spring for a Cure” at the Metropolitan Pavilion. For more information, call 800.533.CURE.

mind over matter

spring ahead

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CALENDAR

May Prevention of Cruelty to Children will hold a benefit at 8 p.m. at the Empire State Building. For more information, call 212.233.5500.

JUNE 1

gotham city

The Gordon Parks Foundation will host “Celebrating Creativity” at 6:30 p.m. at Gotham Hall. For more information, call 914.579.1000.

garden of eden

The New York Botanical Garden Conservatory Ball will take place at 7:30 p.m. For more information, call 914.579.1000.

razzle dazzle

On May 4, the Society of Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center will host its fourth annual Spring Ball at the Pierre Hotel. Since 2008, the event has raised nearly $5.5 million. This year, guests will be treated to a performance by Sheryl Crow. For more information, call 212.639.2000.

french fÊte

The Young Patrons Circle of American Friends of the Louvre will hold its Soirée au Louvre at 8:30 p.m. at 740 Park Avenue. For more information, call 212.367.2645. it’s in the bag

The YWCA of Greenwich will host its Old Bag’s luncheon at 11 a.m. at the Belle Haven Club in Greenwich, Connecticut. For more information, call 203.869.6501. we’ve got spirit

The fourth annual Spirit of Hope dinner will take place at 6 p.m. at the Hilton Hotel in Stamford, Connecticut. For more information, call 203.604.1145.

walk it off

The CureSearch Walk for childhood cancer will begin at noon at Town Hall in Ridgefield, Connecticut. For more information, call 732.737.4809.

find your center

The National Center on Addiction and Substance Abuse at Columbia University will host its awards dinner at 6:30 p.m. at the Pierre 62 QUEST

Hotel. For more information, call 212.627.1000.

into the wild

The Wildlife Conservation Society’s Explorer’s Party will be held at 6 p.m. at the Central Park Zoo. For more information, call 718.741.1639.

raise the roof

The American Cancer Society’s Celebration of Life benefit will take place at 6:30 p.m. on the roof of the St. Regis Hotel. For more information, call 212.237.3888.

empire state of mind

The New York Society for the

The Silvermine Arts Center’s “Jazz on the Sound” will take place at 5 p.m. at the residence of Donald Axleroad in Stamford, Connecticut. For more information, call 203.966.9700.

day at the zoo

The Wildlife Conservation Society’s annual spring benefit, “Elephants and Ivory,” will take place at 6:30 p.m. at the Central Park Zoo. For more information, call 973.233.1150. dig the dirt

The Garden Education Center of Greenwich will begin its Grandiflora Garden Tour at 10 a.m. For more information, call 203.869.9242.

celebrate good times

A Cause 4 Celebration will present “Brunch Party 4 a Cause” to benefit the Cohen Children’s Medical Center at noon at Bar Basque. For more information, call 240.535.0710. run for life

The Pineapple Classic, a 5k run to benefit the Leukemia and Lymphoma Society, will begin at 9 a.m. at the Greenwich Polo Club. For more information, call 203.665.1400.

hole in one

The YWCA of Greenwich will host its ninth annual charity golf tournament at 11 a.m. at the Greenwich Country Club. For more information, call 203.869.6501.

On June 9, the Central Park Zoo will hold its “Elephants and Ivory” spring benefit. Proceeds from the event will benefit the Wildlife Conservation Society’s five New York parks, as well as its education and global conservation programs. For more information, call 973.233.1150.

ROBERTA.McCAFFREYREALTY ROBERTA.McCAFFREYREALTY Garrison • Cold Spring, NY • 60 Mins NYC Westchester,Putnam,DutchessMLS Garrison • Cold Spring, NY • 60 Mins NYC Westchester,Putnam,DutchessMLS

143MainStreet,ColdSpring,NY10516 143MainStreet,ColdSpring,NY10516 Tel:845.265.4113•www.mccaffreyrealty.com Tel:845.265.4113•www.mccaffreyrealty.com info@mccaffreyrealty.com info@mccaffreyrealty.com Garrison

Country colonial on quiet culde-sac in historic area offers 1784 square feet, fireplace in living room, open kitchen with granite and stainless, and a large master suite with Juliet balcony. A large mahogany deck overlooks lawn and woods, pool, 1 car garage. Offered at $825,000

GARRISON, NY - Enjoy the ultimate in condo living in THE CASTLE, a well-known landmark high above the Hudson River. This luxurious 2 floor, 2 bedroom unit offers breathGARRISON, NY - Enjoy the ultimate in condo living in THE CASTLE, a well-known taking views from Bear Mountain Bridge to Newburgh Bay. It has huge open rooms, 12 to 15 landmark high above the Hudson River. This luxurious 2 floor, 2 bedroom unit offers breathfoot ceilings, 4 fireplaces, gourmet kitchen, and sumptuous baths. It also offers outdoor spaces, taking views from Bear Mountain Bridge to Newburgh Bay. It has huge open rooms, 12 to 15 central air conditioning, and garaging for 2 cars. Offered at $2,999,999 foot ceilings, 4 fireplaces, gourmet kitchen, and sumptuous baths. It also offers outdoor spaces, central air conditioning, and garaging for 2 cars. Offered at $2,999,999

EAST FISHKILL, Dutchess County, NY - Wiccopee House. Circa 1894, this beautiful estate on 17.6 acres, includes the 7000 square foot Georgian style main house featuring EAST FISHKILL, Dutchess County, NY - Wiccopee House. Circa 1894, this beau6 bedrooms, gleaming wood floors, multiple fireplaces, period details and a gourmet tiful estate on 17.6 acres, includes the 7000 square foot Georgian style main house featuring kitchen. Additional features include a 100’ x 30’ barn with a 2 bedroom apartment, pad6 bedrooms, gleaming wood floors, multiple fireplaces, period details and a gourmet dock, pool, and tennis court. Offered at $2,495,000 kitchen. Additional features include a 100’ x 30’ barn with a 2 bedroom apartment, paddock, pool, and tennis court. Offered at $2,495,000

Putnam Valley

The wall of windows in this contemporary lakeside cottage frames a fabulous view of Lake Oscawana. The home offers spacious open floor plan, hardwood floors, commercial grade kitchen, 2 bedrooms and den. A boathouse and dock enhance the lake frontage, and a separate 1 bedroom cottage will charm your guests. Offered at $889,000

GARRISON, NY - Spacious and open country home with fabulous HUDSON RIVER VIEWS to the west and north to Storm King Mt and Newburgh Bay. The living room features GARRISON, NY - Spacious and open country home with fabulous HUDSON RIVER cathedral ceiling and stone fireplace, and all living areas enjoy the views and access to stone terVIEWS to the west and north to Storm King Mt and Newburgh Bay. The living room features races. 4 bedrooms and 2 ½ baths, includes huge master suite privately located on its own level. cathedral ceiling and stone fireplace, and all living areas enjoy the views and access to stone terThe in-ground pool and cabana further enhance the 5.6 acre property. Offered at $1,995,000 races. 4 bedrooms and 2 ½ baths, includes huge master suite privately located on its own level. The in-ground pool and cabana further enhance the 5.6 acre property. Offered at $1,995,000

COLD SPRING, NY - Masterfully designed contemporary offers massive two story entry, living room and dining room sharing a grand floor to ceiling stone fireplace, large COLD SPRING, NY - Masterfully designed contemporary offers massive two story chef’s kitchen and 4 bedrooms. Walls of French doors lead to deck cantilevered over rushentry, living room and dining room sharing a grand floor to ceiling stone fireplace, large ing mountain stream. Delightful details and high quality materials are evident throughout chef’s kitchen and 4 bedrooms. Walls of French doors lead to deck cantilevered over rushthe home which is sited on almost 5 acres. Offered at $1,875,000 ing mountain stream. Delightful details and high quality materials are evident throughout the home which is sited on almost 5 acres. Offered at $1,875,000

Putnam Valley

GARRISON, NY - Courtside. This rustic stone barn, whose distinctive architecture sets it apart from the ordinary, has been converted into 10,000 square feet of luxurious GARRISON, NY - Courtside. This rustic stone barn, whose distinctive architecture living space. The home features large public rooms, country kitchen, 7-8 bedrooms and sets it apart from the ordinary, has been converted into 10,000 square feet of luxurious a separate 2 bedroom apartment. The beautifully landscaped 4 acre property also offers living space. The home features large public rooms, country kitchen, 7-8 bedrooms and a tennis court and gunite pool. Offered at $1,650,000 a separate 2 bedroom apartment. The beautifully landscaped 4 acre property also offers a tennis court and gunite pool. Offered at $1,650,000

This contemporary lakefront home features expansive views of Roaring Brook Lake. Recently updated with new kitchen and other carefully selected features, the home offers the best of lakeside living with a large deck and dock. The two story atrium collects sunshine for dining room and office and the walk-out lower level houses 2 bedrooms, full bath and kitchenette. Putnam Valley, NY - Lovely country retreat on almost 5 acres. This C. 1935 home offers Offered athardwood $1,250,000 4356 square feet, 5 bedrooms, 4 ½ baths, 2 working fireplaces, floors, and numerous

Putnam Valley, NY - Lovely country retreat on almost 5 acres. This C. 1935 home offers window seats, nooks and crannies for added character. The glorious backyard features an in4356 square feet, 5 bedrooms, 4 ½ baths, 2 working fireplaces, hardwood floors, and numerous ground pool with spa and sizeable barbeque and patio area. The property also includes a forwindow seats, nooks and crannies for added character. The glorious backyard features an inmer dairy barn and pond. Offered at $1,300,000 ground pool with spa and sizeable barbeque and patio area. The property also includes a former dairy barn and pond. Offered at $1,300,000

Member of Westchester/Putnam, MLS • Mid-Hudson MLS (Dutchess County) Greater Hudson Valley MLS • (Orange, Rockland, Ulster, Sullivan Counties) Member of Westchester/Putnam, MLSand • Mid-Hudson MLSmany (Dutchess County) Greaterand Hudson • (Orange, Ulster, Sullivan Counties) For more information on these other listings, with full brochures floor Valley plans, MLS visit our website:Rockland, www.mccaffreyrealty.com For more information on these and other listings, many with full brochures and floor plans, visit our website: www.mccaffreyrealty.com

H A R RY B E N S O N

IT SEEMS LIKE YESTERDAY THE FIRST TIME I photographed HRH Queen Elizabeth II was in 1958. She had come to Scotland to open Rothes Colliery, a coal mine in Glenrothes, Fife. Appearances like that are an occupational obligation for royalty. In a conscious effort to exhibit a modern spirit, her majesty was persuaded to don a miner’s outfit and descend into the newly opened mine shaft, rather than simply remain at the top to cut the ribbon. She then visited the new town of Glenrothes, which was created to house the expanding workforce. Embarrassingly, the multimillion-dollar colliery proved susceptible to flooding and had to be closed in 1962. The photograph shown here was taken in Ottawa, Ontario, in June of 1967, when HRH was in Canada to take part in the Centennial celebration. Here she is on her way to a formal state dinner, bejeweled for the occasion. In the new portrait, taken this past July at Holyrood Palace in Edinburgh, Scotland, Her Majesty wears a diamond brooch in the shape of a Scottish Thistle, the national emblem of Scotland since the rein of Alexander III. The story goes 64 QUEST

that the invading army of King Haakon of Norway landed at night and crept barefoot to surprise the sleeping Scottish troops, but one Norseman stepped on a thistle with its sharp prickles, let out a yell, and in the ensuing turmoil, the Scots easily won the battle. The most important thing an editor would ask when on my way from an assignment to photograph HRH was, “Did you get her smiling?” The British newspapers liked to tag a photograph with a headline like, “Smiling Queen Visits Scotland,” or “Happy in Trinidad.” It was always important to try to get a shot of the Queen smiling. I like to photograph people smiling, not only royalty or celebrities. As a result I was pleased when HRH the Queen laughed, as I reminded her that I had photographed her at the Scottish coal mine she visited some fifty-three years ago. Yet, when I have a moment with the Queen of England, I am not there to tell jokes, I’m there to get as much done as possible in the shortest amount of time. I’m pleased with the result and pleased to say that Quest is the first to publish my new portrait. u

HRH Queen Elizabeth photographed last July. Opposite: HRH Queen Elizabeth, 1967.

Ta k i

love hurts “Eureka! A broken heart causes physical pain,” screams an English tabloid headline. I could have saved them the trouble and the research. Of course a broken heart causes pain—take it from someone who has been hurting most of his adult life. When I was young, every time I saw Ava Gardner on the screen I felt as if a knife was being twisted inside me. Ditto when the bubbly Betty Grable came on, or Cyd Charisse, or, my special love, Linda Christian, who made very few movies but went out rather a lot with one young Greek called Taki. Now that I’m a senior citizen it’s even worse. Rebecca Hall, star of Woody Allen’s brilliant Vicky, Christina, Barcelona, brings on caprices that border on kidnap and rape, not to mention proposals of marriage and everlasting fidelity. Keira Knightley is another lady for whom I’d gladly give my life in exchange for one night of pleasure. For centuries, poets, novelists, and songwriters have tried to describe the pain of a broken heart. But it has taken a team of boring scientists to prove that the agony of rejection and unrequited love is more than a simple emotional response. Experiments show that being dumped activates brain regions more usually associated with processing physical pain, such as the searing sensation of being burnt. I felt burnt when my first wife left me for conduct unbecoming of a married man—I had couple of mistresses, as if that was a reason for breaking up a happy One look at the likes of Betty Grable and this writer feels a knife twisting in his heart.

household—and I stayed in pain for a while, until I met my present wife thirtyeight years ago. She’s a good girl who realizes that co-habitation with a lothario entails turning a blind eye once in awhile. If happiness is the object of morality, of all unions and disunions, it is naturally dissolved when its evils are greater than its benefits. Constancy has nothing virtuous in itself—love is free. To promise to forever love the same woman is fine and dandy. As is to cheat, for a man, of course. Men give themselves freely, women do not. I hope you get my drift. The scientists who came up with something I could have told them long ago, scanned the brains of people as they looked at pictures of their exes. They scanned them again as they looked at pictures of friends and remembered happy times they spent together. The former made them feel as if they were touched by a hot poker, the latter made them feel peaceful and fulfilled. Forty scientists contributed to these experiments. Tax payers should protest to the highest authorities. All the mugs had to do was ring me. In 1957, I flew to Los Angeles to see Joan Collins, back then a beautiful twenty-four-year-old rising English star. I stayed at the Beverly Hills hotel and we had a very good week together. Then, one night, she told me she had just signed on a cowboy film with Gregory Peck, Los Bravados, and I was given my walking papers. I was twenty years old and crushed. Burnt, rather. (To set the record straight, this first appeared in her autobiography, Past Imperfect, as I’m not in the habit of spilling the beans about ex-girlfriends.) I came back to New York a walking wounded man until my father, a great admirer of Joan’s, took pity and gave me the funds to go to Paris and forget her. Which I did in no time. The City of Light is the place to go to recover from burns, and I sure recovered. Then Joan arrived in the company of the great director Stanley Donen, and we met at the Ritz for a drink. I was wounded all over again. Joan and I remain good friends to this day, and she writes the occasional notebook for the Spectator, to which I’ve been a columnist these last thirty-five years. We often tell our story to the editors, most of whom

The mere sight of the beautiful Cyd Charisse causes this writer heartache.

were not born when all the shenanigans were taking place. So, there you have it. Love hurts, and unrequited love hurts like no other. Love is a restless and impatient passion, full of caprices and variations, arising from a feature, from an air, from nothing, and suddenly extinguishing after the same manner. Such passion requires liberty above all things, otherwise it’s false. How can one be madly in love and have to go to the office or to one’s home at a certain hour? Friendship, on the other hand, is a calm and sedate affection, conducted by reason and cemented by habit and obligation. It’s without jealousies or fears, and without those feverish fits of hot and cold,

which cause such an agreeable torment in the amorous passion. So, once the passion is spent, as it’s bound to, the marriage knot will subsist by friendship, solid and sincere as real friendship tends to be, and the union will gain from it. Next time any of you readers feel passion followed by a burning and painful sensation, don’t call a doctor, don’t get drunk, and don’t bore your friends with it. As the song says, “You’re not sick, you’re just in love.” And she has dumped you. Go for the next one but don’t forget to be extra nice to the wife. u   For more Taki, visit takimag.com. M AY 2 0 1 1 6 7

Quest

Fresh Finds by da n i e l c a p p e l lo AND e l i z a b e t h m e i g h e r

may is a celebration of spring—and the perfect month for springing forward with fair-weather fashions. May also marks Quest’s annual Jewelry Issue, so naturally we’ve found some of the greatest treasures on the market, from adornments for your wrist to rings and sunburst pins. You can also suit him up in classic khaki or a punch of purple. And, while you’re at it, don’t forget to take a break and plan a little Caribbean trip: Casa de Campo is offering some choice packages.

Sunburst amber pin with blue topaz center, available in small or large, and amber flower pin with blue topaz center. Price upon request. Sorab & Roshi: 914.763.2140 or sorabandroshi.com.

Flying the friendly skies just got easier with the “Lady computer bag, named after Amelia Earhart. Small ($175) or large ($200). Bobara by Andrea Nadosy: bobara.com.

Tweed duster coat ($2,100), silk top ($690), and tweed wide-leg trousers ($900). Etro: 720 Madison Avenue, 212.317.9096, or etro.com. 68 QUEST

J u s t i n E lle d g e o f M a x P h oto g r a p h y ( B o b a r a )

Lindy” checkpoint-friendly

For a night on the town, sling on Asprey’s purple

Nothing is sleeker than the black galuchat cuff bracelet with black onyx octagon and diamonds.

or orange Regent coin purse in

$3,300. Ivanka Trump Fine Jewelry:

crocodile. $460. Asprey: 853 Madison Avenue

685 Madison Avenue or 888.756.9912.

or 212.688.1811.

A stunning choice: Paola Quadretti’s Sorento silkblend dress in mandarin red. $1,900. Paola Quadretti Salon:

The men’s

111 East 61st Street,

Spiritual bead

3rd Floor, or 212.355.4440.

bracelet with either 6-mm or 10-mm beads in red coral, green onyx, or turquoise. $275-$675. David Yurman: 712 Madison Avenue or 212.752.4255.

A chef-d’oeuvre for hors d’oeuvre time: David Webb’s Cornelian cocktail ring in yellow gold, platinum, and diamonds.

samp tk

Price upon request. Tiffany’s archival gemstone and enamel earrings

David Webb: 942 Madison Avenue or 212.421.3030.

are masterpieces of design. $17,000. Tiffany & Co.: 800.843.3269 or tiffany.com. MAY 2 0 1 1 6 9

Fresh Finds Escape to the sea with Casa de Campo’s “A Pirate’s Life” package, inspired by Disney’s Pirates of the Carribean: On Stranger Ties. Casa de Campo: 800.877.3643 or casadecampo.com.do.

The most fashionable of men will surely pull off Roberto Cavalli’s purple suit, eggplant shirt, and print scarf. Price upon request. Roberto Cavalli: Roberto Cavalli boutiques.

Time’s on your side with the Rieussec Monopusher chronograph automatic in 18-kt. white gold. $43,200. Montblanc: 598 Madison Avenue, 800.995.4810, or montblanc.com.

Send him flying with these acetate aviator sunglasses in amber. $250. Ralph Lauren Purple Label: select Ralph Lauren stores or ralphlauren.com.

Stay cool—and, better yet, stay in style—with Simon Spurr’s updated version of the classic khaki summer suit. $2,495. Simon Spurr: spurr.tv.

Stylist and style guru Alexa Rodulfo keeps a room smelling fresh with her extensive candle collection, which includes Bois Nu and Bois d’Alexa. $69. Alexa Rodulfo: alexarodulfo.com. 70 QUEST

You’ll be sure to dazzle in R.S. Durant’s multi-colored fancy diamond ball drop earrings, which feature 49 carats of diamonds. $75,000. R.S. Durant: 962 Madison Avenue or 212.288.1318.

Bracelet in 18-kt. rose gold with 176 sapphires in candy colors and 147 brilliant-cut diamonds. $59,575. Wempe: 700 Fifth Avenue, 212.397.9000, or wempe.com.

Sparkle and shine in Chopard’s yellow Subtle and sleek: Louis Vuitton’s Zippy wallet in monogram vernis. $825. Louis Vuitton: 866.VUITTON

diamond earrings from the Red Carpet Collection. Price upon request. Chopard: 800.CHOPARD or chopard.com.

or louisvuitton.com.

Prints are in, and Elie Tahari’s Keaton dress is right on target. $498. Elie Tahari: Elie Tahari Collection boutiques or 212.334.4441.

Cindy Chao’s creations are more than jewelry— they are pieces of art, like this Tipsy brooch with heart-shaped ssapphire center. Cindy Chao “The Art

g r ac e w h i t n e y ( R . S . d u r a n t )

Jewel,” at Bergdorf Goodman: 888.774.2424.

Not just for the art-minded: J.Crew’s Gallerista party dress was designed by a print-house artist in Como. $325. J.Crew: 800.562.0258.

culinary culture by daniel cappello it used to be that a date for the opera, ballet, or symphony meant an evening of world-class culture, but not necessarily of world-class cuisine. The neighborhood surrounding Lincoln Center offered a prime restaurant here or there—usually at a steep price, at that—but the neighborhood was hardly a culinary destination. Culture, not cookshops, was always its forte.

Recently, that has begun to change. The rising of the Time Warner Center and the revitalization of that beginning stretch of the Upper West Side brought with it an influx of great dining, including star chefs Thomas Keller and Daniel Boulud. Still, for their proximity to Lincoln Center, there was always that moment of rushing to get the check in order to make curtain call. Enter restaurateur Nick Valenti and chef Jonathan Benno (of The French Laundry and Per Se fame) and their Lincoln Ristorante, a satisfying homage to Italian cuisine. Like the stunning Diller, Scofidio + Renfro-designed glass pavilion that houses it, Lincoln’s food is clean and modern. Open glass everywhere, an open kitchen, and a grass-lawn roof offer perfect views of Lincoln Center’s reflecting pool and Henry Moore sculpture. The beauty of its location alone makes it a worthy destination: if you have tickets, you’re literally steps from the show; if you don’t, you find yourself center stage in the great performance of Lincoln Center bustle that never gets old.

I wa n b a a n ( r e s tau r a n t ) / e va n s u n g ( f o o d )

canteens

Resident Lincoln Center prima ballerina

Good food is a requisite for any destination, and there’s plenty to go around at Lincoln, from flavorful antipasti fish picks (i.e., bigeye tuna with olives, radish, cucumber, fennel, and chilies) to a plethora of primi, including tortelloni with nettles, mostarda, walnuts, and ricotta salata. You can almost pick a main dish at random and be sure you’ve chosen a winner, though the veal chop—with sunchokes, artichokes, and gremolata—is a clear winner. A chef’s menu, with the option for wine pairings, is a smart way to go, especially for trying a diverse variety of Italian wines. Wine director Aaron von Rock has focused his attention on small producers, with happy results. A Negroni specialty menu is a cute gesture, but the servers, wisely, don’t force it. The budino and zeppole are hard to resist for dessert, and modern twists on classics like tiramisu and zuccotto render them in a whole new presentation. If you don’t feel like leaving, come back post-performance for a night-cap glass of the Passito di Pantelleria. Encore, anyone? u Top: A sweeping view of the open kitchen, bar, and dining room. Opposite page: A seamless architectural integration with Lincoln Center; pastry chef Richard Capizzi’s take on the dessert zuccotto. This page: Whom you might spot, and what they might be eating.

Opera singer in training (diva in the making)

Upper East Side patron of the arts Upper West Side intellectual playing it safe

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J E W E L RY

RALPH LAUREN’S LATEST in LUXURY By daniel cappello

last fall, when Ralph Lauren opened the doors to its latest retail environment— the beautiful Beaux-Arts women’s flagship at 888 Madison Avenue in New York—not only did it introduce a change to the landscape of Madison Avenue (the imposing limestone façade brings a certain Parisian grandeur to the otherwise quintessential New York shopping mile), but also to the brand itself. Along with familiar mainstays of the Ralph Lauren brand, like its three clothing labels, footwear, and a home collection, the opening of 888 Madison marked the premiere of a fine jewelry line, with a dedicated Watch & Jewelry Salon—the first ever for the brand. Today, Ralph Lauren Fine Jewelry remains exclusively available at the 888 Madison Avenue women’s flagship. (Another women’s luxury store is slated to open this year in Hong Kong at the Hong Kong Peninsula, and will house Asia’s first dedicated Ralph Lauren Watch & Jewelry Salon.) As with Ralph Lauren Timepieces, which debuted several years ago, Ralph Lauren Fine Jewelry is made in conjunction with Richemont, the Swiss 7040 Q QU UEESSTT

luxury-goods company with an expertise in watches and jewelry. The partnership between Ralph Lauren and Richemont is a natural one, and a happy one, at that. What Richemont brings in expertise and credibility, Ralph Lauren offers in iconic design and comprehensive retail expertise. Like a sumptuously lined jewelry box itself, the dark, velvety walls and glass display cases of the Watch & Jewelry Salon are staged in a style that is consistent with the Ralph Lauren lifestyle (picture diamond necklaces dripping from riding hats and crops). The harmonious environment, set unto itself in a stretch of the first floor, beckons as much as the jewelry pieces themselves. The Ralph Lauren Fine Jewelry collections are marked by a high level of craftsmanship that reinforces Ralph Lauren’s commitment to true luxury. Each piece is hand-crafted using precious stones, noble materials, and the finest finishing techniques. Ralph Lauren Fine Jewelry is actually a set of six distinct collections. The Equestrian Collection, naturally, captures the charm of Ralph Lauren’s

co u rte s y o f r a lp h l au r e n

N a me

Above, from left: The crystal chandeliers and dark velvety walls of the Watch & Jewelry Salon at the Ralph Lauren women’s flagship at 888 Madison Avenue; the Beaux-Arts limestone façade and decorative ironwork of the entrance to 888 Madison. Jewelry pieces, from left: the Signature Diamonds large tennis necklace with the Equestrian Double Stirrup pendant in white gold with full pavé diamonds; the Monogram necklace with 235 Akoya pearls and a rose-gold and diamond monogram clasp; the Diamond Link necklace in white gold, fully pavéd with 2,646 diamonds.

iconic equestrian heritage, and features classic horse and stirrup motifs stylized in shimmering diamonds. The Monogram Collection is the epitome of elegance, offering lustrous Akoya pearls in multiple strands and the Ralph Lauren monogram. In the Diamond Link Collection, Ralph Lauren’s passion for links and chains is reinterpreted with incredibly supple and fluid pavé diamond chains. Meanwhile, the Chunky Chains Collection exerts an urban influence and modern chic with excitingly juxtaposed links that combine to form singular chain pieces. The New Romantic Collection is infused with an eclectic and bohemian spirit, which is inspired by “femininity and intrigue,” as Ralph Lauren puts it. And, finally, graceful antiquecut diamonds and

square-shaped settings define the Signature Diamonds Collection + The Classic Collection. Here, the classic woman will find time-honored tennis bracelets as well as eternity and solitaire pieces that are stacked in multiples. No matter what her style or taste, the discerning woman who appreciates only the best in customer service and design—in any of its stylistic interpretations— will find an exceptional piece of handcrafted jewelry in Ralph Lauren’s latest brand extension. With an obvious focus on intricate details and outstanding finishes, Ralph Lauren Fine Jewelry offers the best of two worlds: the singular, all-American standard of Ralph Lauren at one with the old-world craftsmanship that Richemont is recognized for. u M AY 2 0 1 1 7 5

fa s h i o n

dressing for la dolce vita watch out, oscar! Fashion designer

Paola Quadretti has burst onto the scene with fresh, tailored designs that are causing quite a stir among New York’s ladies of style. The Florentine designer came of age in the 1960s, when Italian fashion was just beginning to hit the world stage. She worked under designer Laura Biagiotti before opening her own store in downtown Florence. Now, after eleven years of successful trunk shows in the U.S., she and her American business partner, RoAnn Costin have set up a showroom on East 61st Street. No one can compete with an Italian sense of color, and 76 QUEST

Paola’s clothes are a testament to that. Her prints are vivid and interesting and she favors bright hues over basic black. Her signature is a sparkly butterfly sewn onto shoes and handbags. And she has one big advantage over her competitors: her made-to-measure clothes cost far less than haute couture. “She is a great artisan,” says Amy Fine Collins. “No woman is a standard size, and women forget about fit. The fabrics and textiles she uses are from the finest Italian mills; they feel wonderful against your skin.” Paola has a very specific idea of the woman she’s dressing. “She’s a great

traveler with an original sense of style who is bored of brands and wants to stay unique. She likes to be feminine and appreciates simplicity,” she says. Her style icons are Maria Agnelli, Grace Kelly, C.Z. Guest, and, perhaps surprisingly, Madonna. Maureen Orth, another friend and fan, says, “I wore a strapless, short, iridescent lime-green dress to the Washington Correspondents’ Dinner and I wouldn’t have worn it if I didn’t feel confident in her clothes.” Her upcoming collections are inspired by La Dolce Vita and the operas of Puccini. We can’t wait to see what’s next. u

j a s o n fa lc h o o k

By daisy prince

This page, clockwise from top left: Italian fashion designer Paola Quadretti; luxurious textiles and remarkable details set Quadrettiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s designs apart; her signature butterfly sewn onto a shoe. Opposite: the designerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new atelier on East 61st Street, where notable New York ladies find unique designs.

legacy of success mother-to-be Ivanka Trump shares the secrets to her success. Q: Why did you go into the jewelry business as your first independent project outside of Trump Organization? A: My mother’s legacy jewelry collection always inspired me, and my love for the classic aesthetic propelled my vision. I realized that the luxury fine-jewelry market was missing a fresh, young design approach. That’s where my line’s vision of “Rock Tradition” plays a vital role—it’s a modern twist on jewelry’s most important classic. I wanted to make women of my time feel comfortable buying fine jewelry and give them the ultimate shopping experience. The Madison Avenue boutique—its service and the quality all speaks to a luxurious yet approachable shopping experience. 78 QUEST

Q: What is the style of the collection, and how does it reflect you? A: Heirloom chic is the creative vision behind my jewelry line. It’s the youthful reinvention of important legacy jewelry. Heirloom chic puts a modern twist on classic jewelry, capturing a sense of fine workmanship, tradition, and offhand elegance. Q: I’ve noticed that there are no colored stones in the collection. Why is that? A: My line is comprised of diamonds, black onyx, white agate, rock crystal, pearls and yellow gold, white gold, and rose gold. A colorless palette is elegant and wearable. It can transcend the season and remain timeless. Q: What are your most cherished jewelry memories? A: The first piece of jewelry that I loved was a diamond necklace my mother gave me from her collection when I turned twentyone. It’s the most inspiring piece I own. Also, a pair of classic pearl studs my grandmother gave me when I was ten has always been my favorite.

i va n k a t ru m p

Jeweler, real-estate impresario, and

je w e l r y Q:  How has Ivanka Trump Fine Jewelry grown since you founded the business? A: I launched my jewelry line in 2007 and could not be more thrilled with the success and growth it has experienced over the past four years. We’ve grown from one store on Madison Avenue in to more than sixty worldwide exclusive retail partnerships, including Lane Crawford in Asia and Harvey Nichols in Dubai, in addition to several top partners throughout the Middle East. Q: What’s the secret behind your business success? A: Being honest, well prepared, creative, and practical. Every day is different for me. I generally wake up, exercise, and read through a copious amount of newspapers. I arrive at the office somewhere between 7:30 and 8 a.m.—my brothers and I are always the first

worldwide. In terms of Twitter (I am almost at a million followers!), I tweet multiple times a day. Sometimes it’s more personal, like announcing my pregnancy or talking about new pieces in my jewelry collection or showing the soon-to-be-completed Trump Hotel in Toronto and asking for feedback. This is all a part of what I do to connect with consumers, which is very helpful, so it really is an amazing form of direct marketing. You have the ability to interact with your potential customer, and also get to know those people who may not be your customers yet, but are aspirational and are hoping to be. Q: Natalie Portman and Emmy Rossum have recently been spotted in your jewelry. Do they emulate the type of woman you design for? A: Yes, they do! They both

Above, from left: rock crystal and diamond bubble ring; rose gold and diamond cocktail ring; signature pavé diamond drop earrings. Opposite: Ivanka Trump; oxidized black diamond briolette tassel necklace.

ones in. My days are often filled with meetings—everything from hotel design to building management to jewelry initiatives to new deal development to marketing strategy and, often, filming for “The Apprentice.” I try to stick to a very strict schedule and I am never late—this is something I learned from my father. I also try to schedule some time between those meetings to return phone calls and emails, as I think it’s very important to respond to direct correspondence in a timely manner. Q: How is it working with your father just down the hall? A: I love working with my father! I’ve learned a great deal from him over the years. He taught me that hard work never goes out of style and to always be prepared for interviews, meetings, discussions, everything. Work hard. Create a strong and consistent identity—your name and reputation are your best assets. I couldn’t ask for a better mentor. Q: Are you active in the world of social media? A: Both Facebook and Twitter are extremely effective tools in reaching out and connecting to a large amount of people

are extremely talented, strong women who have phenomenal senses of styles. Emmy has dazzled in my Rose Gold & Rock Crystal collection while Natalie has been seen wearing my Octagonal and Signature cocktail rings. Q: What should be every woman’s must-have piece of jewelry?  A: A fabulous pair of earrings that can go from the office to a night out are an absolute necessity! My favorites are the medium signature oval diamond earrings from my collection—they really make a statement. Q: How will you balance motherhood with your career? A: It’s hard to say, until you get to know your baby’s personality and needs. I want to continue to do as much as I can, while trying to be flexible and accommodating. Q: As an expecting mother, what piece from your collection would you recommend our readers buy to celebrate the day? A: The Mother of Pearl Rose Gold and Diamond cocktail ring, of course! It is a stunning piece that is perfect for the day. u M AY 2 0 1 1 7 9

Books

This page, from left: Dr. Peggy Drexler; Drexler’s new book, Our Fathers, Ourselves. Opposite: Peggy Drexler’s daughter and husband, Katherine and Mickey Drexler, to whom she dedicated her new book.

A Conversation with

Dr. Peggy Drexler Q: You mention early in the introduction that your father died when you were three—before you could remember him. What led you to write about the father-daughter relationship? A: There is certainly a connection between losing my father at such a young age and my book. I’ve always had an interest in families. You don’t have to root around too deeply in my psychological makeup to connect the dots between not having what I considered to be a “normal” family and trying to understand what families are and how they work. It played a part in getting my Ph.D. in psychology, my work in gender studies, and my first book, Raising Boys Without Men. That book was a validation of sorts. I found very happy, very suc8 0 Q U ES T

cessful families being headed by one woman, or two women. I saw the outstanding boys they were raising. I saw successful, normal families that defied the old, rigid definitions. In this book, I wanted to flip the perspective—instead of mothers raising sons, I wanted to explore fathers raising daughters. It’s an age-old relationship that has been subjected to uncharted forces. No matter where you look—education, sports, jobs—women are out in the world in numbers equal to men. They are competing and winning in all walks of life. All of that is very different from the times when the father’s main job was to protect his daughter, and prepare her for the hand-off to another man. At the same time, because of the economy and

distance and indifference. Girls see themselves through the eyes of their fathers and what they see is a tremendous factor in self-worth. Q: Who stood out most in your case studies? A: First of all, every woman had “daddy’s girl” issues. No matter how successful or how content they feel in their marriages and families, women—despite everything they have achieved—still have not liberated themselves from the need for daddy’s approval. Regardless of whether they had a great dad, no dad, or a bad dad, virtually all longed for their father’s support and appreciation. Even when a father was badly flawed, I still found a reservoir of hope and belief that the relationship could be repaired. I was also surprised to find that, even in a great marriage with a loving and stable husband, a woman’s relationship with her own father can cloud how she views the relationship between her daughter and her husband.

p e g gy d r e x le r

because of the explosion of female choice and opportunity, the father is no longer the unquestioned lawgiver in the household. We think we know all there is to know about the fatherdaughter bond but, in fact, it is growing and changing. The worlds of fathers and daughters are more alike than at any time in history. The hope and attention that once went mainly to sons, now goes to both genders. I thought it was time to revisit the relationship, and look at it in a new context. Q: What do you think binds fathers and daughters in their unique relationship? A: The research is clear and consistent that fathers are the first way in which daughters learn about men—good men, loving men, indifferent men, bad men, absent men. The relationship with her father is a living classroom. It’s either a great help in forming healthy relationships with men, or it can be a great hindrance. All fathers need to understand how powerful they are in shaping their daughter’s confidence and expectations with men. It’s not a deal-breaker when he’s absent, but a healthy fatherdaughter relationship is a running start to healthy self-esteem. I met women with distant or absent fathers, for example, who told me they had trouble flirting with men, or even with normal banter at work. They simply didn’t have the practice growing up. They didn’t have that first man in their life. Some women were treated with respect, even gallantry, by their fathers, and they demanded nothing less from the other men in their lives. Conversely, some were treated with insensitivity, or even emotional cruelty. And their attitude is: “Been there. Won’t do it again.” Sadly, there were those who followed the classic assumption that women will seek to repeat what they experienced growing up. The most appropriate bond is one woven out of unquestioned love, consistency, high expectations, and a lot of hands-on participation. Even though it’s far short of the tragedy of abuse, there is also real damage done by emotional

Q: What do you hope a reader will take away from the book? A: I hope that they feel this is a book about them—real women, real lives, real issues. If they can connect with the stories of the women in my book, then they may be able to better connect with the relationship they have with their own fathers. By doing that, I hope they come to realize that a great father-daughter relationship is not automatic. Like any relationship, it sometimes takes work, patience, and perspective—even forgiveness. Q: This book is not just for fathers, but mothers, too. What is the most important lesson you would offer to them? A: Don’t feel left out. Because the world of fathers and daughters is moving closer together, it in no way means that the world of mothers and daughters is moving farther apart. It’s just that some of the old and sometimes hurtful lines of gender demarcation have fallen. It’s not always easy. I remember a few months when my husband was between companies. He started to do what I considered “my job” with our daughter—like rides to school, and shopping. I couldn’t help feeling a little resentful. He was on my turf, and he was good at it. But I think we all have to encourage that kind of closeness; not be threatened by it. It’s a partnership, and one of the partners has the chance to be more to a daughter than fathers might have been in the past. Q: You dedicated your book to your husband, for helping your daughter become the woman she is. How did their relationship serve as inspiration for you? A: He’s a great father, and that is something to celebrate and treasure. In a sense, I was dedicating the book to all the great fathers. I can see him in her in so many ways. I can connect the time he has spent with her with the woman she is. But there is a twist in my case. Having lost my father so young, I spent a lot of time wishing and wondering—what would it be like to have a father always there, always in my corner? What’s it like to have that unconditional love? I get to experience that every day. u M AY

2011 81

J e w e l ry

when one thinks of Tiffany & Co., the mind’s eye immediately conjures up Audrey Hepburn standing on Fifth Avenue, coffee cup in hand, and Holly Golightly’s description of the store: “The quietness and the proud look of it; nothing very bad could happen to you there.” No more accurate description of the landmark jewelry store has ever been written—which is perhaps the reason why the Worth Avenue store seems so natural to the landscape of Palm Beach. “The store opened in November of 1991,” says Jeff Bateman, vice-president of the southeast region, “but people think it has been here much longer. It feels as if it has always been here.” Of the 85 Tiffany stores in America, those in Palm Beach and Bal Harbor opened at about the same time, marking the beginning of Tiffany & Co. in southern Florida. Worth Avenue has changed a lot over the last twenty years, with an influx of larger, more corporate brands coming. “I think it has worked really well for the avenue to have a mix of mom-and-pop shops with the larger luxury retailers. Everyone is really happy.” 8 2 Q UEST

And, of all the resort communities in America, Palm Beach still might be the place where people like to get dressed up the most. “People still wear their fine jewelry out and stroll the avenues in the evenings. They feel comfortable here and they have a feeling of safety that isn’t like other places. People here like to wear their important pieces, and they do.” Like so much of Palm Beach, Tiffany struggled after the post-Madoff moment when people weren’t shopping. “It was pretty staggering for all the obvious reasons. It was a tough time for the island in general,” Bateman says. But with Jeff Sabean at the helm of the Palm Beach store for the last two years, Bateman has nothing but good news. “We’ve had a wonderful season. We’re pleased with the comeback and how things are going. When the avenue was remodeled this year it was a re-opening of Worth Avenue as a dynamic shopping area. The avenue looks beautiful and people have been coming out.” More than anything, Bateman says, “people still like luxury and they still have important occasions in life.” Tiffany will be there to help them celebrate them all. u

t i f fa ny

breakfast... on worth avenue

This page: Jewelry designed for Tiffany & Co., including pieces by Jean Schlumberger and Paloma Picasso, from various collections shows the depth and variety that Tiffany has to offer its customers. Opposite page: The Tiffany store on Worth Avenue in Palm Beach; Jeff Bateman, vice-president, southeast region, Tiffany.

marriages by GEORGINA SCHAEFFER

Lydia Wickliffe Fenet & Christopher Barrett Delaney February 19, 2011 New Orleans, Louisiana

The couple was married at the Christ Church Cathedral, with a wedding reception for 220 people directly following at the Nottoway Plantation.

e l i z a b e t h d o n d i s p h oto g r a p h y

The bride wore a dress by Carolina Herrera and carried a bouquet of phalaenopsis orchids, gardenias, and cymbidium orchids.

The bride’s father, Robert Wickliffe Fenet, walked his daughter down the aisle. She wore a diamond bracelet made from her grandmother’s diamond pin, who was also married at Christ Church Cathedral.

84 QUEST

brian marcus (fred marcus)

The couple’s first dance was to “I’m a Believer” by The Monkees. After the festivities, they went immediately to New Zealand and Bora Bora on their honeymoon.

WEDDINGS

marriages Sarah Cappello & Joseph DiSalvatore, Jr. November 27, 2010 Upper Saddle River, New Jersey

Bridesmaids Aniela Schwab, Melissa Szabo, Danielle Garretson, Adrienne Schaefer, Kim Fahey, and Deanna DiSalvatore held hot pink roses.

s cot t p h oto g r a p h y. n e t

Right: The bride, with her parents, Joseph and Lucy Cappello, carried white roses, calla lilies, and stephanotises. Her dress was custom-made by Island Bridals, near her family’s beach home.

The bride and groom shared their first dance to “Come Rain or Come Shine.” Later, the mother of the groom and father of the bride danced it up to faster beats.

Following the ceremony at Church of the Presentation, two hundred guests celebrated at Seasons, in Washington Township. Below: The bride’s brother, Daniel, toasted the couple.

Sarah kept her grandmother Angeline Cappello’s memory close at heart by carrying her lace handkerchief.

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marriages Frances Leidy & Rory Mackay November 6, 2010 Palm Beach, Florida

Sixteen guests witnessed the couple’s marriage at an intimate family ceremony and reception at the bride’s grandmother’s home on Island Road in Palm Beach.

Only family members attended the wedding, but Mrs. Charles Holt held a cocktail party at her home in Palm Beach for friends of the couple on a spring weekend.

86 QUEST

After the couple was married on the back lawn, the wedding party retired to the house to celebrate with an afternoon tea party with a cake from a local private club.

The couple is also planning a wedding reception in the groom’s native London and a safari honeymoon this summer.

j u l i anm ati lle u r arl (etxhpi s r epa s sgieo)n/s j a s o n w y n n ( o p p o s i te , c e n t e r )

The bride wore a dress by J. Crew and her grandmother’s earrings. She carried a bouquet of pink sweetpeas and wore a matching pink pashmina. The groom’s suit was made in the Bahamas.

M a r r i a g es

Engagements

Phaedra Chrousos and Derek Luyten

Gigi Stone and Ian Woods

Aileen Lopez and Ian Gumprecht

Phaedra Chrousos and Derek Luyten became engaged on December 30th. The couple is planning a wedding in Greece in May, 2012, on the island of Spetses. A long weekend is being planned for family and friends on the Mediterranean Sea. The bride-to-be’s business partner had been trying to set her up with Derek for a number of months without success. The couple finally met at a mutual friend’s wedding in February of 2009. Derek was living in Iraq, working for the International Republican Institute at the time, so the two began emailing long letters back and forth over the next three months. That following May, Derek returned to New York for four days and the couple began building their relationship. Derek went back to Iraq, and then to Morocco, before moving back home in December. Derek proposed at the Bee & Thistle Inn in Old Lyme, Connecticut. He asked the inn’s artistic owner to make a special gingerbread house on which he attached the ring—a symbol of their new life together.

Gigi Stone and Ian Woods will be married in Rye, New York, on July 16th. The wedding and reception will take place at a historic estate on the water, near Larchmont, New York, where the groom grew up. Despite both attending Columbia University for graduate school, Gigi and Ian knew each other only casually through mutual friends. It was a twist of electronic fate that brought the couple together. The bride-to-be was recently single and decided to throw a last-minute party for her single girlfriends. Clicking through her Facebook friends, she added a few of her handsome male acquaintances to the list, one of which was Ian. The couple got to know each other that evening, and soon began dating, now more than a year ago. Ian took Gigi to the Catskills for a weekend and while they were there, took her out on a rowboat. Despite the freezing weather and manipulation of oars, Ian got down on one knee and proposed on the center of the lake. Gigi made him hold onto the ring until they got to shore, just to make sure it didn’t go overboard.

Aileen Lopez and Ian Gumprecht will be married on August 20th at St. Mary’s Church in Roslyn Harbor, New York, with a reception at Seawanhaka Corinthian Yacht Club in Oyster Bay. The two first met when Ian was Aileen’s sailing instructor at Sea Cliff Yacht Club, though it would be another ten years before a romance set in. Aileen went to the 2006 U.S. Open tennis tournament with a feeling that she might meet someone. As she and a friend made their way to their seats, she saw a guy smiling at her. By the time she sat down, he was making his way over to her, and once he said her name she instantly recognized him as her instructor from a decade before. The two have been together since. Last summer, after sailing together in Maine for two weeks aboard Ian’s Sea Sprite 34, the couple sailed to Nantucket where, unbeknownst to Aileen, Ian had organized a private lobster dinner for two on the beach at the Summer House. After taking a knee and asking Aileen to marry him, they were cheered on by a group further down the beach at a bonfire. u

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Money Matters Peter E. Tony Guernsey, Jr. Chief Client Officer, Wilmington Trust FSB

TURN IT OFF: HOW MUCH INFORMATION IS TOO MUCH Before the P.C., BlackBerries, Bloomberg, CNBC, and Squawk box, many clients would call their wealth advisors to book a trade, and then query why there was a price differential between what their newspaper reported as price and the actual trade. Because “back then,” you couldn’t buy a stock or bonds directly from any media source. My, how life has changed! However, even with the advent of new technology, there are still disclosure warnings on wealth advisors’ answering messages to not leave an order on voice mail. And online there is always insurance language stating that prices are not in real time and may lag twenty minutes from the actual market. So today’s question is: do the various forms of current business media communication affect how an individual invests? After September 11, a client of ours moved to London in the hopes of protecting his family from terrorism. Then came the bombing on the underground in the U.K. In 2008, as we all watched the financial crisis evolve, this client called our company daily, panicking, saying that he wanted to go to cash and bury his life savings in his garden outside of London. The Armageddon was about to occur, and Chicken Little predicted that 88 QUEST

the sky would fall down. One afternoon, the client called saying, “I watch my TV, my computer, my BlackBerry, my brokerage website, billboards on the street…I can’t take it anymore. Liquidate my portfolio.” That client exited the market at 6,400 on the Dow. Two and a half years later, the Dow is at 12,365. He called

What would Edison think of our new inventions? Thomas Edison and Charles Steinmetz in 1922.

back recently and mentioned he believed he had timed the market wrong. A number of investors categorize themselves as being aggressive, which is qualified by the market as having 90/10 in an equity/ bond, cash allocation. To confirm that risk comfort with our clients, we point out that such a portfolio in the past could have been down 38% in one month. Could you live with that? No. How about moving down the spectrum to 70/30? Can you tolerate your portfolio declining 28% in a month? No, again. The majority of investors who categorize themselves as aggressive see this type of volatility and dramatically reduce their risk profile. As a result, the bulk of investors set in at 60% in equities and hedge funds and 40% in cash and fixed income. The most difficult part of investing is that you have to be right twice: once when you go in and buy on an opportunity, and again when you predict correctly when the investment has hit your target price to sell. But very few investors can do both correctly. The most important advice we can give our clients at Wilmington Trust is to determine your risk parameters, set your long-term asset allocation, and stay with it. And when you wake up in the morning and see that morning news show reporting on the predicted global volatility of the day, sit back and comfort yourself, knowing that no, this time still isn’t different, and that over time, a well thought out long-term asset allocation strategy will always better the latest trend. To quote Gertrude Stein, “Everybody gets so much information all day long that they lose their common sense.” So turn off those BlackBerries and TVs and PCs! For more information, call 212.415.0510 or email tguernsey@wilmingtontrust.com.

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The numbers are staggering. The

human toll is devastating. And, the catastrophe isn’t over. As of this writing, the estimated cost of the March 11th earthquake and resulting tsunami is more than $300 billion. And, the ultimate cost could be considerably higher after potential compensation claims against Tokyo Electric Power (TEPCO), which may ultimately have to be nationalized. By comparison, the Kobe quake in 1995 cost about $100 billion and Hurricane Katrina in 2005 caused about $81 billion in damages. Opinions vary as to the direct effect on the Japanese economy, but consensus is for one to two quarters of negative GDP, but a full year 2011 that could still be positive. And, eventually, the rebuilding efforts will provide a natural boost to their economy. However, with the TEPCO-operated nuclear power plant issues still far from being resolved, the downside risk is difficult to quantify and potentially enormous. Moreover, this comes at a time when the Japanese government is already burdened with fiscal issues. Public debt is already twice that of GDP and the budget deficit is nearly 7% of GDP. So, what does it mean for the rest of the world when the third biggest economy faces such challenges? When we think of Japan we probably think of two industries—autos and technology. While Japan isn’t the contributor to the technology sector it once was, we have already begun to feel the impact of its absence. Japan is a major producer of silicon wafers, supplying 60% of the global supply used to make semiconductors. Supply disruptions have already caused prices to increase substantially. Domestic semiconductor equipment companies should fill the void. In addition, numerous automakers have already idled plants or cut production because of a shortage of parts coming from Japan. Nissan Motor Co. recently said it would soon resume operations at all but one of its plants but expects the impact of the earthquake will result in a reduction of output of 55,000 vehicles. Industry-wide auto production loss is expected to be at

A street in Tokyo. While the near-term impact of recent events is devastating, the long-term outlook is positive for Japan.

Gregory c. leo

Senior Vice President Chief Investment Officer IDB Bank, U.S. Private Banking

the effects of the crisis in japan on private banking least 400,000 vehicles. But Japanese output isn’t limited to these two areas alone. Over the last decade they have grown their production of tools and machinery more than ten-fold. In all of these industries, domestic producers should benefit as imports are limited. From an investment perspective, the impact of this catastrophe on a well diversified portfolio should have been minimal. While Japan may be the world’s third largest economy, its stock market represents less than 10% of the total world equity markets and most money managers have had even less exposure. Furthermore, most well constructed portfolios should have had some exposure to fixed income

securities, which would have further lessened the impact. So while the Japanese equity market has declined more than 10% since the earthquake, the U.S. equity markets have risen, leaving the well diversified investor with a positive return. The Chinese writing shown above, which means crisis, is actually two symbols that separately mean danger and opportunity. So, while the near-term impact on the people of Japan and their economy will be devastating, we believe the longer term outlook is positive for the people of Japan and the rest of the world. For more information, call 212.555.8086 or visit idbank.com.

v e s t m e n t s . . . F i n a n c e . . . R e t ir e m e n t . . . C u rr e n t E v e n t s . . . i n s u r a n c e . . . s t o c k s . . . I n v e s t m e n t s . . . F i n a n c e . . . R e t

Money Matters A broker’s failure to stay current can have far-reaching ramifications, including Founder and President, gaps in coverage, inconsistencies across Mark Edward Partners insurance programs, and poorly designed structures that lead to increased costs. Thankfully, there are insurance brokers actively confronting this service void. These exceptional brokers view their role as vital to client wealth preservation strategies, and their actions can have a dramatic impact on the cost and efficacy of clients’ total risk management programs. In my view, there are several things that separate these Over the course of my thirty years individuals to significant inconvenience, brokers from the pack. Most significantly, they take an interest in learning as an insurance executive, I have been and needlessly exposes them to risk. witness to many changes in the insurQuality service in insurance means the details of their clients’ operations ance industry. Some of the most welcome more than timely processing of policy and lifestyles to uniquely address each changes include the dramatic expansion renewal information. In the world of client’s risk tolerance. Their firm’s top of available capacity, the increased flexi- risk management, even seemingly minor managers are constantly available to clibility of insurance companies to respond changes to a person’s lifestyle or a compa- ents to answer questions, explore alterto emerging risks, and resilience of the ny’s operating structure can dramatically natives, and resolve issues. They work industry as a whole following the global alter its risk profile. Therefore, having an with their insurance underwriting partfinancial crisis of recent years. insurance broker who is actively engaged ners to develop new products where no Unfortunately, not all of the indus- unt servicing throughout the year is vital. suitable products currently exist. When losses do occur, they become try’s changes have been so client advocates, employpositive. To me, the most ing claims and legal experts disturbing trend has been Good insurance advisors ensure that coverage is not out of date. who help navigate complex, the widespread decline in sensitive claims scenarios. the level of service proFinally, they maintain strong vided to the people and relationships with key insurcompanies who depend ance company personnel, as on insurance to protect exceptional results are often them against unexpected, achieved not only through potentially catastrophic, industry knowledge, but also losses. Contributing to this personal relationships. decline is the fact that risk Despite the current challengmanagement has become es and trends in the financial progressively more comservices and insurance indusplex due to factors such as tries and the greater economy, the globalization of busioutstanding service can still be nesses, the rise of techfound among those risk and nology, and the increasing insurance professionals who frequency and severity of truly care about their clients. If natural disasters. Some you feel you are not receiving service declines are a result the level of service you deserve, of the rise of large, public an alternative in insurance broinsurance brokerage firms kers should be explored. that emphasize corporate profits over service. Regardless of the reasons, For more information, call this service void subjects 212.355.5005 or visit too many companies and markedwardpartners.com.

Mark E. Freitas

demanding superior service: a wealth preservation strategy

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Estate planning is about much more than preparing your money for the kids; it’s also about preparing the kids for the money. Somewhere between 75 and 80 percent of self-made wealth is gone in two or three generations. Often it’s because parents didn’t discuss their investments and estate plans with their children, and, after they’re gone, the children didn’t work together to manage the wealth and charitable giving. Estate planning can be a touchy subject and many parents delay the important life-after-death talk. Some wait until they’re at death’s door to broach the subject. Others never have the talk at all and leave it to the family lawyer to tell the children about the size and structure of their portfolio. “My parents never told me we were wealthy because they didn’t want me to feel entitled,” an heiress once told her wealth manager. She described how her unexpected inheritance of a huge fortune at age forty threw her into a tailspin. Her new financial status poisoned some of her relationships and, as she grew selfconscious about her wealth, she began to question the motives of others. This scenario, more common than you’d think, underscores how communicating with heirs is just as important as structuring the right trusts or drafting the will. And it also means that estate planning is a long-term process that starts when children are younger. This is particularly true for first-generation wealth holders who are experienced at making money, not managing it. Many of these successful “Type A” go-getters tend to have a top-down attitude about managing their wealth and don’t think about involving their family in key decisions. Just as well-run companies develop succession plans, families need to include a similar component in their estate planning with a program for educating the children about the responsibility of money and the issues they’ll be handling one day. Some questions include: Who will make investment decisions and how? Will we rely on a manager or managers? How will we manage cash flow? What kind of risk

Talking to your children about money is an important part of estate planning.

Doris

President, U.S. Markets—Tri-State BNY Mellon Wealth Management

estate planning: preparing your children to inherit money comes with the different investments we make? And, finally, what kind of charitable organizations will we support and at what level? Parents need to lead by example, and as their children mature, they should be allowed to participate in investment and philanthropic decisions. It’s especially important to allow siblings to work together in solving a problem. After all, someday they will have to make decisions without their parents. Parents can foster sibling harmony in a variety of ways. A wealth-management colleague of mine specializes in helping the wealthy deal with this aspect of estate planning and came up with a clever teambuilding effort for his own children. He

assigned them (ages 7 to 13) a sum of money to invest and manage over a year. Whatever profit they realized from their portfolio would pay for a family trip. Some years, when the returns were small, all they could afford was an overnight camping trip. In good years, their returns paid for vacations abroad. In fostering strong interdependence among the children, parents are leaving them with the most important gift of all: the insight that the human, intellectual, and social capital they have as a family is their real wealth. u For more information, call 212.922.4506 or visit bnymellon.com/wealthmanagement. M AY 2 0 1 1 9 1

rea l E state

industry insiders

Leila Yusef, Jane Gardner, Elizabeth Ann Kivlan, Alexis Van Der Mije, Simrall Meem, Cornelia Van Amburg, Amanda Cannon, and Ramses Serrano.

Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re developing an exciting new face for Stribling. Can you talk a little bit about your new agents and what you hope they will bring to the company? It is essential that we remain dedicated to our core values of integrity, service, knowledge, and discretion. That being said, our new team members are focusing on expanded locations and a greater diversity of properties. This reflects the expanded parameters of buyers and tenants in New York City. How are the downtown Manhattan and Brooklyn markets faring these days? Brooklyn and downtown have become

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distinct choices on the part of buyers. They are no longer alternative neighborhoods, but destinations in themselves. What neighborhoods are performing best right now in Brooklyn and downtown? In Brooklyn, I would say Brooklyn Heights, Park Slope, and Cobble Hill. Also, Williamsburg has taken the shortest amount of time to achieve its iconic status. Tribeca is back, and prime West and Central Village are mainstays. Are there any specific properties you are excited about? I am quite taken with the penthouse at the Devonshire House, located at 28 East 10th Street. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a conversion of an

Emory Roth Building and has exceptional finishes by Victoria Hagan. And 60 Orchard Street is an amazing project in a highly sought-after neighborhood. In Brooklyn, 114 Westminster, a freestanding house in Prospect Park South

The colonial revival-style home at 114 Westminster Road in Prospect Park South, Brooklyn.

J u l i a G i ll a r d ( te a m ) / s t r i b l i n g ( p ro p e rt i e s )

This january Stribling and Associates named Elizabeth Ann Kivlan, daughter of founder Elizabeth Stribling, director of marketing and business development. Quest sat down with the dynamic woman to talk about the new face of Stribling, the market, and her talented mother.

is a grand colonial revival with a two-car garage that was built in 1909. It is something that you wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t expect to find in the middle of New York City. What advice do you have for young buyers right now? Make sure that you work with a good broker. If you are financing, be prepared in advance by either speaking with a good mortgage broker or bank. Education and preparation is key. With that in mind, be prepared to act quickly and astutely when you find the right property. What do you expect to see in the market over the next year? I expect an increased level of absorption and not a lot of new product in the development community. The prices will remain stable throughout the year as a result of global and political uncertainty.

are always two sides to every negotiationâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and each has validity. One must never take sides in brokering a deal, but facilitate a truly fair market transaction.

What advantages do you have being the daughter of the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s founder? I realized from an early age that there

How do you and your mother continue to inspire each other? We bring different views because of

The living and dining room at 60 Orchard Street.

our generational difference. She brings a more conservative assessment based on decades of experience; I present a fresh take. The resulting dialogue is a lot of fun. u For more information, call 646.613.2650 or visit stribling.com.

The penthouse at the Devonshire House, a converted Emory Roth building with finishes by Victoria Hagan at 28 East 10th Street.

M AY 2 0 1 1 9 3

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Don’t miss… the Quest 400 Issue

coming in august Call Kathy Sheridan at 646.840.3404 x100

Western Sunset Views -

Fabulous hilltop setting with light and views! Stunning Country Colonial with spacious, sunny rooms. Center Entrance Hall. Spacious Living Room with Fireplace. Study. Formal Dining Room. Family Room with Fireplace. Gourmet Kitchen. Five Bedrooms. Four landscaped acres. Incredible flowering gardens. Fabulous rear terrace with outdoor kitchen and oversize, gunite spa with waterfall. Generator. $1,375,000

Sun-Splashed Stucco -

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Living The Suite Life By daniel cappello and elizabeth meigher Photographed by julie skarratt

Getting ready for a night out couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be more fun. When Kelly Rutherford, Coralie Charriol Paul, and Melanie Fascitelli check in to The Royal Plaza Suite at The Plaza Hotel with jewels by Tiffany & Co., Asprey, Harry Winston, and Charriol, the result is one glamorous, romping good time. 98 QUEST

Kelly, in a black and white Valentino long-sleeve gown with leather point dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;esprit and flower embroidery, wears all Harry Winston jewelry, including the Lariat necklace on top of the Diamond Bib necklace, Nightlife earrings, Diamond Carpet bracelet, and PS Cluster ring.

It’s all fun and games for Coralie and Kelly, both in hand-pleated J. Mendel gowns. Kelly wears Asprey’s Feather earrings, white diamond Feather double pendant, and diamond Calla Lily double ring. Coralie wears Charriol’s bronze cable and rose gold necklaces and bangle.

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Coralie, in a pink hyacinth J. Mendel dress, puts on her Jimmy Choo Zafira sandals. All jewelry by Charriol: white gold and diamond earrings, necklace, and rings, and a selection of Celtic Noir and white gold and diamond bangles.

This page: Melanie, in a lavender gown by Douglas Hannant and Jimmy Chooâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Vamp sandals in glitter champagne, wears Aspreyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s multi-color Daisy earrings and necklace, a Cartier Love bracelet, and Tiffany & Co.â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oval pink tourmaline ring with diamond triple shank. Melanie, the president and creative director of Clos-ette (clos-ettetoo.com), a holistic organizational design company, is an expert on closet and dressing room design, and a pro at jewelry display and storage; she creates custom jewelry cases for private and retail clients.

Coralie, in Douglas Hannantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s buff gown, shares a laugh with her daughter, Anais. All jewelry by Charriol: white gold and diamond necklace and hoop earrings, 18-kt. white gold and diamond rings, Celtic cable and steel bangles with amethysts, and 18-kt. white gold bangles with diamonds. M AY 2 0 1 1 1 0 3

Coralie, in a periwinkle Marchesa dress, wears Charriol jewels: white gold and diamond earrings, necklace, bracelets, and ring, and the steel and diamond Megeve watch. Melanie, in an iris J. Mendel gown, wears Tiffany & Co.â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Legacy diamond triple drop earrings, pearshape pink spinel drop necklace, flower morganite and pink tourmaline bracelet, and pink tourmaline ring (her right hand).

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Kelly, in a red Valentino gown with canella lining, wears Harry Winston’s Med Shinde earrings, Sunflower Diamond necklace, and Diamond Carpet bracelet, with Tiffany & Co.’s oval pink tourmaline ring. Her daughter, Helena, in Harry Winston’s Diamond Bib necklace, offers up Harry Winston’s Lattice Diamond bracelet. M AY 2 0 1 1 1 0 5

In the master bathroom, Coralie, in Max Mara’s purple Mida jumper and Manolo Blahnik’s Dona shoe, keeps Anais busy with smartphone games. She’s wearing all Charriol: Celtic men’s watch, white gold and diamond earrings, ring, and bracelets, including one from the Flamme Blanche Collection. 106 QUEST

Melanie tries on Marchesa’s white one-shoulder silk crêpe column gown with flower detail along with Harry Winston’s Lariat necklace, Nightlife earrings, and Diamond Carpet bracelet. All of the women’s hair is by Elad Ben Tov and makeup by Shiko Vun, both for Valery Joseph Salon.

marvels and mystery Design Museum, is a creative and extensive exhibition of jewelry curated by Sarah Coffin, “Set in Style: The Jewelry of Van Cleef & Arpels,” exploring the firm’s historical contributions to jewelry design and its innovations in the field. The exhibition, installed by the Jouin Manku studio, draws inspiration from the museum’s historic 1902 building, the Carnegie Mansion, and plays off of Coffin’s six featured themes: innovation, transformation, nature, exoticism, fashion, and, finally, personalities—all from an American perspective. 108 QUEST

van cleef archives

now on view at the Cooper-Hewitt, National

the wall ace collection (painting)/cooper-hewit t/

By georgina schaeffer

This page: Van Cleef’s book spread showing the Camargo ballerina brooch. Opposite, above: “Mademoiselle de Camargo Dancing,” Nicholas Lancret, 1730. Below: Ballerina (Camarg0) brooch, Paris, 1942.

The show begins in the music room, which focuses on the jewelry company’s design innovations. The famed “Mystery Setting,” (in which the jeweler positions the stones so that one cannot see the claws) is highlighted with an extraordinary “Peony” brooch from 1937, among several other dazzling pieces. Also on view is the earliest known existing Van Cleef & Arpels object, the “Veruna” yacht bell push (1908). Thought to have been commissioned for the yacht’s owner, Eugene Higgins, the piece was once used to call for the butler. Another Van Cleef introduction was the bracelet with a buckle closure, known as the “Ludo,” a nod to the nickname of founder Louis Arpels. Moving into the dining room, the exhibition continues on with an expansive table “set” with jewelry pieces in glass encasements. The theme of

transformation takes center stage here, with pieces that change into other objects. A fine example is a bird brooch where the bird’s wings can become earrings and its tail a brooch. The piece, commissioned to celebrate the owner’s first child, features the 95-ct. yellow diamond “Walska.” Also in the transformation room are “zipjewelry” pieces, a hallmark for Van Cleef & Arpels, in which a necklace can be “zipped” to change lengths or turn into a bracelet. Originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor in 1930s, it would take until 1951 to conquer the technicalities of the design. Continuing toward the garden is a giant glass dome in the conservatory. Inspired by glass domes used to house and protect flowers, here the dome features a collection of butterfly brooches suspended in space.

This page, above: Chinese Magician pocket watch, Paris, 1927. Below: “Veruna” bell push, Paris, 1908. Opposite, clockwise from top: Manchette (cuff ) bracelet/ necklace, 1926 and 1928, formerly owned by Daisy Fellowes; Ludo bracelet, Paris, 1940; a retail card for bracelet design no. 43737; Daisy Fellowes; the retail card

co o p e r h e w i t t / va n c le e f a r c h i v e s

for Manchette (cuff ) bracelet design no. 31254.

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Themes of exoticism and fashion follow in the next rooms. With the excavation of King Tut’s tomb in 1922, Egyptomania was the rage throughout the decade and served as a major point of inspiration for several pieces on view. Indian style, including a necklace commissioned by the Maharani of Baroda, is also present because many maharajas were clients. With lacquer and jade used in cigarette boxes and other objects, China and Japan became an inspiration for Van Cleef & Arpels, as seen in their “Chinese hat” necklace, bracelet, and ring set, as well as the “Chinese magician” pocket watch. From the company’s beginning in the 1900s, fashion also played a pivotol role in design, including its fashion accessories. The “Minaudiere” (a fitted clutch with various compartments for compacts, combs, mirrors, and cigarette cases, and often with a hidden lighter or clock), was a Van Cleef & Arpels invention. 112 QUEST

As the show comes to its finale, the last wall is dedicated to trendsetting American women who were Van Cleef loyalists. On view are the “Manchette” emerald bracelets owned by Daisy Fellowes, the “Jarretiere” bracelet owned by Marlene Dietrich, which she wore in Stage Fright, Elizabeth Taylor’s amethyst, coral, and diamond bracelet and earrings, a bracelet and necklace owned by Eva Perón, and, finally, the engagement jewelry of Princess Grace of Monaco. With more than 350 works on view, supplemented with design drawings, commission books, fabrication cards, and photos from the firm’s archives, this is a show not be missed by anyone who loves jewelry or just masterful design. u This page, clockwise from top left: The Duchess of Windsor, who designed a convertible zip necklace with Monsieur Van Cleef; a zip necklace with extension, Paris, 1952; Grace Kelly, whose engagement jewelry is on view at the exhibition; Walska brooch/pendant, New York, 1971. Opposite, clockwise from top left: Lace bow brooch, Paris, 1945; Colonne Vendôme cigarette lighter design no. 63873 retail card; Colonne Vendôme lighter, Paris, 1951; Egyptian Odalisque evening bag, Paris, 1927.

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co o p e r - h e w i t t / va n c le e f a r c h i v e s

This page: Jewelry designer Blair Husain crafts an 18-kt. gold anniversary date roman numeral cuff, punctuated with diamonds. Opposite: The 18-kt. gold Sagittarius zodiac pendant.

the new gold standard

By daniel cappello photographed by mimi ritzen crawford

for blair husain, jewelry is personal. At least, thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s how it should

be, according to the on-the-rise Manhattan jewelry designer, who has launched an eponymous line that has everyone from Upper East Side investment-banking husbands to Brooklyn graphic-designing wives lining up to meet with her to create personal, one-of-a-kind cuffs, necklaces, and cufflinks for their friends and loved ones. Like many great businesses, this one sprang out of spontaneity. Several years ago, Blair dared to indulge her artistic inclinations and designed a cuff for herself that celebrated the year of her wedding anniversary. She translated the year, 1997, into solid gold roman numerals, and then wrapped them around and into a cuff. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I wanted M AY 2 0 1 1 1 1 5

The jewelry designer leaving her Upper East Side neighborhood for work. Inset: An 18-kt. gold roman numeral birthdate ring with diamonds.

to design a piece that felt personal and significant,” she says. In the middle of designing, it just so happened that one of her very good friends was turning thirty-nine. Blair and some of their friends sat down to ponder a special birthday gift. After all, the birthday girl had incredible style, the kind of woman who seemed to have it all. So, Blair proposed that she design a large charm (this friend prefers substantial pieces) with the roman numeral thrity-nine, XXXIX, inside. Everyone pitched in to cover the costs, and the group was able to present their friend with a unique gift. Soon after, Blair found herself being approached by people who loved the design so much that they wanted something for themselves, from rings and earrings to bangles and cufflinks. And so, with her original roman numeral collection, the Blair Husain jewelry line was born (now online at blairhusain.com). Blair, with her wide and warm blue eyes, striking blond hair, and natural grace, has for years been admired as the all-American girl gone right: a North Carolina native who moved to New York and fit in so naturally in the Upper East Side element that she became an icon of the ideal Manhattan lady. Now, as a wife and mother of three, she is devoted first and foremost to her family, but she’s always found time to explore and dedicate herself to the causes and interests that speak to her, including institutions 1 1 6 Q U E ST

and charities like American Ballet Theatre, the American Museum of Natural History, and the Society of Memorial Sloan-Kettering. And now, with the development of her jewelry line, she is proving herself all over again as a talented and successful designer. Today, Blair’s jewelry—crafted by hand in New York City using solid 18-kt. gold and the occasional diamond—has expanded to offer more design options, but Blair remains committed to making every piece one of a kind. The uniqueness and value of the collection are paramount as Blair sits down with every client and discusses what they like to wear and what dates are meaningful to them in order to conceptualize a piece that will be wholly unique. “I love numbers,” she says. “They’re a strong part of our lives. Everyone has a number that is significant—their age, a wedding anniversary, a child’s birthday, a christening date, and so on.” Her roman numerals are not only structural and clean in design, but they’re also good conversation pieces. “When you see it on someone,” Blair explains, “you want to know what it is… what it means.” What’s more, once a jewelry piece is made to memorialize a date or special number, it can be passed down through generations with a bit of family history and lore embedded in it.

Blair Husain works out of a midtown workshop in Manhattan’s famous diamond district. She is photographed here with one of the jewelers in her workshop, along with the tools of her trade. Her jewelry, including the 18-kt. Leo and Taurus lariat pendants pictured here, is all hand-crafted in New York City using solid gold and the occasional diamond. Every design is personalized and truly bespoke. “Jewelry today should be thoughtful and should be worn every day,” Blair says. “It should be unique and make the individual feel special.”

Left: The designer photographed in her home office wearing an 18-kt. gold and jade necklace with Leo zodiac pendants, and surrounded by examples of her work. Above: A close-up of the 18-kt. yellow gold Cancer zodiac pendant. Blair’s hair and makeup are by Kosia Asiamah (kosiahair.com).

Another staple in Blair’s line is the personalized zodiac collection. These pieces, which are very architectural, using simple, solid lines of gold, would make creative, playful additions to any woman’s wardrobe. “Jewelry should be thoughtful, wearable, and something worth talking about,” Blair says. “Most people are familiar with their own zodiac symbol, and when they recognize it on someone else, it can be a good start to a conversation.” The zodiac pieces are available for more immediate order, while the bespoke roman numeral line can take anywhere from ten days to six weeks to complete. The beauty of Blair’s designs is that they allow clients to invest not just in jewelry, but in a piece of themselves. “The jewelry that you invest in should have character, should be exclusive, and should be wearable,” she says. “What I really love is sitting down with clients to create something unique that will last forever.” Her pieces do just that, especially for those who are hard to shop for. Additionally, one can never go wrong by investing in solidly crafted gold, which, of all the precious metals, retains its value best and continues to appreciate as a commodity. As Blair says, “My clients know they’re getting something timeless. Each piece is recognizable and without equal.” Indeed, the entire Blair Husain design line is very distinguished—and distinguishing. u M AY 2 0 1 1 1 1 9

keeping time By Daniel Cappello

From the latest introductions at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie and BaselWorld, to fun British dials showing up on our shores, 2011 is proving a great year for keeping up with the times. Here are some of the best new timepieces worth watching.

This page, clockwise from top left: Piaget’s Emperador Coussin Tourbillon Automatic; Harry Winston’s Rosebud with diamonds and satin strap; the women’s steel and 18-kt. gold Classic with white diamond set bezel from David Yurman; Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona in everose gold with chocolate dial. Opposite, clockwise from top left: Ralph Lauren’s Sporting Watch with elm burl wood dial; Patek Philippe, a regular at jewelry house Wempe, introduces the latest ladies’ Gondolo; Asprey’s British Moments Watch.

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Clockwise from top left: Charriol’s Saint Tropez watch with silvertone cable bracelet and mother-of-pearl bezel; the Arceau Chrono in white from Hermès; Gucci’s G-Timeless watches in black calf leather embossed with “technopointe” motif strap and PVD case. 122 QUEST

basel report: the latest trends in fine watchmaking Baselworld didn’t begin as a watch and jewelry fair. It was originally a fair that displayed all things Swiss, from cheese and chocolate, to watches and sausages. My father, Philippe Charriol, told me that at his first Basel, in 1978, he bought a salami-slicing machine. Then, that year, Cartier was finally allowed to show (even though it was a French brand), and that marked the beginning of the current BaselWorld, which became, by the mid-1980s, a fair exclusively for watches and jewelry. I traveled to Basel in March to take in the rows of breathtaking craftsmanship and design. The first stop was the Hall of Dreams, holding the priciest brands in the industry: Rolex, Chopard, Patek Philippe, and the Swatch roup. There was a clear back-tobasics trend here. After the recession, there was an overwhelming desire to return to the DNA that made these brands famous in the first place. Patek had something like twenty debuts at the show, but they all looked pretty much the same as their current models. Patek purists lined up literally around the “block” (that’s how big their booth is!) to peer inside its windows and soak up the view. The same was true of Rolex. My husband tells me how amazing the Explorer II is, with its orange second time zone hour hand, a throwback to the 1970s “Steve McQueen” Explorer. If that’s your thing, you’ll love it, as well as the new Daytona Cosmograph chrono in rose/yellow gold with chocolate dials. That theme could also be seen at Chopard and Hublot, as well as in the fashion houses Dior and Chanel. An editorial favorite from the fair, I’m sure, will be Chanel’s titanium J12. Another classic return is the snake watch from Bulgari. My family’s company, Charriol, launched a new Celtic watch with our signature cable bracelet that has been in the collection for thirty years. Apparently black is back—on straps, dials, and cases. With new technologies, many brands are making watches with a scratch resistant, dark-colored PVD coating (physical vapour deposition). I also spotted the use of innovative alloys, such as black aluminum, as used by Zenith. Gucci presented itself

entirely in black, with new models of the G-Timeless collection. Perrelet, inventor of the automatic watch, had one as well, called “Turbine.” Charriol showed off its “Celtica 42” chronograph for men with a cable-like rubber bracelet. Some watches even had tinted black glass, but then you can’t read the time at night! Another trend was colored rubber with matching dials. The first example I saw of this was at Techo Marine, which makes sense since it created the first color and rubber high-end watches. Its new collection is called “cruise original lipstick.” At the lower end, Puma also showed lots of colorful rubber and dials. The second floor is called the Hall of Desires, and it features the world’s largest luxury brands, better known for their jewelry or fashion than their watches—Hermès, Harry Winston, Dior, and de Grisogono, to name a few. To some extent, Chinese consumers are driving the huge sales in “fashion” watches, both in terms of the number of new fashion brands trying to enter the watch segment, such as Ferragamo, or from the existing players expanding their presence is this category, like Hermès, Chanel, and Dior. The real stand-outs in the fashion and mass-market brands were Guess, TW Steel, Nixon, Tendence, Philip Stein, Fendi, Ferragamo, and Paris Hilton (still around). Even if these brands didn’t begin as true watchmakers, the pieces usually have a great look for a good price—and have the power of a name! Of all of the booths on this level, I was most impressed by de Grisogono, which seemed to exude owner Fawaz Gruosi’s, famous confidence. It had a black shiny façade pierced by halogen button lights and a dramatic glass corner entrance with doubleheight chandeliers and a sweeping semi-circular staircase. All in all, BaselWorld 2011 was about expert craftsmanship. There were some amazing design achievements among the new entrants trying to make their mark, while industry titans returned to their tried-and-true roots. —Coralie Charriol Paul Above: The author at BaselWorld with her father, Philippe Charriol. M AY 2 0 1 1 1 2 3

Clockwise from top left: Tiffany Watch Co.’s new Atlas Cocktail timepiece in black with black lacquered dial and full-cut diamonds; de Grisogono’s Meccanico dG N˚9 in matte black titanium; Montblanc’s Star World-Time Automatic featuring an entirely new setting mechanism; Jaeger-Lecoultre’s Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute to 1931 timepiece in stainless steel. 124 QUEST

Clockwise from top left: Vacheron Constantinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Patrimony Contemporaine Perpetual Calendar, ultra-thin model; Chopardâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Imperiale Two-Tone timepiece in rose gold and steel; the Audemars Piguet Millenary 4101 is a hybrid that gives a glance of the fine mechanism from inside of its precious metal case.

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near the heart Quest sits down with jewelry connoisseur and stylist Tracy Smith to talk about the comeback of sentimental lockets. By georgina schaeffer

Tracy Smith of House of Lavande.

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the victorians were known as the great sentimentalists. Even as the Industrial Age seized the era with its modern inventions and marvels, it seemed that people still favored a more tender way of life. These emotions translated directly into their manners and fashions, and nowhere is this sentiment more directly seen than with their historic love of lockets. Originally designed to carry powder and poisons, the locket evolved into a way to keep a picture of a loved one, a lock of hair, or a personal memento close—quite literally—to the heart. Today, in our increasingly digitized world, it makes sense that the little locket is making a big comeback. In Palm Beach, Tracy Smith at House of Lavande has been collecting lockets for years, and, to some extent, they have become a signature of her personal style and her boutique. “I just started buying them as I do for my overall collection,” she says. “Each one I chose for a reason, whether it was the shape, the photo inside, the engraving, or just a feeling I got from it. Although all of my vintage pieces are special to me, there is something 1 2 8 Q U EST

very undeniable about the sentiment of a locket.” Five years later, Smith has amassed an amazing collection of eighteenthcentury lockets that represents the breadth and variety of this unique piece of jewelry. Ironically, what stands in direct opposition to the sentiment of the locket is its construction; lockets were among the first mass-produced costume jewelry pieces. Lockets are made in a variety of metals including brass, copper, aluminum, iron, sterling silver, and platinum, but most commonly in gold. While usually designed in round or oval shapes, lockets can be found in just about every form, from heart to hexagon. Many Victorian lockets are set with seed pearls, gemstones, and old miner’s cut diamonds. Like charms on a bracelet or necklace, monograms are popular on antique lockets and they also often carry a variety of motifs bearing personal meaning for the wearer—from a dog head for a dog lover to a Masonic symbol for an architect. “My first one came from an antiques show and it just spoke to me,” says Smith. “It’s a ladies pocket watch converted into a locket with photos under glass. It is probably my favorite. Even though it’s not the most beautiful one I have, the photos inside are memories that I now feel are a part of me somehow.” Whimsy and romance are at the heart of the locket, and that is a trend in jewelry that will hopefully always be in style. u

This page: an array of lockets that Tracy Smith has procured from various estate sales. Lockets, favored by Victorians, come in all shapes and sizes and express a range of sentiments or interests. Opposite: the locket drawer at Smithâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s store, House of Lavande, in Palm Beach. Inset: another antique locket from House of Lavande.

a bright future By georgina schaeffer

In march, luxury behemoth LVMH bought the family-owned

jewlery company Bulgari in a deal valued at more than 4 billion euros—more than LVMH has offered for any other company. Now in its 127th year, the Bulgari brand has been synonymous with Italian luxury for more than a century. Today the jewelry is highly visible—Richard Burton gave Elizabeth Taylor a Bulgari emerald and diamond pendant for her wedding jewelry and Keira Knightley wore a vintage necklace to this year’s Oscars. An exquisite platinum and diamond Bulgari necklace that can convert into a brooch, bracelets, and clips, circa 1938. 130 QUEST

rizzoli

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Right: Necklace in gold with emeralds, amethysts, citrines, pink tourmalines, sapphires, and diamonds, 1991. Left, from top: Necklace in gold with emeralds, rubies, sapphires, and diamonds, 1967-1968; the cover of the book celebrating Bulgari’s 125-year history.

rizzoli

But its origins began in Greece, when Sotirios Voulgaris opened his first store in his native village of Paramythia. In 1877, Voulgaris left for Corfu, then Naples, and finally Rome, where in 1884 he founded the company and opened his second shop. Today, the Bulgari flagship is still located on Via dei Condotti, which was opened in 1905 with the help of Voulgaris’s two sons, Constantino and Giorgio. It wasn’t until the 1970s that Bulgari took to opening international locations in New York, Paris, Geneva, and Monte Carlo. In 1984, the company headed into the next generation, with Voulgaris’s grandchildren Paolo and Nicola Bulgari named chairman and vice chairman. His nephew Francesco Trapani became the company’s CEO. Under his tenure, Bulgari saw even greater expansion with the release of a perfume line. In the recent book Bulgari (Rizzoli), author Amanda Triossi and Daniel Mascetti explore the colorful, kaleidoscopic history of the brand’s jewelry. From photographs of its earliest design workshops to the 1960s Hollywood starlets who wore the pieces on the red carpet, the book presents the full journey of this venerated brand. And, with color illustrations of more than three hundred objects spanning from the late nineteenth century into the present day, the only thing left to write is Bulgari’s next chapter. u

bigger & better

there is an unmistakably Italian character

to the Madison Avenue offices of Fawaz Gruosi, the Florence-born, Geneva-based founder, owner, and president of jewelry house de Grisogono: the yellow walls and gray moldings (which, anywhere but here or Rome, could feel almost dated), the glass table and light fixtures, the old cabinets, the ingrained scent of tobacco. The room, like Gruosi himself, is warm, self-possessed, and unapologetically distinct. Gruosi, tanned, composed, impeccably dressed, can’t seem to escape unrelenting phone calls. He and I have been talking about last December’s fire that obliterated the de Grisogono 134 QUEST

store below. “I got burned,” he says calmly, almost missing the pun (or intending it?). “But now it’s like we had plastic surgery, and are only better.” It’s an apt metaphor. Bigger and better are something of a theme with de Grisogono. A veteran of the esteemed jewelry team at Bulgari, Gruosi, without any commercial strategy, broke off on his own in 1993 with only a bold vision. His ambition was to offer clients exclusive art objects in the form of his inventive, precious jewelry. His use of highly sought-after stones, unique settings, daring forms, and big presentation soon established a distinct “de Grisogono” look—not to mention a steadfast and appreciative clientele.

CO U RTE S Y O F D E G R I S O G O N O

By daniel cappello

This page: Fawaz Gruosi wearing a Grande NË&#x161;6 de Grisogono watch in rose gold. Opposite page: white pearl and tsavorite diamond necklace; yellow oval sapphire ring with blue sapphires and diamonds; rutilated quartz ring with emeralds and brown and white diamonds.

This page: Isabelle Adjani, right, and Kristen Scott Thomas, below, in de Grisogono, are among the celebrities who are fans of the brand; an artisan working in the finest Swiss traditions. Opposite: coral drop white diamond necklace; Gypsy earrings in sapphires, rubies, and diamonds; the Instrumento S19 Dual Time (pink) and the Tondo RM S52 in white gold (black).

CO U RTE S Y O F D E G R I S O G O N O

“I like to create jewelry that is big, noticeable, and different,” says de Grisogono’s Fawaz Gruosi. “If jewelry can’t be seen, there is no point wearing it.”

Gruosi has long defied trends. Years ago, he became intrigued by the mysterious allure of the black diamond, a rather unpopular choice. Still, he crafted a gold, pearl, and black diamond ring that not only launched the company’s trademark (this year at BaselWorld, de Grisogono celebrated the fifteenth anniversary of its now emblematic stone), but also sent market prices soaring for black diamonds everywhere. Suddenly, what was once “out” was back in fashion. In fact, Gruosi’s always been a trendsetter. In 2000, seven years after proving himself as a jeweler, Gruosi introduced a watch—Instrumento N˚Uno—which has

expanded into more than twenty collections of exclusive and original designs (yes, he used a new shade of brownhued gold known as “Browny Brown Gold”). In any of his designs, be they jewelry or watch, he never aims for the classic or the demure; de Grisogono is all about big, noticeable, and inventive. His current spring collection, which Madison Avenue shoppers will soon have the joy to delight in with a grand reopening, is a glamorous homage to the delicate green hue of radiant emerald stars—an entrancing stone that induces, much like the aesthete himself and his new store, love and hope. u MAY 2 0 1 1 1 3 7

appearances

book parties and beijing by hilary geary

don’t you love springtime in New

York, especially after the long, cold, brutal winter we endured? There is nothing like a touch of spring in the air, with pink cherry blossoms blooming and daffodils popping up to energize us. The gang is all back in town after traveling around the globe, and they’re ready to say “hello” to city life. And

how do you do that? Go to parties!! So, what do you do when a dear pal writes a book? You give a party. That’s exactly what my husband Wilbur and I did when adorable Karen LeFrak wrote Best in Show, an enchanting children’s book illustrated by Andrew Day. The book is a most charming introduction to dog shows and competition—just the

right read for all the little four to eight year olds you love in your life. I have to say, this is Karen’s third enchanting children’s book and, yes, it’s another winner, preceded by Jake the Philharmonic Dog and Jake the Ballet Dog. Among the group: Karen’s adorable husband, Richard, Mayor Michael Bloomberg, Melania and Donald Trump, Julian

From left: Donald and Melania Trump at the book party for Karen LeFrak; Karen LeFrak, Donna Acquavella, and Mayor Michael Bloomberg at the book party.

Traveling to Beijing, clockwise from left: Dinner at the China Club; K.S.E. with Elsa at the desk; alligator skins at Mayer Shoes luggage at the Mandarin Oriental; Diane von Furstenberg exhibition at the Pace Gallery.

Robertson, Joe and Penelope Kernan, Lori Ann LaRocca, Mike Meehan and Jean Harvey Vanderbilt, John Paulson, Kimberly and Steven Rockefeller, Evelyn Lauder, Deborah Norville and Karl Wellner, Jeanine Pirro, Ambassador Ed and Pat Ney, Joanne de Guardiola, Scarlett and Bill Robertson, Harry Benson, Clelia and Tom Zacharias, Chris Meigher, Cornelia and Marty Bregman, Sydie Lansing, Somers Farkas, Amy Fine Collins, Kathy and Rick Hilton, Susan Warner, Mark Gilbertson, Christy Ferrer, Harriet Weintraub, Gail Hilson, Amanda Haynes-Dale, Jamie Figg, Martha Kramer, Marianna and George Kaufman, Adrienne and Gigi Vittadini, Arriana and Dixon Boardman, Lauren and John Veronis, Dana Hammond, Daisy Soros, Lex and Marjorie Federbush, Debbie Black, Denise and John Calicchio, Francine and Rick Friedberg, Peter Lyden, Ambassador Donald and Vera Blinken, and more. Then it was off for a quick spin to Hong Kong and Beijing for six days. I must say, in less than a week’s time, it is

amazing how much you can pack in if you ignore jet lag and keep on moving. Our first stop was the heavenly Four Seasons Hotel in Hong Kong, recently built right smack on the harbor. It is wonderfully run with impeccable service. We headed right out to Sir David Tang’s China Club for dinner, located on the top three floors of the old Bank of China building in Central, quite close to the Four Seasons. The China Club is worth a visit for the fabulous contemporary Chinese art collection and the chic decoration alone! The decor is impossibly glamorous, 1930s Shanghai teahouse, plus there is nightly entertainment, including singers and even a tea ceremony. There are also private rooms for small dinners, cigar smoking, cards, and mahjong, plus an enormous library on Chinese culture. The next day, we headed to the Mandarin Oriental to check out Mayer Shoes’ luggage and order some alligator copies in luscious colors of my favorite Louboutins. Afterward, I headed across the hall to K.S.E jewelers to see the adorable Elsa, who re-strung my pearls and

tempted me with some of her beautiful baubles. That night we came back to dine at Amber in the Mandarin Oriental, a two-star Michelin restaurant with a great view and scrumptious food. Then it was off to Beijing to stay at the glorious Aman Hotel at the Summer Palace. This hotel is as close to paradise as you are going to get, and it is set in antique buildings that have been lovingly and tastefully restored. You will find four top restaurants, an unbelievably luxe spa, a huge indoor pool, a vast gym and Pilates room, a hairdresser, movie theater, squash courts, and more—all right next door to the historic Summer Palace! They even have a secret door just for Aman guests to tour the Summer Palace grounds. We then headed to the 798 district to peek at the Diane Von Furstenberg exhibition at the Pace Gallery, then headed to the Asia Art Center, and then off to Meg Maggio’s gallery, Pekin Fine Arts. That night we headed to Silas Chou’s divine penthouse overlooking the Olympic Village! What a breathtaking sight, and what a whirlwind week! u M AY 2 0 1 1 1 3 9

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THE YOUNG & THE GUEST LIST From one of John Munson’s parties at the SoHo Grand to a Cinema Society screening with Lindsay Lohan, our columnist taxis all around town—stopping once to walk the runway at Dressed to Kilt! by Elizabeth quinn Brown The women of country group Stealing Angels walked the runway in Scottish-themed outfits for Dressed to Kilt.

The cast of Broadway’s Championship Season, including Chris Noth and Keifer Sutherland, mooned the crowd after a recent performance.

Michelle Trachtenberg wore Marchesa to the School of American Ballet’s Winter Ball and “The Encore.”

Fruzsina Molnar at The Trilby at the Cooper Square Hotel.

Keanu Reeves at the Cinema Society

patrick mcmullan

screening of Henry’s Crime.

Rugby players Richie Gray and Thom Evans received

Nicola Mimnagh, the current Miss Scotland, in

high marks from the Dressed to Kilt judges.

a tartan dress at Dressed to Kilt.

Kurt Vonnegut wrote, “I tell you, we are here on Earth to fart around, and don’t let anybody tell you different.” I mean, maybe. Wouldn’t that be swell? In March, the School of American Ballet hosted its Winter Ball, followed by “The Encore,” an after-party for young supporters. Following a performance by the advanced students, choreographed by Adam Hendrickson, Chelsea Clinton and Marc Mezvinsky engaged in a “pas de deux,” while Michelle Trachtenberg twirled around in purple Marchesa. A couple of days later, the Cinema Society and Montblanc hosted a screening of Cracks, with an after-party held at the SoHo Grand. That weekend, it was back to the hotel’s Club Room for Sebastian Bland and David Mehlman’s “annual

twenty-first” birthdays, hosted, of course, by John Munson. The party was brimming with familiar faces, like Charles Darling, Lara Glaister, and Christie Schiff. Later in the month, Ivanka Trump and Craig McDean hosted the launch of Jamie Johnson’s Black Sweater, a collection named for the tradition of being shipped a “black sweater” after missteps made at the Jupiter Island Club—a signal that you were not welcome the coming winter on Hobe Sound. Hayley Bloomingdale, Ashley Wick, and Chessy Wilson browsed the clothing, embroidered with cheeky details like a cursive “Palm Beach” on the cuff of an oxford or a needlepoint tennis player on the waist of a pant. Afterward, I accompanied Sam Dangremond to ‘inoteca cucina for a dinner hosted by the Supper M AY 2 0 1 1 1 4 1

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Vanessa Breuer at the Cinema Society

Club, an organization with outposts in London, Los Angeles, and New York. We ate all sorts of bruschette and Nutella panini. Nom. I always look forward to Andrew Saffir’s screenings, and this month there were several. First there was the after party for the Cinema Society screening of Meek’s Cutoff at The Jimmy at the James Hotel. Then, a couple of days later, I attended a screening of Source Code, starring Jake Gyllenhaal and Michelle Monaghan. The film—part Groundhog Day, part The Matrix, part Speed—was bomb. And so was being seated right in front of Lindsay “Lindsay” Lohan. Before bed, I stopped by Riff Raff’s for an Oakley-presented party featuring performances by Kelley James, Caitlin Moe and Mia Moretti. A week or so later the Cinema Society and DeLeon Tequila hosted another screening, this time for Henry’s Crime. At the after-party at The Trilby at the Cooper Square Hotel, Vera Farmiga, Parker Posey, and Mary Alice Stephenson mingled with the cast. The following day, I participated as a judge at this year’s

Left: Sofia Coppola at a Cinema Society after-party at The Jimmy. Right: Santigold attended the screening of Meek’s Cutoff, along with the film’s cast.

1 4 2 Q UE S T

Dressed to Kilt fashion show. Since I really, really like themed events—I blame Camp Trin—I outfitted myself in my version of Scottish garb: heeled, laceup Hunter boots and a Burberry skirt last seen circa 2004. I sat between Bee-Shyuan Chang and Peter Davis, awarding one, two, or three points to models like Katrina Bowden (three) and a shirtless someone who performed push-ups in his kilt (definitely a three). To finish, the cast of The Championship Season (Brian Cox, Jim Gaffigan, Chris Noth, Jason Patric, and Keifer Sutherland) dropped trou ... erm, skirt ... at the end of the runway. So, like, hi, all of Mr. Big. A not-so-scandalous hour or two later found me on my couch with some swag in the form of Walkers pure butter shortbread. This month, on the 26th, I’m especially looking forward to the New York Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Children’s benefit at The Empire Room at The Empire State Building. See you there! u

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screening of indie drama Cracks.

Daniel Benedict and Andrew Saffir at a Bergdorf Goodman Men’s store event.

Bettina Prentice and Luigi Tadini toast Jamie Johnson’s new collection, Black Sweater.

James Marsden at the Cinema Society screening of Source Code.

Ivanka Trump with Jamie Johnson for the launch of his new Black Sweater line.

Singer Kelley James, DJ Mia Moretti, and violinist Caitlin Moe performed at a party at Riff Raff’s.

Lindsay Lohan attended the Cinema Society screening of Source Code.

Michelle Monaghan and Jake Gyllenhaal promote their

Eric Morgan and Mandie Erickson at the

new film, Source Code, at the Cinema Society.

Bergdorf Goodman Men’s store. M AY 2 0 1 1 1 4 3

SNAPSHOT

A screen shot of a young Elizabeth Taylor. Inset: Artist and designer Michael Vollbracht’s painting of Taylor, also used as the cover of his book Nothing Sacred.

“oh, jack warner gave me that after we finished Virginia Woolf.” I held a diamond bracelet. “Dear, dear Monty gave me this.” She held up a lovely pendent. Even thought it was from her once best friend, it was a small treasure compared to the jewels that were spread before us. The “La Peregrina” pearl lay next to the tiara Mike Todd gave her during their tumultuous marriage. Rubies, emeralds, the diamond-andpearl drop earrings she wore when she won her first Oscar, were just some of the fabulous movie queen’s jewels plopped from the ziplock bags she casually kept them in. I was in bed with Elizabeth Taylor, literally and figuratively. She was temporarily bankrolling my fashion business. I was in between my first partners and soon-to-be partners, Mr. and Mrs. Johnny Carson. Elizabeth was Senator John Warner’s wife and now living in Washington, D.C. I was there to dress her for a ball she was to co-host with Vice President Bush for the first Reagan inauguration. Much 144 QUEST

to her displeasure, she was also to attend other political funtions. On the second night of the Republicans’ hoopla, feeling put upon, she became increasingly petulant and decided to stay in bed. After screams and yells and the slamming of doors, she was now home alone, except for the staff downstairs, and me, still re-fixing the dress she was, hopefully, to wear the next evening. “Oh, Michael...” I was being summonded upstairs. Thus, our evening on top of the Warners bed. Our “baubles, bangles, and beads” love-fest was about to come to an end when she spotted a tiny ring. She was now as excited as if she had just been delivered the Hope Diamond. She gazed with childlike adoration at the modest gem won for beating her fifth husband at table-tennis. Of all the spoils given to her by Richard Burton that laid before us, it was the “ping-pong ring,” dime-store size and certainly a pittance to a queen, that made her smile a genuine smile. I saw that she was in love. —Michael Vollbracht

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Elizabeth Taylor

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