$5.00 MARCH 2018
THE SPRING STYLE ISSUE
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Manhasset, NY – New Construction Experience ultimate luxury living in this stunning Connecticut Manhasset, NY – New Construction Fieldstone Colonial in Plandome Manor. Boasting the finest quality Experience ultimate luxury living in this stunning Connecticut of craftsmanship throughout, this smart home features 6 en suite Fieldstone in Plandome bedrooms,Colonial 4-car garage and sits Manor. on ½ anBoasting acre. SD the #6. finest MLS# quality of2994855. craftsmanship throughout, this smart home features 6 en suite $4,850,000. bedrooms, garage and sits on ½ an acre. SD #6. MLS# Rosemary4-car O’Neill, 516.627.4440 ext.180, c.516.578.3099 2994855. $4,850,000. Rosemary O’Neill, 516.627.4440 ext.180, c.516.578.3099
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Spectacular new construction built by The Worrell Group. Magnificent Spectacular new construction built by The Worrell Group. Magnificent 7,230 stone and shingle home situated a tranquil, private 7,230 sq.sq. ft.ft. stone and shingle home situated on aon tranquil, private lane lane beautifully landscaped acres. Features 6 bedrooms, 6 baths, onon 2.12.1 beautifully landscaped acres. Features 6 bedrooms, 6 baths, and a powder room. Short rideride to restaurants andand country clubs. and a powder room. Short to restaurants country clubs. Complete with Locust Valley SDSD #3.#3. MLS# 2995838. $4,795,000. Complete with Locust Valley MLS# 2995838. $4,795,000. John Messina, 631.692.6770 ext.216, c.516.241.0761 John Messina, 631.692.6770 ext.216, c.516.241.0761
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Matinecock, NY Nestled amongst tall trees and abutting a private golf course this Matinecock, NY fabulous 6-bedroom, 6.55-bath remodeled Country Colonial with Nestled amongst tall trees and abutting a private golf course this gourmet kitchen, large family room, living room, dining room and fabulousSpacious 6-bedroom, 6.55-bath remodeled Country Colonial with sunroom. heated 5-car garage built on concrete block with gourmet large family room, living room, dining room and floor drains.kitchen, SD #3. MLS# 3000236. $5,100,000. sunroom. 5-car garage built on concrete block with Christina F. Spacious (Christy) heated Porter, 516.759.4800 ext.142, c.516.835.5512 floor drains. SD #3. MLS# 3000236. $5,100,000. Christina F. (Christy) Porter, 516.759.4800 ext.142, c.516.835.5512
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CONTENTS The S pring STyle i SSue 104
AN ARMARIUM ENSEMBLE AT THE COLONY HOTEL
Palm Beach’s Colony
Hotel serves as an ideal backdrop for Armarium’s pop-up style lab, with its prime location and Hollywood glamour. produced by elizabeTh Meigher, phoTographed by chriS SalaTa of capeharT phoTography
Celebrating Quest’s favorite arbiters of taste in a montage of
photographs from throughout the years. by elizabeTh Meigher
STABLE STYLE MEETS CITY CHIC
Sitting down with the founders of
Free x Rein, the equestrian fashion line fit for the office. by daniel cappello
Commemorating Norman Norell with a book from
Rizzoli and a museum exhibit at FIT. by daniel cappello and ann loynd
PALM BEACH PREP STYLE
For its new spring collection, J.McLaughlin heads to
Palm Beach to celebrate the island’s inimitable sense of style. by daniel cappello
THE DAY-DATE 40 The international symbol of performance and success, reinterpreted with a modernized design and a new-generation mechanical movement. It doesnâ€™t just tell time. It tells history.
OYSTER PERPETUAL DAY-DATE 40
oyster perpetual and day-date are ÂŽ trademarks.
C olumns 24
Tour South Carolina’s third-oldest house and sweeping plantation. by Carola lott
Our top brokers discuss the enduring bull market in their tony enclaves. by brooke kelly
YOUNG AND THE GUEST LIST
New Yorkers flee to Palm Beach for its hopping party scene. by DaviD PatriCk Columbia Our photographer recalls a day in L.A. with American fashion designer James Galanos.
Weighing in on a book about a royal family and a grisly murder.
Grace Mirabella imagines a conversation with Diana Vreeland, from October 1996.
Soaking in the views—and the standout food—at Jupiter’s 1000 North. by nanCy ellison Going shopping with spring in mind. by Daniel CaPPello anD elizabeth meigher
Gil Walsh on crafting an expertly accessorized interior with art and antiques. by ann loynD Charlotte Kellogg’s extensive travels inform her ever-changing colors and collections. Dr. Joseph Newell, called the golden dentist, on today’s best dental practices. by brooke kelly Designer Jenny Garrigues shares her artful vignette on view in Palm Beach. by ann loynD
This month’s events, from preserving Palm Beach to fêting the Frick in New York. From Ralph’s runway to Superbowl celebrations.
Going to church for the Costume Institute’s 2018 exhibition at The Met.
DAVID PATRICK COLUMBIA C R E AT I V E D I R EC TO R
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DEPUT Y EDITOR
DANIEL CAPPELLO SENIOR EDITOR
ANN LOYND GRAPHIC DESIGNER/ PRODUCTION MANAGER
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Waterfront Lake House. 4 Bedrooms. 5.5 Baths. 2 Fireplaces. Salt Water Pool. Pool House. Multiple Stone Patios. Dock. Beach. 7.14± Acres. $2.850.000. Maria Taylor. 860.868.7313.
Elegant Mansard-style. 5 Bedrooms. Indoor Pool. Guest Apartment. Pond. Abutting Steep Rock. 22.94± Acres. Owner/ Agent. $1.999.000. Melinda Dubow. 860.868.7313.
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Peter, at the Met; Wes Gordon, Carolina Herrera’s newly minted creative director, honors the designer on her finale at the Fall ’18 runway; equestrian chic, courtesy of Free x Rein; fashion legend Norman Norell.
FOR MANY, fashion is more than just a means of self-expression or a vehicle by which one dresses for success: it is an out-andout religion. And the worshipers tend to be very loyal and generous; my hands run out of fingers to count the friends and colleagues who happily write checks for the collection baskets at such houses as Blahnik, Brunello, Burberry… But the correlation between religion and fashion is nothing new, as the subject of this spring’s exhibit at the Costume Institute puts on glorious display: “Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination” (see our Snapshot for a sneak peek at the enduring influence of liturgical vestments on designers around the world). As this Spring Style Issue was coming to a close, so was New York Fashion Week, which culminated in news from American fashion’s high priestess, Carolina Herrera, who announced she would be transitioning to the role of global brand ambassador, naming wunderkind Wes Gordon as her eponymous brand’s new creative director. Over the course of her career, Quest has treasured its relationship with the house that Mrs. Herrera 22 QUEST
Daniel Cappello ON THE COVER: Whitney Bylin at The Colony Hotel in Palm Beach wearing a dress from Armarium designed by Alexis Mabille. From our feature story produced by Elizabeth Meigher and photographed by Chris Salata/ CAPEHART Photography.
CO U RTE S Y O F F I T ( N O R E LL ) ; CO U RT E S Y O F T H E M E T RO P O I LTA N M U S E U M O F A RT
mid-14th-century tempera on wood of Saint
S A M A N T H A D E I TC H / B FA . CO M ( H E R R E R A ) ; S A R A K E R E N S ; W I LL I A M H E LB U R N ,
This page, clockwise from center: A
has built. It’s always been a natural fit; her clothes exude the integrity, elegance, and cosmopolitan spirit of the quintessential Quest woman. We look forward to seeing where and how Mr. Gordon will lead this hallowed house. Our faith in American fashion continues to go strong, as this issue affirms, from features on the already anointed—Norman Norell and James Galanos—to those on their way to the pantheon, from preppy mainstay J.McLaughlin to nouveau niche innovator Free x Rein. Whether your taste in fashion is devoutly Catholic or diversely catholic, allow us to present this month’s offering. u
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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A
David Patrick Columbia
NEW YORK SO CIAL DIARY THE
seemed longer this year. Weather in New York, instead of being winter, was indecisive. Cold one day, warm the next; sometimes snow, sometimes rain. By month’s end, the Witch Hazel in Carl Schurz Park near my apartment was already
beginning to bloom. The social calendar matched the weather reports and there was lots of quiet between busy times. For many who lead very active social lives, it was more often out of town, be it Hamptons weekends or, for those who could, was down in the sun,
such as Palm Beach. Back to business. One night early in the month, I went to the Directors’ Circle dinner at the Frick Collection with about 60 attending, including internationally famous architect Annabelle Selldorf and Amyn Aga Khan. Black
tie. The invitation read: “Dinner in the Dining Room.” I’ve been to the Frick many times over the years. You get a strong sense of the man when you are in it. You share in Henry Clay Frick’s vibe. The vibe comes from five and six generations
A N N UA L B OYS A N D G I R L S C L U B S O F PA L M B E AC H W I N T E R B A L L H O N O R I N G W A L LY T U R N E R
Jason Laskey and Susan Lloyd 24 QUEST
Robert and Lydia Forbes with Amanda and Charles Schumacher
Reid and Michelle Boren
Lesly Smith and Danielle Moore
Betsy and Wally Turner
Mary Ourisman and Tom Quick
C A P E H A RT
Alfonso and Raysa Fanjul
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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A C O C K TA I L S FO R ST . M A RY ’ S M E D I C A L C E N T E R I N PA L M B E AC H
Lee and Jeff Alderton
back. I don’t doubt that he was deeply serious about many other things. He was a country boy from the hills of western Pennsylvania who made a great fortune and adapted to New York City. His house was his monument to himself, a kind of personality description. But when you are in it, you are accepted by it. The Sir Thomas Mores. The Fragonards. Vermeer, Turner, El Greco. They are yours just as they were his. They add something to your presence when viewing. One of my dinner partners told me that night that Henry Frick did not build that 26 QUEST
Pepe Fanjul, Jr., and Robi Jurney
Mary Ierardi and Cathie Fanjul
Keith James and Andres Fanjul
house to create a museum. I had always assumed he did because it is the perfect museum and very personal even with all its grandeur. He was drawn to grandeur, like a lot of us. Before he built the house on 70th and Fifth he rented the Vanderbilt mansion on 51st and Fifth. Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbilt III was said to have entertained 15,000 people a year at her dinners and receptions. Grandeur required just to handle the numbers. Mr. Frick did not share Mrs. Vanderbilt’s brand of hospitality. His obsession was his collection, which included furniture.
That was his grandeur. But he had to wait years after he bought the land on Fifth Avenue and 70th before he could build because it was occupied by the Lenox Library, which first had to be transferred to the New York Public Library. There were other lots available along Fifth in those days, but this one—the whole block along the avenue—was the one he wanted. He lived in the house for only five years before he died at age 69 of a heart attack. In his will, he directed that it become a collection open to the public. He was most fortunate to have been
Lian Fanjul Azqueta and David Feldman
Gail Coniglio and Bradley Lamm
succeeded by his daughter, Helen Clay Frick, who after his death eventually turned her father’s house into a monument to him and the collection that we can share almost a century later. This particular dinner is an annual affair for the members of the board of the Frick and their associates. Once seated, we were given a brief but informative and intriguing lecture by Xavier Salomon, who is the Peter Jay Sharp chief curator of the Frick Collection. The subject was two portraits of a man and his wife hanging on the north wall of the dining room, Sir
C A P E H A RT
Dror Paley and Sally Ricca
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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A Griffith and Lady Boynton of Burton Agnes Hall in East Yorkshire, mid-18th-century England. The painter was Francis Coats, who Mr. Salomon told us would have been among the great portraitists of his age, like Gainsborough and Romney, but he died at 44. Mr. Salomon also told us how he died—taking a homemade remedy for something that was bothering him. Unbeknownst, the “remedy” was poison and killed him. The paintings now belong to Pemmy Frick (Mrs. Henry Clay Frick II). They were in the Boynton family from the 18th century to the first decade of the 20th century
when Knoedler bought them from family members. Mr. Salomon explained how in those days of collecting, collectors wanted portraits of the women, the wives, and not so much the husbands. Knoedler had several interested clients but they really only wanted Lady Boynton. Some member of the Knoedler firm had decided that they should stay together. That is when Mr. Frick bought them, in 1915, for $50,000, which was a top price for Knoedler and in today’s dollars would probably be more like $5 million. The Boyntons’ portraits were never hung in the Frick
mansion in New York, but instead were hung in Eagle Rock, the Frick country house in Prides Crossing, Massachusetts. They have been lent to the collection at various times, as they are again. The portraits have only been in the possession of two families for over 200 years, the Boyntons and the Fricks. So there we were, sitting among all this splendor of a dining room that overlooks East 70th Street, filled with the treasures, with an excellent dinner menu: Maine Lobster Salad with Satur Farms Roasted Beets, Horseradish, Young Mâche and Hazelnut Vinaigrette,
plus Duo of Beef Short Ribs and Beef Tenderloin, Black Trupets, Brussels Sprout Leaves, Winter Roots, Celery Root Mousseline and Bordelaise Sauce, followed by Apple Tarte Tatin with Rum Raisin Crème Foueettee. Then, on a Wednesday night, the Mabel Mercer Foundation hosted a “Celebration of the Life and the Career of Barbara Carroll” on the day that was her 93rd birthday. Barbara died last February after a brief illness. For almost seven decades, from 1947 to 2016, the lady was performing. Her final appearances were at Birdland in 2016. Barbara Carole Copper-
C E N T R A L PA R K C O N S E R VA N C Y ’ S W I N T E R L U N C H EO N AT T H E R A I N B O W R O OM
Allison Aston and Mary Snow
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Maria Fishel and Polina Proshkina
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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A smith was born in Worcester, Massachusetts, on January 25, 1925. She started her life on the piano at age five when her parents could see that it was a natural talent. They took piano lessons to give her basic knowledge of the classical technique. However, it was jazz and pop that stole her fancy. Her early idols were Nat Cole, Teddy Wilson, and Art Tatum. When discussing those early days of her life, she once told me that she was so enraptured by their talent that, as a teenager, she would go around that house lamenting that she wasn’t born black. Her mother, who was Jewish,
could not comprehend it. Nevertheless, the girl did. When she was only 15, she organized her own trio and was playing at local dances in the Worcester area. Those were the early days of radio and the beginnings of Swing. All across America people were gathering on their nights off to dance to the live music of young local musicians. Barbara loved it, she was born for it. When she went off to the New England Conservatory of Music after high school, at age 17, she paid for it with money she saved and with money that she continued to earn playing gigs at local dances.
Barbara came to New York in 1947. She soon found there was a decided “prejudice” against female musicians among the professionals. Nevertheless, New York’s nightlife was at its zenith, and the young jazz pianist was converted. There were clubs and nightspots all over town—east, west, uptown and downtown. 52nd Street was known as Jazz Street. All the greats were on the bill. On the block of 52nd between Fifth and Sixth, every doorway led to a nightclub. They had been there in volume from the days of Prohibition when they were speakeasies. A friend helped her get a
first booking under the name Bobbie Carroll because a woman piano player was not wanted. So they hired Bobbie Carroll, sight unseen, and were openly disappointed when she showed up. But it was too late to get a replacement. And the show must go on. At that gig she was so impressive that an agent told her to get a trio together and he’d book her into the Downbeat Club, where Dizzy Gillespie and his orchestra were the main attraction. The Barbara Carroll Trio was born, and they clicked. She also married her bass player, Joe Schulman. Throughout the ’40s and
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’50s, Barbara played in clubs in New York, Chicago, Detroit, Los Angeles, and San Francisco. During an engagement at the famous Embers jazz club in New York, she shared the bill with one of her idols, the great Art Tatum. She made appearances in the brand new Today show, hosted by Dave Garroway. One particular day, Billie Holiday was making an appearance and at the last minute her pianist didn’t show up. Barbara had to substitute and accompany the great Billie Holiday. In 1952, she was hired for the original cast 32 QUEST
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production of Rodgers and Hammerstein’s Me and Juliet playing a rehearsal pianist onstage in the show. By then her career was established and she traveled the country with her own jazz trio. In the late ’50s, Joe Schulman died suddenly in his early 30s of a heart attack. Three years later she married Burt Block, an agent. They had daughter Suzanne who has since made Barbara a grandmother. The ’60s through the early ’70s were quieter on the professional front. Burt Block died in 1986. In 2011, Barbara married for the third time to a longtime fan and friend, a connoisseur
of jazz himself, Mark Stroock, who survives her. She had a warm, serene quality to her demeanor. It was a natural elegance. She was gentle, soft-spoken, and a hearty laugher. She was a great artist. And she was very human. “She loved gossip,” Steven Holden of the New York Times recalled, “but she never gossiped.” She was one of those women who took it all in and left it at the table—a friend to many, and the same person with everyone. This birthday night’s celebration was all music, performed by friends and admirers with songs to
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reflect their feelings about her. All that talent on the stage of the Laurie Beechman Theater (downstairs at 407 West 42nd Street) sang in memory of her with songs as their message. Steve Ross gave us a jazzy cabaret rendition of the Gershwins’ “Who Cares?” Only this past Monday he played at Birdland, with a tribute to Alan Jay Lerner, called “I Remember Him Well.” (“We met at nine. No it was eight. I was on time. No you were late…ah yes, I remember it well…). There were 10 performances for Barbara, including Jay Leonhardt’s bass solo of one of Barbara’s
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M a d e
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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A favorite tunes. Marilyn Maye closed the evening with her amazing voice singing Alan Jay Lerner and Burton Lane’s “On A Clear Day” (“you can see forever...”). Barbara was with us every minute of the show. Family history. On a cloudy, cool, and mild winter’s morning here in New York, after some very light snowfall from the night before, I got an invitation by email that read: “Jane Fonda, Brooke Hayward, and Linda Fargo invite you to celebrate HAYWARD + HOPPER,” featuring a specially curated collection of jewelry, handbags, furniture, books, and art at
Bergdorf Goodman on the seventh floor. Brooke’s daughter, Marin Hopper, with her husband, John Goldstone, created the company Hayward + Hopper. Marin has a shop on the corner of 70th and Lexington. In it she sells her line of handbags and her father’s photographs, which are highly collectible, as well books of Dennis Hopper’s work. What interested me about the invitation was the Fonda and Hayward part. These two girls grew up together. Brooke’s mother, Margaret Sullavan, was married to Jane’s father, Henry Fonda, before she was married to
Brooke’s father, Leland Hayward. (Leland Hayward later married Pamela Churchill, who later married Harriman.) Both girls hit 80 last year, and as far as I can see, it’s still just a number for them. The two families were close in those early days. Both were in the business of Broadway and Hollywood. The Hayward family story is in Brooke’s best-selling memoir, Haywire, which was initially published in 1977, and later made into a television series. It took the “celebrity memoir” into classic American literature. Jane’s story is, of course, ongoing. Jane and Brooke
were also both living in Los Angeles when they were young women starting out. But I knew they have not seen each other for many years. I was surprised by this “reunion” because Brooke basically avoids public situations and she keeps her world small and close. Society, wealth, or fame do not impress her in the least. She’s had enough of all of it. However, a couple of weeks ago, Marin Hopper somehow had the idea of inviting Brooke and Jane to join her and her husband for a lunch at Sette Mezzo. During the lunch, Marin proposed that they host a
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“launch” of her Hayward handbag line at Bergdorf’s. Jane said she would if Brooke would. Brooke liked the idea. It turned out to be a very good idea. Both women loved seeing each other. After the lunch, Brooke told me, they went across the avenue to show Jane Marin’s shop. Upon seeing the memorabilia and Dennis Hopper’s photographs of their times together in the 1960s in Los Angeles, Jane was so moved that her eyes filled with tears with the joy of recalling their early youth together. On the night of the party 36 QUEST
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I went down to Bergdorf’s where Jane Fonda, Brooke Hayward, and Linda Fargo were co-hosting a “celebration.” It turned out that Fonda couldn’t make it. She’d called Brooke on Tuesday from California, in bed with flu symptoms and a shoot on that Wednesday. Nevertheless, the 7th floor of Bergdorf’s was a mob scene—a Champagne mob scene—basically a young crowd getting off on the atmosphere and the camaraderie and, of course, the Champagne. It was actually a real party, more than a “store” party. The invitation read from six
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to 7:30 p.m. I departed at quarter to eight and it was still going strong. These are openly commercial and marketing parties, but this was done so well that one felt comfortably welcome, the way one does in a private party. On Friday, February 2, at noontime at the Majestic Theater on West 44th Street, there was a Memorial for Liz Smith. Cynthia McFadden, who opened the tribute, told us that Liz herself had always said she never wanted a memorial. Sometime in the last year or so, however, she changed her mind and actually planned it herself.
With a thorough sense of image, she had also requested that it be held in a Shubert Theater. It was an apt coincidence that, like the show The Phantom of the Opera, which has been occupying the Majestic for the past 30 years, Liz’s career too had a very long run. That day would have been her 95th birthday, and she never really totally withdrew from the activity until physical infirmities cut back on her schedule a little more than two years ago at age 93. Liz loved people. She had a generous spirit, an enthusiastic curiosity, and no
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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A one was too big or too small to appeal to her sensitivities about life. She was also very generous with many friends. She made millions in her career and much was used to provide for the needs of friends. She came to her career as a syndicated columnist— and television personality— comparatively late; she was in her mid-50s when she first got her own column. None of it was new to her. She had years of preparation, including ghostwriting the “Cholly Knickerbocker” society column in the 1960s for Igor (Ghighi) Cassini in the now-defunct New York Journal-American.
By the time she came to the job, she knew the whole world of Broadway and Hollywood and what we now call media, and they knew her. She’d written for years for Helen Gurley Brown in Cosmo, as well as for many other magazines and newspapers. Because she also had the gift of friendship, her life was constantly expanding and she was constantly learning. She also had a talent for having a good time. Her enthusiasm about life, events, and people never seemed to wane. As she matured in career and life, she never lost that. She was obviously a very
sophisticated woman in that New York way of having heard it all, seen it all, and maybe “done” it all. Yet she kept her down-home “Texas gal” personality; it remained an authentic touch. Memorials are a big crowd-getter in New York. They are public events about private lives in retrospect. Because they often involve the famous, as well as the rich. And they all have a production quality, beginning with the speakers. Meanwhile, those members of the general public attending do so out of respect for the departed, but also for the show—the celebrities in the audience as
well as those at the podium. It’s a New York community sort of thing. Liz’s memorial had all of that, and the Majestic, which has a seating capacity of 1,645, is beautifully maintained. You could feel like you’re on Deep Broadway sitting in that theater where entertainment history is still being made. There were well over a thousand in the audience. Speakers included Cynthia McFadden’s son Spencer Hoge, who was Liz’s godson, and Barry Diller, who also shared the February 2 birthday and told us how he once spent it with Liz and Elaine Stritch, who
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also shared the birth date. Stritch had asked that they go to “21,” which she hadn’t been to in some time. Once there and seated, Stritch decided she hated the place and insisted they leave. So they eventually ended up celebrating their birthdays at a 3 Guys on Madison Avenue. I’m sure Liz found the whole ordeal very funny. After Cynthia McFadden’s introduction, Tommy Tune took to the stage to tell us how after being out dancing with him one night, Liz asked if he would sing at her funeral. And so he did: Jerome Kern and Dorothy Fields’ “The Way You 40 QUEST
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Christina Pfaff and Paulina Brown
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Look Tonight,” which was originally written for Fred Astaire to sing to Ginger Rogers in Swingtime. Billy Norwich gave us a thumbnail autobiography of his career. Liz was foremost in the story because she had taken him up when he first came to New York out of college and advised him in making his way with introductions and counseling. Billy’s experience with Liz’s care and generosity was not unique. She often went out of her way, unrequested, to help others she believed in. You didn’t have to ask for favors—she naturally
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provided it. Lesley Stahl outlined that quality further, telling us about Liz’s impressive contributions to philanthropic projects. Joni Evans recounted her long relationship with Liz, trying to convince her to write a memoir. Liz insisted that she really did not want to write an autobiography, that she didn’t have time, and that she wouldn’t. On two different occasions, Joni was first able to offer Liz $100,000 with a $10,000 advance, which Liz declined, returning the ten grand. A second offer of $200,000 with a $20,000 advance was also refused.
A few years later, when Joni had become a literary agent herself, she found a publisher who would offer Liz $1,000,000. When Joni phoned Liz to tell her, the first question Liz asked was: “You didn’t turn it down, did you?” And so Natural Blonde was written and published to best-selling acclaim. Holland Taylor recalled meeting Liz years ago and making an instant friend, and Renée Zellweger recalled that she and Liz kept up a correspondence in letters and emails and described Liz as “the most wonderful person in the
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world.” Liz’s niece, Karen Smith Williamson, daughter of Liz’s brother James, recalled Liz’s other brother Bobby telling him about accompanying her on the trip when she made her big move (by bus) from Texas to New York. On arrival, they were standing in the road off the curb waiting for the light to change to cross when a cabbie going by yelled, “Get back on the curb you hicks,” whereupon Bobby wondered aloud to his sister, “How did he know?” The recollections were interspersed by Tommy Tune’s song and then a video clip of Liz and former Texas governor Ann Richards. Both got up in cowboy gear, singing “I’m An Old Cowhand…. from the Rio Grande.” Liz loved to sing—although she was no singer. When she emceed the annual gala of Literacy Partners
(which she founded with Parker Ladd and Arnold Scaasi, and for which she personally raised $40 million), she’d spend the evening at the podium with a song from a Broadway show —usually a classic. She did the same with Peter Duchin accompanying on the piano when she emceed the Living Landmarks gala, for years. The last speaker was Bruce Willis, who was especially somber because of the loss of his friend. He too told a story about Liz using her influence to help a project—in his case, helping his daughter sell Girl Scout cookies. She was nice to him; he never forgot it. It should be noted that she was like that with everybody. Liz was humanitarian through and through. She was a child of tabloidal/ Broadway/Hollywood media, the heiress to a well-populated list of 20th-
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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A century characters such as Walter Winchell, Dorothy Kilgallen, Ed Sullivan, Earl Wilson, and many more. With the single exception of the remaining veteran Cindy Adams, who is still turning it out for the New York Post, Liz Smith’s departure marks the ending of that brand (and style) of journalism, often referred to as gossip. Celebrity, fame, and fortune aside, hers was a real life with a cornucopia of one-on-one relationships on all levels. For many years, the core of her daily life were her assistants Mary Jo McDonough and Denis Ferrara, and the late St. Clair Pugh (who retired in
the late 1980s). They worked with her in her apartment (which was also her office) on Third Avenue and 38th Street. Denis, who now writes his own column for the NYSD, actually wrote Liz’s column for the last 20 years, including her last five years when Liz was published on the NYSD. Her work was her life. Her house was her office and therefore Liz Central. There were no dull moments but always momentum to keep the engine running, learning about the new, not forgetting the old, always keeping up with the world, with friends, with family, and getting the scoop. Liz explained it succinctly:
“Gossip is just news running ahead of itself in a red satin dress.” And then suddenly it was New York Fashion Week, which, speaking of, at Liz’s memorial, I was seated next to Marjorie Reed Gordon waiting for it to begin. Our conversation was reminiscing about Liz and how she started Literacy Partners with Arnold and Parker. Parker, it so happened had died just a couple of weeks before, pre-deceased by Arnold by a couple of years. Marjorie told me how she had worked for Arnold for a number of years as his vendeuse. Before Arnold, she mentioned she had worked
for Mainbocher. This aroused my curiosity. Although I knew nothing about him, I did know that Mainbocher (who died in 1976 at age 86) was regarded as the premier—and arguably the only —American couturier of a culture now faded to anonymity. Naturally, I asked what the man was like and what kind of business he had. He was born Main Rousseau Bocher in Chicago in 1890. From a working-class family, his father died when the boy was young and he had to leave school to go to work to help his mother support the family. His first love was opera and when he was in his early 20s, he moved to Paris to study. An obviously creative
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individual, he supported himself by doing fashion drawings of the couture shows for Vogue Paris. When he had finally been accepted by an opera company, on the night of his first performance he lost his voice, thus ending his dream. Nevertheless he stayed in Paris, continuing to work for Vogue and covering the couture shows with his drawings and reviews. By the 1920s, he was an editor and eventually the magazine’s editor-in-chief. In 1929 he decided he had learned enough about designing, along with guidance in “draping,” from Madeleine 46 QUEST
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Vionnet, one of the leading Paris designers between the two World Wars, to start his own business in Paris. He became a great success, catering to society and royalty until war broke out at the end of the ’30s, when he moved back to America and opened his business in New York. Marjorie Reed Gordon met him in the 1960s when she was fresh out of college and had applied for a job with him. His clients were among the best-dressed women in the world, including the Duchess of Windsor (for whom he made her wedding trousseau when she married the Duke). Mr. Bocher (now
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pronounced Bo-shay) was in fact the American couturier recognized internationally. A client had to be “accepted” by him. His fashions were classic. The workmanship was impeccable. All of his shows were private to the clients only—one at a time, no group shows. Diana Vreeland, Elsie de Wolfe, Millicent Rogers, Mrs. Cole Porter, Claudette Colbert, Syrie Maugham, Doris Duke, Adele Astaire, Kitty Miller, C. Z. Guest, Daisy Fellowes, Babe Paley, Vanderbilts, Mellons, Whitneys, Astors, Kennedys, even Broadway stars—such as Mary Martin, Ethel Merman, Tallulah Bankhead—were all
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devoted. He also was hired by Broadway producers to design the costumes for their biggest stars. His fashions were made to last. A book was kept on each client and every year, every season, they would come in one by one to add to their collections. Everything was quality, including the best fabrics. Each client had her own dummy so that everything was made to accommodate the individual’s figure precisely. His innovations were lasting—the strapless gown was his creation, as were the accessorized sweaters. Mr. Bocher, as he was known to his staff, finally retired in 1971
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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A when he was 81. Among Mainbocher’s clients was Mrs. T. Charlton Henry from Philadelphia. Born Julia Rush Biddle, married to a lawyer-yachtsman, the trim Mrs. Henry, Marjorie Reed Gordon recalled, used to come in wearing a lot of jewels. She looked the part of the ultimate society grande dame, making a formidable appearance. Three of her ancestors signed the Declaration of Independence, including her great-grandfather Benjamin Rush. Diane Arbus photographed her for LIFE magazine when she had been named to the Best-Dressed Hall of Fame. She was a very ambitious lady despite her
almost imperious appearance, trim and doll-like. She was fascinated by everything “from scuba diving to the moon race.” She grew up in a family conscious of sports and each day of her adult life she took an hour of exercise. “Some days you just have to make yourself do them. But it’s so attractive to look fit, don’t you think?” When jogging became popular, Mrs. Henry, who was then 82, became a devoted walker,
taking up the habit after she had Adolfo design a one-piece black knit jumpsuit for her to take her laps in style. “Well, it pays dividends,” she remarked about her newly acquired habit where most days she would walk and jog at least half an hour, sometimes longer, on the high school track 200 yards from her home in Chestnut Hill, Philadelphia. She averaged, she figured, about four miles. “The body needs care. Jogging is preventive
medicine. My age group all think I’ll drop dead.” The mother of two daughters, with seven grandchildren and six great-grandchildren, she added: “My daughters don’t jog. I’ve got fat nephews who won’t budge.” In her New York shopping visits, Mrs. Henry would take the train up to Penn Station, then walk up to Bergdorf’s to be there on time when it opened. Bill Cunningham was fascinated by her. “She’s so chic. And when she came into the store, she’d say: ‘Good morning, Miss Ida. Good morning, Miss Elizabeth.’ She knew everyone’s name.” Fashion is as Fashion does. u
P R E S E R VAT I O N S O C I E T Y O F N E W P O R T C O U N T Y H O N O R S I TS T R U ST E E S I N PA L M B E AC H
Mary Van Pelt with Earl and Elizabeth McMillen 48 QUEST
Kevin Clark and James Berwind
Monty Burnham and Jim Burress
Mary Shepard with Tania and Earl Smith, Jr.
Pierre and Kathy Irving
Susan Ross and Julie Warburton
C A P E H A RT
Elizabeth Leatherman and Katrina Gewirz
The Decorative After Miriam Schapiro
Works by MIRIAM SCHAPIRO and contemporary artists including SANFORD BIGGERS •JOSH BL ACKWELL•EDIE FAKE •JEFFREY GIBSON •JUDY LEDGERWOOD JODIE MACK •SARA RAHBAR •RUTH ROOT•JASMIN SIAN
museum of arts and design • JEROME AND SIMONA CHAZEN BUILDING • 2 COLUMBUS CIRCLE, NYC • MADMUSEUM.ORG Leading support for Surface/Depth: The Decorative After Miriam Schapiro is provided by Michele and Marty Cohen. Additional support is generously provided by The Coby Foundation, Ltd., Eric Firestone Gallery and The Estate of Miriam Schapiro, and Sharon Karmazin. Research for this exhibition was supported by a Craft Research Fund grant from the Center for Craft. Sponsor: Miriam Schapiro, The Beauty of Summer, 1973–1974. © 2018 Estate of Miriam Schapiro / Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York
D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A OPENING NIGHT FOR THE SAN FRANCISCO BALLET
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PA L M B E AC H Z O O â€™ S T R O P I C A L S A FA R I E V E N I N G AT T H E B R E A K E R S
Marcie Park Groller and Patrick Park 50 QUEST
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Alison Loehnis, Jamee Gregory and Helena Christensen
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C E L E B R AT I N G H AY W O R D A N D H O P P E R I N N E W YO R K
Sarah Rafferty and Mary Solomon
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Stephen Robson and Jodi van Pruda
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Meredith Townsend and Bill Blind 54 QUEST
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CR Lenox Residences, LLC (“Developer”) is developer of Canyon Ranch Living® in Lenox. This is not an offering of property in any jurisdiction where prior registration is required unless Developer has met such requirements. Sketches, renderings, graphic materials, plans, specifications, prices, terms, conditions and statements contained in this advertisement are proposed only, and Developer reserves the right to modify or withdraw any or all of same in its sole discretion and without prior notice. Actual improvements may vary from those shown and views may not be available from all Residences. Copyright © 2018 – CR Lenox Residences, LLC - All rights reserved. Each Office Is Independently Owned and Operated. Equal Housing Opportunity.
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Bob Wright, Jeff Smith and Brian Williams 58 QUEST
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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A N E W YO R K B OTA N I C A L G A R D E N â€™ S O R C H I D D I N N E R AT T H E P L A Z A
Alistair and Blair Clarke
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Tom Brandenburger, Anne Curtain and Janet Ross 60 QUEST
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Caroline Wamsler and DeWayne Phillips
Othon and Kathy Prounis
Russell and Anne Byers with Richard and Maureen Chilton
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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A
Adam Sheffer and Jean Sharf
Ward Blum and Ronnie Heyman
Alexander and Robbin Gaudieri
Phyllis and Bill Mack
Jane Holzer and Michael Wurzel
Tara Kelleher and Roy Zuckerberg
Sondra and David Mack 62 QUEST
Adam Weinberg with Judy and Leonard Lauder
Lynne Wheat and Thomas Peterffy
C A P E H A RT
N O R TO N MU S E U M O F A R T â€™ S A N N UA L G A L A I N PA L M B E AC H
Providing New Possibilities Vision loss can make it feel like the world is closing in. But with your support, Lighthouse Guild is expanding lifeâ€™s possibilities for our students, patients and families. Because of your commitment, people with vision loss gain clear guidance, coordinated care and a community of support so they can lead full and independent lives. We thank you for helping bring people the care they need. Please continue to support Lighthouse Guild so more people at risk for or affected by vision loss have access to the tools, technologies and treatments they need to navigate through life with confidence.
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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A H A N L E Y FO U N D AT I O N â€™ S D R E A MC AT C H E R D I N N E R I N PA L M B E AC H
Jan Cairnes and Dave Aronberg
CJ and Turner Benoit 64 QUEST
Inger Anderson, Kent Anderson and Samantha Cerny
Judy and Fritz Van der Grift
Joanie and Paul Van der Grift
Yardley Manfuso and Barbara Appleby
Clark Appleby, Franny Frisbie and Loy Anderson
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L I L A P H OTO S
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A Jewel on Hook Road - The perfect marriage of old and new! Circa 1862 Farmhouse with a sophisticated, modern addition. Stunning interior with slate floors, walls of crisp white, high ceilings and oversize windows. Long drive to four estate area acres with ornamental trees, level lawns, a Zen garden and phenomenal plantings. 70â€™invisible edge Swimming Pool. Radiantly-heated Cabana with Great Room, wet bar and luxurious Spa Bath. $1,699,000
Lindenwood- Visually stunning Country House with great warmth and
The Silo - Lovely Country Colonial connected to original grain silo. Rocking Chair Porch. Living Room with Fireplace. Formal Dining Room. Country Kitchen open to Family Room with Fireplace. Five Bedrooms. Gym. Silo with Media/Movie Room and Bath. Pole Barn with Recreation Room. Long drive to five beautifully landscaped acres overlooking scenic pond stocked with Bass. Heated Pool. Heart of North Salem. $1,395,000
A Modern Aesthetic - Clean lines, sophisticated style and incredible light. Walls painted in crisp white, high ceilings and bleached wood floors create the perfect palette. Stunning Country House on four, perfectly private acres. Capped by a windowed cupola, dramatic Great Room with stone fireplace and window walls. Sleek Kitchen. Deck for outdoor entertaining. Four Bedrooms.Long drive off of quiet Bedford lane.Incredible estate location. $1,350,000
scale. Wide board floors, graceful arches, wrought iron detailing and extensive millwork. Impressive Living Room with Fireplace, exposed beams and vaulted ceiling. Formal Dining Room with coffered ceiling. Wonderful Family Room open to Country Kitchen. Den. Five Bedrooms. Media Room with Fireplace. Game Room/Gym. Four beautiful acres with deeded lake rights. $2,595,000
English Cotswold - Reminiscent of old Europe. Stone and Stucco Pound Ridge Sophistication - Impeccable Contemporary Colonial. Country House surrounded by stone walls, terraces and tiered gardens. Sun-filled rooms with an easy floorplan. Four Bedrooms. Nearly three park-like acres with rolling lawns, water feature and firepit. Cut-leaf Maple, Iris, Ornamental grasses, Crabapple and Birch. Fish in the nearby Titicus Reservoir. Convenient North Salem location. $950,000
Two-Story Entrance Hall. Living Room with Fireplace and octagonal Seating Area. Library with French doors to Three-Season Porch. Formal Dining Room. Country Kitchen open to Family Room with Fireplace. Four Bedrooms. Rear deck and hot tub overlooking scenic woodlands perfect for summer entertaining. Over two private acres at the end of a quiet cul-de-sac. $849,000
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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A L I G H T H O U S E G U I L D â€™ S PA L M B E AC H A W A R D S D I N N E R AT C L U B C O L E T T E
Marc Rosen and Juliana Terian
Shining Sung and Mark Ackermann 66 QUEST
Jerry Seay and Pauline Pitt
Elizabeth and Amanda Meigher
James Dubin, Grace Meigher and Alan Morse
Kate Waterhouse and Wyatt Koch
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H A R RY B E N S O N
IT SEEMS LIKE YESTERDAY JAMES GALANOS has been called America’s premiere couturier. A perfectionist, perceptive, and aware, his designs are timeless works of art. And yet, he was an easy man to photograph. It was a fun shoot, an interesting assignment. As elegant as he was, there was an air of nonchalance that immediately made one feel completely at ease. I can understand why his famous clients called him Jimmy in a very endearing way. His manner was quite informal in contrast to his elegant demeanor, which was relatively formal by Los Angeles standards—note the two-tone spectator shoes reminiscent of a Fred Astaire film. When we made our way into his atelier workroom one day in 1985, Galanos pointed out the mannequins of his famous clients, including Nancy Reagan and Betsy Bloomingdale. He was Mrs. Reagan’s favorite designer—she wore a Galanos to both Reagan Inaugural Balls and for my photograph for the 1985 Vanity Fair cover. That same day, we drove around Beverly Hills looking for locations and ended up on the beach in Santa Monica where, over my objections, he stood in the surf in those elegant black and white spectator shoes for one last photograph. ◆ The American couturier James Galanos in his Los Angeles atelier in 1985. MARCH 2018 69
TA K I
BOOK REVIEW: A MOMENT IN TIME
Lord and Lady Lucan during the 1960s. Lord Lucan allegedly murdered their children’s nanny,
A MOMENT IN TIME reminded me of English women expatriates I met in the South of France more than 50 years ago. They were very proud of being British, never tired of telling us they were British, were rather broke, and talked down to average people. They spoke about Colonel so-and-so, or Lord and Lady so-and-so, some of whom were distantly related to them, or perhaps were just acquaintances. It also reminded me of characters in Separate Tables, Terence Rattigan’s brilliant play about snobby 70 QUEST
souls living out their rather desperate lives in a grubby seaside hotel back in the ’50s. Except that poor old now-dead-byher-own-hand Veronica Lucan does not in any way or form write like the great Sir Terence. She goes into detail about her everyday disasters in a very tiresome, methodical manner, like a benevolent Eichmann, listing all the bad things that have happened to her, and I must admit there have been many. She began life by being rather plain and having a rather beautiful sister,
Christina Shand Kydd, wife of Bill Shand Kydd, a hero of mine for his death-defying courage while on a horse, and for his bravery once reduced to being unable to move anything except his eyes following a riding accident. Veronica Lucan is not nice about her sister or her brotherin-law. The reason she gives is that the Shand-Kydds alienated her three chil-
Sandra Rivett (insert), in 1974. He has been missing since.
TA K I dren, who chose to live with them after their father, the infamous 7th Earl of Lucan, had mistakenly murdered their nanny, Sandra Rivett, instead of their mother. Needless to say, Veronica Lucan’s theory of blaming the Shand Kydds for alienating her children did not have many adherents, if any, except for herself. Brought up middle-class with army officers as grandfather and father, she begins her opus by listing the aristocratic connections and history of the man she married, a strange way of framing one’s life. She goes tiresomely on with teddies and dolls and their various names, until we finally get to the meat of the story. Which turns out to be how horrid life with Lucky Lucan was, rather than the murder. In this she is correct, because much too much has been written about that accidental killing of an innocent nanny, whom a drunken Lucan mistook for his wife and bludgeoned to death. After a detailed account of the night of the murder, she sums up her complaints about various doctors, judges, and relations, as well as her three children, who have chosen to live with their aunt or by themselves, away from her. She does it like an accountant listing one’s debts, without using adjectives. For example: “I think I have shown that my son decided he wanted to live as part of another family.” Proper middle-class anal retention to the last. Now here comes me, the reviewer: Three days before November 7, 1974, I was packing to fly to Athens when Lucky Lucan dropped in. I had known Lucky—he was given that name by John Aspinall for being so unlucky in games of chance—since 1962, when we met during the Cowes powerboat race. I was crewing on Agnelli’s boat when a cartoonlike mustachioed Englishman put-putted by and greeted us by saying, “See you in Tor—blub blub...” and sank right in front of us. We pulled him on board and he introduced himself as John Bingham. That evening, at a Max Aitken bash for drivers and crews, I began a
Veronica Lucan’s sister, Christina Shand Kydd, with her husband, Bill Shand Kydd. Lady Lucan blames the Shand Kydds in A Moment in Time for alienating her children after the murder.
long friendship with the future 7th Earl of Lucan. Lucan became a close friend— in fact, so much so that when I came back from Vietnam the second time, I brought back a jade ring for Veronica, a Greek custom. (One gifted the wife, not the man.) She used to stick her ringed finger in my face and go, “zzzzz...” Lucky may have looked like a cartoon character of an Englishman, but he knew his history. He lamented the loss of empire and predicted that England was going to hell. But always with a wintry smile and always with humor. When the marriage began to go bad, he told me how Veronica was able to sound perfectly normal when in court while he was trying to get custody of the kids, as she was “obviously crazy, and I’m very worried that she might harm the children.” That Veronica was strange was obvious. According to Lucky, she got worse following the birth of each child, and there were three. In her book Veronica lists the countless pills she was on: sleeping pills, uppers, downers, you name it. That night Lucky asked for 7,000 pounds, and I gave him 3,000—he needed cash—and guaranteed another four borrowed from my friend John Zographos. He hinted that he was going to kidnap the kids and take them to France. Veronica has a lot to say about the so-called “Aspinall set.” Most of what I read at the time and from the utter crap depicted in the various documentaries and films made of the tragedy proves that hell hath no fury like an excluded press. Veronica never got along with any of Lucan’s friends. She was mousy and
unpleasant, and people put up with her solely because they liked Lucky. She writes that she had a crush on Greville Howard, now Lord Howard, a cousin of the Earl of Suffolk, a fact that Veronica mentions ad nauseam. This must be news to Greville, who I think did a dry run with Lucky the night before the murder under the impression that Lucan would take the children to France. Speaking with friends, I surmise that Lucan got very drunk that fateful night, because only he knew what he was about to do. He felt let down by the courts and by the doctors who refused to commit her. Was she a danger to the children? I don’t think so. Was she a pain? Definitely. Was she jealous of her sister? One hundred percent. Was she a terrible mother? Yes. Had Lucky lied to her that he was a professional gambler before she married him? NO. She whined, badmouthed his friends, and complained nonstop, and does so in her book. All three of her children have grown up not only to be useful citizens but very nice people, although I know none of them. Did the Aspinall group plot to save Lucan if he ever showed up? A thousand times no; in fact, Aspers and Jimmy Goldsmith rang me in Athens and told me that if he appeared, to make sure I told him to “fall on his sword.” I liked the pictures that came with the book, but the whole thing made me sad—too many memories of very good times with Lucky and Aspinall, and Jimmy Goldsmith and Greville Howard. The author proved that her husband and the rest of us who thought she was a nutcase were right. She killed herself soon after she finished writing it because she thought she had Parkinson’s disease. She did not. u For more Taki, visit takimag.com. MARCH 2018 71
QUEST ARCHIVE: OCTOBER 1996
MARCH 2018 73
QUEST ARCHIVE: OCTOBER 1996
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P H OTO C R E D I T G O E S H E R E
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ALL ROADS LEAD TO 1000 NORTH
PALM BEACH COUNTY’S latest hot spot, 1000 NORTH, has that supremely casual attitude (with just a soupçon of swagger) that a pro golfer at the Masters exhibits when he is approaching the green—and his ball is about three feet from the hole. It’s no wonder: according to 1000 NORTH’S managing partner, Ira Fenton, Jupiter, the small sea town just north of Palm Beach that 1000 NORTH calls home, is also home to the most PGA players anywhere in the United States. To borrow founding partner Michael Jordon’s favorite sports metaphor, it 76 QUEST
is a slam-dunk that this cross between the Tribeca Grill and the 19th Hole was designed with golfers like “The Big Easy” Ernie Els and Jack Nicklaus in mind. This is definitely a destination restaurant, and—surprise!— there are two avenues of approach: U.S. Highway 1 by car or the Loxahatchee River by yacht, in which case you can tie up at their newly built 325-foot floating dock. Both offer an entrance to the Terrace—the al-fresco bar, lounge, and eating area (one of four separate dining sections, each with its own menu).
N A N C Y E LL I S O N
BY NANCY ELLISON
CANTEENS If you have just wandered off your yacht in your Bermudas, feel free to hang for a while, enjoy a cocktail and the view, and dine on prime hamburgers while watching the boats going up river. However, if you feel like heading inside for the real dining experience, be prepared to change into a jacket (no tie). Indoors, in the Tavern and Restaurant, executive chef Lee Morris has had a grand time creating a modern American menu that is spiked with the most unexpected Charleston-inspired dishes. How lucky we were that founding partner and friend Patrick Park arranged for us to sneak in for a tasting feast. “Try the perfectly prepared Pittsburgh Wagyu steak,” he advised us.
stocked secluded bar, and your very own private chef, Troy Sheller, whose petite kitchen offers its own unique menu, including the most sublime Ibérico de Bellota Black Label Jamon—the most exclusive in the world. Acorn-fed and intensely sweet in taste, according to our chef, this singularly pampered pure-bred Black Iberian pig can trace its registered lineage back 500 years, and was given (by Spanish law) its allotted space of two football fields to roam about freely before being hung out to dry for at least two years. Like caviar and white truffles, it is among the most expensive food products on the market. (Jamon Ibérico de Bellota Bone-In shoulder can be
That sounded wonderful; however, we allowed the gracious Chef Morris to serve us his favorites: She-Crab Soup; Bourbon and Hay-Roasted Oysters; Bigeye Tuna Poke; Beet and Blackberry Salad with Goat Cheese; Yellow Wedge Grouper; Superior Farms Grilled Lamb Chops; Mocha Chocolate Cake with Chocolate Ganache; and Vanilla Ice Cream. Upstairs, the intimate, by-invitation-only Club Lounge offers the perfect space to smoke a cigar on the terrace while enjoying a romantic view of the Jupiter Light House, a fully
purchased for $1,393.50.) Membership certainly has its perks. Our evening at 1000 NORTH was a perfect evening in every way, including the expected celebrity sighting: “Broadway Joe” Namath, dining with friends. No paparazzi in sight; nor will there be. u This spread: Scenes and food at 1000 NORTH, Southern Florida’s latest hot spot, helmed by executive chef Lee Morris (opposite page). 1000 NORTH: 1000 North U.S. Highway 1, Jupiter, Fla.; 561.570.1000. MARCH 2018 77
Fresh Finds BY DA N I E L C A P P E L LO AND ELIZABETH MEIGHER
WE WELCOME MARCH not only for the turn of weather, but
also because it marks our annual Spring Style Issue—which always gets us in the shopping mood. This season, we’re into bright hues for day, versatile neutrals for evening, and a touch (or more) of blue for him. It’s time to think about getting away, so get ready to pack your bags with some of these suggestions.
Try on these Kenneth Jay Lane Multicolor Coral Seed Bead Parrott Clip-On Earrings for your next trip to paradise. $85 at Saks Fifth Avenue stores or saksfifthavenue.com.
Color is the way to go, especially in the hands of Carolina Herrera, like the designer’s sleeveless A-line dress for spring. $2,590. Carolina Herrera: 954 Madison Ave., 212.249.6552.
Shield your eyes in style with these finely crafted, shapely shades from Boucheron. $1,020 at us.boucheron.com.
You’re sure to sing the praises of J.McLaughlin’s Aria Wicker Satchel, perfect for parties or to carry day-trip essentials. With bamboo handle and loop closure. $178 at jmclaughlin.com.
Manolo Blahnik’s Maysale in denim fabric is a perfect fit for all of this season’s occasions. $745 at Bergdorf Goodman.
Banish the winter blues in Ralph Lauren’s blue cotton-blend sweatshirt ($395) and basketweave top coat ($1,995), with garment-washed trouser ($695). At select Ralph Lauren stores.
Earn your rank by sporting a pair of Ray-Ban’s latest introduction, The Colonel. This stylish and versatile pair of sunglasses is available for $178 at ray-ban.com.
It’s wheels up with Rimowa’s Salsa Air Cabin MW suitcase, in a handsome shade of blue. $495. Visit rimowa.com for store locations and availability.
Channel your inner artist in Stubbs & Wootton’s Pollock Men’s Slipper, inspired by the abstract expressionist Jackson Pollock. $495 at stubbsandwootton.com.
Bonterra Organic Vineyards’ 2015 Merlot has an elegant and restrained style with harmonious structure and balance, soft tannins, and a long finish. $16 at bonterra.com.
Palazzo–Seven Bridges, one of the luxury residences by GL Homes (from the high $400,000s to $2,000,000 at glhomes.com). Also: Seven Bridges–Boca/Delray Beach; Valencia Bay–Boynton Beach; Dakota–Delray Beach; Berkeley–Boca Raton. MARCH 2018 79
Fresh Finds When in Greenwich, be sure to stop by Betteridge to
Bid adieu to winter for
consider this estate Van Cleef & Arpels ruby and
good with an escape to Casa de Campo
diamond cluster necklace, mounted in 18-kt. yellow
in the Dominican Republic. For current packages
gold and platinum. $179,000. Betteridge:
and to reserve, visit casadecampo.com.do.
239 Greenwich Ave., 203.869.0124.
Slip into Dennis Basso’s Spring/Summer 2018 hand-embroidered nude slip gown. $5,900. Dennis Basso: 825 Madison Ave., Earn a smooch by gifting Vhernier’s
elegant Kiss ring in 18-kt. rose gold. $6,150. Vhernier: 783 Madison Ave., New York City, or 140 NE 39th St., PC 104, Miami.
Add a touch of global eclecticism to your home with this large beige Istanbul print Fortuny pillow at Linda Horn, in luxurious velvet. $245 at lindahorn.com.
She’ll adore it: the J’adior It Sandal in calfskin with “Christian Dior J’adior” woven multicolor bracelet and handmade tassels. $850. Dior: At Dior boutiques and 800.929.Dior.
Travel in style in the Travelette by Belgian Shoes—perfectly breezy in olive Belgian linen and natural trim. $350. For this and similar styles, visit belgianshoes.com.
Discover a new take on musk with Diptyque’s latest launch: Fleur de Peau, out this month for $155 per bottle. Visit diptyqueparis.com for more and to purchase.
Monoorecchino Rana by Italian designer Fabio Angri. Inspired by nature, this frog ear clip in tsavorite garnets, diamonds, and 18-kt. gold ($23,000) is available exclusively through Lusso by Fabio Angri: 908.400.0969 or lussobyfabioangri.com.
Sankaty Road custom monogrammed French basket. From $139 at Leta Austin Foster Boutique: 64 Via Mizner, Palm Beach, 561.655.7367.
Now’s the time to lock in your next vacation—at Villa Hawks Bill on Turks & Caicos, complete with a gym and tennis court. For more information and to reserve, visit wimco.com.
Get a fresh start for spring by stepping out in Tory Burch’s Maisie dress. $548. Tory Burch: 797 Madison Ave. (212.510.8371), 129 Fifth Ave. (212.777.2226), or toryburch.com.
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S A R G E N T A R C H I T E C T U R A L P H OTO G R A P H Y
THE ACCESSORIES MAKE THE INTERIOR BY ANN LOYND IT’S A GOOD TIME to be Gil Walsh. This spring, her design firm will move into a new office on Palm Beach’s antique row, where it will be in good company with favorite shopping destinations—like Mecox Gardens, James & Jeffery Antiques, and Heath & Company, to name a few. After several years of explosive business, the firm simply outgrew its 3,000-square-foot space and will be relocating to much roomier digs. That growth can be attributed in part to Walsh’s status as a preferred designer for the new Mandarin Oriental luxury residences in Boca Raton as well as One Dalton, a luxury residential project in Boston. Additionally, the A sitting room in Palm Beach, designed by Gil Walsh Interiors, borrows inspiration from the region’s tropical climate, featuring an eclectic mix of bright patterns grounded by a sisal rug and a layout that highlights the homeowner’s antique collection and a sunny waterfront view. MARCH 2018 83
in a grouping, and beautiful Pixel table lamps. Walsh says that although those pieces can be copied (unlike, say, an original Hans Wegner sofa), her clients are more concerned with good design and, most importantly, how an item will look inside their home. If lighting is the room’s jewelry, then artwork is the gorgeous scarf or handbag. “Art is integral to the interior design process,” Walsh says. “What a room is about is, first of all, good architecture. Second, its furniture we can sit on. If we didn’t have to sit, I’d just have great architecture and great art.” In line with her views on antiques, Walsh notes that all artwork doesn’t have to be Blue Chip: “We have some clients who are buying on that level but some who just want really lovely pieces and aren’t choosing to buy art as an investment.” In the local art scene, Walsh admires the work of Chris Leidy (Lilly Pulitzer’s grandson), Carmelo Blandino, and Ellen Liman, who are all known for their use of color. This comes as no surprise if you’ve seen the designer’s first book, Gil Walsh Interiors: A Case for Color, which illustrates how Walsh infuses color into spaces through artwork, rugs, and textiles. Still riding the success of the monograph, the designer reveals another book may be in the works, noting, “We’re compiling as we speak.” Get ready for more perfectly accessorized spaces. u
CO U RTE S Y O F S A R G E N T A R C H I TE C T U R A L P H OTO G R A P H Y ( I N T E R I O R S ) ; J A M E S I N FA N T E ( A N T I Q U E S )
designer is seeing an increase of projects in her home state, with many people relocating permanently to Palm Beach for the quality of life. Bottom line: Palm Beach design is booming. Walsh recently collaborated with the Cultural Council of Palm Beach to create an exhibit for designers. On view now at the Council, the Art & Decor exhibition pairs eight artists with eight interior designers, curated by Walsh. The show reflects the area’s rich art and antiques culture, which is right in line with the firm’s new location. “Antique Row has been there for a long time, but it’s growing and growing. There are chic spots opening from design studios to resale shops, plus the antique stores keep coming,” she explains. “It has a bohemian feel to it.” That cocktail of old and new is what gives the designer’s spaces such dimension and interest. “[Antiques] are what make a room really special,” Walsh says, noting that lighting is a particularly popular way to incorporate a one-of-a-kind piece and add a finishing touch. “It’s the jewelry in the room.” Always in search of that special “jewelry,” lighting was top of mind for the designer at January’s Winter Antiques Show in New York City. She was particularly impressed by the offerings at the James Infante booth, which included a chandelier by Italian studio Ghiro, starburst chandeliers hung
This page, clockwise from top left: A sitting room designed by Walsh in North Palm Beach incorporates an Americana color palette and nautical-themed accents; the designer was enamored by the CJ Weinstein Starburst Chandeliers in James Infante’s booth at the 2018 Winter Antiques Show; sweeping ocean views and the designer’s signature use of color define this North Palm Beach dining room. Opposite page: “Art is on the walls and on the floor,” Walsh says, exemplified by this Jupiter, Florida, living room the firm designed, with its complementing Pop Art aesthetic on the rug and framed artworks.
WHEN YOU COME ACROSS Charlotte Kellogg’s boutique in charming Via Amore along Worth Avenue, the story behind the clothing is as beautiful as the pieces themselves—luminous silks in easy-to-wear styles, staple pants, one-of-a-kind cashmere scarves and cocktail accessories that are exotic and fit the Palm Beach lifestyle effortlessly. These garments are the result of years of curating relationships not only with local South Floridian production resources, but also overseas fabric mills and small, artisan operations from Nepal to Paris. Creating a clothing line is no small undertaking: it requires both tasteful design and the ability to create well-crafted products. Fabric quality, careful patternmaking, fit, and execution can make a garment either exquisite or clumsy, and it takes a skilled designer to balance these factors. What’s more, resources in the garment industry are not highly accessible, but this is exactly where Charlotte has excelled. Charlotte has turned curating her resources into a lifestyle; she travels extensively and combines personal travel with the search for local specialties, materials, and objects to bring back to her stores. In addition to splitting her time between Palm Beach and Newport, she frequents the fabric shows in Paris, spends time in New York and Los Angeles, and is often jumping on a plane to Kathmandu or Hanoi. Charlotte designs according to local traditions: she produces, to name but a few, hand-block-printed tunics in Jaipur, cocktail jackets from vintage wedding sarees in Udaipur, cashmere and silk printed sweaters with matching scarves in Kathmandu, and charmeuse evening slacks in Hanoi. She also produces many of her garments—including all of the pants and linen blouses—locally in South Florida, and is currently featuring locally woven tapestry cocktail jackets in her boutiques. Each season, Charlotte introduces new colors for her Cotton Stretch and Silk Stretch Pants, and coordinates them with new prints on T-shirts and printed linen blouses. She also changes the colors each season for her taffeta blouses and carries just about every color possible of Dupioni pants. She does a good number of small production runs of printed sheath dresses, cocktail jackets, and pants, skirts, and shorts. Her talent for design keeps customers coming back, while her penchant for travel is what keeps them looking fresh. u Charlotte Kellogg: 256 Worth Ave. (561.820.2407) and 332 South County Rd. (561.820.2402), Palm Beach, Fla.; 184 Bellevue Ave. (401.846.3011), Newport, R.I. 86 QUEST
T H I S PA G E : CO U RTE S Y O F C H A R LOT TE K E LLO G G A N D J AC Q U E L I N E C U S H I N G ; O P P O S I T E PA G E : CO U RTE S Y O F L I LY M O O R E
THE EYE HAS TO TRAVEL
FA S H I O N
This page: A model in Charlotte Kelloggâ€™s hand-block-printed Quilted Jacket, produced in India, with Long Silk Stretch Pants, produced in South Florida. Opposite page, from above: The designer Charlotte Kellogg in one of her Silk Manshirts; an artisan screen-printing cashmere scarves in Kathmandu, Nepal; the storefront of Charlotte Kellogg Boutique on Worth Avenue, in Palm Beach.
S E RV I C E
DR. JOSEPH NEWELL, clinical associate professor at the University of Pennsylvania School of Dental Medicine, now practices on the Upper East Side of Manhattan. His work is focused on the highest quality dental material available today: gold. Why gold? Cast gold and gold foil dental restorations are considered the finest restorations in dentistry for many reasons. Gold is the healthiest, longest-lasting material available and is still considered the best. Dr. Newell has extensive training in gold restorative procedures with consideration for aesthetics and the least display of gold. Dr. Newell focuses his practice on gold restorations because gold is the standard by which all other dental materials are measured. Gold contributes to better health; it’s the least inflammation-inducing material. Gold is permanent; it’s the longest lasting dental material available. Gold is conservative; the least amount of tooth structure needs to be removed when placing a gold restoration. Most importantly, gold does not corrode and has the closest coefficient of expansion to tooth enamel. Gold moves with the teeth so the seals stay intact, contributing to their longevity.
Dr. Newell has trained in the field of cast gold and gold foil restorations for many years. He is a current member and past president of the American Academy of Gold Foil Operators and a current member and president-elect of the Academy of Richard V. Tucker Cast Gold Study Club. As a clinical associate professor at the University of Pennsylvania School of Dental Medicine, he trains pre-doctoral students in all phases of restorative dentistry. Dr. Newell also maintains a private office in Center City, Philadelphia. He has been married to his wife, Maureen, for over 36 years and they have two children. He has been active in his church and community for years, and his most enjoyable times were as a little league coach. It was this experience that gave him the inspiration to teach and train aspiring dentists—he wanted to be a role model for his children and students, and give back to the profession that has given him so much. u Dr. Joseph Newell’s New York office is located at 121 East 60th Street, #6B, on the Upper East Side. To book appointments, call 212.207.3853 or email firstname.lastname@example.org. For more information, visit newelldentistry.com.
CO U RTE S Y O F N E W E LL D E N T I S T RY
THE GOLDEN DENTIST
Dr. Joseph Newell has been serving patients for over 35 years and recently opened an office in Manhattan. His unique area of expertise is gold dentistry. Gold is the highest quality dental material available today.
THE GARRIGUES GALLERY BY ANN LOYND PALM BEACH–BASED interior designer Jennifer Garrigues’ first love may be design, but art is a very close second. Lucky for her, the universe has been painting her an artful 2018, starting with this month’s Art & Decor showcase for the Cultural Council of Palm Beach. The exhibition pairs leading designers with local artists to create one-of-a-kind vignettes, on display now through May 12. Garrigues was matched with Luis Montoya and Leslie Ortiz, a local duo specializing in bronze sculpture and large-scale paintings. “My vignette is very clean and minimalistic—what we really wanted to do is showcase the art of Luis and Leslie,” the designer explains. “We didn’t want to have too much chitter chatter in the background.” Garrigues worked with Montoya and Ortiz to curate pieces for the vignette, opting for bronze sculptures featuring a woman in a canoe and large shells along with up-close fruit paintings that “make your mouth water.” To maximize impact in a small space, the designer chose geometric shapes (like a spherical drum table) and layered metals like copper and bronze. Flanking the coffee table are a pair of Mid-century chairs decorated with purple python pillows with a beaded trim, all situated on a large faux zebra throw rug. “The object was to keep it very clean and uncluttered, and not to take away from the artwork,” Garrigues notes. “It’s a twist for me because I usually add quite a few 90 QUEST
accessories, but this is the first time I didn’t want to—it looked so good!” For a small touch of jewelry, on opening night, the designer scattered votives for ambiance. Earlier this year, Garrigues was assigned another art project. Seen in January’s Art & Culture magazine, the designer was tasked with creating a table setting using an artist or era as inspiration. “I chose Rothko for his use of bright color,” she explains. “It looked rather fun if I say so myself!” Always joking that she should have her own gallery, it stands to reason that Garrigues has been drawn to these artful endaevors. “I’ve run out of space in my house! It’s ridiculous—I’m always racking my brain as to where I can fit another piece,” she laughs. “Art is very much a part of your personality and the way you portray yourself in your own home.” With clients ranging from seasoned collectors to first-time buyers, Garrigues works with each one to find the right assortment for their space. “We’re not into matching the sofa, but we are into having a cohesive collection,” she says, adding that one of her favorite pastimes is to take clients on a tour of local galleries. “We have wonderful galleries [in Palm Beach], a mixture of very modern to Impressionist paintings to photography.” Now, Garrigues is working on three Florida-based projects. “We’ve got our work cut out for us,” she says. “But they all love art, thank goodness!” u
Artwork by Luis Montoya and Leslie Ortiz anchors Jennifer vignette for the Art & Decor showcase, featuring oil-on-wood paintings Cantaloupe Slice and Honey Dew Slice, a bronze sculpture from their Las Emprendedoras Series, and the All Aboard! shell sculpture (below and at left).
PLANTATION PANACHE AN AVENUE OF ANCIENT live oaks, their branches clothed in resurrection ferns and Spanish moss, leads to the two-story brick house that is the heart of Mulberry Plantation. Built in 1714 by royal governor Colonel Thomas Broughton, the third oldest house in South Carolina is situated on a high bluff overlooking the former rice fields on the Cooper River. What makes the house unique are the square one-room pavilions known as flankers that stand at each of the four corners of the building. They all have bell-shaped roofs topped with weather vanes that are some of the earliest known ironworks done in the United States. Broughton named his plantation for the mulberry trees he planted in hopes of creating a silk industry, but when that enterprise failed, he turned to raising rice instead. Cuttings from the original tree were taken by the present owners and are now growing on the plantation. 92 QUEST
After belonging to a series of owners, Mulberry was purchased in 1915 by Clarence Edward Chapman, who made extensive renovations while leaving the building, a blend of Georgian styles, unchanged. By the time the Historic Charleston Foundation acquired the 800-acre plantation in 1987 in order to save it from development, the place was in a considerable state of disrepair. The following year, New Yorkers Gail and Parker Gilbert bought Mulberry and set about restoring it to its former splendor. Gail and Mark Hampton, longtime friends of the Gilberts, This spread, clockwise from top left: The Mulberry Plantation was built in 1714 by royal governor Colonel Thomas Broughton; stunning views of the Colonelâ€™s former rice field off of the patio; stretching acreage from the front of the main house; centuries-old oak trees are covered with resurrection ferns and Spanish moss.
P H OTO G R A P H S CO U RTE S Y O F P L A N TAT I O N S E RV I C E S
BY CAROLA LOTT
This page, above to below: A greenhouse offers year-round gardening; the stately main house features bell-shaped roofs and weather vanes inscribed with the year the estate was built; the
kept the pieces of 18th-century Charleston furniture that had been left by the Chapmans and combined them with comfortable chairs and sofas upholstered in cheerful fabrics. As a result, what one sees today is a relaxed and cozy house. Because the four bedrooms and two baths in the main house were not enough for their children and grandchildren, let alone weekend house parties, the Gilberts turned to architect Jacquelin Robertson to design a guest house. It has a large double-height living room with two fieldstone fireplaces and three bedrooms and baths, two opening off an upper gallery. The Gilberts also restored the gardens that were originally created for the Chapmans by Charleston landscape architect Loutrel Briggs. The gardens at Mulberry are among the few of Briggsâ€™s designs that remain today. In addition, Gail turned the laundry yard into a formal potager to provide fresh flowers and vegetables for the house. In 1991, the Gilberts added the 900-acre South Mulberry plantation to the property. With the help of local architect Glenn Keyes, they turned the derelict building that had served as a duck-hunting club into an attractive and comfort-
P H OTO G R A P H S CO U RT E S Y O F P L A N TAT I O N S E RV I C E S
den features original 18th-century furniture.
This page, above to below: Plants grown in the greenhouse decorate the living room; the property is situated on the Cooper River; the area is particularly revered for duck hunting, boasting a variety of species like ring neck, teal, gadwall, and wigeon.
able house. The family also added an elegant greenhouse for year-round plant life. Still, the duck shooting at Mulberry is unequaled. At dawn, ducks—which have roosted overnight on the northern lakes—arrive in flights so large they are almost unbelievable. Mulberry’s dove and turkey shooting are also exceptional. When the Gilberts bought Mulberry, they immediately donated the historic preservation and conservation easements on the house and the surrounding 800 acres to the Historic Charleston Foundation. Three years later, when they acquired South Mulberry, they donated a conservation easement on its 900 acres to the Lord Berkeley Conservation Trust. These easements, only 30 miles from the city of Charleston, were among the first in the historic Cooper River corridor, and established an important precedent for conservation in the area. All together, Mulberry is a great property to entertain guests, enjoy the outdoors, and spend time with multiple generations of family. u MARCH 2018 95
R E A L E S TAT E N E W YO R K PA L M B E A C H W E S T C H E S T E R L O N G I S L A N D N E W YO R K PA L M B E A C H W E S T C H E S T E R L O N G I S L A N D
NO END IN SIGHT FOR THE BULL MARKET B Y B R O O K E K E L LY
AS THE BULL MARKET continues to roar, we check in with some of our most trusted brokers for their latest thoughts on the state of the real estate market. And, according to our top agents, who hail from Premier Estate Properties as well as Sotheby’s and its affiliates Julia B. Fee and Daniel Gale, there’s no indication of change anytime soon. Some markets seem insulated from downward turns—like New York, which is always a hotbed of transaction. Elsewhere, from the sunny shores of Palm Beach to the quiet and tony suburbs of Manhattan, our experts walk us through their unique markets, show us what makes them tick, and provide a glimpse into some of their most exciting properties. Our readers may very well discover the home of their dreams. 96 QUEST
R E A L E S TAT E
CATHY TAUB Sotheby’s International Realty / 917.855.8466 /email@example.com
S OT H E BY ’ S I N TE R N AT I O N A L R E A LT Y
Q: What is unique about Sotheby’s International Realty? A: Sotheby’s is the only brand with instant name recognition globally. The brand is synonymous with luxury—the finest properties both in real estate and art. There is impressive quality control within the brand, both with respect to the presentation of our listings and the experience and quality of the Sotheby’s agents. Sotheby’s has the most visited real estate website in the world, and clients like to stay “within brand,” knowing they will be well taken care of.
fun—no matter what someone is interested in, there’s always something to do. Demographics support the fact that all generations, not just millennials, are more inclined to live in an urban environment. Thus with demand continually growing and a finite amount of real estate, smart money continues to bank on investing in the most exciting city in the world. Q: What kind of properties are people drawn to right now? A: New development has been hot for more than a decade and remains so, as buyers love brand new finishes and amenities. For relative value, buyers who don’t need the flexibility afforded by condominiums (such as the ability to rent) and who qualify to pass co-op boards can reap the relative affordability of co-ops vs. condos.
Q: We’re about 10 years into a historically long business cycle. Do you expect the bull market to continue? A: I’ve been selling real estate in New York City for more than 15 years now and I’ve always been bullish on the market. That’s because even in down markets, when consumers are less confident, in New York there are always transactions and we’ve always recovered. That said, 2017 was more of a buyers’ market, and for those buyers willing to commit, there were some great buying opportunities. As for 2018, there are early signs of increased activity and consumer confidence. Q: Why is New York City an ideal place to buy? A: New York City is endlessly stimulating, fascinating, and
40 East 67th Street in New York, New York; $14,500,000.
MARCH 2018 97
WESTCHESTER WESTCHESTER WESTCHESTER
R E A L E S TAT E
WESTCHESTER WESTCHESTER WESTCHESTER
HOLLY MELLSTROM Julia B. Fee Sotheby’s International Realty / 914.224.3867 / firstname.lastname@example.org
Q: What kind of properties are people drawn to right now? A: Our buyers appreciate homes that are open, bright, and renovated. They want a big open kitchen and a home office. Another frequent request is a first floor bedroom and full bath. I specialize in southern Westchester, where many are commuters, so being close to the train station is a plus. Q: Tell me about some of your prized listings. A: I currently have some very special homes listed. One is at 328 Cliff Avenue in Pelham. It’s a 7,000 square-foot former embassy, now a private home, with nearly an acre of private property and a location near the town shops, restaurants, and train station.
Q: We’re about 10 years into a historically long business cycle. Do you expect the bull market to continue? A: It is pretty early in the year, but all signs look positive to a bull market this spring. Our clients look to us as market “readers,” and savvy pricing in any market is key to an effective sale. Q: Why is Westchester an ideal place to buy? A: Whether you like the city or the country, both are 30 minutes away! I was happy living in Manhattan, but have never looked back in my 20 years of living in Pelham, which is the first town in Westchester just over the New York City border.
328 Cliff Avenue in Pelham, New York; $2,850,000.
J U L I A B . F E E S OT H E BY ’ S I N TE R N AT I O N A L R E A LT Y
Q: What is unique about Julia B. Fee Sotheby’s International Realty? A: We are one of the largest and most successful Sotheby’s International Realty affiliates worldwide, and focus on showcasing some of the most beautiful and iconic homes in Westchester and Connecticut, using the most advanced custom technology tools to connect the buyer and seller. And we do it quicker and smarter than anyone else. It’s a progressive, forward thinking company. Our connections with our international partners are healthy and strong.
LONG ISLAND LONG ISLAND LONG ISLAND
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JAMES RETZ Daniel Gale Sotheby’s International Realty / 631.423.1180 / email@example.com
DA N I E L G A LE S OT H E BY ’ S I N T E R N AT I O N A L R E A LT Y
Q: What is unique about Daniel Gale? A: I believe that Daniel Gale Sotheby’s International Realty is among a handful of companies that remain truly iconic anywhere in residential real estate today. Our greatest desire is to use our skills, intelligence, experience, and influence to create perfect possibilities for people whether buying or selling homes throughout Nassau and Suffolk Counties, Queens, the North Fork and Westhampton Beach. 2017 was our best year (since 1922). Ever.
rail, access to major airports, bridges, tunnels and ferries, and about 110 miles bordered by ocean beaches and the Long Island Sound. Centuries old communities offer picturesque villages and towns, urban and suburban neighborhoods, Long Island’s Gold Coast, farms, golf course communities, and, of course, the North Fork and the Hamptons. Q: What kind of properties are people drawn to right now? A: Everything. When demand exceeds supply, it’s a question of what’s available. However, people tend to prefer homes that have been tastefully updated and include large, open spaces for a more contemporary, carefree, lifestyle. They want to live the way they feel when they’re on vacation.
Q: We’re about 10 years into a historically long business cycle. Do you expect the bull market to continue? A: Residential real estate is heavily impacted by several different factors. Location is where it all begins and many of the communities serviced by our 27 sales offices have close proximity to New York City. Financial markets continue strong, unemployment is about as low as it gets, and changes in our tax laws have been somewhat nebulous so far. A scarcity of inventory will continue to drive our business and I have no reason to forecast anything but a bull market. Q: Why is Long Island an ideal place to buy? A: We have choices you just don’t find elsewhere. Commuter
37 Piping Rock Road in Locust Valley, New York; $5,600,000.
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JIM MCCANN Premier Estate Properties / 561.655.5559 / firstname.lastname@example.org
Q: What is unique about Premier Estate Properties? A: I have known the owner brokers of Premier Estate Properties for 25 years. As a white-glove boutique firm, they do an excellent job responding to the needs of their clients in the markets they serve. Premier Estate Properties prompts the success of each individual agent in the firm and is also the Christie’s International affiliate in each of their six Florida offices.
with income tax so we see more people looking into relocating to Palm Beach. The town retains its resort feel, but it’s image as a place to retire has shifted to a year-round vibrant community with a much younger demographic. Q: What kind of properties are people drawn to right now? A: Newly built homes done with a sense of style seem to be at the top of buyers’ preferences, as many want “instant gratification.” The north end of the island is in favor with many younger families who enjoy the beach and the lake trail. At the same time, many are drawn to the 1920s and 1930s iconic architecture of Mizner, Volk, etc., and these estate homes enjoy high demand for their historic appeal.
Q: Why is Palm Beach an ideal place to buy? A: Palm Beach is one of those unique places in the world that offers safety, beautiful climate, and small town feel with international sophistication. The real estate on the island is a very limited commodity and more people than ever are vying for their “piece of paradise” here. Domiciling in Florida is attractive to those who reside in states
152 Dolphin Road in Palm Beach, Florida; $7,595,000.
P R E M I E R E S TATE P RO P E RT I E S
Q: We’re about 10 years into a historically long business cycle. Do you expect the bull market to continue? A: As a real estate broker, I am an eternal optimist. I won’t pretend to be an expert on the equity markets, but I am bullish about the long-term trend for appreciation of Palm Beach real estate.
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CRISTINA CONDON Sotheby’s International Realty / 561.301.2211 / email@example.com
Q: What is unique about Sotheby’s International Realty? A: Sotheby’s International Realty is an international brand with a vast global footprint; the brand operates in 69 countries and does over $95 billion in annual sales. Our globally recognized brand creates a powerful advantage through our media partnerships and our network. Also, our affiliation with Sotheby’s auction provides unique marketing collaboration opportunities that help us reach the most discerning buyers in the world.
Q: What kind of properties are people drawn to right now? A: Waterfront, whether it be on the ocean or Intracoastal, is always in high demand as well as new construction and fully renovated homes. Q: Tell me about some of your prized listings. A: 271 El Vedado is a landmarked home located in the estate section with very special historical features and gracious living areas. It is truly a Palm Beach gem. 1960 South Ocean Blvd. is an ocean-to-lake property, also located in the estate section, with about 274 +/- feet on the Atlantic Ocean and the Intracoastal. Sprawling lawns and spacious outdoor loggias surround the residence designed by renowned designer Pablo Molyneaux. u
S OT H E BY ’ S I N TE R N AT I O N A L R E A LT Y
Q: We’re about 10 years into a historically long business cycle. Do you expect the bull market to continue? A: Although we do not have a crystal ball, the market at present continues to be very strong. Why is Palm Beach an ideal place to buy over other warm weather destinations? A: Palm Beach is a unique small community located on a pristine island with gorgeous beaches along the Atlantic Ocean and close proximity to three international airports. It is the ideal retreat or permanent home for those looking for a warmer climate and the ability to enjoy outdoor activities all year long.
271 El Vedado Road in Palm Beach, Florida; $10,000,000.
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On March 15, the Frick Collection will host its Annual Young Fellows Ball at 8:30 p.m. This year’s “Virtue & Vice” themed event will feature cocktails and dancing in The Frick Collection’s Fifth Avenue Beaux-Arts mansion. For more information, call 212.547.6844.
MAN AND WOMAN
The Leukemia & Lymphoma Society’s Palm Beach chapter will kick off its 10-week Man and Woman of the Year fundraising competition with a celebration at The Gardens Mall in Palm Beach Gardens. For more information, call 561.616.8682.
Mar-a-Lago at 11 a.m. Big Dog Ranch Rescue is a leader in the national animal welfare movement, through compassionate, innovative rescue practices, and transformative educational programs. For more information, visit bdrr.org. A COUNTRY AFFAIR
The Arc of Palm Beach County will host its Diamond Jubilee Cowboy
Ball at the Four Seasons Palm Beach. For more information, call 561.844.1778, ext. 33.
The Alzheimer’s Drug Discovery Foundation will hold its Premiere Women’s Luncheon at Club Colette at 12 p.m. The event will feature speaker Jane Seymour. ADDF’s mis-
PRESERVING PALM BEACH
The Preservation Foundation of Palm Beach will host its annual dinner dance at 7:30 p.m. Proceeds will support efforts to preserve the architectural and cultural heritage of Palm Beach. For more information, email skearns@palmbeach preservation.org.
The Big Dog Ranch Rescue will hold its Wine, Women, Shoes, and Dogs luncheon and fashion show at 102 QUEST
The Daughters of the American Revolution will host its Henry Morrison Flagler chapter dinner at the Chesterfield Hotel at 6 p.m. DAR is a non-profit organization for women who are directly descended from a person involved in the United States’ efforts towards independence. For more information, call 561.251.4955.
The UJA-Federation of New York will hold a summit for women at the TimesCenter at 12:15 p.m. The event will feature nearly 20 inspiring female thought leaders, innovators, and risk-takers who share their passion and goals for bettering the world. For more information, call 212.836.1239.
The Society of Four Arts will thank its major dinner dance donors over a cocktail reception in Palm Beach. For more information, visit fourarts.org.
DOGS, WINE, AND FASHION
A REVOLUTIONARY DINNER
A SUMMIT FOR WOMEN
TOASTING MAJOR DONORS
sion is to accelerate the discovery of drugs to prevent, treat, and cure Alzheimer’s, related dementias, and cognitive aging. For more information, visit alzdiscovery.org.
On April 9, the Kips Bay Boys & Girls Club will host its President’s Dinner at Cipriani 42nd Street. The event attracts New York’s most prominent interior designers and social influencers annually. For more information, visit kipsbay.org.
CALLING YOUNG FELLOWS
The Frick Collection will host its Annual Young Fellows Ball at
8:30 p.m. This year’s “Virtue & Vice” themed event will feature cocktails and dancing in The Frick Collection’s Fifth Avenue Beaux-Arts mansion. The Ball is attended each year by approximately 600 of New York City’s most socially prominent young individuals. For more information, call 212.547.6844.
The Winterthur Museum, Garden, and Library in Delaware will showcase its first-ever outdoor exhibition: “Follies: Architectural Whimsy in the Garden!” A needle’s eye in a pond, a Greek temple in the garden, and an Ottoman tent sitting on a hill are just a few of the exhibition’s inspirations. For more information, visit winterthur.org.
COKTAILS AND BITES
The International Society of Palm Beach will hold a cocktail reception at the home of Janet and J.J. Cafaro. For more information, call 561.832.4200.
CULTURE AND COCKTAILS
The American Humane Hero Dog Awards will take place at The Breakers at 11:30 a.m. The annual nationwide competition celebrates the powerful, age-old bond between dogs and people, and gives recognition to courageous acts of heroism performed by our four-legged best friends. For more information, visit herodogawards.com.
The Little Opera Theatre of New York will present the premiere of Johann Adolph Hasse’s Piramo e Tisbe through March 25, in collaboration with New Vintage Baroque. For more information, visit lotny.org.
Hôpital Albert Schweitzer Haiti will host its Annual White Hot Night Haiti gala at the Sailfish Club at 6:30 p.m. The night’s chairs are
On March 9, the Preservation Foundation of Palm Beach will host its annual dinner dance at 7:30 p.m. For more information, email firstname.lastname@example.org. Tom Quick and Kristen Kelly Fisher. Attendees are encouraged to don white attire, and proceeds from the event will help improve public health and quality of life in Haiti. For more information, visit hashaiti.org.
The Annual MorseLife Golf Classic will commence at 7:30 a.m. at the Trump International Golf Club in Palm Beach. The event will begin with breakfast, followed by a shotgun start, and awards luncheon in the afternoon. The organization aims to provide exceptional health care, housing, and supportive
services to seniors in Palm Beach County. For more information, visit morselife.org.
THE FUTURE OF POLO
The Polo Training Foundation will hold a Sip and Shop event at J.McLaughlin in Palm Beach. The charity’s purpose is to establish and administer a series of funds to support polo in collegiate or scholastic sports curriculums, promote international goodwill through polo competition, and encourage development and sportsmanship through teaching young people the principles of the game. For more information, visit polotraining.org.
The Cultural Council of Palm Beach County will host a cocktail reception at the Colony at 5 p.m. The event will feature speeches delivered by Daniel Biaggi and Beth Clarke. For more information, call 561.472.3330.
Mounts Botanical Garden will hold its 20th Annual Spring Benefit in Palm Beach at 5:30 p.m. Proceeds will benefit the garden, the oldest and largest public botanical garden in the Palm Beaches. For more information, visit mounts.org.
BOYS & GIRLS
The Kips Bay Boys & Girls Club will host its President’s Dinner at Cipriani 42nd Street. The event attracts New York’s most prominent interior designers and social influencers annually. For more information, visit kipsbay.org.
On April 8, Mounts Botanical Garden will hold its 20th Annual Spring Benefit in Palm Beach at 5:30 p.m. Proceeds will benefit the garden, the oldest and largest public botanical garden in the Palm Beaches. For more information, visit mounts.org. MARCH 2018 103
AN ARMARIUM ENSEMBLE AT THE COLONY HOTEL
PRODUCED BY ELIZABETH MEIGHER PHOTOGRAPHED BY CHRIS SALATA OF C APEHART PHOTOGRAPHY HAIR AND MAKEUP BY IVETTE GIL OF IVETTE GIL BEAUTY DESIGN
“JOIN THE ARMI!” proclaims designer ready-to-wear rental service Armarium. Co-founded by CEO Trisha Gregory and creative director at large Alexandra Lind Rose, Armarium officially launched in April of 2016 through an invite-only mobile app, e-commerce platform, and a New York City showroom. Lind Rose is a former fashion designer, and Gregory oversaw public relations at Salvatore Ferragamo (North America) for nearly a decade. Gregory understands the power of a good outfit. “For years, we’ve talked about how hard it is to find statement pieces from the runways to wear to events or even to dinner with friends,” she says. “That’s when we started thinking about how we could solve this issue…and the idea for Armarium was born.” Today, Armarium stands as the premier online destination for styling and luxury fashion rentals, curated with top fashion brands (for example, a $5,000 Marchesa dress can be rented for an evening for $500). The program offers members the opportunity to borrow pieces from a skillfully curated lineup of couture, ready-to-wear, and accessories, as well as the option to hire one of Armarium’s professional stylists to assist with day-of dressing needs. Dubbed the style brigade, Armarium’s roster of 104 QUEST
experts includes Meredith Melling, Valerie Macaulay, Siobhan Bonnouvrier, and Karla Martinez de Salas. To get the word out, Armarium hosts pop-up shops across the country—one of which recently took place at Palm Beach’s legendary Colony Hotel. Hosted by Armarium ambassadors Binkie Orthwein, Elisabeth Munder, Bettina Anderson, Whitney Bylin, and Armarium “style brigade” stylist Katherine Lande, the occasion offered Palm Beach fashionistas the chance to access Armarium’s impressive roster of luxury brands, including looks from the Spring/Summer 2018 collections of Naeem Khan, Missoni, Pucci, and Roberto Cavalli. The Colony Hotel served as the ultimate spot for Armarium’s pop-up Style Lab, with its ideal location steps away from the luxury shopping along Worth Avenue and its reputation for Hollywood glamour. (Frank Sinatra and Judy Garland are among its well-known guests.) Since 1947, The Colony Hotel has served as a beloved Palm Beach landmark, hosting U.S. presidents, European royalty, winter season snowbirds, and the world’s most discriminating travelers. As The Colony turns 70, the property is unveiling a fresh point of view under new owners, Andrew Wetenhall (whose father was the hotel’s
Binkie Orthwein, wearing an Armarium emerald green gown designed by Alexis Mabille, flashes a playful grin as she expertly juggles apples at check-in at The Colony. MARCH 2018 105
This page: Elisabeth Munder smiles and sways in The Colony Hotelâ€™s sweeping driveway as the fringe on her Armarium dress, designed by Missoni, blows in the breeze. Opposite page: Katherine Lande, wearing an Armarium dress designed by Mugler, makes her way down a path toward The Colonyâ€™s iconic pool bar.
restaurant is a favorite for delicious cuisine and to see and be seen while being surrounded by polo murals and memorabilia. Opposite page: Whitney Bylin wearing a dress from Armarium designed by Alexis Mabille.
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This page: Serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner, The Colonyâ€™s Polo
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Above: An Armarium squad, all dressed in brightly colored looks from Armarium. Katherine Lande (in an Alexander Wang dress), Binkie Orthwein (in an Alexis Mabille dress), Bettina Anderson (in an Alexis Mabille dress), and Elisabeth Munder (in a Missoni dress) in the lobby of The Colony Hotel. Left: Armarium co-founders Alex Lind Rose and Trisha Gregory at the launch party for Armarium’s mobile application in 2016, held at 583 Park Avenue in New York City. To rent from or hire Armarium, visit www.armarium.com. 110 QUEST
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principal owner from 1970 to 1990) and Sarah Wetenhall. This year, The Wetenhalls are infusing newfound energy and vitality into The Colony by offering patrons an array of experiences that reflect Palm Beach life today. Guests are able to enjoy new and innovative luxuries, such as complimentary bespoke bicycles, morning yoga by the pool, the latest beach amenities, wellness retreats, and exciting activities for children. What’s more, The Colony’s newly minted Guest Relations Department is now available to assist in booking golf, tennis, fitness, or any
Alex Lind Rose guides a rack of Armarium looks down one of the banana leaf carpeted hallways of The Colony. She wears a yellow floral dress from Armarium, designed by Marchesa.
Brianna Mahler takes one of The Colony Hotelâ€™s basket bicycles for a spin, dressed in an Armarium look designed by Alexis Mabille.
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other whim. The property has also introduced a number of creative partnerships, including one with New York City–based Voltz Clarke Gallery, which debuted new works from Natasha Law in the hotel’s gallery. Additionally, images photographed by the acclaimed photographer Landon Nordeman, who served as The Colony Hotel’s artist in residence in January of 2018, will be featured in Nordeman’s upcoming exhibit, “Personalities of Palm Beach,” on March 29. The Colony will also be unrolling several groundbreaking fitness and wellness retreats, partnering with fitness gurus and top-tier instructors for patrons focused on health and well-being. u
This page, above: The Colony Hotel’s vibrant outdoor pool area (the pool is shaped like the state of Florida). Below: The Colony Hotel’s pink British Colonial exterior, lit up at night.
BY ELIZABETH MEIGHER
“Style is very personal. It has nothing to do with fashion. Fashion is over quickly. Style is forever.” So said renowned fashion designer Ralph Lauren, an icon of style himself. In the following pages we celebrate Quest’s favorite arbiters of that tricky, five-letter term kown as “style.” Their sense of it has endured throughout the years, and will continue to do so for many years to come. 114 QUEST
This page, clockwise from top left: Chuck Pfeifer, Richard Johnson, and Taki Theodoracopulos; Slim Aarons captures the “Kings of Hollywood”—Clark Gable, Van Heflin, Gary Cooper, and James Stewart—at a New Year’s Eve party at Romanoff’s in Beverly Hills, 1957; Pilar Crespi seated outside the villa of Contessa Ida Matarazzo in Rome, holding a book and wearing Valentino’s flannel pantsuit, 1971; Winston Lapham at The Player’s Club in New York City; Harold Stirling Vanderbilt, the inventor of the card game “contract bridge,” behind the wheel of Ranger, the legendary J-boat and three-time America’s Cup defender.
T H I S PA G E : E D W I N LE V I C K / H U LTO N A R C H I V E / G E T T Y; PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N . O P P O S I TE PA G E : G UY B O U R D I N
Opposite page: A photo for Bulgari jewelry as seen in Vogue, 1961.
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This page, clockwise from top left: Peter O’Toole, photographed by Bob Willoughby in 1962 at The Beverly Hills Hotel, just after making Lawrence of Arabia; Deeda Blair at home in Washington, D.C.; Bunny Mellon and husband Paul Mellon at Rokeby Farm in Virginia, 1971; Nicole du Pont Limbocker and husband Derek Limbocker stand on either side of their debutante daughters, Hilary Dick and Ridgley Brode, in New York, 1984; Fleur Cowles and Perle Mesta sitting on an 18th-century boiserie (a gift from Margaret Biddle in Paris) in Look magazine’s offices, 1975. Opposite page, clockwise from top: Porfirio Rubirosa with his wife Odile Rodin and Anne Slater at the Johansson-Patterson fight, 1961; Wendy Vanderbilt Lehman shot by Slim Aarons, 1964; Ande Phipps, Hilary Geary Ross, Barbara Bancroft, Nan Kempner, and Pauline Pitt walking on West 39th Street, New York, 1991, captured by Mary Hilliard; Princess Diana (wearing John Galliano) and Liz Tilberis, revered editor of Harper’s Bazaar, arriving at The Metropolitan
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Museum of Art’s Costume Institute Ball in 1996.
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This page, clockwise from top left: President John F. Kennedy and Jackie Kennedy
with friend and future sister-in-law Maria Sole Agnelli; Cheryl Tiegs poses with with jockey Laffit Pincay at the Santa Anita Race Track in California, 1971. Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Mona von Bismarck and Jacques de la Beraudiere in 1938; Virginia Burke and Jorie Kent attend The Society of Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Centerâ€™s 21st Annual Preview Party; Jane Birkin poses in fire engine red platforms, 1960s; Emilia Fanjul at Saks Fifth Avenueâ€™s Mommy & Puppy Tea; Michael Canfield and Jacqueline Bouvier enjoying tennis week at the Newport Casino, 1955; Princess Grace of Monaco and her daughter Caroline attend a party celebrating 1930s Harlem. 118 QUEST
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aboard Coast Guard yacht Manitou in Newport, R.I., 1962; Lauren Santo Domingo sports a Burberry trench and Salvatore Ferragamo Vara ballet flats; Marella Agnelli
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STABLE STYLE MEETS CITY CHIC BY DANIEL CAPPELLO PHOTOGRAPHED BY SARA KERENS
This spread: Free x Reinâ€™s Moto Equestrian Bodysuit in black/gray with the Signature Ponte Riding Pant in tan.
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This page: Free x Rein’s Elite Equestrian Bodysuit in navy blue on the city streets. Opposite page: The Elite Equestrian Bodysuit in white (above); Free x Rein’s founders, Andrea Hippeau Vogel and Dana Schwartz (below).
SOME GIRLS LOVE horses, others love fashion—and many love both. Luckily, there’s Free x Rein, a sleek new clothing line perfect for all of them. Created for women by women, Free x Rein is the brainchild of entrepreneurs and horse enthusiasts Andrea Hippeau Vogel and Dana Schwartz. Designed to transition from the office to the barn, Free x Rein, a direct-to-consumer line, offers a solution for women with a passion for horses who struggle to find classic yet versatile riding gear at an attainable price point. It combines the best in hightech and sustainable fabrics with classic equestrian silhouettes. With materials sourced around the world—from Italy to Japan, India to the United States—Free x Rein is manufactured at a small, family-owned factory in New York City. Here, Quest sits down with Vogel and Schwartz to talk about their new niche brand. Q: When did you fall in love with horses and things equestrian? AV: My first carousel ride, when I was four years old. My parents got me riding lessons for my sixth birthday, and the rest is history. DS: My parents signed me up for riding camp when I was six. Between being around such loving animals, the fun I had riding, and the sense of community at the barn, I was hooked. Q: What about fashion? AV: I would not consider myself a “fashionista.” I like clothes and to dress well, but I’d much rather have one outfit that takes MARCH 2018 123
me from day to night. I’m always on the hunt for that “uniform” I can throw on and know I am going to look good in—which is a big reason why we started Free x Rein. DS: From the time I can remember, clothing and fashion were my self-expression. I used to mix the most outrageous prints and styles together. Who could blame? It was the ’90s! As I grew older, I certainly wasn’t the model-body type, and I took a lot of pride in finding clothing that made me feel and look beautiful without being a slave to trends. Q: How did Free x Rein come about? AV: Over three years of long car rides between the barn and the city. . . We were so frustrated with the synthetic fabrics and unflattering cuts of riding apparel, not to mention that it was
impossible to transition to or from city life. We didn’t think there was anything we could do about it until a beautiful woman in her 30s told us that she was riding with Spanx under her breeches— imagine going for a jog wearing Spanx!—and we decided we had to take matters into our own hands. Q: What sets your collection apart? AV: We have the first-ever equestrian bodysuit, so that is definitely unique. We adapted the bodysuit that we all know and love in our fashion lives for equestrian sport. DS: We incorporate the best aspects of equestrian apparel with street-wear fashion. Free x Rein is for both women who ride and those who appreciate equestrian style. You no longer have to be Jackie O. to wear posh riding apparel. Q: What has your sport taught you? AV: Being a competitive equestrian at any level teaches you resilience. One day you can be in the winner’s circle and the next day literally on the ground. It is one humbling sport. The same sort of ups and downs come with being an entrepreneur. We know when to celebrate our wins—and when to put our heads back down to work. DS: Perseverance. Horseback riding is filled with ups and downs. You could train for weeks on end and then, in the ring, your horse could buck you off. It teaches you not to give up on the hard work because the payoff of having a successful partnership with a horse and a great round is the most gratifying feeling in the world. u
This page: Free x Reinâ€™s Elite Equestrian Bodysuit in white. Opposite page, clockwise from lower left: The Moto Equestrian Bodysuit in black/gray; the Derby Riding Pant in Sunday white; the Derby Riding Pant in Sunday white with the Sportfit Equestrian Bodysuit in white/fuchsia (at left), and the Derby Riding Pant in Wellington tan with the Elite Equestrian Bodysuit in white (at right). MARCH 2018 125
This page: Free x Reinâ€™s Signature Ponte Riding Pant in black with the Moto Equestrian Bodysuit in black/gray. Opposite page: The Moto Equestrian Bodysuit in white/black with the Derby Riding Pant in dark beige.
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This page: An evening set designed by Norman Norell— crafted from cashmere, silk jersey, and sequins, circa 1958—is on display at the Museum at FIT. Opposite page: Norell pictured with models wearing his signature sequin “mermaid” gowns.
AMERICA’S BALENCIAGA BY DANIEL CAPPELLO AND ANN LOYND
P H OTO G R A P H BY M I LTO N H . G R E E N , CO U RT E S Y O F F I T
This page and opposite page: On display in the new book Norell: Master of American Fashion (Rizzoli) and at the Museum at FIT, the designs of Norman Norell, including his signature shirtwaist dresses, tailored suiting, and sequined evening wear, became the definition of American glamour during World War II and in the decades that followed. The designer’s penchant for couture detailing and functional, comfortable
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fashion earned him the nickname “America’s Balenciaga.”
“IN THE SPAN of 40 years (from the early 1930s to ’70s), Norman Norell helped reshape American fashion, creating pieces that were both beautiful and comfortable—a duality that was largely unavailable to women of that era. Now, nearly 50 years after his death, Norell is having a moment. In tandem with the release of Norell: Master of American Fashion (Rizzoli), a coffee-table book written by Jeffrey Banks and Doria de la Chapelle detailing the designer’s esteemed career and creations, the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology (MFIT) is displaying “Norell: Dean of American Fashion.” The exhibit, on view now through April 14, contains approximately 100 ensembles and accessories from the stellar private collection of Kenneth Pool. Daywear—including clean-lined suits, jersey shirtwaist dresses, and his signature sailor dress—are shown along with Norell’s famed evening wear. The juxtaposition is in line with the designer’s stance that “women can never be too simple during the day nor too elaborate at night.” Still, even Norell’s evening gowns were noted for their clean lines and comfort. His glittering mermaid gowns, adorned with thousands of handsewn sequins, were crafted from knitted jersey cut with rounded necks and a variety of sleeves. Norell hoped that his necklines “helped women dress more simply.” Wool jersey was the base of many of the designer’s creations, like his signature color-blocked shirtwaist dresses, a stark contrast to the splashy day dresses of the period. In the early ’40s, World War II fabric restrictions forced him to be thrifty with yardage. Emulating his favorite period, the 1920s, Norell created lean, narrow silhouettes inspired by the Jazz Age (decades before his Parisian couture counterparts popularized the chemise). Luckily, sequins were not made of metal and therefore not subject to restrictions. Function was a benchmark for all of Norell’s designs. In Norell: Master of American Fashion, he is quoted saying, “When I design, I never start with the neck and finish with the hem; I design from the head to the sole.” Just as in men’s clothing, pockets and buttons were always functional, but, of course, beautifully finished. Norell’s work became synonymous with American glamour, employing sleek and sophisticated silhouettes in exceptionally detailed construction that rivaled European couture houses. Though he would deny the comparison, Norell
This spread, at right: Norman Norell’s Donegal tweed tailleur with dirndl culottes made headlines in his 1920s-inspired collection, Fall 1960. Above: Currently on display at the Museum at FIT, the designer’s
was called “America’s Balenciaga” for his ability to tailor couture practices to American tastes. In his heyday, Norell’s designs were adored by an A-list clientele that included Babe Paley, Jacqueline Kennedy, Lena Horne, and Marilyn Monroe, and his designs made appearances in films like A Sainted Devil, That Touch of Mink, and The Wheeler Dealers. His legacy lives on today in vintage designs that are loved by movie stars and the likes of former first lady Michelle Obama. Thanks to Rizzoli, it also lives in the form of a beautiful book, in which Ralph Rucci writes, “And, this is what we have: a tradition of excellence, a legacy with no conclusion in sight, just the perfection known as Norell.” u 132 QUEST
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wool suiting borrowed inspiration—and functionality—from menswear.
PALM BEACH PREP STYLE BY DANIEL CAPPELLO
J.McLaughlin shows off its current
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spring looks in the stylish enclave of Palm Beach. This page: A trip to Sant Ambroeus Palm Beach is made complete in J.McLaughlinâ€™s Rosario Jacket, Lois Shirt, Jaycie Jean, and Madison Ankle Strap Sandal. Opposite page: The Signature Tee, Tally Cardigan, Peggie Short, and Aria Bag for her (at left); the Bedford Top and Palisades Skort for her (at right). MARCH 2018 135
This page, from top left: Hanging out in front of Buccan Palm Beach, home of Clay Conley’s inventive American cuisine, in J.McLaughlin’s Jamey Cashmere Sweater, Lois Shirt, and Lexi Jean; taking a break at Sant Ambroeus in J.McLaughlin’s Clarence Dress, Rosario Jacket, and Madison Ankle Strap Sandal; Palm Beach’s SurfSide Diner takes coffee-stop food to the next level.
CO U RTE S Y O F J . M C L AU G H L I N / S Q U I R E F OX
LIKE A VINTAGE Slim Aarons photo come to life, Palm Beach seems to exist untouched by the progress of time. With its Mediterranean Revival– and Spanish Colonial Revival–style architecture, pristine streets and avenues, and leafy palms dotting the landscape every step of the way, it’s this country’s answer to the French Riviera. The sun-kissed set has long held sway on this enchanted island, and for however much they may keep things new and vibrant with shopping, culture, and the evolving sport of socializing, one thing remains forever steadfast in this town: the sense of style. And J.McLaughlin, with its storefront at 225 Worth Avenue, is no exception to that rule. Long an arbiter of casually elegant American prep, J.McLaughlin was made for Palm Beach. The brand offers a consistent set of staples that men and woman rely upon for wearing from the business meeting to the plane, from the boardroom to the beachside dinner party. The clothes are always appropriate, but never lacking in inventiveness: throwback prints in bold new colors, sweaters for him and dresses for her in bright preppy pastels, playful bow ties to punch up a standard blue-blazer look. This month, to showcase their latest spring fashions, J.McLaughlin set out to photograph iconic places and moments in Palm Beach—all in signature J.McLaughlin style. “What I love about Palm Beach is that you get all of the sophistication of New York—from food to fashion—but you get it with sunshine and palm trees,” Kevin McLaughlin, the co-founder and current chief creative officer of the fashion label, tells me. “It’s a place that helps me relax but also offers constant stimulation. You can ride a bike anywhere or linger over coffee at a lunch counter and never be more than a block or two from the beach. I am always impressed by the vibe of the town and I am pleased with the backdrop it provided for our March collection.” u
This page: Thereâ€™s no better way to start a Palm Beach day than over the paper and a cappuccino and pastry at Sant Ambroeus, especially when dressed for the occasion in J.McLaughlinâ€™s Carnegie Shirt, Taylor Pant, and Caerus Belt.
Current spring fashions from J.McLaughlin. This page, from top left: The Mulberry Blazer, Signature Tee, Lexi Jean, Nolita Thong Sandal, and Zoe Bag for her; the Carnegie Shirt, Luke Sweater, and Oliver Short for him, and the Bella Blouse, Postcard Scarf, Margot Pant, and Victoria Bag for her; the iconic clock tower at the entrance of Worth Avenue in Palm Beach. Opposite page: The Jenn Top and Masie Pant
CO U RTE S Y O F J . M C L AU G H L I N / S Q U I R E F OX
for her; the Gramercy Shirt and Oliver Short for him.
K E L LY
THE YOUNG & THE GUEST LIST BY BROOKE KELLY Black Panther director Ryan Coogler with the filmâ€™s stars, Chadwick Boseman and Michael B. Jordan.
Clockwise from top left: Former model Tyra Banks with Danielle Herrington; Montana Tucker, Ashley Haas, and Lisa Ramos at the Cinema Society’s after-party at The Skylark; Denzel Washington; Gina Gershon, Fisher Stevens, and Lexi Stevens in their seats at the Museum of Modern Art; sisters Paris Hilton and Nicky Hilton Rothschild.
THE CINEMA SOCIETY’S PREMIERE FOR BLACK PANTHER
PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N
I HAD NO DOUBT the premiere of America’s most anticipated
film of 2018 would attract some of the most celebrated names around the globe. A star-studded crowd, including Chadwick Boseman, Lupita Nyong’o, Michael B. Jordan, and the film’s director Ryan Coogler, poured into the Museum of Modern Art on February 13 for a special screening of Marvel Studios’ Black Panther. The room was filled with passion, pride, and enthusiasm throughout—the film has been likened to a movement rather than simply a motion picture. With a black direc-
tor, predominantly black cast, and off-the-charts critic reviews, this cultural movement is monumental for the African American community. Not even a lack of seats could stop people from getting a glimpse of the lengthy feature, with many choosing to sit on the floor to see the film. Other guests included Denzel Washington, Chris Rock, Nicky Hilton Rothschild, Paris Hilton, Gayle King, Gina Gershon, Whoopi Goldberg, Tyra Banks, and Mischa Barton. Many enjoyed the Cinema Society’s legendary after-party at The Skylark. MARCH 2018 141
Willem Dafoe mingling at a table; Saoirse Ronan was a nominee for Best Actress for her leading role in Lady Bird; Margot Robbie, another nominee for Best Actress for her role in I, Tonya, and friend at the Grey Goose after-party at the Soho House in London.
▲ GREY GOOSE’S BAFTA FILM AWARDS PARTY
▼ RALPH LAUREN’S RUNWAY SHOW
THE BRITISH ACADEMY of Film and Television Arts welcomed
AS ALWAYS, RALPH LAUREN’S New York Fashion Week runway
the industry’s biggest stars for the annual BAFTA Awards in London. Many notable attendees donned black dresses in support of the Time’s Up movement against sexual harassment. Among the supporters were Margot Robbie and Saoirse Ronan, who were both in the running for Best Actress for their roles in I, Tonya and Lady Bird, respectively. The two stars attended Grey Goose’s exclusive after-party at the newly renovated Soho House for cocktails and beats by Jax Jones. Other notable attendees included Willem Dafoe, Isabelle Huppert, and Jason Isaacs.
show was a scene. The Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear presentation, a tranquil Jamaican retreat inspired by Lauren’s home in Montego Bay, was attended by Katie Holmes, Hilary Swank, Kate Bock, Olivia Palermo, and more. All eyes were glued to the runway as models like Bella Hadid showcased the designer’s new, laid-back island collection featuring florals and fresh island motifs across a color palette of crisp whites and hues of blue. Lauren was aiming for a special experience that shared “the mood, the light, the blue and white freshness of [his] retreat in Jamaica.”
Left to right: Lauren Bush Lauren sporting one her iconic FEED bags with David Lauren and Hilary Swank; Bella Hadid wearing a dress that reflects the carefree spirit of the show as she walks down the runway; Rachel Brosnahan and Katie Holmes sitting front row. 142 QUEST
G E T T Y; B FA
Left to right: Actress Isabelle Huppert and actor
Clockwise from top left: Presley Gerber at the Pepsi Generations campaign kick-off event on February 2; Jamie Foxx and G-Eazy in the Lumber Exchange Building for night two of Tao’s pop-up series; Rachel Platten, Dak Prescott, and Cindy Crawford at the Pepsi event at Nicolett Island Pavilion; Josephine Skriver at Tao’s pop-up on February 3; Nick Foles holds his daughter Lily in U.S. Bank Stadium after the Philadelphia Eagles beat the New England Patriots in Superbowl LII.
G E T T Y; A P I M A G E S
SUPERBOWL WEEKEND IN MINNEAPOLIS THE SUPERBOWL ALWAYS guarantees a parade of incredible parties leading up to everyone’s favorite sporting event. This year’s Super Bowl LII was held in Minneapolis, and fans from all over the world flew in to see the Patriots and Eagles battle it out at U.S. Bank Stadium, and some even came just to enjoy the parties that preceded the game. On Friday, February 2, Pepsi toasted the unveiling of this year’s Generations campaign with a pop-up experience at Nicolett Island Pavilion. The campaign aims to shed light on Pepsi’s rich history in pop culture through the decades,
and encourage customers to live a loud and enjoyable life. At the event, Cindy Crawford and Jeff Gordon spoke briefly about their experiences shooting influential Pepsi commercials in the past, before everyone enjoyed hors d’oeuvres, cocktails, and a live performance from LOCASH. Later that evening, many fled to the Tao Group’s party with Barstool Sports at the Lumber Exchange Building, just one event out of their three-night popup. Throughout the weekend, Tao’s series attracted celebrities like Rick Ross, Lil Jon, G-Eazy, and Josephine Skriver. u MARCH 2018 143
Clockwise from top left: El Greco’s Cardinal Fernando Niño de Guevara, circa 1600; cherubs on Dolce & Gabbana’s SS18 runway; a 1999 evening gown by Gianni Versace; Saint Peter, painted by a follower of Lippo Memmi in the 14th century; a look from Valentino
CATHOLIC COUTURE AS THE COUNTRY becomes less religious (according to Pew Research, there were eight percent fewer Christians in the United States in 2014 than in 2007), fashion is growing more devout. Among the most avid “worshipers” are Dior, Versace, Balenciaga, Valentino, Dolce & Gabbana, and Saint Laurent, all of whom presented looks with religious undertones on recent runways. They will also be on display at the Costume Institute’s upcoming Spring 2018 exhibition at The Met, titled, “Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination.” The thematic exhibit will feature a conversation between fashion and religious art, pitting couture creations against papal robes and accessories from the Vatican. “Fashion and religion have long been intertwined, mutually inspiring and informing 144 QUEST
one another,” says Andrew Bolton, curator in charge of the Costume Institute. “The focus is on a shared hypothesis about what we call the Catholic imagination and the way it has engaged artists and designers and shaped their approach to creativity, as opposed to any kind of theology or sociology,” he told the New York Times. “Beauty has often been a bridge between believers and unbelievers.” Believers in fashion won’t want to miss this unprecedented collection, which includes everything from a Chanel wedding gown inspired by a communion dress to couture Valentino gowns influenced by monk’s robes. Opening May 10, it will span three galleries and nearly 60,000 square feet at both The Met and—fittingly—the Cloisters. —Ann Loynd
COURTESY OF RESPECTIVE DESIGNERS; METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART
couture FW 17-18.
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Published on Mar 1, 2018