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QUENCH MAGAZINE FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017 DISPATCHES FROM THE GREEN ISLAND × 20 DISCOVERING THE BEAUTY AND CULINARY HERITAGE OF THE AZORES. BY TOD STEWART SPARKLES × 23 FRANCE, ESPCIALLY CHAMPAGNE, MAY BE PUSHED OUT OF THE TOP RANKS OF THE SPARKLING GAME. BY TREVE RING IT’S TIME TO FOCUS × 26 IS BC’S SPARKLING OBSESSION A SIGN OF A MATURING INDUSTRY? BY TIM PAWSEY
33 44
TOUGH QUESTIONS × 30 IS EXPENSIVE WINE WORTH IT? FOR SUCH A SIMPLE QUESTION, IT REALLY IS A TOUGH ONE TO ANSWER. BY MICHAEL PINKUS HOME GROWN × 33 AN AWAKENING IN ITALY’S FRIULI REGION. BY GURVINDER BHATIA OUT OF STATE × 36 WHY ARE SO MANY IN THE NEW WORLD PLANTING CLASSIC ITALIAN GRAPES? BY MICHAELA MORRIS HASTA BE PASTA × 40 SIMPLE, YET COMPLEX, PASTA IS MORE THAN JUST FLOUR AND SAUCE. BY DUNCAN HOLMES BE YOUR OWN CHANGE × 44 QUENCH TALKS TO MARK BRAND, ONE OF CANADA’S FOREMOST SOCIAL-IMPACT ENTREPRENEURS. BY JOANNE WILL
DEPARTMENTS MISE EN PLACE × 47 DON’T YOU SOMETIMES WISH THAT EVERYTHING IN LIFE WAS IN ITS PROPER PLACE. BY NANCY JOHNSON NOTED × 49 EXPERTLY-TASTED BUYING GUIDE OF WINES, BEERS AND SPIRITS FROM AROUND THE WORLD.
IS HONG KONG A MODEL FOR THE WINE MARKET IN ALBERTA? × 64 ALBERTA, AND THE REST OF CANADA, HAVE A LOT TO LEARN FROM THIS SMALL REGION. BY GURVINDER BHATIA WHAT I AM THANKFUL FOR × 66 I WANT TO REFLECT ON WHAT I AM GRATEFUL FOR IN THE WORLD OF WINE. BY TONY ASPLER
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 3
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“I enjoy reading the enlightening and informative articles you guys print in your magazines. They are interesting pieces of nourishment for the mind, pulling back the veil and revealing what goes on behind the scenes. My only concern is that the more we know about certain topics, for example, cocktails or wine, the more restrictive we become in our approach to these things. For example, in Tod Stewart’s piece, ‘Masterclass’ [Dec/Jan 2017], he talks about the martini with an expert who gives pointers about what’s ‘right’ and what’s ‘not’. I realized a few days after reading the article that I was analyzing so called martinis at restaurants and bars, and scoffing. As if I know any better. So while I look forward to discovering more about what goes on behind the scenes, I will also try to keep my mind and palate open to new and inventive takes on the classics.” Joshua Wilson, email “Huge beer fan here! Just writing in to say a big thank you for the beer tasting notes you guys include in every issue. I’ve found more than a few new trusty favourites (and got to introduce a few friends to them as well). Looking forward to trying out new ones.” Chris Morrison, Victoria
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I SOMETIMES FEEL AS IF CANADA IS A BIT BEHIND THE BALL. OR MAYBE WE ARE JUST SLIGHTLY BEHIND THE TIMES. I know, I feel left behind.
As someone who seems to be the most curious person in the room, I am always looking for something new to entice me. Make that thing local and I am even more interested. I am the most unapologetic localvore you’ll ever meet.
4 × @QUENCH_MAG × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
So I’ll scour markets and artisan shops looking for new flavours to excite. I’ll see jams from Ontario, confectionary from the east coast, bearded hipsters from the west coast — that’s an import I can live without. All manner of Canadian items can be had. But the last place I’ll go for local is my liquor board store. I’d like to say that this was limited to Quebec, but it’s not. This is a country wide issue. We often talk about a maturing of the Canadian wine market —not to mention beer and spirits. Yet we are tied to arcane laws that limit availability across the country. As wine editor, Gurvinder Bhatia, mentions in his column on page 64, Alberta (as well as the rest of Canada) needs to take a long hard look at the liquor laws we currently have on the books. The more than a quarter million readers of Quench have a loud, strong voice we can lend to the cause. It’s in our DNA as gourmets to talk about our passions. Let’s make this part of the conversation in 2017.
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CONTRIBUTORS A National Magazine award-winning writer, Christine Sismondo is Quench Magazine’s Lazy Mixologist columnist, as well as a regular contributor to The Globe and Mail and The Toronto Star. She is also the author of Mondo Cocktail: A Shaken and Stirred History, a history of cocktails and spirits, and America Walks into a Bar: A Spirited History of Taverns and Saloons, Speakeasies and Grog Shops, a book in which she tries to change the way the world looks at their local.
Joanne Will is an independent journalist who has covered diverse topics — from food, agriculture and transportation, to business, arts and the environment. For more information or to contact her visit www.sites.google.com/view/ joannewill/home.
When he’s not writing about wine, drinking wine or publishing his new Canadian Wineries, Tony Aspler is walking Pinot the Wonderdog and editing her Facebook Page. Read more at www.tonyaspler.com.
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FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 7
Q SCHOOL
SHAPE UP
Pasta is a staple for many households. Spaghetti, mac ‘n’ cheese, penne with pesto — you can do a lot with pasta, you just have to know a few things to make sure you’re getting the most out of it. All wheat-based pasta uses the same dough (recipe follows). It’s the shape of the pasta that changes your culinary experience.
LONG
The most common of the long pastas is spaghetti. Other long pastas can be compared to spaghetti in their girth and design. Serve with loose sauces. Thinner: fedelini, spaghettini, barbina and capellini. Think angel hair pasta (because that’s what capellini is …). Thicker: pici and maccheroni alla molinara are very thick, very long, hand-rolled pastas. Bucatini (also known as perciatelli) is a bigger, fatter spaghetti with a hollow centre, making it great for thick, ragu-style sauces. Funkier: linguini, tagliatelle and fettuccine are flat, long pastas, each with different widths. The flat shape holds light cream sauces. Fusilli is curly, corkscrew spaghetti. The tight screw threads are great for thick, grainy or meaty sauces.
SHEET
Probably the easiest pasta to make: roll out dough and cut into desired size. Sheet pastas are used for bakes (think lasagne) and stuffed pasta (like ravioli). To make cannelloni, cut your dough into rectangles, add your stuffing in a line down the centre and wrap in the fresh pasta; bake, cover in sauce and enjoy. To make ravioli, cut your dough into squares, add a little dollop of stuffing in the centre, fold over, bake, cover in sauce and serve. 8 × @QUENCH_MAG × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
OTHER SHAPES
All those fun shapes you see at the supermarket? Those go here. There are too many to list, so here are a couple and their best uses. Experiment to find what works best for your recipe. Conchiglie and orecchiette is shaped like shells and ears, respectively. The cup-like forms help to hold heavier vegetable-based sauces (think raw tomato, broccoli, etc.). You can also toss them into your pasta bake if you’re out of tube pasta. Farfalle is also known as bow-tie or butterfly pasta. The “wings” hold sauces really well, which makes this perfect for cold pasta salads. Spirali is the corkscrew-shaped pasta, ideal for coarse sauces with chunks of meat.
HOMEMADE PASTA
Recipe from The Complete Italian Cookbook (edited by Diana Vowles).
400 g all-purpose flour 4 medium eggs Vegetable oil 1. Dust board or surface with flour. Mound the flour on the board. Make a well in the centre. 2. Break eggs into well; add 1 tbsp cold water and 1 or 2 tsp of oil. Beat eggs with a fork, gradually working in the flour. Use your hands when dough becomes stiff. Knead for at least 10 minutes. Dough should be stiff — add flour if too soft. 3. When little air bubbles start to appear, roll the dough into a ball, flatten, then roll out with a rolling pin as far as possible, making sure the thickness is uniform. 4. Shape as desired. ×
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GOOD FOOD BY NANCY JOHNSON
Puffing up Cheese soufflé was once at the centre of an elegant dinner party. However, its popularity has waned over the years, which is a shame because it’s easy to make, it bakes while you enjoy an apéritif with your guests and it’s a culinary showstopper — that is, if it doesn’t collapse while you bring it to the table. But even if it does de-puff a little bit, it will still be delicious. Use fresh, room-temperature eggs. Bowl and beaters must be scrupulously clean or the egg whites won’t peak. If desired, add a pinch of cream of tartar to the egg whites when they are at the foamy stage to strengthen the meringue. Beat the whites until they are stiff, but not dry. Gently fold the meringue into the mixture; don’t overmix. To serve the soufflé in wedges, insert two forks back to back and gently pull soufflé apart.
CHEESE SOUFFLÉ SERVES 4
2 tbsp finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese 4 egg yolks 4 egg whites 1/4 cup butter 1/4 cup flour 1/4 tsp dry mustard 1 cup milk 2 cups shredded cheddar, Colby or Swiss cheese, or a combination Pinch cream of tartar, optional
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1. Heat oven to 350˚F. 2. Butter a soufflé dish or oven-safe 1 1/2 quart (6-cup) bowl.
Dust with Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. 3. Separate egg yolks from whites. Let both stand at room temperature for 30 minutes. 4. Make the cheese sauce: In a medium saucepan, melt butter. Stir in flour and dry mustard. Cook 1 minute, stirring. Add milk. Cook, stirring, over medium heat until thickened and bubbly. Remove from heat. Stir in cheese until melted. 5. In a large bowl, beat egg yolks with a fork until combined. Slowly add cheese sauce, whisking to combine. Cool slightly. 6. In a large mixing bowl, beat egg whites with an electric mixer on medium speed. Add a pinch of cream of tartar when whites are frothy, if desired. Continue beating until stiff peaks form, but whites are not dry. 7. Gently fold 1 cup of the egg white meringue into lukewarm cheese sauce. Gradually pour cheese sauce over remaining egg whites, folding gently to combine. Pour into soufflé dish. Bake about 40 minutes or until soufflé is puffed and golden brown on top and centre moves only slightly. Serve immediately. MATCH: Serve with Chablis or Pouilly-Fuissé. × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 11
UMAMI BY KATIA JEAN PAUL
A dinner scene “She made him the kind of jollof rice he liked, flecked with bits of red and green peppers, and as he ate, fork moving from the plate to his mouth, saying, ‘This is pretty good,’ as he always had in the past, she felt her tears and her questions gathering.” In Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie’s entrancing novel Americanah, jollof rice, a Nigerian staple, springs up several times throughout the more-than-500-page tome. At times, references to the smokey dish read as a harbinger of things to come; at others, a catalyst for a contemplative study on the part of its brooding characters. It, and food in general, is entwined with the narrative, conveying subtle truths about race, identity, relationships and the lingering affection between its main protagonists, Ifemelu and Obinze. From Lewis Carroll’s Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland to Thomas Harris’s The Silence of the Lambs — “A census taker tried to quantify me once. I ate his liver with some fava beans and a big Amarone,” quips Hannibal Lecter — both literary canon and works of contemporary fiction reveal that food and literature make for great bedfellows. At the outset, it is clear that the former informs, brightens and colours the latter. The inverse is also true. Literary-inspired cookbooks, such as The Artists & Writers’ Cookbook, Fictitious Dishes: An Album of Literature’s Most Memorable Meals, designer Dinah Fried’s imaginative picture book of famous literary dinner scenes, and memoirs interspersed with recipes, all lay bare the culinary quirks and fascinations of some of the greatest novelists this world has known. But food and literature, at its core, is much more than peppering the scene, seasoning the words that paint the breadth of human emotion with elaborate brush strokes. “I think food is so important in terms of creating a sense of time and place. And it reveals so much about character,” says Kate Young, a cook and writer whose own love of books inspired The Little Library Café, a blog featuring all manner of literary recipes. “The things that characters eat are details that are often everyday in nature, but they aren’t at all trivial.” 12 × @QUENCH_MAG × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
The first recipe Young posted to her blog two and a half years ago was one for a treacle tart, inspired by the titular character of J.K. Rowling’s acclaimed fantasy series. “I realized I fancied one because it’s Harry Potter’s favourite dessert, and those books are some of my favourite comfort reads,” Young recalls. The Little Library Café counts more than 100 recipes, drawn not only from novels, but children’s books, poetry collections, and plays. Among them, clam chowder inspired by Herman Melville’s Moby Dick, and alfajores, a Central American delicacy reminiscent of the warm biscuits in Gabriel Garcia Marquez’s One Hundred Years of Solitude. Young’s cookbook, set for publication in October 2017, will include breakfasts and midnight feasts alongside cakes, tarts and other gustatory treats inspired by her favourite books. As Americanah and novels both old and new demonstrate, culinary descriptions of food whet the appetite, but by no means are they mere flowery tangents. Their raison d’être is manifold. The moments they signify, considerable. Their influence, palpable. Literary cookbooks, in all their iterations, are a testament to that. While Adichie’s jollof rice and all that it portends lingers in my mind, it is within the pages of Frances Hodgson Burnett’s The Secret Garden that Young’s most beloved literary food scene unspools, which marks “the slow thawing of both the garden and of Mary,” as Young puts it. “It was an agreeable idea, easily carried out, and when the white cloth was spread upon the grass, with hot tea and buttered toast and crumpets, a delightfully hungry meal was eaten, and several birds on domestic errands paused to inquire what was going on and were led into investigating crumbs with great activity.” ×
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SALTY BREEZE
SOMETIMES I JUST NEED A PICK-ME-UP, AND WHEN I DO, I LOVE A MEAL THAT REMINDS ME OF WARMER CLIMATES. It might be that I’m drained, or maybe it’s the
short days and cold evenings walking the dog. I get tired of stews and comfort food that are so appealing at the beginning of winter, but seem to repeat all too often. I need to be reminded that summer is coming, and when I am, my mind instantly travels to the Mediterranean. A Mediterranean meal is the exact opposite of heavy stews and rich sauces. The meals are typically light and fresh, always a bit salty and acidic; they are what I crave in the summer. After eating lots of meat in the winter, fish is a great alternative and a healthy option as well. I used to only bake and fry fish, but I was introduced to poaching in a cooking class. Poaching helps keep food, in this case fish, feeling light and tender since there is no high heat being applied. This cooking style imparts a delicate texture that is hard to create in any other way. On top of all that, poaching (in any liquid) is one of the easiest ways to cook anything — and very difficult to overcook. Having a recipe that you can quickly put together and leave unattended is amazing. This recipe is great because in addition to being healthier, there is something about the smell and briney nature of olives and capers that takes my mind to warmer climates — that unmistakable smell, the smell of salty seas and warm breezes at the beach. It is not always feasible to get away every year, but just the thought of enjoying fresh meals on the water’s edge is enough to keep me in a happy place till the warm summer sun actually reveals itself.
14 × @QUENCH_MAG × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
POACHED COD
2 tbsp olive oil 2 shallots, diced 3 garlic cloves, finely diced 3 cups tomatoes, puréed 1/2 cup olives, finely diced 1/4 cup capers, chopped 2 tbsp salt 4 tbsp pepper 1 1/2 lbs cod fillets, about 4 pieces Basil, small bunch, chopped 1. Heat olive oil in heavy-bottomed frying pan (with high sides) over medium heat. Add shallots and garlic. Cook for 3 minutes, stirring. 2. Add tomato purée, olives, capers, half the salt and half the pepper. Bring up to a simmer. 3. Season cod with remaining salt and pepper. Add cod to the pan, and push down to fully cover with sauce. Cook for 10 minutes, or until each piece is fully cooked. Add basil on top and cook for additional 30 seconds. MATCH: Serve with orzo, roasted potatoes and sautéed veggies as well as a Sicilian Insolia. ×
MUST TRY
A tropical paradise Almonds are making a comeback. Or maybe they’ve never gone away. Either way, they are making their way onto our dinner plates, in succulent cakes and now in our drinks. Originally created to add a sweet punch to tropical drinks (see page 17), falernum is an easy way to dress up a cocktail.
FALERNUM 50 10 5 12 18 175 750 375 3 1/2
g blanched almonds, slivered g whole cloves g whole allspice oz Havana 3-year-old white rum limes zested (zest only) g fresh ginger, peeled and julienned g sugar g warm water oz fresh lime juice tsp almond extract
Toast almonds, cloves and allspice over medium heat until almonds are golden. Remove from heat, cool and add to rum, lime zest and ginger in a plastic Tupperware container. Cover, shake and let mixture sit for 24 hours at room temperature. Heat water and sugar gently while stirring to create a rich simple syrup. Strain the infused rum mixture through cheesecloth and a fine mesh strainer over a small bowl; discard solids. Add lime juice and almond extract, combine with simple syrup. Keep refrigerated for up to a month. ×
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 15
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LAZY MIXOLOGIST BY CHRISTINE SISMONDO
Spice route OVER-SEASONING IS LIKE OVERCOOKING. It’s a whole lot
easier to add more than it is to take away. Which is why it’s tempting to avoid certain spices altogether — allspice, nutmeg and cloves, for example. They’re heavy and can easily overwhelm a dish, a problem some of us recall from childhood — at least those of us who had the unfortunate experience of having our delicate and sensitive little taste buds subjected to an over-cloved ham. Those who experienced that particular trauma can be forgiven for completely avoiding cloves now that they’re adulting. In fact, I’ll admit to having once been a clove-phobe, myself. But after my first taste of a drink made with falernum — a spicy clove syrup — I soon realized I was really only hurting myself. Cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon, ginger and allspice are all in that family of baking spices that few cocktail enthusiasts ever use, except when making mulled wintery drinks such as glögg (mulled wine), hot buttered rum or egg nog. But that’s not the only family of drinks that need a hit of spice — they’re also essential ingredients in those tropical and tiki drinks that keep us sane through the winter by reminding us we will, once again, get to enjoy island time. So, to keep the spirit of summer alive through the winter, we asked Justin Shiels of Toronto’s Good Fortune bar to give us a few tips on how to use heavy spices like cloves in cocktails. The secret, it turns out, is to tone them down by using them in syrups such as falernum, which have other intense, complementary flavours, such as lime zest, ginger and vanilla. “I don’t make a ton of syrups or cordials, since I try to simplify my mise en place and not overcomplicate things,” says Shiels. “But there are a few that I always have and one of them is falernum. It’s a must for me at all times, because it’s so versatile.” Shiels’ falernum has both cloves and allspice and, unlike many of his bartender colleagues, he doesn’t only use it in rum-based drinks. He loves to use it to balance out tequila’s rough edges or perk up a whisky cocktail. It’s all about picking the right spirit.
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“Pairing spicy syrups with spirits that have a lot of nice vanilla notes works really well,” says Shiels. “Vanilla and clove, ginger or allspice, that’s a natural progression.” Shiels shares his recipe for the Black Hole, one of his favourite spicy signature cocktails, so that we can stop worrying and learn to love cloves again, too.
BLACK HOLE 1 1/2 1/2 1/4 1/4 5 1/4
oz Lot 40 whisky oz Byrrh Quinquina oz falernum (recipe page 15) oz Fernet-Branca drops Tiki Bitters bar spoon activated charcoal
Stir all ingredients in a mixing glass and strain into a rocks glass with 1 large lump of ice. Zest with orange. × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 17
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Why do I seem to be the only one who still likes German wines? I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but reports from the front lines indicate that you may be on your own in the battle to keep German wines relevant in the 21st century and, sadly, the cavalry is headed in the opposite direction. Why? Where do I start? If this was the 1980s, popular music would be worth listening to and the wines of Germany would be kings of liquor-store shelves. Since they were some of the first wines imported into Canada, their consumer-friendly, off-dry-meets-semi-sweet flavour profiles made them the perfect all-around pick for anyone who couldn’t stomach a glass of beer or hard liquor; the ideal meal mate for holiday family gatherings, which, at the time, was the only inspiration to serve wine for 99 percent of the country. When wine started to become the drink of choice for hipsters in the early ‘90s and selection across Canada began to grow exponentially — especially from cool, upstart New World countries like Australia and the USA — the wines from Germany accepted a subservient position as the “training wheels” tipple for beginners. One that would be cast aside once a palate got a taste for drier whites and fuller-bodied reds, which are wine styles Germany struggles to produce. Things haven’t changed much in the last 30 years. Attempts at attracting new fans with drier versions of themselves failed, with the only momentum gained coming from modern packaged versions of what they do best — light-bodied, fruit-forward white wines made with the Riesling grape. All that said, I’m on your side. The Germans have one major advantage over the competition. Turkey dinner aside, they are the quintessential definition of food-friendly, especially when it
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comes to eclectic cuisine. Think sushi, Thai, Chinese and Mexican, as well as anything international with an upfront spiciness or that comes plated with a bevy of conflicting flavours. No one does thirst-quenching and refreshing better than the Germans, and in a liquor landscape where everything old is new again, German wines just may have their day, again.
What is grappa and how is it made?
A better question is: What isn’t grappa? Except for open-minded Italians, who call the place it was invented home, the majority of the planet considers it fancy moonshine at best or the primer for an expensive Molotov cocktail at worst. Though its true origins remain a mystery, the idea of distilling pomace, the leftover guck from the winemaking process, appears to have occurred to the Italians somewhere in the middle of the 14th century thanks to someone finally putting into words what they put in their mouths. To clarify, the term pomace covers a lot of ground, including everything from the leftover skins, stems, seeds and the pulp of the grapes previously pressed into vino. Arguably the first attempt at organic recycling, grappa’s popularity was built on the palates of the Italian working class from across the country who found drinking the spirited remanents of fine wine within their snack bracket. For the sake of transparency, I’m a fan. As close as some of the low-end variations come to drinking sandpaper, good grappa is … really good grappa. Many of your favourite high-end Italian wines, like Tignanello and Sassicaia, give birth to grappa from the remains of their high-end grapes, and many more wineries experiment with oak-aging with their grappas drinking as fine as a cognac or Scottish whisky. If you’re into packaging, grappa producers take their bottles very seriously. From hand-blown beauties with a grape bunch magically floating inside to decanters that put perfumeries to shame, what grappa may lack in mainstream flavour it more than makes up for in looks. × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 19
DISPATCHES by Tod Stewart
FROM THE GRE IT WAS AFTER MIDNIGHT — WELL AFTER MIDNIGHT — AND THE WINE RIVER THAT SLUICED THROUGH DINNER HAD DRIED TO A BARE TRICKLE, GIVING WAY TO MORE POTENT POTABLES. On hand was a typically Azorean
feast of pork ribs, chouriço and morcela sausages, fried cornbread, roast chicken and the famous São Jorge cheese, made ever more delicious with cup after cup of rustic red wine and followed by the usual plethora of pastries. The mood in the packed room was festive, and though no holiday or other significant date was being observed, it was a celebration nonetheless. A celebration of food, friends, wine, song and life in general. We toasted into the morning with liberal doses of potent aguardente — the indigenous moonshine that seemingly everyone, with great pride, home-distills and is deceptively easy to drink way too much of. I dubbed the Centro Civico da Relva (the site of the previous night’s adventure — essentially the town hall) “The House of Pain.” Not that there was anything painful about the ultra-affordable and delicious meals it regularly hosts. It’s just that aguardente, when consumed in bulk, can make the following morning a bit, well, slow. Relva, a 12-square-kilometre civil parish, lies just west of Ponta Delgada, the largest municipality and capital city of São Miguel — itself the largest of the nine islands that make up the Azores archipelago. Technically part of Portugal, the volcanic Azores bob in the North Atlantic, about a five-hour flight from Toronto and a two-hour one from the Portuguese mainland. Officially the Região Autónoma dos Açores, its inhabitants don’t really equate themselves with their mainland brethren, choosing instead to remain independent-minded and culturally distinct. Though the “evening” at the Centro Civico wrapped up very late, the day had begun considerably earlier. With wine, beer, food and other essentials (like aguardente ... groan) firmly secured on the back of our trusty burro, Pasqual, we trekked slowly down
20 × @QUENCH_MAG × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
a sheer oceanside cliff leading to a summer house in the area of Rocha da Relva. The lodging had been in the hands of my friend Nelia’s family for generations (she was born on the island). Nelia and her hubby, Taras, visit the island regularly. I was fortunate enough to be invited on their most recent jaunt to live the Azores life in a decidedly non-touristy manner. As we moved ever closer to the rocky coastline below, I took in the slightly surreal surroundings. Seemingly ancient stone homes appeared to grow out of the steep incline, their chimneys wafting fragrant wood smoke. Somewhat fittingly, Madonna’s “La Isla Bonita” also wafted out of the open window of one home. A lone skin diver, sheathed in black neoprene, patrolled the dark waters past the breakers like a territorial sea lion. Seabirds wheeled as the morning sun glinted off the rippling grey surf. Fruit and vegetable gardens flourished in precariously terraced plots that, defying gravity, clung to the steeply angled slope. Pasqual seemed not to share my wonderment. He’d done this route more times than he probably cared to remember and was trudging ahead with the stoic/stubborn indifference that only an overburdened beast of burden could muster. The day was spent relaxing by the ocean, enjoying libations and a lunch of grilled chicken, pork and various sausages expertly prepared by Nelia’s Uncle Humberto. As the sun began to dip, we loaded up Pasqual and began a somewhat weary ascent up the cliffside, pausing every once and a while to massage aching legs and catch our breath, the anticipation of the evening ahead at the Centro Civico with Nelia’s extended family and Relva locals keeping us fuelled.
EEN ISLAND AS A DESTINATION, THE AZORES HAVE MUCH TO OFFER. In fact, tourism has become an increasingly important
source of revenue for the region, along with agriculture, dairy farming, livestock ranching and fishing. As one of the top whaleand dolphin-watching sites in the world, you can, depending on the season, encounter some 20 different species, both resident and migrant. The sights on land are as stunning as those in the water. Black sand beaches, soaring mountains that plunge into jade and azure lakes, bubbling sulphurous hot springs, the only European tea plantations and vast expanses of vivid hydrangeas are just a few of the spectacular visuals you are likely to encounter. The weather is relatively mild for such a northerly location, thanks largely to the proximity of the Gulf Stream. Most of the houses in Relva don’t have central heat. Gourmands visiting the Azores will fill their plates — and glasses. Abundant seafood, top-quality local beef and pork, excellent cheeses and dairy products, some rather exotic fruits (including the unique Azores pineapple) and vegetables can be found almost everywhere. Since dining out is very easy on the pocketbook, exploring the local cuisine in neighbourhood establishments is the way to go. (Though if you have the good fortune of getting to know some of the residents, as I did, you can’t beat an authentic, home-cooked Azores meal.) There are also a number of wineries in the region. While winemaking is certainly not new to the Azores, the area has only fairly recently begun focusing on producing wines of world-class calibre. Most wineries are concentrated on the island of Pico, but we heard there was one not too far from where we were staying on São Miguel. Finding it, however, proved a bit tricky.
WE SET OFF TO SCOUT OUT THE MYSTERIOUS WINERY AFTER LUNCH AT BAR CALOURA, IN THE COASTAL TOWN OF CALOURA, EAST OF PONTA DELGADA. Octopus
salad was followed by the fresh fish of the day; in our case, barracuda, bluefish and lingcod, all seared to perfection. We chose a local white — the Curral Atlantis 2014 from Pico — as the match. A blend of Verdelho and the indigenous Arinto dos Açores, the wine was aromatically floral, with mineral, anise notes that mingled with the briny ocean air. Its medium-full zesty/briny/citrus flavours matched well with the meaty, slightly smoky fish. After passing through downtown Ponta Delgada, we soon found ourselves motoring along narrow roads that undulated through the countryside. Cows grazed high up on the hillsides while expanses of green Camellia sinensis (aka, tea) slinked over the distant landscape. Eventually we hit the parish of Fenais da Luz, on the island’s north side. Navigating the roads required a bit of etiquette. Taras explained that because of the narrow streets, if a car is heading towards you and there is also a parked car on the side you are driving on, it is polite (and safer) to yield to the oncoming vehicle. Playing “chicken” is not advised. We drove, seemingly in circles, searching for the mysterious winery. Asking one of the locals about it drew a blank stare. Finally, with the aid of modern technology, we found Quinta da Jardinete. We had actually driven past it a couple of times already since nothing about it seem to shout “winery.” From the road, the main building — a whitewashed, two-storey affair — could have passed for a local inn. The vineyards themselves were hidden FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 21
THE WEATHER OF THE REGION IS RELATIVELY MILD FOR SUCH A NORTHERLY LOCATION, THANKS LARGELY TO THE PROXIMITY OF THE GULF STREAM. behind a wall made from volcanic stone that completely enveloped them. (I was to learn later that these enclosures are called currais, and that they are quite typical of Azores vineyards. They protect the vines from wind and radiate heat at night.) After being greeted warmly by Mario Rebelo, the operation’s viticulturist, viniculturist, bottler, labeller and essentially “Jack of all trades” (“doctor and engineer” was how he put it), we proceeded to tour the unique property, which dates back to 1750. Rebelo revealed that they had selected specific vine clones that sport looser bunches to allow for better air circulation since humidity and the moulds that accompany it are among the biggest drawbacks of grape-growing in a sub-tropical climate. The four hectares of vineyards were planted with both noble and native grape varieties, including Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Tempranillo and Merlot, to name a few. After tasting some tank samples — and buying a few bottles to take with us — we headed back to Relva for a family dinner with Uncle Humberto and Aunt Luisa. Here I was introduced to another home-made Azores specialty: vinho abafado. Grapes are left to ferment for about 24 hours before being fortified with aguardente and then aged. The white version, made from the native Verdelho, was fragrant with flower blossom and peach overtones, and a slightly spritzy, crisp and sweet but zesty flavour profile. The red counterpart was intensely grapey, with hints of raisin and baking spice. I was also treated to a flight of Cousin Vasco’s hand-crafted liqueurs, which he had made by infusing fresh fruits and spices in aguardente for three months or so. Once again, I was plied with straight aguardente, this time Humberto’s signature house version. Bottled at 45 percent ABV, the spirit was perhaps the best of the lot I tried on São Miguel — clean and spicy with a distinctive smokiness, reminding me a bit of a light mezcal. 22 × @QUENCH_MAG × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
THE REST OF OUR TIME ON “THE GREEN ISLAND” (AS SÃO MIGUEL IS REFERRED TO LOCALLY) WAS SPENT VISITING LOCAL SITES AND ATTRACTIONS, ALWAYS WITH GASTRONOMIC DIVERSIONS. Having spent some time taking in the
spectacular gardens and views from the Miradouro da Ponta do Sossego and Miradouro da Ponta da Madrugada on the island’s east coast, we hit Restaurante Mariserra for a fantastic seafood lunch featuring fresh crab, stuffed squid and the island’s famous lapas (“limpets”) a type of sea snail served grilled with a garlic and butter dressing. A visit to the village of Furnas brought us face to face with the eerie, boiling, smouldering caldeiras that dot the area. It also allowed us to hit Restaurante O Miroma to dig into a local specialty: cozido, essentially a vegetable and meat stew that is cooked using the heat from these volcanic springs. After checking out the lush Miradouro Lagoa do Canário and the glorious Lagoa das Sete Cidades (“Lagoon of Seven Cities”) with its twin crater lakes — Lagoa Azul (“blue lagoon”) and Lagoa Verde (“green lagoon”), named after the colour of the water in each — we dropped into Casa do Bife O Galego for a sampling of the incredible regional beef tenderloin served with garlic, peppers and frites, and crowned with a fried egg. We also managed to cram in visits to the island’s Fabrica de Licores Mulher de Capote distillery and a local cigar manufacturing factory, all the while enjoying drinks on numerous outdoor patios along with additional helpings of Azores cuisine. Unfortunately, I had to leave the company of my friends — and my newly acquired “family” — early to fly back to Toronto, unpack, do laundry, repack, sleep and catch a flight to Argentina 24 hours later. I begrudgingly left the beauty of Sao Miguel, and its tantalizing food and drink and warm hospitality, with a notebook full of memories, a strong desire to return and, of course, a bottle of aguardente. ×
SPARKLES by Treve Ring
It’s true that Champagne sets the gold standard for sparkling wines, but it’s no longer necessary to fill your flute with gold, and pay that price, to enjoy a spectacular sparkler. Many other regions around the world are making very high quality traditional method sparkling wines, including Canada (see page 26). Canucks do share the 49th parallel with the Champenois, after all. The painstaking traditional method of production is mandated by law not only for Champagne, of course, but also for numerous other bubbles, including Spanish Cava, French Crémant, Italian Franciacorta and South African Method Cap Classique. Naturally, the grapes, soils and climate affect the final wine dramatically, and regional appellation laws vary with respect to grapes, lees time and yields. But it is widely accepted that for the most complex sparkling wines, secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle, wine is aged on the lees and clarified slowly by hand or by gyropalette with remuage (riddling). Once the spent yeast is into the neck of the bottle, the plug is disgorged, the wine is topped up with dosage, and the bottle is recorked to rest for several months, or years, prior to release. Here are other regions around the world beyond Champagne that are making serious, high-quality, traditional method sparkling wine, as well as recommended wines to seek out.
ENGLAND
English sparkling wine has emerged as a darling of the global fizz scene, with cool (but some years too fringe) climates and a swath of desirable chalk (that continues down to Champagne), prompting plantings and investment. Even Champagne is taking notice, with Taittinger recently investing deeply in English vineyard land. Many of the 500 commercial vineyards in the country are producing sparkling wine, and it now accounts for almost 70 percent of the entire production. Shearing, racy acidity is hallmark, coupled with grippy, chalky texture and appealingly low alcohol. The industry’s youth means that there isn’t much reserve wine in the blends, though as cellars deepen and mature so will the nature of these pristine wines. Hampshire and Sussex carry the majority of these sparkling holdings, with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir aided to a small degree by Pinot Meunier in the cuvée.
HAMBLEDON VINEYARD CLASSIC CUVÉE ROSÉ NV, ENGLAND ($40) Bright and juicy fine strawberry, wild raspberry and light toast fill this linear rosé fizz from Hambledon’s estate vineyards, finishing with a chalky, salty riff and lingering white cherry notes. South East-facing chalk slopes in Windmill Down provide a pithy and grippy texture to this crisp, bright fizz from one of England’s oldest commercial vineyards (1952) and certainly one of the most exciting quality sparkling producers. 95 percent from the 2014 harvest is splashed with five percent barrel-aged reserve wines. The Chardonnay was fermented in French oak and, after six months, was blended with the Pinot Noir in stainless steel for 14 months on the lees. Precise and structured, with a gentle cushion of cherries to counter the striking acidity, this is drinking beautifully now but will continue to deepen over the next few years. FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 23
SOUTH AFRICA
Corinne Seely from England’s Exton Park
EXTON PARK BRUT RESERVE NV, ENGLAND ($40) From the chalky soils of Hampshire’s South Downs, this is a 60/40 blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay based on the 2013 vintage with reserve wines from 2011 and 2012. 17 months on the lees, the 7 g/l RS is perfectly situated to offset the shearing lemon acidity. Laced with chalky grip, this is a bright, direct and focused fizz that is near the very top of the pack of English sparkling wines.
NEW ZEALAND
The Kiwis’ cool climate, plentiful sunshine and diversity of soils and climates has spurned a recent surge in sparkling wines, specifically (and fittingly for this premium wine region) traditional method sparkling. Already making waves for their balanced, fruit-laden and mineral Chardonnays, it’s natural that this grape take the lead in these structural wines, often joined by Kiwi-friendly Pinot Noir. Sauvignon Blanc plays a role as well, as one can imagine, but the fruity and thiol-fuelled grape fares less well with autolytic flavours. Though New Zealand fizz only represents 0.8 percent of exports cur24 × @QUENCH_MAG × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
rently, expect this to grow rapidly. Look to Gisborne on the North Island for fruity, generous styles, and Marlborough in the south where the diurnal shift enhances the crispness and finesse desired.
NO. 1 FAMILY ESTATE BLANC DE BLANCS NV, MARLBOROUGH, NEW ZEALAND ($36) Spiced ginger dough, sea salt and frizzed lemon pith open this blanc de blancs, from 100 percent Chardonnay. The tight green apple and lemon character has been deepened and matured with 2 years on the lees, but still retains the marine freshness. Elegant and well integrated.
QUARTZ REEF METHODE TRADITIONNELLE NV, CENTRAL OTAGO, NEW ZEALAND ($35) Light golden in hue, this biodynamic Pinot Noir/Chardonnay from Bendigo, Central Otago, spent 24 months on the lees, and it is integrated beautifully. Savoury lees are joined by red apple, delicate florals and cherry, all grounded by a subtle brioche nuttiness and lifted by crisp mineral and pink grapefruit vibrancy. Fresh and complete, with a lingering pithiness on the very lengthy finish.
Methode Cap Classique, or MCC, is a term created in 1992 by The Cap Classique Producers Association (CCPA), a group of like-minded producers who banded to promote quality traditional method fizz. There are now more than 70 members across most of South Africa, with the limestone-laced soils of Robertson recognized as a standout region for production. Any grapes are allowed, though Chardonnay is viewed as the best, and wines must spend nine months on the lees and a total of 12 months in bottle. To ensure quality, whole-bunch pressing is mandated for the base wines, and these are tasted annually by the association’s members to promote quality for the final wine. According to Pieter Ferriera, sparkling winemaker guru and head of Graham Beck (which recently transitioned to entirely fizz production), the goal is to up the minimum lees time to 15 months in the future.
GRAHAM BACK BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS 2010, WO ROBERTSON, SOUTH AFRICA ($30) Winemaker Pieter Ferreira is one of the leading proponents of the MCC association, and a globally recognized fizz specialist. This fresh, focused Chardonnay was whole-bunch pressed, 50 percent fermented in oak barrels (seven percent new barrels) before 36 months on the lees. Disgorged in 2014, this yields a fine balance between subtle tangerine pith and gently creamy, biscuit-laced lees. You can feel the wake of the region’s warmth on the finish, though this crisp and saline fizz rings with freshness. Robertson has a high proportion of limestone soils and this Chardonnay is predominantly sited on them.
HUIS VAN CHEVALLERIE FILIA CHENIN BLANC BRUT NATURE KAP KLASSIEK 2013, WO SWARTLAND, SOUTH AFRICA ($30) From gnarly, old bush-vine Chenin from Paardeberg, planted at 330m. This is zero dosage, but with 4 g/l of residual sugar naturally left from the wild ferment, it is labelled Brut. 14 months on the lees provides this skeletal and racy fizz with a little cushion on its bones — just enough to prop up the green apple, salty, wet stone and lemon pith raciness of the Chenin.
Ca’ Del Bosco’s winemaker, Stefano Capelli
GERMANY
Germans drink more sparkling wine than anyone on the planet (nearly five bottles of bubbles for every adult and child annually). They make a lot of sparkling wine too, though only two to three percent of the Sekt produced is traditional method. As with most things German, knowing how to read your labels pays off. Traditionnelle Flaschengärung indicates traditional method production, and if Winzersekt is noted, the wines were produced from the growers’ own grapes, parallel to grower Champagne. Obviously Riesling rules here, from crisp, taut styles to riper, fruitier examples. However, many producers are working with Chardonnay, Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) and Weißburgunder (Pinot Blanc) in serious fizz.
RAUMLAND RIESLING PRESTIGE BRUT 2008, RHEINHESSEN, GERMANY ($35) Savoury throughout, with large-flake sea salt, stones, biscuit and yellow apple shaped with the razor cut of Riesling on limestone. The pervading freshness can be attributed to malolactic fermentation stopping on its own this year. Linear and streaming, with citrus pith on the brisk, lingering finish. A beaut, this organic wine has aged very well. Disgorged in March 2016.
REICHSRAT VON BUHL ROSÉ BRUT 2014, PFALZ, GERMANY ($40) Deeper, bright pink hue, this 100 percent Spätburgunder is from the 2014 vintage. Skin contact for a few hours, and then direct press into stainless. Beauty, freshness and purity. Brisk, fresh and bright, with fine wild strawberry, subtle cherry, white grapefruit pith acidity and subtle raspberry blossoms on the finish. Pristine.
ITALY
No country has as many fizz appellations as Italy, with its optional “maybe spumante” clauses taking up more than 100 of the country’s DOCs. However it wasn’t until 1995 that the metodo classico (traditional method) style appellation was recognized, and the DOCG classification was applied exclusively to the sparkling wines of Lombardy’s Franciacorta. Here, the triangle-shaped region is moderated by the effects of Lake Iseo, and protected by the shadows of the Dolomites, affording a much milder winter than most sub-alpine regions, and warmer summers than Champagne, yielding fruitier, riper wines. Chardonnay and/or Pinot Nero are mandated, with the use of Pinot Bianco (up to 50 percent) allowed, and wines must spend a minimum of 18 months on the lees.
FERGHETTINA FRANCIACORTA EXTRA BRUT 2006 DOCG, LOMBARDY, ITALY ($52) A serious, structured bubble, with 80/20 Chardonnay/Pinot Noir spending 69 months on the lees. Ample brioche and lees here, laced with ripe pear, red apple, almonds and orange blossom. The full, concentrated palate is sheared with pithy acidity, a well-played foil to the richness in the mouth. If you’re looking for a full, rich, well-built, aged (and age-worthy up to another 10 years) traditional method sparkling, here you go.
CA’ DEL BOSCO FRANCIACORTA CUVÉE PRESTIGE NV, LOMBARDY, ITALY ($42) Rich, doughy and concentrated, this blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Nero and Pinot Bianco commands attention with its ample heady, autolytic character. 20 percent vintage wine and 28 months on the lees amps up the volume and density, while a persistent bead of acidity works overtime to lift the heft. Baked apple, brioche, nougat and lemon are supported with creamy mousse and fine spice through the lingering finish. Confident presence and rich from top to bottom, this would pair with mains like roasted partridge. × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 25
IT’S TIME TO FOCUS by Tim Pawsey
It’s coming up on 30 years since the great hybrid pull-out effectively launched the modern-day British Columbia wine industry. In a few short decades, we’ve moved (thankfully) firmly beyond Father Pansy’s communion wine, OK Red, Chancellor — and Baby Duck. (Yes, that sweet ’70s sparkler was once Canada’s largest selling wine, so much so that Brights even launched it in the UK to compete with such major brands as Babycham and Mateus.) As the BC industry matures, discussions are unfolding as to whether the province should now focus its energies on the varieties it does best. There’s even some consensus that those grapes should be Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Noir and Syrah. That said, BC is a multi-faceted, far-from-homogenous wine region. What flies in the South Okanagan does not necessarily thrive in the north, or for that matter on Vancouver Island, in the Fraser Valley, Lillooet or Kamloops.
THE SPARKLING OPTION
While the “time to focus” argument is driven by variety, there’s also no shortage of proponents who believe that sparkling wines could be BC’s best bet. BC sparklers are coming to the fore, as numerous wineries jump on the bubble bandwagon. As to why it took so long, I’ll hazard a guess that with icewine all but dead and buried (with a firm assist from climate change), it’s sparkling wine’s turn to be in the spotlight, particularly as it sheds its purely celebratory mantle for a more flexible, food-friendly robe. Sumac Ridge founder Harry McWatters first came up with the idea that there was a place for BC bubble. Evidently he was right: Sumac’s new ownership has seen fit to brand Steller’s Jay as a stand-alone product. At the time, beyond a messianic group of committed believers, there were few admirers of BC wine, period. Moreover, the idea that people would opt for an unproven BC nod to Champagne when they could just as easily buy Sonoma sparkling or even Spanish Cava seemed far fetched. 26 × @QUENCH_MAG × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
Noted author John Schreiner credits researcher Gary Strachan for coming up with the idea of putting Okanagan acidity to good use by making sparkling wines. According to Schreiner, Strachan launched National Research Council-funded trials in 1983, making several batches at the Summerland Research Station. McWatters became involved (as did winemaker Eric von Krosigk) and Steller’s Jay eventually became a reality. McWatters’ commercial winery background underscored the value of a balanced portfolio. More to the point, he was convinced that grapes coming from a triangle within the central Okanagan (between Summerland, Naramata and Okanagan Falls) had the right amount of bright acidity to make good sparkling. “One thing we’ve never been short of is acid, so rather than fight it, we thought, why not capitalize on it?,” he says. In hindsight, McWatters adds, “It was a way too ambitious project. We made six bottles each of — I don’t know how many — different cuvées, as well as single varieties, using six different yeasts.” But all was not in vain. “What we learned from it, still holds true in my mind, especially if we look at what each variety brought to the blend: Pinot Blanc delivers the fruit; Chardonnay, elegance and finesse; while the backbone and character came from Pinot Noir.” At the end of the day, the point was proven. In fact, McWatters suggests it’s too bad those trials didn’t happen years earlier since they would have been equally as successful using hybrids. “Just look at what Bruce Ewart has achieved [at L’Acadie], in Nova Scotia,” he says.
SPARKLING IS INFINITELY SUITABLE FOR OUR REGION … IT’S AMAZING HOW MUCH TIME AND EFFORT GOES INTO IT. IN SOME WAYS, IT’S VERY MUCH A LABOUR OF LOVE.” BAILEY WILLIAMSON McWatters went on to develop a legendary love for his bubble. He probably hosted more winemaker’s dinners than anyone else in the BC industry. And each one started with a glass of Steller’s Jay. His latest venture, Time Estate Winery (housed in a repurposed cinema complex in downtown Penticton) will release its first sparkler in a couple of years, a predominantly Chardonnay– Pinot Blanc blend. “We don’t have access to the Pinot that we’d like right now,” he says. At the time, it’s fair to say, there wasn’t much love lost between McWatters and Blue Mountain founder Ian Mavety, who were firmly on opposite sides of the VQA fence. McWatters was a founding father of VQA, while Mavety chose not to embrace the program in any way. His prime objection arose from the fact that VQA allows wineries to use the term “estate” on their labels for wines that don’t contain estate-grown fruit. To this day, Blue Mountain uses only estate-grown grapes. With Pinot Noir and Chardonnay being the priority, it was only natural that Blue Mountain would add traditional method sparkling wines to its collection. However, the success of Blue Mountain Brut (in addition to its other styles) has served only to build on the winery’s legendary cult status. Now in the hands of the brother and sister team of Matt and Christie Mavety, the winery has increased the emphasis on the sparkling wines their father introduced. Just as for the still wines, “We’ve always tried to let the terroir speak,” says winemaker Matt Mavety. “Our original approach was very much Champagne style. Plus, the fact that we have always grown our own fruit has been hugely beneficial in terms of experience to draw on.” Blue Mountain’s Gold Label Brut has become the BC “gold standard” for bubble, although it no longer goes unchallenged as the quality and scope of BC sparkling wines continues to increase and expand. In addition, rosé, Blancs de Blancs and RD Vintage wines continue to assist in maintaining Blue Mountain’s pre-eminence as a sparkling wine producer.
THE SHOWMAN
The other member of the original BC sparkling triumvirate is Summerhill, whose founder Stephen Cipes has, over the years, contributed more than his share of panache to an often staid industry. When Cipes and winemaker Eric von Krosigk established Summerhill in 1991, the original idea was to produce nothing but sparkling wines — pyramid aged, of course. That turned out to be not as feasible as first thought. However, it didn’t prevent the installation of a giant champagne bottle and ornate glass sculpture that became an Okanagan fixture. In true Cipes style, it was erected without a permit. “Forgiveness is the best permission,” he quipped. Von Krosigk left to make wine at LeComte — later Hawthorne Mountain Vineyards (which made HMV sparkling Riesling) and now See Ya Later Ranch — but returned to Summerhill to put the sparkling program firmly on track, bringing the Cipes Brut blend of Riesling, Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay no shortage of recognition and international awards. Over the years, Cipes has gained a well-earned reputation for innovation, producing the first icewine dosage sparkling wine, as well as rosé, Blanc de Blancs, Blanc de Noirs, a traditional cuvée and a series of vintage reserve wines. Cipes Brut also gained considerable traction by being served at the Yeltsin–Clinton Vancouver summit in 1994, as well as at Prime Minister Kim Campbell’s inauguration. A long-time proponent of organically farmed grapes, Summerhill just produced its first entirely certified organic sparkling wine. A complex process, says Von Krosigk, who’s never shied away from a challenge. It will be released in a couple of years. When 2011 yielded a difficult vintage, a particularly slow-ripening block of Cabernet Franc in Osoyoos, usually destined for icewine, nudged its way to 19.5 Brix. Von Krosigk elected to use the grapes to make sparkling. But, before picking was completed, a snowstorm hit and the baskets didn’t get to press until two days later. At the time, the temperature was plummeting and the crush pad was busy making icewine with grapes from elsewhere. FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 27
40 KNOTS SPINDRIFT BRUT 2012, VANCOUVER ISLAND ($37) Estate grown on a windswept site near Comox overlooking the Salish Sea, this traditional method blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay spent 4 years sur lie. A fine stream of bubbles with definite brioche and melon aromas before a well-defined palate with distinct Pinot notes and creamy texture and a lengthy, dry end.
BLUE GROUSE PAULA SPARKLING, VANCOUVER ISLAND ($25) Winemaker Bailey Williamson makes good use of Island-grown Germanic varieties to come up with a good example of what could be taking place on Vancouver Island on a broader scale. Traditional method, mainly Ortega (37%) and Pinot Gris (38%) with Müller-Thurgau (10%) and Oliver-sourced Pinot Blanc (5%). Aromas of brioche and earthy notes, followed by an apple-toned palate with a hint of citrus to close.
BLUE MOUNTAIN BRUT ROSÉ R.D. 2012 ($24.95) This is one of those classics that never fails to impress. A firm mousse and persistent stream of bubbles, followed by aromas of red fruit before a palate of subtle strawberry and citrus. A definite vinous edge, good texture, some leesy notes and a lingering end. Think salmon of any kind.
BLUE MOUNTAIN SPARKLING BRUT GOLD LABEL ($25) From one of the pioneers who identified the potential for Champagne-style sparkling very early on, this refreshingly clean, traditional method Pinot-Chardonnay sparkler sports a stream of fine bubbles with a toasty nose, mouth-filling mousse and elegant apple-citrus notes through the mid-palate. Still one of the “gold standards” for BC.
SUMMERHILL CIPES BLANC DE FRANC 2011 ($35) One of the more interesting bubbles to come out of the Okanagan is this roséstyle wine made with 100% Cabernet Franc grapes. Has an elegant and structured drop, a pretty mousse and a crisp, dry finish. Pioneering winemaker Eric Von Krosigk made this wine in a year when it wasn’t possible to make icewine. 28 × @QUENCH_MAG × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
SUMMERHILL CIPES BRUT ($24.95)
FITZ BRUT 2012 ($32.50)
Eric von Krosigk’s Riesling (70%), Pinot Blanc (20%) and Chardonnay (10%) blend produces appealing apple, citrus and pear notes on top, with lively bubbles and a creamy mousse, followed by firm, food-friendly acidity and a broad, creamy mouthfeel.
The inaugural Brut from this new venture by one of the Okanagan’s pioneering wine families combines Pinot Noir (69%) and Chardonnay (31%) in a traditional method with 36 months on lees, as well as time in neutral oak. Orchard, citrus and stone fruits on top, fine bubbles and a well-balanced, creamy palate with some flinty hints and a lengthy, clean finish.
SUMMERHILL CIPES BLANC DE BLANC ($35) Slightly chalky-toned Cipes Blanc de Blanc 2010 (100% Chardonnay), with a creamy top, orchard fruit and good bubbles. 4 years aged sur lie, this layered and complex wine yields apple and nutty notes with a zesty end. Tuck it away for a few years and it will reward with an even creamier personality, says the winemaker.
GRAY MONK ODYSSEY WHITE BRUT 2013 ($25) With its solid mousse, creamy mouthfeel, apple, citrus and stone fruit notes, no wonder this stylin’ Riesling and Pinot Blanc bubble scooped a coveted Platinum medal at this year’s BC Wine Awards.
GRAY MONK ODYSSEY BRUT ROSÉ ($27) A blend of Pinot Meunier and Gamay Noir, with a gorgeous salmon colour and stream of lively bubbles, it has more than a hint of fresh-cut rhubarb on the nose, followed by a well-textured, broad palate with red berry hints, such as strawberry, and a touch of melon, before a clean finish that tastes drier than it is. In true Gray Monk style, the fruit rules, but there’s also no shortage of polish and structure.
JOIEFARM PLEIN DE VIE SPARKLING ROSÉ 2015 ($20)
OKANAGAN CRUSH PAD NARRATIVE ANCIENT METHOD 2013 ($40) From near Black Sage, unfined and unfiltered, a bone-dry expression of Okanagan Chardonnay. Creamy mousse and fine bubbles, with citrus and bready notes on top before a yeasty, broad and well-textured creamy palate. with citrus plus some sage and earthy notes, and a crisp end.
SALT SPRING VINEYARDS KARMA, SALT SPRING ISLAND ($32) This sparkling is unique, being the only sparkling wine produced on the Southern Gulf Islands. Traditional method, made with all estate-grown Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Pale gold with a fine stream. Yeasty toasty notes on top before a palate of orchard fruits wrapped in a firm texture with a crisp, clean finish.
ROAD 13 SPARKLING CHENIN BLANC ($40) Citrus, pear and biscuit notes on top with a fine, persistent mousse and endless stream. Great fruit–acid balance with tremendous length. Green apple with leesy notes, good fruit expression and excellent varietal character. Crown cap.
Charmat method Pinot Meunier (40%), Chardonnay (40%), Pinot Noir (20%) Prosecco-style sparkling yields medium salmon rose in the glass, with strawberry and earthy notes, crisp acidity and citrus on the palate. Some watermelon hints to close.
STELLER’S JAY BRUT ($22)
TANTALUS OLD VINES RIESLING NATURAL BRUT 2013 ($35)
UNSWORTH CHARME DE L’ISLE 2014, VANCOUVER ISLAND ($23)
Fine stream of bubbles with medium mousse and earthy, mineral aromas; forward green apple with flinty notes before a vibrant, citrus, lemon-lime palate driven by keen, juicy acidity with crisp apple skin in a clean finish.
One of a growing number of Vancouver Island wineries who’ve adopted this proprietary name, this Prosecco-styled Charmat sparkler sports a good mousse with bright orchard notes, green apple, zest and a flinty touch.
Gold in the glass, with lively, fine bubbles and a solid mousse. The house style that emerged from McWatters’ original trials yields stone fruit and berry notes on top before a nutty, toasty palate with textured leesy notes and a lengthy end.
“It was bizarre, pressing grapes for sparkling in one press and icewine in the other,” says the winemaker. However, the wine that resulted — cleverly named Franc de Noir — turned out very well.
THE NEXT GENERATION
Arguably the most committed, and so far only, exclusive BC sparkling producer is Bella Wines. Founder Jay Drysdale says “bubbles” became his “go-to” wine when he was a sommelier. He and his partner, Wendy Rose, established Bella in 2011. “Whether we had chosen bubbles or another varietal, I would’ve kept it super focused,” says Drysdale, who adds, “bubbles offer so many different expressions and variations; it’s become an amazing monster within itself.” Bella has grown from a mere 250 cases in 2011 to the around 2,000 cases it will produce in 2017, representing over a dozen different labels. When the couple’s recently planted four-acre vineyard comes fully on stream, they should be able to produce a total of 3,500 cases. They also work with three or four contrasting Naramata vineyard sites producing Chardonnay and Gamay. From Day One, Bella has doubled down on comparisons between different terroir, always allowing the fruit to speak for itself. “I really love the single vineyard expressions and that’s where I find more organic, sustainable options,” says Drysdale. This year, Bella made seven natural sparklers under its Ancestrale label, a reflection of “immense interest” in natural wines. “We can’t keep them in stock,” says Drysdale. “They’re almost the first to go, as the winery always sells out — this year [2016] by the end of July. I find there’s an appreciation for knowing what’s not in the wine. It’s the same with our ‘regular’ sustainable wines.” “Just as people are seeking out local or organic food products because they’re concerned about what they put in their body, it’s the same with wine. They like the authenticity and transparency that we offer.” Summerland’s Okanagan Crush Pad, also a relative newcomer, has brought the same kind of forward-thinking evident in the rest of its portfolio to its sparkling program. In a brief five years, Haywire has succeeded in adding one more sparkler to the BC fold that’s become a wine-loving household name. Alison Scholefield is Haywire’s sales ambassador — and she’s also the daughter of Christine Coletta and David Scholefield, formerly husband and wife, and now collaborators in Haywire. “The Bub” was Alison’s nickname as a baby and it seemed a natural segue to christen Haywire’s inaugural traditional method sparkler with the same name. Made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, The Bub’s clean, fresh, forward style and simple packaging was an instant hit, so much so that a Pink Bub, also bottle fermented, followed. More recently, Haywire-dedicated sparkling winemaker Jordan Kubek and winemaker Matt Dumayne have embarked on a natural wine program under the Narrative label, still using Pinot Noir and Chardonnay but with a secondary fermentation in custom Charmat tanks. “XC” (the Roman numeral for 90) sees 90 days of lees contact, while the Narrative Ancient Method is an entirely non-interventionist sparkling Chardonnay. Haywire is bullish on the future of bubble and has now embarked on a reserve program.
ISLAND TIME
The surge of bubbles is by no means restricted to the Okanagan. On Vancouver Island, a growing cadre of sparklers is testament to the fact that the Island’s more temperate climate and even variable vintages may well be beneficial. Stalwart Vigneti Zanatta (opened in 1992) pioneered sparkling wine on the island and has made traditional method wines for years, including the Glenora Fantasia Brut (100 percent Cayuga) and a Brut tradizionale (100 percent Pinot Noir). Venturi Schulz, also a trailblazer, was the first to employ a crown cap closure — and even hung a cork around the bottle neck to assuage the feelings of those who felt they were missing something. Blue Grouse winemaker Bailey Williamson made his first sparkler at Road 13, a perennially award-winning Chenin Blanc. “I like the process — that you have a couple of times in the production of the wine when you can influence its flavour profile. Also that you don’t need to have any complicated equipment. Because all you do is put the crown cap back on it.” Williamson notes that when the extra 7.5 acres planted this year come to fruition, the winery may well have to become more mechanized in its bubble production. “I figure I touch the bottle almost 100 times before it reaches the customer,” he suggests. “It’s amazing how much time and effort goes into it. In some ways, it’s very much a labour of love.” Sparkling wine, says Williamson, “is infinitely suitable for our region … When I first came here, out of every 10 years, you probably got three good vintages where you could make good wine. It seems to have changed now to the point that we get three that are not so good in 10 years.” Williamson thinks Island wines can “be the net benefactor” of climate change. “In those bad years, I will make all sparkling. And it will probably be the disgorging date that goes on the bottle rather than the vintage.” While several Island wineries have embraced Charmat to make their wines (there’s even an Island sparkling proprietary name, “Charme de l’Isle”), Williamson remains committed to traditional method. He understands the appeal that Charmat holds, especially in getting the wine to market more quickly. However, he says: “I like the [method] biscuit and leesy character.” Williamson says it’s exciting to be part of the journey. But he also acknowledges, “It takes time.” “Champagne didn’t just arrive on the scene. It took them a few hundred years to work on the process to figure it out and get their blends down. That’s what’s exciting for me. There’s a lot of room to experiment.” One more sign that BC bubble’s time has come is the pioneering Fitzpatrick family having transformed their Greata Ranch property into what they promise will be a premium sparkling wine house. On a west side bench overlooking Lake Okanagan, Fitzpatrick Family Vineyards loses its afternoon sun considerably earlier than elsewhere, notes Ross Fitzpatrick. All the more reason to devote most of the production to bubble, he suggests. In a region not short on impressive panoramas, the new winery and casual but polished bistro and reception centre boasts breathtaking views up and down the lake. No doubt this spectacular site will be a magnet for weddings and other events. And initial sips of “Fitz,” the inaugural Brut, suggests the wine is well deserving of the views. × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 29
Wine writers often get asked: “Is e For such a simple question, it reall TENUTA SAN GUIDO’S NICOLÒ INCISA DELLA ROCCHETTA
TOUGH QUESTIONS FEDERICO GIUNTINI MASSETI AT SELVAPIANA
30 × @QUENCH_MAG × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
by Michael Pinkus
expensive wine worth it?” ly is a tough one to answer.
ANTONIO MORETTI CUSERI FROM TENUTE SETTE PONTI
First off, as someone who has tried wines at a variety of price levels allow me to say that expensive wine seems to taste really good, but whether that is the price tag or the wine talking is really up for debate. Rumour has it that a wine shop in the UK once had a tasting on a Saturday between expensive wines and cheaper wines (clearly labelled) and the expensive wine won. On the Sunday, they switched the price tags on the bottles and re-did the tasting, and again the wine labelled as the “most expensive” won (mind over matter?). On the other hand, expensive wine should taste better. After all, you basically doubled, tripled or, in some cases, more than quadrupled your usual budget to get that bottle, so it had better taste like chocolate-honey-caramel-nougat wrapped in gold (or whatever your pinnacle of taste is). So, let’s be totally honest with each other: wine is a subjective beverage, especially when compared to other fruit juices that taste like the fruits they are from. While apple juice tastes like apples, pear nectar tastes like pears and cherry juice tastes as you would expect, vitis vinifera grape juice tastes like all kinds of things — from the mineral and stony qualities in Riesling to peaches and baked buttery apples in Chardonnay to sweet cherry and strawberry in Gamay to the winning combination of plums, chocolate and liquorice in Cabernet Sauvignon. No other juice gets the scrutiny and the volume of descriptors of wine. What one gets is very much in the eye of the beholder; wine truly follows the old adage: one man’s trash is another man’s treasure. So, when posed the question of whether expensive wine tastes better, my response should be structured in the form of a Jeopardy answer: Is expensive wine worth it to you? My other answer comes in the form of a parable. A person coming home to their spouse and friends for a party shares a $15 bottle of wine and, because they are enjoying themselves, that $15 bottle tastes fabulous. On the other hand, if that same person comes homes to an angry spouse after they have lost their job, a $250 bottle of first-growth Bordeaux of the best vintage will taste like a $5 bottle. Ultimately, wine is all about what is going on around you, or at least 80 percent of its enjoyment is. But if that were the case, I’d be out of a job, right? I’ve always seen my role as one of finding the great bottled values of the world, so that you don’t have to hope and pray that the crapshoot $15 bottle you bought is any good. Sure, paying more than $200 generally means a tasty wine, but can a $20 bottle be made to taste as good as a $200 bottle? Some have done that just by changing the price tag on the bottle (as the above anecdote attests), but others have also done it through what they put in the bottle. Allow me to turn my tongue towards Tuscany (unless otherwise noted) and some wines that offer great value and an alternative to expensive $50+ wines. I’ll also share some of what my momma refers to as “the more expensive spread” — you’ll notice that the one thing the “big” wines all have in common is that they need time. So maybe, just maybe, what you’re investing with them is your patience. FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 31
ROCCA DI CASTAGNOLI STIELLE GRAN SELEZIONE CHIANTI CLASSICO 2011 ($45.95) Lovely fruit with mocha cherry and elegant spice. Very tasty. Call this a mid-range bottle for pseudo-special occasions.
SAN FELICE CHIANTI CLASSICO 2013 ($19.95) Sweet dark fruit with a little floral, delicate herbal/spice but always with the fruit front and centre.
VILLA CAFAGGIO CHIANTI CLASSICO 2013 ($21.95)
TENUTA SAN GUIDO SASSICAIA 2013 ($212.95) This wine has so much going for it, including a longevity factor that could see you drinking it well into the 2030s. Mocha, herbal and spice lead the charge with complex dark fruit ready to get into the mix, but time is required for maximum enjoyment.
Raspberry and strawberry with elegant spice on the mid-palate.
WLUCE 2013 ($114.95)
BANFI ASKA 2013 ($24.95)
A woody character rules the roost for the moment, but there is fruit lying in wait, mostly of the dark variety. Good tannins with an elegant finish, this one needs a few years to come into its own.
Dark fruit, toasty oak, black cherry and blackberry with chocolate and smoky nuances. A real winner, even at $25.
VILLA TRASQUA NERENTO GRAN SELEZIONE CHIANTI CLASSICO 2010 ($39.95) Fruit-forward Chianti, offering balsamic cherries, nice woodsy notes with tannins, good acidity and a smoky finish. Gran Selezione takes Chianti to a whole new level.
TENUTE SETTE PONTI CROGNOLE 2013 ($29.95) Vanilla, cassis, white smoke, dark fruit, blueberry and elegant spice. A really pretty wine to sit and sip.
TENUTA SETTE PONTI ORENO 2013 ($79.95) Might be one of the best Orenos I have tasted over the years. Lively and fresh with dark fruit, it’s a beautiful mix of power and elegance. It can easily be enjoyed now or well into, and maybe past, 2025.
CASTELLO D’ALBOLA CHIANTI CLASSICO 2012 ($20) Soft, floral and plum notes are followed by mocha and spice.
SELVAPIANA CHIANTI RUFINA 2013 ($21.95) Red fruit with pepper, cinnamon and herbal notes.
BORGO SCOPETO BORGONERO 2013 ($19.95) Good value in a well-made, easy-drinking Tuscan blend with good structure and dark berries, this is an everyday selection.
MARCHESI DE FRESCOBALDI CAMPO AI SASSI ROSSO DI MONTALCINO 2013 ($21.95) Red liquorice, herbal and sweet cranberry; simplicity never tasted so good.
VICCHIOMAGGIO AGOSTINO PETRI RISERVA CHIANTI CLASSICO 2012 ($27.95) Red fruit and violets with a touch of leather, earth, smoke and nice grit on the finish. Nice balance to drink now or 2 to 5 years.
BANFI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2011 ($54.95) Deep and complex with blackberry, cassis, black raspberry and leather. Drink in 2018 and beyond. 32 × @QUENCH_MAG × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
QUINTARELLI VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO SUPERIORE 2008, VENETO ($104.95) Some people believe Valpolicella should be drunk young but Guiseppe Quintarelli is not one of them: he ages his longer in the barrel, giving them complexity you would not otherwise find in this usually “simple” wine. Ready to drink upon release, it can also still age. In this case, tasting is believing.
ANTINORI SOLAIA 2012 ($254.95) Earthy notes lead the charge here along with some black and blue fruits plus exotic spices. It seems a little disjointed at first, as things seem to just swoop in willy-nilly, but give it some time in glass and this one melds beautifully. Lay down until at least 2019.
ANTINORI GUADO AL TASSO 2013 ($104.95) Dried fruit meets fresh fruit along with white pepper and herbal characteristics all culminating in a long finish. A wine to drink now if well decanted but another few years will do it even more justice. Don’t rush a good thing.
ANTINORI CASTELLO DELLA SALA CERVARO DELLA SALA 2014, UMBRIA ($57.95) Usually you need to be in Burgundy or California to see a Chardonnay at this price point, but Antinori makes a case for Chardonnay in Umbria. I’m not completely sold on the idea, but in this case, this year, Antinori is onto something, hitting all the right notes for Chardonnay lovers.
ANTINORI PIAN DELLE VIGNE BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2011 ($61.95) Brunello isn’t a cheap wine to begin with, and putting the Antinori name on it means it costs a little more, but it’s worth it — the firm tannins, the herbal quality, the rich texture and the floral elements all combine to make a delightful and delicious wine to be enjoyed in early to mid-2020. ×
HOME GROWN by Gurvinder Bhatia
THE FRIULI REGION OF NORTHEAST ITALY IS BEST KNOWN FOR ITS WHITE GRAPES AND WINES, SUCH AS RIBOLLA GIALLA, FRIULANO, VERDUZZO AND PICOLIT, WHICH HAVE BEEN AVAILABLE IN OUR MARKET FOR YEARS. The red wines of the region, while important to the wine
industry there, have been less prevalent, particularly in international export markets. Beyond some medium-bodied, herbaceous and often unripe Merlots and Cabernets, consumers have only recently begun to be exposed to the high-quality red wines produced from the region’s native red grapes. It’s about time as the notoriety and demand for these red wines appears to be growing. Although Italy possesses a plethora of native grape varieties, few regions can match Friuli (or Campania) for its tremendous wealth of native grapes. On a recent trip, I had the opportunity to attend a conference in the town of Cividale del Friuli that focussed on the region’s red grapes. While Friuli possesses many native red grapes varieties, there are five that have the greatest significance.
REFOSCO
Refosco is actually a group of grapes so referring solely to Refosco as the grape or wine is incorrect. The two main types are Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso and the less common Refosco di Faedis. The former is probably Friuli’s best-known red grape and its impressive lineage attests to the fact that it is an ancient and noble grape variety. Genetic research has shown Teroldego (Trentino’s most important red grape variety) to be the parent of Lagrein and Marzemino, with the latter and an unknown parent giving birth to Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso. In addition, Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso is the parent of Corvina and grandparent of Rondinella, two important grape varieties used to make Valpolicella and Amarone wines.
Alessandra Felluga at Castello di Buttrio
Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso is a late-ripening grape that tends to produce dark red, medium-bodied wines with aromas and flavours of cherries, blackberries, fresh herbs and almonds with firm, sometimes aggressive tannins. When the grapes fail to ripen fully, the wines can be quite green and vegetal. Improved viticulture and vinification techniques (and arguably climate change) over the past 20 years has made this less of an issue, as evidenced by the lack of un-ripeness found in the majority of wines tasted during the conference. Officially known as Refosco Nostrano, local Friulan producers prefer to call the grape Refosco di Faedis, after the town considered to be the grape’s main centre of production. Compared with wines made from Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, Refosco di Faedis wines tend to be slightly fruitier, floral and spicy, with more elegant tannins, higher acidity and frequently possessing red liquorice notes. Though not as structured as Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, I found the Refosco di Faedis wines to be graceful, elegant, fresh and well built, with an engaging brightness and drinkability. It doesn’t appear that there are any Refosco di Faedis wines currently available in Canada, which is a shame because these wines, in general, were fresh, elegant and delicious, and great food wines. FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 33
Slightly herbaceous and red fruit aromas with flavours of bright cherry, fresh herbs. Remarkably soft tannins and a juicy finish.
fruit-laden tannins. Almost like Petite Sirah or a big Zinfandel in character, the wine is atypical of what most people’s preconceptions (or misconceptions) of what a Friulan red should be — namely lean, high acid and herbacious.
TENUTA CÀ BOLANI REFOSCO DAL PEDUNCOLO ROSSO 2015, DOC FRIULI AQUILEIA ($30)
SCARBOLO PIGNOLO 2011, DOC FRIULI COLLI ORIENTALI ($46)
Aromas and flavours of dark cherry and blackberry with bright, juicy acidity, notes of fresh herbs and firm, muscular tannins. 2015 was generally perceived to be a good vintage by producers as it was relatively warm with rain at the right times and a longer hang-time allowed for more even ripening of the grapes — important, as a characteristic of this grape variety is asynchronous maturation, even within individual grape bunches.
Well-crafted wine with loads of ripe berry and currant aromas and flavours. Bright acidity. Full and slightly edgy but with well-integrated, fruit-laden tannins, spice and a lush finish.
CADIBON REFOSCO DAL PEDUNCOLO ROSSO 2015, DOC FRIULI COLLI ORIENTALI ($32)
CASTELLO DI BUTTRIO REFOSCO DAL PEDUNCOLO ROSSO 2014, DOC FRIULI COLLI ORIENTALI ($32) Ruby red with aromas and flavours of dried cherries, currants and dried herbs. Minerally, focussed acidity. Medium-bodied with firm tannins on the finish. 2014 was a relatively rainy year.
AQUILA DEL TORRE REFOSCO DAL PEDUNCOLO ROSSO AT REFOSCO 2013, DOC FRIULI COLLI ORIENTALI ($30) Loads of dark cherry and blackberry character with well-integrated leafy notes. Earthy with firm, edgy tannins. Quite well constructed and balanced.
LIVON RIUL REFOSCO DAL PEDUNCOLO ROSSO 2013, DOC FRIULI COLLI ORIENTALI ($30) Ripe, juicy chocolate-covered cherries, fresh herbs and vanilla with lush tannins. The winery also does a version vinified and aged entirely in stainless steel, which would have been interesting to taste as a comparison.
MACOR GIANNI REFOSCO DI FAEDIS 2015, DOC FRIULI COLLI ORIENTALI ($26) Bright cherry and currant aromas and flavours with red liquorice and spice. Full, juicy, round tannins, lively acidity and a fresh finish.
GRAZIANO MOSOLO REFOSCO DI FAEDIS 2013, DOC FRIULI COLLI ORIENTALI ($28) Quite floral with dark red fruit, spice, earth and minerality. Bright acidity, lush tannins and well structured.
ZANI ELVIO REFOSCO DI FAEDIS, 2012 DOC FRIULI COLLI ORIENTALI ($32) Ruby red with floral notes of violets, ripe and concentrated red fruit, fresh herbs, liquorice and spice. Juicy, approachable tannins and lifted acidity on the finish.
PIGNOLO
Named for its small compact bunch (reminiscent of a pine cone), Pignolo produces wines that are dark, big and brawny with loads of ripe berry, juicy minerality, herbal notes and powerful, lush, 34 × @QUENCH_MAG × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
SPECOGNA PIGNOLO 2011, DOC FRIULI COLLI ORIENTALI ($50) Big, bold and fresh with ripe black cherry and blackcurrant fruit that is pure and focused with spice. Grippy, lush tannins with smoke and herbal notes on the finish.
LIVIO FELLUGA PIGNOLO 2009, DOC FRIULI COLLI ORIENTALI ($54) Rich with an abundance of bright fruit. Big, velvety tannins. Smoky and minerally with fresh herbs, currants, plums and blackberry.
TAZZELENGHE AND TERRANO
The two revelations of the tastings were Tazzelenghe and Terrano. In the local dialect, the former means “cuts the tongue” due to its high acidity levels and prevalent tannins. Tazzelenghe’s production remains limited to the area around the towns of Buttrio, Manzano, Rosazzo and Cividale. The wines tend to be bright, fresh and fragrant with aromas and flavours of violets, blackberries and currants, lively, focussed acidity, medium-weight and firm, but well integrated, angular tannins. Terrano is genetically related to Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso and produces wines that are deep coloured, fresh and bright with blueberry and blackberry flavours, minerally, juicy and focussed. The grape is typical of the Carso area of Friuli. Both Tazzelenghe and Terrano are perfect barbecue wines as their precise and chiselled acidity totally cuts through the fattiness of barbecued pork, brisket or burnt rib tips. However, if there are any Tazzelenghe or Terrano wines currently available in Canada, they are few and far between. It’s time for a few importers to get on it as the demand for these wines is growing and producers are thankfully considering new plantings due to the increased interest; the total hectares of vineyards for both is dangerously low.
COLUTTA GIANPAOLO TAZZELENGHE 2012, DOC FRIULI COLLI ORIENTALI ($36) Pretty floral aromas, concentrated blackberry and currants due to the grapes air drying on the vine. Hints of cocoa, racy acidity and relatively well-managed, elegant tannins.
SKERK TERRANO 2014, IGT VENEZIA GIULIA ($48) Fresh, lean, tart and juicy aromas and flavours of blueberry and blackberry. Bright acidity and minerality. Lively texture that is balanced and structured with a deliciously fresh lifted finish.
Cristian and Michele Specogna
JACUSS TAZZELENGHE 2012, DOC FRIULI COLLI ORIENTALI ($36)
acidity. Juicy, but not fruity, with bright acidity and a smooth texture. Difficult to stop drinking this one.
Fresh black cherry and currants, focussed acidity and firm but well-managed tannins with the ripeness of the fruit smoothing the edges. Immense drinkability. The grapes were not air-dried. Delicious.
LA TUNELLA SCHIOPPETTINO 2012, DOC FRIULI COLLI ORIENTALI ($32)
BAJTA TERRANO 2015, IGT VENEZIA GIULIA ($34) Deep coloured with lifted, bright acidity. Fresh, lean and focussed with a juicy, silky texture. Loads of fresh red berries and blueberries, mouth-watering salinity and a minerally finish. The freshness seems enhanced by the winery’s use of carbonic maceration.
SCHIOPPETTINO
Schioppettino is historically linked to the town of Prepotto and ironically it was a law created by the local government in 1976 that effectively impeded the planting of the grape, laying the path for what would have been the variety’s demise. A local rebellion thankfully resulted in the law being repealed and Schioppettino not just being included in the list of authorized grape varieties for the area but also listed as a recommended variety. The wines tend to be elegant, bright and perfumed with flavours of blackcurrant and black cherries with high acidity, smooth tannins and typical notes of green peppercorns.
CONTE D’ATTIMIS-MANIAGO SCHIOPPETTINO, 2013, DOC FRIULI COLLI ORIENTALI ($28) Well balanced and elegant. Quite peppery with minerality. Fresh
Structured and fleshy with lifted acidity, blackcurrant and black cherry fruit flavours and green peppercorn notes. The grapes were air dried for up to 30 days, which increases the intensity in the glass.
FLAIBANI SCHIOPPETTINO 2011, DOC FRIULI COLLI ORIENTALI ($46) Fresh, juicy and fruity with high acidity. Elegant and focussed with only a hint of the peppercorn character due to a warmer vintage. The producer views Schioppettino as Friuli’s Pinot Noir with a splash of Shiraz. Not a bad comparison.
GRILLO IOLE SCHIOPPETTINO DI PREPOTTO 2013, DOC FRIULI COLLI ORIENTALI ($50) Rich and concentrated with fresh black cherries, fresh herbs, green peppercorns, chewy tannins and a lifted finish. The red wines of Friuli are interesting, fresh and drinkable, with loads of character and a great affinity for food. And, importantly, they express the personality of the region. Native grapes are not a fad, but unless we support these distinct and delicious wines, they risk extinction. Just because names are unfamiliar or difficult to pronounce, that shouldn’t be a barrier. One taste is all you need. × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 35
OUT OF STATE
by Michaela Morris
It was a sunny September afternoon in Barolo. Local producers slowly trickled into the town castle’s regional enoteca from their nearby properties: Valentina Abbona and her father, Ernesto, from Marchesi di Barolo; Serena Marrone from her family’s eponymous estate in La Morra; and Roberto Damonte from Malvirà in Roero, among others. They’d come to meet Mick Unti from Unti Vineyards in Dry Creek, California, and Patrick Taylor, head winemaker at Oregon-based Cana’s Feast Winery. Both were straight off the plane and bleary-eyed but keen to present their wines made from the Italian grapes Arneis, Vermentino, Barbera and Nebbiolo. Organized by Barolo’s Collisioni Festival, the gathering was the brainchild of scientific director Dr. Ian D’Agata, author of Native Wine Grapes of Italy. There is no one more authoritative on the subject than Dr. D’Agata but he is equally enthusiastic about wines made from Italy’s grapes abroad. He also has a knack for bringing together the wine world’s most revered personalities. Yet the encounter was ego-free. The Italians brought their wines along as well and everyone was eager to try each other’s wares. Rather than passing judgement, the banter focused on rootstock, clones, soil, yields and wine-making techniques along with specific challenges and successes. This small and seemingly casual meet-up is indicative of an ever-growing interest in working with Italian grapes in wine regions around the globe. Though not unfamiliar on foreign soil, Italian varieties have never been as widespread or as successful as French grapes. For the better half of the last century, Italian wine quality was lacking and little was known about the country’s native grapes. As quality improved and more research was done, Italian wine stimulated winemakers around the globe to try their hand at Italy’s less travelled grapes. Ask any producer why they’re working with Italian grapes and they’ll start waxing lyrical about Italian wine in general. “We believe that Nebbiolo is one of the world’s greatest varieties and produces some of the world’s greatest wines,” proclaims Peter Saturno at Longview in Adelaide Hills. His compatriot Mark Day, winemaker for the Eccolo label puts it in even simpler terms: “I love drinking Sangiovese.” For Patrick Taylor, his desire to make Arneis in Oregon was inspired by benchmarks he enjoyed from renowned Piedmont producer Vietti. 36 × @QUENCH_MAG × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
Texture, savouriness and food-friendly acidity are what winemakers (and wine lovers) prize in Italian wines. “That twist of sour acid gets the stomach ready for food,” enthuses Gill Gordon-Smith, owner of Aussie label Fall From Grace. She, along with others who’ve embraced Italian grapes seek to capture those elements in their renditions. Winemaker Corrina Wright at Oliver’s Taranga Vineyards in McLaren Vale reasons, “We are coastal; seafood plays a large role in our lives, and smashing a voluptuous McLaren Vale Shiraz with a delicate King George Whiting fillet doesn’t always make sense!” Her vibrant whites from Fiano and Vermentino make a much more appropriate match. Producers are also looking to Italian varieties to bring diversity to their range. At last count, Italy boasted an enviable 548 genetically identified distinct grapes. What richness! Compare that with California, for example. “90 percent of their wines are made with only eight varieties,” declares Dr. D’Agata. In New Zealand, Hawke’s Bay’s Trinity Hill is out to prove that this Sauvignon Blanc-centric country has more to offer. Winemaker and viticulturist Warren Gibson explains their decision to planted Montepulciano. “The company was going through an ‘innovative phase,’ believing we should explore varieties outside the traditional francophilic boundaries.” Similarly, Ontario winemaker JL Groux at Stratus looked to Italy to bring complexity and personality to his flagship red blend. He decided to try out Sangiovese as Niagara-on-the-Lake sits at a similar latitude to Tuscany. “The reception from both consumers and critics alike has been very positive,” says Suzanne Janke, Director of Hospitality and Retail, “so we now bottle the half-acre planting as varietal Sangiovese.”
“THESE [ITALIAN] VARIETIES DON’T NEED TO HAVE ANY ACID ADDED, WHICH IS MUCH BETTER FROM MY ‘HANDS OFF’ WINEMAKING PERSPECTIVE.” CORRINA WRIGHT
But as Chris Tolley at Moon Curser in the Okanagan Valley points out, “plantings are only as appropriate as the wine is good.” He’s experimenting with Arneis, Dolcetto and Nebbiolo. While Tolley believes Arneis is suitable as it ripens early, likes sandy soils and isn’t too cold sensitive, he calls his two-year old Nebbiolo vines in Osoyoos “our sacrificial planting.” Only time will tell if that grape will be able to fully ripen in the Okanagan’s extreme climate. Howard Soon at Sandhill tried out Nebbiolo in 1995 but gave up after the grapes never turned beyond grey during veraison. Mick Unti is candid about his successes and disappointments in Dry Creek, California. He is thrilled with both Barbera and Vermentino, which retain their high natural acidity even in the warmest of vintages. Dolcetto, on the other hand, is his nemesis. He first planted it in 1998 and has only made wine from it seven times. “It has sucked every vintage. Even at low sugar and low physiological ripeness, the acid really starts to fall.” In Australia, Master of Wine David LeMire believes there are lots of opportunities for Italian varieties. “Our industry is based on French varieties, but not all our matches of variety and site have been great.” Italy’s heat- and drought-tolerant varieties make sense, especially for South Australia’s warmer and more arid reaches. According to Corrina Wright, “these varieties don’t need to have any acid added, which is much better from my ‘hands off’ winemaking perspective.”
Italian varieties have become so popular in Australia that the Riverina Winemakers Association launched an award program in 2016 specifically dedicated to wines made on Aussie soil from Italian native grapes. The learning curve, however, has been steep. When LeMire wrote his Master of Wine dissertation in 2006 on the suitability of Sangiovese and Nebbiolo in Australia, he identified several challenges. These included managing vigour, inferior clones, lower-density planting giving higher yields per vine and over-oaking and over-extracting in winemaking. A decade later, “people are getting more of a handle on the viticulture now,” asserts LeMire. “Some really good things are being done with these varieties by dedicated growers and makers.” Under his La Prova label, Sam Scott works with Sangiovese and Fiano from Adelaide Hills, Lagrein from Barossa Valley, and Montepulciano and Primitivo from Langhorne Creek, to name just a few. “They are a key part of our future,” he contends Despite a large population of Italian descent, Argentina appears more tentative in its endeavours with Italian varieties. Always at the forefront of research, Laura Catena speaks to Catena’s experience. “I think that our difficulties with Sangiovese got us off to a bad start.” She points specifically to its susceptibility to rot and high yields. “Maybe we didn’t have the right plant material,” she suggests. However, she is very FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 37
MARK AND PETER SATURNO
CANA’S FEAST REDMEN VINEYARD ARNEIS 2015, RIBBON RIDGE AVA, OREGON ($25)
first vintage where they’ve done a varietal bottling. Sour red cherry and sage with dusty dry tannins and lip-smacking acidity.
Pretty aromas of ripe pear, green almond and apple blossom carry through on the palate. Vibrant but round and textured with an underlying salinity that adds to its appeal.
UNTI VINEYARDS VERMENTINO 2015, DRY CREEK VALLEY, CALIFORNIA ($28)
OLIVER’S TARANGA VINEYARDS FIANO 2014, MCLAREN VALE, AUSTRALIA ($27)
You may very well be surprised by just how fresh and mouth-watering this Cali white is. Very restrained stone fruit with a lick of lemon, a hint of mint and lingering minerality.
Preserved citrus peel and apple marry well with nuances of basil and verbena. Medium weight and tactile yet ultimately light on its feet and brilliantly balanced.
LONGVIEW RISERVA NEBBIOLO 2014, ADELAIDE HILLS, AUSTRALIA ($45)
SEGHESIO SANGIOVESE 2013, ALEXANDER VALLEY, CALIFORNIA ($40) Planted in 1910, Seghesio’s Sangiovese vines are the oldest in America. Lush and dense red berries, plum, chewy tobacco and spice balanced by soft tannins and a refreshing lift of acidity.
LA STELLA ARIOSO SANGIOVESE 2012, OKANAGAN VALLEY BC VQA ($60) La Stella originally planted Sangiovese as a blending partner to give some crucial acidity to south Okanagan Merlot. This is the 38 × @QUENCH_MAG × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
Pale ruby colour and floral potpourri of rose and mint blossom speak to Nebbiolo. Strawberry, pencil and orange notes on the palate framed by fine ripe tannins and bright acid. A charming cousin that bears noteworthy resemblance to its family in Piedmont.
TRINITY HILL MONTEPULCIANO 2014, GIMBLETT GRAVELS, NEW ZEALAND ($50) Cool-climate New Zealand is an unlikely place for sun-loving Montepulciano but the heat-retaining soils of the Gimblett Gravels in Hawke’s Bay offer enough warmth to ripen this savoury, juicy, pure-fruited red.
“... NEBBIOLO IS ONE OF THE WORLD’S GREATEST VARIETIES AND PRODUCES SOME OF THE WORLD’S GREATEST WINES” PETER SATURNO
pleased with results from Ancellota planted in Eastern Mendoza and even happier about Catena’s 22-year-old two-hectare plot of Nebbiolo in the higher altitude area of Luján de Cuyo. She is now considering planting more. Beyond challenges or victories in the vineyard and winery, another concern is whether devoting time to nurturing Italian varieties makes business sense. Here, Laura Catena is candid. “We have such great success with Malbec, Chardonnay, Cab Sauv and Cab Franc that it is hard to make the investment.” As popular as Italian wine may be, its native grapes are still less known than grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Mark Day is delighted about his Sagrantino but states, “the main problem is the public willingness to try a variety they have never heard of and know nothing about.” Thankfully, passion still triumphs. “I can’t help myself, it is awesome working with new and exciting flavours,” gushes Sam Scott. Despite abandoning Nebbiolo, Howard Soon persists with Barbara and Sangiovese, concurs. “It would be a shame to rip them out if the wines are viewed as being difficult to sell.” As Gill Gordon-Smith says, “it’s all about education.” This starts with a better understanding of Italian wines and bringing awareness to the captivating grapes they are made from.
As wine lovers get to know these, they may be more willing to try a Nebbiolo from Australia, a Barbera from California, a Sangiovese from Canada or a Montepulciano from New Zealand. Venturing abroad is not an exercise in seeking carbon copies. Rather, it is the discovery of a grape variety’s interpretation in its new home. Hopefully it will demonstrate some recognizable variety characteristics but with its own individual flair. It’s impossible not to question what the Italians think about the New World’s efforts with their grapes. Which brings us back to that September afternoon in Barolo. To start, there was unanimous appreciation for Unti’s delightful and lively Vermentino. Of Cana’s Feast Arneis, Roberto Damonte described it as “a lot more savoury and saline than Roero’s but very clean and very pleasant.” Ernesto Abbona summed up the encounter in general: “It’s great to see this enthusiasm of young wine regions trying diverse wines. They’re getting better and better. We’re used to our grapes in Italy, but for you guys, it’s exciting.” It’s equally exciting for all wine enthusiasts. I, for one, am far from bored of Italian wines. The ever-increasing examples of wines from around the globe made from Italian native grapes are simply another satisfying way to quench our thirst. × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 39
HASTA BE PASTA
by Duncan Holmes
Right off the top, you have to agree that without all the good stuff that goes with it, “naked” pasta — no matter how cleverly it may have been fashioned — is about as ordinary-tasting as any food could possibly be. It figures. What else might you expect from a dried mix of durum-wheat semolina, maybe some egg and water? That’s it. Totally nothing. But take these brittle strands and shapes, quickly boil them in loads of water — “as salty as the Mediterranean” — then add some oil, garlic, meat, seafood, vegetables, sauce or any combination of some or all of these, and you’ll discover that these ornately fabricated creations are catalysts for some of the best tastes and funnest more fun — think sucking up spaghetti — foods to ever grace a table. What is “mac” without a yummy wash of cheese; spaghetti without a well-seasoned meat and tomato sauce; linguini sans garlic and olive oil; fettuccine without a good splash of Alfredo? And what about all of those sumptuous pasta allies like Bolognese, cacciatore, funghi, marinara, pesto, vongole and all of the other dress-it-up things that stuff us with carby satisfaction? Pasta really is quite magic. It’s as easy as pie to make just about any pasta main, it can perk up myriad salads and leftovers can be revitalized into meals as delicious as they were the first time ’round. Allegedly carried into Europe from China by clever Marco Polo, we thank him for a gift that in all its forms became a universal food favourite. I saw this quote on a pasta website that may further guide your endeavours: “An Italian would never pair angel hair pasta with a chunky meat sauce, nor would one cover tortellini in Alfredo sauce. And an Italian would never, ever use a spoon to eat pasta — unless that pasta is in soup.” I will add that pasta should never be overcooked. Bring your water to a rolling boil before you add the pasta you have chosen — in small amounts, to prevent it from sticking together. Al dente, a fancy way of saying “to the tooth,” is how your pasta should end up. Lift a strand from the boiling water with a fork, and when it has cooled, pull the strand apart. It will be just right when the centre of the strand remains uncooked. It will have an al dente bite to it when it’s drained in a colander, tossed, wound round your fork (in the case of stranded pasta) and eaten. 40 × @QUENCH_MAG × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
You may have heard that another way to test for al dente doneness is to toss a strand of spaghetti against a wall, and if it sticks, it’s done. By all means, try this at home. A mix of crushed garlic and olive oil is always a sure-fire and simple way of dressing your pasta. Try these two — one red, the other white — with any kind of pasta. They’re simple but great.
TOMATO SAUCE
3 cups canned whole tomatoes, drained 1 bay leaf Sprig of thyme 1 onion, sliced thin 1 garlic clove, crushed 2 tbsp butter 1 tbsp parsley, finely chopped 1 tbsp fresh basil leaves Place the tomatoes in a stainless-steel saucepan with the bay leaf and thyme. Add the onion and garlic. Bring to a boil, crushing the tomatoes as they heat and keep cooking over medium-high until they become a pulp, about 10 minutes. Remove the bay leaf and thyme. Continue cooking over low heat until you have a nice sauce. Whisk in the butter, then the parsley and basil. A teaspoon of sugar will smooth out the taste.
VELOUTÉ SAUCE
2 tbsp butter 2 tbsp flour 2 1/2 cups chicken stock
Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan over low heat and stir in the flour. Stir the mixture until smooth. Cook, stirring, for a couple of minutes. When your roux stops foaming and is a golden colour, pour in the stock and whisk until the mixture boils. Continue cooking over low heat for about 30 minutes, or until the mixture loses any floury taste. Toss with your favourite pasta.
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 41
SPAGHETTI BOLOGNESE
SERVES 4 TO 6 This is an old favourite that is truly comfort food.
1 tbsp olive oil 1 onion, finely chopped 1 carrot, finely chopped 1 celery stick, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, crushed 500 g ground beef 1/3 cup tomato paste 800 ml canned diced tomatoes (2 cans) 1 tsp dried oregano Pinch ground nutmeg 2 tsp sugar 1/2 cup cold water Salt and ground black pepper 500 g spaghetti Parmesan cheese, shaved, to serve Fresh basil leaves, to serve 1. Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium-high. Add onion, carrot, celery and garlic. Cook, stirring for 5 minutes or until softened. 2. Add ground beef. Cook, breaking up with a wooden spoon, for 6 to 8 minutes, or until browned. Add tomato paste, tomatoes, oregano, nutmeg, sugar and water. 3. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low. Simmer, uncovered, for 20 to 30 minutes or until thick. Season with salt and pepper. 4. Meanwhile, cook pasta in a large saucepan of boiling, salted water, until tender. Drain. Toss pasta with sauce and serve topped with cheese and fresh basil.
42 × @QUENCH_MAG × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
CHICKEN LASAGNA
SERVES 4 TO 6 This is a great dish to bring hot to the table. Place it on a trivet and let everyone help themselves. A simple green salad pairs well with all of this richness.
2 8 225 2 1 225 2 1 3/4 12
tbsp olive oil cups raw chicken, minced g bacon, chopped small garlic cloves, crushed lb leeks, sliced thin g carrots, diced tbsp tomato purée cups chicken stock sheets dried lasagna
SAUCE
4 tbsp butter 4 tbsp flour 2 1/2 cups milk 1/4 tsp mustard powder 1 cup grated Cheddar cheese, divided Salt and ground black pepper 1. Heat the oil in a heatproof Dutch oven and brown the chick-
en and bacon pieces. Add the garlic, leeks and carrot, and cook for about 5 minutes until softened. Add the tomato purée, stock and season with herbs of your choice to taste. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer for 30 minutes. 2. For the sauce, melt the butter in a saucepan, add the flour and gradually add the milk, stirring until smooth. Bring to a boil, stirring continuously until sauce thickens and then simmer for a few minutes. Add the mustard powder and half of the grated cheese, then season to taste. Don’t let the mixture burn. 3. Preheat the oven to 375˚F. Layer the chicken mixture, lasagna and half of the sauce in a 12-cup ovenproof dish, starting and finishing with the chicken mixture. Pour the remaining sauce overtop, sprinkling with the remaining cheese and bake in the oven for about 1 hour, or until lightly browned on top.
MACARONI AND CHEESE
SERVES 2 TO 4 I know it’s easy to get it in a box but it’s way better making it from scratch. You can add a mix of cheese to punch it — from a sharp cheddar to spicy Jura or percorino.
115 g macaroni 225 g cheddar cheese, shredded 1 1/4 cups hot milk 6 tbsp dry breadcrumbs 1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 green pepper, halved, seeded and finely chopped Parsley, finely chopped 3-4 scallions, finely chopped 1 tsp sea salt 2 eggs, beaten Paprika
1. Cook the macaroni in boiling, salted water until tender but firm. Drain. Pour the hot milk over the breadcrumbs and cheese in a big bowl. 2. Add the onion, green pepper, lots of parsley, the scallions and salt. Stir in the eggs, then mix in the cooked macaroni. Put the mixture into a buttered casserole dish and sprinkle with paprika. 3. Bake in a pre-heated 350˚F oven for about 30 minutes, or until the top of the mac and cheese is firm and golden brown. MATCH: Call the kids for dinner. For the adults, champagne!
PASTA, ASPARAGUS AND POTATO SALAD
Pasta salads are a great break from the usual. For this one, look for tiny potatoes or cut bigger ones into smaller pieces.
225 g pasta shapes, your choice 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil Salt and ground black pepper 350 g baby new potatoes 225 g fresh asparagus 115 g Parmesan cheese 1. Cook the pasta in salted boiling water. Drain and toss with the olive oil, salt and pepper while still warm. 2. Cook the potatoes in salted boiling water for about 15 minutes or until just tender. Drain and gently toss with the pasta. 3. Trim woody ends from the asparagus and halve the stalks. Blanch in salted boiling water for 6 minutes, until bright green and still crunchy. Drain, refresh in cold water, allow to cool and pat dry. 4. Toss the asparagus with the potatoes and pasta, sprinkle or shave the Parmesan overtop and serve.
FENNEL, APPLE AND PAPPARDELLE SALAD
This narrative recipe comes from friend Barbara-jo McIntosh, proprietor of Barbara-Jo’s Books to Cooks in Vancouver. “I like this salad best in autumn, when the apples are firm and full of flavour. (But you will always be able to find a crunchy apple.) While enjoying the fresh crunch of the fruit and vegetable with the warm pasta, I am reminded of warm summer evenings, but happy to be enjoying my fire and the cozy feeling only autumn can provide. I take one apple, peel and grate it into a pasta bowl. I zest about 1/2 teaspoon of lemon over the apple, then squeeze some fresh lemon juice over the apple. I take a fennel bulb — about the same size as the apple — and use my mandoline to slice the fennel over the apple. I then grate 1/4 teaspoon of fresh ginger — it must be fresh ginger, or don’t bother. Next add a hearty tablespoon of excellent olive oil, a pinch of sea salt and a grind of black pepper and mix about. Meanwhile, in a pot of boiling salted water, have 3 nests of pappardelle boiling away. Each package stipulates the time to boil. When ready, drain well and add to the fennel and apple. You may want to add a tad more oil. I then grate 1/4 cup of Parmesan cheese over the mixture. Often when you buy pappardelle it comes in little nest-like portions. But get as much pappardelle as you would like. I serve this with another salad of orange, avocado and romaine lettuce with olive oil, sea salt and black pepper.” × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 43
BE YOUR OWN CHANGE by Joanne Will
Mark Brand is one of Canada’s foremost social-impact entrepreneurs. In Vancouver, he’s created restaurants, lounges and a food community with a heart. From high-end dining to chic bars and a street-level token program to provide sandwiches to those in need (now being replicated in cities across North America), we talked to Mark about the gamut of his work. TELL US ABOUT WHAT YOU’VE BEEN DOING?
I’ve been in Vancouver for 11 years. I’ve created 11 businesses over my tenure in Gastown, which is coming up on what will be nine years. I currently operate a creative agency, our charity A Better Life Foundation, Save On Meats and all the sub-entities within it, and also Persephone Brewing and The Diamond. We’ve served over a million people out of Save On in just four years, and that’s people in our community. We’re extraordinarily proud of that number and of the amount of people who have come through our doors who have moved past needing Save On. Amongst the failures, there are so many successes that we’re incredibly proud of.
YOU’RE OPERATING AT THE EDGE OF THE DOWNTOWN EASTSIDE (DTES), A COMMUNITY STRUGGLING WITH HOMELESSNESS, ADDICTION, POVERTY. HOW DID YOU COME TO CARE SO MUCH ABOUT THIS NEIGHBOURHOOD AND THE ISSUES?
I was working in it. I was working with people in it. I got to know folks. I donated to a lot of agencies. I got to know the agencies and understand their work, and then I knew that this was my purpose. I just knew it, in my gut. I was like, okay, I know what I’m supposed to do. I speak everybody, that’s my language. I’m really good at 44 × @QUENCH_MAG × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
understanding all kinds of problems and building systems and weaving the fabrics of communities together. That’s my skill set. I know if I don’t apply this, I’m doing myself a disservice first of all because I won’t be genuinely happy, and secondly, I can really make some impacts here.
TELL US A BIT MORE ABOUT YOUR CHARITY.
A Better Life Foundation was created specifically to provide opportunity, through food — first of all to get people fed. Our thing is to feed and train employees. This is a 5-, 10-, 15-, 20-year plan, so we’re going to be around for a very long time. Our base work right now is feeding. Two, we make sure that people have the clearest minds to be able to do the work they need to do. And so we work with creating programs for large SRO (Single Room Occupancy) groups. Atira [Women’s Resource Society], we’ve been working with pretty much since Day One. We just started working with the Lookout Society with a prototype in one of their buildings, and they saw marked results. They’re blown away with the difference it makes. So we’re proving those metrics. And then people come to me: Youth Unlimited, an incredible organization — they do outreach, they’ve got buses that go out in the streets and meet youth where they are and do the work. I love these guys! They asked: hey, do you think you could provide food for our vis-
its when people are coming because ultimately they’re starving and food is also a great way to get people in the door. Yes, of course, we’ll get food for you. And all these other places. The DTES Women’s Centre, when they have a problem, they come to us and say, can you help us? We need these things. That’s what A Better Life is there to do: at the moment of crisis, to step up. Last year at Christmas, somebody stole the entire set of Christmas meals off the back of a truck before they were going to be delivered to an SRO that day. Those are the phone calls we get. “Hey, we’ve got 130 hungry people!” — and we swing into action. A Better Life will provide the funding for the group at Save On Meats to get to work: to get the food and get people fed.
DO YOU HAVE ADVICE FOR ANYONE WANTS TO MESH BEING A SOCIALLY RESPONSIBLE ENTREPRENEUR WITH BUSINESS PRINCIPLES?
The number one thing that has to be at the top of your mind is: do I love this? Do I deeply care about this issue? And if not, what issue do I deeply care about? Because lord knows, there’s a laundry list to choose from. Then align that with your business, and push all the edges. Find out who’s doing the work, what’s successful. What agencies can support you is the number one thing I tell people, because this work doesn’t go unsupported.
If you’re a new business person, and you’re thinking about starting a business, you need to take a long and sobering look at what your business metrics are. Is it a financial commitment you’re going to make, or an employment commitment — or both? Or is it a commitment to the planet? To start, set realistic goals. One of the main parts of this failing for people, over and over, is that they set crazy goals: “I’m going to start a business. I don’t have any money, and then I’m going to do this thing, and then I’m going to… ” Slow down, you don’t have to do it all at once. And the more intentional you are about it, and well-planned out, not only the more chance you have of success but of sustainability. Otherwise ultimately you’ll just disappoint yourself and others, and that’s not what anybody wants to do. Because I’ve done it, multiple times, and it sucks.
HOW DID YOU START OUT IN THE CULINARY REALM? HAS IT ALWAYS BEEN A PASSION?
I started cooking at a pizza shop in Dartmouth when I was 12. They let me work on PHOTO: ASHLEY BURNSTAD PHOTOGRAPHY
the weekends. I told them I was older than I was; they paid me cash in hand. I started working very, very early; I had a paper route years before that. On the East Coast, that’s not frowned upon. My whole family cooked due to necessity — they didn’t have money to eat out — so that was really part of my learning. Then, when I was in Australia, I started doing any job in a restaurant. It was bartender I wanted — that paid the most money — but I knew I had to work my way up to that position. So I started as a busboy and then did shifts on line, and then worked in kitchens and on the floor and behind the bar until I got really established as a DJ there and that sort of took my life over. I then came to Vancouver after being diagnosed with an illness, and started again from scratch. I was the second bar manager at Chambar. I took that position and really ran with it and that established my career in Vancouver. I was the first “Bartender of the Year” in Van. Then when we opened our restaurants. As it happens, my pastry chef quit so I did pastry for three months. We were down two line cooks so I was on line on a Friday night cooking with chef
Jérémie Bastien. We opened The Diamond, and I’m cooking for the first three months while we stabilize. And so on and so forth. So culinary has always been part of my tool kit and something I really love, and luckily still get to do a lot of. I get to do dinners — I’m doing one next week in San Francisco. I’ve got my Greasy Spoon Diner, which is a series we do in Vancouver, and lots of other cooking things I’ve had the opportunty to do all over the planet in the last couple of years.
THIS JOURNEY HAS EVEN TAKEN YOU TO STANFORD, WHERE YOU’LL CONCLUDE A UNIQUE FELLOWSHIP AT THE D.SCHOOL LATER THIS YEAR. TELL US ABOUT THAT.
Long story short, the Knight Foundation funds five civic innovation fellows working on different problems that can be scaled internationally. And so my focus is, I’m working on homelessness, street entrenchment and activating all these nodes. We created Save On, the Token Project, 12 other programs and our charity FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 45
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and all those pieces out of that space in five years. I was seeing some really great successes and traction with people getting fed, the change in their behaviour and willingness to achieve upward mobility. Simply from not just having the food but also having a community and people to be connected to, and being able to help others, and then wanting to get into employment and give that a shot, because previously they didn’t think that anybody cared about them. Ultimately service agencies are disconnected because people are either really burnt out or just overworked, and resources aren’t managed properly a lot of the time. So this was like: oh, somebody from the community doesn’t just care about me one day a year, they want to support me all year round, and not just somebody but 138 people at this place that I can go to anytime I want. So it was like, wow, how do we magnify this and then also connect to all the other people doing this work in a meaningful way? Every person I’d meet when I’d go on the road, or was speaking, for the past five years, they’d be proud to show me their agencies. I’d say, this is great, do you know about X doing this work? And almost 100 percent of the time people would say, no, they’d never heard of them. And I’d tell them, it’s just down the street. People were working in silos and the problems were getting deeper and bigger. I was in a thing called THNK, based out of Vancouver, that originally started in Amsterdam. In it, I learned some very strong design thinking and leadership skills and created a project called Positive Access Link, which is to be a digital medium to sort of fill the white space between all these different issues. So, you’ve got the “ladder of homelessness” and that could be street entrenchment all the way up to living in Single Room Occupancy and on their way into housing. The second one is “agency” and that could be government, NGOs, NPOs, the CSR department at Walmart — all of these folks who really have the tools and the resources to help but are working completely siloed. Finally, the empathetic giver: you or I walk by somebody on the street, hear about a story and wish there was something we could f***ing do about that but
we just don’t know how. So, we’ve got money, we’ve got agency, we’ve got willpower, we’ve got empathetic people by the tens of thousands. That was proven to me when we did our 90,000th redemption of the Token Program in the DTES. There’s no lack of want to help people. And then we’ve got what is relatively small in comparison to our populations: issues of homeless and poverty that we have the resources to fix. So, Stanford heard I was working on this thing, and approached me. You can imagine that phone call. I thought, is it April 1? Which one of my friends is screwing with me? They asked me to come do a fellowship as an adjunct lecturer. I said, you know I have high school, right? I just blurted it out!
AND IT JUST KEEPS GOING; YOUR SCHEDULE DOESN’T SLOW DOWN AFTER THIS. DOES PUTTING YOUR INTENTION OUT THERE BRING OPPORTUNITIES TO YOU?
You know, it’s really exciting. I feel like the opportunities just keep arriving, and I’ve got bandwidth, and I continue to build the team. Because there’s space, and there’s space in my life to keep going. And as long as that’s the truth, then I’m going to keep adding because there’s no time like now. You manifest everything, whatever your passion is. I didn’t come into this with a bankroll. We started our first restaurant and painted it, built it ourselves on $89,000, which is credit card debt, et cetera. That’s how I got my start, with all of our businesses. I just believed so deeply, and continue to, and manifested the opportunities. You know when you resonate in the world that way and show up as your true self every day, there’s no other opportunity. You piss a lot of people off, but the flipside of that anger is it’s very much like empathy: all of the positive people gravitate towards you. I’m touring Apple’s lab in Cupertino in two weeks. They came to me. Stanford came to me. So you manifest that stuff, you do the work, manifest it. I don’t mean I sit in meditation in the morning saying I’m going to be X; I mean, I just live very intentionally. And it works. ×
BOUQUET GARNI BY NANCY JOHNSON
MISE EN PLACE I WISH I LIVED MISE EN PLACE. That would mean everything in my life was in its proper place. But one quick look at my stuff scattered all over my home from bedroom to living room to basement, and I’m forced to admit my mise is definitely not en place. For the professional chef, mise en place is not just the way ingredients are organized and prepared prior to firing up the burners. It’s a way of life, from the pots cleaned, dried and hung on the appropriate hook the night before, to the chef’s ability to seize the day the moment the kitchen opens. Although most of my home looks like I’m in the process of moving out or possibly a tornado has rumbled through it, my kitchen is a sparkling example of how I roll with mise en place — a place for everything and everything in its place. Mirepoix chopped and ready to go. Tomatoes blanched, seeded and peeled. Meat sliced, marinated, dry-rubbed or seasoned. Oil, butter and spices measured out; lemons juiced and zested. Grasping this concept at culinary school was probably one of the single most important lessons I learned. While it takes time to run a shipshape kitchen, it makes cooking a breeze. Which gives me time to pick up the 15 pairs of shoes hanging out in the hallway.
BEEF GOULASH
SERVES 6 A hearty winter stew from medieval Hungary. Today, there are many versions of goulash throughout central Europe, depending on the cook and the country. This dish is a fairly basic version — excellent when served over potato pancakes or buttery noodles.
1 boneless beef chuck roast, cut into cubes (3 lb) Salt and pepper, to taste 1/4 cup sweet Hungarian paprika 3 tbsp olive oil 2 large onions, minced 4 cloves garlic, minced 2 tbsp tomato paste 1/4 cup flour 3 cups beef broth 1 red bell pepper, diced Sour cream and minced fresh parsley, for garnish 1. Heat oven to 325˚F. 2. Pat beef dry. Season with salt and pepper and about 1 tbsp
paprika. In a Dutch oven, heat 1 tbsp olive oil. Brown meat in two batches, adding 1 additional tbsp oil for the second batch. Transfer meat to a platter and set aside. 3. Add remaining tbsp oil to the Dutch oven. Add onions and the remaining paprika. Season with salt to taste. Cook over medium heat until onions soften, about 5–7 minutes. 4. Stir in garlic and tomato paste. Cook, stirring about 30 seconds. Stir in flour. Cook, stirring, 1 minute. Stir in broth, scraping up browned bits. 5. Return beef to Dutch oven, with its accumulated juices. Bring to a boil, cover, and transfer to oven. Cook 1 hour and 20 minutes. Stir in red peppers. 6. Cook an additional 40 minutes or until meat is tender. Serve with a dollop of sour cream and a sprinkle of minced parsley. MATCH: A German or Hungarian lager is a great match.
× Search through a wide range of wine-friendly recipes on quench.me/recipes/
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 47
BAKED EGGS AND HAM
MAKES 4 SERVINGS This is the quintessential cold-weather dish, fabulous morning, noon or night. This recipe is just a starter. Change it up with bacon, peameal bacon or cooked sausage. Add roasted red or hot peppers, sautéed shallots, mushrooms, chopped cherry tomatoes or chopped Kalamata olives. It’s delicious with shredded smoked gouda, Jarlsberg or provolone cheese. Garnish with fresh minced mixed herbs, if desired.
6 eggs, beaten 1/2 cup milk 1/2 tsp dry mustard 2 scallions, minced 1 cup ham, diced 1 cup sharp Cheddar cheese, shredded Salt and pepper, to taste 1. Heat oven to 350˚F. 2. Butter an 8 x 8” baking dish. 3. In a large bowl, whisk eggs, milk and dry mustard. Pour into
prepared dish. Sprinkle scallions, ham and cheese over the eggs. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes or until a knife inserted in the centre comes out clean. MATCH: Great with mimosas (equal parts Champagne and orange juice), garnished with a strawberry.
CHICKEN LO MEIN
SERVES 4 TO 6 Asian food always calls for some serious mise en place. This recipe uses lo mein noodles, but in a pinch, I’ve used linguine instead. You should really make the marinade twice — once as a simple marinade and once as the sauce. Some cooks simply boil the reserved marinade to use as a sauce but in the interest of food safety, I always start all over again to make a clean, bacteria-free sauce. For the record, I only use low-sodium broth and soy sauce. Now get out your chef’s knife and start chopping.
1 cup chicken broth 3 tbsp soy sauce 2 tbsp rice vinegar 1 tbsp toasted sesame oil 1 tbsp brown sugar 1 tbsp cornstarch 3 boneless chicken fillets, cut into 1-inch cubes 1 tbsp canola oil 1 cup broccoli florets, chopped 1 cup sweet red or yellow bell pepper, chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 scallions, white part minced (mince and save greens for garnish) 1 package lo mein noodles, cooked according to package directions Toasted sesame seeds, for garnish 48 × @QUENCH_MAG × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
LO MEIN SAUCE
1 3 2 1 1 1
cup chicken broth tbsp soy sauce tbsp rice vinegar tbsp toasted sesame oil tbsp brown sugar tbsp cornstarch mixed with 2 tbsp cold water
1. In a large bowl, whisk broth, soy sauce, vinegar, sesame oil, brown sugar and cornstarch. Add chicken and marinate in refrigerator 30 minutes. 2. In a large wok or skillet, heat oil over high heat. Remove chicken from marinade. Discard marinade. Stir-fry chicken in batches until cooked through, about 3 minutes per side. Remove from wok and set aside. 3. Add broccoli, bell pepper, garlic and scallions. Stir-fry until vegetables are crisp-tender, about 3 minutes. 4. Meanwhile, for the sauce: in medium saucepan, whisk chicken broth, soy sauce, vinegar, sesame oil and brown sugar over medium-high heat. Whisk in cornstarch/water mixture and bring to boil. Remove from heat when sauce thickens. 5. Add chicken and sauce to vegetables in wok. Heat through. Toss with lo mein noodles. Garnish with scallion and sesame seeds. MATCH: Serve with Gewürtztraminer.
CHICKEN WITH APPLES
SERVES 4 Apples are always easy to find and nothing is more delicious than baked apples, paired here with chicken thighs in a honey-mustard sauce. Chicken thighs are an economical choice, and often much juicier and tastier than chicken breasts.
8 skin-on bone-in chicken thighs Salt and pepper, to taste 2 tbsp olive oil 1 onion, cut into chunks 2 cooking apples, cut into chunks 1 cup chicken broth 3 tbsp honey mustard Paprika 2 tsp butter, softened 1. Heat oven to 450˚F. 2. Season chicken with salt and pepper. In a large oven-proof
skillet, heat olive oil. Add chicken in batches, skin-side down, cooking over medium heat until golden (about 6 minutes). 3. Flip and cook 3 minutes more. Remove from skillet. Reserve 2 tbsp drippings in skillet. Add onions and apples to skillet, cooking until softened (about 4 minutes). 4. In a small bowl, mix the broth with the mustard, add to the skillet and bring to a boil. Add chicken. Sprinkle lightly with paprika. Transfer skillet to oven. 5. Roast until chicken is cooked through, about 20 minutes or until a meat thermometer registers 165˚F. Whisk butter into pan juices before serving. ×
NOTED 92 SOUMAH SINGLE VINEYARD CHARDONNAY 2015, YARRA VALLEY, WESTERN VICTORIA, AUSTRALIA ($32)
94 VILLARD EXPRESIÓN RESERVE SYRAH 2012, CASABLANCA VALLEY, CHILE ($11.67)
This is a mix of 3 clones, wild-fermented and aged in a mix of oak barriques and puncheons (20% new) for a layover of 8 months. Earthy throughout, with an alluring reductive edge: salty, wild herbs, and brisk white grapefruit pith brightening a leesy, green-fig core. Tight, driven and focused, this finessed wine has energy enough to enjoy very much now in youth, or to hold for the future. (TR)
Clear, but so dark as to be opaque, plum red. Powerful nose of road tar (in a good way), strawberry jam and wood. Tastes of fresh fruit (despite the aroma) such as redcurrants and cranberries, with good acidity. Will last another year, but won’t improve much. Very good value. (RL)*
The Loire Valley is the true home of the Chenin grape, and with it they make every possible wine style, from dry to very sweet, even sparkling. This 20-year-old “sticky” shows a dark golden colour, a complex nose of flintstone, dried herbs, smoke and discreet fruity notes. The mouthfeel is very open, fresh and intense; sugar is not overwhelming at all, it merely amplifies the flavours and contributes to a great balance. A real treat with foie gras canapés. (GBQc)
93 HIDDEN BENCH NATUR ZERO DOSAGE 2011, NIAGARA ($45)
For a first effort, this sure hits all the right notes out of the gate. The wine shows a fine and sustained bead of bubbles in the glass and offers aromas of lemon, creamy pear, toast and brioche. It’s electric on the palate, driven by firm acidity and citrus zest that offers complexity, verve, freshness and flinty minerality. (RV)
91 INDIGENOUS WORLD HEEHEE-TEL-KIN RED BLEND 2013, OKANAGAN ($18.49)
Blend of 60/40 Cabernet Franc/Merlot from Black Sage Bench yields luscious red fruit and mulberry notes, with approachable tannins and layered depth. Quite complex with a lingering finish. (TP)
92 MOULIN TOUCHAIS 1996, COTEAUX DU LAYON, LOIRE VALLEY, FRANCE ($46.75)
93 TIME ESTATE SYRAH 2013, OKANAGAN ($35)
Nose of blueberry, boysenberry, white pepper, forest floor, anise, blackcurrants and barrel spices. The palate reveals sweet spices, pepper, savoury notes, supple tannins, herbs, smoke, a range of dark fruits and wonderful length on the finish. You can cellar or drink this wine right now — it’s irresistible. (RV)
90 INTRIGUE RIESLING 2015, OKANAGAN ($16.90)
Gray Monk assistant winemaker Roger Wong makes his own wines nearby at ever-maturing Intrigue. Apples and peaches on the nose followed by a juicy apple and citrus-toned palate defined by juicy acidity. (TP)
× Find a collection of tasting notes for wine, beer and spirits at quench.me/thenotes/
92 TAWSE VAN BERS VINEYARD CABERNET FRANC 2012, NIAGARA ($50) Brambly red fruits, forest floor, toasted barrel spices, stewed herbs and red plums. This is serious Cab Franc with rich and savoury red fruits, lovely oak spice, firm tannins and the stuffing to improve for a decade or more. (RV)
91 CONDE VALDEMAR GRAN RESERVA 2007, RIOJA, SPAIN ($29.95)
Spicy, sandalwood, vanilla oak and plum bouquet on the nose; medium-bodied with a flavour of cooked plums carried on lively acidity; mature plum and blackcurrant flavours on the finish with firm tannins. (TA)
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 49
Each wine is judged on its own merits, in its respective category. Our scores are based on the wine's quality as well as price point. Readers should assess these, and all wines, using the same criteria. Carefully study the commentaries to get an idea of whether the wine might appeal to your taste. The prices listed are suggested retail prices and may vary from province to province. Since a large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada, check with your local liquor board or private wine store for availability. Our tasters are Tony Aspler, Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart, Evan Saviolidis, Rick VanSickle, Ron Liteplo, Harry Hertscheg, Sean Wood, Gilles Bois, Sarah Parniak, Crystal Luxmore, Treve Ring, Tim Pawsey, Silvana Lau and Jonathan Smithe. QUENCH USES THE 100-POINT SCALE 95-100 = Exceptional 90-94 = Excellent 85-89 = Very good
SPARKLING 92 NARRATIVE ANCIENT METHOD 2015, OKANAGAN ($40)
100% Pinot Noir sparkling made in the ancient method (pét-nat) and bottled with 22 g residual sugar during primary fermentation, forgoing any additives or stabilization. A bready/yeasty entry with rich apple, muted citrus and a lovely floral note on the nose. It’s bright and energetic on the palate with a persistent mousse and flavours of citrus rind, tart apple and toast that all lead to a fresh and finessed finish. (RV)
92 HENRY OF PELHAM CUVÉE CATHARINE ESTATE BLANC DE BLANC CARTE BLANCHE 2011, NIAGARA ($45)
Such a treat and always one of the top sparklers in Ontario. The nose shows lemon, toast, brioche, vanilla, apple and lime. Pours a fine, persistent bead of bubbles. It’s bright and electric on the palate with flavours of lemon and lime, baked apple, toasted almond and spice with lovely freshness and finesse through the finish. (RV)
92 VEUVE CLICQUOT 2004, CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE ($95)
A classic Champagne from a very good vintage showing complex, bottle-aged 50 × @QUENCH_MAG × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
80-84 = Good 75-79 = Acceptable 70 & under = Below average *Available through wine clubs
development with deep colour and a toasty rich, spicy bouquet. Rounded and well-integrated flavours are supported by surprisingly soft mousse, still bracing acidity and a long, complex finish. At its peak now but should be drunk over the next couple of years. (SW)
92 CHAMPAGNE BOLLINGER ROSÉ BRUT NV, AOC CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE ($100)
This pink fizz blends the power of Bolly with the generous fruit of rosé, resulting in a savoury, serious Champagne. Creamy and expansive on the full palate, with pink florals, light cherry, bright juicy strawberry and fine persistent bead of acidity through the finish. Powerful, with partial oak ferment and ample time on the lees to up the mouthfeel and presence. 62/24/14 Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier plus 5 to 6% still red wine (Pinot Noir) is at least 85% Grand Cru and Premier Cru fruit. (TR)
91 KWV CATHEDRAL CELLAR BLANC DE BLANC BRUT 2010, PAARL, SOUTH AFRICA ($16.95)
If you like sparkling wine in Champagne style, then don’t miss this terrific bubbly from South Africa at a bargain price. Golden straw in colour, it offers a toasty, smoky nose of brioche and honey; it’s dry, medium-bodied but rich and full on the palate with a toasty, nutty, apple and honey flavour with fresh lemony acidity. (TA)
91 GRAHAM BECK BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS 2011, WO ROBERTSON, SOUTH AFRICA ($30) Winemaker Pieter Ferreira is one of the leading proponents of the MCC (Methode Cap Classique), and a globally recognized fizz specialist. Graham Beck is transitioning to a 100% sparkling wine house, a move propelled by his skill at the style. This fresh, focused Chardonnay was whole-bunch pressed, 50% fermented in oak barrels (7% new barrels) before 36 months on the lees. Disgorged in 2014, this yields a fine balance between subtle tangerine pith and gently creamy, biscuit-laced lees. You can feel the wake of the region’s warmth on the finish, though this crisp and saline fizz rings with freshness. Robertson has a high proportion of limestone soils and this Chardonnay is predominantly sited on them. A celebration ready for any occasion. (TR)
90 HENRY OF PELHAM CUVÉE CATHARINE CARTE BLANCHE BLANC DE BLANC 2011, SHORT HILLS BENCH, ONTARIO ($44.95)
Made in the traditional method, from 100% Chardonnay grapes, and aged for 5 years on its yeast cells. Lots of bread/ toast, lemon, green apple and nuts here. Elegant and refined with fine bubbles and creamy texture. Pair with lobster and drawn butter or oysters on the half shell. (ES)
89 TENUTA S ANNA PROSECCO SUPERIORE DI VALDOBBIADENE DOCG, ITALY ($20)
A delightful and classic Prosecco at a price hard to ignore. It has a nose of citrus, pear, white peach and toasty/salinity notes to go with a vigorous mousse. The palate reveals generous flavours of lemon, citrus rind, peach and apple with subtle toasted almonds that all lead to a zesty finish. (RV)
89 CANELLA PROSECCO CONEGLIANO VALDOBBIADENE SUPERIORE 2015, DOCG MILLESIMATO, VENETO, ITALY ($22)
The vintage date is your first indication that this is higher quality than your regular Prosecco. Delicate pear, subtle white florals, white peach and green apple are joined by an appealing stoniness and brightened with crystalline lemon, finishing pithy and lifted. On the dryer side, and serious enough to take on the dinner table. Well done. (TR)
89 BAILLY-LAPIERRE CHARDONNAY CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE, BURGUNDY, FRANCE ($24.95)
Very pale yellow. Impressive nose of bread crust, biscuit, fresh mushroom and a floral hint. Balanced and round on the palate, the light fruity taste features a small note of rancio in the finish for added complexity. Great buy. (GBQc)
89 DOMAINE BELLUARD MONT BLANC BRUT ZERO 2011, AOC VIN DE SAVOIE PROTÉGÉE, FRANCE ($55)
This is the first, and probably only, 100% Grignet you’ve tried. Dominique Belluard is credited with saving this nearly-extinct indigenous grape. More than half of the Grignet in the world is found in their vineyards, with the remainder from small neighbouring plots. This wine comes from the highest part of their biodynamic vineyards, grown on clay and limestone soils. Fermented wild in clay egg and amphora, this traditional method sparkling is zero dosage and has spent 3 years on the lees. The autolytic character is a striking contrast to the sharp, pithy acidity and light body. Old-spice musk, floral, perfumed red apple flavours/racy green apple crispness, lemon pith, mountain herbs and broken stones are imbued
with a brie/lees earthiness. Acidity is racy, driving to a shimmery glow on the finish. Complex. Not an easy wine, but a worthwhile wine. (TR)
13.5% alcohol. Drinking well now in its young age, but will hold and mature over the next decade easy. Cellar-worthy, if you can afford it. (TR)
88 SARTORI PROSECCO, ITALY ($20)
90 BRIAR RIDGE EARLY HARVEST SÉMILLON 2014, HUNTER VALLEY ($19.83)
Opens with inviting floral and ripe apple scents and a hint of vanilla spiciness. Generous ripe apple and pear flavours are supported by gentle, refreshing fizz, a touch of sweetness and well-balanced acidity. (SW)
88 EVOLVE PINOT BLANC MERLOT PINK EFFERVESCENCE NV, OKANAGAN ($19.90)
Off-dry, workhorse Charmat sparkler with strawberry and pale red berry tones, slight acidity and refreshing end. Food-flexible and easy-drinking. (TP)
86 BAILLY-LAPIERRE PINOT NOIR CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE, BURGUNDY, FRANCE ($23.95)
Very pale, fine bubbles. The nose is mostly mineral (chalk) with notes of green apple and a floral hint. Compact and unidimensional on the palate, it has a simple taste but is well balanced and refreshing. Finish is short. Drink soon. (GBQc)
WHITE AUSTRALIA 91 LEEUWIN ESTATE ART SERIES CHARDONNAY 2013, MARGARET RIVER ($126)
The wine that has famously been called “Australia’s best Chardonnay,” this royal, refined Margaret River Chardy certainly impresses. Partial skin contact and partial wild yeast, this was entirely barrel-fermented in new French oak barriques with regular lees stirring for 11 months. Rich, almost thick in the mouth, creamy and lees-led, with flickers of eraser/reduction, stone fruits, lemon curd and roasted almonds streamed along a vein of lemon acidity. Oak is certainly evident, though well integrated into the depth of all this fruit. The concentration is even more impressive considering its
Clear, pale silvery yellow. Medium-intensity nose, like a piña colada with added ripe apple. Light bodied; tastes of light lemonade with a dash of honey. Bright acidity with a surprisingly long finish. Will get more complex with another year or 2. A go-to wine to drink with “difficult-to-match” vegetables like asparagus, artichokes and bell peppers. (RL)*
CANADA 94 HIDDEN BENCH NUIT BLANCHE ROSOMEL VINEYARD 2014, NIAGARA ($40)
This is simply one of the best whites Hidden Bench has made. Period. This blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon has an attractive nose of heaven-scented spice, baked apple and grapefruit, figs, pear and grassy-fine herb notes. It’s simply gorgeous in the mouth: multi-layered, highly structured, polished and elegant from the tip of the tongue to the finish. Such verve and elegance driven by creamy fruit, fine oak spices and complexity that will reward further pleasure with time in the cellar. (RV)
93 HIDDEN BENCH CHARDONNAY TÊTE DE CUVÉE 2013, NIAGARA ($48)
This is magnificent, a beautiful Chardonnay with a nose of creamy pear, baked apple, spice and a fine vein of minerality. Such purity of fruit on the palate, a mélange of stone fruit and lemon with a creamy texture and spicy bite that amplifies the minerals extracted from deep in the vineyards. Freshening acidity props up this gorgeous wine through a long, elegantly appointed finish. (RV)
92 TINHORN CHARDONNAY 2015, OKANAGAN ($19.49)
A blend from 4 different blocks on Black Sage results in a complex wine with orchard and tropical fruit on the nose. FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 51
NOTED Citrus hints, followed by a well-textured, balanced palate of luscious stonefruit, citrus and well-balanced oak with a subtle toasty, vibrant lingering end. (TP)
92 CULMINA HAUT-PLATEAU NO. 001 RIESLING 2015, OKANAGAN ($30)
Intense nose of pear, lemon, river-rock minerality, lime zest and a hint of ginger. Rich, textured, almost creamy, with laser-sharp acidity propelling the quince, citrus, minerals and wild honey notes on the palate. Impeccable balance, purity of fruit with crucial notes of zesty lime on the finish. (RV)
92 QUAILS’ GATE ROSEMARY’S BLOCK CHARDONNAY 2014, OKANAGAN ($30)
Vibrant aromas of floral, citrus and orchard fruits, followed by an elegant, creamy palate from well managed French oak and lees aging. Textured mouthfeel with mineral undertones, some zesty notes, overall elegance and great length. Excellent value. (TP)
91 BORDERTOWN GERWÜRZTRAMINER 2015, OKANAGAN ($20)
Lifted tropical and rose petal precede a classic varietal palate of well-balanced fruit and acidity on a generous palate with flavours of lychee, peach and a hint of spice in the lingering close. (TP)
91 BURROWING OWL CHARDONNAY 2014, OKANAGAN ($25)
Upfront tropical and orchard fruit before a complex, layered palate of pineapple and mango, with pronounced lemon-lime in the middle; some toasty notes, superb texture and generous mouthfeel. Lengthy, silky, layered finish. (TP)
90 GRAY MONK PINOT GRIS 2015, OKANAGAN ($15.99) Aromas of stone fruit, peach and nectarine before a generous and juicy, well-structured palate defined by apple and pear notes. A streak of lemon zest underpinned by keen acidity. (TP)
90 TIME WHITE MERITAGE 2014, OKANAGAN ($22.99)
From the recently sold Sundial Vineyard, 52 × @QUENCH_MAG × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
2/3 Sauvignon Blanc with 1/3 Sémillon. Creamy vanilla and toasty notes on top precede a leesy, textured palate of orchard and stone fruit. This will likely be the 1 of the 2 last vintages of a once-iconic BC white blend, the grapes to be pulled out to make way for more red Bordeaux varieties. (TP)
90 HAYWIRE WATERS & BANKS SAUVIGNON BLANC 2015, OKANAGAN ($25)
From the limestone and granite soils of Trout Lake Canyon in Summerland. Gooseberry, sage and herbal notes on top with a palate defined by bright acidity, mineral and complex layers with tropical and orchard fruits before a pith, zesty end. (TP)
90 SPERLING CHARDONNAY 2014, OKANAGAN ($29.95)
Pale straw colour with a bouquet of winter apples, vanilla oak and a light floral note; medium-bodied, dry and elegant with focused apple and citrus flavours. (TA)
90 HAYWIRE FREE FORM WHITE 2015, OKANAGAN ($35)
100% Sauvignon Blanc made with zero cellar intervention; wild yeast, full malo and 9 months of skin contact then pressed and bottled unfiltered. So, essentially a “natural” wine that will require an acquired taste for consumers. It’s a mineral bomb on the nose with underlying fresh-cut hay, mango, pineapple and apple skin. It has a rich, creamy feel on the palate with complex notes of flinty minerality, citrus and pulpy tropical fruit with an earthy component that builds on the finish. (RV)
90 TWO SISTERS VINEYARDS RIESLING 2014, TWENTY MILE BENCH ($35)
From the prized Foxcroft Vineyard comes the superb Riesling that balances acidity and sweetness to perfection, giving the impression of a dry wine. Pale water colour and textbook “Bench” aromas of mineral, lime, white flower, white peach and hints of honey. Long, brisk finale. Drink or age, your choice. (ES)
89 CAVE SPRING ESTATE BOTTLED CHARDONNAY/MUSQUÉ 2014, NIAGARA ($16.95)
Musqué is an aromatic clone of Chardonnay that gives the wine a floral top note. This wine is light straw in colour with a nose of apples and apple blossom; dry and medium-bodied, it’s surprisingly light on the palate for its 13.6% alcohol. A good buy at the price. (TA)
88 CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES ALIGOTÉ 2015, ONTARIO ($14.95)
A very useful Chablis substitute. Pale straw in colour with a minerally, lemony bouquet; medium-bodied, dry and fresh with lively apple and lemon flavours. (TA)
88 COYOTE’S RUN RED PAW CHARDONNAY 2015, FOUR MILE CREEK ($24.95)
Still tight, the oak is the first that hits the senses in the form of vanilla, butterscotch and spice. The banana fruit, apple, citrus and white peach join in afterward. Great length and ideal with salmon fillet topped with a mustard sauce. (ES)
87 TANTALUS JUVENILES CHARDONNAY 2015, OKANAGAN ($30) Fresh and juicy with loads of ripe pear, citrus, zesty lime, crunchy apple and melon flavours, medium weight and a refreshing quaffability. (GB)
CHILE 91 CONCHA Y TORO MARQUES DE CASA CONCHA CHARDONNAY 2015, LIMARÍ VALLEY ($19)
Wow. This cooler-climate Limarí Valley Chardonnay will impress those who have mistakenly written Chile off. Here in the Quebrada Seca Vineyard, both the cool coastal breezes and the 190 m altitude contribute to the freshness of this concentrated, full-bodied white. Calcium-clad clay is base for the 3 Chardonnay clones, which were whole-cluster pressed and fermented in oak vats before barrel aging for 11 months. Toast, green apple and cream is laced with bright salted lemon, fine earthy lees and a lingering vibrant
lemon pith. This bottle gets even better over the course of the evening, and will also impress with a year or 2 in the cellar. Winemaker Marcelo Papa shows his skill and knowledge of terroir again here, and at a fantastic price. (TR)
89 CONCHA Y TORO MARQUES DE CASA CONCHA CHARDONNAY 2014, LIMARÍ ($19.95)
The cool climate and combination of clay/limestone soils of Limarí give this wine a decidedly elegant feel. Medium yellow with aromas of butterscotch, toast, vanilla, honey, pineapple, yellow apple and Bosc pear. Medium body and vibrant acidity provide lift and symmetry. Lobster ravioli in a cream sauce would be divine with this wine. (ES)
88 SANTA CAROLINA RESERVA ESTATE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2016, DO VALLE DE LEYDA ($13.99)
Vivid aromatics boast delicate floral scents together with gooseberry and grassy herbal freshness. Bright green gooseberry with passion fruit notes kick in on the palate, supported by lively acidity, culminating in a long, fresh, fruity finish. (SW)
FRANCE 96 MONTEZ CONDRIEU LES GRANDES CHAILLÉES 2013, RHÔNE ($42.50)
Clear medium lemon-yellow. Intense nose of flowers, caramel, peach, toasted almonds and honey. Full bodied and in beautiful balance, fruity but fully dry with peach and bitter-almond flavours. Classy Condrieu; expensive but worth it. At its best now. (RL)*
92 JEAN-PAUL BRUN TERRES DORÉES BEAUJOLAIS BLANC 2014, AOP BEAUJOLAIS ($31)
From one of the elder statesmen of Beaujolais, this Beaujolais Blanc is a rare example of Chardonnay from the limestone soils (Terres Dorées = golden soils) of Beaujolais. Gamay accounts for 99% of the grapes grown in Beaujolais, so this is a rare treat and a fantastic value for white Bourgogne. Mineral-rich with a creamy, green apple, and lees-led core, this echoes with light
flint and lingers with fine, strong acid, a hallmark of the limestone soils. A hidden gem, prized by those in the know. (TR)
91 CHÂTEAU MONTUS 2011, PACHERENC DU VIC-BILH, SOUTHWEST ($24.90)
Bright golden colour. A good deal of oak complements the notes of candied fruits, beeswax and honey. Quite generous and mouthfilling with obvious oak wrapping, the fatty and ripe texture balanced by a powerful acidity. Impressive now, it can evolve 5 to 6 years easily. (GBQc)
91 JEAN-MARC BROCARD BUTTEAUX CHABLIS 2014, BURGUNDY ($46.95)
An archetypal Chablis — straw-coloured with a minerally, green-apple and lemon nose with a chalky note; medium-bodied, crisply dry with apple and lemon flavours. Lots of energy here and great length. (TA)
90 CHÂTEAU PÉGAU CUVÉE LÔNE 2015, CÔTES-DU-RHÔNE ($21.95) Very pale. Seductive notes of pineapple, ripe pear and other tropical fruits are not masked by any oak but a hint of dry stone shows up, followed by evolving dried herbs and pastry. Mouthfeel has a good roundness and adequate acidity yet balance is slightly leaning towards the rich alcohol content. Drink now with white meat in creamy sauce. (GBQc)
89 BRUMONT TORUS BLANC 2011, PACHERENC DU VIC-BILH, SOUTHWEST ($17.60)
Pale golden colour. White and yellow tropical fruits with a fair amount of oak. The fine acidity is contrasted by the fatty texture in the rich mid-palate. There is a slightly vegetal note for extra freshness. It is rare to find such generosity and aging potential (4 to 5) years) at this price level. (GBQc)
88 CAVE VINICOLE DE HUNAWIHR RIESLING 2013, AOC ALSACE ($15.50)
Clear pale yellow. Medium-intensity bouquet of orange, lime and apple scents. Fresh, acidic lemon and lime on the palate with a very slight touch of sweetness. Good Riesling typicity. Drink now. (RL)*
88 LOUIS MAX CHARDONNAY HAUTES VALLÉE 2014, PAYS D’OC IGP ($18.99)
Shows mellow ripe buttery/spicy lemon citrus on the nose. Bright citrus flavours are laced with butterscotch richness tempered by crisply refreshing acidity on the palate. (SW)
88 LAROCHE ST-MARTIN 2015, CHABLIS, BURGUNDY ($23.20)
Minerally with a sharp note of striking matches along with citrus and hints of smoke and dry stone. Lively acidity, salty and mineral flavours dominate the light to medium body mid-palate. Good quality overall, drink it over 2 to 3 years. (GBQc)
88 DROUHIN-VAUDON CHABLIS 2015, BURGUNDY ($23.95)
Pale yellow. Delicate, minerally nose with fine citrus notes. Sharp and fresh, the cutting acidity leads to a full, round and bone-dry mid-palate, followed by a fruity finish. Ready to drink; it can wait a year or two. (GBQc)
88 WILLIAM FÈVRE CHAMPS ROYAUX 2015, CHABLIS, BURGUNDY ($24.45)
Pale yellow. In this warm vintage, the wine shows ripe fruity notes of citrus with only a mineral hint. Bone dry, the lively acidity guarantees a light and refreshing mid-palate with a good balance. There is a mineral edge in the long finish. It will drink well over the next year. (GBQc)
87 CÔTÉ MAS BLANC MÉDITERRANÉE, IGP ($11.95)
A great price for this Mediterranean blend of primarily Grenache Blanc and Vermentino with hints of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Medium body; there is green apple, peach, lemon, honey and white flowers in play. Moderate acidity and fine length. (ES)
ITALY 92 PIETRADOLCE ETNA BIANCO 2015, DOC ETNA BIANCO, SOLICCHIATA, SICILY ($25.50) From one of the top producers in Sicily, this is Carricante (carico means “bur-
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 53
NOTED dened”, which refers to the abundant fruit on these bush vines) 800 m above sea level on the sandy loam northern slopes of Mount Etna. This was vinified and matured in stainless steel, preserving the pure fruit and the electric acidity of volcanic Etna. White asparagus leads ample salty minerality, broken stones, herbal lees and brisk lemon pith/peel on this light-/medium-bodied, structural and defined frame. Profound with appealing angularity and intriguing complexity, this drinks beautifully now in youth, but will reward further with time in the cellar. (TR)
91 PIERFRANCESCO GATTO RUCHÉ DI CASTAGNOLE MONFERRATO CARESANA 2014, DOCG RUCHÉ DI CASTAGNOLE MONFERRATO, PIEDMONTE ($27.50)
Ruché is a native grape of north-eastern Piedmont, and was the wine reserved for special feasts and celebrations. Ruché Caresana is one of the flagship wines of Gatto, an 8 ha family estate from the late 19th century. The sandy/tuffaceous hillside vineyards are between 230 and 260 m and are farmed sustainably, including a mix of organic and biodynamic practices. This is fermented in a mix of stainless and glass-lined cement before time in larger-format Slavonian and French oak. Intense white pepper, geranium, wild plum and herbal green raspberry notes open and carry through to the fresh, light-bodied palate. Salted dried herbs, cured sweet salami, perfumed rock roses and nutmeg flow throughout, all lifted with a bright, brisk acidity. Finishes with ample cracked pepper. An alluring rare beauty, best enjoyed slightly chilled and with an Italian charcuterie platter. (TR)
91 PLANETA CHARDONNAY 2014, SICILIA DOC ($39.75)
Opens with big, ripe buttery and subtle oaky notes. Fine lemon citrus, mineral and balancing fresh acidity on the palate. Rich but not overstated, with a very long leesy and stony mineral finish. (SW)
90 SARTORI FERDI 2014, BIANCO VERONESE IGT ($20.99)
Made from hand-selected 100% Gargane54 × @QUENCH_MAG × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
ga grapes from hillside Soave vineyards. The grapes are left to dry for 40 days to reduce water content and concentrate sugar and colour. Partly fermented in oak, the wine is matured on the lees for 6 to 7 months with another 4 months in bottle before release. The result shows deep green/gold in the glass with intense floral fragrance and elegant pear and citrus flavours with mellow, leesy richness balanced by subtle refreshing acidity. (SW)
90 MONTE DEL FRÀ CA’ DEL MAGRO CUSTOZA SUPERIORE 2012, DOC CUSTOZA SUPERIORE, VERONA ($21)
Fragrant honeysuckle leaps from the glass of this white blend from the hills of Custoza, a small hamlet in the commune of Sommacampagna, south-east of Lake Garda. The Ca’ del Magro vineyard is over 40 years old, and a blend of Garganega, Trebbiano Toscano, Tocai Friulano, Cortese, Chardonnay, Riesling Italico, Malvasia and Incrocio Manzoni. This spends 6 to 8 months on full lees in stainless steel. Lush and full-bodied with rosewater, honey, ripe quince, baked Golden Delicious apples and Asian pear. Tangerine freshness counters the ripe weight of the fruit, landing at a pleasant 13% alcohol and fine ginger spicing on the finish. A lovely full and complete wine to pour when you’d like a richer, fragrant wine with acidity. Try with glazed duck. (TR)
90 PLANETA COMETA 2014, MENFI DOC ($39.75)
Made from 100% indigenous Sicilian Fiano grapes, this wine demonstrates why fine Sicilian native varieties deserve to be better known. It shows lovely floral and tropical-fruit intensity with notes of stone fruit and a lightly honeyed overtone. Racy minerality and lively acidity create great dynamic balance. Finishes just a bit short. (SW)
89 TENUTA FRATELLI POVERO CISTERNA D’ASTI 2014, ROERO ARNEIS, PIEMONTE ($14.25)
Very pale yellow. Complex nose of ripe apple, wet wool, honey and mineral notes. The honey flavour takes the lead on the
palate for a full, rich mid-palate and a nice fruity taste. Balanced finish and ready to drink. (GBQc)
89 PLANETA ALASTRO 2015, SICILIA DOC ($21.95) Sicilian native varieties Grecanico and Grillo are blended with a small amount of Sauvignon Blanc in this aromatic mellow ripe wine. Citrus and floral honeyed scents evolve to ripe yellow tropical fruit in the mouth with elegantly balanced acidity. (SW)
88 TORRE ROSAZZA PINOT GRIGIO 2015, COLLI ORIENTALE DEL FRIULI DOC ($23.95) Shows concentrated green fruit with an appetizing dry herbal note delivered in a creamy smooth texture, finishing with leesy notes and dry mineral grip. (SW)
88 CANTINE CORMÒNS 2015, COLLIO BIANCO DOC ($25)
A blend of regional varieties — Friulano, Malvasia Istriana and Ribolla Gialla — offering attractively scented floral honey and green fruit with supple stone-fruit flavours, delicately balanced acidity and a lick of mineral on the finish. (SW)
88 FLAIBANI PINOT GRIGIO 2013, DOC FRIULI COLLI ORIENTALI, FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA ($29)
Pino Flaibani owns 5 hectares of steep, terraced, hilltop vineyards and makes one wine, and this blush Pinot Grigio is it. As in the traditional Friulian way, this was left on the skins for a few hours, imparting the characterful copper-blush hue (much like the label). A silken palate brings light florals, gentle peach blossom and lifted acidity, with the extended skin contact providing a lick of texture and interest. A charming example, and a nice offset to commercial Italian Pinot Grigio. (TR)
87 SARTORI ARCO DI JOVI PINOT GRIGIO 2014, TRENTINO ($13.99)
Shows clean green fruit with a touch of spice, a distinctive dry savoury note and refreshingly crisp acidity. A good match for simply prepared seafood. (SW)
NEW ZEALAND 89 MOUNT BROWN ESTATES PINOT GRIS 2015, WAIPARA ($18.95)
Now here is a Pinot Gris with real flavour! Medium straw in colour with a minerally, peach and lemon-zest nose; you experience richly extracted peach and pear flavours on the palate with great length on the finish. (TA)
88 THE NED SAUVIGNON BLANC 2015, MARLBOROUGH ($16.60)
Classic Kiwi SB with passion fruit, gooseberry, pink grapefruit, nectarine, tomato vine, lime zest and minerals. Vivid acidity carries the pure finale. Drink now. (ES)
PORTUGAL 90 QUINTA DA MURTA WHITE 2013, DOC BUCELAS ($20)
Bucelas, northeast of Lisbon, is one of the most famous dry white regions of Portugal. It was here that Arinto was first cultivated by the Romans 2,000 years ago, and where the grape still shines today, with the coastal limestone and marl soils ideally suited to this local citrus and herbal-driven white. Quinta da Murta’s biodynamic vineyards are located around 250 m in the chalky hills. After a spell of skin contact and gentle pressing, this light-bodied white was tank-fermented on full lees for up to 6 months, resulting in crisp, saline-brisk lemon, pine nuts and hay woven amidst finely creamy lees. Subtly textural, humming with acidity and ample saline notes on the lingering finish (a beauty 12.5%). Tastes of the sea; pairs with oysters, gooseneck barnacles or any fresh shellfish. Drinking beautifully now, and with capacity to age. Fantastic value. (TR)
SOUTH AFRICA 89 RAATS FAMILY ORIGINAL CHENIN BLANC UNWOODED 2014, WO STELLENBOSCH ($28) Tight and pithy lemon, white grapefruit and yellow apple overlay a bed of broken stones in this Chenin Blanc, grown on decomposed granite and Table Mountain sandstone. Vines average 35 years old, with
both bush vines and dry farmed fruit in the mix. This spends 6 months on the lees in stainless, preserving the bright, crisp fruit. Medicinal white cherry and pineapple rind echoes on the zesty finish. Keen, youthful and ready to drink now. (TR)
88 ANTHONIJ RUPERT PROTEA CHENIN BLANC 2015, WESTERN CAPE ($19)
Fresh with citrus, stone fruit and pear aromas and flavours, a touch of spice and salinity, lively with bright acidity and nice weight in the mid-palate. Good length on the lifted, zippy finish. Great value and a delicious match with shellfish. (GB)
87 ANTHONIJ RUPERT CAPE OF GOOD HOPE CHENIN BLANC 2015, WESTERN CAPE ($30) Quite rich and full with oak that is slightly overbearing without putting the wine out of balance; lovely citrus, pear and apricot flavours, quite a firm backbone and a big finish. A lighter hand with the oak would allow the freshness of the wine to shine. (GB)
UNITED STATES 91 NEWTON UNFILTERED CHARDONNAY 2013, NAPA ($68.85)
Yes, it’s expensive, but what a ride you get. Straw-coloured with a green tint, the nose is filled with spicy, sandalwood, peach and lemon with pencil-lead notes. Full-bodied and dry, the rich flavours of caramel and citrus fill the palate and linger long. (TA)
90 SBRAGIA HOME RANCH CHARDONNAY 2013, DRY CREEK VALLEY, SONOMA ($49.95)
Nobody makes bigger Chardonnays in California than Ed Sbragia. Clocking in at 14.8% alcohol, this is a wine for heroes: yellow straw in colour, it has a spicy nose redolent of the forest floor and green pineapple. Full-bodied; you get fleshy, rich flavours of tropical fruit mixed with spicy oak and a long finish. (TA)
87 BONTERRA VIOGNIER 2014, MENDOCINO, CALIFORNIA ($19.95) Pale yellow. Fruity notes of Bartlett
pear and apple. Delicate acidity and a ripe fruity taste combine in the mellow mouthfeel carried by warm alcohol, but the freshness of the fruit keeps it in balance. Drink soon. (GBQc)
ROSÉ 88 ANTHONIJ RUPERT PROTEA ROSÉ 2016, WESTERN CAPE, SOUTH AFRICA ($19)
Pale coral in colour with lively aromas and flavours of strawberry, cherry and white peach, a hint of white pepper and mineral; refreshing, finishing juicy, but dry and crisp. A blend of Mourvèdre, Shiraz, Cinsault and Grenache. A great match with salmon, barbecue pork and chicken tikka. (GB)
RED ARGENTINA 88 TRAPICHE PURE BLACK MALBEC 2015, MENDOZA ($15.95)
Something rather unusual from Argentina, this wine is an unoaked Malbec. Deep purple colour with a spicy, roasted-plum nose; its full-bodied juicy blackberry fruit fills the palate, with notes of blueberry and cranberry. Finishes firm. Well-made wine and good value. (TA)
88 TRAPICHE FINCA LAS PALMAS GRAN RESERVA MALBEC 2012, MENDOZA ($16.95)
Dense purple-black in colour with a spicy, cedary, plum nose; full bodied and dry with spicy plum and mocha-chocolate flavours. Not a lot of finesse here but brimming with flavour. Firmly structured. A terrific hamburger wine. (TA)
CANADA 94 QUAILS’ GATE THE BOSWELL SYRAH 2014, OKANAGAN ($52.19)
Aromas of red berries and pepper with earthy notes yield to a plush, layered and FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 55
NOTED complex palate structured by silky tannins. Emphasized by soft meaty and spice notes wrapped in mulberry and black pepper before a lengthy and mouth-filling, spicy close. (TP)
93 QUAILS’ GATE RICHARDS BLOCK PINOT NOIR 2014, OKANAGAN ($47.89) From a select block on the estate of 40-year-old vines. Generous black fruit, cherry and violet notes, followed by a well-structured but balanced palate with measured French oak underpinned by mineral and earthy streaks before a long and supple close. (TP)
93 HAYWIRE FREE FORM RED 2015, OKANAGAN ($55)
The natural brother to the Free Form White. Nothing added to this 100% Pinot Noir that was fermented in two 800-litre amphorae then aged on skins for 8 months. Totally wild wine with a nose of red plums, cherry pie, brambly raspberry and cassis that all builds in intensity. Untethered and free spirited, this red shows bushy raspberry, tar, leather, earth and a pepper note on the palate with silky tannins and a subtle dusty cocoa note on the finish. (RV)
92 BURROWING OWL ATHENE 2013, OKANAGAN ($35)
Flagship blend of 52% Syrah, 48% Cabernet Sauvignon yields aromas of vibrant, lifted red and black fruits before a plush but elegant, spice-toned palate of black cherry, plum and cassis. Wrapped in well-rounded, approachable tannins, hints of pepper plus anise and clove before a lingering finish. (TP)
92 DOMAINE QUEYLUS GRAND RÉSERVE MERLOT/CABERNET FRANC 2013, NIAGARA ($50) Simply gorgeous blend and amazingly, it achieved this level of quality from the 2013 vintage, which wasn’t kind to big red varietals in general. The nose has a lot going for it — cherries, raspberries, bramble, currants, stewed herbs, violets, minerals and crunchy spice notes. It’s rich, complex, layered and textured with
56 × @QUENCH_MAG × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
well-integrated fruit and spice that seems well balanced already. (RV)
92 FOREIGN AFFAIR PETIT VERDOT 2013, NIAGARA ($55)
Made with 14% of the Petit Verdot in barrel, infused with dried-grape Cabernet Franc. Really fine nose of plums, blackcurrants, espresso bean, cocoa and fine oak spices. It’s rich, bolstered by a thick bed of plush tannins with expressive ripe currants, anise, liquorice, earth and rousing sweet spice notes. Can cellar 10+ years. (RV)
92 DOMAINE QUEYLUS GRAND RÉSERVE PINOT NOIR 2013, NIAGARA ($60)
It’s made in the personality of a fine Cru Burgundy Pinot with the essence of Niagara. So, lots of funk and earth with savoury red fruits and elegant French oak spice. It’s complex with barnyard notes on the palate and a vein of minerality. It’s both lithe and complex through the finish with racy acidity to keep everything fresh and lively. (RV)
91 NYARAI CADENCE 2012, NIAGARA ($23)
A late released 2012 blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon with a touch of Syrah. It has a rich, inviting nose of currants, plums, bramble and oak spices. The firm tannins are still evolving on the palate and lift the dark berries, earth, bramble and fine spice notes. (RV)
91 TIME MERITAGE 2013, OKANAGAN ($25.99)
This Merlot-dominant blend yields red and black fruit aromas followed by a palate wrapped in good acidity. Juicy red fruit, mulberry and good length with grippy tannins that should mellow over the next couple of years. (TP)
91 HAYWIRE PINOT NOIR 2014, OKANAGAN ($27)
Light in glass followed by vibrant cherry chic and a touch of savoury. Lovely balance, fine tannins; pure fruit expression with a wild berry edge. (TP)
91 TINHORN CREEK OLDFIELD SERIES 2BENCH RED 2013, OKANAGAN ($30)
Utilizing all 5 Bordeaux varietals, this is a gorgeous red blend from the Black Sage Bench. It shows a range of dark and red fruits on the nose with interesting herbs, spice, tobacco and leather notes. It’s refined on the palate, not heavy, with intense berries and interwoven with balancing spice and fine tannins. (RV)
91 TIME SYRAH 2013, OKANAGAN ($35)
Aromas of intense black fruit with some nice meaty, gamy notes on the back palate. Well-balanced mouthfeel with good viscosity, very definitely more of a nod to old world. Less extracted than before. Good varietal character, pepper notes and a powerful, lingering close. Platinum at BC Wine Awards. (TP)
91 HAYWIRE FREE FORM RED 2015, OKANAGAN ($45) Natural, non-interventionist Pinot Noir, made with wild yeast, with 8 months on skins in amphorae. Lifted red berries, strawberry and wild berries with refreshing acidity and lingering, elegant tannins; well balanced with a juicy finish. (TP)
91 TAWSE DAVID’S BLOCK MERLOT 2012, NIAGARA ($50)
It’s thick and rich on the nose with persistent red fruits, elegant oak spices, bramble and subtle cocoa notes. It’s highly structured but nuanced with layers of red and dark berries, loam, barrel spices and a long, long finish. This will reward with 5+ years in the cellar. (RV)
90 FORT BERENS MERITAGE 2014, LILLOOET ($23.99) Aromas of red berries and some toasty notes before a supple palate of mulberry and dark cherry with well-integrated tannins through the close. (TP)
90 FORT BERENS PINOT NOIR 2014, LILLOOET ($25.99)
Medium garnet in the glass, this more Burgundian-styled Pinot yields vibrant damson, cherry and earthy notes on top
before a light- to medium-bodied palate with mouthwatering entry of red fruit, strawberries, spice and herbal notes. Moderate acidity, a touch of spice and elegant, hint of savoury in the finish. (TP)
90 TINHORN CREEK OLDFIELD SERIES 2 BENCH RED 2013, OKANAGAN ($30.49)
A blend of 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Cabernet Franc, 20% Merlot, 6% Malbec, 3% Petit Verdot. Deep ruby colour; earthy, spicy, black-raspberry nose with cedary-floral notes; medium bodied, elegant, beautifully balanced with resolved tannins and a rich flavour of blueberry pie. (TA)
90 COYOTE’S RUN RARE VINTAGE SYRAH 2014, FOUR MILE CREEK ($34.95)
Of all the ’14 Rare Vintage reds, this is my favourite. Ripe, the style leans more to the Rhône model with a bouquet of cassis, violets, black pepper, oregano and hickory. Excellent density and aftertaste with enough structure to take it until 2022. (ES)
90 TWO SISTERS VINEYARDS ELEVENTH POST 2012, NIAGARA RIVER ($39)
This blend of 50% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon is an impressive and seamless red that exudes dark cherry, cassis, raspberry, plum, chocolate, herbs and hints of graphite. Full bodied, ripe and long lasting, it is ready to drink now but can easily handle another 6 years of cellaring. (ES)
90 TWO SISTERS VINEYARDS CABERNET FRANC 2013, NIAGARA RIVER ($48)
Considering the challenging nature of the vintage, this wine is somewhat of a minor miracle. It clocks in at a natural 14.2% alcohol and is a classic Cab Franc, with vanilla, raspberry, cassis, red pepper, cocoa and smoky tobacco attributes. Low yields provide a sweet/fruity palate with fine tannins. Drink until 2023. (ES)
90 TWO SISTERS VINEYARDS MERLOT 2012, NIAGARA RIVER ($48) This is what a great Merlot should be: delicious, ripe and mouth-coating. Plum, chocolate, cherry, red/purple flowers,
spice, smoke and mint combine to provide a gratifying experience. Excellent length. Drink until 2020. (ES)
89 BURROWING OWL PINOT NOIR 2014, OKANAGAN ($25)
Fruit-driven juicy New-World-styled Pinot from the South Okanagan yields juicy black cherry and dried fruit aromas before a raspberry-and-vanilla-toned palate with a slight savoury herbal edge. (TP)
89 TINHORN CREEK OLDFIELD SERIES MERLOT 2013, OKANAGAN ($26.99)
95% Merlot with 4% Cabernet Franc, 1% Syrah. Ruby colour with a mature rim; cedary, wood spice on the nose with strawberry and raspberry-note aromas and a light floral note; medium bodied, full on the palate with blackberry and black-cherry flavours and a tannic lift on the finish. Good mouthfeel. St Émilion in style. (TA)
89 MONTE CREEK CABERNET SAUVIGNON RESERVE 2014, KAMLOOPS ($29.99)
14% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc. Red and black fruit with bell-pepper aromas, before a plush palate of mocha, blackberry and dark chocolate; vanilla and oak notes through the close. (TP)
89 COYOTE’S RUN RARE VINTAGE CABERNET FRANC 2014, FOUR MILE CREEK ($34.95)
Fermented and aged in new French and American barrels, this rendition lets loose with aromas of blackberry, raspberry, spice, violets, cocoa, black olive and hickory. The palate adds cassis, smoke and tobacco. Stylish; there is a medium body, fine tannins and proper acidity. Drink over the next 5 to 6 years. (ES)
89 COYOTE’S RUN RARE VINTAGE MERITAGE 2014, FOUR MILE CREEK ($34.95) Merlot is the dominant grape with both Cabs acting as a backstop. Mid-weight with black cherry, blackcurrant, raspberry, vanilla, smoky tobacco and pencil shavings. Tannins are present but unobtrusive, making for an excellent pairing with a rack of lamb. (ES)
89 MOUNT BOUCHERIE FAMILY RESERVE SYRAH 2015, OKANAGAN ($35)
Toasted oak and cherry notes on top with sweet vanilla and black fruit, followed by a palate of blackcurrant, cinnamon and sweet spice over mocha and chocolate. Firmly French-oaked, supple tannins with black pepper on the midpalate through the close. (TP)
89 TAWSE DAVID’S BLOCK MERLOT 2012, TWENTY MILE BENCH ($49.95)
Dark cherry, plum, raspberry, vanilla, tobacco, cocoa and herbs are all in play in the medium- to full-bodied red. Tannins are fine-grained, and acidity is a touch on the higher end, so pair with some duck breast with a cherry sauce for an ethereal experience. (ES)
89 TWO SISTERS VINEYARDS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012, NIAGARA RIVER ($62)
Of all the Two Sisters’ reds, this is the one with the most grip. Plum, blackberry, crème de cassis, violets, cedar and cocoa powder are all in play. Pair this baby with osso bucco or a NY strip with a rosemary demi-glace and let the magic happen. (ES)
88 COYOTE’S RUN BLACK PAW CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014, FOUR MILE CREEK ($20.95)
My favorite Cab Sauv from this winery in the 2014 vintage. Mint, beef stock, blackcurrant, herbs, spice, vanilla are built on some grippy tannins. Hold for a year and then drink until 2022. (ES)
88 TWO SISTERS VINEYARDS ESTATE RED 2012, NIAGARA RIVER ($23.50)
This red is only sold in restaurants. It is mid-weight and delivers lots of tobacco, cassis, plum, raspberry, herbs, cocoa and vanilla. Tannins are fine, and there is great length. Drink now. (ES)
88 TAWSE GROWER’S BLEND CABERNET FRANC 2013, NIAGARA ($27.95)
A mid-weight and easy-drinking Franc with cassis, raspberry, violets, tobacco, FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 57
NOTED cocoa and spice flavours. Ready to drink with a smoked pork loin topped with a herb demi-glace. (ES)
CHILE 93 CONCHA Y TORO DON MELCHOR CABERNET SAUVIGNON, MAIPO VALLEY ($75)
Full bodied, this is a powerful and polished red with new oak influence of toast, cocoa and spice that melds with blackberry, plum, violets, mint, graphite and scorched earth. Concentrated; there is a thick texture and enough backbone to age 15 years. (ES)
91 CONCHA Y TORO MARQUES DE CASA CONCHA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015, PUENTE ALTO ($21.95) A solid Cabernet Sauvignon that dishes up cassis, plum, violets, mint, earth, graphite, spice and cocoa. Medium-plus body with depth that carries long and finishes with fine tannins that will allow 7 years of aging. (ES)
91 MARQUES DE CASA CONCHA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015, MAIPO VALLEY ($21.95) Blended with 6% Cabernet Franc, 1% Merlot and 1% Syrah. Dense purple colour; savoury, cedary, tobacco bouquet with vanilla oak, lead-pencil and floral notes. Full-bodied, richly extracted sweet blackcurrant and black plum flavours; lovely mouthfeel finishing firmly with ripe tannins. (TA)
90 CARMEN GRAN RESERVA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012, MAIPO VALLEY ($16.95)
This is your quintessential steak wine. Medium-plus body; there is cassis, smoke, mint, vanilla, violets, herbs and mint. Ripe and flavourful, it has the potential to cellar for a couple of years, if so desired. (ES)
90 NATIVA ORGANIC COMMUNITY BLEND 2012, MAULE VALLEY ($16.95)
This organic wine is a blend of 5 grapes, 58 × @QUENCH_MAG × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
with Carménère and Cabernet Sauvignon acting as the lead. Ripe and easy-drinking; you will find blackcurrant, cocoa, violets, bay leaf, vanilla and spice. Fullish, it has a long aftertaste. (ES)
90 CONCHA Y TORO CASILLERO DEL DIABLO RESERVE PRIVADA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015, MAIPO ($17.95) A bargain Cabernet Sauvignon! It hits the palate right away with dark fruit flavours of plum, cherry and blueberry. This is followed by mint, cocoa, spice and purple flowers. Texturally, it is round with unobtrusive tannins. Excellent length and ready to be drunk over the next 5 years. (ES)
90 MARQUES DE CASA CONCHA CARMÉNÈRE 2014, CACHAPOAL VALLEY ($19.95)
Carménère blended with 12% Cabernet Sauvignon. Dense purple in colour with a spicy, blackcurrant, cedary nose augmented by notes of red flowers and pencil lead; medium bodied, dry and savoury with plum, blackcurrant and dark chocolate flavours; firmly structured. (TA)
89 CASILLERO DEL DIABLO RESERVA PRIVADA 2015, MAIPO VALLEY ($17.95)
This wine has spent 14 months in French oak. Dense purple in colour with a spicy bouquet of leather and blackcurrants with light oak notes. Medium-bodied, dry, well-extracted fruit; firmly structured with balanced acidity. (TA)
89 CONCHA Y TORO SERIE RIBERAS RESERVA CARMÉNÈRE 2014, PEUMO ($17.95)
Bordeaux has virtually abandoned the Carménère grape, but it flourishes in Chile where they produce it as a single variety or blend it with Cabernet Sauvignon. This Carménère has about 10% Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. The wine is dense purple in colour with a cedary, blackcurrant nose. It’s full bodied, dry with a fruity blackcurrant flavour, good length with a note of cinnamon on the finish. (TA)
89 CONCHA Y TORO MARQUES DE CASA CONCHA CARMÉNÈRE 2012, PEUMO, CACHAPOAL VALLEY ($20)
This Peumo Carménère surprises in many ways, not the least of which with value for price. Earthy, green herbal notes, with blackcurrant, ripe black cherry and a salty, almost seaweed, flickering throughout. Green coffee, cedar boughs, cranberry, anise, bay leaf all contribute interesting complexity here, far beyond what I was expecting. Fresh, medium-bodied and drinkable now, especially with grilled meats over an open flame. (TR)
88 CARMEN PREMIER 1865 CARMÉNÈRE 2015, COLCHAGUA VALLEY ($12.45)
This is an incredible-value Carménère, so make sure to pick up a few bottles! Cassis, plum, vanilla, cocoa and mint are all in play. Lengthy with a fruit-driven personality and suave tannins. Perfect for red sauce dishes. (ES)
88 VIÑA TARAPACÁ GRAN RESERVA CARMÉNÈRE 2013, MAIPO VALLEY ($17.95)
Dense purple in colour with a spicy, meaty nose of blackcurrant and prune. Full bodied, dry, richly extracted with spicy plum flavours and a cedary note. (TA)
87 MAOLA MERLOT RESERVA 2015, DO VALLE CENTRAL ($15.99) Generously ripe Merlot varietal nose with typical rich earthy overtone leads into succulent, ripe dark fruit in the mouth. Flavours suggest blackberry, with background plum backed by gentle tannins, with lively acidity and a subtle splash of dark chocolate. (SW)
86 SANTA CAROLINA RESERVA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015, DO COLCHAGUA ($13.99)
Varietal Cabernet Sauvignon nose shows blackberry and blackcurrant together with earthy and minty herbal scents. Generous blackberry and blackcurrant themes persist in the mouth, supported by moderate tannins, a light splash of chocolate and balanced acidity. (SW)
86 MAOLA CABERNET SAUVIGNON RESERVA 2015, DO VALLE CENTRAL ($15.99) Lovely fresh floral, green herbal and ripe dark fruit, together with subtle forest-floor aromas, yield to sweet ripe-berry fruit supported by soft tannins and an interesting herbal note. Easy-to-like fruit-driven style. (SW)
FRANCE 93 CHÂTEAU LABÉGORCE 2005, AC MARGAUX ($43.33)
Clear very deep garnet. Medium-intensity, complex and mature aromas of blueberries, plums, a little dried fig and tea. Medium bodied. Still quite tannic, but otherwise well balanced. Cranberry and raspberry fruit is fading. Drink up. (RL)*
92 CHÂTEAU MONT-REDON 2012, CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE ($45.95)
From one of CDP’s top producers comes this foursquare red, which exudes dark cherry, plum, cured meats, pepper and garrigue. Excellent depth and a long aftertaste with non-obtrusive tannins. Drink until 2022. (ES)
91 CHÂTEAU HAUT FAUGÈRES 2010, ST-ÉMILION ($39.75)
A rich, Merlot-driven Grand Cru from a great vintage. Dense purple in colour with a cedary nose of blueberries and vanilla oak and a grace note of rose petals. Full-bodied, dry, richly extracted plum and blueberry flavours that fill the palate. Hold 3 to 5 years. (TA)
90 CHÂTEAU BOUSCASSÉ 2010, MADIRAN, SOUTHWEST ($21.30)
Dark ruby. Red and black berries, black ink and a hint of eucalyptus announce a sturdy wine. Indeed, its full-bodied, compact and tight palate has chewy tannins fully wrapped in fruity extract. Generous, it keeps all the components integrated with one another and in perfect balance. 10-year potential. (GBQc)
89 LA CHABLISIENNE SAINT BRIS 2015, BURGUNDY ($16.95)
The Saint Bris district is located within Burgundy’s appellation but it doesn’t
grow Chardonnay. It produces Sauvignon Blanc. The wine is very pale in colour with green apple, lemon and cut-grass notes on the nose. Light on the palate, it offers grapefruit and gooseberry flavours with tangy acidity. (TA)
89 GABRIEL MEFFRE LAURUS 2013, CÔTES DU RHÔNEVILLAGES ($17.95)
The Côtes du Rhône-Villages region in southern France offers some of the best-value red wines. Dense purple in colour, this full-bodied red has a cedary nose of plum and raspberries backed by spicy oak notes. It’s dry and richly extracted with a savoury-herbal finish. (TA)
89 CHÂTEAU LA MAROUTINE 2011, BORDEAUX AC ($19.78) Dark fruit, cinnamon, a touch of clove and elegant cedary scents open the way for succulent plum, blackberry and black cherry flavours. Stiff tannins and somewhat aggressive acidity need a bit more time to soften. Drinking well now with food but will reward laying down for 3 to 5 years. (SW)
89 CHÂTEAU AIMÉE 2011, MÉDOC AC ($22.79)
Opens with blackcurrant, green herb and a light whiff of spice. Supple dark-fruit flavours unfold lightly sweet blackcurrant, blackberry and plum with velvety smooth tannins; deftly balanced acidity, culminating in a well-integrated, satisfying finish. (SW)
89 HENRY MARIONNET PREMIÈRE VENDANGE 2015, TOURAINE, LOIRE VALLEY ($23.90)
This natural (no added SO2) Gamay wine shows a purple colour, a nose of fresh red fruits and cinnamon-flavoured candy. Easy-drinking, quaffing with its very fresh fruity taste and light body, each gulp is a treat. A true “vin de soif.” (GBQc)
89 DOMAINE GAUBY LES CALCINAIRES 2015, IGP CÔTES CATALANES ROUSSILLON ($27.90)
Bright ruby. Red and black berries (cherry, blackberry), spicy notes possibly coming from a short stay in oak barrels. Full bodied; the finely grained tannins
provide a firm mid-palate full of fresh fruity flavour. Clean finish to wrap things up in this ready-to-drink fine red. (GBQc)
88 CHÂTEAU LAULERIE MALBEC 2013, BERGERAC AC ($19.99)
Nose reveals brooding dark fruit with cedar and scents of clove and cinnamon. Blackcurrant and black plum flavours come wrapped in a tight tannic texture with still-youthful acidity. Will improve with another year or 2 in the cellar. (SW)
88 TOUR DE PIERRES 2014, ERMITAGE DU PIC SAINT LOUP AC LANGUEDOC ($30)
Deep fruit scents are accented by spicy cinnamon and peppery notes with slightly tart plum and cherry flavours, youthful acidity and dry tannic grip. Give it another 2 to 3 years in the cellar. (SW)
87 MONTMIJA LA CHAPELLE CABERNET FRANC 2013, PAYS D’OC IGP ($16.99)
Dark fruit scents are accented by spicy and leathery overtones and a pinch of herb. Shows more New World ripe fruitiness in the mouth with blackberry, redcurrant, easy tannins and a splash of milk chocolate, finishing with dry tannic grip. (SW)
ITALY 94 IL VELTRO DOCG BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2007 ($29.50)
Clear deep browning garnet. Mature, robust port-like nose of prunes and raisins. Good example of an age-worthy Sangiovese wine, medium-bodied with sour black-cherry flavours and a long bitter-almond finish. Alcohol is slightly hot. Tannins are still noticeable, but drink this year. (RL)*
93 MARCHESI DI SAN GIULANO SAN GIULANO 2012, TERRE SICILIANE IGP ($60)
Though still somewhat closed, this is a wine of great depth and complexity. The distinctive House signature of deep, developed fruit overlaid with elegant spice is there on the nose, together with finely balanced red and dark fruit in the mouth. Give it another 3 to 5 years in the cellar. (SW) FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 59
NOTED 92 SCACCIADIAVOLI 2010, MONTEFALCO SAGRANTINO DOCG ($40)
Sagrantino typically needs long aging, and this one is no exception. Redcurrant, subtle cinnamon spice and a splash of vanilla on the nose lead the way for complex, massively concentrated currant and berry flavours, partially masked by unyielding tannic bite. All the right stuff is in place, but needs 4 to 5 years additional cellaring. (SW)
91 TERRE D’UVA IGP SALENTO PRIMITIVO 2012 ($14.17)
Clear, very deep hue just on the purple side of garnet. The intense plum nose opens to aromas of prunes, raisins and marmalade. Grapey and in your face with slightly sweetish flavours of ripe cherry accompanied by plenty of alcohol and tannic structure. Drink this year. Good value for a fruity crowd pleaser. (RL)*
91 MARCHESI DI SAN GIULANO BELUZZA 2013, TERRE SICILIANE IGP ($25)
This blend of Tempranillo, Grenache and Shiraz, grown in the dry-farmed semi-arid vineyards of southeastern Sicily, has produced a fine, complex wine with the stylish Marchesi di San Giulano signature. It shows elegant red and dark berry-fruit with raspberry, cinnamon and clove-driven spicy intensity. Supple fruit flavours show great depth and balance, finishing with an agreeably dry grip. (SW)
91 LOREDAN GASPARINI MONTELLO 2011, DOC VENEGAZZU ROSSO DELLA CASA ($42)
A classic Bordeaux blend showing elegant plum and cherry character with a complex panoply of spices, solid tannic structure, good overall balance and a light splash of chocolate. Give it another 3 years to soften tannins and acidity. (SW)
91 SARTORI 2012, AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA DOC ($44.99)
A first-rate Amarone offering concentrated developed dark fruit on the nose with refined notes of cinnamon, vanilla and clove. Rich dark plum and black-cherry flavours come encased in a firm tannic 60 × @QUENCH_MAG × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
structure with good weight and balance. A deeply satisfying, powerful wine with room for further development. (SW)
91 CASTIGLION DEL BOSCO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2011, TUSCANY ($65)
Elegant, lively, complex and balanced with cherry, plum, strawberry and tobacco flavours. Notes of earth, leather and mineral, firm tannins. Bright acidity and a long, refreshing finish that lingers with fruit, earth and savoury notes. Bring on the wild boar chops. (GB)
91 ZENATO RECIOTO DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO 2010, DOCG RECIOTO DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO, VENETO ($69/500 ML)
Recioto originates in “recia,” meaning ear, and describing the the top part of the bunches that enjoy the best sun exposure. Here Corvina, Rondinella and Oseleta are dried over 5 months and pressed at the end of February before a 3-week ferment in horizontal stainless tanks prior to 2 years in oak barriques. Burnished brown sugar, carmelized plums, dried figs, tobacco, hints of reduced balsamic, cardamom and old wood in this very sweet-meets-savoury Recioto della Valpolicella. Classically old-school and perfectly so, with wellplaced firm acidity lifting the concentrated fruit. Complex and alluring through a very lengthy finish. Take with a cheese plate or ripe figs and blue cheese. (TR)
90 NALS MARGREID GALEA SCHIAVA 2013, SÜDTIROL ALTO ADIGE DOC ($26)
Though the Schiava grape might be new to you, it has been grown in Alto Adige since the 16th century. Also known as Vernatsch or Trollinger, the grape produces light, fragrant reds typically with moderate alcohol and light tannins. This elegant, lightly-hued example from Nals Margreid is an excellent introduction. Over 100-yearold vines yield a light red with delicate wild strawberries, raspberries, perfumed pink florals and a thin vein of minerality. The palate, also quietly confident, brings delicate strawberries, anise, fine pink
peppercorn spice, a slight grip of tannins and a subtle smoked stoniness. Acidity is freely lifted and the finish lingering. Pair with charcuterie, specifically speck, on a midsummer eve. (TR)
90 LOREDAN GASPARINI FALCONERA 2013, COLLI TREVIGIANI IGT ($30)
Offers developed dark fruit with subtle scents of cinnamon and clove. Clean, well-defined blackcurrant and black plum flavours are supported by finegrained tannins with a satisfying, harmonious finish. (SW)
90 SARTORI RECIOTO DI AMARONE DOC ($32.48/500 ML)
Fermented in oak for 18 months, this one shows enticingly aromatic blackcurrant and elegant sweet rich fruit in the mouth, with gently sweet marmalade character and a long, complex finish. (SW)
90 SARTORI CORTE BRÀ AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA 2009, VENETO ($49.95)
A full-bodied Amarone with a sweet fruit personality of prune, cherry and fig, which then adds cocoa, spice and herbs on the back end. Rich, concentrated and succulent. It is ready to drink but still has some stride left. (ES)
89 FEUDI SAN PIO RIPASSO VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO SUPERIORE 2013, VENETO ($19.95) Ripasso involves pouring the new Valpolicella wine over the lees of the Amarone production of the same year to give it more concentration. Dense purple in colour, this wine has a cedary, tobacco and cherry nose with spicy, toasty oak notes. It’s medium- to full-bodied, dry with a rich cherry flavour and balancing acidity. (TA)
89 CASTIGLION DEL BOSCO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO CAMPO DEL DRAGO 1999, TUSCANY ($210) Elegant and layered showing leather and earth with some remnants of mature fruit. Drinking well now, with earthy tannins and notes of cherry liqueur. Pair it with an earthy dish or some hard cheese. (GB)
88 TERRE D’UVA DOP SALICE SALENTINO RISERVA 2010 ($14.17)
Complex nose of cherry, blackberries, tea, smoke and black pepper. The flavours are simple: just sweet dark berries, but it has ample structure from tannins and acidity to keep it interesting. A refreshing change from the classic Chianti accompaniment to pasta with spicy tomato sauce. Drink now. (RL)*
88 SARTORI 2013, VALPOLICELLA RIPASSO SUPERIORE DOC ($21.49)
Good depth of cherry-fruit on the nose with rich, concentrated dark bitter cherry flavour, a subtle trace of wood, a dash of vanilla and a splash of chocolate on the harmoniously integrated finish. (SW)
87 CANTINA CORMONS PINOT NERO 2014, FRIULI ISONZO DOC ($15) Good varietal Pinot character with red cherry and vanilla on the nose; gentle cherry and raspberry in the mouth. A light, easy-drinking style to pair with charcuterie. (SW)
87 SARTORI ARCO DI JOVI 2014, VALPOLICELLA DOC ($14.99)
Straightforward, everyday style showing a bright fresh cherry scent and a whiff of dry herb. Lively sweet black cherry flavours are supported by well-balanced acidity and light tannic grip. (SW)
87 SARTORI L’APPASSIONE ROSSO DELLE VENEZIE IGT 2013 ($17.80)
A blend of native Corvine Veronese with Merlot and Cab Sauv, this is an international-style wine offering fleshy ripe fruit with a dash of cinnamon spice and a splash of chocolate on the finish. (SW)
87 CASTIGLION DEL BOSCO ROSSO DI MONTALCINO 2014, TUSCANY ($25)
Elegant and lean with bright cherry and strawberry flavours. Earthy, soft, slightly dusty tannins finishing lifted and fresh. Roasted rabbit would be a good match. (GB)
84 LE VIGNE DI SAMMARCO PRIMITIVO IGP SALENTO 2013 ($13.83) Clear medium-deep garnet. Grapey nose of candy and raspberry. Medi-
um-bodied with mashed dark berries on the palate; good acidity but tannins are gone. Drink up. (RL)*
PORTUGAL 90 DECISÃO RESERVA TINTO 2012, DOC TÁVORA-VAROSA ($14.83)
Clear deep plum red. Medium intensity nose of pipe tobacco and coffee overlying black-cherry aromas. Simple but inviting flavours of sweet black cherry and blackberry. Medium bodied; flavours are young but the tannins are almost gone — best now. (RL)*
88 VINHOS OSCAR QUEVEDO OSCAR’S DOURO RED 2014, DOC DOURO ($14)
If you think the Douro is just for Port wine, think again. Dry table wine from the Douro is hotter than ever, and it’s a category you’re going to see more and more (thankfully). Here Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz show soft, thorny black fruit, finely savoury, hued with anise. Tannins are chocolaty and fine, and a light medicinal black cherry lingers on the finish. Impressive red — authentic, dry and true to place — for this price. That’s the riches of Portugal. Drink up, oft. (TR)
87 ANTHONIJ RUPERT PROTEA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015, WESTERN CAPE ($19)
Bright and accessible with fresh currants, blackberry, cocoa, earth, tobacco and spice, soft texture, juicy tannins and a soft, lively finish. A well-made, good-value Cab for under $20. (GB)
SPAIN 91 VIÑA REAL GRAN RESERVA 2008, RIOJA ($22.95)
Tempranillo with under 10% of Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano. Dense purple in colour with a bouquet of cedary, roasted plum backed by spicy oak; medium- to full-bodied on the palate. Dry with plum flavour and well-integrated oak. Well balanced with a lovely mouthfeel. (TA)
89 BARAHONDA BARRICA MONASTRELL/SYRAH 2012, YECLA ($17.95)
SOUTH AFRICA
The French call it Mourvèdre; the Californians call it Mataró; but to the Spanish, the grape is Monastrell. Barahonda Barrica Monastrell/Syrah 2012 is dense purple in colour with a spicy, cedary nose of plums and dried herbs. Full bodied and dry, the wine offers richly extracted flavours of black cherries, liquorice and pepper. (TA)
92 ANTHONIJ RUPERT OPTIMA 2012, WESTERN CAPE ($38)
89 MONTECILLO RIOJA RESERVA 2010, DOC RIOJA ($18.15)
Lovely, elegant and layered with pure blackberry, black cherry, and black and red currants. Balanced and fresh with firm, plush well-integrated tannins and a long finish with bright acidity. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Delivers well above its price point. (GB)
90 ANTHONIJ RUPERT CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2010, WESTERN CAPE ($100) Big and bold with loads of black fruit, dark cocoa and vanilla, structured with a tight core, firm tannins and a big finish. Needs time and will benefit with several hours in a decanter if the plan is to drink it now. Better to forget about it in the cellar for at least 3 to 5 years. (GB)
Do you love beautifully aged wines that are ready to drink, but don’t want to fork out the premium? If so, then this is the wine for you! The good folks of Rioja pre-age the wines for you the old-fashioned way: aging wines in oak barrels first and finishing them off with bottle aging in their cellar for a specific amount of time before releasing them to the public. In this specific case, Bodegas Montecillo’s Reserva is aged in American and French oak barrels for 24 months, with an additional 16 months of bottle aging. This process softens out the tannins making the wine “ready to drink” to the point of optimal tasting without investing in storage space at home. Rioja enthusiasts are advocates FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 61
NOTED of Reservas as they are the middle ground between fruity Crianza and oaky Gran Reserva. At under $20 a bottle, this is a great “deal” wine! This wine combines aromas of ripe fruit and a touch of earthy flavours. Perfect for New World drinkers wanting to wet their palates with wines from the old country. Bursting with inviting ripe black cherries, blackberries and a hint of smoke and tar-like notes that are backed by fleshy tannins and lush acidity. A powerful yet elegant wine with nuances of anise and menthol that will buddy up with any meat dish or rich cheeses like Manchego. Drink now or, for those lucky ones who have a wine cellar (and the patience), wait 3 to 5 years. (SL)
88 PALACIOS REMONDO LA VENDIMIA 2014 ($15.95)
Alvaro Palacios is one of Spain’s great winemakers whose range of wines can get very pricey. But at the introductory level, he makes this bargain wine from Rioja. Deep ruby-plum in colour, it has an earthy, cedary nose of sour cherries. Medium- to full-bodied, it’s dry and fruity and easy-drinking. The wine always contains around 8% of wine from the previous harvest that stays in barriques for 1 year. (TA)
87 BODEGAS BORSAO TINTO GARNACHA SELECCIÓN 2015, CAMPO DE BORJA ($12.10)
The Campo de Borja region is known for its Garnacha. Deep ruby colour with an earthy, liquorice nose of blackberries with a note of herbs, this wine is medium-bodied and dry with a spicy blackberry flavour and a vanilla oak finish. Good value. (TA)
86 OSBORNE SOLAZ TEMPRANILLO CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014, CASTILLA Y LÉON ($11.65)
An example of Spain’s answer to France’s Bordeaux blends (without the hefty price tag). This popular trend in Spanish viticulture takes Cabernet Sauvignon, the international kid on the block, and blends it with Spain’s darling grape,Tempranillo. This 50/50 blend is a 62 × @QUENCH_MAG × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
dark ruby colour, seductively perfumed with leather, cedar and smoky aromas. At first sip, the Cabernet provides much of the wine’s structure, with flavours of blackcurrant followed by a whisper of vanilla. Mid-palate the Tempranillo shines through with sweet and savoury flavours of lightly spiced stewed cherries infused with cedar. Medium-bodied with moderate acidity and tannins, making it an easy-to-drink wine that will appeal to every palate. A weekday wine that is perfect with burgers, pizzas and steaks. Needless to say, this wine would also make a nice base for sangria. Olé! (SL)
UNITED STATES 91 LA CREMA WILLAMETTE VALLEY PINOT NOIR 2014, OREGON ($38) Beautiful nose of woodsy black cherry, cassis, violets, ripe plum and baking spices. It’s both supple and succulent on the palate with a rich broth of cherries, plums, raspberries, espresso bean, earth and well-integrated spices. (RV)
88 MCMANNIS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015, CALIFORNIA ($18.70)
Purplish. Sweet blackcurrant and blackberry notes fill the nostrils along with controlled oak. On the palate, this is a fruit bomb. The soft tannins are completely wrapped in fruit and oak, acidity is on the low side for even more softness without falling into flabbiness. An easy red that will please every palate, even if it lacks character. (GBQc)
DESSERT 95 DE BORTOLI NOBLE ONE BOTRYTIS SÉMILLON 2013, NEW SOUTH WALES ($29.95/375 ML)
A must for all sweet wine lovers. Pale amber in colour with an intense nose of honey, dried apricot and barley sugar. Full-bodied, sweet and unctuous but beautifully balanced with amazing length. Just a joy to drink. (TA)
93 CHURCHILL’S CRUSTED PORT 2007 ($29.17)
The “poor man’s vintage port,” this must be decanted to yield a clear deep garnet wine. Rich aromas of plums, wood, liquorice, chocolate and autumn forest. The palate is still fresh and fruity, tasting of strawberry jam with warm alcohol and an earthy background. Drinking very well now, but will improve for another year or two, then continue to be enjoyable for several more years. (RL)*
92 CHURCHILL’S VINTAGE PORT 1994 ($38)
After decanting, this is a clear, medium-deep maroon. Mature, healthy nose of fruits stewed in brandy, sweet black liquorice and a hint of varnish. Surprisingly light-bodied and light-flavoured, tastes of blueberry and cherry and even overripe peaches. Mature now, but good acidity will keep it fresh-tasting while it plateaus for a few more years. (RL)*
91 INNISKILLIN RIESLING ICEWINE 2014, NIAGARA ESTATE ($79.95)
If anyone knows how to do Icewine, it’s Inniskillin. Its 1989 Vidal Icewine put Canadian Icewine on the global wine map by taking home the prestigious Grand Prix D’Honneur award in Bordeaux. The world took note and so should you; this Icewine deserves your attention. Made with Riesling grapes, this delicious Niagara nectar is intensely perfumed with vibrant notes of sweet petrol, stewed peaches, baking spices, warm apple pie, white flowers and lemon zest. One sip of this elixir, and an elegant mélange of wild honey, dried apricot and blood orange flavours will envelop your taste buds. A lively acidity and a succulent finish will make you want to take another sip. Don’t be afraid to experiment with unconventional pairings. Icewine isn’t reserved just for desserts anymore. A refreshing tartness partners well with not only the obvious, fruit-based desserts (think baked apple pie, warm peach crumble or creamy, lemony cheesecake), but also the not-so-obvious savoury items such as aged cheddar, duck pâté or foie
gras on a crostini and even seared scallops with an apple celery slaw. A musthave on the dinner table for any elegant occasion. (SL)
90 LA GUITA MANZANILLA, JEREZ ($15.95)
Manzanilla is the driest style of sherry produced around the town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda on the southwest Spanish coast. It makes a wonderful apéritif to stimulate your appetite. The ocean air imparts a salty note to this crisply dry, light-bodied sherry with a nose of camomile flowers and a flavour of green nuts. Chill it and serve with tapas. (TA)
88 QUEVEDO LBV LATE BOTTLED VINTAGE PORT 2011, DOURO VALLEY ($29)
Black plums, caramelized brown sugar dominate the nose, overlying a burnished tar and brandy note. Very concentrated, young and fiery (as expected of young port of this age), the ripe cassis, black cherry and blackberry jam is mellowed with slightly worn (though still grippy) tannins, enabling its easy drinking now, especially with strong blue cheese. Brown sugar returns on the finish, as does some heat, though easily tamed with more time in bottle or a suitable pairing. (TR)
87 HARDYS WHISKERS BLAKE CLASSIC TAWNY PORT NV ($23)
This screw-cap tawny is a ringer, very sweet, with roasted hazelnut, walnuts, brown sugar, maple, baked figs, orange oil and fiery peppery spices filling a syrupy palate. A hint of eraser/rubber lingers underneath, but piercing orange acidity whisks that away. Sweet coffee and marmalade on the warm finish. An easy, accessible and exuberant tawny. (TR)
BEER RODENBACH VINTAGE 2014, BELGIUM ($12.65)
This legendary Belgian brewery specializes in making Flanders Red — a beer
style that straddles the line between red wine and beer. Rodenbach makes four variations of the style, which is usually blended from young and old versions for a consistent flavour. The Vintage, which is hand-selected from a single barrel each year by a tasting panel for its unique, stunning flavour profile, is worth seeking out: the 2014 was released in Canada early this year. Pouring a copper-hue with jammy raisin notes, sour cherries, lemon and an edgy, spicy tart kick. Great with an eggy brunch, or earthy, slow-roasted meats like goat and lamb. (CL)
the Year at the Great American Beer Festival, in part because of this outstanding IPA. There are a lot of amazing IPAs to choose from in America, but Melvin is the one that hopheads keep coming back to. Brewmaster Kirk McHale is a California expat and hop savant who oversaw the saliva-inducing brews at Pizza Port and now fashions award-winning recipes for this Wyoming brewpub. Pouring a brilliant amber with a creamy head, this smooth IPA explodes with tropical fruit aromas, balanced by an ample, lightly caramel body. (CL)
HALO EVENT HORIZON FOREIGN EXTRA STOUT WITH SARSAPARILLA, ONTARIO, ($6/500 ML)
LE TROU DU DIABLE, DULCIS SUCCUBUS, QUEBEC ($20/750 ML BOTTLE)
Cacao nibs, dark fruit, vanilla and a whisper of coffee ride on a creamy, full wave before giving way to a rootbeer-kick and a long, dry finish of Baker’s Chocolate. Inspired by molecular gastronomy’s scientific flavour combinations, brewmaster Callum Hay combines culinary and natural beer ingredients for a pint that is greater than the sum of its parts. Take the creamy mouthfeel of this beer into hyperdrive by pouring it over two scoops of vanilla-bean ice cream: these mini beerfloats make a delightful end to a dinner party. (CL)
NECTAROUS FOUR WINDS DRY HOPPED SOUR, BC, 5.5% ABV ($8.10 / 650 ML BOTTLE)
Named “Beer of the Year” by the 2016 Canadian Brewing Awards, this American-style wild ale pours a hazy peach hue with a white head. Hoppy aromas of kiwi and mango erupt out of the glass with a sip of passionfruit, light florals and tart lemon. This medium-bodied brew has plenty of acidity and a dry, puckering grapefruit pith finale; it expertly integrates tropical-fruit-like hops and tart, wild-yeast flavour. (CL)
MELVIN IPA, MELVIN BREWING, JACKSON, WYOMING ($12.99 USD/6-PACK)
In 2015, Wyoming’s Melvin Brewing was named Small Brewpub Brewer of
A peppery saison aged in freshly-used Sauternes barrels from a California winery for six to eight months. The result is a made-in-Shawinagan saison with aromas of passionfruit, papaya, juniper and must, leading to a sip spiked with gooseberry, white wine, lime and a tannic, mouth-coating finish. (CL)
CIDER RAVINE LOWRY BROTHERS PEACH CIDER, NIAGARA ($11)
It’s made exclusively from 100% freerun peach juice (crushed, not pressed) and fermented in stainless steel tanks to produce a dry, crisp cider that celebrates fresh Niagara fruit. Don’t expect to be hit over the head with peach flavours; it’s more subtle than that and offers up genuine fresh peach flavours in a harmonious style that is all together a satisfying and refreshing sip of goodness. No sugar, no tricks, just farm-tobottle deliciousness. (RV)
MICHEL JODOIN CUVÉE BLANC DE PÉPIN 2014, QUEBEC ($12)
This still cider packs a punch at 12% alcohol. In the glass, a fresh-wood oven-baked apple pie nose. Surpisingly, it doesn’t show its punch, instead giving us a soft, smooth palate and a long, fresh apple, bitter finish. (JS) FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 63
DAVINE BY GURVINDER BHATIA
IS HONG KONG A MODEL FOR THE WINE MARKET IN ALBERTA? AT THE INVITATION OF THE HONG KONG GOVERNMENT, I RECENTLY SPENT A WEEK IN THE SPECIAL ADMINISTRATIVE REGION (SAR) OF CHINA. I met with government
officials from InvestHK and Commerce and Economic Development, members of the wine and restaurant trade, wine store owners and a Hong Kong-based Master of Wine. I also attended the Hong Kong International Wine & Spirits Fair to learn about the city’s wine-related businesses, the regulatory and tax structures in which these businesses operate, and the wine culture and trends in Hong Kong, China and Asia. What became abundantly clear is that this highly concentrated population centre (roughly 7.2 million people in
64 × @QUENCH_MAG × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
1,104 square km is the wine hub of Asia and one of the most important markets in the world. The major catalyst for the rise of Hong Kong’s wine industry appears to be the elimination of all taxes on imported wine in 2008. Actually, it was the removal of all taxes on alcohol under 30% alcohol/volume, which specifically benefited wine, beer and sake. All duty-related administrative controls for wine imports were also removed as was the need for wine importers to register, thus eliminating the tiered system of importers and distributors. According to InvestHK (the government department responsible for attracting and facilitating foreign direct investment into Hong Kong), since the
elimination of tariffs, the value of wine imported into Hong Kong increased from US$367 million in 2008 to US$1.38 billion in 2015. In addition, all the major auction houses have set up in Hong Kong (which makes sense according to Gregory De’Eb of Crown Wine Cellars, who determined that 15 to 17 percent of all fine and rare wine in storage facilities around the world was owned by Hong Kong collectors and approximately 50 percent of the auction buyers for rare and fine wines are based in Hong Kong). Crown Wine Cellars may be the premier state-of-the-art wine storage facility in the world. Hong Kong appears to have become a major redistribution point to ship wine to
other parts of Asia, in particular Mainland China (where the admin controls are much more arduous), as according to the Hong Kong Department of Commerce and Economic Development, 80 percent of wine imported into Hong Kong is re-exported throughout Asia. The question becomes, how can Alberta learn from the Hong Kong model? Like Alberta, Hong Kong is a nonwine producing state. And we all know that liquor laws across Canada are antiquated and rooted in Prohibition-era thinking. The laws of this country should reflect the current social norms, as opposed to almost century-old attitudes. ALBERTA TOOK A MAJOR STEP BY PRIVATIZING THE IMPORTATION AND RETAILING OF ALCOHOL IN 1993.
The result was better selection and access for the consumer. But I’ve always said that privatization didn’t go far enough. There is already no barrier to entry in Alberta with respect to the importation of wines, but let’s contemplate going further. First, from the HK model we see that it is okay to distinguish wine and craft beer from high-alcohol spirits. Then, let’s go a little crazy. The Alberta government should eliminate provincial taxes on wine imports, eliminate the tiered system of importers and retailers, allow private warehouses for the storage and distribution of wine and allow direct sales from importers to restaurants and importers to consumers. The government should also allow wine auctions so people can sell their collections for profit (currently they can only donate to charity wine auctions). The result should be even greater selection, better service, the lowest wine prices in the country and an increase in corporate tax revenue from existing and new companies in the wine industry and related businesses (which should more than compensate for the loss in import tax revenue — which is exactly what happened in Hong Kong). It is important to note, as the issue arises anytime there is a discussion about evolving liquor laws that may make wine
more accessible, that after the overhaul of the tax and regulatory system for wine in Hong Kong in 2008, the SAR has experienced no greater incidence of alcoholism or alcohol-related issues. That’s according to all members of the government and wine industry with whom I spoke. A key component that needs to occur is beyond the control of the Alberta government, but may be imminent. The current court case may ultimately result in the elimination of barriers to interprovincial movement of all goods, including wine. It all starts in New Brunswick, where Comeau was charged with carrying 14 cases of beer and a few bottles of liquor across the border from Quebec. He fought the charges and won on constitutional grounds — but the case has been appealed and may end up going all the way to the Supreme Court of Canada. If the case reaches the Supreme Court and if the decision is upheld and provincial borders are opened, Alberta’s open importation coupled with the archaic monopoly systems in the other Canadian provinces would create the opportunity for Alberta to become the wine distribution hub for the rest of Canada. HERE IS THE PROBLEM. A complete overhaul of the laws surrounding the importation, distribution and sale of wine in Alberta is long overdue and needs to be seriously reviewed. But until the government stops thinking about wine as a controlled substance and instead looks at it as most of the rest of the world does — as part of culinary, which is part of culture and integral to the cultural and economic fibre of a community, Alberta is going to miss a tremendous opportunity economically. Looking one step further, Alberta could potentially become a wine hub for parts of North America as, with the currency exchange, more expensive wines are less expensive for those paying in US dollars. Complete reform of the liquor taxes, laws and regulations is beyond the scope of the Alberta Gaming and Liquor Commission (AGLC). They are operating
within the framework of their mandate. The impetus must come from the Premier’s office and the Minister that oversees the AGLC — ie., currently Premier Rachel Notley and Minister Joe Ceci. Until the potential effects of the Comeau case are realized and the barriers to the interprovincial movement of goods are eliminated, the argument can be made that Alberta cannot reap the benefits of my proposed reforms. So, let’s compromise. The Alberta government should: lower taxes on wine imports (Hong Kong lowered taxes in stages before eliminating them entirely) and eliminate the tiered system of importers and retailers; allow private warehouses for the storage and distribution of wine; and allow direct sales from importers to restaurants and importers to consumer and allow wine auctions. The province should set the stage for when provincial barriers do fall. In fact, the Alberta government should support Comeau in his fight as the province stands to benefit significantly if the case is upheld. There is little question that liquor laws across the country are antiquated and archaic. They are based in the government protecting us from ourselves and in many instances the laws and regulations have the opposite effect of what is actually intended (take fenced-in beer gardens, for example, which encourage binge drinking and overconsumption). My message to the Alberta government (and all provinces across our great country): truly be progressive and create a system based in the next 100 years as opposed to the past 100 years. If the province doesn’t at least explore the possibilities, at minimum it is not reflecting the social norms of society and at worst, the province is missing out on an opportunity to diversify its economy in a very significant way. The Premier and Minister must look beyond the myopic way that government in North America has traditionally looked at wine. It’s time to go beyond the political rhetoric about being progressive and actually be progressive. It’s time we entered the 21st century and kept up with the rest of the world. × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 65
AFTER TASTE BY TONY ASPLER
WHAT I AM THANKFUL FOR I am writing this column on Thanksgiving Day — I know it’s February for the most of you, but bear with me — and it makes me reflect on what I am grateful for in the world of wine. First, I’m grateful to the man who taught me about wine when I first got into the subject that would become a lifelong, consuming passion, as well as my profession. His name was Gordon Bucklitsch; he was the principal of the Grants of St James’s Wine School in London, which I attended in 1975. A latter-day Falstaff, he believed that a cork had no further use once it had been drawn from the bottle. Gordon had served in the Royal Navy during World War II and that experience shaped his wine vocabulary. He would refer to the bouquet of Château Margaux as “tarred rope.” Among the valuable lessons he taught me was that Champagne is the antidote to seasickness. In 1976, we were crossing the English Channel in a force 9 gale enroute to Champagne. The majority of the passengers were hanging over the ferry’s railings, losing their lunch. For a portly man, he had no difficulty negotiating the deck in a rolling sea and he instructed me to follow him downstairs to the bar. I was feeling somewhat queasy myself, but I joined him below deck, where he ordered a bottle of Champagne and two glasses. “Trust me,” he told me, “This will settle your stomach.” We stayed in the bar for the entire crossing, demolishing the bottle, and I felt as right as rain. I am forever grateful to Dom Pérignon whose innovations in the production of Champagne in the early 18th century paved the way for the creation of an industry that has given more pleasure to more people down the ages than any other manufactured product — including the condom. I am grateful to the Cistercian monks of Clos de Vougeot who, through trial and error, discovered that certain plots of ground created the best wines in Burgundy. They isolated Musigny from whose vines I tasted the finest red wine of my life: Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Vieilles Vignes 1964. The bottle was a gift from Gordon Bucklitsch and I drank it on February 13th, 1975, the night my son was born — the whole bottle, since my wife was somewhat preoccupied. I am grateful to Emperor Napoleon III. The President of the French Republic instructed the merchants of Bordeaux to rank the best wines of the Médoc and Graves for display at the 1855 Exposition Universelle de Paris. The only faux pas they made in their classification was to designate Château Mouton-Rothschild as a Second Growth, a blunder that was corrected in 1973 when Mouton was elevated to join Lafite, Latour, Margaux and Haut-Brion as a First Growth. 66 × @QUENCH_MAG × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017
That was the year that Pablo Picasso died and the artwork on the upper part of the label for that vintage is en hommage to the artist. Baron Philippe de Rothschild chose a reproduction of his Indian ink Bacchanale that resides in Mouton’s famous wine museum. I am also grateful to the anonymous men and women who for centuries have rolled up their trousers and hiked up their skirts to tread the grapes that make vintage port. I am grateful to the winemakers through the ages who cocked an eye at the sky, praying for rain when they needed it and praying for none when they harvested. They are indeed God’s children, who, by some alchemy, can transform perishable fruit into nectar that can live as long as a human being. Lastly, I am grateful for wine consumers who have raised their level of knowledge over the years that I have been writing on the subject so that I will never again have to answer the question: “Should I swallow my gum before I taste? × ILLUSTRATION: FRANCESCO GALLÉ, WWW.FRANCESCOGALLE.COM
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