Beyer's BywaysCollectorsEdition Rediscovering the Roads Less Traveled
John R. Beyer
administrator, an
many other things
John R. Beyer, Ed.D./Ph.D.
John R. Beyer
2 Pulse Custom Magazines
reaches of
an
forgotten most of them.
J ohn R. Beyer has been a law enforcement officer, an educator, an adventurer, explorer, so he has probably His Southern California to the far planet He
Author of Hunted/Soft Target/Operation Scorpion/Iquitos, The Past Will Kill - Police Thrillers Black Opal Books Columnist, Beyer's Byways, USA Today Network Member, International Thriller Writers 2020 California Journalism Award winnerhttps://jandlresearchandexploration.blogspot.com'Columns'http://johnrobertbeyer.weebly.com/https://muckrack.com/john-beyer/articlesContactatbeyersbyways@gmail.com
John R.
and
earth.
has received awards for published fictional short stories as well as the California Journalism Award for his weekly travel column, Beyer’s Byways. More information can be found at johnrobertbeyer@weebly.com and https://jandlresearchandexploration.blogspot.com.
Beyer
four published novels delved into the underbelly of criminal activities from
BYWAYS
John’s talent and background has played a major part in the success of PULSE Custom Magazines and our sister publication PULSE of the High Desert newspaper. This is a collection of some of his articles with photos. If you have a location that John could feature in his work please get in touch with him. We are honored to feature John’s work in a number of our publications. We look forward to continuing this relationship into the future. We too, hope that you enjoy BEYER'S Pulse
Jim Conkle
Like what you see in this magazine? We are Pulse Custom Magazines and we specialize in creating customized magazines and other media for communities or regions who want to get their story out to the world. We will work with you to learn about who you are, what you do, what to see and all that you have to offer. Then our team of experts will use a variety of tools to help you entertain, educate, and inform your intended market by using one or more of our uniquely styled media platforms.
It is not often that a publisher gets to work with a writer/photographer who is both a friend and contributor to our publications.
Custom Magazines 3 Editorial
Those media platforms are: • A custom magazine like the one you’re holding in your hand, • Our INFO-videos that virtually takes people down a scenic road, inside a museum, walk a trail or visit a destination, • Our INFO-maps that geographically show people where you and your attractions are located, • Our web-based INFO-guides that help the public interact with and learn about your community, • Public relations campaigns, • Create/design/conduct physical tours of your community. For more information or to get started, please contact us. We look forward to hearing from you! Jim Conkle Publisher 66jimconkle@gmail.com 1 760 617 3991 John Kafides 66jkafides@gmail.com 1 760 987 1600 Jorge Leandro Rodrigues Graphic leandro.works@gmail.comDesigner 55 16 99991 0229 Lori Weston Lori@motherroadenterprises.com 1 760 680 9472
R
Anyway, that volcanic explosion would have been something to witness — from a distance, of course. Bring out the popcorn and a suitable beverage for the show of a lifetime. Probably should also have a fire retardant umbrella, just in case of floating fire cinders or something else hot enough to ruin your day or life.
4 Pulse Custom Magazines
Beyer’sAmboyByways:Crater, a sight to behold — and explore John R. Beyer
Of course, there is no evidence that anyone lived in the Mojave Desert during that time. Then again, this is still up for debate. There may be something enticing in the Daily Press archives about the Early Man Site near Yermo — just sayin’.
Actually, according to several scientific resources, the first suspected volcanic activity in the area near the present small town of Amboy, was about 80,000 years ago and it kept burping up magma for thousands of years. Anyone who has traveled Route 66 eastbound from Barstow knows something catastrophic happened there. Miles and miles of magma fields, giving the landscape an almost out of this world appearance.
oughly 10,000 years ago, according to all the scientific types, there was a huge volcanic eruption not far from the city of Barstow. So close, in miles as those crows fly, that anyone living there would have looked up into the eastern sky and scratched their heads in wonder. What was that? What could that have been? Is there something we should be doing at this time with all that smoke and fire in the sky? I wish we had finished that living trust before all this, don’t you?
Pulse Custom Magazines 5
“When have I ever done anything stupid?”
According to NASA, a pretty decent resource in itself, a volcano is an opening on the surface of a planet or moon that allows material warmer than its surroundings to escape from its interior.
Come on, we all know after watching, Dante’s Peak. It was a big Hollywood hit in 1997, and made us all experts in what is really happening down in the bowels of the earth. Who can forget, unless you never watched the film, Harry Dalton — played by Pierce Bronson (enough to go to Netflix now?) stating, after finding two people boiled to death in a seemingly cool pool of mountain water: ‘It’s really hot down in the earth,’ as he scratched his two-day growth of beard on his handsome face. ‘So hot, that sometimes yucky stuff comes to the surface and really makes a mess of things — including my hair and make-up.’
“Yes, I looked on my phone – you are correct.” “It’s not really a great idea to hike in the desert during the summer.”
For the next several hours (or was it only moments?), Laureen went through an entire litany of the things I have done in my travels which could be questionable, as either being stupid or supremely adventurous. I went for adventurous. When hiking in the desert during the summer, one has to be prepared. A backpack full of yummy snacks, bottles of water, a first aid kit, and a copy of the Daily Press — got that Matt? Where are you traveling? Take a selfie with the Daily Press paper in your hands and you may be in the next edition — what a great idea. So, I arrived at the Amboy Crater trail around seven in the morning — it was warm but not the melting type of warm. Laureen, being smarter than me, only shook her hear head as I left our abode for my morning hike to the Amboy Crater.
“Not your smartest idea.”
But what is a volcano?
Driving that lonely stretch of highway, away from the hustle and bustle of Highway 40, gives a person a chance to slow down and take a look around at the gorgeous stretch of desert. And in that middle of that stretch of the desert is a 250 foot tall and nearly 1500 foot wide ancient volcano named appropriately, the Amboy Crater.
I made those script lines up — literary license invoked.
I had a thought about a spicy burrito being the cause of a volcano, but that would be childish. So, a road trip to the Amboy Crater was placed on my itinerary. As the heat of summer was upon us, Laureen had a comment about that idea of mine. “You know, it is summer.”
I was the only one there for the nearly two hours of hiking — maybe it was the heat — and it was a wonderful experience. To look at this crater and realize I was standing on the top of something so powerful was intense. Though I have never been to the moon or any other planet besides the one upon which I currently reside, I wondered if this is what future explorers will witness. Well actually, I hope if we visit another planet there may be people or beings with whom we can talk. But I don’t want wind up in a cook book a la Twilight Zone. On a serious note, and I hate those, hiking during the summer in the desert must be well thought out beforehand. If there are signs warning of excessive heat precautions, which I semi-ignored, stating that hiking is not recommended, then heed the signs. I’m a professional — okay, that doesn’t cut it for moving around in the desert when it is 400 degrees. Take ample precautions, start very early in the morning and be done well before the sun is directly overhead. Otherwise, Fall would be a wonderful time to explore the beautiful Amboy Crater area.
“Adventurous.”
The crater is only about two and half miles west of the small town of Amboy along Route 66. Being a national natural landmark, it is well marked with an easy drive across black asphalt to the parking area just at the beginning of the trail. There are restrooms, picnic tables, and kiosks telling the visitor what they are viewing in the near distance. The volcano looms up from the desert floor like an impregnable castle from the days when knights controlled the countryside. Well, that would be knights like in ancient Europe and not the United States, but the sight is pretty awesome.
Hardened black flows of ancient volcanic rock covers the entire area, comprising of nearly 24 square miles. When this thing erupted the last time, it sent volcanic debris flying in every direction and rivers of molten lava covering the desert floor like bugs on road kill. That was gross, sorry. That was deep and shallow at the same time.
6 Pulse Custom Magazines
The trail to the top of the Amboy Crater is an easy stretch of a little over a mile with signs indicating which way to go. The climb to the top of the craters rim is a bit steep, but nothing that sturdy shoes cannot handle.
Iread that Kelso was a ghost town. I like ghost towns, though I have never met a ghost, and as I’ve mentioned before, as for whether or not they exist, the jury is still out for me. But, traveling the byways as I do, it may be cool to stumble across a real ghost town – especially from the late 1900s and see a ghost cowboy riding a ghost horse, through the dusty streets of that ghost town.
Kelso
Kelso train depot
“Howdy, pardoner. You afraid of ghosts?” I’d just shake my head. “The jury is still out if you exist.” “A jury found me guilty, and hung both me and my horse.” I saw that in a Mel Brooks film. Awkward moment. “Yeah, I bet they did. Can I take your photograph?” “We’re camera shy,” he might respond, and ride off into the sunset. Not sure he’d ride out during sunset, but that sounded so cowboyish. So if Kelso, which is located about thirty-five miles south of Baker along California route 127, is a ghost town, I knew there should be nothing there. According to Atlas Obscura – what a truly cool name – it states, NOW LITTLE MORE THAN A ghost village, Kelso Depot is a historical oasis in the desert of the Mojave National Preserve
Pulse Custom Magazines 7
The Kelso Visitor Center sign is NOT a ghost town
Kelso was growing so rapidly, with the railroad depot and the mines that an old fashioned strap-iron jail was brought into the town. It was used for detaining local drunks and those not adhering to mask wearing guidelines. As always, along these routes, the population dwindled with the advent of the automobile, the super highways miles away, and more convenient comforts allByaround.1986, the depot was no longer needed and was abandoned. By the mid-1990’s, the railroad decided to tear down the building down. So, when I drove into what I believe to be a deserted and nothing to write about town – I was pleasantly surprised: Kelso is not a ghost town. It’s not a happening place, but it’s not a ghost town. I saw people walking around, houses, and a very ‘not torn down’ Kelso railroad depot. In
Kelso, was the base of operations for the San Pedro, Los Angeles and Salt Lake Railroad, which connected with the Union Pacific Railroad tracks. It was also a great deal for the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway as well. The depot would furnish water and provide helper locomotives that would assist the longer trains heading up the steep grade toward Cima Hill. The train trip from Los Angeles to Las Vegas was long, and the passengers, as well as the railroad workers, needed a respite during their travels. Kelso Depot was the perfect fit. In 1923, the actual depot building was built which contained a restaurant, boarding rooms, and a telegraph office. The restaurant was named the Beanery, which served supposedly home cooked meals. Supposedly, since I’m not sure which family’s home was going to claim that name. “Yep, my house smells like a beanery. Want to come over for dinner –it’s a gas.”
As the town grew, the depot became the center for the community. Meeting rooms in the basement allowed the townsfolk to hold townsy events year round. The building was beautifully designed, in the likeness of a California mission. It was the centerpiece for the small but vibrant desert village.
8 Pulse Custom Magazines
The old United States Post Office in Kelso John at the old Kelso iron jail
The bottom line is that people started moving to Kelso Depot, as it was known then, in large numbers. And by the 1940s, over two thousand people called the town home. Of course, it didn’t hurt that when those droves of humans moved in, borax and iron strikes were found locally, employing miners from everywhere. Then came the discovery of silver and gold in the nearby hills, and more droves of humans moved in. Follow the money, and the droves did. Okay, I’m done using the word droves. The mining area around Kelso was so successful, that it actually became known as the Kelso mining district. An interesting point: the original name of the train stop was Siding 16, because of its location and indicating there was water not far away. Apparently Siding 16 sounded boring, so it was decided a name needed to be chosen to give the place a true identity. Well, these were railway men, and they believed in doing things the engineering way. So, three names of local railroad workers were tossed into a hat, a name was drawn, and the winner was John H. Kelso. Rumor has it, that John H. Kelso actually tossed in a two dozen more slips of paper with his name on it, thus rigging the selection. Okay, I might have made that up. John H. Kelso was considered an upstanding community member – and check out that first name – of course he was.
Not sure why they choose to use all capital letters at the beginning of the statement, but that’s the reason I went there. Capital letters in the front of a description of a place must mean it’s really worth visiting. Would anyone travel to Italy to visit the Coliseum if the travel brochure stated – well, yeah, Rome is cool, if you like history and that kind of stuff? The history of Kelso is worth learning before your visit. The town was built in 1905 as a train depot, and soon people started coming in droves.Notsure what a drove is. Did some research and one source, onlineslangdictionary.com, stated that a drove is – when someone is confused, mad, or if someone just did something really stupid, they’re drove Another source said that a drove is when a number of animals move some place all together. Probably the more accurate definition.
Pulse Custom Magazines 9 fact, the depot looks much like it did when first built back in 1923. It is gorgeous – and I don’t use that term lightly. In the early 2000’s, a group of historians decided that the depot needed to be saved. In 2005 the renovation was completed. A great job by all involved in this effort – I must say. Green grass, tall cooling palms, lush green bushes line the walkways and yards to the entrance of the Kelso Visitors Center, housed in the depot. I couldn’t wait to walk inside, meander the aisles of touristy stuff, and ask some questions of the docents working the center. But, this is COVID19 time. The place was closed. I looked inside the windows, but to no avail. It was devoid of humanity. Snapping some photographs of the surrounding area, and watching at least a dozen or more tourists arriving in the center’s parking lot made me a bit sad. Motorhomes, trucks loaded with camping gear, cars with roof racks stacked with suitcases, and seemingly nowhere to go. But that is not accurate. The great outdoors is always beckoning, and near the town of Kelso, there are ample opportunities to just go and enjoy nature. The Mojave National Preserve, where Kelso is located, is over one and half million acres of desert. That is enough area for anyone to enjoy –hiking, off-roading, exploring, or just sitting at a camp site enjoying the stillness of a desert evening.
Kelso train depot
There are the Kelso Dunes (which I planned to visit but ran out of time on this trip), the Cima Dome (which I also planned to visit but ran out of time on this trip), and other places which – you get the message. Expect a sequel to this column. There are only so many hours in a day – but there are other days to return to those places we missed at first. Kelso is not so far away in space or time that one cannot return and see more deeply what one missed at first glance. Every great adventure is worth a second glance. I plan to return, and I hope you will to.
Old train schedule in Kelso
10 Pulse Custom Magazines
Needles Charles Schulz returned to his home town for a photo op
It is the city where Charles Schulz, of Peanuts fame, spent part of his childhood – thus the reason why Snoopy’s brother, Spike, resides in Needles. This lovely little burg is also where Bess Houdini, the wife of the internationally famous magician, passed away in 1943. Alice Notley, a 1999 finalist for the Pulitzer Prize in poetry, grew up here. Oh, this town has seen it all. The construction of the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railway, brought Needles into existence in 1883. A tent city quickly erupted along the desert floor for the railroad workers and those taking care of the workers
A s John Steinbeck wrote in The Grapes of Wrath – ‘Then out of the broken sun-rotted mountains of Arizona to the Colorado, with green reeds on its banks, and that’s the end of Arizona. There’s California just over the river, and a pretty town to start it. Needles, on the river.’
A small town with big history Welcome to Needles on Route 66
Being a Steinbeck fan, I knew there was much to explore in the city of Needles. Of course, we had passed by the city a million times while traveling along Interstate 40, but never had taken the time to stop and really look around. That small city of Needles hugs the western shore of the Colorado River. It’s a peaceful town with a long and rich history. A short drive along Route 66 to the center of town, can easily let the visitor know that this town needs to be explored. And explore we did. Steinbeck had been correct with his musings. Needles is truly a pretty town and with such an eclectic history, it draws visitors from around the world.According to the president of the Needles Regional Museum, Marianne Jones, “I would say we receive over three thousand visitors each year to our museum from all over the world. People are fascinated with the lore of Route 66. We get people from China, France, New Zealand, Ukraine, and from anywhere imaginable. As a matter of fact, most of our visitors are from Germany.”
Harvey House? Sounded like a frat house. Nope. Fred Harvey, was a genius when it came to taking an idea and turning it to fruition. With the development of the railroad, the entrepreneur decided there was a need for high class food and service along the railway lines. He opened his first restaurant in Florence, Kansas in 1878 and expanded westward. Harvey is considered by many, to be the creator of the concept of chain restaurants and by the late 1880’s, there was a Fred Harvey dining experience every 100 miles or so along the Santa Fe railroad line. The Harvey House in Needles Laureen walking our furry pets in Needles
Pulse Custom Magazines 11 – dry goods stores, laundry facilities, restaurants, and of course, saloons. Folks get awfully thirsty in the desert. Soon, the tent city turned into a permanent settlement, with Needles being the largest river port north of Yuma. Yes, a port city. This is before the dams were built further north along the Colorado River, shrinking the flow and thus negating the need for paddle wheels and barges which had plied the crystal blue waters.
Railroads took the place of delivering goods, and now, according to Jones, “The city gets a lot of train buffs who spend time here because of the rich history of the railroad and the Harvey House across the street.”
The name of the town, Needles? Where did that come from? I remember my grandmother wielding sewing needles like the Vikings swung broad swords. Get out of the way! But what kind of name is Needles for a town? Turns out though it’s rather simple. There are a group of large sharply pointed pinnacles just southeast of the current city of Needles, on the Arizona side of the border, stretching skyward. “It’s funny,” Jones mused. “Our name comes from across the river, in Arizona, yet we’re in California. Oh well, the name stuck and we like it.”
Needles offers many exciting events every year keeping the rich history of the town alive. On March 13th, Laura Tohe, the daughter of a Navajo code talker will be discussing her father’s involvement in this highly secretive but critically important job during World War II. We plan on visiting – perhaps you should too. For further information.
She also mentioned that most travelers believe that Route 66 is one block south, but is actually on Front Street. “They realigned the streets, we are on the actual original route.”
One of the first theatres in Needles
12 Pulse Custom Magazines
The waitresses, Harvey Girls, were trained to be the best in the business. Fred Harvey had strict guidelines for all employees – guests should be treated with first class food and first class service. The waitresses became so well known that in 1946, Judy Garland, starred in a film based on the novel by Samuel Hopkins Adams, entitled, The Harvey Girls Needles happens to be home to one of the most luxurious depots that houses a Harvey House – the original depot burned down in 1907, but when rebuilt, the railroad spared no expense to reconstruct the masterpiece the following year. The two story structure was named after Father Francisco Garces, who in 1776, traveled through the Mojave Desert and became known as the first European to make such a venture. The El Garces is a short walk from the Needles Regional Museum and is definitely worth the steps.
The entire town is worth a visit for anyone interested in Route 66 lore, early California history, the railroad, and so much more. Laureen and I only spent a few hours but know we will return to continue to investigate and explore.
http://needlesregionalmuseum.org/
Heck, even Hollywood came out with a television series, Bagdad Café in 1990, starring James Gammon, Whoopi Goldberg, Cleavon Little, and Jean Stapleton. After two seasons it went bust. A good film, not so good a series, perhaps – it happens. “This will be great,” I told Laureen, as we took the eastbound Newberry Springs exit from the 40 and drove onto Route 66. “It’s an old café,” she replied.
View of the Bagdad Cafe used in film Pulse
CaféBagdadThe
Custom Magazines 13
In the late nineteen eighties, Newberry Springs was the scene for a meeting of the minds, between Hollywood and a German film crew. They met to discuss the filming of a rather eccentric movie, the Bagdad Café. One problem though, there was no Bagdad Café in Newberry Springs. There once was a town of Bagdad, with a cafe, about fifty miles east of Newberry Springs. But when Interstate 40 made Route 66 seem like an afterthought, the town, like the desert sands, just blew away. Not enough business to maintain its lifeblood, it just stopped breathing. There’s nothing left today to prove Bagdad once existed, but a few concrete steps and a slab here or there, indicating where a building may once have stood.Hollywood, with the German screenwriters and director, didn’t let those facts stop them. They just renamed the Sidewinder Café in Newberry Springs to, yes, wait for it – the Bagdad Café. And that is the magic ofWeHollywood.don’tneed no stinking reality – we’ll just make up our own. So, on a Sunday morning, we decided to take the short drive to Newberry Springs and check out the Bagdad Café. After the release of the film in 1987 in Europe, and in 1988 in the United States, the name of the Sidewinder Café was eventually changed to the Bagdad Café in 1995. A sound marketing tool, to incorporate the name of a film which used the restaurant for its focal point. The film, starring the likes of C.C.H Pounder, Jack Palance, Christine Kauffman, and German actress, Marianne
Sagebrecht, won 6 foreign film awards, including Best Foreign Film at the 23rd Guldbagge Awards in 1988. In 1988, the film won an Oscar for Best Music, Original song by Bob Telson, Calling You.
Another view of exterior “It’s historic. A place where two cultures, Germans and Americans met and created something special. I call it, where Hollywood and Berliwood shook“You“Berliwood?”hands.”know,Berlin.”
I nodded. “Yeah, like Bollywood, but from a German perspective.”“Thatmakes sense,” Laureen mused. But, I don’t think she bought my conjecture on the topic. We pulled in front of the red painted building with brown wood shingles on the roof. Laureen was right, it was old and bit worse for wear. “Look at that,” I said, while pointing to a large black and white tour bus. There in front of us were dozens of people taking selfies by the entrance to the Bagdad Café and others just walking around looking this iconic building up and down. “French,” I announced excitedly. “They’re French tourists.” Laureen nodded in agreement. “Did you get that from the French they are all “Deadspeaking?”giveaway,” I returned.
The restaurant is open daily from 7 a.m. until 7 p.m., and according to the owner, Andrea Pruett (she goes by André), “We get so many tourists, and it is really crowded sometimes. You know, we are the most visited café in the world.”
14 Pulse Custom Magazines
I wasn’t sure that was accurate, but in deference to the owner, I remained mute on the topic. Though, this café must be the most visited in the area. Plaque depicting history of the restaurant Laureen enjoying a cold drink at the Bagdad Cafe
a culture shock,” stated the petite woman. “The people called me, Hollywood, because I came from the Los Angeles area. My husband told me to enjoy the quite of Newberry Springs where I could just write. He’d run the restaurant, and my job was simply to come in once per day to collect the money.”
Pulse Custom Magazines 15
We had lunch and visited with André, between her greeting the numerous tourists. She was correct on both counts – the food was tasty and there were a lot of people stopping by the historic site. This place, this Bagdad Café, is a must to see for any film buff. Not just the history of the building, but the impact it made in the cinema world joining the realms of cult classics. A place most have never hear of, but which made it into the stratosphere of filmology (yes, it is real – the study of film making – taken from, filmologie – and of course, it’s French!). So take a short byway off the road most traveled and find yourself something of international intrigue, on Route 66. Interior shot of the restaurant
Seemed reasonable. The problem was, according to André, “There never was much to collect each day. It’s gotten better though, with the tourists – still wish they’d spend more.”
Entering through the single door of the café, we were taken aback by the hundreds, if not thousands of flags hanging from the ceiling. It seemed every country on earth was represented inside the Bagdad Café.“See what I mean?” André stated. “Most tourists are French; they loved the movie. But there are flags from Germany, Spain, and pretty much everywhere.”IaskedAndré, how many tourist buses stop by. “Oh, I don’t know –probably five or six per week. Most of the time, they just stop, take photographs and leave. They don’t spend a lot of money here. But we do have good food.”
André has owned the small local tourist attraction for 23 years, moving from Canoga Park to Newberry Springs with her husband. “It was quite
The only living remnant of the town of Bagdad Original site of the town of Bagdad along Route 66
The proverbial cat was out of the bag, I found cemeteries interesting. But don’t all taphophiles? Still can’t get used to that term – sounds really creepy.“So,Ishould meet this Joe Manners?”
Oro Grande
“Well, he’s the honorary mayor. Joe Manners is nothing but a fount of knowledge where it concerns Oro Grande. You’ll find him very interesting; and he’s the caretaker of the cemetery.”
Good enough for me. Mayor Joe had brought about a million file folders with photographs showing Oro Grande from its earliest days and we went through them one at a time. He sipped a cup of coffee and told me stories about Oro Grande, and the seventy-four years he has lived there.
“Joe, before we start going through all the history stuff, why do they refer you to as the mayor?”
The Cross-eyed Cow restaurant in Oro Grande
“Yes, you should,” Kathleen replied. And met him I did, on a lovely but very warm morning at his office away from home, the Cross Eyed Cow Pizza restaurant along the National Trails Highway, in Oro Grande. Why the name cross eyed cow? Wondering if there are such things or was it just a made-up term for the pizza joint. The name was kind of catchy, though. Something a person would likely not forget. But, was there such a thing as cross eyed cows? I googled this cross eyed cow thing, and sure enough, there are lot of cross eyed cows roaming the countryside of the United States. Of course, I mean no disrespect for these cows, but I was just curious. Curiosity satisfied. Joe Manners, like his last name indicated, was very cordial and polite, and most importantly, on time. And as Kathleen had indicated, a virtual cornucopia of knowledge when it came to Oro Grande.
I marveled at this man’s memory. I was just hoping I could remember where I had parked my car before the meeting.
“Because I’m very involved with the community, and one day years ago somebody called me the mayor. It’s stuck ever since.”
16 Pulse Custom Magazines
The file folders were full of black and white photographs, color prints, newspaper articles, and an assortment of other items which were treasures on their own. Each had its own story to tell, describing a bit of the history of this little town just north west of Victorville.
One photo from the fifties showed a bunch of smiling young school children, and he named each and every child. Another photograph was of the opening day in April of 1961 of the Griffith Henshaw Memorial Park, and Mayor Joe could recall the name of everyone in the picture. Yet another photograph depicted some cave-men riding dinosaurs, and he could name everyone in the shot, including the dinosaurs. Okay, I made that up. He had forgotten the dinosaur names.
A friend of ours, Kathleen, contacted me and said I needed to meet the mayor of Oro Grande. I didn’t even know there was a mayor. “They have a mayor?”
For nearly an hour I was taken on a journey back in time to when Oro Grande was first developed as a mining community through to the present day. It is a lot to take in. I mean a lot of history here detailing the strong men and women who came to the Victor Valley and settled here in the earliest days. “Why isn’t there a museum here?”
“You know, we were the first settlement in the High Desert,” Mayor Joe“So,said.you are like the original O.G.? Get it, Oro Grande, O.G.” Mayor Joe ignored me. Wisdom along with a good memory. Another photograph really got my attention. The photograph showed two train robbers on horseback who had held up a train coming into Oro Grande on April 20, 1898. In the ensuing robbery, two men were killed, the train engineer, Clifford, and one of the robbers, Jones. “What’s really interesting is the young woman standing in the white dress,” Mayor Joe said. “That’s“Why?”the lady in white. She haunts the town.” Interest piqued. “Really?” “We have quite a few, shall we say strange sightings in town,” Mayor Early settlers of Oro Grande
Some antique shops along National Trail Highway Pulse
“Not much interest and we’d need a building and a lot of donations,” Mayor Joe responded. It seemed every town in the High Desert had a museum, large or small. Shouldn’t Oro Grande have one, depicting its special history?
The Iron Hog saloon and restaurant in Oro Grande
Custom Magazines 17
“Mayor Joe, the ghosts or orbs?” He smiled and led me on a tour through the graveyard – telling me the history of nearly every person laid to rest here. It was touching, as was the pride of loving attention Mayor Joe showed to every site which was plainly evident. “I give tours you know. If anyone wants to have a history lesson in the cemetery, all they have to do is contact me. Usually the folks at the Cross Eyed Cow know where to find me.”
“San Bernardino County helps out a bit, and just a couple of days ago, Captain Bryan Schultz, brought his county work crew up here and cleared all the weeds away. There were a lot of them, but they did a great job. Helped me out a lot.”
The local and haunted cemetery of Oro Grande
The “Wecemetery!evenhad ghost hunters out there. You can see their videos on YouTube.”Fifteenminutes later I was following Mayor Joe in my vehicle, to the Oro Grande cemetery. I found it parked right where I had left it earlier in the morning. My memory wasn’t as bad as I’d feared. Not only is Joe Manners the honorary mayor of the town, but he has also, by his own choice, taken on the responsibility to be the caretaker of the town’s boot hill.
18 Pulse Custom Magazines
The honorary mayor of Oro Grande - Joe Manners
The honorary mayor also informed me the town was starting to come alive again - no pun intended - as the COVID-19 restrictions were lessening. Soon, the antique shops will be open, a person will be able to sit inside the Cross Eyed Cow or the Iron Hog Restaurant and Salon, and maybe, next year the Oro Grande Days will be in full swing. The celebration was cancelled this year due to the virus. “The town will be back in business very soon. It’s a great place to visit,” Mayor Joe stated. I would heartily agree.
Mayor Joe pointed to a tall flag pole in the cemetery. “Osborne Pipe and Supply installed the flag pole and base. They help the town a lot, too.”The pole, with the stars and stripes waving in the slight breeze over where not a weed could be seen, nor any ghosts dancing amid the wooden crosses or tombstones either.
Joe informed me. “Especially at the cemetery.”
Most cemeteries, not that I’m an expert, are quiet and reverent places. This one was no different. Very neat and clean.
L
“A“Bergamot?”citrusfruit – very calming, and when added with the other ingredients, it has a very nice aroma.”
I nodded. The cost – nope, not going there, but if it calmed everyone down, that would be a good thing. So, sitting around one evening, a friend asked me if I had ever heard of the Mojave Megaphone. I replied that I hadn’t, but I did remember the megaphone my high school football coach used on a regular basis. “Beyer, you are the slowest runner in the entire league,” he would yell, using his five thousand watt, pearl white hand-held megaphone. “My grandmother could outrun you, and she’s been dead for the past twenty years!”Thatmade no sense. I wasn’t buying, even as a teenager, that people
Who doesn’t like a bit of a mystery?
“It’s a bit of iris, vanilla and bergamot.”
Pulse Custom Magazines 19
istening to a tale of the unknown - goblins, ghosts, monsters, things that are beyond the understanding of the human brain, and perhaps . . . Goosebumps? Probably not – I rarely get goosebumps myself, until I see how much was spent on the necessities of life each month, according to Laureen. “What is a Guerlain, Shalimar?”
John standing near the megaphone
who had passed on could actually run faster than me. But, never argue with a coach who routinely used a fifty thousand watt megaphone to let you know he was not pleased with your athletic performance. I wasn’t a dumb kid. Did I run faster? Probably not, but I pumped my arms faster – it gave the illusion I was. Soon, the megaphone was pointed at someone else. “Mudd, if the ball touches you, you own it!” Nope, never had heard of the Mojave Megaphone. Sounds pricey… like that AccordingShalimar.toCampsitePhotos.com, the megaphone may have been used by the United States military during the 1940’s and 1950’s while conducting ‘secret’ and nasty types of chemical weapons tests, in the remoteness of the Mojave Desert.
20 Pulse Custom Magazines
John doubting a signpost near the megaphone
Abandoned railroad bed looking south toward Ludlow
In agreement, according to in-the-desert.com, this mysterious object in the desert was used as a siren. A siren for what? To warn people that the United States government was about to release lethal amounts of gas into the wastelands of the desert between the towns of Ludlow and Baker. Obviously, more research would clearly be needed.
One more try with the google searches. I found a recent article by Nathan Chandler, published on January 15th, 2021, which provided a bunch of other ideas on why this contraption was located in the middle of nowhere. He had interviewed a number of people to get the low-down on this piece of metal sitting on top of a rocky hill.
The megaphone is about eight feet long, weighs nearly six hundred pounds, is hollow, narrow in the middle and wide at each end. The object is securely attached to two solid rocks with bolts drilled into those rocks.Chandler’s sources reported the megaphone could be thirty years old or more, and may have been a Venturi pipeline venture. Huh? Had to look that up, and here it is –‘The principle behind the operation of the Venturi flowmeter is the Bernoulli effect. The Venturi measures a fluid's flowrate by reducing the cross sectional flow area in the flow path and generating a pressure difference.’ Okay – that explains everything to me. But, according to Chandler’s article, the idea was, the United States Air Force was testing a lot of new types of aircraft back in the 1950’s and 1960’s, and the instrument was used to test shock or sound waves.
According to wehavenoidea.com, the object sat on top of a small hill in the Mohave Desert, and is simply: there. I called the CEO to learn if they had any further details on this enigma. “No, we have no idea.” “Really, such a mystery, I surely thought you’d have more information,” I pressed the issue. “Once again, what is the title of our website?”
Custom Magazines 21
Paul Bakas showing the size of the megaphone Drone shot of the megaphone Pulse
“Someone once was delivering something way out here?” Paul asked. “Chemicals, for chemical tests?” I suggested. “I have no idea,” he responded. Seems to be the theme. After a few photos, we moved on toward the rocky hills ahead of us. The road was pretty hard packed, with only a few patches of soft sand, so we never needed to engage the four-wheel drive. One mile, two miles and no megaphone. It was supposed to be here. “It has to be here,” Paul said, as he poured over some online photos of the area he had printed prior to our trip.
The issue was we hadn’t looked in the rear view mirrors. There it was, sitting proudly atop of a hundred foot high rocky hill.
Taking Exit 50, or the exit which points to Ludlow, we turned left at the end of the exit and drove north along Crucero Road, passing the soon to be reopened and newly remodeled ‘DQ’ – can’t wait until it reopens. Enjoying a banana split in the middle of the desert in the summer heat, is truly living. Back to the megaphone. With all safety in mind when driving on dirt roads in the desert, always be aware of the conditions of the road and the weather. Much of the land between Interstate 40 and north toward Interstate 15, have areas where the sand can build up causing a nightmare without a 4x4, and in inclement weather can cause mud or torrents of water crossing the desert.Inother words, look at weather reports and make sure the vehicle you are driving is appropriate and prepared for off-roading. Have fun, but be cognizant of the conditions under which you are traveling. We drove along Crucero Road for about twenty-three miles, give or take a mile, and came across the remnants of a railroad trackbed, just west of the road. There weren’t any steel rail to be seen, but the railroad ties were still sitting in the afternoon sun, atop the trackbed. The trackbed was going straight as an arrow, due north from our location, toward some hills.
That makes more sense. But, two of my favorites from the article are: the megaphone is pointing toward a huge cache of gold, or that aliens may have set it there. “Humans will be puzzled by this thing,” Zoog announced. “Doesn’t look much like a megaphone, to me,” Ryszig sneered in reply. There was a mystery afoot, and I had to use my feet to solve it. Actually, my friend, Paul, and I took my Toyota FJ. Better than walking. The directions to this wonder of wonders were easy to follow – no need to utilize the GPS, and risk ending up in Seattle. We left at the crack of dawn, or probably closer to nine in the morning, and headed east from Victorville toward the town of Ludlow, along Interstate 40. There is another route from Interstate 15, but since this is the way we went, that’s the one I will write about.
“Wouldn’t have missed it if we had headed south from the fifteen,” heThatstated.was evidently true, as I looked up and realized that from one direction the megaphone would be hidden from view, but from the other it would be in plain sight. The trek to the megaphone is not for the weak of heart. It’s not that high, but there are boulders to scramble over and is pretty steep.
I was sucking air, like I had forgotten how to breathe, by the time we reached the pinnacle. After a moment though, the effort had all been worth it. The megaphone, is a large, rusting piece of welded metal solidly attached to the rocks, and just plain cool. Whoever had the fortitude to place it there was either a genius or crazy. Paul pounded on the side, a low ring emitted from the megaphone, “This is awesome.” I only nodded, it truly was. Is the trip to the megaphone worth it? Yes, it is. Exploring the empty desert and marveling at the solitude and beauty, always is worth it. We speculated over its designer and its purpose, long into the evening until our campfire grew cold. And what better ending to a day, then to stumble upon a mystery bolted into the rocks in the middle of nowhere, and wonder why. Perhaps one day some intrepid explorer will discover that horde of gold hidden away by some long forgotten miner.
A close up of the megaphone 22 Pulse Custom Magazines
Pulse Custom Magazines 23 HuntedISBNOperation#9781533348203Scorpion-#9781626945968
WICKIEUP ARIZONA Snoopy's rocket in Wikieup 24 Pulse Custom Magazines
When driving along Highway 93 in Mohave County we always make a stop in the small town of Wikieup. Why would this tiny spot on the map in Arizona interest us? Simple – it’s fun to say. “Let’s stop in Wikieup. We need to stop in Wikieup. Do you want to stop in Wikieup?”
Pulse Custom Magazines 25
“I’d wish you’d stop saying Wikieup,” Laureen would state. “You do that every time we drive through here.” She just doesn’t get it. Saying Wikieup is like a mental exercise that forces the body to relax. I recently stopped in Wikieup for a bite of lunch. Dazzo’s Chicago Style Eatery is on the north side. Their advertisement is simple – Taste of Chicago without the eighteenhundred-mile drive Not wanting to add more miles on my vehicle, I ordered a hotdog with theSittingworks.at nearly two thousand feet in elevation, the area surrounding Wikieup is lush with green desert plants. As far as the eye can see, are Joshua Trees, Creosote, Saltbush, and so many more I didn’t have time to write them all down.
I asked her what makes living in Wikieup worthwhile – besides the name. “We’re a close-knit group,” she said. “In fact, two days ago the Wikieup Trading Post burned down, and the whole town showed up to help fight the fire. Unfortunately, it was a total loss.”
According to a 2016 census count, there are about one hundred ninety people residing in the town. Local resident, Savannah Cox disagrees with that purported number though. “A few years ago, there were probably three hundred people living here,” she stated. “The numbers seem to go up and down. A whole bunch of folks will move in and a bunch move out. I think the number is higher than what is reported.”
That was news to me. Laureen and I had stopped there numerous times in the past. It was an iconic part of the town, opening in 1962. Restaurant, gift shop, gas station, and best of all friendly owners and staff. “They will rebuild it,” Savannah stated. “We’re like that here.”
That is what is great traveling the byways. Meeting people like Savannah and others with the same fighting spirit. May be down for a moment but they won’t stay down for long. On the northern outskirts of town, there was a historical marker for the Big Sandy Valley, where Wikieup is located, which stated the following: First exploration probably by early Spanish explorers, Espejo in 1582 and Farfan in 1589. Explored later by Lt. Amiel W. Whipple in 1854. Important agriculture, mining, milling, and smelting area in our early days. The McCrackin Mine discovered by Jackson McCrackin and H. A. “Chloride Jack” Owen in 1874, lies 18 miles south. The Signal Mine was 12 miles south. Stamp mills were at Greenwood, 8 miles southwest and at Virginia City, 9 miles southwest. Cofer Hot Springs 3 miles east. It was erected by the Arizona Highway Department in 1966 and according to the Historical Marker Database, the marker was stolen years ago. This valley has seen a lot of history. Unfortunately, because of some soulless person, travelers won’t be able to stop and read the marker. I stopped at the still smoldering remains of the Wikieup Trading Post. Walking around the property, I could remember the last time Laureen and I had stopped by. Booth on the southwest side of the restaurant. Laureen had a twenty-ounce steak, half dozen eggs, a side of biscuits, and I had a bowl of oatmeal with raisins. Fine, I embellished, it was only a fifteen-ounce steak.
Dazzo's Chicago Style Eatery Beautiful green scenery near Wikieup 26 Pulse Custom Magazines
He’s authored books involving the search, the finding, the naming, and all sorts of other scientific stuff about comets. Including one on the Comet Hale-Bopp, which sounds like a song you might hear at a sockhop in the 1950’s. I thought it would be awesome to meet someone so smart, so I started looking around the small town for his abode. But decency got the better of me. It was just past noon and a guy who spends his night staring into space probably was asleep. Next time through Wikieup, I’ll make it about two in the morning for a chit-chat over coffee and looking for that elusive Beyer’s Byway Comet 2021 with my soon-to-be new-found friend.
It was sad to see such an establishment no longer there. Even though, Savannah told me the owners would rebuild, what memories have now been forever lost? Officials were walking around, taking photographs, measuring. Obviously, the investigation was proceeding at full steam. “How did it start?” I had asked Savannah. “Probably some electrical problem. Everyone loved the restaurant and the owners. No chance it started because of someone on purpose,” she stated. “Just a sad accident.” I recalled Laureen and I taking photographs outside the restaurant with some western cutouts. Wikieup is like a lot of places I visit. And the research often surprises me. Like finding out that Charles Schulz, creator of the Peanuts strip, spent a few years as a young boy in Needles. Like finding out that Wyatt Earp had spent many of his final years in a small bungalow in the tiny town of Vidal. Like finding out that Donald Machholz lives in Wikieup. Who is this Machholz person? My research revealed that he is an amateur astronomer. And it just so happens that he is the astronomer who is the most successful visual comet discoverer around.
I love forests too, unless I drive into a tree when Sasquatch appears in my lane. Only happened once, near Eureka, but terrifying none the less.
Pulse Custom Magazines 27
Robert, who seemed to oversee pretty much everything at the campground and other ones, told me that this place was special with lots of visitors. Burned out shell of the Wikieup Trading Post
Driving south out of Wikieup is a pure delight. The countryside rolls this way and that, never losing the high desert greenery. Vistas of flattopped mountains are in all directions; as are sharp peaked pinnacles. I once heard a person remark that the desert is a dead place. Obviously, they had traveled the roads through this majestic landscape with their eyes closed – not a good thing to do while driving.
Anyone who has traveled either paved or unpaved roads across the Mojave Desert (or Mohave – if you are in Arizona) knows the place is filled with life. Abundance of plants across every square mile. Wildlife skirting here or there – or perhaps winging above in the heavens. White puffy clouds floating effortlessly across the skies. Night skies that can take a person’s breath away with the cosmos shining down. No, the desert is alive with everything.
Stopping at the Burro Creek Campground about twenty miles south of Wikieup for a brief respite. It’s not a long distance, but I was tired. Wandering and pondering makes me tired.
Machholz has twelve comets named after himself, from 1978 to 2018. He probably just found another as I’m writing this piece. I hear its going to be, Beyer’s Byway Comet 2021 – Why not?
Let’s get this straight – he has discovered more comets than anyone living currently and he’s an amateur? How many have the professionals discovered from their backyard in Arizona?“Ithink I got one,” stated Dr. Celestial Hubble. “Nope,” replied his staffer. “That pesky fly on the mirror again. Perhaps we should call Machholz in Wikieup.” “You just like saying Wikieup. No comet named after you.”
It was a beautiful and idyllic spot. I walked around the campground, enjoying the scenery. Horned lizards, regular lizards, and one wearing Gucci sunglasses scampered by my feet. Hawks and other raptors circled the air above me, including a government drone. It was a wonderful place to just walk and relax in the afternoon sun.
The Big Horn Sheep – always the Big Horn Sheep. “Even though I work here, my kids and I love coming on my days off to enjoy the beauty of the place.”AndRobert was correct. The miles and miles of country surrounding Wikieup is worth any amount of time to stop. An hour, a day, a night – no matter – just stop and look around. The traveler will be glad they did. I was.
“Maybe not during the summer,” Robert stated, “but the rest of the year we are packed. Snowbirds love us. Locals love us. And people driving through often stop just for the day and hike the canyons and along the creek, which runs pretty much year-round.”
“We see all sorts of wildlife,” stated Robert. “Coyotes, foxes, and even Big Horn Sheep.”
28 Pulse Custom Magazines
Bridge over Burro Creek Burro Creek Campground outside of Wikieup Pulse Custom Magazines 29
Chimney Rock in Lucerne ValleyHenry's art studio - stop on by 30 Pulse Custom Magazines
Pulse Custom Magazines 31
There are so many more films, television series, and commercials that have been shot in Lucerne Valley – but, I just got lazy, and decided mentioning the three most popular films was enough to make my point.
any from the High Desert have driven through Lucerne Valley a number of times. Perhaps on the way to Big Bear. Perhaps on the way to Joshua Tree National Park. Perhaps on the way to Landers to experience the Giant Rock. Or perhaps just to stop in Lucerne Valley for breakfast or lunch, on the way for some heavy duty four-wheeling in Johnson Valley.
But, Don Henry, owner and awesome artist, of ‘Art by Henry’, had something to add to those few I Laureen and I had stopped by Henry’s studio years ago, at the corner of Highway 18 and Trade Post Road, on our way to Big Bear. Bought a couple of pieces of art from the gentleman and then left.
And perhaps, according to imdb.com, to film some of the following movies – Valkyrie (2008), Green Lantern (2011), and Alpha II (2918).
Lucerne Valley
While I was back in town, I stopped by his business again. “Didn’t you stop by here years ago?” Don asked. “Yes, of course. You recognize me, since I don’t age,” I responded. “What do you want?” Did I mention Don is a pretty straight shooting kind of guy? Of course, being the social butterfly I am, Don and I hit it off immediately again. “You know, I was in a music video, here in Lucerne Valley.” He told me. “The Hollywood types always use this part of the desert for commercials, music videos, and the like. We’re remote, and I guess viewers like remoteness.”“Ilikeremoteness,”
Research, Watson, research. Turns out that Chimney Rock is an important part of the history of the Mojave Desert.
Welcome to Nelson Studios
Well, that part was more than I had in my bag of memorable moments with reggae singers. I listen to Bob Marley on Sirius – that’s all I have. But, I wasn’t in Lucerne Valley to discuss stardom with Don Henry.
32 Pulse Custom Magazines
Chimney Rock historical marker
I replied. He just looked at me. Turns out that Don Henry, was one of the actors in the music video by Kranium, filmed in Lucerne Valley in 2015. Kranium’s Kemar Donaldson, is a Jamaican reggae star. The video shot in Lucerne Valley was for his 2013 hit single, ‘Nobody Has To Know’. He played his role down though. “I was the guy in the video cooking and waving at the crew when they left. Not much of a part, but nice folks and very professional.”
Nope, a reader had written to ask if I had ever heard of Chimney Rock, just west of the town limits of Lucerne Valley. I know what a chimney is. I have plenty of fires during the winter, but no – not a chimney rock in Lucerne Valley.
The matter was settled at Chimney Rock. This was the final camp of the natives, and they were surprised by a posse who had been following them for months. There was a shootout, and the natives retreated to the desert areas. People of both parties were wounded and killed, and that was the last violent resistance in the Mojave Desert, according to historical sources.
Columns still standing at the Nelson Studios
On February 16th, 1867, a group of Native Americans found themselves fighting for their lives against a posse of settlers at Chimney Rock It is historically known as the last battle between immigrant settlers and Native Americans in the Mojave Desert. As with all history, there are two perspectives. Pioneers in the valley and up in the mountains near modern day Big Bear, had had enough of some of the local tribe members stealing their cattle, stealing their horses, burning down saw mills, burning down houses, killing a settler here and there, and just overall being aggressive.Then,onthe other side of the proverbial coin, the Native Americans didn’t like the settlers coming into the area carving up large amounts of territory for themselves. Erecting fences, constructing houses, creating more roads for more settlers, building towns, and having the overall effect of destroying their hunting grounds. Not a positive situation for anyone concerned.
Pulse Custom Magazines 33
“That was easy to find,” I said, as I pulled over and saw the markers.
I had driven to Lucerne Valley to investigate the site of Chimney Rock It was easy to find. At the junction of Highway 18 and Rabbit Springs Road, there are two stone markers indicating the site of the last struggle between natives and settlers.
“Hey, that looks like a chimney,” I stated, wishing Laureen was there to respond – instead of sounding like an idiot talking to myself. “Wish Laureen was here.”“Stop talking to yourself.” I said. I had brought a metal detector for some searching around Chimney Rock. Never know what a person may find at the site of the last struggle between Native Americans and settlers. Bullet casings, belt buckles, or even a bucket of gold.Itwas windy, chilly, and the hike would be well over a mile from where I was parked. And, there probably would be no pot of gold, so I decided to drive into Lucerne Valley and have a look around. When in doubt, take the easy route – another great motto. Entering the town, I passed another place we had driven by many times in the past but never explored. ‘Nelson
I took some photos of the hills northwest of the markers and peered through a metal tube on the marker on the right. Looking through the tube, a person has a perfect sight to where chimney rock is.
“Now what?”
Studios’. Cafe 247 34 Pulse Custom Magazines
Could Julius Caesar have stopped by Lucerne Valley to build a new empire? He was powerful, egoistical and had desired world domination. “What do you think, Crassus? Should Lucerne Valley be our next conquest?”“Idon’tthink that’s how it happened,” Don Henry told me. “What I understand is that the studio was actually manufacturing things for Hollywood films. Like you saw as you walked around today.” That meant Cabe’s research was more accurate than mine! Foiled again. The day was spent, and so was I. Lucerne Valley is not a place to drive through from here to there. It is a place to stop. There is so much history, that it would take hours, if not days to take it all in. Businesses are open, so take a moment and spend some time. Perhaps, like me, you may see the ghost of Gaius Julius Caesar hanging around, near Nelson Studios. If not, how about a burger at Café 247? They are real. And tasty. Oh, also stop by and chit-chat with Don Henry at his art studio. He has some real interesting items there, and is a local history book on legs.
That’s his style – facts matter.
My take: he got it wrong. As I walked through the deserted grounds of the Nelson Studios, what I experienced was tumbled down Roman columns, Roman tubs, Roman walkways, Roman benches with all those fancy curly kind of designs they were known for. “What do you want on that fountain?” “Some curly rock carved things. What do you think? “I like curly fries.” “Sorry, we’re two thousand years before they are invented.” It was eerie, each step I took around the grounds I expected a Roman Centurion to come at me asking my business. “Draw your sword,” he would demand. “I have a camera with a flash,” I would threaten.
Art by Henry Pulse Custom Magazines 35
The location is easy to pinpoint on the north side of Highway 18, and the water tower with the name of the studio emblazoned on it, was a dead giveaway. The entrance is guarded by beautifully decorated stone walls with two ornate iron gates. Very impressive, but there is no film studio. Why was this place deserted? I took out my phone, and asked Mr. Google. A little research led me to an article from the Daily Press, published on September 22, 2016. It was written by none other than Matthew Cabe. His piece, This Desert Life: My Nelson Studios Obsession, is a must read. Fascinating, and full of research on how this place came about and the Detaileddemise.andprecise.
And, where was Matt wrong? I’ve traveled a lot in the desert over my years. Met great people from all the places I never knew existed. So, in those travels and listening to what I’ve listened too, perhaps there is another reason for all the Roman stuff laying around the Nelson Studios
“The history of Daggett isn’t known by a lot of tourists, but we are in the works to change that"
36 Pulse Custom Magazines
Santa Fe street, with the Mercantile, Stone Hotel and Fourts Building
Mark Staggs
Daggett
Pulse Custom Magazines 37
I heard Staggs was giving a historical tour of the town, I knew it was time to revisit and learn more about the history of the town. Native American hieroglyphics
Hidden Treasures
According to Mark Staggs, President of the Daggett Community Service District, the small town of Daggett has big plans. “We have big plans,” Staggs stated. I have always had a soft spot for this little berg, ten miles east of Barstow on Interstate 40. I used the town of Daggett for one of my novels, Operation Scorpion. I spent some time there, doing research for the fictional piece, and met some really nice folks. But, since the publication, I haven’t been back. Sure, I drive by quite often, on my way to here and there along the interstate, but I rarely stop.So,when
“The history of Daggett isn’t known by a lot of tourists, but we are in the works to change that,” he shared. Those are the big plans Staggs had mentioned earlier while conducting a fascinating tour of the Daggett Museum. For many, Daggett is not known at all. A dot on a map between Barstow and Needles along the black ribbon of a busy interstate. But back in 1939, with the publication of John Steinbeck’s novel, Grapes of Wrath, the small town got a mention. When the Joad family, from Oklahoma, drove through the inspection station just east of town, those refugees from the Dust Bowl had officially arrived in California. According to the Daggett Historical Society, the town was founded in the 1860s, but did not become known as Daggett until 1883. At this time, the mines were running full steam in the nearby Calico Hills. The residents realized having the mining town of Calico near Calico Junction may be a bit confusing – so, the folks decided that the name Daggett may fit the bill, using the last name of then Lieutenant Governor of California, John Daggett. It is rumored, and don’t we all love rumors, that the Lieutenant Governor had visited Daggett at some time. Well, here’s something of note about Daggett which isn’t a rumor. Helen Muir, the daughter of the famous naturalist, John Muir, resided in Daggett. She was instrumental in assisting her father with his writings and correspondence, but being in poor health, the family moved her from northern California to the warmer climate ofOtherDaggett.visitors to Daggett during its heyday included Walter E. Scott – better known as Death Valley Scotty, Francis Marion Smith – better known as the Borax King, Tom Mix – better known as Silver Screen Cowboy, and Wyatt Earp – better known as ‘I get around the West a lot.’
Remains of the ten stamp Columbia mill Old town water tower 38 Pulse Custom Magazines
Staggs is a nice guy – truly nice. He immediately made our little group of tourists feel right at home. He is one of those fellas who likes to tell a joke, while being serious about the history of the town he truly loves.
In fact, there was so much ore being ground up in Daggett that property values started rapidly increasing. So, when the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe (ATSF) railway were contemplating a location to build a heavy rail yard, the company decided on a small place named Barstow, since the land in Daggett was too expensive.
The town of Daggett kept growing as more and more silver was being mined out of the ground in Calico. The ore was shipped to Daggett, where it awaited a mill with ten heavy stamps, ready to start breaking up the ore and releasing the precious metals.
I followed Staggs to where remains of the Columbia stamp mill can still be seen. A large structure, nestled next to a hill, and when looking northeast, the viewer can easily see the ghost town of Calico. “They used wagons pulled by mules to bring the ore from Calico to here for crushing,” Staggs explained.
As to point this out, Staggs had us drive approximately a mile or so to the north of Daggett, where, behind a tall chain link fence, was a huge pile of dark colored rock. Upon those rocks were dozens of petroglyphs.“We’renotreally sure who created these glyphs, but we know they are hundreds of years old.” “I know they’re at least older than nineteen-forty-seven,” I replied. “Some local carved his name and date on one of the rocks.” Staggs nodded. “And, thus the reason for the fencing.”
It could take sometimes two days to reach Daggett for milling, depending the amount of ore being towed in the wagons behind the Twenty mule team wagons The Ski Lodge Roof House
there were quite a few indigenous peoples who had lived in the area, long before the settlers arrived looking for rich minerals or good lands for farming and grazing.
There is a lot of history in this town. After the museum tour, Staggs offered a hands-on tour of the area. Actually, it wasn’t exactly hands-on, but more of a drive-by and get out of your vehicle sort of visit to the numerous historical sites in and aroundAccordingDaggett.toStaggs,
Pulse Custom Magazines 39
Daggett continued to prosper and became a populated and happening town. At its peak in the late 1890s, it had three stores, two restaurants, three saloons, three hotels, a lumberyard, and many other establishments which would interest miners, visitors and locals.
“People have been living here for thousands of years,” he stated. “In fact, the Vanyume, or Desert Serrano were some of the Native Americans first encountered by the Catholic missionaries in the late eighteenth century.”
“Let’s speed up, Roger,” one drover may have been heard yelling at his partner on another ore wagon. “We’re going as fast as we can,” Roger may have replied. “Ole, Bessy is moseying at her top speed.” As it usually occurs with mining camps, the silver or gold ore eventually runs out. This was the case for Calico – once a rich and rowdy mining camp, it soon turned into a deserted dwelling. And in the late 1890s, the population of Calico dwindled until it became a ghost town. But one of the by-products which was found while mining in Calico was the substance, Borax. Turns out, Borax had many uses which made being human even more enjoyable. It can be used in toothpaste and as a laundry additive. It can be used for acne cure, skin creams, and lotions. It can be used for paints and ceramic glaze. But, most importantly, it can be used for making slime for kids. This product was a wonder find. Alf's Blacksmith shop Horse buggy
40 Pulse Custom Magazines
mules. That’s a long time for a mere seven miles.
For more information for tours –
Standing there, in the blacksmith’s shop, looking at these two men, it was hard to imagine they would fail at their dream of making Daggett a must go place to see. When I wrote my novel, I used Daggett as a place for the protagonist. There was a reason he had to go there. There was a reason I had to write about it. And, now it is a place for all with a love of history should venture to. 760-927-9155
This is a pretty ambitious belief for a young man who graduated high school in 2020. His love of Daggett is evident in every word he uses when discussing his hometown. “We’re going to make this town a tourist destination,” Vintus announced, while showing the tour group around Alf’s blacksmith shop, built in the late 1800s. His family has owned the property, where the shop is located, for decades – a lot of decades.
Lawrence Vintus, a member of the Daggett Historical Society and employee of the Community Services District, believes there is a rebound coming for the town in which he was born and raised.
As I walked through the tall dusty wooden doors into the interior of the blacksmith shop, I felt as if I had just walked back in time. Tools, from the late 1890s were lined up everywhere around the shop. It was though the blacksmith had just left for an afternoon break. “This is how my grandfather left it for us,” Vintus said. “Now we want to share it with everyone.” Staggs nodded. “Mugwumps is being renovated as a visitor’s center, with a restaurant, gift shop, and a place tourists can visit to understand the importance Daggett.”
Unfortunately, in 1911, richer Borax finds were located back in Death Valley, and the Borax King left.
So, in 1891, Francis Marion Smith – the Borax King - moved to Daggett from Death Valley and installed mining operations at the Borate mine, a few miles east of Calico. It was such a successful venture that in 1898, the Borate and Daggett Railroad was built to move the Borax to Daggett, which was easier and cheaper than the twenty mule team wagons which were being used.
Mugwumps - site of future Visitor Center Pulse Custom Magazines 41
The population and economy of Daggett soon decreased through the years, to its present day figure of two hundred citizens.
John standing in front of Gigaticus Headicus 42 Pulse Custom Magazines
Iwas having lunch with a friend of mine, Jim, when he asked if I had ever heard of the Giganticus Headicus. While popping another French fry in my mouth, I shook my head. “Not sure about that, and not sure that is truly a thing.”
Time to visit the Giganticus Headicus
Jim often asks me about if I’ve seen this or that while I travel.
Jim travels a lot too. And his main thoroughfare is the ‘Mother Road’, or the ‘Will Rogers Highway,’ or the ‘Main Street of America’ – all three are also known as just ‘Route 66.’ He has seen many things during his years traveling Route 66. At last count, I believe Jim told me he has traveled Route 66, all the way from Santa Monica to Chicago, about three thousand times. That makes Jim an expert on what is and what is not on Route 66. I’ve never been to Chicago, not even once. And, changing planes at O’Hare International Airport on the northwest side of the city, does not count as having visited Chicago. “So what is a Giganticus Headicus?” “It is a great piece of art, created by Gregg Arnold,” Jim replied. “Where’s it located?” “At Antares Point,” he said. “You’ve heard of that, yes?” I nodded. “Of course, that’s the bar where Luke Skywalker runs into Hans Solo and Chewie.” Turns out, there is a small village named Antares about twenty miles north-east of Kingman, Arizona. It began, as many villages did, as a railroad siding for the Atlantic and Pacific Railroad in 1883. The tracks at this point take a large curve in their design, as the rails headed south toward Kingman. In 1910, after the National Old Trails Highway made its way through the area, the village was incorporated into what is now Antares. In 1926, Route 66 blazed along the railroad tracks, and the area became a rest stop for those visitors heading either north or south through this part of Arizona. But, there is more to this little berg than just a fuel stop. There are over six thousand mining claims in the nearby hills, where copper, gold, lead, and silver were found in abundance. The village of Antares actually took its name from the star Antares, in the constellation
No speeding through Antares Point Pulse Custom Magazines 43
I had to park quite a way down a dirt road from the business since there were about two hundred people milling around for the unveiling of Arnold’s latest creation. Actually, I’m not sure if they were milling, to be honest – I not even sure what that truly means.
Gregg Arnold's, Camel of Route 66 Left: Artist Gregg Arnold with his newest creation
Alie is known for her work in many art media forms, acrylic, oils, and whatever else great artists use to slap on a canvas to express their inner most creativity.
‘Scorpio.’ The word is Greek, and means ‘rival of Mars’, due to the reddish tint of the hillsides created by the copper found there.
44 Pulse Custom Magazines
I found that research rather interesting, as I do most of my research – unless it has to do with how to take a dog stain off a living-room carpet. But, it also turns out that there is a small stop along Route 66 called Antares Point. It is owned by Gregg Arnold and his spouse, Alie Reynolds-Arnold, and is a place that is truly worth a parking break.
“That sounds like an adventure to me,” I told Jim. And, it was. As I rounded the bend just south of the village of Antares, my eyes locked onto a huge green tiki-god like sculpture to the left of the A-frame visitor’s center for Antares Point.
Though, most of the mines are now closed, there are still over two hundred in operation in and around the Hualapai Valley, where Antares is located.
Both Gregg and Alie are world-renown artists, and have their studio, the Antares Art Studio, in Kingman.
A small A-framed building is the center of Antares Point, which offers visitors a chance for a snack, a drink, and a gaze at some awesome pieces of art work.
Gregg, on the other hand, deals mainly in metal works. His metal sculptures appear all over the world, and the more detailed the better. Some of his work is on display, and for sale, at Antares Point. “Gregg is unveiling a new metal sculpture there in two weeks.”
Welcome to Antares Point Pulse Custom Magazines 45
“I wanted something to draw a person’s eye, as they drive by on Route 66. This did the trick, and they stop, and I get to talk with them about the importance of art and also, the magnificence of this road.”
Taking my leave from Gregg, I walked into the visitor’s center and was really amazed at the pieces of art that lined countertops and shelves around the rooms. Small pieces, medium pieces, and some large metal artworks, that were incredible in all their detail. Wandering through the store, I saw art magazine after art magazine with stories concerning this highly creative artisan. Of course, there were also books, photographs, signs, and other Route 66 memorabilia for sale, as well as a snacks and drinks for the visitors.AsIexited the store after purchasing something, Gregg was standing on the front porch of the establishment. I asked him how he got his inspiration for such a varied array of art works.
Giganticus Headicus, is huge – really a big-headed cement head which looks like it is buried up to its chin in the ground. Standing at fourteen feet tall, it isAtimpressive.thatmoment, the artist himself walked over to me. “What do you think?” “It’s big and green,” I replied. Arnold smiled. “Yes, it is, and the first time I used concrete in any of my artwork. The use of concrete was a new medium for me, but it worked out.”
“I thought of it while sleeping one night,” he replied. “I woke up and hurriedly jotted down the design. It was like an obsession with me. I’m sure being a writer, you probably get up in the middle of the night with something important on your mind.” I nodded, but didn’t reply. The only time I get up in the middle of the night is to find the nearest restroom.
Not being much of an art consumer, except for purchasing a couple of paintings depicting dogs’ playing cards, I asked what inspired him for this project.
“You’ll have to wait and see.” He smiled.
“For the entire month it took to complete it, it was all I could think of. I was totally obsessed and was physically and emotionally exhausted once I had completed it.” Gregg is a very passionate artist. He created the large tiki-head project at the studio in Kingman, and then transported it to the site at his Antares Point location.
More Gregg Arnold artwork 46 Pulse Custom Magazines
“What is going to be unveiled?” I asked.
There was a car show with some really sweet rides, and people were walking around gawking in admiration or jealousy. There was a band playing near some outdoor benches and awnings. And a man selling ice cream, singing Italian songs – no, those are the lyrics from a song by the band, Chicago. Anyway, there was quite a crowd and everyone was having a wonderful time while waiting for the blue tarps to be withdrawn from the newest art work created by Gregg Arnold.
“I was just milling around.” “Well, I was milling better than you.”
The protector of those traveling Route 66 Pulse Custom
Being as successful artist as Gregg is, his imagination must be on over-drive most of the time. While waiting for the unveiling, I busied myself chatting with car enthusiasts, Route 66 enthusiasts, art enthusiasts, and enthusiasts of enthusiasm.
The crowd’s reaction was over-whelming with clapping, cheers, and other loud noises of approval.Ilooked the whole situation over, the people, the art work, and the place – and realized that not only was Gregg a very accomplished artist, but his love of this country was palpable. It was certainly worth the drive to share in this moment along Route 66 at Antares Point.
Magazines 47
“My art just comes to me. I don’t know how or why, but it does.”
“I’m really enthused by being here,” said one lady.The time for the unveiling was suddenly upon us – time speeds by when everyone is enthused.Thenew metal structure, which stands at sixteen feet tall, is located on the north-west section of the property as planned by Gregg, so anyone traveling Route 66 would be able to see it right away. As though, anyone driving by wouldn’t first see a giant green head tiki-god in the front yard of Antares Point. That may slow a driver down a bit.
Gregg stepped up onto a concrete platform in front of the tarped covered stature, microphone in hand and spoke to the large crowd gathered allHearound.explained very eloquently why and how he created the art work. “This metal stature is to be the guardian of Route 66,” he stated. “I wanted something very special and meaningful for anyone traveling this wonderful roadway. I also desired it to represent the strength of our wonderful nation, and to stand tall with all those who have served her and continue to serve her, no matter their occupations.”Atthismoment, the tarps dropped, revealing a truly beautiful metal stature, of a female holding a shield, a crown, and carrying an American flag.
48 Pulse Custom Magazines ISBN Soft Target - #9781533348043 Iquitos - #9781644370339
