Real Escape at Pueblo Bonito

Real Escape

SUMMER • 2016

at PUEBLO BONITO in CABO SAN LUCAS

THE VIEWS GET EVEN BETTER FROM HERE p. 6

LET’S GO TO THE SKY

The best places to be when the sun goes down … and when it comes up

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The suitcases have been unpacked for one hour. Already, three team members at Pueblo Bonito have echoed the same thought: “You have to see sunset at the Sky Pool.”

Sounds logical: Watching the sunset from the tippy-top of the Sunset Beach Resort. So we take a ride in the Escalade of all golf carts, up a steep path of switchbacks, reminiscent of a drive in Mallorca. Up, up, up. High above the resort’s 13 restaurants, 635 ocean-view suites, and one large swath of golden sand.

We walk up a few tiers of stairs just in time to see the sky transform into a Crayola abstract.

With eyes fixed on the indescribable scene and with thoughts on its Creator, we hear the voice of our shuttle driver. “If you like this,” he says, “you should see sunrise at Pacifica.”

Sunrise at Pacifica, Sunset Beach’s sister resort. It so happens we’re staying there. We take another ride. Down, down, down. To rooms that seem to emerge from the sand. To the most glorious sunrise we could imagine.

FAVO R I T E DINNER VIEW

On the terrace looking out at the ocean and up at the mountains at the Quivira Golf Club’s Quivira Steakhouse.

Men, we dare you to order the cowboy steak.

FAVORITE BREAKFAST VIEW → Looking over the famed Medano Beach with a plate of fresh papaya from any of the restaurants at Rosé & Los Cabos.

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Real Escape at PUEBLO BONITO in CABO S A N LUCAS

HOW TO USE YOUR DINING SENSES These are more than meals. These are experiences.

T H E M I S S I O N →→Visit all four Pueblo Bonito Resorts in Los Cabos, with

their 27 dining options — quick bites at poolside to cuisine ranging from g gourmet Mexican to Italian to Asian Fusion. We will sample 49 specialty dishes and meet 20 chefs, learning tricks for preparing beets and filets. Here’s what else we’ll digest on our week-long exploration.

← The Sounds of Chefs’ Stories The men in the white coats and tall hats have come to Pueblo Bonito from places like Puerto Vallarta, Italy and Ruth’s Chris. They’ve learned their kitchen skills from world-renowned culinary schools and from grandma. Every chef we meet, like Chef Damian from LaFrida at Sunset Beach (left), has a passion for satisfying — and sometimes surprising — the palate. “You must be born with a love for this,” Chef Damian says. His creativity on this day brought us what he calls “tortilla octopus with a Greek influence.”

We were never big fans of octopus … not until our forks entered this picture.

The Sights of Jaw-Dropping Wonders Under our feet at Cilantro’s: a meticulously-tiled terrace. At our backs: the whitewashed Greco-Roman architecture of the Los Cabos Resort. In front of us: the sandy stretch of Medano Beach and outcrops of Land’s End (opposite page).

And under our chins: the artwork of Chef Luis — tuna tostadas and green ceviche. It’s a festival for the senses.

WHERE IT GOES

↑ T H E TO U C H O F O N E P L AT E AT A T I M E

The moon is lighting up the ocean, and the patio, at Pescados Sushi Bar at the Pacifica Resort. In the kitchen, Chef Octavio and his team cut thin slices of fresh tuna, salmon and sea bass. They curl the ginger and craft the shrimp. Our plate is a reflection of Pacifica: elegant … and quiet. “The presentation of each dish,” says the chef, “has to fit our location.”

This is a perfect fit.

Untouched leftovers from Pueblo Bonito’s restaurants are delivered to elderly people in the Cabo San Lucas community.

THE VIEW FROM HERE

The idyllic way to see El Arco? Follow us. the last evidence of the Baja Peninsula The 10-minute cruise leads us to the doorstep juts from the Sea of Cortez like a series of of El Arco just as sunrise stirs a colony of sea rocky superlatives (gorgeous, mysterious), lions on the shelf next door. followed by an exclamation point (wow!). We “This never gets old for me,” says Beth can see the formations called “Land’s End” Koopman, manager of aquatic tours for Cabo while eating salsa-slathered eggs at Rosé’s Adventures, “even after eight years.”

Mare Nostrum. But the specific icon known Beth’s accent is hard to identify. She was as El Arco (“The Arch”) is slightly out of view. born in Wales and lived in the Canary Islands “You need to see it up close,” before landing in Cabo. Parsays Gabriela, an event cooradise hopping. “My husband “You should dinator with Pueblo Bonito. and I figured we’d stay here for see the blue “And get out there early. I proma month. We never left.” whales in ise you won’t regret it.”

Beth lowers a kayak into winter. They’re So, the next morning, we the water. The sea lions make arrangements through stunning.” bark. El Arco lights up. We Pueblo Bonito’s concierge sercan clearly see Rosé and Los vice to take a ride in a 37-foot Cabos. Guests are no doubt Zodiak with Cabo Adventures tasting fresh salsas and gazing to the end of land as we know it. back in our direction. Wow!

BEST RIDES IN CABO Boats on the Ocean Cabo is known as the “Marlin Capital of the World.” Closer to shore the water is also teeming with tuna, dorado and, altogether now, wahoo!

ATVs on the River Ride along the desert, over mountains, and in the river deltas. Locals say to request a “Razor” ATV for best stability.

Feet on the Beach Baby sea turtles are released into the surf at dawn from September through December. One turtle was tracked from here to Japan and back, a five-year journey.

← A visit to Cabo has turned into a way of life for Beth Koopman.

5 UNFORGETTABLE MOMENTS

The ride around Quivira Golf Course is like an epic road trip … built around golf swings

we leave the pacifica resort before the coffee is on. It’s a short ride to Quivira Golf Club, where only guests at Pueblo Bonito’s resorts and Quivira homeowners are privileged to experience moments like these.

1 Driving on the beach. The first ray of sun falls onto the beach at Quivira’s driving range.

Yes, the beach. We could practically putt range balls into the ocean from here. “It gets better,” says a clubhouse attendant. With eyes wide, we head from the beach to the mountains.

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2 Frozen on the cliffs. The pace is casual

through the first four holes. Why hurry?

This masterpiece of desert, hills, ocean and fairways is why we have Instagram. Up past the bar at Cliffs Comfort Station, our relaxing drive comes to a halt at the fifth tee. “One of the most spectacular holes I’ve ever seen,” says Quivira’s director of golf, Antonio Reynante, who’s played on central America’s prettiest courses. “But trust me, it gets even better.”

How many times will we hear that today?

Every hole at Quivira has an ocean view. The 13th (above) is among Antonio’s favorites.

Real Escape at PUEBLO BONITO in CABO S A N LUCAS

JUST SAY “SPAHHH ...”

↑ “I’ve never seen anything like The Oasis Station.

It’s right there in the middle of your round.

A place to eat gourmet food and to stretch out the experience for as long as you want.”

3 The lights. We can see the new lighthouse

from anywhere in Quivira. But an even more unique landmark stands as if protecting the seventh tee box from a tumbling bluff: El Faro Viejo, or “the old lighthouse,” said to be the oldest structure in Cabo. History, in other words, is casting a shadow on our backswings.

4 Scenery with a scent. While cruising up the 8th fairway, we spot a structure peeking out from the dunes. From the open-face Oasis Station comes the smell of grilled tacos COMING SOON!

(“Crunchy Davids”) and more ridiculous views. So we sit. We let several foursomes come and go. Great moments need to breathe.

5 World views. It’s rare to play a course with ocean views on all 18 holes. Rarer still is a hole like number 13, with endless views of the beach where the movie Troy was filmed, plus a bird’s-eye view of bus-size boulders that look borrowed from the Seychelles. “In winter,” says Antonio, “we can watch whales breaching.” In other words, it only gets better.

The entrances to the three spas at Pueblo Bonito read “Armonia,” which means “Harmony.”

Step inside any one of them and notice how your shoulders sink and temples clear. And listen. The voices of masseuses are as soft as cotton. Spa director Pilar Gonzalez could practically spin socks when she gently offers these three tips.

1 Use the VIP room at Sunset Beach.

It’s a master suite for couples. You get the total experience, including chocolatecovered strawberries.

2 Ask for a vitamin-C facial. It helps prevent skin from aging after being in the sun all day.

3 Close your eyes.

Use your nose. You want to leave the spa remembering the smells — they can keep you relaxed for days.

The new presidential suite at The Towers at Pacifica will span 3,233 square feet of indoor and outdoor living space.

Real Escape at PUEBLO BONITO in CABO S A N LUCAS

HE FLIPS THE RELAX SWITCH Want a beach dinner at Pacifica?

A jar of pickles? Done and done.

It’s as private as any resort near Cabo.

The 154 rooms at Pueblo Bonito’s Pacifica Golf & Spa Resort are 10 minutes from town.

Isolated. Quiet. Scenic. It’s hard to imagine anything better than a private beach walk here. But later this year there will be even more privacy when The Towers at Pacifica open. The expansion will hatch a fresh, and real, concept: “A luxury resort within a luxury resort.”

Guests will be on top of the beach, with nonstop views from a beachfront gym, the Quivira Club Lounge, and a Baja Med restaurant. And then there are those six privatepool suites (and one presidential suite). Butler supervisor Joel Gadaz says, “More suites means we get to make more people happy.” Happiness is something he and his team know very well. → I’m as excited as anyone. I’ve watched the

“Look around. This is paradise.

As butlers, we get to welcome people into this kind of luxury. How could I not love that?”

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construction of the new towers. The butler suites will absolutely amaze anyone who steps into one, including me. → The new suites will allow us to do more of what we as butlers were born to do — serve and bring smiles to faces. → We turn anxiety into relaxation. Some champagne. Some fruit. Dinner reservations with the best views. Oh, but I’ll step out so you can step into your own pool. How nice is that? → We know everything about our guests.

What do they drink? Do they like being casual or formal? Do they have pets? We also need to know when to leave them alone. → I once had a request for sweet pickles. Sweet pickles are not common in Cabo. But I eventually found some. The man was very thankful. Funny thing is, he never even opened the jar. → You might think there’s pressure to make sure people are happy. But that’s what we do. It’s who we are.

Number of new rooms opening at The Towers at Pacifica next winter, all with ocean views and private terraces.

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WHAT GOES AROUND …

E M P T I E S TO A RT

1 Guests at Pueblo Bonito’s resorts drain bottles by the ton.

This is recycling like you’ve never seen it

2 Each bottle is cleaned, crushed and melted in the ovens.

3 Artisans dip long tubes into the molten glass and blow bubbles.

4 Israel shapes fish, vases and hearts that have become cultural symbols in Mexico.

5 Pueblo Bonito buys back the art pieces by the hundreds each month. It’s a perfect cycle.

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The smell of breakfast is in the air. And so is the sight of … what is that? Fruit? Red clusters are hanging from trees known as “little bulls” near the pool at Pacifica. But step closer. And don’t pick. The shiny delicacies are glass hearts. They do not come from China or from Tiffany & Co. They come from a hot little shop around the mountainside and down in the village of El Arenal. This is where we meet Israel Bautista working over the gentle roar of fires at his San Miguel Blown Glass Factory.

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How long does it take to make a heart?

About ten minutes. Then they cool for 14 hours. We have to be very careful. Hearts can break easily during the process.

How hot are the ovens? About 2,000 degrees Fahrenheit. I made them with my brother-in-law. There’s no school for this. You learn it by being around it. I was working in my great grandfather’s shop as a teenager..

Where’s the sand you use? We don’t use sand. We start with recycled bottles.

Where do those come from? We get all we need from the resorts at Pueblo Bonito. Last week they sent us about two tons of empties.

And then you make everything by hand. We can make about 150 pieces in a day, at most.

We made the centerpieces for LaFrida.

The restaurant at Sunset Beach? Yes. Those resorts gave me a chance when I was starting out. It’s been a good relationship for everyone.

One dollar of each nightly room rate goes to the Letty Coppell Foundation, which helps those in need living in Cabo San Lucas.

Real Escape A NEW LIFE STARTS HERE

Copala → Standalone homes (pictured below) and one- to three-bedroom condos with daily access to everything Coronado → A 22-acre community of hacienda-style four- and five-bedroom homes (spectacular views included)

THE FULL-TIME GETAWAY Everyday life or vacation life: It’s hard to tell the difference.

Actually, it’s called “the good life.”

Homeowners in the quiet Copala community at Quivira would know for sure if those three words accurately sum up living here.

Like Sylvia Tremblay, who, with her husband JP, recently relocated from Canada to a new condo in Copala. This is a glimpse of home: → Sunrise means a long walk for Sylvia and a five-mile run for JP, followed by a workout in the exclusive gym at Copala’s clubhouse.

Nonstop ocean views and morning glory have ways of naturally motivating people. → Daily tenets of life are sleep, eat and soak.

“We enjoy the pool daily,” says Sylvia. It’s an infinity pool for homeowners only, so it’s tailor-made for reading, sipping and dozing. → The Tremblays are retired, but to them this life stage is about living, really living. So they teach free English classes in the nearby community and distribute clothes through their church. “We are not bored!” says Sylvia. → Through “The Good Life” program at Copala, the couple can enjoy discounts on gourmet meals at Pueblo Bonito’s roster of restaurants (p. 2), world-class golf (p. 4) and spa treatments (p. 5). Of all the daily goodness here, including the peace, safety, and architecture, what specifically has made the move worthwhile? “The people,” says Sylvia. “They’re very cordial and warm.” Reflections of the place they now call home.

“When I moved here I was told there would only be 10 days a year with no sun. So I counted.

There were 11 days.”

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