Let's Travel Magazine - April/May 2015

ISSUE 35 APRIL-MAY 2015

ISSUE 35 APRIL - MAY 2015

Let’s Travel THE MAGAZINE FOR CORPORATE AND LEISURE TRAVELLERS

A mile high in Denver Riding on The Ghan

Monumental Milford Sound

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THE MAGAZINE FOR CORPORATE AND LEISURE TRAVELLERS

Koh Samui Revisited

Win a trip to Anaheim/Orange County

GENERAL | THAILAND

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*Airfares are for 2 (ex Auckland) but Hawaiian Airlines will discount August 2015. The winner will be drawn under police supervision

y, California flying Hawaiian Airlines!

Let’s Travel Magazine, along with Anaheim/OC Visitor and Convention Bureau and Hawaiian Airlines, are offering one lucky family of 4 the trip of a lifetime.

• • • • • • • • • • • •

2 x Return economy airfares flying Hawaiian Airlines* 6 nights accommodation for 4 at Anaheim’s Anabella Hotel* 2 nights accommodation for 4 at the Disneyland Resort 4 x Disneyland Resort 3 day Park Hopper passes 4 x passes to Knott’s Berry Farm 4 x passes to Universal Studios Hollywood 4 x passes to San Diego SeaWorld 4 x passes to Legoland/Sea Life Aquarium 4 x passes to The Medieval Times Dinner and Tournament 4 x 5 day Anaheim Resort Transportation passes 4 x Catalina Express passes (including transfers to and from their terminal with Karmel Shuttle) Airport Transfers thanks to Karmel Shuttle

total value in excess o NZ$10,0 f 00

How to Enter:

Go to our website www.letstravelmag.com and click on the registration page… answer a simple question… and you’re in the draw.

the other 2 tickets for the winning family of four. Accommodation only. Airport transfers are from LAX only. Competition open to New Zealanders only. The competition will run from 1st December 2014 through to the 31st and notified. There will be no correspondence entered in to. The prize must be taken between 1st October 2015 and 31 March 2016 – lock out periods will apply in some cases.

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7 DAYS ARE NOT ENOUGH

GENERAL | THAILAND

te Anaheim e Competition

Let’s Travel THE MAGAZINE FOR CORPORATE AND LEISURE TRAVELLERS

Editor at Large Gayle Dickson gayle@letstravelmag.com Mob: + 64 21 281 7699

EDITOR'S

Sales and Marketing: Gary Dickson gary@letstravelmag.com Mob: + 64 21 523 421

Live long and prosper!

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The crew at Let’s Travel Magazine travel with the confidence of being insured with QBE Insurance.

Let’s Travel THE MAGAZINE FOR CORPORATE AND LEISURE TRAVELLERS

A mile high in Denver Riding on The Ghan

ISSN Number 1176 – 4619 To enquire about permission to copy cuttings for internal management and information purposes please contact the PMCA, Ipayroll House, 93 Boulcott Street, Wellington, phone (04) 498 4488, email info@pmca.co.nz. Copyright – L T Publishing Limited. No part of this publication may be reproduced or copied in any form by any means (graphic, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, information retrieval systems or otherwise) without the express prior written permission of L T Publishing Limited.

Opinions expressed in this magazine are those of the authors and not necessarily those of Let’s Travel or L T Publishing Limited. The publisher accepts no responsibility whatsoever.

ISSUE 35 APRIL-MAY 2015

THE MAGAZINE FOR CORPORATE AND LEISURE TRAVELLERS

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Contributors: Shane Boocock, Gary Dickson, Gayle Dickson, Roderick Eime, Keith Flanagan, Carol Fordyce, Liz Light, Julie Miller, Paul Rush and Megan Singleton

ISSUE 35 APRIL - MAY 2015

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Design and Production: Element Design Limited Monique@element.co.nz Ph: + 64 9 636 0558

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t seems absurd to me that with the competitive market in good travel insurance these days that people still “forget” to ensure they are covered before they step on a plane. The destination is irrelevant – “things” can occur anywhere…and often do. Strikes, missing luggage, volcanic eruptions and ice storms – can happen at any time.

A friend of mine (many years ago) had a child that got very sick in the USA; so much so that if he didn’t have the travel insurance he had then he would have been stung with a US$ 30,000 bill. PLEASE – make sure you cover yourself before you go – and if you want some tips, read about it on page 62.

I’ve always had a bucket list. Places I would kill to go to! (Not literally of course). And I think everyone should have one; things to do before you push off your mortal coil and cease to be.

The Orient Express has always been one on my list and next month I get to “tick it off”…excellent. For now you can gather some ideas from the following pages and hopefully we can inspire you enough to make that step…to travel…and to love this one life.

Gary Dickson EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Koh Samui Revisited Monumental Milford Sound

Lets Travel – April May 2015 issue – changes to text No 1 Cover Change the top byline to – A mile high in - Denver – delete , Colorado Swap the 2nd and 3rd bylines over as 3rd one starts to blend with orange sunset

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Editor at Large: Shane Boocock shane@letstravelmag.com Mob: + 64 21 142 7040

from the editor

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Editor-In-Chief: Gary Dickson gary@letstravelmag.com Mob: + 64 21 523 421

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Let’s Travel: is published by L T Media Limited PO Box 55199, EastRidge, Auckland 1146. New Zealand Ph: + 64 9 521 4879 www.letstravelmag.com

Hyatt Regency Huntington Beach

A journey is like a marriage. The certain way to be wrong is to think you control it! John Steinbeck (1902 – 1968)

Effortlessly travel between unforgettable destinations with our collection of Great Train Journeys of the World.

Great Train Journeys Of The WOrld 2015

09 377 5420

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EUROPE | ASIA | NORTH & SOUTH AMERICA | AFRICA | INDIA | RUSSIA | AUSTRALIA

DENVER, COLORADO Gateway to the Rockies and the American West Experience one of America’s most vibrant and walkable cities, with spectacular views of the Rocky Mountains, outdoor café’s, farm-to-table cuisine, local breweries serving craft beer and plenty of shopping!

Explore Denver’s creative side at the Denver Art Museum with its famous American Indian art and Western art collections, shop at the iconic Rockmount Ranch Wear, see a concert under the stars at Red Rocks Amphitheatre or take a day trip to Rocky Mountain National Park.

Find out more at VISITDENVER.com

contents 18

NEW ZEALAND 18 Milford Sound 50 Chatham Islands 54 Wairarapa AUSTRALIA 22 Adelaide 46 AAT Kings 64 Hilton Darwin 70 Tasmania 106 The Ghan

CONTENTS

110 Victoria PACIFIC ISLANDS 34 Samoa 38 New Caledonia 78 Tahiti 100 Fiji 4

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U.S.A. 6 Denver 10 Denver Airport

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26 South Dakota 58 Las Vegas 66 New Orleans 74 Huntington Beach ASIA 82 India 90 Thailand

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BEYOND 14 Oman 30 Peru

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42 Switzerland 94 England OTHERS 62 Insurance Tips 86 P&O Cruises

REGULARS 97 Industry Traveller 98 Giveaways/New Products

Is it still a workout if you’re this relaxed?

Come to the place where a morning walk is taken along a white sand beach, and exercise is rolling a paddle through crystal clear waters. It’s not hard to see why Fijians are such happy people, and it’s not hard to be just as happy as they are.

Make a booking at www.fiji.travel

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Destination ➜ Colorado, U.S.A

Hop to it in Denver

U.S.A. | COLORADO

By Julie Miller

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Larimer Square

U.S.A. | COLORADO

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lright Denver, you win! When it comes to beer, we folk from the Southern Hemisphere have met our match.

Denverites know their beer. They are obsessed with the amber drop and drink it by the keg.

I have a friend there who belongs to not one, but two ‘ladies beer groups’ – Hopped Up Dames and Sisters of the Hop. They are aficionados, tasters, passionate about flavour, varietals and the craft of brewing. Little wonder the Colorado capital is known as the ‘Napa Valley of beer’ – in Denver, the beer flows like wine.

It all started with Coors, the single largest brewing facility in the world located at nearby Golden, Colorado.

But just as Australians rejected bland Fosters as their home brand, so Denverites longed to be associated more with quality rather than quantity. The craft beer revolution began quietly in the regional city of Boulder during the 1970’s. Today, there are more than 250 brewers in the state of Colorado, with 50 of those located within the Denver city limits.

The range and variety of beers available in the Mile High City is, quite simply, staggering – from well-known brands such as Fat Tire and 90 Shilling, to boutique seasonal barley brews developed by innovators at nano-breweries. The idea is to bar-hop, trying out each brew house’s specialty– a feat made simple for tourists with the Denver Beer Trail map, available online or at visitor centres and hotels.

There are 20 brew houses and their recommended drops listed on this passport-style guide, many within walking distance of Denver’s Downtown. Rock Bottom Brewery, for instance, is located on 16th Street Mall, Denver’s main pedestrian mall serviced by a free tram; while the Blue Moon Brewing Company, Breckenridge Brewery and Wynkoop (Colorado’s first and largest brewpub, opened in 1988) are all within a stone’s throw of Coors Field, home of the Colorado Rockies baseball team.

Across the footbridge in the trendy district of Lower Highlands (affectionately known as LoHi), the Ale House at Amato’s is another popular stop on the beer trail, its rooftop terrace boasting outdoor fireplaces as well as a fabulous panorama of the Denver skyline. While you’re exploring this neighbourhood, don’t miss the grungy My Brother’s Bar (corner of 15th and Platt), the oldest continually operating saloon in Denver and the former hangout of beat author Jack Kerouac.

U.S.A. | COLORADO

Steve Crecelius

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Red Rock Amphitheatre

Denver Skyline Evan Semon

Of course, with such stiff competition, each of the breweries featured on the beer trail has to offer more than just beverages. Good food served in adjoining restaurants ensure that stomachs are well-lined; the Great Divide Brewing Company has even struck a deal with Denver’s famous food truck vendors, with a rotating selection parked outside on weekends. Live music, cheese pairings and brewery tours are also part of the tasting experience.

For those who prefer the convenience of a tour rather than self-guiding, several options are available, including the door-to-door VIP treatment of the Denver Brews Cruise and a 1.5 mile (2.4 kilometre) guided walking safari with Denver Microbrew Tour, led by local beer aficionados.

There are also tours further afield, exploring the ‘Beer Triangle’ between Denver, Boulder and Fort Collins in the foothills of the Rocky Mountains.

But why stop at just drinking beer? In Denver, it’s also possible to soak away aches and pains in alcohol, with the Ritz-Carlton Hotel offering two spa “ex-beer-iences” incorporating the intrinsic benefits of hops and malt. Sip on three samplings of local beer as you soak your feet in the Hops ‘N’ Honey Ultimate Pedicure; or indulge in a malt exfoliation and an enriching mask made from stout with the Mile High Malt Scrub and Microbrew Massage. This rather bizarre treatment includes a scalp massage using the foam of the thick Yeti beer from the Great Divide Brewing Co., which does indeed leave you “smelling like a brewery!”

Denver’s infatuation with beer is at its peak in late September each year, when more than 49,000 beer lovers descend on the city during the Great American Beer Festival. Known as the “Superbowl of Beer”, this is the largest assemblage of American

SeshFest

Badlands

U.S.A. | COLORADO

facts: • There are 50 craft brewers in Denver • In 2016 the train from the airport to downtown will open • Denver has over 300 days of sunshine The Denver Beer Trail is available for download at ➜ www.visitdenver.com/denverbeertrail Julie Miller was assisted by Visit Denver.

The Great American Beer Festival will be held September 24-26 2015; the Denver Beer Fest will be held September 19-27 2015

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➜ www.visitdenver.com

Jensen Sutta

Falling Rock Beers

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brewers, with more than 3,500 beers from 710 breweries available for tasting.

This hugely popular event (in 2014, it sold out within 32 minutes of ticket sales opening!) also coincides with the Denver Beer Fest, a citywide celebration of all things beer.

Held over eight days, this festival features more than 300 beer-related events including tastings, tappings, masterbrewer lectures, themed dinners and breakfasts, brewer versus brewer competitions and street parties with flowing kegs of local brew.

For travellers visiting Colorado during the ski season, however, don’t despair – there’s still plenty of beer to quench your thirst! The Winter Brew Fest is held over two days in January at the Mile High Station in Downtown Denver, with unlimited tastings of more than 100 local craft beers, live music and lashings of hearty food – the perfect way to stay warm and acclimatise before hitting the slopes of the Rockies!

Destination ➜ Colorado, U.S.A

U.S.A. | COLORADO

DEN takes off

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W

hen Denver International Airport (DEN) opened on February 28th 1995, it brought a departure from the ordinary. From its spacious design and distinctive architecture, to its ability to grow and adapt with technology and travel habits, DEN influenced a global shift in airport design and expectations.

Today, as the airport celebrates its 20th anniversary, DEN has grown to become the fifth busiest airport in the United States and the 15th-busiest in the world. With a record-setting 53.4 million passengers in 2014, DEN is one of the busiest airline hubs in the world’s largest aviation market. The airport is the primary economic engine for the state of Colorado, generating more than $26 billion for the state annually and supporting nearly 190,000 jobs.

DEN has the third-largest U.S. domestic network and offers over 170 nonstop domestic and international destinations, with increasing air service to countries outside the United States. DEN serves about 20 international nonstop destinations, including London, Tokyo, Reykjavik

U.S.A. | COLORADO

and Panama City. These destinations have opened gateways from Denver to Europe, Asia, Central America, South America and beyond.

In November 2015, DEN will open the Westin Denver International Airport hotel, which consists of 519 rooms, a 24,000-square-foot conference space and a stunning outdoor public plaza that will be become Denver’s newest venue for arts, entertainment and relaxation. This hotel will offer a place where travellers can blur the lines between work and play, and can enjoy a world-class experience with a taste of true Colorado flair.

Beginning in the spring of 2016, a commuter rail line that begins at the base of the hotel will seamlessly connect the airport to the heart of the city and the region by taking passengers to Denver Union Station in just 35 minutes.

From there, passengers can access the region’s 122-mile FasTracks rail network. Together, the hotel and transit centre will complete the original vision for the airport and provide an enhanced experience for millions of travellers each year.

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U.S.A. | COLORADO

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DEN is also elevating the overall customer experience.

From new restaurants and shops to amenities such as electric vehicle charging stations, water bottle filling stations, additional electric outlets for laptop computers and digital way finding, DEN is putting the customer first. This renewed focus on the passenger experience is leading to improvements throughout the entire airport journey that are drawn from the latest in technology and design inspirations from around the world.

Even after 20 years, DEN remains the largest airport in the United States. With 53 square miles of land, DEN has the ability to double its current passenger capacity to more than 100 million passengers per year, by adding up to six new runways and expanding landside facilities. This growth is possible at incremental costs lower than other airports, and it still leaves approximately 9,000 acres that will never be needed for aviation. The excess land is an opportunity Denver calls DEN Real Estate and it represents one of the most compelling real estate opportunities anywhere in the world, offering unparallelled potential for commercial and transit-oriented development.

Construction is already underway on Peña Station, one of the first major transit-oriented developments on airport property. This development will be anchored by Panasonic Enterprise Solutions Company, which will bring its 100,000square-foot headquarters and assembly facility – and its innovative sustainable community development model – to DEN. But that’s just the beginning, as there remains the potential for up to 40 million square feet of additional commercial uses at DEN. DEN also remains at the forefront of aviation technology.

The airport was the nation’s first to fully implement the Federal Aviation Administration’s new NextGen arrival and departures procedures. It was also among the first airports

to use new sensor technology to track and manage aircraft movement on the ground. With a continued commitment to sustainability, Denver International Airport maintains one of the most robust and sophisticated aircraft de-icing fluid capture and recycling systems in the world. The airport is home to the longest commercial runway in North America, at 16,000 feet, and can accommodate any commercial aircraft flying today.

In two decades, DEN has become a gateway to the world. The potential for the future is boundless as the airport provides travellers with an experience that blends global sophistication with the beauty and spirit of the modern American West. DEN is becoming an international hub of commerce and innovation that establishes a new standard for customer service, domestic and international connectivity, and economic opportunity. ➜ www.flydenver.com

CHECK OUT WHAT’S NEW IN THE MODERN WEST.

No airport is like Denver International Airport, because no place is like the Colorado Region. We bring our relaxed way of life at every corner: warm welcomes, casual comforts, and an atmosphere that embraces innovation and independence.

With over 1500 daily flights from more than 170 cities, it’s easy for you to visit Denver.

FLYDENVER.COM

Destination ➜ Oman

Undeniably Unique

BEYOND | OMAN

Words and images by Gayle Dickson

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T

he Alila name is synonymous with a quality experience. From Bali and Jakarta to Jaipur and Goa, the locations are nothing short of exceptional, while the service and standards are of the highest.

Alila Jabal Akdhar, in the Al Hajar mountain range of Nizwa, Oman, is no different. Getting there is half the fun. It will take about 2.5 hours to cover the 180km journey from Muscat. About two-thirds of the way, you’ll reach a police checkpoint and it’s here that you’ll be waived on if you’re in a four-wheel-drive vehicle, or made to park up and await a bus or hotel shuttle. Be warned…from here on the road is steep and winding…but those views! Climbing that high, you’ll notice the drop in temperature, too. I left Muscat in a sweltering 42°C and by the time the village of Al Roos was in sight, it had plummeted to 18! So, yes, it can get

facts: ➜ www.alilahotels.com ➜ www.etihad.com ➜ www.sidetripofalifetime.com.au

BEYOND | OMAN

➜ www.tourismoman.co.nz

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rather chilly this high up, especially in the evenings – it’s not unheard of to experience snow! Designed with the environment in mind, the low-lying buildings meld into the landscape, allowing the sheer magnificence of the region to shine. Constructed in the main from local stone, there’s a delightful conflict between traditional Omani building techniques and the contemporary nature of the architecture that discreetly offers up all manner of modern conveniences.

The stony terrain on which the property so perfectly sits is dotted with aflaj water systems, again harking back to Omani traditions and representing the traditional means of irrigation. The soothing sound of trickling water is intoxicating, as are the reflections. Once you head indoors, the décor is cool, tranquil and neutral, allowing the sheen of copper artifacts and the glow of solid wood to reveal itself.

BEYOND | OMAN

The guest rooms are a sheer delight, ranging in size and configuration up to a staggering 361sqm. My one-bedroom suite offered to-die-for views over the surrounding gorges and cliffs from a very private balcony. The outdoor furniture ensured that that view was soaked up in absolute comfort.

Heading indoors, the suite was cool, tranquil and spacious.

Everything you could possibly want was to hand – luxurious linens, a heavenly bathroom, and both air conditioning and heating. The bath was a work of art, hewn from stone and standing centre stage in front of an enormous window.

If space is your thing, opt for one of the two villas – they offer two bedrooms (both ensuite), a living and dining room kitchenette and private pool…and the master bedroom even has its own steam room and Jacuzzi!

In Juniper Restaurant, where I lunched on my visit, the menu is a hedonistic blend of Arabic and international cuisine. There’s a delightful range of mezze platters, salads and soups, as well as pasta, meat and seafood dishes and delightful sweet offerings. The Rose Lounge serves up drinks and lighter bites. It’s worth noting that, although the property had applied for their liquor license, at the time we visited, it hadn’t yet been approved – thus, no alcoholic beverages were served.

The vast terrace, off the main building, is where you’ll find the infinity pool. Hop in the water, swim up to the edge and it really is as though you’re at the edge of the universe. You

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can see for miles…and the view is exceptional. If you really feel up to a little indoor exercise, there is a gym for your use.

Personally, I preferred to take advantage of the library!

At Spa Alila, I indulged in a sumptuous massage in one of the seven treatment rooms, expertly manipulated by an experienced therapist. What I loved is that guests can get the latest in nutrition and health advice – the complete package is on offer. I also loved their handmade juniper berry and rose soaps which are an indulgence in the guest rooms and available to purchase and take home.

This is mountain territory and history and culture abound.

It’s a place where you’ll breathe again, reclaiming sanity and serenity. It’s so peacefully quiet that you can literally hear a stone dropping in the gorge outside your window. This is nature at her most earthy. As you investigate the nearby heritage sights, you’ll be taken back in time. If you like hiking and trails, you’ll be in your element as you explore uninhabited villages, caves, canyons and rose terraces. If you prefer to have a guided tour, your personal Leisure Concierge can arrange it all. There are various tour options on offer, from taking in the plateaus to visiting the markets and forts.

At Alia Jabal Akhdar, it really is a case of “ask and you shall receive”!

Tourism Authority of Thailand, 137 Sunnybrae Road, Glenfield, Auckland. P: + 64 9 444 2298 W: www.tourismthailand.org

NEW ZEALAND | MILFORD SOUND

Destination ➜ Milford Sound, New Zealand

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Monumental Milford Sound Words and images by Paul Rush

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he giant cascade of water thunders down the sheer flanks of the curved trunk of The Elephant, one of the most distinctive peaks on the incredible skyline of Milford Sound.

The torrent of water swamps the foredeck as the catamaran glides directly under Stirling Falls. The great cascade plunges violently down a broad slot in a fortress-like wall. Squeals of delight and peals of laughter ring out from under the blanket of wind-blown spray that swirls in eddies over passengers huddling in the bow.

I strain my neck to see the fall springing clear of an escarpment at a giddy height.

Cruise commentator, Jessie, who is warm and dry on the bridge, broadcasts her belief that the pure, glacial water is reputed to ‘make you wake up tomorrow morning looking and feeling ten years younger’.

Fairy Falls across the sound has a similar magnetic attraction and the skipper inches the vessel up to the granite face of Mitre Peak, a 1,683m pyramidal monolith that is reminiscent of a bishop’s headwear. The photogenic peak is Milford’s A-list celebrity attraction.

Whalers and sealers named the Fairy Falls after indulging in a few rums. They undoubtedly saw rainbow patterns in the misty spray but were convinced they had discovered a fairy grotto. Today gossamer-thin strands of water are plunging over the lip of some fearful abyss 1,000m over our heads and dissipating into a fine mist over the bow.

This temporary fall is responding to a recent rainfall event. Milford experiences up to eight metres a year spread over 200 days. During torrential rain all the taps of nature are turned on and a thousand waterfalls plummet down the cliffs in a continuous curtain wall of water.

Our two-hour nature cruise left from Milford Wharf at 1.30pm. Within five minutes we confront the greatest waterfall of them all. Bowen Falls thunders down into a tiny bay enclosed by boulder banks and enveloped in spray. At 165m, it’s the highest permanent cascade in the sound.

The fiord has the appearance of a deep bay from the ocean

Monumental Milford Sound never fails to please visitors

NEW ZEALAND | MILFORD SOUND 19

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As our big catamaran approaches the base of Mitre Peak, the boat appears to shrink in size to a mere toy beneath the utterly breathtaking, sharply defined triangular summit. This 1,692m giant must be the finest granite sculpture in the land. It’s one of the world’s highest mountains that rise straight out of the sea.

Captain Stokes of the survey ship, Acheron, sailed into Milford in 1851 and named Mitre Peak because of its resemblance to a bishop’s head-dress. The sound was named thirty years earlier by Captain Grono after Milford Haven in Wales. Captain Cook could not bring his squarerigged sailing ship close in and judged the indented coast to be a small bay.

Jessie explains that Milford Sound is actually a fiord, carved out by a glacier and then flooded by the sea, whereas a sound is a flooded river valley. Maori legend has the sound laboriously chiselled out by a titan and called Piopiotahi (home of the rare native thrush).

We closely follow the shoreline below Mitre Peak, passing Copper Point, where a ten metre layer of tannin-rich fresh water can be discerned. This layer of discoloured river water sits above the saltwater, recreating the twilight of the depths in relatively shallow water. Scuba divers can view black coral species here that only occur below thirty metres in other locations.

Jessie directs our attention to the sheer cliffs above our heads. ‘Mosses and lichens grow on the cliff faces and provide a seed bed. As young native trees grow their roots intertwine to form a carpet of mutual support. When the trees grow taller it only takes heavy rain, snow or wind to send them crashing down in an avalanche. The resulting vertical scar on the rock face takes 150 years to recover.’

Out through the heads, we tuck into the delightful sweep of Anita Bay, where early Maori collected the priceless Bowenite greenstone for weapons of war and articles of adornment. A cluster of rock lobster holding pots festoon the quiet bay. ‘The live crustaceans are held here for up to two weeks,’ we are told. ‘Then the whole catch is unloaded at Milford Wharf, trucked to Te Anau and flown all around the world.’

Our vessel nudges the rocky shore for a close-up view of cute little critters called Fiordland crested penguins, that nest in the forest margin. The birds look positively aristocratic in their black and white formal attire, orange beak and yellow eyebrows, as they hop nonchalantly from boulder to boulder, with self-conscious glances at their human admirers.

NEW ZEALAND | MILFORD SOUND

A Stirling Falls shower is not for the faint hearted

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My biggest surprise on this cruise is the “ordinariness” of the coastline outside the entrance. The forested coastal range is relatively low-lying and unremarkable compared with the dramatic landscape of the sound. The Dale Point entrance gives no clue that a narrow passage turns in to the north and opens up to a 15km waterway resembling a vast lake sparkling in the sunlight.

Inside Dale Point is lonely Seal Rock, a very accessible haven for the New Zealand fur seals. Hunted to virtual extinction in the early 1800’s, the sleek mammals are making a big comeback, living the high life in the sun. They cleverly wait for high tide to scramble up on this square-top monolith where the steady wind off the ocean stops the wicked sand flies from biting their fur-less fins.

In the placid, mirror-smooth waters of Harrison Cove, local lobster fishermen have their refuelling base. The slab-sided glaciated walls of The Lion give way to a crescent of sandy beach backed by primeval beech forest of wild, savage beauty, flecked with crimson blooms of southern rata. Beyond are the glistening ice sheets of the Pembroke Peak and glacier.

I find myself taking numerous photos of this brilliant scene, trying to capture the pleasing juxtaposition of mountain peaks, glaciers and rainforest.

Stirling Falls cascades over the base of The Elephant’s trunk

I take away a lasting impression of the heroic scale of Milford Sound. It’s part of Nature’s grand design, the crowning glory of the 1.2 million hectare Fiordland National Park. As a Kiwi I feel an emotional attachment to this uniquely beautiful scene.

The author Rudyard Kipling described Milford Sound as ‘The eighth wonder of the world.’ With good reason, it’s our most visited sound in Fiordland and never disappoints, rain, hail or shine.

Harrison Cove and Pembroke Peak are scenic highlights

Photo: Gergoire Le Bacon

S o c i e t y i S l a n d S | t ua m o t u i S l a n d S | Ga m b i e r i S l a n d S | m a r q u e Sa S i S l a n d S | au S t r a l i S l a n d S

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Destination ➜ Adelaide, Australia

A Vine Ol’ Time Words and images by Shane Boocock

AUSTRALIA | ADELAIDE

Off Piste Tours

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he weekend I landed in Adelaide the temperature hovered between 39 and 41 degrees, which as you might expect is hard to differentiate between.

Years ago, on my very first visit to South Australia’s capital, someone said to me, “We have two seasons here, hot and very hot.” This was the very hot season.

I’d just stepped off the air-conditioned luxury of The Ghan train from Darwin in the Northern Territory, where it had been a pleasant 33 degrees, onto a concrete platform that seemed to be buckling under the heat of an Adelaide summer.

It was the first day of the Adelaide Fringe Festival and the city was gearing up for one of Australia’s largest celebration of the arts. With over 1,000 events it’s one of the largest, open access arts festivals in the world, tapping into South Australia’s vibrancy, creativity and energy, an event that has firmly cemented its position as one of the best “arty” capital cities in Australia.

Willunga Market

My own feast and festival weekend (of sorts) was booked with Off-Piste 4WD Tours to the Fleurieu Peninsula, about 45 minutes from my centrally located Adelaide hotel.

Having been on a number of food and wine tours in the

AUSTRALIA | ADELAIDE

D’Arenburg Vineyard

Ben’s Family Vineyard

Our biggest surprise of the day was to visit Ben’s mum on their small family property in McLaren Vale, which just happened to have a petite vineyard in the lower paddock.

Like some Italian family gathering, an oak table had been set out under an apple tree where lunch was served straight from the kitchen. From our coveted position we looked out onto the vines below us, as ‘gully winds’ kept us all cool in the 40 degree temperatures. The house is circa 1888 and directly beneath the kitchen floor was an original circular concrete water tank, now empty, affording a perfect place to cellar the wines.

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Off Piste Tours

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region I wanted to try something different and this appealed, as part of the time (when you’re not eating or drinking) would be off-road, travelling to hard-to-reach, seldom visited and generally unknown landscapes that sit in between Adelaide and the internationally acclaimed Kangaroo Island.

On board were David and Leslie from Worcester in the UK, Leonie from Queensland who’d been stationed all over the world during her time in the Diplomatic Corps, and a local couple from Adelaide, Ian and Debbie who had won a trip on Ben Neville’s tour when their name was pulled out of a hat during a local function. Ben was a talkative 37-year-old had started his own tour company just over two years ago with a picnic hamper full of local knowledge and trade industry contacts.

Our first stop after shimmying our way through local suburbs and weekend traffic was Onkaparinga Gorge National Park. Having opened a locked gate Ben drove his Toyota 4WD a short way into the park where we stopped for some cheese tasting and a glass of wine by a billabong!

Ben had earlier called into the Willunga Outdoor Farmer’s Market where, as we strolled amongst locals on a Saturday morning, he bought fresh bread and a few tasty local cheeses.

Next it was on to the well-known McLaren Vale winery, the D’Arenburg Vineyard, which was established in 1912, for a sample of their famous range of wines – over 60 varieties in fact! Its renowned wines have a number of whimsical names such as a 2010 pinot noir named The Feral Fox, a 2013 sauvignon blanc called The Broken Fishplate, a 2013 chardonnay titled The Lucky Lizard, a 2010 shiraz viognier known as The Laughing Magpie, and when the vintners found their first crop of roussanne from the 2000 vintage was covered in a sea of tiny “Money Spiders” (Erigoninae), it was duly christened as such.

Next we ventured into The Salopian Inn where all the kitchen staff, it turned out, are female. “Men just can’t hack it in there,” said the bartender when I asked why. With 30 minutes up our sleeve, we propped up the bar and tasted an Adelaide Hills Heirloom pinot noir.

AUSTRALIA | THAILAND

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After our full-on lunchtime feast there was more exploring to undertake as Ben headed the Toyota along an ocean road before dropping onto stunning Silver Sands Beach, where hundreds of day-trippers had already staked out tents and shade canopies.

Our last stop of the day was to try some cleansing ales at the Goodieson Brewery in McLaren Vale where we sampled a range of incredible handcrafted beers including a super tasty Pilsner and a German style Maibock (only available seasonally). On our visit, expert brewer, Jeff Goodieson was able to explain how they produce such quality beer in their award winning, South Aussie brewery – a very yeasty way to end the day.

On Saturday night and In keeping with the weekend’s theme of food and wine I headed for Sean’s Kitchen, which is what the owner and chef refers to as a high-end bistro.

It’s located in the historic train station building that also houses the Adelaide Casino. The restaurant is the latest venture of Sean Connolly who also operates the hugely successful New York style restaurant and oyster bar, The Morrison, in the heart of Sydney.

However, Sean is best known in New Zealand for opening the multi-million dollar restaurant The Grill by Sean Connolly at Sky City in 2011. This venture was made into a six-part documentary called Under The Grill, which documented Sean’s journey, armed with a four million dollar budget and a 100-day deadline, to create a world-class restaurant from scratch.

Sean’s focus in Adelaide is on simple and honest food, paired with an extensive wine and cocktail menu in a luxury setting. With two private dining rooms, a chef’s table and a museum of ham, the restaurant reflects the dynamic sophistication of this food-oriented city. However, the New York style black and white tiled interior has a very high curved ceiling, and with a Saturday night crowd in full swing the main dining area inside can be quite noisy.

While Adelaide might be a few thousand miles from his birthplace in West Yorkshire, the principals he learned in his grandmother’s kitchen still guide and influence his food today: generosity, imagination and a healthy respect for excellent produce.

I started dinner with an appetising lobster roll with lemon & crème fraîche, followed by Sean’s Caesar salad. It was hard to pass up the whole lobster special, but I did, and opted for a delicious Berkshire pork hock with lentils, king crab, bush apples and a side order of asparagus, coated with a chunky hollandaise sauce – a dish fit for an English king.

In Sean’s Kitchen I found a diverse menu from small ‘Finger & Folk’ dishes to ‘Salads & Slaws.’ If it’s seafood you desire try a selection from the ‘Raw & Ocean’ Shelf where Oscietra caviar is priced at A$400 per 50 grams – some delicacies do come at a price. If there are two or three in your group size up the ‘Small Gatherings’ option or just home-in on Sean’s ‘Plated Dishes’ for your main meal. Whatever you decided on, this is a restaurant that really delivers.

So the next time you’re in South Australia with a group of like-minded people, try some food and wine experiences with a twist from Sean’s Kitchen and an amazing ‘off-thebeaten track’ food and wine tour through some McLaren Vale vineyards and breweries on the beautiful Fleurieu Peninsula.

Sean’s Kitchen

Onkaparinga Gorge

facts: Create your perfect South Australia holiday wish list at ➜ www.southaustralia.co.nz

Air New Zealand flies non-stop from Auckland to Adelaide ➜ www.airnewzealand.co.nz

Off-Piste 4WD Tours, Adelaide (Expect a flexible itinerary) P: +61 423 725 409 ➜ www.offpistetours.com.au

D’Arenburg Vineyard P: +61 8 8329 4888 ➜ www.darenberg.com.au

The Salopian Inn P: +61 8 8323 8769 ➜ www.salopian.com.au

Goodieson Brewery P: +61 409 676 542 ➜ www.goodiesonbrewery.com.au

Sean’s Kitchen, Adelaide P: +61 8 8218 4244 ➜ www.seanskitchen.com.au

Adelaide Fringe Festival ➜ www.adelaidefringe.com.au

Crowne Plaza Hotel Adelaide T: +61 8 8206 8888 ➜ www.crowneplazaadelaide.com.au

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Destination ➜ South Dakota, U.S.A

U.S.A. | SOUTH DAKOTA

Where the Real America is

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A

s you travel throughout South Dakota, you’ll find diverse landscapes that will make you stop and stare, National Landmarks, nostalgic small-town cafes where you can mingle with locals and a genuine hospitality wherever you go. For these reasons, and many others, South Dakota is the Land of Great Faces and Great Places.

America’s Shrine of Democracy, Mount Rushmore National Memorial, is one of the must-see national parks of the area. The memorial was completed in 1941 after 14 years of sculpting. It cost a mere $1 million, though now it is deemed priceless. Upon entrance to the memorial, visitors will be greeted by the Avenue of Flags, which features the 56 flags of the U.S. states and territories, followed by the Grandview Terrace and Presidential Trail. There is also a large gift shop as well as dining areas on site. Admission to the park is free, though there is a fee for parking.

Missouri River

Mt. Rushmore

U.S.A. | SOUTH DAKOTA 27

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Powwow

Not far from this National treasure is another piece of South Dakota’s landscape. Badlands National Park is nestled on 144,000 acres of land in southwest South Dakota, home to some of the most ruggedly beautiful landscapes in the world.

As the name suggests, the land has been scarred and bruised by thousands of years of erosion, yet this erosion is what has created some very interesting and unique formations, spires, buttes, gorges and cuts.

And though the land is not entirely hospitable, visitors will find several species of wildlife, such as deer, pronghorn, mountain goats and bison. A section of the park also contains protected grasslands and towns where the only resident is the prairie dog.

Badlands National Park is also unique for what can be found beneath the surface. Archeologists and paleontologists have been uncovering fossils in Badlands National Park for decades, and what they’ve found are some of the largest and richest beds of Oligocene epoch fossils in the world.

Custer State Park in the beautiful Black Hills of western South Dakota is full of lush forests, quiet and serene meadows, and majestic mountains. This 71,000-acre state park is also home to one of the world’s largest publicly owned bison herds…nearly 1,300 strong.

Each fall, the ground rumbles and the dust flies as cowboys, cowgirls and park crews saddle up to bring in the thundering herd. The annual Custer State Park Roundup, held on Friday the September 25th 2015 will mark the 50th anniversary.

One thing many visitors might not know before visiting South Dakota is that two of the world’s longest cave systems call the Black Hills home.

U.S.A. | SOUTH DAKOTA

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Jewel Cave National Monument, which takes its name from the glittering calcite crystals that line the walls, stretches 175 miles which makes it the world’s third-longest cave system. Located just an hour south is Wind Cave National Park. The park has a total of 28,295 acres of above ground terrain and 123 miles of explored cave passages, making it one of the top 10 longest caves in the world.

The natural divider of South Dakota, the Missouri River, evenly separates western and eastern South Dakota. This great divider also offers majestic views for camping, fantastic water sport opportunities, and world class fishing.

The Missouri National Recreational River is where imagination meets reality. Two free flowing stretches of the Missouri make up the National Park. Relive the past by making an exploration of the wild, untamed and mighty river that continues to flow as nature intended.

A colourful part of South Dakota’s heritage stems from the rush for gold, which was widely discovered around 1876 in the Deadwood Gulch area. Deadwood soon became known as an untamed town with an anything-goes attitude. It has endured more than one fire, but residents keep coming back, showing their determination and love for the area.

In 1989, Deadwood once again legalised low-stakes gambling, which brought the town closer to its original roots. The entire city is a National Historic Landmark, which gives visitors a better sense of what Deadwood looked like when its legendary characters and hopeful miners roamed the streets and played poker in the city’s saloons.

Deadwood

Missouri River

Badlands

➜ www.travelsouthdakota.com ➜ www.rmi-realamerica.com

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Crazy Horse Face

Once completed, Crazy Horse Memorial, a memorial to the Lakota Leader, Crazy Horse, and to all North American Indians, will be the largest mountain carving in the world. In 1939 Chief Henry Standing Bear wrote to sculptor Korczak Ziolkowski saying, “My fellow chiefs and I would like the white man to know the red man has great heroes, too.”

Ziolkowski arrived in the Black Hills in May of 1947.

He worked on the mountain until his death on October 20, 1982. His family continues the dream and work progresses on the world’s largest mountain sculpture.

When finished, Crazy Horse will stand 641 feet long and 563 feet high.

When Korczak accepted the invitation of Native Americans to carve a mountain memorial to their culture, he determined that it would be a humanitarian project.

He wanted Crazy Horse to be much more than “just” a colossal Mountain Carving. He directed that the Memorial would tell present and future generations the story of Native Americans by displaying outstanding examples of Indian culture and heritage – both of yesterday and today.

Today the Crazy Horse Memorial Museum has grown into a unique museum that allows its visitors a view of past and present native culture. Tribal members and others contribute Native American art and artifacts to enhance the collection and make it more comprehensive and representative of all North American tribes.

The largest motorcycle rally in the world is held in Sturgis. This year marks the 75th anniversary of the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally, August 3-9, 2015 and expectations are for a very large attendance, predicted to be over 1 million people.

Wind Cave

Destination ➜ Peru

Where Mortals Feared to Tread

BEYOND | PERU

Words and images by Shane Boocock

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Machu Picchu

O

llantaytambo, in the Sacred Valley of the Incas, is one of those Peruvian towns you immediately recognise as having good vibes. It happened as our group crossed the busy, colourful square and single-lane rickety bridge to find our accommodation.

However, as much as the town intrigued me, I was by now seriously troubled with stomach cramps and diarrhea that had started as we departed Cusco, leaving me weak and with a hot and cold fever. In the middle of the afternoon I went to bed and stayed there until the next day – a full 17 hours.

Earlier our group had stopped in the town of Shio on the way to Ollantaytambo, where we were invited into the courtyard of a local house where all the women weave and dye llama and sheep wool. The demonstration was presented by one of two teenage sisters whose English was extremely good; she even cracked a few (in)appropriate

sheep jokes. As she explained, all the traditional designs and techniques are passed down from mother to daughter – and if you’re wondering – they were all of a similar short stature and looked alike. Traditions are strong, and like all before them, their patterns are committed to memory, with dyes sourced from nothing but plants, leaves, seeds, cactus beetles and black corn.

In Ollantaytambo, in the early light of a Peruvian morning I slipped out of the Hotel Tika Wasi alone, still feeling delicate and with slight stomach cramps, and into a side entrance of the town’s nearby Inca ruins. It was almost deserted as I wandered alone through pre-Inca and Inca ruins dating back more than 500 years. As the Inca Empire expanded it became normal for the Incas to build adjacent to or on the foundations of pre-Inca buildings.

After breakfast our assembled group headed off on a steep, rubble strewn trail hiking up to the roofless

Top 6 Tips for Visiting Machu Picchu: 1. For the best interpretation of the Lost City and all it’s intricacies hire a guide and don’t try and do it alone with a guidebook, as it’s far better to have some knowledgeable Peruvian who has a greater insight into what was happening here 500 years ago.

2. If you want to see the sunrise over Machu Picchu, leave Agues Caliente on the earliest bus possible, they start departing about 5:00 am. For a great place to see the sunrise hike up to the Sun Gate.

4. Two ‘must do’ side trips are hiking to the Sun Gate early on and at some stage take the Inca Trail path at the rear of Machu Picchu to the Inca Bridge.

This is a dead-end trail and you can’t cross the bridge but it’s worth the effort to see this amazing feat of engineering.

Footbridge Path

Kancha Interior

5. First visit the bathrooms at the entrance near the ticket office, as there are no facilities once you enter the city. Carry plenty of water and also leave your walking sticks behind - you really shouldn’t need them for a half day of sightseeing and it helps when taking photos to have a hand free.

6. If you arrive and depart by train be sure you don’t try and do Machu Picchu in one day, so spend a night in a hotel in Agues Caliente. The hot springs are worth soaking in and there is also a huge range of restaurants and tourist stalls to mix and mingle in.

Author at Machu Picchu

Inca Ruins

Inca Bridge

buildings that were resting in shadows high above town.

By the time we had climbed to the ruins, the sun had sneaked into the storage facilities, built to hold grain, but affording sensational views across the valley to the corresponding Inca terraces and buildings that we would later explore.

Back in Ollantaytambo we visited a ‘Kancha’, a private enclosure with three single room dwellings on three sides with a wall on the last side, dwellings estimated to have been built in the mid 1500’s. Inside, the adobe walls were blackened by soot from five centuries of internal fires. In one corner an adobe wood-fired stove held three large blackened pans. The uneven adobe walls were decorated with antiquities, including farm implements, dead animals, and three human skulls, ancestors of the occupants. At the far end of the building the women of the house sat watching the Football World Cup on a colour television.

It was a spooky, haunting home which if the walls could have spoken, would have had one huge tale to tell about pre-Inca people who lived here, Inca occupation and the Conquistadors who would have walked on the dried, black dirt-encrusted floors.

Our tour of the ruins that we had looked across at from the storage buildings started mid-morning. Ollantaytambo was a strategic location in the Sacred Valley of the Incas.

BEYOND | PERU

3. Another good reason to depart early is to avoid the crowds, which start filling the Lost City from 8:00 am onwards. By lunchtime there will be thousands of people vying for the best photographic spots, so plan your morning visit well and exit by midday at the entrance where you’ll find a good café/restaurant.

Buses in the afternoon inevitably have long waiting lines, so be prepared.

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Aguas Calientes

BEYOND | PERU

All the Inca buildings; temples, terraces, rooms and sacred sites were constructed but the uppermost temple buildings were never finished as the settlement was invaded by the Conquistadors. Still, it is one impressive location that the Conquistadors deemed a place to both conquer, deface and partially destroy in order to suppress the Incas earthly and spiritual beliefs in order to instill Christianity.

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Machu Picchu: Much further along from the Sacred Valley of the Incas, and way above the Unubamba River lies the lost Inca city of Machu Picchu. To get there is either a four-day hike over the mountains on the Inca Trail or a train journey from Ollantaytambo to Agues Calientes.

For most visitors to Machu Picchu, an early start is important before the crowds invade this fabled city. There are only two ways to reach the entrance from the nearest town of Aguas Calientes; walking from the deep valley floor for about two hours uphill or by catching a scheduled shuttle bus.

Towering stone cliffs, dense cloud forest, and two rushing rivers enclose this unglamourous town. With droves of tourists on a one-time visit, means service can be hap-hazard in a village that still looks like the buildings are unfinished. My best advice is to go with minimal expectations.

Arriving at the entrance gate along with hoards of other tourists jostling to get into the ‘Lost City’, was a slight anti-climax for me. We had been lucky and first viewed the iconic site a day earlier, as we entered the Sun Gate as part of a four-day Inca Trail group of hiking explorers rather than as gawking tourists, which was now the case.

To put it in perspective, there are approximately 4,000 people A DAY who visit Hiram Bingham’s hidden Inca utopia, 95 percent of whom arrive by train, so it makes for one crowded, long lost city, especially as you should consider it only ever held 300 - 500 people in it’s short history. Born in Hawaii in 1875, the Yale educated Bingham would ultimately have a long and colourful career after discovering Machu Picchu. At the start of his South American odysseys, he famously wrote his clarion call to further exploration: Those snow-capped peaks in an unknown and unexplored part of Peru fascinate me greatly. They tempted me to go and see what lay beyond. In the ever famous words of Rudyard Kipling there was, ‘Something hidden! Go and find it! Go and look beyond the ranges – Something lost behind the ranges. Lost and waiting for you. Go!’ Machu Picchu has approximately 100 dwellings each holding about five people, yet Machu (meaning old) Picchu (meaning mountain) was only built for the Inca nobility. Historian Mariana Mould de Pease maintains that Machu Picchu was an llacta, an Andean town constructed

by Pachacutec, the ninth Inca, in the 15th century as a retreat where panaca, the royal family (all the relatives and descendants of the Inca) would relax and entertain. Hiram Bingham, who discovered it in 1911, rightly or wrongly thought and named it a Sacred Place. A detailed study of mid-16th century documents reveals that Machu Picchu was most likely occupied between 1438 and 1470, so luckily for us the Spanish Conquistadores never found the ‘Lost City’.

A Peruvian journalist, Maria Luisa del Rio best summed up the Lost City in her book, Cusco Bizarro: “The history of the Incas impresses and inspires because of it’s sheer grandeur. Machu Picchu is the culmination of that experience.

I suppose the energy comes from the sun, a sun so strong that the Incas thought of it as a god, a sun that makes you see the most intense colours and makes your life happier.”

With that in mind hike to the Sun Gate early to avoid crowds and before the sun gets too high over the horizon.

Machu Picchu is where the Inca nobility lived and most mere mortals feared to tread. Today mere mortals, like myself, no longer fear to tread but walk thoughtfully through the 500-year-old stone built city gates, across sacred paths, up and down hand-hewn steps and within temples and courtyards, giving pause for thought to the giant structural layout and engineering achievement. There is also a dead-end path to the rear of the main site that is worth seeing as it takes you to an ancient Inca bridge where it nowadays...dead-ends. It was once a trail that would have allowed the Incas to possibly escape should they have been invaded. Wandering through the ruins allowed me to reflect on the culture and people that once resided here and on the sheer scale and beauty of this location in the Peruvian Andes.

Hiram Bingham never would have envisaged that 4,000 people a day would traverse across his monumental discovery, but as sometimes happens we get to look back into the past. Machu Picchu is indeed an inspiring place, one that will linger in the thoughts of every traveller who gets to cast a geographic eye over it, a thriving Inca stronghold that eventually became a ‘Lost City’ of the future.

Ollantaytambo Local

facts: Shane Boocock travelled to the Sacred Valley of the Incas and Machu Picchu courtesy of World Expeditions. For more information about their, ‘Best of Peru and Bolivia’ and other worldwide tour programs visit: ➜ www.worldexpeditions.co.nz Lan Chile operates direct daily flights to Santiago and onward connecting flights to Peru. ➜ www.lan.com

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Destination ➜ Samoa

Spa Perfection PACIFIC ISLANDS | SAMOA

By Gayle Dickson

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Coco Beach Spa

Firstly, let me just say that, in my opinion, there’s no such thing as a bad spa treatment. Sometimes the pressure may be a little too firm or too soft…but an hour or so of manipulation is time well spent. Secondly, on my recent round of Samoan spa offerings, I didn’t encounter anything that I didn’t like. They were all slightly different, and I loved that! My only gripe was that I didn’t have time to investigate them all – now that would be a holiday worth pure gold! Here’s a wee roundup on what’s on offer.

- Coconuts Beach Club, Resort & Spa Coco Beach Spa Sitting behind a high lava rock wall within the resort grounds, the spa is accessed through a thatched portico entrance of grand proportions. The private treatment rooms are cool and serene and there’s also a mini pool where guests are invited to relax. The treatments are performed using natural ingredients derived from the land and the sea, and include full body or hot rock massages using handpicked basalt, as well as hand and feet rituals. There’s even a specialised men’s pedicure! Enjoy a Samoan fofo massage, salt scrub, sea flora facial…or indulge completely in the 3-hour Lazy Day package! They also offer waxing services. ➜ www.cbcsamoa.com

Coco Beach Spa

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Le Lagoto Sunset Day Spa Perfectly situated away from the hustle and bustle of the resort buildings, you can hear the sound of the sea as you relax. The spa is compact and bookings are essential, especially since they also cater to guests from other properties! At the time of my visit, guests were offered a complimentary 15-minute introductory massage. The therapist is adept at deep tissue or relaxation massage, and offers a range of facials, body polishes and wraps.

Manicures, pedis and footbaths are a delightful treat, as was the French polish. Wax treatments are also available. ➜ www.lelagoto.ws

PACIFIC ISLANDS | SAMOA

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Sunset Day Spa

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Saletoga Sands Resort & Spa Saletoga Spa As with most Samoan spas, you’ll be able to indulge in everything from a simple back or full body massage, a range of facials, sunburn treatments (it happens all too often!) as well as manis and pedis. Yes, waxing treatments are on offer, as are a range of hair treatments – from a simple wash and condition to braiding and even bridal updo’s. The Wedding Package is my choice – three hours of head to toe pampering that includes hair, facial, makeup and nail polish. At the time of going to print, guests were being offered two-foot rituals as part of their booking. ➜ www.saletogasands.ws

PACIFIC ISLANDS | SAMOA

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Sheraton Samoa Aggie Grey’s Resort Manaia Polynesian Spa Just a short stroll from the main resort buildings, the spa is tucked away in a world of its own. The open-air reception is where you’ll be greeted before being led along one of the wooden walkways to one of the private massage bungalows.

Made from tropical woods and lava rock, these bungalows lie amidst papaya, coconut, banana and nonu trees. On offer are a range of facials, traditional massages, body treatments, scrubs and wraps. Enjoy after-sun treatments, a Polynesian foot treatment, or indulge with a hot rock massage. ➜ www.sheratonsamoaaggiegreysresort.com

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Sinalei Reef Resort Spa Tui-I-Lagi A serene and totally enchanting location, tucked at the bottom of a gentle slope, away from the main resort buildings. The treatment rooms are so well positioned that no air conditioning was necessary – the louvred windows allowed the sea breeze to fan my skin while I dozed to the rhythmic sounds of the waves crashing on the rocks below while the therapist wove her magic. Romantics will

Spa Tui-I-Lagi

Spa Tui-I-Lagi

love the candlelit massage indulged in over a bottle of wine. What could be better than a tandem massage with four hands working your body at the same time? Mind you, I did consider the Barefoot Samoan, too – but I felt like I needed a relaxing rather than firm treatment that day. From deep massage and hot stone therapy, to delightful facials, refreshing scrubs and invigorating polishes, you’re assured of a quality treatment in sublime surroundings. ➜ www.sinalei.com

Mask optional. Fun inevitable.

In New Orleans, it’s Fat Tuesday every day of the week. Perhaps it’s because the city is the birthplace of jazz and the cocktail. There’s something to amuse and delight around every cobblestoned corner, especially the tax-free shopping savings.

Visit www.neworleansinfo.com and start planning your trip today.

PACIFIC ISLANDS | NEW CALEDONIA

Destination ➜ New Caledonia

A slice of France in the Pacific

By Megan Singleton

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Anse Vata Beach

D

eux pain au chocolat, s’il vous plait,” I said to the girl poised with tongs and a paper bag behind the counter at the local boulangerie. I tried to create just enough sing-song to sound French and an air of confidence to hide my fear.

I’d been practicing my speech for the two-block walk from my hotel. The bakery wasn’t hard to find. It was where all the cars were pulling in and out and people were rushing like ants to a jam jar. I stepped into a duvet of fragrance: warm croissants and baguettes permeated the air. No wonder this is a morning magnet, I thought as I twirled in circles trying to decide if my rehearsed request was indeed what I wanted.

It was and apparently practice makes perfect because she immediately asked me a question in French and then smiled knowingly at my bewildered face. I’d been sprung.

Aquarium

Tjibaou Cultural Centre

temperatures are only in the early 20’s, so hardly swimming weather (well for me, anyway).

Food and Wine Noumea is a modern city. French shops stand alongside local suppliers. Chocolatiers handcraft their wares and bottle stores sell French wine. Expect to snap up some delicious reds from about $12 to any price you like.

Le Marche at Port Moselle is open from 5am - 11.30am every day except Monday. This is where I like to come on my first day and buy fresh tuna unloaded from the boats that moor alongside to offload their nightly catch.

PACIFIC ISLANDS | NEW CALEDONIA

She asked again in English if I’d like the small or large ones.

Pretty much everyone speaks English in Noumea, but at least I gave it a go!

Large please (of course), I replied and scurried back with my two warm chocolate croissants to the pot of coffee in my room. That’s how you start your day in New Caledonia, with crisp buttery pastries and a fresh brew.

This little slice of France in the South Pacific offers a very different holiday than our neighbouring islands. It’s not your typical fly-and-flop destination. There’s a lot to see and do here and lying on the beach all day is not really what visitors to Noumea bask in. Besides, in winter the

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Le Roof

PACIFIC ISLANDS | NEW CALEDONIA

You’ll find all sorts of seafood here at very reasonable prices. In the surrounding hexagonal buildings are fruit, vegetables and flowers and lots of little stalls selling handcrafts, hats and sarongs.

For gooey French cheeses, pate and charcuterie, head to Geant. There are several located around Noumea, but if you’re taking a taxi, ask to go to the big one. The selection is enormous and this will happily tide you over for many happy hours or lunches. You’ll also find a few New Zealand brands and lots of exciting French and local food for a fully self-catering holiday.

But who wants to cook when they’re away, right? The options are endless when it comes to dining out. From pizza and burgers to fine dining and everything in between. Of course, you are (almost) in France, so treating yourselves to a special dinner from a top chef is my recommendation at least once. Le Roof does a fabulous four-course degustation in an overwater restaurant at the far end of Anse Vata Beach for about $100.

Where to stay It’s common for hotels to offer rooms with kitchens. This is a great advantage for families, or stocking your fridge with the cheeses, pates and fish you bought during the day.

Anse Vata Beach is where most of the hotels are located. It has a road running between it and the hotels, bars and restaurants and is lined with petanque strips where locals gather to play and chew the fat. This is a fun photo op and they’ll probably invite you to join them.

Further along is Baie des Citrons (Bay of Lemons), which is a popular spot for restaurants, bars and nightlife.

Head here for your dinner choices.

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What to do Be aware that many attractions are closed on Sundays and Mondays. If you want to book a tour of the south, for example, to see the rich red nickel and copper infused soil, spot the rare Kagu bird and go for a hike, you’re best to arrange that from home before you go.

Anse Vata Promenade

facts: Flight time to New Caledonia is less than 3 hours and the international airline, Aircalin, will take you there in style on their modern Airbus A320. There are 5 flights a week – Monday, Tuesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday – and flights are daytime flights in both directions. Aircalin is a full service airline and imparts true French Pacific flare with the warmest of Pacific welcomes the moment you step aboard. ➜ www.aircalin.com

➜ www.visitnewcaledonia.com

PACIFIC ISLANDS | NEW CALEDONIA

It’s surprisingly hard to book tours once you’re there! On saying that, depending on where you stay, your concierge should be able to help.

The Aquarium des Lagons is small but well worth visiting and easily located just along Anse Vata Beach. If you’d like to understand the culture and history of the place, a visit to the architecturally beautiful Tjibaou Cultural Center will be right up your alley.

Duck Island (Ile aux Canard) is about ten minutes by water taxi from Anse Vata and is a cute little sandy island with loungers and a café (or take your own picnic). The snorkelling out here is very good and if you’re a sporty spice, you might even join the kite surfers.

People rent catamarans from the shoreline and kite surfers blow along the waves right on Anse Vata beach. Rent a private boat and go out for a day diving or snorkelling and a trip out to Amédéé Island and Lighthouse provides another white sandy beach for water babies.

There are four golf courses fairly close, a New Zealand WWII cemetery located about two hours north in Bourail, shopping – especially the French book shop and museums to visit.

New Caledonia really provides the best of both worlds when it comes to a holiday that is far enough removed from home, but close enough to not suffer any jet lag.

And, as they say over there, voila!

BE SPOILT ON THE WAY TO UNSPOILT with Aircalin flights to New Caledonia, where French sophistication meets South Pacific relaxation.

• Full service, every flight • 5 flights per week • Under 3 hours from Auckland

• Non-stop flights • Year round fare from $749* • Exclusive business class

www.aircalin.com or (09) 977 2238 *Terms and conditions apply. Price subject to change due to currency fluctuation.

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Destination ➜ Switzerland

Nine Great Reasons to Visit Lucerne BEYOND | SWITZERLAND

Words and images by Shane Boocock

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The Wooden Bridge

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veryone usually identifies Switzerland with their bitter-sweet chocolates, exclusive watches, functional Swiss army knifes, the Swiss Alps and of course the legend of William Tell. Yet each city in Switzerland has it’s own heritage and distinctive feel to it, albeit many of these cities sit beside a stunning alpine lake (there are over 7,000 lakes bigger than 500m²) or at the foot of an alpine mountain…in some cases both.

The city of Luzern certainly seems to have a sprinkling of all things Swiss, so here are some of the best reasons to visit.

Lucerne is the capital of the Canton of Lucerne with a population of about 76,200 people. It is the most populous city in Central Switzerland, due to its location on the shore of Lake Lucerne (der Vierwaldstättersee), and within sight of Mount Pilatus and Riga in the Swiss Alps. It has long been a destination for tourists, as it has everything you could wish for in a city; a picturesque lakeside setting against an impressive mountain backdrop with architectural gems as well as centuries-old sites, such as the most-photographed subject in Switzerland, the Chapel Bridge – (Kapellbrücke), a wooden bridge first erected in the 14th century, and of course top-quality museums, theatres and festivals.

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- Lake Excursions: Lake Lucerne – the scenic beauty of the lake can be discovered on the many different cruises offered by paddlewheel steamers or motorised vessels. Some visitors get away from any kind of midday rush by taking a tranquil lunch cruise. This is a perfect way to relax amidst the natural splendour of the Alps while enjoying a refined meal such as a sumptuous salad buffet before the main course is served to you. The menu highlights are seasonal variations of meat, fish or vegetarian specialties. Otherwise just book a scheduled two-hour boat trip with pier-to-pier lakeside stops using your Swiss Pass as a ticket.

Lake Lucerne

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- Wandering Old Town: Lucerne is a city of town squares and churches.

Historical, fresco painted buildings border the old city including houses lining the picturesque town squares on the right bank of the Reuss River as they do the ‘Weinmarkt’ square in the car-free old town.

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Covered Bridges: Since the city straddles the Reuss River, where it drains the lake, it has a number of bridges. The most famous is the Chapel Bridge, a 204 m (669 foot) long wooden covered bridge originally built in 1333, the oldest covered bridge in Europe, although much of it had to be replaced after a fire on August 18, 1993…allegedly caused by a discarded cigarette. Part way across, the bridge runs by the octagonal Water Tower (Wasserturm), a fortification from the 13th century. Inside the bridge are a series of paintings from the 17th century depicting events from Lucerne’s history.

Chapel Bridge with its tower is the city’s most famous landmark.

Downriver, between the Kasernenplatz and the Mühlenplatz, the Spreuer Bridge (Spreuerbrücke or Mühlenbrücke, Mill Bridge) zigzags across the Reuss.

Constructed in 1408, it features a series of medieval-style 17th Century plague paintings by Kaspar Meglinger titled ‘Dance of Death.’ The bridge has a small chapel in the middle that was added in 1568.

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Other attractive squares include Hirschenplatz Square and the Kornmarkt Square, which features the Town Hall and the beautifully painted Pfistern guildhall. The Jesuit church dating from the 17th century is regarded as Switzerland’s first sacral Baroque building and the twin towers of the Hofkirche form an integral part of the townscape.

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- The Dying Lion of Lucerne: The figure of a dying lion, which was hewn from a natural rock face in remembrance of the heroic death of Swiss guards killed during an attack on the Tuileries in 1792, is one of the best-known monuments in Switzerland. Globetrotter Mark Twain described the Lion of Lucerne as “the saddest and most moving piece of rock in the world.” And with its 112-metre-long Bourbaki panorama, Lucerne possesses one of the worlds few maintained, mammoth circular paintings.

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Lucerne On The River

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- Mountain Excursions: Lucerne is the ideal starting point for many excursions to the mountains of central Switzerland. A trip up to either Pilatus or the Rigi – the dual queen of mountains – is a must. Like Pilatus and Rigi, Stanserhorn is also a mountain excursion made accessible by cableways. Follow in the footsteps of Mark Twain and Queen Victoria, the first famous visitors of Mt. Rigi, the sun terrace above Lake Lucerne with views over the snow-capped Alps and 13 lakes. There are several possible ways to get to Mt. Rigi from Lucerne such as by steamboat from Lucerne to Vitznau and then the cogwheel train up to “Rigi-Kulm”; a ride back to “Rigi-Kaltbad” and then with the gondola to Weggis and back to Lucerne by boat. Alternatively descend down to Goldau by cable car and then return to Lucerne by train.

The Dying Lion

Lucerne Fountain

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- Hiking Trails: Those boots were made for walking and Switzerland is too. If your plans include any time in a Swiss Canton bring along a sturdy pair of hiking boots and a small day-pack as there are trails to suit all types. Hiking in Switzerland ought to be the dedicated national pastime as so many people do it. On trails and tracks around the country, on most weekends, you’ll find hundreds of people wearing or carrying all the latest gear, from fancy snow boots and walking poles to high-end jackets and backpacks. The mountains surrounding Lucerne are no exception and many trails are considered ideal for both inexperienced and intermediate hikers.

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- Towers and Clocks: From almost every vantage point in the city it is almost impossible not to notice a clock tower. Take a visit to the rampart walls built in 1386 and you’ll find a number of original towers. Three of these towers are open to the public: Schirmer, Zyt and Männli. The oldest city clock built

by Hans Luter in 1535 is on the Zyt Tower. This clock is privileged to chime every hour, one minute before all the other city clocks. A unique collection of other old tower clocks (1526-1820) is in Lucerne’s clock tower.

facts: Accommodation Options ➜ www.luzern.com The author travelled to and was hosted in Switzerland courtesy of Switzerland Tourism ➜ www.myswitzerland.com As of 1 January 2015, the Swiss Travel Pass will offer new validity dates of three, four, eight and 15 days. The Pass will continue to grant users unlimited travel on all public transportation and access to 480 museums across the country in more than 75 towns and cities. The Pass will now be printable from home. The old Swiss Flexi Pass has been renamed the Swiss Travel Pass Flex, which is the best option for visitors seeking flexible travel dates. The Swiss Travel Pass Flex will offer unlimited travel on all public transport on any three, four, eight or 15 selected days within one month. For more information on the Swiss Travel Passes visit: ➜ www.myswitzerland.com and ➜ myswitzerland.com/rail.

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- Rathaus (Town Hall): Built between 1602-1606 by Anton Isenmann in the Italian Renaissance style, the Rathaus is covered with a Bern farmhouse roof for weather purposes. The open arches facing the Ruess still serve today as a weekly marketplace. This is a great place to wander if you are in Lucerne on market day.

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- Swiss Museum of Transport: This is one of the most diverse museums in Europe for transport and communication and the most-visited museum in Switzerland. The Swiss Museum of Transport brings the development of transport and communication thrillingly to life for visitors of all ages. Other highlights include the film theatre, the planetarium and the Swissarena – a vast 1:20,000 aerial photograph of Switzerland you can walk across.

BEYOND | SWITZERLAND

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Destination ➜ Australia

Southern Capitals AUSTRALIA | AAT KINGS

By Gary Dickson

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hort on time but want to see as much of Australia’s Southern Capitals as possible – then jump on board with AAT Kings. The variety of tours and the experience of their team make for a very enjoyable experience whichever tour you choose.

I was invited on their 5-day Southern Capitals – which would see us depart Sydney from their departure hotel, The Four Points by Sheraton, Darling Harbour, before winding our way through outback NSW to our first night’s stop in Canberra.

By law, the bus driver for these tours has to stop every couple of hours, so you get to walk and explore smaller towns along the way. Places that you’d probably never stop off at if you were driving yourself. Plus it means that you’re not cooped up in a bus (coach) for hours on end, watching the world fly past. I must admit – even if we were – that the fully air-conditioned coaches are very luxurious with all the necessary amenities.

AUSTRALIA | AAT KINGS

So Canberra was our first night’s stop. Had heard mixed things about Canberra, but must admit it was quite an interesting place to visit. The AAT Kings crew keep you busy with things to do – or you can spend time exploring by yourself.

The Canberra stop included a fully hosted tour of the Parliament Buildings, a visit to the Australian War museum, and a magnificent bbq lunch at a sheep farm, where those more adept than I had the chance to catch a sheep. Quite comedic for some folks! After a refreshing night’s sleep it was off on the road again to the gold mining hub that is Beechworth, Victoria.

Quick breaks at the Thredbo ski fields (sans any snow) and a look at the famous (and very impressive) Snowy River Hydro system, meant we were refreshed when the coach pulled in to Beechworth.

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But before we arrived we also got to stop off at the little town of Glenrowan. Those of you who know your Aussie history will know this is where Ned Kelly and his gang made their final stand against the Victorian Police on the 28th June 1880. The entire gang, except Kelly, were slain and Kelly was taken to Melbourne where he was later convicted of the murder of three policemen and hung at the old Melbourne jail on the 11th November 1880. He was one month short of his 26th birthday.

There is a short walk around Glenrowan where you can follow marked posts that describe the events as they unfolded that day. There is also a great little pub, which serves meals and a very much needed cold lager.

Accommodation in Beechworth is at a variety of B&Bs. Dependent on the number of guests on your tour, you will each be allocated a place of abode for the night and hosted with good old country hospitality. My allocated place was the Alba Country Rose.

Then it was off to a local pub for a hearty meal and a history lesson on the discovery of gold in this region and how it formed the state of Victoria, and Australia, as we know it today.

The final two nights were spent in my favourite Australian capital city…Melbourne. Time here is basically at you leisure to explore, but AAT Kings will also happily help organise day trips for you in or outside Melbourne.

I chose to meet old friends and explore more of the laneways, cafés and bars. There is never a time when I’ve been to Melbourne when something exciting isn’t happening – be it a sports event, a new show, a new restaurant, bar of café opening.

facts: AAT Kings’ 5-day Southern Capitals – City meets Bush guided holiday is priced from $1,950 per person twin share. Travel from Sydney to Melbourne with overnight stops in Canberra and Beechworth. Departure dates available throughout the year. Holiday includes many meals, sightseeing, accommodation, transport, airport transfers and the services of a knowledgeable tour director and driver.

Filled with almost 60 guided holidays, short breaks and day tours as well as 16 new itineraries across the Tasman, AAT Kings 2015/16 Australia travel programme is out now. Visit➜ www.aatkings.com, freephone 0800 500 146 or ask your travel agent.

DID YOU KNOW? Melbourne was the capital city of Australia for 26 years before the current national capital, Canberra, was built.

Melbourne skyline, Victoria, Australia

A DAY IN THE lIFE...

Of a business event in Melbourne

Melbourne, an ever-changing city with surprises around every corner was voted the World’s Most Liveable City for the fourth year in a row in 2014, and it doesn’t take long for visitors to understand why. Just one day at a business event in Melbourne could give you a taste of everything for which the city is famous, including its hidden laneways, art and culture, major events, and progressive dining scene.

7:30 - BREAKFAST It’s no secret that Melbournians are passionate about their coffee, and for this reason there is no shortage of cafes and restaurants serving up a fresh brew and breakfast. Located in South Yarra, the award-winning owners of Lucky Penny are set on celebrating fine local produce; while Terra Rosa offers modern Australian with an Italian twist in the historic Swiss House building.

9:00 - BUSINESS With more than 50 years’ experience, Peter Rowland Catering consistently reaches new heights in quality, innovation and customer satisfaction.

Unique venues are a given, such as Flemington - The Event Centre. Meet up to 1,500 guests here before a private tour of the racecourse, home of the famous Melbourne Cup Carnival. Meanwhile, Melbourne Museum’s award-winning design showcases an innovative combination of space, texture and shapes; from soaring glass walls to bold, bright columns, the Museum is a perfect venue for events of up to 200 guests.

12:30 - LUNCH Ascend to level 55 of Melbourne’s Rialto building to

Shannon Bennett’s Vue de Monde, an awardwinning restaurant with capacity for up to 160 guests, which boasts three Good Food Guide chef’s hats. Look out over the city as you enjoy a long and lingering feast or a quick working lunch.

Alternatively, Melbourne’s newest riverside dining precinct, South Wharf Promenade offers a variety of venues for groups large and small, such as the Spanish themed Bohemian and the Australian BBQ inspired Meat Market South Wharf.

14:00 - SIGHTSEEING Queen Victoria Markets are often referred to as the heart and soul of Melbourne. This historic landmark spanning two city blocks is great to stroll through at leisure or with a local guide to help you shop for local gourmet produce, cosmetics, clothing and souvenirs. Then hit the footpaths on two wheels with Segway Tours Australia, offering groups an interactive and social experience while taking in all that Melbourne has to offer.

18:00 - SUNSET DRINKS As the sun sets into the horizon, enjoy the view from the best seat in the house - Melbourne Star’s Observation Wheel. Match the vibrant colours of the sunset with a glass of pinot noir, rosé or chardonnay, complemented by chocolate dipped strawberries as you circle the city skyline.

19:30 - DINNER Not only is it home to major sporting events and concerts, Etihad Stadium is an impressive venue for a gala dinner or cocktail event. Its unrivalled location, dining options, and event spaces accommodate functions ranging from 20 to 3,000

VISIT

WWW.AUSTRALIA.COM/BUSINESSEVENTS FOR EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO PLAN YOUR AUSTRALIAN EVENT.

guests. For a gala dinner in a spectacular venue that is unmatched in historical charm or elegant grandeur, the Plaza Ballroom in the heart of the city showcases the lively theatre culture of Melbourne.

Catering for 200 to 1,200 guests, this venue offers a superb sensory experience with dining options crafted by award-winning chefs.

22.00 - DRINKS Before turning in for the evening Melbournians are known to ascend stairs and elevators to drink among the clouds. Rooftop bars offer great views of the city and are especially popular during summer. Palmz at the Carlton is one secluded hideaway where tropical flora juxtaposes with the city skyline.

23:00 - SLEEP Crown Towers, with its prime Southbank location, offers a welcoming and opulent escape from the buzzing city life outside. Wind down from your busy day in a contemporary yet lavish room that showcases the unparalleled luxury of the Crown brand. Alternatively, settle in at The Langham Melbourne to experience that home away from home feeling. Take in the panoramic views of the sparking city skyline as you drift off to sleep in your Blissful Bed.

Start planning now Find more itineraries and pitching resources at australia.com/businessevents. Or contact Chris Ingram, Partnership Manager at Tourism Australia (+64 9 915 2878) for more information.

NEW ZEALAND | CHATHAM ISLANDS

Destination ➜ Chatham Islands, New Zealand

Where Clocks and Calendars Don’t Count Words and images by Shane Boocock

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Pitt Island

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ven on a summer’s day, stony cold, rough and rugged, windswept and bleak are words that are associated with the Chatham Islands, the furthest inhabited islands in New Zealand. With just 1,500 visitors a year, mainly New Zealanders who travel on package tours, the Chathams are not on everyone’s bucket list list, but if like me, you enjoy outdoor pursuits such as fishing and hiking or even geology, botany, ornithology or maybe you just want to bloody-well get away from it all, then this is a destination worth a look-see.

“Everybody’s a bit of everybody on Chatham Island,” said Toni our tour bus driver as we settled into our old, uncomfortable Chatham Island bus seats, “I’m part Moriori and part Maori, yet everybody my age and younger think of themselves as Chatham Islanders.” She said, referring to the fact that the island was originally occupied by the peaceful Moriori people between 700 to 800 years ago until the 1830’s when two boatloads of North Island Maori arrived and later slaughtered almost the entire population of 2,000 inhabitants. However, by the time that happened many had

NEW ZEALAND | CHATHAM ISLANDS Flowerpot Bay Lodge

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interbred and the last full-bloodied Moriori, Tame Horomona Rehe died in 1933 and today is honoured with a stone statue near where he lived.

Earlier in the day, I disembarked our ship’s zodiac along with my fellow Silversea cruise ship passengers from seven other countries, including 15 New Zealanders, to discover and learn about early Moriori culture and how the 600 plus mixed race Moriori and Maori inhabitants today live and survive in such remote oceanic islands. As I landed it was as if I had stepped back in time, into a self-sufficient, independent community, a place where the noise of diesel generators thumping the air provide power and the trickle of rainwater which is still collected in tanks.

The Chatham Islands form an archipelago in the Pacific Ocean about 750 km to the east of New Zealand’s South Island. It consists of 11 islands within a 40 km radius, the largest of which are Chatham Island and Pitt Island.

The archipelago is called Rekoho (Misty Sun) in the indigenous language Moriori, and Wharekauri in Maori. It has officially been part of New Zealand since 1842, and includes the country’s easternmost part, the Forty-Fours.

The total group of islands cover a total of 966 sq.km, almost all of which is in the two main islands.

Chatham Island is mainly undulating countryside with a varied mix of coastline from cliffs and sand dunes, to long sweeping beaches and big inland lagoons. Pitt Island, 22 km to the southeast is surprisingly more rugged than Chatham, while the highest point at 241 m is on a plateau near the southernmost point. It is dotted with numerous lakes and lagoons, notably the large Te Whanga Lagoon. The island history is of sealers, whalers, shipwrecks and even scurrilous smugglers. Chatham and Pitt are the only inhabited islands with the remaining smaller islands being conservation reserves with access restricted or prohibited. The livelihoods of today’s inhabitants depend on fishing and agriculture such as beef and wool. Tourism is gradually growing but it’s the strong fishing industry that does really well – especially the export of cold-water crayfish, paua, kina and blue cod.

Named after a now collapsed limestone rock on the foreshore in the shape of a flowerpot on Pitt Island, Brent and Bernie Mallison opened Flowerpot Bay Lodge, in Flowerpot Bay in 2014. The first European to settle here was Frederick Hunt who landed in 1843. Back then there were just 20 Moriori inhabitants living on the 16,000 acre, bush covered island. Frederick Hunt eventually cleared land and grazed cattle and sheep, but his survival was really down to the U.S.A. whaling ships that stopped by on a regular basis with which he traded food for money and goods annually.

Today there are 30 adults and three children living on Pitt Island in five farms on about 10,000 acres as approximately 6,000 acres are owned by the Department of Conservation. About a third of the adults are direct descendants from Frederick Hunt.

The lodge can accommodate 10 guests in five king-sized suites with private balconies and as part of their all-inclusive packages, a range of activities can be included such as bird watching, geology, hiking, quad bike adventures, fishing tours, mountain biking and hunting. The lodge also has a DOC concession to access scenic reserves where guests are guided through secluded beaches, native forests, along dramatic cliff walks and to scenic points on the island.

Museum

Forget-me-nots

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As we got back into the bus, Toni was still chatting away, “Moriori are really jovial,” she said, as she thrust her body forcefully against the inside door of the bus, “first time I’ve driven this bloody bus and I can’t figure out how to close the door,” she pronounced, before slamming it shut and laughing out loud. It was an old Mitsubishi FUSO that had no valid registration, no seat belts and a good number of salt encrusted rusty dents, as well a door that wouldn’t close.

Toni stopped the bus on a bridge to observe the colour of the stream running beneath, which was treacle-coloured, when suddenly the bus started rolling gently forward, Toni had forgotten to put the handbrake on. Once again she gave a gentle smile and carried on her discourse as to why the river was so dark. It seems that the landscape of Chatham Island is 80% peat bog, which causes the stream to turn as dark as a the bottom of a burnt pan.

Chatham Island has a large saltwater lake called Te Whanga Lagoon and some smaller freshwater lakes. “The lagoon is our seafood supermarket,” Toni explained. “We pull whitebait, cockles, flounder and eels from there most days.

We don’t need them fancy stores to do our shopping.”

A visit to Toni’s mum was on the itinerary as Lois Croon owns and operates Admiral Farm and Gardens, named after the Admiral butterfly, which is one of the main pollinators on the Chatham Islands. Lois hosts tours around her sprawling weed-free gardens where (if you’re lucky) you’ll see the Chatham Island’s Forget-me-not in bloom and an array of endemic Chatham Island plants, followed by afternoon tea and an assortment of sticky cakes. A fancy BBQ awaits those who arrive on Sundays.

Named after the ship HMS Chatham of the Vancouver Expedition which landed here in 1791, the islands are a breeding ground for huge flocks of seabirds and prevalent species such as the magenta petrel and black robin, oystercatcher, the Chatham Island warbler, Chatham pigeon, Forbes’ parakeet, black swan, fairy pion, the Chatham snipe, shore plover, Chatham shag, Pitt Island shag and the Chatham Island (mollymock) albatross. A number of common mammals are also found in the waters of the

Chathams, including New Zealand sea lions, leopard seals and southern elephant seals.

The main settlement is called Waitangi where I found a conglomerate of small houses, some commercial buildings, a working wharf, petrol station, museum, grocery store and craft shop, a bank, a two-person police station and the Chatham Hotel and local bar, which on the day we arrived was full of locals celebrating Christmas…almost a month early.

As I sat with a local drinking in the bar he said proudly, “We long ago learned not to depend on clocks, calendars or climate forecasts. From here I can easily keep one eye on my beer and the other eye on the winds and outgoing tide, and tomorrow morning I’ll still wake up in the first place in the world to view a new dawn,” he said. Who was I to argue!

facts: Silversea offer a range of cruises worldwide on seven different vessels (three of which are expedition ships), from short journeys between seven days and 22+ days at sea.

If you are not part of a cruise ship visit, you can fly to the Chatham Island’s and choose from a range of outdoor and accommodation options on 5-7 day packages staying at B&Bs, backpackers, motels, hotels, lodges or upmarket farm stays.

Silversea Expedition Cruises ➜ www.silversea.com Flowerpot Lodge, Pitt Island ➜ www.flowerpotlodge.co.nz Discover the Chatham Islands ➜ www.discoverthechathamislands.co.nz Air Chathams ➜ www.airchathams.co.nz

Destination ➜ Wairarapa, New Zealand

Fast Post to the Shipwreck Coast NEW ZEALAND | WAIRARAPA

Words and images by Paul Rush

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Palliser Bay is an intriguing mix of landscapes and seacapes

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ordon Wyeth is easy to spot on the quiet streets of Featherston, not just for his bright red and yellow vest and friendly manner, but also the pronounced ‘Wairarapa Lean’.

South Wairarapa locals, who frequent the legendary Palliser Bay coast (the jawbone of Maui’s great fish), display the tendency to lean into the ‘Old Man’ southerly wind. It takes a hardy breed to survive the foam-flecked, wave-lashed nether regions of the North Island. I want a first-hand experience of their private world.

Gordon has devoted ten years to the 220km, six-hourreturn mail run and has the delivery routine off pat. As we trundle down the Martinborough-Lake Ferry Road, often diverting into gravel side roads, he tells me, tongue-in-cheek, that his trusty Toyota van knows the route by heart.

‘It’s programmed like an automaton and guided by a magnetic field,’ he says. Sure enough, the van angles into driveway crossings, stopping mere centimetres from each letterbox. ‘So you just feed out the letters, papers and parcels into the ravenous letterboxes?’ I say, entering into the spirit of the journey.

‘We have letterboxes of every hue and character, from the smartest to dumbest, the prettiest and plainest,’ Gordon says. On the route we spot milk pails that give a musical sound. One disgruntled wooden box snaps back like Arkwright’s grocery store till. Rustic mini-sheds with mould-encrusted boards are common. A nesting thrush shoots out of one like a rocket.

We pull into the charming 1882 vintage Pirinoa Store for a delivery. I notice Gordon the Mailman’s 2013 calendar on

NEW ZEALAND | WAIRARAPA

Pirinoa General Store takes a big delivery

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Gordon and Ian relax on the hand-hewn seaside lounger

display, highlighting his photograph skills. ‘I’m often a fixture at the local rugby club taking photos,’ Gordon tells me. ‘My boy plays for them and two of my daughters ran off with two team members, so I support them on club days.’

Gordon came to Featherston from Masterton 25 years ago. ‘The simple lifestyle here gives me the best of all worlds. I fatten 15 calves, feed six chooks, keep my boat at Ngawi and my dive gear on hand so I can bring home a crayfish or paua for supper. My wife and I are gracefully entering the third age – it’s the best time.’

We pull into an organic farm where Gordon delivers the mail and then takes a moment to feed Maisey the deer.

Later we feed emus at a farm gate and view stately homes set in magnificent gardens replete with tuis and pigeons.

As we reach Lake Ferry, Gordon explains how he

Cape Palliser Lighthouse

learned to curb his latent sense of humour. An elderly lady asked, ‘Do you have my bills today?’ ‘No I threw them in the Ruamahanga River when I came over the bridge,’ he replied.

The horrified lady cried, ‘But I need my pills.’ He quickly assured her that he didn’t throw her vital pills away. They arrived the next day.

At Lake Ferry Hotel I take in the grand view over Lake Onoke to the jagged outline of the Rimutaka Range. The hotel is known for its signature fish and chips. I’m intrigued by an original sign on the hotel wall bearing the charges for a ferry crossing when a man and a horse cost one shilling and sixpence for the ride.

Descending to the coast at Whangaimoana, we pass the 1876 homestay castle with its grand columnar facade and Thompson’s Hill, where several houses on the precipitous

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cliff tops have been washed into the sea. In Ning Nong Bay it was once said that you’d have to be a ning nong (an antiquated derogatory term) to live so close to the tumultuous sea.

I keep a weather eye out for the Dimholt Road, a fictitious highway where the Army of the Dead marched in the Lord of the Rings movie Return of the KIng. In real life it’s a weird natural formation called Putangirua Pinnacles, where Gothic spires and fluted cliffs of eroded river gravels form a surreal avenue.

Suddenly coming upon the fishing village of Ngawi gives me quite a start. The tiny windswept enclave nestles in a horseshoe bay under towering hills. Close-ranked squadrons of massive bulldozers and fishing boat cradles perch on the crown of the steep shingle beach - a powerful statement of human defiance on this isolated coast, where 31 ships have been wrecked since colonial settlement.

Ngawi seems the ideal place to take a lunch break as Gordon’s normal spot amongst the craggy rock stacks of the fur seal colony is lost in a miasma of flying spray. White horses are racing at the beach in a foam-flecked cavalry charge. By good fortune, recently retired bach owner of 23 years, Ian Warren, and his wife are at home and offer us hospitality.

They live on the edge of the sea – literally, as their bach stands four-square on the seaweed and driftwood margin of high tide. A Tui Beer flag flies on a flagpole, proclaiming that the amber ambrosia from the Mangatainoka factory rules here. A purloined ‘Warren Street’ sign from some distant neighbourhood points the way to the nautical abode.

We hunker down inside a cosy family room and enjoy muffins, tea and a chat. Ian tells me, ‘Only one storm has managed to drive the Pacific swells into the lounge so far.

If you love the outdoors, Ngawi is a true Pacific Paradise – without the palm trees.’

The Tui beer pennant flies

facts: Paul Rush travelled to Cape Palliser with assistance from Destination Wairarapa, Cross-Country Rentals, Peppers Martinborough Hotel and ‘To the Coast with the Post’.

The $85 per person ‘To the Coast with the Post’ tours leave from the Everest Cafe in Featherston’s main street around 8am to 8.30am and return around 4pm. ➜ www.wairarapanz.com ➜ www.martinboroughhotel.co.nz

Further east, the gravel road winds over the last 5km to the cape, passing clusters of 1950’s style baches, which steadfastly face the wrath of the Southern Ocean. There’s an overwhelming feeling of space and openness here.

There’s nothing between this savage shore and Antarctica.

Rounding a bend, the great cast iron, red-banded Cape Palliser Lighthouse looms up ahead. Gordon streaks up the 250 near-vertical steps leaving me in his wake. I look out in wonder at the broad tumultuous sweep of Palliser Bay to Turakirae Head.

Descending to the beach and rock-hopping over 100 million-year-old pillow lava, I focus hard on keeping my balance, only to run headlong into a big male fur seal. He barks a warning and I beat a hasty retreat. Residents know their territorial rights in the largest North Island seal colony.

That big male is the last creature I meet on my postal run with Gordon, the ‘King of the Road’. Strangely, this wonderfully diverse coast is the epitome of wilderness yet leaves the visitor with a sublime sense of peace.

The Whangaimoana Homestay castle has a grand facade

Some Palliser Bay residents have got their priorities right

I S L A N D S

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Air Vanuatu - The ONLY airline providing business class seats between Auckland and Port Vila.

The ONLY airline offering convenient middle day arrivals and departures at Auckland every Wednesday , Saturday & Sunday* ensuring connections to and from all NZ domestic airports. The ONLY airline offering fantastic childrens fares!

We know our place better than anyone * Sunday flight shared with Air New Zealand

airvanuatu.com www.vanuatu.travel

Destination ➜ Las Vegas, U.S.A

Pink Jeeps City Tour

U.S.A. | LAS VEGAS

By Carol Fordyce

www.letstravelmag.com

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he best way, by far, to get to know Las Vegas is to tour the brilliant city at night. Pink Jeeps Bright Lights City Tour offers personally guided and narrated tours for 3 hours (US$55), with the drivers imparting a wealth of knowledge and history about the fabulous city. Pickup was at 4.45pm from our hotel in the eye-catching Pink Jeep® Wrangler, which can seat up to 7 passengers. If you are in Vegas at New Year, which we were, make sure you dress accordingly for the cooler temperatures because you do make several stops on your way around the city. Pink Jeeps thoughtfully provide spare jackets and even blankets, just in case.

Pink Jeeps started in 1958 in Sedona, Arizona, and the Las Vegas operation began over a decade ago. Since then they have won numerous tourism awards for their great customer service and outstanding tours. But they don’t just do city tours. They have a range of exciting excursions including tours to Hoover Dam and the Grand Canyon, and off-roading into Red Rock Canyon.

➜ www.pinkjeeptours.com ➜ www.visitlasvegas.com.au

Fremont Street

U.S.A. | LAS VEGAS

We cruised down Wedding Chapel Row. If you have ever fantasised about getting married in an Elvis costume or by an Elvis impersonator marriage celebrant - then this is the place to tie the knot. Or any other costume or theme you can think of, which is why Vegas is known as the Marriage Capital of the World with over 100,000 weddings per year.

We passed the Gold and Silver Pawn Shop, made famous on American TV’s reality show, Pawn Stars, and had a photo-stop at the High Roller Ferris Wheel, the world’s tallest observation wheel.

Chris then drove us to one of the main highlights of the tour, the Fremont St Experience. FSE is a covered pedestrian mall which stretches 5 blocks at the western end of Fremont St, with an absolutely amazing music and lighting show projected onto the canopy above the street – the longest video screen in the world. Free nightly entertainment is provided on three stages throughout the mall amid the glittering surroundings of some of the most famous old casinos in Vegas. Hearing Heart’s Magic Man at full volume while standing in the middle of a street mall with incredible lighting effects exploding in time to the music is something that will remain a major highlight of our Las Vegas City experience.

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Our first stop on the Bright Lights City Tour was to view the iconic “Welcome To Fabulous Las Vegas Nevada” sign, which is a must-see for everyone visiting Vegas for the first time. Then it was off to the Strip to look at the colourful neon lights and stunning sights of the casinos the city is renowned for: the Mirage with its exploding volcano, the Bellagio with its water fountains, Caesar’s Palace, New York New York with its Big Apple roller-coaster, the Venetian, the Egyptian-styled Luxor; the list goes on.

Our driver, Chris, shared with us lots of interesting history about the city, including the story of the very first Las Vegas casino, the Pink Flamingo Hotel. This was built by one of the most notorious gangsters of the time, Bugsy Siegel. The moral of his story is never cheat on the mob or you’ll end up “swimming with the fishes”. (I’m taking some dramatic license here channelling the Godfather movies because Bugsy ended up being shot to death). And it wasn’t all mobsters and Rat Pack stories – the rumours of the battle between urban legends Steve Wynn and Donald Trump to build a taller building than his rival is a classic. The Wynn Hotel is 187 metres tall, Trump then built the Trump Tower at 190 metres tall, and Wynn trumped The Trump by building The Encore which is 192 metres tall. But there are reports of a second Trump Tower on the drawing board, so the battle may not be over yet. And who knew that the 6.8km Strip isn’t actually in Las Vegas City? It is actually south of the Las Vegas City limits in the towns of Paradise and Winchester.

Machine Guns Vegas

U.S.A. | LAS VEGAS

By Carol Fordyce

www.letstravelmag.com

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s a New Zealander, and female, I have never understood the Americans’ fascination with guns – until now! If you are looking for a totally different tourist encounter outside of the normal Vegas casino experiences (and in my case, outside of my comfort zone), then Machine Guns Vegas is it.

MGV opened in February 2012 and is owned by ex-pat New Zealander, Genghis Cohen, a former member of the SAS, the special forces unit of the NZ Army. Although there are lots of other gun ranges in the USA, this was specifically created for you, the tourist. Whether you are a firearms enthusiast from way back or a beginner (like me) who has never held a gun loaded with live ammunition before, MGV caters for all ages and all sizes. Note: children 17 years or younger must be the necessary height and weight to fire specific firearms and must be accompanied by a parent or legal guardian.

We booked ahead (which meant MGV provided complimentary transport to and from our hotel) and phoned the day before to confirm the pickup details. We were given clear instructions as to what time they would pick us up and where to wait for the unmarked SUV. (My partner in crime-and-life facetiously asked the receptionist if he should wear a pink carnation in his lapel and carry a copy of The Times under his right arm so they could recognise us; no doubt she had heard similar comments many times before and wisely ignored his question). At the appointed time, the black SUV collected our group and took us to the back of a non-descript building only ten minutes from the Strip.

Non-descript? Maybe, but step inside and you find a comfortable lounge and a state-of-the art indoor gun range. There are 10 shooting lanes 21 metres (69 feet) long, which include 2 private firing lanes in the VIP Gun Lounge. We completed the required forms, showed them our government-issued ID (passport or photo driver’s licence is acceptable), and then came the fun part – choosing our gun packages. There is a wide variety of packages available: the Urban Assault, Gamers Experience and The World At War Experience all looked great, although I was seriously

facts: Thanks to Megan Fazio of Neon Public Relations, and Esther Cases Truzman of MGV, for organising a truly memorable experience. ➜ shoot.machinegunsvegas.com ➜ www.visitlasvegas.com.au

U.S.A. | LAS VEGAS

For the gun fanatics among us, the other weapons our group fired were the HK MP5 fully automatic submachine gun, SPAS-12 Tactical shotgun, M249 SAW light machine gun and 223 Sniper rifle, but my favourite had to be the M4 semi-automatic. I loved this gun, and not just because of its pink barrel and shoulder rest, which is definitely targeted to appeal to the feminine psyche. Don’t worry, guys, they come in black as well. Tin cans would become an endangered species in our street if I could have brought one of these babies home in my suitcase!

All three of us were absolutely buzzing at the end of our session. If you’ve ever wondered what it would be like to be James Bond or Wyatt Earp or whoever your favourite shoot-em-up hero may be, Machine Guns Vegas delivers that experience. And Mr or Mrs Been-Everywhere-&-Done-That at the office will never be able to top your MGV tall tales of what you did the last time you were in Las Vegas.

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tempted by the Just Divorced Experience! Instead I opted for the Femme Fatale package (US$110), Hubby chose the Seal Team 6 option (US$160) and our friend, Brent, selected the SAS package (US$190). This meant that between the three of us, we would cover a broad spectrum of the firearms available at MGV, although you can also add other weapons to your standard packages for an additional cost.

Elizabeth (Liz), our Gun Girls Range Safety Officer, took us through all the health and safety aspects prior to moving through to the firing range. We listened very carefully to all her instructions- after all, this is live ammo we’re about to play with! Then after donning protective eyewear and earmuffs (health and safety are prime concerns at MGV), we went through to the shooting lanes. My first impression - the guns are VERY loud. Even with earmuffs, they were a lot louder than I had expected.

Then Liz brought out the weapons! Ladies first – I stepped up to the range and I was handed a loaded Glock 17 pistol. Liz carefully explained how to sight thru the target and where to place your fingers (watch carefully to make sure your right thumb is in the correct place, or the recoil could seriously damage your hand) and I was away. Just call me “Annie Oakley” - this was fun with a capital “F”! Once you shoot off all the bullets in the gun, you then reel in your target and check how accurate you were.

Maybe Annie has nothing to worry about after all, but at least I managed to hit the target somewhere with all of my bullets. Hubby’s turn next with the SIG Sauer 226 9mm pistol (which is used by the Navy SEALs), and then Brent also tried the Glock. He turned out to be the sharpshooter of our group, and then confessed to having spent some considerable time in his youth shooting tin cans with a rifle on a local farm. If you want to brag to your friends or a gun-crazy brother, MGV encourages you to take photos and videos in the firing range.

REGULAR | INSURANCE

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The unexpected never takes a holiday

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ou’re on the holiday of a lifetime, driving your rental car from small town to big city across France, Spain, Italy…and everywhere in-between.

A must-do is visiting cafés and restaurants to sample the local cuisine. The tastes and flavours of Europe are enticing - but when things go wrong, it can leave a bad taste in your mouth.

All of a sudden you are in a local hospital, can’t speak the language and someone is asking you to pay a medical bill. Luckily you bought travel insurance and your travel insurer’s emergency assistance hotline is there to help!

In a time of need assistance is just a phone call away.

They take a personal interest, helping with the unexpected and providing the reassurance you want. They will assist you with: • assessing and monitoring your condition after an accident or illness • providing medical repatriation, if required • assisting with payment of hospital and medical bills • rescheduling disrupted travel plans • providing advice and contact details for airlines, local embassies in the event of lost tickets, passports or travel documents • providing contact details for bank/credit card provider to assist with arrangements for emergency transfer of funds • urgent messages to your family or travel agent Critically, travel insurance protects you against significant financial loss caused by serious accidents, illness or delay in travel, while giving you peace of mind during your travel.

Travel insurance is recommended by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs as essential for all travellers, as it covers emergency medical expenses, medical evacuation or repatriation.

For instance, overseas medical treatments can be expensive whether it is for injury from an accident or for an illness such as food poisoning or appendicitis. Daily hospitalisation costs in the USA can exceed $5,000; repatriation from Australia on a stretcher can be $15,000;

medical evacuation from the USA can range from $90,000 to $300,000. Even travelling to Australia you can incur an ambulance charge exceeding $800.

Serious illness or injury, if uninsured, can become a long-term financial burden, which would have easily been prevented through purchasing travel insurance.

What to look for in a policy?

All travel insurance policies should cover medical expenses, repatriation, lost luggage and liability cover. Most policies include cover for trip interruption and delay, ensuring that you can be accommodated overseas and rebooked on the next available flight.

The unexpected never takes a holiday injury • lost luggage • illness • delays • cyclones • cancelled trips On holiday you want to be delighted by the unexpected - the memorable sunsets or that little café you discovered walking the town on a shore visit.

But the unexpected can be the opposite, causing inconvenience, stress and cost.

Ask your travel agent or broker for QBE travel insurance before you leave home.

Insurance underwritten by QBE Insurance (International) Limited ACN 000 000 948. Policy terms and conditions apply. You should always read the policy wording in full and if you have any questions contact your travel agent or QBE Travel Insurance on 0800 800 608.

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Over the past few years’ travellers have been disrupted, delayed and inconvenienced by ash clouds, tsunamis, hurricanes and earthquakes.

QBE offers travellers comprehensive cover for both domestic and international travel, and can cover you for most situations including: • Cancellation • Overseas medical and dental expenses • Personal liability • Emergency travel expenses and accommodation • Repatriation • Lost or stolen luggage • Replacement of passport and other travel documents • Most sporting activities • Travel delay Travel insurance policy options range from single-trip to annual multi-trip policies. An annual policy may suit the seasoned and regular traveller – allowing you to be covered for multiple trips throughout the year, to numerous global destinations.

With QBE Travel Insurance, if you should find yourself in a stressful situation, you know that you’ll be well cared for. QBE Assist, their specialist emergency assistance company, handles emergency situations of all kinds with speed and expertise. Using QBE’s worldwide support network, they can get you out of trouble quickly, with the minimum of fuss, and back to living ‘la dolce vita’.

That’s why QBE are the preferred travel insurance company for many leading New Zealand travel agents and brokers.

Ask your travel agent or broker for QBE travel insurance before you leave home. Insurance. You should always read the policy wording in full and if you have any questions contact your travel agent or QBE Travel Insurance on 0800 800 608.

AUSTRALIA | NORTHERN TERRITORY

Destination ➜ Northern Territory, Australia

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A Northern Territory Sweet Spot

By Shane Boocock

A

fter a layover in Brisbane I arrived in Darwin in the middle of a very hot afternoon, which is not unusual in Australia’s northern most capital city. A few days later both Queensland and the Northern Territory were hit by a rare occurrence – twin cyclones – I’d dodged not one but two bullets when travelling between the two regions.

I was visiting Darwin to join Great Southern Rail’s Ghan train trip to Adelaide in South Australia, and after a long journey from New Zealand, I was in need of a couple of days restful sleep and the Hilton Hotel Darwin seemed like an ideal choice.

In April 2014, the Hilton Darwin completed its five million dollar major renovation project. The renovation encompassed a complete redesign of the Executive Rooms, a revitalisation of the guest room bathrooms and entranceways, as well as the introduction of a ‘state of the art’ Fitness Centre.

Overlooking picturesque Darwin Harbour, Hilton Darwin offers 236 modern guest rooms, five flexible meeting rooms, a high-end seafood restaurant (Mitchell’s Bar & Grill) and Darwin’s only Executive Lounge. Ideally located in the heart of the CBD, this stylish hotel is within walking distance of all major corporate offices and government buildings, the Darwin Convention Centre, and great shopping, dining and entertainment opportunities.

In 2014, Martin Kendall, Area General Manager, Northern Territory, remarked, “This was an exciting year for us as we welcomed this substantial investment in the hotel. Our Executive Rooms and Suites have played host to famous presidents and politicians and have also been the choice for visitors and locals alike looking for something special. This refurbishment will be a fantastic boost to our existing offering and considerably enhance the guest experience and add another level of sophistication to the Darwin market.”

Minister for Tourism at the time, Matt Conlan, said, “The multi-million dollar investment by the Hilton Darwin was a great vote of confidence in the Territory’s tourism industry.

The Territory Government is committed to growing our tourism industry and the Hilton brand is highly regarded

facts: Hilton Darwin P: +61 8 8982 0000 ➜ www3.hilton.com/en/hotels/northern-

Air New Zealand fly from Auckland to Brisbane ➜ www.airnewzealand.co.nz Qantas fly to Darwin from a number of Australian cities: ➜ www.qantas.com.au Useful Products For lightweight sturdy travelling cases look at the new range of American Tourister products that are available in New Zealand at all Briscoes retail stores: ➜ www.americantourister.com or ➜ www.briscoes.co.nz I tried out a new App recently called TripRider. It’s a smart travel notebook for organising, managing, sharing and keeping trip details in one place. Designed for iPhones and iPads it’s easy to use and works offline.

Lite version is Free. Full version is US $4.99 ➜ www.triprider.com

Worried about damaging your iPhone and iPad when travelling? Whether you’re trekking in the Amazon rainforest or just relaxing on a beach in Fiji, Griffin’s Survivor range are shock-absorbing, resistant to dust, wind, dirt and rain and sustain six-foot drops. Available: at leading electronics stores in New Zealand or purchase online: ➜ www.griffintechnology.com

around the world as a quality product. The refurbishment project by the Hilton Darwin is a great boost for our economy and will enhance the range of accommodation choices available in the Northern Territory to visitors and business travellers alike.”

Hilton Darwin’s renovation embodies contemporary design concepts, which are characterised by energy efficient, environmentally sympathetic, and contemporary styling. The Executive Rooms have been completely revamped with a whole new look and feel, introducing contemporary décor, lush furnishings and accents. The remaining guest rooms have undergone a complete bathroom and entranceway refurbishment, offering an

elegant aesthetic with walk-in showers, intelligent lighting and quality furnishings and finishes.

The brand new 24 hour Fitness Centre, located on level 10, comprises ultra-modern gym equipment, including brand new ‘Precor’ cardio, strength and core balance equipment.

The Fitness Centre also boasts flat screen LCD televisions, natural light and glimpses of beautiful Darwin Harbour.

The Hilton Darwin is located just moments away from Bicentennial Park, and only a brief walk from downtown in the centre of vibrant Darwin. Nearby is a good range of shopping, dining and entertainment options, as well as Darwin’s Convention Centre. The hotel is close to the Stuart Highway and offers easy access to Darwin International Airport, a mere 15 minutes away. The hotel offers an ideal destination whether you are travelling for business or pleasure.

For those people lucky enough to be travelling on The Ghan, Great Southern Rail will arrange, for Gold and Platinum guests only, a free pick up for you from your hotel for a 30-minute coach ride to the station.

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Great Southern Rail P: +61 8 8213 4401 ➜ www.greatsouthernrail.com.au

AUSTRALIA | NORTHERN TERRITORY

territory/hilton-darwin-DRWHDHI

Destination ➜ New Orleans, U.S.A

Fat Tuesdays in New Orleans U.S.A. | NEW ORLEANS

By Keith Flanagan

www.letstravelmag.com

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wenty five million pounds of plastic greets New Orleans every year during the onset of February… in one polychromatic shower of beads - colloquially referred to as ‘throws’ - that might even rival the splendour of a double rainbow. Before culminating on Fat Tuesday, the Crescent City erupts in the cacophony that is Mardi Gras…a celebration equally steeped in tradition as it is tawdry costumes and drunken displays of affection.

Much like the plastic baby Jesus that’s buried beneath cinnamon and sugar inside the event’s traditional Kings Cake, it’s easy to assume that any hopes for civilised travel will be

smothered by the spectacle’s ostensible disorder. But step on to New Orleans’ streets during this annual occasion and you’ll find a certain confluence of folks from all orders - both the high and yes, the disorderly. Mardi Gras may not be for everyone, but that doesn’t mean that everyone isn’t welcome.

Parades are as ubiquitous as they are distinct during the celebration, pumping pomp through the veins of city streets in virtually every part of New Orleans. Exclusive groups known as ‘krewes’ run individual parades, and though there’s no wrong parade to choose, one sure bet is the Krewe of Bacchus.

U.S.A. | NEW ORLEANS

With over 1,400 members, the Krewe of Bacchus was founded in 1968 with the goal of reinvigorating Mardi Gras, and is thus a perfect example of the idealised parades of today. The Krewe of Bacchus launches some of the largest floats, 30 on average, often helmed by celebrity guests with a generous allocation of throws for the masses.

Larger crowds bring out the competitive side of onlookers so beware of your neighbours as even the sweetest of grandmothers will jab you in the rib in order to grab a precious throw. Each krewe has its own quirk, so make a point to seek out the Krewe of Zulu, one of the more peculiar groups which tosses a limited supply of ‘golden nuggets,’ coveted painted coconuts that even make the locals go “coo”.

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U.S.A. | NEW ORLEANS

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If you arrive well in advance of Fat Tuesday, you’ll not only be among a more placid, select group of travellers avoiding the crowds, but you’ll also have a better chance of encountering the city’s more nuanced parades. One such example is the ‘tit R-x Krewe, an antithesis of the Krewe of Bacchus, which rolls out the celebration’s smallest floats as the city’s only Micro-Krewe. Boasting similar quantities as larger parades, ‘tit R-x rolls out 28 floats, each built on the humble foundation of a shoebox and all acutely aware of their stature with playful concepts such as a miniature rolling “Wee Mart Supercenter”.

As enthralled by the festivities as you’ll be, trust that you will not forget to eat (no one worries about a lack of drinking). Whether attendees are conscious of its history or not, the consumption of beignets and copious spirits is actually a religious pursuit given that the lead up to Fat Tuesday is in anticipation of the beginning of Lent. This might be the only time of the year that your gluttony and debauchery is sanctioned, and luckily New Orleans doles out food and spirits in excess.

Whether you’re opting for tourist staples like a Hurricane cocktail from Pat O’Brien’s or exploring the many variations of The Sazerac, you’ll find that New Orleans knows booze, and a fine drink is never hard to find. Sure, it will be everyone’s favourite piece of advice to avoid Bourbon Street, a name that’s now emblematic of its saturation of bars, but we all end up on Bourbon Street (even if we’re just passing through) so you might choose to stop at Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop Bar on your way. Lafitte’s touts the claim of being one of the oldest structures in the United States to be used as a bar, but it’s most known for Frozen Voodoo Juice, a purple daiquiri spirited with Everclear that’s reminiscent in both colour and flavour of cough syrup.

➜ www.neworleanscvb.com

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Served in a styrofoam cup, the Frozen Voodoo Juice might sum up the Bourbon Street experience in one gulp that’s perhaps all you may need and slightly more than you can handle.

When the topic of food is on the table, debate ensues.

Some visitors and locals alike will champion the chicory coffee and beignets-worth-waiting-for at Cafe Du Monde, while others might direct you to Cafe Beignet for shorter lines and an equally, if not superior fritter. Folks will also encourage you to pick up a classic shrimp po-boy at Domilise’s Po-Boys in Uptown ‘s truly local area that perhaps lacks scenery, while others will suggest Erin Rose for a true scene, a bar in the French Quarter sheltering a secret po-boy shop in the rear. But what’s indisputable and perhaps a necessary relief from the haze of Mardi Gras is a trip to Bacchanal Fine Wine & Spirits. Bacchanal is almost certainly a nod to Bacchanalia, ancient festivals held in honour of Bacchus (the Roman god of wine), which led secret processions far from Rome’s city centre for nights of revelry. This far-flung restaurant offers an elegant version of those ancient rituals, luring you away from the grid into its backyard garden for hours of wine and live music at the furthermost corner of the Bywater district. Pick up a bottle from their wine shop and settle into whatever nook you can find. The menu is infallible, but if you choose to order the mussels, be sure to add a side of bread so that none of the creamy, sage-infused sauce goes to waste.

If you truly experience Mardi Gras, you’ll leave exhausted from having coursed the city by foot at a leisurely pace for days, perhaps even sore from the mane of glittering throws which rest proudly and heavily around your neck. New Orleans will clean up after you once you leave, but only as a means of welcoming you back for future visits to this easy and carefree city.

U.S.A. | NEW ORLEANS

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If you arrive well in advance of Fat Tuesday, you’ll not only be among a more placid, select group of travellers avoiding the crowds, but you’ll also have a better chance of encountering the city’s more nuanced parades. One such example is the ‘tit R-x Krewe, an antithesis of the Krewe of Bacchus, which rolls out the celebration’s smallest floats as the city’s only Micro-Krewe. Boasting similar quantities as larger parades, ‘tit R-x rolls out 28 floats, each built on the humble foundation of a shoebox and all acutely aware of their stature with playful concepts such as a miniature rolling “Wee Mart Supercenter”.

As enthralled by the festivities as you’ll be, trust that you will not forget to eat (no one worries about a lack of drinking). Whether attendees are conscious of its history or not, the consumption of beignets and copious spirits is actually a religious pursuit given that the lead up to Fat Tuesday is in anticipation of the beginning of Lent. This might be the only time of the year that your gluttony and debauchery is sanctioned, and luckily New Orleans doles out food and spirits in excess.

Whether you’re opting for tourist staples like a Hurricane cocktail from Pat O’Brien’s or exploring the many variations of The Sazerac, you’ll find that New Orleans knows booze, and a fine drink is never hard to find. Sure, it will be everyone’s favourite piece of advice to avoid Bourbon Street, a name that’s now emblematic of its saturation of bars, but we all end up on Bourbon Street (even if we’re just passing through) so you might choose to stop at Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop Bar on your way. Lafitte’s touts the claim of being one of the oldest structures in the United States to be used as a bar, but it’s most known for Frozen Voodoo Juice, a purple daiquiri spirited with Everclear that’s reminiscent in both colour and flavour of cough syrup.

➜ www.neworleanscvb.com

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Served in a styrofoam cup, the Frozen Voodoo Juice might sum up the Bourbon Street experience in one gulp that’s perhaps all you may need and slightly more than you can handle.

When the topic of food is on the table, debate ensues.

Some visitors and locals alike will champion the chicory coffee and beignets-worth-waiting-for at Cafe Du Monde, while others might direct you to Cafe Beignet for shorter lines and an equally, if not superior fritter. Folks will also encourage you to pick up a classic shrimp po-boy at Domilise’s Po-Boys in Uptown ‘s truly local area that perhaps lacks scenery, while others will suggest Erin Rose for a true scene, a bar in the French Quarter sheltering a secret po-boy shop in the rear. But what’s indisputable and perhaps a necessary relief from the haze of Mardi Gras is a trip to Bacchanal Fine Wine & Spirits. Bacchanal is almost certainly a nod to Bacchanalia, ancient festivals held in honour of Bacchus (the Roman god of wine), which led secret processions far from Rome’s city centre for nights of revelry. This far-flung restaurant offers an elegant version of those ancient rituals, luring you away from the grid into its backyard garden for hours of wine and live music at the furthermost corner of the Bywater district. Pick up a bottle from their wine shop and settle into whatever nook you can find. The menu is infallible, but if you choose to order the mussels, be sure to add a side of bread so that none of the creamy, sage-infused sauce goes to waste.

If you truly experience Mardi Gras, you’ll leave exhausted from having coursed the city by foot at a leisurely pace for days, perhaps even sore from the mane of glittering throws which rest proudly and heavily around your neck. New Orleans will clean up after you once you leave, but only as a means of welcoming you back for future visits to this easy and carefree city.

AUSTRALIA | TASMANIA

Destination ➜ Tasmania, Australia

Pennicott Wilderness Journeys Are A Movable Feast

By Shane Boocock

www.letstravelmag.com

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Lunch Onboard

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ike a juicy, low hanging apple, this year Hobart is ripe for the picking. Lonely Planet has ranked Tasmania as one of the top five best regions to visit, in the whole world. Wild and dramatic, cultured and quirky, isolated and accessible, the world is gearing up and starting to check out the diversity of what the Hobart region is offering up in 2015, especially if you’re like me, you have a taste for outdoor adventures, so just jump onboard a Pennicott Journeys Tour, and prepare to be pampered.

Multi-award winning Pennicott Wilderness Journeys is Tasmania’s leading ecotourism operation founded by Robert Pennicott. Robert and his team of passionate local guides have been sharing Tasmania with Australian and overseas visitors, as well as business event travellers, since 1999.

Their award winning cruises begin on Hobart’s vibrant waterfront and no matter which one you choose, they’ll highlight spectacular scenery, wildlife, and of course the freshest of foods and local wines. The company offers five different tours: The Tasmanian Seafood Seduction, Iron Pot

Breathing Rock

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Bruny Cliffs

Cruise, Bruny Island Traveller, Bruny Island Cruise, and the Tasman Island Cruise.

The Tasmanian Seafood Seduction Tour is one that I spent a whole day on recently – the only one of its kind in the world – a seriously unforgettable day of indulgence and relaxation. As Robert Pennicott himself said, “Guests are taken down the Derwent River to Bruny Island to witness the pristine surroundings, while our staff collect oysters and mussels, pull up crayfish pots and dive off the boat for sea urchins and abalone for our guests to enjoy fresh on board – it’s a taste sensation like no other.

The important thing to mention here is that we are the only tour in the world that has the legal right to catch, and cook, crayfish and abalone on our boats. It took two years to secure our licence so this really is a very unique experience as our guests enjoy the taste of these beautiful sea creatures fresh ‘on’ the boat.”

It really is a sensational opportunity to see one of the crew don a wetsuit and bring back abalone and sea urchin – the quality is outstanding. Enjoy oysters shucked straight from the water, and watch your guide haul in a rock lobster pot. Then the crew turn the catch into a delicious seafood feast accompanied by local gourmet produce and Tasmanian wines, boutique beers, or ciders and juices.

The cruise is aboard one of their brand new custom-built vessels, featuring a spacious enclosed cabin and luxury leather seats. The trip leaves about 9:00 am and returns at 5:00 pm accompanied by two guides, with the boat holding 10 passengers.

The Iron Pot Cruise is a more leisurely two and a half hour cruise, exploring the renowned waterways that influence Hobart’s lifestyle. Visit Australia’s oldest lighthouse, circumnavigate Betsey Island and discover the city’s rich maritime past.

Cruising down the Derwent River you’ll pass historic Battery Point, now one of Tasmania’s premium residential addresses. You’ll see well-known landmarks like the iconic Wrest Point Casino and the Shot Tower. Further south, you’ll truly appreciate the scale of Mount Wellington as it towers over the city. Arrive at the Iron Pot, Australia’s oldest lighthouse, and be immersed in the fascinating history as your guide shares stories of Hobart’s early settlement.

Bruny Island Traveller is a day of discovery, exploring Bruny Island’s spectacular landscapes, history and gourmet local produce. Savour a delicious al fresco morning tea and a cellar door lunch of special local produce including cheese, oysters, salmon, wine, bread and berries – all grown, made or harvested on Bruny Island.

At The Neck, the narrow isthmus stretches away south in graceful curves. Enjoy short walks in the South Bruny National Park and watch white wallabies, native wildlife and birds in their natural habitat. Hear the stories of the people who have shaped Bruny Island, from the whalers who used to camp at Adventure Bay, to the lighthouse keepers and their families who braved difficult conditions to keep the light burning at Cape Bruny.

The climax of the day is the rare opportunity, exclusively for guests, to climb the spiral staircase inside the historic Cape Bruny Lighthouse and enjoy the magnificent panorama from the balcony. Guests travel in groups of up to 10, led by a local guide.

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Bruny Island Cruises offers guests a wilderness cruise exploring the islands and rugged coastline featuring some of Australia’s highest sea cliffs, beneath towering crags as you drift up close to listen to the awesome ‘Breathing Rock’. Enter deep-sea caves, pass through the narrow gap between the coast and ‘The Monument’ and feel the power of nature at the point where the Tasman Sea meets the might of the Southern Ocean.

The custom-built yellow boats are ideal for viewing the spectacular coastline and wildlife of Bruny Island. Each vessel holds a maximum of 43 guests. Covered open-air tiered seating means an excellent all-round view and connection with the environment.

The Tasman Island Cruise provides an unforgettable three-hour wilderness cruise along the spectacular coastline between Port Arthur and Eaglehawk Neck in Southern Tasmania. The cruise travels beneath the highest vertical sea cliffs in the Southern Hemisphere at Cape Pillar.

Guests can explore waterfalls, rock formations, archways and deep-sea caves. The coastline is part of the Tasman National Park and home to a variety of wildlife including hundreds of seals, migrating whales and abundant sea birds.

At any time of year, you’re likely to see the feeding frenzy of diving gannets, albatross and sea eagles wheeling on the wind, cliff-nesting cormorants and peregrine falcons, or a pod of playful dolphins surfing the bow wave of the boat.

Pennicott guides know these waters intimately.

They’ve grown up in this wilderness environment, with its picturesque landscapes and beautiful deserted beaches.

Throughout the day they’ll provide an entertaining insight into the surrounding landscapes and animals. Such local knowledge only comes from spending years in and around these clean, deep blue waters.

When asked what still motivates him, and why he’s so passionate about this part of Tasmania, Robert said, “It’s quite simple – there’s nowhere else in the world I’d rather

Seafood Seduction

facts: The author was hosted in Tasmania by Business Events Australia and Business Events Tasmania to showcase the cuisine and attractions that Tasmania offers both leisure and business event travellers.

Getting there: Air New Zealand fly daily to either Melbourne or Sydney. Their partner airline, Virgin Australia, offers onward flights to Hobart via both cities. There are also daily sailings of the twin ferries Spirit of Tasmania 1 and 2 each way between Melbourne and Devonport throughout the year.

Pennicott Journeys P: +61 3 6234 4270 ➜ www.pennicottjourneys.com.au

Tourism Australia ➜ www.australia.com

Business Events Australia ➜ www.australia.com/businessevents

Discover Tasmania ➜ www.discovertasmania.com.au

Business Events Tasmania ➜ www.businesseventstasmania.com.au

be; I get to showcase my home on a daily basis. Seeing others get as excited as I am about the amazing scenery, the abundance of wildlife, as well as the local food and drink is what motivates me every day. We’re providing an experience that people can’t get anywhere in the world and that’s a wonderful feeling.”

Discover endless fun at Hyatt Regency Huntington Beach Resort & Spa. Located just steps from the beach and minutes from the Disneyland ResortÂŽ and other area attractions, this resort is your vacation destination. Perfect for the whole family, enjoy our pools & waterslides, surf lessons, shopping, dining, live entertainment, a worldclass spa and more.

For reservations, visit huntingtonbeach.hyatt.com or call 714 698 1234.

Hyatt. You’re More Than Welcome.

HYATT REGENCY HUNTINGTON BEACH RESORT & SPA 21500 Pacific Coast Highway Huntington Beach, CA 92648

Destination ➜ California, U.S.A

U.S.A. | CALIFORNIA

Hyatt Regency Huntington Beach Resort and Spa

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iscover the ultimate Southern California oceanfront retreat, located in Orange County, between Los Angeles and San Diego in the legendary community known as “Surf City, USA”.

The Hyatt Regency Huntington Beach is easily accessible from three major airports and convenient to all of southern California’s main attractions. Overlooking miles of pristine beaches with spectacular views of the Pacific Ocean, this stylish resort is the area’s preferred vacation destination.

Whether you are looking for family fun or a romantic escape, you will discover countless ways to fill your days and nights at this inviting resort. Reminiscent of an Andalusian-style village with six picturesque courtyards and lush gardens, the resort features 517 elegant guest rooms and suites with private terraces.

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Explore a wide range of dining options, from elegant to casual to poolside, dining indoors or out, or in your guest room. Their latest renovation and re-conception, Watertable, has become Orange County’s most sophisticated fine dining restaurant. Launched in April 2014, the foodie community has fallen in love with this new hot spot. Recently named to Open Table’s Diner’s Choice Top 100 Restaurants in North America, their stunning new restaurant brings innovative contemporary American fare, capitalising on the region’s local produce. In addition to its regular dinner menu, Watertable is known for its Bar Jar concept, featuring house-made pates, cheeses and dips served in mason jars with its signature Epi bread. Also part of the mix is a distinguished selection of vintage California and world-class wines, artisanal cocktails and craft brews.

Don’t miss dinner on Watertable’s outdoor patio with expansive ocean views.

In addition to Watertable, there are several casual dining options. Pete’e Sunset Grille is located in the retail village where you can enjoy dishes from surf destinations around the world while surrounded by surf memorabilia and live music on their outdoor patio. The Red Chair Lounge is a sophisticated gathering spot – with specialty cocktails, wine/champagne and craft beer with live music on Fridays and Saturdays. Surf City Grocers is conveniently located within the resort, with a Starbuck’s coffee bar, grab and go breakfast and lunch items, snacks, soft drinks, wine and beer. You can also grab a take-out pizza from Tower 15 Pizzeria or dine outside. It also serves great salads, sandwiches and pasta. You do not even have to leave the

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pool area…enjoy casual dining and a full bar poolside at Mankota’s Grill and Shubee’s at Slyders.

Just 30 minutes to Disneyland, they offer a shuttle service twice daily all summer, included in the existing resort fee. For the ultimate shopping experience they have a VIP shuttle service to South Coast Plaza, also included in the resort fee. Shoppers will discover a luxury shopping experience with extraordinary boutiques, personal shopping services, and upscale amenities all within a short distance of the world’s most magnificent beaches and vacation resorts.

South Coast Plaza is recognised internationally for its unparallelled retail collection and award-winning restaurants.

Hyatt Regency Huntington Beach is located an hour from Los Angeles’ major attractions, Hollywood, Universal Studios and Beverly Hills. Huntington Beach offers laid-back and beach casual accommodations convenient to both L.A. and Anaheim.

For the beach lover, beach amenities program includes umbrellas, chairs and towels - available daily. Lunch can be ordered and delivered to you on the beach and they offer a full array of picnic lunches, including pizza.

Indulge in the Pacific Waters Spa, which features, 16-treatment rooms, full service spa, with men’s and women’s lounges with private whirlpools, waterfall showers and a beauty salon. Services include complete spa packages, like the Andalusian, which includes a 45-minute sea salt scrub and a 75-minute Andalusian mud wrap, followed by a 75-minute foot treatment. They also offer couples’ massages, which start with a 30-minute Pacific Waters soak with sea salts and oceanic aromas that combine to relax muscles and release tension, as well as soften the skin. Pacific Waters Spa has introduced several new targetted skin treatment therapies, including the Hydrafacial, a resurfacing procedure using extreme hydration and fusion of antioxidants, peptides and hyaluronic acid. It is a non-invasive process that delivers instant results with no discomfort or downtime and immediate effects.

facts: Hyatt Regency Huntington Beach 21500 Pacific Coast Highway Huntington Beach, California P: +1 714 698 1234 F: +1 714 845 4990 ➜ www.huntingtonbeach.hyatt.com

Also recommended for fast-acting, anti-aging therapy is the Dermabrite facial – designed to diminish the appearance of dark spots – allowing the skin to look visibly brighter, more uniform and luminous. Pacific Waters Spa also has a full-service salon with hair/makeup and nail services.

In addition, Hyatt Regency Huntington Beach has a 24-hour fitness centre, two pools, including Slyders Water Playground (cabanas for rent, three waterslides and a children’s wading pool). The Spa Grotto is made up of rocky outcrops and lush gardens creating a hidden retreat with three soothing spa pools in a secluded setting.

SAMOA, COME ON OVER. Discover the ‘beach fales’ which are idyllic beach huts often nestled right on the sands of the lagoon.

A bit like camping, but leave your tent at home.

These can cost as little as NZ$80 per couple, per day inclusive of breakfast and dinner. What are you waiting for New Zealand there’s no time like the present to plan your next vacation.

A Samoan holiday, what a present that would be...

HOLIDAY THE SAMOAN WAY. www.samoa.travel

PACIFIC ISLANDS | TAHITI

Destination ➜ Tahiti

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The Tuamotus Amazing white sand, beaches lined with coconut trees, crystal clear ocean that’s warm to the touch…the 76 islands and atolls within the Tuamotu archipelago are spread over an area of more than 20,000 km2 and where the myth of Robinson Crusoe can truly exist!

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iving up to their reputation, the Tuamotu islands are a must-see for keen divers. The atoll lagoons are a protected paradise where underwater life is spectacular. This area is also the cradle of the legendary Tahitian cultured pearl, grown with love, patience and respect, lying in a blue elegant oyster. Pearl farms lie on the Tuamotu lagoons in a weightless manner where the pearls source their unmatched colours and shades.

Some Tuamotu atolls are just endless white sandy beaches with a few acres of coconut plantations. Others, such as Rangiroa, the second largest atoll in the world, are much larger.

These mini paradise islands, dotted idyllically amidst the aqua blue ocean, are remote yet easy to reach via boat/ plane.

You will find family pensions/guest houses around most of the islands and the largest atolls host international resorts, all welcoming visitors from around the world.

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Rangiroa: Located an hour away from Tahiti, Rangiroa is a huge atoll – the largest in French Polynesia and the second largest atoll in the world. 240 motu circle the lagoon of an area of 1,640 km2. It is a natural aquarium, which Jacques Cousteau referred to as one of the most beautiful dive sites on Earth. It is a renowned divers’ paradise featuring different kinds of aquatic encounters and sheltering amazing marine life. Non-divers can also enjoy it as the crystal clear water ensures sightings of underwater ballets visible with the naked eye or while snorkelling. Rangiroa also hosts dream beaches with pale pink sand, which is as soft as the inside of a seashell. It is a lagoon within a lagoon…just like the islanders who live here, everything is suited for you to enjoy life on and under the water.

PACIFIC ISLANDS | TAHITI

Ahe: Located between Rangiroa and Manihi, Ahe atoll is a place for visitors on a quest for authenticity. This is one of the most dynamic atolls in terms of pearl farming as her lagoon is covered in picturesque farms. Go and visit a pearl farm and learn all the secrets of this amazing activity and the passion and the respect the islanders have for this heavenly but fragile environment. Extremely rare in the rest of the Tuamotu, you will see Pisonia grandis or puka tea or gatae, majestic trees whose spectacular shape matches no other! In the 1970’s the French navigator, Bernard Moitessier, chose to live with the local people and enjoyed this relaxed paumotu lifestyle. Ahe has become a mythical stop for sailboats arriving from the Marquesas. ➜ www.tahitinow.co.nz

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Tikehau: Located 300km from Tahiti and just 12km from Rangiroa, Tikehau and its lagoon look very similar to a natural outdoor swimming pool.

Within its waters, where fish are plentiful, the most amazing species will literally blow away snorkellers. In the air, admire the bird colonies where many species hold magical names such as red-footed boobies, greater crested terns, blue noddies, or lesser frigatebird.

Tuherahera is the only village around the atoll. Life is peaceful and follows the rhythms of fishing, copra and religious services. It is a fabulous opportunity to indulge oneself in the typical easy-going atmosphere of a Tuamotu atoll.

Destination ➜ India

The magic of Mother Ganga

ASIA | INDIA

Words and images by Liz light

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aranasi, older than legend, is in equal measure wonderful and weird. At dawn, just as the sun rises over the Ganges River, Varanasi is a surreal scene of medieval beauty. Honey-coloured stone palaces and temples mingle with others made of ochre-red rock. Pink water towers are painted with giant pictures of the god Shiva, and ancient ashrams are bright yellow and sometimes blue, with swathes of saffron sadhu’s clothes wafting from balconies. Giant orange Hindu flags, with the symbol of the sun in the middle, float on tall bamboo poles.

The city faces of the river, worships it, and spreads along its banks for three kilometres. Stone steps, the ghats, lead from these fanciful buildings down to the water.

At Dasaswamedh Ghat, Jaiprakash, my guide, makes a deal with a young man and his boat. He rows us gently along the river. The first sun is an auspicious time for bathing in this river, the Holy Mother Ganga, so there are

plenty of people out and about. Many bathe, up to their necks, some stand in serene silence, eyes closed with their faces glowing in the sun. Near-naked sadhus enjoy cups of chai, men read newspapers and women sit and read holy texts and other women wrap in wet, clinging saris and squeeze water from long hanks of black hair after their bathing. There are numerous gents wearing only old-fashioned, long-legged Y-front undies and others who are painted white wearing nothing but a tiny cloth around their genitals.

The sounds of the morning include a flute player with eyes closed, deeply involved with his musical moments and worshiping chanters. There is raucous hoots and ha-ha’s from a group of laughter-yoga participants and the laundry wallahs add a low rhythmical thud to the cacophony as they beat clothing on flat rocks placed at a perfect pitch to the river.

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There are herds of goats too, some of which are, because of the chilly nights, wearing cardigans; front legs through the sleeves and buttoned up under the brisket with their udders swinging behind. The cows mooch around on the steps close to the river foraging the shore for beached leaf-boats and flower petals while the goats seek high places.

The smoking ghats are most startling. These are the funeral areas which have an electric crematoriums burning bodies with industrial efficiency and, on the river edge, the traditional wood pyres are in various stages of burning.

20 DAYS DEPARTING 3 OCT 2015

INDIA & SRI LANKA A small group hosted journey

Join us on this cultural journey flying Singapore Airlines to colourful Rajasthan, the Taj Mahal at sunrise, and the sheer natural beauty of Sri Lanka.

0800 11 73 11

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From the boat it feels as if I am in as beautiful mythical movie but not quite part of it.

We walk back alleys, behind the river, and it seems time stopped somewhere in the Middle Ages as I squelch (the alleys are muddy after night rain) my way over ancient cobbled lanes just wide enough for two people to pass but too small for motor transport, or even bicycle rickshaws.

Cows barge past me, geese waddle about and goats know exactly where they’re heading.

Tucked into walls little shops are busy; yogurt is sold in clay bowls, a vendor sells nuts and another sweets. In a tiny take-away the proprietor sits cross- legged circled by pots, selling meals-to-go in plates made of leaves and, across the lane, a girl buys three little pieces of wood from the firewood seller, just enough to cook breakfast.

With a history dating back to 1400 BC Varanasi is one of the world’s oldest living cities. In the 8th century it became the heartland of the Hindu religion when Shankaracharya, a reforming Hindu sadhu, established Shiva worship as the principle sect. Varanasi has been destroyed and built again many times in the following centuries but Mother Ganga, the river, silent, tawny brown and omni-present always dominates.

It has been, and still is, the embodiment of Hindu heritage, culture and spiritualty. Hindus would love to die here - anyone who dies here attains instant enlightenment – and others are happy to be cremated here and have their ashes spread in the holy river.

The back alleys are fascinating but it’s on the ghats between the temples and the river that life and death plays out with a unique, weirdly beautiful, Varanai intensity. We walk along the steps. Old folk, waiting to die, live on charity in the hundreds of temples at the top of the ghats and some have hobbled down the steps to enjoy the sun; some beg with half-hearted, toothless smiles and others just sit and blissfully gaze at the river.

Music students practice the tabla, foreign students and locals joined in a frenzy of ecstatic drumming, and a toffee and nut-seller strolls along selling snacks from a large tray.

Children sell candles with marigolds and rose petals, in little round boats made from pressed leaves. The buyer lights the candle and sets it adrift while asking for god’s blessing.

On the wider steps herds of boys play cricket with an oblong chock of wood for a ball and a hand-cut bat.

“No, no,” they say as they hustle us down steps after we absentmindedly stroll onto their cricket pitch.

A herd of cows, big, black and glossy, are taken into the water and cleaned. A muscular man, also dark and glossy, pushes the great beasts around, scrubs them down with coconut fibre, dunks their heads under and wipes their faces clean. The food that keeps them fat is an invisible mystery.

facts: Getting there: Singapore Airlines flies from Auckland to Delhi every day. ➜ www.singaporeair.com

There are daily flights on numerous national airlines to and from Varanasi from Delhi.

Stay in Varanasi: Lots of options on ➜ www.makemytrip.com, India’s answer to ➜ www.bookings.com. Choose somewhere near the ghats. The five-star places are quite far from the old city centre.

Stay at Delhi Airport: Many flights to NZ and Australia leave early in the morning so better to stay the last night at Delhi airport. Hotel Ibis Delhi Airport has the best swimming pool and most comfortable beds in all India. Price reasonable. ➜ www.accorhotels.com

Organise it: Indian Legends Holidays, based in Delhi, found my excellent guide and beautifully organised my limited time in both Varanasi and Delhi.

ASIA | INDIA

➜ www.indianlegendsholidays.com

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Or Exotic Holidays can tailor-make a reasonablypriced India programme for you including flights to and from India and internal flights. Rahul, who owns the company, is a Kiwi. He knows what New Zealanders enjoy and is also widely networked in India. Contact: rahul@exotic.net.nz When: October through to March. The other six months of the year are too hot.

I watch as a cloth-wrapped male corpse, decorated with marigold garlands, is placed on a pile of carefully arranged and logs. His head is unshrouded, his grey hair is thick and trim and moustache is bushy. H is eyes are closed and he looks spookily serene.

Attendants light twigs in the middle of the pyre, smoke thickens and obscures the body, flames catch and brighten while the smoke eases. This man’s face appears in cameos between dancing flames.

Subdued, I notice that, in this surreal city, the devil is truly in the detail: the stink of urine as it trickles down the steps from impromptu men’s toilets in corners: the tragedy of leprous beggars whose fingers have dissolved: the snotty street kids who hassle for money and the rubbish mindlessly dropped before being busily swept into the holy, deeply polluted, river.

At dusk I attend arti the hour-long worship session at the river’s edge on Dasaswamedh Ghat. Bells chime and drums beat but the soloist, who also plays the harmonium, is the strong voiced and perfectly amplified leader. His voice scales from deeply rich to delicately high, his eyes are closed in devotion or concentration; I’m utterly seduced by his singing.

Arti culminates with five priests on plinths, performing a ceremony to the river, Mother Ganga, a living Goddess, circling flames in unison, from blazing oil lamps. The crowd joins the singing, eyes closed and rapturously swaying. It’s powerfully spiritual and visually beautiful. I feel blessed by the holy river and I walk away blissful and dazed. Varanasi is colour and life. Varanasi is the essence of India.

Extra room. Extra amenities.

EXTRA COMFORT

With our new Airbus A330 extra comfort economy seats, you get five or more inches of extra legroom, priority boarding, electrical power outlet, full inflight entertainment pack*, upgraded meal* and comfort kit*. Priority security line# and complimentary ‘Unlimited TV & More’ entertainment pack#.

Fly non-stop 3 times a week from Auckland to Hawai‘i and onward to 11 U.S. Cities, including New York, Las Vegas, Los Angeles & San Francisco.

Or transfer to your favourite Hawaiian Island on one of 170 flights daily.

For more information or to make a booking, visit us at www.HawaiianAirlines.co.nz, call us on 09 977 2227, or contact your preferred travel agent.

2 x 32kg baggage Complimentary allowance per beverages passenger

Hawaiian hospitality

*For international flights only. # For Domestic USA flights only.

Hawai‘i inspired meals

Entertainment, blanket & pillow

CRUISING | P & O CRUISES

Something for everyone with P&O

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o you crave a place where everything is at your fingertips and 9 to 5 is nowhere to be seen, where you can choose to be part of the action, or drift off on a deckchair? Well, get away from it all on board P&O Cruises’ Pacific Pearl, cruising from Auckland.

If you’re seeking paradise, there’s no better place to be than the Pacific Islands, and a P&O cruise is the best way to get there. From the Isle of Pines’ picture-perfect waters and the lush forests of Santo to Noumea’s French culinary offerings, you’ll feel a million miles away. In between islands, order a drink without leaving the pool thanks to Pacific Pearl’s exclusive Splash swim-up bar - one of nine bars on board. You can also kick back pub-style at The Orient and enjoy a selection of ciders and draught beer on tap.

Let our expert mixologists work their magic at MIX Cocktail Bar. Dance the night away in the Dome or enjoy a flutter at Players Bar & Casino.

If it’s comic relief you’re after, P&O’s Comedy cruises have something to make everyone crack a smile. Rub shoulders with headline comedians at the Comedy Wave

CRUISING | P & O CRUISES

Gala, pop in on a cheeky adults-only show in the Sit Down Comedy Club or take a comedy workshop. Food and wine more your game? Get your fill of both on board a Food & Wine cruise. Watch celebrity chefs perform live culinary demonstrations, learn from professional viticulturists and discover what makes cheese great at a master class. It’s all at your fingertips.

A P&O holiday is also the most enjoyable way to explore that big island next door, Australia - from one of the Seven Wonders of the World, the Great Barrier Reef to Western Australia’s famous stretch, Cable Beach.

Or explore your own backyard. Navigate The Bay of Islands and enjoy lunch in historic Russell and watch dolphins, whales and gannets at play past Tapeka Point.

Visit New Zealand’s largest remaining kauri tree, the 1,200-year-old Tane Mahuta or head off on a Hokianga Harbour and Kauri Forest Shore Tour. Art Deco capital of the world, Napier also offers world-class attractions, from Cape Kidnappers to award-winning vineyards and every outdoor adventure under the sun, from jet boating to hot air ballooning.

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CRUISING | P & O CRUISES

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No prizes for guessing New Zealand’s star attraction…

Fiordland National Park, and the best way to see it is from the water. Cruising into Milford Sound offers natural sights of such majesty that it’s bound to produce a chorus of ‘oohs’ and ‘aahs’ as you drift by soaring snow-capped peaks and tumbling waterfalls.

A P&O cruise is also a chance to scratch beneath the surface. Explore captivating Maori culture and visit the numerous museums and galleries that portray New Zealand’s fascinating history. Visit Auckland’s War Memorial Museum or any of the 50 picturesque islands in the Hauraki Gulf, discover the vibrant and colourful gardens of Christchurch or the colonial architecture of Akaroa.

Back on deck, why not check out Luna’s new Japanese menu? From mochi to macha to miso, each dish at the restaurant has been created with a devotion to the flavours, freshness, presentation and balance of gourmet Asian cuisine. Taste the delicate flavours in the Tataki-seared wagyu beef shavings in soy and honey marmalade, or share the pork belly and watermelon dish with hoisin and lime.

Tempted? Don’t be surprised. P&O Cruises is famous for its food. With a minimum of eight dining experiences on

board, P&O plates up everything from casual to connoisseur, everyday to gourmet…and it’s made fresh daily with locally sourced produce. There’s even celebrity chef restaurant Salt grill by Luke Mangan. Foodies, rejoice!

Even the fussiest eaters will find something they love.

P&O Cruises keeps the kids happy with a huge choice of menu options and specials which change daily. There are family platters at Waterfront Restaurant, and if it’s date night, there’s a kids-only dinner in Plantation Restaurant.

Fancy a show after dinner? Catch The Velvet Rope, choreographed by a leading Australian production company and a P&O Cruises exclusive. Or buckle up for our unforgettable viZion laser light show. Watch Pacific Cirque entertainers perform impressive acrobatics on the outdoor arena or in the Atrium. Don’t forget to breathe as you watch Pacific Cirque’s gravity-defying acrobatics.

And if you simply just want to unwind after a long day of lounging in the sun in the day spa or sink into the cushioned day beds of The Oasis, the child-free retreat and not lift a finger, you can do that to. On a P&O Cruises holiday, it’s all up to you. ➜ www.pocruises.co.nz

O & P G I B E TH

F F O E a TAEK z n a g a v xtra Napier

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1,049

INTERIOR

Was

$1,959

Now

$

1,749

~Fares shown based on 27 May 2015. ^Port order and/or itinerary varies.

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VISIT YOUR LOCAL TRAVEL AGENT

*Fares are cruise only, per person, in NZD, in complete quad or twin room as specified, based on lead categories at publication date (28 Jan 15), inclusive of all discounts, charges and taxes (which are subject to change). Supplements apply for other room categories. Comparison “WAS” fares for savings based on Pricebreaker fares launched into market from April 2013. A 1.5% surcharge applies to credit card payments for direct bookings made via our call centre and website. Travel agents may charge additional fees - check with your travel agent. Valid for new bookings and not combinable with any other offer. Offer ends 27 February 2015 unless sold out prior. Once this offer ends, fares may revert to a higher fare but also may be discounted. Offers subject to availability. Some oceanview rooms have obstructed views. ~Fare based on specified departure dates. Different fares apply to other dates listed. †For P&O SeaBreaks, if your cruise is unable to visit the destination on its itinerary because of an unforeseen circumstance such as weather, civil unrest or a mechanical issue, we will endeavour to visit an alternative destination deemed safe by the Captain. To be read in conjunction with the P&O Cruises Australia Booking and Passage Conditions available at www.pocruises.co.nz which passengers will be bound by. Whilst all information is correct at time of publication, offers are subject to change or withdrawal. Carnival plc trading as P&O Cruises. ABN 23 107 998 443.

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Destination ➜ Thailand

ASIA | THAILAND

Times a Changin’ on ol’ Koh Samui

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Nearby Mu Ko Ang Thong

Chaweng beach

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ike so many places in Southeast Asia, the old timers roll their eyes mystically and relive the times before the great tourism revolution at the end of the 20th century.

Their grey-flecked beards and sun-parched skin speak of a life spent under the tropical sun when life was simple and the beer was cheap(er).

Nowadays, the idyllic islands that dot the coast around the Gulf of Thailand are laden with modern ‘charms’ like multi-star resorts, paved roads, retail havens and bars and clubs aplenty.

Koh Samui is the poster child for resort island development in the region. These days the postcard primed, white sand beaches are lined with some of the best resorts

“If your kids are like mine and are budding junior zookeepers, it’s worth checking out some of the animal attractions.

There are in fact plenty of animal attractions on Koh Samui, as diverse as the animals they exhibit and include a butterfly garden, a crocodile farm, snake farm and monkey shows.”

Shalia, 21, from Sydney went to Koh Samui with university friends for a bit of beach R-n-R and some partying. She had a mixed experience.

“We stayed at the Ark Bar Beach Resort and it was fine.

Clean, comfortable, affordable and close to the action.

“The locals are great, so patient, but some of our fellow travellers from around the world must have left their manners at home. They left a lot of trash on the beach.

Bottles mainly and it really bothered me, almost as much as the captive animals.

“I loved the walks up to the waterfalls and swimming in the pools, but I can’t recommend the water slides. I think they’re dangerous, but the boys loved them and we all ended up bruised after a few slides.”

John Borthwick is another with a long memory and experience on Koh Samui going back decades. He has some advice for new visitors too.

ASIA | THAILAND

in all of Southeast Asia. With more than 18,000 rooms and occupancy rates close to 70 per cent being quoted, direct international flights have added tens of thousands of new visitors to the island annually.

Shopping malls and retail plazas, like the massive complex on 48,000 square metres of land in the tourism area of Chaweng are transforming Koh Samui from the semi-secret haven to a sprawling tourist metropolis.

According to a report in the Bangkok Post, a marked shift in demand is bringing more Asian visitors and families. The top three source markets are, according to the report, Germany, the UK and Thailand, which contributes more than a quarter of total arrivals…but here come the Russians, with 15 per cent of total visitor arrivals now from the Russian Federation.

Deb Dickson Smith is a specialist family travel writer from Australia. She travels with as many as five kids in tow.

“It’s an obvious choice for families really with a great choice of family-friendly resorts, friendly locals who welcome children and plenty of safe swimming beaches. In addition to obvious activities like swimming and snorkelling, kids can take part in anything from football and golf to elephant rides.

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Anantara Bophut Full Moon Restaurant

ASIA | THAILAND

Wat Laem Suwannaram

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Monkey Training School

“Arrange a hotel airport pick-up, and use the shuttle wherever possible because Samui’s taxis (“my-meter-notwork-today” … and every day) are pure banditry. Don’t start a taxi journey without agreeing on the price.

“Samui has one of the worst accident records in Thailand, in a country with accident stats are ten times that of Australia or New Zealand. If you rent a motorbike, jot your will, wear that helmet and have an Australian/NZ motorbike — not just car — licence (or else your insurance won’t cover you).

“Rent a car then head off on the good around-island road. Look for (slightly) off-the-beaten track, west coast beaches like Lipa No, Laem Nan or Natien. On in the north, try Bang Bor and Mae Nam.

“The Secret Garden, tucked away high in a mountain gorge, is a tranquil grove of Ramayana characters, dancers and concrete angels that was sculpted by a Samui native, Nim Tongsung who began his task at age 77 and worked until his death at 91. A labour of love in a place of peace!

“Skip the so-called “mummified monk” and “Buddha footprint”.

“Wander the gauntlet of Chaweng’s cheapo clothing stalls and boutiques, plus its beer bars, restaurants and cocktail lounges. Or head to Soi Green Mango, a full-tilt bar zone that specialises in loud music, cold beer, dancing and occasional mayhem. Bophut is the quiet alternative, with small, more stylish bars.

John, Deb and Shalia span the commonest demographics for Aussies and Kiwis heading to Koh Samui and Thailand. While each are deeply fond of The Land of Smiles, sensible precautions should be taken – just like a trip anywhere in our rapidly evolving world.

Thirty years ago, Koh Samui was a semi-mythical island known only to a few intrepid adventurers prepared to make the big effort to get there…seasoned traveller, Rob Woodburn, was one.

Back in the days before everything became Instawhat and Snapthat it took some time to make your way from Bangkok to the island of Koh Samui.

By 1983 the island already had the reputation of a quasi-mythical destination, but like the protagonists in Alex Garland’s The Beach (published 13 years later) it took a certain type of traveller to summon the effort to reach Koh Samui.

It took a long and stifling bus or train ride from the capital south to Surat Thani where we then made our way to the waterfront to lobby for a place on the overnight ferry.

“Our first tourists on Koh Samui had free accommodation,” the president of the island’s tourism association told me some years ago, adding that, “Visitors had to sleep at the temple because we had no hotel.” Those first visitors arrived 45 years ago. This formerly hotel-free zone now draws several million visitors a year.” – John Borthwick

facts: We gathered some of our old and new Thailand salts together for a chat about Koh Samui and how they remember it. Roderick Eime spoke to John Borthwick, Rob Woodburn, Deb Dickson-Smith and his own daughter Shalia about their own personal experiences on Koh Samui. ➜ www.tourismthailand.org

Koh Nang

Samui Beach

ASIA | THAILAND

the back of the trucks which then sped in convoy along the rough coastal road.

Fortune saw me dropped off at Chaweng, a glorious stretch of beach with scant guest accommodation. Best Beach Resort had 10 huts facing each other, five-a-side, over a path leading down to the sand. Everyone shared the one toilet and shower. Crude it was, but clean and comfortable - provided you’d thought to bring your own mosquito repellent, toilet paper and torch batteries. There was very little available to buy on the island and power only for a few hours a day.

Meals were cooked in a rudimentary kitchen set up in the nearby jungle, basically a hot wok and some seats.

Stir-fry was the order of the day, sometimes with noodles, occasionally with fresh fish but mostly fried rice. But who cared? We had Chaweng Beach practically to ourselves.

The only travellers I saw were those staying at the same place. Later I moved south a bit and scored a hut right on the point between Chaweng and Lamai with uninterrupted sea views. This was my private paradise for a while. I made one trip to Big Buddha but it seemed far too popular in comparison. Koh Samui, for me, will always be that solitary hut beside the black rocks on the Point.

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Places were limited and the ferry didn’t always run, so it was usually full. Piracy was a real threat but we lived in the optimistic hope that backpackers being such a scurvy lot, no decent brigands worth their salt would waste time on us.

The ferry was a creaky wooden vessel that sat low in the water and powered by a noisy, oily engine that thudded away all night and belched noxious black smoke. It had an enclosed upper deck transformed into one gigantic futon on which all foreign passengers sprawled for the night. Getting to know each other was easy.

In the early morning we arrived at Na Thon on the island’s west coast where small trucks painted in gaudy colours were parked nose to tail along the quay awaiting new arrivals. As soon as we set foot on dry land the touts’ chants erupted. “Anyone Big Buddha? “ “Come Chaweng, very good! “Lamai, Lamai, you love it sure!”

Few of us knew any real detail about these respective destinations. Amid the ruckus, we found ourselves piled into

Destination ➜ Gloucester, England

Gloucester

BEYOND | ENGLAND

Make the most of your West Country Rugby World Cup trip to Gloucester and take in the medieval history, glorious waterways and rolling landscapes.

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loucester (www.thecityofgloucester.co.uk), with its ornate cathedral, sits between the limestone villages of the Cotswolds and the River Severn.

It enjoys a rich nautical history with rejuvenated Victorian quays and serene canal that was once busy with cargo. You can follow in the footsteps of the city’s

most famous merchant resident, Dick Whittington, through medieval side streets and courtyards in the central Westgate Quarter.

Visit the neighbouring spa town of Cheltenham for its prestigious steeplechase meetings and grand Regency architecture.

Rugby World Cup 2015. England.

11 host cities, 48 matches, 20 nations, over 44 days.

September 18 - October 31, 2015

Visit England and be part of the game. www.VisitEngland.com/RugbyWorldcup

events Try to coincide your trip to Gloucester with one of these great events: Surfing on the Severn Bore tidal wave

Go shopping Bargains galore can be nabbed at Gloucester Quays (www.gloucesterquays.co.uk) outlet shopping mall, filled with popular clothing and homeware brands. Gloucester Quays Antiques Centre (www.gloucesterquays.co.uk/antiques-centre), located in a former Victorian warehouse, is a three-floor treasure trove with curio-like retro furniture, old jewellery and vintage clothes. Both outlets are open seven days a week.

www.severn-bore.co.uk

Underground Festival www.undergroundfestival.co.uk

The Times Cheltenham Literature Festival www.cheltenhamfestivals.com/literature

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Cheltenham Racecourse: The Showcase www.cheltenham.co.uk/fixtures/the-showcase

Heritage Open Days www.heritageopendays.org.uk

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Great for families An easy way to explore the city’s waterways, like the Gloucester-Sharpness Canal with its leafy towpaths and tiny bridgemen’s houses, is by hopping on a cruise boat at the Victorian docks. Tours take 45 minutes and leave from the Gloucester Waterways Museum (www.canalrivertrust.org. uk/gloucester-waterways-museum). Back on dry land, little cowboys can ride mini tractors and meet bison and deer in the ‘wild west’ at Cattle Country Adventure Park (www.cattlecountry.co.uk).

BEYOND | ENGLAND

Don’t miss Start your city pilgrimage at Gloucester Cathedral (www. gloucestercathedral.org.uk), and marvel at medieval stained glass windows, the Norman nave and gothic tower. Across from the cathedral at College Court, learn about famous literary resident Beatrix Potter at The House of the Tailor of Gloucester (www.tailor-of-gloucester.org.uk), a museum and shop in the house that inspired her story for her own favourite book The Tailor of Gloucester. Revisit the 1800’s at the Historic Docks (www.gloucesterquays.co.uk/ attractions) where merchants and sailors dropped anchor at the inland shipping port. Sporty types will enjoy a behindthe-scenes tour at the 16,500-capacity Kingsholm Stadium, home of Gloucester Rugby (www.gloucesterrugby.co.uk).

facts: Getting There and Around Air: The nearest major airports are Birmingham Airport (www.birminghamairport.co.uk) and Bristol Airport (www.bristolairport.co.uk).

Both are just one hour away by car. Scheduled flights serve the Isle of Man, Belfast and Jersey from Gloucestershire Airport (www.gloucestershireairport.co.uk), a 15-minute drive from the city centre.

Rail: Gloucester Station is two and a half hours from London Paddington Station.

Road: Gloucester can be accessed from junction 11, 11A and 12 of the M5.

Where to Stay Budget: Travel Lodge Gloucester Hotel

BEYOND | ENGLAND

www.travelodge.co.uk/hotels/395/ Gloucester-hotel

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Moderate: Hatton Court

Explore the area Motor between pastel-coloured stone villages and hamlets in the Cotswold hills surrounding neighbouring Cheltenham on the aptly named Romantic Road (www.visitcheltenham. com). Around the time of Rugby World Cup, those on the pulse will be able to experience a seasonal natural phenomenon. The Severn Bore (www.severn-bore.co.uk) is a huge tidal wave that surges along the nearby Severn Estuary during the autumn equinox.

www.hatton-court.co.uk

Luxury: The Greenway Hotel and Spa www.thegreenwayhotelandspa.com

Accessible: Hallmark Hotels Gloucester www.hallmarkhotels.co.uk/our_hotels/gloucester

Where to eat Budget: Lily’s Restaurant and Tearoom www.lilysrestaurant.co.uk

Moderate: Café Rene www.caferene.co.uk The Wharf House www.thewharfhouse.co.uk Accessible: Prezzo www.prezzorestaurants.co.uk/restaurant/ gloucester

Get active There’s no need to wait for winter ski trips when you can hit the slopes at Gloucester Ski and Snowboard Centre (www. gloucesterski.com). All abilities are catered for, with ski lessons on request. For an indoor activity for all the family there’s rock climbing at the Warehouse Climbing Centre (www.the-warehouse.co.uk). To experience Land Rover’s legendary all-terrain expertise in safe, thrilling and true-to-life driving adventures you can visit Land Rover Experience Eastnor (www.eastnor.landroverexperience.co.uk). ➜ www.visitengland.com

did you know?

John Stafford Smith, who composed America’s national anthem, The Star Spangled Banner, was born in Gloucester in March 1750.

REGULAR | INDUSTRY TRAVELLER

Industry Traveller Name: Tony Smith For my sins I am: Managing Director Francis Travel Marketing How old were you when you got your first passport, and where did you travel to in order to “break it in”?

I was 21 or 22 and not sure. Had travelled many times before without a passport when in RNZN How many countries have you travelled to? Very few I haven’t travelled to

My favourite local destination is … and why? Wellington.

Enjoy the waterfront and the variety of restaurants. Plenty of Touristy things to do as well no matter what the weather My favourite dining experience (anywhere in the world) is: Home. With all the travelling I do I really enjoy the meals prepared by my wife

At Soldier Field, Chicago

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My favourite kind of holiday is (beach, adventure, shopping etc): Beach, but has to involve some fishing What’s the one thing you can’t/won’t travel without? My Phone - it is my lifeline What’s your best packing tip? Think about what you are going to need. Too often over packing is a nightmare What’s your best travel tip? Rest up when travelling - the other side will be hectic Do you dress comfortably or stylishly for long-haul trips? Very comfortably If WE were paying, tell us about your perfect holiday: Exotic Beach where one can fish, swim or just lie in the sun reading a book What’s your best travel memory? Taking my two sons to Europe for a GSA meeting. 3 weeks of fun and laughter and they still remember it Anything “hilarious” ever happened to you while travelling? Yes - not knowing that river ships tie up to each other, worth shouting me a drink to find the full story Where to next? Heading to Broome for a conference and looking forward to seeing the area as well of hopefully catching the Staircase to the Moon.

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My favourite offshore destination is…and why?

Antarctica. Just the quietness and the beautiful scenery along with the wildlife makes it a pleasant destination

REGULAR | GIVEAWAYS

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Which Way is Starboard Again,

by Anna Kirtlan, is a captivating yachting tale that’s not all plain sailing – it’s a travel story with an unusual twist. A humorous story of love, travel and overcoming the odds of dealing with OCD as well as anxiety and panick attacks while learning to sail and navigate, operate a radio and be up to speed with maritime safety procedures on a Pacific voyage. www.batemanpublishing.co.nz GIVEAWAY: Three lucky readers can each win a copy of Anna’s book. Simply email your details to Starboard@ letstravelmag.com by 10 May 2015 to be in the draw.

Maraca 200g natural wax scented candles are hand-poured right here in NZ – a range of gorgeous fragrances. www.maracanewzealand.com GIVEAWAY: We have one Velvet Noir candle to give away that boasts top notes of Indian Pepper, a heart of Egyptian Jasmine, Amyris and Texas Cedarwood, while the base is a heady mix of Haiti Vetiver, Ambrette seeds and white musk.

As the market leader in producing cutting-edge enzyme formulas, Enzymedica’s Enzyme Nutrition™ Two Daily Multi-Vitamin is a comprehensive multivitamin that offers high potency enzymes and probiotics alongside compound-rich botanicals with nutrient-dense whole foods. Containing Enzyme Activated Nutrients (EAN) from natural food sources, you can feel rest assured that this multi will meet the needs of every member of your family aged 14+. www.naturalmeds.co.nz

Developed in association with leading experts at the Skin Institute, Cherry Black Facial Sunscreen (SPF30) contains three natural ingredients – zinc oxide acts as an invisible barrier for UVA and UVB, cherry plant extract to support restoration, and vitamin B to help reduce fine lines and age spots. www.shop.skininstitute.co.nz/products/cherry-black

Mr Beak’s Beef & Cheese Burger patties, Beef & Cheese Slider patties and Beef Burger with Pale Ale will have you firing up the barbecue far more often than you’d planned! Made in NZ with local meat and ingredients, they’re packed with flavour, have no artificial colourings or flavours, and no MSG. Quick, convenient and tasty! www.facebook.com/mrbeaknz

REGULAR | GIVEAWAYS

Whether you’re a busy parent wrangling children, training for an endurance event, a frequent traveller, or a dedicated fitness and gym enthusiast, attention to hydration is important. With an extensive product range to fight dehydration, Hydralyte appeals to all regardless of age or sporting prowess. From Hydralyte electrolyte ice blocks perfect for toddlers and children with vomiting and diarrhoea symptoms, to Hydralyte effervescent tablets that are highly portable for the Kiwi athlete and travellers, there is a product ideal for every Kiwi and situation. www.hydralyte.co.nz

Antipodes is now the official inflight skincare choice of Air New Zealand on long-haul flights, selected for their rich hydrating properties and unique NZ ingredients. www.antipodesnature.com Blackmores Sleep Sound Formula™ has been designed specifically to support restful, restorative and quality sleep - naturally healthy and sound sleep so you wake refreshed. www.blackmoresnz.co.nz

GIVEAWAY: We are offering FOUR readers the opportunity to try Worship Superfruit Antioxidant Serum. Featuring raw antioxidant extracts from the NZ grown superfruit complex Vinanza Oxifend Plus® with boysenberry, blackcurrant, kiwifruit, and Vinanza Grape® from grape seeds, as well as coffee berry and açaí.

Email: antipodes@letstravelmag.com with your details by no later than 10 May 2015.

Good Health harnesses the power of turmeric with its latest release, Turmeric 15800 Complex to help support digestive and liver function, cardiovascular and cholesterol health, tired and stiff joints, a healthy nervous system and overall health and wellbeing. www.goodhealth.co.nz

Kiwi natural health company Good Health have recently released Sugar Stop, which uses the powerful properties of White Mulberry Leaf and Chromium to help balance sugar cravings and support healthy blood sugar levels.

The addition of Chromium also helps to curb cravings. www.goodhealth.co.nz

To enter simply email the product as the subject line with your name and contact details to giveaways@letstravelmag.com.

If you prefer post, pop your details and the product name onto an envelope or the back of a postcard (hopefully from a wonderfully scenic location somewhere in the Pacific) and send it to: Giveaways, PO Box 55-199, Eastridge 1146.

Entries must be received by no later than 10 May 2015.

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Destination ➜ Fiji

PACIFIC ISLANDS | FIJI

Vomo Island Resort

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omo does family friendly like no other Fijian resort. Vomo is a luxury, 5-star, island resort that welcomes families of all ages, honeymooners, multi-generation parties and destination weddings, just 15 minutes by helicopter from Nadi Airport.

Discover a paradise bordered by white sands, coral reefs, snorkelling, deep-sea fishing, scuba diving or glass-bottom boat expeditions and fantastic kayaking. And there’s weekly Meke dances, lovo feasting, kava ceremonies, a gym, 9 hole golf course, badminton, tennis, croquet, petanque, hiking and jogging tracks, plus a luxurious new Vomo day spa, the new Ocean Play professional PADI centre and their dedicated 5 Star Kids Village. The Reef Restaurant serves locally caught fish and produce from the resorts own gardens, with an excellent wine cellar.

28 luxurious air-conditioned villas with your choice of beachfront or hillside with views over the ocean! Plus the Royal Villa has three ensuite bedrooms and a private pool; the Residence Villa even greater indulgence with four ensuite bedrooms, a private pool and butler service.

For true lovers of luxury travel, no holiday would be complete without a visit to their newly opened Vomo Spa managed by Senikai. Be ready to pamper yourself from head to toe when you next visit Vomo. Featuring exclusive treatments such as the ‘Hot Nautilus Shell Massage’ and ‘KidZpa’ menu for our little prince and princesses!

To complete the experience, Vomo now offers a range of unique dining experiences around the island. Curated by the

resort’s “Indulge Manager”, Amit and his team, you can enjoy an exclusive dinner by the sea at sunset, with your own private chef and butler taking care of every aspect, while you sit back and enjoy the view. Romantic dinner with sand between toes, gourmet picnic at the tranquil Mamanuca Beach, swim and dine at The Rocks Bar with a private BBQ lunch, and not to mention the ever-popular Vomo LaiLai picnic.

From the absolute novice for the little Vomo guest ‘Bubble Blowing Course’ to PADI specialty courses of ‘Professional Dive Instructor’, ‘Rescue Diver’ and ‘Underwater Photography Course’ certification, Vomo Island’s new Ocean Play centre is the latest adrenalin offer, providing expert tuition in every level of professional dive proficiency – and all on island.

Vomo Island Resort welcomes families of all ages all year round and does family friendly like no other Fijian resort.

Young guests will enjoy the purpose built ‘Kids’ Village’. With separate craft centre, play room of toys and dress up gear, media room with comfy bean bags to watch your favourite DVDs and outdoor climbing frame and slide, children from 4 years will be kept happily occupied throughout the day and evening. Chef Erwin has created a tasty, health conscious menu that will satisfy the fussiest of eaters and keep mum and dad happy. Each evening the Kids’ Village dining room is set up for dinner, giving parents time to enjoy sunset cocktails at The Rocks Bar and sumptuous dining at Reef Restaurant or under a canopy of stars. ➜ www.vomofiji.com

Destination ➜ Fiji

PACIFIC ISLANDS | FIJI

Fiji’s ultimate luxury escape

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H

eralding a new era for Fiji tourism and taking the destination’s luxury resort offering to levels previously unseen, Nanuku Auberge Resort Fiji officially opened its doors just last year and the international travel scene has been quick to take notice.

Located on the magnificent Pacific Coast of Fiji’s ‘big island’ of Viti Levu, Nanuku Auberge Resort Fiji is the first all-villa boutique resort to be built on the main island and the concept has proved an immediate winner.

Set in lush tropical gardens fronting pristine Beqa Lagoon on one of Viti Levu’s best sand beaches, the new resort’s design delivers what General Manager, Karen Taylor, says “melds contemporary luxury with traditional Fijian design.”

Taylor knows her stuff – her very impressive track record includes management of another of Fiji’s best known luxury hotspots - Jean-Michel Cousteau Fiji Islands Resort on Savusavu – but all of her experience to date has been combined and condensed to deliver what many in international tourism circles have described as the catalyst and vision for the future of Fijian tourism – and that place is Nanuku Auberge Resort Fiji.

A big call perhaps but certainly this resort has, in its first few months of operation, delivered. The resort offers its guests a two-tiered choice of accommodation - the Vunikau Residence perched on a volcanic outcrop overlooking the lagoon and five striking Beachfront Residences.

All residences have been designed with huge air-conditioned living and entertaining areas, luxurious ensuites complete with spa baths, private yoga bures, plunge pools, media rooms, expansive decks and outdoor living rooms, private landscaped gardens and daybeds The resort has also placed heavy emphasis on its service delivery with personal butlers, chefs and private nannies on call to cater to every client need.

And, building on Fiji’s ever-growing reputation as the culinary capital of the South Pacific, the resort’s all-inclusive fine dining offering will focus on locally grown organic garden produce, the freshest of local seafood and the finest imported meats, all creating what Taylor describes as a “fabulous fusion of international and Fijian dishes.”

Personalised dining experiences can also be arranged in Kanavata Bar & Restaurant at the resort’s Club House,

in-villa or in a variety of locations including the resort’s own private island.

The resort’s dedicated spa, ‘Lomana Spa & Wellness’ provides guests with access to a full range of spa treatments while yoga teachers and a personal trainer are also on hand.

Nanuku Auberge Resort Fiji is also ideally positioned as a perfect alternative for couples seeking to marry in Fiji, is an ideal romantic venue for honeymooners.

But families too are well catered for with the resort’s ‘Lailai’ Children’s Club combining good old-fashioned fun with a special environmental and cultural learning program.

Safari adventures above and below the sea ensure older children and teenagers can also enjoy an age-appropriate fun and very active holiday.

And what to do on the outside? Step out of the front door and you’ll find yourself in the heart of the Pacific Coast, aka ‘Fiji’s Adventure Capital’ presenting you with access to myriad activities ranging from golf, zip lining, surfing and diving not forgetting the wonderful ‘living culture that embodies the very essence of all things Fijian – the fabulous ‘Bula Spirit’.

Nanuku Auberge Resort Fiji 11 Nanuku Drive, Pacific Harbour, Viti Levu, P: + 679 345 2100 E: reservations@nanukufiji.com ➜ www.nanukufiji.com

PACIFIC ISLANDS | FIJI

The essence of Fiji

Lot 1, Nasau, Backroad, Nadi (Next to Total Service Station) 5 minutes drive from Nadi Airport P: + 679 6725 280 E: reservations@rejuvenationcentre.com.fj ➜ www.rejuvenationcentrefiji.com

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scape and relax at The Essence of Fiji Rejuvenation Center. A truly memorable stop over on your Fiji Island holiday. A Rejuvenation center that allows you time to unwind, be pampered and indulge in the most tranquil transit lounge surroundings.

Spa foot rituals, healthy local snacks and refreshments with scenic views capturing Fiji’s Sabeto mountains. Their exclusive Nama Bar offers a selection of canapés & shots topped with Fiji’s delicacy ‘Nama’ sea grapes. Total indulgence massage therapy with the ambience of an indoor waterfall feature, a gym, day spa, barber and hair salon all for your therapeutic needs.

Not to forget retail therapy, at their Fiji made factory outlet, for all natural face and body care products, along with other Fiji made Spa affiliated tokens and gifts. There is a shuttle service to and from the airport, facility showers, lockers and luggage storage all for your convenience to ensure a stress free holiday. Timeout for all with a kidz center, nanny service, play area and snacks, all things considered for a well-deserved break.

Rise Beyond the Reef

PACIFIC ISLANDS | FIJI

Bridging the divide to sustainable and permanent change

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hat’s unique about many South Pacific islands is how close together luxury and poverty are situated. The divide between rich and poor is never truly bridged by the private sector or government.

Impoverished villages sit next to five-star hotels and there is no formal system for addressing the imbalance of resources.

Although some businesses attempt to support nearby villages, funding is directed towards specific projects that often fail to create systemic change.

In these tourist/business help models data and input from all stakeholders of a community are usually not at the helm of the project. This has often led to the classic community hall building, which goes unused while the larger needs are left unmet.

Government resources are spread thin and there is no coordinated effort that harnesses the potential of incoming visitors to benefit not only the vacationer, but also communities who live there. This is where we see we can help. There is an opportunity for sustainable growth to take place where government and private sector involvement can be carefully guided to support and empower remote communities.

Rise Beyond the Reef has three program areas seeking to address this disconnection: • Traditional Contemporary Arts & Crafts Income Generating Program to increase economic development opportunities for women while promoting traditional skills and learning new ones.

• Educational Infrastructure to increase access to relevant education that integrates traditional knowledge, promotes sustainable agriculture, resource management and livelihood opportunities.

• Access to Continued Learning, linking communities to training opportunities to increase capacity to improve their lives. The communities themselves through a comprehensive baseline process identify these training topics.

We believe many tourists want to understand and support the communities they know and love in Fiji. We seek to support you in that effort - knowing that your time and resources are most valuable when targetting a genuine need or vetted project.

Join us and take the first step by visiting www.risebeyondthereef.org to learn more.

PACIFIC ISLANDS | FIJI

Zip Fiji (Nadi)

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ip Fiji’s newest zip line, only 35 minutes from Nadi, is an amazing adventure with 5km of zip lines woven into a truly spectacular setting of incredible caves, canyons and breath taking ocean views. Their highly-trained guides help you use special equipment and techniques to experience 16 jaw-dropping zip lines. This amazing adventure lets you fly higher, faster and longer than ever before on this World Class Zip Line.

Location: The Cave and Canyon Zipline Adventure Tour is located next to the Tau Village, Momi Bay which is about 35 minutes from Downtown Nadi. (Zip Fiji have another zip lining course at Pacific Harbour) Tour Schedule: They have two scheduled daily tours at 9:00am and 2:00pm. The tour lasts about three hours, depending on the size and needs of the group.

The tour operates in all weather conditions except when there is lightning overhead, high winds or especially-heavy rain. Usually, they only wait a short time until conditions improve; however if they are unable to do the tour within a reasonable time, they will reschedule you for a later time.

Transportation to the Tour: Zip Fiji offers free transportation from all hotels in the Nadi Area and also from the Intercontinental and the Shangri-La Resorts.

If you prefer to use your own transportation, please ask reservations for driving instructions. If you’re using your own transportation, plan to arrive at the site at least fifteen minutes prior to the start time.

What to Wear and Bring: Wear comfortable clothing you don’t mind getting a little dirty or wet and that will not interfere with the adjustment of the harness or helmet.

Most guests do the tour in shorts, T-shirt and running shoes; skirts, dresses and bathing suits are not appropriate.

Closed-toe sport shoes provide the best protection for your feet however strap-on sandals are acceptable; you may not do the tour in bare feet.

Bring your camera, bottled water and insect repellent with you to the tour site. As it rains periodically throughout the day, you may want to bring a lightweight poncho or

jacket or a change of clothing. Please bring a hair tie if you have long hair.

Zip Fiji don’t recommend that you take your belongings with you on the elements since they can interfere with the equipment and you risk losing them, so they have a storage area for small items at the tour site. Nevertheless you may if you wish carry a small shoulder bag, backpack or fanny pack with you provided you understand that anything you take must be carried by you throughout the entire tour in a way that leaves both hands free.

Zip Fiji P: + 679 930 0545 E: zip@zip-fiji.com ➜ www.zip-fiji.com

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South Australia Tourism

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Riding the Outback Rails Words and images by Shane Boocock

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have to admit I never owned a model train set when I was a kid because the local train station above the coal bunkers was where we could see belching, noisy steam trains passing through our town – with full sized engines and carriages in close proximity. There didn’t seem a need to own a miniature version – but how I loved those days of steam.

The lyrics, “Third box car midnight train,” were ringing in my head as I stepped from the heat levitating off the concrete platform into an air-conditioned Gold Class carriage in Darwin. The Ghan, I thought stoically, is a long way from the lyrics of Roger Miller’s King of the Road song from 1964.

In my carriage, Lauren, our Hospitality Host, explained how things worked in our private compartments which had twin bunks and private en-suites with a shower, toilet and vanity as well as how the pre-determined meal times could be adjusted if they didn’t suit. With that in mind, I headed to the Explorer Lounge, the train’s social hub where much of The Ghan experience comes together, a place where guests can order coffee, beer, wine or soft drinks.

The town of Katherine and nearby adventure territory of Nitmiluk (meaning cicada + river) Gorge is situated about 320 km southeast of Darwin. It was our first stop on The Ghan and as Wendy, our coach driver into town, delightfully explained, “It’s the only town between Darwin and Alice Springs that has traffic lights, and they’re always damn red.”

The region is famous for the 292,000-hectare Nitmiluk National Park. The traditional land of the Jawoyn people, Nitmiluk Gorge comprises a series of 13 sandstone gorges carved out over 23 million years by the Katherine River.

The majority of train passengers took the leisurely Double Gorge Boat Tour cruising down the Katherine River where the large rock formations of the gorge tower over the calm waters. The sheer walls of the gorge are inhospitable, etched by time and elements, are home to ancient indigenous rock art dating back 40,000 years, as well as a

myriad plant and animal life, not that I saw any animals, but many are unique to this region.

Dining in the Queen Adelaide Restaurant on board The Ghan is a sumptuous affair, as the cuisine is finely tuned and prepared on board by a full complement of chefs who seem to prepare amazing three-course meals while the train is rolling on the rails. The dining carriage is also a great way to meet fellow travellers, especially if you’re travelling as a couple as seating is always at a table for four, which Jos, the Hospitality Manager handled with aplomb.

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Katherine River Gorge

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Anzac Hill

For example I met Phil and Maggie from Adelaide over lunch and dinner one evening was with Neil and Maxine from Sydney. On the last day I had brunch with Colin and Sheila from Leeds, but one dinner in particular stood out… an entrée of prawn and crab dumplings in a seafood broth, followed by a roasted kangaroo filet steak and crocodile boudin blanc with quangdong jus. Dessert was a divine wattleseed and meringue rotolo.

It was about 6:30 am in the Northern Territory as the sun broke over the horizon, yet outside there was no red centre, as everywhere was lush and green with scrub brush and trees, with only the spires of bright ember-red termite hills breaking the earth’s surface. About two weeks earlier this region had experienced torrential rains, where in the town of Katherine the normally dried-up Todd River bed had to be sandbagged to stop the town centre from flooding.

An hour later and the trees had all but disappeared with the flatness only broken on the horizon by a small but long hill. Just before 9:00 am we duly arrived in ‘a town called Alice’…better known as Alice Springs.

The previous night had not been what I would call the easiest place to get a good night’s shut-eye as sleeping soundly at 85 km an hour on a shuddering train is bound to be slightly uncomfortable. It’s not in an old-fashioned clicker-clacker sort of way but more of a rumbling that reminded me of the winding down spin of a washing machine. It’s rhythmic at times but then at other times small tremors radiated through the carriage as the speed of the train changed, so that waking up was inevitable, or maybe I’m just a light sleeper.

I had images of the outback township of Alice Springs being dusty with old wooden veranda clad buildings and a few horses tied to hitching rails in front of ‘Crocodile Dundee’ like pubs. It was anything but in this township with a population of about 25,000 inhabitants. Many people were driving shiny, new four-wheel drive vehicles on paved roads past new and used car dealerships, motels, hotels, supermarkets and even a Kmart store and a Red Rooster restaurant. The only other thing that stood out were the ubiquitous local Aborigines sitting under big trees in the shade in 35-degree heat, a sight you see in most townships throughout the Northern Territory, and it was no different here. The town was indeed a far cry from the epic novel, A Town Like Alice, written in 1950 by Nevil Shute.

Tessa was a barmaid in the Todd Tavern and she was forthcoming in explaining why there was a big bouncer on the front door when they opened at 10:30 am. “It’s to stop some of the regulars sitting under the trees across the street from entering, as many are still drunk from a full day or two of drinking, others have dirty attire and need to clean up before they enter – it just makes life easier for us – it also stops them from ‘humbugging’ other customers,” she added. The term refers to asking other patrons to buy them drinks or requesting money to do so. “We only serve low alcohol beer from 10:30 am until 11:30 am and then ‘heavy beer time’ starts,” Tessa said, pointing to the draft beer pumps and all the spirits at the back of the bar, a reference to all the stronger alcoholic drinks.

While I was in the pub talking to Tessa, many of the train passengers opted to take excursions around Alice Springs such as visiting the Royal Flying Doctor Base

By the numbers: • 2,927 km from Adelaide to Darwin or vice versa on each trip • 369,396 km from Adelaide and Darwin a year (about nine times around the world) • 85 km/hour is the train’s average speed • 30 crew members on board • 20 Platinum Service beds, 192 Gold Service beds, 50-100 Red Service seats • 30 carriages including guest carriages, crew quarters, dining cars, restaurants/lounges • 774 metres is the train’s average length • 60 percent of The Ghan route has 3G mobile phone coverage

Hilton Darwin P: +61 8 8982 0000 ➜ www.hilton.com

Great Southern Rail P: +61 8 8213 4401 ➜ www.greatsouthernrail.com.au Crowne Plaza Adelaide P: +61 8 8206 8888 ➜ www.adelaide.crowneplaza.com Air New Zealand fly from Auckland to Brisbane and Adelaide to Auckland: ➜ www.airnewzealand.co.nz Qantas fly to Darwin from a number of Australian cities: ➜ www.qantas.com.au

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facts:

Create your perfect South Australia holiday wish list at ➜ www.southaustralia.co.nz

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➜ www.railplus.co.nz

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and the National Pioneer Women’s Hall of Fame. Another highlight is to stop by the historic Alice Springs Telegraph Station, which was the first European settlement, a place that played a pivotal role in ensuring the isolation and communications gap between remote Australian outback towns was linked. Before the heat of the day set in I walked up the path to the top of Anzac Hill and the reward for my stamina was a 360-degree panoramic view of the sprawling township.

It’s hard to believe but the only animals I saw on the whole trip were horses, cows and a few sheep…no wallabies, kangaroos nor camels! Camels were brought to Australia in the 1830’s as the newly settled South Australian colony pushed northwards to explore the harsh inland regions of Australia. The camels were used to ferry explorers and their heavy equipment on their dangerous treks, as they were perfectly suited to the harsh environments and required little water.

Along with the camels came their handlers – ‘cameleers’ who largely migrated from what is now part of Pakistan, but according to Australian outback lore, these men were believed to come from a mysterious region of Afghanistan and were, as such, considered Afghans – hence their name Ghans. On the inaugural train journey from Adelaide to Alice Springs in August 1929, legend has it that the train was named after these cameleers, and the legend that is The Ghan was born.

Crossing the heart of Australia is full of surprises, not the least of which is how exceptionally high the service standards of The Ghan crew were – it made riding the outback rails all the more special and entertaining – and not to exaggerate but it’s a once in a lifetime train journey that truly stacks up with some of the best in the world.

Destination ➜ Victoria, Australia

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Heaven is a place on earth

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The Goulburn River Valley Region, in the heart of Victoria, is famous for its scenic beauty, which is characterised by rolling hills, lush forests, majestic rivers and lakes, rural plains and the mighty Goulburn River – the lifeblood of the region – making it a hugely popular lifestyle and holiday destination.

Travel the Trawool Valley, be amazed at the beauty of the Valley of a Thousand Hills, taste their award-winning wines and gourmet produce or have a mountain of fun in the snow! There’s an amazing array of things to do. You can even visit the childhood home of notorious bushranger Ned Kelly and learn about his life along the Ned Kelly Trail.

If you’re yearning to get back to nature try paddling along the mighty Goulburn on a canoe safari, go bushwalking and hiking in spectacular forests, cycle along the Goulburn River High Country Rail Trail and see an abundance of native wildlife in and around wetlands and National Parks.

The region is home to award-winning wineries and the fertile soils grow some of the best produce in the world – you can taste at the source or at one of the many superb dining locations. The region offers everything from historic country pubs and picturesque vineyard settings to classy restaurants and romantic hideaways.

Greater Shepparton is at the heart of the Goulburn River Valley and is a vibrant and progressive city surrounded by thriving smaller communities, where locals invite you to experience a taste of the good life.

Shepparton is a two hour drive from Melbourne airport.

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estled in rural surrounds, east of Shepparton, in Victoria’s Goulburn River Valley you will find a little piece of paradise, which has the power to charm its visitors into a relaxed, peaceful state.

The Churches, a beautifully renovated century old church and gardens, has welcomed thousands of guests over the past eight years, many of whom return time and time again to enjoy this beautiful and unique property.

The quality four-star self-contained accommodation is a fusion of history and contemporary comforts designed to delight the most discerning visitor.

Transformed into a stylish three-bedroom holiday home The Churches is ready to cater for your family getaway, romantic weekend retreat or a fun-filled holiday with friends.

There are packages to cater for the family looking for a home away from home through to brides and grooms who enjoy the peace and quiet in private luxury.

The open plan light-filled lounge features high ceilings, a wonderfully cosy couch and large TV while a second sitting area with leather couches and TV gives everyone the chance to relax. The spacious kitchen is fully self-contained, perfect for self-catering with oven, microwave and dishwasher.

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The gorgeous eating area is the perfect place for a long, lazy breakfast and dinners with views to the west to watch the sunset. Breakfast baskets can be organised at time of booking.

The mezzanine master queen bedroom has its own ensuite, a second queen room and a twin single room downstairs shares the main bathroom giving plenty of flexibility for couples and groups of up to six people.

The gardens and courtyard offer plenty of picturesque space to enjoy a glass of wine or a coffee in the morning with tables and chairs dotted around so you can enjoy the vista. There is an outdoor barbecue area and a small children’s playground for families to enjoy. The privacy of the property and onsite parking means you do not have to leave if it is down time you are looking for.

Your host is the inimitable Cheryl Hammer, who has spent the past eight years perfecting what makes a memorable stay at The Churches and will make sure your time at this gorgeous property is a highlight of your visit to

Shepparton. Information on the local area and attractions is available at The Churches if you are keen to explore the region. Guests will receive a voucher from a recommended local eatery and local wine and produce platters can be organised for your enjoyment.

facts: Here is what some of their guests have had to say: “Churches” is a fantastic blend of old and new, and welcomes you like an old friend. We shall be back! – Sue and Steve, Sandringham A beautiful spot, only wish we could stay longer and invite friends - Mikey and Kashia, Melbourne The place is just beautiful. We will be recommending to other people. 5 stars – Mr and Mrs Kilroy.

We will definitely be spreading your hidden little secret to friends and family. Cheers - Bruce and Judy, Victoria. ➜ www.thechurches.com.au

TAXI PRICE - CHAUFFEUR SERVICE www.corporatecabs.co.nz • Trusted • Reliable • Safe Service • Luxury Vehicles • Airport Transfers • Customised Tours • Relaxing, comfortable with knowledgeable drivers

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Ancient paths T he su lta n ate of om a n Beauty has an address

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Discover a place where the traditions of an ancient land and its people merge seamlessly with modern times.

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