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wo man aw. 1 8 .19 Milan Paris London New York Barcelona and more


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ETRO

PUBLISHER AND DISTRIBUTOR PUBLISH FOR SRL Via Montenero 4/2A 40131 Bologna, Italy staff @publish-for.com www.fashionfocusmag.com EDITOR-IN-CHARGE Lidia Casari staff @publish-for.com GRAPHIC DESIGN Marco Burzoni GRAPHIC EXECUTIVE Rossana De Nigris DISTRIBUTION MANAGER Silvia Bottini distribution@publish-for.com SUBSCRIPTIONS MANAGER Luciana Palmulli subscriptions@publish-for.com ADVERTISING marketing@publish-for.com TAP GRAFICHE SRL POGGIBONSI (SI), ITALY APRIL 2018

t a time when the professional fashion sector is constantly looking for new inputs and inspirational sources that are able to optimize the creative research and the design of new collections, the Fashion Focus series confirms itself as an essential tool to deepen the trend analysis of each specific product category when it comes to women's wardrobe; the wide range of titles can guarantee a complete and exhaustive vision of all the style variations and the new models presented by the international designers, who are the protagonists of the most prestigious fashion weeks on a global level. From Milan to Paris, from New York to Madrid and Barcelona, ​​the Autumn/Winter 2018-19 season highlights the desire for an eclectic wardrobe that is not strictly connected to the concept of "gender", in which the male and female outfits alternate on the catwalk seamlessly, creating a creative unicum that aims to redefine not only lines and volumes, but also color palettes and decorative elements considered up to now as true stylistic taboos. We should not be surprised, therefore, if this new idea of ​​feminine wearability brings to the limelight outerwear pieces with a rigid and intentionally oversized structure, ultra-tech details that recall the world of sport competitions, massive footwear with exaggerated platforms, sartorial asymmetries. Between re-tradition and revolutionary visions that look to the future, everything is fluid and hybrid, subject to a new definition of the style that will come.

I

n un momento in cui il settore della moda professionale è alla continua ricerca di nuovi input e materiali d’ispirazione che possano ottimizzare la ricerca creativa e la progettazione delle collezioni, la collana Fashion Focus si conferma uno strumento indispensabile per approfondire l’analisi delle tendenze di ogni specifica categoria di prodotto del guardaroba femminile, garantendo una visione completa ed esauriente di tutte le varianti stilistiche e i nuovi modelli presentati dagli stilisti internazionali, protagonisti delle fashion week più prestigiose a livello globale. Da Milano a Parigi, da New York fino a Madrid e Barcellona, la stagione Autunno/Inverno 2018-19 mette in luce in maniera sempre più evidente la voglia di un guardaroba eclettico e non strettamente connesso al concetto di “genere”, in cui gli outfit maschili e femminili si alternano in passerella senza soluzione di continuità, creando un unicum creativo che punta a ridefinire non solo linee e volumi, ma anche gamme cromatiche ed elementi decorativi considerati fino ad oggi come veri e propri tabù stilistici. Non ci si dovrà stupire, quindi, se questa nuova idea di vestibilità femminile porta alla ribalta capi spalla dalla struttura rigida e volutamente oversize, dettagli ultra-tecnici che richiamano il mondo dell’agonismo sportivo, calzature massicce dai platform esagerati, asimmetrie sartoriali. Tra ripescaggi della tradizione e visioni rivoluzionarie che guardano al futuro, tutto è fluido e ibrido, soggetto a una nuova definizione dello stile che verrà.


OUTERWEAR contents

6 COATS

20 CAPES

28 CHECKED

54 SWOLLEN

66  SPACE METAL

98 TEXTURED

108 DECORATED

FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE: Milan, Paris, London, New York, Barcelona, Madrid, Ukraine


38  HAIRY & FRINGY

70  RAINY DAY

116 VEILED

46  DUBBED & OVERLAPPED

80  TRENCH REVISION

88 COMPOSITE


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GABRIELE COLANGELO GENNY GIADA GIORGIO ARMANI GIVENCHY GUDU HARRISON WONG HEAVEN PLEASE + HELEN ANTHONY HERMÈS HOUSE OF HOLLAND IRINA VITJAZ ISABEL MARANT ISABEL NUÑEZ JASON WU JEREMY SCOTT JIL SANDER JOHN GALLIANO JUNKO SHIMADA JUNYA WATANABE JUST IN XX JZ JUZUI KSENIA KNYAZEVA LACOSTE LANVIN LARISA LOBANOVA LAURA BIAGIOTTI LEONARD PARIS LES COPAINS LIBERTINE LOEWE LUCIEN PELLAT-FINET LUCIO VANOTTI MAISON MARGIELA MARCO DE VINCENZO MARIMEKKO MARINE SERRE MARNI MARQUES’ALMEIDA MARY KATRANTZOU MARYLING MASHA MA MAX MARA MICHAEL KORS MILA SCHÖN MIRIAM PONSA MISSONI MIU MIU MODEMENT MOLLY GODDARD MOONYOUNGHEE MOTHER OF PEARL N°21 NAEEM KHAN NICOPANDA NOIR KEI NINOMIYA OSCAR DE LA RENTA PAUL & JOE

42,43,44 42 10 105,111 32 34,58,82 48 91,102 26,34,100,113 16 56 117 7 8 111 67,74,75 14,36,104 73 24 25,56 84,85,115 22,3 118 78,79 74 61 10,40 13,62 105 42 17,33 39 7 49,68,71,83,96,97 60 100 70,71 14,88,89,91 67,69 101,107 9 47,54,55,58,59,79 17 21,30,62 12,37,50,87 29 28,29 33 105 118 89,90,106 35 114 113 57 119 43,65,109,117,118 41,11

PEDRO PEDRO PETER PILOTTO PHILIPP PLEIN POIRET PORTS 1961 PRABAL GURUNG PRADA PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI PRZHONSKAYA PYER MOSS RICHARD MALONE RICHARD QUINN RICHMOND RICOSTRU ROCHAS ROKSANDA ROLAND MOURET ROMEO HUNTE RUNDHOLZ SACAI SALLY LAPOINTE SELF-PORTRAIT SHIATZY CHEN SIMONE ROCHA SON JUNG WAN SONIA RYKIEL SPORTMAX STELLA JEAN STELLA MCCARTNEY STEVEN TAI SWEET MATITOS TALBOT RUNHOF TAORAY WANG TEATUM JONES TEMPERLEY LONDON THE COAT BY KATYA SILCHENKO THOM BROWNE TOGA TOM FORD TORY BURCH TRUSSARDI TSUMORI CHISATO UNDERCOVER VALENTIN YUDASHKIN VALENTINO VERONIQUE LEROY VICTORIA BECKHAM VICTORIA/TOMAS VIVETTA VIVIENNE WESTWOOD WENDY & JIM XIAO LI Y/PROJECT YAJUN YANG LI YUNA YANG ZANG TOI ZIMMERMANN

72 62,101 58,71 9,69 50,51,73 65 37 72,90,107 12,25 76 18,19 61,63 57,65 119 39,102,103,109 38,39 106 83,96 55,57,58 92 69 31 27,75,100,102 95,103,116,117,120,121 29 24 47,48,49,51 14,108,109 93 44 107 30 90 6,7,104 115 12,13,91 44 32,77,119 114 52 21 13,114 16,92,97 18,19 22,23,41,85 59,76 51 31 65,86 53 79 57,6 81 55,59 72 121 99 35


COATS

TEATUM JONES


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

6

7

LUCIO VANOTTI

ISABEL MARANT

TEATUM JONES


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 ISABEL NUÑEZ

ANTEPRIMA

3.1 PHILLIP LIM


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

8

9

Albino Teodoro

Poiret

MARYLING

COATS


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 LAURA BIAGIOTTI

BROCK COLLECTION

GIADA


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

10

11

ALBERTA FERRETTI

DELPOZO

ELIE SAAB

COATS


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 MILA SCHÖN

THE COAT BY KATYA SILCHENKO

PRZHONSKAYA


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

12

13

LEONARD PARIS

THE COAT BY KATYA SILCHENKO

TSUMORI CHISATO

COATS


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 STELLA JEAN

MARNI

JIL SANDER


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

14

15

CHANEL

CHRISTOPHER KANE

ANTEPRIMA

COATS


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 Fumik

UNDERCOVER

HERMÈS


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

16

17

LOEWE

MAX MARA

FASHION EAST - ASAI

COATS


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 VALENTIN YUDASHKIN

AALTO

RICHARD MALONE


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

18

19

VALENTIN YUDASHKIN

DEVOTA & LOMBA

RICHARD MALONE

COATS


CAPES

ALBERTA FERRETTI


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

20

21

TRUSSARDI

ALBERTA FERRETTI

MICHAEL KORS


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 VALENTINO

DOLCE & GABBANA

JZ JUZUI


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

22

23

DELPOZO

ESTEBAN CORTAZAR

VALENTINO

CAPES


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 SONIA RYKIEL

JUNKO SHIMADA

DEVOTA & LOMBA


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

24

25

DELPOZO

JUNYA WATANABE

PRZHONSKAYA

CAPES


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

ANTONIO MARRAS

Helen Anthony


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

26

27

FENDI

CAPES

CAROLINA HERRERA

SHIATZY CHEN


CHECKED

MISSONI


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

28

29

MISSONI

MIRIAM PONSA

SON JUNG WAN

AIGNER


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 TALBOT RUNHOF

MICHAEL KORS

JZ JUZUI


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

30

31

SELF-PORTRAIT

BOTTEGA VENETA

VICTORIA/TOMAS

CHECKED


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 BALENCIAGA

GIVENCHY

TOGA


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

32

33

Beautiful People

MIU MIU

LOEWE

CHECKED


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 Helen Anthony

GUDU

EMILIA WICKSTEAD


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

34

35

MOTHER OF PEARL

ANNAKIKI

ZIMMERMANN

CHECKED


AALTO

ADEAM

JIL SANDER

Autumn.Winter 18.1 9


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

36

37

MILA SCHÖN

PRADA

CHRISTIAN WIJNANTS

CHECKED


HAIRY & FRINGY

ROKSANDA


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

38

39

ROCHAS

ROKSANDA

LUCIEN PELLAT-FINET

CHRISTIAN WIJNANTS


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 LAURA BIAGIOTTI

CRISTIANO BURANI

AILANTO


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

40

41

CHRISTIAN WIJNANTS

VALENTINO

PAUL & JOE

HAIRY & FRINGY


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 GABRIELE COLANGELO

GENNY

LIBERTINE


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

42

43

GABRIELE COLANGELO

CUSTO BARCELONA

OSCAR DE LA RENTA

HAIRY & FRINGY


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 DRIES VAN NOTEN

GABRIELE COLANGELO

Steven Tai

THOM BROWNE


DUBBED & OVERLAPPED

FENDI


SPORTMAX

FENDI

MASHA MA

Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

46

47


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 HARRISON WONG

BALENCIAGA

SPORTMAX


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

48

49

MAISON MARGIELA

SPORTMAX

AGNONA

DUBBED & OVERLAPPED


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 PORTS 1961

MILA SCHÖN

EUDON CHOI


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

50

51

VICTORIA BECKHAM

SPORTMAX

PORTS 1961

DUBBED & OVERLAPPED


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 BOTTEGA VENETA

TORY BURCH

ARTEMKLIMCHUK


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

52

53

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

CHALAYAN

BOTTEGA VENETA

DUBBED & OVERLAPPED


SWOLLEN

MASHA MA


Yajun

RUNDHOLZ

MASHA MA

Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

54

55


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 HOUSE OF HOLLAND

DANIELA GREGIS

Christian Cowan

JUNYA WATANABE


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

56

57

RUNDHOLZ

NICOPANDA

SWOLLEN

RICHMOND

XIAO LI


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 GUDU

RUNDHOLZ

PHILIPP PLEIN

MASHA MA


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

58

59

MASHA MA

ANNAKIKI

SWOLLEN

VERONIQUE LEROY

Yajun


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 CHRISTIAN WIJNANTS

XIAO LI

MARCO DE VINCENZO


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

60

61

LARISA LOBANOVA

Richard Quinn

EMILIO PUCCI

SWOLLEN


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 LEONARD PARIS

MICHAEL KORS

LEONARD PARIS

PETER PILOTTO


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

62

63

CUSTO BARCELONA

Richard Quinn

SWOLLEN

3.1 PHILLIP LIM

ANTONIO MARRAS


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 CHERRY MASSIA

CHERRY MASSIA

CHANEL

ALEXANDER WANG


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

64

65

VIVETTA

PRABAL GURUNG

SWOLLEN

RICHMOND

OSCAR DE LA RENTA


SPACE METAL

DIOR


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

66

67

CUSTO BARCELONA

MARQUES'ALMEIDA

JEREMY SCOTT

DIOR


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 MAISON MARGIELA

CRISTIANO BURANI

BOTTEGA VENETA


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

68

69

Poiret

SALLY LAPOINTE

MARQUES'ALMEIDA

SPACE METAL


RAINY DAY

MARINE SERRE


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

70

71

PHILIPP PLEIN

MAISON MARGIELA

MARINE SERRE


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 YANG LI

PEDRO PEDRO

PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

72

73

CRISTIANO BURANI

PORTS 1961

JOHN GALLIANO

RAINY DAY


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 CRISTIANO BURANI

AGNONA

JEREMY SCOTT

LANVIN


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

74

75

DAIZY SHELY

JEREMY SCOTT

RAINY DAY

EACH X OTHER

SHIATZY CHEN


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 VERONIQUE LEROY

Pyer Moss

ANTONIO MIRO


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

76

77

TOGA

CHLOÉ

DRIES VAN NOTEN

RAINY DAY


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 LACOSTE

DIOR

FLOW THE LABEL


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

78

79

LACOSTE

WENDY & JIM

MASHA MA

RAINY DAY


TRENCH REVISION

Beautiful People


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

80

81

Y/PROJECT

CHLOÉ

Beautiful People


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 Beautiful People

ANNAKIKI

GUDU


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

82

83

ROMEO HUNTE

Capucci

MAISON MARGIELA

TRENCH REVISION


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 CARVEN

JUST IN XX

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

84

85

VALENTINO

DIOR

JUST IN XX

TRENCH REVISION


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 DAIZY SHELY

CREATURES OF COMFORT

VIVETTA


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

86

87

FENDI

MILA SCHÖN

DRIES VAN NOTEN

TRENCH REVISION


COMPOSITE

MARNI


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

88

89

MOONYOUNGHEE

MARNI

ESTEBAN CORTAZAR


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 MOONYOUNGHEE

TAORAY WANG

PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

90

91

THE COAT BY KATYA SILCHENKO

MARNI

HEAVEN PLEASE +

COMPOSITE


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 ANNAKIKI

UNDERCOVER

SACAI


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

92

93

ALL COMES FROM NOTHING

STELLA McCARTNEY

CIVIDINI

COMPOSITE


AGNONA

ANNAKIKI

AGNONA

Autumn.Winter 18.1 9


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

94

95

ANNAKIKI

SIMONE ROCHA

CARLOS GIL

COMPOSITE


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 ROMEO HUNTE

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

MAISON MARGIELA


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

96

97

MAISON MARGIELA

UNDERCOVER

BALENCIAGA

COMPOSITE


TEXTURED

CRISTIANO BURANI


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

98

99

CHRISTIAN WIJNANTS

ZANG TOI

CRISTIANO BURANI


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 SHIATZY CHEN

Marimekko

Helen Anthony


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

100

101

AKRIS

MARY KATRANTZOU

PETER PILOTTO

TEXTURED


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 HEAVEN PLEASE +

SHIATZY CHEN

ROCHAS


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

102 103

ROCHAS

EMILIO DE LA MORENA

SIMONE ROCHA

TEXTURED


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 FAUSTINE STEINMETZ

TEATUM JONES

JIL SANDER


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

104 105

MODEMENT

GIORGIO ARMANI

LES COPAINS

TEXTURED


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 ANNA SUI

MOONYOUNGHEE

ROLAND MOURET


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

106 107

MARY KATRANTZOU

TEXTURED

PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI

SWEET MATITOS


DECORATED

STELLA JEAN


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

108 109

ROCHAS

OSCAR DE LA RENTA

STELLA JEAN


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 BIBHU MOHAPATRA

PAUL & JOE

ARTEMKLIMCHUK


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

110

111

JASON WU

GIORGIO ARMANI

CHRISTOPHER KANE

DECORATED


DIOR

CHANEL

DIOR

Autumn.Winter 18.1 9


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

112

113

NAEEM KHAN

Helen Anthony

DOLCE & GABBANA

DECORATED


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 N°21

TSUMORI CHISATO

TOM FORD

ALBERTA FERRETTI


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

114

115

CUSTO BARCELONA

DOLCE & GABBANA

DECORATED

JUST IN XX

TEMPERLEY LONDON


VEILED

SIMONE ROCHA


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

116

117

OSCAR DE LA RENTA

SIMONE ROCHA

IRINA VITJAZ


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 MOLLY GODDARD

OSCAR DE LA RENTA

KSENIA KNYAZEVA


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

118

119

TOGA

RICOSTRU

Noir Kei Ninomiya

VEILED


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 SIMONE ROCHA

BROCK COLLECTION

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN


Fashion Focus OUTERWEAR

120

121

ADAM SELMAN

YUNA YANG

SIMONE ROCHA

VEILED


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• • • •

,SKLAWTAC E HT MORF TOH SK E EW NOI H SAF POT E HT LLA SKOOL TSEB WEoverview IVE RP SofDthe OO M The most comprehensive latest designer collections SEGA(not M Ijust EGwoman AP LL UF

ready-to-wear collections from milan, paris, london and ny, but a detailed review of kids, man and haute couture catwalks). Very early publishing date. Trends: a summary of the main trends and the most interesting moods intercepted in the seasons's international collections. A selection of the most important fashion shows and the unmissable brands, to provide an overview of everything that is trendy in every fashion week.

• • • •

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