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FASHION FOCUS WOMAN KNITWEAR - AUTUMN WINTER 2018.19 - N.9 QUARTERLY REVIEW - €59,00 ITALY

.9

WOMAN AW. 18.19 Milan Paris London New York Barcelona and more


A

LES COPAINS

PUBLISHER AND DISTRIBUTOR PUBLISH FOR SRL Via Montenero 4/2A 40131 Bologna, Italy staff @publish-for.com www.fashionfocusmag.com EDITOR-IN-CHARGE Lidia Casari staff @publish-for.com GRAPHIC DESIGN Marco Burzoni GRAPHIC EXECUTIVE Rossana De Nigris DISTRIBUTION MANAGER Silvia Bottini distribution@publish-for.com SUBSCRIPTIONS MANAGER Luciana Palmulli subscriptions@publish-for.com ADVERTISING marketing@publish-for.com TAP GRAFICHE SRL - POGGIBONSI (SI), Italy APRIL 2018

tt a time when the professional fashion sector is constantly looking for new inputs and inspirational sources that are able to optimize the creative research and the design of new collections, the Fashion Focus series confirms itself as an essential tool to deepen the trend analysis of each specific product category when it comes to women's wardrobe; the wide range of titles can guarantee a complete and exhaustive vision of all the style variations and the new models presented by the international designers, who are the protagonists of the most prestigious fashion weeks on a global level. From Milan to Paris, from New York to Madrid and Barcelona, the Autumn/Winter 2018-19 season highlights the desire for an eclectic wardrobe that is not strictly connected to the concept of "gender", in which the male and female outfits alternate on the catwalk seamlessly, creating a creative unicum that aims to redefine not only lines and volumes, but also color palettes and decorative elements considered up to now as true stylistic taboos. We should not be surprised, therefore, if this new idea of feminine wearability brings to the limelight outerwear pieces with a rigid and intentionally oversized structure, ultra-tech details that recall the world of sport competitions, massive footwear with exaggerated platforms, sartorial asymmetries. Between re-tradition and revolutionary visions that look to the future, everything is fluid and hybrid, subject to a new definition of the style that will come.

I

n un momento in cui il settore della moda professionale è alla continua ricerca di nuovi input e materiali d’ispirazione che possano ottimizzare la ricerca creativa e la progettazione delle collezioni, la collana Fashion Focus si conferma uno strumento indispensabile per approfondire l’analisi delle tendenze di ogni specifica categoria di prodotto del guardaroba femminile, garantendo una visione completa ed esauriente di tutte le varianti stilistiche e i nuovi modelli presentati dagli stilisti internazionali, protagonisti delle fashion week più prestigiose a livello globale. Da Milano a Parigi, da New York fino a Madrid e Barcellona, la stagione Autunno/Inverno 2018-19 mette in luce in maniera sempre più evidente la voglia di un guardaroba eclettico e non strettamente connesso al concetto di “genere”, in cui gli outfit maschili e femminili si alternano in passerella senza soluzione di continuità, creando un unicum creativo che punta a ridefinire non solo linee e volumi, ma anche gamme cromatiche ed elementi decorativi considerati fino ad oggi come veri e propri tabù stilistici. Non ci si dovrà stupire, quindi, se questa nuova idea di vestibilità femminile porta alla ribalta capi spalla dalla struttura rigida e volutamente oversize, dettagli ultra-tecnici che richiamano il mondo dell’agonismo sportivo, calzature massicce dai platform esagerati, asimmetrie sartoriali. Tra ripescaggi della tradizione e visioni rivoluzionarie che guardano al futuro, tutto è fluido e ibrido, soggetto a una nuova definizione dello stile che verrà.


KNITWEAR contents

6  3-D TEXTURES

20  NEW FOLK

60  GEOMETRICAL MOTIFS

66  FUZZY & FLUFFY

98  RAW EFFECTS

106  GRAPHIC IMPACT

FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE: MILAN, PARIS, LONDON, NEW YORK, BARCELONA, MADRID, MOSCOW, PORTUGAL, UKRAINE

Autumn.W inter 18.1 9


36  BRIT ESSENTIALS

44  PRECIOUS DECOR

78 GLITTERING

84 RIBBED

114 UNFINISHED

118  URBAN TRAINING

FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

2

3


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FIND A BRAND EASILY À DÉTACHER

76

ELISABETTA FRANCHI

18

MARY KATRANTZOU

50,51,108

A.M.G

32

EMPORIO ARMANI

49

MICHAEL KORS

23,29,37,41,54

A.P.C.

99

ERIKA CAVALLINI

28,115

MIRIAM PONSA

30

AALTO

8,15

ERMANNO SCERVINO

21,38,42,45,82

MISSONI

29,30,33,80,81,104

AFRICA EXPLOSION

32,56,62

ESTER FERRANDO KNITWEAR

18,102,104

MIU MIU

70,71

AKRIS

96

ETRO

30,31,33

MOLLY GODDARD

63,65

ALBERTA FERRETTI

2,66,67,70,71,83

ÉTUDES

94

MSGM

25,26,27

ALEXANDER WANG

16

EUDON CHOI

12

MURSAK

79

ALEXANDR ROGOV

55,57,88

FASHION EAST – ASAI

116

N°21

26,59,91,109

ALTUZARRA

58

FAUSTINE STEINMETZ

69

NEITH NYER

112

ANA SOUSA

82

FENDI

17

NICOLE MILLER

56

ANDREW GN

48

FRANCESCA LIBERATORE

86

OSCAR DE LA RENTA

7,45,48,49,55,57,82

ANEL YAOS + CÉLIA VALVERDE

67,72

FROLOV

38,121

PACO RABANNE

46,59

ANIYE BY

63,71

GAUCHÈRE

2,90,98,99

PAUL SMITH

110

ANTEPRIMA

88,90,91

GCDS

68,72,120

PHILOSOPHY di LORENZO SERAFINI

17,100

ANTONIO MARRAS

45,54,55

GREY JASON WU

18,49

PICCIONE.PICCIONE

47,117

ARTEMKLIMCHUK

46

HAIDER ACKERMANN

12

POIRET

73

ARTHUR ARBESSER

67

HELEN ANTHONY

57

PORTS 1961

53,76

ASHLEY WILLIAMS

24

HENRIK VIBSKOV

39

PRABAL GURUNG

14,16,23,25,35

ASIA FASHION COLLECTION - FUMIKU

57

HERMÈS

83

PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI

28,32

BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE

93

HUNTING WORLD NEW YORK

24

PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND

40,41,42,105

BIBHU MOHAPATRA

52

ICEBERG

109,12

RAHUL MISHRA

59

BLUMARINE

52

IDISM

13,18

ROBERTO CAVALLI

8,81,85

BORA AKSU

56

ISABEL MARANT

21,27

SACAI

22,34,35

BOTTEGA VENETA

69

ISABEL NUÑEZ

68,72,73

SAINT LAURENT PARIS

83

BURBERRY

115

JASPER CONRAN

75,91

SALLY LAPOINTE

7,53,85

CALCATERRA

68

JEREMY SCOTT

65

SONIA RYKIEL

117

CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION

3,114,115

JIL SANDER

93

SPORTMAX

25,50,89,120,121

CALVIN LUO

119

JOHN GALLIANO

45

STELLA JEAN

3,118,119

CARLISLE

103

JONATHAN SIMKHAI

8

STELLA McCARTNEY

16,17,100

CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS MA

10

JUNKO SHIMADA

110,111

SUSANA BETTENCOURT

61,64

CHALAYAN

90

JUNYA WATANABE

22,29,74,75,101,103

T.MOSCA

101,103,104,105

CHLOÉ

9,81,86,87

JUUN. J

10

THE COAT BY KATYA SILCHENKO

119

CHRISTIAN COWAN

53

KATERINA KVIT

93

TIBI

94,95,119

CHRISTIAN SIMMON

96

KENZO

51,92

TOGA

9

CHRISTOPHE GUILLARMÉ

89

KOCHÉ

46

TORY BURCH

43

CHRISTOPHER KANE

52,112

KRIZIA

3,78,79,96,97,110

TRUSSARDI

7

CIVIDINI

83

KSENIASERAYA

13,15,34,62

UJOH

86

COACH

111

LACOSTE

11,42,43

ULLA JOHNSON

9,97

CONCRETO

14

LAURA BIAGIOTTI

10,11

ÚRDE STUDIO

50

CRISTIANO BURANI

14,74,75

LEMAIRE

86

VALENTINO

13

DAIZY SHELY

61

LEONARD PARIS

12

VERONIQUE LEROY

91

DAKS

3,36,37

LES COPAINS

11,40,47,58,87,92,107

VERSACE

38,39

DANIELA GREGIS

74

LIBERTINE

48

VICTORIA/TOMAS

63,65

DIESEL BLACK GOLD

2,20,21,24

LUCIEN PELLAT-FINET

40

VIVIENNE TAM

34,115,116

DIOR

109,112

LUCIO VANOTTI

97

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

73

DOLCE & GABBANA

2,106,107

LUISA BECCARIA

46

WOM & NOW BARCELONA

9

DRIES VAN NOTEN

2,60,61

MAISON MARGIELA

70

Y/PROJECT

26,37,68,70,121

EDWARD CRUTCHLEY

15,85

MARCO DE VINCENZO

108

ZADIG & VOLTAIRE

23

ELENA BURENINA

90

MARGARET HOWELL

28

ZIMMERMANN

2,6,7

ELIE SAAB

3,44

MARNI

3,84,85,92,94,95


ZIMMERMANN

3-D TEXTURES


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

6

7

TRUSSARDI

SALLY LAPOINTE

OSCAR DE LA RENTA

ZIMMERMANN


Autumn.W inter 18.1 9 AALTO

AALTO

ROBERTO CAVALLI

JONATHAN SIMKHAI


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

8

9

WOM & NOW BARCELONA

TOGA

CHLOÉ

ULLA JOHNSON

3-D TEXTURES


Autumn.W inter 18.1 9

LAURA BIAGIOTTI

JUUN. J

CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

10

11

LAURA BIAGIOTTI

LES COPAINS

LACOSTE

3-D TEXTURES


Autumn.W inter 18.1 9

LEONARD PARIS

EUDON CHOI

HAIDER ACKERMANN


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

12

13

KSENIASERAYA

VALENTINO

IDISM

3-D TEXTURES


Autumn.W inter 18.1 9

CRISTIANO BURANI

PRABAL GURUNG

CONCRETO


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

14

15

KSENIASERAYA

EDWARD CRUTCHLEY AALTO

3-D TEXTURES


Autumn.W inter 18.1 9

PRABAL GURUNG

ALEXANDER WANG

STELLA MCCARTNEY


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

16

17

STELLA MCCARTNEY

PHILOSOPHY DI LORENZO SERAFINI FENDI

3-D TEXTURES


Autumn.W inter 18.1 9 GREY JASON WU

ELISABETTA FRANCHI

ESTER FERRANDO KNITWEAR

IDISM


DIESEL BLACK GOLD

NEW FOLK


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

20

21

ERMANNO SCERVINO

ISABEL MARANT

DIESEL BLACK GOLD

DIESEL BLACK GOLD


Autumn.W inter 18.1 9

JUNYA WATANABE

SACAI

JUNYA WATANABE


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

22

23

ZADIG & VOLTAIRE

MICHAEL KORS

PRABAL GURUNG

NEW FOLK


Autumn.W inter 18.1 9 HUNTING WORLD NEW YORK

HUNTING WORLD NEW YORK

DIESEL BLACK GOLD

ASHLEY WILLIAMS


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

24

25

MSGM

SPORTMAX

PRABAL GURUNG

NEW FOLK


Autumn.W inter 18.1 9

MSGM

N°21

N°21

Y/PROJECT


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

26

27

MSGM

ISABEL MARANT

ISABEL MARANT

NEW FOLK


Autumn.W inter 18.1 9 MARGARET HOWELL

MARGARET HOWELL

ERIKA CAVALLINI

PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

28

29

MISSONI

JUNYA WATANABE

MICHAEL KORS

NEW FOLK


Autumn.W inter 18.1 9

MISSONI

ETRO

MIRIAM PONSA


NEW FOLK ETRO

ETRO

ETRO

FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

30

31


Autumn.W inter 18.1 9

A.M.G

AFRICA EXPLOSION

PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI


NEW FOLK MISSONI

ETRO ETRO

FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

32

33


Autumn.W inter 18.1 9

KSENIASERAYA

SACAI

VIVIENNE TAM


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

34

35

SACAI

SACAI

PRABAL GURUNG

NEW FOLK


DAKS

BRIT ESSENTIALS


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

36

37

DAKS

DAKS

Y/PROJECT

MICHAEL KORS


Autumn.W inter 18.1 9

VERSACE

FROLOV

ERMANNO SCERVINO


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

38

39

HENRIK VIBSKOV

HENRIK VIBSKOV VERSACE

BRIT ESSENTIALS


Autumn.W inter 18.1 9

LUCIEN PELLAT-FINET

PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND

LES COPAINS


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

40

41

PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND

MICHAEL KORS MICHAEL KORS

BRIT ESSENTIALS


Autumn.W inter 18.1 9

ERMANNO SCERVINO

PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND

LACOSTE


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

42

43

LACOSTE

TORY BURCH

TORY BURCH

BRIT ESSENTIALS


ELIE SAAB

PRECIOUS DECOR


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

44

45

OSCAR DE LA RENTA

ANTONIO MARRAS

JOHN GALLIANO

ERMANNO SCERVINO


Autumn.W inter 18.1 9 ARTEMKLIMCHUK

KOCHÉ

LUISA BECCARIA

PACO RABANNE


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

46

47

LES COPAINS

PICCIONE.PICCIONE

LES COPAINS

PRECIOUS DECOR


Autumn.W inter 18.1 9 ANDREW GN

OSCAR DE LA RENTA

LIBERTINE

LIBERTINE


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

48

49

OSCAR DE LA RENTA

OSCAR DE LA RENTA

EMPORIO ARMANI

GREY JASON WU

PRECIOUS DECOR


Autumn.W inter 18.1 9

MARY KATRANTZOU

SPORTMAX

ÚRDE STUDIO


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

50

51

KENZO

KENZO

MARY KATRANTZOU

PRECIOUS DECOR


Autumn.W inter 18.1 9 BIBHU MOHAPATRA

BLUMARINE

CHRISTOPHER KANE

CHRISTOPHER KANE


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

52

53

PORTS 1961

SALLY LAPOINTE

CHRISTIAN COWAN

PRECIOUS DECOR


Autumn.W inter 18.1 9

MICHAEL KORS

ANTONIO MARRAS

ANTONIO MARRAS


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

54

55

ALEXANDR ROGOV

OSCAR DE LA RENTA ANTONIO MARRAS

PRECIOUS DECOR


Autumn.W inter 18.1 9

NICOLE MILLER

AFRICA EXPLOSION

BORA AKSU


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

56

57

ASIA FASHION COLLECTION - FUMIKU

OSCAR DE LA RENTA

HELEN ANTHONY

ALEXANDR ROGOV

PRECIOUS DECOR


Autumn.W inter 18.1 9

LES COPAINS

ALTUZARRA

ALTUZARRA


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

58

59

RAHUL MISHRA

PACO RABANNE

N°21

N°21

PRECIOUS DECOR


DRIES VAN NOTEN

GEOMETRICAL MOTIFS


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

60

61

DAIZY SHELY

DAIZY SHELY

SUSANA BETTENCOURT

DRIES VAN NOTEN


Autumn.W inter 18.1 9

AFRICA EXPLOSION

KSENIASERAYA


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

62

63

VICTORIA/TOMAS

ANIYE BY

MOLLY GODDARD

GEOMETRICAL MOTIFS


Autumn.W inter 18.1 9

SUSANA BETTENCOURT

SUSANA BETTENCOURT

SUSANA BETTENCOURT


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

64

65

VICTORIA/TOMAS

JEREMY SCOTT

MOLLY GODDARD

GEOMETRICAL MOTIFS


ALBERTA FERRETTI

FUZZY & FLUFFY


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

66

67

ANEL YAOS + CÉLIA VALVERDE

ANEL YAOS + CÉLIA VALVERDE

ARTHUR ARBESSER

ALBERTA FERRETTI


Autumn.W inter 18.1 9 Y/PROJECT

CALCATERRA

GCDS

ISABEL NUÑEZ


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

68

69

FAUSTINE STEINMETZ

BOTTEGA VENETA FAUSTINE STEINMETZ

FUZZY & FLUFFY


Autumn.W inter 18.1 9 MIU MIU

ALBERTA FERRETTI

MAISON MARGIELA

Y/PROJECT


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

70

71

MIU MIU

ALBERTA FERRETTI

ANIYE BY

MIU MIU

FUZZY & FLUFFY


Autumn.W inter 18.1 9 ANEL YAOS + CÉLIA VALVERDE

ANEL YAOS + CÉLIA VALVERDE

GCDS

ISABEL NUÑEZ


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

72

73

POIRET

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

ISABEL NUÑEZ

FUZZY & FLUFFY


Autumn.W inter 18.1 9

JUNYA WATANABE

CRISTIANO BURANI

DANIELA GREGIS

DANIELA GREGIS


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

74

75

CRISTIANO BURANI

JUNYA WATANABE

JASPER CONRAN

FUZZY & FLUFFY


Autumn.W inter 18.1 9

PORTS 1961

À DÉTACHER

À DÉTACHER


KRIZIA

GLITTERING


MURSAK

KRIZIA

KRIZIA

FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

78

79


MISSONI

MISSONI

MISSONI

Autumn.W inter 18.1 9


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

80

81

ROBERTO CAVALLI

CHLOÉ

MISSONI

GLITTERING


Autumn.W inter 18.1 9 ANA SOUSA

OSCAR DE LA RENTA

ERMANNO SCERVINO

ERMANNO SCERVINO


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

82

83

HERMÈS

SAINT LAURENT PARIS

ALBERTA FERRETTI

CIVIDINI

GLITTERING


MARNI

RIBBED


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

84

85

ROBERTO CAVALLI

MARNI

SALLY LAPOINTE

EDWARD CRUTCHLEY


Autumn.W inter 18.1 9 LEMAIRE

CHLOÉ

FRANCESCA LIBERATORE

UJOH


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

86

87

CHLOÉ

LES COPAINS

CHLOÉ

RIBBED


Autumn.W inter 18.1 9

ALEXANDR ROGOV

ANTEPRIMA

ANTEPRIMA


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

88

89

SPORTMAX

CHRISTOPHE GUILLARMÉ

SPORTMAX

RIBBED


Autumn.W inter 18.1 9 GAUCHÈRE

CHALAYAN

ANTEPRIMA

ELENA BURENINA


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

90

91

ANTEPRIMA

N°21

JASPER CONRAN

VERONIQUE LEROY

RIBBED


KENZO

MARNI

LES COPAINS

Autumn.W inter 18.1 9


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

92

93

BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE

JIL SANDER

KATERINA KVIT

JIL SANDER

RIBBED


TIBI MARNI

ÉTUDES

Autumn.W inter 18.1 9


RIBBED MARNI

TIBI MARNI

FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

94

95


Autumn.W inter 18.1 9

KRIZIA

AKRIS

CHRISTIAN SIMMON


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

96

97

LUCIO VANOTTI

KRIZIA

ULLA JOHNSON

KRIZIA

RIBBED


GAUCHÈRE

RAW EFFECTS


GAUCHÈRE

A.P.C.

GAUCHÈRE

FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

98

99


Autumn.W inter 18.1 9

PHILOSOPHY DI LORENZO SERAFINI

STELLA MCCARTNEY

STELLA MCCARTNEY


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

100

101

T.MOSCA

JUNYA WATANABE

T.MOSCA

RAW EFFECTS


Autumn.W inter 18.1 9

ESTER FERRANDO KNITWEAR

ESTER FERRANDO KNITWEAR


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

102 103

T.MOSCA

CARLISLE

JUNYA WATANABE

RAW EFFECTS


Autumn.W inter 18.1 9

MISSONI

T.MOSCA

ESTER FERRANDO KNITWEAR


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

104 105

PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND

T.MOSCA

T.MOSCA

RAW EFFECTS


DOLCE & GABBANA

GRAPHIC IMPACT


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

106 107

LES COPAINS

LES COPAINS

DOLCE & GABBANA


Autumn.W inter 18.1 9

MARCO DE VINCENZO

MARY KATRANTZOU

MARCO DE VINCENZO


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

108 109

ICEBERG

ICEBERG

N°21

DIOR

GRAPHIC IMPACT


Autumn.W inter 18.1 9

PAUL SMITH

KRIZIA

JUNKO SHIMADA


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

110

111

JUNKO SHIMADA

COACH

JUNKO SHIMADA

GRAPHIC IMPACT


Autumn.W inter 18.1 9 DIOR

NEITH NYER

CHRISTOPHER KANE

CHRISTOPHER KANE


CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION

UNFINISHED


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

114

115

CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION

ERIKA CAVALLINI

VIVIENNE TAM

BURBERRY

CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION


Autumn.W inter 18.1 9 VIVIENNE TAM

FASHION EAST – ASAI

VIVIENNE TAM

FASHION EAST – ASAI


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

116

117

SONIA RYKIEL

SONIA RYKIEL

SONIA RYKIEL

PICCIONE.PICCIONE

UNFINISHED


STELLA JEAN

URBAN TRAINING


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

118

119

THE COAT BY KATYA SILCHENKO

TIBI

CALVIN LUO

STELLA JEAN


GCDS ICEBERG

SPORTMAX

Autumn.W inter 18.1 9


FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR

120

121

SPORTMAX

Y/PROJECT

FROLOV

URBAN TRAINING


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