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THE RELIANCE ISSUE:

Modern Man.

MAGAZINE

frank delgadillo’s

Chapter.

JULY 2014

Summer Essentials / Richard Avedon

MANIFESTO

fac路tion (noun) a small, organized, dissenting group within a larger one...

Contemporary. Creative. Controlled. Just a few words that describe FACTION, a magazine that dwelves into the modern day man. From menswear, to the latest in cuisine, we are the source for the latest styles for men.

Simply put, our team of very carefully selected staff scour Los Angeles, San Francisco, New York, and Tokyo to find all the latest from gadgets to trousers that will leave a lasting impression. We also try to maintain affordability and function.

MAGAZINE

MAGAZINE

TABLE OF CONTENTS About Us

With a dedicated team focused on the progression of fashion through visual inspirations and the provision of knowledge, FACTION's devotion and commitment has made it one of the premiere online destinations for editorially driven commerce and news. Spanning a comprehensive range of both styles and brands, from streetwear to high-end and from established to well-known, the Hypebeast editorial team has sought to make a positive contribution to one of culture's most important creative mediums.

FACTION's daily news section has become an important destination for those interested in the latest developments within the fashion community as well as other aspects of culturally-relevant content such as art, music, design and lifestyle.

Several consistent marquee features have provided FACTION readers with a unique vantage point into the industry. Among the most prominent ongoing features include ESSENTIALS (a look into the daily essentials of several important creatives within the industry), PROCESS (an account from start to finish of how products are created) and PEN & PAPER (an intimate look into the sketchbook of an artist).

FACTION's editorial is further enhanced through its online video presence dedicated to creating impactful stories through FACTION's own stylized vision, the video platform will provide a further dimension to some of the most interesting and compelling stories within fashion and culture.

To tie the various facets of FACTION together is our online store. Since FACTION 's inception, an appreciation for fashion and product has been fundamental to our vision. An online store has given visitors the opportunity to conveniently shop and purchase some of our favourite brands spanning streetwear to contemporary and high fashion. A truly eclectic mix of numerous styles, our online store offers a one-stop destination for numerous innovative and highly sought-after brands.

5 Letter from the Editor 8 Donuts to go.

5

5th floor: Windows from the Surreal

10 Film Review: A Single MAN 12 The Next Chapter 22

RICHARD AVEDON: Portrait of an Artist.

Victor Alexander C. Editor-in-Chef, FACTION Magazine.

From Moreno Valley, CA My mission is to inspire youth to think even bigger, to offer a glimpse of the universal infinity of possibilities within their grasp, to assist them, even if only in some small way along their path, to unlock their truest self and unleash their own unique and individual powers into the world. We do this because human potential is unlimited in scope. Our thoughts and imagination are the only real limits to our capabilities.

Chapter manifests a taste of importance with desire to evoke underlying, emotinal states of grandeur and visceral appeal focused around the individual man.

follow the editor: @lurkchild ig:thelurkchild lurkchild.net

MAGAZINE

letter from editor

EATS I PUBLIC I MEDIA

MIX Donuts to go.

So as an act of public service, we scoured the city for the best doughnuts around, all worth the sugar crash you'll inevitably experience later. We focused our search on actual doughnut shops, as opposed to restaurants that serve them on the menu -- with the exception of one, because if you're going to order a doughnut from a waitress, it seems fitting to do so at a 24-hour diner. Turn the page for our list of the Top 10 doughnuts in L.A.

10. Maggie’s Donuts

There's one main reason to swing by Maggie's, and that's the custard-filled iced chocolate bar, which is so, well, custard-filled, it's literally bursting.

Served split down the middle, you get a peek before you eat at the erupting cool vanilla epicenter, which couples perfectly with the soft and sweet doughnut shell. Some of the custard will spill out onto your fingers, and you'll lap it up, and you won't care how that looks.

2612 E. Sixth St., Los Angeles; 213-383-1511.

9. SPUDNUTS

Out of the chains around L.A., Spudnuts is our top pick. It's a basic shop with a hefty handful of locations all around L.A. and the Valley. As such, it's best to keep your order simple, too. If you're gonna do chocolate, do it all the way with the chocolate-frosted and chocolate chip-topped chocolate doughnut. Even better, though, is the vanilla cruller, which is only lightly glazed, but manages to pack a really bright vanilla flavor.

2775 Van Nuys Blvd., Los Angeles; 818-896-4678

8. Du-Par's Du-Par's certainly isn't a doughnut shop, but if you're near the Grove location, it's worth braving the highly congested parking lot to sample one of the few varieties this diner has on its menu. The classic glazed is a champion of its breed, puffed up to a thick, chewy consistency that requires serious jaw action for each bite. Du-Par's gets the glaze just right too -- hardened barely past the point of sticky liquid to form something shy of a crust. The bear claw isn't your run-of-the-mill, boasting a delicious almond filling that's reminiscent of baklava. And the fact that it's served warm certainly doesn't hurt.

6333 W. Third St., Los Angeles; 323-933-8446.

7. Ms. Donuts

In the Echo Park/Silver Lake area, the Old-Fashioned doughnut is also a winner here, with glaze so thick it softly crunches as you eat it.

1353 Glendale Blvd.,

Los Angeles; 213-484-0927.

EATS I PUBLIC I MEDIA

MIX

5th floor.

WINDOWS INTO THE SURREAL.

FIDM’S 5TH FLOOR WINDOWS CELEBRATE ELSA SCHIAPARELLI.

Madder and more original than most of her contemporaries, Mme Schiaparelli is the one to whom the word ‘genius’ is applied most often,” Time magazine wrote of its cover subject in 1934.[1] Coco Chanel once dismissed her rival as “that Italian artist who makes clothes.” (To Schiaparelli, Chanel was simply “that milliner.”)[2]

Indeed, Schiaparelli—“Schiap” to friends—stood out among her peers as a true nonconformist, using clothing as a medium to express her unique ideas. In the thirties, her peak creative period, her salon overflowed with the wild, the whimsical, and even the ridiculous.

Many of her madcap designs could be pulled off only by a woman of great substance and style: Gold ruffles sprouted from the fingers of chameleon-green suede gloves; a pale-blue satin evening gown—modeled

by Madame Crespi in Vogue—had a stiff overskirt of Rhodophane (a transparent, glasslike modern material); a smart black suit jacket had red lips for pockets. Handbags, in the form of music boxes, tinkled tunes like “Rose Marie, I Love You”; others fastened with padlocks. Monkey fur and zippers (newfangled in the thirties) were everywhere.

“Dare to be different,”[7] is the advice she offered to women. Pace-setters and rule-breakers waved that flag through the sixties, the seventies, and beyond.

Photocredit Portrait: Irving Penn Windows: photographed by Carlos Diaz

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A SINGLE MAN

MIX

Sights Unseen.

Los Angeles. We learn gradually that George lost his younger partner, Jim, in a car crash and discover much later that this is a significant day for George, a slow reveal that gives the text a random, quotidian quality.

by FRANCIS WOLFE

We tend to make a fuss of debutants. We celebrate their precocity. We excuse their naivety. But sometimes the word is

As a director, Ford manages to exude both extreme confidence and first-time nerves. Only a beginner would decide misleading. Take Tom Ford. ‘A Single Man’ is the 48 year old’s first that the best way to add structure to film, but can we really call a man who spent ten years as the creative director of Gucci a “A Single Man’ is a superb choice a near-perfect story is to insert a gun beginner? Couture is not cinema, but there from almost the very first scene. But for a concise, intimate film. are similarities. Both have a tendency to the control and precision with which Ford tells his story helps us to ignore crush art with commerce. Both demand that Its events are few, its emotional this choice and still trust his vision, an army of power is cumulative.” which falls off the screen with an creatives – art directors, production designintoxicating fluidity, helped by ers, photographers and the rest – unite behind a vision that is sold ruthlessly to the public. So it’s worth remembering evocative editing of sound and image and an increasingly affectthat Ford’s toolbag was already full to ing score by Abel Korzeniowski. The film looks gorgeous. Young brimming when he embarked on his first film – though whether or not Spanish DoP Eduard Gran, a graduate of the National Film and Television School, shoots on an old 35mm stock that gives the he knew how to use those tools is another thing entirely. images a soft precision. Almost all the film is colour, but the colours tell a story themselves: Ford manipulates the film’s

Christopher Isherwood’s short 1964 novel ‘A Single Man’ brightness so that it glows and darkens depending on George’s is a superb choice for a concise, intimate film. Its events are few, its emotional power is cumulative. The book visits one day in the life of mood.

George, a gay British expat and middle-aged literature teacher in 1962

SSUR.COM

the look

SPRING

ESSENTIALS

D

uring the months of July, August, and September there is a transistional period of weather. Gear up with these seasonal transition appropriate pieces.

Similar to the grunge of last Fall we only hint at these tastes with nuetral tones and small flares of warm colors.

1. Junya Watanbe - Striped Rib Longsleeve Shirt. $210 2. Saint Laurent - Bretain Stripe Wool-Knit Crewneck Pullover. $326 3. Saint Laurent - Alternative Strip Crewneck T-shirt. $166 4. Rick Owens - Stripe Sweat/Mesh Short. $213 5-6. Claire “GRIMES” Boucher for Saint Laurent - Egyptian Cotton T-shirt w/ graphic. $122 7. (Left to Right) Saint Laurent - Vintage Wash “Skinny” Denim Black. $890 Saint Laurent - Vintage Wash “Skinny” Denim in True Blue. $720 Saint Laurent - Vintage Wash “Skinny” Denim in Grey. $790 8. Supreme / Schott(R) - Plaid, Silk-Lined Flight Jacket in Red. $238 9. Saint Laurent / Wolverine(R) suede one-piece boots. $953 10. Rick Owens - Toe-cap leather lowtop Sneaker. $658 11. Yohji Yamamoto / Dr. Martens (R) - Leather Mid-Top Boot. $1,239

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cover story

THE NEXT CHAPTER. Frank Delgadillo launches his new line.

After parting ways with Comune, Frank Delgadillo, who also launched Ambiguous, announced today that he and the sales, marketing, and creative team that left Comune with him, are launching a new brand called Chapter.

The collection will have a soft launch for Spring/Summer 2012 with a full men’s and women’s line debuting for Fall 2012 in July of next year.

“Chapter’s mantra, ‘Nothing More Beyond’ asserts our position that utmost quality doesn’t start and stop at design and the aesthetic of each collection but also extends to the lifestyle we lead, weaving itself into every aspect of our identity” states founder, Frank Delgadillo.

We caught up with Delgadillo to learn more about the next Chapter: Frank Delgadillo Photographed in Los Angeles, CA. November 2013

Congratulations on the new brand. Can you fill us in a little on what’s been happening at your camp over the last month since leaving Comune and announcing Chapter’s launch?

Everything happened very unexpectedly and sudden so we’ve all been working very hard and diligent to coordinate our efforts in a short amount of time. To say the least it has been hectic, not to mention getting our home back in shape – you always forget how hard it is to start from scratch. However it has been a great bonding experience with the team. We’ve spent a lot of time together and we realize how much of a family we are.

BY VICTOR C. PHOTOGRAPHED BY ALEXANDER BORTZ

“FROM SKATEBOARDS TO

MENSWEAR FRANK ADAPTS TO THE CULTURE.”

Is it all the same team working on Chapter that left Comune with you?

Yes, we all feel very fortunate to have such a close group of friends and family.

What lessons did you learn from your last endeavor that you’re applying to Chapter’s launch?

Creating a successful brand it is about relationships and the brand’s synergy, the people behind the brand are the DNA of the company, and family is everything.

Also honesty is key, it is important to stick to your values and not compromise your integrity.

What can retailers expect from Chapter moving forward and what is your goal as far as distribution?

At Chapter, we will continue to design product that reflects our lifestyle and the things we love. Our goal is to offer a multi-channel brand that is showcased in the best retail stores around the world. We look to grow brand distribution cohesively with our retail partners and our distribution model will remain focused on building the brand with those that support and believe in us. Retailers can expect to see the highest level of integrity and quality complemented by an equally price conscious product assortment.

With the same crew, how will the product, pricing, and marketing differ from Comune?

At the end of the day, we are who we are. We live a lifestyle, and Chapter is going to be a continuation and extension of that lifestyle. However like anything—there is always evolution. We have some new projects in [the] works, as well as expansion plans into new categories outside of our apparel collections, [creative home accessories].

cover story

ModernMenswear.

Anything else you’d like to add?

We’d all like to give a huge thanks to everyone’s support from contributors, friends, family, retailers, industry and media partners. We are excited for the future of Chapter.

According to the brand, Chapter “will feature affordable premium product, such as denim and woven shirting, designed with the highest level of integrity and quality complemented by an equally price conscious seasonal product assortment. Each silhouette will draw upon influence from the CHAPTER family. The collection will continue to evolve as new passions and interests are discovered including the addition of creative home accessories, but will stand to remain true to the sentiments of those who grew up with skate, snow and artistic roots. Chapter will be headquartered in the previous Comune offices at 2139 Placentia, Costa Mesa, California, and is already planning an inaugural launch event party for October.

The brand also says it will “continue to expand the creative collective of contributors involved with the brand including: photographer Jason Lee Parry, artist and skateboarder Gareth Stehr, photographer Jimmy Fontaine, the band Crocodiles, motorcycle journalist Nelson Kanno, furniture designer Nick Musso and multi-media artist Hunter Longe with more to be revealed after the inaugural launch event.”

Delgadillo and a group of nine other Comune employees announced they were leaving the brand on June 17 of this year. The rest of the group included: Mike Quinones (Creative Director) Mark Logan (Brand Manager) Julie Shumaker (VP of Marketing) Matt Davis (VP of Sales) Clifford Lidell (Graphic Designer) Kerri Banach (Designer) Billy Garner (Marketing Coordinator) Sean Ciminesi (West Coast sales) Cory Heenan (East Coast sales)

“ USA made menswear, CHAPTER makes it all look simple.”

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A PORTRAIT OF AN ARTIST

by Kely Smith

“All photographs are accurate.

None of them is the truth.”

–Richard Avedon

W

hat do Jean Genet, Jimmy Durante, Brigitte Bardot, Georgia O’Keeffe, Jacques Cousteau, Andy Warhol, and Lena Horne have in common? They were a few of the many personalities caught on film by photographer Richard Avedon. For more than fifty years, Richard Avedon’s portraits have filled the pages of the country’s finest magazines.

His stark imagery and brilliant insight into his subjects’ characters has made him one of the premier American portrait photographers.

Born in New York in 1923, Richard Avedon dropped out of high school and joined the Merchant Marine’s photographic section. Upon his return in 1944, he found a job as a photographer in a department store. Within two years he had been “found” by an art director at Harper’s Bazaar and was producing work for them as well as Vogue, Look, and a number of other magazines. During the early years, Avedon made his living primarily through work in advertising. His real passion, however, was the portrait and its ability to express the essence of its subject.

A

s Avedon’s notoriety grew, so did the opportunities to meet and photograph celebrities from a broad range of disciplines. Avedon’s ability to present personal views of public figures, who were otherwise distant and inaccessible, was immediately recognized by the public and the celebrities themselves. Many sought out Avedon for their most public images. His artistic style brought a sense of sophistication and authority to the portraits. More than anything, it is Avedon’s ability to set his subjects at ease that helps him create true, intimate, and lasting photographs.

Throughout his career Avedon has maintained a unique style all his own. Famous for their minimalism, Avedon portraits are often well lit and in front of white backdrops. When printed, the images regularly contain the dark outline of the film in which the image was framed. Within the minimalism of his empty studio, Avedon’s subjects move freely, and it is this movement which brings a sense of spontaneity to the images. Often containing only a portion of the person being photographed, the images seem intimate in their imperfection.

While many photographers are interested in either catching a moment in time or preparing a formal image, Avedon has found a way to do both.

Beyond his work in the magazine industry, Avedon has collaborated on a number of books of portraits. In 1959 he worked with Truman Capote on a book that documented some of the most famous and important people of the century. Observations included images of Buster Keaton, Gloria Vanderbilt, Pablo Picasso, Dr. J. Robert Oppenheimer, Frank Lloyd Wright, and Mae West. Around this same time he began a series of images of patients in mental hospitals.

Replacing the controlled environment of the studio with that of the hospital he was able to recreate the genius of his other portraits with non-celebrities. The brutal reality of the lives of the insane was a bold contrast to his other work. Years later he would again drift from his celebrity portraits with a series

of studio images of drifters, carnival workers, and

working class Americans.

Throughout the 1960s Avedon continued to work for Harper’s Bazaar and in 1974 he collaborated with James Baldwin on the book Nothing Personal. Having met in New York in 1943, Baldwin and Avedon were friends and collaborators for more than thirty years. For all of the 1970s and 1980s Avedon continued working for Vogue magazine, where he would take some of the most famous portraits of the decades. In 1992 he became the first staff photographer for The New Yorker, and two years later the Whitney Museum brought together fifty years of his work in the retrospective, “Richard Avedon: Evidence”. He was voted one of the ten greatest photographers in the world by Popular Photography magazine, and in 1989 received an honorary doctorate from the Royal College of Art in London. Today, his pictures continue to bring us a closer, more intimate view of the great and the famous.

Avedon died on October 1st, 2004.

Golden State of Mind.

Sneakerness Paris 2014 Recap

N

ow in its sixth year, the renowned sneaker exhibition Sneakerness ventured to the French capital last weekend, showcasing some of the most sought-after kicks on the market to prospective buyers and sneakerheads alike. Attracting fans from all over Europe, an eclectic range of footwear was on display such as the Nike x Tom Sachs NIKECraft capsule collection from 2012, the more recent Sneaker Freaker x adidas Originals miZXFLUX, and Sneakerness Paris x PUMA XT2, all of which were among the myriad of coveted silhouettes present at the exhibition. As expected, we spotted a number of attendees rocking rare and classic gems, which we’ve shared in the above gallery. Be sure to browse through the images and share your thoughts in the comments below.

Next up for our ongoing Sneaker Rotation segment is Emily Oberg, Editorial Producer at Complex. Based in New York, you may have caught Emily delivering fashion- and music-related news updates on the Complex Style channel. Emily also keeps busy by delivering curated mixes, shifting most commonly between deep house and nu-disco. A picky sneaker enthusiast, mainly favoring ’90s iterations and vintage Nikes, Emily picked out several pairs from her Nike Air Max collection including an AM 93, AM 97 and AM Plus.

The Kendrick-approved Nike Cortez also makes an appearance amongst Oberg’s choices, capped off with a New Balance 993, Nike Air Trainer Huarache and the collaborative Air Force 1 Hi from Riccardo Tisci and Nike.

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