Providence Monthly July 2019

Page 1


14 Parade Street Providence $645,000 401.457.3400

Kettle Point East Providence From the High $400,000s 401.553.6389

See Video and Floor Plans at KettlePointHomes.com

71 Sycamore Street Providence $419,000 401.274.6740

#1 in RI Homes Sold Four Consecutive Years * Barrington Cumberland East Greenwich Narragansett Providence West Side PVD Relocation

401.245.9600 401.333.9333 401.885.8400 401.783.2474 401.274.6740 401.457.3400 800.886.1775

*This statement is based in whole or in part on data supplied by the State-Wide Multiple Listing Service. The MLS does not guarantee and is not in any way responsible for its accuracy. Data maintained by the MLS may not reflect all real estate activity in the market. Based on information from Statewide Multiple Listing Service, Inc. for 1995-2018 as of January 2019.

58 Willow Street Providence $469,900 401.457.3400

120 122 Lenox Avenue Providence $239,000 401.274.6740

89 Ferncrest Avenue Cranston $369,900 401.457.3400

755 Westminster St, Unit 403 Providence $460,000 401.457.3400

See the Video Tour at 755Westminster.com



We know buyers are searching online. While print still gets all the glory, only 1% of home buyers actually start their search that way. Nowadays, the first step most buyers take happens online.

East Side

That’s why with us, online syndication isn’t an option-it’s standard. While most brokers only offer this service to homes above $1 million, we offer it to every single home we list. That means your home will be on websites like the Wall Street Journal, Financial Times, and even international sites like Nikkei, no matter its price point. When your leads come in digitally, they’re directed to the listing agent best equipped to answer all questions about your property quickly and efficiently. This ensures your agent can focus on the most promising buyers, while still nurturing every lead that comes in from anywhere in the world.

See how our access, experience and expertise can get you better buyers at mottandchace.com.

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ProvidenceOnline.com • July 2019

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485 Angell Street | Wayland Square | Providence | 443-5249 | pvdwinebar.com

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ProvidenceOnline.com • July 2019


CO N T E N TS

Photography by Wolf Matthewson

Providence Monthly • July 2019

With locally sourced menus, farmers markets, and growers, the city is in full bloom

29 Farm to City Farmers and entrepreneurs alike are sowing the seeds for a traceable future

DEPARTMENTS Pulse

13 The Avenue Concept unveils

24 RHODY GEM: A huge selection

Food & Drink

Art & Culture

of spirits near where that old

47 SPOTLIGHT: Check out Trinity

59 THE MUST LIST: Events you

Rhode Island’s first Selfie Wall

Benny’s use to be

Brewhouse’s beer garden at Bilt-

can’t miss this month

more Park

14 Students get real-life experience through Providence home build

16 Massive renovation turn The Steel

Life & Style

37 HOME: Provy curb appeal with

to Providence with a band of

turns 150

friends

Instagram’s The Front Door Project 52 IN THE KITCHEN: Chef Ben

64 ART: Maritime issues inform the

39 INFLUENCER: Meet dynamic

Sukle doesn’t play anyone else’s

art of Mea Duke

duo Ben and Aja Blanc

game

41 SHOP: Make any table a blue

48 EXPERIENCE: Old meets new at

plate special with these

Federal Hill’s Maria’s Cucina

Yard into a year-round arts hub

18 New book about 19th century

62 MUSIC: Josh Cournoyer returns 50 FOOD NEWS: The Saugy Dog

Rhode Island chronicles the state’s most famous influencers

20 New head of tourism talks

handcrafted goods

of Providence

44 WHOLE BODY: Reach new heights at the Rock Spot

22 YEAR OF THE CITY: Special program at FringePVD highlights the old and new Olneyville

ON THE COVER: Agriculture turns urban. Designed by Nick DelGiudice.

66 A city snapshot from one of our readers

54 RESTAURANT GUIDE

about the past, present, and future

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MONTHLY

Publishers Barry Fain Richard Fleischer John Howell

Media Director Jeanette St. Pierre

Editor in Chief Elyse Major

Editor Megan Schmit

Staff Writer Robert Isenberg

Editor Lauren Vella

Art Director Nick DelGiudice

Associate Art Director Brandon Harmon

Advertising Design Director Layheang Meas

Graphic Designer Taylor Gilbert

Staff Photographer Savannah Barkley

Account Managers Shelley Cavoli Louann DiMuccio-Darwich Ann Gallagher Kristine Mangan Olf Elizabeth Riel Dan Schwartz Stephanie Oster Wilmarth For advertising information email: Marketing@ProvidenceOnline.com

Contributing Photographers Mike Braca Wolf Matthewson

Contributing Writers

Framing

Gallery

Printing

Restoration

ation

Install

Ed McCarthy

Adan Hogue

Isabella DeLeo

Jackie Ignall

Amanda Grosvenor

Stephanie Obodda

Interns Rebecca Clark

Mackenzie Sweet

Distribution Services Special Delivery

27 Dryden Ln. Providence RI 02904 www.ProvidencePictureFrame.com 401.421.6196 10

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PROVIDENCE MEDIA INC. 1070 Main Street, Suite 302, Pawtucket RI 02860 401-305-3391 • Mail@ProvidenceOnline.com ProvidenceOnline.com


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PULSE

FIND ME HERE The Avenue Concept unveils Rhode Island’s first Selfie Wall In May, something exciting happened in Upper South Providence. Stroke by stroke, a giant pair of multi-colored wings appeared on an unassuming brick wall near Trinity Square. During the installation, nearly 100 curious passers-by stopped to ask questions. Within the first five minutes of it being complete, someone paused to snap a photo. And in less than four hours, the first posts appeared on social media. Say hello to The Avenue Concept’s latest mural, Rhode Island’s first Selfie Wall. “I have been playing and experimenting with selfie walls for a few years using plywood and materials that are temporary, but this was the first painted on a public wall,” says Yarrow Thorne, TAC’s founder and artistic director. He partnered with artist James Mustin, and the two collaborated to brainstorm a design that would complement the location and make the most impact. They settled on a set of

angel wings to frame the existing window, with each colorful, patterned feather having “its own story.” The Selfie Wall, which is reminiscent of the famous wing murals scattered over the country in cities like Nashville and Los Angeles, has been a hit. It’s tucked in an area with less foot traffic, an intentional choice since Yarrow hopes to “use public art to draw people to this space and encourage them to interact with it in a medium and format they are comfortable with.” Part of the fun is finding it; TAC hints that it’s in the general area between Trinity Square and their Cultural Corridor installation. When you do, take a pic like we did (and no, we won’t tell you where it is!) and tag @avenuepvd to share your story. Yarrow says that TAC has over 15 new installations planned for the summer, so stay tuned at TheAvenueConcept.org and their Twitter, Instagram, and Facebook pages. -Megan Schmit

Photography by Brandon Harmon ProvidenceOnline.com • July 2019

13


An Unforgettable Dining Experience — SINCE 1988 —

PULSE • City

Laying the Foundation Providence Career & Technical Academy gives students real-life construction experience through home build Eric Martinez, Cristian Mercedes, and Christian Roman put their PCTA skills to the test at the home build

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ProvidenceOnline.com • July 2019

It’s one thing to operate equipment and use tools in shop class, but building a house takes those skills to another level.

That’s the experience that nearly 150 juniors and seniors, plus more than 100 freshmen and sophomores shadows,

Photo courtesy of PCTA

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from the Providence Career & Technical Academy (PCTA) are gaining as they build a Blackstone Street home from the ground up. The project is a joint effort by the school, city, state, and Casa Buena Builders, Inc. According to Noel Sanchez, Casa Buena’s president, the project took almost three years to get off the ground. Funding came from multiple grants, and when the 770-square-foot home is completed later this year, the proceeds will be rolled over to seed the school’s next construction project. Managing the project and supervising the students requires collaboration. “We usually have at least one Casa Buena employee, such as a carpenter, working with the students on-site,” says Noel. “We try to help them learn what we’re doing but let them do a lot of the work. We watch for the quality of the construction so when the work is done the house will be in good shape and pass all the inspections.” PCTA carpentry teachers Ronald Carreiro and Robert DiSalvo oversee the students who alternate a week of classroom studies with a week on-site. “The kids are working on everything,” says Ronald. “They have to calculate, lay out, and cut the roof, for instance.” Working with Casa Buena facilitates the project: “As teachers, we are there teaching and directing. Casa Buena handles permits, getting lumber there on time – it’s really helpful to have a partner.” As of mid-May, the home’s roof and interior framing were finished and the students were installing siding. The project likely will carry over into the fall semester, says Noel, who wants to keep the students working in construction over the summer break. “I’m hopeful that other contractors will join me in hiring some of the students for the summer – that’s one of my big ambitions.” Contact 952-4229 for details. ProvidenceSchools.org/PCTA -Ed McCarthy

Anthony Fine Art Painting

SUMMER IN RHODE ISLAND 7 Thomas Street (The Providence Art Club) 401-419-2821 Connect@anthonytomaselli.com ProvidenceOnline.com • July 2019

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INDULGE IN

PULSE • City

Summer Fruits (and tons more)

Building Community A massive renovation transforms The Steel Yard into a year-round arts hub

Mayor Elorza tours The Steel Yard’s renovations

bagels | smoothies | fresh fruit ice cream | milkshakes | coffee & more! SUMMER HOURS Tue.-Thur. 2pm-10pm | Fri. 9am-11pm Sat. 8am-11pm | Sun. 9am-2pm Closed Mondays

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ProvidenceOnline.com • July 2019

When Howie Sneider was growing up in Syracuse, New York, he knew he was creative. He liked photography, and he had plans to go to RISD. But if he’d ever thought of becoming a sculptor, that dream felt like a dead-end; there were no teachers, no materials, no spaces for

large-scale metalworking. “I didn’t have the benefit of having a Steel Yard in my community,” says Howie, who first tried welding at a continuing education class. “It’s rare to have sculptural experience at a young age. It takes a lot of resources.” Today, Howie is a prolific sculptor – as

Photo courtesy of Phoebe Neel

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well as executive director of The Steel Yard, the industrial-scale art-making facility on the edge of Providence. An early resident artist, Howie has watched the workshop grow since the early 2000s. He knows how valuable this workspace is, not only for the 500 students who take classes there each year, but for the 10,000 visitors who attend cultural events, most famously the Halloween-themed “iron pour.” Since December, The Steel Yard has undergone a profound renovation, nicknamed the “Super Studio”: The historic building is gaining 35 percent capacity, becoming fully ADA accessible, and will replace its century-old electrical system. Workers have removed asbestos-laden materials, replaced old windows, and installed a 40KW solar array. Most importantly, The Steel Yard will gain a comprehensive heating system; instead of closing each winter, the facility can stay open all year. Classes will resume in the upgraded Super Studio this summer. “Generationally, access to building and making things was considered very vocational,” says Howie. “I think our society is getting to a new era, where we’re understanding more holistic needs in education – and in people.” The Steel Yard is an open facility, and no walls divide one tutorial from another. The staff hopes that renovations will preserve that openness, while also cutting down on the noise and distraction that can bleed across sessions. As before, multiple media skills can be practiced on the same site at the same time, including welding, blacksmithing, jewelry-making, and ceramics in the kiln yard. Many of these classes are subsidized or free. “That’s the core DNA of The Steel Yard,” says Howie. “Shared studio, shared tools. It’s very technical stuff. But we teach it through creative processes. We try to get students thinking about the possibilities.” 27 Sims Avenue, TheSteelYard.org -Robert Isenberg

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Creative financial plans designed with, and around, you.

PULSE • City

The Good Old Days A new book about 19th century Rhode Island chronicles the state’s most famous influencers

Edward Pontarelli Jr., CRPC® Financial Advisor Managing Director Beacon Point Wealth Advisors A financial advisory practice of Ameriprise Financial Services, Inc. 401.824.2532 1 Citizens Plaza, Ste 610 Providence, RI 02903 ed.pontarelli@ampf.com ameripriseadvisors.com/team/ beacon-point-wealth-advisors

Investment advisory products and services are made available through Ameriprise Financial Services, Inc., a registered investment adviser. Ameriprise Financial Services, Inc. Member FINRA and SIPC. © 2018 Ameriprise Financial, Inc.

So Many Reasons to Visit

DINING • COFFEE & COCKTAILS BOOKS & ODDITIES • JEWELRY & ANTIQUES VINTAGE CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES SALON SERVICES • SPECIAL EVENTS

65 Weybosset Street / 130 Westminster Street 454-4568 • Downcity Providence www. ArcadeProvidence.com 18

ProvidenceOnline.com • July 2019

Did Rhode Island have a Golden Age? If so, when was it? If you ask Dr. Patrick T. Conley, those halcyon days lasted nearly half a century, from 1861 to 1900, when Ocean State soldiers, reformers, architects, and industrialists helped leave a permanent mark on the national character. These are the very people he profiles in his new book, The Leaders of Rhode Island’s Golden Age, released in May from The History Press under Arcadia Publishing. “Rhode Island played a leadership role in America’s Industrial Revolution,” Dr. Conley posits in the book’s preface. “The state’s prosperity was revealed in its 1880 federal census when it ranked first in the nation in the valuation of its assessed real and personal property holdings, with a figure nearly triple the national average.” Yet Leaders is more than a rote economics

lesson. Sponsored by the Rhode Island Heritage Hall of Fame, the book chronicles the achievements of 123 influential Rhodies from the latter half of the 19th century. The book starts with Civil War veterans – or “Defenders of the Union” – and proceeds with business leaders, statesmen, artists, and athletes, among other categories. The 256 pages are rich in dates and achievements, as well as archival portraits; if Arcadia Publishing sounds familiar, they are best known for publishing the sepia-toned “Images of America” series. The book is a follow-up to Conley’s previous books, Rhode Island’s Founders and The Makers of Modern Rhode Island, which document movers and shakers from the state’s earliest years – in many cases, before we were technically a state. A Bristol resident, Dr. Conley holds a

Photography by Brandon Harmon

THE ARCADE PVD


A not-so-average history book takes you back in time to Rhode Island’s Golden Age

PhD from Notre Dame and a JD from Suffolk University Law School, and he’s served as a professor at Providence College, practiced law, and owned a real estate development business. His first book, about Catholicism in Rhode Island, was published in 1976, and he’s churned out 28 additional titles since. He’s chaired a range of organizations, including the Rhode Island Heritage Commission, which he also founded. Not surprisingly, Dr. Conley himself was inducted into the Rhode Island Heritage Hall of Fame in 1995; he now serves as president of that same organization. All this begs the question: If he continues to write such exhaustive local histories, will he one day face the task of writing about himself? We can only hope so, if only to see what he says. DrPatrickConley.org -Robert Isenberg

ProvidenceOnline.com • July 2019

19


PULSE • City

Specializing in Historic Property on the West Side, Broadway Armory District and Historic Elmwood for the past 18 years.

A City For All The new head of tourism talks about the past, present, and future of Providence “If I can get people here, this city sells itself,” says Kristen Adamo. As President and CEO of the Providence Warwick Convention and Visitors Bureau (PWCVB),

she has the important role of showing out-of-towners just how great Rhode Island, and more specifically Providence, is. Recently appointed on April 25, Kristen

Call Jane Driver 401.641.3723

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ProvidenceOnline.com • July 2019

Photo courtesy of Kristen Adamo

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has enjoyed a long and fruitful history in the bureau, serving previously as the Director of Communications, where she ran marketing strategy and was later promoted to Vice President. So, what’s in store for the year ahead? Kristen is working to make sure that the PWCVB tells the stories “of all of our community.” She’s in the process of setting up a walking tour of African American history in Providence and creating more content about local African American history on their website. “I’d like to do that with indigenous people, with our Latino community, we just want to broaden our perspective and tell stories that appeal to all Americans and all visitors.” In the 14 years that Kristen has worked for the bureau, she has been a key player in Rhode Island tourism. One particular success is that she has raised the profile on Providence’s gastronomic brand, orchestrating Providence’s own successful “Restaurant Week.” Throughout her tenure, Kristen says that “we’ve done a lot of outreach in terms of things like the LGBTQ community, we’ve built sort of a niche market promoting Providence as a great place for the gay and lesbian community. Recently, we’ve done a lot of work with promoting Providence’s neighborhoods as a diverse collection, and you can go and curate your own experience here.” Kristen also supports and oversees the hundreds of meetings, sporting events, and conventions that happen – and bring economic activity – here. There were 250 last year alone. In her new role, Kristen wields her outreach, strategy, and marketing skills to shine a light on local organizations and communities. She says that one of the most satisfying, and joyful, aspects of her job is that she’s “really, really proud to help people with their small businesses.” GoProvidence.com -Isabella DeLeo

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Wednesday Bumper Car Racing 5:00PM-10:00PM

Thursday Roller Skating 5:00PM-10:00PM

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Adult Sport Leagues

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Bumper cars are off the ice and on the track. Enjoy friendly competition in our racing series.

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Outdoor local beer garden, lawn games, music, volleyball, bumper cars, and more.

Schedule your summer event: Dates available from April-October. 2 Kennedy Plaza 401.680.7390 theprovidencerink.com ProvidenceOnline.com • July 2019

21


PULSE • Year of the City (branded partnership)

Exhibitions Performances Storytelling Lectures Walks Conferences

events in Providence neighborhoods Visit YearOfTheCity.com for a full calendar of events @YOTCProvidence2019 22

ProvidenceOnline.com • July 2019

Back to the Future Special program at FringePVD highlights the old and new Olneyville Six years ago, Josh Short, artistic director of the Wilbury Theater Group, got together with Michael Gennaro, then-executive director of Trinity Rep. Conversation turned to the fact that there were no local outlets that celebrated the work of independent performing artists – so they created one. The first Providence Fringe Festival was held over the course of a week in July 2013 in five different venues and featured 25 local performing artists. Since then, FringePVD has grown as artists from New York, greater New England, and even states as far flung as Alaska and Hawaii have submitted applications to participate. This July, FringePVD presents a special program, The Olneyville Expo: A Chautauqua-style Celebration of Olneyville Past, Present, and Future under a revival tent in Donigian Park. It will include performances about the history of Olneyville and its indigenous and industrial heritage, the arts and music scene of the 1980s and ‘90s, the water and creatures of the Woonasquatucket River, plus film, live music, and interviews with current and

longtime residents of the neighborhood. Hosted by actor Phoenyx Williams, each evening will end in a dance party. Created by James Stanley, Darcie Dennigan, and Jesse Hawley, The Olneyville Expo... is presented by The Wilbury Theatre Group with support from the Providence Department of Art, Culture and Tourism and the Woonasquatucket River Greenway Arts Project, the Rhode Island Council for the Humanities, and the Rhode Island Foundation. FringePVD runs from July 22-27 with an opening party on July 22. Performances of The Olneyville Expo are July 25, 26, and 27. Visit FringePVD.org for more information. Year of the City: The Providence Project is an unprecedented year-long exploration of the history, life, and culture of Providence’s 25 neighborhoods through exhibitions, walks, lectures, and conferences produced by 50+ different curators. Together, these projects reveal new stories and new ways of thinking about the city we love. YearOfTheCity.com


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PULSE • Rhody Gem

Nikki’s Liquors Liquor Store

SEA FOOD

We’re on the hunt for Rhody Gems! Every neighborhood has that secret, hidden, cool and unusual, or hole-in-the-wall spot that locals love. Email or tag us on social media using #RhodyGem to suggest yours, and we might just feature it!

SEA FRIENDS

What it is: A fairly large liquor store with an eclectic assortment of wine, spirits, and an expansive selection of craft beers.

SEA VIEW

Where to find it: On Branch Avenue next to the firestation, just before the entrance to the highway. The back end of the building faces the space of the old Benny’s. Look out for a big brick building with various neon beer logo signs. There is a parking lot to the left for your convenience.

What makes it a Rhody Gem? If you are a spirit/brew connoisseur of any kind, this is the place for you. The store is large enough to house the largest selections of American and imported craft beer in Rhode Island. Nikki’s also hosts tastings and special events throughout the year!

40 Ocean Road Narragansett 401.789.0700 thecoastguardhouse.com 24

ProvidenceOnline.com • July 2019

Nikki’s Liquors 32 Branch Avenue, Providence 861-9006 NikkisLiquors.com


BE

Photography by Brandon Harmon

BE

To submit your Rhody Gem, please email Elyse@ProvidenceOnline.com

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(PRESS)ed A Podcast About the Media, Fake News, and the Future of Our Democracy Listeners, please fill out our survey at: https://www.surveymonkey.com/r/Pressed_Survey

6 Episodes

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Listen as two neighbors in South Kingstown with differing political views start honest conversations. Join the audience as Pulitzer-winning journalists, newspaper publishers, and professors discuss the value of journalism for a free society. Consider the implications of communal thought processes with a cognitive scientist at Brown University; and listen in on a high school class in Narraganset as they evaluate the legitimacy of online news sources and the implications of "fake news" for the strength of our democracy.

BROUGHT TO YOU BY: #HUMCITIZEN @rihumanities @ThePublicsRadio 28

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Listen to the full series at rihumanities.org, thepublicsradio.org, iTunes, and SoundCloud. You can also catch clips of the podcast on The Public's Radio: 89.3FM, 88.1FM, and 102.7FM

"Democracy and the Informed Citizen" is a project of the Federation of State Humanities Councils. We thank The Andrew W. Mellon Foundation for their generous support of this initiative and the Pulitzer Prizes for their partnership.


the

Plant-Based city The capital is flourishing – with urban gardens, farmers markets, and locally sourced menus

By Robert Isenberg Photography by Wolf Matthewson

Deanna Lockard, Rob Yaffe, andJon Dille of The Grange at Southside Community Farm

Imagine a green future. Gardens on every city corner! Bright markets packed with local produce! State-of-the-art greenhouses for year-round cultivation! Restaurants that not only serve earth-friendly food, but transform seasonal ingredients into works of art! It sounds like a pipe dream, yet that future isn’t distant. It’s not even theoretical. Many of these things are already here. Blueprints have been drawn. Ground has been broken. Visionary new venues are about to spring open. Indeed, Providence is greener than most people realize; it’s teeming with growers and grocers, rural farmers and urban cultivators, organizers, laborers, delivery drivers, cashiers, and chefs. Our neighborhoods are robust with community gardens and farmers markets. Until now, passersby might not have noticed that other, verdant world. But our collective awareness is changing, fast. “So much of culture revolves around food,” said Mayor Jorge Elorza, during a speech at the Edible Providence event in May. “Providence has been out in the forefront of integrating urban agriculture [with] thoughtful city planning… to combat diet-related chronic disease, reduce the amount of vacant or under-utilized land around the city, cut down on wasted food, and also strengthen local soils through composting – and catalyzing, of course, economic development at the citywide and neighborhood level.” This is not just a trendy pastime. There is a nutrient-rich paradigm shift in our city. Here are some of the trailblazers of this tasty new movement, and the many ways they are transforming our health, economy, and urban landscape.


Rendering of Farm Fresh RI’s new Food Hub

Buying the Farm Farm Fresh Rhode Island started with an apple. Or, rather, not an apple. In the early 2000s, Louella Hill and Noah Fulmer were students at Brown University, and they wanted to find an apple that was grown in the state. Considering how many local orchards there are, the task proved surprisingly difficult. “They were dismayed that they couldn’t find a Rhode Island-grown apple,” says Lucie Searle, a project manager at Farm Fresh RI. “This was the impetus. Our organization is all about connecting people who live and work here with the farms in the area.” That seed germinated fast. In only 15 years, Farm Fresh has grown from an offbeat idea into a household name. The Pawtucket-based nonprofit oversees 10 different farmers markets, many of them in low-income neighborhoods. They send nutrition educators to schools and community centers. They developed “Fresh

Bucks,” a special coin system that helps farmers sell products without credit card machines; thanks to grants, the exchange rate is doubled for food stamps, encouraging low-income families to buy local. They created Market Mobile, an “aggregation network” that connects over 100 regional farmers to more than 300 wholesale customers across New England; clients can order fresh produce directly from farmers, and Farm Fresh will use up to six trucks to deliver these items the very next day. Deliveries take place from Boston to Narragansett, and clients include everything from restaurants to college campuses. “People want to know where their food comes from, they want to know who grows it, and they want to know how it’s grown,” says Lucie. “There’s a willingness to pay a little bit more to support that.” Farm Fresh RI is currently headquartered in Hope Artiste Village, the mixed-use industrial building on the edge of Pawtucket. Farm Fresh’s popular Winter Market also takes place here during the colder months.

People want where their from, they know who


Fresh produce at Armory Park Farmers Market

to know food comes want to grows it Lucie Searle

A project manager at Farm Fresh RI

But even this massive structure, with its voluminous corridors and two loading docks, isn’t enough to support the 70 to 80 farmers who display each winter week. “We have been very happy at Hope Artiste Village,” says Lucie. “But nothing in this facility was purpose-built. Nothing is in the right place. When people come to visit us, they usually get lost. So we asked ourselves: ‘Where do we want to be 10 years from now?’ We have to have a facility that matches what we’re doing.” Enter the Food Hub, a sprawling, yearround farmer’s market that will break ground this summer. With a construction budget of $15.5 million, the Food Hub will provide new office and commercial space – but more importantly, it’s the culmination of everything Farm Fresh RI has been trying to accomplish, from empowering small farms to revitalizing urban Providence. On every level, the Hub seems to mend an existing problem: The new building will stand on 3.2 acres of “brown fields,” which

Locally made bread at Armory Park Farmers Market

have stood vacant for years. Its location is the Valley neighborhood, an industrial corridor along the Woonasquatucket River, which is already home to the WaterFire Arts Center and the expanded Steel Yard. A new pedestrian bridge will span the river, encouraging visitors to park, walk, shop, and experience this burgeoning arts district. When the facility opens in 2021, its 60,000 square feet will be dedicated to markets, production rooms, offices, and classrooms. Local food businesses will be able to rent space – the perfect spot for prep-shops and catering companies. The result isn’t just a healthier local economy, but better consumer awareness. “If you were to go to Chez Pascal tonight,” says Lucie, referring to the acclaimed French eatery on Hope Street, “Kristin and Matt [Genuso] could tell you what farm the carrots came from. They could tell you what port the fishing boats are based in, the captains of the boat, and when the fish was caught. In the industry, that’s called traceability.”


A rendering of Southside Community Land Trust’s new facility

Garden Leader Doug Victor at Peace & Plenty Garden off Broad Street


SPEED THE PLOUGHS “We didn’t make a garden,” says Margaret DeVos, executive director of the Southside Community Land Trust. “The garden made this.” If you’re not looking for the Land Trust, it’s easy to miss. The organization is based in a former Victorian house on Somerset Street. On warm days, the cramped kitchen opens onto a deck, which opens onto gardens. The conference room is barely big enough to seat all the Trust’s board members. Yet from these humble lodgings, the Trust manages 53 sites – community gardens and production farms – across the city. “The way it evolved,” says Margaret, “the community gardens got full. There used to be a twoto-three-year waiting list. Because people are good at gardening. And there’s this thing called the local food movement. People don’t just want fresh, healthy, and affordable food, but certain kinds of foods – sweet potato grains, certain kinds of water grains, long beans, bitter melon, bitter eggplant, cilantro, scallions.” The Land Trust is surprisingly mature, dating back to 1981. At the time, suburban flight had leached the Southside of its middle-class population, and scores of residences were abandoned or torn down. The neighborhood also flooded with refugees, many of them Hmong families from Southeast Asia, who were eager for soil to sow. Again, several Brown students became involved, as well as community leaders. Together, they converted an abandoned lot into the Somerset Garden. Thirty-eight years later, that garden is still thriving. Cultivators of all skill levels can plant seeds, grow crops, and walk away with bushels of fresh

This isn’t just about food, or plants, It’s about people and communities. Margaret DeVos

Executive Director of the Southside Community Land Trust

produce, to use however they wish. The majority of growers are still immigrants, and SCLT claims that 25 languages are spoken regularly among the beds. Each garden is a mishmash of tarps, furrows, tomato cages, and steaming mounds of compost. On a sunny summer day, these gated rectangles are so lush and aromatic that it’s easy to forget they were once trash-strewn lots – dead spaces that demolished buildings left behind. Most of these gardens and farms aren’t very large; the 53 sites cover only 32 acres in total. But the social effects are profound. SCLT is finalizing its own new facility – 404 Broad Street, a renovated structure that stands a few blocks from the Trust’s current offices. The crumbling old building has a storied past, first as a livery, later as a row of small shops. By the spring of 2021, however, the address should buzzing with activity. The project is part of SCLT’s “Grow!” campaign, the $2.2 million project will provide 12,000 square feet for offices, stores, classrooms, and USDA-approved production facilities. The block itself is adjacent to Trinity Square, and it’s familiar territory; just outside, SCLT has managed the Youth Enterprise Farm for years. On that parcel, fledgling farmers have been learning the art and business of modern tillage, promising a fresh new generation. “This isn’t just about food, or plants,” says Margaret. “It’s about people and communities. When people have access to land and other assets of the food system, people can figure out how to feed their communities. It’s when they don’t have control over it that we don’t access the fresh foods that are going to keep us healthy.”

ProvidenceOnline.com • July 2019

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“We’re reaching a whole different phase of integration into the American diet,” says Robert Yaffe, owner of Wildflour Bakery, The Garden Grille, and The Grange – all popular plant-based eateries. “We’re in the middle of a major shift. It’s not just what you eat, but where are you getting it from?” Robert has been promoting nutrition and plant-based victuals for decades. Long before seitan barbecues and farm-to-table bistros, the Yaffes were boldly extolling the virtues of smart, responsible sustenance. Robert, that legacy began with his grandmother, Reggie Jaffe, who converted to a raw-food diet in 1941. She was a woman far ahead of her time: Reggie experimented with different foods, avoided all pharmaceuticals, and practiced yoga. In 1971, Reggie’s daughter Erna established a health food store, The Golden Sheaf, with her husband Bert Yaffe. “When we opened,” recalls Robert, “it was considered alternative. What we’ve always done, since the beginning, is try to appeal to the broadest possible market, to make it accessible. We created a place for community.”

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Owner of Wildflour Bakery, The Garden Grille, and The Grange

Robert is no longer an outlier – to put it mildly. Just as countless commercial kitchens are absorbing local and organic ingredients, celebrity chef Matthew Kenney has just opened the Plant City, a two-story “vegan food hall,” on Water Street. Customers can pick from several restaurants, shop at a plantbased grocery, order a cocktail at the bar, or sit at any of 225 seats. Seeing an explosion local demand, New Yorkbased Gotham Greens is also constructing a colossal new greenhouse on Harris Avenue; the new facility will incorporate 110,000 square feet, and the company plans to grow 10 million heads of organic lettuce and leafy vegetables each year. The structure will rise around the corner from the Food Hub, also a stone’s throw from the Woonasquatucket River. Meanwhile, the Urban Greens Co-Op Market just opened at the end of June, introducing customer-owned groceries to the West End. “We’re really at this quantum leap point in our culture, regarding plant-based,” says Robert. “It’s going into hyper-drive. Right now, our focus is to make better what we are already doing.” Now, just watch it all grow.

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ProvidenceOnline.com • July 2019


LIFE & STYLE Home • Influencer • Shop • Whole Body SHOP

by Elyse Major • photography by Brandon Harmon

Blue Plate Special To live in the Ocean State is to be a relatively short distance from any waterway – be it bay, pond, river, lake, or the Atlantic. While not every resident outfits their home with anchor motifs and dried sea stars, there’s an undeniable shoreline vibe in the air. Feel inspired to assemble a tablescape of watery blues, using pieces by local artists and drawing from a shoreline palette.

• Kristin Crane Textiles KristinCrane.com • Michelle Phaneuf Ceramics Michelle Phaneuf Ceramics on Facebook and Instagram • Rising Sun Earthworks RisingSunEarthworks.com • The Little Clay Studio TheLittleClayStudio.com • Three Wheel Studio ThreeWheelStudio.com

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ProvidenceOnline.com • July 2019


LIFE & STYLE • Influencer

by Jackie Ignall

Ben and Aja Blanc Furniture and Interior Designers Aja says: I like casual-classics paired with statement moments, such as red lips or bold earrings. I care about comfort, texture, and the longevity of clothing. I like fabrics that last and stand up to design work in the studio or being home with our young daughters, such as denim, linen, and sustainable wool. I own a lot of jumpsuits and love them for their ease, but also architectural shape. I would rather buy a really well-made piece secondhand before purchasing something new that won’t last. Running our own furniture design company (BenandAjaBlanc.com) definitely influences our clothing choices. Design and fashion are both so aspirational. The things we live with and wear reflect the way we want to move in the world. Also, as a small business making well-made limited edition pieces, I really love and respect small fashion houses making thoughtful, sustainable clothing. We are able to focus and make our work within an inspiring community of colleagues while also giving energy to what inspires our own creativity – being outside, the water, being with family. My perfect day is working in the studio and then grabbing a beach blanket for oysters and champagne on the beach.”

Photography by Wolf Matthewson

Ben says: “My style is basic but intentional. I like well-made, straightforward pieces that create a foundation. I can toss on a pair of sneakers, a hat, or maybe some sunglasses to round out the look. I’m obsessed with my Izipizi blue sunglasses that I acquired from Island Boy in Warren. I get a lot of inspiration from Instagram for collecting visual input. Also surf culture, nature, the ocean, surfer publications. I love looking at fine art and vintage portraits of artists like Donald Judd and Rauschenberg. We’re able to work hard and play hard here. After a day of work, we can end up in Little Compton or at Moonstone Beach with friends for a sunset and a swim. The city is ideally located, too. We can access New York City when we need to, but can also totally get lost in the energy of Providence.

ProvidenceOnline.com • July 2019

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LIFE & STYLE • Home

by Robert Isenberg

First Impressions

Photos by Deb Cohen

The Front Door Project highlights the entries to historic Rhode Island homes

Wreaths, mats, sconces, transoms, carvings, arches, and iron hinges – if you can use it to decorate an entryway, Deb Cohen has photographed it. A few years ago, Deb started The Front Door Project as an Instagram hobby, thinking her affection for New England doorways was rare. Now, over 1,300 photographs later, Deb has a website, 67,000+ followers, and many, many pictures of Providence. “I really enjoy spending time in Providence,” she says. Deb started the project in her native Connecticut, but the site

ProvidenceOnline.com • July 2019

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Experience. Integrity. Results.

LIFE & STYLE • Home

by Robert Isenberg

gave her a reason to roam. “The Downcity and College Hill neighborhoods in particular are spots I admire for the architectural variety and history. Rhode Island is fortunate to have a large inventory of historic architecture in places where anyone can see it, such as Benefit Street in Providence or the various neighborhoods in Newport. Both of those areas are compact and very walkable, and make you feel like you have gone back in time 200 years.”

Deb asserts that most of the architecture in Rhode Island is consistent with design patterns across New England, yet each antique home asserts its own individuality. “In general, historic houses were not cookie cutter, as so many new houses are from the 1950s and subsequent. Every home truly is unique in its own way, whether it be the setting, materials used, size and scale, or architectural details utilized.” TheFrontDoorProject.com

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The front door of a home is interesting to me when it makes a visual impact. Its architecture alone might make a statement, but a front door especially stands out when the homeowner makes an effort to create a welcoming focal point through their use of color, hardware, and a bit of whimsy such as a fun door knocker or unique wreath. - Deb Cohen

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LIFE & STYLE • Whole Body

by Lauren Vella

New Heights

The act of climbing brings back childhood memories – of scaling a tree in my uncle’s backyard and the satisfaction of “sticking the landing” once I decided I’d had enough. Those were the days when you didn’t realize that this could actually be considered exercise. And trust me, it is exercise. I parked my car in the lot on a rainy night outside of Rock Spot on the West Side of Providence. Luckily, I wasn’t going to brave the heights of the rock wall alone; my friend Sarah and her husband Tory (who are avid climbers) met me at the gym. Inside, I approached the front desk to check in and get my rock climbing shoes. The shoes were snug, but the staff assured me that as long as they weren’t uncomfortable, this was the proper fitting to prevent slippage on the wall. Once I secured all of my personal belongings

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in the cubbies that flank the front desk, it was time to begin my indoor expedition. Rock Spot in Providence is just a bouldering gym. This means that the walls are lower, and you are not attached to a harness, not fixed into the ground with ropes. For a novice, the frontier of a rock gym might appear extremely simple – all you have to do is climb, right? How hard could it be? I learned quickly that bouldering is far from easy. Yes, the big, colorful handholds are there, but it takes great physical and mental strength to heave yourself up a wall knowing that there aren’t any ropes to support you. The routes are labeled by color and difficulty. If you have any questions, the staff is more than happy to help you determine which paths are best suited for your level of experience. Following both the advice of the staff and my friends, I started out with a very easy

Photography by Mike Braca

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one as a warm up and worked my way up to the intermediate routes. Rock climbing is also a mental puzzle. There’s strategy to ascending the plywood structure – it’s best to look at the entire route beforehand and plan out which holds will lead you best up the wall. Adrenaline junkies and acrophobics (those with a fear of heights) alike would probably agree that there is something joyful about reaching the top of a route that you’ve mastered. I left Rock Spot that night with chalky hands, sore arms, and a sense of accomplishment.

TIPS FOR CLIMBING AT ROCK SPOT Chalk It Up: Rock Spot offers chalk with its shoe rental, and for those who don’t have their own supply, it’s best to take advantage of it. Chalk creates more friction and grip between the skin of your hand and the holds and dries out your palms so that you’re less likely to slip when you sweat.

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Don’t Be Intimidated: It’s easy to see people moving up a wall like Spider-Man and feel self-conscious about your own abilities. If you’re newer to the climbing scene, take it slow. Your strength and know-how will catch up. After all, it’s supposed to be fun! Take Rests: Several times during my night bouldering, I would try a difficult route only to slip or get tired halfway up. When this happens, give your arms and legs a break, take a seat, get some water, and watch other climbers to see what they’re doing. That way, you won’t risk injuring yourself on your second try.

Rock Spot Providence 42 Rice Street • 217-2772 Providence.RockSpotClimbing.com

ProvidenceOnline.com • July 2019

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FOOD & DRINK In the Kitchen • Food News • Experience • Restaurant Guide

BEERFOOT IN THE PARK Trinity Brewhouse’s beer garden amps up Biltmore Garden in downtown Providence How many things can you do, beer in-hand? How about cornhole? A leisurely stroll? People watching on a picnic bench? What about Bumper cars? That, we admit, might get a bit messy depending on your etiquette and zeal for aggressive bumping. But, while that might be a provocative, dangerous question to ask, Trinity Beer Garden in Biltmore Park tasks passersby with this challenge. Trinity Brewhouse’s newest addition to the downtown scene has made your urban park experience that much more enjoyable. Stroll into Biltmore Park’s little patch of green on a Friday summer afternoon, and you’ll find Trinity Brewhouse’s draught beer cart parked in front of a hut-like kiosk. The operation that the famed Providence brewhouse set up looks a bit make-shift, but after that first sip of artisanal New England brew, you’re so thankful they’re there. Try anything from draft to can, wine to cider, and then take

a walk in the space. The beer garden was originally established to celebrate Trinity’s 25 years of brewing beer in Rhode Island, open Wednesday through Saturday until early October. Says owner Josh Miller, “I’m excited to have this opportunity to celebrate 25 years of Trinity Brewhouse while adding to the vibrancy of the commercial and cultural life of downtown Providence.We hope that residents and visitors will enjoy what we have to offer.” The beer garden does more than provide customers with enjoyment, it brings the Providence community closer together. Patrons can be seen talking with one another over a drink or sharing corn hole sandbags and stations on the fake turf. So, the next time you’re in the area, stop by and grab a brew. Who knows what will happen? Biltmore Park, TrinityBrewhouse.com/Beer-Garden. -Lauren Vella

Photo courtesy of Trinity Brewhouse ProvidenceOnline.com • July 2019

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FOOD & DRINK • Experience

by Stephanie Obodda

A Big Impression Maria’s Cucina serves classic Italian fare in a stately Federal Hill mansion

Rabe e Salsicce, Fresh Burrata, and Steak alla Mama

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oldest Italian club in America, predating the house by a year. I imagine they are proud to host Maria’s Cucina, which has a thoughtful menu and carefully prepared dishes. The restaurant’s name speaks to Providence history as well: Maria was owner Greg Costantino’s mother. Born in Federal Hill in the 1920s, she raised her seven sons in the neighborhood. Fondly remembering her Sunday dinners, owners Greg and Chris named the restaurant in her honor. Our party of four started with two appetizers. The Fresh Burrata starter paired the cheese with Prosciutto di Parma and marinated artichokes. I was very impressed by the Involtini di Melanzane, eggplant rolled up with smoked mozzarella and prosciutto, finished

with a filetto di pomodoro sauce. It was hearty, balanced, and I would have eaten the whole plate myself. The menu here is organized the true Italian way, with appetizers, a pasta course, and a non-pasta entree. We followed this model, but if you’d rather skip one of the courses and have a pasta as your main, I’m sure you won’t be judged harshly. We split two pasta dishes as a first course, and I could even imagine splitting one among four people with smaller appetites. The Linguine Puttanesca is a classic, with all the saltiness of olives, capers, and anchovies in the tomato-based sauce. We also enjoyed the Ravioli Sopressa, a typical cheese-filled ravioli

Photography by Mike Braca

Ambiance is a difficult thing to manufacture. Maria’s Cucina got a head start by moving into one of Providence’s most beautiful mansions – the Italo-American Club on Broadway. The palatial 1897 house is replete with historical details like hand-painted bird fireplace tiles, wood-framed mirrors at least twice my height, coffered ceilings, attractive stained glass, and original murals the current restaurateurs discovered behind wallpaper. With each floor around 3,000 square feet and two levels of dining, eating here feels like being invited to a massive Victorian dinner party. It would have been a great day to sit on the porch, but how could I forgo these surroundings? The Italo-American Club is possibly the


Affettato Misto Di Salumi, Calamari Modena Fritti, Shrimp Scampi with Scallops, Fresh Tomatoes and Spinach

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topped with sage. Plenty of Italian wine is available by the glass or bottle at a reasonable price. We enjoyed the Prunotto Fiulot Barbera and the Coltibuono Centamura Chianti. For our secondi (main entree), two of us ordered veal dishes. The Marsala, a manageable portion with a flavorful sauce, was served with a side of vegetables and roasted potato wedges. The Veal Milanese is basically an Italian version of the Austrian schnitzel, pounded, breaded, and fried. The side of lemony arugula salad contrasted nicely. We also enjoyed a special, a sliced chicken breast roll on fregola pasta, which looks similar to Israeli couscous. From an earlier lunch visit, we knew dinner must end with one of the marvelous cannoli. This is one of the best cannoli I’ve eaten, even compared to those in Boston’s North End or New York’s Little Italy.

CUISINE: Italian PRICES: Appetizers $8-$28, Entrees $16 - $28 ATMOSPHERE: Victorian mansion

Must-Try Items Involtini Di Melanzane Prosciutto Di Parma, smoked mozzarella, and sliced eggplant, rolled and finished in the oven with Filetto Di Pomodoro

Trollbeads Day

Every story has a bead

Chicken or Veal Marsala Tender medallions lightly floured and sautéed with shallots in a rich marsala mushroom reduction

Cannoli Shell of fried pastry dough with a creamy ricotta filling and chocolate chips

It would be easy for this new restaurant to impress with setting alone, but the menu holds its own. Maria’s Cucina is a perfect venue for Italian food on Federal Hill if you prefer a quieter dinner to the bustle of Atwells Avenue, and a fitting place to impress an out-oftown guest.

Maria’s Cucina 477 Broadway, Providence • 528-1111 MariasCucina.com

Twice Told Tales 2145 Broad Street, Cranston 785-9599 • TwiceToldTalesRI.com ProvidenceOnline.com • July 2019

49


IT’S MORE

FUN

AT THE FLATS!

FOOD & DRINK • Food News

Let’s Be Frank The beloved Saugy turns 150

Sophisticated Outdoor

SOLAR LANTERNS for your Backyard

kreatelier.com 50

ProvidenceOnline.com • July 2019

The Saugy hot dog is a point of pride for many Rhode Islanders. Its rich and distinct taste, formerly only available in the Ocean State, gives many an excuse to brag about our little home. This year, the beloved summertime favorite turns 150. Augustus and Alphonse Saugy – German immigrants who came to Rhode Island through Ellis Island – introduced their hot dog to a state that looked very different than it does today. The two would deliver their products from the production house on Canal Street by way of horse and buggy, hooves clamoring on then cobblestone streets, going door-to-door to sell the franks in white cardboard boxes with black lettering. The Saugy is Rhode Island’s first hot dog, but it’s also one of our best kept secrets. Few people outside of the state are familiar with the product. To many, it’s so irreplaceable, so quintessential, that nostalgic former Rhode Islanders often order them to bring back to their home. The current owner, Mary O’Brien, says she frequently ships five or 10 pounds of Saugys overnight to customers across the country. One man in particular ordered the hot dogs for his ailing mom on Mother’s Day. It is certainly not easy keeping a business

afloat for 150 years, but smart leadership, modern technology, and most importantly, the loyalty of Rhode Islanders preserve this iconic food item. Over the years, the company has overseen the adoption of modern manufacturing technology, transitioning from a sawdust smoking process to a liquid smoke in their USDA and SQF-approved facility. Saugy Inc. recently introduced a skinless recipe (more like a ballpark frank) alongside the classic natural casing recipe, which provides that distinctive “snap” when you bite into it, similar to a sausage. Some locals recoil at the idea of eating a skinless. As Mary says, “Rhode islanders are very loyal to their brand.” The original Saugy still reigns supreme. What’s next for this historic company? Mary says that she is planning on bringing back Saugy “Buckies” (bratwurst), alongside their own brands of relish, spicy mustard, and New England-style bun. She’s also working on takingthe Saugy to additional locations in Florida. Saugy dogs can be found everywhere in Rhode Island, but The Tavern on the Hill in West Greenwich serves up the largest Saugy menu, with 20 different recipes like the “Mac & Cheese” dog, the “Thanksgiving” and “The Cuban.” Saugys.com -Isabella DeLeo

Photo courtesy of Saugys

355 Hope StreeT, Providence 401.751.6777 • tortillaflatsri.com


KOW KOW FOOD TRUCK BRINGS ICE CREAM AND WAFFLES TO WATERMAN STREET

“Allow the radiance of freedom to teach the children to run with glee in a neighborhood in need.” - Africia Ben

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Photo courtesy of Kow Kow Foods

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In a crowded coffee shop on College Hill, 22-year-old entrepreneur Vilada Khammahavong describes her original vision for her business. “I really wanted my customers to feel like the food that I was giving them is something I would give to my friends,” she says with the same gusto and energy that fuels her one-woman show that is her little black food truck. Kow Kow’s foodstuff is almost Suessian – fresh waffles with globular bubbles wrapped around flower-shaped, pastel-colored scoops of ice cream filling (with fruit toppings, of course!). This food sparks intense internal conflict; you don’t know whether you want to stuff your gob upon receipt or save it for a perfect Instagram shot in front of your favorite cityscape. Originally, Kow Kow was supposed to offer a Lao soup native to the Southeast Asian country. But after Vilada discovered that selling soup out of a food truck would be too difficult, she refocused her business plan on another one of her childhood favorites.

“The waffles I actually grew up eating in Boston, but I knew nowhere in Rhode Island had them...I saw that it was becoming a really big trend to make these waffles and put ice cream in them.” So, she jumped on the waffle train and brought the playful dessert to Providence. As a native Rhode Islander, Vilada feels it is important to support other local businesses. The waffles are made by Vilada herself, but the ice cream is sourced from Warwick Ice Cream. As the CEO and only employee, the youthful owner admits that the food truck life is a grind, but she hopes that her hard work will pay off. Vilada’s dream is to have a more sedentary work week in her own brick-and-mortar store. But for now, Kow Kow is working on putting flavored tea items on its menu and collaborating with other food trucks to serve city-goers different waffle combinations. Find Kow Kow parked near 85 Waterman Street, Providence, Wednesday-Saturday from 5-9pm and Sunday from 1-5pm. KowKowFood.com. -Lauren Vella

ProvidenceOnline.com • July 2019

51


The Sunday Table $

48

SUNDAY THREE-COURSE MENU

Food & Drink • In The Kitchen

by Lauren Vella

Food, Minus The B.S. Chef Ben Sukle plays to his strengths, making food that’s delicious

Slow Down & Savor The Moment with Slow-Roasted Beef Tenderloin

— LOBBY LEVEL OMNI HOTEL —

One West Exchange Street, Providence 533.9000 • FlemingsSteakhouse.com

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Wed-Fri 11-6 • Sat & Sun 10-4 | Mon & Tues by Appointment 52

ProvidenceOnline.com • July 2019

At six-foot-something, Chef Ben Sukle presents himself as an intimidating physical presence. He gives off an urban-lumberjack vibe with long-ish hair, wild blue eyes, a beard, and the quintessential flannel/jeans combination. His demeanor exudes a kind of confidence one acquires after having success (two popular Rhode Island restaurants and multiple James Beard Award Nominations). Still, self-assuredness and all, it was hard for the chef to articulate the message he wants to convey when diners eat his food at his restaurants, birch and Oberlin. But after some time, he came up

with a simple answer: “I know it’s delicious.” The son of Pennsylvanian publishers and journalists, Ben was always encouraged to follow his passion, even if it led down a creative, “unstable” path. Their only stipulation was that whatever he did, he made sure he did it well. The chef recalls there was nothing that piqued his interest in high school except for photography, but after contemplating the field he “psyched himself out of it.” Kitchens appealed to the then-teenage Ben because he knew he could find work in the profession at a young age. His culinary experience in high school prompted the budding chef to pursue

Photography by Brandon Harmon

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an education at Johnson & Wales University, and later, to open his own restaurants. Dine at one of Ben’s spots and you’ll find the food and drink selections very specific and deliberate. At Oberlin, there’s an eclectic menu of pasta, local raw and cooked whole fish, and other small Italian plates. But, drag your attention to the drinks side of the page, and you’ll find Japanese sake and beer mixed in with domestic brews, imported wine, and an assortment of cider. This defining feature is not by accident. The chef remarks that it’s easy to get caught up catering to a certain demographic’s culinary tastes, but that running your business this way is a recipe for disaster. Providence is a “transient city,” the population recycling defined by the colleges in the area. The majority of people who come into his eateries are young adults or older Rhode Islanders who have been here most of their lives. The restaurateur has a very clear vision of the cuisine he wants to serve his customers that plays to his strengths, and no, he won’t play any other man’s game. “You need to create a food that you know you’re good at...If you don’t do something that you know you’re good at, then you’re just playing the other man’s game. And you’re always going to lose the other man’s game.” At Oberlin, his “game” is pastas, raw fish, and sake, but at birch, his game is a narrative – a story about food production and preparation in Rhode Island told through a dining experience. “There’s a lot of work that goes into this food, there’s a lot of work that goes into growing this food. So, this food that gets presented in front of you is 100 percent going to be a passion project from the farmer to the chefs to the servers.” All of these things – the food’s story, the unorthodox pairings, the raw fish, his love and passion for local ingredients– are what Ben Sukle knows. And he wants to educate Rhode Islanders about it.

Oberlin 186 Union Street, Providence • 588-8755

An Authentic experience in the heart of the City

Operating 7 days and evenings a week

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One Citizens Plaza, Providence / 401-421-8877 for more information & booking Visit

gondolari.com

ProvidenceOnline.com • July 2019

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RESTAURANT GUIDE Key: B breakfast Br brunch L lunch D dinner $ under 10 $$ 10–20 $$$ 20+

F E AT U R E D R E S TA U R A N T

The Grange

166 Broadway, Providence 831-0600, ProvidenceGrange.com

Celebrate 25 years

of Trinity Brewhouse with us at our new downtown beer garden 2 Kennedy Plaza Biltmore Park, Providence RI

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PROVIDENCE AREA 10 Prime Steak & Sushi Fashionable prime steakhouse with award-winning sushi. 55 Pine St, Providence, 453-2333. LD $$$ Caserta Pizzeria Casual kid-friendly pizza spot offering traditional Italian crisp-cut pizza and calzones. 121 Spruce St, Providence, 621-3818. LD $-$$ CAV Eclectic cuisine and art in a historic setting. 14 Imperial Place, Providence, 751-9164. BrLD $$-$$$ Chapel Grille Gourmet food overlooking the Providence skyline. 3000 Chapel View Blvd, Cranston, 944-4900. BrLD $$$ Character’s Cafe & Theatre Hybrid art space with all-day breakfast, coffee, and theaterinspired entrees. 82 Rolfe Sq, Cranston, 4909475. BL $

54

ProvidenceOnline.com • July 2019

Don Jose Tequilas Restaurant Homestyle Mexican fare plus beer, wine, and cocktails in a colorful setting. 351 Atwells Ave, Providence, 454-8951. LD $-$$ Harry’s Bar & Burger Called the “Best Burger in America” by CNN. Over 50 craft beers. 121 N Main St, Providence, 228-7437; 301 Atwells Ave, 228-3336. LD $-$$ Haruki Japanese cuisine and a la carte selections with casual ambience. Locations in Cranston and Providence, HarukiSushi. com. LD $-$$ Joe Marzelli’s Old Canteen Italian Restaurant High-end Italian restaurant serving up specialty dishes and drinks. 120 Atwells Ave, Providence. 751-5544. LD $$$ Julian’s A must-taste Providence staple celebrating more than 20 years. 318 Broadway, Providence, 861-1770. BBrLD $$


Luigi’s Restaurant & Gourmet Express Handmade Italian classics and prepared foods to go. 1457 Hartford Ave, Johnston, 455-0045. LD $$ Luxe Burger Bar Build Your Own Burger: You dream it, we build it! 5 Memorial Blvd, Providence, 621-5893. LD $ Parkside Rotisserie & Bar American bistro specializing in rotisserie meats. 76 South Main St, Providence, 331-0003. LD $-$$ Pizza J Fun, upbeat atmosphere with thin-crust pizza, pub fare, and gluten-free options. 967 Westminster St, Providence, 632-0555. LD $-$$ Red Stripe Casual French-American bistro. 465 Angell St, Providence, 437-6950; 455 Main St, East Greenwich, 398-2900. BrLD $$ Siena Impeccable Italian cuisine. Locations in Providence, East Greenwich, and Smithfield, 521-3311. D $$-$$$ Sydney Providence Australian-inspired cafe and coffee shop featuring breakfast and light lunch options. 400 Exchange St, Providence, 648-4994. BL $-$$

High End Color Printing Signs & Banners Wide Format Presentation Materials Mailing Services

The Salted Slate An agri-driven American restaurant with global influences. 186 Wayland Ave, Providence, 270-3737. BrLD $$-$$$ Tortilla Flats Fresh Mexican, Cajun, and Southwestern fare, cocktails, and over 70 tequilas. 355 Hope St, Providence, 751-6777. LD $-$$

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Twin Oaks Family restaurant serving an extensive selection of Italian and American staples. 100 Sabra St, Cranston, 781-9693. LD $-$$$

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Alphagraphics Providence 74 Dorrance Street • Providence, RI 02903 • (401) 648-0078 US785@alphagraphics.com • US785.alphagraphics.com

ProvidenceOnline.com • July 2019

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Chomp Upscale comfort food featuring award-winning burgers and sandwiches. 440 Child St, Warren, 289-2324. D $$ East Bay Oyster Bar Local seafood meets innovative preparation in a rustic setting. 308 County Rd, Barrington, 247-0303. LD $$ Ichigo Ichie Traditional Japanese cuisine, creative sushi, and hibachi. 5 Catamore Blvd, East Providence, 435-5511. LD $-$$$ KC’s Burger Bar Burgers, hot dogs, and sides enjoyed in a retro car-themed diner. 1379 Fall River Ave, Seekonk, MA. 508-5571723. BLD $$ Tav Vino Waterfront dining with an Italian and seafood focus. 267 Water St, Warren, 245-0231. D $$

Artist: Bob Ferraro

Produced by the Wickford Art Association – Celebrating Fine Art since 1962

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Bluewater Bar and Grill Casual restaurant with modern seafood dishes, patio seating, and live music. 32 Barton Ave, Barrington, 247-0017. LD $$-$$$

The Old Grist Mill Tavern Fine dining located over the Runnins River. 390 Fall River Ave, Seekonk, MA, 508-336-8460. LD $-$$$

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Key: B breakfast Br brunch L lunch D dinner $ under 10 $$ 10–20 $$$ 20+

Blount Market & Kitchen Traditional New England seafood summer favorites offered year-round for dine-in and takeout. 406 Water St, Warren, 245-1800. LD $$

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SOUTHERN RI Breachway Grill Classic New England fare, plus NY-style pizza. 1 Charlestown Beach Rd, Charlestown, 213-6615. LD $$ Champlin’s Seafood Dockside fresh seafood serving easy breezy cocktails. 256 Great Island Rd, Narragansett, 783-3152. LD $-$$ Coast Guard House A new American menu with a seafood emphasis and extensive wine list, open seven days a week. 40 Ocean Rd, Narragansett, 789-0700. BrLD $$$


RESTAURANT GUIDE Key: B breakfast Br brunch L lunch D dinner $ under 10 $$ 10–20 $$$ 20+ Colvitto’s Pizza & Bakery Pizza Calzones and baked goods made fresh daily. 91 Point Judith Rd, Narragansett, 783-8086. BrLD $ Eleven Forty Nine City sophistication in the suburbs. 1149 Division St, Warwick, 884-1149. LD $$$ George’s of Galilee Fresh-caught seafood in an upscale pub atmosphere. 250 Sand Hill Cove Rd, Narragansett, 783-2306. LD $-$$ Mariner Grille Seafood, steaks, and pasta in a fun setting, with live entertainment. 40 Point Judith Rd, Narragansett, 2843282. LD $$ Pasquale’s Pizzeria Napoletana Authentic Neapolitan wood-fired pizza with exclusive ingredients imported from Naples. 60 S County Commons Way, South Kingstown, 783-2900. LD $-$$ Red Stripe Casual French-American bistro. 465 Angell St, Providence, 4376950; 455 Main St, East Greenwich, 3982900. BrLD $$ Siena Impeccable Italian cuisine. Locations in Providence, East Greenwich, and Smithfield, 521-3311. D $$-$$$

A LUSH PARADISE AWAITS YOU at Roger Williams Park Zoo

Sophie’s Brewhouse Espresso drinks and sandwiches with an emphasis on fresh, local ingredients. 699 S County Trail, Exeter, 295-4273. BL $$ Tavern by the Sea Waterfront European/ American bistro. 16 West Main St, Wickford, 294-5771. LD $$ The Cove Traditional bar and grill serving burgers, sandwiches, and classic New England seafood favorites. 3963 Old Post Rd, Charlestown, 364-9222. LD $$ Twin Willows Fresh seafood and water views in a family-friendly atmosphere. 865 Boston Neck Rd, Narragansett, 7898153. LD $-$$

Journey to the depths of the Amazon, for an immersive wildlife experience like no other in the Zoo’s new exhibit

OPEN DAILY 10:00 am – 5:00 pm rwpzoo.org

ProvidenceOnline.com • July 2019

57


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CAV

EVERY DAY IS EXTRAORDINARY In addition to serving lunch (Monday-Friday) and dinner nightly, CAV offers unique daily offerings:

Monday BISTRO MENU Tuesday HALF-PRICED BOTTLES OF WINES, BISTRO MENU Wednesday LIVE JAZZ $8 DOLLAR MARTINIS BISTRO MENU Saturday and Sunday BRUNCH

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14 Imperial Place, Providence. 751-9164. CavRestaurant.com


A R T & C U LT U R E Calendar • On Stage • Art • Music

The Fourth of July Fireworks at India Point Park are best viewed from the water

HBD, AMERICA! July 4: Grab the best seats in the house – er, the water – to watch this year’s Fourth of July fireworks paint the sky in dazzling bursts of color. Providence River Boat Company takes guests from the dock at Fox Point Marina and along the Providence waterways,

before finally dropping anchor in the harbor by India Point for an unbeatable view. Adults over 21 can BYOB or enjoy complimentary alcoholic and non-alcoholic options aboard to toast to America’s birthday. Fox Point Marina, Providence, ProvidenceRiverBoat.com

Photography by Savannah Barkley for Providence Monthly ProvidenceOnline.com • July 2019

59


ART & CULTURE • Calendar

Girls Summer Leadership Camps

THE MUST LIST 10 essential events happening this month July 23-August 11: Hamilton at PPAC

2

Week 1: July 22 – July 26 Moses Brown School

location s

Register on Moses Brown website: camps.mosesbrown.org/camps/ girls-leadership-collaborative

Week 2: July 29 – August 2 Rocky Hill School Register: girlsleadershipcollaborative.com

Developing Leaders, Finding a Purpose and Making a Difference

OUR AQUATIC CENTER

BIG SMILES

IS FILLED WITH

We have all your swimming needs covered. 111 Commercial Way, East Providence, RI 02914 401.337.5678 | www.podsswimming.com

60

ProvidenceOnline.com • July 2019

July 7: The oldest heritage celebration of the Cape Verde Islands, RI Cape Verdean Independence Day Festival turns India Point Park into an interactive cultural experience, including traditional music, dance, food, arts and crafts, and more. India Point Park, Providence, RICapeVerdeanHeritage.org

2

July 7-20: Savor old favorites or sample new ones during Providence Restaurant Weeks, a two-week culinary adventure featuring over 100 eateries offering price-fixed lunch and dinner courses or 2-for-1 specials. Various locations, GoProvidence.com/RW

3

July 16: The PawSox celebrates the team’s Hispanic community for a one-night special game. They will sport gear with the name Osos Polares de Pawtucket, feature Latin music and food, plus highlight Hispanic-focused nonprofits and players. 1 Columbus Avenue, Pawtucket, PawSox.com

4

July 18: Sparks fly on Chace Center Plaza as RISD hosts The Steel Yard’s mobile blacksmithing trailer. Sip on a specialty cocktail from The East End, sway to the sounds of Nova One with Roz Raskin, and step inside for more interactive installations and activities during Design the Night. 20 North Main Street, Providence, RISDMuseum.org

Photo courtesy of PPAC

SWIM LESSONS: Pods Swimming teaches our students more than just swimming-- we teach our students a foundation for life. Our curriculum, teacher training, and evaluation system are all designed to provide a total “aquatic education.” BIRTHDAY PARTIES: Celebrate your child with a pool party! AQUA AEROBICS: Jump right into our aqua classes and build cardiovascular fitness and strength. Tone and sculpt your body with no impact to your joints. LAP SWIM : Swimming is a great way to stay fit! We offer year-round lap swimming throughout the morning and evening.

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July 19: You may know him from the show The League or one of his many comedies like I Love You, Man or Dinner for Schmucks, but now you’ll know Nick Kroll as one of the stars performing at Columbus Theatre. Catch his live show this month. 270 Broadway, Providence, NickKrollPVD.Eventbrite.com

6

Dog Walking • In-Home Boarding Hotel Sitting • Wedding Escort Pick Up & Drop Off Taxi • Overnites Administration Of Medications Pet Sitting & More!

July 20: Snooze at the Zoo gives parents and kiddos the chance to

spend a night at Roger Williams Park Zoo, engage in hands-on activities, and tour by flashlight. This night’s theme: Wild Workplace, where families can learn about zoo careers in vet care and conservation. 1000 Elmwood Avenue, Providence, RWPZoo.org

7

July 20: AS220 is taking a break from staging its annual, all-day Foo Fest and instead will bring 20 of its best Foo Fest bands to its Main Stage and Black Box Theater for AS220 Estival Festival, a sonic fundraiser. 115 Empire Street & 95 Empire Street, Providence, AS220.org

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July 22-27: Seems appropriate that the 2019 FringePVD festival – a celebration of edgy performance art and local culture – will be held on the fringes of downtown Providence. Most performances will be held in the Olneyville neighborhood. FringePVD.org

9

July 23-August 11: Don’t miss your shot to see Hamilton as it finally makes its way onto PPAC’s stage. For those who aren’t familiar, it’s the tale of America’s Founding Father Alexander Hamilton – told through hip hop. 220 Weybosset Street, Providence, PPACRI.org

10

July 28: BayFest welcomes summer with Puerto Rican flair. Food trucks, music, kids’ area, and kiosks pop up in India Point Park. India Point Park, Providence, Facebook: Puerto Rican Professional Association of Rhode Island

SUMMER J-CAMP at the Dwares JCC! June 24 - August 23 | Ages 3 - 15

ALL ARE WELC0ME!

Visit jewishallianceri.org for more information. 401 Elmgrove Avenue | Providence, RI 02906 | 401.421.4111 ProvidenceOnline.com • July 2019

61


ART & CULTURE • Music

by Adam Hogue

Friends from Back East Tour Josh Cournoyer’s I&R brings an all-star line-up back home

GRAND OPENING JUNE 27-29! A Community-Owned Grocery Store Welcoming All Shoppers 93 Cranston Street Providence UrbanGreens.com Open Daily 8am-8pm

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ProvidenceOnline.com • July 2019

For Josh Cournoyer, a move to Nashville, after being a fixture in the Providence music scene for years, never really erased the scene from his life. This year, Josh has found himself creating his first solo album under the moniker I&R that works to reconcile his feet planted in both worlds. “Nashville taught me to fall in love with my craft, but Providence had always instilled that this thing is ultimately about making art,” Josh muses. “I needed to grow when I moved, both creatively and as a person. Things that I took for granted gave way to a reality that Nashville would be just fine whether I made records or not.” The name Bankrupt City is just as much a reference to the 2013-era Providence that he left as much as it is a nod to the slowly

eroding Nashville of old in favor of slick high-rises and a selling off of the character of the city. In the stark realization that finds its way into any art, nothing is meant to last as we remember it. As Josh sings, “Everything passes, passes away.” I&R presents Bankrupt City as a collection of folk musings, fast and slow, hard and soft, all with an edge of pause and existential reflection. With a solid foundation in Josh’s rich, literary lyrics and deep, baritone voice reminiscent of The National’s Matt Berninger or Last Good Tooth’s Penn Sultan, Bankrupt City, comes together as a collective approach to creating and recording with various players, each having their own expression and a conversation with each other. The collective

Photo courtesy of Josh Cournoyer

VOLKSWAGEN


spirit comes through; Josh shared production duties with fellow a Providence transplant and drummer Mike Poorman (Hot Rod Circuit), as well as multi-instrumentalist Joe Pisapia (Guster, Ben Folds). MorganEve Swain (The Huntress and Holder of Hands, Brown Bird), Arun Bali (Saves The Day), and Zac Clark (Andrew McMahon In The Wilderness) joined I&R in the studio, each lending their unique playing styles to the record. “I have a small home studio where I did a lot of the initial demos for Bankrupt City. Half the songs had a full band arrangement pretty well roughed out before we started recording, but over the year that we made the record we added a lot,” Josh says. “At least half the people involved in the making of Bankrupt City have Providence roots, [and] having them beside me in making a record in Nashville was one of the greatest thrills of my life.” Attend I&R’s album release show at The Columbus Theatre on July 12.

th, o m P t. J udi fr s e tur r Daily depa Fall Riv e r Ne w p ort &

TOP TRACKS: Silhouette: With a John Cougar Mellencamp-style driving intro, Josh lays out as many non-rhyming, bellowed syllables as he can before the resonating, harmonized mantra “don’t complicate it” over a wall of riffs and hooks. As one of three singles available on the I&R website, this song captures this energetic, enigmatic side of a versatile and hard-to-put-in-a-box band. Addendum: With a shuffling verse and chorus, Addendum offers the vulnerable and well-spoken lyrics of Josh at his best. With the underused “stream of consciousness” phrase thrown in there, Josh tries his best to explain what keeps him up at night and blind to what’s ahead over “oo-la-la” background vocals and soaring, reverbed guitar riffs. There’s even a guitar-solo chorus – how about that?

I&R WhoIsIAndR.com

ProvidenceOnline.com • July 2019

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by Amanda Grosvenor

Environmental Impact Mea Duke explores maritime issues through art

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ProvidenceOnline.com • July 2019

Painter, sculptor, and printmaker Mea Duke approaches her subjects with a documentarian’s eye, negotiating and navigating them through multiple angles. They often include marine-related objects like shipping containers or life preservers, but sometimes it’s shrink-wrapped toys or human portraits. “I’m not trying to tear it apart or to put

it on a pedestal,” Mea says. “I’m trying to show a different perspective.” Half of Mea’s creative process includes researching and methodically planning out each individual work of art. Her canvases sometimes take on added dimensions: she has combined panels to mimic the upturned corner of a shipping container, as if mid-submersion. A canvas life

Photography by Brandon Harmon

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preserver might appear white, but its subtle glowing reflection against the wall belies neon orange paint on the other side. Her final thesis project covered four massive 49.5” x 97.5” canvases with images of Maersk shipping containers from wildly different perspectives: on the far horizon, up close, bird’s-eye, and one in its death throes sinking into the sea, inspired by an actual devastating wreck. Born and raised in Providence, Mea grew up around art, thanks largely to her grandfather who was a gallery owner. After graduating with a BFA in Studio Art & Art History from URI, Mea earned her MFA at the School of the Museum of Fine Arts at Tufts University. Mea moved back to Providence’s East Side not long after landing a teaching position at Harvard University last year, which she appreciates for its Bauhaus-style method. Teaching is a good fit because it means she doesn’t have to rely on her artwork to make money, which would “corrupt my intentions and motivations,” she says, describing herself as “kind of a quiet activist.” Mea credits her interest in oceanic subjects with growing up in the Ocean State. Her experience led her to consider “our political and economic relationships with the global shipping industry and environmental impact of maritime operations.” From a technical standpoint, painting forms the core of her approach: “Sculptural work is still painting to me,” she says. She also loves the methodical, deliberate process of printmaking. “The way I layer a print is the same way I layer a painting – the same principles apply.” Mea has won several awards and grants, and her work has been exhibited at more than 20 shows in New England, New York, and California. She currently works out of her studio on Fountain Street in Pawtucket.

Mea Duke MeaDuke.com

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