Pro beauty September 2014

September 2014

www.probeauty.co.za

Crystal ball The future industry

Sleek silhouette Slimming & body contouring

Cutting conundrum The art of discounting

Delightful

decade 10 Years of Pro Beauty Expos

Eye of the beholder Counteracting dark circles

johannesburg CELEBRATING

10 yEARs

Calgel

91 24

In this issue...

Regulars 7

Industry news

Local and international news

40

Features 48 Ten years and counting...

A decade of Professional Beauty shows

97 Hair news

55 A slim chance of success?

What’s hot and happening in the hair industry

61 The curse of flab

106 Product news

All the latest launches

110 SAAHSP

23 Keeping up to date with EU regulations

Vital information for exporters

24 Image is everything

How to project yourself and your business

27 Growing pains

Building employer/ employee trust

31 A profile of passion

Industry icon Helene Bramwell

34 Into the future

Industry predictions

online at www.probeauty.co.za

What to look out for

71 Ask the experts

16 Dare to discount The do’s and don’ts of discounting

Latest slimming and body contouring treatments

68 Understanding non-invasive devices

The latest news from SAAHSP

Business

A look at dieting trends

Maximising retail opportunities

75 Treatment Reviews

Spa Focus 40 Good enough to eat

Secrets to spa cuisine

44 Living life to the full

Magazine brand opens spa

Fabulous facials

83 Professional make-up technologies for HD

Flawless finishes for high definition cameras

88 Spotlight on under-eye shadows

Make-up for dark circles

Medical Aesthetics 102 In the ‘dark’

Combatting dark circles under the eyes

Nails 91 Perfection at your fingertips

How to create the perfect nail salon

Professional Beauty September 2014

Welcome

T

his issue commemorates a very important milestone – 10 years of Professional Beauty expos in Johannesburg. We take an anecdotal walk down memory lane as we recall the first ever show in August 2004. At that stage the show was called Professional Beauty South Africa and took place at Caesars Palace (now Emperors Palace).

As those companies who have exhibited at the show over the years will know, Professional Beauty was brought to South Africa by visionary British entrepreneur, Mark Moloney of T.E. Trade Events, who has run very successful Professional Beauty expos in the UK for many years. Congratulations to the T.E. Trade Events expo organising team. Here’s to the next 10 years!

There is so much to read in this bumper issue of Professional Beauty. For instance, to discount or not to discount – that is the question that all salon and spa owners have asked themselves at some stage or other. In this issue we evaluate the pros and the cons of discounting and reveal how to do it in a really clever way.

Food – or rather eating – plays a big part in this issue as we focus on spa cuisine, an area of the industry that requires more attention from spa owners than it currently enjoys, plus dieting trends. The latter complements our special feature on the latest slimming and body contouring treatments, just in time for summer.

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

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On the cover Cover source: www.shutterstock.com

Publisher Mark Moloney

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Managing Director Yolanda Knott

083 654 9098 yolanda@probeauty.co.za

mark@probeauty.co.za

Commercial Director Philip Woods 011 781 5970

phil@probeauty.co.za

Editor Joanna Sterkowicz

011 781 5970

joanna@probeauty.co.za

Art Director Ursula Wong

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ursula@probeauty.co.za

Sales Manager Belinda Wewege

073 033 8599 belinda@probeauty.co.za

Senior Sales Executive Charlene Dickson 082 758 1703

charlene@probeauty.co.za

International Sales Executive Melinda Alevras 072 160 6353 melinda@probeauty.co.za Sales Admin Assistant Obey Dube 011 781 5970

obey@probeauty.co.za

Sales Executive - Classifieds Knowledge Tenza 072 190 4820 knowledge@probeauty.co.za

Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Ice Site Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970 | Fax: 011 781 6079 The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/ or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher.

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Subscriptions Phillip Nkomo

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Operations Manager Barbara Hocking 011 781 5970

barbara@probeauty.co.za

Marketing Manager Stacey Platt 011 781 5970

stacey@tetradeevents.com

Marketing Co-ordinator Palisa Shongwe 011 781 5970

palisa@tetradeevents.com

Social Media Administrator Penelope Mtshali 011 781 5970

social@tetradeevents.com

Printers House of Print

Professional Beauty September 2014

011 474 8750

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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industry news

7

News All the news and views from the world of beauty, spa and nails.

Alison Yammin

New revenue streams for salons

S

pas and salons looking for new business opportunities now have the option of adding hair wellness, make-overs and make-up coaching, as well as cosmeceuticals, to their treatment menus, courtesy Marine Spa Distributors (MSD).

This concept was recently launched to Gauteng spa and salon owners at an MSD function held at The Private Room in Kyalami.

Said MSD’s Alison Yammin: “Today we are introducing three top brands – Cspa Hair Wellness, Bodyography

Professional Cosmetics and Dr Gobac Cosmeceuticals, a results-driven medi-spa treatment. None of these brands will compete with your current brands.”

Cspa Hair Wellness is the result of negotiations between MSD’s Debbie Merdjan and Gary Rom of Gary Rom Hairdressing, which have resulted in the co-branding of four Gary Rom ranges, namely Essentials, Slik Glass, Hydro Boost and Mint Clean. These have been branded as Cspa Hair Wellness.

“Your clients now have the option of either wet or dry hair treatments; conducted while they are having facials, or alternatively in a standalone cubicle,” explained Rom. “We offer only hair treatments – no cuts or colours.”

Debbie Wolfendale of Prana Products, the South African agent for Bodyography, revealed that she specifically took the decision not to retail Bodygraphy at shops so as to require customers to use salons.

Dermalogica Concept Store opens

News in pictures

Dermalogica has opened its third Concept Store in South Africa – at the Rosebank Mall in Johannesburg.

According to Dermalogica’s key accounts manager Cecilia Grobler, three full-time therapists are employed at the store, which includes a fully equipped, standalone treatment room for facials and peels, a Skin Bar where customers can experience Dermalogica’s Face Mapping analysis, and a MicroZone area for shorter facial treatments.

Says Grobler: “We already have two concept stores in Cape Town, which have proved to be successful.

With every Concept Store we showcase our brand in its purest form. Apart from attracting existing and new customers, we encourage our stockists to come to the store to see how merchandising should be done.

“We have a full retail section

Representatives from South African distributor Exclusive Beauty Solutions attended the recent Anesi Beauté Bootcamp in Spain. Pictured are delegates on the first day of training at the DRV Building.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Cecilia Grobler in the shop, as well as a tester area where customers can sample the various products” Grobler stresses that a Concept Store opens up the brand beyond the salon. “We don’t do manis, pedis or massage, only facials, and we’re not competing with salons. For instance, we don’t do the loyalty card/point system as salons do.”

Professional Beauty September 2014

industry news

8

Pulse re-launches in Cape Town

Amy Bowie

A

new location and clinic space comprise the re-launching of Pulse Dermatology & Laser at The Ridge Office Park in Cape Town’s Kenridge suburb.

Pulse was originally opened in December 2013 by Amy Bowie, who

spent six years in the UK training and working in the UK alongside world-renowned dermatologists and plastic surgeons such as Dr Frances Prenna Jones. Her clientele included model Kate Moss and singer Louise Redknapp.

According to Bowie, some of Pulse’s treatment and product offering is unique. “For instance, we have the LED Bio light skin therapy device, NIR skin tightening and Soprano XLI pain free laser hair removal.

“The South African market is extremely different to the rat race in the UK. Plastic surgery is common overseas and normally the first choice amongst consumers. In Cape Town, however, patients are more cautious and discreet, looking for that nonsurgical alternative.”

News in brief ■ Vanquish and Protégé honoured: BTL Industries’ aesthetic devices Vanquish and Protégé have won the Product Design Award in the Life Science and Medicine category of the Red Dot 2014 Awards.

■ Urban Lifestyle on the move: The Urban Lifestyle salon is moving from its old premises in the Hobart Centre in Bryanston, Johannesburg, to a new space in the same centre. It will re-open on 30 September.

■ Buthelezi wins retail award: Zee Buthelezi of the Camelot Spa InterContinental OR Tambo has won the Therapist Retail Category South Africa of the 2014 Thalgo France Competition.

■ New Sorbet Drybar opens: A Sorbet Drybar has opened at the Greenstone Shopping Centre. The Drybar offers wash & blow, styling, hair treatments, manicures and pedicures.

■ Organic beauty market grows: Market analysts at Grand View Research predict that the global organic beauty market will hit almost $16billion by 2020.

Skincare accounts for the largest segment of the organic beauty market, responsible for $2.73bn, or 32% of global revenue, in 2013.

Pretoria spa wins Newcomer award Soulstice Day Spa (Pretoria), part of the Spas of Distinction group, has won the Lilian Terry International (LTI) Newcomer of the Year Award for 2014.

Says LTI’s Carli Argirova: “Congratulations to the team for their outstanding retail sales and enthusiasm from all of the LTI family.

“Further to this, we would also like to

congratulate Lebo Ramorapeli from Lebo’s House of Beauty in Limpopo for being our top therapist for the second quarter of 2014. This is quite an achievement considering this was Lebo’s first time taking part in our incentives.”

The winners received a certificate and can buy LTI products at a discount for six months.

Professional Beauty September 2014

■ International spa mentorship programme: The Global Spa & Wellness Summit (GSWS) has announced the launch of an international spa management mentorship programme that will pair 15 spa directors from around the world with the same number of manager mentees.

■ LFW appoints tanning brand: St Tropez has been announced as the official tanning partner of London Fashion Week (LFW) in September. This is the first time that LFW has named an Official Tanning Brand for the event.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

industry news

10

Beauty comes to Boskruin A new beauty salon offering facial and body treatments has opened in Boskruin, Randburg.

Adamant Beauty is located in the Functional Training SA building, which is also home to a nail bar and a hair studio.

Owner of Adamant Beauty, Adam Peters, specifically wanted to create a spa type feel in a ‘smaller’ beauty salon.

“I believe the décor is trendy and funky and emits an upmarket feel, but with exceptional services and affordable prices,” says Peters.

“Our facial treatment room gives you the feeling of being in a forest, while our second room, for body treatments, is set in the tranquil Namibian Desert.”

He notes that the Boskruin locale fell into his lap. “A good friend of mine, who owns Functional Training gym, offered me space in the building.

Before we knew it the building had turned into an incredible wellness centre, with both pilates and physio studios.”

At the moment Adamant Beauty has one full-time therapist, Francis Houston who, according to Peters, has received fantastic reviews from clients.

In terms of brands the salon offers Six and Spalicious.

“I love the fact that these are proudly local brands,” comments Peters. “Six is an affordable range that does not compromise on quality.

As a salon owner you want to believe that what you are using on your

clients is beneficial to them with the pampering to go with it. Six does that exceptionally well. Spalicious is a fun and funky brand with amazing products and treatments that complement our salon perfectly.

I’m also planning to add a more corrective skincare brand in the future.”

He stresses that retail is a big part of the business.

News in pictures

New moves Poise Brands, distributor of the Mama Mio, Mio and Juliette Armand brands, announces two new appointments.

Yolandi Pieterse has been promoted to operations manager, while Anine Lategan has been appointed as business development consultant for Mio Skincare in KZN.

Anine Lategan

Yolandi Pieterse

Health & Beauty Clinic Mafikeng has won the Spa/Salon Category South Africa of the 2014 Thalgo France Competition. Pictured are Thalgo sales executive Nicolette Fourie (left) and Cathryn Twiname, owner of the clinic, who will visit Thalgo headquarters in France as part of the prize.

Professional Beauty September 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

industry news

12

SA distributor for Black Lace

C

arol Zeederberg has been appointed the sole South African distributor for Black Lace Skin Jewelry.

Designed to be worn on the bare skin, Black Lace was created in the US by jewellery designer Mary Anne Richman and international awardwinning graphic designer Bonny Katzman. Designs are inspired by trend-setting television shows like Game of Thrones and The Tudors.

Black Lace was launched to the local market at the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo on 31 August.

Says Zeederberg: “Mary Anne Richman was actually my first boss

New look for Phytomer

French skincare brand Phytomer recently took the decision to introduce new packaging.

Says Ayesha Rajah, director of A&I Importers, the distributors of Phytomer in South Africa: “The main reason behind the packaging change was Phytomer’s desire to upgrade the brand’s positioning. Phytomer chose more elegant packs and a choice of colours which shows their involvement in biotechnologies, as well as their marine origin.”

at the tender age of 18 when I was in the advertising industry. She emigrated to the United States in 1986. Mary Anne is a very talented designer and her current jewellery is gorgeous and different and sells successfully across the US. “I was looking for a new business opportunity and when Mary Anne showed me her prototypes in December, I loved the product and jumped at the chance to sell it locally.”

Black Lace Skin Jewelry taps into a growing trend that includes temporary tattoos and semi-sheer, lace-heavy, next-tothe-skin fashions.

Brands on show Several professional skincare and hair care brands showcased their wares to the media at the Freebies Fabulous Editor’s Day held on 15 August at Melrose Arch in Johannesburg. This annual event alternates between Johannesburg and Cape Town.

Brands that exhibited included LCN, Hair Cair Distributors, Genop Healthcare, optiphi, Infinity Skincare, Beaucience, Theravine, Nuxe and Sans Souci, among others.

Professional Beauty September 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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business tips

16

Dare to discount Does discounting work for a salon or spa business?

Does it cheapen your offering and de-motivate your staff, or is it a valuable tool to use when business is slow and you desperately need to draw feet through your door? Sally Harvey investigates.

A

s most marketing gurus will tell you discounting is bad for business. Why? Discounting attracts the wrong type of customer, and one who will continue to expect low prices in the future. It can also cause existing customers to become conditioned to the discounts, creating ill feeling within your client base when prices fluctuate, and leading to the potential loss of the business you have worked so hard to build. Discounting also means you will have to work longer and harder for less money. Why would you want to do that to your business?

In my opinion, bargain-hunters belong in a flea market of sorts, not a salon or spa environment. Our industry needs to maintain its credibility, and constantly providing major discounts on our services shows that we undervalue ourselves and what we have to offer.

“Our therapists have studied for many years in order to deliver a professional service to our clients,” says Esna Colyn, CEO of Imbalie Beauty. “Discounting de-motivates then and devalues what they have worked so hard to achieve.

“We have a clear understanding of our cost per treatment and gross profit margins, and therefore steer clear of discounting and add-on services, especially in a large franchise chain. Instead we prefer to offer better

pricing to our very loyal customers, who come for their treatments regularly.”

For certain businesses, however, there are times when discounting can reap benefits, but only if it is carefully planned and has a clear objective to either reward loyalty or obtain extra business.

“Obviously discounting will always affect the bottom line,” says Phillippa Crichton, owner of Tusc, “but if you get the volume and you can build loyalty and return business, it is short-lived, with the longterm benefit of recovering those discounts and achieving greater profitability.”

Ian Fuhr, CEO of the Sorbet Group, agrees that discounting can work, but only if it is done sporadically and does not become a regular occurrence. “I believe we owe it to our guests to offer them specials from time to time, and the best special is always a straight discount. We tend to discount services a few times a year, while retail discounts are given only once a year.”

“Most business owners believe that giving discounts invariably means slashing profits. This is not necessarily true,” he adds. “If the lower price results in a meaningful increase in sales, you can often make more profit during a discount

Professional Beauty September 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

business tips

17 Rather than giving a percentage off the treatment, give a percentage back in loyalty points, which the client can accumulate towards a more significant discount in the long run. campaign than if you didn’t have the promotion in the first place.”

Introduce loyalty programmes These are an effective way of giving back to clients that remain loyal. Rather than giving a percentage off the treatment, give a percentage back in loyalty points, which the client can accumulate towards a more significant discount in the long run.

However, there is more to customer loyalty programmes than merely handing out a punch card to your customers. Planning and execution are essential – you need to get and keep client interest in the programme. It is all about how the loyalty card is presented to your clients. In other words, it must seem easy for your clients to complete.

So how do you go about retaining client interest?

According to a study conducted by consumer researchers Joseph Nunes and Xavier Dreze, the closer clients feel that they are getting to a goal, the more effort they tend to give to achieving the goal.

Findings showed that customers who were given the first two slots of the card already stamped were 34% more able to finish the programme than those given

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an empty card that still needed to be completely filled (19%).

Offer add-ons The use of alternatives to discounting will be more beneficial for your business growth over the long term. Vaughan Owgan, co-founder and marketing director of Salon Management Studio, advocates introducing value addon services instead: “Discounting is unsustainable. Sooner rather than later one of your competitors will undercut your discount even further. Rather attach a value to add-on service that you would usually do for free or at very little cost, such as eyebrow tinting, scalp massage, or cappuccino, and see how the perceived value ends up recouping the actual cost thereof to your facility (view table attached). What is even better is that you are offering additional services and differentiating yourself from your competition.”

Crichton adds: “As profit margins are generally greater on treatments than products, it is better to offer a free treatment if your client purchases a course. For example: buy five treatments and get the sixth one free.

“If you can get your product houses to support you with bigger discounts on bulk buys or with free trials, you could also give a product R

Professional Beauty September 2014

business tips

18 Daily deal websites do not suit our industry, the way we run for free when your client You always need to our businesses and what we purchases certain treatments differentiate yourself; spend that have high margins.” have to offer. It is not time coming up with creative ways to attract interest as well viable for us to sustain Stay clear of daily deal as keep your existing customers websites happy.

There are times when our businesses by From conferences to industry business needs a serious boost, offering 80% networking sessions, the topic of and discounting can work for a daily deal websites has been discussed particular hour or a day, but be discount on at length. The general conclusion cautious and strategic about your is that these offers have not shown services. approach. Remember, when you open success in our type of business – they do not suit our industry, the way we run our businesses and what we have to offer. It is not viable for us to sustain our businesses by offering 80% discount on services.

“How are you going to pay your staff and re-order professional stock if you have sacrificed 80% of your profit?” asks Owgan.

“These websites can work for certain businesses like restaurants or for predominantly machinedependent salons that do not rely heavily on staff and use little or no product during treatment, so their cost of sale is low.”

The main reason why so many salons and spas opt for discounting or daily deal websites is they do not know how to implement more creative methods to collect their own customer data, market themselves and develop promotional campaigns.

your doors in the morning, you are not opening a stall in a flea market, but an up-market establishment with qualified therapists, who are there to provide a professional service, and the customers you want to attract are those who know that and are willing to pay for quality and added value.

If you are offering outstanding service, you will not be too concerned with discounting.

Rather pay more attention to monitoring your customer satisfaction levels and focus on business practices and how you can go about offering outstanding service. Also, focus on your treatment offering and look at effective ways to enhance and adapt your menu to meet your specific client demand. It is all about being the best, and offering the best at the appropriate cost with the greatest value. PB

How will I pay staff and re-order professional stock when I’ve sacrificed 80% of my profit to ‘Daily Deals’ on bargain websites?

Professional Beauty September 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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business tips

23

Keeping up to date with EU regulations The European Union (EU) represents about one third of the global cosmetics market and is known to be very bureaucratic, which can make life challenging for manufacturers who export into the region, writes Tadej Feregotto.

L

ast year the EU updated its cosmetics legislation, with regulation 1223/2009/ EC coming into play. It replaced directive 76/768/EEC, which had been in force since 1976 and which was amended eight times.

The new legislation is a regulation as opposed to the previous directive. This means that it is directly applicable to all the national legislations of the EU member states, leaving no room for different national transpositions, which used to provide a welcome simplification.

A lot of companies around the world are still struggling to become compliant with this new regulation.

Responsible Person One of the main changes that the new regulation has brought in is the introduction of the EU Responsible Person. Each product placed on the EU market needs to have a Responsible Person appointed. This can be any legal or natural person as long as they are based in the EU. The Responsible Person’s main task is to ensure that the products placed on the market are compliant with the legislation and safe for use.

Their address has to appear on the labels and they’re the contact point for the EU competent authorities, should there be any queries about the product.

It is also important to mention that the Responsible Person must keep the product information files at the address specified on the label. These files need to be readily accessible for review if necessary.

Product Information File Another change is the introduction of the wording ‘Product Information File’, even though the requirement to hold certain product information is not new and was already introduced in the sixth amendment of the directive.

Other changes include additional requirements for the information that the Responsible Person has to hold, and

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clearer requirements for safety assessments, including the reasoning that led to the safety assessment conclusion. All of the safety-related information has to be combined in a so-called Cosmetic Product Safety Report, as detailed in Annex I of the regulation.

A few small changes were introduced in the labelling requirements. Additional common criteria for cosmetic product claims were published: the Responsible Person and/or the distributor has to inform the national competent authorities of any serious undesirable effects with which they may become familiar.

And, very importantly, the notification of the products to the authorities, which has to be done before any cosmetic product can be placed on the EU market, is now done through an online centralised portal (CPNP). This is only done once for the whole of the EU, whereas previously each country had to be notified individually. This notification has to be done by the Responsible Person.

The main aims of the regulation remain unchanged, being consumer safety and free circulation of cosmetic products within the EU. Even though the main cosmetics legislation in the EU is regulation 1223/2009, cosmetic products can also be controlled by other legislation, such as the general product safety directive, the aerosol directive, REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals) etc. PB

Tadej Feregotto is CEO of CE.way Regulatory Consultants Ltd., a company that specialises in EU regulatory consulting for cosmetic products.

Professional Beauty September 2014

business tips

24

Image is everything The most important aspect of being in ‘the business of beauty’ is beauty itself.

Strategy, marketing, sales and systems are all incredibly important, but the image that you project of your salon/spa (and yourself) says everything, writes Debbie Merdjan.

S

outh Africa is very much an image-conscious society, and people judge things on first appearance, especially in our industry.

If you’re selling beauty and wellness, you need to look and project beauty and wellness. You need to keep up your image. There are a few key things to look at:

Does my salon or spa need a makeover?

If it does, go ahead, but remember that a makeover will not work for your business unless you offer consistency, with the correct image, message and branding. The image you project must be a true reflection of what your business offers. Experience must equal expectation and beyond.

What image am I portraying in my business?

Look at whether your image is reflected in your sales materials, social media and marketing and ensure that it is in line with your mission, values and company ethos.

Is my branding up to date and appealing?

If not, update your brand, make the look current, but be careful not to lose the original appeal, and, most importantly, don’t lose any customers.

For me personally, I concentrate holistically on the big P-word: professionalism. It drives everything I do, from early morning meetings until I lock the door. It only leaves me when I curl up on the couch, late at night, with my beauty creams on, of course!

A common problem with small businesses is that their image doesn’t reflect their brand. A bad logo, website or inconsistency can do a lot of damage. You can have a great logo or website, but if the service is not good, all is

lost. When you walk through a magnificent door, in a magnificent spa, you want a magnificent treatment.

Consistency.

Personal image.

Personal image is also a principal factor. The way we think about ourselves has a huge effect on how others think of us and how we work and perform.

Being confident, positive, energised, passionate and happy all have a bearing on our image and how we present ourselves to the world.

Dressing for success is not a myth at all. If your business is smart, dress smart. Even if you feel like wearing your old faded jeans and 30-year old sweatshirt, don’t. You never know which important client is going to walk through the door!

Take a look at your business. Take a look at your staff and at yourself. Re-inventing yourself too often is not a good idea, but adapting to changing consumer needs and industry direction is crucial.

Take control, be strategic, and go with choices that are bold, brave and that differentiate you from the competition.

Find your own P-word! PB

Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the Camelot Group - encompassing health & skin care training. She has been in the industry since 1982 and started Camelot International Health & Skin Care Education in 1987, and opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997.

Professional Beauty September 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

business tips

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Growing pains A lot of red tape could be avoided if staff and employers trusted each other more, argues Hellen Ward.

I

t’s interesting as a boss to think of things from my team’s point of view. Whereas I long for them to be open and honest with me about their future plans, I realise that at times I can’t blame them for not always being as transparent as I would like them to be. When I was an employee, maybe I did the same.

Recently, one of my young stylists finally finished his five-year training programme only to request a threemonth, unpaid sabbatical to travel and experience the ‘gap year’ he never had when he was younger. Disappointed for him as I realised how crucial establishing his clientele would be, I reluctantly agreed.

However, we live in a social media age, and it soon became clear that his trip had fallen through, and rather than being in tropical climes he was updating his Facebook page with pictures taken at his local pub.

Instead of coming clean, he decided he would try to bluff it and come back later as planned. Luckily for him I took him back but it took a while to trust him again, and now he realises he could have lost a lucrative career through not being honest with the people who are paying his wages.

Nowhere is there more need for transparency than the thorny issue of maternity leave.

Expansion plans Nowhere is there more need for transparency than the thorny issue of maternity leave. The handbag tsar Anya Hindmarch recently commented on how she would love her female employees to be more open about this. She believes the threat of tribunals over maternity laws are ‘suffocating bosses’ and hinder rather than help women in the workplace.

I couldn’t agree more. In my team, the mums are some of the most committed employees with the best attendance records, who really value their time at work and successfully juggle their families and their careers – but our policy on maternity leave is very flexible. I allow my team to let work fit in with their families. Not all salons

online at www.probeauty.co.za

can offer the same flexibility, because with fewer team members there is often simply nobody to cover, so turnover is lost as a result.

Changing times With recent innovations in treatment technology, machines and tools are becoming more scientifically diverse. Many treatments are not suitable for pregnant women – either to receive or to carry out. We’ve just launched such technology in the salon, and with the contraindications being so serious, any therapist who thinks they might be pregnant would simply have to tell me – even if they ideally wanted to wait longer to fill me in.

As much as I realise people have a right to privacy, I do think if women want equal billing in the workplace they should act in a morally responsible way. In my book, no woman should take on a role or accept a position if she is already pregnant.

It’s a shame that in this litigious age we employers can’t be more honest with our team in finding out what their plans are, and that employees’ rights mean that they don’t need to inform us. PB

Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London’s Sloane Square.

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business tips

31

A profile of

passion

Revered by industry, Helene Bramwell will definitely leave a legacy behind her. If only we could be blessed with more individuals with such passion for our profession, writes Sally Harvey.

W

hen I was asked to interview a true icon in the beauty industry, the first name that sprang to mind was Helene Bramwell. Through sheer tenacity and passion she has helped steer the profession to where it is today, and continues to provide valuable insight and support to ensure that the profession gains the recognition and respect that it so richly deserves.

Bramwell is a CIDESCO Gold Medallist, SAAHSP Honorary Fellow and Founder Member and the recipient of three SAAHSP Presidential Awards for her dedication and commitment to the profession.

She has been involved with CIDESCO since the 1970s, having attended over 26 CIDESCO international congresses and an equal amount of national congresses. In 1987, she was awarded Fellow Membership – the highest honour that can be given to a member – for her crucial input to the profession worldwide.

Bramwell also runs her own salon, The Mask Skin and Body Clinic in Parkview, Johannesburg.

In existence since 1971 (43 years in business – a notable achievement in itself), The Mask maintains very high standards and consistently offers new treatments in line with current trends and advances in technology and skin science.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

I asked Bramwell to respond to the following questions:

What have been your greatest achievements?

During my terms as President of SAIHBTH/CIDESCO Section South Africa (1987-1990), I am very proud of the fact that we influenced the standard of education for beauty in South Africa, and helped provide better employment opportunities for therapists. With Linda Jackson at the helm, we motivated a national SAAHSP qualification, which has added to the greater credibility of the South African beauty therapy profession.

While serving as the CIDESCO Board Member for Public Relations (1993-1999), I was integral in changing the CIDESCO PR portfolio and introducing the CIDESCO Link newsletter, which is distributed to all international sections.

This connected all industry players globally, giving everyone a voice, and allowing everyone the opportunity to share and think collectively for the benefit of our profession.

Being appointed as the CIDESCO International President (Italy 2000) for two consecutive terms enabled me to introduce a much-needed spa qualification and motivate CIDESCO to purchase its own head office building in R

Professional Beauty September 2014

business tips

32 As a salon owner, you have to maintain your passion for what you do and lead by example.

The face of the industry changes constantly, and we must keep up to date with new treatments, techniques, products, and equipment.

Zurich, Switzerland. As an ambassador for South Africa, I was able to create more awareness of our position on the global front, which, of course, opened many doors for South African-qualified therapists.

At this point it is important to know that ‘no man is an island’, and I was – Helene Bramwell privileged to have mentors and the support of so many who gave their time, their money, and knowledge to ensure that South Africa would never be left behind. The history of SAAHSP and CIDESCO is a tapestry of people who made the difference and they should not be forgotten.

When it comes to your salon business, what have you learnt over the years?

As a salon owner, you have to maintain your passion for what you do and lead by example. The face of the industry changes constantly, and we must keep up to date with new treatments, techniques, products, and equipment. Clients are well informed and they want immediate results. Also, one must never allow boredom or repetitiveness to creep in. As therapists, we need to understand the deeper, more responsible role we play – we work ‘beyond the epidermis’, and therefore need to have the knowledge to identify and refer to allied disciplines where necessary.

Staff are the main role-players in your business. They form a major part of the business’s success and profitability.

In my opinion, the industry’s basic salary and commission structures are appalling – they undervalue our profession and can spoil the experience for the client. Selling should

be seen as a prescriptive part of the treatment offering, tailored to be of benefit to the client, not in line with which product house is offering the best incentive. I have always paid my staff a good salary rather than have them work on commission, and the proof of this lies in the fact that my staff work together and are supportive of one another, and my clients remain loyal. One of my therapists has been with me for 28 years; another for 18 years and so on.

It is important to stay ahead, network, and attend congresses and exhibitions – this should be part of your investment for your future success. Belong to your national organisation, because at the end of the day they are your mouthpiece and you cannot afford not to be supportive.

Where would you like to see the industry progress?

I want the role of the therapist to be acknowledged.

The level of education in South Africa is of an exceptional standard, and, as a result, our skills are in great demand abroad, due to our dedication, skill and qualifications. We must never underestimate the vital role that a beauty therapist has – they are the key to return business. People return for people, and therefore it is so important that the therapists are given their own identity within a spa, salon or medical environment.

What is the next step for you?

SAAHSP (CIDESCO Section SA) was given the privilege of hosting the 63rd CIDECO International Congress to South Africa in 2015 – a great feather in our cap, and one that should not be underestimated.

We are currently organising and actively promoting this worthwhile event, which will take place from 20 - 25 May 2015. PB

Professional Beauty September 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

business tips

34

Into the future Globally the aesthetic market has shown considerable growth, even during the throes of recession. With rapid advances in science and technology, there is no limit to what this industry is capable of achieving. Sally Harvey looks at some industry predictions for the future.

The rise of the machines.

Working with cleverly engineered machinery has become part of our daily lives. With information being transmitted in milliseconds, society is used to receiving results almost instantaneously, and for this reason advanced equipment is being used in conjunction with treatments in salons and spas in order to achieve immediate results.

The second plus point is that technology is also enabling the therapist to perform fairly non-invasive treatments without the need for surgery. Clients are happy, as they can see visible results, and, in most instances, they are able to go back to their daily lives with little or no downtime.

We are yet to imagine what the future holds in terms of technology for our industry. There might come a day when scanners are developed that can immediately identify and treat ageing skin and body imperfections in as little as 10 seconds.

A wealth of wellness.

Everyone keeps on talking about this elusive word: wellness. So what does it actually mean? The future will demand that we move beyond therapies to a more holistic approach, encompassing all aspects of an individual – physical, emotional, mental and spiritual. We need to understand that, when a client books for a treatment, they are usually looking for something more meaningful from that treatment. Whether they have health concerns, family problems, anxiety or just need to relax, the most important role of a therapist is to engage and be able to provide the best possible advice to bring that person back to a complete state of wellness.

The therapist’s role in the future will be to have extensive knowledge in a number of fields, not to be prescriptive or

take over the role of a physician or healthcare practitioner, but to be able to listen, support and provide advice, so as to help the client take back control of their lives.

We have already started to notice a strong synergy between beauty, fitness, diet and health. Many facilities are already introducing fitness classes, such as yoga or Pilates as part of their offering, or accommodating health professionals on their premises. The future will see more of these types of ‘health-conscious’ centres mushrooming across the country, which has already been the case in large parts of Europe, particularly France.

Hydration – the miracle of water.

We were all cocooned in fluid for the first nine months of our existence in our mother’s womb. As such, water has a very strong nurturing quality on our lives. Sixty percent of our bodies consist of water, and improved hydration levels in the skin plump, firm and soften fine lines and wrinkles.

Future therapies will focus on incorporating this vital source within the mix: from advanced hydrotherapy baths to rhythmic water bed massages. Facials and massage techniques will be designed to mimic the ebb and flow of the ocean, while water bags will add fluid sensations to the experience.

Hyaluronic acid will continue to be researched and new variants investigated in order to develop skincare that balances and protects the acid mantle of the skin and defies dehydration.

Hair treatments.

Although we have already experienced alliances between the hair and beauty sector, particularly in relation to sharing space within a spa or salon environment, we

Professional Beauty September 2014

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business tips

35

now are moving into more advanced hair care therapies that are being introduced as individual treatments or add-ons within current treatment packages.

In line with today’s fast-paced lifestyle many facilities are known to combine therapies in the treatment room to save time. In such cases, two therapists would work on the client, performing, for example, a facial, in conjunction with a manicure and/or pedicure treatment. When it comes to treating the hair, however, the same therapist is able to apply advanced treatment oils to the hair prior to the facial, and then provide a relaxing head massage while the mask gets to R

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty September 2014

business tips

36

work on the face. Being able to offer a blow-dry before your client walks out of the door really adds credence to the saying: being treated from head to toe.

Prescriptive skincare.

Skincare has moved beyond treating skin types to skin conditions. We are starting to see in-salon treatments and aftercare that have been specifically designed to treat skin concerns such as acne, pigmentation, scarring and eczema. Although there are certain serious cases, where a medical practitioner needs to address the issue, the role of the skincare therapist has evolved to such a degree, along with advancements in technology and formulations, to be able to offer a skincare programme specific to the client’s concerns and needs.

In the future, there will be a more integrative approach to aesthetics, whereby plastic surgeons, dermatologists and aesthetics doctors and scientists will work hand-inhand with therapists. Sharing knowledge, expertise and science, they will take the aesthetics sector to new heights in terms of development – a new age, designed to achieve optimum body perfection and health.

Fire & ice.

Heat and cold are some of the most common elements used to relieve pain and reduce inflammation. Quick temperature changes from hot to cold and back again have been shown to aid in injury recovery, giving the tissues a gentle workout without stress, therefore enabling the body to heal. In addition to Roman baths, Kneipp therapy, ice fountains, saunas and steam rooms have become fairly common in spas throughout the world, as well as the different hot and cold tools and mediums used during massage practices.

Scientific studies have shown that if you heat or freeze fat cells at a certain temperature for a length of time, you are able to destroy them effectively, while the body either uses the contents as energy or excretes them via the lymph. The result is a thinner, more sculpted physique.

Heating tissue to a certain degree using radiofrequency and ultrasound has also proven of great benefit in terms of skin tightening and the stimulation of fibroblasts to produce more collagen and elastin.

Although fire and ice have their dangers, if managed correctly they can have great preserving and reparative qualities. In the future, we might make use of freezing

chambers and heating cubicles designed to offer quick rejuvenation and repair for both medical and aesthetic purposes.

Nature meets science.

For centuries nature’s bounty has held secrets of medicinal and healing powers. In the past few decades, science has enabled us to discover ingredients derived from plants that show immense benefits for the skin. The list continues to grow, as every year we are introduced to new and exciting discoveries.

Laboratories spend tireless hours working on formulations where such ingredients can work synergistically in order to reap the greatest benefit.

Advanced technologies, such as nanotechnology, provide effective delivery systems in order to transport these key ingredients to where they can work most effectively.

Some of the most advanced products on the market today are developed by using what nature has given us combined with the science, technologies and innovations of man. In the future we might be taking different coloured tablets instead of applying layers of serums and creams on our faces and bodies to prevent, protect and repair.

Express treatments.

Everyone these days is after the quick in-and-out fix. As a result, nail, eyebrow and LED bars, as well as quick minifacials and head and shoulder massages have become the norm, particularly with executives on the move, who either want to pop in during their lunch hour or on the run from one appointment to the next. This does not mean, however, that spas and certain salon treatments do not still have their place, as many of the same individuals who burn the candle at both ends end up needing serious time out to relax, unwind and recuperate.

The importance for the owner of a salon, spa, nail bar and the like, is to find your niche, depending on where you are situated and who your clientele are. Today, you cannot be everything to everyone, so find your specialty and clearly market it to your target audience. Also, be willing to change if necessary, especially with today’s consumer, who is most probably already searching for the next best thing online.

If you want to keep ahead you need to engage with your clients and give them an experience they will talk about to all their social media friends. PB

Professional Beauty September 2014

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spa focus – cuisine

40

Good enough to eat Spa cuisine is a field within the South African spa industry that needs serious attention in terms of educating clients about nutrition, while simultaneously offering an appealing menu, writes Francisco Garcia.

L

et me state at the outset that I am not a food expert, although I am very concerned about health, fitness and nutrition. My knowledge of spa cuisine has been gained over the years through running the Mount Grace Country House and Spa and the Arabella Hotel and Spa. It is also based on my personal experience at other spas – I have been lucky enough to have visited many of them.

Spas in general are becoming more and more nutrition-conscious. We are witnessing a trend where spa cuisine menus are now more informative, detailed and targeted to every different type of medical condition. Menus include the K/ calories of each meal and its nutritional value. This is combined with the creation of recipes using innovative ingredients that make the meal complete, healthy and wholesome.

As to whether there might be a general public perception that spa cuisine is about nothing but tofu and bean sprouts, I believe that the last thing a spagoer worries about is the spa cuisine. However, I do think it is an interesting point. While some spas go to great efforts to adapt and change their cuisine, and offer a current, healthy, attractive and wholesome spa menu, many other spas are not bothered at all; as this is not something they focus on.

The true brilliance of spa cuisine is bridging the gap between ultra-healthy and tasty food.

Bridging the gap The true brilliance of spa cuisine is bridging the gap between ultra-healthy and tasty food. It is

Professional Beauty September 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

spa focus – cuisine

41 quite a challenge to achieve that perfect balance between delicious, attractive food and being ultra-healthy.

I recently visited a health hydro where customers go for weight loss, stress management and relaxation. Their nutrition programme is very well measured, and the food was extremely healthy and incredibly tasty and attractive. So it can be done and done very well.

It is extremely important not only to make the food tasty but also to ensure that the meal looks appealing as well.

‘Nutritionally dense, low-calorie’ The types of superfoods termed ‘nutritionally dense, low-calorie’ relate to those foods that are rich in vitamins, minerals, antioxidants and phytochemicals but that are also low in calories. These foods are satiating and aid in weight loss and longevity.

As our knowledge of nutrition grows, spa cuisine is adapting accordingly and incorporating all these superfoods.

Fruits, vegetables, whole grains, fish, and poultry are all nutrient-dense foods that provide plenty of vitamins and minerals for relatively few calories.

No foods are more nutrient-dense than whole, organically grown foods.

Health hydros are definitely turning more and more to organic foods. Some actually grow it themselves within their own premises, or they have agreements in place with nearby farms to ensure that as much as possible that is offered in the spa cuisine is organic.

Seasonal fruits and vegetables can play a big role in determining the menu at any given time. I have visited and worked at some spas where the chef was so involved in the spa cuisine that he had a summer spa menu and a winter spa menu, and adapted all dishes to be made with the freshest ingredients of the season!

Top chef A spa within a hotel would have a chef within their kitchen staff who is in charge of the spa cuisine. R

Suggested menu for day spas Starters: soup, cold salad, warm salad Mains: wraps meat, fish and vegetarian options Desserts: low-fat ice cream, sorbet and one ‘healthy’ cake Smoothies: (some guests have this as a meal replacement)

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Professional Beauty September 2014

spa focus – cuisine

42 When it comes to day spas, sometimes they do not have chefs to produce food but guests might want to eat something, so they have agreements with other food outlets for them to deliver the food to the spa.

In the case of a health hydro, where the number of guests would be more contained, they have a chef who it is normally hired by the hydro directly, and is in charge of producing the entire food offering.

If I had to employ a spa chef I would look at his previous experience in a healthy cooking establishment, his knowledge of nutritional values, superfoods and latest trends. All this without forgetting that the candidate would have to have extreme accuracy in running the kitchen efficiently and profitably, while providing a superb spa cuisine offering It is a much more recurrent practice these days for some top end spas to employ the services of a nutritionist or a dietician. Even though we are not yet at the level that we should be in terms of the approach to nutrition and supplementation at spas. More often these days spas are offering a custom-made programme for three to five days that includes treatments and a consultation up-front with a nutritionist or dietician, who can work with the client’s current diet, outline the issues and address them.

I think that spa chefs should take note of current dietary trends and if they don’t, then it is the spa manager’s responsibility to gather information and be knowledgeable about trends and present them to the chef.

Meeting requirements At health hydros the attention and emphasis on the guest’s food is a bit more tailor-made, as they might not have available all the ingredients required to cater for all food intolerances and allergies at all times. So, when a guest makes a booking, they would be asked about their food requirements and food intolerances, etc.

At hotel or resort spas in South Africa, it is not common practice for the reservations team to ask about the guest’s food requirements. However, it is somehow expected by guests that the kitchen should be able to produce an adequate meal for their requirements.

When guests comes to spa for treatments, they have to fill in a consultation card where they are asked about medical conditions, allergies and intolerances, as at treatment level there might be some kind of food product that might contain any of the ingredients to which the clients are allergic. This allows the therapist to tailor-make the experience and always be safe.

If the spa allows access to children then it should definitely offer not-quite-so-healthy kids’ dishes, but with a healthy twist on them. The chef could also maybe add a couple of smoothies and milk shakes to the menu.

Weight-loss programme When clients specifically book in for a weight-loss/detox programme the idea is for the client to be able to come back, as the client will lose weight but maybe not as much as he/she would like to. Therefore the food needs to be appealing, attractive, measured, timed and the client needs to be educated in what they are eating and why.

A weight loss package doesn’t necessarily mean that the client needs to starve. Obviously there will not be any caffeine, sugar, and alcoholic beverages on offer. The portion of carbs will be extremely measured and there will plenty of superfoods in the offering.

There could be dishes such as seared trout with roasted vegetables, boiled beetroot and orange salad, polenta and almond tart, stir-fried vegetable on a bed of egg noodles, raw beetroot and a banana smoothie, etc. PB

More often these days spas are offering a custom-made programme for three to five days that includes treatments and a consultation up-front with a nutritionist or dietician.

Francisco Garcia began his career in the beauty industry in 2008, as the spa manager of Mount Grace Country House and Spa and won the Spa Excellence Award for Spa Manager of 2011. Later that year he became spa director of Arabella Hotel and Spa. In March 2014 he started his own spa consultancy and works closely with African Pride Hotels and the Amani Spas Group.

Professional Beauty September 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

spa focus

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Living life to the full The first of its kind, LééfSPA in Linden, Johannesburg, is a brand extension of Lééf met hart & siel magazine and imbues its spiritual ethos through a variety of pampering treatments, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

T

he decision to open a spa seemed a logical and natural extension of what Lééf met hart & siel (Live with heart & soul) magazine stands for, according to editor Christine Ferreira.

“There has always been a strong focus on beauty in the magazine, and owners Media24 thought that a spa would give us another way of touching our readers’ lives,” says Ferreira. “Lééf met hart & siel is a holistic read for Afrikaans-speaking women who seek a life of beauty, balance and belief. The magazine gives direction and meaning to her everyday life. It nourishes her spirit,

SPA AT A GLANCE Opened: 11 April 2014 Owners: Media24 Interior size: 224 square metres

inspires her with hope for the future and empowers her to live life to the full – with heart and soul.

“Lééf met hart & siel is grounded in Christian values and is aimed primarily at a Christian target market.

The spa’s target market is all women and men who want to be spoiled and pampered in a beautiful and peaceful environment.”

She notes that the vision is to offer a unique and differentiated day spa/beauty salon where clients can be pampered on the inside and the outside.

“We want to create a sanctuary where women feel welcome, worthy and comfortable, utilising the Lééf brand identity and philosophy. The

Professional Beauty September 2014

Number of treatment rooms: Two single rooms, double room, couple’s lounge Number of therapists: Three full-time therapists, two parttimers.

Facilities: Steam room, shower, outside relaxation area Brands: Comfort Zone, RégimA, Lilian Terry, OPI, Biominceur, Koebana, Shellac, OPI.

focus is on pampering treatments, using products and techniques with a gentle hands-on approach rather than machine-based programmes.

“A Lééf body product and gift range is currently being developed for use in the spa, and for retailing in the spa gift shop and on our e-commerce platforms.” R

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Professional Beauty September 2014

spa focus

46 “The ability to market our spa in our own magazine, as well as to our vast Facebook community, has done wonders.”

intimidate, but to entice her gently into discovering her own beauty,” comments Ferreira.

Signature treatment

feminine quality by inspiring and inviting the reader to discover her own beauty and inherent value.

“We lead her to look beyond her doubts and limitations and the way she might view herself. The magazine encourages her to discover the pleasure of taking care of herself, to maintain her youthful appearance, to find time to rest and rejuvenate, to embrace her uniqueness and to feel and be beautiful at any age.”

She stresses that the magazine gives useful tips and holistic advice on skincare, body care, fragrance, hair & make-up, and focuses on seasonal makeovers in order to equip her to be as beautiful as she was created to be.

“We pay attention to anti-ageing issues and feature information on the latest products and treatments in each issue. The approach is never to

The spa’s signature treatment is called Mooi soos ‘n beminde (My beautiful beloved).

Says Ferreira: “This is a top-to-toe treatment inspired by the beloved described in Song of Songs. As a Christian women’s magazine, this treatment embodies what we strive for - to be beautiful on the inside and out.

To further the biblical principle of the willingness to serve, each treatment at our spa starts with a foot-washing ritual.

“Our most requested treatments are Mooi soos ‘n beminde, facials, massages, manicures, pedicures and waxes. The spa team is in the process of developing a reflexology walk.”

Ferreira describes business to date as ‘good’. She continues: “We have been blessed, as the average occupancy is 60%. The ability to market our spa in our own magazine, as well as to our vast Facebook community, has done wonders.”

Regular beauty workshops called Mooi soos ‘n beminde are hosted at the spa by the editor and a make-up artist from Bobbi Brown. These are fully booked and ladies are encouraged to look at themselves with new eyes and discover their inherent beauty. PB

Professional Beauty September 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Christine Ferreira

The owners took the decision to locate the spa in Linden because it is an area where many of the magazine’s readers live. Situated on busy Malibongwe Drive, the interior of the spa is peaceful and tranquil, thanks to soundproofed doors and soft, soothing music.

At the core Over the past eight years beauty has always been an important editorial pillar in the magazine, from its popular makeovers and washing of feet and pampering sessions at editorial events, to the editor’s talks on self-acceptance at ladies’ events countrywide.

Ferreira continues: “We have always believed that beauty is core to a woman, part of her inner being.

The beauty pages in Lééf met hart & siel celebrate beauty as an essential

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48

Ten years

and counting…

Professional Beauty Johannesburg 2014 marks a decade of the expo in South Africa.

Unquestionably the biggest event in Africa of its kind, the expo attracts over 18000 visitors on an annual basis. It has come a long, long way since its first ever edition, held at Caesars Palace in August 2004, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

T

he Professional Beauty expos had a very successful and proud history in the UK for many years before they were brought to South Africa by the company’s managing director, Mark Moloney.

Mark Moloney He recalls: “There were many South Africans living in the UK and four of my ‘English’ customers were actually run by people from South Africa. They kept telling me there was a great opportunity to do what we do in Britain in their home country. I went on holiday to South Africa with my girlfriend over Christmas in 2002, tagged on an extra four days and had 17 meetings with manufacturers and distributors who convinced me there was a market. So it all started from there.

“We recruited three excellent people based in a small office in Sandton, who were occasionally helped by members of the UK team. Within eight months we had the Professional Beauty magazine up and running and in 15 months, the first exhibition. Those were exciting times and the South African people were very supportive.”

Moloney notes that the first ever Professional Beauty South Africa show, held at Caesars Palace near

the Johannesburg airport, was compact with exhibitors taking small stands. “But it was absolutely packed with visitors. How great it was to see the theory changing into reality and both exhibitors and visitors having such a great time.

“One particular memory I have is of Stav Dimitriadis of Twincare International, who really hadn’t believed in exhibiting but took four small stands (one for each of his brands), coming to me at the end of the show and saying, to his surprise, how well it had worked. He has been a loyal supporter ever since.”

Moloney and his team very soon realised that industry players in the Cape and KwaZulu-Natal (KZN) wanted their own show.

“As soon as Johannesburg became established we added Cape Town and Durban to our portfolio. While these are smaller events, we enjoy staging them and, with our networking breakfasts, we want to do more outside Gauteng.”

Observations During his many visits to South Africa, Moloney has found that people here are now more confident than they were in the early 2000s.

He continues: “They have realised that what happens here is as good if not better than what goes on in this profession in many other countries. The quality of South African therapists is still very much in demand around

Professional Beauty September 2014

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49

A walk down memory lane at Caesers Palace 2004

the world. I’ve also noticed What happens many more people of colour or of Asian origin taking up here is as good professional treatments.” if not better than Moloney is really proud of the fact that the Professional what goes on in Beauty expo has reached its this profession decade milestone in South in many other Africa.

“We don’t always get it countries. right but everything we do is focused on expanding the market for professional treatments. I believe that we’ve played our part in bringing more people into the profession, as well as introducing those already in it to new ideas and best practices. Our whole business is focused around this.”

At inception Alexandra Norvall, now the founder/ director of Pure Nutrition Technology, was the first ever sales manager at Professional Beauty South Africa.

“There was a small team at the beginning – myself, the editor Helena Raats and admin executive Vanessa Hefer,”

online at www.probeauty.co.za

says Norvall.

“Mark Moloney gave me a crash course on trade shows and sent me to the UK to observe how his show there operated. At that stage Mark had already researched the South African market thoroughly.

“I remember that the first Professional Beauty South Africa show was quite a challenge to organise. The largest stand was 64 square metres and occupied by Pevonia Botanica, who flew out from the US to exhibit at our show. They made a big splash. That first show was extremely successful with great attendance.”

According to Norvall, the next edition of the show in 2005 was much bigger than the first one. “In fact the show grew every year; each edition just got bigger and better every year, as did the gala dinner. Both Mark I loved working on the show.

“The Professional Beauty shows in South Africa have been a great thing and the industry really appreciates them. I have to say that the professionalism of the South African beauty industry matches international standards,” concludes Norvall. R

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Exhibitors’ perspectives Derek Terry of Lilian Terry International reflects on the first Professional Beauty show: “Having visited Professional Beauty London in 2003 and felt the vibe there I came back wondering if it could happen in South Africa, albeit on a smaller scale of course.

Could Professional Beauty UK bring Derek Terry the professionalism it had built up for its show to South Africa? Would the local companies in the industry come to the party and exhibit?

“The answer to these questions was a resounding yes!

Today we see a South African show that is eagerly awaited by many and regarded as the event of the year for the local beauty, hair and nails industry.

“We can also give a word of thanks to the hard working Professional Beauty South Africa team who have made this event what it is today. Well done guys!”

Says Jacques Pretorius of Radiant Heathcare: “The first Professional Beauty show at which we exhibited back in 2004 was an eye opener. We were used to medical congresses attended by only 200 people and that first Professional Beauty show drew over 3000 people! It Jacques led to several direct sales as well as long Pretorius term sales.

“That show went down in the history of our company as such a big success that we made the decision to always use the Professional Beauty expos as our showcase and as a springboard for new product launches.”

Chris Parker of ESP Online remembers the 2004 show as small but intense, in a good way. “We had a 2x2m stand and it was packed with interested salon and Chris Parker spa owners. It was clear that the industry was in desperate need of what Professional Beauty was putting on offer and have continued to provide over the years.

“Now, we take two stands every year at the Johannesburg show – one in the Hair Hall and one in the Beauty Hall.

We have exhibited at all the Cape Town and Durban shows and have always had reason to come back.”

Environ CEO Val Carstens recalls that there was another exhibition running at the time called Beauty Africa. “This was very much a consumer show which, after a few years, became very mass market orientated, primarily promoting hair products in a very loud Val Carstens and almost brash environment. This was not conducive to promoting professional skincare in the serene environment it deserves so the introduction of the Professional Beauty show was very refreshing and Environ had no hesitation in booking a stand for the following year. We are still exhibiting today.”

At the 2004 Professional Beauty show Orleans Distributors exhibited RVB and Gatineau.

“The show was particularly significant for us in that it helped to re-ignite the growth of RVB. At the time, the show had more of a skincare focus and has since expanded to include all aspects of the beauty industry – aesthetic machines, nails and hair.

“It has also been great to see how, over the years, more and more South African skincare brands have been developed and marketed internationally,” say the team at Orleans Distributors.

Belinda Swart of Twincare International comments that in terms of growth over the years, the exhibition is bigger and better every year.

“The stands are forever improving and looking more and more professional every year. Twincare also now takes stands for all their brands and therefore in every corner of the show, Twincare stands out,” says Swart.

“Within eight months we had the Professional Beauty magazine up and running and in 15 months, the first exhibition. Those were exciting times and the South African people were very supportive.”

Mark Moloney

Professional Beauty September 2014

Changes The first show gave RégimA the opportunity to launch its Peel & Heal treatments to Jacqui Faucitt much excitement as peeling in-salon was fairly new at that stage.

Says RégimA’s Jacqui Faucitt: “It was a small show in size as salon owners and therapists were only beginning to hear about it in the days before Facebook and Twitter. They were a little hesitant to go to expos at that stage.

“For exhibitors like RégimA the R

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professional beauty johannesburg

52 show opened up so many new doors and opportunities for development. It was a “At the more recent shows it has been like great opportunity to be exposed to our meeting old friends – there is so much camaraderie main target market all at once. I remember and confidence between company and client.” with pride that we won the award for Best Small Stand.

Jacqui Faucitt “RégimA has exhibited every year since at the Professional Beauty Expos in Johannesburg, Cape Town and KZN, as well as in VIP invitations and special VIP areas for salon and spa London and Manchester in the UK.” owners.”

Faucitt observes that the shows have Faucitt believes that the addition of the Medical changed dramatically over the years. “Each one Aesthetics Convention to the overall package was ‘a has been bigger and better, with the dynamic brilliant move’. She continues: “Many aesthetic doctors Professional Beauty team expanding and work hand in hand with skincare professionals and supporting exhibitors and advertisers. this has expanded the exposure to our target “When Professional Beauty first started it market all under one roof. was noteworthy that salon owners or therapists “Professional Beauty has grown would visit the show on their own. They were further in terms of the education of more reserved with less interaction between therapists and aesthetic doctors. themselves and exhibitors. At the more recent I am proud to have been a guest shows it has been like meeting old friends – speaker at the Medical Aesthetics there is so much camaraderie and confidence Conventions in Johannesburg and between company and client. This feeling has Cape Town.” been boosted by Professional Beauty allowing

SAAHSP The South African Association of Health & Skincare Professionals’ (SAAHSP) history with Professional Beauty dates back to long before the first show.

Says SAAHSP member Sandy Roy: “Over 10 years ago Mark Moloney attended a beauty co n fe re n ce /ex h i b i t i o n in Johannesburg that was owned and run by SAAHSP. I was SAAHSP vice president at the time and Philippa Crichton the president. Mark offered to buy the rights to the conference as well as our beauty magazine, Professionelle, and rebrand it as Professional Beauty. Mark came in all guns blazing and the show has exploded over the years.

“I remember that the first Professional Beauty show was held in a small conference room at Caesars. It wasn’t a very big show but it was very busy.

Since then Mark has always given SAAHSP an exhibition stand at the show and a page

Sandy Roy and Tracy Chambers

Phillipa Crichton

in Professional Beauty magazine for news. Part of this commitment originally was that every student in a SAAHSP-approved school received a free subscription to the magazine.”

Roy recalls that in 2004 all the various non-profit organisations that existed in the beauty industry were not talking to each other.

“What was really powerful about Mark’s buying of our show and magazine was that he tried to integrate everyone so that they would work together for the benefit of the industry.

“I think Professional Beauty has been good for the industry as it’s exposed it on a greater scale.”

Competition element The Nail Competition has proved to be an enduring and extremely popular element of Professional Beauty Johannesburg since the show’s inception.

Says nail and beauty consultant Sonette van Rensburg: “Jacqui Jefford, who I had known from my years of working in Dubai, invited me to be a judge for the very first Nail Competition.

The following year Helena Raats asked if I would be the head judge and the year after that, Mark Moloney asked me to be director of the competition, which I’ve done to date. I also introduced the Make-up Competition in 2006.” PB

Professional Beauty September 2014

Sonette van Rensburg, Jacqui Jefford and Sarie Swanepoel.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Visibly Better!

Powered by

dieting trends

55

A

slim chance of

success?

Dieters live life in the fasting lane

Your body is a temple, not a drive-through

Dieting is wishful shrinking I am a nutritional overachiever

I keep trying to lose weight... but it keeps finding me!

Quotes sourced from www.quotegarden.com, authors unknown

We may have a giggle reading the above quotes but for anyone afflicted with weight issues, trying to get rid of it can be a stressful, emotional and often relatively futile experience, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty September 2014

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I

“The only way to lose weight in a sustainable way is to follow a balanced diet that is suited to your particular lifestyle.”

Individual analysis t’s not unheard of Rossouw stresses that losing weight for clients who book is not a group fix. into salons or spas “Before designing an eating for slimming or body programme each client must contouring treatments be analysed individually,” she to talk to therapists about their continues. “Then you work out dieting woes. a sustainable eating plan for Research the topic of dieting Olga Rossouw (RD) SA them. One should also look at the trends and you will get a plethora psychological effects of dieting of results – DASH, TLC, Mayo because food often ends up being Clinic, Mediterranean, Weight the enemy. You need food – you must enjoy it and it’s not Watchers, Volumetrics, Anti-inflammatory – and the your enemy if you learn to use it properly. list of diets goes on.

“It’s important to acknowledge that weight fluctuates Almost every year there is at least one new diet all the time due to any number of factors. To give some that is accompanied by huge amounts of hype and examples; your weight is different in the morning to becomes popular on a global scale. According to what it is in the evening; weight also reacts to hormonal dietician Olga Rossouw (RD) SA, everyone at the activity; if you eat salty food your weight will increase moment is talking about the Tim Noakes Diet. slightly. Therefore it is wrong for dieters to jump onto a “This diet is not that different to the Atkins Diet scale every few minutes.” which was the rage some years ago,” says Rossouw.

As a dietician Rossouw looks at the age of the client “The problem with dieting is that everyone wants and their specific medical problems. a quick fix, but what they don’t realise is that the “I take a history of what they eat so as to try and balance only way to find out what works for your body and their sugar levels. You need to identify which foods are your lifestyle is to achieve optimum health and to causing problems. People often have a sensitivity – which maintain it. If you start leaving out food groups that is different to an actual allergy – to a particular food. your body needs you will deprive it of nutrients Bloating, for example, can be caused by a sensitivity to and your health will suffer. You can end up with wheat or lactose. I always tell my clients to listen to their constipation, irritable bowel syndrome (IBS) or bodies.” renal issues, for example.

The two foods that Rossouw does not include in any “The only way to lose weight in a sustainable way eating plan are sugar and refined starches. She also is to follow a balanced diet that is suited to your advises clients to stay away from saturated fats. particular lifestyle. For instance, athletes should Rossouw notes that even if dieters eat minimal amounts follow a different diet to less active people. People of food they won’t lose weight if the food is not prepared with heart issues or diabetes need to follow very in the right way or if it is gobbled down. R specific diets or they will get very ill.”

Professional Beauty September 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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dieting trends

58 The Banting way

“The Tim Noakes Diet that has caused such caused such controversy can be categorised as a Banting-style diet. The mistake people often make is that they think it is also a high protein diet, which it is not.”

Named after corpulent 19th century undertaker William Banting, who was put on a successful weightloss programme by Doctor Harvey, the Banting Diet is essentially a low carbohydrate high fat (LCHF) diet.

Say Nicky Perks and Sally-Ann Nicky Perks and Sally-Ann Creed of Banting Buddies Creed of Banting Buddies: “The Tim Noakes Diet that has caused such eating low fat. One might lose caused such controversy can be weight on these diets, but they categorised as a Banting-style diet. are not sustainable long-term The mistake people often make and people invariably put the is that they think it is also a high weight back on. I mean, who protein diet, which it is not. wants to be hungry all the “The Banting approach to time?” eating is basically a low carb, They maintain that carbs moderate protein and high fat are not bad for everyone. diet. Tim Noakes hasn’t designed “Some people metabolise a ‘new’ diet - he has just done his carbs very well and can research and educated himself on the afford to eat them without science behind a low carbohydrate diet gaining weight. If you are and the amazing health benefits to be overweight it is very likely that gained. This diet is especially effective you are carbohydrate intolerant if one is diabetic, insulin resistant or and would therefore benefit overweight.” by reducing your carbohydrate They note that the Dr Atkins and intake.”

Paleo/Primal movements have also The Banting diet recommends sourcing carbs done ‘a fantastic job’ of popularising this very different from vegetables, berries and dairy products and way of eating where one cuts out sugar, processed food avoiding bread, rice, corn, cereals, pasta and baked and grains. goods. Gluten is categorised as inflammatory and dramatically affects the blood sugar balance. Wheat Healthy fats contains an appetite stimulant, resulting in you eating Creed and Perks advise people to focus on the best more than you need. quality food that they can afford. “Consuming healthy fats such as coconut oil, olive oil, butter and other sources Blood test results of saturated fat from animal products is important.

Following a long period of intensive research, We advise avoiding toxic seed oils such as canola and the Fat Loss Lab has discovered an effective and sunflower oil. One should eat unprocessed, nutrientindividualised approach to weight loss and wellbeing, dense food as close to its natural state as possible. anchored in medical and scientific research.

“By eating low carb you are able to keep your blood “Because we know that hormonal imbalances result glucose and insulin levels within the normal ranges, in weight gain, mood swings and water retention, our which promotes fat -burning. Lowering your carb intake weight loss programmes are based on the client’s also significantly helps to control cravings for sweets and blood test results,” say the experts at Fat Loss Lab. starchy foods. Insulin is a very inflammatory hormone, so “We believe we are unique in that we don’t focus for good general health your goal should be to keep your solely on weight loss. We are specialists in nutrition, insulin levels as low as possible. The only way to do this fertility, hormonal balancing and anti-ageing.” is by eating a low carb diet.”

They note that the Fat Loss Lab treatment draws Perks and Creed explain that the high fat component food from all food groups and is a balanced eating of the diet is what helps you eat less because fat is plan. satisfying and takes away your hunger for long periods “We outline the medications you may take and we of time. “If you speak to anyone who is Banting properly request information on the medical conditions you they will tell you that they only eat about twice a day, have. Our doctors combine this information with your with no need to snack in between meals. It is actually a blood test results to create a suitable programme for very liberating way of eating. you alone. The blood tests allow us to analyse certain “The diet works very effectively for weight loss aspects of your system, which in turn indicates what because it allows you to naturally and effortlessly reduce is required to balance your body’s hormones,” say the the quantity of food that you eat. Compare that to other Fat Loss Lab experts. PB eating plans which advocate reducing calories and

Professional Beauty September 2014

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The curse of flab That old saying – ‘no pain, no gain’ – does not necessarily hold true in the realm of slimming treatments, where technologically advanced products and devices attack bulges and yield visible results, with no sweat and effort on the part of the client, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

O

ne of the simplest methods of body contouring is the technique of ‘body wrap’, or bandaging.

According to Symphony Health, the success of its Patricia Clarke Body Wrap is due to the combination of its anti-cellulite herb-based body contouring firming gel and neoprene bandages. The gel contains 27 different plant extracts with strengthening, diuretic and stabilising properties.

“It’s the compression of the bandages and the active ingredients of the gel that target the toxins in the adipose fatty tissue. They break it down through absorption by the lymph duct. As a result, the unwanted fatty tissue finally passes out through the body. These, together with the liposomes, maintain the contours of the body, helping to avoid a spongy appearance,” says Symphony Health’s Christelle Newsum.

One to two wraps per week are recommended, depending on the client’s personal goal. After a series of six wraps they can follow a maintenance programme of one wrap every four weeks.

“We stress to therapists that this is not a ‘sweat it out’ programme, or that type of slimming cure where the weight is fleetingly lost through profuse perspiration and regained after a cup of tea. The body remains dry throughout the wrap treatments, and, as intracellular fluids are mobilised, the diuretic properties assist in the elimination of cellulite,” explains Newsum.

She points out that the now much-improved gel was first R

Professional Beauty September 2014

slimming

62 used 28 years ago, and, since then, its effectiveness has been extensively tested with overwhelming acclaim. The ingredients fully comply with EEC regulations, and the use of the Patricia Clarke gel has been found to be free of any detrimental side effects.

Fat attack Phytomer’s Sculpt Zone is a Targeted Contouring Treatment Wrap that works the abdomen, buttocks and thighs. With the help of Phytomer’s new Celluli Attack liquid concentrate, fat cells are attacked, visibly reducing dimpled skin, cellulite and fatty tissue deposits and revealing a super-smooth toned body.

The treatment commences with intensive exfoliation techniques, followed by Phytomer’s targeted Thermo Sculpting Wrap.

A contouring anti-cellulite massage and specific detoxifying abdominal massage is finished off with Celluli Attack.

Sculpt Zone can be used as a stand-alone treatment to speed up detox. Clinical test results have shown that even further inch loss can be achieved long-term, if four treatments are carried out over two weeks, with two sessions a week.

The Universal Contour Wrap treatment is a unique blend of mineralrich clay and specialist body wrapping techniques that help to cleanse and detoxify the body while actively compressing the soft fatty tissues, to create instant and lasting centimetre loss.

Says Nadia Knox-Bredenhann of Universal Contour Wrap: “This is the world’s only proven body wrap brand to guarantee instant centimetre loss. The proven centimetre loss treatment guarantees that the client will lose a minimum of 15 centimetres on a first full treatment.”

Universal Contour Wrap’s Apres Care range includes the Exfoliation Scrub, Detoxifying Shower Gel and Firming Lotion.

On target Mio’s Full Monty Body Sculpt Contouring Treatment targets the main areas of concern – from cellulite-prone hips to upper arms, chest, bust and tightening the tummy.

The treatment comprises 90 minutes of radically energising, exfoliating, deep tissue massage that results in a tighter, more toned, fitter-feeling body.

Celluslim Therapy from Juliette Armand is a body treatment targeted at treating cellulite and topical fat.

Phytomer

The products used in the treatment are rich in active ingredients that activate the process of lipolysis and contribute to cellulite reduction.

Consequently, the skin becomes smoother and the body regains its shape.

Also from Juliette Armand comes Thermoslim Therapy, a body treatment designed to effectively treat topical fat and cellulite. It increases circulation and stimulates capillary microcirculation, which results in the promotion of cellular metabolism. Thermoslim Therapy decongests the tissue by combating cellulite and stimulates the process of lipolysis.

DMK Body Sculpting Treatment aims to get rid of unsightly cellulite and promises a smooth, dimple-free skin and a firmer body all over. Specially designed to help reshape, tone and sculpt the body, it gets rid of cellulite and unsightly puffy areas, delivering a smooth skin texture and a toned, firmer look all over the body, which will be free from the dimpled effect of cellulite. R

Professional Beauty September 2014

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Cupping From Lilian Terry International (LTI) comes a cellulite wrap that can be combined with LT FlexyCups and the Cellu 1, 2 & 3 set of massage complexes.

Says LTI’s Carli Argirova: “Our Cellu oils form a three-step system, each with its own important functionality.

Together, the oils tackle the causes and symptoms of cellulite effectively.

The LT FlexyCups not only accelerate the absorption and effect of these complexes but also improve skin tone and elasticity and increase circulation “Many of our stockists combine our wrap and our massage oils by letting the client come in for a body wrap with our Cellutheraphy natural clay wrap, followed by a massage with the appropriate Cellu 1, 2 or 3, depending on which stage the client is at in the treatment. Cellu 1 is used for two weeks, followed

by Cellu 2 for two weeks and then Cellu 3 for three weeks, after which the cycle is repeated. Our Cellu oils accelerate fat metabolism, increase circulation in the capillaries and promote elimination of toxins.”

Gel LipoSculpt Thermo gel, a slimming topical fat loss gel designed for the entire body, was developed by a team of researchers and biochemists to reduce fat and cellulite in the body. Results can be seen within three applications.

The product heats up when applied and is heat-activated thereafter, for example, every time you walk fast or when sitting on a warm car seat.

Fat starts melting at 40 degrees, and to flush the liquefied fat from your body you need to drink a lot of water. The product must be used daily.

LipoSculpt Thermo gel is 100% safe. It contains only natural ingredients and will easily be absorbed by your skin.

Other products in the range are LipoSculpt effervescent, LipoSculpt CLA and LipoSculpt Detox Caps.

Triple whammy The Ericson Laboratoire research department has developed a ‘triple slimming programme’ that enables clients to eliminate fat, reduce cellulite and slim down in record time, due to a trio of powerful slimming products.

Turbo Slim Fat Burner is composed of 20 active agents that help to eliminate fat, reduce cellulite and slim down the figure in six days, if the dietary programme included in each box is adhered to.

Turbo Slim Drainer is a draining and slimming drink high in caffeine (33mg/100 ml) with strong lipolytic power, composed of 80% plant extracts that enable draining and detoxifying the body to promote weight loss.

To complete the programme, Turbo Slim Waist is a complex of 14 fruits, fibres and plants in the form of chewable cubes.

Green coffee beans Actives found in DermaFix Cellulite Tone and Tighten are those associated with stimulation and are circulation-boosting.

“Fluid accumulation is reduced, metabolic activity is increased, and microcirculation and lymph flow are stimulated,” notes Ursula Hunt of DermaFix. “Green coffee beans (chlorogenic acids) alter how glucose is absorbed and have an effect on digestion and the body’s metabolic rate to increase energy and fat burning at a tremendous rate.

“Additionally, green coffee bean extract also contains natural caffeine that works to encourage the metabolism of the fats and the draining of accumulated water from the fatty tissues. This slimming gel is made from natural plant ingredients R

Professional Beauty September 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

TREATMENT CHALLENGES OVERCOME

fACiAL REjuVENAtiON

Before

After two treatments

Exilis wAs voTEd ThE BEsT skiN TighTENiNg PRoducT iN ThE usA.

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the Uniform module for reducing the appearance of cellulite. Used together, they thicken the dermal layer to improve skin laxity and firmness, contract connective tissue to improve skin texture and contour, and release trapped lymphatic fluids and triglycerides to compress and reduce the volume of adipose tissue.

Lastly, they enhance the excretion of interstitial fluid while contracting fibres and tissue, thus reducing the appearance of cellulite.

Alma Lasers’ Accent Ultra selective lipolysis ultrasound and RF body contouring workstation safely and effectively targets localised fat deposits and reduces body circumference for successful body contouring.

Chill factor made in accordance with modern scientific technology to produce the effective results of plant bio-activity.”

CORE technology Medilase, a member of the Hitech Group, distributes the FDA-cleared Viora Reaction bi-polar multifrequency RF energy and vacuum therapy device for body contouring and cellulite treatment. Called CORE (Channelling Optimised RF Energy), this technology provides the choice of three different levels for precise skin depths based on the required treatment for the client. CORE technology balances frequency, intensity and an integrated skin cooling system to ensure the safest and most effective skin-tightening results.

The lower the frequency, the deeper the penetration of RF energy is delivered. Also part of this system is a fourth multi-channel mode, which is an innovative approach that concurrently incorporates all three frequencies for a more comprehensive treatment.

Thinner, more sensitive, areas are treated using a higher frequency.

BellaDerma’s BellaFreeze is for cool sculpture (or cryolipolysis), a cellulite treatment method that applies low temperatures to tissue via thermal conduction. Cool sculpture selectively targets localised fat cells and reduces them by chilling them to just above freezing. Once crystallised, the fat cells die and are naturally eliminated from the body.

The BellaLipo devices utilises LLLT (Low Level Laser Therapy) to penetrate the skin’s surface and stimulate the fat cell membranes, changing their permeability. The fat cells reduce their overall size, and intracellular fat is released. Then the fatty triglycerides flow out of the disrupted cell membranes and into the interstitial space, where they gradually pass through the body’s natural metabolic functions with no harmful physiological effects, resulting in centimetre loss for patients.PB

Trio of modules Alma Lasers’ latest innovation, the Accent Elite RF-based platform, combines three body rejuvenation modules in one device. The Accent Elite includes the Unilarge module for deep dermal heating, the Bipolar module for superficial dermal heating, and

Professional Beauty September 2014

Viora Reaction

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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The se bu

Understanding non-invasive devices ° anský BTL Medical’s Branislav Suc explains what clients should look for when planning to undergo a non-invasive body-shaping treatment.

F

at cells are like a sponge – they can be filled or they shrink, and no technology can change that. Several machine-generated energies are used for slimming, the main aim being to heat the fat cells and cause lipolysis, where heated fat cells metabolise and change into free fatty acids and glycerol and are burned as energy. The basic prerequisite for this action is that the energy reaches the fat cells and maintains the effective heat for the necessary time. When a client loses volume in treated areas it is known as body-shaping/bodysculpting.

Technologies Light (usually red light 685nm): this technology is widely used for skin healing and is not suitable for slimming at all.

Ultrasound cavitation: this technology has received huge marketing support worldwide, but in my opinion it is misleading the public.

The manufacturers claim to destroy fat cells but fail to provide clinical evidence. If liposuction is performed, fat cells are removed and/or destroyed and the volume will not easily return in the treated area. After a cavitation treatment it is true the client will have the impression of immediate volume reduction, but unfortunately it won’t last long, as cavitation does not actually destroy fat cells. The reason for the immediate loss is temporary dehydration of the tissue and not slimming.

Radio Frequency (RF): it is crucial to distinguish between the types of RF machines. A unipolar machine works with a handpiece that sends the energy in all directions, similar to a broadcasting radio tower. If the clients can tolerate the treatment then slimming will occur. However the practitioner has no control of the energy direction and penetration.

Monopolar machines work with a handpiece and a grounding electrode. The energy is conducted through the body safely between the handpiece and electrode.

Therapists can choose between static handpieces or dynamic handpieces. If the handpiece is cooled at the same time, clients are able to tolerate the treatment and the heat can penetrate up to a few centimetres into the fat layer and cause lipolysis or even apoptosis. Medical studies prove apoptosis of fat cells heated to 45°C for approximately five minutes.

A bipolar machine has positive and negative poles on the handpiece and the energy travels between them only. The focus is 3-4mm under the skin surface. With our skin being 2-5mm thick, we can heat only a very thin layer of fat cells and so such machines are not a good choice for slimming. Some practitioners try to increase the depth of penetration by adding vacuum suction to the handpiece, but the results are still poor with regards to slimming. You might, however, achieve good skintightening results.

Professional Beauty September 2014

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Tripolar, quatropolar, oktopolar and multipolar machines are just a different version of bipolar technology and therefore not suitable for slimming.

With RF devices the frequency is important as well. The lower the frequency, the deeper the penetration – 1MHz RF will penetrate deeper than 3MHz. A bipolar 1MHz will not penetrate deeper than a 3MHz monopolar RF because of the penetration limitations of bipolar RF. Fat freezing: the treated tissue has to be sucked into the actual handpiece, where the fat cell has to be cooled to temperatures slightly above 0°C, which will cause it to disappear two to three months after the treatment. It is not a really a body resculpting treatment, as you are limited by the shape of the handpiece. However, manufacturers claim a reduction of approximately 20-25% of apoptic fat cells. PB

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ask the experts

71

Ask the experts

about retail

Professional Beauty asks Ilze Naurattel and Lee-Zay Adonis, lecturers at the Isa Carstens Academy, about the importance of retail sales in the spa/salon business.

Q

What percentage of total turnover should ideally come from retail?

Retail is extremely important in our industry.

It can instantly boost a spa or salon’s revenue, especially when the treatment room utilisation has been maximised to the full. There is nothing worse than having a wonderful treatment at a salon/spa where a therapist shares her knowledge on the client’s skin type, conditions and concerns, and then neglects to tell the client how to repair or maintain their skin. In general, a high revenue spa should generate between 3045% retail.

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Q

What is the best way to motivate staff to up their retail sales?

It is important to educate and equip the therapist with all the information and tools they need in order to make confident recommendations and close their sales. Hands-on management is important here, where the manager or the person in charge of the retail training is available at all times to assist the therapist with their retail, recommendations, closing the sales or dealing with objectives at the time. This will give the therapist confidence and once a therapist is confident in the selling process, she will improve daily and enjoy the satisfaction that comes with it. Also very important is to show the therapist what their potential earnings are, with and without retail. It is best to analyse what motivates each staff member as some are motivated by time off and others by recognition or reward, whether it be gifts or money. R

Professional Beauty September 2014

ask the experts

72

Q

Is it important to

set targets for retail sales? If so, how does one decide on realistic targets? Should retail targets be the same for all therapists in a spa/ salon?

It is extremely important to set targets. These targets should be communicated to the staff member the moment they start to work at the salon/spa. A manager should break down the target with the staff member and discuss (and show) how it could be reached. Targets should be broken down separately from the target that should be reached by the salon. From there it should be decided on how much can be generated in service according to the size of the salon, the time shifts being worked and the amount of therapists available. The rest should be brought in by retail or upselling/add-on of services. The retail percentage should then be worked out in order to reach the total amount. Therapists in a salon/spa should have different targets, which are reachable for them, otherwise you demotivate the staff. Targets should always be adapted after each monthly review.

Q

How do you work

out the retail commission structure?

This depends on management. The commission on retail should be more than on services in order to drive more sales. Different methods are applied of which a sliding scale is very popular as this allows a therapist to reach for higher targets.

Q

How often should

a spa/salon offer specials on retail products and how should one incentivise these specials?

This depends on the stock numbers and on the products that do not sell in the salon. A promotion should be created with an incentive to the staff member that sells the most. This can be done on a quarterly basis.

Q

What is the correct

protocol in terms of timing when trying to sell retail? At what point during the treatment should the therapist start promoting retail after-care products?

We believe that 15 minutes should be added to the client’s treatment time to assist in proper consultation and to close the sale in the treatment room.

The sale starts the minute the client walks into the room.

How do you train therapists to not to come across as overly pushy when trying to sell retail products to their customers?

This is achieved when the consultation process is done correctly and the therapist accurately ascertains the client’s main concern and educates the client in a professional manner on the solution for the concern.

Q

Should the therapist prime the receptionist

about the potential retail sale before the customer gets to reception to pay for the treatment?

As mentioned above, the therapist should close her sale in the treatment room, although it is advisable that the receptionist be informed of the sale in advance as she can assist in confirming the treatment/products, should the client still have questions.

Q

Any last words on generating sales?

Retail should not only be about selling, it is about generating more income. The focus should be on the needs of the client based on the condition of their skin and what results could be achieved. It should be about the journey you enter into when greeting the client until fulfilling her needs and achieving results. Generating sales is also about selling treatments, selling yourself and achieving the desired result. PB Established in 1978, the Isa Carstens Academy has a proud history of providing quality education and services to students who wish to follow a career path in the health and wellness industry. It was also the first CIDESCO-accredited institution in South Africa based on the quality of its programmes.

Professional Beauty September 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Why QMS Medicosmetics?

The simple answer is because the products work, whether used singly or in combination QMS Medicosmetics skincare collection and facial treatments deliver better results.

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treatment review - facials

75

Experiencing the

science of skincare

The QMS Skin Renewal Treatment with Ion Skin Equaliser (ISE) is a luxurious 90-minute facial that includes the infusion of oxygen into the skin, writes Belinda Wewege.

M

y treatment was performed by Jaslyn Jordaan, skin specialist at FutureThis, the exclusive importer and distributor of QMS Medicosmetics in South Africa, at their Illovo offices in Johannesburg.

Step one of the treatment was cleansing with QMS Deep Cleansing, a mineral oil-free, milky cleanser for all skin types.

For the exfoliation, Jordaan chose to use the MED Dermabrasive Gel as my skin is prone to inflammation.

Exclusive to QMS, this is a 7% fruit acid exfoliator with a pH of 3.5.

“This exfoliator is left on for 10 minutes and is gentle enough to use around the eye area. During this phase the therapist performs a head massage on the client while emphasising the importance of exfoliation,” explained Jordaan.

She then applied a second exfoliator onto my skin, on top of the first one. The Gentle Exfoliant Cream is an enzymatic exfoliator that warms up the skin to boost circulation. This exfoliator was massaged into my skin and felt luxurious and rich.

The next step was the Algae Mask, which I found fascinating in that it is applied over the whole face, including the mouth and eyes. After five minutes, Jordaan peeled off the mask.

She continued: “Not only does the mask remove the dead skin cells but it provides the therapist with

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an instant facial analysis. The imprint of your skin on the inside of the mask reveals areas of dehydration and shows where collagen and elastin are lacking.”

Jordaan then toned my skin with the alcohol-free, pH neutralising Freshening Tonic before applying Cellular Alpine Cream (with Alpine rose stem cells) around the eye area.

Before the oxygen infusion phase, Jordaan applied the Ion Skin Equalizer Night Serum, which contains zinc and copper and creates a microcurrent to stimulate collagen and elastin production.

“QMS’ customised oxygen machine is completely ionised and free of radicals. It delivers 98% pure oxygen to the skin cells. The concentration of oxygen in normal air is 21%, so by increasing the concentration of oxygen by approximately five times, we are significantly increasing skin cell metabolism,” explained Jordaan.

Following the oxygen infusion, Jordaan applied the Ion Skin Equalizer Night Cream before applying the Activator Mask. Full of hyaluronic acid, it was left on for 10 minutes and covered with foil to enhance penetration.

Jordaan used this time to massage my neck with Neck & More Cream. The treatment was completed with the application of the Ion Equaliser Cream, followed by the Sport Active Cream.

My skin felt lovely post facial and looked smooth and firm. PB

Contact: FutureThis 0860 018 022

Professional Beauty September 2014

treatment review - facials

76

It’s all in the eyes... and lips

T

Charlene Dickson experiences Anesi’s brand new professional treatment, the Expression Ritual Coffret, which is specifically designed for the eye and lip areas.

he treatment took place at the Johannesburg offices of Anesi’s South African distributor, Exclusive Beauty Solutions (EBS). Anesi brand and education ambassador, Yolandi Mestre, had just returned from the Anesi boot camp in Spain, where she learnt about the company’s new vision.

Said Mestre: “As per Anesi’s new directive, all products now need to show immediate results. Anesi did previously have an eye treatment, but it focused on dark circles and puffiness only, and not on wrinkles and fine lines. This treatment has now been reformulated specifically to address antiaging.”

To commence the Expression Ritual Coffret treatment Mestre cleansed my skin with Anesi’s Aqua Vital Radiance Mousse, followed by an application of Aqua Vital Lotion to tone the skin.

The exfoliation was done with Harmony Crème Gommage Caresse.

This is a mild exfoliator that can be used around the lips and eyes and can even be applied to the eyelids.

After three minutes, Mestre removed the exfoliator with warm water and mitts and re-toned the skin with the Aqua Vital Lotion.

“I’m now going to massage the eye and lip area with Expression Concentrate Serum,” explained Mestre. “The massage needs to stimulate blood circulation so I use upward movements and focus on areas where there are deep lines. What I really like about this treatment is that it encompasses the lip area as well as the eyes.”

The massage felt incredibly soothing. Next came the alginate mask – the Expression Mask. This comes in powder form and is mixed with mineral water. Mestre applied the mask to my eyes and lips and left it to set

for 10 minutes. During this time she massaged my neck and shoulder area with Anesi’s Soin du Corps Crème Modelage.

Once Mestre peeled off the mask she applied Eyelash Serum to my eyelashes and eyebrows and gave me the serum for home use. She then applied Expression Care Cream, Anesi’s new anti-ageing cream, on my eye and mouth area.

The final stage of the treatment was the application of Aqua Vital Cream to moisturise the entire face.

“Ideally we recommend four treatments once a week and then maintenance once a month. Salons can either offer this 40-minute treatment as a stand-alone treatment or they can incorporate it into an Anesi facial,” concluded Mestre.

Active ingredients in the treatment include paracress (acmella oleracea) plant extract, sodium hyaluronate complex and barley extract for maximum hydration and wrinkle filling. The formulation is enriched with ash tree bark, organic silicon and Vitamin B3 to act on puffiness, bags and dark circles. It also includes a specific sym-peptide that increases the density and length of the eyelashes. PB

Contact: Exclusive Beauty Solutions 011 791 4027

Professional Beauty September 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Tel: 086 112 6374 \ 011 791 4027 www.exclusivebeauty dalize@exclusivebeauty.co.za

treatment review - facials

78

‘Spooning’ A brand-new, South Africandeveloped anti-ageing facial incorporates the use of an unusual massage tool, as Yolanda Knott discovers.

T

he Skin Doctors 1-Hour Manual Face Lift Treatment was developed over the course of a year by Ayesha Rajah, MD of A&I Importers, the exclusive distributor of the Skin Doctors range in South Africa.

Rajah, who performed my treatment at the Verona Day Spa in Houghton, explained that the Skin Doctors head office in Australia gave her the go-ahead to create a unique antiageing facial.

“I was inspired to create the facial because of the demand from the salons and spas that we supply. Skin Doctors is such a wonderful range that our stockists wanted a professional anti-ageing salon treatment to complement it. We pitched the treatment to Australia and they were delighted. They said they’d received requests for just such a treatment from their other stockists around the world,” said Rajah.

She stressed that this is a cosmeceutical facial that utilises anti-oxidants and peptide technology and includes a neurolymphatic massage. A resurfacing component forms an integral part of the treatment.

Rajah continued: “The massage element was developed together with a wellness therapist who works with Bell’s Palsy victims. We use a spoon-like massage tool that contours the facial structure and has an instant lifting effect. Skin Doctors has patented this neuro-lymphatic massage.”

The treatment began with the Accelerating Cleanser, which contains lactic acid to cleanse the skin thoroughly,

while mildly exfoliating it at the same time.

Next was an eight-minute re-surfacing process with Powerbrasion crystals, which contain Australian tea tree oil for soothing and antiinflammatory purposes, as well as urea for moisture. This was performed with a battery-driven hand-held device – the Skin Doctors Powerbrasion Unit. The massaging action of the Powerbrasion Unit helps to increase micro-circulation.

My skin felt alive during this process. I could actually feel the improved circulation. This was completely different to standard microbrasion in that it wasn’t at all sore or aggressive.

Rajah then did a second cleanse with the Accelerating Cleanser, after which she applied Skin Doctors’ Gamma-Hydroxy.

The next phase was the mask, using the Superfacelift Face Lift Cream, which has Vitamins E and A, antioxidants, peptides and lactic acid. It is left to penetrate fully into the skin and is not washed off.

For the massage, Rajah used Skin Doctors Youth Cell as it is packed with stem cells and peptides.

To end the treatment Rajah applied the Skin Active 14-Day cream and recommended Superfacelift and Youth Cell for home care.

Post-facial I could definitely see a difference in my nasal labial folds and jawline, with both these areas plumped up and smoother as a result of the unique massage technique. PB

Contact: A&I Importers on 011 486 4904

Professional Beauty September 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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business tips

80

A ‘fruity’ facial

Incorporating the pulp of fresh fruit into a professional salon facial is not a new practice, but is fairly unusual in this day and age, writes Palisa Shongwe.

W

hen I arrived at the Lukap Divine Day Spa in Hillcrest, Gauteng, owner Glenrose Nkosi explained that she was offered a Nature’s Secrets facial prior to opening the spa three months ago.

“My skin normally reacts whenever I have a facial, but in this instance it didn’t react at all. The Nature’s Secrets products are fabulous and my clients love them.

“I’m very green and holistic in my outlook, so the fact that the Nature’s Secrets range is based on 5000 years of Sri Lanka’s herbal heritage really impressed me. They use only the purest, locally grown natural ingredients directly from source,” said Nkosi.

She told me that therapist Thandi Zulu would mix crushed strawberries into the Nature’s Secrets Kokum Face Pack, which constituted the core of my facial. Strawberries have long been used in skincare due to their anti-oxidant properties and the fact that they are rich in Vitamin C. The first part of the facial consisted of a thorough cleanse. Zulu pre-cleansed with the Tamarind Facial Wash, followed by the Turmeric Cleanser.

Next, Zulu used the Cucumber Toner to prepare my skin for exfoliation. My face felt very clean and light at this stage.

To exfoliate, Zulu used the Sandun Scrub and I could feel the granules lightly scouring my skin. Zulu then massaged my face and pressure points with Nature’s Secrets Body Butter with Avocado & Sesame Oil. The purpose of this 10-minute massage was to stimulate circulation, release tension and to exercise the facial muscles.

While preparing the Kokum Face Pack, which comes in

powder form, Zulu said: “I’m mixing the face pack with half a teaspoon of Nature’s Secrets Aloe Vera 94% Skin Soothing Gel and about two tablespoons of crushed strawberries.

“The Kokum Face Pack is a multibiologically active herbal powder pack that nourishes, softens and soothes the skin. Kokum has Ayurvedic properties and this is combined with the antioxidant properties of Red Rice Bran to help diminish fine lines and age spots. It also helps lighten the skin, while repairing damaged cells.”

Zulu left the mask on for 10 minutes and placed two slices of cucumber over my eyelids as cucumber has an anti-inflammatory effect and reduces puffiness, swelling and dark circles.

Once the mask was removed Zulu applied Aloe 94% Skin Soothing Gel to calm my skin before applying the moisturiser – the Almond Nourishing Cream.

My skin looked and felt amazing post-facial. I was advised not to apply make-up to my face for 24 hours. PB

Contact: Nature’s Secrets 082 357 7331

Professional Beauty September 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Hand Cream Anti-bacterial & anti-microbial

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make-up

83

Professional make-up technologies for HD Now that the high definition (HD) camera is the standard for television and film, we have had to adjust to seeing everything, including make-up, in magnified detail, writes Charlene Warwick.

W

hether we like it or not, HD has become a part of our everyday lives, with even our smart phones equipped with HD cameras. HD is a technology that affects those who are regularly in front of the camera, and, extra-especially, we professionals who are trying to make them look good.

In addition, with the rise in social media sites such as Facebook and Instagram, even the ‘everyday’ woman finds herself wanting to look her best on these internet platforms.

I am often asked, “What is the difference R

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Professional Beauty September 2014

make-up

84 between HD cameras and normal cameras?” To answer this question I explain that if one were to compare the grainy, muted images on photos taken of our grandparents to photos taken today, it would be similar to the stark difference between standard definition cameras of a few years ago and the images produced by HD cameras of today.

In the same way that those older photos are so much less clear and sharp than more modern photos, so too does HD produce a super-clear, magnified image that shows details that not even the eye may pick up.

HD-friendly

An ‘HD’ product is usually formulated with super-fine particles that will blend easily and smoothly on the skin without tell-tale marks or visible texture.

Make-up photographed or filmed in HD can look obvious, and imperfections may seem insurmountable. The good news is that there are now a large variety of products that can handle the intense microscope that is HD, many of which are labelled ‘HD’.

An ‘HD’ product is usually formulated with super-fine particles that will blend easily and smoothly on the skin without tell-tale marks or visible texture. The products are often highly pigmented in order to ensure that minimal product is used in order to get a good colour pay-off.

As the HD camera picks up such fine details, any visibly applied product will be immediately noticeable. This means that products need to look as natural and subtle as possible, while still delivering on areas such as coverage, smoothness and colour.

It is, however, important to remember that HD is a technology, not a product. Just because a product calls itself HD doesn’t mean it’s your only option – or even your best one. For professionals this means that when it comes to choosing a foundation range for your kit, the golden rule in HD-appropriate make-up is to stay away from anything that is ‘too’ anything – too shiny, too glittery, too matte, too much – and you’ll deliver a gorgeous look that won’t distract. R

Here are a few of the products and tools that I rely on when working in HD: Graftobian HD Cream Foundations; Stila Hydrating Primer; Inglot Gel Liners; MUD Lipsticks and Lip glosses; Graftobian Setting Spray; The Original Beauty Blender; Inglot Translucent Loose Powder; Graftobian HD Airbrush Foundations; Bodyography Translucent Pressed Powder;

HD make-up

tips

•

Use a talc-free powder to prevent shine.

Opt for a formula that is as finely milled as possible as you can build up coverage to full without worrying about having a chalky finish on the skin.

•

Since the camera picks up a thick application of make-up, apply concealer only to the areas where you need a bit of extra coverage. Finish with a layer of BB or CC Cream to smooth, correct and conceal minor flaws and blemishes on the skin.

•

If you feel you still need the coverage provided by foundation, apply your foundation to the centre of the face only, nose, forehead and chin and blend softly outwards using a beauty blender or stippling brush to avoid obvious foundation marks.

•

Avoid using too much colour, as pixels pick up pigment too, whether it’s on the eyes, lips or cheeks. This applies both to bright colours and deep shades like black. Instead of black liner, try a dark grey or brown.

•

Rather than filling the brow entirely, which will look heavy on camera, apply colour only at the base and bottom of the brow and blend softly into the rest of the brow. This creates definition and fullness in the brow without it looking too dark.

•

Nothing looks weirder in HD than seeing shimmer or sparkle on the face. If you’re applying a shimmery eye shadow, make sure that the shimmer doesn’t go higher than the crease, and rather opt for matte bronzers for the face.

Iwata Compressor and Airbrush Gun.

Professional Beauty September 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

make-up

86 The art of airbrush There are some people who believe airbrushing is some kind of magic wand. It is really just another brush, which, if used incorrectly, can deliver a very unsatisfactory result, while there may be some flawless hand applied make-up applications. An airbrush is just a tool; it’s up to the make-up artist how they master it.

According to my research, the earliest record of airbrush make-up application dates back to the 1935 film version of Ben-Hur. Airbrush makeup has recently been repopularised by the advent of HD television and digital photography.

In these mediums the camera picks up more detail than in any other. Thinly textured liquid foundations with a high coverage are applied with an airbrush to give full coverage without a heavy build-up of product.

Airbrush make-up is designed to be applied with the same airbrush technology used for traditional painting work. The airbrush systems designed for make-up are usually smaller and work at a lower pressure than traditional paint systems.

When shooting in HD television, the camera picks up everything, every flaw, every line, wrinkle and discoloration. By applying the make-up with an airbrush, the artist can ensure a smooth, flawless finish that still looks completely natural on the camera.

What makes an airbrush the best application for this medium is that it distributes a very high-coverage foundation as evenly and as thinly as possible, starting with literally microscopic amounts. You get maximum coverage using minimal product. In addition, it also applies the foundation in the same way the camera reads it – in tiny ‘pixels’. For this reason, the foundation appears more even on camera, and it doesn’t create the tiny imprints and lines that sponges and brushes make, and that the camera picks up, even though the naked eye does not.

You want the finish to be as fresh as possible, and not bogged down with excessive powder, which will, of course, register on camera.

Foundations that contain heavy moisturising ingredients, such as emollients and silicone, may look gorgeous in person and for still photography, beauty, editorial, etc, just not in HD. The true advantage of using an airbrush is that you get maximum coverage using minimal product, and you get it fast. You also get it in a spray ‘dot’ pattern, which registers more cleanly on a camera that reads images in pixels (small dots) than the swipe of a sponge or brush.

As such, when applied to any professional situation, the advantage or airbrushing for HD and digital photography is obvious.

An airbrush is also convenient for quick bases when you have limited time such as when working on fashion shows or on bridesmaids, for instance. You can also lay airbrush on top of acne as it covers blemishes far better than a normal concealer without the risk of infecting tools and brushes. Hand applications can still be done when a certain texture is desired that isn’t available in an airbrush product.

In addition, airbrush make-up is extremely long-lasting and can wear on the skin for up to 24 hours or more if applied correctly. PB

Shine is the enemy of HD film and television, reducing even the most beautiful glow to oily grease on the camera.

Texture For HD, the texture of the foundation you work with is very important; it is always preferable to err on the side of a more matte finish. Shine is the enemy of HD film and television, reducing even the most beautiful glow to oily grease on the camera. What may look normal in reality can still show up on the camera as being very shiny.

While it’s true that most foundations can be matted out with powder, this contradicts the purpose of airbrushing.

Charlene Warwick is the owner of Face & Grace Make-up Agency, which offers professional hair, make-up and image consultancy services. With well over 10 years in the fashion and beauty industry, Warwick has worked with a number of theatre and television productions, and has been commissioned to perform hair and make-up on an on-going basis for fitness competitions. She did make-up and styling for this year’s SAMAs and the AKA music video, Celebrate.

Professional Beauty September 2014

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make-up

88

Spotlight on

under-eye shadows

Renowned American make-up artist and educator Donna Mee provides tips on how make-up artists can camouflage dark circles on clients.

T

o cover dark circles, you need two things: a soft synthetic bristle brush and a moist concealer in a specific shade. To find the right one, you need to determine the actual colour that the discolouration appears to be. It’s simple colour theory from there.

Remember making a colour wheel in high school art class? You were given red, blue and yellow paint and from those three colours you were shown how to create a rainbow of colours that included green, violet and orange, in addition to six tertiary colours. If you remember where each colour lines up in the circle you can easily determine what colour concealer will work best to camouflage dark circles. You can buy a colour wheel at any art supply store or find one online and print it out. Opposite colours will cancel each other out when applied on top of each other.

Concealer Most commonly, under-eye circles have a slightly bluish look, which means an orangetoned concealer will hide the blue. Some under-eye circles have more of a purple cast to

Professional Beauty September 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

make-up

89 If you remember where each colour lines up in the circle you can easily determine what colour concealer will work best to camouflage dark circles. them, which needs a yellow-toned concealer. Redviolet under-eye circles should use olive (yellowgreen). If you have a blue-violet discolouration, use peach (yellow-orange). Equally important is knowing the right colour concealer to look for, so make sure to select one that is close to the level of lightness or darkness of the overall skin tone. In other words, if you need an olive concealer, don’t use a dark olive if the client has fair skin!

Not all concealers are the same. They can range from sheer and watery to drier formulas with heavier coverage. The best formulas to utilise colour theory with are sheer to medium in coverage. Also look for a formula that is moist and not too dry, since the eye area has no pores. The drier formulas that are best for facial blemishes are too dry and will appear cakey around the eyes.

If dark circles are a major concern for your clients, you should suggest that they consider lessening the darkness instead of just covering it up. I recommend that they invest in a good, daytime eye cream. Most women are under the impression that the skin around their eyes is actually a darker pigment, which is not true in most cases. Because the skin around the eyes is seven times thinner than the rest of the face, the skin in this area is somewhat transparent. The vein and muscle tissue beneath the skin is the real culprit of dark circles. The more hydrated the skin around the eye area becomes, the less dark your under-eye area will appear. In addition to helping to eliminate the darkness, and as an even better bonus, eye cream will help to keep the delicate eye area firm and moist to prevent it from ageing at the rate it would age otherwise.

Women should invest in an eye cream by the age of 18 or so and use it daily, regardless of whether they wear make-up or not. PB Donna Mee is considered one of the top educators on the subjects of skin, anti-ageing and make-up in the world.

She has developed many advanced methods on makeup to include colour theory and corrective beauty makeup. She owns and operates multiple beauty businesses in Southern California and travels internationally, giving educational master classes.

Professional Beauty September 2014

NEW!

The Top Selling European nail brand is now available in South Africa.

The Crisnail range of professional products includes: Acrylic System Advanced Gel System Gel Polish Manicure and Pedicure ranges Nail Polishes with quick drying time and durability

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nails

91

Perfection at your

fingertips Creating and setting up the perfect nail salon is becoming more and more challenging in a fast growing and very competitive industry. As a result, nail salons are offering far more than your average, run-of the mill services and offerings, writes Sonette van Rensburg.

W

ith clients knowwing far more about the industry than they used to, they have higher demands and expectations and are always in constant pursuit of the perfect salon.

Some clients may require a quiet, peaceful environment in which to just relax and rejuvenate, while others may need a quick service. Then there are those clients who have specific needs and will want sound advice about particular concerns, treatments and professional products. No matter what their needs are, they will visit your salon for far more than just a hand, foot and nail service or treatment. Clients will come to trust your establishment, build a rapport with your staff and believe in the products you use.

Last but not least, they want to feel comfortable in the environment you create and enjoy the little extras you have to offer.

Setting up a perfect salon encompasses various elements that are imperative to the success of your business. Here are some of the most important aspects to consider:

The location: This could depend on the area you are setting up in. A busy shopping mall may not always be the ideal spot, it depends on the type of salon you want to create and also the type of clients you want to attract. If your salon is well liked by R

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty September 2014

nails

92

your clients it will become more than just a salon but a destination to which clients will go, no matter where it is.

The concept & environment: The look and feel: remember that it’s all good and well having the latest and most trendy looking salon and state of the art furniture, but it needs to be practical and comfortable at the same time. I have been into some of the most stunning salons, but once you sit down to have a treatment you are so uncomfortable you can’t wait to get out of there.

Furniture & equipment: this should be well thought out and planned, taking comfort and safety into consideration.

Make sure work stations are easy for clients to get to and that their path is free from any obstructions that could cause injury.

Hygiene & safety: I cannot put enough emphasis on how important this is to clients and the staff. Having proper hygiene and cleanliness standards and procedures in place can make or break your business. Your entire salon should be treated as a haven and everything should undergo ‘universal sanitation’ to make sure that cross contamination of bacteria, fungal spores and viruses are not only eliminated but kept under control and to a minimum.

Little extras: • Handbags and jackets – a place to put handbags and hang coats and jackets.

• Electronic equipment – a place to plug in and charge tablets, phones and laptops.

• Plasma and TV screens – make sure they are in the client’s direct line of vision and that their neck does not feel like it’s been twisted out of place. Ensure the content is appropriate, interesting and up to date.

• Beverages – if you are going to have a beverage station make sure it’s not in the way of clients and make your offering worthwhile. If you don’t have one, let your clients know that you would be happy to order

something from the nearest coffee shop. Strike up a good relationship and partnership with the coffee shop owner so as to prevent delays and bad service.

The staff: This is one of your most important factors.

Understanding what it entails to perform and maintain certain practices in the work environment is a very important first step towards achieving high and professional standards.

Training – nail stylists have quite a demanding task and are required to provide a selection of beauty services, so deeper knowledge of customer care and communication, selling skills, hygiene & sanitation, anatomy, diseases & disorders and technical skills and abilities, are imperative to ensure the safe and proper care of their clients and themselves. * Role & working schedules – staff should know exactly what is expected of them and what their roles are to ensure they are efficient.

• Treatment & product offering - hand, foot and nail care services range from a basic service to more deluxe, spa and even signature treatments. Addon services can also be added to upgrade any other treatment that does not already include a particular service. Treatments can be customised R

Professional Beauty September 2014

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nails

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Finer details Lea Castro from LCN reveals some of the finer details to creating a perfect salon.

T

o set your business apart from the competition there are many aspects to take into account. It is easy to get a client to visit your salon once based on the look and feel of your business but her experience will determine if she returns and frequents your salon above another.

• The way your client is welcomed when entering the door is the first impression which endures – the receptionist needs to be polite, friendly and warm.

in this way to suit and accommodate the client’s needs. However, all the basic steps and techniques for these treatments remain the same. What makes them different are the products that are used, along with specialised techniques, equipment and little added extras, to take it from being just a basic service to something a little more unique.

Make sure that the brands you take on give you after sales and training support.

• Treatment & service menu – compiling a service menu takes careful consideration as to what you can offer your clients that is a little different but will accommodate their needs.

• Retail area – make sure it well situated, clean and stocked with professional well-known brands and products. Prices should be visible and samples available.

Always remember that it’s not so much what you do but how you do it that counts.PB

Sonette van Rensberg has been in the nail and beauty industry for 25 years. She consults with salons and spas and trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail and beauty technology, basic salon skills, client relations and perfecting technical skills. email: sonettevr@gmail.com or tel: 076 585 4191

• The client should be escorted to the nail station by the therapist who receives her at reception.

• The client must be offered something to drink.

• The nail station needs to have comfortable hydraulic chairs which can be adjusted to the correct height for the client.

• A hand rest placed in the centre of the table with centralised UV or LED light is ideal. The client’s hands are relaxed and the nail technician can then comfortably rotate the fingers without any pressure on her or the client’s hands.

• Correct lighting is essential – the perfect option would be to have LED lighting in the ceiling which shines directly onto the work area. Lighting must be very bright with a white light. Alternatively, a nail table lamp is essential – this also needs to be a bright, cool, white light.

• Commencing the treatment with a gentle exfoliation helps relax the client and directs the conversation

Professional Beauty September 2014

from the start towards the importance of quality products and the benefit they will have on the overall look and feel of the client’s hands.

• The process of nail enhancement should not be uncomfortable for the customer at any point, whether working on the nails or cuticles.

• Having the necessary retail items on offer and in the client’s eye line is the secret to increasing your retail sales – see it, smell it, buy it! Have the correct information accessible, for example product cards etc.

It is the nail technician’s responsibility to give the client all the necessary information and allow her to make an informed decision on what she needs.

• Also remember that your nail station, products, retail products, displays etc need to be spotless.

• As part of your treatment closing, apply the relevant cream that best suits your client’s need to the top of her hands and then massage it in. Be sure not to put cream on the palm of the client’s hand unless necessary. This will teach her to only use the cream where needed. While you massage ask the question: “What can I get you today?” or “How many would you like?”

The final key factor is to book the client’s next appointment before she leaves. It is easier to confirm an appointment already in your diary then to call and try to secure one.

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Centurion Academy is registered with the Department of Education as a private higher education institution under the Higher Education Act, No. 101 of 1997. Registration Certificate no 2001/HE07/003. Provisionally registered with the Department of Education, until 31 December 2014, as a private further education and training college under the Further Education and Training Colleges Act. 2006. Registration no.2008/FE07/057.

hair news

97

Crowning glory Tress-a-licious news from the hair front.

Smooth strokes The Kent range of brushes is ideal for creating sleek styles or root-based volume. Its smallest ceramic radial brush is ideal for blow-drying fringes or creating root lift in shorter hair. The ceramic barrel heats up faster and retains its temperature longer than other style of brush, allowing for greater, more accurate results and faster blow-drying times.

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Super shine The Inoar Extreme Premium Oil is a lightweight, nongreasy silicone-infused hair oil that effectively treats split ends while giving the hair a dazzling shine. In addition, it works to calm frizz and to nourish dry and damaged hair intensely. This luxurious hair treatment oil contains extracts of myrrh, argan, macadamia and rose imperial oils.

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Better world John Paul Mitchell Systems’ CEO John Paul DeJoria continues to work towards ensuring that the company follows earthfriendly policies and strategies. He made Paul Mitchell the first hair care company to publicly oppose animal testing and created aerosol products that meet stringent Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC) standards in California. The company harvests botanicals without harm to the environment and uses giant solar panels to harness the sun’s energy on the Awapuhi Farm on the north shore of Hawaii.

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Curly care From D.E. & Co. Hair Essentials comes the DE Natural Honey Curl-Forming Custard with Honey & Chamomile, which defines, shapes and elongates curls and coils, providing lasting hold, without residue for highly defined, frizz-free curls with brilliant shine. The DE Natural Honey & Shea Edge Tamer is a moisturising, firmer-hold edge control gel designed for curly to coily hair that securely lays down the hairline.

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Professional Beauty September 2014

Revolutionise the fight against ageing , one free radical at a time...

TheraVine��s UltraVine� Advance Range is based on the latest breakthrough scientific active complexes, promoting the ultimate in superior anti-ageing results by repairing the skin�s D�A system. The iconic anti-ageing jewel, the UltraVineTM Advance Rejuvenating Gold Collagen Film, further revolutionises the fight against ageing � a synergy of next generation actives infused in a unique plantsourced collagen film to help brighten the skin's complexion, lock-in moisture and fight the signs of ageing. The addition of pure, soft 24K Gold and sparkling Diamond Dust further enhance the effects of the supercharged actives leaving the skin moisturised and glowing with illumination.

The UltraVine� Advance Cellular Gold Facial effectively combines cosmeceutical science with the luxury of a spa experience, providing clients with time to relax while, at the same time, delivering younger looking skin with a radiating golden glow. Because the UltraVineTM Advance Range is high in ground-breaking antioxidants, it immediately becomes a must-have for anyone intent on combating the ageing process as it is crucial in the prevention of cellular damage. While luxuriously soft and delicately scented products provide a sensory journey, the skin is scientifically transformed into an advanced state of renewal and serenity.

TheraVine� - South Africa�s sensory gift to scientific skin care.

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product focus – exfoliaters

The rough & the smooth

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Regular exfoliation, or the sloughing off of dead skin cells on the epidermis, is essential for maintaining smooth, healthy skin and for creating a base for optimum moisture absorption.

Melt away The Refreshing Melting Scrub from Gatineau comprises wax beads of various diameters which eliminate impurities and dead cells. NMF (Natural Moisturising Factor) helps prevent dehydration by retaining water in the skin. It also contains Allantoin for a soothing effect.

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Papaya aplenty Dr. Gobac Exfoliating Masque is a creamy masque with papaya enzyme that gently exfoliates the skin without damaging the top epidermal layer of the skin, leaving it smooth, silky and soft. Regular use results in a radiant complexion.

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Silk-like scrub

Mio Double Buff is described as ‘body buffing on speed’.

It’s called ‘Double’s because it exfoliates twice, in half the time. This dual action body scrub instantly transforms rough, dull skin into skin that’s superbly soft, smooth, radiant and dewy.

Part of Pevonia Botanica’s Ligne Nymphea line, the Silky Skin Body Scrub contains natural jojoba granules, rose essential oil, chamomile and soapwort.

These ingredients work together to exfoliate dead cells, remove accumulated residues and skin impurities, and stimulate superficial circulation. The scrub renders rough and dry areas soft and smooth, resulting in a more youthful skin.

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Professional Beauty September 2014

product focus – exfoliaters

100 Powder paradise A unique blend of organic enzyme rich powders, DermaFix DermaPolish micro-exfoliates and cleanses the skin, leaving it noticeably smoother and brighter.

DermaPolish is packed in dry form to maintain its effectiveness and freshness. Water activates the enzymes together with hydroxy acids, smoothing, softening and brightening the skin.

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Lighten up The BareBody Skin Lightening Exfoliating Gel Wash is suitable for all skin types and is a gentle and soothing face and body gel wash that supports skin lightening and the visible reduction of pigmentation. It exfoliates while adding radiance to the skin.

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Pumice base

Soft touch Phytomer’s Vegetal Exfoliant is formulated to suit even sensitive skin. This enzymatic exfoliant eliminates impurities and dead cells, resulting in a clear and soft skin and radiant complexion. Its effect is complemented by Phytomer’s Hydracontinue 12H Moisturising Flash Gel, which gives skin a moisturising bath from morning to night.

With their new improved formulation, Patricia Clarke Exfoliators exfoliate and moisturise the skin. It is left clean and soft, with no oily residue. Available in Honey & Rooibos, Aloe Lemongrass and Choc-Mint, the base of the exfoliators is pumice stone. They also contain cocos nucifera and butyrospermum parkii fruit butter.

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Professional Beauty September 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

product focus – exfoliaters

SCINDERM MEDICAL

101

K o j i D e r m C A B T M S y s t e m S e r u m / P a d s / T o u c h S t i c k w/SKIN LIGHTENING ADDITIVE High Potency Skin Brightening System

Plunge pool Perfect for newly exfoliated skin, Aqua Vital Cream MPC30 from Ericson Laboratoire plunges the skin into a moisturising bath to replenish it with water. A true water reservoir, the Aquafix Serum MPC30 instantly compensates for the skin’s water deficiencies.

Its hydro-gel formula maintains a maximum level of hydration by binding water in the tissues.

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Contains enzyme-activated Arbutin for enhanced skin lightening and brightening

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Fortified with Kojic and Ascorbic acids for chelating and anti-oxidant benefits Light weight fragrance—and preservative-free solution vehicle Available in three different applications - Serum, pads and touch stick for face, hands, body and spot areas of hyperpigmentation

Daily duty Dermalogica Daily Resurfacer is a leave-on exfoliating treatment to brighten and tone all skin conditions. Each precisely-measured, leave-on daily dose contains one application of alpha and beta hydroxy acids and enzymes to smooth the skin, helping to reduce the signs of premature ageing without irritation or redness.

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Melanoceutical Skin Brightening System For more information or to book for product training, contact Tracey: Cell: 076 937 6388; email: info@scinderm.co.za or visit us at www.scinderm.co.za Available exclusively - dispensing from Medical or Aesthetic Professionals

Professional Beauty September 2014

TRADE ENQUIRIES WELCOME

medical aesthetics

102

In the

‘dark’ T

he causes of DC are multi-factorial, but they can be grouped into three categories – shadow in the valley, superficial venous congestion, and discolouration of the skin.

Each patient may have several problems that contribute to DC. Careful evaluation of the patient, as well as advanced medical imaging technologies, such as the Canfield Vectra, assists the physician in assessing the relative contributions of each factor.

A shadow in the valley The most common reason for DC is the presence of a groove under the eyelid which lies in shadow. Accentuating the problem is the age-associated loss of mid-facial volume below the groove, as well as excess tissue above the groove from ‘eye bags’, which themselves are multifactorial. New anatomical insights regarding the fat distribution and ligamentous anatomy of the soft tissues around the eye have revolutionised our understanding of the hollow groove under the eyes. In particular, the anatomy of the orbicularis retaining ligaments (ORLs) and tear trough ligaments (TTLs) provides an anatomical basis for modern surgery and filler injection techniques.

Superficial venous congestion A bluish-grey colour under the eyelids may be the result of dilated superficial veins, which are more apparent in this region because of the extreme thinness of the skin and the absence of subcutaneous fat, and may be more apparent

Dark circles (DC) under the eyes are a common and difficult aesthetic problem to solve.

Plastic surgeon Dr Marshall Murdoch explains DC, which encompasses several conditions that alone, or in combination, result in similar appearance.

in some patients than in others. Skin colour, genetic predisposition and multiple local and systemic conditions, such as fatigue, allergies, renal and liver disorders (among others) may exacerbate the venous congestion.

Discolouration of the skin Discolouration may be the result of true pigmentation with excess melanin and should be differentiated from skin-staining (skin-staining by haemosiderin may follow even slight trauma). Excess melanin may occur following inflammation, UV exposure and may even be genetically determined, as in cutaneous idiopathic hyperchromia of the orbital region (CIHOR) – a syndrome which affects many people, particularly those of Indian heritage.

Available treatments There are a number of scientifically validated modalities available to treat DC. The efficacy, applicability and synergy of the various options depend on the anatomical combination of problems with which a patient presents, and treatment should thus be individualised.

Professional Beauty September 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

medical aesthetics

Lumenis M22 ®

103

Multiple Technologies in One Modular System

In terms of surgery, while traditional lower-lid blepharoplasty has been performed for many years, present anatomical concepts would seem to favour the trans-conjunctival approach, in combination with other surgical manoeuvres. Release of the arcus marginalis and elevation of the ORL and TTL have significantly improved surgical results. Understanding the three-dimensional volumes changes has led to surgical repositioning of the retro-septal fat, or liposculpture with micro/nano fat injections.

Performance ALL you need ALL in one Treatment for over 30 skin conditions and hair removal

Dermal fillers

These devices are expensive to buy and maintain and marketing promises are often an over-optimisation of actual results. Nevertheless, a moderate body of scientific data is available to support the devices discussed below. It is important to realise that the results of a device are related both to the device itself, as well as its operator.

Lasers, such as carbon dioxide and Q-switched alexandrite or ruby, improve pigmentation and effect skin-tightening. Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) and radio R

Universal IPL

Universal IPL with OPT - Lentigos Courtesy of J. Matthew Knight, MD

• Optimal Pulse Technology

(OPT™) • Single handpiece with

changeable filters and lightguides • For IPL skin treatments using photorejuvenation

ResurFX™

After

Before

3 weeks after 2 treatments, with 15 months between treatments

Baseline

ResurFX™ - Skin Resurfacing Courtesy of Matteo Tretti Clementoni, MD

Energy-based devices

Multiple Technologies

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non-ablative, with CoolScan™ scanner • No disposables • For skin resurfacing

3 months after 3 treatments, with 1 month between treatments

Baseline

Multi-Spot™ Nd:YAG

Multi-Spot™ Nd:YAG - Leg Veins

• The only one with Multiple

Courtesy of Gilly Munavalli, MD

Two areas need to be treated when considering this option. The deep cheek fat situated in the midface below the DC is almost always treated first, as the mid-face is the aesthetic foundation of the eye.

Volume augmentation with hyaluronic acid (HA) filler is the treatment of choice. This area can be effectively treated by most practitioners. Dermal filler to the tear trough and palpebromalar groove needs precise placement, and is technically very challenging. Undercorrection by 20% is recommended, with additional follow-up filler treatments. There are a wide variety of techniques described in the medical literature, but it is my practice to place filler just above the bone.

TM

Sequential Pulsing (MSP) • 2 sized lightguides, changeable

in seconds • For treatment of leg veins and

vascular lesions

After 3 treatments, with 3 weeks between treatments

Baseline

Q-Switched Nd:YAG • Homogenous beam profile for

Q-Switched Nd:YAG Dark Tattoo Removal Courtesy of Michael Oeser, MD

enhanced treatment safety and efficacy • For skin toning, dark tattoos removal, and combination treatments Baseline

www.hitechlasers.co.za E-mail: hitech@hitechlasers.co.za Office: 012 349 1250 Mobile: 071 147 3911 Professional Beauty September 2014

After 5 treatments

medical aesthetics

104

thickness skin burn, which stimulates the epidermal healing response. Although there is less dermal contraction than with other modalities, epidermal regeneration may be associated with improvement of the pigmentation density and lightening of the DC. Clearly only patients with primary pigmentation disorders will be effectively well treated with this modality.

frequency devices, such as PellevĂŠ and Thermage, cause skin-tightening and thickening by generating new collagen as a healing response to injury.

All energy-based devices should be considered an adjunct to treatment for DC, rather than a primary Careful evaluation modality.

Needle-based therapy

of the patient, as as advanced medical imaging technologies, such as the Canfield Vectra, assists the physician in assessing the relative contributions of each factor.

Needle-based therapies use multiple small needle punctures to effect and modify the body’s woundhealing responses to cause collagen deposition and epidermal remodelling in much the same way as energybased devices. Micro-needling involves multiple punctures of the skin to a uniform depth. The deeper the puncture, the greater the effect, but this is at the expense of increased discomfort and downtime.

Carboxy-therapy involves serial punctures with sub-dermal deposition of a tiny bubble of carbon dioxide gas which is purported to modify the immediately adjacent cellular responses before being absorbed and ultimately exhaled. Platelet-rich Plasma (PRP) involves harvest of the patient’s own blood, isolation and concentration of the platelets and their subsequent re-injection. Platelets are the initiators of the wound-healing response and will generate collagen with a lower tissue injury requirement.

Topical treatments High SPF sunblock should be a part of any anti-aging regimen, especially in patients who are prone to UV-induced hyperpigmentation.

Hydroquinone has had some negative

Chemical peels Application of trichloracetic acid (TCA) and lactic acid cause a partial

Professional Beauty September 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

medical aesthetics

105

LightSheer

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Each patient may have several problems that contribute to dark circles.

The most common reason is the presence of a groove under the eyelid which lies in shadow.

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publicity, but short courses (six weeks) of 5-8% hydroquinone (often compounded in 20% kojic acid) are incredibly effective and very reasonably priced.

The effects of hydroquinone-induced lightening are long-lasting and the complication rate very low.

Retinol (and other Vitamin A derivatives) is also useful and may have beneficial effects on fine wrinkles.

Topical caffeine is a part of many over-thecounter creams, but its effect is short-lived and has vasoconstrictor effects.

Anti-oxidants, cytokines, growth factors and herbal extracts have been described as having some beneficial effects on DC.

LightSheer ® DUET™ The “Gold Standard” 805 nm Diode Laser

Dr Marshall Murdoch is a plastic surgeon in private practice at the Donald Gordon Medical Centre and an honorary lecturer in surgery at the University of the Witwatersrand. He is also one of six local country mentors of facial aesthetics for the Allergan Medical Academy.

Professional Beauty September 2014

- Vacuum Assisted High-Speed Integrated Technology (HIT ) - ChillTip Technology

2 Handpieces for treating ALL body areas - HS 22x35 mm - HIT 9x9 mm - ChillTip - ET

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No Anaestetics and Gels Treats skin types 1 - 6

Personal recommendations The following options represent my personal armamentarium for dealing with the problem of DC. Surgically, I prefer transconjunctival lower lid blepharoplasty, with extensive release of the ligaments and fat repositioning.

I only use HA filler as described above and fill the tear trough using a 25G cannula. I use the Pellevé as an adjunct. Only occasionally do I use TCA peels, but I have had good success with 5% hydroquinone in kojic acid.

DCs have multiple causes and a careful evaluation of each patient is necessary before a comprehensive treatment plan is formulated. Patients should appreciate the complexity of this problem and the need for multiple treatments.

In conclusion, it is always preferable to achieve subtle and natural results, and initial undercorrection is a safe option. PB

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www.hitechlasers.co.za E-mail: hitech@hitechlasers.co.za Office: 012 349 1250 Mobile: 071 147 3911

business tips

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In the market

Our round-up of newly launched products, innovations and equipment.

Titania from Coccon Medical (Spain) uses high powered RF technology and is perfect for advanced facial rejuvenation and body shaping treatments. It has been scientifically proven that there is an improvement of at least 20% from the first session. The device has monopolar and multipolar heads of different sizes for facial treatments.

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Acne attack

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RF power

MD Prescriptives Acne Solutions with niacinamide (also known as vitamin B3 or nicotinamide) helps to treat acne by acting as an anti-inflammatory, which reduces redness, irritation and dryness.

Niacinamide supresses the amount of oil / sebum that glands secrete, thereby reducing the formation of blackheads, whiteheads and clogged pores.

082 688 1305

Pro prepping

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The latest treatment trio from Milk Solutions is designed to enhance and improve the results of the professional insalon treatment. Pedicure Prep softens hard skin within 10 minutes and should be applied prior to soaking, filing and exfoliating. The following two products will launch soon.

0861 28 23 23

011 784 0376

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Superhero antioxidant

RVB has launched a 30-day 3-phase antioxidant programme for all skins. The super-strength antioxidant, Astaxantin (550 times more powerful than pure vitamin E) restores and repairs damage caused by free radicals. Biotin (vitamin B7) reactivates the skin’s vital functions and promotes firmness in the skin.

021 701 2900

Professional Beauty September 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

beautymarket57@gmail.com www.bielendaprofessional.pl

Come and see us at stand A26 ® IPL/RF Machine Large touch screen display Easy to operate Advanced cooling system Easy maintenance Applicator spot sizes from 1cm2 to 22cm2 Also effective on light coloured hair

®

Revolution in age-reversal using nanocurrent technology Re-energizes cells in the face and body The feeling of a VIP facial treatment No needles, no pain, no chemicals Immediate results and long lasting effects “I love having A Lift facials, they are great to help prevent the ageing process” Amy Childs

Diamond Elite® Micro Crystal Dermabrasion System

Unique patent pending vacuum delivery system Measures vacuum level to skin, 20 times a second and makes minor adjustments to protect the skin from damage On screen training videos & help User adjustable vacuum and various sized real diamond tips for different treatment options “The next day skin feels softer and looks beautifully pure” DAILY EXPRESS

SONIC MEDICAL SYSTEMS

www.sonicmedical.co.za +27 82 905 3438

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Road to recovery

With a broad spectrum SPF of 50, Dermalogica Skin Recovery cream helps to minimise skin aging. This medium-weight, emollient daily moisturiser is formulated with antioxodant white tea, which is rich in polyphenols to provide photoprotection against UV light and help neutralise free radicals.

011 268 0018

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Unique complex

Elemis Advanced Brightening Even Tone Serum is clinically proven to reduce the appearance of uneven pigmentation in just 28 days. The unique complex of daisy and pea extracts with encapsulated vitamin C helps reduces the appearance of dark spots, age spots and existing imperfections.

021 442 7700

Natural glow

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Skinny Tan is the first self-tanner that combines a natural tanning ingredient and skin smoothing actives to visibly tan, contour and reduce the appearance of cellulite. Straight from the golden beaches of Australia, Skinny Tan is a salonquality self-tanner that leaves users with a natural-looking tan that is lasting and not streaky, smelly or orange.

021 913 3962

Scan savvy r DermaScan is a unique patented medical ultrasound scanning technology that enables a Beauté-Pacifque specialist consultant to analyse your skin and obtain readings on the conditions and construction of your skin down to the deepest layers. The resulting images are then used to analyse the skin structure before and after the application of Beauté Pacifique products.

011 463 9912

Professional Beauty September 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Looking for affordable, cutting edge, spa & salon management software?

User-friendly booking and scheduling management Client history and relationship management Advanced employee scheduling and tracking Comprehensive stock control and supplier history Complete voucher management E-mail and SMS marketing with mail merge Track sales and cash and manage purchasing Real-time reservation and retail ordering engine www.spaguru.co.za

Tel +27 21 840 1860 | Fax +27 21 851 5185 | Email sales@spaguru.co.za

network Benefits

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The leading network for the beauty professional - Free subscription to Professional Beauty Magazine - Fast Access to all Professional Beauty Events - VIP Status to Professional Beauty Expos - 10% discount on all Professional Beauty Network Breakfasts - Plus much more

Visit our website: www.probeauty.co.za and click on the Network link for more info.

A LOOKHERE DESIGN | WWW.LOOKHERE.CO.ZA

• • • • • • • •

saahsp

110 Cidesco Section South Africa

Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta

SAAHSP geared to increase membership Being recognised as a Professional Body by the South African Quality Authority (SAQA) has given SAAHSP the authority to develop, award, monitor and revoke designations.

T

his is a huge step in terms of the organisation being able to help establish a standard of excellence in the industry by means of self-regulation and simultaneously working towards better wages for therapists according to level of qualification.

SAAHSP offers individuals the opportunity to belong to the Professional Body by becoming a member, student member, post graduate member, corporate member or affiliate member.

The organisation strives to

maintain and enhance educational and practicing standards at all levels in the industry in accordance with national and international trends, needs and development. Regional functions, conferences and seminars are held on a regular basis and members of the association receive preferential member rates to attend local and international conferences and seminars.

SAAHSP’s international link to the world of beauty via the association with CIDESCO International as their South African representative Section

also allows local members the opportunity to gain greater exposure to the organisation’s growing network worldwide.

As a Professional Body, SAAHSP also regulates Continual Professional Development (CPD), which is defined as the systematic maintenance, improvement and broadening of skills and the development of personal qualities necessary for the execution of professional and technical duties throughout a person’s career. Along with certain seminars and conferences, SAAHSP health and skincare therapy courses also now carry CPD points.

To become a member visit www. saahsp.co.za or contact 011 675 6518 or email rossetta@saahsp.co.za.

Marking Mandela Day For the past five years on Mandela Day (18 July) - held in honour of the extraordinary life and legacy of the late Nelson Mandela - all the staff at the Mask Skin and Body Clinic in Parkview, Johannesburg organise a sing-along outside Weber House, situated in Ennis Road.

The staff ask for donations of tins of ‘something to eat’ and ‘something to keep warm’, such as blankets.

They sing the South African national anthem, Nkosi Sikele, along with the community.

Camelot students on TV Two students from the Cape Town branch of Camelot were invited to appear on Hectic Nine 9 (HN9), SABC2’s flagship daily youth programme, on 11 August.

Theresa Horn (24) and Megan Reynolds (20) were selected by Camelot as they are top academic and practical students in their

second year of studying for a Diploma in Health and Skincare.

Says Camelot’s Audrey Coetzee: “Despite their nerves, Theresa and Megan behaved like absolute naturals behind the camera. Having watched the show live I can honestly say I am so proud of them both. They represented Camelot very well.”

Professional Beauty September 2014

Supporting female power International Academy students and staff are working to raise awareness and reduce the stigma of breast cancer by applying lipstick one day a month and posting the photos on Facebook.

Second year students have pampered ladies for Woman’s Day, while other students have treated women working in a call centre, in Parliament, and at the Table Bay Hotel.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Special offer on multiple bookings - Contact Knowledge Tenza Tel: 011 781 5970 • Fax: 011 781 6079 • Email: knowledge@probeauty.co.za

face to face beauty & make-up design school HEAD OFFICE www.facetoface.co.za • info@facetoface.co.za 011726 8144 / 8166 / 2644 Facebook @ FACETOFACESAHEADOFFICEOFFICIALPAGE Twitter @ FacetoFace_SA

Full Time and Part Time Courses COURSES: Nationally and internationally part and full accredited courses in Beauty, Make-up and Special Effects. Services Seta (3725), ITEC, City & Guilds and CIDESCO

Join the growing Nails & Lashes market!!

Monthly Short Courses & Supplies

031 564 2933 info@thenailguru.co.za 27e54fe4 The Nail Guru www.thenailguru.co.za

Become an Internationally Certified Image Consultant

SELL YOUR

spa, salon, services, products, education & business opportunities in Professional Beauty Call KNOWLEDGE on 011 781 5970

Join the experts to train you in the fastest growing industry in the world.

Come to the sea -

Free accommodation and airport transfers.

CONTACT: admin@imageconsultant.co.za Office Land Line: 032 586 0286 www.imageconsultant.co.za

BEAUTY ONLINE:

online at www.probeauty.co.za

VISIT: www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty September 2014

MATSIMELA HOME SPA BRINGS YOU THE FINEST PRODUCTS THAT ARE A FEAST FOR THE SENSES!

www.matsimela.co.za

HOT HAIR PIECES® MANUFACTURERS OF ALL TYPES OF HAIR BRAIDS & HAIR EXTENSIONS TEL: 031 465 2128 CELL: 084 588 8880 • www.hothairpieces.com

Sunbed Spares & Services Sole Importer of

and

Sunbeds

Repairs to all makes of sunbeds SupplierS of: CAlTAN Tanning lotions

Tel: 083 321 9038

Hot Hair Pieces has been supplying the hair industry for the past 8 years with a variety of Hair braids and Hair Extensions including: • 100% PREBONDED REMY HAIR • HUMAN HAIR WEAVES • SYNTHETIC HAIR WEAVES • BULKS • CLIP IN HAIR EXTENSIONS • SOFT DREDS • HUMAN HAIR OPRAH CURL • BUNS and so much more.

Hot Hair Pieces is your hair salons best kept secret. We have more than 21 years of experience in the making of hair extensions.

We supply country wide and export as well. Contact us for your next order. We look forward to hearing from you soon.

For sale Ecleris Spider Vein removal machine Price: R86 000.00 (8 months old)

Contact: 012 998 4367 / kohler@netactive.co.za

To advertise your PRODUCTS, SERVICES AND SUPPLIES in this space, call Knowledge on 011 781 5970

EQUIPMENT STOCK CLEARANCE SALE RENT TO BUY or ONCE OFF PURCHASE LPG® Endermologie™ Energist Hair Removal and Pollogen® RF From R85 000.00 including Vat Systems fully serviced Sold with a warranty Terms and Conditions Apply Contact – Colin – 082 880 5920

Professional Beauty September 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za