Pro Beauty Oct- Nov 2015

Oct/Nov 2015

www.probeauty.co.za

Accurate analytics

Spa revenue management

Fulfilling treatments Mid-face rejuvenation

Ad-sense

What makes a good advert?

Honours Roll Professional Beauty Awards – the winners

leaps&bounds Technological advances in skincare

30

66

41

In this issue...

Regulars

Spa Focus

Features

5 Industry news

26 Singular spa experiences

33 Treatment reviews

Local and international news

57 Hair News

What’s hot and happening in the hair industry

A tour through unusual treatments

Salon Focus

64 Product news

30 Changes at RUB

All the latest launches

68 SAAHSP

The latest news from SAAHSP

Business 13 Insider Salon/Insider Spa

Tracking the industry with stats

15 Ask the Experts

All your questions answered

17 The beauty of good advertising

How to grab your target market’s attention

19 Women, entrepreneurs and beauty

Bryanston salon adds nail area and cosmeceutical brand

Medical Aesthetics 65 Mid-facial rejuvenation

Treatment options

Nails 61 Nailing social media marketing

Interactive interactions

Rejuvenating facials

36 Industry professionals convene at PCASA Conference

News from the Permanent Cosmetics Association of South Africa

37 Making your mark

Permanent make-up in the spotlight

41 We are the champions!

Winners of the Professional Beauty Awards

47 A win-win situation

Winners of the Industry Awards

51 All made up

Focus on professional make-up

53 An ‘active’ science

Technological advances in skincare

58 Feast for the eyes

Eye care – a delicate approach

Being your own boss

20 The art of client retention

How to keep clients returning to your door

22 Building brand identity

The brand missionary

24 Data-driven tactics and strategy in the spa

Revenue management

online at www.probeauty.co.za

53 Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

Welcome

T

he two biggest events on the South African beauty calendar took place at the end of August – the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo at Gallagher Convention Centre and our Gala Awards Dinner, a glitzy and glamorous event that raised the roof at Room 5 in Rivonia.

In this issue we pay tribute to the winners of the Professional Beauty Awards & Industry Awards and reveal the secrets to their success. This provides invaluable tips for all those spas, salons, therapists, suppliers and sales reps out there that are looking for winning formulas.

Those who attended the International Spa Convention, which ran alongside Professional Beauty Johannesburg, might have attended the revenue management session presented by Jeff Butterworth, of Lux Islands Resorts. Butterworth made the point that, because revenue management, which is applied a lot in the hotel industry, is a very analytical process, it is not very appealing to spa owners, to their detriment. He provided valuable tips in terms of rebooking, a flexible attitude towards pricing and packages, upselling and the importance of analysing where your spa makes money.

A growing sector of the beauty market is that of permanent make-up. An increasing number of salons now offer such services.

This issue includes a focus on the latest trends in permanent make-up, as well as a report back from the annual conference of industry body, PCASA. Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

Subscribe 9 issues for R475 (RSA) To receive your copy of Professional Beauty call 011 781 5970

Publisher Mark Moloney

011 781 5970

Managing Director Yolanda Knott

083 654 9098 yolanda@probeauty.co.za

mark@probeauty.co.za

Commercial Director Philip Woods 011 781 5970

phil@probeauty.co.za

Editor Joanna Sterkowicz

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Art Director Ursula Wong

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Sales Manager Alexandra Norvall

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Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970 | Fax: 011 781 6079 The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/ or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher.

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barbara@probeauty.co.za

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Social Media Administrator Penelope Mtshali 011 781 5970

social@tetradeevents.com

Printers ABC Press

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

021 5343210

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HEIBIX STUDY GUIDES COMPILED BY EXPERTS WITH EXPERIENCE IN EDUCATION For the foundational subjects required to achieve the unit standards of the NQF Level 5 Diploma in Health and Skincare and Therapeutic Complementary Therapies.

Worksheets and self-evaluation question papers are included.

ANATOMY & PHYSIOLOGY WORKBOOK

DERMATOLOGY Unlocking the gate to successful & accurate skin analysis

APPLIED PHYSICS The physics behind the machines

HYGIENE & STERILIZATION

BASIC CHEMISTRY Made easy

BODYSHAPE AND EXERCISE Body analysis and correction

COSMETIC SCIENCE The foundation to a successful career in Somatology

AROMATHERAPY PRACTICE For wellness and spas

NUTRITION Understanding healthy lifestyles

THE CHEMISTRY OF ESSENTIAL OILS Blending skills

BUSINESS SKILLS AND ACCOUNTANCY

BUSINESS SKILLS AND ACCOUNTING FOR HAIRDRESSERS 2013 Edition

To ensure a thriving business

HEIBIX MODULAR STUDIES EACH MANUAL A COMPLETE TRAINING UNIT CONTENT BASED ON INTERNATIONAL AND NATIONAL SYLLABI

MANICURE SPECIALIST

SKINCARE SPECIALIST

MAKE-UP SPECIALIST

WE CATER FOR THE ULTIMATE LEARNING EXPERIENCE © HEIBIX cc P.O. Box 2218, Dennesig, 7601, Phone: 021 883 3803, Fax: 021 886 7472, E-mail: heibix@polka.co.za

business tips

5

News All the news and views from the world of beauty and spa.

Big attendance for Professional Beauty JHB Over 18 000 people attended the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo, which took place on August 30 and 31 at Gallagher Convention Centre in Midrand.

“A

s always, Professional Beauty proved to be a great success. Our exhibitors had a great show, with good business reported from all stands.

Our visitors left the event happy, more knowledgeable and informed,” said Professional Beauty commercial director, Phil Woods.

The expo incorporated a number of exciting events, such as the ‘Educationail’ Workshop, the Nail & Make Up Competitions, the F.A.M.E Team from London, the EOHCB Hair Competition, the International Spa Convention and the Medical Aesthetics Convention.

Marisa Dimitriadis, director of the International Spa Convention, said that keynote speaker Jeff Butterworth, the chief spa and wellness officer for LUX Island resorts, was highly rated by delegates.

“Other popular sessions were Jade Fuhr’s presentation on finding your brand voice, Michelle Arde’s section on staff and Karen Spruijt’s talk on technology,” noted Dimitriadis.

The Medical Aesthetics Convention was well received by delegates who attended this year’s event, according to conference director Karen Ellithorne.

“Dr Melanie Lambrechts’ micro-

needling lecture and Dr Judey Pretorius’ cosmeceutical ingredient analysis lectures were some of the highlights of the first day. Dr Johan Botha’s demo on PDO tightening sutures, combined with the Ceccarelli solution, was viewed with much interest by the delegates.

“The second day kicked off with Dr Cobus van Niekerk’s lecture on how to select the correct filler for your practice, and finished off with qualified attorney Ulundi Berhtel clarifying how to set up an aesthetic practice in order for all parties to be adequately protected from litigation,” comments Ellithorne.

PCG launches Professional Division News in pictures The Prestige Cosmetics Group (PCG) has launched a new Professional Division, following the acquisition of its first nail brand, OPI. Says PCG CEO Maria Lambros: “The luxury British spa brand Elemis has been part of the PCG stable for the past six years. With the recent acquisition of

Cape Town team: Sasha-Lee Venter, Colleen Walsh, Celest Els, Samantha Van Hasselt

Johannesburg team: Lauren Nielsen, Chantelle Parsons, Andrew Boberg, Heloise Janse Van Rensburg, Jodie Forsyth

online at www.probeauty.co.za

OPI, we have decided to separate these businesses from our other retail brands, as OPI and Elemis have different focuses and end-users.”

Diana van Sittert, Grant Joubert and Sonette Donker

Dermalogica’s Diana van Sittert, Adv. Grant Joubert (SEESA) and Sonette Donker of Skin iD were the speakers at the Professional Beauty Network Breakfast held on 31 August in Johannesburg. Topics under discussion were labour law, spreadsheet analysis and the customer of today.

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

industry news

6 News in brief ■ Skincare market set for huge growth: The global professional skincare market will be worth $13.4bn by 2019, growing at an average of 5.82% per year, according to new figures published by analyst Technavio.

Spas and salons accounted for 62% of sales of professional skincare products worldwide in 2014.

Fabian Franz and Renate Klass of FutureThis

Team Dr. Joseph comes to SA Italian certified organic skincare brand, Team Dr. Joseph, is now available in South Africa for the first time through Johannesburg-based company FutureThis.

T

eam Dr. Joseph was introduced to the local market at the recent Professional Beauty Johannesburg Show.

Product manager Fabian Franz revealed that the company was founded 30 years ago by his father, Dr Joseph Franz.

“My father created the company because he had had an ice hockey accident, and looked to plants to find a natural cure. He found a plant with active ingredients that helped to heal his injured knee, so he continued

researching plants to see their beneficial effects on the skin.

“At that time the world was not ready for organic products but in the last few years the organic market has shifted to the mass market.

International organic certification bodies like ICEA and BDIH all tell you what to leave out of your products to make them certified organic, but not what to put into them.

“The Team Dr. Joseph range has created a whole new category of skincare, what we term ‘High Tech Natural Skincare’. Our products have the texture of a cosmetic – they are super-skin friendly and employ micro-technology for deep penetration into the skin,” said Franz.

He explained that the company’s philosophy is holistic, and that it has its own herbarium with 300 different herbs and plants in Bruneck, Northern Italy.

■ Spa de la Veille closes Sandton branch: As part of a strategic relocation plan to assist in providing current clients with even better facilities and greater service, Spa de la Veille has closed its branch in Sandton, within the Marion on Nicol. Its flagship branch in Centurion remains intact.

■ L’Oréal aims to become carbonbalanced: Beauty giant L’Oréal, which owns professional brands including Decléor and Essie, has announced its commitment to become carbon-balanced by 2020.

■ QMS Medicosmetics honoured: German skincare brand QMS Medicosmetics was judged to be the World’s Best Spa Brand at the recent World Travel Awards’ World Spa Awards.

■ Strobing and ‘selfies’ drive make-up sales: Global information company, NPD Group, reports that the key influencers driving the global prestige make-up market are the strobing technique (using highlighting products to illuminate the face) and ‘selfies’.

Changes at PMU Technology The company previously known as PMU Technology has changed its name to Sulé Loggenberg MMPSI Academy and Clinic and has moved to Sasolburg.

Loggenberg recently launched a new business venture, PMU Supplies, an online store specifically formulated for the permanent make-up industry.

■ Steiner Leisure acquired by Catterton: Owner of spa skincare brand Elemis, Steiner Leisure, is to be acquired by private equity firm Catterton for $925 million, in a deal which will see the company taken private.

Sulé Loggenberg

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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industry news

9

Professional Beauty UK on acquisition path The owners of Professional Beauty have signed a deal to acquire Salon International, Hairdressers Journal International and the British Hairdressing Awards from Reed Business Information.

S

Mark Moloney

alon International is the largest UK exhibition for the professional hairdressing industry.

Hairdressers Journal International is the market-leading trade magazine, with a 133-year heritage. The brand has run the prestigious British Hairdressing Awards since 1984.

The deal, which is due to be completed next month, will see the hairdressing magazine and events team relocate to Professional Beauty’s head office.

Professional Beauty managing director Mark Moloney said: “It’s a genuine coup for Professional Beauty to have the Hairdressers Journal team joining us at our offices in West

News in pictures

Radiant Healthcare held a body contouring workshop in midSeptember at Oakfield Farm, just outside of Johannesburg.

Pictured are Jacques Pretorius, Danelle Landman, Dr Patrick Treacy, Melissa Eksteen, Alastair Sawyer and Jayde Wilson. Dr Treacy, who hails from Ireland, presented a paper on Syneron’s VelaShape III.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

London. To have the hair and beauty industry’s leading magazine and expo brands under one roof will enable us to better assist both professions in their development.” Moloney said he hoped the expertise of the Hairdressers Journal team would help to attract more hair salons into the beauty profession, adding, “Since its inception, Professional Beauty has tried to focus on the needs of the professional treatments industry, particularly encouraging greater business professionalism among salon owners. This philosophy remains the core of our business as we look to expand both the beauty and hair sectors in the UK and overseas.”

SA brand launches in Mauritius Thirty-five salons across Mauritius have been trained and certified as official stockists of South African eye-care brand eyeSlices.

Says eyeSlices’ chief excitement officer Kerryne K r a u s e - N e u f e l d t : Kerryne Krause-Neufeldt “We’ve worked hard to establish huge success in the Maldives within the spa industry and are looking to replicate that success in Mauritius,” she explains. “Our synergies are aligned with the salons we have selected.”

Neufeldt notes that eyeSlices treatment pads represent a global first in cryogel technology, a dermal delivery system that slowly releases active ingredients and moisture into the skin.

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

industry news

10

First Alma Beauty Remove system in SA

Cindy Moodley

Best Lasers has sold the first Alma Beauty Remove hair removal system in South Africa, to Heavenly Therapies in Weltevreden Park, Roodepoort.

“T

his is also the first Alma Beauty Remove to have been sold in the whole of Africa,” says Best Lasers sales executive, Nicola Steenkamp. “The system was only launched at the end of August so this sale is really significant for Best Lasers.

“With its 810 nm ‘gold standard’ diode laser, Remove is the world’s

best-selling laser hair removal technology and is found in over 3,500 clinics worldwide.”

Cindy Moodley of Heavenly

Dr Gobac now distributed in-house Locally developed and manufactured skincare brand, Dr Gobac Cosmeceuticals, has taken its distribution in-house so as to streamline its service to existing and potential clients.

“We have really grown the brand in terms of footprint, as well as increasing public awareness and developing new products to support and enhance our existing offering,” says the company’s founder and medical practitioner, Dr Robert Gobac. “Our stockists are the pillars that support our brand’s growth. They are therefore exceptionally important to us and we want to provide them with the best service, not only in terms of product development but also ontime delivery, support and added assistance to ensure

Therapies adds: “The Alma Beauty Remove is the new love of my life.

Choosing it was the best decision I’ve ever made.”

EDM eyelash extension graduates

Dr Robert Gobac

the improved success of their businesses.

“In a similar vein to quality manufacturing practices that have been implemented at the manufacturing plant in South Africa, along with the quality of ingredients sourced from all over the world and the high percentage of actives we use in our products, our distribution needs to be on par, making us a notable contender in this market,” concludes Dr Gobac.

Fourteen students graduated in eyelash extension treatments at the EDM Nails and Lashes Skills Academy in Pretoria on 28 August.

The graduates are now internationally qualified to do eyelash extension treatments.

Says EDM’s Elma Schalkwyk: “Our courses in eyelash extensions are internationally accredited with the awarding organisation, VTCT UK. Their international business development manager, Runa McNamara, and her colleague were on hand at the graduation ceremony to hand out the certificates.”

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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business trends

13

Insider

Insider, our exclusive business round-up, polled salons and spas in Johannesburg, Pretoria, Durban, Cape Town, East London and Port Elizabeth to track business in September 2015.

The month in numbers Insider Spa

AVERAGE Most spas (71%) reported an TREATMENT increase in treatment business ROOM OCCUPANCY in September 2015 as compared to the same time last year, with one spa having literally doubled business as compared to the same time last year. Reasons cited for this amazing increase were a focus on upselling, watching revenue very closely, analysing how the spa books clients and looking at all KPIs (Key Performance Indicators).

The average treatment room occupancy varies quite a bit between spas, with one reporting 43% and another at 85%. The salon manager attributed this high occupancy to the fact that the spa has more therapists than rooms.

Only 50% of spas reported an increase in retail business as compared to September 2014. However, one spa reported a significant rise in sales, due to an increased staff complement, many of whom are good retailers. The most popular retail items at spas during September varied quite a lot between spas and ranged from moisturiser to body balm, to 24-hour cream, to serum, to cleansing balm, to detoxifying supplement, to body scrub.

We asked spas if they ever ask clients for testimonials for social media purposes and all respondents said no – rather they encourage clients to complete feedback cards.

59

75 % BETTER 0

% SAME

%

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN SEPTEMBER 2015 COMPARE WITH SEPTEMBER 2014?

25

% WORSE

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN SEPTEMBER 2015 COMPARE WITH SEPTEMBER 2014?

online at www.probeauty.co.za

50

% BETTER

1

% SAME

49

% WORSE

Insider Salon

For the month of September, 25% of you reported that treatment business was up; one spa said this was due to better advertising. Forty-two-percent said business was down as a result of an increase in pricing. Thirty-threepercent of you said business was the same.

It seems financial constraints had an impact on retail business during September as only 8% of you reported that business was up. Some of you have attributed this to new products and treatments being introduced into your salon.

Seventy-five-percent said business was down, while 17% said business was AVERAGE the same.

TREATMENT We asked if you ask clients ROOM for testimonials, 58% said yes OCCUPANCY and 42% said no. Some of you reported that your clients post their testimonials on your social media pages.

As to the most popular retail item in September, 33% of you said cleansers, 50% of you mentioned a particular product range (as opposed to a single product), while 17% said that product and brand popularity varied throughout the month.

55%

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN SEPTEMBER 2015 COMPARE WITH SEPTEMBER 2014?

25

% BETTER

33

% SAME

42

% WORSE

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN SEPTEMBER 2015 COMPARE WITH SEPTEMBER 2014?

8

% BETTER

17

% SAME

75

% WORSE

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

business

14

25 years and counting …

On 12 December this year, South African skincare empire Environ will celebrate its 25th anniversary. Joanna Sterkowicz reflects on the significance of the company reaching this milestone, its history and what the future holds.

The first-ever Environ product to be launched on the market was an unadorned white tube of Vitamin A cream. Over the years, this has been enhanced by introducing different levels of Vitamin A, adding antioxidants and peptides, and by keeping abreast of the latest technology in the fields of ingredients and skincare.

“The basic premise of Environ remains the same – all skins need Vitamin A,” states Carstens.

Ambassadors Now

Then

I

“Today, we have brand fans across the world loving the results they experience.” - Val Carstens

t’s not an exaggeration to say that the now ubiquitous Environ brand had humble beginnings – in a kitchen in fact.

Noted plastic and reconstructive surgeon, Dr Des Fernandes (known as ‘Dr Des’ in the beauty industry) started making skin creams in his kitchen, motivated by the need created from treating two young patients suffering from terminal melanoma.

“Dr Des was never driven by the thought of building an empire,” explains his sister and Environ CEO, Val Carstens. “His concern for his patients drove him to research skincare and so brought him to understand the vital role Vitamin A plays in skin health.”

When Carstens joined the family business she was driven by her belief in the products Fernandez had created.

“Even today, the global success of this business is underpinned by on-going care and concern for healthy skin,” she says. “Environ’s success is attributed to the fact that Dr Des has continued to research the effects of different ingredients and treatments on the skin. He has always tested Environ products on himself before anyone else. This has fuelled a passion, belief and trust in the products across the company and consumers alike. Today, we have brand fans across the world loving the results they experience.”

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

She stresses that Dr Des was the first – and is still the most powerful – Environ brand ambassador.

“Dr Des continually researches, treats with and recommends Environ.

He travels extensively, sharing his knowledge with great generosity.

“As to our other ambassadors, they may be celebrities, but they were Environ fans and users for years before we introduced an Ambassador Programme,” comments Carstens.

Celebrations She goes on to say that Environ will be celebrating its 25th anniversary and ‘amazing South African success story’ in style. “We will put the focus of these celebrations on acknowledging those who have been part of the journey over the years.”

Carstens notes that the company’s future will be a continued journey of Environ’s reason for being. “This is to continue to offer the best skincare, latest ingredients at optimal levels and to continue to create beautiful skins for life.”

Recent developments at Environ include the internalisation of its South African distribution, the launch of two revolutionary skincare products (Intensive Revival Masque and Avance) and the introduction of a therapist incentive scheme. PB

online at www.probeauty.co.za

business tips

15

Ask the experts Our beauty experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.

What are the benefits of exhibiting at big overseas shows like Professional Beauty London and what sort of support does the Department of Trade & Industry offer?

As a salon owner, how long do I have to maximise the shelf life of a new treatment, product or service?

F

inding the next big thing is a quest that should drive any entrepreneur. The normal life cycle of product growth and decline involves: Growth – in demand and fulfilling a market need; Maturity – sales level off, or competition in the marketplace leads to a reduction in price; Saturation – where competition is extensive, prices tail off and profit reduces; Decline – lack of demand, decline may occur naturally; Replace – find something new.

With anything marketable, the cycle of growth and decline is pretty guaranteed. Things peak then trough. Once the market is saturated the product becomes less desirable, so the salon owner has to find the next big thing.

Bringing in the new, even if it’s a reinvention of something that’s gone previously, is key. Businesses that don’t recognise that ultimately fail. Our clients are better educated than ever before; they are more knowledgeable and more aware of developments in skin, hair and nail care. Being behind the trends has never been less of an option.

Hellen Ward is MD of Richard Ward Hair and Metrospa in London’s Sloane Square.

T

rade shows deliver qualified buyers with real purchasing power and people that often cannot be reached by sales representatives/ agents in the field. In addition they assist you to validate purchasing decisions by meeting your customers and confirming with a handshake.

You will also have the opportunity to present live demonstrations to attract show visitors.

Furthermore trade shows allow you to stay abreast of the industry’s needs and compliance going forward.

The Cosmetic Export Council of South Africa (CECOSA) encourages its members to start with shows in the EU, because it is South Africa’s natural trading partner.

As a South African manufacturer/service provider, the Department of Trade and Industry’s (the dti) Export Marketing and Investment Assistance Scheme (EMIA) partially compensates exporting South African registered companies, for costs incurred in respect of activities aimed at developing export markets internationally for South African products & services and to recruit new foreign direct investment into South Africa.

Adele Visser, the council manager, has worked closely with the dti for 14 years, and has assisted companies in both in the electrotechnical and cosmetic sectors, to understand and apply for dti EMIA funding.

E-mail adele@cecosa.co.za

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to joanna@probeauty.co.za

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

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business tips

17

The beauty of

good advertising They say that beauty is in the eye of the beholder. But when your business is all about beauty, how do you make sure that your salon or spa is the one that catches the most eyes? FCB Joburg senior copywriter, Jessica Everson, provides the answer.

L

et’s start with the obvious: if you want people to know that you exist, you have to tell them that you exist.

You have to advertise.

But telling someone to advertise is like telling someone to use makeup. It sounds simple enough at first but then the questions start: Which products do I use? Where do I apply it? How much do I need to apply?

And much like advertising, there are no simple answers to these questions. It all depends on who you are and what you’re looking for.

So step one is to decide who you are, or what your brand personality is. This is the ‘face’ that you’ll be putting out to potential customers.

And as we all know, first impressions count. Your font choice, colour palette, pictures and the wording you use will all affect how customers feel about you and your brand. For example, clean images, minimal copy (the words you use), classic fonts and muted colours say ‘sophisticated and relaxed’, whereas bright colours, more vibrant pictures and bolder fonts say ‘trendy, modern and fun’.

The next step is figuring out who your customer is. An ad will only be successful if it’s reaching the right people. So before you spend money

online at www.probeauty.co.za

On average, you only have 6.5 seconds to grab someone’s attention so make sure people can look at your advert and know immediately who you are and what you’re offering. on advertising in a publication, ask them about their readership (the gender, age and income of the average reader), reach (how many people read it) and placement (where your ad will feature, i.e. the wellness section or the sports section?). Including a ‘call to action’ (a phone number or web address) will also help you monitor the response to your ad so that you can continue or change your strategy accordingly.

The last step isn’t so much a step

A golden rule:

less is more

but a golden rule: less is more. Too much copy, too many pictures and too many fonts are just that – too much. Decide on your key message (a special offer, an experience, a technique, a price point) and then work around that.

On average, you only have 6.5 seconds to grab someone’s attention so make sure people can look at your advert and know immediately who you are and what you’re offering. If they have to try too hard to figure it out, they’ll move on to the next advert and you’ll lose a potential customer.

At the end of the day, the most important thing to remember is that you’re selling beauty and relaxation so your advert needs to be just that: beautiful and relaxing. PB

Jessica Everson is an award-winning writer who has been in the industry for six years. She is a senior copywriter at FCB Joburg, a member of the FCB South Africa group, one of the country’s largest and most creative agencies.

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

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business tips

19

Women, entrepreneurs

and beauty

Unlike any other business, the beauty business is largely made up of women. This makes perfect sense – women bring their passion, knowledge and experience to the table, writes Debbie Merdjan.

W

orldwide, women make up about half the population, and yet the road to success for a woman is much harder than that of a man. Women in general have to work much harder than men while their salaries are lower. It’s harder for women to break into business and to be taken seriously.

It shouldn’t be, but it is.

That is why the idea of being ‘your own boss’ is hugely appealing. This is where entrepreneurship comes in.

Starting a business as a woman, especially in South Africa, is a dream come true. It takes courage though.

Business owners will tell you that a new venture comes with challenges and triumphs.

Of course there are challenges.

When you are an employee you have the safety of structure and a monthly salary. So, taking the plunge into the unknown is scary.

You have to say goodbye to the 9 to 5 job and say hello to working 24/7. You have to continuously work, strategise and think ahead.

Wisdom

You have a fabulous job to do. Do it for the women!

It is really important to draw on the wisdom of others, to ask for help and to surround yourself by the right people. You need to learn, study and understand your industry like no-one else.

In the beginning you may overspend, make rash hiring decisions or use the wrong suppliers. You will spend hours figuring out how to do things. You’ll learn quickly though, through sheer hard work. You’ll become a female entrepreneur!

The rewards are huge. Your success will allow flexibility.

With success comes recognition, both internally and externally. You’ll gain the respect and recognition of your peers and from your community.

And you’ll find yourself being more creative and making the right choices, as in great staff, clever marketing and the right location. In other words, people who have the same values as you. Building relationships and networking. You need to be financially savvy, or employ someone who is.

Understand not just beauty but the business behind it.

Objectives Your objectives should be SMART (Specific Measurable Achievable Realistic Timely). These concrete short- and long-term goals determine the direction that you will take and where your business will be in six months, a year from now, and in two years from now. Remember though, as the space outside your company continues to change, your goals and objectives need to adapt.

The days of the beauty industry being fluffy and unfeminist are long over. We find that the most dynamic of women, the top female business-leaders, the academics, the stay-at-home moms, the shop-owners, all women, are interested in the beauty business.

You have a fabulous job to do. Do it for the women! PB Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the Camelot Group.

She has been in the industry since 1982 and started Camelot International Health & Skin Care Education in 1987, and opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

business tips

20

The art of client retention Ayesha Rajah, owner of the Urban Bliss Wellness Spa in Emmarentia, Johannesburg, provides some valuable tips on how to ensure that clients keep returning to your door.

I

always find that there is a fine balance between Client Retention vs Client Acquisition. It is great when all your marketing efforts pay off and you get new feet through the door, but how do you keep them coming back?

You would agree that ‘wowing’ first-time clients and getting a return on your investment is important, but have you thought about how much effort you are placing on existing clients? In fact, the amount of money you make on first-time clients is, on average, 20% of your total income.

That means 80% of your business comes from repeat clients.

There are two elements that maintain repeat business: service and communication. Ensuring your team’s buy-in is essential to keep clients coming back; here are a few guidelines to take them through:

Client retention plan 1. Service, service, service. Set aside time on quiet days and have your therapists work on each other to ensure that standards, quality and protocols are adhered to. Enhance your client’s experience before the client arrives by having your front desk ask (especially new clients) about their preferred room temperature, music preference, the adjustment of the head rest and needs for her massage.

2. Update details. Have the above information stored on the client’s consultation forms so that any of your staff members can refer to

it before a treatment. Your client will feel that special attention has been placed on her needs, which is the start of building a good relationship.

3. Immediate rebooking. Give the client a reason to come back before they leave. Train your therapists to recommend a follow-on treatment or a course of treatments e.g. ‘You will require a further two massages to assist with the muscle tension’.

Writing out a treatment programme and handing it to clients at the front desk will assist with rebooking as well. The most straightforward way to encourage repeat business is to suggest a follow-up appointment before they leave.

4. Maintain relationships.

A relationship with a client is what ultimately keeps them coming back to you. So follow up with thank you e-mails and phone calls to get feedback on service or products to ensure that you stay in touch with your client. Send

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

subtle e-mails to remind clients of the benefits of massage, or tips on double cleansing, for example.

This gives clients a reason to call back.

5. Ease in change. As we all know, clients tend to leave a salon or spa when a therapist leaves with whom they have built up a relationship. This dynamic can be minimised by having the clients get comfortable with another therapist. Have another therapist usher the client into a room, or give a complimentary hand or foot massage.

Implement a client retention policy today and you will not only maintain business growth, but greatly improve it. PB Ayesha Rajah, MD of A&I Importers and owner of Urban Bliss Wellness Spa, has been involved in the spa and skincare industry for more than 20 years. Rajah also facilitates training for Phytomer, Priori and Skin Doctors.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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business tips

22

Building brand identity Who are you as a brand, and are you relying on other brands to create your brand, asks Lauren Gibson.

O

ur professional industry is evolving.

In fact, it is meta-morphing at a rapid rate. With new creams, lotions and technology launched every week, how do you know which brands to partner with to highlight your brand or what you stand for?

Many beauty professionals might not know what defines a brand. Well, a brand is anything – a symbol, design, name, sound, reputation, emotion, employees, tone and much more. And this is what separates you from anyone else in the market.

A lot of people rely on product brands to grow their own brand, but you know your own brand the best and what you want in your business. Thus you need to be the brand missionary and ensure you hire or rely on others who believe in your dream. Your brand needs to speak volumes to consumers. Your brand needs to stand out.

So you need to ensure the people in your business, or the other brands you leverage, are alight with fire and passion to enhance your brand.

Some tips on how to be your own brand

Create your brand persona Who or what is your brand? What does it look like? Does it have a personality?

The why of what you are doing needs to come through in your brand and how others see it, so why not use a brand language? Words are powerful as they can limit you or set you up for success.

Find a mentor Look up to someone who is an expert in your field and lean on them for support, guidance and to act as a sounding board.

Build relationships to get to milestones Ensure you build relationships with experts in the industry, beauty bloggers or beauty editors and become the ‘go to’ person in that field.

Align yourself with a brand ambassador to showcase your brand and vision and add a stamp of approval.

You need to be the brand missionary and ensure you hire or rely on others who believe in your dream.

Don’t copy – leverage One of the biggest mistakes I see businesses making is that they rely on other people or brands to grow their business. Hard work allows brands and businesses to grow. Don’t copy another brand and expect the same results, as you don’t know what has gone into building that particular brand.

Instead, why not leverage a powerful brand to highlight your own brand? Use their team’s knowledge and skill, lean on them for support and advice and learn from their best practices.

You are a brand. And I believe you can be a successful one. Remove the ceiling and reach for the sky. PB

Lauren Gibson has been with Dermalogica for just over three years, where she has been a senior instructor and a business consultant in KwaZulu-Natal (KZN). She recently joined the Cape Town team as the regional manager.

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za

business tips

24

Data-driven tactics and strategy in the spa

Revenue management can be applied to any business with perishable inventory but is a complex science, as Joanna Sterkowicz discovered at the recent International Spa Convention in Midrand.

M

aximising revenue at spas was one of the topics covered by keynote speaker Jeff Butterworth at the International Spa Convention, which ran alongside the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Show at the Gallagher Convention Centre at the end of August.

As chief spa and wellness officer for LUX Island resorts, Butterworth stressed that he was speaking from a resort-based perspective but that the principles of revenue management also apply to day spas.

“Revenue management is applied a

lot in the hotel industry but, because it is a very analytical process, it doesn’t appeal to spa owners,” said Butterworth. “It requires disciplined analytics; spa managers need to analyse factors such as the right product, customer, time and channel, as well as variable costs and fixed costs.”

He noted that there are five pricing expectations for spas: • High price, high demand (usually in high season and over weekends) • High price, low demand • Variable pricing, high demand • Low price, high demand • Low price, low demand

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

Jeff Butterworth

Costs Butterworth advised that spa managers should regard treatment blocks as ice blocks that melt. “See your treatment diary as a delicate thing. It doesn’t cost a lot to do a treatment – it has low variable costs (products and consumables) versus high fixed costs (therapists’ salaries,

online at www.probeauty.co.za

business tips

25 Revenue management tips 1. Rebooking (build up your base) 2. Flexible time-based pricing (time of day, day of week and seasonality) 3. Affordable, low-price packages in low season 4. Shorter, high-price treatments in high demand time 5. Upselling (‘Would you like fries with that?’)

6. Understand where you make your money (massage, product sales or facials). rent, water and electricity, etc). You need to calculate the variable cost per hour-long treatment, as well as your fixed costs per hour, to come up with your total cost per hour, which you can then divide by the number of treatments performed in a given time period.

“Remember that pricing doesn’t have to be fixed so adopt a flexible policy. See what treatments make you the most money. I suggest that you have seasonal prices and day of the week prices. Be flexible with your pricing. Talk to customers to ask what they are willing to pay for at what times, on which days and in which seasons.”

Butterworth stressed that higher time demand equals higher price. “I think you should sell longer lower-price packages in low demand times and sell shorter, high-price treatments in high demand times.

Determine your peak times, days and seasons.

“Upselling is an important factor in revenue management. I always employ the ‘Would you like fries with that?’ strategy. In other words, whenever a person books an appointment, the receptionist must be trained to ask if the client would like another treatment as well, such as a reflexology massage, for example.”

Forecasting In terms of forecasting, spa managers should look backwards before they look forward, according to Butterworth.

“Forecasting is the major tool used in revenue management,” he continued. “So, how does one forecast? It is possible to use a budget as a forecast but I don’t think it’s a good idea. Rather look at factors such as occupancy, average spend per guest and capture ratio.

“Other variables to consider when forecasting are ‘groups’ business; quest mix (family, couple, single); average room rate; and nationality mix (ie. from which countries do the guests come?).”

In closing, Butterworth emphasised the importance of having a good receptionist.

“Your business will be made or broken by your receptionist,” stated Butterworth. PB

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

spa focus

26

Singular spa experiences To stand out in the market, spas should offer at least one unique, signature treatment that fits in with their particular ethos. Mimmie Lancaster takes a tour of three unusual South African spa treatments that do just that.

Relaxing in the rain The African Rainforest Experience at the Arabella Hotel and Spa in Kleinmond, Hermanus offers 14 fantastic sensorial treatment steps. The main aim of this sensory journey is to stimulate the body’s natural detoxification process and to bring about total relaxation.

After being warmly greeted and welcomed by spa manager Izak de Bruyn, I set off to change into my robe and slippers and am led to the Rainforest Experience area. Even though this is a guided experience

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

with all the treatment steps clearly indicated at each station, my therapist is always nearby.

What follows is a sublime experience that starts off in the exfoliation room, where one lies on a heated slab and is thoroughly scrubbed by a therapist and then rinsed off with hot water. Thereafter you get to ladle yourself with cool water from the fountain in the anteroom.

The next 10 minutes is spent in the Eucalyptus-infused steam room followed by a really refreshing cold shower. Following this is the rest phase, which is done while under an aromatic towel, fragranced with lemon, orange peppermint ginger and more.

Now I’m off to the aromatherapy sauna, where my pre-selected blend of oils is used. It’s time again for the pores to open, the body to perspire and for toxins to be flushed.

At the waterfall shower I must be careful not to exceed the two minutes allowed, as this is such a great sensation. Then it’s time for the dry heat sauna, where I spend five more minutes to detox and relax tired muscles. This is followed by time in the cold mountain mist area, where soft cold mist falls gently on the body and cools you down.

I’m encouraged to drink a lot of

online at www.probeauty.co.za

spa focus

27 water throughout my journey thus far, so after another glass of water I get to lie on the warm relaxation bed for 15 minutes. My therapist then guides me to the reflexology footbaths, where I alternate between hot and cold baths for the feet.

The Rainforest Shower Bed that follows proves to be the highlight of the experience, with the temperature alternating between 30° and 40°C. This experience starts off with you lying on your back while water ‘rains’ from massive heads high above.

You then turn onto your stomach and pulsating water rains down onto the back of your body. Wow! My therapist now leads me to the drying and application room, where I get to apply soothing and hydrating moisturisers. From here I’m taken to relax in the candle room for approximately 30 minutes. I fall into a wonderfully deep and restful sleep.

Upon waking up, I feel totally rested, relaxed and ready for a beautiful tea ritual, where a rooibos and chamomile blend of tea is served.

Bush backdrop

What would a spa experience in South Africa be without experiencing the bush first-hand? At Etali Safari Lodge & Wellness Centre on the edge of the Kalahari, you are invited into a cool thatched room where the double doors are opened so that the sounds and rhythms of the African bush can be clearly heard. I opt for the signature two-hour Tlhakanya treatment.

The Tswana word ‘tlhakanya’ means to mix and come together. This spa experience starts with a eucalyptus-infused steam room session, followed by a cool shower and a full body scrub expertly performed by well-trained hands. The treatment leaves the body R

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

spa focus

28

feeling tingly and radiant.

An unforgettable massage sequence then follows; it is so unpredictable and unique in its rhythm and movements and combines knobkerries, hot stones and cool marble. Next is a full-body wrap to further cleanse and improve circulation. The experience ends with a beautiful hydrating facial treatment.

As with all treatments offered at the Etali Wellness Centre, the aim is to bring about balance and a sense of wellbeing in a natural, calm environment.

By this time there is a commotion at the water hole only a couple of 100 metres away. I’m told that the elephants have come to drink water!

If this is not Africa at its best, then I don’t know what is.

Spiritual treatment LééfSPA is the new ‘kid’ on the block and recently celebrated its first birthday. A short time ago I experienced its By Still Waters treatment. This is a

An amazing sense of peace and joy fills you.

truly nurturing experience, where not only is physical exhaustion dealt with, but an escape is offered from the disappointments and pain that life may throw our way.

The treatment starts with a foot washing ritual followed by alone time in the steam room, where you perform a self-scrub to rid yourself of dead skin cells, symbolic of removing that which weighs you down.

After the cool shower, your therapist performs a foot and hand treatment.

This is not the normal manicure and pedicure routine but more of a nurturing, nourishing treatment, as if preparing you for your life journey. The therapist invites you to speak about your hurts and disappointments and offers wisdom from scripture.

A wonderfully nurturing facial treatment follows, where your therapist talks you through the fact that you were created as beautiful in the eyes

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

of God and that it takes both inner peace and outward pampering to bring about the beauty created in you.

You are then turned over and receive a deep and intense massage that focuses on the areas that hold stress.

After a blissful half-hour of massage, your therapist anoints you with fragrant oils and speaks a blessing over you.

An amazing sense of peace and joy fills you. This truly is a treatment with a difference. PB

Mimmie Lancaster has been involved in the health, skincare and spa industry for more than 28 years and is a prominent and experienced professional, who is well versed in the wellness industry. E-mail mimmie@symmetryworld.co.za

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salon focus

30

Changes at RUB Bryanston-based salon RUB recently renovated its premises to include a large nail area and has added a new cosmeceutical range to its offering, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

R

UB, which stands for relax, unwind and breathe, first opened its doors in April 2005. Earlier this year owner Jennifer Fieldgate noticed an increased demand for nail treatments.

“Despite the fact that we are a serious skincare centre I recognised the need for a dedicated and spacious nail section in the salon.

I understand my clients when they say they are always short of time, so I thought about creating a place where they can meet up with a friend, have their nails done and purchase their favourite products all at the same time. Multi-tasking at its best!

“It is imperative we offer excellent service as well, and all my nail therapists are highly trained and have many years of experience. People underestimate how specialised nail treatments are; therefore I am proud to say I feel I have the best nail technicians in the business. They win many awards and attend master classes regularly.”

In terms of the salon’s décor, Fieldgate was adamant that RUB have a unisex feel and that men be made to feel comfortable when coming into the salon for treatments.

“Consequently there are absolutely no pinks or pastel hues in the salon. Rather, we have incorporated strong clean lines, with greys and greens, and a few classic pieces to complement some of the contemporary elements in the shop,” she adds.

‘Cult product’ Fieldgate recently decided to take on the Australian cosmeceutical skincare brand, Alpha H Liquid Gold.

“My aesthetic doctor at RUB introduced me to this phenomenal brand and I immediately fell in love with it after using it myself,” she continues. “I had been looking for a more medically based product to complement the already superior brands offered at RUB. The phenomenal ‘cult product’ Liquid Gold is an award-winning resurfacing treatment that uses a state-of-the-art, low pH delivery system to effectively diminish wrinkles, pigmentation and sun damage.

It brightens and revitalises tired, ageing skin, and radically improves the appearance of the complexion.

The Liquid Gold is 5% glycolic and can be successfully slotted into any existing skincare regime.”

Prime position Fieldgate herself has no background in beauty but has always been fascinated by the industry. “Ten years ago, when an empty space became available in a perfectly situated shopping centre (Coachman’s Crossing in Peter Place), I jumped at the opportunity to open an upmarket skin centre to cater for the discerning clients in the area.

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za

salon focus

31

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Full Professional & Retail Range “The shopping centre is directly opposite one of the best private schools in the country (St Stithians) and I noticed the space was available when I was having coffee at the ever-popular Mugg & Bean next door.

There are also many businesses situated around the centre. I had a vision of not only offering an amazing service and top international products to the parents and teachers across the road, and to professionals in the area, but also helping and informing teenagers about the correct way to look after their skin.”

She believes that RUB differentiates itself from other salons in that clients are treated as individuals not just as nameless faces.

“When walking into RUB, our clients are greeted by name and are made to feel at home. Our mission is to form a relationship with them, and help them achieve their goals, whether it is improved skin, anti-ageing, slimming, nails, or IPL treatments.

“We have forged strong bonds throughout the years and have enjoyed many exciting milestones with our clients, such as matric dances, engagements, weddings, babies, holidays, and teens growing into beautiful young professionals,” concludes Fieldgate. PB

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of the skin. DMK uses a Transdermal delivery system that penetrates through the surface of the skin, allowing vital nutrients to reach new skin cells.

DMK professional treatments effectively assist in remodelling the scarred tissue with a specialised formula that dissolves and softens the damaged tissue topically. DMK then rebuilds the skin with its signature enzyme therapy to restore the skin’s tissue back to a healthy state.

The DMK concept is based on science and the natural processes of the skin. By understanding how a condition is caused, DMK can then provide a remedial program that effectively works to revise this unwanted condition.

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rejuvenating facials

33

Enzymes rule!

Brenda Mzila opts for DMK’s signature Enzyme Treatment to address an uneven skin tone, pustules and the dark circles under her eyes.

Exfoliation

Sebum Soak

Lindsay Gething applying cleanser

M

y treatment took place at DMK Head Office Clinic in Kelvin, Johannesburg, where therapist Lindsay Gething asked me to complete a detailed consultation card, while stressing that the treatment is based on the concept of enabling the skin to function optimally.

“At DMK we work with the skin’s natural chemistry. This treatment contains messenger enzymes that rejuvenate the skin. It is also ideal for acne sufferers,” she explained.

Gething commenced the treatment by performing a double cleanse with the DMK Deep Pore Cleanser.

To prepare for the extraction phase, Gething applied Sebum Soak, mixed with an activator called Aqua D’Herb.

This combination spirals into the pores and loosens sebum. My face was then covered with plastic film and a hot compress and left under a steamer for a few minutes.

For extraction, Gething used a needle to break the skin on the pustules and noted that the impurities were coming out very easily. After that she applied Dermatox, which contains kelp and acts like a liquid magnet to

online at www.probeauty.co.za

draw out impurities; it was left on for three minutes and then wiped off.

“I’m now going to exfoliate your skin using Quick Peel, which contains extract of Cinnamon Cassia Nut. This causes the blood to rush to the surface. Your skin will start to feel a little hot during this phase,” said Gething.

Just prior to applying the DMK Enzyme Mask 1, she put some Melanotech Drops onto my skin to inhibit the production of melanin and Pore Reduction Drops. She applied the Enzyme Mask in an upwards motion and warned me that I might experience a slight throbbing as the mask dried. I could really feel my skin begin to tighten.

As a bonus I got to experience the DMK Medi Pedi treatment, performed by therapist Phindi Khumalo, during this phase. It was such a relaxing treatment that I actually fell asleep.

After 45 minutes Gething removed the mask with a wet compress and did a double cleanse with the Deep Pore Cleanser. She then ran a block of ice over my skin to reduce any inflammation.

Some Melanotech Drops and Pore Reduction Drops were

Enzyme Mask

After treatment

applied, as well as Beta Gel, which contains Beta-glucans to boost the skin’s immunity.

“For the transdermal transmission phase, I’m first going to spray your skin with some Herb & Mineral Mist to replace moisture, as well as Seba-E Oil, which mimics the secretions of the sebaceous glands,” she commented.

Gething applied the Crème Citrique Plus, which contains Vitamin C, and added Hydrophilic Crème to lock in the moisture. Some DMK Sunscreen, with an SPF of 30, finished off the treatment.

My skin looked positively radiant after the treatment and I’m really keen to continue it on a monthly basis. PB Contact DMK: 011 262 6120

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

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rejuvenating facials

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A ‘firm’ belief in ‘lifting’ As its name suggests, the Proteinous Lifting Therapy from Juliette Armand is based on proteins that tone the skin and restore firmness, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

Meghan Lees performs arm massage Enzyme mask

E

ver since I hit the postmenopause phase, my skin has really aged. So I was delighted to head off to Poise Brands to experience the Proteinous Lifting Therapy from Juliette Armand’s Elements range.

“This is our anti-ageing facial and has an immediate lifting effect,” said training manager Meghan Less. “It includes an enzyme exfoliation which is really effective, despite being very gentle on sensitive skin. You will literally feel like your face has had a lift post-treatment.”

The treatment began with a thorough cleanse, using Juliette Armand’s Sensitive Cleansing Gel. “The gel contains an ingredient called Osmopure, a plant extract which protects skin cells from the cytotoxic action of smoke, cigarettes and other air pollutants,” explained Less.

This was followed by the application of the Preperator Lotion, which contains Juliette Armand’s trademarked Cleansing Complex and has 5% AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids), namely lactic acid and glycolic acid.

I experienced a tingling sensation on my skin.

Next, Less applied the Exfoliating Enzyme Mask; this felt cold and refreshing.

“Comprised of enzymes, this mask effectively removes dead skin cells and is far gentler than acid or mechanical

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Proteinous Lift Mask

Post treatment

peels. It contains papaya to encourage cellular rejuvenation,” she said.

The mask was left on for 15 minutes, during which time Less performed an arm massage.

Once she had wiped off the mask with sponges, she applied Hyaluronic Acid Serum to restore hydration.

“This serum has 20% hyaluronic acid content,” continued Less. “Hyaluronic acid can retain up to 1000 times its weight in water and is therefore the most effective moisturising ingredient in cosmetology.”

The next phase was the Proteinous Lift Mask, applied in the direction of the neck and facial muscles and left on for 10 minutes. This contains albumen derived from egg whites. As the mask

Lifting Fort Serum

dried on my face, my skin began to feel increasingly taut. The mask strengthens the connective tissues of the skin, while smoothing out wrinkles.

Once this phase was complete, Less removed the mask with a brush, again in the direction of the muscles.

She then applied some Microlift Serum, a ‘flash-lifting’ serum for an instantaneous effect on targeted areas, such as around the eyes, between the brows and around the mouth.

The second-last stage of the treatment was the application of the Lifting Fort Serum, which is for longterm lifting. Less finished off with the Hydra Firming 24h Cream, a multiaction cream based on the protein complex, Milk Peptide.

Post treatment I noticed that the wrinkles around my eyes had smoothed out and my skin felt rejuvenated and lifted.

This facial is ideal for special occasions where clients want immediately rejuvenated and freshened skin. PB Contact Poise Brands: 011 033 0500

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

permanent make-up

36

Industry professionals convene at PCASA Conference

The Permanent Cosmetic Association of South Africa (PCASA) held its annual conference at the end of August in Melrose Arch, Johannesburg.

D

elegates who attended the one-day PCASA Conference were very happy with the event, according to PCASA board member and Certified Permanent Cosmetic Professional (CPCP), Nikki van Gend.

“We usually have a two- or threeday conference with an international speaker but unfortunately this year our international speaker, Anouska Cousana, was forced to cancel on very short notice due to illness and we didn’t have enough time to organise another international speaker. Despite this setback, we received fantastic feedback from delegates and the overall mood of the conference was positive,” says Van Gend.

As to popular sessions at the conference, she cites Paula Becker’s microblading presentation as one.

“Microblading is the current buzzword on everyone’s lips in terms of permanent makeup (PMU),” continues Van Gend. “It is a form of

cosmetic tattooing that involves a hand tool and a specific formation of needles. The needles are lined up next to each other and these in effect become a ‘blade’. This type of needle configuration is so popular because it can create a thin line that looks like a hair, thus creating a more natural looking result for eyebrows. It is an advanced procedure and needs proper training and experience. One can easily ‘slice’ the skin and cause scar tissue if not properly trained in working with special needle configurations.”

Other speakers at the conference included eye specialist Dr Dirk Booysen, Done Leech, who focused on the fine art of doing lips in PMU, while Philippa Crichton spoke on needle choices.

A hot topic at the conference was the way forward for the local industry.

“The conference highlighted the importance of continuing education,” says Van Gend. “We believe that the only way the local industry will grow is through the regular attendance

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

Dr. Dirk Booysen

of a workshop or conference with a recognised educator. ​PCASA, which is a Chapter of the Society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals (SPCP), aims to offer workshops for its members at ground level and attend to the specific needs of today’s technician.”

Van Gend believes it is imperative for South Africa to keep in the loop with international trends. “That is why PCASA, as a group, can organise international speakers to come to our country so that everyone can benefit first hand from overseas speakers. The only way forward for any industry is to work together and to work selflessly.”

In 2016, PCASA will host the International Conference in Johannesburg on 10, 11 and 12 June.

Latest PCASA news is that new board members have been appointed, namely Unaiza Moideen, Carla Becker and Michelle Girling. Done Leech is chairperson of the board. PB

online at www.probeauty.co.za

permanent make-up

37

Making your mark In the hands of a skilled technician, cosmetic tattooing, also known as permanent make-up (PMU), is a safe practice, with the potential to attract additional business into the salon, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

M

Pics courtesy Manuela Incendiario

ore and more salons are offering PMU services, where they will bring in a freelance technician as per client

demand.

One such PMU technician is Manuela Incendiario, a member of The Permanent Cosmetics Association of South Africa (PCASA), who has been working with the Professional Skin Care Lab in Johannesburg for several years.

“Permanent cosmetic enhancement is a fascinating, innovative and successful treatment used to enhance your eyes, brows, lips and cheeks with a soft, natural finish, which has the appearance of perfectly applied make-up.

“This effect is achieved, in clinical conditions, by infusing hypoallergenic pigments into the dermal layer of the skin, where they remain permanently

European Eye Region Before

but then gradually fade over time.

Designs that are common are those that resemble make-up, such as eyelining and other permanent enhancing colours to the skin of the face, lips, and eyelids,” explains Incendiario.

Areola reconstruction PMU has proved its worth in medical restoration, such as in correcting imperfections from scars and areas where skin lacks pigment.

Another important area is that of areola reconstruction, as Yvette Zacharowitz, MD of Uptown Girl and Nouveau Contour SA, points out: “Many women must undergo a

European Eye Region After

mastectomy, which can require not only the removal of breast tissue, but nipple tissue as well. Often, breast cancer survivors are left with no areolas and areas of scarring in places where the surgery was performed.

This leads to some disfigurement that can be difficult to deal with.

“Many breast cancer survivors do not realise the options that they have, assuming their only solution is additional surgery for areola reconstruction.

Plus, following mastectomy and breast reconstruction, often women do not want to deal with any more surgeries, or are not good candidates for grafts. R

Before

Areoloa reconstruction

by Yvette Zacharowitz

Directly after PMU

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Healed

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

permanent make-up

38 “But today, mastectomy patients actually have non-surgical options for nipple reconstruction. With derma pigmentation, the most natural look for areola reconstruction can be created, whether matching to remaining tissue or creating areolas bilaterally across the chest wall. This is done by using pigment colours that mimic nature and which complement the remaining tissue and the overall colour palette of the client.”

Zacharowitz, who has over 20 years of experience in derma pigmentation, has developed her unique optical illusion techniques to create a realistic areola and nipple. She is well known in medical and aesthetic circles for her medical camouflage and reconstructive procedures, and continually consults with leading surgeons around the world to improve and refine this life-changing procedure.

Pigment choices There are two categories of PMU pigments available to technicians – inorganic and organic. Nikki van Gend, of Image Division in George, uses both types in her work.

“I believe there is an unnecessary division of these two categories of pigments, as there is a place in PMU for both. Unfortunately here and overseas some pigment manufacturers try to create an inaccurate picture about a competitor pigment purely to gain a part of the market. The true fact is that both inorganic and organic pigments can deliver wonderful results. It is up to the technician to look for in-depth

European Lip Line Before

studies about pigments and get the true facts from a chemistry and medical point of view,” comments Van Gend.

She advises anyone who is looking for information on how pigments work to go and learn from educators who form part of a group of people that is not biased towards one brand’s view.

“For example, you can order an official publication on understanding permanent cosmetic colour from www.spcp.org,” she continues. “The important thing to consider when it comes to choice of pigments is the safety of that pigment, not whether it is organic or inorganic.​ Examples of safety measures are Material Safety Data sheets (MSDs), which should be available from the pigment manufacturer.

“Also, a pigment should ideally be made up of colour that has a colour index code on the list compiled by the Food & Drug Administration of America (FDA). In layman’s terms this means that the pigment manufacturer only used colours that have a track record with the FDA regarding safety. There are colour codes available on the FDA’s list for both inorganic and organic colours.”

Hair Follicle Simulation Earlier this year PMU technician Sulé Loggenberg introduced the Hair Follicle Simulation treatment, using the Oron57 device, to the South African market.

“The Hair Follicle Simulation treatment is doing extremely well

After

Pics courtesy Manuela Incendiario

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

Before

After

and the response after the launch was fantastic. As it is still a very new and exclusive procedure, I am sure the demand will just keep growing,” says Loggenberg.

The Oron57 is an Israeli-designed machine that creates the optical illusion of hair on a bald scalp. Created

by Moshe Alul of NPM Technologies in Israel, the Oron57 comprises a set of 57 needles set on a roller so as to tattoo the scalp. Until recently, the standard method for introducing pigment into the scalp was by insertion, using only a single needle, in a long, painful and time-consuming process.

Loggenberg often performs PMU techniques called ‘3D Brows’ and ‘3D Lips’. The former is a technique to give the illusion of fine hair on the eyebrows to make them more full and enhanced.

“This technique is exactly the same as microblading, but only done with a permanent make-up machine.

“3D Lips is a combination of colours used during the lip procedure.

It makes the lips look fuller and also gives the illusion of glossy lips,” she states.

Loggenberg observes that the PMU market has grown enormously in South Africa over the last two years.

“There are many new technicians in the industry and one should definitely make sure that their choice of technician has the right qualifications to perform permanent make-up procedures,” she concludes. PB

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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professional beauty awards 2015

41

We are the champions!

The biggest night on the industry calendar, the Professional Beauty Awards Gala Dinner, took place on August 30 at Room 5 in Rivonia, Johannesburg.

2015 Finalists

Day Spa of the Year Touch @ Seasons Urban Glow, Randburg (Winner) Danika Spa

Hotel/Resort Spa of the Year Bushmans Kloof (Winner) The Twelve Apostles Kurland Luxury Spa

Salon of theYear (3 Rooms or Less) Midori Eco Salon (Winner) Madeleen Health & Beauty Studio Skin and Nail Lounge

Salon of theYear (4 Rooms or More) Sherbet Angel Beauty Studio Professional Skin Care Lab (Winner)

W

inners of the 2015 Professional Beauty Awards and the Industry Awards were announced at the Gala Dinner event, which was attended by over 300 guests.

Master of ceremonies, popular comedian Joe Parker of Parker’s Comedy and Jive, presided over the event, with live music provided by Brent Harris & Thee Jam. Mark Moloney, CEO of the Professional Beauty Group, gave the welcome address.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Aesthetic Clinic of the Year Pure Esthetics The Laser Beautique, Bedfordview The Laser Beautique, Woodlands (Winner)

Nail Salon of the Year SOHO Nails l Waxing l Beauty Nina Belle Nail Spa (Winner) Sorbet Nails Hyde Park

Spa/Salon Manager of the Year Cecilia Labuschagne – Beauty Studio Marian Nelson – Origin Day Spa Elaine Theunissen-Kleynhans – Danika Spa (Winner)

Therapist of the Year Charlene Oosthuysen – The Spa Warehouse Lifestyle Store & Skincare Studio (Winner) Tiffani Dreyer – The Laser Beautique, Rosebank Chrizanne van Eeden – The Laser Beautique, Pretoria

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

professional beauty awards 2015

42 Best Salon (3 Rooms or Less) Midori Eco Salon (Anisha Patel)

What do you feel is the significance of having won this award?

I believe it gives Midori recognition as far as being the best salon in Johannesburg.

What is your salon’s vision?

We hope to be widely spread – eventually one per city.

What business practices have you implemented to ensure success?

Respect your clients; train staff regularly; and stick to your ethos at all times.

What is your service ethos?

Midori is about helping clients reach their beauty expectations while getting great service, and staying green in our industry by making healthy choices.

Best Salon (4 Rooms or More) Professional Skin Care Lab (Gina Gall) How does it feel to have won this award?

How do you keep your services and products relevant?

It feels amazing and we’ve all been on a high since we heard the news. We are all very pleased and exceptionally proud to receive this award. It is wonderful to be recognised in the industry. We are delighted to be recognised as one of the best salons in the country.

By going for treatments at salons in Johannesburg; attending trade shows; reading industry magazines; attending training and/or workshops every month; doing insalon practical training; listening to our clients and hearing about other services they have experienced.

How does your salon differentiate itself in the market?

How do you retain staff?

We make each client feel welcome and make each visit a memorable one. Our service is consistently good.

We customise our treatments and never just do ‘the usual’ as we go the extra mile. The salon’s products and equipment enable us to get amazing results.

I believe we literally change our clients’ skin and bodies by touching them with our hands.

By allowing staff to be accountable for themselves and not micromanaging them.

As a qualified aesthetician, I work in my business as a therapist daily, treating and retailing to clients myself. I think this gives me the opportunity to be there for my staff and I explain to them that I have an open door policy, so they can meet with me or call me at any time during the day and I’ll endeavour

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

to help them with any issues that they may be experiencing. My staff know that I consider them as part of my family.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

professional beauty awards 2015

43 Nail Salon of the Year Nina Belle Nail Spa (Sylwia Nourse) This was the first time you entered this competition – how do you feel about winning?

We were thrilled to have been nominated and it was amazing to see how many of our clients were rooting for us. Obviously deep down I thought we deserved to win, because we are so passionate about what we do and we treasure the relationships we have developed with so many of our clients.

I am so fortunate and blessed to have such an amazing team that shares my vision for the salon.

What do you think makes Nina Belle different from other nail salons?

I think my philosophy has always been a simple one – do the basics really, really well and don’t pretend to be something you’re not. Highlight your strengths and do not over-promise and then under-deliver. Be kind to your staff and they will be kind back.

What practices have you implemented to ensure success?

Great customer service, highly capable staff and aligning myself with the best brands in the industry. On a day-to-day basis I pay attention to the small details, like ensuring that client bookings are taken correctly, client

queries are responded to, checking that sufficient stock (professional and retail) is on hand, offering tea or coffee to clients, taking rebookings and personally addressing any complaints, should they arise. Most important is having friendly, happy staff and front of house.

Aesthetic Clinic of the Year The Laser Beautique Woodlands (Tzvia Hermann) How does it feel to have won this award?

We are overwhelmed and proud to have won. It is such an honour to receive this accolade and to be recognised by our industry professionals. Our manager, Shana Fosteras, and aestheticians Daphne Mira, Tatum Winter and Bianca De Witt have worked hard and really deserve this award. To be able to display the award in our clinic shows our clients that we are on top of our game.

What are the outstanding features of your clinic?

We offer the very best in aesthetic technology, treatments and retail products and are customer-centric and service-orientated. As part of a franchise we have standard operating procedures to which we adhere, and we have support from head office,

online at www.probeauty.co.za

which enables us to focus on ensuring that every client is valued, that safety is a priority and that results are key.

What is your philosophy regarding clients?

We only offer treatments and products that are true to their labels and therefore we do not disappoint.

Every client is treated as an

individual and every treatment as if it’s the client’s first. The franchise prioritises consistency to earn clients’ trust.

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

professional beauty awards 2015

44 Therapist of the Year Charlene Oosthuysen (The Spa Warehouse Lifestyle Store & Skincare Studio) What sets you apart from most therapists?

I am always willing to learn more to increase my knowledge in order to give the best advice to my clients. Furthermore, I’m always present while doing treatments because my clients pay me for my time and undivided attention.

I am consistent in my work and love my job. I truly care about each client’s wellbeing and am always willing to walk the extra mile for them.

What factors do you focus on in order to excel in your profession?

I attend various conferences and the Professional Beauty Expos to see all the latest technology and products.

In addition, I focus on my own health, eat and sleep well and exercise regularly to ensure that I can perform 100%.

Heloise Janse van Rensberg (Elemis) and Charlene Oosthuysen

for all their loyal support, as well as Jacoline and Veronica Wentzel of The Spa Warehouse Lifestyle Store & Skincare Studio for believing in me and inviting me to join their team five years ago. Lastly, I just want to thank God for giving me this talent and for all the blessings thus far in my career.

What do you like most about your job?

Being a therapist is such a satisfying profession to me as you get the opportunity to make a client look and feel better at the same time. I would like to take this opportunity to thank my family, clients and friends

Salon/Spa Manager of the Year Elaine Theunissen-Kleynhans (Danika Spa) What qualities make for a good spa manager?

Good communicating skills; a lot of patience; creativity; and always being motivated and positive yourself so that you can inspire those working with you. If you keep your staff motivated and happy, it will show in their work

How do you motivate your staff?

Incentives – this varies from free treatments, free products, vouchers from other retail outlets, money, off-time etc. I make it different every time to keep it exciting for my staff. They also need time to relax and unwind – we recently had a pamper day where I had students come in and spoil us at our spa. I also set targets for staff to work towards.

What areas do you need to focus on to ensure a successfully run business?

Ensuring that clients receive the best, most professional service possible. This leads to return clients.

How do you deal with challenging clients?

Keep calm, smile and try to resolve problems in the most professional way and as speedily as possible. Listen to what the client’s concerns and expectations are and focus on that.

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za

professional beauty awards 2015

45 Day Spa of the Year Urban Glow Randburg (Olivia Ryder) How does it feel to have won this award, especially considering that Urban Glow Boksburg won last year?

I am so proud and feel very blessed! I was hoping we would win it, but didn’t think it was possible after Boksburg had won it last year. Wow – what a great accomplishment!

What do you feel sets Urban Glow Randburg apart from your competition?

We offer our guests an absolute quality and personalised service. I believe that we honestly spoil them and treat them like true royalty. We pride ourselves on maintaining a 5-star day spa.

What procedures have you implemented to make your spa succeed?

We run specials on a monthly basis and do our utmost to accommodate guests. The spa has also partnered with various businesses to make our services available to as many people as possible.

Do you have plans to open any more Urban Glow Day Spas in the future?

Definitely – this is my vision and dream. In time, I aim to develop Urban Glow into a franchise, and give others the opportunity to partner with me and share in the Urban

Michelle Roberts (Black Pearl) and Olivia Ryder

Glow journey. My sister (Leah Livanos Henderson), my mother (Billie-Ann Livanos) and myself have also partnered together to develop an entire Urban Glow body range, and, soon, a skin and hair range as well. Our dream is to get into all salons and day spas and later retail stores such as Dischem.

Hotel/Resort Spa of the Year The Spa at Bushmans Kloof (Dee Basson) How do you feel about having won this award?

The Spa at Bushmans Kloof is very proud to have achieved this wonderful recognition from Professional Beauty, which inspires us to continue creating memorable, authentic and unique spa experiences.

What do you feel is unique about your spa?

The surroundings are therapy in themselves; our beautiful landscapes rejuvenate all your senses, replenish your spirit and achieve inner peace and harmony. Bushmans Kloof is a very tranquil setting, which allows us to create individual and unique spa experiences for each guest.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

What procedures have you implemented to ensure your spa’s success?

We have the necessary protocols in place to ensure consistency and conduct monthly training sessions in house. I ensure that our product houses do regular training with my staff. As a team we know the importance of understanding our guests’ needs and treating each experience individually.

As a hotel/resort spa, how do you retain staff?

We have great incentive programmes, which keeps the team motivated and challenged. Doing spa treatments in this amazing setting allows us to be passionate about our profession and the treatments that we can offer to guests.

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

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business tips

47

A win-win situation

The Professional Beauty Industry Awards acknowledge suppliers for their service and support. Through active marketing campaigns, we were able to receive the industry’s choices.

Best Supplier – Skincare Anesi Beaute Babor Environ RégimA (Winner)

2015 Finalists

Best Supplier – Nail Care Bio Sculpture Gel Looking Good LCN Sparkle Cosmetics (Winner) Young Nails

Best Supplier – Equipment/Supplies Leonelda Products Marica Salon Specialists Smart Buy (Winner) Upfront Distribution

Best Marketing Dermalogica Environ (Winner) Poise Brands RégimA

Best Training Dermalogica (Winner) Radiant Healthcare RégimA Theravine

Best Sales Representative Barbara Meintjies – Juliette Armand Francis Swart – RégimA Juanita Scholtz – Theravine Nina von Wielligh – Babor (Winner)

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

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48

Best Marketing

Environ (Wayne La Grange)

What do you feel sets Environ apart in terms of marketing?

In my view great marketers listen. We’ve engaged actively with key account salons and service partners in order to deliver exactly what they require to capture the hearts and minds of South African consumers. Environ operates only through qualified skin professionals. We respect them for their hard work, the passion they display in their work and appreciate that, through this hard work, they’ve built Environ around the world. Their needs come first.

Please describe a recent Environ marketing campaign that you feel has worked really well in this competitive market.

During its launch period, Intensive Revival Masque (‘Facelift in a Jar’) sold over 6 500 units. This awardwinning, world-class product was almost five years in

development and involved clinical trials of over a hundred consumers. The launch campaign was a 360-degree effort; Revival was jettisoned into the market at glamorous ‘reveal’ events around South Africa, at the trendiest locations hosted by popular celebrity and Environ Ambassador, Nico Panagio.

The launch was supported by education seminars, heavy in-store activity, such as sampling, beautiful artwork on the shelves, related in-salon professional treatment regimes, point-of-sale hardware, scientific information brochures, and media launches around South Africa resulting in over R5m worth of free PR/ editorial written by leading editors countrywide. We also ran an international holiday competition for the top-selling therapist. Beautiful, limited edition (one of its kind in the world) consumer gift packs were also created.

Best Training Dermalogica (Diana van Sittert) What do you feel that Dermalogica does differently to other suppliers in terms of training?

It is of utmost importance to Dermalogica’s education department to be fully present in training sessions with a servant leadership approach.

Not only do we focus on excellent content delivery but we believe in a deeper connection with our students. Subject matter shared does not only focus on the product/s itself but also on a deeper understanding of the skin and how we can improve skin health overall. Our curriculum changes on a quarterly basis to stay ahead of trends and how they will influence the skincare business. We are fully focused on student feedback and adjusting our curriculum or delivery based on their needs.

What would you say are the key elements to training success?

Value adding should be a key element in training. We so often focus on the brand’s content instead of putting an additional focus on how the content should be delivered in a consumer-centric approach. Our students are our business and they should be treated as a key element.

It’s vital to balance business needs with those of the students.

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za

professional beauty awards 2015

49

Best Supplier Skincare – RégimA (Jacqui Faucitt) What do you do differently when it comes to client services?

RégimA distributors are flexible and willing to offer customised solutions made to measure for a client’s budget, their type of clientele and their exact needs. We do not pressurise therapists to take our whole range of products, only those that would be suited to their particular requirements. This allows the smaller home-based salons a chance to become part of the RégimA network without excessive opening orders.

Furthermore, we do not pressurise clients to achieve monthly sales targets.

We visit our salons regularly and offer consultation days, in-house training for therapists, ‘Ask the Expert’ evenings, launches and sponsorships.

In addition we offer clients personalised client service, rather than implementing computers with FAQ and automation for customer service tactics. Our personal, ‘human touch’ is what elevates our customer service from good to great.

What do you feel makes your clients satisfied with your service offering?

Speed and efficiency is the key. We pride ourselves on our fast responses to enquiries, orders and phone calls.

Time is money, so we invoice immediately orders are received and within minutes our clients know their order is being processed. Very importantly, what we also do differently, which our clients love, is to allow for additions to their orders without it costing them more for processing and delivery.

Speedy and regular delivery schedules make products accessible in a very short time.

We aim to please and by offering the client a pleasant experience in dealing with our company, we build business and retain existing clientele. RégimA offers technical support on an everyday basis, when it comes to skin and product-related enquiries of any sort. Regular and continuous training is offered to support our therapists and keep them updated and on top of the latest developments.

First impressions last; we handle each client with respect and ensure that they are amazed at the lengths we will go to in order to assist them in every aspect.

Best Supplier: Equipment/Supplies Smart Buy (Adriaan Jordaan) How does it feel to have won this award three years in succession?

It feels absolutely awesome and we are extremely grateful to the clients who support us and who have done so for so many years.

What sets your company apart in terms of service?

Here at Smart Buy we work together as a team and strive to keep our clients happy and satisfied at all times.

How do you keep your services relevant to client’s demands?

By understanding their demands and requirements and keeping up with modern techniques and new products for the beauty industry.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Tersia Coetzee

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

professional beauty awards 2015

50

Best Supplier: Nail Care Sparkle Cosmetics (Debbie Kayle) How does it feel to win this award two years in a row?

It is a very humbling honour. We appreciate how hard business is right now and we strive to give the very best we can to our valued clients by way of product, pricing and service. Winning this award shows us that we are on the right path.

What makes your company different to others in terms of service?

That is a difficult question to answer as I don’t know about other companies.

At Sparkle Cosmetics we ensure that we give 100% of ourselves always and ‘sparkle’ as we go.

Best Sales Representative Nina von Wielligh (Babor) How does it feel to have won the sales representative of the year award?

I am surprised and very happy. I truly did not expect to win as the other brands that I was up against have amazing representatives, and I was very honoured to have been in the company of such great competitors.

How do you strengthen your relationships with clients?

You need to be there for your clients. No matter how big or small the salon or spa may be, you need to treat all your stockists as equals.

How do you attract new business?

We have a brilliant marketing team. I personally try and make contact with at least eight ‘new’ places every month.

Why are you passionate about your profession?

I believe that the health and beauty industry plays a significant role in how individuals perceive themselves. We work with people – not only on a physical level – but emotionally as well. I am in an industry where I get to speak to many different people on a daily basis and make a difference – however big or small, every single day.

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za

015

product focus – makeup

51

All made up Professional make-up products differ from consumer make-up in that they are used by make-up artists for film, television, stage, runway and special occasions, such as weddings and red carpet.

Magic cloth

Brushing up

A luxuriously soft two-sided cleansing cloth, Makeup Eraser requires only water to remove all makeup, including waterproof mascara and stay-fast lipstick, effortlessly and effectively. The smoother side removes the makeup while the slightly coarser side gently exfoliates the skin.

Kohl Make-up has added a long handle, flat-ended Kabuki brush to its range. Made of white goat hair, the brush gently works foundation across the skin, alleviating streaking and lines. It works really well when blending and softening lines while highlighting and contouring.

082 963 4601

072 479 0541

A higher level Perfect for the festive season, the MUD (Makeup Designory) Elevate Collection comprises four eyeshadow colours (Canvas, Onyx, Tinsel and Vineyard) that have a unique velvet consistency, allowing them to glide on smoothly and evenly. The collection also includes a lipstick (Rose Clay) and a lip pencil (Mauve).

011 656 0120

Pencil power Bodyography’s Bali Bronze and Midnight Blue eye pencils are infused with coconut oil, so they are ultrahydrating and glide on effortlessly. The longwearing shades are both metallic and have a shimmer property that impart a light to the eye area.

012 621 3300

Eye Colors // Tinsel, Canvas, Onyx, Vineyard // Lipstick // Rose Clay // Lip Pencil // Mauve

online at www.probeauty.co.za

mudshop.com

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

A keratolytic product to effectively remove & soften hard, dry skin.

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53

An ‘active’ science The one certainty in the skincare industry is that there will always be more sophisticated and technological advances in terms of active ingredients and the effects thereof, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

‘S

kincare speak’ in recent years has revolved around ingredients such as AHAs, BHAs, TCA, retinol, Vitamin C, Vitamin E, niacinamide, resveratrol, curcuminoid, alpha lipoic acid, hyaluronic acid, stem cells, copper, growth factors and peptides, among others.

Once a new ingredient is identified it has to be formulated in such a way as to be absorbable by the skin. Science’s understanding of how the skin ages is a big focus of study.

Following on from the launch of Intensive Revival Masque earlier this year, South African skincare brand Environ recently launched Avance DFP312 technology.

Says Environ founder Dr Des Fernandes: “For Avance I chose three winning peptide complexes; when this collagen-stimulating group of peptides is uniquely combined, it results in a special synergy, producing even better results which can be likened to those

of seven peptides. We use supplierrecommended concentrations and exceed them as well.”

Commenting on how peptides actually work, Fernandes explains: “In order to react to their environment or to internal stimuli and to regulate their activity, cells use several clearly defined signalling pathways that will transfer information from the cell surface to the internal effector system. Thus, a peptide can link to a matching cell-surface receptor to relay information into the cell using various signalling pathways. It works like a key and a keyhole. Thus the structure of the peptide is important.

Different peptides can trigger different messages.”

Reflecting on the award-winning Intensive Revival Masque, Fernandes notes that its combination of asiatic, lactic and mandellic acids has been scientifically proven to trigger growth factors which help to rejuvenate and revive skin, leading R

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

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54

Once a new ingredient is identified it has to be formulated in such a way as to be absorbable by the skin. Science’s understanding of how the skin ages is a big focus of study.

to a younger, fresher appearance.

“The result of four years of research, the Intensive Revival Masque is one of the most extensively trialled skincare products on the market,” explains Fernandes.

In vogue Jacqui Faucitt of RégimA agrees that peptides are very much in vogue.

“They offer a plethora of advantages, as they provide synthesised and safer penetrating options which natural proteins cannot provide.

“The development of multifunctional peptides is advancing in technology and safety on a very regular basis. Matrixyl 3000 is one of the best-known collagen signalling peptides, stimulating synthesis of the skin’s key constituents, collagen, elastin and glucosaminoglycans.

“Nanotechnology is developing and improving as we speak. There are now more advanced, safe options available that have a profound effect on skin treatment. Their popularity is increasing as exploration of their potential is being realised. Nanotechnology will be at the forefront in the future.”

She notes that RégimA has

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

revolutionised wound-healing, using the combined benefits of nanoCentella and elastin-stimulating peptides to create products with the potential to revolutionise skin treatment, true rejuvenation, woundhealing and scar remodelling.

A recently released RégimA Zone product utilises combined peptides and nano-Centella, as well as RégimA trademarked Centelastin, at the highest clinical efficacy. The Zone Quantum Elastin-Collagen Revival is an anti-ageing product, designed to promote repair and stimulate healthy Collagen III synthesis, re-elasticising and firming the skin with resultant smoothing of wrinkles.

“We are extremely excited about a world-first product to be released in the not-too-distant future. It contains substances shown to be able to stimulate and improve skin renewal processes, accelerating and improving quality and results in a re-densified and thicker epidermis in eight weeks by reversing the natural degradation of nervous fibres and their growth restarts, counterbalancing the effects of time.”

Probiotic approach With the latest research into the Human Microbiome Project releasing findings on the importance of microbes in our existence, South African certified organic skincare

online at www.probeauty.co.za

technological advances

55

brand Esse has chosen to focus heavily on its microbiome technologies.

Says Esse founder Trevor Steyn: “Although the brand has always considered the importance that bacteria play in skin health, it is becoming increasingly evident that skin health is primarily reliant on a healthy skin biome to deal effectively with ageing and environmental aggressors.

“Last year we launched the first Esse Biome Plus product – the Toner Plus. It contains elements of probiotics that create an ideal skin environment to support the growth of healthy and varied microbes.”

In June 2015 Esse launched its Esse Plus line locally and internationally. These products all contain probiotic elements at one or more of the following defined levels: Level 4 (these products use the ‘broth’ from a microbial soup); Level 3 (this method results in an ‘extract’ that contains the cytoplasm of probiotic microbes); and Level 2 (the culture of the whole probiotics is heated to 60°C and cooled again over three successive days).

These three levels of probiotic supplementation are relatively easy to formulate with. The ingredient is simply added to the formulation with no real change in the preservative system or in the rest of the product.

“Level 1 is the incorporation of live probiotic microbes in the final product. There are some difficulties in this process. The use of a preservative system would kill the microbes, so the product needs to be preservative-free. The Esse Plus Probiotic Serum contains probiotics at this level.

“Esse includes its Biome Plus logo wherever any of the above four levels of probiotics are included in a product,” concludes Steyn.

Retinol returns Drawing on one of the most powerful ingredients recommended by medical professionals to treat the signs of ageing radically, Dermalogica recently launched Overnight Retinol Repair. R

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

RESURFACING BALM RESURFACING BALM

INTENSIVE SCAR REPAIR

INTENSIVE SCAR REPAIR

Care for Compromised Skin

technological advances

56 synthesis and offer antioxidant protection in combatting free radicals; and a unique bioenergised Copper (Cu++) Amino Acid Complex, clinically proven to help to reduce visible wrinkles and increase collagen and elastin production.

Stem cells

“We believe that this is the first retinol treatment to offer a unique customisation option, allowing users to enjoy the benefits of a retinoid while experiencing maximum comfort and efficacy,” says Natasha Proksch, national marketing manager of Dermalogica South Africa.

She continues: “Key to the formula is 0.5% retinol, pure Vitamin A, which has been demonstrated to reverse both the signs of intrinsic ageing (genetics) as well as extrinsic ageing (environmental).

Studies show that retinol significantly restores the structural integrity of the skin, accelerating cell turnover and renewal, stimulating collagen production, improving epidermal thickness and increasing elastin biosynthesis.

“The retinol molecule on its own, however, is chemically unstable, degrading with exposure to sunlight and air. So Dermalogica utilises microencapsulation technology to retain stability and maintain concentration levels. The encapsulation technology used in Overnight Retinol Repair also allows for a controlled release delivery system which enables the active retinol to penetrate deeply into the skin for optimum results.”

As part of Dermalogica’s AGE Smart line, Overnight Retinol Repair draws on several additional active ingredients that work together to reduce the appearance of ageing skin. These include Peptide Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 (PT-5) to boost collagen formation, treat wrinkles and firm skin; Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (stabilised Vitamin C) to support collagen

According to Babor South Africa national trainer Mariska Oberholster, the entire Skinovage Px range now contains Alpine Stem Cells.

“Skinovage is what we refer to as our intelligent premium skincare line,” comments Oberholster. “Alpine Stem Cells protect the skin cell DNA from damage caused by UV rays and free radicals, as a result premature ageing that is caused by light and environmental factors is broadly prevented.

“Then we have Champagne Pear Stem Cell Extract in our Spa Body Range. These stem cells also protect the skin from free radicals, UV Rays and premature ageing.”

Oberholster also notes that Babor products are full of peptides. “The ones that stand out for me are the peptides in the Mimical Control Cream.

These peptides mimic botulinum toxin by reducing the distribution of neurotransmitters, which are responsible for muscle contractions.

As such, the relaxation phases of the skin are increased. Existing expression lines are significantly alleviated.

“The Dr Babor Collagen Booster Cream is ideal for skin with pronounced lines and loss of elasticity. This cream restructures and plumps up the skin intensively from the inside and effectively reduces the appearance of lines and wrinkles. Collagen Booster Peptides restructure the network of collagen and elastin fibres to form a dense, even structure and thus increase the density and firmness of the skin, visibly and palpably. These peptides also protect the collagen and elastin fibres against enzymatic breakdown.”

Mésolift Marine French skincare brand Thalgo recently entered the cosmeceutical domain with the launch of the MCeutic brand,

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

based on the patented ingredient, Mésolift Marine, which mimics the effects of mesotherapy (the infusion of active ingredients into the skin via needles).

Mésolift Marine contains two B Vitamins, 14 nutrients, 18 amino acids, hyaluronic acid and a nucleoside.

Three grades of peel are offered by MCeutic, from 8% to 22.5% (salicylic acid, ascorbic acid, and malic acid).

MCeutic is suitable for treating uneven skin tone and texture, scarring or post-acne scars, pigmentation, enlarged pores, excess oil, localised recurring or occasional blemishes and thickened skin.

Times Six Sixth Intelligence from South African brand, Six Sensational Skincare, offers an advanced formulation for antiageing.

Says Six’s Marisa Dimitriadis: “Sixth Intelligence can be used as a night cream in the summer months and day and night cream in winter months. It contains the trademarked intelligent ingredient, Venuceane. This is a super anti-oxidant and provides extra protection to the skin.

“We have also included Macadamia Seed Oil in the formulation, to repair, soften and condition the skin. It prevents trans-epidermal water loss and results in a fresh-looking skin.”PB

online at www.probeauty.co.za

hair news

57

Crowning

glory

Tress-a-licious news from the hair front.

Fragrant locks

Strong roots ORS South Africa (formerly Organic Root Stimulator) has launched its ORS Hair Strengthening Argan Oil range.

It comprises a Fortifying Sheen Spray, No-lye Relaxer, Fortifying Hair Food, Hair Mayonnaise, Fortifying Hair Oil, Neutralising Shampoo, Fortifying Conditioner, Fortifying Hair Polisher and Crème Hair Relaxer.

011 661 6600

Defrizzing delight Inoar Thermoliss is a non-chemical thermo-active defrizzer. Its formula, which is infused with Argan oil, silk amino acids and Provitamin B5, penetrates and seals the hair’s surface, while enhancing the smooth effect and protecting it from styling tools. It is a great option for those who want smoother and frizz-free hair.

The Hair & Body Perfume by label.m is a non-drying hair fragrance suitable for all hair types. Infused with Argan oil, this contemporary scent combines a burst of sparkling citrus blossom with white florals. The luxurious glass bottle with bow detail comes encased in a metallic silver box.

021 448 8847

Keeping up with Kardashian hair The Black Seed Dry Oil from the Kardashian Beauty Hair range is a nutrient rich treatment and styling aid that rejuvenates and nourishes hair so it appears strong, thick, smooth and gloriously shiny. This ultra-light formula is easily absorbed and leaves no residue.

021 790 1669

012 346 1721

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

eye care

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Feast for the eyes Efficient care of the eye area equates to delicate care, as the skin around the eyes is thinner and more sensitive than that of the rest of the face, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

D

ark circles under the eyes, droopy lids, bags, puffiness, fine lines and wrinkles may all be present as the wages of age. As any qualified therapist will tell clients, extra care needs to be taken when choosing a skincare product for this area.

According to www.mediniche.com, products that contain gentle, nonirritating compounds which reduce the appearance of wrinkles, along with a wide range of vitamins, antioxidants, and skin-plumping substances, are ideal choices.

The website further advocates that, when choosing an eye care product, it is important that it be oil-free: “Products containing oil increase the likelihood of clogged glands around the eyes that can lead to sties and other ocular problems.

Contact lens wearers, in particular, should avoid products containing oil. The oil not only sticks to the lens, causing blurred vision, but can also

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

cause permanent staining. To minimise the potential for contamination, people should avoid products packaged in a manner that requires ‘dipping’ fingers into a jar.”

Ursula Hunt of DermaFix believes it is always best to choose products

online at www.probeauty.co.za

eye care

59 specifically formulated for the eye area.

“A prime concern for safe use around the eyes has to do with allergic skin types with sensitive eyes,” continues Hunt. “Some ingredients may be slightly irritating or ineffective.

Look for products that are specifically formulated to target specific concerns around the eyes, like fine lines, dark circles and puffiness.”

DermaFix CircleLight contains liposome-encapsulated peptides along with Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone and Dipeptide-2. These ingredients encourage lymphatic drainage around the eye area for the improvement of dark circles, bags and puffiness.

Says Hunt: “DermaFix Corrective Eye Complex utilises plant stem-cell technology with rice, soy proteins and soy peptides to preserve and maintain skin integrity and elasticity around the eye area. It noticeably improves the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, commonly known as ‘crow’s feet’.”

Gel at play Juliette Armand’s Skin Boosters Opsis Therapy Eye Brightening Gel is specifically designed for the sensitive eye contour area.

It visibly reduces black circles and swelling, while it moisturises, tones and refreshes the eye area.

Active ingredients include Eyeseryl, Aldavine, Multisal Salcool/ Chrysanthellum / Phytexcell Horse Chestnut, A-G Hesperidin and Bisabolol.

Lash focus Anesi has introduced the Eyelash Serum, which, until now, was only included exclusively in the professional Expression Ritual Coffret.

“Thanks to its great acceptance and proven results in terms of lengthening and adding volume to eyelashes, it is a great product to improve sales and customer satisfaction,” says Anesi distributor Dalize Havenga of Exclusive Beauty Solutions (EBS).

Ingredients include Simpeptide xlash, a bio-available lipo-aligopeptide and winner of several awards for its effect on keratin genes during the anagen phase. It increases the thickness and length of eyelashes.

Also included in the formulation are keratin peptides, which represent between 85% and 90% of the total weight of the hair, and are responsible for defending it against external aggression, maintaining the strength and integrity of the hair fibre. These hydrolysed peptides of marine origin act as rebuilders of the hair fibre, increasing the body and flexibility of lashes.

Eye opener Still on the subject of serums, RégimA’s Zone Eye Opener Serum Revolution Eyz is a deeply penetrating, multiaction advanced anti-ageing serum, created for use over the whole eye area, particularly beneficial for crêpey upper eyelids.

“This ultra-refined elixir from organic cactus soothes and calms irritated skin both short-and longterm, while hydrating, protecting and firming,” says RégimA’s Jacqui Faucitt.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

She points out that mineral-rich giant kelp algae provides antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, as well as smoothing and tightening. In addition, a triple action complex helps to decrease puffiness and darkened circles. It also firms and increases collagen and elastin synthesis.

“It is a high-potency combination for anti-ageing eye care, helping to improve the look of tired heavy eyes, achieving a more youthful appearance,” states Faucitt.

RégimA’s Zone New Expression-365 Under-Eye Fix utilises a plethora of the latest technologically advanced peptides, due to their specific benefits on the under-eye area. These include targeting and reducing crow’s feet wrinkles in density and depth with myo-relaxing action, offering rapid and reversible muscle and nerverelaxing effects, for safe application in the under-eye and crow’s feet area, where the use of injectable myorelaxors is restricted.

“Importantly this product also fades under-eye dark circles, decongesting and reducing puffiness, forming a continuous film with tensor effect, with replenishment and increased collagen synthesis. There is a gradual, continual release of actives into the skin, with an immediate lifting, eye contour-smoothing effect, offering 24-hour residual relaxing power. It also has a preventative as well as revitalising action, helping to delay the formation and deepening of expression wrinkles.” R

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Ultimate cream The Ultimate Perfecting Eye Cream from Doctor Babor is ideal for sensitive eyes, bags, puffiness and circles under the eyes. An ingredient called Actiflow stimulates the microcirculation and increases the flexibility of the capillaries, while an active complex of peptides, green beans and rutin inhibits the degradation of the extracellular matrix and increases synthesis of fibronectin and collagen. This firms and strengthens the tissue in the sensitive eye area, giving it a smoother and more relaxed appearance.

Hyaluronic acid has been added to the formulation to bind moisture in the skin. Packaging is in the form of a user-friendly roller applicator for use morning and evening.

The Babor Skinovage Anti-Wrinkle Eye Cream includes Alpine Stem Cells and OsmoTec. The former protects the skin cell DNA from UV damage and free radicals, while the latter improves the processing of active ingredients by creating an osmotic balance within the skin cells, which, in turn, favours the further processing of active ingredients in the cells.

Multivector Peptide activates the skin’s own production of hyaluronic acid so that moisture can be better bound to the skin. The skin around the eyes appears firm

and smooth, while hibiscus extract loosens micro-tensions in the skin and visibly reduces expression lines.

Exfoliation The Six Eye & Lip Soft Exfoliator is suitable for all skin types, and is a rich, super-hydrating peeling cream that gently exfoliates the most delicate eye and lip area, leaving the skin luminous, perfectly hydrated and silky smooth. Active ingredients include Super Moisturing Fruit Acid Complex, Peph-Ctive, Iricalmin and Pentavitn.

Also from Six is the Eye & Lip Mask, a nourishing treatment mask with anti-ageing properties to regenerate, hydrate and soften the eye and lip contour area.

Skin ecology Esse recently released its Eye Contour Cream as a part of the Esse Plus line launch, which focuses on probiotics and plant-based, anti-ageing actives new to skincare. The Eye Contour Cream incorporates Esse’s Biome Plus technology aimed at guiding skin ecology to an ideal state. It incorporates two primary actives specifically aimed at eye skin health and renewal.

Belides extract – most undereye pigmentation issues are caused by post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, particularly in darker skin. Belides acts on this by reducing the transfer rate of melanosomes from melanocytes to normal skin cells. Each melanocyte is in contact with approximately 36 skin cells and delivers melanosomes to all of them.

This is largely prevented, and a very

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

strong lightening effect is achieved on dark circles that are caused by pigmentation.

Albizia julibrissin extract lifts the upper eyelids, reduces crow’s feet wrinkles and diminishes puffiness. It has been shown to improve collagen synthesis by 256% and elastin synthesis by 256%, helping to prevent rupture of capillaries in the fragile networks below the eye. The product also improves the appearance of wrinkles around the eye by between 14% and 33% in two weeks.

Dermal delivery eyeSlices represents a global first in cryogel technology by harnessing an incredible dermal delivery system that slowly releases active ingredients and moisture into the skin.

Within just five minutes, these innovative, fresh, re-usable therapeutic eye treatment pads target puffiness, dark circles, tiredness, redness and signs of aging. The restorative properties go to work straight away, helping to soothe and cool the eye contours. PB

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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Nailing social media marketing With access to so many different social media channels nowadays, there is absolutely no excuse for nail salons and techs not to get the word out there, writes Sonette van Rensburg. R

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

nails

62 Nailing social media marketing

G

one are the days when we were solely reliant on flyers, posters or newspaper ads to market ourselves and our nail businesses.

Whether you are a salon, a selfemployed nail technician or a professional product supplier, social media marketing can and should have a very positive impact on you and your business. But it can also end up having a negative one, if not executed and followed through properly.

There is a lot of information and engagement which you can get through to your clients via social media, however be careful how you go about it. Engaging with your clients and getting the correct message across is going to be vitally important and so will what you do once you have jump-started a social media presence.

I would suggest that you do some research before you do and consider the following questions: Which social media platforms should you use and how many? How do you know which social media channels will suit your business?

What should you be blogging about or posting to benefit your business?

Where do you start and how?

Sally Harvey, owner of Edge Communications & Marketing, believes that it is really important to educate yourself with regards to social media marketing, before diving head first into a social media swimming pool and drowning.

“With umpteen different social media channels available such as Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, Snap Chat, Linked-In and blog sites, to mention a few. Knowing which ones are going to be right for you can be quite confusing and even daunting, especially when you don’t know much about them or where and how to get started.

“See what others have done in the same type of business as you and what type of social media channels are working best for them, and whether it has proven to be successful or not, judging by the responses they are getting. I believe it’s vital to focus

Search Engine Optimisation Another really important factor to consider is making sure that the blog posts you write and share are optimised for search engines, so that you aren’t just attracting any kind of visitors, but a specifically targeted audience, which you can convert into a potential client.

Be consistent and target the correct keywords and search phrases relating to your business. Although humour, fun phrases and tag lines are great and appeal to a lot of people, you need to remember that Google is not going to recognise their relevance, meaning that when someone you may want to target googles your key words, you’ll want your content to show up. If it’s not optimised for search engines, your content won’t show up. your attention on where you know your audience is going to be hanging out. Streamline your content and have a strategy in place; don’t just post content all over the place or else you will not achieve the success rate you expect. It’s all about what to post, how to post and when to post. Remember that over posting can cause your recipient to see it as spam and cause your company to loose social media followers", explains Harvey.

Creating and building your brand With the nail industry having become very competitive, it is vitally important to know and understand how to market yourself effectively by building your own personal brand to engage with your target audience. This also lets everyone know what business you are in. Personal branding is about focusing and building on what makes you unique and learning to use your talents to add value. It is important to assess your talents and know what your areas of expertise are, be they

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

nail art, nail enhancement application, natural nail care, product supply or education. Ensure that you hone in on that so that people can benefit from it.

Remember that first impressions are lasting impressions, so creating a good solid personal brand is what is going to make you stand out from the competition. Once you have done this you can take the next step, using the right social media marketing channels available to drive your brand and communicate your message to your audience. By building a good brand presence, you will build relationships, which in turn will help to build your business.

Communicating your brand Creativity is definitely an important factor when communicating your message, however keep logos, colours, tag lines, mission statements and messaging consistent, as this is how people will be able to identify and relate to your brand, especially if it is captivating and unique.

Be careful of posting the same old

online at www.probeauty.co.za

nails

63

unfortunately been used as a tool to criticise and post negativity about products, brands and even people.

When sharing your tweets and Facebook and blog posts, remember to space them out to ensure everyone in your target audience sees them. The weekends are a great time and sometimes the only time when people are able to catch up.

content day in and day out as it can get stale and boring.

Set up an editorial calendar and keep to it. Be original and creative and don’t copycat – it can and will reflect negatively on you should you get caught out.

Make sure your content is timely, accurate, thoughtful, unpredictable, informative and even funny; however don’t forget to keep it relevant.

Keep up to date with the latest happenings and events in your industry. Knowledge is power, so make yourself memorable. Educate people about yourself and what you do. The secret is to come up with fresh ideas and ways to achieve that on an ongoing basis.

Impact

Active engagement Yvette Nel, marketing manager for LCN, believes that to achieve success with social media marketing and for it to be effective, one needs to commit to daily activity on your salon page.

“If nothing is happening on your page, your page will generate nothing,” continues Nel. “It doesn’t really cost you money and it’s worth the effort.

Content can be anything from specials, ‘before and after’ transformations, nail art, product information – anything to create awareness about what you have to offer and your creative ability.

“It’s very important to know your chosen profession or product. Give the correct information to the client on home care like the do’s and don’ts, for example. This information can be used and included on small flyers or posts on social media so as to create awareness. Uninformed clients can have a negative effect on your business so always make sure you educate them about your products, what they do and how to use them effectively.”

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Blogging The best advice is to blog as often as you are able to, offering valuable and relevant information. Research shows that companies who have blogs get 55% more website traffic.

One thing with blog posts that you need to remember though, is that you will be giving away plenty of information, so you need to make sure you link it with a call to action.

For example, if you are posting tips and tricks on nail art, offer something related such as a nail art workshop or seminar.

Share information and comment on other posts and blogs of likeminded people in the industry, but be sure to keep your comments positive and professional. Social media has

The best way that you can measure whether social media is having the positive impact you expect it to have, is to monitor it.

With Facebook, for example, you can measure whether your posts are being effective by the reach you are getting, and seeing by means of a weekly report exactly how many people are viewing your posts, and most importantly whether they are commenting and sharing them. With Twitter you can see all this by the amount of followers you have.

If you are not able to manage the social media activity yourself, then it will be in your best interest to commission a company who could do that for you.

Participate in social media but make sure it works.PB

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the nail and beauty industry for 26 years.

She consults with salons and spas and trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail and beauty tehnology, basic salon skills, client relations and perfecting technical skills. Email: sonettevr@gmail.com or tel: 076 585 4191

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

products

64

In the market

Our round-up of newly launched products. r

With ESP’s new app, salon and spa clients can interact with their client record card in ESP via a tablet Android App. Add new client contact information, update existing client contact information and complete the beauty consultation card and/or hair consultation card using this new tool.

086 110 6203

Cheers!

r

App-pealing tool

Collagen Lift Paris is a daily collagen drink that is easily absorbed by the body and has been proven in clinical trials in Germany and France to increase collagen densities, reduce wrinkles by up to 50% and increase the skin’s elasticity and hydration. It is further enhanced with Mediterranean seaweed extract and Vitamin C. 086 111 1990

Triple whammy r Return of radiance

r

With its Rosee Soin-Radiance Replenishing Oil, Phytomer has created a dry oil that is both lightweight and comfortable. It replenishes, nourishes, moisturises and restores radiance to the skin.

Ingredients include Rose Oil, Gorse Oil, Jojoba Oil and D-Tox Microalgae Oil. 011 486 4904

Dermalogica’s newly reformulated Sheer Tint SPF20 offers three key functions in one versatile product.

It offers improved wearability with a more fluid texture that glides easily over skin.

The pigment blends, available in Light, Medium and Dark tones, have been calibrated to reflect global client feedback on colour compatibility.

011 268 0018

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za

medical aesthetics

65

Mid-facial

rejuvenation Advancements in our understanding of the anatomy and the pathophysiology of ageing have led to the development of multiple techniques to rejuvenate this area, writes Dr Gabriel Doucas.

T

he concept of addressing the ageing mid-face in aesthetic surgery is less than three decades old. There is now an increased aesthetic awareness of the three-dimensional changes in the curves and contours of the lower eyelids and the tissues of the cheek beneath them.

It is imperative to comprehend midface ptosis (descent) and volume loss in the overall morphology of facial ageing.

The specialist plastic surgeon or aesthetic physician, who believes mid-facial concerns can be addressed only by facelift surgical options, or through volumisation techniques of the nasolabial fold, the tear trough and cheek, must be very careful of the multifactorial processes at work. These changes are often the first ones that bring patients into the aesthetic surgeon’s office, and a complete understanding of all the R

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015

medical aesthetics

66 options open for correction in this region is a necessity for any practising aesthetic surgeon.

Anatomy and ageing A sound working knowledge of the bones, muscles, innervation, vasculature, retaining ligaments, fat deposits and skin of the face is the cornerstone to precise, reproducible and aesthetically pleasing rejuvenation results.

Anatomically, the mid-face is bordered superiorly by a horizontal line drawn from the medial to the lateral canthus and inferiorly by a line drawn from the inferior border of the tragal cartilage to the lateral edge of the oral commisure. It can be divided into anterior and lateral components by a line drawn from the lateral orbital rim to the lateral oral commisure. The midcheek refers to the triangular area of the anterior mid-face between the lower eyelid and nasolabial fold.

It is imperative to comprehend mid-face ptosis (descent) and volume loss in the overall morphology of facial ageing.

Supero-medially, the cheek abuts the nose. The lateral border of the midcheek is the point where it extends over the zygomatic arch.

Facial ageing is a multifactorial, three-dimensional process, with anatomic, biochemical and genetic influences.

Many exogenous (solar exposure, smoking, alcohol, medications, gravity) and endogenous

factors (body mass index, genetics, endocrine status) can significantly impact cutaneous and subcutaneous ageing.

The contour of the mid-face changes over time – starting as early as the middle of the fourth decade of life.

In youth: the mid-face is full, uniform and plump. The malar prominence is triangular in shape, with the apex at the junction of the maxilla and zygomatic bones – conveying a heart-shaped appearance.

With ageing: degenerative changes occur in nearly every anatomic component of the mid-face and include cranial bone remodelling, tissue descent, fat atrophy and deterioration in the condition and appearance of the skin. The mid-face deflates, leading to a double convexity of the cheek.

Treatment solutions As with most cosmetic concerns, the options available for the improvement, and even correction, of the mid-facial ageing battle can be divided into surgical and non-surgical solutions.

Each treatment option carries advantages and disadvantages.

The mid-face is an area of relative controversy. Many of the procedures that have been innovated over the past 20 years are complex and are associated with steep learning curves with serious, and often difficult to manage, complications. Some surgeons are sceptical of the longevity of the procedures designed to correct changes in this area. Additionally, it was noted that after surgery the patient’s face looked tighter, but not necessarily younger.

Surgical Trans-eyelid composite and subperiosteal approaches are designed to achieve the correct vertical vector of pull that achieves the best aesthetic rejuvenation results. These interventions require skill, expertise, experience and a welleducated patient willing to endure the inevitable downtime associated with them.

Of great importance has been the realisation of volume loss in ageing and volume replacement in cosmetic

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medical aesthetics

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surgery. As a result, it has become evident that by making small corrections to the mid-face, big changes are realised in the final result. Synergy results in the situation when the total is greater than the sum of the parts; this phenomenon is common with simple midfacial augmentation.

Mid-face augmentation The main advantage of implants is that they are a permanent option when compared with fillers and lifting procedures. The cheek mid-face implants lie in the subperiosteal plane, tight to the bone, and are not subject to the soft tissue changes of the more superficial planes.

They are available in a vast array of anatomical sizes and shapes to customise augmentation. They are easily placed; the recovery is minimal, and the complication rate is low. They can be performed as an individual procedure or part of other facial or non-facial aesthetic interventions.

The silicone structure (Silastic versus tissue integrated options) renders them very biocompatible and they are not subject to degradation seen with fillers and fat grafts. Very importantly, they are reversible.

Finally, with computer assisted design and/ or computer assisted manufacturing technology, customised facial implants can be fabricated to personalise the augmentation as well as to correct defects and asymmetries.

Fat transfer – autologous fat injection of the mid-face is a viable and lasting remedy for mid-face soft tissue loss and has become a mainstay in facial rejuvenation. This serves as either a stand-alone technique or as an adjunct to other restorative lifting and repositioning techniques depending on patient needs. Although the use of fat grafting carries the inherent concern for resorption and a need for additional augmentation in the future, correct technique

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and patient education can assist in better and more reliable graft take.

It is considered a fairly safe, easy and quick solution to mid-face ageing.

Non-surgical Injectable synthetic fillers are further subdivided into permanent and temporary fillers. It is strongly advised to steer away from the permanent products due to the potential for early and late complications that can have devastating consequences.

These soft tissue fillers are injected into the skin and/or subcutaneous tissues to help fill in facial wrinkles, restoring a smoother appearance and more youthful contours. The effect lasts for about six months or longer but for more successful results, it is important to have healthy skin, a skilful doctor administering the product, and, of course, the right type of filler.

Barbed sutures were initially promising and approved by the FDA for mid-face procedures but are no longer available for mid-face lifting.

Silhouette Sutures (Silhouette Lift, Corona, California) may reverse this and provide long-term success.

Polylactic Acid (PLA) is the principal component of these, and, it is biocompatible with human beings – also completely biodegradable. Once the suture has been applied, the PLA acts on the deeper layers of the skin and helps increase the volume of saggy areas, restoring shapeliness to the face, gradually and naturally. We

await long-term studies of patients treated with these devices and more clinical experience needs to be published.

Botulinum Toxin Type A (neurotoxin) is used to temporarily lessen the appearance of facial wrinkles, and, in this area the ones around the eyes – ‘crow’s feet’ lines.

Dermaceuticals – skincare products may not give volume but they can definitely offer skin rejuvenation that goes hand in hand with mid-face and overall facial rejuvenation. They contain antioxidants and other plant-based or natural treatments (alpha-hydroxy acid, salicylic acid and hyaluronic acid) that can counter free radicals that damage skin cell DNA.

Conclusion It is often said that if a problem has more than one technique or solution, that no one procedure works definitively. Despite the variety of techniques described, we do not feel this way about mid-facial rejuvenation.

Success in this area of the face can be attained with many different techniques combined or on their own.

There will no doubt be many other techniques, procedures, implantables, and devices in the future that will come and try to establish their dominance in mid-facial rejuvenation.

It is therefore imperative that we continue our careful scrutiny and cautious application of these for the safety of our patients. PB

Dr Gabriel Doucas MBChB (UFS), FC Plastic Surgery (SA) is a plastic and reconstructive surgeon based at Netcare Linksfield Hospital in Johannesburg. His areas of focus are cosmetic surgery, non-surgical aesthetics, skin lesion surgery, head & neck reconstruction and lipodystrophy-related surgery. He is a co-founder of Pure Aesthetics and a full member of APRSSA.

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Cidesco Section South Africa

Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta

A world of competition From 11 to 16 August 2015, Brazil played host to the 43rd Edition of the main professional education event in the world, the WorldSkills Competition, held at Anhembi Park in São Paulo. Menna Kleine reports.

I

t is with joy and happiness that I can announce that Roelene Groenewald, who was selected as the South African National Champion at the WorldSkills SA Competition held in Cape Town in January 2015, and who competed at the WorldSkills Competition as the South African Beauty Therapy Competitor, was awarded the Best of Nation Medal. She is now ranked number 13 in the world.

The Best of Nation Medal is awarded to the competitor who has obtained the highest marks or is selected by the nation’s Technical Delegate for their outstanding performance. Team South Africa was placed 27th overall out of 50 countries.

On behalf of WorldSkills South Africa and Roelene Groenewald, I would like to extend our sincerest thanks and appreciation to the sponsors and trainers, namely:

ITEC: Jane Foulston provided generous cash sponsorship to cover all unsponsored training materials, equipment, products, travel and accommodation for Roelene Groenewald and Menna Kleine.

Elaine Willemse provided expert preassessments of all basic skills.

Dermalogica SA: Provided a complete product range of professional skin and body treatment products. Annique Herbert and Lusinda Burch provided specialised product training at their Cape Town training facility.

Kryolan: SA: Neil Wilkinson provided

LEFT: Roelene Goenewald (South African competitor), Andrea Donoghue (Irish competitor), Tara O’Halloran Cronin (Irish expert) and Menna Kleine (South African expert). Both the South African and Irish competitors were sponsored by ITEC.

make-up products and equipment for practice and the competition.

Sparkle Nail Academy: Provided all the Morgan Taylor, Gellish and Harmony products and training for the Nail Technology and Nail Art Test Project.

The trainer was Elana Jooste, guided by Lucia Oosthuizen.

Isa Carstens Academy: Isabel Carstens Roos provided training facilities and staff. Zoya Nell, Amanda Schooling, Marelise Uys and the Isa trainers, students and clients assisted in completing the Facial and Body Therapy training, back-up training for the nail technology tasks and acted as training models.

Guilma Stander – Make-up Expert: Provided specialised make-up tasks (courtesy of Isa Carstens).

Lizna Nel – BN Academy (Regional Expert): Provided the Lomi Lomi massage training and assistance with the skills assessments.

As the appointed National Expert, I provided the expert assistance in skills assessment and WorldSkills training.

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The tremendous support each individual and entity gave us by providing our training team with the necessary funds, equipment and specialised training was exceptionally generous.

WorldSkills takes place every two years and every aspect of the competition is run along the lines that this is the Olympics of Skills.

Competitors must not be older than 22 years.

Competitors had to perform several modules during the competition, namely Facial Skin Treatments; Lash and Brow Tint; Spa – Body Treatment, Body Massage, Express Facial and Full Body Massage (Lomi Lomi Style); Spa Manicure and Pedicure; Evening make-up with artificial tips application and French gel polish; and Fantasy Make-up and Nail Art. Judging criteria were: professional attitude; client preparation; preparation and cleaning of workstation; and treatment execution.

For more information go to http:// www.worldskillssa.org/sao-paolo.html

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