Pro beauty march april web

March/April 2015

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Future watch What lies ahead

Zit Central Teenage skin

Nail newness Autumn / winter trends

Man, oh man!

Male grooming

Out of

(South) Africa Local brands that export

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In this

36 60 issue...

Regulars

Spa Focus

Features

5 Industry news

28 Spa trends for 2015

25 Rite of passage

Local and international news

54 Product news

All the latest launches

55 Hair news

What’s hot and happening in the hair industry

64 SAAHSP

The latest news from SAAHSP

Business 12 Insider Salon/Insider Spa

Your questions answered

16 Adventures in the beauty business

32 The science of life

Suntaluna Spa

Medical Aesthetics 60 Trending in aesthetics 2015

Body detox

36 Manly pursuits

Male grooming trends

41 Man alive!

Products targeted at men

45 Gateway to the world

Nails 56 Nail kaleidoscope

Treating teenage skin

35 Treatment review

What to expect this year

Autumn/Winter trends

Tracking the industry with stats

15 Ask the Experts

Keeping up with global trends

25

South African brands that export

62 Labour Relations in the Hairdressing, Cosmetology and Beauty Industry

The lowdown on the HCSBC and the EOHCB

Sorbet founder’s secrets to success

19 It’s all about sampling…

How to prompt sales by using samples

20 Environ rebrands

Big changes at leading skincare brand

23 The assignation of responsibility

EU cosmetic market’s ‘Responsible Person’

online at www.probeauty.co.za

28

41

Professional Beauty March/April 2015

Welcome

J

ust as this issue was being put together, the Professional Beauty Durban Show came and went, attracting well over 3600 visitors – an excellent result for a show of this size. And now, it’s full steam ahead for Professional Beauty Cape Town, which runs at the CTICC from 28 to 29 June.

In this issue you will find our annual focus on male grooming trends, which reveals that this sector of the beauty market is not only thriving, but steadily growing. The term ‘metrosexual,’ coined so many years ago, still holds strong and refers to those men who put a strong emphasis on personal care and grooming without fearing that their masculinity will be threatened.

We also include in this issue a crystal ball, as it were, in that we predict the 2015 trends in the spa and medical aesthetics sectors. This will be of particular interest to the owners of spas and medical aesthetics clinics who want to stay up to date with global trends.

In this issue you will find an exclusive interview with a true entrepreneur in the beauty industry – Ian Fuhr – founder of the Sorbet chain of beauty salons and Dry Bars. The article is centred on the valuable business tips that Fuhr reveals in his autobiography Get that feeling.

We are proud to present a really special feature on South African skin, body and eye care brands that are active in the international market.

When reading through this impressive section it’s impossible not to feel patriotic.

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

Subscribe 9 issues for R475 (RSA) To receive your copy of Professional Beauty call 011 781 5970

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Publisher Mark Moloney

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Managing Director Yolanda Knott

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Sales Executive - Classifieds Brenda Mzila 011 781 5970

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Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Ice Site Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970 | Fax: 011 781 6079

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The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/ or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher.

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industry news

5

News

All the news and views from the world of beauty and spa.

Butterworth to speak at International Spa Convention Chief spa and wellness officer for LUX Island resorts, Jeff Butterworth, will be one of the keynote speakers at this year’s International Spa Convention, which runs alongside the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Show on 30 and 31 August at Gallagher Estate in Midrand.

“This year we are getting more speakers to share a wider scope of information,” says International Spa Convention director Marisa Dimitriadis. “We are very lucky to have secured a speaker of Jeff Butterworth’s calibre. Jeff is in charge of the spas at eight resorts based in Mauritius, Maldives and Reunion Island. Previously Jeff oversaw development and implementation of the Jumeirah spa brand, Talise.”

Dimitriadis notes that there will be a big focus on social media in the 2015 International Spa Convention programme. She elaborates: “I’ve just been to an event that addressed business through the generations and we are currently in the middle of Generation Y, which is the social media and ‘touch of a button’ generation. So, in order for business to flourish in this time, social media is where we need to be. I am going to push the convention

LTI awards incentive winners

Mount Grace Country House & Spa is the winner of Lilian Terry International’s (LTI) Spa of the Year 2014 incentive programme, while LTI’s Therapist of the Year is Lebo Ramorapeli from Lebo’s House of Beauty in Limpopo.

Says LTI general manager Carli Argirova: “Nestled in the beautiful Magaliesberg, the spa at Mount Grace Country House is a true gem and we know that the whole team

online at www.probeauty.co.za

worked very hard Lebo Ramorapeli in order to win this award - congratulations!

“We are also thrilled about our Therapist of the Year for 2015. Lebo Ramorapeli is a warm, hardworking and talented therapist and we couldn’t be happier for her.”

In second place was Tanuja Harripersad from the Spa at Zebula and in third place Ria Potgieter of Laser.

Jeff Butterworth

through social media and highlight the importance of using it to grow spa/salon businesses.”

Other topics include: How offering real wellness solutions will boost your business; Daily staff management by use of Key Performance Indicators (KPI); Yielding in a spa – is it possible?

How to maximise revenues through understanding demand; and Creating a culture within your team to deliver only the best.

News in pictures

Thorsten Helmes (right) of Babor Germany recently visited Johannesburg for the launch of Babor’s anti-ageing range, ReVersive. With Helmes are Dirk and Lynn-Ann Fuchsloch of Babor South Africa.

Professional Beauty March/April 2015

Cal-Mo (Pty) Ltd.

industry news

7

Organic brand goes probiotic South Africa’s certified organic skincare brand Esse recently announced Biome+ technology – the result of more than five years of intense scientific study of the relationship between skin and the microbes living on its surface.

A

t a media function held on 30 January in Melrose, Johannesburg, Esse founder and CEO Trevor Steyn explained that Biome+ technology was inspired by the scientific findings of the Human Microbiome Project (HMP).

Said Steyn: “Microbes are an integral part of us, as without them we would die. Each of us is an ecosystem that includes 10 microbes for every human cell. Skin is an ecosystem and needs microbes to maintain peak health.”

He stressed that Esse has made giant scientific advances to work with these microbes, instead of against them.

House of An opens The Alila Professional Make-up-affiliated store, The House of An Image Emporium opened on 4 February at Greenstone Shopping Centre in Johannesburg.

Pictured is Neriké Botes who co-owns the store with Annelise Engelbrecht.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

News in brief ■ Babor SA’s awards incentive: As from March Babor SA introduced a rotating monthly awards programme to reward those spas and salons which are the most ‘Babor-like’.

Trevor Steyn “These advances include the incorporation of prebiotics (an available food source) to favour beneficial microbes, the use of mild preservatives, gentle surfactants, keeping pH optimum and the use of 100% natural fragrances,” continued Steyn. “This creates the perfect environment for probiotic supplementation. Restoring and maintaining this optimal balance of microbes works to improve the skin’s barrier function and to slow the ageing process.”

Steyn revealed that Esse has been under pressure to launch a premium skincare range, particularly from its foreign markets, and will do so later this year.

■ First MUD Studio in SA: Opening in April 2015, the MUD Studio will offer internationally accredited make-up courses from beauty to special effects and prosthetics.

■ New stockists for Juliette Armand Professional Skincare: Teremok Spa in KZN, Onrus Health & Beauty in Onrus and Tille Vista in Newcastle have taken on the brand.

■ Mama Mio/Mio spreads footprint: Onrus Health & Beauty in Onrus and Tille Vista in Newcastle now stock both Mama Mio and Mio Skincare, while Moyen Day Spa in Midstream Estate Johannesburg has become a stockist of Mio Skincare.

■ New premises for Infinity Skincare: The company has moved to The Business Centre at The Design Quarter in Fourways, Johannesburg.

■ Poised for success: Fleurette Du Rand has been promoted to marketing assistant at Poise Brands.

“We wish her much success in her new role,” says Poise Brands MD Janine Janse van Rensburg.

Professional Beauty March/April 2015

industry news

8

Salon chains reach milestones This year salon chains Placecol and Dream Nails Beauty celebrate their 35th and 30th birthdays respectively. Both brands are part of the Imbalie Beauty Group.

P

lacecol was founded by Elma Mckenzie in Ermelo, while Dream Nails Beauty was the brainchild of Nora Barnard. There are currently 30 Dream Nails Beauty salons in South Africa and more than 90 Placecol salons.

New manager for Arabella Spa Izak De Bruyn has been appointed spa manager at the Arabella Hotel & Spa (a Luxury African Pride Hotel) Izak De Bruyn in Hermanus.

African Pride is now part of the Marriott group.

De Bruyn started his career at Camelot at Spier as a massage therapist, before joining the Arabella Sheraton Grand Hotel (now Westin) as an opening team member. While there he started developing his career towards management, moving to senior therapist and, ultimately, front desk supervisor.

After four and a half years De Bruyn left to open the Spa at the Radisson (Waterfront).

“I was there for about six years and then took a year out to manage the salon at Pearl Valley Golf & Country Estate, before being afforded the fantastic opportunity to manage the Arabella Spa,” says De Bruyn.

According to Imbalie Beauty CEO Esna Colyn, the group decided to celebrate both the Placecol and Dream Nails Beauty birthdays in January, with celebrations continuing throughout the year.

Says Colyn: “The group is immensely grateful to reach these significant milestones and to live the dream of the original founders of these Proudly South African brands.

That dream is to help people to feel better about themselves, and to make a positive change in the world.

“We visited Elma Mckenzie in January 2015 at her spa in Ermelo, which she started 38 years ago."

News in pictures

Five South African companies exhibited at the recent Professional Beauty London show at ExCel under an umbrella stand coordinated by CECOSA. The companies,

Professional Beauty March/April 2015

which received funding from the Department of Trade & Industry, were Zinplex Marketing, Lilian Terry International, Soylites, Elim Spa and Marshalls Traditional Healthcare.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

industry news

10

Oyster Box Spa’s international triumph The Spa at The Oyster Box in Umhlanga, KwaZulu-Natal, has won the Hotel Spa of the Year – Africa category at the 2015 World Spa & Wellness Awards, which were announced on 22 February at The Brewery events venue in London.

O

ther finalists in the category were: The Spa at The Twelve Apostles (Cape Town, South Africa); Kaya Spa at Tribe Hotel (Nairobi, Kenya); and Kempinski The Spa at Villa Rosa Kempinski (Nairobi, Kenya).

Launched in 2012, the World Spa & Wellness Awards recognise excellence in spas around the world.

Says Jackie Armitage, spa manager at The Spa at The Oyster Box: “Winning this award is a great achievement; it is a prestigious

international award and we are very proud of that. We have entered this competition for three years, always believing that we had a good chance of winning. Our persistence and belief has paid off this time around.”

Armitage believes that besides being a ‘beautiful’ spa aesthetically, the fact that she and her therapists are very passionate about therapy, and ensure that they offer each guest an exceptional, high-quality personalised treatment, attracted the judges’ notice.

“I think our spa also stood out

HFS technology comes to SA In a first for South Africa, the Oron57 all-in-one solution, which is suitable for hair follicle simulation (HFS), permanent make-up technology and paramedical treatment, was launched in in mid-February by its inventor, Israel-based Moshe Alul, and local distributor, Sulé Loggenberg.

The underlying concept of the worldwide patented

Jackie Armitage receives the trophy from Professional Beauty’s Yolanda Knott

Oron57 involves tattooing the scalp with a roller fitted with a cluster of 56 needles to create the illusion of short hair follicles.

“By moving the roller on the scalp, tiny pigment points form which resemble hair follicles.

Oron57 is the only technology of its kind in the world,” stated Alul.

Sulé Loggenberg, Amor Vittone and Moshe Alul at the launch

because we are a hotel spa and an integral part of the amazing, awardwinning Oyster Box Hotel,” she adds.

The spa, a past winner of the South African Les Nouvelles Esthetiques Spa Award for Best Hotel Spa, is owned by The Tollman Family, who also own The Red Carnation Hotel Group, an awardwinning collection of five and four star family-run boutique hotels in London, Dorset, Guernsey, Geneva, Florida and South Africa.

New moves at Spa Consultants The Spa Consultants has made four new appointments: Ula Blom – marketing and admin manager.

Amanda Sibongile Mpabanga – accountant.

Isadora Wolfaardt – business development consultant for the Western Cape for the Six and Spalicious brands.

Tanya Beyers Tanya Beyers – business development consultant for South and East Gauteng.

LEFT TO RIGHT: Isadora Wolfaardt , Ula Blom and Sibongile Mpabanga

Professional Beauty March/April 2015

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business trends

12

Insider Insider, our exclusive business round-up, polled salons and spas in Johannesburg, Pretoria, Durban, Cape Town, East London and Port Elizabeth to track business in January 2015.

The month in numbers Insider Spa

Insider Salon

PERCENTAGE It was encouraging to find that well OF CLIENTS over half of salons polled reported WHO REBOOKED a definite increase in treatment business in January, compared to the same period last year, and that there was a fairly high treatment room occupancy average.

Only 15% of salons polled have realtime online booking facilities, while 10% are currently considering adding this AVERAGE TREATMENT facility to their salons. One salon ROOM reported that while they don’t do OCCUPANCY online bookings, they do have a mobile app which sends out messages to clients whose booking requests then go straight to the salon’s computer.

A lot of salons are keen to take on student therapists but have found that properly trained students with a good worth ethic are very difficult to source.

The percentage of salon owners or managers who read online beauty blogs and forums to help them stay up to date is only 35%. Many respondents said that would love to do so but just don’t have the time.

64% 70%

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN JANUARY 2015 COMPARE WITH JANUARY 2014?

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN JANUARY 2015 COMPARE WITH JANUARY 2014?

An overwhelming number of spas polled reported an increase in business in January over the same period last year, which bodes very well for the industry.

The percentage of clients who rebooked looks low but it’s important to remember that many of the spas polled are destination and/or hotel spas, so the majority of their clientele is transient.

Eighty-two percent of the spa managers or owners we spoke to read online blogs and forums to stay on top of international spa trends.

Only 33% of you have real-time online booking facilities at your spas.

PERCENTAGE OF CLIENTS WHO REBOOKED

38%

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN JANUARY 2015 COMPARE WITH JANUARY 2014?

85

% BETTER

7

% SAME

8

54

% WORSE

% BETTER

8

% SAME

65

% BETTER

15

50

% BETTER

38

AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY

% WORSE

15

% SAME

% SAME

20 % WORSE

35 % WORSE

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN JANUARY 2015 COMPARE WITH JANUARY 2014?

Professional Beauty March/April 2015

69%

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Average Pore Reduction : 42%

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This is the most prestigious and established awards ceremony for the beauty, spa and nail industry in South Africa, acknowledging those who have made a real difference to the industry.

Enter today!

You have what it takes to WIN! What are you waiting for?

• Therapist of the Year • Salon of the Year (3 rooms or less) • Salon of the Year (4 rooms or more) • Day Spa of the Year • Nail Salon of the Year • Spa/Salon Manager of the Year • Hotel/Resort Spa of the Year • Aesthetic Clinic of the Year

The deadline for all entries is 24 April 2015 ENTER ONLINE by simply visiting

www.probeauty.co.za and clicking on the ‘Awards’ tab.

The winners will be announced at the Professional Beauty Gala Dinner on 30 August 2015.

business tips

15

Ask the experts Our beauty industry experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.

How do I decide which hydrotherapy facilities to offer in my spa?

What supplements can I recommend to clients to help manage stress and fatigue?

F

irst and foremost, an individual needs to consider their lifestyle and why they have got themselves into a state of stress and depleted energy. This includes psychological stress (eg work, home), physical stress (eg exercise) and physiological stress (eg. immune, digestive imbalances and toxic burdens). It also includes dietary quality, quantity and suitability for your own genetics.

Supplements are many, but the best place to start is with a basic multi-nutrient plus adaptogenic herbs. These herbs include ginseng, rhodiola, aswagandha and maca, which can be found in single or combined products, plus powders that can be added to smoothies. Adaptogenic means that if your adrenal glands are over-working, the herb will soften their output, but if the adrenals are underperforming, they will pick them up. Beyond adaptogens are animal-derived adrenal glandular extracts - these are a bit more hard-core, but a good practitioner’s tool when the individual is in a very depleted state.

Ian Craig MSc, CSCS, INLPTA is an exercise physiologist, nutritional therapist, NLP practitioner and an endurance coach. He specialises in Functional Sports Nutrition and works for Exercise Solutions.

N

ot all hydrotherapy treatments are the same therefore the spa owner must consider various factors. A sauna and steamroom are standard and can be enhanced by chromotherapy and sound.

A spa should offer at least one special treatment that is a drawcard.

Consider the size and situation of the spa. For a hotel or conference centre hosting a large number of guests, rasul or healing clay steambath is a popular option. The chamber can be for two, four or six persons, while a smaller spa can offer a couple’s rasul.

A speciality is single or couple’s hydrotherapy baths featuring numerous water and air nozzles, sound wave massage and chromotherapy. Another speciality is the spa bed for weightless floating, which is suitable for various therapeutic and cosmetic body packs.

The Vichy shower, which increases blood circulation and purifies the skin, can be offered by small or large spas and can work in conjunction with the floating spa bed.

Knowing and understanding your market is a major factor when deciding what facilities to offer your clients.

Louise Melunsky is the Johannesburg sales manager of Wellness Fitness Africa, which started in 2003. The business has grown to include the planning, supply and installation of equipment in major hotel spas and day spas.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to joanna@probeauty.co.za

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty March/April 2015

business tips

16

Adventures in the beauty business In the space of 10 years, self-confessed serial entrepreneur Ian Fuhr has grown his Sorbet Group into a massive enterprise, comprising 117 franchised salons and six company-owned salons, writes Joanna Sterkowicz

T

he story of how Ian Fuhr founded and successfully developed the Sorbet nail and beauty group gained public traction late last year, with the publication of his autobiography, Get

that feeling.

Although the cover of the book is Sorbet-branded, only the second half is devoted to the Sorbet story.

Part one of the book is almost like reading an engagingly written history of apartheid – the story of how a young, privileged Jewish boy grew up and navigated his way through South Africa’s era of white supremacy. Fuhr’s progressive business strategies saw him initiate a number of entrepreneurial ventures, such as Super Mart, while his labour relations policies were considered left-wing at the time.

In an exclusive interview with Professional Beauty, Fuhr revealed that he’d always had a sense that he would write a book about his business life.

“Consequently, I kept a lot of material from my early days in business, so I was able to draw from that,” said Fuhr. “I believed that mine was an entrepreneurial story and that there were lessons I’d learnt that I wanted to share. It was also about leaving a family legacy for my kids – Courtney, Jade and Brent.”

Fuhr asked a journalist friend of his, David Williams, to guide him on how to structure the book. Realising that it would be impossible to write the book parttime, Fuhr retreated to his brother Rodney’s camp in Botswana’s Okavango Delta, and set aside ‘chunks’ of five days at a time in which to write.

“I would get up at 4am and write five chapters a day.

Then I would give the chapters to David to get his opinion. I took a break of three to four months in between the writing sessions and managed to finish the book in a year,” noted Fuhr.

Anyone who has ever written a book will know how difficult it is to try and get it published. And yet, Penguin South Africa agreed to publish Fuhr’s book after seeing only the first 10 chapters.

“The decision to brand the book as Sorbet was purely a marketing strategy, because I’m not a high-profile personality, so people don’t know who I am, but they do recognise the Sorbet brand.

“I get a lot of encouraging tweets about the book on Twitter, far more than I ever expected. The word that gets used a lot in describing the book is ‘inspirational’, which is obviously gratifying,” explained Fuhr.

Un-secret, secrets The Sorbet section of the book is jam-packed with valuable business insights, strategies and staffing policies, all based on Fuhr’s personal experience as well as hindsight.

When asked why he was not afraid of giving away the secrets to his success, Fuhr responded: “This is a question I get asked a lot. My answer is that in the 1990s I met a wonderful man called Bruce Copley from whom I learnt

Professional Beauty March/April 2015

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business tips

17 many valuable lessons. One of these was that you don’t need to protect your success – you need to share it.”

Business, business, business In the book Fuhr makes the point that it was clear to him at the beginning of the Sorbet journey in 2004 that he was competing against therapists who had become business people, many of whom did not necessarily have previous business training or experience.

“The spa industry was different, as most of the spas in South Africa at the time were attached to hotels and resorts, so I didn’t want to compete against them,” commented Fuhr.

Right from the outset Fuhr put the focus on retail. “I wanted to make Sorbet look like a retail store that offers treatments, not a salon that sells retail. By doing this we have been able to achieve a higher retail rate than the industry norm – namely

50%, whereas the average of salons is about 30%.”

As per Fuhr’s strategy, Sorbet operates by putting utmost emphasis on an important little acronym – TGE (Total Guest Experience).

Said Fuhr: “I do the induction training for all the new Sorbet franchisees. Part of the training is to understand that the TGE is made up of many functional and sensory experiences. One small thing, like a credit card machine not working, for example, can ruin the guest experience.”

Returns policy A unique feature of Sorbet is its returns policy. “I will never give up this policy,” stressed Fuhr. “We will literally take back anything, at any time, and either replace the item or refund the client. While it’s true that some people will inevitably abuse the policy, it’s a drop in the ocean in terms

of maintaining the credibility of the brand. Our motto has always been, ‘Brand first, profit second’.”

Fuhr describes the first few years of Sorbet’s history as ‘the dark years’.

“We were pumping so much of our own money into the company each month and not seeing results,” he continued. “I hoped that the brand would be up and running within two years, but it was closer to five years.

We had to open 22 stores before we saw the business turn around.”

At the end of the interview Fuhr revealed that he is planning to sell the six remaining company-owned Sorbet salons during 2015.

“We could never achieve the same level of performance from our own stores as the owner-operator stores, which have a strong personal motivation to succeed,” said Fuhr. “All of our franchises have experienced our brand as a customer before they became a franchisee.” PB

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business tips

19

It’s all about

sampling …

We all know the job of a therapist is not only to give the customer an amazing treatment but also to sell her (or him) a fabulous product.

Samples can play a big role in prompting sales, writes Debbie Merdjan.

T

herapists have to guide customers intelligently, professionally and dynamically, and ensure they sell the right products to the right person.

We want satisfied and delighted customers, but, just as importantly, we want a wealth of sales. Selling retail products is a huge part of our business and can be an ‘easy profit’, as well as giving you a customer for life.

Think about it. It takes 90 minutes to perform a facial treatment, but it can take five minutes to sell a product. That sale can generate up to 40% profit – a

lot more than the profit margin on some of our treatments.

Today, after a great massage, the customer will not just say ‘thank you’, she will say ‘thank you’, and then Tweet about it. During a pedicure, she’ll Instagram her toes. She will Facebook her facial.

So, how do you promote product sales, especially when there is so much choice out there? Samples!

If you give your customers fantastic samples, they will Facebook, Tweet, and Instagram them. And they will buy.

Sampling is such an effective means to make a sale but is often neglected and not enforced correctly. And yet a free product sample can turn an ordinary client into a raving fan.

Make it work

Survey results A recent Product Sampling Council survey confirmed the following:

92%

of consumers say they will buy a new product if they liked the sample.

64%

of consumers try the product after receiving a sample.

60%

of consumers become aware of new products through samples.

35% 24%

of those who try the product buy the product – the same day.

24% of the ‘day-of’ purchasers buy the product in place of another.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

So, how do you make sure the sampling works? By having enough product samples to be useful, or to give the customer more than one sample to take away.

Make sure your samples look good – presentation is everything – and instructions should be clear and concise.

Make it easy for the client to purchase the product.

To track the success of your samples, have a programme that follows the samples you recommend. Follow up samples telephonically or electronically and investigate sample conversion to sales.

Samples as reward Remember that a client should not have to go for a treatment to receive a sample. Follow today’s online trends and offer samples as a reward for subscribing to your newsletter, liking your Facebook page, for leaving a review or referring a new customer.

So, get your samples out there and track their performance. They will increase your sales, and it’s a winwin for all parties – the consumer, the brand and the retailer.

Go forth and sell. And sample! PB

Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the Camelot Group - encompassing health & skin care training. She has been in the industry since 1982 and started Camelot International Health & Skin Care Education in 1987, and opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997.

Professional Beauty March/April 2015

business

20

Environ rebrands The internalisation of its South African distribution, the launch of a revolutionary skincare product and the introduction of a therapist incentive scheme all form part of Environ’s rebranding process, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

I

n its biggest product launch in five years, Environ introduced Gauteng stockists and media to its Intensive Revival Masque on 25 February, at a glamorous event held at Katy’s Palace Bar in Sandton.

Environ founders, leading aesthetic surgeon Dr Des Fernandes and Val Carstens, were on hand to launch the product, which was some four years in development.

Dr Fernandes described the Intensive Revival Masque as the first step in his mission to make a skincare product that would be like ‘a facelift in a bottle’ and spoke about what is believed to be the biggest clinical trial in history for a cosmetic product.

“We tested the Revival Masque on a hundred people and received a 98% approval rating for the product – only two test subjects did not like the product. The Environ team embarked on this study to find out who would use the product, who liked it, and who showed the best results.”

Intensive Revival Masque, which has already been released in Environ’s multiple international markets, recently received the Woman & Home ‘Best of Beauty’ award for Best Masque.

Incentive scheme At the launch, Environ Distribution SA GM, Wayne La Grange, introduced a new Therapist Incentive Scheme – believed to be the richest in South Africa – to stockists.

Included in the scheme are international trips to world-class destinations for winning therapists.

La Grange paid tribute to all the therapists in salons that stock Environ. He said: “Environ is here because of what you do. We

ABOVE LEFT: Dr Des Fernandes and Val Carstens with the Woman & Home ‘Best of Beauty’ award ABOVE RIGHT: Wayne La Grange LEFT: The Intensive Revival Masque launch

are a salon brand only. I thank you, the therapists, for being loyal to the brand; it’s now time for Environ to give back through our new incentive scheme.

“And, that’s not all – stockists can expect many more exciting Environ announcements during the course of this year, such as the launch of the Annual Art of Beauty Awards and the introduction of our Ambassador Programme.”

He also referred to the fact that Environ had undergone major changes since March last year, when it created the Environ Distribution SA company. Prior to that Environ’s local distribution was handled by a network of nine independent distributors.

“Everything at Environ has changed, except what is in our bottles,” concluded La Grange.

Environ celebrates its 25th birthday on 12 December this year. PB

Professional Beauty March/April 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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business tips

23

The assignation of responsibility Continuing our series on what to know when breaking into the EU cosmetic market, Tadej Feregotto examines the concept of the EU Responsible Person.

T

he EU regulation 1223/2009 that came into force in 2013 established the notion of a Responsible Person (RP) for cosmetic products placed on the EU market.

Only cosmetic products that have an RP can be placed on the EU market. Furthermore, there can only be one RP per product for the whole of the EU and their name and address have to appear on the product label.

Tasks The primary task of the RP is to ensure compliance of the cosmetic product placed on the market with the EU cosmetics regulation. More specifically, the RP has to ensure compliance of the product with no less than 16 different articles from the regulation. Among these, the RP has to ensure that the product is produced according to the relevant GMP (Good Manufacturing Practices) standard; that the safety assessment has been carried out; that the PIF (Product Information File) for the product is compiled and is compliant with the regulation; that no animal testing has been performed; and they must also ensure compliance with the articles on sampling and analysis and restricted substances.

In addition, the RP has to perform the notification to the CPNP (Cosmetic Products Notification Portal); ensure that the product labels are according to the regulation and that the claims made are substantiated; provide access to the information for the public (if necessary); and communicate any undesirable or serious undesirable effects to the competent authorities.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Contact point The RP acts as the contact point for any EU competent authorities (usually different ministries of health) and has to keep the PIF file at the address specified on the labels. In case of any non-conformity, the RP has to take appropriate measures, including product recall from the market or taking any corrective action to bring the product into conformity. On request of the competent authorities, the RP has to cooperate with them to eliminate any risk posed by the cosmetic product.

According to the regulation, the RP can be any legal or natural person who is based within the EU. If the manufacturer is from the EU, they usually act as the RP themselves. Cosmetics manufacturers from outside of the EU can’t act as the RP themselves, unless they also have a branch in the EU. They can either appoint their importer or a distributor as the RP, which is not recommended, since the RP has to keep the product information file and all the product secrets with it; or they can appoint a third person or a company (such as CE.way) to act as the RP. This person or company must accept this role in writing. PB

Tadej Feregotto is CEO of CE.way Regulatory Consultants Ltd., a company that specialises in EU regulatory consulting for cosmetic products.

Professional Beauty March/April 2015

www.sixskincare.com • info@sixskincare.com • 011 312 7840

teen skin

25

Rite of passage

It is estimated that 90% of adolescents around the world suffer from instances of acne at some time or other during the teen years, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

E

xcess oil, inflammation with blackheads (comedones), pimples (papules), pustules and occasionally nodules, are the most common teenage skin problems, according to Helene Bramwell of The Mask Skin & Body Clinic in Parkview, Johannesburg.

“Teens are subject to the vicious cycle that results from the prevalence of androgens during puberty. Androgens can cause an excess of sebum, coupled with the rapid turnover of dead skin cells at this age. To make matters worse, teens’ hormone levels fluctuate greatly,” explains Bramwell.

Ingredients most suited to teenage skin are salicylic acid (or beta hydroxy acid), retinol (Vitamin A), calamine lotion and anti-oxidants (usually in gels) and a light, water-soluble, mineral sunscreen.

“Alcohol-based products mess with the protective barrier of the skin, which is already compromised,” says Bramwell. “They might kill the offending bacteria but they also delay healing. Teens love alcohol as a skincare ingredient because it removes the oil from their skin, making the pores seem smaller. However, the lower skin layers then receive a message that the surface is denuded and so more oil is uploaded.”

If the teen’s acne is really full-blown then antibiotics are necessary. Bramwell continues: “Roaccutane is highdose Vitamin A and will only thin the skin if used over

online at www.probeauty.co.za

an extended period. It can be used to great effect by the right doctor who knows the product well and does regular check-ups.”

She always advises teens to wash their hands way more regularly than they do, change their pillow cases often and to use disposable towels after cleansing to dry the skin instead of bath towels.

“Teens should not touch or pick their skins and should wash their hair often and keep it off the face. Exercise and lots of water is also advised. Anti-bacterial scalp cosmeceuticals should be encouraged to control seboric activity and dandruff and hair gels should be avoided,” concludes Bramwell.

Teen range Last year Dermalogica launched Clear Start, a skincare line comprising nine products for teens and young adults to both prevent and treat symptoms of mild to moderate acne.

The key ingredient of the Clear Start Breakout Clearing Foaming Wash is salicylic acid. This product incorporates eight botanicals including tea tree, lavender and camellia, which are known to wash away dead skin cells, dirt and excess oils.

Blackhead Clearing Pore Control Scrub contains gentle microbead technology to deep-clean pores and blackheads, leaving skin clear and smooth.

The mist-all-over Breakout Clearing All Over Toner R

Professional Beauty March/April 2015

teen skin

Pics: RégimA

26

“When treating full-blown acne the most critical ingredients to look for are anti-inflammatories in high concentration.” Jacqui Faucitt controls excess oils and helps to eliminate breakouts, while Breakout Clearing Daytime Treatment is a daily, lightweight moisturiser and powerful pimple treatment in one.

Other products in the Clear Start range include Oil Clearing Matte Moisturiser SPF15, Breakout Clearing Emergency Spot Fix, Breakout Clearing Cooling Masque, Breakout Clearing Overnight Treatment and Breakout Clearing Kit.

The ‘zit free zone’ Jacqui Faucitt of RégimA believes that people often think of acned skin as being dirty so they scrub it, thus exacerbating the problem.

“When treating full-blown acne the most critical ingredients to look for are anti-inflammatories in high concentration,” says Faucitt. “By reducing inflammation you reduce the swelling, redness and feeling of heat on the skin.

“Another major factor is how to kill bacteria without destroying normal tissue. Repairing is essential to prevent scarring. Regular exfoliation must be via natural ingredients, not abrasives.”

She notes that the natural AHAs

(alpha hydroxyl acids) in the in-salon RégimA Zone Power Peels are very effective when combined with healing plants such as centella asiatica.

“The Power Peel is a short five- to 15-minute peel providing rapid clearing and clarifying of the skin. For home care RégimA Zone Techno-5 Resurfacer has proved to work really well on oily, problematic skins.

“When the skin is terribly inflamed, pustular and scarred, then RégimA Zone Scar Repair Forté Super Strength Serum is a must. Teens should use the RégimA Derma Zest Cleansing + Toning Gel twice daily,” says Faucitt.

Therapeutic action An antiseptic lotion with a specific anti-acne therapeutic action, Juliette Armand Clarifying Lotion contains azelaic acid and salicylic acid to inhibit the development of propionibacterium acnes, responsible for acne.

It also contains mimosa and the ingredient Canadian willow herb to inhibit the action of the acne bacterium. The lotion combats excessive sebum secretion, removes excess skin oiliness and shine and has a strong germicidal action.

The Juliette Armand Clarifying Stick has high contents of active ingredients for effective

Professional Beauty March/April 2015

local use on pimples.

It has immediate and drastic results on spots and pimples, by inhibiting their development into inflammation.

A specific therapeutic cream for acne-prone skin, Juliette Armand Clarity Therapy Cream contains active ingredients which instantly reduce and regulate sebum secretion and oiliness, without drying the skin.

Prescriptive solution The MD Prescriptives Acne Solution with Niacinamide (also known as Vitamin B3 or nicotinamide) helps to target the treatment of acne by acting as an anti-inflammatory.

“This anti-inflammatory action assists to reduce redness, irritation and dryness. Niacinamide has a keratolytic action and suppresses the amount of oil or sebum that the glands secrete, thereby reducing the formation of blackheads, whiteheads and clogged pores,” states MD Prescriptives’ Ursula Hunt.

Ingredients include propanediol, glycerine, xanthan gum, glyceryl stearate, sucrose stearate and ethylhexyl palmitate.

Hunt advises protecting the skin with MD Prescriptives’ SPF50 High Protection UVA / UVB Sunscreen. This product also contains niacinamide to inhibit the transfer of melanin-containing melansomes to the outer layers of skin, helping to prevent the formation of hyperpigmentation.

Oil control Coverderm has a skincare routine that focuses on regulating oiliness.

The Removing Cream is a waterproof make-up remover and deep cleanser that doesn’t stimulate sebum production and cleanses the pores to prevent breakouts.

A gentle exfoliator that contains jojoba microspheres, Coverderm Luminous Exfolia has perfectly round spheres that don’t cut the skin. It ensures a gentle removal of dead skin cells that can lead to clogged pores. PB

online at www.probeauty.co.za

me e t Dermalogica was founded by a skin care therapist, for skin care therapists, so we are 100% dedicated to helping you succeed.

See what our leading professional products, proven business concepts and exceptional education facilities can do for you and your business!

“I can describe Dermalogica in one word: ‘perfection’.

It has been m y s k i n c a r e b r a n d o f c h o i c e f o r m y s a l o n ( a n d m y s e l f ! ) f o r more than 20 year s . M y c l i e n t s c a n r e l y o n e x p e r t l y t r a i n e d p r o f e s s i o n a l t h e r a pists to add value to t h e i r s k i n c a r e r o u t i n e , h e l p i n g t h e m t o p e r f e c t t h e i r c o m p l exions while improv i n g t h e i r c o n f i d e n c e . T h e D e r m a l I n s t i t u t e i n S o u t h A f r i c a i s one of the best e d u c a t i o n a n d t r a i n i n g c e n t r e s i n t h e b u s i n e s s . I a m p r o u d t o be a Dermalogica stockist!”

Mi s h k a h M o o s a , o w n e r T i m e l e s s B e a u t y , Gaborone Botswana

“Derm a l o g i c a i s m y b r a n d o f s k i n c a r e , both i n a n d o u t o f t h e t r e a t m e n t r o o m .

I t h a s been for years and always wi l l b e . I c a n n o t a n d w i l l not live without i t ! ” G e n evieve Coetzee, owner S a l o n S e d o n a , KZ N

“Dermalogica over delivers every time.

I couldn’t have c h o s e n a b r a n d w i t h h i g h e r q u a l i t y v a l u e s a n d o u t s t a n d i n g e d ucation” L u t f i y a A l l y , o w n e r S k i n s a t i o n , KZ N

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Join the D e r m a l o g i c a t r i b e t o d a y. J o i n u s a s w e strive to lead the professional skin care industr y into t h e f u t u r e .

@dermalogicasa

dermalogica south africa

dermalogicasa

011 268 0018

Salesadmin@dermalogica.co.za | www.dermalogica.co.za

spa focus

28

Spa trends for 2015 Today’s consumer has so much choice and information available at the click of a button that if spa owners are not staying up to date with current trends, they won’t experience growth, writes Marisa Dimitriadis.

T

he theme that prevailed in the South African spa industry in 2014 was ‘challenging’. It became evident during the year that the marketplace showed a definite pattern, in that focused and determined salons and spas showed growth, while others either closed their doors or did not grow at all.

With this in mind let’s have a look at what 2015 has in store for us in terms of trends.

Massage, massage, massage Massage has always been the most popular spa treatment, but, going forward, spas will have to find innovative massage techniques or tools to enhance the experience, or they will lose guests to another spa.

The easiest and most effective way to keep your client loyal forever will be to ensure that all of their treatments have some form of massage included. Touch is your tool, so you use it wisely.

‘Sparties’ We cannot ignore Generation Z, which in South Africa influences 83% of their parents’ buying decisions (globally this percentage is 52%). So, make a kid-friendly space in your spa and ensure that you are able to cater for little girls with suitable spa treatments while the mommy goes ahead and ‘spas’. The key here is to give the kids what they want: pretty painted nails, make-up, milkshakes, cucumber on the eyes, face masks and lots of pictures to show off.

Loyalty points The largest currency in the spa industry globally at the moment is loyalty points. Find a way to either join with an existing and strong rewards programme or create your own. Keep it simple and honour the rewards, but make sure you are rewarding the loyal and regular guests.

Professional Beauty March/April 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za

spa focus

29

Machines are back Machine-based treatments, especially hair removal and skin rejuvenation, are back and in demand more than ever before. The difference today is that the consumer is educated and informed about these treatments and won’t be baffled by fancy claims and huge bills. They are willing to pay but now know what results to expect. Prepare your business for this.

Silence is rejuvenating Insist on combining some form of silent time into treatments. Silence is rare in today’s fast-paced modern society so promote it as part of treatments, even if only for two minutes in order to give the brain and body a very quick boost of energy and vitality.

Inform the guest of the reasons for the silence and how you would like them to think of nothing, and go to a blank space where they do not allow any thinking to take place and just focus on blankness. Watch how they feel after only two minutes of this.

Totally body wellness The consumer is now more than ever before concerned and focused on wellbeing from within and out.

Partner with specialists in different fields to offer your guests solutions for skin and body wellbeing, fitness and nutrition. This does not mean necessarily from your premises, but partner up with specialists and offer a total wellness package where three different partners can offer the same services, therefore tripling your exposure. The consumer will want skin and body wellbeing, fitness and nutrition covered, so be the one to offer them the best solution.

Work place vitality As a spa-owner or manager, reducing employee stress levels and absenteeism and increasing productivity R

Professional Beauty March/April 2015

spa focus

30 are what every workforce needs. This trend goes hand in hand with the total body wellness trend, so, if you partner here with specialists in this field and present a total solution for the workplace, you will get buy-in from your staff.

Add-on menu Easy, simple and affordable add-ons to treatments are definitely trending for 2015. So add back exfoliation on to a back massage or add a mask to exfoliation. For pedicures you can add either a foot peel or a foot mask. In terms of facials you can add an eye mask or an Indian head massage.

However, add-ons need to be done correctly.

You need to have a proper add-on menu – a simple one-pager. Staff should be trained to offer add-on options automatically to guests when they book.

Service excellence Good service is not good enough anymore.

If your level of service is not excellent, your customer will not stay. In order for your service levels to be excellent your entire business needs to run on a strict set of standard operating procedures (SOPs) so that there are no loopholes in the service delivery.

You would also do well to implement mystery guest evaluations with written feedback at least twice a month, as well as keeping your therapists trained in all aspects of the industry.

Keep their fire burning and help them always strive to be the best.

Support a cause Guests will support you when you support a cause and drive it. For example, this cause could be a ‘reduce electricity consumption cause’ or ‘collecting nappies and formula for an orphanage for a month’ cause or absolutely any other worthy cause you can possibly think of.

Value for money

Genuine interest/relationship Rapport and relationships are going to be the name of the game this year. People want more love, they want to be appreciated, they want to feel special and recognised in your business. So the focus needs to be on developing relationships.

Find interesting ways to appreciate your clients and focus on nurturing them. Treat a client as a friend in your home and watch the referrals and repeat business flow in.

This does not mean that the consumer wants to pay less or wants bigger discounts and better deals. Absolutely not. What it does mean is an opportunity for every single salon and spa to analyse their business and evaluate whether their offering is value for money.

Basically this means the consumer will be happy to pay your rate for the service delivered and perceive that they are getting more than they are paying for. What this does not mean is that the consumer will be happy to pay a reduced rate for an average pedicure. The consumer is happy to pay more, but you need to ensure that they receive the perceived value in return. PB

Marisa Dimitriadis is founder and owner of The Spa Consultants.

E-mail her on marisa@ thespaconsultants.co.za for more information.

Professional Beauty March/April 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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spa focus

32

The science of life Focused on restoring the sensory, physical and spiritual balance of its guests, the Suntaluna Spa and Wellness Centre in Pretoria West delivers traditional, organic and Ayurvedic therapies, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

A

s befitting a destination spa, the Suntaluna Spa and Wellness Centre is located within a tranquil and picturesque location at the nt’ShonaLanga Valley Resort on the banks of the Hennops River.

According to spa owner Hanita Muthray, the resort boasts 15 luxury traditional African mud hut chalets that were designed with Feng Shui and Vastu Shastra principles top of mind.

She continues: “The resort was founded and developed by my father, Krishna Muthray, in 1999.

In April last year we opened Suntaluna Spa, which is based on alternate healing and modern scientific systems. Both my father and I have a strong belief in natural healing. I grew up with this belief system and am a practitioner in the use of yoga for wellness.

“Suntaluna offers guests specialist consultation and pampering treatments, overseen by an Ayurvedic doctor and a physiotherapist.”

Ayurveda is an ancient system of healing from India and means ‘the science of life’. It is based on the belief that health and wellness depend on a delicate balance between the mind, body and spirit.

Muthray elaborates: “Health is harmony within oneself and with one’s environment. To cure is to reestablish this harmony. We have specific wellness packages that are designed by our Ayurvedic doctor according to each guest’s Dosha constitution.”

Figure eight A unique design feature of the spa is its octagonal shape.

“We chose this shape as it is said to balance the Yin and Yang energies,” explains Muthray. “The spa décor is simple and uncluttered, which allows guests to appreciate the feeling of openness.

“We have also incorporated natural rock – the Elephant or Pelindaba rock – into the spa landscape.

In fact, the rock forms the backdrop for the pools.

This is significant as rock has a healing energy.”

Signatures One of Suntaluna’s signature treatments is the Cranio Dara treatment, based on the Indian Shirodara treatment. Warm oil is poured over the forehead (over the third eye centre), as the guest lies on a wooden table.

The spa’s Foot Ritual starts with reflexology of the feet and ends with a massage to the hip.

Muthra explains the inspiration behind the treatments: “We conducted a lot of research and then, together with the help of our Ayurvedic doctor and the expertise of a physiotherapist, the signature treatments were created.

“Our Rasayana (rejuvenation) packages consist of different types of massage techniques, specific combinations of oils and essential oils or herbs, lifestyle coaching, nutritional guidance and yoga to assist guests in finding their balance.

Professional Beauty March/April 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za

spa focus

33 Spa at a glance Opened: April 2013 Owner: Hanita Muthray Size: 500m2 Number of treatment rooms: 9 Hydro facilities: Sauna, Caldarium (steam room), cold water pools Full-time therapists: 4 Brands: Thalgo’s Terr & Mer, Cspa, Mantra

“The practice of pranayama – the simple act of breathing correctly – helps to control emotions and reduce stress. During their stay, guests are introduced to healthy, tasty and nutritious health drinks and food. These are designed to reduce stress levels and detoxify the system, improving immunity and the balancing of the chakras.”

Mauritian range A lot of effort was put into sourcing Ayurvedic products before Muthray came across the Mantra Authentic Ayurveda range from Mauritius.

“The Mantra range of 100% natural salon quality spa and facial care consists of products that go beyond just body care – they bestow complete wellness

Before

and lasting beauty from within.

Mantra is led by a team of dedicated professionals with over 25 years of extensive co-operation between its team of botanists, cosmetologists and Ayurvedic doctors.

Their formulations have been tested extensively through volunteer groups and clinical trials, never on animals,” she says. PB

After

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treatment review - detoxing

35

Goodbye to toxins On a mission to detoxify, Joanna Sterkowicz decides to experience Juliette Armand’s Detox Therapy from the Elements range.

M

eghan Less, training manager at Poise Brands, the exclusive South African distributor of Juliette Armand, pointed out that while mine was to be a standalone detoxifying treatment, Detox Therapy can be used as the preliminary stage in all Juliette Armand body treatments.

Said Less: “Body Detox has a detoxifying and decongestive action. It also enhances tissue microcirculation, which, in turn, activates cellular metabolism and better substance exchange. In this way toxins are excreted while active ingredients are absorbed.”

Less stressed that this treatment enhances the results of slimming treatments and can be done anywhere on the body, such as the thighs, butt and abdomen. In my case I opted for the abdomen as I seem to have a perennially protruding gut.

This four-part treatment commenced with the application of the Detoxifing Peeling Gel, which contains beta hydroxy acid to get rid of dead skin cells and increase the penetration of active ingredients. Less ‘painted’ the gel onto my abdomen with a brush and it felt cool on application.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Straight afterwards and without removing the gel, Less rubbed the Thermoslim Gel onto the area with a massaging movement to stimulate the colon and form ‘an invisible corset’ around the waist.

“Thermoslim stimulates tissue microcirculation, decongests the tissues and triggers the fat-burning process,” explained Less, “It induces hyperemia so you should experience a sensation of heat.”

My abdomen did indeed start to feel warm but pleasantly so. The Thermoslim stayed on for five minutes and I could see parts of my abdomen go slightly red as a result of the hyperemia.

Next Less mixed the Fykia Powder – a combination of algae and iodine – together with water to form a brown, mud-like paste. She applied it onto my abdomen and wrapped the area in a plastic sheet for 20 minutes, during which time she performed a hand and arm massage.

Once the Fykia Powder had been removed, Less embarked on the last stage of the treatment – the application of the Liposlim Massage Cream, again with massaging movements to aid decongestion.

“If you are doing Detox Therapy as a single treatment, then we recommend a course of six sessions, one every 10 days,” stated Less.

Post-treatment my abdomen area felt tingly and stimulated and my stomach seemed a little flatter than before. This is the sort of treatment I would definitely want to repeat. PB

Contact: Poise Brands 011 033 0500

Professional Beauty March/April 2015

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Manly pursuits Male grooming continues to be on the rise in South Africa as more and more men take to salons, spas and aesthetic clinics for facial, body and hair removal treatments, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

A

ccording to Datamonitor Consumer’s Q4 global survey 2014, 48% of men globally think that beauty and grooming products improve their overall appearance.

The survey further reports that African men now want to look their best as well as women, and that this interest is not only driven by global male-grooming trends but also by the sustained economic growth in the continent, giving men greater disposable income.

Gunther Dippenaar, MD and senior aesthetic therapist of the Sprout Medical Aesthetics Clinic in Johannesburg, says that it has been incredible to watch the evolution of male grooming over the last 15 years.

“Originally men were very secretive about their grooming regimes – this is not something they would discuss while standing around the braai – but, thanks to the rise of the David Beckham metrosexual era, things have balanced out, and we are now at a point where men have evolved to what I like to call ‘healthy grooming’. This is where a man has invested in grooming treatments (eg ears, nose, back and intimate area) but still has his masculinity intact,” comments Dippenaar.

Most of Dippenaar’s male clients fall in the 30 to 40 age category, but the younger 20 to 29 market is growing rapidly, with clients recognising the benefits of preventative ageing programmes.

“We are very blessed to have a 50/50 split between our male and female clients, with male clients spending up to 75% more per docket on grooming and laser hair removal.

Our male clients are more likely to replenish their home care products than females,” he notes.

Tailor-made More and more spas and salons are creating menus specifically for men and designing treatments accordingly.

Says spa manager Elizabeth Baker of The Fancourt Spa in George: “One of my goals is to tailor spa experiences exclusively for men that are a natural extension of the outdoor activities we offer. The new Muscle Beach Massage from the ‘Mens Rituals’ section on the spa menu is a case in point. It’s tailored to providing the male body with exactly the right attention it deserves after an intense workout, whether on our golf courses, the tennis court or after a stint of mountain biking.”

Salon views Some 1700 clients have been through the doors of the first-ever Sorbet Man salon, which opened in Sandton City on 1 September last year.

Says store manager Derek Lloyd: “In terms of average age of our clientele, we are well represented in all age groups, including school-going laaities. The majority of spend comes from the 25 to 35 age group.”

He notes the store’s hot-towel razor shave is proving very popular as both a functional service and worthwhile indulgence, because of the closeness of the shave and the post-shave benefits.

“One of our biggest revelations has been the willingness

Professional Beauty March/April 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za

male grooming

“

37 State of the male-nation point I realised that only training the Brazilian wax for women was sexist, so I developed male waxing techniques for the male anatomy and practised on a friend of mine. I then produced a training DVD on male waxing, which is given free to all beauty schools in South Africa,” says Hazafi-van der Walt.

She believes it is important for cyclists to wax their back, pubic area and buttocks – what she fondly refers

Sprout Medical Aesthetics Clinic: ....male clients fall in the 30 to 40 age category, but the younger 20 to 29 market is growing rapidly.

Sorbet Man: Some 1700 clients have been through the doors of the firstever Sorbet Man salon, which opened in Sandton City on 1 Sept 2014.

SOHO NYC Nails Waxing Beauty: .... an increase in male clientele over the last year, bringing the figure to 37% of total clientele.

Melinda Hazafi-van der Walt: ...male clients are better than women clients because they never miss their appointments.

of men to have pedicures,” continues Lloyd. “There are those who book it as part of the mani & pedi package service and this becomes a routine booking. Then there are those who are encouraged by their partners to give it a go. Once done, they are hooked.

“The success of this service has seen the need to have a designated pedicure area in forthcoming Sorbet Man stores – sites in Johannesburg are currently being evaluated – rather than having it attended to in the barber’s chair,” says Lloyd.

He concludes by saying that Sorbet Man’s tag line, ‘Real Men Groom’ has never been more relevant.

SOHO NYC Nails Waxing Beauty in Sandton City reports an increase in male clientele over the last year, bringing the figure to 37% of total clientele.

“We attribute the increase to a more aggressive campaign in which we’ve embarked on social media and community outreach, definitely also by word of mouth,” explains SOHO owner Getty Gizaw. “A happy guest is the best marketing tool we can utilise so we put a lot of emphasis on word of mouth.”

She notes that manicures have proved the most popular nail treatment for male clients. “We’ve also noticed a big growth in the amount of eyebrow threading and eyebrow waxing treatments we provide for our male guests – there’s been an 11% growth this year.”

online at www.probeauty.co.za

”

Wax to the max

More and more spas and salons are creating menus specifically for men and designing treatments accordingly.

There is a definite movement among men towards waxing, according to Melinda Hazafivan der Walt, known as the ‘Queen of Brazilian waxing’ in South Africa.

“Most of my male clients come to have their backs waxed and then after that the most requested area is legs. I wax a lot of sportsmen, many of whom want hairless legs for cycling.

“The trend for ‘manscaping’ – where the male genital area is waxed – took off in South Africa about seven years ago at the Professional Beauty Show in Cape Town. I was approached by two gay men who asked me to train therapists to wax men and teach these techniques at my Helia-D International Health & Training College. At that

to as the ‘back, sack and crack’ wax.

“When cycling, the hair in that area chafes and agitates the skin and then, when combined with perspiration, results in ingrown hair and pimples.”

Hazafi-van der Walt finds male clients are better than women clients because they never miss their appointments. “Men never have budget issues and they are never late.

Basically, male clients are on point.

They are very loyal and stick to one therapist.”

The average age of Hazafi-van der Walt’s male clientele is from age 30 up. PB

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product focus - male grooming

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Man alive!

Grooming products targeted specifically at men are increasingly infiltrating the professional market.

Two-in-one Phytomer’s Rasage Perfect Shaving Mask is a 2-in-1 treatment: shaving product + oxygenating, moisturising treatment mask. It provides a daily perfectly smooth shave every day and reduces irritations, while softening the hair. It can also be used as a moisturising and detoxifying mask, once or twice a week.

011 486 4904

Active agent complex The Babor Men range is based on the active agent complex Taurec, consisting of taurine, Siberian Ginseng and hops, which provide vitality and energy. Included in the range are the Calming After Shave Fluid, Vitalizing Hair & Body Shampoo, Ultra Comfort Shaving Foam and Line Reducing Eye Cream.

Peptide power Based on grape by-products, the TheraVine Men range consists of superior active ingredients to help improve and maintain healthy, strong skin. It includes the latest technologically advanced peptides to boost the skin’s natural defence system, soothe and repair after shaving, improve hydration and enhance the overall balance of the skin.

011 467 0110

021 886 6623

Sweet revenge The BlueBeard’s Revenge range of quality shaving and skincare products is aimed at the problem shaver, the guy who has suffered for an eternity due to his masculine beard growth. This brand also includes shaving hardware and grooming products, including soaps, shampoo, body wash, conditioner and moisturiser.

021 448 8847

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty March/April 2015

promotion

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New direction for Vitaderm South African brand Vitaderm has restructured its range to keep up with international trends and is no longer positioned as a botanical brand. Vitaderm now comprises the Phyto Active Range and the Advanced Active Range.

A

Butylated Hydroxy Toluene (an anti-oxidant for lot of effort and research has gone oil-based products) are avoided due to health into restructuring the Vitaderm brand, concerns. Preservatives such as diazolidinyl urea and according to company founder Belinda imidazolidinyl urea are also avoided since these are Wesson. formaldehyde donors, giving off formaldehyde when “We are using the best state-of-theincorporated into formulations. Formaldehyde is a art ingredients available on the world market, continues proven carcinogen. Paraben preservatives have Wesson. “It’s important that Vitaderm be seen more as a been avoided for similar health concerns,” clinical brand than a botanical one.” explains Wesson.

She notes that skin types are addressed with “It’s important Vitaderm’s Phyto Active Range, whereas skin Back in the day conditions such as dehydration, premature that Vitaderm be Vitaderm was created during the ageing, acne and uneven pigmentation seen more as a early 1990s through a need for a are addressed by the Advanced Active clinical brand locally produced skincare brand.

Range. Ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, “My husband Derek and I decided ascorbic acid-2Glucoside, tetra-peptide-5, than a to tackle the project as a team. arbutin and glutathione, as found in the botanical one.”

Derek, who is an accountant by trade Advanced Active Range, are sourced in with a special interest in logistics, has France, Switzerland, Japan and America.

Belinda Wesson been instrumental in the success of the “These ingredients are always incorporated business” says Belinda, who has more than into formulations at the maximum recommended 30 years’ experience in the field of skincare concentration for optimum results. Great emphasis therapy and who qualified as a cosmetic chemist a is also placed on offering the therapist a wide variety of few years ago. options when treating specific skin conditions.

Together the Wessons have succeeded in growing “We stand firm in our policy regarding safety in the business along with the help of a longstanding, cosmetics. Many commonly used ingredients such as loyal complement of 23 staff members. Vitaderm continues to show record growth year on year and can be found in over 500 spas and skincare clinics.

During 2012, shares in Vitaderm were sold to a wellknown international businessman, who is involved in assisting with Vitaderm’s growth, both locally and abroad.

Vitaderm will open a satellite office in Centurion during the second quarter of 2015.

“We are proud of the exceptional service that we offer as a team. In addition we also offer outstanding salon support, without the pressure of having to perform according to specific expectations,” concludes Wesson. PB

Professional Beauty March/April 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za

“ This was the first step in my mission to make a product that would be like a ‘Facelift in a Jar’.

I know this is a preposterous idea, but I decided to pursue it.”

Dr Des Fernandes, leading Aesthetic Surgeon and founder of Environ Skin Care.

Environ World @EnvironSkincare Website: www.environskincare.com

south african brands

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Gateway to the world With so much bad news circulating in South Africa at the moment, it’s good to know that a number of local skin, body and eye care brands are enjoying success in the international markets, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

O

ne of South Africa’s biggest skincare brands, Environ, has been exporting its products since 1991.

Its first international markets were Switzerland, Japan, America, Germany, Belgium, Namibia and the UK. Says Environ CEO and executive chairperson Val Carstens: “In order to market a product overseas you have to ensure that the product is registered with the regulatory authorities in each country and also that the packaging meets the requirements of the specific country. You also have to comply with all the different regulatory bodies’ requirements with regards to

online at www.probeauty.co.za

ingredients and the percentages allowed.

“We had to motivate our staff to work to higher international standards, which is very different from standards that workers accept in South Africa.”

Founded 24 years ago by Carstens and her brother, Dr Des Fernandes, the unique selling point about Environ is its ‘step-up system’ as well as the short shelf-life, guaranteeing freshest possible ingredients. The AVST Range contains the essential Vitamins A, C & E, plus peptides and indigenous antioxidants that the skin requires in R

Professional Beauty March/April 2015

south african brands

46

order to maintain health and beauty.

In addition to the above countries, Environ also exports to Australia, Austria, Belgium, Botswana, Bulgaria, Canada, Channel Islands, Colombia, Croatia, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Greece, Hong Kong, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Korea, Malta, Mauritius, Monaco, Poland, Romania, Russia, Seychelles, Singapore, Spain, Tasmania, Turkey, Ukraine, United Arab Emirates, Zimbabwe and Zambia.

Environ’s overseas distribution is handled by a network of independent distribution companies.

“We are open to seeking new distributors, but before considering distribution in any new country we require the potential distributor to inform us of all the requirements needed by their regulatory bodies,” comments Carstens.

Eyes right As of January 2015, the eyeSlices Professional Range for salons and spas, along with the eyeSlices Biotanix Range for department stores and pharmacy chains, is exported to the US, South America (Peru, Colombia and West Indies), Middle East (Dubai and Qatar), Australasia (Hong Kong, New Zealand, Australia and Japan) and Europe (UK, Spain, Greece, Portugal, Finland, France, Turkey and Iceland), as well the Maldives.

Says eyeSlices’ Kerryne Neufeldt: “eyeSlices’ eye treatment pads utilise a unique polymer Cryogel which combines active natural ingredients with this extraordinary gel, which is patented globally. The result is naturally cooling, translucent,

promotions throughout the course of a calendar year,” she says.

Logical conclusion

re-useable eye pads, which slowly release both soothing and rejuvenating ingredients into the eye surrounds.”

Neufeldt notes that the brand’s overseas markets came to eyeSlices.

“It seems that when one creates something unique and innovative, the customers find you. The US was the first international market and we almost started exporting there before we launched locally at the end of 2006.

“We looked for distributors who were willing to import, warehouse, market and distribute the brand in their country and become the brand ambassadors on our behalf. I partnered with those who suited our brand and vision best. They found us via our web site, word-of-mouth and sometimes via the international exhibitions we attended with the help of the Department of Trade and Industry and the Cosmetic Export Council of South Africa.”

In terms of potential new markets, Neufeldt is looking to Asia, India and Russia.

“Our main focus is distribution through reputable spas and salons.

We’ll often partner with large spa chains and co-brand our packaging.

We have found that this brand alliance assists to raise awareness and generate sales. Additionally, we support our local and international partners through online training and various

Professional Beauty March/April 2015

The Sknlogic skincare and body care brand is currently exporting to Kenya and Namibia.

“We began exporting to Namibia as from 2013, shortly after introducing the brand to South Africa,” says Natasha Adriaanse of Logica Beauty Supplies. “At the end of last year we signed on a distributor for Kenya. We actively promote the brand online, and have relied essentially on word of mouth.

“The brand is still growing, with lots of new products, including a line of treatment products for pigmentation and a chemical peel, to be introduced shortly. As soon as we have released these products into the South African market we will actively begin marketing the product to other countries in Africa as well as Europe.

In the near future we will begin to exhibit at international trade shows.”

Adriaanse notes that Sknlogic aims to provide a skincare solution that works with the skin’s biological processes to achieve visible results.

“It has a synergistic approach to science and nature, offering powerful fruit-based formulas with optimal concentrations of active ingredients to actively improve skin health and appearance from underneath the skin’s surface. International market trends and technological innovations initiate and drive product development. We are continuously upgrading formulations to ensure that we utilise the most stable and effective combination and concentration of active ingredients R

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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business tips

48

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south african brands

49 for the correct avenue and company to work with we launched the brand there. The launch was very carefully planned with lots of training. We had to spend time in Mauritius for this.”

Beaucience now also exports to Zambia and Namibia.

“We are keen to find new markets, as long as we can find the correct companies to work with. It’s not worth proceeding if you do not have the right people on the ground in the other countries. We market internationally through direct selling and in salons,” explains Eales.

Beaucience’s entire line of antiageing products for male and female users contains a peptide active ingredient called Proteasyl, derived from the pea plant, with huge beneficial anti-wrinkle properties to the skin.

in our products. Sknlogic uses the maximum concentration of key active ingredients and sources the highest grade of quality ingredients from around the world,” explains Adriaanse.

Vital information Vitaderm supplies products to Namibia and Angola, as well as to upmarket destination spas in Mozambique and Nigeria – the latter being their largest market in Africa.

“We have been surprised by the extent of the spa industry in Angola, and the response to our brand has been very positive indeed. Our greatest challenges in the African countries we supply to are the language barrier and ensuring that therapists receive thorough training,” says Vitaderm’s Belinda Wesson.

It was in 2008 that Vitaderm broke into the overseas market, when the owner of a South African salon that stocked Vitaderm re-located to The Netherlands.

“We were very fortunate in that she approached us to secure distribution rights for Vitaderm in Holland,” comments Wesson. “To date, we have not participated in any international trade shows since our distributors have, in each case, approached us directly to stock Vitaderm. We have always been of the opinion that our local market is most important to us, and have seen over the years how too much focus on exporting can cause stock problems for companies where too much emphasis is placed on export.

“Now that we have focused all of our attention on aspects such as improved packaging and advertising, we feel that we are ready to spread our wings by increasing our exposure

online at www.probeauty.co.za

overseas. Vitaderm aims to begin participating in international trade shows from the middle of 2015.”

Beautiful science Designed for the more environmentally conscious user, Beaucience (pronounced bo - ci ons) specifically focuses on using 100% natural formulations and organic ingredients where possible. The manufacturer of Beaucience is certified by the Soil Association.

Beaucience’s first venture into the export market was in 2013, to Mauritius.

“This breakthrough was through word of mouth,” says Beaucience’s Diane Eales. “We had a customer who bought the product while in South Africa, loved it and wanted to make it available in Mauritius. After a search

Homeopathic aromatherapy The first overseas market for homeopathic aromatherapy brand Lilian Terry International (LTI) was Dubai (UAE) in 2000.

According to LTI general manager Carli Argirova, the company broke into the Dubai market by exhibiting at the Beauty World Exhibition in Dubai.

“LTI has subsequently added Saudi Arabia, Ukraine, Namibia and New Zealand to its export list,” says Argirova. “We actively seek new markets by attending international trade fairs and exhibitions where we can meet potential distributors.

In addition we visit local spas, hotels and other businesses in the industry while in the country of each international exhibition.

R

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“Our range of products includes massage oil complexes for body and face as well as facial toners and gels, LT Flexycups for cupping massage treatments and natural clay body wraps. LTI complexes are completely natural with no added colorants or preservatives and none of our products have been tested on animals.”

Power exports RégimA exports a full anti-ageing home care range for face and body care, plus in-salon professional products, including the recently launched RégimA Zone high technology Power Peels.

The brand’s export markets are all the African countries, UK, Belgium, Holland, Netherlands, Luxembourg, Italy, Malta, Poland, France, USA, Canada, New Zealand, Australia, Kazakhstan and Lithuania.

Says RegimA’s Jacqui Faucitt: “Our first export market was the UK about 10 years ago. We, as the manufacturers of RegimA, are originally from the UK and had people from the UK and South Africa who were willing to become involved with the international market. There was a lot of disposable income in the UK at that time and there was a hunger for new, more advanced technology, a change from the usual European products stocked by most salons. The more medical and professional products were what the Brits were craving to counteract binge sunbathing and harsh winter weather, which wreaks havoc on the skin.

“It is always exciting to pursue new markets. We have found that trade shows have been the best way to break into the markets. For instance, at the recent Professional Beauty North Expo in Manchester, England, we obtained leads for several new destinations. One that recently came to fruition is Lithuania, a country that produces plastic surgeons and has many salons and spas. They feel that RégimA is made to measure for them.

“We have also exhibited at the World Anti-Ageing Congress in Monaco where we were exposed to doctors and medi-spa owners from all countries. Our medical database has been expanded through exhibiting at the International Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons congresses.”

Faucitt reveals that there has been much excitement about the new RégimA Zone training sessions conducted by South Africa’s highly trained professionals, who support RégimA and South African products at the London and Manchester editions of the Professional Beauty Expo.

Flagship product The initial breakthrough into the international market for Lays Beauty was via a Singapore clinic which expressed interest in the company’s flagship product, Lays tissue oil, in 2005.

Professional Beauty March/April 2015

“They were keen to use it to manage the appearance of scars after surgery,” explains Vick Maharaj of Marshalls Traditional Healthcare.

“Today, in addition to Singapore, we export Lays Beauty products to Namibia, Zimbabwe, Nigeria and Botswana.”

Marshalls Traditional Healthcare recently participated at Professional Beauty London, to gain access to the UK market.

“Lays tissue oil is deliberately different from other tissue oils with respect to the delivery mechanism – it is available in a convenient spray dispenser – its ingredients, as well as its texture,” continues Maharaj.

“Ingredients were purposefully selected in order to address the requirements and demands which our skin has to cope with in these stressful times. For example, the carrier oil is grape seed oil because of its excellent anti-oxidant properties.

Jojoba oil was selected because it is a superb scalp nourisher and is known as the ‘wrinkle fighter’, while Lanolin oil is used because it is a natural oil and is the nearest substance chemically to sebum, the natural lubricant of human skin. Lays tissue oil spray also contains Vitamin E and Lavender oil.”

Other Lays Beauty products include lotions, creams, essential oils, carrier oils, and a recently launched hair oil.

In the spa MatsiMela Home Spa, a range of skincare and body care products R

online at www.probeauty.co.za

It’s a miracle!

An outstanding product for: • Stretch marks • Scars and blemishes • Dry skin/eczema • Dry hair and dry scalp • Cracked heels • Uneven skintone

Treatment from Head -to-Toe

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“Just a little note to say thank you for creating the best tissue oil that I’ve ever used. The Lay’s product has really helped in keeping my eczema skin moisturised and hydrated. It’s an outstanding product. I use it on a daily basis and can’t live without it.”

Anonymous, Durban

south african brands

52

founded by Wayne and Olivia Nel in 2006, exports to Namibia, Zimbabwe, Zambia, Denmark, Swaziland, Europe, USA and Hong Kong.

Says MatsiMela’s Emmy Stoltz: “Our first export enquiry came from Namibia and in 2010 we signed our first distribution agreement with a business called Leather Lux. A lot of our international business has stemmed from local visitors and consumers who lived in South Africa and left for greener pastures. They have invariably used MatsiMela and fell in love with the products, seeing potential to market the brand overseas.”

Deep delivery

South Africa’s certified organic skincare line – Esse – has been certified with Ecocert since 2006 and exports to more than 20 countries.

Export markets include Hong Kong (the biggest market), Macau, Malaysia, Philippines, Sweden, Netherlands, the

UK, Germany and other European markets. Esse is also exported to the US. Says Esse founder Trevor Steyn: “In South Africa, Esse is very much a salon and spa brand, whereas our retail market overseas is huge. For instance, the product is sold in the Harvey Nichols store in London.

“We are certified with PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) and Beauty without Cruelty – this means not only are our products not tested on animals but all the raw materials that we use are not tested on animals. However, when we work in the EU we can’t use the PETA or Beauty without Cruelty labels on our packaging as the EU doesn’t recognise either body.

“Esse is the only organically certified production facility in Africa.

Twice a year Ecocert flies out to audit us. We are also certified by Phytotrade Africa for fair trade practices. “ PB

Professional Beauty March/April 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Wax deluxe Melinda Hazafi-van der Walt of Melinda Wax has been exporting her products to New Zealand and Australia for the last four years.

“We have four agents in Zambia and export potential in Mauritius, Qatar, Canada and America,” says Hazafi-van der Walt.

“Melinda Wax is a uniquely formulated product where only the best ingredients are used. It is designed and tested by myself and the waxes are elegantly packaged for the professional waxing therapist,” she adds.

The range includes hot wax, strip wax, film wax, paraffin wax and wax strips, among other products.

Dr Gobac Cosmeceuticals, which uses a combination of highly effective actives and botanicals that are transported deep into the skin with advanced delivery systems, exports to Spain, England, Poland, Germany and Croatia.

“The overseas market found us in 2013, when we were approached by our current distributor, who was looking for a niche, superior quality medical brand. I am sure that we will expand our export activities, and attending trade fairs still provides the most effective exposure to future clients and distributors,” says Robert Gobac.

Organic route

Diminish skin care system from A day and night treatment to effectively treat hyper pigmentation.

Benefits: •

Bearberry extract (Alpha Arbutin) reduces melanin production by inhibiting tyrosinase and effectively lightens spots and dark areas on the skin.

•

Raspberry extract promotes cell renewal and new cell growth.

•

Powerful anti-oxidant blend of vitamin C & E.

•

Organic certified Phyto compound blend with 7 Swiss Alphine plant extracts to regenerate, calm and heal the skin.

•

Daisy extract is a powerful skin lightening agent and pigment inhibitor.

April Launch Special For the month of April purchase both of the Diminish products and receive a free cosmetic bag.

While stocks last.

Coming soon SKNLOGIC chemical peel with the benefits of AHA’s, BHA’s and Bearberry extract.

info@sknlogic.com 021 552 6999 www.sknlogic.com

product news

54

In the market

Hydration plus r Environ’s Super Moisturiser+ is a luxurious moisturising cream harnessing the super hydrating and barrier strengthening powers of Revidrate, Pentavitin and ProVitamin B5 to nourish, replenish and enhance the resilience and radiance of the skin.

Our round-up of newly launched products and innovations.

Meeting cosmeceutical needs

011 262 0264

r

The Dr Dermal range of cosmeceuticals, formulated by a dermatologist, a plastic surgeon and an international award-winning chemist, are designed to fulfil the needs of prematurely ageing South Africans looking for competitively priced cuttingedge formulations.

Regulating pigment r SKNdiminish day is a day treatment with pigmentregulating ingredients to effectively treat hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone, while protecting the skin from free radicals. It should be followed by Protect SPF 30.

079 106 2863

021 552 6999

r

Red no more

r

Ideally suited to sensitised skin, Dermalogica’s Redness Relief Primer, with a broad spectrum SPF 20, counteracts tell-tale skin redness and balances skin tone. It is a soothing, translucent primer tinted with natural green botanical extracts, velvety silicones and a physical sunscreen.

011 268 0018

Age reversal

r

In order to create its anti-ageing ReVersive range, Babor relied on award-winning medical research, the protective effect of plant-based stem cells and the power of active marine ingredients. ReVersive contains four high-performance active ingredients that work together in perfect synergy.

011 467 0044

Professional Beauty March/April 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za

hair news

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Crowning

glory Punk rock Punked Neon Hair Dye SemiPermanent Colour lasts up to 18 washes. The dye deposits in the hair cuticle and outer cortex.

Conditioning protein agents form part of the Punked Neon Hair Dye Formula to add shine and improve style manageability. Punked can also be used in colour correction work or as a quick pre-filler and pre-pigmentation shade.

Tress-a-licious news from the hair front.

Turning up the heat FHI Heat has unveiled the Patent Pending Stylus, which has all the qualities of a brush but can heat up to 400⁰F to de-frizz, style, smooth hair or create volume, waves, lift and curls. Its high-performance ceramic heater produces quick, even heating across the brush for longlasting styling results.

021 448 8847

078 210 0724

It’s a miracle!

From Schwarzkopf Professional comes BC Oil Miracle Barbary Fig Oil, which combines intensive haircare together with ultimate indulgence.

The BC Oil Miracle Barbary Fig Oil & Keratin Restorative range comprises four products – a treatment, shampoo, conditioning milk and a mask.

011 203 0700

online at www.probeauty.co.za

New Ruutos business model Haircare line Ruutos is opening up registration to anyone who would like to become an associate of the company and sell its products. Whenever associates refer anyone to Ruutos, they will be paid a commission and possible bonus from the sale of any Ruutos product, based on certain criteria.

011 326 4296

Professional Beauty March/April 2015

nails

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Nail kaleidoscope

Autumn/Winter trends Now that it’s time to say goodbye to hot summer days, cooler weather does not mean that your wardrobe should become dreary, and neither should your choice of nail colour and style, writes Sonette van Rensburg.

T

here is something really exciting about the nail trends for the upcoming Autumn/Winter season, with some stunning colours to choose from – ranging from classic dark, bold and sexy to more natural subtle neutrals.

Top international nail brands have collaborated with wellknown fashion designers like Jonathan Saunders, Parabal Gurung and many others to set the trends showcased on international catwalks. Designers have a strong influence on the latest nail trends and inspiring the season’s nail colour palette to match their beautiful glamorous outfits, created with materials such as silks, velvet and leather, as well as some fun prints and rich gold fabrics of lace and satin.

This season’s fashion and colour trends exude absolute femininity, sophistication and class from every angle. There is even something a little magical and mysterious about this look, with its romantic, Baroque-chic edge.

If you are a fashionista and follower of fashion, then you will want to know exactly what the top nail trends and colours for the season are, so let’s take a peek.

Natural accents There is a definite move towards the more natural look, with the natural accents of nail shapes and lengths that were seen during the fall/winter shows. Nail lengths range between the shorter and medium options, with rounder, more oval shapes in the forefront.

Romantic reds Reds always form the basis of the most widespread and popular nail polish colours, and each season they are a sure thing that will stay classic forever. However, for fall/winter 2015, they take on more Bordeaux tones and accents of blue, black, and gold, transforming them into richer, more romantic shades.

Golden accents Gold always brings to mind a sense of luxury and comfort. Golden monochrome looks add richness to any outfit and are also being used to design patterns and prints layered over shades.

Gloss and matte shades are still proving to be popular, while creating a French manicure with a combination of matt and glossy golden shades looks elegant and extravagant.

Pale and sophisticated Paler nails are gaining plenty of popularity but this does not mean bare nails, rather paler and softer shades of beige, peach, pink, grey, mauve and even milky-white. These colours have set a completely new trend, with a bit of twist in terms of having more muted undertones of alternative hues and glittery textures to add sophistication

Professional Beauty March/April 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za

nails

57

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Moonies Moon manicures are making it big this season, with top stylists experimenting with different variations of colours and shapes, from traditional and classic to bold and daring in shades of Bordeaux and black. Instead of being half-circular in shape the moon was seen as a more triangular shape, or even left bare on the catwalks.

Playful and fun Linear and stripy patterns were noted during many of the latest fashion shows. They were painted in vertical directions in different shade combinations of red and black, to barely there pale blue and Bordeaux and even bright and colourful.

R

Professional Beauty March/April 2015

183 Free Lovin’

181 The Artist’s Muse 180 Heart & Soul

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184

Pursuit of Beauty

Classic Jacquard

nails

58 Unexpected and daring Nail stylists have become far more daring with the looks they create to interpret the amazing creations of fashion designers, turning nails into an absolute fashion accessory with the most unexpected of materials and techniques.

All that glitters Add a bit of glitz and glamour with the stunning Cinderella-inspired colours and glitters available in this season’s ranges. The most beautiful effects can be created with different techniques to adorn your client’s nails and make her feel like a princess. Another polish trend which is making its way onto the scene is eye-catching 3D nail enamels, which are sure to add a touch of splendour to any evening outfit.

Leather and lace Lace manicures are being created with the most diverse patterns and prints. For instance, gold layered over bolder, darker shades of matt red, blue or black creates a lace texture-over-leather effect that looks stunning, sexy and feminine.

A more innovative look that proved very popular with celebs recently was the French look, but not in the traditional white and barely there nude pink or sheer beige, but rather a solid black nail with a white tip, sometimes with the white varying in design, from hound’s-tooth to a gentle lace effect.

Liquid metal Metallics made it big on the catwalks last year and are certainly making a comeback. Inspired by earth’s precious metals, metallic shades are becoming an everlasting fashion trend in a range of combinations. It’s like liquid metal for your fingertips.

Colours and shades Rich earthy colours are quite a big feature for the season, with Marsala making its debut as the Pantone colour for the year. This has had an immense influence

SpaRitual The Wander collection colours include: Mirage – a gold matt satin, Nomad – a green duo-chrome matte satin, Starry Night – a chocolate brown matt satin, Oasis – a navy blue matt satin, Arroya, and Tapestry

LCN The Rich Velvet collection is available in all the LCN application systems and comprises four glamorous shades; Silk Seduction – silky pearl, Onyx Goddess – trendy rich aubergine, Gold Honey Princess – golden honey and What A Royal Treat – royal blue.

on the season’s nail polishes, gel polishes, colour gels and pigmented powders.

Featured here are the Fall/Winter 2015 collections from some top nail brands: SpaRitual – the Wander collection features six new nail lacquers that meander through the shifting sands of the desert. Richly pigmented, sun-baked and mysterious, the colours are woven into rich tapestries that tell the stories of history’s great nomads.

LCN – The Rich Velvet collection, inspired by the Baroque period, presents a tribute to contemporary luxury, forming a connection between the past and future. It is a modern interpretation of strong colours like gold and aubergine, as well as soft colours like powder blue and frosted pink.

Morgan Taylor – Escape to a magical fantasy land with the Enchantment Fall 2015 collection. This limited edition palette of six beguiling shades includes clever

Professional Beauty March/April 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za

nails

59 Morgan Taylor

mauve, stormy grey, fairy dust pink, minty green and glimmering glitters.

“This colour collection was inspired by the mystical storybook forests we used to dream about,” say Taylor Daniel and Morgan Haile, namesakes of the brand.

“Though the colour spectrum is sophisticated, it is lighthearted and evokes the fanciful feelings of childhood.”

Morgan Taylor’s Midnight Masquerade Winter 2015 collection features six new shades inspired by the mystique of an after-hours affair. The playful shades of the Midnight Masquerade collection are brighter expressions of deep winter hues. The shades include: Vixen in a Mask – Sultry scarlet shimmer, Jest-er Kidding – Platinum multi colour glitter, Flirting With The Phantom – Natural mauve crème, Don’t Rain On My Masquerade – Bronze Pink Glitter, The Big Reveal – Deep Emerald Shimmer, My Kind of Ball Gown – Vibrant rose crème.

Nelfies?

A variety of interesting nail styles, colours, shapes and trends could be seen at the Grammy Awards this February,

The six new limited-edition shades of the Enchantment Fall 2015 collection are left to right: Now You See Me – Chocolate brown shimmer, Simply Spellbound - Natural nude crème, I’m The Good Witch - Pink pewter glitter, Magician’s Assistant – Rosy mauve crème, Hocus Pocus - Dusty mint crème, Who-Dini – Gray blue crème.

from meticulously manicured bare nails and softer shades, to more daring, bold darker colours. Even the talons of many stars were polished in combinations of black. Nail art was in strong evidence, with celebrities like Lilly Allen, Kylie Jenner, Heidi Klum, and Alex Chung to name a few, who are clearly putting as much effort into their nail art as they do to their outfits and uploading their nelfies (nail selfies) to Instagram. PB

Sonette van Rensberg has been in the nail and beauty industry for 25 years. She consults with salons and spas and trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail and beauty technology, basic salon skills, client relations and perfecting technical skills. email: sonettevr@gmail.com or tel: 076 585 4191

medical aesthetics

60

Trending in

aesthetics 2015 Aesthetic treatment will continue to grow this year as consumers become more educated and open to ageing intervention, thanks to advancements in products, education and more natural-looking treatment results, writes Karen Ellithorne.

I

njectables are here to stay and continue to grow and advance.

Plastic and reconstructive surgeon Dr Chetan Patel anticipates that in 2015 we are going to see more filler manufacturers and the addition of anti-ageing molecules as part

of their filler formulations, such as antioxidants and growth factors.

He also predicts that the growing use of fillers and toxins will continue in 2015, but in far more conservative doses than was previously used to achieve very natural rather than awkward-looking results.

Less is more “Over the last few years, the ‘global approach’ has been an emerging trend,” says plastic surgeon Marshall Murdoch. “This has seen treatments extended across the face, with more areas being treated, but smaller amounts being used. The aim is a beautifully enhanced, but natural look.”

Murdoch predicts that in 2015 multi-modality treatment will take this paradigm to the next level by using several different treatment options, each aimed at a specific aspect of ageing, to create a result that is greater than any single treatment.

“This trend will be driven by patients who seek a natural and timeless aesthetic, rather than the brash and obviously ‘done’ look.

The combination of less invasive

Ethnic skin Sonette Donker from Skin iD predicts that in 2015, due to South Africa’s large ethnic population, we are going to see an increase in skinlightening/ whitening treatments with Fitzpatrick Photo Type 5&6 wanting to be two to three shades lighter. This will be done in a safer, more natural and controlled way than it has been done in previous years.

“If you own or manage an aesthetic practice, it is advisable to focus on the rising black middle class, who are concerned with hyperpigmentation and oiliness,” suggests Donker, “as this is a rapidly growing market in our industry.”

Suspension sutures

surgery, energy-based devices, dermal fillers and neurotoxins, tailored to the specific needs of each patient, will yield a result that is greater than the sum of each treatment – truly justifying the ‘Gestalt Result’,” continues Murdoch. “Practically achieving this is likely to require high-level aesthetic intuition combined with technical virtuosity and it may be several years before this trend reaches its zenith.”

Towards the end of last year we saw the introduction of suspension sutures for a discreet, immediate lifting effect for the facial contours.

The sutures currently available in our market are called Silhouette Soft and are distributed by Genop Healthcare. The main component of Silhouette Soft is polylactic acid (PLA), a polymer known in the medical field for many years (eg suture thread, orthopaedic pins, screws and nails for bone fractures are all made from PLA).

This polymer is particularly biocompatible with human beings and is also completely biodegradable. Once the suture is applied, the polylactic acid acts on the deeper layers of the skin and helps to increase the volume of saggy areas and gradually restores natural shape back to the face.

This is a new trend in injectable aesthetics and it is going to be interesting to watch how it develops and advances in our market place.

Professional Beauty March/April 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za

medical aesthetics

61 Surgical enhancement

Expanding markets It is expected that more men will seek cosmetic surgery and aesthetic treatments this year to look good and stay competitive in the job market. According to ASAPS (American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery), men seeking cosmetic procedures in 2014 rose to 9% of total procedures performed.

Sonette Donker agrees that the number of men seeking aesthetic treatments has risen and suggests the use of chemical peels, botulinum toxin and fillers to correct the visible signs of ageing.

It is also surmised by board-certified plastic surgeon Norman Rowe (New York City) that the age group of clients seeking cosmetic procedures will continue to expand to both younger and more senior patients. Younger patients realise the important role of early anti-ageing intervention, while older patients are staying in the workforce longer and want to look more youthful.

North or South?

Laser technician Cherie Fraser from Dermology has been practising a laser treatment called the South Beach Peel in her clinic for a number of years already. This treatment helps to combat ageing issues and is very successful in the treatment of fine lines, wrinkles, pigmentation and redness.

For 2015 she predicts an increase in demand for the North Star Peel, which is the latest non-surgical laser treatment that helps you look younger, without the need for plastic surgery.

Both North and South treatments combine Broadband Light rejuvenation, which is very effective in erasing sun damage, with the smoothing effects of the MicroLaserPeel and/or

online at www.probeauty.co.za

ProFractional laser resurfacing all in one treatment.

“When administered separately, the three treatments are extremely effective, but when combined they provide an even greater result with less downtime,” says Fraser. “The North Star Peel combines the same three technologies, but provides significant improvement with moderate to severe lines, wrinkles, acne scars, and sun damaged skin.

“Depending on the severity of condition we can design the most effective laser treatment for the skin’s condition. The North Star Peel is a new procedure for our clinic, but already the results have been dramatic,” concludes Fraser.

On the plastic surgery front, Dr Chetan Patel also envisions advancement in the growth of fat transfers as a more permanent form of correcting those wrinkles and volume loss areas of the face.

“Fat transfer is a highly specialised but extremely rewarding technique, offering long-lasting results in comparison to current hyaluronic acid and other fillers on the market,” he says.

Dr Patel expects to see a growth in liposuction and liposculpture, with or without fat grafting (ie buttock augmentation) on the surgical front.

He also foresees a move toward day case cosmetic surgery, with the view toward quicker recovery with the use of combination therapies, both medical and physiological, as patient work demands become increasingly stringent Dr Patel feels that surgical rejuvenation will continue to remain fairly unchanged for 2015, with liposuction and breast procedures continuing to top the charts.

It seems certain that fillers and toxins will continue to be the leading procedures for 2015, but with the theme of less is more. Expect your patients to visit your aesthetic practices more often for minimally invasive treatments. This will be instead of them having invasive treatments once or twice a year that interrupt their lives with hectic downtime.

The key for success in 2015 will be to ensure that you gear your practice to encourage regular visits through treatment package discounts and possibly loyalty discounts, while keeping yourself completely up to date with the latest technologies. PB

With more than 20 years of experience in her field, Karen Ellithorne is the owner of Spa and Salon Solutions. She is well connected within the aesthetic arena and has been responsible for organising the Medical Aesthetics Conventions for the past six years. Email: karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za

Professional Beauty March/April 2015

hcsbc / eohcb

62

Labour Relations in the Hairdressing, Cosmetology and Beauty Industry

by Matt Haddon

The Hairdressing, Beauty and Cosmetology Industry is a unique and brilliant industry. It also has an important aspect about it, in that there is a Bargaining Council that acts as a very prominent labour authority over all employees associated with rendering beauty services, as well as those who employ them.

W

ithin the council a process called Collective Bargaining occurs – this involves negotiating and settling on a Collective Agreement, which acts as the basic conditions of employment specifically for that industry.

In order for collective bargaining to take place, two parties need to represent the interests of the employees and the employers. These are normally a trade union and an employer’s organisation respectively. The parties will then negotiate over the collective agreement with mandates that have been given to them by their members. Factors that are usually negotiated include minimum wages, work hours, restraint of trades, and much more. Once these factors are all finally settled and agreed upon, the findings are put into a Collective Agreement for administering by a Bargaining Council.

The Bargaining Council (HCSBC) The Bargaining Council acts as the administrator and compliance enforcer of the Collective Agreement. It is for this reason that all spas, salons, or workplaces involved in rendering a beauty service must be registered, along with the employees that work there. This is ensures that the Council can effectively observe the happenings in the industry and carry out its allocated functions.

The National Bargaining Council for the Hairdressing, Cosmetology, Beauty and Skincare Industry (NBCHCBSI) has a certificate issued by the Commission for Conciliation, Mediation and Arbitration (CCMA) stating that they can render the same services offered by the CCMA. The commissioners understand the industry well, and cases are attended to far more quickly at the NBCHCBSI compared to the case load at the CCMA.

The NBCHCBSI also sets specific industry standards in place, for example Sick Pay Funds and Pension Funds. They are also the direct link to the South African Labour Department, and all Collective Agreements that are agreed upon, via negotiations between the Union and Employer’s Organisation, are lawful and gazetted by the government.

The Employer’s Organisation (EOHCB) EOHCB assists employers, in the hairdressing and beauty industry, in all labour matters such as company policies and procedures, representation at conciliation and arbitration, disciplinary codes and procedures, assistance with applying the Collective Agreement, and much, much more. Employers of the industry are encouraged to join the EOHCB as effective employee management can be difficult and can significantly harm the business, if done incorrectly.

Along with assisting clients, the EOHCB also takes part in a significant amount of industrial interaction by holding competitions and education clubs, as well as improving the industry standards as a whole, in both the Hairdressing and Beauty sectors. PB

For the direct contact details of the EOHCB representatives in your area please feel free to contact EOHCB Western Cape (021) 421-3695 EOHCB Southern Gauteng (011) 472-6780

Professional Beauty March/April 2015

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64 Cidesco Section South Africa

Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta

SA hosts world’s most prestigious annual beauty congress The global beauty therapy industry will come under the spotlight at the 2015 CIDESCO (Comité International d’Esthétique et de Cosmétologie) Congress, which takes place at the Sandton Convention Centre from May 23 - 25 2015.

D

uring the recent and current economic downturn, the beauty therapy industry has remained one of the strongest-performing sectors.

To be successful in this competitive field it is imperative to stay ahead of the game.

The CIDESCO Congress has one goal – to create a non-biased platform for all stakeholders in the beauty and skin therapy professions to have open and informative discussions for the improvement of the entire industry.

With the theme ‘Skin is Alive’, the 2015 CIDESCO Congress will showcase leading exhibitors committed to the advancement of skin therapy. Key speakers will advise delegates on the latest trends, new procedures, new ingredients, business management and financial advice.

Delegates can up-skill themselves by attending courses run by innovators and leading international industry experts.

Topics to be covered by international speakers and demonstrations include customer retention, medical aesthetics, spa design and layout, skin resurfacing and micro-pigmentation.

Delegates

are given the opportunity to learn more about new active ingredients, techniques, trending procedures as well as to attend demonstrations and courses by industry leaders and meet representatives from all of CIDESCO’s 33 international sections.

Delegates can enjoy great social and networking opportunities on the evenings of 20 and 21 May and the annual Gala Dinner on 23 May – African Flair.

Monday 25 May will have a programme specifically focused on students and their future.

The Congress will be open to the public on Monday afternoon, in association with CHOC SA (Childhood Cancer Foundation of South Africa) and will provide an educational forum for all to experience the best of what the industry has to offer.

For more information please go to www.cidescocongress2015.com.

To register for the CIDESCO Global Congress and Exhibition 2015 click on the following link: https://www.quicket. co.za/events/6983-skin-is-alive/

BODY PAINTING COMPETITION

CIDESCO Congress speakers include: Dr Ridwan Mia (plastic surgeon): Harvesting Skin Dr Robert Weiss (dermatologist): Hormones and How They Affect Skin Dr Des Fernandes (plastic surgeon): Micro-needling versus Mesotherapy Lydia Safarti (USA): The Key to Making Your Spa or Salon a Destination Phillipa Crichton: Then there was Light – IPL and Laser technologies Dr Minoka Nadeson: The Vampire Facial Anouska Cassano (UK): Scalp Micropigmentation

CIDESCO World Congress Make-up and Body Art Competition (25 May) is the final element of the CIDESCO Congress Programme, with the presentation of awards and a parade of the works of art.

Throughout the day delegates can observe the participants as their creations take shape and gain an insight into the specific techniques of the make-up artists.

Dr Dennis Reebok (podiatrist): Treating clients with Diabetes

DATE: 25 May 2015

THEME: African Fauna and Flora CATEGORIES: Student – Head and shoulders, with costuming Professional – Full body COST TO ENTER: Student – R150 Professional – R500

Dr Bovero (Italy): Touch Therapy – its effect

Professional Beauty March/April 2015

Johnette Du Raandt: Massage on Cancer clients

Topical panel discussion - Skin Therapy versus Medical Aesthetics

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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