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Mar/Apr 2017

www.probeauty.co.za

incorporating

On the home front South African skincare brands

Pristine policy

How clean is your spa?

Buddy-buddy Affiliate marketing

Millennials mania Targeting that generation

Man-tastic! Male gro o m i n g t re n d s - w h a t m e n want


14

28

In this issue...

30

Regulars

Business

Spa Focus

7 Industry news

14 Ask the Experts

26 All out Thai

Local and international news

All your questions answered

Royal Orchid Thai Spa

51 Crowning glory

17 Insider

28 Out of sight, out of mind

What’s hot and happening in the hair industry

56 Product news

All the latest launches

58 SAAHSP

Tracking the industry with stats

18 Marvelous Millennials

Medical Aesthetics

The Millennial spa-goer

52 Private practice

21 Ahead of the curve

The latest news from SAAHSP

Innovations to drive the industry forward

Legislation unpacked

Features

23 The right fit

Spa cleanliness in focus

Affiliate marketing

30 Man in the mirror

18

Male grooming trends

39 LED lights the way

Treatment review – DermaFix LED Masque

40 Proud to be South African!

Local skincare brands

48 Gentlemen prefer…

Grooming products for men

23


Welcome

W

e always have a pic of a cute guy on the cover of the March/April issue of Professional Beauty, signaling our annual special feature on male grooming. So, in this issue you will find an article on the latest treatment trends for male clients, a focus on men’s grooming products, and even part of our regular Insider column pertains specifically to this demographic. Salons, spas and medical aesthetics clinics would do well to tap into what is a steadily growing and important market. This issue also includes one of my favourite features of the year – South African skincare brands. I find it heart-warming that this country boasts so many high quality homegrown skincare brands – a veritable smorgasbord for therapists to choose from. Not only does this demonstrate the creative and technological talents of the creators and developers of South African brands, but the pricing of local products is not subject to the unfavourable exchange rate. We also include in this issue a fascinating article about ‘the democratisation of luxury’ – an initially perplexing term, until you realise how high end spas and the aesthetics market can benefit from the fact that BRICS countries, such as South Africa, have seen a big increase of ‘very richbehaving consumers’, who are keen to experience luxury treatments and purchase deluxe products. Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

Mar/Apr 2017

www.probeauty.co.za

incorporating

On the home front South African skincare brands

Pristine policy

How clean is your spa?

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Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017

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industry news

7

News All the news and views from the world of beauty and spa.

SA – important market for Phytomer

Ayesha Rajah (A&I Importers) and Antoine Gedouin

A

ntoine Gedouin, president of global spa brand, Phytomer, made his fifth trip to South Africa on 11 January to meet with local distributor, A&I Importers. Speaking at A&I’s offices in Johannesburg, Gedouin said: “South Africa is Phytomer’s most important market in Africa, ahead of Egypt, Morocco and Tunisia. Our brand was founded in France in 1972 and is now found in 80 countries around the world. “The advantage of the South African market for Phytomer is that it operates in the same way as European markets. Business conditions in other African countries can be challenging. In fact, my first-ever trip on behalf of Phytomer was to South Africa, way back in 1982.”

Gedouin represents the second generation of the family-owned Phytomer, a brand known for its pioneering work in marine biotechnologies. “The company has now moved into its third generation, with my daughter, Mathilde Gedouin Lagarde, in charge of marketing and communications,” he explained. It is this family background that has ensured Phytomer’s longevity. Gedouin continued: “The success of any brand is a good story, one that has the conviction of its founder. In Phytomer’s case the founder is my father, Jean Gedouin, a farmer who was inspired to start the company when he discovered the benefits of seaweed for health and skin.”

Gedouin noted that Phytomer’s speciality is R&D and that the company has its own seaweed field in Saint-Malo in Brittany, a laboratory and an additional company that develops active ingredients not only for Phytomer, but for other cosmetic companies. Professional Beauty asked Gedouin why marine ingredients are so good for the skin. He responded: “If you look at the components of blood and seawater and you remove the sodium chloride from the seawater, you are left with the same components as found in blood.” Phytomer’s latest product, the CITYLIFE hydrating, anti-pollution moisturiser, launches in South Africa in April.

Berger joins Dermalogica

News in pictures

Natalie Berger has been appointed training specialist at Dermalogica Cape Town. “It is an absolute privilege to be part of the Dermalogica tribe, as it is filled with so much passion and unwavering dedication to the skin health industry,” says Berger. After completing a Diploma in Somatology at the Central University of Technology, Berger worked on a luxury cruise liner as a spa therapist. Once back in Cape Town she became a spa manager.

Co-founders of premium Hungarian skincare brand, Omorovicza, Margaret and Stephen de Heinrich de Omorovicza, visited Johannesburg in January to launch the brand exclusively at The Spa at Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017


industry news

8

SalonCare goes PUM route

News in brief ■ Black Pearl SA’s innovation:

The Black Pearl South Africa team has created a new treatment protocol – the Lux Mineral Purity Body Treatment – designed to purify and replenish the skin’s vitality. It includes a facial massage performed with green amethysts.

Nihada Lazarevski and Miranda Govender

C

ape Town-based skincare brand SalonCare recently received business expertise assistance from PUM Netherlands Experts, an international organisation that provides direct support to individual companies in developing countries and emerging markets. Says SalonCare’s Amanda HarrodJonathan: “I heard about PUM through Wesgro, an agency affiliated with the Department of Trade and Industry that assists companies desiring to export. Wesgro has to approve your PUM application and you must fit SARS criteria. “PUM’s Cape Town representative, Lesley Africa, conducted a site visit to ascertain if we qualified for PUM. Wesgro then sends you the CV of an expert in the field you require, and, if you approve, Wesgro pays for their air ticket, while you cover accommodation, transportation, food and beverages.” PUM expert, Nihada Lazarevski from the Netherlands, provided expertise regarding compliance for ISO standards and export expectations. “Nihada analysed the business as a whole and met with our manufacturer,” explains HarrodJonathan. “She assisted in implementing GMP (Good Manufacturing Practice) standards, assisted with SOPs (Standard

Operational Procedures), EU requirements and implemented a documentation structure with our systemiser, Miranda Govender. “We are now changing our packaging to give it export credibility and have combined Nihada’s guidelines with those of the CTFA (Cosmetic, Toiletry & Fragrance Association).” SalonCare has seen such significant growth since the PUM intervention (combined with the PowaLife programme conducted by consultant Sheraz Rayban), that it has moved into larger premises at the Beacon Business Park in Milnerton.

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017

■ Elemis expands footprint: In 2016, Luxury British spa brand Elemis entered 14 new countries, including Oman, Saudi Arabia, Poland, Bulgaria and Hungary, taking its total footprint to 85 countries worldwide. ■ Surprising sauna study: A new study from the University of Eastern Finland (tracking men’s health over 20 years) found that those who used a sauna four to seven times a week had a 66% lower risk for dementia and a 65% lower risk for Alzheimer’s disease. ■ Brows key to expression: New research has found that eyebrows are key to decoding emotions, and the most expressive part of our faces. Professor of Neuroscience Dr Javid Sadr conducted research into the role eyebrows play in face recognition, in partnership with cosmetics brand Benefit, at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. ■ Imbalie buys LeefSPA: The Imbalie Beauty Group has acquired the LeefSPA in Randburg, Johannesburg, from Media 24. The spa was developed by Leef Magazine editor Christine Ferreira. LeefSPA will be converted into a PlacecolSPA, but will still offer the Comfort Zone skincare range.

The LeefSPA in Randburg

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industry news

11

Bella Lash now in SA

J

ohannesburg-based Nerina Moodley recently concluded negotiations to become the sole distributor in South Africa for Bella Lash USA. She is also an accredited Bella Lash educator. “My training course took place in December at the company’s head office in Salt Lake City, Utah, and covered lash anatomy, health and sanitation guidelines, eyelash application and aftercare practices,” says Moodley. Keen to bring about change in the South African eyelash extension industry through superior training and products, Moodley identified Bella Lash after conducting extensive

Accolades pour in for BTL During 2016, BTL Aesthetics, manufacturer of leading non-invasive devices for the medical aesthetics industry, received six awards in the US and eight globally. This marked a record-breaking year for BTL Aesthetics in terms of awards for its non-invasive body shaping, skin tightening and cosmetic gynaecology devices. “We are thrilled that our nextgeneration, smartly designed devices have received this kind of industry recognition,” said John Ferris, US Marketing Director for BTL Aesthetics. “Anyone looking to trim, tone and tighten this year should know that devices from BTL Aesthetics are highly regarded in the industry and among top physicians.” BTL Aesthetics won awards from the following industry organisations: The Aesthetic Show; Aesthetic Academy; Aesthetic Everything; MyFaceMyBody; The Aesthetic Guide; and the Aesthetic and AntiAging Medicine European Congress (AMEC). Winning devices were BTL Vanquish ME; BTL Exilis Elite; BTL X-Wave; and BTL Intima.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

research and testing many different products. “Bella Lash is one of the few lash companies that offers unique patented products, as well as superior training. Its goal is to promote the eyelash industry by offering the highest quality and most innovative products at a lower price, to help new students get into this fast-paced section of the beauty industry. Bella Lash believes that making the extension process more efficient means that extensions can be done faster and for less money, drawing even more consumers to the market. The company was founded in November 2011.”

Moodley has already put out feelers into the local market, and reports that the response to Bella Lash has been ‘phenomenal’. Bella Lash South Africa is located in Fourways, Johannesburg.

News in pictures

South African distributor Evolution Cosmetic recently hosted Veronica Harris (left), international education expert for cosmeceutical brand, DermaQuest, in Johannesburg. Harris conducted training sessions and introduced new products, namely the B3 Youth Serum and the Hibiscus Flower Mandelic Peel. She is pictured above with Evolution's Victoria Wagner.

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017


industry news

12

Adeline Star triumphs

T

he Syneron Adeline Star has won the Best Anti-Ageing Treatment category at the Australasian Face and Body Awards. Says Jacques Pretorius of Syneron Candela distributor, Radiant Healthcare: “Last year Syneron collaborated with ASAP Skin Products to create ‘Clinical 360’. The ‘Clinical 360’ package included the Adeline Star Full Face and Neck Rejuvenation treatment, a range of ASAP’s skincare products and their Micro Plus device. Prior to putting this package on the market, trials were conducted and amazing results generated from the combination of these treatments. “ASAP Skin Products entered

‘Clinical 360’ into the Best Anti-Ageing Treatment category for the annual Australasian MyFace MyBody Awards and won. Syneron Candela ANZ also won/received highly commended for a couple of other categories as well.” Pretorius notes that in addition to Adeline Star, Syneron-Candela has developed a new line of Adeline products, based on the company’s patented elos technology and bi-polar fractional radiofrequency technology. They are: Adeline Non-Invasive Body Contouring; eSTyle Multi-application Platform for Hair Removal, Pigmentation and Winkle Reduction; eLase (hair removal); and eSpa.

Nel’s new venture

Mii in party mode

Popular make-up blogger, ‘Marlize’, owner of the Kandy Kane Makeup YouTube Channel and Blog, presided over the launch party of Mii Cosmetics, hosted by distributor Poise Brands at its head office in Bryanston, Johannesburg recently. A UK professional make-up brand, Mii Cosmetics is targeted at salons and spas looking to increase their retail turnover by offering make-up products.

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017

At the launch party, ‘Marlize’ demonstrated the Mii products by doing different make-overs, such as ‘working moms’, ‘natural’ and ‘out on the town’. Said ‘Marlize’: “Working with the Mii products was such an experience for me as I was delighted by the amazing coverage application, the wonderful pigments and the dewy look that you can achieve. There is so much to play with in the Mii range.”

Yvette Nel, a nail professional with 14 years of experience in salons, sales, marketing, education and distribution, has founded Trend Mi Life, a company that offers lifestyle products as well as consulting services. “I am hoping to align with beauty/ nail salons and spas in need of inspiration and growth, to upskill their staff and to assist in activating their clientele. “As slimming and wellbeing is my main focus, I offer products from JVL (Just Victorious Lifestyle). I personally have had great slimming results with these products. My plan is also to take beauty and slimming to highly pressured corporates by arranging wellness/beauty days for their staff members,” explains Nel. In addition to JVL, Trend Mi Life will also offer Skinny Tan, Cannabinoid (hemp) oil; and IMAN Cosmetics, designed for women of colour.

online at www.probeauty.co.za


business tips

14

Ask the experts Our beauty industry experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.

What does the term – ‘the Democratisation of Luxury’ – mean and how can I tap into this trend to attract new customers into my spa?

T

he growth potential for aesthetic companies to focus on consumer segments other than the traditional top 1% of the population is increasing exponentially. The rise of emerging markets has been a key defining feature in this trend, and is particularly apparent in the BRICS countries (Brazil, Russia, India, China and South Africa), which have become

the destination of choice for many luxury products and services. With their growing economies, BRICS countries have seen a rapid increase in the number of new ‘very rich people’ and ‘very rich-behaving consumers’, thus creating the fastestgrowing luxury market in the world. Along with the increase in disposable income comes the increase in consumers’ buying products that are priced at twice the rate of normal inflation rates as measured by the Cost of Living Extremely Well Index (CLEWI). The term ‘very richbehaving consumers’ and their buying habits is a phenomenon known as ‘the Democratisation of Luxury’. Some traits that characterise these consumers include: • The rapidly growing middle class, that is feeling optimistic, is richer and wants to trade up and look successful. • Women who work harder, marry later and are more successful and empowered than ever before. • A segment who believe in the following mantra: ‘You are what you wear/ what you drive/how you look’. • Consumers who access luxury for pleasure and demonstrate this by frequenting high-end shopping malls. • A large market of

mass consumers who want to own a bit of what symbolises the ‘better life’ of the happy few that drives an individual to go beyond their needs, while liberating aspirations where luxury is consumed at its best. By appealing to the emerging middle market, luxury brands (and high end spas) in South Africa now have access to larger numbers of potential clients, and they will probably face less initial competition, since traditional incumbents offering luxury products or services have likely ignored this portion of the population. The term ‘luxury’ is not solely reserved for products that are extremely expensive, but products or services not necessarily or traditionally available to the broader masses before, but which make life easier, more seamless, enjoyable and consumable. Also called ‘visas of social distinction’, prestigious brands and experiences elevate the buyer through an exceptional experience. By making luxury more accessible, businesses such as aesthetic practices and delux spas can continue to grow on the basis of consumers’ dynamic, iterative drive for social recognition and their democratic right to happiness and hedonism. PB Banking sector specialist, Sonja van Vliet, has 25 years of experience. She is a specialist in building all aspects of customerfacing businesses that includes the implementation and prioritisation of a holistic, group-wide customer strategy.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Nouveau Contour South Africa Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to joanna@probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017

online at www.probeauty.co.za


business tips

17

Insider

Insider, our exclusive business round-up, polled salons and spas in South Africa to track business in January 2017.

Insider Spa

January is never the best of months for the spa industry in terms of treatment business, as clients spend all their money over the Christmas season and then struggle to get through January. The economic situation in South Africa is clearly worse in 2017 as this January the vast majority of spas saw a reduction in treatment business as compared to the same time last year. One spa experienced good occupancy during the first week of January and then it slowed down completely. One of the spas that experienced an increase attributed this to a successful promotion, while another offered pool treatments in January to good effect and their guests chose higher priced treatments. Surprisingly though, retail sales in several spas saw an increase in business compared to January 2016. This was due to regular staff training on selling skills, product knowledge, and clients stocking up on skincare and weight control products after the summer months. Another spa run supplier incentives that kept pushing staff to sell retail. AVERAGE We asked spas what TREATMENT percentage of their clientele ROOM in January were male, and OCCUPANCY the average was 48%. Not surprisingly, massages are the most popular treatments with male clients.

51%

Insider Salon

January 2017 was a very bad month for salons, both in terms of treatment business and retail business. At least two salons reported that it had been their worst month ever, while most other salons attributed the bad business to the holiday season and to the fact that clients were really ‘watching their pennies’. Other salons experienced challenges with issues of staff on leave. It stands to reason that if there were fewer feet through the door in January 2017, then this would also adversely affect retail sales. Salons have a much lower AVERAGE percentage of male clients than TREATMENT spas, at an average of 8%. The ROOM most popular treatments for OCCUPANCY males are waxing, manis, pedis, massages and IPL. Most salons polled agreed that they would love to grow the male market. PB

36%

The month in numbers

27

% BETTER

4

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN JANUARY 2017 COMPARE WITH JANUARY 2016?

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN JANUARY 2017 COMPARE WITH JANUARY 2016?

69

71

% BETTER

9

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN JANUARY 2017 COMPARE WITH JANUARY 2016?

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9

% SAME

% SAME

% WORSE

0

% BETTER

% SAME

20

% WORSE

91

2

% BETTER

% WORSE

25

% SAME

73

% WORSE

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN JANUARY 2017 COMPARE WITH JANUARY 2016?

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017


business tips

18

Marvellous Millennials

The number of Millennials who have treatments, massages, manicures and pedicures at spas is on the rise. Debbie Merdjan puts the focus on the Millennial spa-goer.

A

Millennial, loosely defined, is someone reaching adulthood in the early 21st century. They are between the ages of 18 and 35, confident, outspoken, opinionated and not scared to do things their way. They are very aware of the environment, of politics, of human rights and ethics. Millennials will be found in coffee shops, attending protest marches, studying, working and reading, doing volunteer work and saving the planet. They are fashion and trend conscious. They’re multi-faceted and an incredibly interesting generation. They are also very much into self-care. They know about balance; work hard and play hard. In the beauty industry we need to look after them and give them what they want. They may be new in the workplace and not have a huge amount of money. They may also be so driven, working in a frenetic environment, that they do not have that much time. Which means you need to offer treatments specifically for this market – well priced, at times that suit them, and sometimes, that are fairly speedy.

Health conscious Millennials are generally healthy too. They cycle, they run, they go to the gym. They want their skin and body to look perfect. They’ve grown up in the ‘no wrinkles’ age. Millennials are aware of looking after their skin, moisturising and staying out of the sun. Your staff should be able to easily help them with the right retail products.

App-aware

to listen to their music with earphones whilst having a treatment, so don’t be offended.

Rewards Millennials have also grown up with rewards. Ten coffees and you get a complimentary one. Think about doing the same with treatments. Ten facials and you get a free manicure, or similar. Five massages and a retail product as a reward. PB

Millennials love their Apps. They’ve grown up with technology. If you have a beauty app, or if you make it easy for Millennial customers to book and pay online, they are sure to do this. And, a bit like a health App, if you make it simple for them to track their treatments, they are bound to do so. They will probably want

Curiousity A Millennial is likely to ask you what is in the product. They want to know that the ingredients are healthy. They are aware that manicurists should wear masks to protect themselves from fumes. They are a fair generation, concerned not just with themselves but with the people who work for them or with them. If you give them a cup of tea before or after the treatment, they are likely to expect a herbal tea. If it’s water, add some mint or lemon. Something natural and healthy.

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017

Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the Camelot Group. She has been in the industry since 1982, started Camelot International Health & Skin Care Education in 1987, and opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997.

online at www.probeauty.co.za


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business tips

21

Ahead of the curve

Today is the new age of business owners, who envision and co-create groundbreaking innovations to drive the beauty industry forward, writes Lauren Gibson.

W

ikipedia defines innovation as the following: ‘Innovation can be viewed as the application of better solutions that meet new requirements, needs, or existing market needs’. We all know the saying: ‘Everything is forever changing’. But how do we ensure that we embrace innovation in our businesses when these changes occur? Due to the many factors that affect trends and changes in our industry, it can sometimes be hard to jump on the bandwagon and embrace these innovations in your business. It can often be overwhelming to decide what you should and shouldn’t embrace in your business, as the innovation needs to speak to your vision and mission statement and really fit into the DNA of your brand.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Starting point A great place to start when it comes to implementing innovation is to look at your suppliers and business support from the brands you offer in your business. What new equipment, products and ideas are they willing to offer or share with you? How do they ensure they are servicing you in the best way possible? Have you asked your customer what would excite them and if they would be willing to try it in your business? Sometimes your closest clients are your best test team.

Generating value Business innovation is the creation and adoption of something new that generates business value. This includes new products, services, or processes. An example of business innovation is ensuring you have the latest product offerings on your shelf. This is critical as it shows the consumer that you are

ahead of the game and an expert in the industry. According to visioncritical.com (a website sharing innovation statistics), 63% of customers like it when a manufacturer creates new products. And, they are more likely to purchase these products within two weeks of them being released into the consumer market. So don’t delay in introducing these new innovations into your business. Being passionate and having a sense of urgency about making innovation a focus in your business will ensure it outperforms your competitors. It can also generate new markets by creating improved customers’ experiences. By creating products and services that people value and cherish, by effectively using technology and ensuring you are up to date on trends – you will create a fresh breath of innovation in your business. So think and act differently to make the change that your consumers are looking for to ensure increased value. This will make you stand out as a differentiator. PB Lauren Gibson has worked for Dermalogica for nearly four years. She has been an educator, sales brand consultant, and, more recently, the regional manager for Cape Town. Her passion lies in up-skilling people, seeing the potential in businesses and unlocking that potential and constantly learning to reignite her love for the industry. E-mail laureng@ dermalogica.co.za

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017


business tips

23

The right fit Ayesha Rajah unpacks many innovative ways to market your salon or spa to assist you in choosing the appropriate strategy for your business.

T

he first area I want to address is affiliate marketing. This is a term that is really trending at the moment, and almost all big brands are going full throttle into this kind of marketing. But why, I hear you ask, and what is it all about? In a nutshell, the definition of affiliate marketing according to www.entrepreneur.com is: ‘A way for a company to sell its products by signing up individuals or companies (affiliates) who market the company's products for a commission.’ It is primarily used for the purposes of digital marketing, or, to be more specific, internet marketing, to drive traffic to your website for lead generation and conversations. This form of marketing could potentially open your business to an untapped market if you choose your affiliate partner correctly. Conduct extensive research and interview the company/individual that you intend to sign on. Ensure that they have a good online reputation and that they are a trusted brand. What works well for our industry is affiliating with fitness companies, celebrity personal trainers, hair salons and clothing brands. Affiliate marketing works through various channels, including organic and paid-for search engine optimisation (SEO) (PPC – Pay Per Click advertising), e-mail marketing and content marketing. In some instances,

online at www.probeauty.co.za

affiliates use less orthodox techniques, such as publishing reviews of products or services offered by a partner.

Content marketing Another form of marketing being used extensively is content marketing. You might have heard of it, or you have a vague idea of what it is, but you have no idea about who to ask exactly what it means. So, here we go: Content marketing is dispensing content through various ways that add value and are very helpful to your market. Definition from Forbes: ‘Content marketing is a marketing technique of creating and distributing valuable, relevant and consistent content to attract and acquire a clearly defined audience – with the objective of driving profitable customer action’.

When I asked my web developer how I could increase the organic ranking of my very new website on google, his reply was: ‘Start a blog’. Yes, that’s the easiest way to start content marketing. This will have a definite impact on SEO, and provide additional content for your social media platforms. It also builds client relationships and trust.

R Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017


business tips

24 Here are a few other ways that this can be done: • Videos; • Infographics; • Product reviews; • Memes; • Podcast; • Interviews (use a celebrity or expert); • Guest bloggers.

E-mail marketing ‘E-mail marketing is a way to reach consumers directly via electronic mail. Unlike spam, direct e-mail marketing reaches those interested in your business’ area of expertise. The information is sent out more like a laser-guided missile than a bomb. No matter what you’re selling, it is a way to reach thousands of potential customers directly, at a relatively low cost, according to Brick Marketing. This form of marketing is probably the least challenging to execute and tends to deliver the best ROI (return on investment). My suggestion would be to start with a newsletter which focuses not only on your monthly promotions but on some behind the scenes look at your company. Include information and images about your brand that would connect with your client base on a more

emotional level and that keeps your salon/spa on their mind. For example, any training or events your team has done, or therapists’ achievements etc. One thing to bear in mind is that although this form of marketing is targeted at your clientele, avoid sending details of bikini waxing promotions to male clients, and, vice versa, don’t send info about back and chest waxing promotions to your female clients. What is fantastic about this marketing style is that you can keep the cost relatively low by using free services like MailChimp, which allows you to send a variety of e-mail marketing.

sides, as in most instances the brand ambassador ends up getting the better end of the deal. Here are a few goals that I have previously set on different programmes: I specifically wanted an infant Instagram page to grow to approximately 200 followers. We required diverse content to build brand authority for a newly launched treatment, as well as needing traction and awareness built around an event taking place at my spa. Lastly, we identified that we needed to tap into a different customer base. It goes without saying that choosing the right brand ambassador is crucial, as not only does their reputation come into play, but you need to Brand ambassador programme ensure that the ambassador suits your Many of the world’s big brands make brand identity, and, most importantly, use of brand ambassadors to get their whether you can see yourself working name out there, spread awareness and long term with this person. There gain a new customer base. This form of needs to be a meeting of the minds; marketing could be hugely successful you want your ambassador to get or could go horribly wrong, the trick is involved in ways that are authentically to plan, track the outcome and make meaningful to them. Most importantly, adjustments accordingly. trust your instincts. I always Setting clear goals as to advise that you have at what you want to achieve least one face-to-face It is best is imperative. From meeting, prior to personal experience setting terms. initially just to try one you need to ensure Monetary or two forms of marketing, that it is a win-win compensation is situation for both not always the to see what works for case and I have your market and what is offered brand manageable, and then ambassadors anything from to grow from there. monthly treatments to products, to media exposure, including being a guest blogger. Give the ambassador a voice to be heard, provide guidelines, but let them run with it. Ensure that a good feedback system is in place to track goals or adjust your strategy to achieve success. It is best initially just to try one or two forms of marketing, to see what works for your market and what is manageable, and then to grow from there. PB Ayesha Rajah, MD of A&I Importers and owner of Urban Bliss Wellness Spa, has been involved in the spa and skincare industry for more than 20 years. Rajah also facilitates training for Phytomer, Priori and SkinDoctors.

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017

online at www.probeauty.co.za


ALISHA RAMOS FROM ARTISTIC ALLISON BAKER FROM IBD STAV DIMITRIADES FROM TWINCARE INTERNATIONAL


spa focus

26

All out Thai When Lizél van der Sandt decided to open a spa at the Trinity Village Shopping Centre in Randpark Ridge, she was determined to create something really different. Her many trips to Thailand provided the inspiration, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

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s someone who is involved in developing and consulting to spas and salons, Lizél van der Sandt had always wanted to open a Thai spa. “I’ve probably been to Thailand about 20 times since 2005. Every time I plan a holiday, I always consider other destinations and then just end up going back to Thailand. It really inspires me, and, during each trip, I visit spas and experience Thai treatments. “While planning my new spa in Randpark Ridge, I decided to realise my dream of going the Thai route. My motivation was fuelled by the fact that there are so many spas opening up all over the place these days that you

really need to do something to stand out in the market,” explains Van der Sandt. She goes on to point out that Thailand has a strong spa culture. “People from all corners of the world flock to Thailand to replenish their body and mind using ancient herbal remedies, often in exquisite settings. That’s what I wanted to recreate – a 5-star spa experience.” The first impression of the Royal Orchid Thai Spa is that of spaciousness and a tour reveals that this is indeed a large facility. In the roomy reception area, a wooden statue of a Thai lady smiles at you in greeting. Directly behind reception is a hair salon, which currently houses five hairdressers and a nail tech who uses the Angelic Nails brand.

Spa at a glance • Owner: Lizél van der Sandt • Manager: Palesa Nhlapo • Opened: September 2016 • Size: 350 square metres • Number of treatment rooms: 9 treatment rooms (including 3 couples’ rooms) • Hydro facilities: Rasul, flotation tank, hydro baths, steam rooms

Lizél van der Sandt

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017

online at www.probeauty.co.za


spa focus

27

“My rationale for including a hair salon with nail services at Royal Orchid was to offer guests a one-stop shop,” notes Van der Sandt. “The spa also offers waxing, threading, brows and lash treatments, microblading, reiki and thread vein removal services.”

Sanctuary Once you walk past the hair salon the atmosphere immediately becomes serene. A long corridor lined with giant photos that depict the scenic splendour of Thailand leads to a relaxation area decked out with cushions and artefacts from Thai markets. All the spa’s therapists wear authentic Thai uniforms that were purchased in Bangkok. Several treatment rooms are equipped with mattresses (sourced from Puri Thai) that lie on the floor, as befitting the Thai massage tradition. The Royal Orchid Thai Spa has several hydro facilities, such as a Rasul chamber, a flotation tank with blue LED lights, hydro baths in the couples’ rooms and steam rooms in the change rooms. Van der Sandt is also planning to install a Vichy shower. A deluxe manicure/pedicure area with three stations leads onto an outdoor relaxation area complete with pond and fountain. Van der Sandt reveals that, since the spa opened in September last year, she has had a lot of corporate groups visit the spa. “The Rasul chamber, for example, is very spacious and therefore ideal for team-building. We also have a lot of regular guests who visit us every week.”

Therapists All Royal Orchid therapists are fully trained in the Thai way. “In amongst my South African therapists, we currently have one therapist who comes from Thailand and are aiming to have four full-time Thai therapists in the next six months,” Van der Sandt explains. She purposely set out to create a simple treatment menu, which has both 60-minute and 90-minute versions of traditional Thai massage. The menu also includes other massages like Swedish, back, neck & shoulder, foot, deep tissue, hot stone, aromatherapy and pregnancy massage. Facials, using South African brand, Nimue, are also offered at the spa. “The majority of our business is massage and body treatments (including scrubs), as well as pedicures. Our spa packages are proving very popular – both half day and full day. I’ve purposely kept the treatment prices affordable, especially when compared to other high-end spas,” concludes Van der Sandt. PB

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017


spa focus

28

Out of sight, out of mind Walking into a spa your first impression is usually one of health, beauty and wellbeing. But do you know what is lurking in the dark? How clean is your favourite spa really? asks Linda Duvenhage.

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n the exploding marketplace of health spas, their mantra should be clean, clean and clean. Overlooking this rule can lead to ruin. Without making concerted efforts to keep the spas sanitary for clients and employees, owners could wind up with major problems, including bacterial infections, lawsuits and unwanted media attention. The warning by the World Health Organisation regarding antimicrobial resistance, with the focus on antibiotic resistance, has magnified the issue of sanitation and resulted in a make or break situation for all spas in the industry, from large destination spas to entrepreneurial one-room facilities. Although cleanliness is common sense, the methods needed for proper sanitation and disinfecting may not be, depending on the type of equipment used and the germs you are trying to fight. These include: athlete’s foot from

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017

uncleaned slippers; funguses from unsanitised towels and dirty nail clippers; bacterial infections from water-borne sources like Jacuzzis, steam rooms and foot spas; poor indoor air quality (inhaled by unsuspecting clients) due to mould build-up in shower heads, shower grouting and silicon. All the abovementioned areas should be of major concern. With this laundry list of concerns, it may seem impossible to keep your entire spa sanitary on a daily basis, but it is a non-negotiable part of running a successful spa.

Communal aspect Spas use communal instruments and equipment, and skin can be nicked or broken during some procedures, like manicures and pedicures, which expose the instruments to blood and funguses. Sanitising equipment, such as nail clippers, is a critical part of

maintaining healthy nails, thus preventing gross contamination and fungus from spreading. These funguses can also spread over to other nails or your skin, and, over time, cause permanent damage to your nail or nail bed. Funguses are multicellular living organisms and they reproduce by means of spores which are spread through the air and survive on surfaces. Mould is the non-scientific name for many types of fungus and they do best in warm, proteinrich environments. Poor ventilation leads to higher humidity levels and condensation, leading to mould growth. Small spores are released into the air, thus contributing to poor indoor air quality. These spores are so small that they can be inhaled into the lungs of humans. This makes shower head sanitation extremely important, as well as having a mould-free shower stall. Mould can also be found under floor tiles or in grouting or silicone.

online at www.probeauty.co.za


spa focus

29 Human element

Dirty linen Another point on this laundry list of concerns is the linen. All linen and towels used in the spa or salon should be washed between users. We all have bacteria on the surface of our skin, in our nose and in our gut. They are often harmless, but some can cause infections, particularly in people with skin problems and wounds. Having a popular treatment available like a pedicure station with a foot spa can be the breeding ground for bacterial infections that can affect clients, leaving them with ugly sores on their legs that can linger for months. Sanitation of these jets should take place between users. On average a toilet seat has 50 types of bacteria per square inch, less than your kitchen sponge. Even though a dirty toilet is very unsightly it is highly unlikely you will catch something from it. But what about the bacterial and fungal infections which spread by means of mould build-up, or from the relaxing bubbles in your Jacuzzi? Cleaning the inside of your Jacuzzi by emptying and refilling it with clean water is not sufficient. Even with adequate chlorination, a potentially

dangerous bacteria known as Legionella still breeds and spreads from your piping system. This is due to the Biofilm that grows and clings to the inner side of the Jacuzzi pipe walls, preventing the bacteria from being flushed away. By turning on the tub, air bubbles rise to the surface, burst and shoot bacteria into the air. Bacteria are a vastly diverse group of organisms, some prefer moderate temperatures, while others enjoy temperatures hot enough to suppress or even kill others. Bacteria all need oxygen, temperature and food for growth and mostly dark, moist environments. Some bacteria can be airborne and inhaled by humans, just passing a bubbling Jacuzzi. Legionnaires’ disease can be contracted by inhaling these airborne water droplets containing Legionella bacteria. Symptoms include headaches, fever, chills and a lack of appetite. Respiratory symptoms, such as a dry, hacking cough, only develop as the disease progresses. Spa pool folliculitis (an opportunistic bacterial infection of the skin) can also develop within hours to a few days after bathing in warm water.

Apart from the pathogens that can naturally be found in water, humans also introduce their own share of germs when they relax in a Jacuzzi. The average bather has about a tenth of a gram of faeces in his gluteal fold, a nice way of saying ‘butt crack’. That means that, with five people in the tub, you can have a tablespoon of poop in the water. Beside the grossout factor, you can run the risk of transmitting disease, without safe levels of disinfectant. It is best to shower before slipping into a Jacuzzi, because personal care products, such as lotion, make-up and sunscreen, use up the disinfectant in the water, meaning it is less able to kill bacteria. It only takes three people to jump into a Jacuzzi for the disinfectant level to drop. The most important prevention is for people to observe hygiene and put your potential client’s mind at ease by marketing yourself as a sanitary spa. Hygiene is two-thirds of general health and wellbeing, so repeat after me…clean…clean…clean! PB Linda Duvenhage is an accomplished hospitality professional specialising in hygiene and cleaning. She worked on board ultra-luxury cruise ships for 12 years, gaining extensive experience in the implementing and maintaining of sanitation and hygiene procedures and standards. In South Africa she became operational manager for a hospitality outsourced cleaning company. E-mail: linda@trojanfacility.co.za

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017


male grooming trends

30

Man in the mirror Each year in our annual survey on male grooming, we report that this sector of the market is steadily on the rise, and 2017 is certainly no exception, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

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ccording to Glen Summers, Sorbet Man educator and training manager for the Cape Town region, South African men are much more into grooming these days than ever before. “There is quite a lot of pressure placed on men to look good, especially considering all the magazine articles on the topic and adverts featuring well-groomed men with great haircuts. It’s clear that the ‘beer boep’ is out of fashion. Men are getting into shape and retrieving that

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017

"There is quite a lot of pressure placed on men to look good, especially considering all the magazine articles on the topic and adverts featuring well-groomed men with great haircuts."

six-pack instead of reaching for the six-pack in the cooler box.” Summers believes that many South African men aspire to look and dress like well-known metrosexual celebrities such as Janez Vermeiren, Maps Maponyane, Chris Jaftha and the Top Billing presenters. The Amani Spas Group reports that it has seen an increase in male treatments. Says Julie Van Rooyen, chief operating officer of Amani Spas: “In 2015 our average male guest cover percentage was 25.8%. This increased to 28.5% last year and

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male grooming trends

31 so far in 2017, 31.6% of our guests are male. We’ve found that male clients now seem to be more open to home care recommendation advice and are a lot more comfortable in the spa environment. “Most of our male clients fall into the 40 – 60 age group. In terms of most popular treatments, massages are still a firm favourite.”

Anti-ageing Carol Boag of The Glasshouse, winner of Professional Beauty’s inaugural Male Grooming Salon of the Year Award (2016), notes that while interest in anti-ageing skin treatments is not really a new trend for her male clientele, it is certainly a fast growing market. Says Boag: “Year on year, this desire for men to look and feel younger increases as new products and treatments are constantly introduced and marketed well to a very captive audience. We’ve also noted that there is an increase in interest in antiageing aesthetic treatments such as Botox, fillers and peels.”

Natalie Ruwers, general manager of Sorbet Man, has a slightly different view: “I think that ageing skin is the one thing guys still need to focus on a bit more. Although we have seen an increase in men concerned about ageing skin, it is not as a big concern compared to ladies.”

Target market Ruwers notes that a number of new Sorbet Man grooming bars will open across South African in 2017. “This will add to our current seven Sorbet Man stores, six of which are in Gauteng and one in Cape Town. We definitely have a certain profile we target, but we also want every guy to feel welcome and relaxed when they come in for a treatment. We don’t focus on one particular race group or demographic, rather we focus on different client profiles we want to target. “For instance, there is ‘The Working Warrior’, who is the breadwinner, the decision maker, the numbers cruncher and the dedicated family man. Then we have ‘The Big R


male grooming trends

32 Shot / The High Roller’; this is the dealmaker, heartbreaker and high end whiskey drinker. The metrosexual we define as ‘The Blood Diamond’ – the revolutionary guy who knows the trend and dresses the trend. Lastly, we have ‘The Fitness Freak’, who is all about the game – playing it, not watching it and who will take a leg wax before a beer any day.”

All about hair Ruwers continues by saying that the biggest part of Sorbet Man’s business is its signature haircuts and hot towel shaves. “However, all our other treatment offerings are increasing month on month as our guests experience other elements of grooming.” Summers concurs that haircuts are definitely important. “They have to be good and suited to the individual.” Van Rooyen notes that changes to the Amani Man treatment menu have been made over the last year to accommodate demand for hair-related services. “We have introduced a hot towel shave treatment and now also offer hair salon treatments, which includes gent’s cuts. Although our spas are designed to have a unisex appeal, we do have barber chairs in the hair salon section.” According to Summers, there is a big trend towards body grooming, for example, threading. “Guys are getting rid of the mono-brow and opting for a more shaped eyebrow. Body waxing is also popular – from legs to chest. I have noticed quite a large amount of requests for these services, as well as nose and ear waxing. Guys actually request this service in store.”

Smooth option According to Andrew Best of Best Lasers, the distributors of Alma Lasers in South Africa, men are wanting healthier, smoother bodies. “The ‘metro man’ trend won’t be going out of the window any time soon and men are feeling the same pressure as women to look like

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017

the best versions of themselves,” he continues. “To stay current and achieve this, men are going for selective treatments, of which laser hair removal might just be the most popular. Removing hair by using laser is a quick, safe and virtually pain free experience that is suited for all skin types as well as any hair type, be it coarse or fine. “What’s even better is that this treatment can be used all year round as it can be applied even on tanned skin, leaving you tanned and hair free, perfect for that beach holiday. Laser hair removal is also the perfect solution for active men as it will leave cyclists and swimmers completely hair-free, enhancing the way they practise their favourite sports.” Best notes that it is possible even to treat dense areas of skin, such as beards.

Facial hair

Summers comments that beard trends are definitely still very strong. “One can see this through all the beard products that are available on the market these days. I have seen a beard growth oil being marketed lately.” Boag adds: “Beards still seem to be the current craze. I’m not sure how long the whole ‘hipster phase’ will go on for, but until then I guess the beard lives on.” Janine Thomson of Lamprobe SA notes that as a result of shaving, men tend to suffer from ingrown hairs (i.e. pseudofolliculitis barbae) on their faces. She explains: “Ingrown hairs occur when hairs are unable to penetrate through the pilo-sebaceous duct due to a build-up of keratinised cells surrounding the opening and can be accompanied by inflammation R

online at www.probeauty.co.za


male grooming trends

34 Aesthetic procedures

and infection, scarring and postinflammatory hyper-pigmentation. “While enzymatic exfoliation and chemical peels can effectively treat the build-up of hyper-keratinised cells, this alone will not address the condition. What needs to be established are the contributing factors towards the hair growing inward under the skin. Tight collars, incorrect shaving techniques, tweezing etc. are causes that need to be addressed. “The therapist should establish

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017

whether the problem is mild or severe. In severe cases a more permanent solution may be recommended to rid the area of hair so as to reduce the inflammation, and the continuous pimples and papules. Laser, IPL and electrolysis will over a period of time (normally on average eight treatments) reduce the hair, destroy the bacteria and in the case of light therapy, repair and regenerate the skin. The skincare professional can advise on the best treatment protocol or combination treatments.”

Naomi Olivier of Hitech Lasers, distributors of the Lumenis range of non-invasive aesthetic devices, notes that for a long period, the market for non-surgical aesthetic procedures was historically dominated by female users. “This market is slowing down but on the other hand, a new market with a significant upward trend in aesthetic treatments for male clients is developing. This has resulted in a significant increase in aesthetic practices that are dedicated to cater for the male aesthetic client.” Olivier reveals that, according to statistics available from the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery (ASAPS)* with 21,000 participating aesthetic practitioners, male clients’ preference for non-surgical treatments are: IPL (Intense Pulsed Light) skin treatments, followed by laser hair removal, and lastly, neurotoxin injections (2005-2014 statistics). “The research data indicates that men – apart from the high demand for laser hair removal – seek fractional non-ablative skin resurfacing treatments to decrease acne scarring, treat traumatic scars and to treat facial photo-ageing. Men are also now more sensitive and aware of their appearance and have become increasingly body conscious. There is a clearly discernible increase in the need for body contouring and slimming treatments. “Being a niche market, male aesthetics requires a different approach that warrants specific treatment considerations. For instance, there are gender-specific differences in the facial structure between men and women. Males have more facial muscular movement than women and their skin is thicker with higher collagen content, but their skin is more sebaceous. Factors like these must be taken in consideration with all male aesthetic treatments. Due to social stigmatisation and career issues, men prefer not to have any procedure with a long downtime,” concludes Olivier. *Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology. Volume 9 No 12, December 2016

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male grooming trends

36

Bookings Boag reveals that most bookings made by her male clientele are either booked the day before or on the day. “A lot of our regular clients do make another monthly appointment when they are in with us, but generally guys do tend to be a bit more spontaneous than ladies in terms of their bookings. Manis and pedis are definitely in our top selling list and in fact, we have some guys that come in once a week

for these. It’s clear that guys are just as conscious about how their hands and feet look as the ladies. “We’ve found that men are quite easy to sell to. They really take your advice on board and want to improve the way they look and feel. I think this is also partly because nowadays, guys are so much more exposed to all aspects of male grooming and know that using good retail products is a necessity,” comments Boag.

Male-specific ranges

"Regardless of age, men also have a higher collagen density than women. Basically, men’s care products need to be as robust as their lifestyles."

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017

The growth in male clientele in spas has triggered some skincare brands to create ranges targeted specifically at men. One such brand is SIX Sensational Skincare. Says MD Marisa Dimitriadis: “Salon and spa demand, coupled with consumer demand, prompted our new SIX Man range. We have made all our products twoin-one, which men love. No mess, no fuss.” Dimitriadis’ team of scientists researched formulations for men for

about 18 months, taking into account the structural differences between a man’s skin and a women’s. “Besides having facial hair, testosterone stimulation causes an increase in skin thickness, which accounts for why a man’s skin is about 25% thicker than a woman’s. In addition to being thicker, a man’s skin texture is tougher. Regardless of age, men also have a higher collagen density than women. Basically, men’s care products need to be as robust as their lifestyles. “We also researched male buying patterns, such as: what men like and don’t like about skincare, how men age and how they look after themselves. In addition, we looked at the changes in the male skincare market place.” It’s worth noting that, according to a research study conducted by Global Industry Analysts Inc. entitled, ‘Men’s Grooming Products: A Global Strategy Business Report’, the global market for men’s grooming products is projected to reach a whopping US$43.6bn by 2020 (www.strategyr.com). PB

online at www.probeauty.co.za


treatment review

39

LED lights the way A newcomer to the benefits of LED skincare therapy, Debra Rheeders visits DermaFix in Johannesburg to experience a facial treatment incorporating the brand’s LED Masque device.

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lways keen to try new things, I was very eager to learn about how LED (Light Emitting Diode) technology affects the skin. As I filled in the DermaFix Client Consultation Card, educator Rozlyn Williams explained that LED involves the use of a device that emits light of various wavelengths to activate different responses within the skin.

“As the light varies in wavelength, so the colour of the light emitted changes,” she continued. “Typical colours used may include green, red and blue. Red light helps stimulate the production of collagen and elastin, while blue light is best used for calming acne flare-ups. Green light is ideal for sun damage concerns as it stimulates nutrient uptake into the skin whilst evening out skin tone. “The DermaFix LED Masque has all three modes, as well as four others – yellow, purple, light blue and white – thus offering the therapist a wider spectrum of skincare concerns that will benefit from the use of the in-clinic protocol.” Williams stressed that the beauty of the device is that it is totally customisable to what the therapist wants to achieve with each particular client. It can be

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used as a standalone protocol, or as a complimentary add-on after microneedling, laser or chemical peels. To target my specific skin concerns (hyperpigmentation, dehydration and anti-ageing), Williams opted for the green light. She began my treatment with the MD Prescriptives Mandelic Cleanser, which is AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) based and encourages cellular renewal. Williams then toned my skin with DermaFix Revitalising Toner, using a friction technique to free up the redundant skin cells. For exfoliation, she applied the DermaFix Pumpkin Peptide Masque; it contains papain and smells delicious, literally like Pumpkin Pie. Williams stated “This is an anti-oxidant-rich, thermomasque that offers re-texturising benefits whilst resurfacing the skin and encouraging cellular turnover”. The masque was left on for 10 minutes; at first it felt tingly and then simultaneously hot and cold, stimulating a circulatory response. Williams removed the DermaFix Pumpkin Peptide Masque with damp compresses and applied DermaFix ACC Hyaluronic and ACC Copper serums to feed and nourish the skin. She then fitted the LED Masque over my face and switched on the green setting. “Green light helps to inhibit tyrosinase and slows down melanogenesis – the process of

pigment formation. The LED Masque is left on for 20 minutes, during which time the therapist has the option to perform a neck and shoulder massage,” commented Williams. Once the LED Masque was removed, Williams applied DermaFix PowerDerm, a moisturiser targeting environmentally induced pre-mature ageing. I loved this treatment as prior to the facial, my skin had felt somewhat dry while post-treatment it felt nourished and had a radiant and hydrated appearance. PB Contact DermaFix: 0861 28 23 23 or visit www.dermafix.co.za

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017


skincare

40

Proud to be South African! More and more salons, spas and medical aesthetics clinics are opting to have top quality South African skincare brands as part of their treatment and product inventory. Joanna Sterkowicz looks at some of these brands.

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uring the development of the products and the 15 years of research that it took to produce TheraVine, the discovery that oligomeric proanthocyanidins (OPCs) are 50 times the strength of Vitamin E and 20 times the strength of Vitamin C with regards to their levels of anti-oxidants, proved the inspiration to the use of these gems from nature. “Anti-oxidants in skincare products are vital because they help repair past damages to the skin, as well as assist to prevent future damage caused by free radicals,” says Lisa Smit, TheraVine creator and CEO of L.S. Enterprises. “We obtain our grapederived ingredients from the South African indigenous Pinotage cultivar, but also from different grape cultivars such as Merlot, Chardonnay, Cabernet, and Sauvignon Blanc, all which contain high concentrations of grapeseed polyphenols. “The by-products from these world class grapes, which have been specially nurtured and harvested, consist of grape seeds, grapeseed extracts, husks, grapeseed oil and vine leaf extracts and form part of our unique South African healing processes and have resulted in us achieving a world class health and skincare range.” TheraVine’s success has grown well beyond the borders of South Africa and its popularity and ever growing demand is evident by its presence in over 250 exclusive spas and salons throughout the country. This is addition to the appointment of leading international distributors to spas, salons and top-tier retail stores in Poland, Bulgaria, Malaysia, Singapore, Brunei, New Zealand, Namibia, Angola, US, Canada, Belgium, Luxemburg, Netherlands and Australia.

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017

According to Smit, the main functions of TheraVine skincare include fighting the processes associated with ageing and inhibiting the generation of all types of free radicals. “TheraVine products act as detoxifiers for skin exposed to pollution, cigarette smoke, long exposure to the sun, all kinds of stress etc. In addition they inhibit fatty acid oxidation and help to keep cell membranes in good condition, while protecting the genetic material, thereby cutting down mutation rates.” Other benefits are the stimulation of collagen and elastin synthesis in the skin, which keep it firm and elastic. TheraVine also inhibits elastase activity and the activity of various enzymes involved in inflammation – thereby soothing the skin and combating the ageing process. Since the birth of TheraVine, Smit also developed and founded the TheraNaka spa brand in 2005, merely one year after launching TheraVine.

Phyto power The Phyto-effective product range from the Kalahari Lifestyle brand, which is exported to 11 countries, stands out in the market because it provides instant results, according to Carina Franck. “This effectiveness is due to certain ‘hero’ ingredients,” she comments. “Kalahari Melon Seed Oil has moisturising, regenerating and restructuring properties, due to its high content of essential fatty acids (it contains 50 to 70% linoleic acid). These essential fatty acids contribute to the integrity of cell walls. Kalahari Melon Seed Oil adds suppleness and beauty to the skin because it plays an integral role in regulating the hydration and restructuring of the epidermis. The oil content of the seeds is exceptionally high and because it also contains glycosides of palmitic, stearic and oleic acids, it assists the anti-oxidation process of the skin. “Kigelia Africana Extract comes

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skincare

41 Cosmeceutical focus

from the fruit of the sausage tree, Kigelia Africana, which is widespread across Africa and cultivated throughout sub-Saharan Africa. This extract is anti-bacterial and has a calming and soothing effect on dry, irritated skin presented in skin conditions such as psoriasis and eczema. Studies have found Kigelia’s active ingredients include steroidal saponins and the flavonoids, luteolin and quercetin. These phytochemicals help strengthen and stabilise the collagen fibres that

support the skin, thus producing a firming and tightening effect. It also has super moisturising, rejuvenating and anti-ageing capabilities. By reducing fine lines and wrinkle depth, promoting skin elasticity, naturally lightening pigmentation, reducing blemishes and increasing circulation to the skin, Kigelia Africana Extract induces a smoother younger-looking skin.” The latest products from Kalahari Lifestyle are Phyto Rich Moisturiser and Vita-gel Mask.

In 2004, Spa Professionals cc, the cosmeceutical research and development company, expanded with the inception of DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care Brand. Says DermaFix MD, Ursula Hunt: “We offer advanced ranges specialising in anti-ageing, hyperpigmentation, acne, scarring and stretch marks, embracing new proven technology as it develops. Our skincare solutions and in-clinic treatments with clinically tested ingredients provide measurable, scientific results for the correction, prevention and protection of the skin. DermaFix represents more than 30 years of continuing extensive research, development and time-proven product use. We are focused on

Cashmere & Co - Luxurious. Lifestyle . Collection -

What leaves your skin as soft as cashmere?? Our Cashmere and Co Body Balm infused with our signature “cashmere” fragrance derived from Fynbos essential oils, gives you 24 hour hydration for soft beautiful skin. This luxurious balm can be used during foot treatments, body massage treatments or at home. Professional sizes available for salon use. A proudly South African product. www.cashmereandco.co.za

R


skincare

42 Aromatic appeal

providing clients with innovative formulations and effective solutions for superior skincare at affordable prices. “Three years ago DermaFix expanded to include the MD Prescriptives product range, offering a scientific approach to skincare and utilising research to unlock the power of cosmeceuticals for the demands of an ageing, hyperpigmented and acne prone population. Youthful, supple, clear skin is a sign of good health, which is supported by the MD Prescriptives superior at-home skin care range. Our physician strength formulations, based on sound science and technology, can be used alongside the DermaFix Product Range for measurable results.” Hunt notes that while DermaFix makes use of many hero ingredients, one that stands out is Mandelic Acid. “This is a key ingredient found within a variety of our advanced formulations. "Mandelic Acid is an AlphaHydroxy Acid (AHA) and derived from the hydrolysis of an extract of bitter almonds. It has been studied extensively for its uses in treating common skin problems such as photo-ageing, irregular pigmentation and acne. DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care was the first to launch this superior ingredient into the South African skincare market in 2006.”

The brand is distributed countrywide through a vast network of stockists including dermatologists, skincare professionals, doctors and medi-spas. These clinics make use of the DermaFix protocols that consist of a variety of advanced modalities, including MT microneedling, advanced skin resurfacing and enzymology facials to name but a few. “We have started to infiltrate the international market with distribution on the African Continent, including Namibia, Zimbabwe and Nigeria as well as overseas in New Zealand and an online distribution in the UK," says Hunt. Newest products include the DermaFix Pumpkin Peptide Masque and the DermaFix InTensorLift.

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017

CSpa Aroma Wellness is an all-natural product which is based on aroma purist principles incorporated into modern sensory journeys. Several ranges fall within the CSpa Aroma Wellness brand – Face: Uplifting Cleansing Range, Rebalancing Cleansing Range, Hydrating Range, Anti-Age Range; Bath Care Range; and Body Care Range. According to the CSpa team, Aloe Vera is enjoying a revival as the ‘millennial ingredient’. “The profound benefits of this cornerstone extract are integrated in the essence of CSpa Aroma Wellness. Aloe Vera works synergistically and contains many minerals vital to the growth process and healthy function of all the body's systems,” explain the CSpa team. CSpa Aroma Wellness can be found in spas and salons across the African continent, in Botswana, Swaziland, Malawi, Kenya, Mozambique and Zimbabwe. The newest product in the CSpa Aroma Wellness range is the limited edition CSpa Shimmer Body Butter which is velvety-smooth butter, with a fresh tropical scent.

Soft touch Distributed by The Spa Warehouse, Cashmere & Co is a fusion of historic knowledge, quality African ingredients and modern sustainable practices that come together in a luxurious lifestyle collection suitable to use in the spa or at home. R

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Says Cashmere & Co creator, Jacoline Wentzel: “Our range consists of a professional hand and foot range, professional body wrap and massage products, as well as a home range for your customer to follow up your treatment at home. “Being a spa consultant and qualified spa therapist myself, with more than 25 years of experience in the spa and beauty industry, I designed a range that is suitable to use in any type of spa. It will envelop all five senses, while leaving your skin as soft as cashmere and your mind calm and rested. Cashmere

& Co is a spa range designed by a therapist for a therapist. We have such great ingredients growing right on our doorstep, which are not only therapeutic to the body but is sustainable. So we created three signature fragrance blends by using fynbos essential oils that grow only in the Western Cape region. The fragrances are Cashmere, Velvet and Silk.”

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017

Intelligent ageing Originally developed for the medical market, Nimue eventually made the logical progression into skincare.

The brand has just launched its platinum line – Age Intelligence (a.i) and scored a coup in securing Danish Supermodel, Helena Christensen, as the face of a.i. According to product chemist, Dr Juanita Killian, the a.i range took inspiration from the OMICS Science of Ageing, a group of studies done to determine exactly how factors such as age, environmental factors and lifestyle affects skin function and appearance. These are known as visible signs of ageing. “This range, which comprises a Day Cream, Night Cream, Face Serum and Eye Serum, is recommended for consumers of 45 years and older, with environmentally damaged skin. It targets existing signs of ageing such as dryness, dehydration, wrinkles, loss of elasticity and sagging skin.” Key active ingredients include: Chicory Root Extract to repair and hydrate; Hydrolised Myrtle Leaf Extract to improve and maintain a better functioning skin barrier; Calendula Flower Extract to increase skin tone and elasticity; Colloidal Patinum and Acetyl Tetra-peptide-17 to increase collagen and elastin production; Albizia Julibrissan Extract to protect and repair; Sorghum Bicolor Stalk Juice to instantly tighten the skin and Acetylated Glucuronic Acid to smooth wrinkles and hydrate. “Nimue has developed a hybrid delivery system with two components, the first being Polarised Water, which allows for even distribution and penetration of ingredients, while Liposomal Vesicles enable the R

online at www.probeauty.co.za


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delivery of greater levels of active ingredients into the deeper layers of the skin,” notes Dr Killian.

Six-pack Marisa Dimitriadis, founder of SIX Sensational Skincare believes that everything about the brand stands out in the market. “The name, the packaging and the innovation and technology our brand uses is the most up to date in the industry and revolutionary. We also don’t make use of one specific source of ingredients, such as the sea, fruit or plants, rather we use the best ingredients for the results we are looking to achieve.” Recently SIX launched its skin peeling system, which includes two very powerful and effective peels. This year will see its TEEN collection launched, together with the Age Reverse Moisturiser that is full of active ingredients to make a visible change to the skin. SIX currently has 150 stockists in South Africa and is exported to Mauritius. Namibia and Mozambique are in the pipeline.

Continental sophistication The ideology behind MatsiMela is to constantly be creative with a brand that is distinctly African and sophisticated. Say the MatsiMela team. “Our range of products is constantly growing and developed with the ethos of caring for yourself and the environment. We use ingredients like pure Marula Oil, Baobab Seed Oil and other active ‘African’ ingredients.” Eight ranges fall within the MatsiMela brand: Rooibos & Honey; Marula Nut; Baobab Seed;

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017

Sandalwood & Vanilla; Warm Orange & Ginger; Litchi & Rose; Ginger & Lime; and Red Berry, MatsiMela also offers a variety of Amenity and In-Room Spa ranges. MatsiMela Home Spa distributes to its franchised retail stores located across South Africa, as well as around 380 salons and spas. In addition, the brand exports to the UK, Australia, Swaziland, Namibia and Zimbabwe. “We have some exciting plans for 2017 with a brand new spa range being launched with targeted treatments and products,” conclude the MatsiMela team.

21 countries, including South Africa, since its global launch in 2002. Its enhanced formulation, which contains the breakthrough ingredient PurCellin Oil, also makes it highly effective for numerous other skin concerns, including ageing, dehydrated and sun burnt skin. Following the global success of Bio-Oil, Lipidol was launched in 2014. The range consists of two wash-off products – a Cleansing Face Oil and Cleansing Body Oil – that wash the skin without stripping it of its natural oily layer;

Oil therapy Bio-Oil and Lipidol, both distributed by Evolabs, are among South Africa’s proudest exports. Both brands are manufactured and sent off to the rest of the world from the Union Swiss factory in Boksburg, Johannesburg. Sold in over 109 countries across five continents including the UK, the US and Japan, Bio-Oil has become the No.1 selling scar and stretch mark product in

online at www.probeauty.co.za


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47

and four leave-on products, an After Shower Oil, Sunscreen Oil (SPF 20), Overnight Face Oil and After Shave Oil.

Following a regime One of the most exciting discoveries now utilised in RégimA’s skincare products is a specialised fermented bacterium. RégimA’s Jacqui Faucitt elaborates: “Information regarding results of human trials using a new, exclusive probiotic which uniquely activates ‘gene expression’, fitted perfectly into the RégimA ingredient profile. We are proud to be the only company in South Africa to be using this new breakthrough ingredient, and to be one of the only companies in the world to date.” Faucitt believes that formulating the most exciting, powerful, life changing products is key to the continued success of a brand. “The products must achieve beyond anything else, and this is accomplished by using actives at maximum efficacy. Marketing will only hold water for a short time, unless results are achieved and maintained.”

online at www.probeauty.co.za

She notes that RégimA remains exclusive to salons, spas and doctors, remaining loyal to therapists. “This ensures that the consumer is protected by purchasing the correct products for their skins and not wasting money, and the livelihood of the therapists is maintained as clients will always come back for more when they achieve their goals and get continuity of care.” RégimA has two ranges – the Classic Range, which has worked extremely well since 1996, and the newer, multiple award winning, High Technology RégimA Zone Range. “RégimA Zone pushes the boundaries when it comes to innovation and anti-ageing excellence,” comments Faucitt. The RégimA brand is available globally via approximately 10,000 salons, spas, doctors, laser clinics and anti-ageing clinics.

Synergistic actives optiphi has three focused ranges – Classic, Active and Body Curve – targeting specific skin concerns that all

lead to the visible signs of aging. These ranges have been based on extensive research and validated formulations using ingredients and actives carefully selected to work in synergy with each other, reinforcing the actions and results of these skincare products. Packaging is airless and lightless to safeguard that the high quality actives remain stable. An innovation of optiphi’s research and development team is the highly effective optiphi Time-Controlled Diffusion Retinol. This derivative of retinol allows for the active ingredients to diffuse into the skin in a timecontrolled manner, reaching the target area and allowing for best results. PB

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017


product focus

48 Close shave

Perfect for sensitive skin, the Philips 7000 Shaver series features comfort rings with a unique microbead coating that enables the shaver to glide effortlessly during every stroke. With its AquaTec Wet & Dry seal, you can opt for a quick yet comfortable dry shave or a wet shave with gel or foam. The product wears the Philips Green Logo.

011 471 5000

Gentlemen prefer… With an ever-increasing number of men venturing into beauty salons or spas and concerned about their appearance and grooming needs, more and more professional skincare brands are offering male-centric products.

Getting defensive

The pHformula U.V. protect SOF 50+ provides superior protection against harmful UVA/UVB rays, whilst reducing inflammation produced by infrared radiation. Gentle on the skin, this unique formula especially for the face includes beneficial ingredients to help prevent skin dryness. It is ideal for outdoor activities and sports.

082 338 2368

Always alkaline

Male clients often suffer from Pseudofolliculitis Barbae, a condition caused by ingrown beard hairs. This causes problematic eruptions leading to darkened areas on the facial skin. DermaFix Conditioning Alkaline Wash is a professional protocol that may be performed alongside a client’s usual shaving routine to help soften the skin and minimise regrowth.

0861 28 23 23

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017

online at www.probeauty.co.za


product focus

49 Natural number

SIX Man is ideal for the get-up and go-getter and has highly active ingredients, which target men’s skincare problems, such as razor burn, skin irritations, razor bumps, shaving irritations, sensitive skins and of course antiageing. The range includes three unique, two-in-one products: Men’s Shaving Face Wash; Men’s Moisturising Cream; and Beard Oil.

011 312 7840

Obliging oil

With anti-burn and anti-itch properties, the Lipidol After Shave Oil will be a welcome addition any man’s shaving regime. Supplementing the skin’s natural oily layer stripped away by shaving, the After Shave Oil helps eliminate postshave rash. With no synthetic dyes or scents, it is suitable for sensitive skin and is noncomedogenic.

021 201 1310

Invigorating gel

Biopure OxyGel from Ericson Laboratoire is a light, melt-on-the-skin gel that refreshes and revitalises dull and tired skin. Its anti-pollution, anti-ageing formulation promotes the dynamics of skin oxygenation. The product also offers an instant and long-lasting moisturising effect. It is ideal for preparing the skin for a smooth and even shave.

011 783 9817

Active alga

At the heart of the ThalgoMen range is an alga with unprecedented energising and regenerating powers: Algue Bleue Vitale. Featuring unique regenerating and energising powers, this highly concentrated micro-alga quenches the skin with minerals and trace elements. Rich in key vitamins and amino acids, it delivers an energy boost to skin cells.

011 880 3851/0

Fabulous facial hair

Beard tinting for men has never been easier with RefectoCil. Choose between four shades – Light Brown, Graphite, Natural Brown or Black. Or, mix to achieve your desired colour. Apply directly onto the beard. Leave for between five and 10 minutes and wash off. Looking your best has never been easier.

082 575 6567

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017


hair news

51

Crowning glory Tress-a-licious news from the hair front.

HSOTY announces winners Twincare International’s Hairstylist of the Year (HSOTY) award-winners are: Hairstylist of the Year – Arion Bezuidenhout; The Boys – Charne Steenkamp; Avant Garde – Daniel De Beer; Photographic Stylist of the Year – Thelma de Klerk; Young Blood – Elia Lopes; The Team – DNA Salon; and The Best Show – Paul Fox. 011 305 1600

Rapple on the move Due to expansions in the company, product range and staff, Rapple Salon Products has moved from its offices in Imperial Terrace Building in Bellville, Cape Town, to Brackenfell, on the corner of Teejay and Taurus Roads. The new premises facilitate Rapple’s warehouse, training centre, showroom and offices all under one roof. 021 981 0032

Colourful mousse Available in six, ready to apply, leave-in shades, Indola Color Style Mousse is ideal for colour refreshment in between tint applications, or correcting/ neutralising unwanted tones, or enriching natural tones with gentle styling ingredients. The mousse includes extra heat protection for a really natural hold. 011 617 2615

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Au naturel The Natural Therapy range from Ladine has been specifically created for the natural girl who wears no weaves, wigs or braids. This product is ideal for the girl who wants to embrace her natural curls and keep her hair in great condition. 011 617 2615

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017


medical aesthetics

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Private practice It is of the utmost importance that medical aesthetics practitioners understand the underlying factors that may influence their risk for a medical malpractice claim. Ulundi Behrtel focuses on specific legislation relevant to the industry.

S

outh Africa’s Constitution1 is the supreme law of the land and no other law can have precedence over it. Practitioners should, therefore, know the rights contained in the Bill of Rights2 and understand how these rights may impact on the delivery of services by healthcare professionals. A ‘profession’ is generally defined as a paid occupation that is commonly regulated by statute (i.e. law) and that involves prolonged training and a formal academic qualification. In South Africa, professions in the healthcare sector are governed by different statutes, e.g. the Health Professions Act3, the Pharmacy Act4 , the Nursing Act5 , and the Allied Health Professions Act6. In order to practise in a particular profession, persons need to comply with certain requirements and subject themselves to the authority of a regulatory body established in terms of the legislation. One of the duties and powers of the regulatory body is to maintain the standard of professional conduct among members of that particular profession. This is usually achieved through approving curricula for training and providing guidance to practitioners on what constitutes acceptable conduct when practising the profession. The regulatory body also has a disciplinary function to sanction a practitioner in instances where the practitioner’s conduct does not conform to the acceptable standard.

National Health Act Legislation that is very important to the healthcare practitioner is the Constitution of the Republic of South Africa, 1996. 2 Chapter 2 of the Constitution. 3 Health Professions Act, No. 56 of 1974. 1

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017

National Health Act6, and the regulations published in terms of the Act. This Act provides inter alia for patient informed consent for a healthcare service, medical confidentiality and the keeping of records. Ignoring these principles, e.g. not obtaining proper informed consent before treating a patient, may thus result in the practitioner having to face both a civil claim as well as a professional conduct hearing following the same incident.

Consumer Protection Act

As with the Health Professions Act and the National Health Act, the introduction of the Consumer Protection Act8 also holds far-reaching implications for the healthcare practitioner. One of the nine fundamental consumer rights in terms of the Act is the right to disclosure and information. Thus a practitioner is obliged to provide a consumer (i.e. the patient) in advance with information about the healthcare services,

including the cost thereof. Since information about costs is also a requirement for valid informed consent, non-adherence to this requirement by the practitioner may, therefore, lead to the patient lodging a complaint with the National Consumer Commission (in terms of the Consumer Protection Act), the professional regulatory body (in terms of the

Pharmacy Act, No. 53 OF 1974. Nursing Act, No. 33 of 2005 6 Allied Health Professions Act, No. 63 of 1982, as amended

National Health Act, No. 61 of 2003, as amended 8 Consumer Protection Act, No. 68 of 2008, as amended

4 5

7

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business tips

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Health Professions Act), as well as refusing to pay the account of the practitioner in terms of civil law.

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Other Acts

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Similar to the legislation discussed above, the Children’s Act9 , the Medical Schemes Act10 and the Medicines and Related Substances Act11 contain provisions that practitioners need to be aware of. Some of these provisions impose certain duties, obligations and responsibilities on the practitioner in Children’s Act, No. 38 of 2005, as amended Medical Schemes Act, No. 131 of 1998, as amended 11 Medicines and Related Substances Act, No. 101 of 1965, as amended 9

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Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017

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54

respect of his / her interactions with a patient; ignorance of, and failure to, adhere to these provisions will put the practitioner at immense risk of the patient instituting legal action or filing a complaint. Practitioners also need to adhere to principles developed as part of our common law system. These principles may be found in judgments of our courts or general rules governing societal order. In the interest of good order in a society, members may be required not to kill or harm each other, hence outlawing murder, assault, fraud, and the like. If any member of a society breaks these rules, he / she is subject to criminal prosecution and punishment. Our courts have ruled12 that treating a patient without that patient’s informed consent constitutes criminal assault. A practitioner that does not obtain proper informed consent before treating a patient may, therefore, be required to defend a criminal case, a civil case and a professional conduct hearing for the same incident. In view of the aforementioned and the fact that one incident can lead to multiple types of action being instituted against the practitioner, many practitioners have resorted to practising ‘defensive medicine’, which in itself poses a risk to the practitioner.

medicine’ can typically be described as the practice by a practitioner of ordering extensive and often unnecessary tests in order to minimise liability if accused of malpractice. Although practising defensively may place a practitioner in a better position to defend a possible criminal, civil or professional complaint by a patient, it also increases the practitioner’s risk of falling foul of the ethical rule13 against over-servicing. Practitioners are reminded that their clinical decisionmaking must at all times be based on the best interest of the patient14.

Measures to minimise the practitioner’s risk

‘defensive

In order to minimise their medico-legal risk, medical aesthetics practitioners should adhere to the following measures: • Ensure that at all times you have the necessary clinical skills and competence to practice in the field or branch of your profession; • Always act within the relevant branch or profession’s scope of practice; • Be caring, honest and explain what can or cannot be done for the patient. Practitioners need to manage a patient’s expectations realistically; • Comply with your legal and professional responsibilities. This requires that practitioners are aware of and stay up to date with the relevant legislation, ethical rules and

Castell v De Greef 1994 (4) SA 408 (C) Ethical Rules of Conduct for Practitioners Registered under the Health Professions Act, 1974, published

under Government Notice R717 in Government Gazette 29079 of 4 August 2006, as amended 14 Rule 27A of the Ethical Rules

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017

Over-servicing The

phenomenon

of

12

13

guidelines pertaining to their area of practice. In addition, practitioners need to fully understand the underlying principles of concepts such as informed consent and confidentiality; • Ensure that you maintain adequate professional indemnity insurance and product liability insurance at reputable insurance companies to cover any potential claim for damages; • Develop appropriate patient administrative systems; • Implement a risk-assessment checklist and strategies to address and monitor areas of risk; • Always communicate clearly and properly with the patient; • KNOW your patient and know when to say ‘NO’.

Conclusion Benjamin Franklin stated: ‘Drive thy business or it will drive thee’. The secret to a successful practice can be found in proper labour law and human resource management (having competent and loyal staff), proper financial and business management (ensuring that the practice operates as a profitable enterprise) but most importantly, proper medico-legal risk management (patients are any healthcare practice’s most valuable asset). PB Ulundi Behrtel is a private legal consultant. She is a qualified attorney and has gained extensive experience in law and ethics in the healthcare sector over the past 23 years.

online at www.probeauty.co.za


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hair newsnews product

56 Magnanimous masks

Thalgo’s Fundamental Mask Treatments have undergone a renovation. Included in the range are the Ultra Hydra-Marine Mask (for thirsty skin seeking an SOS moisture solution); Deeply Nourishing Mask (for dry skin with diffuse redness); Absolute Purifying Mask (for combination skin); and Ultra Radiance Mask (for dull and tired skin).

011 880 3851/0

In the market Our round-up of new products and treatments.

Multi-talented cream

Wrinkles beware!

The Daily Vitamins DD Daily Defense Cream SPF 25 from Sans Soucis offers protection against oxidative stress, while supplying the skin with lavish moisture and high coverage. Stabilised Vitamin C counters free radicals, which are responsible for premature skin ageing. Vitamin E acetate smoothes out the skin’s surface.

The Black Pearl Instant Youth Effect Wrinkle Reducer gives ageing skin an instant lift as this quick absorbing serum tightens on contact, smoothing over stubborn wrinkles. Applied to the crow’s feet, nasolabial folds, fine lines and wrinkles, this product helps to tighten the appearance of your skin’s surface. The result is an instant youth effect for four to six hours.

082 560 0262

011 327 3440

African botanicals

Katavi Skincare products contain African botanical ingredients with unique compounds and high performing antioxidants. Extracts from the ‘Big 5 Superfruits’ of Africa – Kigelia, Baobab, Marula, Mongongo oil and Moringa – help fortify and hydrate the skin. The Katavi range specifically targets the noticeable effects of environmental stress on our skin.

011 466 7788

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017

online at www.probeauty.co.za


product news

57 Reversal of fortune

Veritable vine

The MelanoVine Skin Care Selection minimises hyperpigmentation and enhances radiance by utilising two cutting-edge melanosome inhibiting peptides, a combination of five active ingredients consisting of Advanced Hydrating Systems and Anti-Oxidant Phyto-Chemistry, as well as the nanoencapsulation technology of a revolutionary bilayer liposome.

Babor has released two products in its Reversive range – Anti-Aging Serum and Anti-Aging Overnight Mask. With its delicate texture, Reversive Anti-Aging Serum conditions your skin, while AntiAging Overnight Mask contains Telovitn, an active cell-protecting ingredient based on Nobel Prizewinning research that extends the life cycle of skin cells.

011 467 0110

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saahsp

58 South African Association of Health and Skincare Professionals

Cidesco Section South Africa

Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta

All about CPD Continual Professional Development (CPD) can be defined as the systematic maintenance, improvement and broadening of skills, and the development of personal qualities necessary for the execution of professional and technical duties throughout a person’s career in the beauty industry.

T

he above definition of CPD is intended to remain flexible enough to be relevant to all registered persons at all stages of their careers. The emphasis for meeting CPD is not on the acquisition of credits for the attendance of academic or theoretical course alone, but has been spread over three categories of activities, which would contribute to meeting the minimum CPD credits needed for the renewal of registration. Only a professional body can award CPD. (SAAHSP is the professional body for the health and skincare industry.) Only a professional body can register/accredit CPD points to training. Only a registered designated member can obtain CPD points. (A professional designation indicates registration of the individual with a professional body, and where relevant, the right to practise in a particular field of expertise governed by the professional body. This must be registered separately from a qualification and can be revoked in terms of rules and legislation. To become a registered member, visit www.saahsp.co.za, email the membership administrator on info@ saahsp.co.za and then look out for the Professional Membership application form.)

Benefits of the CPD Programme Participation in a CPD programme has benefits to you, as practitioner, the employer and the industry.

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017

In a fast growing, ever changing and highly competitive market where qualified therapists must compete for a shrinking group of clients, it is important that registered practitioners demonstrate their competitiveness through the ongoing participation in CPD. SAAHSP believes this should become a way of life. By committing to the CPD programme, you also demonstrate: • Commitment to a level of excellence; • Passion in your occupation; • Desire to constantly improve; • Interest in the developments within the industry in terms of products, services and business management; • Your competence as a therapist in running and/or contributing to the running of a sustainable business.

Benefits to the member The participation in the CPD programme keeps your registration current. This provides your employers, stakeholders and clients with a positive indication of your commitment to the industry, your business and your own personal development. Being up to date sets you apart and makes you highly desirable as a therapist – it instills confidence from your clients and employer. The use of the designation ‘Reg. BHS’ after your name is an indication of your status as registered practitioner. You are also able to use the logo on your business cards and in your business.

Benefit to the member’s employer Your employer knows that you are interested in the industry and that you

have a passion for your occupation. They are given the assurance that the advice, products and services you offer are up to date and current. Furthermore, they are also able to demonstrate to their clients that their therapists are leaders in the industry and are using the latest technology and thinking in their salon, clinic, spa, school, product house, manufacturer or distribution company. The employer is assured that the affiliation of the employee with the industry and professional bodies keeps them in touch with what is happening in South Africa and at an international level. The employer is able to rely on the professional input of practitioners because the compliance to these criteria is proof from an objective, credible source that their therapists are up to date, informed, passionate and committed to the industry.

Benefit to the industry The industry becomes self-regulated. Greater pressure will be placed on qualified therapists to be registered. This type of self-regulation means that standards of excellence are established and maintained and that the growth of the credibility and professionalism within the industry is guaranteed. Non- or under-qualified practitioners trying to enter the industry without these credentials will eventually not be tolerated by clients, stakeholders and potential employers. This will maintain the high standard of professionalism expected by clients during treatments.

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59

The Continual Professional Development cycle

CPD activity

Schedule of CPD activities

The process

How many CPD Points are required for Registered Practitioners? Registered Practitioners are required to obtain 60 CPD points over two years. One point is one hour of CPD. This allocation might be adjusted depending on the complexity and duration of a CPD activity. This is calculated over a twoyear cycle. After a cycle has lapsed, any points over the minimum required for the two years will be transferred to the next cycle. Compulsory CPD activities: you are allowed great freedom when selecting the activities for your CPD. However, the industry has agreed that the education and training component of the CPD is compulsory. A CPD calendar will therefore be set up by the industry professional bodies at the beginning of each year. You will need to ensure that you diarise the CPD activities and that you attend the activities that have been scheduled. Your participation will be recorded through the signing of the register. Failure to participate in these events will result in you being de-registered as a practitioner.

There are four categories of CPD activities, namely: Professional Development – these are any activities that contribute toward the development of the practitioner in relation to the industry. Personal Development – these are activities that contribute toward the development of knowledge and skills that are not directly related to Beauty, Health and Skincare, but that grow you as a person and as a professional practising as a qualified therapist. Education and Training – these include all education and training gained through SAQA accredited qualifications, short courses, certifications on products, seminars and conferences focused on content specific to Beauty, Health and Skincare. Participation as lecturer, facilitation or guest lecturer is also included in this category. Reading and Publishing – this includes the reading of articles in magazines, accredited journals, industry magazines, books and credible websites. It also includes the publishing of articles in the same.

Participation in the CPD programme is very simple, as indicated in the schematic above. PB

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Joining SAAHSP as a Professional Member or Corporate Member is as easy as 1-2-3. Contact us today to get your Membership Application Forms or download them from the website: www.saahsp.com

Cidesco Section South Africa

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017


Issue 13

Mar/Apr 2017

Green scene

Pantone Colour of the Year

Bonding session

Nail adhesive chemistry

Salon dude

Nail services for men

thenumbers’game

Scheduling staff


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welcome

Welcome A

s you can see, this issue of Nail File has been incorporated into the main Professional Beauty magazine. We have done this as an experiment to see if you, the readers, prefer this format of the Nail File supplement, as opposed to the standalone publication of the past. Please give us some feedback on this score. In line with the focus on male grooming in this issue of Professional Beauty, we include an article on nail services for men. Our resident Nail File experts provide solutions to the complex issue of how to schedule your staff fairly so as to ensure the efficient running of services in your salon. We also include articles on nail adhesives and resins, the Pantone Colour of the Year, a new nail salon in Pretoria called Tenfold, and on top young nail tech, Robyn Shannon. Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

What’s inside Nail File

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Industry News

Know your chemicals

Top Tech Talk

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Style Savvy

Trends

In the Market

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75

Ask the Experts

Salon Focus

Stay in the know

Pantone Colour of the Year

Scheduling staff

Sticky business

Men ‘nail’ grooming

Tenfold

Robyn Shannon

Product Hub


news

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NEWS Information at your fingertips Industry group gains traction Formed in the latter part of 2016, the Nail Techs South Africa non-brand related Facebook group now boasts over 3,000 members.

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ail tech and make-up artist Riana Botha created the group, with Xandia Greeff joining at a later stage to help handle administration. According to Botha, the idea behind the group was to create a network of nail technicians in South Africa who can advise, support and inspire each other in what seems to be a very competitive industry. “I believe the group has managed to generate a sense of unity among nail professionals in the industry, where struggling techs can turn to for help,” says Botha. “Our aim is to grow and unite the nail industry and empower entrepreneurs.

“Because we are a Facebook group, we do not need to charge membership fees. The aim is not to make money but to aid all those who might need help. We set weekly challenges for our members to encourage and stimulate their artistry, and have big suppliers and brands sponsoring the winners of these challenges. Our membership is growing exponentially on a daily basis.” Aspiring nail techs are welcome to join the group and are encouraged to forge their own careers and to become independent entrepreneurs. “This is all part of our continuous aim to unite the industry – nail techs, brands and educational institutions

– to improve the South African standard. It’s a case of, ‘alone you go fast, but together you go far’,” elaborates Botha. She believes that it’s important for South African nail technicians to have the knowledge and confidence to market themselves and their talent by showing off their skills on social media platforms like Facebook, Instagram and YouTube.

Gelish ‘dips’ into acrylic Sparkle Cosmetics, official distributor of Gelish and Morgan Taylor in South Africa, launched the Gelish Dip system on 23 February at the Sparkle Nail Academy in Illovo, Johannesburg.

Debbie Kayle

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Said Sparkle MD, Debbie Kayle: “Gelish Dip is a high quality acrylic powder system that does not require curing under a lamp. It offers nail techs a fast, odourless, no mess, no fuss application with a huge selection of colours to choose from, including cremes, glitters, shimmers, metallic and five French shades. All Gelish Dip colours match to Gelish and Morgan Taylor colours.” Kayle explained that Gelish Dip is

a specially formulated, finely milled acrylic powder that doesn’t require a brush on technique. The client literally dips her nails into the powder, after the Gelish Dip Base Coat is applied. An activator is then applied, followed by the top coat. In conclusion, Kayle urged nail techs to only go through official distribution channels when purchasing professional products.

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news

Tip Top returns to salons Iconic South African brand, Tip Top Nails SA, is returning to its roots – the beauty salon world – after years of only being available in the mass market retail sector.

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ip Top will relaunch with over 200 colours, 11 nail treatments, entirely new packaging and a revamped website. In addition, Tip Top has built a laboratory at its new premises in Midrand. Says Tip Top founder, Joan Kahn, “When Tip Top first started, we built our credibility though the salon world by being in a professional setting and offering quality products that produced results. “In 2006 we were approached by a leading mass market retailer to put our brand exclusively into their stores. We felt this was a good opportunity to expose our brand to a wider market and withdrew from salons. “Eventually, however, the retailer started restricting the number of colours and units that we could put on their shelves. So, in 2015 we left them. I then conducted research and found that many leading professional brands are now available directly from mass market retail stores and decided that Tip Top would be an exclusive salon brand.” As Kahn’s focus has always been on natural nails, she has never done enhancements. “However, we are introducing Gelwise, a heavier coverage, gel-like lacquer that does not require curing under a lamp. In April we launch Gel Transition, a top coat that can be put over any polish to form a gel concept.” Joan Kahn Kahn’s daughter, Cheri Kahn, is Tip Top’s cosmetic formulator and colour matcher. “Colour matching is a rare ability and Cheri is one of the few real colour matchers in South Africa,” says Kahn. “With my background in marketing and Cheri’s speciality, I believe we are the ideal team to take Tip Top to the next level.” As Tip Top has gone the e-commerce route, minimum quantity orders do not apply so salons can purchase exactly what they want. Consumers can only buy Tip Top online through a salon. For a small monthly fee, salons can become Tip Top affiliates, which will see them receive lower prices and two free colours a month.

Spa & Salon Solutions opens support centre Spa & Salon Solutions, the manufacturer of the Milk Solutions range of mani/pedi products and the distributor of Essie Professional in South Africa, is opening a support and training centre in Parkmore, Sandton, for clients.

Driekie Willemse

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017

Says Spa & Salon Solutions MD, Karen Ellithorne: “The aim of the centre is to offer more extensive training services to our clients, in both the Milk Solutions and Essie Professional lines. We chose the Parkmore location because it is central and the premises are spacious. Our training itinerary will be available online shortly.” Ellithorne notes that Driekie Willemse, who has 22 years of experience in the industry and was formerly an educator for Star Nail, has joined Spa & Salon Solutions as a sales representative. Willemse will look after the Pretoria and East Rand areas. “The opening of our training centre, as well as Driekie’s appointment, represents a significant expansion for our company as it gives us great potential to grow our brands. Following shortly will be the opening of our ms. nail bar, also on the same premises,” explains Ellithorne.

online at www.probeauty.co.za


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OPI launches ‘Fiji’ The OPI Fiji Collection was launched to the South African market on 17 February at an event hosted by distributor, The Prestige Cosmetics Group, in Parktown, Johannesburg.

OPI’s Bonieta Sonnekus and Jodie Forsyth

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vailable in Nail Lacquer, Infinite Shine and GelColor options, the Fiji Collection features 12 luscious island-inspired shades. OPI used the event to launch an exciting new incentive scheme for therapists, called ‘OPI Nail Nickels’. Said Leigh-Anne Wagner, GM for OPI: “Over the past year OPI didn’t really have an incentive scheme for stockists so we have now decided to give back to our spas and salons. Our new rewards programme, ‘OPI Nail Nickels’, is much like bank loyalty schemes such as eBucks and uCount, in that therapists earn points. These ‘OPI Nail Nickels’ points are then converted to a monetary value and can be spent anywhere.”

Schoon’s new book Face-To-Face with Doug Schoon Volume I: Science and Facts about Nails/Nail Products for the Educationally Inclined is now available from Amazon. The book contains factbased answers to questions posed by actual nail professionals. California-based Schoon is an internationallyrecognised scientist with a Masters’ Degree in Chemistry from UC-Irvine. Schoon, who is frequently referenced in articles that appear in Nail File, is a leading industry authority, known for his technical and regulatory work that has helped shape the beauty industry. He has authored several books, video and audio training programmes, as well as dozens of magazine articles about salon products, safety, and best practices for salon professionals.

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017


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news

QD Pro-design nails launches Award-winning Ukrainian nail artist, Alina Kuzmenko, has launched a new nail brand, as well as a training academy and shop in Highlands North, Johannesburg.

Alina Kuzmenko

“I

decided to launch QD Prodesign nails as I found that, while many famous brands are represented in South Africa, I ended up buying different products from various suppliers as I couldn’t find everything I wanted in a single brand. Some items even had to be imported, which was both expensive and time consuming. I soon discovered that other nail techs had the same problem.

“So it made sense to start my own brand that would not rely on any one company in Europe, Russia or America. Plus, we have the freedom to control the quality of each product range. We can constantly find innovative and top quality product without waiting for a ‘head office’ overseas to decide if and when South Africa can get it,” explains Kuzmenko.

All products are fully imported and come from ISO 9001 factories. “Sourcing product ourselves has cut out the middle man, thus allowing us to be cost-effective,” comments Kuzmenko. “We don't expect clients to do any expensive training before buying our products as support is offered all day and most of the night and I have many videos to help with product usage.”

Elements opens training academy Elements Nail and Beauty Concepts has launched a training academy in Benmore, Sandton, to offer courses on all hand, foot and nail treatments, including gel, liquid and powder and gel polish. Says Elements’ Sonette van Rensburg: “I feel that the South African nail industry needs upliftment in terms of standards and working procedures. Although I am the sole educator at the academy, I’m planning to bring in subject matter experts to offer training that complements my courses.” Van Rensburg has 28 years of experience in the nail and beauty industry; this ranges from running her own salon, to working abroad, to undergoing educator training in

London, Sweden and America. She is an ITEC qualified aesthetician and has her South African cosmetology accreditation. “I’ve deliberately created an actual salon environment at my academy, rather than a traditional training room. The pedicure bench and training tables have been designed to take into account the correct working heights and distances, so as to reduce cumulative trauma disorder for the nail technician,” she comments.

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017

Recruitment In terms of Elements’ recruitment division, Van Rensburg believes she has conceived a unique approach to recruiting. “I will create a complete professional portfolio for anyone who registers with me and this portfolio will then go online. In addition, prospective employers will be able to come to the academy so as to ‘test and try’ the prospective candidate’s skills,” she says.

online at www.probeauty.co.za


style savvy

Green fingers

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Calgel art by Lilian Lee

As the years go by, nail colours come and go and then make their way around again, from the softest of pastels to the brightest of vivid colours, with variations thereof. This year, for the second time since 2013, green bursts forth yet again as Pantone Colour of the Year.

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antone’s Greenery (15-0343) is not just any green but a zesty yellow-green shade. Who would have thought that this daring shade would be the fashion colour to be on trend with in 2017? But there’s no getting away from it, Greenery is all around us and more versatile than you think. Symbolic of nature, green resembles new beginnings and life – it’s refreshing, reviving, revitalising and re-energising. This life affirming shade induces feelings of reassurance and encourages one to draw a deep breath, reconnect and pursue one’s passions. Comparable to an artist’s palette, green is nature’s neutral and the perfect canvas as it harmonises with a spectrum of shades. Complementing all colours as they merge together like the petals of a beautiful flower enveloped in lush green leaves, green unites like a gorgeous colourful backdrop or painting of the great outdoors. Greenery pairs beautifully with just about any colour, from neutral Pale Dogwood and Hazelnut, to vivid shades of Primrose Yellow, Pink Yarrow or Flame, to cooler tones of Niagara and Island Paradise, to deeper shades of Lapis Blue and Kale. Even the pretty Pantone pair for 2016, Rose Quartz and Serenity, are a perfect match. It is a ‘transseasonal’ hue that provides a number of possibilities and colour variations. With a distinct display of boldness and vitality, Greenery is a hue that has been positioned front and centre as a chic, confident colour for Fan-appleistic nails. PB

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Go For The Glow

Mani.Q Aloe

Killer Stems

Crisnail art by Oksana van Tonder

Eden

Lime Ice

Bio Sculpture Gel art from Xandia

I'm So Swamped

Sometimes A Girl's Gotta Glow Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017


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business

Ask the experts

QUESTION: How do I schedule my staff’s hours effectively and fairly, ensuring they stay productive? EVELYN JANSEN

LEA CASTRO

If you want a successful salon, you need passionate, motivated staff who can keep up with the hours. As the most popular time for clients is usually before or after office hours, it is always better to have three or more employees (especially when your salon is in a shopping centre) and let them work shifts. The most important part of a salon manager's job is communicating effectively and making every employee feel important. Give your employees what they need, including regular training and workshops, as well as personal support. Each employee has different successes and challenges both at work and at home, so know your employees as people first. Reward your employees with small gifts when they reach their target.

Each salon has its specific operating hours which incorporate shifts if necessary. Clear standards of procedure within the salon’s protocol will ensure there is a good flow in your salon. Preparing upfront is essential to execute effective services. On a day when you are fully booked teamwork is essential – if one staff member is running behind schedule, another should automatically step in and assist. But the atmosphere in the salon should be one of peace, calm and helpfulness – not an attitude of ‘you’re going to owe me for this’. Even when the salon is not busy, each task or instruction should have a deadline and a time limit – push your staff to do more in less time as this enforces productivity. There are instances where your staff want to fit in an extra client or two and start at 07h00, or work later. As nail technicians they essentially write their own paycheck so allow them the freedom to do so. It is imperative that you take these small acts into account and be accommodating in return when they may require a bit of time off to take the kids to the doctor etc. For a win-win situation, you need to be flexible in order to maintain a

Evelyn Jansen van Vuuren is an award-winning nail technician who has been selfemployed for the past 15 years and has a home-based salon.

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017

happy staff environment Set goals and targets, run incentives and competitions to keep it interesting but most of all, make their place of work fun.

Lea Castro is the CEO of Looking Good LCN. Service excellence and empowering people remains her top priority.

online at www.probeauty.co.za


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business tips business

SONETTE VAN RENSBURG

YVETTE NEL

Managing your salon staff and scheduling their hours effectively can be quite challenging and turn into havoc if you don’t go about it in the correct way. It is so important to ensure that your staff’s working hours are scheduled accordingly, to ensure you get sufficient productivity from them. According to employment laws there are a certain number of hours that a nail professional is required to work in a day, week or month and it is important to adhere to those as best possible. In order to best serve your clients, consistent schedules must be maintained. If your salon only has one or two staff members and you are one of them, then your communication and scheduling needs to be closely planned between you. You will need to make sure you are able to accommodate your clients and their needs at all times, while considering each other’s skills, travel arrangements and personal commitments.

It should be a top priority to treat all staff members like humans and not machines, so make sure they have a lunch break. If the schedule is very full and a booking needs to be squeezed in, then okay it with the staff member to book in her/ his lunchtime. Fair working schedules are of utmost importance – especially if the salon is based in a busy shopping mall or if you just have long business hours. You can divide the hours into sections such as: early day 07h00-16h00; normal day 08h17h00; 09h00-18h00; late day 11h00-20h00, for example. Shuffle shifts every week so all staff members work all shifts. Ensure staff get at least one afternoon off and one day off at least during a month and adhere to Department of Labour requirements. Between every booking there should be a 15-minute time gap to close the retail sale, clean workstations and prepare for the next customer.

Timing: timing is everything, so know when your busiest times and days are. Skills: make sure you schedule the correct mix of staff depending on the skills and the treatments they perform, to make sure you have the right people to accommodate your clients’ needs.

Yvette Nel started out in 2002 as a passionate nail technician working with all nail systems. She has 14 years of experience in salon, sales, marketing, education and distribution.

2 New Colours Available

Systems: have proper systems in place. There are some great software systems available to assist you with scheduling your staff effectively. Overtime: make sure you account for any overtime worked – reward and remunerate accordingly. If you don’t, they won’t be so willing to work those additional hours when you require them to. Communicate: communicating with your staff regarding scheduling and making sure they understand is important in gettings their buy in, cooperation and commitment. Creating relationships: the relationships you build with your staff are so important to get the most out of them. Have a good, friendly open relationship with your staff, but be professional and treat everyone equally. Also remember to be fair when assigning new clients.

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the industry for 28 years. She consults with salons and spas and trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail technology.

We have moved! Please visit us in Midrand for exciting new training programs and product purchases. Contact us for more information.

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know your chemicals

Sticky business Sonette van Rensburg gets to grips with the chemistry of adhesives and resins.

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he professional nail industry uses advanced monomer adhesives (referred to as resins or glue) for adhering tips, silk, fibreglass wraps and acrylic dipping systems to natural nails. These all commonly contain the same key ingredient – cyanoacrylate – an acrylic resin derived from acrylic acid. This is an organic compound made from propene and ethylene during the process of refining petroleum.

Cyanoacrylate differs from other acrylic products such as the liquid and powder system, which polymerises when the two materials interact with one another. It is a fast-acting adhesive that cures and hardens when it’s exposed to moisture and air, forming long chains that create a strong, plastic web like structure that hardens upon exposure. Cyanoacrylate is often combined with other ingredients, which changes the viscosity, making it easier to handle

and apply product to the natural nail. For instance, it is used to add strength to the wrap system and works well with wrap materials such as fibre or silk, as it is thin enough to saturate into the fabric and adhere to the natural nail to create a strong, clear, flexible structure. The resin also dries quickly once an activator is applied, leaving no sticky layer behind, which means it can be buffed immediately to a high gloss shine or a colour coating applied on top. Resins are now also used for dipping systems, in combination with acrylic powders and a brush-on activator to create a stronger, longer lasting nail coating.

Easy soak off Cyanoacrylates are not cross-linked like other acrylic systems, so they break down and soak off easily and quickly in acetone. They are also more sensitive to alcohol, water and alkaline substances and can instantly polymerise when exposed to them, and can even cause what is called shock curing, making the product harden too quickly, turning it white and causing microscopic cracks to form.

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017

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know your chemicals

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Interesting facts

Professional nail products have been specifically designed for use on the natural nails, so don’t go running off to the hardware store should you run out of your regular professional nail adhesive.

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All adhesives are contained in airtight containers with small nozzles, protecting them from being exposed to moisture and air so as to avoid the product gelling up. Even though inhibitors are used to prevent this they can still thicken and harden when containers are left open. This moisture sensitivity is actually a positive advantage of the product, in that the moisture contained in the nail plate is just enough to react with wrap monomers and assist with adhering it to the nail.

Catalysts These are weak alkaline substances called ‘aromatic amines’ and used in wrap and dip systems to speed up the polymerisation process of the resin. Catalysts come in the form of spray and brush on activators, which instantly react with the resin to cure it in almost no time, causing a rapid chemical reaction between the catalyst and the resin, sometimes resulting in heat, which can be felt on the nail bed. The warming of the product is actually beneficial and will help to improve strength, but it should never cause an uncomfortable heat or burning sensation on the nail plate. Always use these products and all professional nail products strictly according to manufacturers’ instructions to make sure they are used correctly and to avoid any reactions. Spray activators should also be sprayed from the correct distance and always wear a protective mask to protect you from the vapours. Extraction systems are also very beneficial when working with any nail products. Remember that professional nail products have been specifically designed for use on the natural nails, so don’t go running off to the hardware store should you run out of your regular professional nail adhesive, as this could definitely lead to untold problems and service breakdown.

Internationally renowned product chemist, Doug Schoon, has compiled the following technical information about cyanoacrylates: Certain types of cyanoacrylates are used as tip adhesives and formulated differently. They are sensitive to moisture and work best when there is no air. Most set slowly or turn to a rubbery gel in the presence of air. When the air supply is cut off, the adhesive quickly sets. This feature is beneficial for the nail technician, allowing maximum working time and a quick set once the tip is properly placed. Thinner adhesives set faster, but this is not always good because extremely fast setting adhesives give lower strength. If you have a client whose tips just don't seem to hold, or they separate in a few weeks, try a slowersetting, thicker adhesive. Thin adhesives work best if the tip to nail plate fit is perfect. If there is a gap between the tip as there generally is with ski-jump nails, nails with missing sidewalls, and bitten or broken nails, then the thicker, slower setting adhesives will give the best retention. Thicker adhesives (gel adhesive) will fill in the gaps and irregularities and allow for a tighter bond. With gel adhesives, less is more. These adhesives usually contain dissolved methacrylate powder to give the bond more strength, especially in the gaps. Some adhesives contain special wetting agents, which help improve nail adhesion, strength and clarity. Since these adhesives are not cross-linked, they are affected by moisture. Clients who frequently wet their hands should be warned that all cyanoacrylates are moisture sensitive, and should be instructed to wear gloves whenever possible. This is true of both adhesives and wraps. Cyanoacrylate was actually invented by accident in 1942 by Dr Harry Coover. He was trying to create parts for gun-sights during WWII, but became frustrated when his new substance became stuck to everything it touched.

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017


trends

Men ‘nail’ grooming

Pic courtesy of Milk Solutions

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Gone are the days when men felt that it was ‘oh-so-not-macho’ to be doing the grooming thing. Sonette van Rensburg looks at male clientele in the nail salon.

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oman often get asked what it is about a man they like most and the one thing that always comes out on top are well groomed hands, with nails that are neat, tidy and clean. The same goes for the feet. Men no longer feel embarrassed, or less like a man, when making sure they are well groomed from top to toe. More and more men are realising that visiting the local beauty salon, spa, nail salon or men’s grooming lounge for a complete overhaul is part of making sure they look their absolute best. I am seeing an increasing number of men focused on taking care of their hands,

nails and feet and having manicures and pedicures. There is no shortage of places to go to nowadays with a variety of salons that cater for men. Some men may be happy to go to the same beauty salon or spa as their wife or girlfriend, while others might prefer to go to a unisex salon with an environment where they feel more comfortable. Such salons

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017

Men no longer feel embarrassed, or less like a man, when making sure they are well groomed from top to toe.

may offer extra-added services and the opportunity to have a treatment at the same time as their partner. Some salons not only offer fully customised men’s services and treatments, but are kitted out to make men feel like they are in a manly environment, with the option of whisky and being able to view sports on large screens.

Tip to toe Manicures and pedicures can be customised in various ways to suit a man’s needs to keep the hands and feet not only in a good condition, but also to provide a general feeling of well-being and a groomed look. With a male client’s first treatment you may not know exactly what

online at www.probeauty.co.za


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trends

are. Then make suggestions to let them feel like the treatment has been customised specifically for them. Also, remember to suggest a good home care programme, but keep it simple and uncomplicated.

Steps

he prefers as men are somewhat different from women but can be just as particular. So before you begin, establish whether your male client prefers a minimal or maximum fuss before suggesting a treatment and ensure you provide the most appropriate treatment to accommodate their needs. There are certain things they may not like, from the type of product you use, to the way it feels, to the pressure of the massage. Make sure you ask relevant questions during the treatment but not too many, and be observant of their facial expressions to establish what their preferences

The following steps are performed during mani and pedi treatments and can be customised. Soaking: first soak the hands, feet and nails in a good professional hand and foot soak. These are available in the form of foaming solutions, refreshing crystals, softening milky powders and mineral salts. Soaks offer various different benefits, from cleansing and deodorising to softening the skin, with some formulations that also gently exfoliate and hydrate the skin. Exfoliation: most mani and pedi treatments include an exfoliating scrub to remove dead skin cells, allowing for deeper penetration of the moisturiser. It also improves and increases circulation. Scrubs are available in a wide variety of formulations, from heavier salt and sugar based scrubs suspended in beneficial and nourishing oils, which are great for the feet, to softer scrubs made of sea sand, crystals and even seeds and crushed fruit kernels suspended in a creamier hydrating base. Nail care: nails must be carefully shaped and generally kept square for men, but this can depend on the shape

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017

of their nails. There should be no snags and nails can be buffed to a high gloss shine. Some men prefer not to do this, but it looks really healthy when it has been done and it seals in necessary oils and moisture. Other products can be applied at the end of the treatment, such as a matt base coat if the client is not up for the shine. I have also come across men who like to have a gel polish application, with the odd celebrity who likes to adorn an accent nail or two. There is one gentleman who is now hooked – it all happened by chance when he wanted to do something to his nails in support of a special cause. He asked me to suggest something that would not draw too much attention to his nails, but that would last, look manly and stand out just enough in support of the cause. I suggested he apply a black gel polish and a geometrical nail art design in silver on his accent nails. He liked the idea so we did it and ever since then he has gel polish (without the designs) with his manicure. Cuticle care: excess dry cuticles should be meticulously taken care of, removed and nurtured in the correct way and definitely not cut. Nourishing cuticle oils are extremely beneficial in keeping the cuticle in a good healthy condition. Callous removal: most pedicures include the removal of callouses, a very important step. In the past, a credo blade was used to slice and cut away thickened skin, not a very safe or effective practice. Fortunately we now have products that have been specifically formulated for this. However they must be used properly and carefully or else they could have the opposite effect, drying out the skin and making callouses worse. Remember when treating very thick callouses, to explain to your client, that they can’t be removed in one treatment only. It took time for them to build up and will take you a few treatments and good home care to get them to a healthy condition. Massage: For the finale, finish off with an amazing massage using a good quality moisturiser. This helps to hydrate and moisturise the skin, leaving it looking younger, more supple and feeling soft and smooth.

online at www.probeauty.co.za


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salonbusiness focus tips

Nails x10

Tenfold in Menlyn Maine was borne out of owner Georgia Shekeshe’s personal frustrations with experiencing questionable manicures at nail salons. Joanna Sterkowicz finds out more.

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ew kid on the block, Tenfold, opened its doors on 21 September 2016 with the tagline: ‘All natural nail couture’. Says Georgia Shekeshe: “I moved to Pretoria from Johannesburg two years ago and wanted to find a salon where I could get decent nail services. But all the nail salons I tried had a similar vibe in that the hygiene was bothersome and the customer service was a bit ‘take it or leave it’. The standard ‘one-experience-fits-all’ approach to manicures and pedicures was just not for me. “I’m not the kind of person who gets facials or massages every month. Nails were my thing and something that I did with friends socially and for myself. So I started thinking about nails and this process led very organically into Tenfold, despite the fact that I wasn’t from the beauty industry and came from the local government sector. “Tenfold has really grown from its original concept of creating a lovely environment where clients could relax and enjoy expert services in a comfortable and social setting. It now has an added focus on providing a safe environment for nail treatments. We are very committed to providing a space that is completely formaldehyde free, has less chemicals in the table top items and better ventilation throughout the salon.” She notes that Tenfold does not offer acrylic or tip enhancements. “Our aim is to be the best at providing as natural a manicure as possible, in the safest environment possible. We choose our polishes, tabletop products, sanitation equipment, ventilation system and even our collection of tea offerings, very carefully. Our implements are all

online at www.probeauty.co.za

single use. Nitrile gloves are available to employees to be worn only during times of service when skin can be broken, such as cuticle care or when handling harzadous chemicals,” she explains.

All in the name It took Shekeshe a long time to come up with the salon’s name. “I like the notion of generosity – giving of ourselves in our services and delivering a tenfold experience; an experience that’s just 10 times better than elsewhere. Our team of talented and highly trained staff achieves an unmatched level of customer service, specialising in custom services tailored to the client’s needs. We are guided by the mission of bringing back the simple pleasure of getting a manicure and pedicure.” Shekeshe and her team have spent ‘hours on end’ developing Tenfold’s SOP (Standard Operating Procedures) document to ensure there is consistency in all services.

‘Clean’ look “Tenfold is designed to be minimal in design so people can truly relax in the environment without too much clutter and ‘noise’ surrounding them,” continues Shekeshe.

“We believe a ‘clean’ look leads to a clear mind and that translates into our brand collateral, our service offering and the design of the salon.”

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017


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Q&A

Top Tech Talk This issue of Nail File puts the spotlight on Young Nails’ Nail Tech of the Year 2016, Robyn Shannon. PLEASE PROVIDE A BRIEF TRAJECTORY OF YOUR CAREER.

WHEN DID YOU FIRST KNOW THAT YOU WANTED TO DO NAILS FOR A LIVING? I always knew I wanted to pursue a career where I could express my creativity and work with people. I used to be a nail biter and when I was 16, I had my nails done for the first time. Seeing all the glitters and pretty nail art work just rocked my world and that’s where it all began. I started experimenting on my own nails that same year and eventually did many of my friends’ nails over weekends. Seeing their happy faces when I was done gave me such a rewarding feeling and from then on, my love for the beauty industry just grew, especially the nail artistry part of it.

From 2012 up and until the end of 2013, I worked for myself doing nails and make-up. In January 2014, at the age of 19, I enrolled in the Young Nails Salon Success Acrylic Course to finally get my certification. On the last day of my course, Yolande Austin Bekker, owner and sole distributor of Young Nails South Africa, offered me a position as a nail tech at her Glen Marais salon. In January last year I was promoted to salon manager and then in February, I qualified as a Young Nails Educator. Today I manage Young Nails Glen Marais, as well as accommodate my clients, and educate in the art division at the Young Nails South Africa head office. I love it!

WHAT APPEALS TO YOU ABOUT THE YOUNG NAILS BRAND? That’s an easy answer – it’s just absolutely amazing! Everything about it is simply the best: from thorough top notch training, to excellent after sales client support, to product availability, to the wide range of exciting products.

A ‘wow-feeling’ is the best way to describe what I felt when they announced my name for this award. I know I've got so much more to learn, but being rewarded with such an accolade is truly an honour.

YOU ALSO PLACED SECOND IN THE PHOTOGRAPHIC CATEGORY OF THE NAIL FILE SHOWCASE NAIL ART COMPETITION 2016. HOW DO YOU DEAL WITH COMPETITION PRESSURE? Last year was the first time I had ever entered a nail competition, and winning second place against nail technicians who had so much more competition and overall experience was so unexpected. By entering this, my first competition, I learnt that you need to plan extremely well.

DO YOU HAVE ANY MENTORS IN THE INDUSTRY?

I know I've got so much more to learn, but being rewarded with such an accolade is truly an honour.

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017

HOW DID IT FEEL TO WIN THE YOUNG NAILS NAIL TECH OF THE YEAR AWARD LAST YEAR?

Oh yes. Yolande Bekker was and still is my main mentor. Without Yolande’s knowledge and input into my career, I would not be where I am today.

online at www.probeauty.co.za


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business Q&A tips

WHAT NAIL ART ARE YOU MOST PROUD OF? That would be my ‘Snow Queen’ design for the Nail File Showcase Photographic Nail Art Competition 2016. I did so much research and really worked hard on this set of nails. I created snow globes with gel filled with glitters and tiny confetti. I replicated the look of icicles throughout the piece. In addition, I used Northern Lights and all shades

of water as my colour scheme, and also used vintage wooden furniture structures as my inspiration to create a magical wand motif for one of my accent nails.

WHAT IS YOUR ULTIMATE CAREER GOAL? To be an inspiration to others. To be someone who not only follows trends in the industry, but who sets the trends. I would love to enter the Next Top Nail Artist Competition and make it to the top three.

WHAT ARE THE CURRENT NAIL ART TRENDS IN SOUTH AFRICA? The biggest change I have noticed is the transition from built-in nail art in a smile line design to full nail designs with top surface art. That being said, our current full nail design trends

include the following: 3D jewellery replication by creating rhinestones, studs and pearl-like gem clusters on top of the nails. Also, the chrome, mirror chrome and holographic look; the broken glass motive; art deco, cubism and Aztec hand painted line designs.

SHOWCASE YOUR ARTISTIC SKILLS SHOWCASE NAIL ART

COMPETITION 2017

CATEGORIES Photographic Showcase Nail Art Competition - Capture your artistic nail skills in the form of a photograph from Disney’s 2017 remake of the beautiful love story, Beauty & The Beast, which allows for complete artistic freedom. The nail stylist must create a full set of nail enhancements using any combination and type of nail enhancement system and nail art and present it in a professional photograph depicting this beautiful theme throughout.

Tip Box Nail Art Competition – Explore your creativity and design nail art beyond your wildest imagination from the exciting new movie release, Pirates of the Caribbean – Dead Men Tell No Tales, into Tip Box Nail Art. This phenomenal movie should inspire you to create the most incredible display of nail art. The nail stylist’s entry and artwork is to be designed and created on nail tips and placed in a transparent box frame or display case, which allows the competitor’s work to be seen.

The Top 10 entries in each category will be featured in Nail File. Thereafter, the Top 10 in each category will be exhibited at the annual Professional Beauty National Nail Competition, held in conjunction with the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo at Gallagher Convention Centre in September. The Top 3 finalists and the winner will be announced at the show during the Nail Competition awards ceremony and featured in the post-show issue of Nail File.

For Rules & Regulations and further information to enter, please log onto the Professional Beauty website (wwwprobeauty. co.za) or contact the Competition Director, Sonette van Rensburg, on email - sonettevr@ gmail.com.


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in the market

Product

HUB

Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails.

Dip into powder The Cuccio Powder Polish Dip System by Star Nail Africa is the innovative way to give salon and spa clients up to 14 days of professional nail colour with the wearability of a gel and the durability of an acrylic. It is designed for easy application and available in over 52 colours if you mix and match.

012 7511207

Handy cream

SpaRitual’s 2017 Fall Feminine Collection features a colour range steeped in antiquity, appreciated by thoughtful reflection. The colours are reminiscent of Volcanic rock, oxidised bronze and glazed earthenware pots. Organic greys blended with sensual colours and energised with rich red clay.

The All in One Hand Cream from Calgel contains Octyldecanol to increase the skin’s flexibility and elasticity. It builds a protective and moisturising film on the skin and contains vitamin E, as well as aloe vera, for its healing property that can also treat small cuts and chronic skin problems such as psoriasis and eczema.

021 552 6999

076 879 3226

Falling into autumn

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017

online at www.probeauty.co.za


in the market

79

Obsessed with chrome

Triple threat

Young Nails’ latest pro kit, Chrome Obsession, allows you to achieve the hypnotic and adictive lustre of chrome nails in one of two ways, chrome pigment or chrome liquid. Die-hards already love the super mirror finish of the Chrome Obsession Pigment. Newbies will trip out over the brushed metallic finish with Chrome Obsession Liquid.

TheraVines’ 3-phase nail care system includes the 7 in 1 Miracle Elixir, a complete conditioning programme highly enriched in actives for stronger, smoother, shinier and healthier nails. The system also features the Phase 1 Cuticle Remover and Cuticle Treatment Oil to maintain supple cuticles, while minimising cracking and peeling.

021 886 6623

011 393 2791

Wondrous chaos Bold and daring, Bio Sculpture Gel’s Chaotic Wonderland Collection focuses on rebellious beauty – a fun look with an edge. Colours are: Bring Out The Beauty (pink); More Is Definitely More (fuchsia); Violently Happy (coral) and New Glam (turquoise).

0861 246 435

French Touch

The new Morgan Taylor REACTmax strengthening and extended wear base coats in three maximum strength formulas – Original, Satin and Optical Brightener – are the solution to soft, brittle nails. REACTmax can be worn alone for stronger, flexible natural nails or used as a radically adhesive base coat with Morgan Taylor Nail Lacquer.

LCN’s Natural Nail Boost Gel (NNBG) now has a ‘FrenchLook’. This opaque white for French tips was specially developed for the NNBG system, a solvent-resistant permanent natural nail base coat that is designed to protect the natural nail and ensure that nails grow to be beautiful, strong and even.

011 447 0659

010 593 3293

Strong reaction

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty Mar/April 2017


business tips

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Try our on-line shopping and delivery to your door!

For more information visit our website www.tiptopnails.co.za ‘Like’ our FaceBook page https://www.facebook.com/tiptopnailssouthafrica/

Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2017  

The leading magazine for the professional beauty industry.

Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2017  

The leading magazine for the professional beauty industry.

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