Page 1

Jan/Feb 2017

Specific science Treating African skin

Date with destiny Trends for 2017

Etched in ink

Permanent make-up

Enticing encouragement Staff incentives

One-stop-shop Professional Beauty Cape Town Show Preview

EyEnvy™ now available in South Africa

Introducting EyEnvy™

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In this issue... Regulars

5 Industry news

Local and international news

56 Crowning glory

What’s hot and happening in the hair industry

60 Product news

All the latest launches


The latest news from SAAHSP

18 From me, to you

19 Driving the right behaviour

All your questions answered

13 Insider

26 The ‘Posh’ factor

How to make incentives work for you and your staff

Existing business transforms into boutique salon

Spa Focus

57 Medical aesthetics trend report

What 2017 holds in store

Nails 53 Passage to India

Professional Beauty India Nail Competition

Features 35 ‘Show’ to advantage

Professional Beauty Cape Town Preview

28 Spa 2017

41 Out of Africa

Tracking the industry with stats

16 Incentivising your staff

Engaging your loyal fan base

Case Study

Medical Aesthetics

Evaluating your service

22 The lag of service marketing

Business 12 Ask the Experts

Personalising marketing messages


Global trends to impact on the local industry

32 Spa with a view

The Spa at Four Season Hotel The Westcliff

Treating African skin

48 Mirror, mirror on the wall...

Professional make-up

50 Power to the brow


51 The illusion of shaved hair

Hair follicle simulation

52 Clever about colour

Differences in pigments




017 is now in full swing. We will have come back from our holiday break well rested, revitalised and full of energy for the New Year. Now is the time to motivate not only your staff, but yourself as well, so as to maintain that feeling throughout the year. After all, in this type of service industry, therapists have to have a serene and nurturing attitude to clients at all times. No easy task! To help you on your way we have several useful articles in this issue of Professional Beauty, such as one on how to drive the right kind of behaviour in your salon to ensure success; another article on staff incentive options; and one on the importance of personalisation in your marketing messages. There is also an article on how skin diagnostic equipment can help to drive and increase business, allowing therapists to make accurate diagnoses of their clients’ skins and to prescribe the correct treatments and products. We have our annual focus on African skin and in-depth information on how to treat the darker Fitzpatrick Skin Types. This issue also includes three incisive articles, written by experts, on various aspects of permanent makeup, including microblading and hair follicle simulation. Lastly we have a preview of what to expect at the Professional Beauty Cape Town Expo, which takes place at its brand new, picturesque venue – The Lookout, V&A Waterfront, from 26 to 27 March. Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

Publisher Mark Moloney

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Managing Director Yolanda Knott

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Editor Joanna Sterkowicz

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Art Director Alois Sajanga

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Jan/Feb 2017


Specific science Treating African skin


Date with destiny

Subscribe 9 issues for R475 (RSA) To receive your copy of Professional Beauty call 011 781 5970

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Trends for 2017


Etched in ink

Permanent make-up

Enticing encouragement Staff incentives


On the cover Cover source:

Professional Beauty Cape Town Show Preview

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Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017

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industry news


News All the news and views from the world of beauty and spa.

Salon owner develops skincare line


trata Q is the name of a new South African dermocosmeceutical skincare range developed by Tsebetso Nghalaluma of Pamper Perfect in Linden, Johannesburg, and available exclusively in that salon Nghalaluma, who earlier this year launched her Pamper Perfect manicure line consisting of hand cream, scrub and cuticle oil, has been developing Strata Q over a period of four years. “I’ve been working with a contract manufacturer who has tested each

product in the Strata Q range extensively. My take on skincare is that it should be simple – clean the skin, feed it and then protect it. “We recently introduced Strata Q into our micro-needling treatments and facials, and for retail at Pamper Perfect, and it has been very well received by our clients. The Strata Q Enzyme Peeling exfoliator has literally flown off the shelves.” She explains that she was motivated to start a skincare line because she was struggling with the pricing of products. “The more

Zacharowitz to present in Orlando

Tsebetso Nghalaluma

expensive a product becomes, the more clients will look for alternatives and end up buying brands at retailers. We are regarded as a luxury industry but we shouldn’t be, as good-quality skincare products and treatments should be considered as essential as buying bread and milk. “As salon-owners we have to pay big overheads so I believe we need to be in control, starting from the manufacturing process. I was driven to create this range for my clients because I needed to see visible results on their skin,” concludes Nghalaluma.

News in pictures

Yvette Zacharowitz, Nelly Kirschner and Kirsten-Claire Zacharowitz

Yvette Zacharowitz of Nouveau Contour South Africa has been invited to present at the Nouveau Contour USA Conference in Orlando, USA, in February. Zacharowitz, an international master intra-dermal pigmentologist, will give a presentation on the role of dermapigmentation in areola restoration for women after breast cancer. Following the conference, Zacharowitz will travel to Texas and

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Mexico to teach master classes. Zacharowitz recently attended the Permanent Make-up World Conference in Amsterdam. “We were a group of six South Africans who attended this year – myself, my partner Kirsten-Claire Zacharowitz, Nadine Minns, Wilna Joubert and Manuella Incendiario. We all learned so much about innovative hairlines, elegant eye shadow, miracle eyebrows, flower lips, and volume lips,” she says.

Twincare International recently held the first-ever master class for Screaming Beauty, its own, locally developed waxing range, in Johannesburg. Pictured are Twincare sales executive Taryn Starkowitz and retail manager Lindzey Turton.

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017

industry news


‘Venus’ rising in Mauritius

News in brief ■ New stockist for Babor: Luxury skincare brand Babor has been taken on by the newly opened Advanced Skin Technology at Woodlands Boulevard in Pretoria East. ■ Christian Faye now at Sorbet: The following Sorbet Drybars have taken on the Christian Faye eye, lash and brow brand: Tyger Valley, Granada, Gateway, Hillcrest, Groenkloof, Wonderboom, Broadacres, Rivonia, Chilli Lane and Northcliff.

Thyrza Price and Regenesis’ Nusrat Munir


on-surgical aesthetic equipment provider Venus Concept Africa has launched in Mauritius with Regenesis, a wellness centre in the capital city of Port Louis. Says Venus Concept Africa marketing manager, Thyrza Price: “Earlier this year, we participated in the International Medical Tourism Exhibition & Conference held at the Balaclava Resort. The medical benefits of non-invasive treatments for a number of skin and body treatments

and the safety of the technology for all skin types were enough to convince the team at Regenesis. They opted to introduce the Venus Freeze as a starting point and plan to expand their services to also include nanofractional skin resurfacing and other treatments in collaboration with us.” Venus Concept’s three-day launch visit to Mauritius included two full days of intensive training, as well as a press conference and a clinic open day.

A ‘Dream’ appointment Ryno Mulder has taken on a new portfolio at Imbalie Beauty as the brand manager of the Dream Nails Beauty franchise group. This is in addition to his position as brand manager of the American cosmetics line, Bodyography. “Working for a heritage beauty brand pioneered by a fiery individualist such as Nora Barnard is a thrilling opportunity. I look forward to steadily elevating the Dream Nails Beauty brand in the highly competitive nail sector, while honouring its brand principles of originality and playful self-expression,” says Mulder.

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017

■ VTCT acquires ITEC: Beauty and health industry qualifications awarding organisation VTCT has acquired examination board ITEC. VTCT announced the acquisition with a view to enhancing the services offered by both organisations to benefit education centres and learners. ■ Increasing interest in ingredients labels: New findings by independent natural and organic brand Kari Gran suggest that more than half of women now pay attention to product labels and ingredients lists in an effort to avoid certain chemicals. Sulphates and parabens were the top two ingredients women seek to avoid. ■ Most popular complaints platform: Social media is fast becoming the most popular way customers complain about a brand’s services, according to Barclay’s latest report examining high street retailers in Britain. Clients are now five times more likely to use social media sites such as Twitter and Facebook to complain about purchases than three years ago, with one in three (38%) expecting responses from a business within an hour, the report found.

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industry news


Trick or treat?


arli Purchase is the winner of the first Professional Beauty Halloween Make-up Competition, sponsored by Kryolan. As her prize, Purchase received a R2000 gift voucher from Kryolan, which she utilised immediately on products. In addition, Purchase received a year-long subscription to Professional Beauty and Nail File magazines, as well as a gift hamper. “It feels surreal to have won the competition,” Purchase told Professional Beauty. “I cannot believe that my work won – I am ecstatic and so excited!”

Purchase submitted seven Halloween make-up looks for the competition. “Each make-up took me about two hours to do; some took longer than others because I was making things up as I was going along. In total I would say it took me between 14 and 16 hours to complete my entry submission.” Purchase studied make-up artistry and prosthetics at Face to Face Edenvale. She describes herself as very new to the industry, having been a professional make-up artist for only a year. She continues: “I’ve always loved

LTI breaks into Indian market

Pretoria-based homeopathic aromatherapy brand, Lilian Terry International (LTI), made its inaugural appearance at the Professional Beauty India Expo, held recently in Mumbai. Says LTI’s Derek Terry: “It was a great show for us as we sold all the products we had on the stand. Our LTI facial cups were in such great

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demand that they sold out in the first few hours of the show. “There is a great interest in facial products in India but not so much in slimming treatments. Visitors to our stand displayed keen interest in South African products that are natural.” Present on the LTI stand at Professional Beauty India was LTI cofounder, Dr Katya Tsvyetkova.

Carli Purchase and Kryolan SA’s Stefania Beninca

beauty make-up and, while I liked the idea of face painting and special effects, I did not know much about it. It was not until I studied prosthetics that I realised how passionate I am about special effects make-up. I would love to get involved in film and TV make-up.”

News in pictures

Visiting overseas medical aesthetics practitioner Dr Sabrina Shah-Desai conducted a demonstration on the application of dermal fillers at Galderma South Africa’s recent Restylane Revitalisation event held in Johannesburg.

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017

industry news


An ‘Xtreme’ move


treme Lashes South Africa has moved from its old premises in Lonehill to Sunninghill Office Park on Peltier Drive in Sunninghill, Johannesburg. The move is indicative of the company’s expansion as it shifts more and more into the retail space, according to Xtreme Lashes South Africa owner and director, Elizma Smith. “In addition we have appointed two new educators – Merle Butler and Suria Kok – for head office to handle the increase in the number of people we are training. Our new premises can accommodate training, as well as increased storage for our retail range and distribution throughout South Africa. We are now able to train up to eight students at a time,” explains Smith. As to why she chose the Sunninghill location, Smith replies: “We identified

Treatment room

this as the type of area with which we would like to associate our brand. Sunninghill Office Park is also close to a number of major motorways for ease of distribution and access to our training facilities. “Furthermore, our new offices have a fantastic rooftop veranda with a view second to none and all

TV series shot at Urban Bliss

Elizma Smith and Janien Grobler

the requirements that will allow us to be the leading eye lash extension brand in South Africa. We have also just revamped our website (www.” Xtreme Lashes South Africa will be at the Professional Beauty Expos in Durban and Johannesburg.

News in pictures

A 13-part talk show, The Girlz, broadcast on DStv channel, ED, was shot at Urban Bliss Wellness Spa in Emmarentia, Johannesburg, late last year. Filming took place on seven consecutive Mondays, with two episodes recorded per day. Says Urban Bliss owner Ayesha Rajah: “The Girlz deals with different aspects of a woman’s life and focuses on topics such as women’s health, the work/home life balance and what women expect from men today.”

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017

“It was very exciting to have our spa serve as the location for this show and to observe the production process. The show’s director, Samantha Steele, is actually a client of ours. Samantha told us that she loves Urban Bliss and wanted to take the concept of shooting the show here to her superiors, who sanctioned it. Because we know Samantha so well we trusted that she would ensure that the film crew and equipment would not damage our facility in any way.”

VP of Global Education and Research & Development at Dermalogica, Dr Diana Howard, visited South Africa recently to launch the Phyto Replenish Oil. She is pictured with Diana van Sittert (left), Dermalogica South Africa’s national education manager.

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business tips


Ask the experts Our beauty industry experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.

What are the benefits of using eye pillows and bean bags to enhance my treatments?


hen placed across the eyes, nose and cheeks, the soothing weight of eye pillows settles into the key acupressure points for clarity and calm. Eye pillows do not need to be heated and are instantly reassuring and sleep-inducing, while blocking out light and silent ‘mind chatter’. Soothing lavender scent is excellent for decreasing anxiety and nervousness and can also be helpful for migraines, headaches, depression, nervous tension and emotional stress. Heatable bean bags can be easily warmed in your hot cabbie or microwave. They increase blood

supply to the muscles to assist in releasing lactic acid buildup. In addition, they assist your client to feel comfortable, thus maximising relaxation. They also help to warm tight muscles before you begin the massage to maximise the efficacy of the treatment, plus they alleviate post-massage pain. Heat stimulates the sensory receptors in the skin, which means that applying heat to the lower back will decrease transmissions of pain signals to the brain and partially relieve the discomfort.

Philippa Abbott is a fully qualified therapist and make-up artist, who has worked on cruise ships and in spas in London and South Africa. She started Spa Sense in 2010 to assist clients with turnkey spa solutions. E-mail her on

How can offering a make-up brand for retail at my salon benefit business? And, should I include make-up services on my treatment menu?


ver the last couple of years, we have seen an increasing trend where salons and spas offer beautiful luxury commodity products in addition to their skincare products and services. In our competitive market, this is a great way to differentiate the consumer experience within your business and increase revenue without having to invest heavily in training and facilitating the sale. The latest trend is to offer sexy, sassy skin-loving make-up brands. Most women wear some form of make-up, whether as little as a pretty lip gloss and a touch of mascara, or a full make-up application to enhance their look. A recent survey revealed that one in three women refuse to leave the house without make-up on. Make-up is such a fun and easy

way to increase revenue within your business and can even help you draw on new markets. According to a 2012 survey, 58% of girls between the ages of 8 and 18 wear make-up, so not only will your clients spoil themselves, but their daughters as well. The inclusion on your treatment menu depends on whether you are including make-up in your business to expand your service offering, or if you are looking for an easy way to increase revenue; whether you have the skill set available and if your market requires this service. Janine Janse van Rensburg is the founder and MD of Poise Brands – distributors of Mii Cosmetics, Juliette Armand, Mio & Mama Mio Skincare. E-mail her on

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Nouveau Contour South Africa Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017

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business trends



Insider, our exclusive business round-up, polled salons and spas in South Africa to track business in October 2016.

Insider Spa

October was a successful month for spas with the majority of spas polled reporting an increase in treatment business as compared to the same time last year. Some spas experienced a higher average guest spend, with guests having higher priced treatments as compared to regular massages. Another spa had much bigger year-end functions booked compared to the year before, with a lot of companies coming in during the week as opposed to weekends. Other spas also reported more business during the week, especially during school holidays. Some spas cited their increase in treatments to successful targeting of potential clients. Retail sales were not so successful, with only 43% of you posting an increase in retail sales as compared to October 2915. One spa that experienced an increase noted that it was due to the fact that a lot of companies added a gift pack or product to the year-end spa day function. We asked spas if they send SMS appointment reminders to clients and the majority of you said no. Some of you do either call AVERAGE clients the day before or send TREATMENT emails. ROOM Only a few of you offer OCCUPANCY nutritional supplements for retail, although many do offer nutritional advice, if clients casually enquire about their unhealthy diets.


Insider Salon

Even with the onset of summer, which is usually accompanied by a surge in salon business as clients scramble to get their bodies and skin into shape for the Christmas holidays, many salons experienced a decrease in business, as compared to the same time last year. One salon was affected by the fact that the Jewish holidays were later this year than last year which, which meant many religious clients didn’t come for treatments during this time. Another salon found that its nail services were the biggest revenue generator over October. AVERAGE Salons generally found that TREATMENT clients were watching their ROOM treatment and retail spend to OCCUPANCY save up for Christmas. All salons polled send out SMS reminders to clients, with only a few of you offering nutritional supplements for retail. PB


The month in numbers











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Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017




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business tips


Incentivising your staff By having an incentive for staff you can change employees’ behaviour and ensure they follow the company ethos, writes Debbie Merdjan.


lmost all spa businesses incentivise their staff. Staff receive a basic salary but they also work on commission or incentives. These can come from the amount of repeat visitors, on products sold, or by meeting certain targets. Before you put an incentive programme in place, however, there is something very important that you need to look at first – YOU. As the spa owner or m a n a g e r, you need to look at your spa, its

atmosphere, the ease of communication, motivation, the open door policy and the camaraderie within the workplace. You need to ensure that your spa is somewhere that staff members want to work, will do their best and love coming to work. Then, once you know your staff are as happy and as well looked after as possible, you can look at how and what to incentivise. Each spa will be different depending on the size and the kind of spa it is. Some people like to appraise individual performance, others prefer team or overall company performance. There are those that combine individual and team. Incentives work for both you and the employee. You can increase productivity and achieve better sales. You can increase your turnover and ensure repeat business. And, you can do all of this while keeping your staff member incentivised.

Tips Keep incentives simple. A system that is complicated will not endear your staff to you. It needs to be simple enough that staff are on top of it all the time, and that you are too. Incentives need to come from the top, i.e., from the owner. It is okay if a manager handles the incentives, but you need to ensure there is no favoritism. Incentives must be based purely on performance. Individual incentives are often easier to monitor. They encourage the individual to perform above and beyond the call of duty. They do however need to be carefully monitored so as not to create animosity within the staff. And your individual

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017

incentives somehow need to bring all of your staff together, so they still work as a fabulous team. Make sure you recognise and include everyone – staff, marketers, admin and cleaners. Your business is only as good as your team. One staff member cleans the bathrooms, another makes the tea, another does the treatment. They all work together and each one must realise how important their job is. Incentivise everyone, even in different ways. Incentives do not only have to be cash based. If you are a big company, it could be an air ticket. If you are small, it could be a meal in a restaurant. Or a letter to say thank you, with a small bottle of their favorite product. Perhaps a day off? Look after your staff. And in return, they will look after you and your business. PB Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the Camelot Group. She has been in the industry since 1982, started Camelot International Health & Skin Care Education in 1987, and opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997.

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business tips


From me, to you Personalisation is a given in treatment delivery but all too often we forget its importance in our marketing messages, writes Hellen Ward.


s small business owners we are often solely responsible for promoting and marketing our salons without any real expertise. And doesn’t it show? Nothing winds me up more than seeing ill-thought-out offers in salons. Recommend a friend? Yawn. Seen it, done it and bought the t-shirt. 20% off… really? Can’t we think of anything more exciting than that? First visit discount? Isn’t the old adage true that you become blind to something the more you see it? It feels generic, impersonal and just phoney. When I see marketing like that I automatically think the fabulous ‘offer’ is probably just the standard price, so when it does go off-offer, it must be way over hiked.

On target Marketing all depends on your approach. It’s a little like trawling for fish and getting ‘tiddlers’ instead of spearing the big, beautiful creature that slips through your net if you cast it too wide. Aiming at everyone, hoping to hit your target accidentally, is futile and pleases nobody, whereas honing your precision shot to a specific audience by focusing on what you want and who you want to get it from can result in so much more. It’s certainly not easier, it may be more time consuming, but ultimately it’s less costly because the resulting benefits will be real and long lasting. We could assume the bigger companies have specific departments dreaming up these tried-and-tested offers and that they are promotionally brilliant with unsurpassed expertise, but that’s not the case. They aim at everyone, hoping for the traditional 1% take-up rate, like other large employers or service providers do. Putting all your energy into what, let’s face it, is

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017

a 99% failure rate is pretty pointless in my book. Cold calling – who wants it? Leaflet drops – who reads them? But something bespoke created for me, a genuine call to action over something I care about, and now I’m interested.

Break it down Like most of us, I’m a sucker for a bargain. However, I know what I like and what will get me to spend my money, and it’s not going to be a tired, generic promotion from a mainstream, high-street chain. But if a promotion is exclusive or feels like it’s been tailored for me, you’ve got my attention. Every promotion or offer should ask itself: • What is it? The ‘what, when, where’ has to be communicated succinctly. Customers have notoriously short attention spans. • Who is it trying to appeal to? And no, ‘everyone’ cannot be the answer! • What’s the point of it? To get people to try other services, for example. Remember to keep it simple. PB

Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London’s Sloane Square and co-chair of Trailblazers.

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business tips


Driving the right behaviour in

A new year brings with it the chance to evaluate the past. Just as we apply this in our personal lives, we need to apply it in our businesses, writes Diana van Sittert.


s salon-owners, the beginning of the year is the time to ask yourselves the following questions: ‘Why am I doing what I do? ‘Does the way that we do things still work for my business stakeholders?’ For as long as I can remember, we have followed the example put in place by previous business-owners in our industry. But have you ever stood still and evaluated if the said example is truly motivating the right behaviour that leads to optimal success in your business? Is your current employee payment structure driving the customer experience which is needed to retain customers, or is it driving your employees to rush through treatments because they have to meet a treatment target? Is your sales commission structure driving the behaviour of prescribing the correct product for a specific skin concern, or driving the behaviour to sell as many products as possible, no matter how practically impossible it is to use it all at home, just to hit the sales target? I am not by any means saying that targets should not be in place and

remain a focus in your business, but are they set up in such a way that they drive what you want the world to see and hear about your business?

Pricing Studies conducted by Walker, a consulting firm specialising in customer experience (https://www., show that in 2020 price will not matter to the customer if the customer service experience is exceptional. Pricing will only be an issue if the value and customer service are not in line with the price. Although these studies show that this will only be the reality in 2020, I beg to differ as this seems to be a reality now. In today’s economy, our differentiating factor should be customer service, human touch and personalisation, because this is why the professional skin therapist is sought out instead of the retail skincare environment. Payment structures should, therefore, be based on motivating the employee to drive customer service, personalising every offering to the customers’ needs and emphasising the results of human touch. So, in this New Year it stands to

reason that re-evaluation is needed on how you incentivise the right behaviour. Here are a few ideas: INCENTIVES FOR EMPLOYEES • Achieving a high score on customer service survey feedback; • Living the top 10 SOP (standard operating procedure) points in your business; • A WOW award for the best incomegenerating idea for your business; • Implement a sliding scale commission for growing the retail and professional spend per consumer; • Reward the employee on customer retention. INCENTIVISE THE CUSTOMER • Reward the customer for remaining loyal to your business with a personalised pamper session of his/ her choice; • An additional human touch element in every treatment after she/he has reached a certain spend threshold in your business. In summary, you can change lives through changing skin, so do what you do for the right reason and incentivise your employees for doing it well. PB

Diana van Sittert, national education manager for Dermalogica SA, has been active in the skincare industry for the past 16 years, first as a somatologist before moving onto sales and business consultant roles.

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Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017


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The lag of service marketing In the beauty salon industry, the service you provide is the product and it is experience and end result based, writes Rina McKellar.


recently had the privilege of working with one of South Africa’s leading vitamin companies. Working with a vast team of highly charged brand managers, PR people, digital fundis and advertising agencies has always been a source of great inspiration

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017

and it is a hive of activity. It is easy to get excited and stay motivated when there is an army of dedicated people joined by a common goal, speaking the same lingo, with marketing and brand growth the very thread that joins the vast happy family together. It is not so easy when it is just you….

You, yourself and you. Party of 1. Team of 1. For the lucky few, perhaps, there’s one other person who shares your enthusiasm to grow your business. But in general, as a salon owner, you’ve been dealt a double whammy. Firstly, you’re a small business with limited resources and budget, and, secondly, you’re in ‘service marketing’. This is still a relatively new field, with not that much historical know-how to pull from. In essence service marketing, especially in this country, is still in its early stages. Think about the High Street or Main Road in years gone by. It is where one would find ‘the butcher, the baker and the candlestick-maker’. They did not need to advertise or market themselves at all. They were part of the town and always there to greet you with a smile and provide you with the service and goods you needed. They had a trade – the same with the town doctor.

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23 Everybody knew who he was and what he offered. There was no one else to go to. And even if there was more than one, it was still simple enough to navigate.

Impact of competition Product marketing, on the other hand, has been around for hundreds of years and it was during the time of the industrial revolution that it got kicked into another gear. Why? Competition and choice. Suddenly there was mass production, and supply and demand became out of balance. Products were in over-supply and therefore something had to be seen and heard for them to stand out amongst the other competitors. Of course it was nothing as dramatic and cluttered as we know today, and the first advertising campaign launched in the late 1800s is charming and sweet and is still a popular feature on modern-day postcards and posters. Be that as it may, the birth of advertising came about because of competition and choice. It was, however, largely associated with tangible products and still is today. Think about service businesses: accountants, plumbers, lawyers, doctors etc. It is only very recently that we’ve started to hear and see them advertise – and it is still mainly the large ones. Most still rely purely on word of mouth and referrals. There is a belief that there is no need to market or be proactive about securing business. The smart ones, however, are realising it is not that simple.

Expectation and outcome Businesses in the services industry need their customers to have an experience with them – in your case a beauty or nail treatment. Part and parcel of the service offering is the expectation that the outcome will be properly implemented. It is a given that the delivery of that service will be executed and that an end result will

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contracts of roughly the same nature, be produced. If there is any deviation they all allow you access to what’s in this, then the very reputation of the app, and give you the ability to call company is at stake. The survival your friends. I am, however, of their business depends 100% certain that MTN, on the original concern Today, if Vodacom and Cell C or problem being the term ‘service would argue that solved or sorted out. they are completely No wonder that provider’ is mentioned, different in every there are so many we automatically think way. Their key protests around difference would service delivery in of cell phone and data lie somewhere this country. What companies. What exactly are in the experience good is a service if they providing that is arena. They spend it does not deliver? millions in marketing Today, if the term tangibly different? their unique blend ‘service provider’ of service, product is mentioned, we and brand. automatically think of cell Think also about technology phone and data companies. What platforms or banking. Think online exactly are they providing that is bookings and shopping. Service has tangibly different? In essence they become the new product. Out of the offer exactly the same service. They top 10 global brands today – most R provide call centres if you have a query,

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017

26-27 Februar y 2017 • ExCeL London

STEP INTO THE WORLD OF BEAUTY Get inspired at the leading event for salon and spa professionals Make 2017 a successful year for your business

Register for free tickets, visit

#PBLondon @pro_beauty ProfessionalBeautyUK pro_beauty01



are now service- and technologyorientated, offering you an experience rather than a tangible product per say.

Unique rules Service marketing does have a slightly different set of rules that should be carefully applied. In my very first article in the September issue of Professional Beauty, I asked: what makes you so special? In an industry full of service providers, I ask again – in what way is your service offering unique? What differentiates your service from the rest? How is the experience and end result in your salon different to the salon in the down the road, or in the mall next door and how are you using that to get new customers and keep old ones happy?

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The big service and technology industry guys play in another league; they have taken service marketing to a completely new level. The more traditional service industries out there, however, like doctors, plumbers or tax consultants, function largely like they have done for years and years. They operate on a similar principle to the line in the iconic Field of Dreams movie: ‘If you build it, they will come’. They believe that simply opening an office is good enough and the clients will come. But think about the way you still interact with that group of smaller service providers. How do you go about finding a new doctor or dentist? How do you find a reputable accountant or plumber? Do you just google? Or do you still call a few friends and ask around for one? As I mentioned, reliability, experience and the end result go hand in hand in this industry. Referral and client recommendation is still the absolute backbone of the traditional service model. Even the big guys solicit endorsement, and technology giants like Airbnb or have built client reviews and ratings as part of their service model. My encouragement in this article is to look at how you fit in to the service industry marketing model. What are you doing to differentiate within this

broader category of service offering? How different are you to the rest of people in your wider industry? Do you know what percentage of your business comes from referrals? How are you using your loyal base to increase your business? How are you actively engaging with your satisfied customers to draw in new customers? How are you using this backbone of your wider industry to your advantage? As salon-owners you sit in a unique position. You offer an exciting and affirming service to many satisfied and loyal customers. You’re not offering a service to fix something, like a plumber. You’re offering something encouraging and fun. You have your customers’ details. You have a relationship with them. This can all be used to grow your business to even greater heights. Go on – do something this month to engage your loyal fan base. Let them help you grow your business and become part of your support team. PB Rina McKellar has over 18 years of experience across varied industries ranging from pharmaceutical to financial. She has worked with large corporate brands like Standard Bank, Vital and Pfizer. Now, as a director of Blue IQ, McKellar seeks to bring about transformation and growth on all levels.

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017

case study


The ‘Posh’ factor

After identifying a definite potential for growth in terms of service and product offerings at an existing Johannesburg salon, entrepreneur Emma Pike purchased the business and transformed it into Posh Nail and Beauty, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.


he pre-Posh Nail and Beauty salon, located at Post Office Centre on Rudd Road in Illovo, had been established for almost five years before being acquired by Emma Pike. She continues: “My first step was to change the name of the salon and thereafter to introduce new, international brands to the existing treatment menu, whilst planning some renovations. Posh Nail and Beauty opened in April 2014.”

Pike notes that trying to find new locales for salons in the Northern suburbs of Johannesburg is challenging. “Rather than identifying new sites, I chose to look at three existing businesses that were on the market and in which I could see potential. I finally chose the business in Illovo primarily because of its central location. It is easily accessible, has ample free parking and enjoys some of the most well-recognised restaurants and shops as neighbours. The LSM (Living Standards

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017

Measurement) is 7-9, which suited the high-end boutique salon I envisaged,” she explains. Prior to embarking on the Posh Nail and Beauty venture, Pike had researched the beauty industry for some time and carried out all due diligence. She recognised that the reality of being an entrepreneur enables one to apply their skills set to a variety of businesses. Says Pike: “I have always been passionate about luxury goods and worked for the Cartier and Gucci brands whilst living in the UK, and, as such, the beauty industry was a natural choice for me.” After considering the possibility of opening a larger salon within the Illovo Post Office Centre, Pike eventually decided that a small, personal ‘boutique’ salon was exactly what clients wanted. “So I strove to create just such an environment,” she comments. “My clients have the choice of numerous large salon chains on their doorstep, as well as some of the most beautiful spas in the country only kilometres away, and yet they choose to support Posh Nail and Beauty.”

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Classic style Anyone walking into the salon will be immediately be struck by its glamorous monochromatic style and décor. “I have a background in interior design and had a clear vision of what I wanted to create. Having being born and raised in the UK, I wanted to create an upmarket salon that wouldn’t look out of place on the streets of Knightsbridge in London. I settled on a classic black and white colour scheme, with accents of chrome. In my opinion this is a timeless look that never tires,” elaborates Pike.

Enhanced menu In May 2016, Posh Nail and Beauty re-opened after major renovations. According to Pike, this was the perfect time to revise the salon’s service and product offering. She comments: “I have a passion for following overseas trends and have many friends in the UK who keep me abreast of what’s trending. Plus, I spend a considerable amount of time listening to clients’ wants and needs. I have a truly fantastic team of therapists working with me who have known their clients for years. We strive to tailor-make each client’s experience to exactly fit their wish. As such, we introduce new services and products on a continuous basis. “The majority of our clients travel internationally and want to be able to enjoy global trends here at home. At Posh Nail and Beauty, I try to fulfil that need.” Pike recently introduced microblading, which has been exceptionally well received, as the majority of her clients are in search of the perfect eyebrow. Additionally, she made a big decision to invest in an Ellipse I2PL machine from Denmark, as many clients are looking for a more ‘medical aesthetic’ approach to their beauty regime. This technology is CE and FDA-approved and globally recognised as being a leader in its field. “I have also introduced several new retail lines, the latest addition being a range from the US called BillionDollar Brows. This collection is ideal for our clients to be able to maintain their brows at home between treatments,” concludes Pike. PB

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017

spa focus


Spa 2017

Marisa Dimitriadis takes a look at global trends that are likely to impact on the South African spa industry this year.


few things are certain: in today’s world of being connected 24/7, with stress levels at an all-time peak, a lack of balance between and work and personal life, disrupted sleep and nutrition on the go, it is vital that spa owners and managers connect with what the consumer is looking for. The speed at which a spa business is able to adapt and change to suit the needs of the market will determine the longevity of that business. Make the changes quickly, but, at the same time, efficiently. If we reflect for a moment on 2016, most spa owners will use words such as

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017

‘challenging’, ‘tough’, ‘a real struggle’, ‘inconsistent’ and ‘unpredictable’ to describe last year. Business in 2016 in general in South Africa through all industries was challenging, with business owners looking for creative ways to engage with the consumer and really compete for the sale. If you are reading this and thinking that this is not the case with your business, which soared and produced your best figures yet, then you are in the minority, with a big ‘well done!’ going your way. Now you are faced with the challenge to maintain and grow those figures. Let’s have a look at what I believe 2017 is going to shift towards based

on global predictions, combined with a very close connection to the South African spa market.

Customer connection Your ability to delight, surprise, captivate and almost literally ‘take someone’s breath away’ with your service is going to be what will guarantee an emotional and lasting attachment between your spa and the customer. Personal connection is a must, not a maybe, and how well you are able to do this will affect how much spend you will get out of your guest. Customisation goes hand in hand with connection, as the better you

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29 process quicker for the consumer is vital. iPods for personal music choice during treatments are key to customisation, so consider this and find a way to customise music selection. Get your gift vouchers online and put your monthly package offers online and then market and drive the sale of these.

Medical aesthetics The medical aesthetics world is more than ever integrating wellness, from injectibles (i.e. toxins and fillers), non-invasive ‘facelifts’ with less downtime, vaginal rejuvenation, non-invasive body reshaping and skin peels. Find a way to connect or integrate in some way with the medical side of aesthetics, as demand for these procedures and services is growing. Don’t ignore this and shy away from it, but rather embrace it and find a way to be connected.

Spa parties

customise the more connected your guest will be. Consumers want to feel like something has been done especially for them, and in a spa environment this is not easy as you have a menu of services which people choose from. Take this menu to the next level by customising a basic service to deliver specifically what the guest needs.

Tech-savvy Integrating technology into the spa is essential, another must. Online booking is an area that is going to need focus as this is still tricky and comes with a few challenges, but your ability to make the booking

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Visiting a spa in groups is becoming more and more popular. Bachelorette parties are changing, in that a group of girls would rather be in the spa for a day than out eating and drinking. Teens, kids and corporates are spending more time in the spa than ever before. Don’t ignore this with the attitude that your spa does not cater for kids, but instead allocate specific days and times to offer kids parties. And, don’t forget the gifting opportunities that can boost your retail.

Causes An increasing trend is wellness with a cause. So, align yourself to a charity that is close to your heart and drive events and specific days towards this cause.

Integration Destination spas should think about integrating holidays with wellness, de-stressing and burnout. Combine accommodation and holiday packages with an element of R

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017

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Ensure your spa has a specific menu that gives the guest the nutrition information they are looking for to make informed choices about food.

wellness, so as to help combat stress and burnout. This integration can only work if it is done at reservation stage and

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017

marketed correctly to the holiday maker. The consumer is looking for any way to de-stress so be sure to give them options to help them do this.

Eating well Healthy food is more than ever becoming a focus for the consumer. Restaurants are even changing menus to incorporate wheat-free, gluten-free and carb-counting options. Ensure your spa has a specific menu that gives the guest the nutrition information they are looking for to make informed choices about food. Offer your guest free nutrition information following a

massage or body wrap; this all forms part of customer connection.

Digital detox Look for ways to get your guest to disconnect from the digital world when they have booked treatment time with you. So, offer Wi-Fi only at reception and changing room areas, with signage in other areas of the spa reading: ‘Digital detox zone’ (instead of ‘No phones’) to make the thought of disconnecting more appealing. Offer colouring in books at

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than cured. Create treatments and packages that focus on prevention but ensure they are priced fairly and offer excellent value for money.

Environmental responsibilities I suggest you eco-friendly up, as eco awareness is not going to go away. In fact, it is becoming more of a global focus, with everyone trying to do their part in some small way. Look at your spa and find ways to eco up a notch. For example: recycling bins in public areas of the spa, organic veggies grown on site, solar lighting and recycling water.

Service delivery

relaxation areas, and/or offer your guest a silence session after the treatment, such as five minutes of actual meditation time posttreatment, where you set them up and meditate with them in total silence for five minutes.

Health conscious The consumer is focused on preventative treatment more so than ever before, as well as stress which affects every person in some form or other, and needs to be managed rather

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Better delivery of services and treatments is for me the most important point to take from this whole article. The consumer of today is service delivery-driven; they know what a massage feels like, they know what a facial should do, so you need to take those services and ensure that the delivery of the service is better than best. How do you do this? Use your fussiest guest to guide you; use other spa managers to come and assess the treatment; use your supplier to train your team and assist you with ideas of how to improve the delivery of the service. The consumer is now not only looking for value for money but they are looking for how the treatment and the service is delivered from the moment they make the booking to after they have left.

Value specials and deals ‘Pamper’ is so last year, resultsdriven treatments combined with relaxation are the current trend. The consumer is now going to the spa as a necessity, and not for a spoil and pamper session. But alongside that necessity comes the desire to see actual results and being able to measure the results. So, there you have it – 12 points to look out for and to take seriously by aligning your business with how the marketplace is shifting. Lastly, I want to point out the biggest challenge facing our industry, as this directly impacts how efficiently you are able to align your business to the trends in the marketplace. Education and the level of training retained in the country is by far our biggest challenge. Our highly skilled and properly qualified therapists are either leaving the country to work abroad, or leaving the industry for a better paying industry. This is a whole other discussion, but let’s start thinking about ways to retain this level of expertise and skill in the country and this can be done if we investigate creative ways to remunerate these therapists. Embrace the changes that the spa industry brings for the coming year and plan how you will align your business and what changes you will implement immediately, and, of course, don’t forget to have fun doing it. PB Marisa Dimitriadis is founder and owner of The Spa Consultants. E-mail her on marisa@

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017

spa focus


Spa with a view In a South African first, The Spa at Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff has introduced Omorovicza, a Hungarian spa brand based on the wonders of thermal baths, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.


he introduction of the award-winning Omorovicza brand, which incorporates trademarked Hydro Mineral Transference technology, comes a year after The Spa at Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff underwent a complete overhaul. Says spa manager Julanda Marais: “The renovations resulted in a completely new spa some 1200m2 in size. We have eight treatment rooms, one being a spa suite for two, a manicure/pedicure studio, indoor and outdoor relaxation areas, and a lifestyle retail area. “In terms of hydro facilities we have an outdoor infinity lap pool, as well as steam rooms and saunas in the men’s and women’s change rooms.” Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff is the new incarnation of the iconic, luxury Westcliff Hotel, elevated on a hillside with panoramic views across the Johannesburg Zoo and the upmarket surrounding suburbs.

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017

Marais notes that the décor and feel of the spa captures the serenity of Johannesburg’s lush gardens and greenery. “Our spa is inspired by nature. It has the feel of an urban-style retreat, filled by natural light with a contemporary yet warm design,” she comments. Spa guests have the choice to enjoy breakfast, lunch or snacks at the Westcliff Deli or Après Spa, making it a one-stop destination for a full spa day. “Après Spa is, we believe, the city’s only outdoor spa lounge, and offers a casual setting, surrounded by the lush gardens, in which to enjoy a snack or drink before or after your spa experience. It is also an ideal yoga pavilion for beautiful sunrise stretches.”

Brands of choice In addition to Omorovicza, the spa offers French luxury skincare brand, Biologique Recherche, and Terres

Spa manager Julanda Marais

d’Afrique, a proudly South African brand based on African botanicals Marais elaborates: “Like Omorovicza, Biologique Recherche chose to debut with us in South Africa. I had worked with the brand before at the Four Seasons Geneva, and was

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Spa at a glance • Owner: Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts • Relaunched: November 2015 • Size: 1200m2 • Manager: Julanda Marais • Hydro facilities: Outdoor infinity lap pools, saunas, steam rooms • Additional facilities: Manicure/ pedicure studio, fitness facilities, indoor and outdoor relaxation areas • Brands: Omorovicza, Biologique Recherche, Terres d’Afrique • Number of treatment rooms: Eight (including a spa suite for two) • Number of full time therapists: Eleven

amazed by the in-depth treatment protocols and the long-lasting results. “Terres d’Afrique was a natural choice for us, since it is a niche local brand with pure ingredients that thinks ethically and works sustainably. We wanted to offer an organic, local brand, with signature rituals based on the wealth of the African continent, while at the same time offering exceptional, customised and resultdriven skin treatments which prove to be astoundingly effective.”

Signature treatment She describes the spa’s signature treatment – The Red Nomads – as a revitalising experience. “Guests’ senses are awakened and revived by this treatment, which was inspired by the women of Himba, an ancient African nomadic tribe,” says Marais. “The treatment involves a unique body mask with natural African plant ingredients (rooibos, baobab, Kalahari melon and coconut

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oils) to even out skin tone and improve skin elasticity. A rooibos and coconut shell exfoliation is performed prior to the body mask application, and reflexology is performed on the hands and feet while the mask is resting. Then we finish off with a rich and moisturising body butter.”

Focus on fitness A glance at the spa’s services menu reveals 24-hour fitness facilities and the hotel’s 7.7 acres for jogging or walking. “We are a lifestyle spa and therefore we incorporate fitness and nutrition into our services,” concludes Marais. PB

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017


Education Innovation Inspiration CAPE TOWN LOOK OUT!


This year Professional Beauty is changing, bringing you not only the leading brands from South Africa but also a new and exciting range of seminars and workshops, providing education, innovation and inspiration.

Not only are we bringing you this fantastic educational opportunity, the exhibition will feature many of the top brands and suppliers with new products, special offers and innovation for you to see, all under one roof.



From the latest skin technology to lasers and the rest, get up to date information and guidance on the latest innovation.

Mesotherapy, Cryotherapy, Microblading and much more will be explained in full to give you all the information you need about these procedures and treatments



Giving you essential tools to make a success of your business. Ranging from social media planning to pricing for profit.

If you work with nails you should attend these seminars. Charging to make a profit, the latest techniques, styles and ideas.

New Venue

New Concept

Visit to get the full details on this must attend event and book your place for these superb seminars.

professional beauty cape town


‘Show’ to good advantage This year the Professional Beauty Cape Town Expo (26 and 27 March) moves to an exciting new venue – The Lookout at the V&A Waterfront – where all the latest products, trends and innovations in beauty, skincare, nails, medical aesthetics, equipment, devices and salon/spa software will be on display.


ccording to Phil Woods, commercial director of TE Trade Events, the organisers of Professional Beauty Cape Town, the decision to move the show to The Lookout was due to a desire to re-energise the event and give exhibitors a more intimate experience. “This glass-sided locale is, we believe, more conducive to the beauty industry, with uninterrupted views of the ocean on one side and Table Mountain on the other.

“As an added attraction for beauty professionals, the 2017 event will place much more emphasis on education. To this end we have devised four different seminar programmes for visitors to the show to choose from, namely: Advanced Therapist & Medical Aesthetics; Business; Nails; and Skincare & Equipment Innovation. All seminars will have an entry fee of only R50 and booking details are on our website (www.probeauty.,” explains Woods.


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Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017

professional beauty cape town


Show Preview At the time of going to press (midDecember), several companies had already confirmed exhibition stands. Beauty Tech’s goal is to offer beauty therapists the best in equipment, services and support. The company supplies Vapozone, diamond + microdermabrasion, skin scrubber, digital 8 in 1 combo, epilation, ultrasound, g5, etc. As the original curable gel nail system, Bio Sculpture Gel is the luxury full service nail system specifically designed for professionals and formulated to keep the natural nail healthy.

Join E.Mi School on its stand to learn about the company’s exciting products. E.Mi products for nail design include all the necessary professional material that helps create a stylish manicure, both on artificial and natural nails. E.Mi is an advanced brand for nail industry leaders and stylish ladies. ESP, South Africa’s foremost Salon & Spa Management Software, was established in 1994 and has always focused exclusively on the salon and spa industry to create the most comprehensive management system in the world. A system proudly developed in South Africa, ESP prides itself on offering affordable software, support and training for everyone. Now used in over 2000 salons, spas and wellness centres in South Africa and throughout the world, ESP is passionate about being great and leaves no stone unturned to ensure customer satisfaction with its software, training, support, business intelligence, business consulting, SMS and even hardware products.

Cal-Mo (Calgel) loves nails and has been in business for over 20 years. Visit the stand for live nail art demonstrations and information on training courses. Show visitors will have the opportunity to touch and apply the company’s gels. At Professional Beauty Cape Town, Cashmere & Co will be showcasing its new and luxurious massage, body, hand and foot range infused with Fynbos essential oils. Visitors will stand a chance of winning a hamper.

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017

Lipidol & Bio-Oil: Bio Oil is a specialist skincare oil that helps improve the appearance of scars, stretch marks and uneven skin tone. It is also effective for ageing and dehydrated skin. Bio Oil has won 224 skincare awards and has become the No.1 selling scar and stretch mark product in 18 countries since its global launch in 2002. Lipidol is a range of six oils for daily skincare from the makers of BioOil. The range includes two wash-off products – a Cleansing Face Oil and

Cleansing Body Oil – that remove dirt without stripping the skin’s natural oily layer; and four leave-on products – an After Shower Oil, Sunscreen Oil (SPF 20), Overnight Face Oil and After Shave Oil – that supplement the skin’s oily layer to help it retain its moisture.

Lay’s Beauty is home to some innovative and effective beauty products that have been both tried and tested. Show visitors are invited to stand for lots of exciting specials on massage oils, tissue oils, creams and soaps. Latest products such as Lay’s Hair Oil Spray, Pain Oil Spray and Advanced Lightening Cream have really taken off well and testimonials from clients continue to flow in.

The art of creating and maintaining beautiful nails requires creativity, excellent products and years of experience. nailsforu has been a purveyor of this fine art for long enough to understand the importance of every single facet of the artistic process, as well as the necessity for professional training programmes and realistic pricing structures backed by outstanding service.

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professional beauty cape town


Visit Rapple Salon Products and get up to a 15% discount on any products or furniture purchased while stock lasts.

Advanced Therapist & Medical Aesthetics Seminars

Rani Kone's wide range of products includes the range of Henna Palm Decoration products. Businesses are welcome to discuss long-term relationships like the distributorship of Rani Kone products in their region An aloe-based product will be launched by SalonCare. Visitors to the stand will be able to receive a 10% discount on all SalonCare products. There will be special prices on the improved concept: UNISEX Advanced Range. APS will be demonstrating to salon owners how offering a STUDEX® ear-piercing service can increase both income and foot traffic into their business. APS systems are very easy to use and extremely hygienic and can be used for belly- and nose-piercing, as well as for earpiercing. The company looks forward to meeting both new and existing customers.

To Young Nails, customer service is no joke. Young Nails is passionate about being the nail salon and nail tech’s support system. The company has done everything in its power to create the very best in the business.

A STUDEX® Ear Piercing Service online at in your business will:increase foot traffic

Included in the Educational programme at the Professional Beauty Cape Town Expo are the Advanced Therapist & Medical Aesthetics Seminars for all those therapists and medical aesthetics practitioners who are eager to expand their knowledge and learn about the latest international trends and techniques. Says programme director, Karen Ellithorne: “We ran the first ever Advanced Therapist & Medical Aesthetics Seminars event at the 2016 Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo and it was a great success. Each session was packed and we received a lot of positive feedback. “Drawing on that success, we are highly motivated to draw up an equally enticing programme of seminars for the Cape Town event.”

Topics likely to be on the programme include: Medical Facials (an increasingly popular trend that promotes the benefits of combining peeling and micro needling in a single session); Advanced Peels; Different Treatments for Different Decades (a doctor’s perspective on appropriate medical aesthetics treatments for the 20s, 30s, 40s, 50s and 60s); Wellness & Vitamin Drips; The PRP (Platelet Rich Plasma) Revival; Lip Fillers (how lip fillers can be used to rejuvenate the lips); Male Rejuvenation (how popular are toxins, fillers and peels with male clients); and Vaginal Rejuvenation. To check updates on the programme for the Advanced Therapist & Medical Aesthetics Seminars log on to

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017



Boost your business with skin diagnostics Have you ever dreamed of having a clinic where you have a reputation that surpasses the competition? A place where staff prescribes correct treatments and products for each of your clients’ individual and ever changing needs? A place where you can’t keep product on the shelf and your appointment book is bursting at the seams? Dream no longer, writes Christina Bowman.


ver the last 20 years in the industry, we have experienced a complete transformation (for the most part) whereby we are no longer seen as ‘painting nails and looking pretty’, but as professional establishments where knowledge,

skills and ingredients are second to none. In truth, it needs to be this way if we are to keep up with Mrs General Public, who is more educated and definitely more product/ resultssavvy than back in the days where salons had pretty pink gowns (no offence if you still love pink) and the

treatments just smelled and felt nice but did next to nothing. Statistics back in the early 1990s declared that only 5% of the population visited skincare centres. Whilst we have come a lot further in the last 10 to 20 years, we still have a long way to go. Near enough is no longer good enough – if we are to aspire to succeed in the growing industry, it will take much more than asking questions and guessing you have the correct cream for Mr and Mrs Client and if they like the smell and feel. It will take a specific in-depth knowledge of the skin and the willingness to step into the future of the skin diagnosis. I believe that skin diagnostics are the way of the future.

Analytical approach Skin diagnostic equipment has been available for years, from the humble ‘Maggie lamp’ to the ‘Woods lamp’, skin scanner and many, many others. But even though these are great tools, in a hectic salon environment with backto-back appointments, even these terrific pieces of equipment can be left covered in dust and grossly underused. How many of us can honestly say we spend more than five minutes

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017

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Crucial considerations diagnosing our clients’ skin before diving into our favourite treatment of the month? Yet this is what is required to sell our findings when it comes to consultations, and to lead to treatment courses including a home-care component. Is it possible to make a stand when so many salons and clinics are cutting the corners? I believe it is. Sometimes it’s very tempting to opt for the latest ‘fads’ in the treatments, products and machinery to make more money and

cut costs, but in the end it may do you a disservice, as the result can be short-lived or create more future skin concerns and potentially ruin your credibility as a therapist or a clinic. It is one thing to stay up to date with the latest and greatest, but it is another to dive into it. Often people use products simply because they happen to have a higher mark-up or the promise of ‘quick results’. If you are a younger therapist desiring to gain confidence in

• Does the skin diagnostic equipment give accurate readings and relevant data? (Beware of cheap imitations.) • Is it easy to use and portable (in the case of multi-cubicle or small salons)? • How cost-effective is it? Will it truly grow your business? • Is there after-sales support and comprehensive training offered with your purchase? • Will the equipment give a product prescription based on evidence obtained from the skin analysis reading? • Does the choice in the skin diagnostic equipment consist of an all-in-one solution or does it require separate entities to use the complete facility? • Are multi-function and multilingual settings available for specific consumer/ customer groups.

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Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017



correct skin analysis, skin diagnostic equipment will create an environment where the consultations and prescriptions are not ‘hit and miss’. You will no longer be crossing your fingers that you made the right decision for your client, as the results will be correct each and every time, allowing you also to track the success of their journey with you.

Moving your clinic into the new era of skin diagnostics is one of the most important decisions you will make.

What to look for A leading skin diagnostic machine provides the following: Detailed programmes for different areas of the body; Face programme (hydration, sebum, PH and elasticity tests with advice on skincare); Micro-camera (visual assessment and enhancement of images). The machine should efficiently analyse wrinkles, hydration/moisture, pigmentation, keratine, capillaries, pores, acne, oil, and sensitivity. A wide range of magnification (10-400x) in the machine gives the following view: general overview of the skin; detail of the smallest imperfection; and assessment of specific conditions such as sensitive skin, acne and cellulite. Special polarised filters in the machine mean that elements below the surface of the skin, like capillaries and accumulation of melanin, are analysed.

Prescription The most important feature of great skin diagnostic equipment should be the ability to recommend a full prescription at the end of the skin analysis. A great skin analysis system will allow you to enter all your products

no matter how many ranges you stock, and also the capability to enter the information of their benefits to match to the skin conditions of your clients. This prescription will then be tailored for the skin concerns that have been diagnosed on the day. There is no way a clinic can go wrong with this kind of technology. Any therapist can now diagnose with confidence and accuracy – from the first-year apprentice to a senior that has been in our everchanging industry for many years. Everybody will win – your staff will accurately diagnose your clients, and your clients will have the correct prescriptions for home care and inclinic treatments. Your clinic will turn a much larger profit in retail sales and in-clinic treatment due to this amazing technology. Don’t ask yourself, ‘Can I afford this in my clinic?’ You should be asking, ‘How can I afford not to have the skin analysis equipment?’ Near enough is not good enough! In conclusion, investing in the correct skin diagnostic equipment together with physiological cosmetic products that encourage the skin’s natural ability to regenerate and function will elevate your salon, spa or clinic beyond your expectations and the competition, giving yourself and staff renewed knowledge, power, and enthusiasm. So, what are you waiting for? PB

Christina Bowman has been in the industry for over 15 years, owns her own clinic in Sandton and has focused on the importance of correct and accurate skin diagnostics. She has a BHSc in Aesthetics from UNE in Australia and has worked for plastic surgeons and international cosmeceuticals product brands. Email

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017

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Out of Africa

According to Census 2011, 79.2% of South Africans are black, making it essential for salons to be equipped with the necessary expertise and products to be able to treat the darker Fitzpatrick Skin Types (IV to VI), writes Joanna Sterkowicz.


ommenting on the larger melanocyte size than that differences between of their lighter skin counterparts. African skin and The production of pigment is a Caucasian skin, Dr natural process that can easily Mothomang Diaho of become disrupted by external Spiral Aloe Lifestyle Clinic in Dainfern, factors including excessive UV Johannesburg says: “The colour of the exposure, medications, illnesses skin does not affect the number and inflammation. Overof melanocytes in skin stimulation of the tissue. Rather, it is the melanocyte, as in Although dark size and distribution the case of direct of the melanosomes UV exposure skins benefit from that is different – or prolonged reduced risk of sun damage the bigger they inflammation – as melanin absorbs and are and the more within the skin, there are, the will result in scatters energy of UV light – darker the skin.” more pigment it is still vitally important Ursula Hunt of being produced DermaFix adds: than that which to use sunscreen on a “The melanocyte is is normal, as daily basis. the pigment-producing the melanocyte cell and the colour of skin endeavours to protect is dependent on how much the skin.” pigment the melanocyte is genetically Diaho stresses the importance of programmed to produce. A d a r ke r sunscreen: “Although dark skins skin will typically benefit from reduced risk of sun portray with a damage – as melanin absorbs and scatters energy of UV light – it

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is still vitally important to use sunscreen on a daily basis.” Dr Lerato Masemola of Thari Health in Boskruin, Randburg, concurs: “Sun exposure is responsible for most (up to 90%) of skin damage and age-related changes. The mistake made by a lot of African women is that they believe that their dark skin protects them against the effects of the sun in every respect. This is not only false but also dangerous, as it makes them vulnerable to skin cancers (melanoma), which may go undiagnosed and therefore untreated for a long time.”

Pigmentation Diaho points out that African skins suffer from pigmentary problems, such as hyperpigmentation and hypopigmentation. “Dark skins (especially those that are sensitive) therefore need to be careful of cosmetic treatments that cause injury to the skin. This includes lasers, dermabrasion and peels. Also, certain ingredients such as benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, retinoids and glycolic acid, should be avoided. “However, certain peels and laser treatments, if administered correctly, can be beneficial depending on the depth of the pigmentation being treated.” According to Diaho, eczema is believed to occur twice as frequently in darker skin. “If it is not treated early enough it can increase the risk of pigmentation. Moisturising the area and using prescribed steroid creams R is advisable.

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017

african skin


Certain peels and laser treatments, if administered correctly, can be beneficial depending on the depth of the pigmentation being treated.

Masemola says that various treatment options are available to address pigmentation and scarring, the commonest being a change of skincare routine and products. “This

is often done along with careful use of a Tretinoin or Hydroquinone cream, or a mixture carefully measured by a compounding pharmacy, and prescribed with special instructions for a specified period of time to avoid overuse/abuse and further complications. I cannot stress enough that this must be done under qualified medical advice and monitoring and not by just buying products over the counter indiscriminately. “Another common treatment modality for scarring and pigmentation is chem-exfoliation, commonly known as chemical peels. A series of light or superficial peels may be done for minor problems and good results can be achieved (typically six treatments are necessary for visible and long lasting results). “However, for more severe pigmentation problems, a deeper peel may be necessary. A deep peel needs time to prepare the skin to maximise results and avoid complications such as de-pigmentation (hypo-pigmentation, leaving pale spots or patches of skin) or further pigmentation due to irritation of the melanocytes (PIH – post

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017

“Acne is linked to hyperpigmentation, and therefore of greater concern to darker skins. Although oral antibiotics can be used to treat acne, these can also cause a darkening of the skin for several months after use. “Darker skins are also more at risk of developing keloid scarring post injury. One can try to treat this condition with cortisone injections, or radiation therapy, or removing the keloid with laser or surgery.”

Various modalities

inflammatory hyper-pigmentation). Preparation time is typically six to 10 weeks, the longer the better. Once the skin is ready, the deep peel can be done.” Masemola stresses that if the skin is prepared properly with pre-peel, and the peel is done well and post-peel care is also done properly, one deep peel may be all that is needed to take care of pigmentation and scarring, while rejuvenating the skin for a more youthful look at the same time.

Melanin suppression DermFix MD Prescriptives SkinLite can be used on skin discolorations to create an even, radiant skin tone. Says DermaFix’s Ursula Hunt: “This unique triple-action formulation works by suppressing the formation of melanin and is recommended for use both pre- and post-advanced protocols. MD Prescriptives SkinLite assists in the prevention of postinflammatory hyperpigmentation and is suitable for use on all skin types and ethnicities. “Sun exposure surrounding these advanced protocols should also be R

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by DermaFixÂŽ



Unique triple-action formulation Inhibitory effects on Melanogenesis Prevents Tyrosinase activity Effective on all skin types and ethnicities

african skin

44 SPF 50 is an absolute essential alongside the use of MD Prescriptives Vitamin A Propionate, providing high protection against both UVA and UVB radiation, and should especially be worn between 10am and 4pm when the sun is at its harshest,” explains Hunt.

More layers

kept to an absolute minimum as UV radiation is known to be one of the main triggers of hyperpigmentation. DermaFix MD Prescriptives SPF 50 offers high UVA and high UVB sun protection and is both SANS 1557:2013 and ISO 24444, ISO 24443 approved.” Hunt notes that a skin concern often expressed by dark-skinned male clients is that of pseudofolliculitis barbae, which occurs as a result of shaving the face. “As beard hairs are coarse and curved, they easily become ingrown, thereby causing problematic eruptions that lead to darkened areas on the facial skin. DermaFix

According to Jacqui Faucitt of RégimA, black skin is thicker than white skin due to the stratum corneum having more layers, a more compact dermis with larger, more numerous fibroblasts. “There is increased cohesiveness which helps minimise facial wrinkles and helps reduce potential for irritation,” says Faucitt. “Black skin has a greater pore size with increased sebum secretion, although lower ceramides than white skins. The increased lipids ensure high moisture levels, however these can result in an oily problematic skin due to higher natural microbial skin flora being present. “Glutathione is a natural antioxidant which is also known to inhibit epidermal melanogenesis. Black skins contain less glutathione than white skins, leading to darker skin. Melanocytes in black skin have up to 10 times more tyrosinase activity and produce up to 10 times more melanin than melanocytes derived from white Whether there skin. Ethnic skins are is a major or minor far more resistant to photoageing skin trauma, by reducing because of the inflammation as quickly melanocytes and there is as possible, one can minimise slower melanin or eliminate potential degradation in scarring. black skins. “Post-inflammatory Conditioning Alkaline hyperpigmentation Wash is a professional occurs when the skin reacts protocol provided by selected to an injury (which may include DermaFix stockists, and may be skin trauma such as, laser, deep performed alongside a client’s usual peels, dermabrasion, over exposure shaving routine to help soften the skin, to sunlight, etc.) by becoming minimise regrowth of hair as well as inflamed. Inflammation triggers assisting to alleviate the pigmented production of more melanin in the lesions that often accompany this skin, although it is produced unevenly concern. in spots or patches, and not across “Homecare recommendation is the the entire area of the skin. If overinclusion of MD Prescriptives Vitamin production of melanin occurs in the A Propionate used nightly to help upper layers of skin, the spots are a minimise skin scarring, as it normalises darker shade of brown, if in the lower skin functioning and increases cellular layers of skin, an ashy discoloration turnover. Daily use of MD Prescriptives appears. Hyperpigmentation or post-

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african skin

45 inflammatory hyperpigmentation is more obvious in darker skins, so even a few pimples can leave residual black marks. “Whether there is a major or minor skin trauma, by reducing inflammation as quickly as possible, one can minimise or eliminate potential scarring. Products containing anti-inflammatory actives should always be used by anyone prone to pigmentation, particularly in ethnic skins.” Faucitt states that experience has shown that post inflammatory hyperpigmentation can be treated extremely successfully with a series of RégimA Power Peel treatments and home care with active Vitamin C and Natural AHAs nightly and daily sun protection. “Also, Rapid Rejuvo Masque, which is a very quick professional in-salon treatment, has been proving to be a winner with the darker skins.” For home care Faucitt recommends RégimA’s Derma Zest Cleansing + Toning Gel; Pigment Perfector; Acne Attack Rescue Serum; Techno-5 Resurfacer; Omega High Impact Night Complex; Scar Repair Forte Serum; and Daily Intelligent Sebum Solver.

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Pigmented lesions Lifecycle and hormonal changes can affect the distribution of colour (melanin) in the skin, leading to the appearance of sun spots, age spots, or melisma – a dark, patchy facial discoloration condition. Says Andrew Best of Best Lasers: “Alma’s light-based and laser treatments remove the appearance of spots and pigmentation by targeting the melanin in the darkened area, clearing all layers of the pigmentation and revealing eventoned, unblemished skin. “These treatments are specially designed for patient comfort and are safe and effective for all skin types, including dark skin.”

Longer wavelengths Advances in the past decade have given rise to a range of devices that can be safely used to treat ethnic skin types, according to Naomi Olivier of Hitech Lasers. “Longer wavelength lasers such as the 810 Diode and 1064 nm Nd: YAG and fractional radiofrequency devices have all been developed for safe and effective treatment of pigmentary abnormalities, resurfacing and skin

tightening in ethnic skin.” Hitech Lasers’ subsidiary, Medilase, is the distributor of the Viora range of aesthetic systems ideally equipped for treatments of Fitzpatrick Skin Type V and VI skin conditions. The range includes three multi-technology platforms in the V-Series – Infusion, Mesotherapy and Pristine Microdermabrasion. “One of the most exciting advances in treatment of ethnic skins is the Fractional Radio Frequency treatments offered on the multi-technology platforms of the Viora,” continues Olivier. “At the forefront are non-invasive RF (radiofrequency) skin rejuvenation treatments. The RF light source targets water as its chromophore to produce dermal heating. This dermal heating results in an initial transient collagen fibre contraction followed by a well-documented inflammatory wound response that ultimately results in dermal remodelling and neo-collagenases. “The Viora V-Series offers different treatment options for safe and effective Asian and Dark skin rejuvenation.” PB

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017

african skin


Banishing blemishes Beauty therapists see a host of unsightly and uncomfortable skin blemishes on a daily basis. Janine Thomson provides some solutions. be found in areas where there is friction, and there is often a genetic component, associated with insulin resistance, or BirtHog Dube Syndrome, Acromegaly and Polycystic Ovary Syndrome. Because these are raised above the skin, treatment is focused in the epidermis. The healing rate is quick and there is no risk of scarring or hypo-pigmentation as long as treatment does not cause inflammation. The Lamprobe option can be used safely on dark skin colours.


Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH) Acquired hyper-melanosis can affect the epidermis or the dermis (or both) and leave very dark pigmented areas on the skin. It is imperative for the therapist to have a thorough knowledge of melanogenesis to determine what causes the inflammation that triggers the pigmentation. Are there ingrown hairs or pimples? I advise a pigment inhibiting topical treatment like Correctives Brighter Concentrate from Lamelle, in conjunction with a daily oral supplement with a high dosage of antioxidants to break down dermal pigmentation. Appropriate in-salon treatments include deep cleansing facials combined with chemical peels to address the acne, followed by a combination of the correct chemical peels and correct depth micro-needling to address the PIH.

Depmatosis Papulosa Nigra (DPN) DPN are numerous small, benign skin lesions or fibromas prevalent in

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017

These form when there is an overgrowth of cells within a sweat gland or suderiferous duct. The duct becomes enlarged by and clogged with extra cells, forming a hard, round, The healing raised bump. They are benign, rate is quick and there harmless and painless, but unsightly and uncomfortable, is no risk of scarring or and normally affect people hypo-pigmentation as long with diabetes, with a family history of Syringomas, or as treatment does not those living in very humid cause inflammation. areas who sweat profusely Fitzpatrick and whose perspiration gets Skin Types trapped under the cornified cells. V & VI. These Treatment includes Lamprobe and lesions are darkly BCA (Bichloracetic acid). pigmented with or without scales, and found most commonly on the face, around the Xanthelasma eyes, on the cheeks and neck area. These are soft yellowish plaques of lipids They can appear in adolescence and usually found underneath the skin in increase with age. Some 40-50% of the periorbital area. They are very tiny patients have a family history of DPN. to medium in size and some may be The only treatment to remove these raised. Some individuals are predisposed lesions flawlessly without leaving towards them as a result of poor lipid white or hypo-pigmentation marks is metabolism. These lesions can also the Lamprobe, as this radiofrequency- be removed non-invasively with the based technology is suitable for Lamprobe by drying up the lipids that have accumulated beneath the skin, African, Indian and Asian skin. working only topically on the surface of the skin in just one treatment. PB Skin tags Although unattractive, these are harmless growths that appear mostly Janine Thomson is the owner of, and full-time skin therapist on middle-aged men and women and at, the Skin & Body Clinic. She are formed when the area of the outer has been the distributor and layer of skin begins to overgrow and trainer for Lamprobe SA (Pty) envelope collagen fibres protruding Ltd since 2011. from the surrounding skin. They can

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profesional make-up

48 Prime products

Kryolan Professional Makeup’s primers ensure smoother application and durability. Ultra Underbase hydrates and softens skin, while Perfect Matt smooths out irregularities. The HD Micro Primer’s silk proteins regulate moisture levels, and Eyeshadow Primer protects the sensitive eye area. Silicone based, Make-Up Blend thins out cream consistencies.

011 786 8598

Mirror, mirror on the wall … In this special feature we put the spotlight on professional make-up, as used by make-up artists and/or sold in selected salons and spas.

Make-up inspired by you

Mii Cosmetics is a range of make-up that is set to launch this summer across South Africa. Mii’s creation has been inspired by the wants and wishes of beauty spa and salon devotees, as well as a team of make-up artists and skincare experts. Combining the finest ingredients, unrivalled expertise and effortless application, Mii offers something for everyone.

011 033 0500

Mineral mania

Glominerals is a mineral makeup product that is especially popular among salons as it is safe to be used directly after laser and microdermabrasion treatments, chemical peels and other facial treatments. It was specifically designed for problem skins that suffer from eczema, rosacea, acne etc.

021 552 6999 Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017

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49 Terrific trio

Hannon has introduced three make-up products, including Duo Shadow Smokey Eyes to create that perfect smoky eye for a night around town. Peachy Blusher is perfect for that natural flush of the cheeks, while Eternal Red Lipstick is a deep-set rouge, blended with equal quantities of warm and cool pigments, similar to those in our skin.

011 608 4065

Magnetised palettes

MC Makeup’s unique magnetised palettes in different sizes allow you to customise shades for eyes, cheeks and lips to suit the client’s needs. When the individual colour is finished, only the refill is purchased, eliminating unnecessary expense. MC Makeup offers an extensive range of high-quality, non-carcinogenic and affordable professional make-up.

031 312 3502

Pencil power

Bodyography Brow Assist is a long-wearing, mineral-based, double-ended, automatic brow pencil and brush that has an exclusive triangularshaped tip for perfect shaping and defining. The teardrop shape allows the pencil to create both thicker strokes and precise thin strokes. Brow Assist comes in two shades, Taupe and Brown.

011 086 9800

Smooth and flawless

MUD’s rich and creamy liquid foundation contains high-quality silicone-based compounds and is designed to stay on the surface of the skin, giving it a smooth, flawless finish. Hydrating with natural aloe vera and Shea butter, this lightweight formula evens out the skin while allowing it to breathe.

011 656 0120

A new age

Babor’s AGE make-up collection has launched with impressive anti-ageing effects and ultra-modern textures. The range includes AGE Serum Foundation (ultra-light and moisturising); Perfect Finish Foundation (combines a silky compact foundation and powder); Deluxe Foundation (rich and creamy); and Mattifying Foundation (matte finish).

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permanent make-up


Power to the brow Microblading has become increasingly popular and competitive in South Africa over the past two years, writes Yvette Zacharowitz.


ought after by both young and old clients, microblading is a procedure where small incisions are made in the skin with a microblade in order to mimic hair strokes. These incisions are filled with pigment to create the effect of hair simulation on the brow area. The vast array of colours the permanent make-up (PMU) artist can choose from allows every set of brows to be perfect and unique. A correctly performed microblading treatment (with a follow-up visit) should last between 12 and 18 months. Each company or specialist seems to be naming their type of microblading by another name, depending on the technique used or blade used. Therefore terms like, for instance, 3D brows and Japanese Eyebrow Embroidery, exist. In broad terms they are all the same thing; some microblading treatments are done just as structured strokes or hairlines, others are shaded as well, and then there are hybrid brows which combine the use of the hand tool and a digital device to create the illusion of hair and shading.

Styles ‘Powder brows’ give the illusion of a soft powder behind the brow hair. This is very popular and we are seeing a huge comeback in the powder brow as it has a much longer lifespan than microblading, and gives a soft, classic brow. A ‘powder brow’ that is done by a digital device can last between three and five years. The ever popular ‘ombre brow’ is a version of a ‘powder brow’ and is a style that is classy and timeless.

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017

Cautions When using inferior ‘inks’ in microblading, the brows are prone to changing colour. High-quality pigments are formulated in a way that ensure colour consistency and longevity, without turning strange colours. Done by the correct specialist, there will be slight discomfort but minimal pain if any at all, during the treatment, as well-trained PMU artists use effective and safe numbing agents. Scabbing should be minimal; however it will occur, so it is advisable for clients to do their treatments when they can afford to have the scabbing for between four and five days. It is vital to make sure that your chosen specialist is in possession of a blood-borne pathogens certificate that

is current (they are valid for one year from date of issue) to ensure that she/ he is practising safe hygiene More and more salons are offering microblading treatments these days. However, they are not all specialists and you are encouraged to do your research so that you are in the best possible hands for a treatment that is incredibly difficult to reverse. PB Yvette Zacharowitz of Nouveau Contour South Africa is an international master intra dermal pigmentologist, who has practised locally and internationally for more than 15 years. She has developed unique optical illusion techniques to create a realistic areola and nipple for cancer patients.

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permanent make-up


The shaved head illusion

Philippa Crighton, a member of PCASA (Permanent Cosmetic Association of South Africa), gives the lowdown on the permanent make-up technique known as hair follicle simulation.


imply put, hair follicle simulation is a process whereby pigment is inserted into the dermal tissue of the scalp to simulate a shaved head with a very slight stubble. Another name for hair follicle simulation is tricopigmentation, a term coined in Europe and the UK. It is really one and the same thing, but they like to try and differentiate the two by saying that tricopigmention is the temporary version of scalp micropigmentation. However, anyone who has worked with tattooing, permanent make-up (either cosmetic, remedial or decorative) will be able to tell you that there is no temporary version of tattooing. More names for hair follicle simulation are micro hair tattooing (later to be termed micro hair technique), scalp micropigmentation and cosmetic transdermal hair replication. Obviously all these different names just created confusion in the marketplace – essentially it is all the same thing. Hair follicle simulation has been around since at least 2002, but has only really gained traction in South Africa in the past three to four years in South Africa, to the detriment of many poor guinea pigs. The replication of real shaven hair on the scalp is a highly specialised process, and should only be attempted by those with specific knowledge in this field. There is no place for providers that ‘have a go’ at this. It takes months of training and years of experience to perfect the SMP

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(scalp micropigmentation) technique, and is best completed by those who do nothing else.

Equipment All machines (digital, rotary, coil, linear or hand method) can be used for the process, the more important aspect is the needle type, the pigment used and the technician’s knowledge and experience. It is important to understand how your machine works and even more important to understand the physiology of the scalp. The skin of the scalp is extremely porous and absorptive; if a cheap machine with too much vibration is used with the incorrect pigments and wrong needle configuration, the pigment will flood under the skin, making the simulation look like splodges rather than tiny hair follicles. The roller method of hair simulation is an extremely difficult technique to master and, in my opinion, usually looks too solid to simulate hair stubble.

Pigments Black pigment must never, under any circumstances, be used regardless of whether it is organic or inorganic. The pigment composition is extremely important, as the type of skin on the scalp is totally different to any other part of the body. Therefore, a pure organic pigment is not an option as the particles in an organic pigment are so tiny, and flooding is even more prevalent. Special scalp pigments

have been produced for a reason, and it is important to use them – this is not just a marketing trick. It is imperative to use the correct composition of organic and inorganic components. Once the pigment is implanted correctly, it is a tattoo, so it lasts indefinitely. Every person differs depending on sun exposure, medications taken, exercise, diet and products used on the scalp. PB Philippa Crichton has been involved in the beauty industry since 1985 and did her first permanent make-up course in 1990, learning the hand method. She then made it her mission to learn everything there was to learn about the art and is a member of the SPCP (Society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals).

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017

permanent make-up


Clever about colour Nikki van Gend looks at the different types of pigment commonly used in permanent make-up.

the term organic as we know it today. The bottom line is that these days all pigments are synthetically produced to save the time and cost of extracting them from nature.


What to look out for

igment composition falls into two categories: inorganic (iron oxide) and synthetic organic (e.g. carbon). The general confusion that permanent make-up (PMU) technicians have is whether one category of pigment is better than the other. The truth is that there are very good uses for each one to meet our PMU needs. Iron oxide molecules are larger and therefore the more stable pigment, whereas organic molecules like carbon are smaller and therefore have a tendency to migrate under the skin more easily. From a colour point of view, iron oxide colours are more dull, muted and less vibrant, and therefore ideal for brow colours, where one doesn't want brightness. In addition, iron oxide colours don't contain any blue and again this is important for eyebrow undertones. Organic colours are generally brighter and are therefore

fantastic for lip colours. In short, there is a place for each composition of pigment in the PMU world. What is more important is that the technician have the necessary knowledge on how to use each type of pigment and where. This is where colour theory training is so essential. A PMU artist should ideally know the pros and cons of each type of pigment and not discriminate between the two, but utilise both to the advantage of the client.

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017

Term-savvy Sometimes people think that the term organic refers to what we think about when we buy food. But, in the PMU context, it is absolutely the opposite. All pigments are made up synthetically in a laboratory. The only reason why the term organic is used is because it might have been something that once had life (e.g. carbon). In fact, iron oxide also comes from the earth naturally and would fall into our perceptions of

Regardless of which pigment you choose to go with, it’s important that to check that the manufacturer uses good quality raw material for the pigment to be appropriately concentrated to ensure a good result and a long lasting, stable lifespan in the skin. One of the things that is crucial for a manufacturer is to have a reference for the colour code being used. In the last 100 years many colorants have been tested by the FDA as safe for human use in cosmetics, food and drugs. Another thing that a pigment brand has to be able to provide the technician, is the S.D.S (Safety Data Sheet). This gives all the specifications in detail of the pigment. PB Nikki van Gend of Image Division is a qualified somatologist and permanent make-up artist and trainer (Certified Permanent Cosmetic Professional). Van Gend is the authorised distributor for LiPigments in South Africa.

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Passage to India

Sonette van Rensburg reflects on her experiences as competition director for Professional Beauty India’s first-ever nail competition.


t the beginning of 2016 I had the opportunity to direct the Professional Beauty Nail Competition in Dubai. It was an amazing experience to go back to Dubai after having lived and worked there for 12 years. The industry has really evolved and grown, with nail techs far more passionate and serious about their careers than before. To my surprise, I was offered yet another opportunity to direct an

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from very positive to very negative, international competition in September so became quite apprehensive and last year, this time for the Professional wondered what I had let myself in for. Beauty India Expo in Mumbai. Called ‘Nail Premier League’, this was to be Competition preparation their first nail competition. I agreed to I started my preparations early on in do it and was quite excited. However, the year, compiling categories and the more I told people about it, the information, only to get a million more I was asked: ‘Have you ever questions thrown back at me been to India? It’s like no and being repeatedly told: place you have ever ‘You must remember been to!” When I first that India is different!’ I heard so many So, I then different stories, started preparing for went back to this competition, I had no my information idea what the Indian industry and changed it accordingly, only was like, nor what the to get more doubts people were like or what and questions thrown at me. At the to expect. time, I wondered what could be so different and why was it so challenging to compile competition categories and relevant information. After months of preparation and plenty of back and forth, with loads of input from all the various experts in the Indian industry (who would also act as judges), we finalised the information. I thought that would be that until I got there. About one month before the R

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017


54 judge fake hands against competitors with models. I explained to the Professional Beauty India team that this would not work and that if we wanted to prepare their local nail techs for competing in international competitions, then we should persuade them to arrange models. I was told that if they couldn’t then we would have to accept it. I was even more apprehensive after hearing this. competition I had another challenge thrown at me, one which, to be honest, astounded me; I was told that the competitors would not be able to bring models…WHAT? A nail competition with no models??!! How is that going to work, I asked, and why are they not bringing models? It was explained to me that a lot of the competitors would be coming from quite far afield and that they could barely afford travel costs for themselves, let alone a model. I then asked what they were going to do, as they couldn’t compete without a model. I was told that they would use fake hands and that I wasn’t allowed to penalise them for doing so. Fake hands – you can’t be serious, I thought. I have used them for training, but certainly not as a competition model. I wondered how we could

Off to Mumbai Eventually it was time for me to be on my way and I had so many thoughts going through my head of what it would be like, what the people would be like, and what the standard of work would be. Most of all I wondered how on earth we were going to judge fake hands! After about 14 hours of travel I arrived in Mumbai. The airport was quiet and not very busy, until I stepped outside into the most unbelievable humidity and hustle and bustle of people, as I looked for my driver. Nothing or nobody could’ve prepared me for what I was about to experience and see. From feeling totally exhausted after the flight I was suddenly wide-eyed all the way to my hotel. It was the middle of the

day and the streets were alive; it’s difficult to explain unless you see and hear it for yourself. Shacks, one on top of the other, in between big buildings and hundreds of little makeshift shops selling absolutely everything, with people everywhere going about their daily chores and a mass of cars, bicycles, motorbikes, buses and construction trucks all converging together, constantly tooting away. I eventually got to the hotel with my ears ringing. I could hardly sleep with wondering about what was going to transpire at the competition.

Competition day

Arriving at the exhibition hall I was met with a warm welcome by the organisers and judging team. The competition was to run over two days, with the first day being the Mixed Media Nail Art and Gel Polish categories. Competitors eventually started arriving and what a turnout – much more than I expected. They looked a little lost but were all smiles and ready to compete. I briefed them according to the rules and regulations in English, even though some of them could not fully understand me. They listened carefully and thank goodness for Gurpreet Seble, who translated for me.

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017

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With more than 18 competitors in the Gel Polish category and 15 competitors in the Mixed Media Nail Art category, the competition started, and what a relief to see that no fake hands made an appearance. Somehow they had all made the effort to bring a model, all of whom were beautifully dressed for the occasion. While the floor judges made their way around the arena to mark them, I kept a keen eye out to check that everything was in order and that rules were being adhered to. I noticed that many of the competitors were going to lose valuable points because of consultation, hygiene and table set-up; products were not properly labelled and UV lamps were dirty. Only a small handful of competitors had followed our rules and hygiene standards, so this was a big concern. With Mixed Media Nail Art being an open theme, competitors were able

to do whatever they wanted, creating some interesting, fun, and absolutely amazing works of art. At the end of the competition, the judges and I were pleasantly surprised at the level of skill shown. But we also realised that Indian nail techs had much to learn to uplift their standards. During the awards ceremony and presentations, each of the judges (including myself) spoke to the competitors about the importance of maintaining standards and certain practices as nail techs. The competitors all sat patiently and quietly, listening to everything we were saying, smiling and nodding as we spoke, some asking very pertinent questions.

Day Two On the next day, the Tip Overlay Liquid & Powder and Gel categories were scheduled, and a whole lot more competitors arrived. We noticed that many of them had competed the previous day. As the judges made their way around the arena again to conduct the pre-judging, I noticed them smiling. It was soon evident that the previous day’s competitors were now implementing everything we had said to them the day before; nail stations were perfectly set up, hygiene standards were adhered to and they all looked very professional. Besides the huge smile on my face, I can’t begin to explain how this made

me feel; in fact the whole team of judges were so pleased and happy to see the difference. We all agreed that if this was all the competition ultimately achieved, then it was well worth it. When I first started preparing for this competition, I had no idea what the Indian industry was like, nor what the people were like or what to expect. Every single competitor, whether they won or not, were all smiles and very grateful for the experience. I have travelled across the world to work with and educate people, and this was one of the most incredibly humbling and rewarding experiences I have had. It made me realise just how privileged we are in South Africa, with so much at our disposal and that we have so much to be thankful for. We should never take anything for granted, especially knowledge. What really gives me a wonderful sense of achievement is to witness education being taken seriously and the acknowledgement that this is the key to success. I would like to thank the Professional Beauty team in India for all their assistance and making me feel so welcome. And many thanks to the lovely and amazing ladies who made up the judging team – Gurpreet Seble, Meera Mevawala, Olena Paul, Kavita Sheth and Runa McNamara – for their support and expertise. ‘We are all humble learners and in teaching others, we teach ourselves.’ PB

Sonette van Rensburg has over 27 years of experience in the nail and beauty industry and has worked as a therapist, educator and consultant.

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Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017

hair news


Crowning glory Tress-a-licious news from the hair front.

‘Blond’ moment

Amazing Argan

Indola Divine Blond includes the Blonde & Force Complex, a special mix of hydrolysed keratin and luxurious silk particles that penetrate each strand to regenerate the internal structure of the hair, reduce breakage, restore elasticity and promote an overall healthy look. Blonde & Glow Complex eliminates yellow or brassy tones while boosting shine.

Hannon’s Argan Oil Sulphate Free Shampoo and Conditioner nourishes and protects the fragile keratin layer essential for the longevity of a Brazilian Blowout and similar keratin hairstraightening treatments. Infused with Argania Spinosa (Argan Oil), these Hannon products leave hair shinier, with fewer frizzes and static. 011 608 4065

011 617 2615

Frozen colour

Shampooheads Professional was created by Geoff and Colette Bell specifically for teens and tweens. The range was designed and developed with major contributions from teens and tweens, including the Bell’s own kids, who were the inspiration behind the brand. This input from kids provided true insights into their thought processes and demands.

Providing a rich colour, a glossy shine and a healthy glow, the BC Color Freeze hair care range now contains pH 4.5 Balancer Technology for a longerlasting colour. If used in combination with an Igora Royal hair colorant, the client’s colour will seem impeccable until their next Schwarzkopf Professional colour appointment.

021 448 8847

011 617 2615

Doing it for the kids

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017

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medical aesthetics


Medical aesthetics trends report As the new year gets underway, Karen Ellithorne reflects on some of the trends that are currently dominating aesthetic clinics countrywide and look to continue well into 2017. MEDICAL FACIALS ARE GROWING IN POPULARITY A good medical aesthetician paired with an excellent cosmeceutical brand can be one of the best secrets to slowing down the skin’s ageing process. It is also currently one of the fastest-growing sectors in the beauty industry. A medical aesthetician is able to offer slightly more aggressive treatments than a normal spa therapist as she works under the guidance and supervision of a medical

doctor. However, you can make an appointment directly with her for your monthly treatment. With a wide range of cosmeceutical products currently available in South Africa and the continued research into the development of active ingredients, this sector is predicted to be an area of massive growth in the next few years. It is vitally important that skincare therapists keep up with these exciting developments and attend regular educational events so that they can stay abreast of these exciting developments and changes.

STARTING YOUNGER AND YOUNGER According to the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery, millennials will increasingly become users of plastic surgery. Twenty-somethings represent approximately 20% of the cosmetic surgery population, and this statistic is only going to increase. This could possibly be due to social media and the increased pressure on the youth of today to appear to be perfect and to constantly compare themselves with each other, causing low self-esteem issues. Due to the fact that non-invasive treatments have become more easily accessible, it is important that, as an industry, we educate the youth

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of today and make them aware of the potential dangers of going to unethical or unqualified practitioners and skincare centres for treatments.

WELLNESS AND BEAUTY WORKING HAND IN HAND It is certainly nothing new for aesthetic doctors to be taking an integrative approach to skincare, and educating their patients on diet and stress. However, the big 2016 skincare trend has been the introduction of not only applying your key skincare ingredients but rather sipping or infusing them via R intravenous drips.

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017

medical aesthetics


Many companies are currently making beauty-enhancing beverages and supplements that are loaded with key active to help promote healthy glowing skin, help fight acne, decrease signs of ageing and prevent pigmentation. With an obvious connection between good nutrition and healthy skin, this is a trend that is expected to become quite large in 2017.

NON-INVASIVE TREATMENTS CONTINUE TO GROW With busy lifestyles and demanding jobs, not many people are able to afford more than a day or two of down time post any anti-ageing procedure. The trend has moved towards noninvasive treatments that you can slot in on a Friday afternoon and be back at work as normal on the Monday. One of the treatments that seem to have grown in popularity in 2016 is the PRP (platelet rich plasma) / /vampire facial done in conjunction with micro-needling. The purpose of this treatment is to stimulate the patient’s collagen production via the use of

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017

the patient’s own platelets and fibrin, which is separated from their own blood. This treatment is particularly good for volumising the face, neck and hands. Another treatment that is on trend at the moment is a new technology that works on plasma. These types of non-surgical devices are used for multiple purposes, but one of the main indications is for non-surgical blepharoplasty. This treatment is performed very effectively in a medical aesthetic

Dermal filler lip augmentation is a very useful tool in recreating a youthful look and is a trend that is set to continue to grow in 2017.

practice by a medical aesthetic practitioner, with minimal swelling and downtime. The patient is left with tiny scabs for three to seven days afterwards that can easily be covered with make-up.

KISSABLE LIPS One of the most common reasons woman are terrified of undergoing dermal filler lip augmentation is the fear of an oversized pout, otherwise known as a ‘trout pout’. This is an understandable concern. However, in the past, this result was only achieved by untrained or inexperienced doctors. With the recent introduction of Juvederm Vobella, women are becoming more comfortable with trying lip injections again.

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medical aesthetics

59 Dermal filler lip augmentation is a very useful tool in recreating a youthful look and is a trend that is set to continue to grow in 2017.

MALES UNDER PRESSURE Men are feeling the pressure to look the best version of themselves in 2017 too. This is partly due to an increased awareness that a healthier, youthful look works better for both business and social advancements. People’s lifespans are longer than they have ever been before and men have to compete in the market place with their younger counterparts for jobs. On a social level, some men may be recently divorced, or recently out of relationship, and are looking to attract a new partner. This is a rapidly increasing sector in the market with men having mostly wrinkle reduction injections, dermal fillers, laser resurfacing and skin peels.



“We have become comfortable with rejuvenating many different areas of our bodies, from faces to knees, yet, until recently, vaginal rejuvenation was an unmet need. There is now an incredibly popular, effective, easy and non-invasive treatment called Intima. “The specific requests I get in my clinic are to ‘shrink’ protruding labia minora (the inner lips), to plump up deflated, sagging labia minora (outer lips) and improve the tone of the perineum. Some added benefits we see are improved orgasms, lubrication and colour. Some women find stress incontinence is improved as well,” says Dr Catherine Davies. A vaginal makeover is not a new treatment on the market, but, as the consumer becomes aware of what is available through increased media coverage, it is a treatment sector that is expected to continue to grow.

The current trend in medical aesthetic treatments is not about major correction anymore. It is all about prevention, through doing continual, small treatments to maintain the skin’s condition and health. Therefore, starting younger and doing regular, more subtle treatments, as opposed to doing one big major overhaul later, has become popular. Regular mild laser treatments and skin peels are gaining popularity, combined with the administration of small regular amounts of injectables when required in order to soften lines whilst still maintaining one’s expression. In summary, the trend is towards regular prevention and maintenance as opposed to waiting to have to play catch up. PB

With more than 20 years of experience in her field, Karen Ellithorne is the owner of Spa and Salon Solutions. She is well connected within the aesthetic arena and has been responsible for organising Professional Beauty’s Medical Aesthetics Conventions for the past eight years. E-mail

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Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017

product news

60 Good as gold

Flakes of authentic 24-carat gold provide a royal richness in the Black Pearl Devine Body Butter. Gold is known to stimulate the skin, boosting its natural radiance and preventing premature ageing. This creamy body butter is formulated with Shea butter and coconut oil for intense hydration and a beautifully smooth feel.

083 327 1235

In the market Our round-up of new products and treatments.

Compact solution

Heliocare’s Compacts provide advanced broad-spectrum protection with skin-tone enhancement and correction that is easy to apply (and reapply). Fernblock Technology, based on a natural extract from Polypodium leucotomos, a tropical Central American fern, provides strong protective and repair mechanisms against UV radiation.

011 545 9300

The ‘X Factor’ RégimA Zone Epi-Genes Xpress epitomises multifunctional antiageing excellence. Its probiotic component uniquely activates ‘gene expression’ to accelerate healthy epidermal renewal, while African Seed helps reverse the natural loss of nerve fibres. Skin becomes visibly smoother, thicker and more resilient. The product is beneficial for age 35 and over.

Neck and neck

A potent firming neck cream with CitraFill and NeoGlucosamine, Exuviance Age Reverse Toning Neck Cream helps restore firmness, tone and definition to the fragile neck and décolletage area, while helping to correct signs of UV overexposure and ageing. It also contains Apple Stem Cell Extract to preserve healthy skin cells.

011 615 2869

011 545 9300

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017

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product news

61 Bar of note

The Hannon Cleansing Face Bar has active cleansing properties best suited for oily and acne prone skin types. It assists in combating the Vulgaris bacteria which causes acne, as well as fighting against inflammation. The bar removes all make-up and daily grime while leaving the skin’s protective lipid barrier intact.

011 608 4065

It’s a scream!

Twincare International’s Screaming Beauty range includes strip waxes called Jack the Ripper. Featuring four delicious fragrances and opalescent pearl colours, Jack the Ripper is ideal for large areas. The pine tree resin provides superior adhesion properties, while the other ingredients minimise sensitivity and protect and condition the skin.

011 305 1600

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BREAKFAST Monday the 27th of February 2017 At the Riverclub, in Observatory, Cape Town The topics we will cover are as follows: Staff retention Top marketing tips - Free subscription to Professional Beauty Magazine - Fast Access to all Professional Beauty Events - VIP Status to Professional Beauty Expos - 10% discount on all Professional Beauty Network Breakfasts - Plus much more

Visit for more details Or call Debra on 011 781 5970

Make better use of the RefectoCil colour variety with the brandnew cosmetic dish! • Simultaneous colour-mixing for eyelahes and eyebrows • Storage for application sticks and brushes • Makes mixing easier to ensure correct colour matching |

product news


Lashing out

The Lash Collection Cool Fresh Foaming Cleanser is formulated for use on lash and brow enhancements. It is also ideal for those with sensitive eyes, as it may help to prevent itchiness and irritation caused by dust and pollen. The cleanser gently and effectively removes make-up, dry skin and sweat.

021 555 1517/8

Envious orbs

EyEnvy is a breakthrough formula that combines vitamins and strengthening peptides to help improve the length, volume and thickness of eyelashes and eyebrows. On application, Eyenvy absorbs into the skin and feeds those hair follicles that are in the anagen growth phase. After four to six weeks of use, new hair growth is longer and thicker.

073 281 8050

Reactivating youth

The Matis Oleascience Oil-Serum for Face youth reactivator comprises a deeply generous formulation that simultaneously works on wrinkles and skin elasticity. Ingredients include Inca Inchi Seed Oil; pomegranate seed oil; jojoba seed oil and rice bran oil. Its lightweight texture is rapidly absorbed by the skin.

011 305 1600

Phytoactive power

Dermalogica’s Phyto Replenish Oil replenishes protective lipids that are depleted by ageing and environmental stress. It comprises phytoactives from Camellia and Tamanu oils, an essential lipid blend that includes Orchid Flower and Chia Seed Oil, as well as Sunflower, Rice Bran, and Rosemary Extracts.

011 268 0018

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017

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Special offer on multiple bookings Tel: 011 781 5970 • Fax: 011 781 6079 • Email:



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Training offered in Classic, Advanced Classic, 2D-6D Volume, Eyelash Tinting, Threading, Lash Art, FlashLash with Free Refresher Courses.

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We are the therapists preferred training supplier because • First company to introduce lash extensions to S.A. 10 years ago • Internationally Accredited Courses • Training offered in most major Centers and Internationally • All Franchise Trainers have international certification in Classic and/or Volume Lashes • Our head trainer is the first and only South African to receive international recognition as a LASH MASTER and she has won a LashInc 2015 international lash artist of the year award

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64 South African Association of Health and Skincare Professionals

Cidesco Section South Africa

Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta

SAQA completes policy development mandate The South African Qualifications Authority (SAQA) has successfully completed its policy development mandate. “We are now focusing on policy implementation,” says SAQA CEO Joe Samuels.


n 2008, the National Qualifications Framework (NQF) Act No. 67 was signed into law replacing the SAQA Act No. 58 of 1995. This ended the long period of review of the NQF and also affirmed the need for, and importance of, the NQF. SAQA then developed policies after consultation with the Quality Councils to ensure the implementation of the NQF Act. SAQA’s focus is now on policy implementation and ensuring a common understanding of policies governing education and training in South Africa and that these policies are aligned. “We will also advocate for the awareness, understanding and valuing of the NQF,” comments Samuels.

NQF Act The NQF Act gives SAQA a significant role in ensuring that the post-school education and training system is interconnected to enable lifelong learners to have access to, and mobility and progression within, education training and career paths. The White Paper for Post-School Education and Training also calls for the simplification of the NQF and better articulation of qualifications. This informs SAQA’s policy implementation phase. SAQA board chairperson, Dr Vuyelwa Toni Penxa, accompanied by past and present board memebrs, as well as SAQA’s Founding CEO, Dr Samuel Isaacs, officially unveiled SAQA House to the organisation’s stakeholders on 15 November 2016. This marked the move from policy

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2017

development to policy implementation and also highlighted SAQA’s 20th birthday.

About SAQA and the NQF SAQA has spent the first 20 years of its existence building a world class NQF that serves lifelong learners. The South African NQF is a framework of registered and quality assured national qualifications, part-qualifications, professional designations and learner achievements. It also connects the different parts of the national system for education, training, development and work. The NQF promotes genuine qualifications through its regulatory framework, national records, a public education and training service, and a counter-fraud strategy. It is integral to education and training, as well as workplace and development landscapes.

• SAQA is internationally recognised as a contributor to the development of qualifications systems and is often called upon to share the South African experience and offer expert advice; and • SAQA runs the NQF Advisory Service, which provides information about the NQF to the public. It receives enquiries by phone (0860 111 673), e-mail ( and through the walk-in service at SAQA House, 1067 Arcadia Street, Hatfield, Pretoria. SAQA is committed to ensuring that the South African NQF framework is held in high regard globally and one that makes the objectives of the NQF, as set out in the NQF Act 67 of 2008, a reality for all South Africans. PB

SAQA highlights • SAQA verifies the authenticity of national qualifications; • SAQA is tasked with evaluating foreign qualifications and to compare them with South African qualifications; • SAQA houses the National Learners’ Records Database (NLRD) – the information management system of the NQF. It is the biggest database of learner records and qualifications register in the country; • SAQA recognises Professional Bodies and registers Professional Designations;

Joining SAAHSP as a Professional Member or Corporate Member is as easy as 1-2-3. Contact us today to get your Membership Application Forms or download them from the website:

Cidesco Section South Africa

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Made in the U.S.A.

A STUDEX® Ear Piercing Service in your business will:increase foot traffic add new customers increase sales of existing store services and merchandising

A perfect add-on to your Salon business! The state-of-the-art in ear piercing Safe • fast • sterile • painless • easy to use Hypoallergenic Guaranteed Sterile Surgical Stainless Steel & 24k Gold Plated

Pro Beauty Jan-Feb 2017  

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