Pro beauty august 2014

August 2014

www.probeauty.co.za

Nails

deluxe Spring/ Summer trends

Sunny

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the Expo

Make the connection Social media marketing

Wrinkles Wage war on

Anti-agEing treatme nts

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Skin Friendly

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32

68

In this issue...

Regulars

Spa Focus

Features

5 Industry news

23 Just add water

32 The age-old problem of ageing skin

Local and international news

64 Hair news

What’s hot and happening in the hair industry

84 Product news

All the latest launches

86 SAAHSP

13 The ultimate way to reach consumers

Evolving according to market needs

14 Does your social media get consumers to buy?

26 Traditional Indian wellness in the Cape

Internet marketing tips

First Jiva Grande Spa in Africa

31 The times they are a-changin’

The latest news from SAAHSP

Business

Hydrotherapies in focus

International Spa Convention 2014 embraces change

Medical Aesthetics 75 MA Convention focuses on rejuvenation

Speaker and topic line-up

76 Brighten your smile

Teeth-whitening latest

Nails

18 Show up

68 Spring into Summer

The importance of visiting beauty trade shows

Designer nails trends and colours

Topical anti-ageing treatments and products

40 Tackling ageing, face on

Anti-ageing facials

43 Professional Beauty Show Preview

Brands galore

52 Professional Beauty Awards 2014

Congratulations to the finalists!

53 Best foot forward

Pedicure treatments

54 Treatment Reviews

Tackling nail fungi

60 Going for bronze

Sunless tanning treatments

66 Professional Hair Show Preview

What to expect

81 Ask the expert

Why acne has become resistant to treatment

20 Family ties

Case study of a family-owned salon

76 online at www.probeauty.co.za

23 14 Professional Beauty August 2014

Welcome

A

s we go to press, preparations are in full swing for the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo and the events that run alongside it, namely Professional Hair, the Professional Beauty Awards, the Medical Aesthetics Convention and the International Spa Convention. As you will see, much of this issue is devoted to previewing these exciting, not-to-be-missed events all designed to expose you, the industry professional, to the latest trends and developments in the beauty, spa, medical aesthetics and hair sectors.

In this era of ever spawning social media, brands, spas, salons and stockists should be utilising these new media platforms to the fore to market and sell their products and/or services. Miss the social media boat and you will seriously miss out on huge opportunities in terms of reaching your target market. In this issue we have two business articles focusing on the social media phenomenon, each from a different perspective.

From the moment we hit our mid-twenties ageing skin becomes a significant concern, which explains why anti-ageing products and treatments form such a big part of the beauty landscape. It is also an area in which huge amounts of money, time, research and development are invested, with a focus on active ingredients that stimulate the skin to regenerate itself.

There is always a steady stream of new and innovative anti-ageing products as our special feature in this issue reveals.

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

Subscribe 9 issues for R450 (RSA) To receive your copy of Professional Beauty call 011 781 5970

On the cover Cover source: www.shutterstock.com

Publisher Mark Moloney

011 781 5970

Managing Director Yolanda Knott

083 654 9098 yolanda@probeauty.co.za

mark@probeauty.co.za

Commercial Director Philip Woods 011 781 5970

phil@probeauty.co.za

Editor Joanna Sterkowicz

011 781 5970

joanna@probeauty.co.za

Art Director Ursula Wong

011 781 5970

ursula@probeauty.co.za

Accounts Manager Unathi Diko

011 781 5970

unathi@probeauty.co.za

Sales Manager Belinda Wewege

073 033 8599 belinda@probeauty.co.za

Senior Sales Executive Charlene Dickson 082 758 1703

charlene@probeauty.co.za

International Sales Executive Melinda Alevras 072 160 6353 melinda@probeauty.co.za Sales Admin Assistant Obey Dube 011 781 5970

obey@probeauty.co.za

Sales Executive - Classifieds Knowledge Tenza 072 190 4820 knowledge@probeauty.co.za

Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Ice Site Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970 | Fax: 011 781 6079

Subscriptions Phillip Nkomo

The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/ or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher.

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palisa@tetradeevents.com

Social Media Administrator Penelope Mtshali 011 781 5970

social@tetradeevents.com

Printers House of Print

Professional Beauty August 2014

011 747 8750

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Source Marine for a skin infused with water and light

For more information contact: Thalgo 011 880 3440 or 011 8803851 sales@marinespadistributors.co.za • www.thalgo.co.za • Specialists in marine well-being • Skincare, Body & Spa, Mens & Sun care • Spa consultancy • Thalassonutrition • Full marketing, spa educational & retail support • Full brand commitment to sustainable development • High profit margins

The success of this amazing body wrap is due to a combination of a Swiss formulation anti-cellulite body contouring firming gel and Neoprene bandages. The compression of the bandages and the active ingredients, strengthening, diuretic and stabilising properties of the gel targets the toxins in the adipose fatty tissue, breaks down the fatty tissue by means of absorption by the lymph duct, so that the unwanted fatty tissue finally passes out through the body. The combination of liposomes, strengthening and diuretic properties stabilise and maintain the contour of the body, helping to avoid a spongy appearance, strengthens the tissues and inner organs.

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This bra offers everyday chic styling and an exceptional fit that hugs the breasts and accentuates the cleavage without adding any extra volume. Innovative 3 Dimensional breathable knit fabric creates a moulded bra that feels like a second skin and embodies a woman’s natural curves for absolute comfort. No seams or stitching in the nipple area. Available in chocolate, white, black and nude (fits up to a F cup).

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industry news

5

News All the news and views from the world of beauty, spa and nails.

Natalie Smith, Emilie O’Neill and Noella Gabriel

Bodyography partners with Camelot

P

rana Products’ Bodyography Professional Cosmetics brand has endorsed Camelot International Group as its partner in education. In addition, Bodyography products will now be available for retail at Camelot Spas, which will offer clients the option of Bodyography make-overs or make-up coaching sessions.

Debbie Wolfendale, MD of Prana Products, notes that all the Bodyography products are used in Camelot’s part-time master classes and full-time make-up artistry courses.

“We originally launched Bodyography into the market as ‘The

Make-up Coaches’, to help upskill women for their everyday lives. As Camelot is first and foremost a training academy for professional therapists, it was a natural fit,” says Wolfendale.

Camelot’s Debbie Merdjan adds: “For some time now I’ve known that in order for our businesses to be profitable we need new revenue streams, and make-up is the one area that we’ve totally ignored in the professional health and skincare market.

“We teach students make-up techniques and our therapists all cover make-up training in their CIDESCO

SA product wins Cosmopolitan award RégimA’s Scar Repair + Anti-Stretch Complex has won the prestigious Cosmopolitan Magazine Prix De Beauté Award 2014 in Poland for best scar treatment product.

Says RégimA’s Jacqui Faucitt: “It was fantastic to win such a prestigious award as it is an indication of what can be done with a great product when one spends time on workshops and public relations activities, getting the product out there and spreading knowledge.”

She explains that RégimA exhibited at the World Anti-Ageing Congress in Monaco back in 2011,

online at www.probeauty.co.za

where the products caught the interest of a medical company in Poland.

“Scar Repair was introduced to Poland later that year. Our distributor Dominika introduced Scar Repair to Cosmopolitan magazine. The product was then tested during an eight-month period,” states Faucitt.

and ITEC examinations. However, very few spas and salons offer make-up services, so clients are sent out barefaced after treatments. I began to look for a professional makeup brand to offer to our students, spas and clients and found Bodyography.”

She reveals that Bodyography make-up studios have been set up in all the Camelot branches, offering master classes such as bridal and fashion make-up, as well as elementary makeup artistry.

A 30-minute makeover, a special occasion makeover and a make-up coaching session have been added to the Camelot Spas’ treatment menu.

News in pictures

Presentations from the Employer’s Organisation for Hairdressing, Cosmetology & Beauty (EOHCB) and the Bargaining Council (BC) were the focus of the Professional Beauty Network Breakfast held on 14 July in Johannesburg. Pictured are the EOHCB’s Choert Maartens and Mariska du Plessis, with Pria Uys (centre).

Professional Beauty August 2014

CSpa Hair Wellness in association with Gary Rom Hairdressing

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• In-spa high performance Hair Wellness • Maximize spa/salon space with an alternate revenue stream • Two unique CSpa Hair Wellness rituals: sensorial dry or wet hair treatments • Full marketing and training support • Manufactured in South Africa Distributed by: Marine Spa Distributors Tel: (011) 880 3850/1 Fax: 086 532 1265 Email: sales@marinespadistributors.co.za 7 - 11th Avenue, Houghton Estate.

Johannesburg, 2198

industry news

7

Sparkle Cosmetics launches Nail Academy Debbie Kayle

News in brief ■ Arabella spa rebrands: The Arabella spa at the Westin Cape Town has undergone a rebranding to tie the facility to Westin’s international spa brand. Now known as Heavenly spa by Westin, it will be the newest stockist of the Skin Doctors range of products.

■ Experience tray launched: Milk Solutions has developed a novel experience tray for its salons, spas and nail bars. Designed to aid the therapist in achieving increased retail sales, the tray allows the customer to sample the entire range with ease.

D

ozens of industry professionals attended the official launch of the Sparkle Nail Academy on 26 June, held at Sparkle Cosmetics’ Johannesburg headquarters in Melrose.

Said Sparkle’s Ian Chasen: “What you see today is the finished product of my daughter Debbie Kayle’s dream.”

Kayle added: “Sparkle is essentially a family-owned business and we’ve been in existence for over 18 years.

As one of South Africa’s leading distributors of the world’s top brands, including Gelish, Prohesion Acrylic and Morgan Taylor, we thought how beneficial a nail academy would be in South Africa. But a nail academy with a difference – one unlike some colleges in South Africa that work with less high end brands which salons wouldn’t necessarily use.

“Our aim is to be the number

■ Brand Root website revamped:

one nail academy with international brands. We offer development and education to uplift the standards of nails in South Africa.”

Kayle explained that the Sparkle Nail Academy course material has been developed in conjunction with acclaimed educators from Hand & Nail Harmony USA. Courses are offered in Johannesburg and Cape Town and include Gelish nail design, acrylic nail technology and a manicure & pedicure course which incorporates material from The Money School.

New moves

Following the expansion and development at Brand Root Distribution over the past 12 months the company has customised its website (www.brandroot.co.za) to accommodate the marketing of new brands and products.

■ World Spa & Wellness Awards 2015: Entries are now open for these prestigious awards. The deadline for entries is 31 August this year, with winners announced in London on 22 February 2015. See www.professionalspaandwellness. com for more details.

■ Digital directory launches: www.beautylist.co.za is designed to help the user locate the finest treatments and best deals in all locations across South Africa.

Beautylist is the brainchild of Sally Kuschke, a director of The Recruitment Specialists (TRS).

Johannes Cloete has joined Radiant Healthcare as a technician.

During his career Cloete has worked at Netcare Park Lane Hospital, the Netcare Milpark Hospital and Wits Donald Gordon Medical Centre. He has also held positions at Med Aesthetic Laser Services and Hitech Lasers.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty August 2014

business tips

8

Hot topics at PMU International Conference

A

blood-borne pathogens class has been included in the Permanent Make-up (PMU) International Conference, which takes place from 29 to 31 August at Gallagher Convention Centre in Midrand.

Deon Venter, MD of WasteXpress and a trained paramedic, will present the class, which is recommended for all tattoo artists and permanent cosmetic technicians with a potential occupational exposure to bloodborne pathogens.

Convened by PCASA (Permanent Cosmetic Association of South Africa), the conference features two international speakers, both from US industry organisation the SPCP (Society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals). Kate Ciampi

will focus on successful medically related procedures performed by industry leaders, and will discuss controversial techniques and contraindications.

Elizabeth Finch-Howell will give an in-depth presentation on pigments.

There will be a skinneedling panel comparing tattoo equipment with new generation machines and manual roller methods.

Other conference topics include: Areola and nipple reconstruction; Motivation in our environment; Working our magic in the medical aesthetic environment; Eyeliner: what is making or breaking your procedures; and How to grow profit.

First BB cream for nails In what is believed to be an industry first, US brand Orly will launch a BB (blemish balm) cream for nails in August.

Orly has taken the BB cream concept from the skincare world and adapted it for the nails sector.

In skincare terms, BB creams bridge the gap between moisturiser and foundation in one product.

Described as a multipurpose nail treatment formula, Orly BB Crème comes in the form of a paint-on liquid. It was designed to moisturise, whiten, smooth texture and protect nails from UV. Key ingredients include hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, glass microspheres, ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) and titanium dioxide.

With a pearlescent finish that covers imperfections, the product can be used alone or as a base coat or top coat.

Speakers include Dr Nadine Haberveldt, Philippa Crichton, Johan Abrie, Vaughn Owgan, Bronwyn Miscia and Suze Steyl.

For more information about the conference contact info@pcasa.org.za

News in pictures

Lilian Terry International, I-Slices Manufacturing (Pty) Ltd and Caribbean Tan participated on the Proudly South African/CECOSA stand at Cosmoprof Las Vegas (13 - 15 July) at the Las Vegas Mandalay Bay Convention Centre.

Professional Beauty August 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Enzyme Therapy DMK enzyme treatments work with the skin where cosmetic facial treatments only act on the surface.

I

f one thinks of the skin like a factory

taining good skin functioning is the key to

and it is not functioning properly the

long-term, healthier, younger looking skin.

product it produces will be weak and

DMK Enzyme treatments work with

of poor quality. The product being in this

the skin, not merely act on it. It opens up

case the skin that is visible to the eye -

the vascular system, increases oxygena-

the skin is a mirror of what is happening

tion - encouraging the formation of new

internally.

elastin and collagen. These treatments

You can have all the most wonderful

also tighten, tone and firm the skin.

active ingredients but without an effective

After the enzymatic masque is re-

delivery system they will just remain on

moved, a Transdermal Nutrition Infusion is

the skin surface, not really supplying new

performed using DMK’s unique transder-

baby cells with any real benefit.

mal delivery system - Vitamin C serum,

Enzymes work on skin functioning, in-

Betagel, Biogen C crème (the wrinkle re-

crease blood flow and bring fresh supply

laxer) and fine line crème around the eye.

of nutrients and oxygen that is essential

Together with our polarized botani-

for tissue health and repair. The lymphat-

cal waters enables the effective delivery

ic system is enhanced acting like an in-

of a rich blend of herbal lipids, proteins,

ternal sprinkler flushing fresh fluid into the

amino acids, vitamins, anti-oxidants and

cells and cellular spaces while cleaning

nutrients at cellular level, enabling cells

out debris and gases. Enzyme therapy

to stay alive longer and perform at their

fortifies the structural integrity and rebal-

healthiest, youngest level.

DURING TREATMENT

ances the skin encouraging proper skin functioning and a healthy environment for

Treats more than just the surface of

new cells to live and thrive in.

the skin, including:

Peeling alone does not produce a

AFTER

•

acne

•

scarring

What does?

•

hyperpigmentation

Removing all the old damaged skin,

•

age management

strengthening and repairing the new skin

•

healthy skin

Please contact us to become a DMK stockist for a customized opening order and FREE, internationally recognized training.

www.dmkskincare.co.za / +27 (0) 11 262 6120

DMK, REBUILDING SKIN, REBUILDING LIVES

stronger, healthier, more youthful skin.

coming through, protecting it and main-

industry news

10

Global beauty event comes to SA T

he CIDESCO 63rd World Congress & Exhibition of Aesthetics, Spa, Health and Beauty will take place at Johannesburg’s Sandton Convention Centre from 23 - 25 May 2015, under the theme, ‘Skin is Alive’.

Says CIDESCO honorary president Helene Bramwell, who is also a founding member of SAAHSP (South African Association of Health & Skin Care Professionals) and a recipient of the Medaille D’Or: “We want to emphasise the important role beauty therapists play in working beyond the epidermis and will therefore look at the science behind current skincare practices. Topics in the programme include skin peeling, hormonal issues, light therapies, pH imbalances and the latest anti-ageing technologies.

“We have also included business, spa and student forums, enabling us to

EBS takes on Crisnail Leading Spanish nail brand Crisnail will now be available in South Africa through Exclusive Beauty Solutions (EBS).

Says EBS managing member Dalize Havenga: “We have been considering taking on an additional good quality professional nail brand at a more affordable price and conducted extensive research into Crisnail.

“This professional nail brand from Madrid is regarded as the ‘Zara’ of the nail industry. It offers avant-garde fashion, innovation with years of research, the latest technology and the latest trends.”

address every facet of the beauty world in order to challenge, inspire and uplift the beauty professional.”

She notes that CIDESCO is the world’s largest international beauty therapy association representing 33 member countries and 250 CIDESCOaccredited schools.

A number of important meetings will take place around the congress, including the CIDESCO examiners workshop on 20 May. The CIDESCO-

accredited schools meeting on 21 May is open to all CIDESCO schools, international examiners and CIDESCO national sections.

On 22 May national section representatives from 31 countries will meet to discuss the direction of the organisation.

PMSSA set to launch The Permanent Makeup Society of Southern Africa (PMSSA) will formally launch at the end of August during the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo.

Founder Sule Loggenberg elaborates: “Permanent make-up (PMU) is an extremely fast-growing industry, and the competition is fierce. I started PMSSA as we do not agree with other societies and institutions’ techniques or their pigments.

“For example, we only allow the use of our organic and natural mineral-based pigments that will stay true to their colour. We use specific anaesthetics for specific areas as well as advanced application techniques.”

She stresses that each PMU society is different in its own unique way.

Professional Beauty August 2014

”I know what works for us, as the proof is in the pudding,” says Loggenberg.

PMSSA is part of Permanent Makeup Society International (PMSI).

For more information email: suleloggenberg@gmail.com

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Introducing eTwo! Visibly Better

combines the unique Sublime and Sublative eTwo combines and eTwo combines the the unique unique Sublime Sublime eTwo and Sublative Sublative applications for comprehensive facial rejuvenation: applications for for comprehensive comprehensive facial applications facial rejuvenation: rejuvenation: •safe Sublime™ uses the elōs combination of safe and effective Sublime™ uses combination ofof safe and effective usesthe theelōs elōs combination and effective •• Sublime™ levels of infrared light and bi-polar radio frequency levels of infrared light light and bi-polar bi-polar radio frequency levels frequency radio energies to remodel the deep dermal layer of the skin energies to to remodel ofofthe energies deep dermal dermallayer layer theskin skin remodel the the deep by stimulating by stimulating stimulating new new collagen growth growth for for immediate and by and new collagen growth for immediate and immediate longcontour. term improvement of wrinkles and facial contour. long term term improvement improvement of of wrinkles and and facial long facial contour.

• Sublative™ Sublative™ fractionated frequency •• Sublative™ fractionated bi-polar bi-polarradio radio frequencyfractionated bi-polar radio frequency technology technology places places the into technology the heat heat energy energy effectively effectively intoplaces the heat energy effectively into upper dermis where it can produce a significant the upper upper dermis dermis where the where itit can can produce produceathe asignificant significant increase in both collagen and elastin with minimal increase in minimal increase in both both collagen collagen and and elastin elastin with with minimal disruption leading to a smoother, rejuvenated epidermaldisruption disruptionleading leadingto to aa smoother, rejuvenated epidermal smoother,epidermal rejuvenated appearance of the skin. appearance of appearance of the the skin. skin.

Photos: Ruthie Amir, M.D.Sasha Photos: Photos: SashaJazayeri, Jazayeri,M.D. M.D. Photos: Sasha Jazayeri, M.D.

Photos: Ruthie Photos: Ruthie Amir, Amir,M.D. M.D. Photos: Ruthie Amir, M.D.

Before Before Before

Sublime Sublime

Post 2 2 treatments Post treatments Post treatments

Before

Before Before Before

Sublime Sublative Sublative

Post 2 treatments weeks post post333treatments treatments 666 weeks post treatments

P

Before

Sublative

For more information: |infois@syneron.com | www.syneron.com For more more information: www.syneron.com For information: infois@syneron.com infois@syneron.com || www.syneron.com |www.candelalaser.com www.candelalaser.com

© 2011.

All rights reserved. eTwo, Sublative are trademarks of trademarks.

Synerontrademarks.

Medical, Ltd.PB75611EN Syneron and the Syneron logo, Candela and the C © 2011.

2011. All and Sublative areare trademarks of Syneron Medical, Ltd. Ltd. Syneron and the logo, Candela and and the Candela logo arelogo registered PB75611EN © All rights rights reserved. reserved.eTwo, eTwo,Sublime Sublime and Sublative trademarks of Syneron Syneron Medical, Syneron andSyneron the Syneron logo,Sublime Candela and the Candela Candela are registered registered © 2011. All rights reserved. eTwo, Sublime and Sublative are trademarks of Medical, Ltd. Syneron and the Syneron logo, Candela and the logo are trademarks. PB75611EN

business tips

13

The ultimate way to reach

consumers

Today’s consumer seems to be evolving quicker than businesses are and if brands don’t listen to what they want and need, they will get left behind, writes Lauren Gibson.

I

n 10 years from now, the new generation of the social media age will be influencing buying in ways we haven’t even thought of yet. And this will be tailored for each individual to be convenient and accessible.

Interaction will be via touch, voice and sight. The consumer will look for additional information in everything they see, hear or want.

Social media comes alive with conversation. Without this conversation, people would not be able to engage, connect and share experiences on social media. Our industry is no different from any other so why can’t we engage with our consumers via an online presence?

This can be in the form of questions, conversations or running online promotions or competitions where consumers need to like, comment or share information you have posted online in order to win something.

The easiest way to stimulate a conversation would be pose a question to your followers while educating them at the same time. For example: “The eye area is the most delicate part area of our face, with the thickness of the skin being a mere 0.5mm. Do you

online at www.probeauty.co.za

know how much eye cream should be applied to this area? Do you know how to apply your eye cream to ensure you don’t stretch and damage the skin?”

Consumers love education so you need to ensure you are not ‘bragging’ about your business online but offering a service of educating your followers and sharing useful tips and advice on a regular basis, but not more than once a day.

Platforms Ideally the best media platforms for a brand to be on would be Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. But I would advise starting with the basics, meaning Facebook, as it is currently the most popular and interactive site, with over one billion active users.

Facebook costs your business nothing except a bit of time and planning.

And if you can get a great group of followers, they can actually increase your online presence for you by talking about you and your business on their social media platforms.

Never use your personal Facebook account to promote your business, as this is for personal interactions. You still need to appear professional and

the industry expert, so, ideally, you should create a fan page which is ideal for business platforms.

With social media it is very much a case of ‘what you see is what you get’. Remember that not all consumers know the personalities and people behind the business, so always ensure your online presence displays the utmost professionalism and showcases yourself in the best possible light.

Social media is a powerful business tool so why not share your business vision or beliefs on social media platforms? These are the core values that keep your business focused and the crux of who you are as a brand or as a business. Always stand for what you believe in and you will attract a consumer who has the same beliefs. PB

Lauren Gibson is a brand consultant for Dermalogica where she works both as an educator and sales consultant.

Professional Beauty August 2014

business of beauty blog

14

Does your social media get consumers to buy?

Social media has become an extraordinary marketing tool. It has changed the face of advertising and communication completely, and is the most used phrase in any marketing meeting today, writes Debbie Merdjan.

T

witter. Facebook. Linked-In. Tumblr.

Pinterst.

YouTube.

Blogging.

Everyone is familiar with these internet platforms. You need to learn to use them in the most effective

ways possible.

We use social media to increase exposure and to increase traffic to our business. But it is a lot more than just promotion. It is about engaging with the customer and developing relationships. The aim is for the customer, or potential customer, to read the tag, link or story, identify with it, and then think: • I would love to have this.

• I would love to contribute to this conversation.

• I would like to send this on to others.

Immediacy Social media is immediate, as is the world today. You want your customer to recognise your brand, to be attracted to it and captivated by it.

A social media strategy needs to be planned carefully. Ask yourself these questions: • What is the age group of my customers?

• What are the demographics?

• Do they have immediate access to the internet?

• Do they have time?

• Do they have a sense of humour?

• Are they visual? (Will they respond to pics, videos?)

• What is their main interest – beauty, fashion or politics?

Target accordingly. And engage. Always engage.

Take the customer into account – he or she is your most important asset, always.

Social media is a lifestyle. In the same way that people buy bread and milk daily, people check their Facebook or Twitter daily. Or hourly.

Marketing tips Here are a few tips to help you along the way, as a social media marketer.

• Brand: All your social media accounts need to be similar – the same logo, same messages and same strategy. Use different wording to keep it interesting, but convey the same message.

Your social media marketing needs to match your traditional marketing too.

• Consistency: This is so important. Be consistent. Post daily, or eight times daily, if you choose, but create a schedule and stick to it. Your customer gets to trust and rely on you this way.

• Content: Ensure that your online content is aligned with the core personality of your brand. Don’t start posting about puppies if your core business is beauty!

• Engagement: If someone compliments you, likes you or retweets you – acknowledge it. Likewise, if they have a complaint, deal with it immediately.

We feel that social media is a two-way vehicle. It is not merely a platform for you to broadcast your message relentlessly. A social media account that ignores others cannot thrive.

Be interesting. Keep your customer enthralled. And always, always, be real! PB

Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the Camelot Group - encompassing health & skin care training. She has been in the industry since 1982 and started Camelot International Health & Skin Care Education in 1987, and opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997.

Professional Beauty August 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

The International Ingredient Seminar

What’s in the Jar?

Presented by Stephanie Konigsberg International Training Manager - Dr. Baumann Cosmetics

Become an Ingredient Expert

• Informed recommendation of products – Skincare and the results you achieve with your customers are only as good as your ingredient knowledge and product choices.

Ingredients and how they function - will give you the ability to analyze every product in the market and make unbiased, informed choices about what to prescribe in your salon.

• Position yourself as your clients “Skin Care and Anti Aging Guru” – Having this advanced knowledge puts you ahead of your competition and enhances your influence with your customers.

• Gaining your customers trust based on pure facts - is the most powerful sales tool you have. Enhance the knowledge and professionality of your staff, enhance the image of your salon.

• Attendees will receive a Certificate of Basic Ingredient Knowledge.

Visit us at the Professional Beauty Show at stall B8 REGISTER NOW Seminar Fee: R490 (First time attendees - FREE) Venue: Dr. Baumann Training Centre, 18 Southway Road, Georgian Place, Block E, Kelvin, Sandton When: 25 August 2014 Time: Skinology 9h00 – 17h30 www.dr-baumann.co.za or Email: donna@dr-baumann.co.za Call: 011 262 5003 or 011 262 5002 or 083 458 7669

HOSTED BY DR. BAUMANN COSMETICS

The FIRST 10 SALONS

that sign up with Dr Baumann receive an opening order of

R10,000

retail products FREE (Terms & Conditions apply)

Dr. Baumann South Africa

Celebrating

10 Years of Business Growth

The First “WHAT’S IN THE JAR” Seminar is FREE ONLY FOR SALON OWNERS AND DERMATOLOGISTS

business tips

18

Show up Taking time out of your busy salon to visit trade shows is an essential to stay ahead of the competition, writes Hellen Ward.

T

he Professional Beauty London Expo at Excel, which took place earlier this year, really is the highlight of my calendar – as it is with all the movers and shakers in the beauty industry.

Now in its 25th year, the show seems to get bigger and better every year. I go to a lot of shows and it really is the flagship beauty show in Europe.

So why bother visiting shows? Will you really see anything new or different? Well the answer is yes.

There aren’t many other places that you can go to and see hundreds of brands showcasing what’s new and innovative in their technologies.

Salon owners are becoming more and more savvy and travelling further afield to see brands showcasing their new innovations. I know many hair and beauty salon chains that send a representative to shows not only across Europe but all over the globe so that they can be leaders in trends rather than followers. And you simply can’t see what’s out there in any better way than by attending a good trade show; because only there will you get to see what’s happening in one hit.

is crucial and seeing a brand represented against a competitor helps you to make the right decision regarding your choice of supplier.

I also scour the halls to see what’s new – what innovations and trends are coming to the forefront.

Judging what’s going to be a flash in the pan and working out which services are ‘keepers’ is critical to any business. And there’s nowhere better to do this than at a great show. In fact, I would say that it’s critical for any sized business to attend events where they get to gauge what’s on offer for them to take back to their salons. Our clients increasingly expect us to be at the forefront of industry technologies and we have a duty to ensure we are.

Then there’s the networking opportunities at shows like Professional Beauty, it’s a great place to catch up with peers.

Finding time out of the business is never easy – but every trainee, therapist, nail tech, manager or owner should take the trouble to get out there and see what’s happening in their industry.

Because it is ours and it’s precious – and making sure we nurture the professional side of what we do is critical. There’s no better way than having a mooch around an exhibition with the calibre we’ve come to expect from Professional Beauty to motivate and inspire us.PB

Salon owners are becoming more and more savvy and travelling further afield to see brands showcasing their new innovations.

Brand fit I spend hours walking around shows looking at brands I know well and many that are new to me. I like to get a sense of their ethos by looking at their stands to get a real idea of what they are all about, what they are offering and where they are going. Looking at their branding, their product development and their treatment offering gives me a sense of their direction and an ability to benchmark them against the competition. You can instantly gauge which brands have a synergy with your business and the experience that you and your team are trying to create. Brand fit

Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London’s Sloane Square.

Professional Beauty August 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

business tips

20

Family ties When family-owned salon Sherbet Angel recently moved into new premises in Johannesburg’s Parkhurst, it reinforced its policy of offering clients the personal touch in ‘a home away from home’ environment, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

I

t’s quite easy to spot Sherbet Angel Studio Salon & Boutique, not only because of its location on the corner of Parkhurst’s 4th Avenue and 9th Street, but because of the pink picket fence and flower bed framing the entrance.

The quaint and decidedly un-salon-like décor of the interior, which is in stark contrast to the uniformity of a franchise operation, clearly points to the fact that this is an independent operation.

While the salon is literally only a block away from the old Sherbet Angel, this new incarnation is three times the size, at 190 square metres, and offers spa facilities in the form of a Jacuzzi bath and steam shower. There are four treatment rooms (including two couples’ rooms), a mani-pedi lounge that accommodates 11 clients, and a relaxation garden.

“We’d been planning the move to new premises for nearly a year,” says Lisa Rautenbach, who owns the salon along with mom Joanne Gardner. “Our dream was for Sherbet Angel to look like a home so as to fit in with the neighbourhood’s look. We also wanted to build one-to-one relationships with clients and to have more space in which to operate.”

Village feel When Rautenbach and Gardner opened the original Sherbet Angel in 2010 they decided on Parkhurst because of its village atmosphere.

“We believe that location is everything,” continues

Joanne Gardner and Lisa Rautenbach

Rautenbach. “We always knew that we didn’t want to have the salon in a shopping mall and when we moved to Parkhurst as a family, I realised that this would be the perfect place for a salon.

“There are lots of young families in Parkhurst, so the idea was for Sherbet Angel to be a safe haven for moms.

We wanted to do what other salons don’t do and that is to focus on attention to detail.”

Hands-on Rautenbach is herself a beauty therapist, having worked on cruise liners and as a trainer for Thalgo.

“I’m very much hands-on in the salon and we think that’s extremely important for the business. The salon manager, Nicole Blazevic, is also hands-on. We currently have another three full-time therapists as well as a frontof-house staffer,” explains Rautenbach.

Sherbet Angel’s brands include Thalgo, Six Sensational Skin Care, Bio Therapeutic, Mama Mio, Mio, Zoya, Toy and Gelish. Jewellery, clothing and nappie bags are also available for retail.

Rautenbach is adamant that she will never go the franchise route.

“We’ve had several franchise offers but turned them all down. If anything, we would open a second independent salon as we love the personal touch and don’t want to be just another number,” she concludes. PB

online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty August 2014

Professional Beauty July 2014 online at www.probeauty.co.za

johannesburg CELEBRATING

10 yEARs

Visit us at: Stand L18

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spa focus

23

Just add water Although one of the main health benefits of the external use of water is keeping our bodies clean, bathing is much more than this, and its curative properties have been known for centuries, writes Marisa Dimitriadis.

F

or many years the spa client associated bathing pools with extravagant and extremely expensive spa retreats, whereas in recent years the public has almost come to expect some sort of bathing facility in most spas. If you think of spending a day at a spa, would you not automatically assume that a pool of some sort would be available?

And since the word ‘spa’ means ‘health through water’ a bathing pool or some sort of water treatment is a MUST as part of a spa facility.

Spa is the name of a small village in Belgium whose hot mineral springs were found by the ancient Romans to relieve soldiers’ aches and pains sustained from battles.

Our daily bath and shower rituals are, in fact, methods of alternative medicine. The break of the surface tension of the water, by waves or evaporation, produces the release of negative hydrogen ions that are extremely beneficial for our body, which is electro-positively charged.

The negative ions make us feel relaxed, destroy harmful bacteria and increase our autoimmune system.

My plan with this article is to try and give spa owners an overview of spa pool or hydrotherapy treatments in terms of planning, selection process and maintenance.

Planning First decide what type of pool or hydrotherapy treatment you want and why.

To list some examples: 1. Roman bath, also known as warm bath or tepidarium.

Water is heated to a temperature of 36°C.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

2. Kneipp therapy pool. The temperature of the skin is usually 33.5°C. Different temperatures generate different therapeutic benefits: cold = 13-15°C and hot = 40-46°C. These pools are generally small in size and are used as plunge pools.

3. Swim spa. This is a small pool around 3m to 4m in length that produces a strong artificial current against which you can swim without moving forward. It is sometimes referred to as treadmill swimming.

4. Hydro/relaxation pool. Hydrotherapy pools are bodies of water that are run at a higher temperature than normal pools and also have increased water turbulence, such as massage jets, and other water features. The temperature is set at around body temperature or just above so that you have a warm feeling. The water gives you buoyancy that takes the tension off most parts of the body. Both the movement and heat of the water in a hydrotherapy pool are enough to provide therapeutic relief for muscle aches and stress in many cases.

5. Hot tubs. A classic hot tub is made of redwood or cedar wood, as these woods are naturally resistant to decay and insects and also provide a tactile experience, unlike acrylic material. A hot tub is like a big round barrel offering a deeper soak at a depth of about 1.2m. They may or may not include water jets.

6. Portable spa, or what we commonly refer to as a Jacuzzi.

7. Vichy shower. An overhead shower with multiple shower heads that extend over a person’s body length to spray hot water on the body at different pressures, creating a type of water massage. R

Professional Beauty August 2014

spa focus

24 Strategy Decide where you will position the pool or hydrotherapy room in relation to the rest of the spa space. Remember to keep wet areas closed in and don’t put the pool too far away from the change room facilities.

A pool is going to be the focus of the spa and will attract a crowd, so don’t position it right near a relaxation or sleep area.

Marketing Hydrotherapy or the use of water in the spa as part of treatments is not gaining much ground in South Africa and the wellness benefits of water need to be emphasised and marketed to spa-goers.

Include some sort of hydrotherapy in every single spa visit for your guest, even if it is free use of the spa pools when booking any treatment. Be sure to let the guest know when making their reservation to bring along swimwear to use the facilities before or after their treatment for maximum benefit.

If you decide to invest in a Vichy shower the only way it will generate income for your business is if it is included with every single body exfoliation treatment and body wrap. Even include it as part of a massage and use it to upsell a body exfoliation with all massages booked.

Once the message about the amazing benefits that water has on the human body is passed on then every consumer will want to try it out.

Our daily bath and shower rituals are, in fact, methods of alternative medicine.

Safety and troubleshooting The last item I would like to remind you about is to ensure that all safety measures and emergency procedures are in place. Reduce hazardous conditions and ensure pool rules are clearly visible for all to see.

In terms of maintenance and troubleshooting I would suggest you hire a maintenance team and have an indepth troubleshooting session prior to use of the pool.

One very important last point that will either make the use of water in your spa a success or total disaster is how warm the area or room is in which the water is situated.

The room must be very warm so that the guest need not even wear a robe when getting out of the water, in that way making the water treatment a pleasant experience.

There is nothing worse than getting out of water and freezing from the cold room temperature.

To quote Thomas Fuller: we will never know the worth of water till the well is dry. PB

Marisa Dimitriadis is founder and owner of The Spa Consultants. E-mail her on marisa@thespaconsultants.co.za for more information.

Professional Beauty August 2014

spa focus

26

Traditional Indian

wellness in the Cape

Africa’s first-ever Jiva Grande Spa is located at the Taj Hotel in Cape Town and offers a spectrum of authentic wellness treatments drawn from ancient Indian healing wisdom and Ayurveda, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

J

iva is the indigenous spa brand of the Taj Group, one of Asia’s largest hotel groups. Its ethos is based on the belief that a spa unfolds a way of life within which the life force is the bedrock of wellness.

There are currently 33 Jiva Spas around the world.

In line with increased customer demand, the Jiva Grande Spa in Cape Town recently appointed two additional therapists.

According to spa manager Lanuinla Walling, the spa’s unique position in the local market continues to delight guests.

“The storied luxury and unrivalled pampering of the Taj Hotel and its Jiva Grande Spa are at once refreshingly different yet somewhat expected,” says Walling. “Expected because Taj Hotels Resorts and Palaces have been doing what they do – offering worldclass service, luxury and consistency – since 1903. Different because the

Indian spa tradition in which Jiva specialises elevates your visit from the usual run-of-the-mill spa experience to a sensual journey of relaxation and balanced rejuvenation, inspired by age-old techniques and applications.”

She goes on to explain that, by embracing a holistic approach, Jiva Grande Spa’s experiences and its trained therapists, sourced from South Africa, with specialists imported from India, seek to treat mind, body and spirit. Treatments are designed R

Spa at a glance Owners: Taj Hotels Resorts and Palaces Spa manager: Lanuinla Walling Date opened: August 2010 Number of full-time therapists: 8 Number of treatment rooms: 4 single rooms, one couple’s room, one facial room, one manicure & pedicure room Hydro facilities: steam room, sauna, Jacuzzi, swimming pool

Professional Beauty August 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

(c) 2011 MOGA•BROOK / Nails by Suzie Taga Produced by MOGA•BROOK

johannesburg CELEBRATING

10 yEARs

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Commenting on the décor of the spa, Walling says: “Jiva Grande is housed in a stylish yet soothing setting that combines tropical overtones, flowing design and contemporary finishes. These complement the luxuriant echoes of colonial opulence synonymous with the Taj. The spa was designed and developed by the in-house Jiva Spa team to be a sanctuary within the city.”

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Bespoke products All products used at the spa are bespoke and made exclusively for Jiva Spas. Treatments are offered using unique products made from pure Indian herbs, Indian aromatherapy oils, natural creams and special ingredients. All the oils are exclusively hand-blended for Jiva Spas, and each has distinct attributes.

“The 100% natural range of Jiva Beauty products is made with a deep understanding of the therapeutic benefits of Indian herbs, essential oils, and pharmacopoeia,” explains Walling.

Signature treatments Suitable for all skin types, the spa’s signature facial – the Jiva – is a 90-minute treatment that uses the spa’s exclusive natural range.

“It integrates techniques designed to take the client to new depths of relaxation,” continues Walling. “The face is delicately cleansed, lightly exfoliated, massaged and moisturised. A therapeutic mask completes this wonderfully relaxing treatment. The client’s hands and feet are gently massaged during the face mask and the treatment is complemented with a full back massage and a fresh juice.”

Cape Fynbos, the spa’s signature massage treatment, was created to uplift the senses.

“This treatment is exclusively primed from the botanical treasures of South Africa. It commences with a scrub and wrap, specially prepared from Rhassoul clay, Atlantic sea salts and rooibos tea powder. This exfoliates, tones and enriches your skin, leaving it supple and smooth,” concludes Walling. PB

Professional Beauty August 2014

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Embracing a changing industry The International Spa Convention will get to the heart of business, practical solutions on profitability, effective operation and marketing Covering an array of topics · Spa and Salon Management · Key focus on spa and salon design · Embrace change and see the power of positive thinking · Powerful marketing tools with a small investment and huge return · These topics and many more

As a delegate you will: · Take home practical ideas to immediately improve your spa operation · Network with leading spa and hotel professionals while building relationships · Identify new revenue opportunities

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Save the date!

spa focus

31

The times they

are a-changin’ Topics which focus on the changes currently being experienced by the industry will form the core of the International Spa Convention 2014, which runs from 31 August to 1 September at Gallagher Convention Centre.

Marisa Dimitriadis

R

Peter Anthony

unning alongside the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo, the theme for this year’s International Spa Convention is: Embracing a changing industry.

Says conference host Marisa Dimitriadis: “There are so many factors that have changed the face of the beauty industry and spas/salons need to adapt their business model accordingly, or they will not thrive. For instance, consumer buying habits have changed, so the traditional system of homecare recommendation at spas/ salons is no longer doing the trick. The consumer of today is more educated and an unforgettable spa/salon service is expected or the guest will not return.

“Another important issue is the growing culture among some therapists who do not want to work hard or accommodate the hours that the industry demands.

Furthermore these therapists are not motivated to do retail sales and neither are they service-orientated.”

Dimitriadis, who herself has spoken at conferences around the world, makes the point that some salon owners don’t see the value in training their staff or evaluating them on a regular basis.

“At the convention we will endeavour to touch on as many of these issues as possible and offer solutions, with a ‘to do’ list for delegates to action following the conference. Most of the presentations are focused on how to make necessary changes and on giving interesting insights into how the industry is evolving,” comments Dimitriadis.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Steve Mululu

Bill Price

Sessions Counselling psychologist Peter Anthony will deliver the keynote communication on the power of positive thinking and how to embrace change. Anthony builds his talks around case studies which he uses to illustrate the tenacity of the human spirit.

Strategic business coach facilitator Bill Price will present a session in which delegates will learn how to discover their business needs and identify the challenges and mindsets that hold them back.

Steve Mululu will discuss the myths and misconceptions about dieting, plus the nutritional principles he teaches at Dream Body Fitness.

Dimitriadis notes that a not-to-be-missed part of the programme will be the sessions on 1 September devoted to staff issues.

“Here we will hear why, in the opinion of beauty schools, it is such a struggle to find good quality therapists,” she continues. “We will also chat to a few therapists to find out what drives them.”

Other convention topics include: Spa and salon design; Spa and salon management; Powerful marketing tools with a small investment and huge return; and Finance. PB

To view the conference programme and to book your place visit www.probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty August 2014

anti-ageing

32

The age-old problem

of ageing skin

Arguably the biggest category in the beauty sector, anti-ageing treatments form an integral ingredient of the salon treatment menu, with a multitude of new products launching on a continual basis.

T

born with inherited genes that will determine how rapidly and visibly we age. Secondly, as we get older the density and quality of our collagen and elastin deteriorates, as does our skin tone and tautness.

“Thirdly, our cellular regeneration slows down. Young skin regenerates every 28 days or so, sloughing off dead cells as it does so. As we age this process slows down, resulting in thinner, more wrinkled skin with a thicker outer horny layer and a less

dense basal layer,” explains Leibov.

She notes that the remaining two factors are reduction in muscle density and movement, which decreases skin tone and results in sagging facial features, and exposure to environmental and lifestyle factors, such as alcohol and smoking.

Professional Beauty August 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

he ageing process begins from as early as 25 years old, depending on genetics, lifestyle and environmental exposure, particularly sun damage.

For that reason, says therapist and salon consultant Lisa Leibov, it’s best to look at ageing as a whole rather than in terms of age category.

“There are five distinct factors that influence the ageing process of the skin, the first being genetics. We are

Photo-ageing According to the International Dermal Institute, estimates state

anti-ageing

33

that 80-99% of what we see on our skin as adults is the result of exposure to daylight, which is referred to as photo-ageing. Manifestations of photo-ageing include an increase in wrinkle formation, a loss of tension and elasticity, degeneration of the vascular supply and skin thickness, a reduction in the waterbinding properties of the skin, dilated capillaries (telangiectasis), hyperpigmentation and other skin discoloration.

While scientists attribute the majority of these structural changes to exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation, it has only been in recent years that they have come to understand the actual biochemical triggers that instigate these changes. These are chemical reactions that occur within the skin and include: • Generation of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS), also known as free radicals.

• Activation of metalloproteinase enzymes (Matrix Metalloproteinases or MMPs) with a subsequent decline in collagen biosynthesis.

• Glycation leading to Advanced Glycation Endproducts (AGEs).

Measures to help control these biochemical reactions include the topical use of antioxidants to fight ROS damage. Antioxidants diminish the severity of UVA-induced dermatoses and raise the amount of UVA radiation required to evoke immediate pigment darkening to skin. Recent studies from the University of Illinois have demonstrated how ascorbic acid (vitamin c) and tocopherol (vitamin e) are critical for use with sunscreens to protect skin from ROS. Although natural MMP inhibitors exist in skin, they decline with age. MMPs may be inhibited by topical agents, such as retinoids. For best results, one should use a product that controls MMPs while stimulating collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid biosynthesis, including synthetic peptides retinol (vitamin a) and its derivatives, ascorbic acid (vitamin c) and its derivatives and soy and yeast extracts.

Experts at the International Dermal Institute advise creating ‘sugar traps’ or cross-link breakers to control the formation of AGEs. The formation of AGEs in the body occurs spontaneously when sugar molecules come in contact with proteins. Studies have shown that a peptide molecule known as arginine/ lysine polypeptide can bind to sugar, preventing it from reacting with proteins and triggering cross-linking of collagen. This peptide molecule acts as a sugar trap, binding to the sugar in the body, making it unable to react with proteins. R

Professional Beauty August 2014

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anti-ageing

34 “Estimates state that 80-99% of what we see on our skin as adults is the result of exposure to daylight, which is referred to as photo-ageing.”

International Dermal Institute

include palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 to stimulate the collagen synthesis of fibroblasts, which in turn protects the collagen and elastin fibres. It therefore fights and prevents wrinkles and the ageing process is delayed. It is also recognised and therefore accepted by the skin cells as their structures are the same as that of the collagen messenger found naturally in the skin.

Peptides Robert Gobac of Dr. Gobac Cosmeceuticals notes that in modern technology, peptides have the ability to ‘wake-up’ fibroblasts (cells that produce collagen) and start the repair and improvement of the skin matrix.

“Other peptides will have the effect of relaxing the muscles used for facial expressions without damaging their function, which in return will reduce and eliminate the appearance of many lines and wrinkles,” says Gobac.

He points out that the main obstacle in the use of peptides for anti-ageing purposes for many years was trans-epidermal delivery of peptides to the deeper layers of skin.

“With recent developments of liposomes and microsomes, as well as innanotechnology, these problems are overcome and polypeptide effects can now be exploited to the greatest extent,” he explains.

Actives in Dr Gobac Cosmeceuticals’ range of treatments are encapsulated in microsomes which are formed from bio-identical lipids. This advanced cosmetic technology ensures effective delivery of key ingredients to deeper layers of the skin for the optimal stimulation of the skin’s natural functions. The range is known for its use of the ingredient 10-hexapeptide.

This is a polypeptide made out of a chain of six amino acids, which are based on the structure of laminin – the second most abundant protein in the body, which is so often underestimated and neglected in its function of skin and collagen repair.

The New Power Repair range from Pevonia is targeted at the 30+ age group, with even the cleanser and

Combatting lines

toner containing collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid.

Marine collagen polypeptides, caviar extract and hibiscus esculentus extract are included in the New Power Repair Intensifier Collagen & Myoxy-Caviar Timeless Repair Serum. Benefits include luminous skin, smoothing out of wrinkles, rejuvenation and deep hydration.

Also in the range is the New Power Repair Intensifier Elastin & Sorghum, containing marine elastin polypeptides and Power Repair Marine Collagen Cream.

Coverderm Peptumax is a total anti-wrinkle treatment system with a revolutionary combination of biomimicking peptides and strong immune and anti-inflammatory protection. The active ingredients

Juliette Armand’s Thavma Therapy is based on the company’s trademarked Effectox technology that inhibits the mechanism responsible for the creation of expression lines and wrinkles. It also offers protection from biological ageing and photoageing.

Thavma Therapy Lift Anti Wrinkle Serum, which contains vitamins E and A, combats expression lines and reduces dark circles in the eye contour. It balances the dull appearance of the skin and prevents loosening and wrinkles.

Also from Juliette Armand, Chronos Therapy acts as a skin shield. It is directly activated each time that an environmental intruder tries to disrupt the skin’s sensitive biological balance.

Chronos Therapy Wrinkle Filler is a cosmetic cocktail of anti-ageing complex and hyaluronate sodium.

Based on the high end technology of the trademarked Antitox, Opsis Therapy from Juliette Armand is a specific eye contour therapy that deters the appearance of wrinkles and black circles. It simultaneously combats swellings and dehydration, by activating and reinforcing the natural function of cells in the sensitive eye contour area. R

Professional Beauty August 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

anti-ageing

36

Pigmentation New products in the RégimA Zone anti-ageing range are the Pigment Perfector and the Zone Derma Zest Cleansing + Toning Gel. Says RégimA’s Jacqui Faucitt: “Pigment Perfector draws on the individual strengths of multiple skin lightening actives, which combined create a synergistic and cumulative lightening, brightening capability second to none. It incorporates Lumiskin, Sophora Root extract, the enhanced lightening action of black tea extract and the latest in stabilised vitamin C technology. Additionally, Kiwi Fruit Extract has been found to be particularly beneficial for undereye dark circles.”

The Zone Cleanser is an ultrarefined formulation, designed to impart a gentle cleansing action,

plant stem cell technology plus two additional cosmeceutical strength anti-ageing peptides. This unique combination works not only at a cellular level to ‘teach’ the skin how to be young again, but also on the skin surface to treat the signs of ageing already visible. without harsh astringents or stripping agents, with a secondary toning effect that leaves the skin feeling tighter, firmer, yet softened and without drying out. Natural actives include ruby star grapefruit, oat amino acids, lavender leaf extract and bergamot oil.

Friendly vitamin A

Marine biotechnology specialist company Phytomer Advanced Research has exclusively discovered XMF (Extra Marine Filler), a 100% natural highly sophisticated ingredient with exceptional youth preserving properties. Off the coast of Brittany in the Iroise Sea, the Phytomer scientific team identified a plankton microorganism capable of naturally producing a sugar with exceptional youthful properties: XMF. To collect this unique marine sugar, which has no land equivalent, Phytomer researchers developed a high-tech cultivation programme in their laboratory. The result: a 100% natural biotechnological ingredient that smoothes and densifies the skin. This unique ingredient has been incorporated into the anti-ageing skincare range, Pionnièrre XMF. Skin Doctors YouthCell Youth Activating Cream contains the latest

Dermalogica’s new MultiVitamin Power Serum delivers synergistic dual benefits to ageing skin in the form of a potent, more skin-friendly form of vitamin A and a groundbreaking new formulation process which enhances the effectiveness of the serum.

The new serum expands Dermalogica’s AGE Smart line with the use of hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR), a retinoid ester which intercepts the earliest signs of ageing, including photodamage. The benefits of this ingredient are maximised by the next generation in liposomal preparation technique, a laboratory process which allows for higher loadcapacity - and therefore greater potency and effectiveness - in the formula. This innovative encapsulation technology dramatically differentiates the new serum from past eras of liposomes, with the delivery of more stable actives, and the placement of the increased dosage of vitamins deeper into the skin, where they can do the most good.

MultiVitamin Power Serum has been introduced for daytime use, as a counterpart to Overnight Repair Serum. R

Professional Beauty August 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

From the sea

EXCLUSIVE BEAUTY SOLUTIONS Tel: 011 791 4027 email: orders@exclusivebeauty.co.za website: www.exclusivebeauty.co.za

anti-ageing

38 “Homeopathic aromatherapy - applied externally on a daily basis, stimulates a remarkable improvement in the metabolic and hormonal activity of the skin.”

Dr. Kateryna Tsvyetkova

Sun barrier Dermaceutic Sun Ceutic 50 AntiAgeing Sun Protection provides high protection for skin exposed to UV rays and helps to prevent premature ageing of skin. The skin is restored and protected from photo-ageing, spots, fine lines, dehydration.

Dispersed micro-mineral filters allow the cream to be completely transparent while maintaining efficacy. This unique formula also contains a powerful stem cell stimulator and repairing active ingredients. Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide form a stable physical barrier against UVB and UVA rays, while hyaluronic acid creates suppleness and firmness and moisturises the skin. Aloe vera soothes the skin, reduces inflammation and stimulates the production of collagen.

Alternative anti-ageing Dr. Kateryna Tsvyetkova, co-owner of Lilian Terry International, notes that scientific research has shown that premature ageing will be more pronounced in the next decade due to environmental factors such as global warming, increased sun radiation, an elevated level of xenobiotics and high daily stress levels. Therefore

the tendency to use non-toxic, non-irritating and hypoallergenic products that can prevent or delay the process of ageing has become a very viable proposition.

Says Tsvyetkova: “The main target of Lilian Terry International as a cosmetic company that produces homeopathic aromatherapy oils and gels is to obtain both therapeutic and cosmetic results simultaneously.

LTI’s facial range includes seven facial products namely Oxiderma, Hydraderma, Elastoderma, Derma Day, Derma Night, Aftersun and Coupederma.

They have been formulated mainly for normal to dry skin exhibiting premature ageing signs like wrinkles, irritation, itchiness, hyperkeratosis, hyperpigmentation and slow regeneration.”

She notes that an external application of these facial complexes based on the synergy between homeopathic remedies and essential oils after one month resulted in a marked improvement in the aesthetic appearance of skin. To prove the effectiveness of homeopathic aromatherapy complexes comprehensive research of skin biopsies before and after everyday

Professional Beauty August 2014

application of Aftersun by 20 women between the ages of 45 and 65 - was carried out by herself and Professor Tamara Zadorozna, both from the Institute of Paediatrics, Obstetrics and Gynaecology (Academy of Medical Science, Kiev, Ukraine).

“Results showed that a new generation of aromatherapy namely homeopathic aromatherapy - applied externally on a daily basis, stimulates a remarkable improvement in the metabolic and hormonal activity of the skin. The application of this product can be recommended in cases of premature ageing, excessive dryness, high sensitivity to solar radiation and on skin with a tendency to pigmentation and hyperkeratosis,” concludes Dr Tsvyetkova.

The Skin Get a Life Genie and Facial Cup from Bellabaci combine the modalities of aromatherapy and homeopathy, encapsulated in the best of carrier oils such as coconut oil, to address all the aspects of ageing, from the root cause.

Penetration is also enhanced to the maximum, due to the process of reverse osmosis, when you glide the cup over the product. This ensures also that collagen and elastin fibres are stimulated, cell renewal is increased and microcirculation is addressed. PB

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Nature's Secrets - A natural Skin Care Range, Now available in South Africa beauty Visit us at the Professional Expo

Stand L11

LIKE US ON

www.facebook.com/NaturesSecretsSA

info@nssa.co.za

anti-ageing facials

40

Tackling ageing, face on Joanna Sterkowicz was recently invited to experience two new but very different anti-ageing facials – Elemis Biotec Triple-Tec Anti-Wrinkle and Thalgo Ultimate Time Solution.

Elemis Biotec The treatment was performed at the Spa de la Veille at Marion on Nicol, Johannesburg, by Angela Broadley, Elemis business manager and head of national training. After examining my skin, Broadley recommended the Triple-Tec Anti-Wrinkle Facial. This facial incorporates three of the five technologies that comprise Elemis’ Biotec machine – microcurrent, LED and oxygen infusion. (The other two technologies are ultrasonic and galvanic.)

Said Broadley: “Biotec was not introduced to replace Elemis’ other treatments, rather it is a technology treatment that combines advanced bio-electric technology with highpotency actives and hands-on therapy.

Clinical trials have shown that Triple-Tec reduces fine lines and wrinkles by 68% and increases firmness and elasticity by 95%, after just one treatment.”

Broadley cleansed my skin and then applied the microcurrent, which felt slightly tingly on my skin. She explained that Biotec’s microcurrent is unique in that it bulks certain muscles while simultaneously elongating others.

Next up was the LED stage.

The Biotec machine first emits a red LED light for regenerative purposes, followed by a blue light which has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect.

After applying the Pro Collagen Quartz Lift Mask, Broadley did the oxygen infusion. This comprised powerful bursts of compressed air infused on my skin – a combination of 95% pure oxygen and actives to plump out fine lines.

The treatment was finished off with Pro Collagen Eye Renewal Cream and Pro Collagen Marine Cream.

Professional Beauty August 2014

Thalgo Ultimate Time Solution When I arrived at the Camelot Spa at Villa d’Este in Saxonwold, Johannesburg, Thalgo regional trainer Sadhna Makka explained how the Ultimate Time Solution Treatment had been developed over 10 years and incorporates Thalgo’s patented Age Reversal Complex.

The treatment is focused on the muscle structure of the face and involves an intensive massage ritual, known as the Skin Lift Massage, which is performed on each side of the face for 20 minutes. After cleansing and exfoliating the skin, the therapist ‘walks’ on the muscles of the face in order to stimulate the fibroblasts to start producing more collagen.

“We literally work wrinkle to wrinkle,” said Makka, as she massaged the deep furrow between my eyebrows and the nasal labial folds. “It is Thalgo’s philosophy to combine a luxurious treatment with results, something that the average spa does not offer.”

The Energy Lift Massage was followed by the Ultimate Time Solution Mask. This intensively hydrating mask contains Age Reversal Complex, hyaluronic acid and Bio Cellulose Strips, which Makka layered onto my face and left for 10 minutes.

To complete the treatment, Makka applied Ultimate Time Solution Cream and Ultimate Time Solution Eyes And Lips. PB

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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JOHANNESBURG

CELEBRATING

10 YEARS

31 AUGUST 1 SEPTEMBER 2014 Gallagher Convention Centre Professional Beauty is THE event where the new wave of trends are announced, and where you can see the top names in the beauty industry launching new products and offering substantial ‘show only’ incentives.

Get your FREE ticket at www.probeauty.co.za Incorporating:

2014

CONVENTION 2014

professional beauty johannesburg

43

Expo-sition!

Unquestionably the biggest event on the local industry calendar, the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo runs from 31 August to 1 September at Gallagher Estate in Midrand. Here is a tantalising sneak peek of what to expect from this year’s show.

Bodyography

Skincare A&I Importers will launch Skin Doctors Shine Free Complexion with T-Zone, Phytomer Oligomer Spa (multisensorial wellness massage), and Sculpt Zone, an intensive treatment for the abdomen, buttocks and thighs. They will demonstrate Skin Doctors Instant Makeover, Phytomer Relaxing Sea Water Foot Massage, and Priori Get an Airbrush look with Priori CoffeeBerry Mineral Powders.

Africology will showcase the agedefying Oxygen Facial, Soul of Africa body experience and Copper & Hotstone Pedicure.

New products from Anesi Beauté will be launched at the show.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Proudly South African, Beaucience skincare products focus on using natural and organic ingredients which feed the skin with essential nutrients.

The Re-Construct Anti-Ageing Line will be launched by BDR – Beauty Defect Repair.

European brand Bielenda pioneered the field of production of all-natural cosmetics with ingredients extracted from plants.

US brand Black Opal Beauty formulates skincare and cosmetics specifically for skin of colour.

Aroma serums form the heart of the CSpa range. CSpa Hair Wellness is an extension of the CSpa brand into the full wellness approach.

Visit the Dermalogica stand for a complimentary Face Mapping skin analysis and a prescribed skincare routine.

New products and demonstrations will be available on the DMK paramedical skin revision stand.

Dr. Baumann Cosmetics has created the only skin identical line in the world – Skinident.

Dr. Gobac Cosmeceuticals nurture and protect the skin while stimulating skinrepair mechanisms.

Elemis will demo a very exciting machine which is new to South Africa.

Environ will reiterate the exclusive concept of the Environ step-up system and showcase its various needling devices.

Ericson Laboratoire will showcase the Medi body facial care for Botulin effect, Regenerating DHEA, Anti-Cellulite and flexodermy vacuum therapy.

Look out for the Cocktail Shaker and Apple Stem cell peel-off masks on the Essential Specialised Products stand. eyeSlices is an award winning re-usable eye treatment technology that targets puffiness, dark circles, R

Professional Beauty August 2014

professional beauty johannesburg

44

tiredness, red eyes and anti-ageing in just five minutes.

Godding & Godding offers a silk skincare product range.

House of Zinplex and Adorn Skincare will showcase the full Zinplex Facial Range for pimples and acne, plus the new range for mature skin and the upmarket Premium Adorn skincare range.

I and K Cosmetics will give away free anti-ageing cream or eye cream with liposomes.

New in South Africa, Image Skincare contains actives without parabens, artificial fragrances or colorants. Unique peel treatments will be demo’ed.

Infinity Skincare imports the latest natural skincare products from quality brands and distributes them to leading South African stockists.

Luxury but affordable skincare brand Juliette Armand will showcase its wide range of products.

Lanopearl has a wide range of skincare products with advanced technology.

TBC by Nature will be introduced by Nature’s Essence.

Nature’s Secrets will launch four exclusive salon package deals.

Panchvati Herbals will showcase a new range called Back 2 Nature.

Pevonia will launch Stem cells PhytoElite and the Luma Blanc range that

redefines radiance and facial contouring.

Pharmaclinix will demonstrate skin-brightening facials that show a visible difference in 20 minutes.

RégimA’s The Zone! comprises targeted skin treatments for maximum anti-ageing.

The Rosa range from Rosa Organics is entirely organic/natural.

Six Sensational Skincare & Spalicious have a unique show offer – 20% off your order back in free stock to boost your business profits.

Join the Terres d’Afrique team at the stand to discover more about their unique spa treatments and bespoke offering.

Thalgo South Africa will showcase the new Skin Solutions – Source Marine Hydration range, which provides 24hour hydration.

Visitors to the TheraVine stand will see 2014’s new launches and learn about show specials.

Twincare International will showcase the Guinot, Mary Cohr and Matis skincare ranges.

Verso skincare is a revolutionary patented anti-ageing complex with innovative ingredients.

Xtreme Brite Corp’s brands lighten, brighten and give a skin a radiant complexion.

Nails Amazing Shine offers ‘one-stop’ solutions for nail and pedi care.

Aster by Mijona will launch Aster nail polish, which is free from formaldehyde and toluene.

The inventors of the world’s first soak-off gel and first colour gel, Bio Sculpture Gel, continue to create new colour ranges and exclusive

Professional Beauty August 2014

manicure, pedicure and spa products.

Visitors to the Calgel stand can have one of the new shades applied, see the Nail Art Tip Gallery and learn about halfprice courses.

Visit the CND stand to experience the most talked-about polish invention – VINYLUX. For every six colours purchased, get one free.

Digital Nail Art offers digital printed nail art.

Gelaze and Progel UV Gel Polish will be demonstrated on the Leonelda Products stand.

GEL-iT Gel Polish, GEL-iT Sculpture Gel, NAIL-iT Nail Polish Minx and Funky Nail Art by Maskscara will be showcased at the Maskcara stand.

The ‘IBN (3 in 1) one-step gel’ will be introduced by IBN gel polish manufacturing.

Medi-Heel products include a pedicure ritual that encourages consumers to move away from the traditional pedicure treatment.

Milk Solutions will showcase its extensive line of premiere professional manicure and pedicure products.

MoYou Nails specialises in top-quality nail products such as nail art, highquality nail polishes and much more.

Gel polish in a pen from My Sister.

Nail Affair has new summer colours for Luxio UV/LED Gel Polish and will launch the Akzentz Pro-fomance UV/LED Hard Buff-Off Gel. Nailsforu will introduce the Go Lac colour polish range.

Nailworks Distribution will introduce the first in South Africa Glass Gel and Chameleon Colour-Changing Gel Polish. R

online at www.probeauty.co.za

futurethis_sa

futurethis

professional beauty johannesburg

46 Neons by OPI include electric hues in shades of lemon-lime, tangerine, hot pink, coral, lime and purple.

Professional Nail & Beauty Supplies is a leading supplier of nail, beauty, eyelash products and training courses.

Fluo gels and Pronails colours will be launched by Pronails.

Sparkle Cosmetics Beauty Business is home to: Gelish, Morgan Taylor, Harmony Acrylic, Gelish Hard Gel (GHG), Essie, Incoco and Basic Care accessories.

Star Nail Africa/Cuccio Naturale will offer Cuccio Veneer gel polish and an international accredited certificate course.

A first in South Africa, Twinkle Nails LED Nail Art lights up when you receive a phone call or text message or EFT payment.

Velena South Africa offers European nail products at affordable prices.

Young Nails designs products to make salon clients more satisfied.

Body Aromatic Apothecary will showcase their roll-on, spray-on and rub-in relief, diffuser oils, massage oils and Scentstations.

Biominceur Slimming Body Wraps stimulate the lymphatic system, detox and improve stretch marks, varicose veins & cellulite.

Femme 9 is a 100% herbal natural solution for vaginal tightening.

Guiding Step will be launching 5 Brand New. Healthway is a natural health business that uses natural products based on a volcanic ash (Calcium Montmorillonite) to cleanse the body internally and externally.

Himalaya brands include Liv.52, Cystone, Bonnisan and Neem.

Lay’s Beauty will launch its treatment oil for muscle pain and arthritic conditions and a hair treatment oil.

Lilian Terry International Spa & Wellness Products will showcase Flexycups. Visitors can also experience the company’s facial gels and toners.

Join MatsiMela Home Spa for the

launch of their exclusive Spa Range.

Mio/Mama Mio ranges include Mio Skincare High Intensity Body Care & Mama Mio Pregnancy Skincare.

Kustie Personal Care Kustie is a brand of Natural Body Care.

Studex will demonstrate how offering a Studex ear piercing service can increase both income and foot traffic into salons.

Universal Contour Wrap has been a world leading instant centimetre loss treatment for over 20 years, with guaranteed results.

Hair Removal Tina Copland will demonstrate the new Adam & Eve waxes with matching preand after-wax products.

Body Sugaring offers 100% natural hair removal.

Imported from France, Cirepil-Perron Rigot welcomes show visitors to the world of ‘Happy Waxing’.

Depileve will showcase the popular ‘Practically Painless’ Bush Tree Hot Wax, now available in a 100gm cartridge strip wax.

Visit the Fast and Furious Waxing Academy for a chance to win a free waxing specialist course for therapists or non-therapists.

Helia-D International/Melinda Waxes will showcase the new 500ml Melinda cherry blossom post oil.

Redinger Laboratories is South Africa’s latest manufacturer of innovative depilatory waxes, and easy-to-use paraffin waxes.

Professional Make-up is accepted worldwide as a professional make-up line.

Proskin will launch GrandeLASH, Acorelle organic perfumes and Magistrali.

RevitaLash will showcase a multitasking, breakthrough eyebrow-setting gel.

The Lash Collection will do on-going live demonstrations of the application of eyelash extensions and threading.

Equipment & tools

Bodyography High Definition Makeup boasts exceptional complexion products and innovative lip and eye products.

Classic and Volume courses are available countrywide from Luscious Lashes International Eyelash Extensions.

JVG will launch new summer colours and an exciting eye shadow and lipstick.

Kryolan SA uses its own formulas and recipes to manufacture its products.

Now in South Africa, Stage-Line

Beauty Image/D’Orleac will launch Champagne Roller Cartridges and Hot Oil Massage Candle and will offer a 15% discount.

Creative Glamour offers professional brush sets, amazing eye shadows, pigment pots and accessories.

Indulgence Spa Products will introduce an imported exfoliation product and an exciting soy massage candle product.

Jaldene Marketing distributes Fabulous Aire (5-in-1 revitaliser/purifier/ humidifier/air freshener/ioniser).

Ladyshape – the one and only patentprotected bikini line shaping tool – is now available in South Africa, complemented by Ladyshape Guddi’s Temporary Tattoos.

Liquid Smile is the first professional teeth whitening pen.

Marica Salon Specialists is a wholesaler and distributor of hair and beauty salon interior, furniture, equipment and consumables.

The award-winning MICRO Pedi is a battery-operated device that smooths dry and cracked skin on the feet using unique Micro-mineral rollers. R

Professional Beauty August 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Make-up & lashes

Š Xtreme Lashes LLC, 2009, All rights reserved.

the global leader in eyelash extensions

For further information, contact: Tel: 011 453-3256 and Cell: 082 312 0564

info@xtremelashes.co.za | www.xtremelashes.co.za

professional beauty johannesburg

49 New from Mira Dynamics are the Konjac Beauty Sponge and Dynamic Organic Oils.

Perfect Aire offers one of the best air purification systems for any environment.

Plasmoline/Creative Native will launch a variety light make-up mirror range complete with salon grade mirror and dimming switch.

Pure Smile is the only 100% natural teeth-whitening supplier in Africa.

Clinics can go to a whole new level by becoming a complete Rozess 3-in-1 LipoSlim centre.

Sam’s industries will showcase manicure, pedicure and hairdressing instruments.

Warmheart Cosmetics, Nails & Salon Equipment is a supplier of cosmetics, salon nail products and salon equipment.

Wellness Fitness Africa is a supplier of high-quality spa, fitness and wellness products.

Tanning Specials and demonstrations will be on offer at the Caribbean Tan spray tan stand.

New to South Africa, Skinny Tan is a sensational natural self-tanner that reduces the visual effect of cellulite.

Spraytan is the importer and distributor of world-class professional sunless tanning equipment and solutions.

The Tan Lab will showcase the innovative 2 phase (DHA Plus and Euyrythrolose) tanning system.

Now in South Africa, Vita Liberata Luxury Tanning will showcase its leading luxury sunless tanning product.

Medical aesthetics & devices

Ultrasound, Combo machines, G5 and Skin scanners to the aesthetics market.

BTL Industries designs and manufactures nonsurgical machines for fat-dissolving, skin-tightening, anticellulite, anti-wrinkle, lymph drainage and IPL treatments.

In a first for South Africa, Chrysalis offers revolutionary French Starvac devices and cosmetics.

Genop Healthcare comprises four divisions: Skincare and aesthetic medical devices, ophthalmic and optical instruments, ophthalmic surgical devices and Visioncare products.

Filorga & LPG will introduce the Mobilift with the Ergolift treatment head of LPG, with demos of the Filorga Glykopeel and PDT light therapy. R

AIM Aesthetics Holdings will showcase state-of-the-art aesthetic lab equipment from Biotec Italia.

Beauty Tech supplies Diode laser, I-lipo slimming, Vapozone, Diamond + Microdermabrasion, Skin scrubber, Elpilation,

centimetre loss... ...the easy way UCW Classic guarantees your clients will lose a minimum of 15cm from their first treatment, or their money back. Results are guaranteed for 30 days.* Confidence is assured with a global brand, trusted by thousands for over 20 years. * Terms apply - please ask or visit website for details

+27 82 4710 277 universalcontourwrap.com/za online at www.probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty August 2014

professional beauty johannesburg

50 Hitech Lasers will be launching 2 x Lumenis Diode Hair Removal Lasers -– LightSheer Desire and LightSheer Infinity. IPL skin treatments and Hair Removal Multi-Spot Nd:YAG – leg veins and vascular lesions. Q-switched Nd:YAG – skin toning, dark tattoo removals.

ResurFX – skin resurfacing.

HiTech Therapy will launch new cavitation equipment which uses highintensity focused ultrasound energy for the treatment of localised fat and noninvasive body remodelling, as well as the Cryo 6 Cold Air Device.

Come and view Lamprobe instantly remove unsightly and uncomfortable skin lesions from broken capillaries, cherry angiomas, skin tags and many more.

Leenyx Technologies will showcase the Eclipse MicroPene for performing Percutaneous Collagen Induction Therapy.

Medilase will showcase the awardwinning Viora Body Sculpting and skin rejuvenation systems and introduce the Viora V-Touch.

Radiant Healthcare will promote the Vela 3, the best non-invasive body shaping

free solution to nose and facial veins.

U-Bio Med will showcase Tappy Tok-Tok, an aesthetic derma needle stamp that stimulates skin cells to induce collagen production for skin regeneration.

Software & online

device for 2013, and Clarker, a high-precision instrument that uses patented plasma technology.

Sonic Medical Systems UK manufactures A-Lift: non-surgical facelift, Diamond Elite: micro-crystal dermabrasion, Zeolite: LPL and radio frequency combined treatment.

Stern Aesthetics will launch FaceSonix and the BodySonix handheld facial cleaning & massage system.

Technolase will exhibit state of the art aesthetic/medical equipment from Ellipse, Lutronic lasers – CO2 and fractional BIOS Body Contouring.

ThermaVein SA is the instant, pain-

Offer highly skilled treatments to remove unsightly & uncomfortable skin lesions changing lives forever!

Latest releases from ESP Salon & Spa Software include major enhancements to their loyalty system, group gift vouchers, web browser access, and new Business Intelligence.

Salon-finder.co.za is South Africa’s premium online directory service for the beauty industry.

Sappsuma offers an app that can help you build customer loyalty. PB

Instant results!

A variety of probes to remove minor skin lesions with precision

www.lamprobe.co.za To order or for more information contact us on Tel: 071 875 5348 / E-mail: janine@lamprobe.co.za

promotion

51

Extending your Aesthetic Practice?

It is tremendously rewarding to be a part of an industry where we can make a phenomenal difference in another person’s life. A key factor to success is increasing ones knowledge constantly, advises Janine Thomson of Lamprobe.

C

ontinuously investing in advanced courses directly influences one’s earning potential, keeping yourself motivated and offering your clientele the very best.

You may not decide to offer certain treatments in your facility, however it is imperative to keep up to date and informed on what is available, your clients do, the world is at your fingertips.

In my aesthetic practice I use a combination of IPL, Skin Needling, Bioskin jetting, chemical peels and the Lamprobe for the removal of minor skin lesions. These minor skin lesions are skin irregularities that we see daily on just about every client. We as skin therapists can remove these safely on all skin types.

How often do you see raised dark lesions that look like warts or skin tags on skin types V & VI? These are very common benign, superficial hyperkeratinised lesions known as Keratosis. See the article in June Pro Beauty issue Page 51 Focus on Keratosis.

Telangiecstasia, Cherry Angiomas and spider naevi are beautifully removed in one treatment with no risk of scarring or pigmentation with the Lamprobe. All sebaceous lesions in awkward areas like milia on the eyelids, clogged pores in ears, cysts or acne pimples that reoccur in the same place every month or these painful ingrown hairs can be treated easily with precision. PB

online at www.probeauty.co.za

• Are you focussing on your existing clientele to offer them more diverse treatments to keep them loyal?

• Are you needing to draw a brand new clientele through the doors?

• Who is the clientele you are looking to attract?

• How do you stay in touch and educated on advancing therapies?

• What is your aim and mission as an owner/ skin therapist?

• What do you offer that sets you apart in a competitive industry?

View video footage on www.lamprobe.co.za and be amazed!

For courses on The recognition of skin lesions, Advanced Somatology and Skin Needling to create healthy skin, contact sales@lamprobe.co.za

Professional Beauty August 2014

business tips

52

On top of the world The annual Professional Beauty Awards represent the pinnacle of industry achievement. Winners of this year’s competition will be announced at a glittering, black tie Gala Dinner held on 31 August at Room 5 in Rivonia, Johannesburg.

Professional Beauty congratulates the 2014 finalists: ✷ Day Spa of the Year

✷ Salon of the Year (4 Rooms or More)

Life Day Spa, Cape Town Camelot Spa at The Regent Urban Glow Day Spa

Chique Skin Technology Lavana Beauty Spa Pure Esthetics

✷ Resort/Hotel Spa of the Year

✷ Nail Salon of the Year

Fordoun Hotel & Spa The Saxon Villas, Hotel and Spa Umngazi River Bungalows & Spa

SOHO Nails l Waxing l Beauty Young Nails Glen Marais Miss Salon London

✷ Aesthetic Clinic of the Year

✷ Spa/Salon Manager of the Year

Body Sculpting Medical Spa The Laser Beautique, Northcliff The Laser Beautique, Morningside

Mandie Goosen - The Laser Beautique Rosebank Jeanne-Marie Eloff - Willa Krause Beauty Salon & Day Spa Joanne Frances Basson - Sanctuary Spa

✷ Salon of the Year (3 Room or Less) Mommy Wellness View Health and Skincare Clinic Spa 88

✷ Therapist of the Year Lindiwe Zuma - The Spa at the Oyster Box Marian Nelson - Origin Day Spa Faith Gogo - The Saxon Hotel Villas and Spa

At the time of going to press, voting was open for the Professional Beauty Industry Awards.

All winners of Professional Beauty Awards and the Industry Awards will be profiled in the October/November 2014 issue of Professional Beauty.

Book your tickets: Visit www.probeauty.co.za and reserve your space at the Awards evening, featuring top entertainment from comedian Dusty Rich and dance the evening away with Zenith.

Professional Beauty August 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

product focus – pedicures

53

Best foot

forward

Particularly popular at salons, pedicures are done for cosmetic purposes to improve the appearance of the feet and the nails. They can also be done for therapeutic and medical purposes.

All-round regimen The Medi-Heel Pedicure Treatment is a comprehensive treatment, comprising Medi-Heel’s signature Chemical Peel (AHA exfoliation), a refreshing Tea Tree and Eucalyptus foot soak and a decadent foot massage. Feet are left soft and shimmering with a generous spritz of Medi-Heel’s Gold Spritz, with real gold dust.

Time out The MatsiMela 30-Minute Time Out Foot Treatment is a pure indulgence created to nourish, hydrate and restore vitality to the feet. It comprises the Marula Kalahari salt foot exfoliator, the Organic Green Rooibos Detox foot mud masque and a foot butter masque with Baobab Oil, pure baobab oil, pure olive oil and Legactif.

083 407 8280

011 880 3850

Fruity scrub Ideal for pedicure exfoliation, Bio Sculpture Gel Apricot Kernel removes dead skin cells from rough, cracked feet. It contains tea tree oil, apricot kernels and pumice to leave the skin feeling fresh and renewed and ready to receive a moisture treatment.

0861 246 435

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Take a load off The Lucky Legs Lighten Up Treatment from Mama Mio is a mineral-rich foot-soak, exfoliation and massage for the lower legs and feet, to help with poor circulation and water retention. This product, which fits in with Mama Mio’s ‘No Nasties’ policy, is loaded with organic ingredients.

011 033 0500

Professional Beauty August 2014

treatment review – nail fungi

54

Overcoming toe nail fungi Little did Delia Harding* know that showering in a guesthouse bathroom would result in troublesome and unsightly nail fungi that would endure for months. She turned to LCN for the solution.

A

fter examining my toe nails, LCN expert Yvette Nel told me that the fungi was caused by moisture which had become trapped underneath the nails. This was due to high humidity in the area, as well as the dark nail polish I was wearing at the time.

“The actual lifting of the toe nail may be caused by injury to the hyponychium, either through a bump or pressure from tight shoes,” explained Nel. Commencing the first of several treatments over a course of six months, Nel pushed back my toe nail cuticles with the LCN Edge Lifter and removed the lifted infected natural nail.

“We have to remove as much of the infected area as possible by using the LCN Pedique Clipper and the appropriate drill bits,” noted Nel. “The drill bits make it easier to work on a toe nail and allow you to access those hard-to-reach places.

Nail files cause discomfort for the client and should always be disposed of after use on a toe nail like this.”

Once the remaining toe nail was prepared, Nel applied LCN Connex Silver Plus. This contains colloidal silver and piroctone olamine that have disinfecting, healing and anti-inflammatory properties. She used the LCN Connex Brush over the natural nail as well as over the infected skin area and left it to air-dry for approximately two minutes.

The next stage was the application of a thin layer of Wilde Pedique Silver Plus (which contains micro silver and piroctone olamine) on the infected toe nail and the exposed nail bed.

This created a bonding frame onto which the product could be built. The bonding frame was cured under UV light for two minutes.

“Now we start reconstructing the toe nail by filling in the deeper areas with Wilde Pedique Silver Plus, section by section,” continued Nel. “This is to create an even surface.”

Each section was cured under a UV light for two minutes. She applied one last layer, covering the remaining natural nail and the constructed area. The sticky dispersion was removed with LCN Cleaner, following which Nel filed the free edge of nail into the desired shape and buffed the surface even with a Buffer Block.

My toe nails were set using LCN Pediseal, with LCN Mykosept fungal preventative dropped between the toes and under each toe nail. A wipe with the Super Shine Finishing Cleaner completed the treatment.

For home care Nel recommended daily use of LCN Mykosept. She stressed that regular check-ups and maintenance by an LCN-trained professional were compulsory.

After six months of treatment I was absolutely amazed by the result – I had normal toe nails once more. PB *The client’s name has been changed for reasons of privacy.

Contact LCN: 083 608 4757

Professional Beauty August 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

treatment review – nail fungi

‘Toeing’ the line

57

Nail fungi can be caused by a variety of reasons, in this instance from dirty ablution facilities at a camping site, writes Phyllis Hurter.

A

lthough my nail fungus was localised and affected a single toe only, it showed absolutely no signs of going away. Eventually I went to my doctor, who prescribed anti-fungal medication.

While this did alleviate the condition slightly, I was keen to try a topical treatment and opted for the Bio Sculpture Gel Salon in Roodepoort.

Tania Oliver, Bio Sculpture West Rand educator, examined my toe.

“In mild cases like yours, our salons would prescribe the Bio Sculpture Anti-Fungal prevention treatment,” said Oliver. ‘But for severe fungi, where the nail shape starts changing, we would advise clients to go to a doctor as the fungi eats the nail bed.”

She explained that because nail fungi is contagious the technician must wear gloves during the treatment and all equipment should be sterilised before and after treatment. Any disposable tools must be thrown away immediately after use.

Oliver commenced the treatment by washing my feet with Bio Sculpture’s Potpourri Aqua Soak for about five minutes in a foot spa. This softened the skin and prepared it for the next stage – the Bio Sculpture Dual Cleanse. This multi-purpose solvent removes nail polish as well as sanitises the nails.

Next came Bio Sculpture’s Anti-Fungal spray. Oliver concentrated on the infected toe but also spritzed the unaffected area to prevent the fungus from growing and spreading to other toes.

Thereafter Oliver placed a droplet of Bio Sculpture’s Cuticle Remover on each cuticle area without touching the nail plate, thus preventing contamination of product to the bottles and jars.

“Cuticle remover is used to soften the adhesion of the

online at www.probeauty.co.za

cuticle to the nail plate and is used to remove any build-up of cuticle,” she noted. “I’m now going to use an orange stick to open up the cuticle outline, starting with the healthy toes and ending up with the infected toe.”

All traces of cuticle remover were wiped off with Bio Sculpture’s Dual Cleanse.

Oliver then filed the shape of the unaffected toe nails before doing the infected toe nail, using the disposable black patch of Bio Sculpture’s multi file handle. She applied Bio Sculpture’s award-winning Vitamin Dose, which contains all the vitamins that are essential to the growth of a healthy nail. Next came another award-winner, the Lavender Base, which contains lavender essential oils to nourish the natural nail plate and promote healthy growth. A spritz of Bio Sculpture’s Quick Dry helped to dry off the Lavender Base.

To finish off, Oliver massaged Bio Sculpture’s Hand & Body Butter into my feet.

She stressed the importance of regular home care and recommended Dual Cleanse, Lavender Base, AntiFungal and Vitamin Dose for retail. PB

Contact Bio Sculpture on 0861 246 435

Professional Beauty August 2014

treatment review – nail fungi

58

‘Nailing’ the problem with laser technologies Hailed as a virtually painless alternative to painful nail fungus lasers, Harmony ClearChoice combines two distinct laser technologies, as Joanna Sterkowicz discovered.

I

was invited by Best Lasers, the South African distributor for Alma Lasers, to find out how Harmony ClearChoice tackles the problem of nail fungi. The secret to the treatment, according to Best Lasers MD Andrew Best, is the combination of two laser technologies in a single system.

“ClearChoice is a breakthrough in nail restoration and has resulted in countless happy patients,” said Best. “Onychomycosis, or nail fungus, is a tough adversary and won’t go away on its own. In fact, it’s not going to surrender unless you force it to.

“Practitioners have long sought for a no holds barred way to fight onychomycosis without risking the surrounding tissue or the patient’s health. ClearChoice is the long awaited innovative approach to onychomycosis tinea unguium.”

While demonstrating the machine to me, Best pointed out that ClearChoice utilises two proven laser technologies, namely Q-Switched Nd:YAG and Long Pulsed Nd:YAG. He showed how both lasers emit powerful bursts of light that transmit through the nail plate to the nail bed. The light is then absorbed by the pigmented yeasts responsible for the infection.

Non-specific heat conduction is introduced by the Nd:YAG 1064 laser beam, where the unwanted organism is thermally deactivated as the target area absorbs the beam of radiation and transfers the thermal energy to the unwanted organism.

“Against this kind of laser treatment, nail fungus doesn’t stand a chance,” continued Best.

“Another distinct advantage of

Before

4 weeks after 6 treatments

ClearChoice is that the therapy is both fast and easy. It’s the pre-set protocols that make this highly effective protocol a speedy one. Consequently, most therapy sessions can be performed in a short office visit.

“This treatment is non-toxic – the laser isn’t going to hurt your patient or cause long-term side effects. Furthermore, there is no need for systemic blood monitoring when using this system. Because the therapy is light-based and nontoxic, you’re not going to be burdened by ongoing monitored care of any sort.”

Best stresses that there is only minimal patient discomfort with ClearChoice. “We know that nothing is more important than your patient’s comfort. If a treatment proves to be intolerable for patients, they won’t come back for further treatments.”

ClearChoice utilises an In-Motion technique that gradually heats up the affected area. If a patient is uncomfortable the operator simply rests for a second or two and then continues the therapy when the patient is ready.

Contact Best Lasers on 012 998 9844

Professional Beauty August 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

sunless tanning

60

Going for The Tan Lab

bronze

Remember the orange-hued actresses in the UK TV series, Footballers’ Wives? That is exactly the look salons offering tanning treatments must avoid if they want return business. Luckily there are a number of professional self-tan products that will result in the bronzed glow so prized in summer.

N

ew to the South African market is the locally produced No Sun range from Brand Root Distribution.

The No Sun Self-Foaming Instant Tan is water soluble, thus allowing for quick absorption and drying. The choice of shade can be controlled by re-applying as required.

“Unlike other self-tanning creams, the ease of application and nonstreaking formula will be immediately noted together with the pleasant fragrance that is unique to No Tan Self-Foaming Tan. Key ingredients include aloe vera, glycerin and coco betaine,” says Bronson Hunt of Brand Root Distribution.

No Sun Tanning Capsules are also available. Hunt explains that the Zeaxanthin-Xanthophyll Complex in the capsules assimilates into the body and that the molecules attach themselves to the subcutaneous layer of fat cells.

“The top layers of your skin are

translucent, hence the appearance of a natural-looking golden bronze tan, which begins in the face. Key ingredients are xanthophylls - these are organic natural antioxidants - and pigments found in brightly coloured plants, fruit, vegetables and even flowers,” he says.

‘Lab’ talk Researched and developed in South Africa, The Tan Lab products are Vegan Friendly with Eco Certified ingredients and approved by Beauty Without Cruelty.

Says The Tan Lab founder Shannon Mathie: “Market research has shown us that salon owners are looking for professional tanning solutions that are

cost effective and profitable, without compromising on quality. The Tan Lab has filled this gap. Our products are competitively priced and above all, they meet the quality of top end international brands. No expenses were spared in the research and development of the products and we are proud to launch them exclusively to salons and spas.”

According to Mathie the point of difference with The Tan Lab compared to other self-tanners is its innovative two-phase tanning system with a unique combination of DHA (Dihydroxyacetone) and Euyrythrolose. “These active tanning ingredients develop in synergy with one another, but at different rates

The three keys for a great spray tan are – efficient exfoliation; being sprayed with a salon professional product by a certified spray technician; and moisturising.

Professional Beauty August 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

sunless tanning

61 on the surface of the skin. After our professional tan has been applied, your client can expect their tan to develop over the normal six to eight hour period.

This is the base colour and quite common in most sunless tanners, but here’s where it gets exciting even after showering, the second phase continues to gradually develop. The full development period of the Erythrulose is 24 hours – it’s this extended development period that produces the best tan ever.”

Working with the client The experts at Koebana stress the importance of the correct application of the Koebaba Professional Sunless Spray Technique to give clients a beautiful sunless tan that last between seven and 14 days.

“Before the tanning session, clients are usually pale and very self-conscious.

Focus on the end result, convincing your client that she/he will look amazing. They may be apprehensive about their first session and, as they expect value for money, it is vital that they be informed on how to prepare, what to expect during the tanning session and how to care for and maintain their tan. A professional attitude and cheerful persona are imperative. Koebana endorses the practice of ‘be their friend first’,” says the Koebana team.

They stress that the three keys for a great spray tan are – efficient exfoliation; being sprayed with a salon professional product by a certified spray technician; and moisturising.

“It is crucial during application to place a full-length mirror for the client to see the application process and to notice possible missed spots. Once clients complete their details on the client card, enquire whether the client has ever used sunless tanners before. If so what was the effect of the DHA, how dark was the developed tan, how long did it last, where did it start fading first and how did it fade, and were there any allergic reactions? If she was satisfied with a dark tan from a previous sunless tanning product, you may add additional concentrate drops, to darken the tan. If the tan was yellow or ‘orangey’, insist on a pre-exfoliation treatment, using Jobo Scrub and scrub mittens and/ or PH-Prep and refrain from adding any additional concentrate. If the skin was very dry after the tan had developed, try the Techno Rich solution and ensure you advise her to use a rich moisturiser like an R

Before the tanning session, clients are usually pale and very self-conscious, so a professional attitude and cheerful persona are imperative.

Professional Beauty August 2014

sunless tanning

Vita Liberata

62

aqueous-base lotion. Take special care when spraying areas that faded faster, to ensure a longer lasting tan in these areas.

“Exfoliation using Koebana Jobo scrub prior to the sunless tan appointment is recommended, especially for dry skins. Many salons offer the service of a professional preexfoliation treatment before the spray tan is applied,” says the Koebana team.

Spoilt for choice Launched this year to the South African market, luxury UK tanning brand Vita Liberata won the Best Tanning Product category in the 2014 Natural Beauty Awards UK. Vita Liberata is free from parabens, perfumes and alcohol and infused with natural extracts which are sourced specifically for their healing and skin enhancing attributes. Tans are quick drying and odourless. A patented moisture lock system effectively draws moisture to the surface of the skin, locking it there for up to 72 hours to ensure a smooth, moisture rich skin and a flawless fade.

Spraytan cc is a leading and established South African supplier of a full range of sunless tanning products and equipment.

“The Spraytan solution is water

based and dries quickly.

There is no standing in front of fans for a long time, no sticky feeling,” says Cliff Altree. “Our product is alcohol and aloe vera free and can be used on the face as well. It is odour and fragrance free and suitable for all skin types, even sensitive skin.

And best of all, the end result is a natural looking tan - no orange!”

Caribbean Tan’s Tan in a Can Instant Colour provides a naturally golden tan without streaking. It is quick drying and easy to apply. Product is infused with conditioning aloe vera for long lasting colour.

Protection Some degree of sun exposure is inevitable on a daily basis so good quality sunscreens should be recommended as a regular part of skincare routine.

Juliette Armand’s SunFilm sunscreen products incorporate state-of-the-art and highly efficient broad-spectrum sun filters which meet the strictest standards, such as the Australian standard for UV-A rays.

They also provide complete protection from UV-B rays (with SPF 2-55).

Antitox, trademarked by Juliette

Armand, ensures the antioxidant properties of sunscreen products with high protection factors. It is an innovative and powerful newgeneration antioxidant cocktail with the revolutionary self-regenerating mechanism of its antioxidant ingredients.

The mechanism is activated during the action of these ingredients, as opposed to common antioxidants which are counteracted during their action. PB

Professional Beauty August 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

KOEBANA SPRAY TAN SYSTEM The secret to the successful sunless tan and profitable venture, lies not only in the

secret to the successful sunless tan and profitable venture, lies not only in the choice of product, choice of product, but also in the correct application. With Koebana, training, service but also in the correct application. With Koebana, training, service excellence and ongoing excellence and ongoing support are synonomous with our quality products. support are synonomous with our quality products.

Should you cater for a small sunless tanning clientele, why not try our AEROSOL Should you cater for a small sunless tanning clientele, why not try our AEROSOL SPRAY SPRAY TAN, which yields outstanding results, especially when applied professionally.

TAN, which yields outstanding results, especially when applied professionally. Your clients Your clients will love Koebana – Sunkissed, Safe, Sensational. will love Koebana – Sunkissed, Safe, Sensational.

Carefully packaged to ensure success

Carefully packaged to ensure success

R7990.00 R6990.00 PACKAGE TOTAL VALUE – R10 000.00 PACKAGE TOTAL VALUE – R9000.00

Limited Limitedoffer offerincludes: includes: • • • • • • •

Turbine spray machine - 2yr warrantee • Turbine spray machine - 2yr warrantee 2.5 litres spray solution – 3 varieties • 2.5 litres spray solution – 3 varieties 500ml PH-Prep & 150ml Barricade • 500ml PH-Prep & 150ml Barricade 15ml Bronzer; DHA, Aroma & IssI drops • 15ml Bronzer; DHA, Aroma & IssI drops 50ml Tan Extender & Jobo Scrubs • 50ml Tan Extender & Jobo Scrubs 150ml Aerosol Spray Tan • 150ml Aerosol Spray Tan 50ml Koebana Bling SPF40

• 50ml Koebana Bling SPF40

• • • • • • •

POTENTIAL INCOME:

POTENTIAL INCOME:

R10 000 R10 000

250 Promotional Flyers • 250 Promotional Flyers 3 Koebana Posters • 3 Koebana Posters 100 Tan Guides • 100 Tan Guides 50 Client Cards • 50 Client Cards Koebana Training Manual • Koebana Training Manual Training DVD • Training DVD Full training & certificate

• Full training & certificate

www.koebana.com • mail• 012 333 5744 to: sales@koebana.com • 012 333 5744 na.com • mail to: sales@koebana.com

hair news

64

Crowning glory Tress-a-licious news from the hair front.

Tantalizing trio

Manly range The Nouvelle Simply Man range incorporates a wide range of products, including the 3in1 Performance shampoo, a sebum balance purifying and strengthening shampoo, and the 3in1 Performance lotion, a sebum balance strengthening lotion that prevents dandruff. Also included in the range is the Wet look gel, which provides a strong hold with a wet effect, and the Matte Groomer, a long lasting shaping paste with a matte effect.

HairCair Distributors have brought out three new products - a purple Tangle Teezer Compact Styler, four new pastel colours for the invisibobble traceless hair ring and La-tweez Pro Illuminating Tweezers. The Compact Styler rescues and styles hair anywhere in seconds. Operating globally, La-tweez has the sole ownership of the original patents associated with the La-tweez brand, including the world renowned Illuminating Tweezers.

021 448 8847

Fab formulas Launched seven years ago, Moroccanoil’s extensive line of luxury hair care products addresses the needs of all hair types and features a proprietary advanced blend of the finest ingredients to deliver optimal performance and dramatic results. Famed for their weightless quality, Moroccanoil products are now available in over 60 countries around the globe.

011 305 1600

011 608 3153

Dazzling array Buhle Braids congratulates Dazzle on the opening of its store in Sandton City, which caters to ladies of all ethnicities and ages. The store offers Virgin Indian Remy Human Hair Wigs, Processed Remy Lace Fronts and Full Lace Wigs, and Human Hair Processed Remy Weaves, among many other weaves and wigs.

Also available is an exclusive collection of Sheitels for Jewish women, produced from European and Mongolian hair and also Acrylic fibre.

079 203 6381

Professional Beauty August 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Everything you need,

from root to tip!

Some attractions at the biggest event in the hairdressing industry

# # # #

Live stage presentations and demonstrations Innovation in cutting, colouring and styling Latest products and equipment

Exclusive product launches and show offers

Bo ok yo

F ur e e r

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ic ke

ta

tw ww .pr ofe ss

JOHANNESBURG

ion alh in: Johannesburg air.c o.za fee. at: Gallagher Convention Centre e c a nd s a n ve the R75 on-site entra on: 31 August and 1 September 2014

professional hair johannesburg

66

Hair!

Afro Chic Hair Emporium supplies Brazilian, Indian Remy Hair and equipment of unquestionable quality.

Angel Professional will showcase its new range of organic products.

Angelwings Hair Extensions will do all-day demos and free consultations and give away cash prizes.

Babyliss Pro will demonstrate the spectacular Babyliss Pro Miracurl and launch the Italia Brava Professional Luxury Hair Dryer and the EP Technology 5.0 straightening iron.

BlitzFoil Systems will showcase its products at discounted prices.

Biosense – Inspired by Nature, Perfected by Science will showcase the South African Spoil – Super Powerful Oil and the newly launched Colorsense range – ‘Imagine the Reality’.

Brazilian Beauty Dreams will offer 100% Amazing Brazilian Hair Products, including the 0% formaldehyde and derivatives Blue Gold Hair Straightening System (certified by the Brazilian Health Department and the CTFA).

SETA-accredited Centurion Academy is one of the preferred providers in the industry for the National Certificate in Hairdressing.

CocoaBrazil & Co. – Celebrity will introduce a new line with Natural Hydrolysed Silk Protein for the Brazilian Blow Treatment.

Dazzle Hair is the first high-end store in South Africa that stocks Ethnic

weave and lace wigs, Caucasian hair extensions and Jewish sheitels.

Design Essentials products will officially launch this month. The product line includes a Professional salon exclusive line and a retail line for Naturals.

Desirable Hair Extensions will demonstrate how to put in clip-in extensions and launch new tape-in extensions.

ESP Salon & Spa Software has a number of new features to showcase with the release of its latest software.

HairCair Distributors will highlight Tangle Teezer, invisibobble, La-Tweez, LS&B Grooming, The Bluebeards Revenge and Label M. Hairgostraight will launch the Crystal

Diamond Keratin solution. Along with demar (KZN), Hairgostraight is the sole supplier of Bhave from Australia.

Hannon will offer up to 60% discount on all its products and is available for demonstrations.

HairTalk Extensions is a tape technique hair extension using the highestquality 100% Indian Remy Hair.

Hair Health & Beauty is one of the largest one-stop-shop distributors in South Africa.

Headstart – Salon & Spa Management Software will exhibit a comprehensive software package that will ensure successful salon and spa management.

Hindustan Hair offers 100% natural and real human hair Brazilian weave, Lace wigs and Hair Extensions Inoar’s Extreme Premium oil, with Argan oil, Myrrh, Macadamia and Imperial Rose, guarantees protection, shine and nutrition.

Itely Hair Fashion recently launched Color Xtend, specifically formulated to cure and protect abused hair.

Jungle Fever/Brelil will showcase its exciting new range from Italy.

Lilian Terry International Spa & Wellness Products will showcase

Biosense

itely Hair Fashion

Running alongside Professional Beauty Johannesburg, Professional Hair takes place on 31 August and 1 September at Gallagher Estate in Midrand.

Mizutani Scissors

Professional Beauty August 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

professional hair johannesburg

Pool Service

Blitzfoil

NicciG

67

Flexycups. Visitors can also experience the company’s facial gels and toners.

Marica Salon Specialists supplies Velvet Hair Extensions, the Nouvelle Italian Hair Colour & Product range, Kasho Scissors and Parlux Scissors.

Mediceuticals can help to identify and treat scalp conditions with its mediscope.

Mizutani Scissors have been one of the most popular hair-styling scissors among the top hair stylists throughout the world. All Mizutani Scissors are 100% handcrafted by a team of highly skilled craftsmen at the factory in Chiba, Japan.

Show visitors are invited to try the new Moroccanoil Root Boost and have their hair styled by their global stylist. nicciG Professional Hair Extensions will offer a range of clip-in hair extensions, keratin i-tip extensions as well as wrap-around ponytails.

Paul Mitchell will launch Neuro precision instruments for professional stylists.

Pettenon Cosmetics is a 100% Italian industrial group, specialising in the

Marica Products

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Get your free tickets at www.professionalhair.co.za manufacturing of professional haircare products.

Pool Service is a long-established Italian company in the hairdresser and beauty salon professional items market.

QED Imports will launch an exciting 2-step keratin product.

Discover the new product range by Ruutos, which is free from sulphates, parabens, petrolatum, mineral oil and phthalates.

SA Hairdresser’s Journal will launch its new-look, interactive website.

Sharplines, a division of Twincare International, has two stands this year at Professional Hair – Sharplines (for accessories) and the Babyliss Pro stand.

Silky Hair provides top-quality Real Remy Human Hair Extensions and hair care products.

Style & Image Hair Care Products will give away free sachets, posters and T-shirts (competition).

TIGI educator Dino Brown will be on the stand to cut and style visitors’ hair.

New products include the Oatmeal & Honey range from Catwalk, Up Front (Styling Aid), Oh Bee Hive (Dry Shampoo) and Headshot Shampoo & Conditioner treatment.

The union UASA represents employees in the hair and beauty industries in all nine provinces in South Africa.

Velvet Hair Extensions supplies for

100% Human REMY hair. Velvet Hair has Micro-Ring, Keratin and Clip-In Systems with a large range of colours.

Wand-A-Brush will do live demonstrations on the stand, as well as self-styling demonstrations.

Illinois Pavilion The State of Illinois returns to the Professional Hair Expo with 12 companies from the state’s vibrant hair care, skin care and cosmetics sectors.

AFAM Concept will introduce Ossat natural hair – premium formula with natural ingredients.

Organic products from Chatto Organic Skin & Hair Care have a high nutritional content that easily absorbs into the hair for a healthier result.

The Chicago Soap Company is a sustainable business that offers educational programmes on how to start your own business, a resource centre and private labelling.

Ethno Solutions will introduce three products for bald men: Shaving with milk, which is great for the scalp; a moisturising gel to replenish and prevent moisture loss and a postbald cream to restore equilibrium after shaving.

Solutions Beauty Consultants will demonstrate highlighting, low lighting and dimensional colouring techniques on relaxed hair.

Tamsco Shears and Implements will launch US-made cuticle nippers, Safari printed shears and Damascus Steel Razors. PB

Professional Beauty August 2014

nails

68

Spring into Summer

With the weather slowly beginning to warm up, we’re more than ready to kick off those boots, get rid of the warm winter gloves and treat our tips and toes to the first manicure and pedicure of the season, writes Sonette van Rensburg.

T

he coming Spring/Summer season offers a myriad of gorgeous, trendsetting nail styles and colours. Whether you decide to coat nails in the latest and hottest new nail polish shades, or a long lasting gel polish, or adorn them with something a little different, like a trendy wrap or nail art, there is something fabulous for everyone to choose from.

Designers are continuously working with the top manicurists and well known international nail brands to come up with the best and most fashionable nail styles to complement their collections. The runways are where it’s at and New York Fashion Week was definitely the best place to spot the latest nail fashion trends, which were not the usual run of the mill colours that do the rounds every season.

I felt absolutely spoilt for choice when seeing the

gorgeous shades that were available, from the palest shades of lime and mint greens, sweet melon and delectable pinks, to slate gray and vivid cherry reds.

Minky purple, rich Orchid and Fuschia shades are definitely at the forefront and making their debut as the most popular shades and Pantone colours for 2014.

Let’s take a look at what the fashion experts have predicted for the upcoming 2014 Spring/Summer seasons.

Bright and vibrant Primary colours, shades of soft yellow, vibrant oranges and bright blues were seen at Burberry, Prabal Gurung and Peter Som and added a splash of colour, making a fresh change from the usual neon nail trends we see time and again. Yellow is not the easiest colour for

Professional Beauty August 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

nails

69

every skin tone to pull off, so rather go for a more pastel version. Blue-green mermaid inspired tones are showing up on fingertips everywhere. The blue-green and gold colour combos are absolutely stunning, with the perfect opalescent sheen and blend making it just perfect for Spring.

Barely there pastels Pastels seen at Just Cavalli have become a little more sophisticated in more muted neutral shades with barely there but not completely nude shades, which include mink pinks and purples, pale blue shades and soft pastel greys.

Nudes are always in but for this season are somewhat chalkier, with a white base, showing them up rather than toning them down from the usual everyday sheer nude shades we see year after year.

Naturally groomed One look that will never fade is the natural understated look, seen at Holly Fulton, Tom Ford, Temperley, Matthew Williamson, and JINsoon For Vera Wang. It still exudes absolute elegance and nothing looks more sleek than nails that are in a healthy condition and groomed to perfection.

Nails are kept short and oval shaped, with a high gloss natural shine or polished in a very subtle sheer nude, or maybe even with a soft shimmer to add a bit of class.

Dark and bold Darker shades are proving to be a trend that will continue into spring, as seen at Alexis Mabielle John Rocha, Marc Jacobs and Simone Rocha. Fresh forest greens, rich blues and midnight blacks were quite dominant and really showed up beautifully against a palette and backdrop of white fabrics.

Nail art and effects make a comeback Kenzo, Ashish and Peter Som proved that whether it is meant for you or not, nail art is here to stay, however now with a more easy twist.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Nails on the runway at Giles were adorned with silver and charcoal Swarovski crystals, capturing the light and looking ever so chic. An absolute contrast was seen at Kenzo, with an inky base which was applied to the nail, and white polish lightly brushed over the top with a tiny brush, giving a wave like effect. If this sounds like too much intricate artistry to master, there are also some great fun party topcoats and glitter polishes available to create your very own unique effect.

Glossy greens and sunny delights Don’t let the upcoming Spring season’s shades wash out your skin, choose colours which make your tan stand out, such as a glossy peppermint green shade, creamsicle coral or even some sparkly candy shop inspired shades. So choose fun yet pretty, stylish and trendy colours that will complement your strappy sandals and stunningly printed bathing suits perfectly.

Lighter cool blue tones and shades are relaxed and just the right indication that you are ready to take on the warmer weather after a long winter.

Orangey reds and tropical coral-peach combos Reds are always popular however why not mix up your look a little, with a bright colour combo in orangey red, giving it a twist to the usual ordinary classic red. If daring orange is not quite your colour, then the allure of peachy-coral shades are a softer way to introduce them into your fashion wardrobe and are often more suitable for summer anyway. Besides which these shades tend to always look good on most skin tones, making it the perfect blend of peach and pink. R

Professional Beauty August 2014

nails

70 Rich Orchid and vibrant pinks

ISLAND

Rich Orchid, Fuschia and bright lavender hues in a fresh twist of irresistible shades have been named as the Pantone colours of 2014.

Bright pink tropical shades and even subtle berry tones are also proving to be very popular for Spring.

TREASURES

What top nail brands are offering

Summer Collection 2014

Morgan TayloR. From Morgan Taylor Nail Lacquer comes Casual Cool Spring 2014, a limited-edition collection of six rad polishes inspired by the athletic wear, vivid pastels and bright hues that ruled the school in the 1990s.

“People in the 1990s dressed like they were en route to practice or ready for a run,” reminisces Alesia Lanzo, creative director of Morgan Taylor. “The crew neck sweatshirts, loose fabrics, baseball tees and everyday street wear was casual, vibrant and athletic. This Spring, Morgan Taylor is throwing it back to that fly era with a refined vision of 1990s fashion.”

The new limited edition shades are: New School Nude Fresh, sheer nude; New Kicks on the Block - Stylish pastel purple pink; Oh Snap, It’s Silver! - Sassy Multi-dimensional silver metallic; Varsity Jacket Blues - Cool medium blue; Ahead of the Game - Trendy soft pastel yellow shimmer. R

51214

12PC COUNTER DISPLAY

Island inspired shades that will transport you to paradise.

50123 GOING NATIVE (C)

50124 MAKING WAVES (C)

50125 TAKE ME TO YOUR TRIBE (C)

CRÈME (C)

50126 BEACH BABE (C)

METALLIC (M)

SHIMMER (S)

50127 SARONG BUT SO RIGHT (S)

50128 TROPICAL PUNCH (C)

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nails

72 Gelish - Colours of Paradise.

Getaway inspired shades, six exotic crème shades that are reminiscent of an island vacation.

“For the Colours of Paradise Collection, we wanted to put a different twist on the usual bright colours that are typical for the season,” says Gelish CEO & founder Danny Haile. “Maliblu Me Away, a bright cobalt blue, is going to be the hit of the summer and all year round.”

The collection features six brand new, bright and fun shades – each formulated and named to make you wish you were lounging beachside: • Rockin’ the Reef : Bright coral crème • Pacific Sunset: Bright pink crème • Tahiti Hottie: Bright purple crème • Mali-Blu Me Away: Bright cobalt blue crème • Rub Me the Sarong Way: Bright turquoise crème • Lime All the Time: Bright lime green crème

LCN Nails.

Fluffy Nails are still a hit: A velvet optic and a velvety feeling on your nails – easy to use and a trendy look. This fine velvet is sprinkled into the still damp nail polish.

Let your nails sparkle in competition with the sun with the Brand new are the Fluffy Glitter Nails - velvet Magnolia & Buttercup Chicks Nail Polish Cube. Provide the final with glitter particles provides a sparkling and touch to any Spring outfit with the colours Sunshine, Light Rose, velvety surface for a perfect glamour look.

Fanappleistic And Attractive Nude.

A combination of summer colours, glitter LCN Nails particles and a velvety surface provides a Nailworks. sparkling Fluffy Glitter Nails and velvety soft surface. Degrease When Spring approaches, nature resumes its artistry. Nailworks natural nails briefly and apply a layer of the base invites you to create your own sunshine with Nailworks Alluring polish; for an optimal result apply two layers.

Fluffy Nails are still a Hit: A velvet optic and a velvety feeling on your nails – easyGlass to useGel and and Patterned Foils.

As a crowning finish just sprinkle this glittering a trendy look. This fine velvet is sprinkled into the still damp nail polish. Let it dry forGlass your Gel is a sheer elegant translucent sculpting gel that velvety powder onto the still damp nail polish comes ina seven beautiful shades. Incorporate fashion and fun velvet paw effect! Brand new are our Fluffy Glitter Nails. Velvet with glitter particles provide and let it dry for approximately 15 minutes and by adding texture with patterned foils for unlimited possibilities. sparkling and velvety surface – for a perfect glamour look. it’s done – a glamorous Haute Couture look for nails. Fluffy Glitter Nails is available in Chinchilla, ProNails.

Cotton Candy, Bubblegum and Soft Clouds.

This summer ProNails is filled with exciting hues of blue, purple, Nail Art Liners are classics and the quality and cerise pinks, silver and nudes. colour selection have been improved. Bottles ProNails is launching new summer colours in its Gelinium gels as well as the long, fine application brush are (soak off gels, permanent colour gels and Gellak Non Sticky gel perfect for individual drawings and Nail Art on range). fingernails. A fast drying time is a given.

Top of the range Sopolish is a UV gel polish that lasts for two The ready for Spring Magnolia & Buttercup weeks and is excellent for natural nails.

Chicks Series by LCN is now available.

Stiletto nails from Pronails are state of the art. PB

Sonette van Rensberg has been in the nail and beauty industry for 25 years. She consults with salons and spas and trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail and beauty technology, basic salon skills, client relations and perfecting technical skills. email: sonettevr@gmail.com or tel: 076 585 4191

Professional Beauty August 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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CONVENTION 2014

Rejuvenation is the Future!

Dates: 30 Aug to 1 Sept 2014 Venue: Gallagher Convention Centre What can you expect to gain?

Earn up to 13 CPD points

✚ Improve and rejuvenate your current practice ✚ Gain first-hand advice on the latest techniques and products, and gain top tips from industry experts ✚ Network with colleagues, and discuss the issues and challenges facing the industry today ✚ Earn up to 13 CPD points by attending the convention Supported by:

Medical Aesthetics Exhibition Reputable suppliers offering you the opportunity to network and source information face to face.

• Leenyx Technologies • Lamprobe • Conquest Aesthetics • Optiphi

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business tips

75

MA Convention focuses on rejuvenation Dozens of medical aesthetics practitioners, spa/salon owners, therapists, cosmetic doctors, dentists and plastic surgeons are expected to attend the Medical Aesthetics (MA) Convention, which runs from 30 August to 1 September at Gallagher Convention Centre.

Danné Montague-King

R

Dr Marshall Murdoch

Dr Margaret Fockema

unning alongside the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo, the three-day MA Convention includes an exhibition component on Saturday 30 August. This will allow convention delegates to network with suppliers to the industry during the lunch and tea breaks.

Commenting on the theme of this year’s MA Convention – Rejuvenation is the Future - programme coordinator Karen Ellithorne says: “This theme was chosen as it encompasses all that we are trying to achieve with the 2014 convention. Our programme includes doctors and industry specialists talking on a wide range of rejuvenation topics, enabling delegates to increase their knowledge of the latest trends and become more informed.”

She notes that as part of this year’s programme there will be demos on mesotherapy, peeling techniques and fat freezing. In addition, educational workshops will be offered by some of the leading product distributors in the aesthetic field.

Speakers International speaker Danné Montague-King is a worldwide leader in the field of skin rejuvenation. He will present a session on the myths and magic of deeper-toned skin and treatments that actually work for this skin type.

A plastic and reconstructive surgeon is on the speaker programme, namely Dr Marshall Murdoch.

Other speakers include: dermatologist Dr Rakesh Newaj; Shashi Gossain from Dermaclinix UK; Dr Johan Botha; medical aesthetics practitioner Claudeen Krause; Dr Simone Silva; laser specialist Buddy Reardon; Dr Margaret Fockema (a GP specialising in incontinence and pelvic floor

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Buddy Reardon

Dr Martin Kapfumvuti

Shashi Gossain

rehabilitation); Sonette Donker; practising therapist and clinical applications trainer Mazanne van Staden; Dr Antoinette du Toit; Dr Adri Hofmeister; Dr Judey Pretorius; practising laser therapist Cherie Fraser; Dr Léanne Swart; Dr Melanie Lambrecht; Dr Susan Swanepoel; Dr Martin Kapfumvuti; Susanne Ableitinger and Worjciech Swistak.

Topics A wide range of topics will be covered at the MA Convention, ranging from peri-orbital rejuvenation, to suppression and control of aesthetic inflammation, to combining aesthetic treatments and retail through the use of an imaging device.

Other topics include: treatment of hyperpigmentation in Asian and African skins using chemical peels; female perineal rejuvenation and reconstruction; labiaplasty; inoffice treatments for rejuvenation of the intimate areas; antioxidants and energy production in the mitochondria and skin health; TCA vs Hydroxy Acid Peels; exploring available lasers and other aesthetic technologies for your practice; laser lipolysis; fat freezing; hand rejuvenation; functional facial rejuvenation; hair loss and the efficacy of Low Level Laser Treatment (LLLT); tattoo extraction; and managing your patient’s journey.

Attending medical practioners will receive a CPD (Continuing Professional Development) certificate. PB

For more information visit www.medicalaesthetics.co.za

Professional Beauty August 2014

medical aesthetics

76

Brighten your smile Teeth-whitening is a common practice in dentistry, but falls into the field of cosmetic dentistry, writes Karen Ellithorne.

I

n other countries around the world, teethwhitening treatments generally tend to fall into three categories: professional in-chair treatments, over-the-counter treatments that can be purchased in pharmacies and retail stores, and teeth-whitening salons. These salons can be found in busy malls or attached to beauty clinics or spas.

In South Africa our legislation is slightly different, and the Health Professions Council of South Africa (HPCSA) clearly states that, because teeth-whitening procedures fall within the statutory scope of duties of dentists and oral hygienists, it is illegal in terms of the Health Act for institutions and persons that are not registered with the council to offer this type of treatment. This effectively prohibits the performance of teeth-whitening procedures by beauticians, spas and similar institutions.

Professional Beauty August 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

medical aesthetics

Lumenis M22 ®

77

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The peroxide oxidising agent penetrates the porous parts of the tooth enamel and bleaches the stain deposits in the dentin of the tooth.

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Professional Beauty August 2014

Courtesy of Gilly Munavalli, MD

As children our teeth are naturally pearly white, but as we start to age the mineral structure within the teeth slowly changes, and often our teeth will become a shade or two darker. Another very common reason for teeth discolouring is diet. Staining can be caused from bacterial pigments found in vegetables, certain foods like spicy curries, and drinks like tea and coffee.

The smoking of cigarettes and tobacco is another culprit. Use of certain medications, namely antibiotics (tetracycline) can cause dullness of the tooth enamel and also staining, which can be very difficult to remedy.

As consumers we are constantly bombarded with products that can be purchased at home and professional in-chair treatments that will whiten the teeth and improve our smiles. The key ingredient in most of these products is carbamide peroxide gel, which reacts with water to form hydrogen peroxide.

Carbamide peroxide is about a third of the strength of hydrogen peroxide – this means that 15% of carbamide peroxide is roughly about a 5% solution of hydrogen R

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medical aesthetics

78 peroxide. Carbamide peroxide is sometimes preferred in whitening treatments because it is a more stable compound than hydrogen peroxide, which allows for a more predictable shelf life. In addition, Carbamide peroxide penetrates the tooth at a slower rate and can assist in patient comfort and compliance, as well as offering a better-controlled result.

Dr Susan Swanepoel, a Pretoria-based dentist, says that tooth-whitening has become a frequent dental aesthetic procedure in her practice and that it is always her first suggestion to patients. She feels that first it is better to see how white you can get the client’s teeth naturally, before looking at the option of crowns or veneers.

How does teeth-whitening work?

The peroxide oxidising agent penetrates the porous parts of the tooth enamel and bleaches the stain deposits in the dentin of the tooth. In cosmetic dentistry they will usually use a higher level of the active ingredients than the overthe-counter formulations, and to accelerate the process of bleaching and enhance the results, either LED light or laser will be used. The effectiveness of the treatment is generally measured by using a Vitapan classic shade guide, which has 16 different shades. The patient will be measured before and after the treatment to assess the degree of improvement.

It can be rather overwhelming for a consumer wanting to purchase a home-whitening treatment as there is a wide selection of products, which come in many various applications.

Read on to find out about the types of applications and how they work.

• Whitening tooth pastes will generally have small particles of silica, aluminium oxide, calcium carbonate or calcium phosphate to help remove the stains. Bleach tooth pastes, on the other hand, will not change the colour of the teeth as they are not on the teeth for long enough to have the required bleaching effect, but can be useful in removing stains.

• Bleaching strips is another homecare option; these are usually made up of a flexible plastic that is coated on one side with peroxide, generally in a percentage of 6-10%. This treatment should be applied to the teeth for approximately half an hour a day over a period of a week. It can be very effective but will also take a couple of days before any real improvement can be seen. Also, due to the shape of the strips, it is also very difficult to achieve uniform coverage of the active ingredients.

• Tray-based teeth whiteners seem to be one of the more effective over-the-counter tooth-whitening products, as the peroxide is placed in the tray and then applied directly to the teeth, ensuring more even coverage and faster results. One does, however, need

As consumers we are constantly bombarded with products that can be purchased at home and professional in-chair treatments that will whiten the teeth and improve our smiles. to be cautious about the level of peroxide, as it can sometimes cause very unpleasant tooth sensitivity. If you have sensitive teeth it is always advisable to go with the lower level peroxide formulas.

• Newly available in the market place are teethwhitening pens. These are very convenient and quick to apply, and you can achieve very good results with regular use. When using one of these pens it is said that you will see an immediate result.

• Professional bleaching treatments are required when internal staining of dentin occurs; this is generally when there is heavy staining, or damage from overuse of antibiotics and whitening is ineffective. This type of procedure is performed only by a trained dentist or oral hygienist.

In office treatments Swanepoel explains that laser systems with various wavelengths or LED light increase the efficacy of whitening treatments. The high energy exiles the peroxide

Professional Beauty August 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

medical aesthetics

79 molecules, enhancing chemical decomposition of hydrogen peroxide to diffuse into enamel prism tubes.

Dehydration related to colour change immediately after treatment is noted, and colour regression after hydration does happen, but in Swanepoel’s experience, the teeth are definitely shades whiter, even after rehydration has occurred. The office treatment can be expected to take up to an hour and a half, she notes.

“Regular fluoride treatment after the procedure is necessary to enhance remineralisation,” recommends Swanepoel. She continues by saying that her professional preference for office whitening treatments is laser whitening, as there is a lot of literature that suggests enamel redistribution and enhanced mineralisation occurs in the teeth post-laser treatments.

Post in office treatment Swanepoel says that the patient can expect the following to occur post-treatment: • Gingival irritation which can last a couple of days.

• Temporary tooth sensitivity could be experienced during treatment, and for about two days after treatment. Tooth-whitening does not cause damage at pulpal or nerve level, so the sensitivity will be temporary. The patient may use anti-inflammatory medicine.

• Patient may experience surface roughening caused by potential demineralisation. The calcium/ phosphate content in the teeth decreases as a result of the treatment, and the patient may experience roughness on the surface of the teeth for a few days post-treatment. Regular fluoride treatments to demineralise the enamel are important.

• As maintenance, custom-made trays filled with peroxide-based gel placed over the teeth for one hour per day for six days can be used to brighten your smile after six months if necessary.

Foods to avoid If you have had a whitening treatment it is important to avoid acidic and tannin-rich foods such as: • Black coffee, tea • Red wine • Berries • Sauces (tomato, soy, curries).

“Evidence suggests that teeth do remain whiter post-treatment, but touch-up treatments are necessary to maintain the result, as a patient will always fall back into their old eating habits,” concludes Swanepoel. PB

With more than 20 years of experience in her field, Karen Ellithorne is the owner of Spa and Salon Solutions. She is well connected within the aesthetic arena and has been responsible for organising the Medical Aesthetics Conventions for the past six years.

Email: karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za

Professional Beauty August 2014

ask the expert

81

Ask the expert

about acne Acne is no longer considered a disease of teenagers but increasingly as a chronic disease that can occur at any age.

QUESTION: Why has acne become so resistant to treatment over the past decade?

DR RAKESH NEWAJ responds: The causes are multifactorial and their impact is difficult to measure. However, one can correlate stress, certain foods, obesity, global weather instability, pollution, certain medications, supplements, poor habits and overzealous cosmetic use to the increase in, and persistence of, pimples.

Comedones, pimples, whiteheads, blackheads and pustules are all part of the acne spectrum. They can also present as cysts on the face and body and heal with severe scarring. Acne, though more common during teenage years, can occur at almost any age. A baby can be born with pimples, called neonatal acne, or acne can also affect people for the first time in their thirties or later, called late-onset acne. This disorder of the sebaceous gland can affect up to 80% to 90% of individuals and can recur later in their lives after being treated during the teenage years.

This disease is basically an abnormality of the sebaceous gland, which is present all over the skin, except the palms and soles. This gland is under the influence of certain hormones, like androgens, thyroxine, oestrogens, progesterone and insulin-like growth factors, which can either increase or decrease the secretion of sebum. When there is an increase in androgens and insulin-like growth factors, the excess sebum produced causes an increase in the oiliness of the skin. However, when the duct conducting the sebum to the surface of the skin gets plugged, the oil accumulates under the skin and results in acne. Certain bacteria in the skin (P. Acnes) can also break down the sebum and increase inflammation in the skin, resulting in pustules and inflamed areas.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Comedones, pimples, whiteheads, blackheads and pustules are all part of the acne spectrum.

Stress Stress plays a factor in almost all major skin diseases.

Our brain and skin develop from the same embryological tissue and are thus closely related. Many common diseases like eczema and psoriasis are very resistant to treatment if the stress factor is not addressed. As far as pimples are concerned, one tends to have a breakout during very stressful times. This might be due to certain hormones being produced that stimulate the sebaceous glands. However, it is very difficult to measure the true impact, as not everyone is affected. R

Professional Beauty August 2014

ask the expert

82 Food Certain foods have been implicated with acne for more than half a century.

Many dermatologists have disputed this fact for years; however, many new publications have reached more conclusive answers. A high-glycaemic diet, skimmed milk, chocolates and consumption of excessive sweats can cause acne in susceptible individuals.

Most of our foods are processed nowadays, and many have been enhanced with hormones and growth factors. These do have a negative impact on our skin and stimulate the sebaceous glands to produce more oil, resulting in pimples.

The percentage of overweight individuals has increased over the last three decades. People are consuming more take-away foods and exercising less. This increase in body mass index has resulted in more insulin resistance, leading to derangement in many hormones that stimulate the sebaceous glands.

In cases of severe resistant acne, patients (especially females) benefit from weight loss. This normalises the androgens and improves the insulin resistance, impacting positively with the sebaceous glands.

Our skin is an organ which is exposed to the external environment and protects the internal organs from water loss, the sun, pollution, invasion by infectious organisms and most harmful stimuli. Thus global weather instability causes added stress to our skin and can manifest as an increase in sebum production. More harsh weather can dry the skin, resulting in a negative feedback mechanism to the brain, which produces more oil to lubricate the epidermal layer. This increases acne incidence in people who are prone to it. Pollution in cities can also increase the production of keratin in the epidermis, causing blockage of the pores and resulting in acne.

that can stimulate the sebaceous glands to produce more oil. Many mood stabilisers, anti-depressants and anti-epileptics cause acne. Steroids used as medication for body-building also increase the incidence of acne.

Several medications treating systemic diseases have been implicated in late-onset acne, therefore, one has to check the package insert properly.

These pimples tend to be resistant to treatment and at times one has to substitute the causative drug.

High-dose gym supplements tend to contain anabolic substances that increase androgen levels, leading to acne formation.

Medication reaction

Vices

The incidence of systemic and psychiatric diseases has increased considerably in all populations. The more developed the country, the higher the rate of psychiatric diseases. Thus many patients are put on medications

Excess consumption of alcohol and smoking do have an impact on our skin and all the organs in our body.

Smoking renders acne more resistant to treatment, and excess alcohol use can cause vasodilatation of small

Professional Beauty August 2014

arteries that supply the facial skin.

This results in over-stimulation of the sebaceous glands leading to acne and aggravating diseases like acne rosacea.

The use of excessive cosmetics can also block the pores and stimulate the production of sebum. The basic rule in dermatology is that if there is no skin problem, do not use any cosmetics or products and create the problem. One has to be very careful and choose only products from reputable companies that have been properly tested.

Products developed in South Africa are cheaper and tend to agree more with our skin. PB

Dr Rakesh Newaj is currently selfemployed as a specialist dermatologist in Waterkloof, Pretoria and Arwyp Medical Centre, Kempton Park. He also works as a consultant at the Disa Clinic in Sandton.

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product news

84

In the market Our round-up of newly launched products and innovations.

Handy cream

r

Enriched with Dead Sea Minerals, Jericho Hand Cream is suitable for all skin types, hypoallergenic and paraben-free. It absorbs quickly, protecting the hands from dryness and keeping the skin soft and silky.

Ingredients include barbadensis leaf juice and hammamelis virginiana.

r

Hydration deluxe

Sparkle Spa Collection Hand & Body Balm is a deep penetrating honey and milk body balm for long-lasting hydration. Other ingredients include oil ricini and lotus flower extract. It should be massaged into the body and hands using slow movements, concentrating on the dry areas.

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011 917 0805

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Enhanced exfoliation

Gatineau Radiance Enhancing Gommage is a non-granular, enzyme-based exfoliant for all skin types, including sensitive. It contains AHAs (apple extract) and a cocktail of vitamins to brighten and energise, together with a moisturising complex with includes hyaluronic acid.

021Â 701 2900

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Velvety finish

Thalgo BB Cream Perfect Glow restores radiance to the skin, with a unique combination of vitapulp, an unprecedented active ingredient that seems to visibly breathe new substance into the skin, and micro-prisms. Its skin-embracing texture with coated pigments softens imperfections and irregularities, moisturises the skin and provides effective protection against UV for a perfect velvety finish.

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Professional Beauty August 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

product news r

Clean sweep

85

The Anesi Aqua Vital Mousse Radiance is a make-up remover gel containing two natural cleansing agents that easily dissolve all traces of make-up, including on the eyes and lips. It contains apple surfactant, obtained from apple juice amino acids, and heptyil glucoside, derived from castor oil and glucose.

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r

Peel away

BioSurface is Dermalogica’s first-ever chemical peel. This revolutionary four-step exfoliant system is the first range of products to be introduced within Professional Expert Strength, a new line of professional products only available to licensed skincare therapists. BioSurface Peel offers the many benefits of traditional chemical peels, but with little to no post-peel redness or downtime.

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Professional Beauty August 2014

saahsp

86 Cidesco Section South Africa

Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta

SAAHSP QAP delegated by QCTO SAAHSP Professional Body has been delegated Quality Assurance Functions for currently registered NQF (National Qualifications Framework) Qualifications by the QCTO (Quality Council for Trades and Occupations).

I

n terms of Section 261 (2) of the Skills Development Amendment Act (SDA) 37 of 2008 and the QCTO delegation Policy of June 11 2011, the QCTO may, in writing and subject to such conditions as it may determine, delegate any function to a partner.

The scope of this delegation is limited to the quality assurance of qualifications or part qualifications (short courses) listed in the schedule.

Delegation functions The QCTO confers on the professional body the authority to undertake the following quality assurance functions subject to the terms of conditions contemplated in paragraph 5 of the delegation of functions document: a) Accredit providers for the qualifications or part qualifications listed in the schedule in terms of criteria determined by the QCTO; b) Monitor the provision by providers of learning programmes leading to qualifications or part qualifications in order to ensure that the criteria for accreditation contemplated in paragraph 4(a) in the delegation of functions document are being complied with; c) Evaluate learner assessment and the facilitation of moderation of leaner assessment by providers; d) Register assessors to undertake

assessment for specified qualifications or part qualifications in terms of criteria determined by the QCTO;

21513 - Diploma: Health and Skincare Therapy;

e) Certify qualified learners in accordance with the policy determined by the minister in terms of section 26F of the Skill Development Act (SDA);

24400 - Diploma: Skincare and Body Health Therapy;

f) Maintain a comprehensive learner information management system; and g) Upload learner data to the National Learner Record Database (NLRD) according to the NLRD load specifications.

This function was formerly done by the PAB (Professional Accreditation Body) known as the ETQA. There is no longer reference made of an ETQA, but a QAP (Quality Assurance Partner).

SAAHSP is in the process of a remediation and development plan to pick up where the PAB left off and to ensure that all learners are loaded.

SAAHSP will also accredit schools that fall under the scope of SAQA: 58310 - National Diploma Health and Skincare Learning programmes recorded against this qualification: 49951 - CIDESCO Diploma: Health and Skincare Therapy;

Professional Beauty August 2014

57472 - Diploma: Health and Skincare Therapy (CIBTEC);

49952 - SAAHSP Diploma: Health and Skincare Therapy; 67217 - Further Education and Training Certificate: Cosmetology.

All training providers previously registered will apply, as well as programmes listed under the generic qualification.

For more information contact Joelette Theron: joelette@saahsp. co.za or 011 675 6518.

SAAHSP Cape event The SAAHSP Cape Committee hosted its very own successful event in May this year. Visitor received a ‘goodie bag’ full of samples, pamphlets and a full size Bio-oil product on arrival.

Other companies that supported ranged from Lamica and Ceripil wax, Matsimela Spa products, Capri gel nails, Sparitual nail polish, Mila d’Opiz, Herbal life and Bio-oil, among others

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Professional Beauty August 2014

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Subscribe for R450.00 The magazines are published as follows: • January/February • March/April • May • June • July • August • September • October/November • Annual Directory (appears in January) September 2013

PB JHB show awaits

Shrink & wrap

2013

Medical Aesthetics

Safe tanning Bronze and protect

Sculpting Forms

Spring/Summer nail polish sensations

Investigating tools of the trade

August cover sec.indd 1

September cover sec 2013.indd 1

An explosion of colour

2013

2013

The nature of needling

SEPTEMBER

Slimming therapy reviews

Carboxytherapy investigated

Medical Aesthetics

BEAUTY

JUNE

SEPTEMBER

What works and why

Buyers’ Guide

Good Fat, Bad Fat

Hot on the heels

P RO F E S S I O N A L

Anti-ageing facials

Targeted software

BEAUTY

BEAUTY

Treatment reviews

P RO F E S S I O N A L

P RO F E S S I O N A L

Tackling teenage acne

www.probeauty.co.za

www.probeauty.co.za

Don’t shy away

2014

Oct/Nov 2013

August 2013

www.probeauty.co.za

Find out which is which

Business Advice It’s about communication

Nailing the retail Top tips to improve sales in nails

www.probeauty.co.za All the winners for 2013

Running a Spa or Salon Small things make the biggest difference

2013/07/26 2:13 PM

2013/08/23 5:41 PM

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Regulars: Industry news, Spa news, Business tips, Medical Aesthetics, Beauty product focus, Latest products, Treatment reviews, Nail updates, Spa and Salon reviews.

Features: Lasers & IPLs, Body Shaping, Male grooming, Permanent Make up, Anti-Ageing, Software, Hair removal, Pigmentation, Show previews, Sun protection, Slimming wraps, Microneedling, Fragrances and candles, Ingredients... and more.

For enquiries: Tel: 011 781 5970

BEAUTY ONLINE: VISIT: www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty August 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

It’s NEVER too early or late to start benefiting from the regenerative properties of QMS Medicosmetics!

Unlock the key to skin health with an effective regimen of well-chosen products formulated by the world renowned aesthetic surgeon and leading international authority on skincare Dr Erich Schulte. The QMS Medicosmetics collection addresses an extensive range of face and body skincare needs. Proven formulas for all skin types.

Available at leading salons countrywide and at the spas of the following luxurious hotels: Cape Grace • Ellerman House • Fairlawns • Fancourt • Saxon

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South African sole distributor - Futurethis info@futurethis.co.za • 0860 018 022 • www.futurethis.co.za www.qmsmedicosmetics.co.za

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