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CONTENTS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

26

Jan/Feb 2013 Regulars

Features

9 Industry news Local and international news from the beauty front

37 PB Cape Town 2013 What’s happening at the show 41 Skin Science The ingredient revolution

17 Business The importance of SOPs

49 Post pregnancy Treatments experienced first-hand

20 Healthy Ageing@Dr Gys Interactive wellness column

70 Treat & cover The latest in treatment foundations

33 Treatment reviews Current offerings

Nails

67 Product news All the latest launches

57 Retail aftercare Successful selling techniques

Spa focus

61 Ready for retail Top sellers in nail care

23 Spa news What’s happening in the spa industry

Medical Aesthetics

25 Enhanced beauty Mo Beautiful You – the first Babor beauty spa

63 Surgical versus non-surgical Specialist doctors’ report

26 Holistic wellbeing Africology Spa partners with Exec Care 29 Spa trends 2013 What is predicted for the SA spa market

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63

41

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WELCOME

T

online at www.probeauty.co.za

he year has only just begun, so why am I so tired? I think that most of us are far too hard on ourselves: we work far too many hours, and neglect to find that balance that is so essential to living a healthier, more productive life. Demands are high, especially for those who run their own businesses. There is never a moment to take that welldeserved break and recharge.

It’s 2013, and we always talk about those New Year’s resolutions we have made – what you want to achieve and how you are going to get there. But, for a moment, let’s just put the list in a drawer, and focus on how we are going to take better care of ourselves. Only then will all the rest of the pieces of the puzzle fall into place. We are no good to anyone, including ourselves, if we are running on low.

Our brains are like “never say die” batteries – a constant buzz of energy and activity. Where is the switch-off button? My night light might be turned off when I go to bed, but trust me I still sit awake in the dark for at least a half an hour going through the day, deciding what still needs to be done, who I need to call, what I am going to make for dinner tomorrow, when do I need to pick the kids up from school? – the list goes on and on …

Take time out, put yourself first, and success in 2013 will be yours.

Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Ice Site Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970 | Fax: 011 781 6079

Happy New Year

Publisher Mark Moloney

011 781 5970

Managing Director Yolanda Knott

083 654 9098 yolanda@probeauty.co.za

mark@probeauty.co.za

Commercial Director Philip Woods 011 781 5970

phil@probeauty.co.za

Editor-in-chief Sally Harvey

011 781 5970

sally@probeauty.co.za

Sales manager Belinda Wewege

073 033 8599 belinda@probeauty.co.za

Senior Sales executive Charlene Dickson 082 758 1703 charlene@probeauty.co.za

Jan/Feb 2013

www.probeauty.co.za

best

sellers

Subscribe 9 issues for R429 (SA) To receive your copy of Professional Beauty call 011 781 5970

Retailing nail aftercare

Planning ahead SA Spa Trends 2013

RAVE

Reviews Post pregnancy treatments

Skin Science

The ingredient revolution

On the cover Cover courtesy of Sothys 011 880 4077

The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher. Additional pics: www.istockphoto.com

Sales executive - Classifieds and web advertising Sandy Paulo 079 736 2010 sandy@probeauty.co.za Sales executive - Medical Aesthetics Sally-Jane Nkomo 071 268 2868 sally-jane@probeauty.co.za Subscriptions Salomie Scarth

011 781 5970

salomie@probeauty.co.za

Art director Ursula Wong

011 781 5970

ursula@probeauty.co.za

Accounts manager Vanessa de Almeida 011 781 5970

vanessa@probeauty.co.za

Operations manager Barbara Hocking 011 781 5970

barbara@probeauty.co.za

Marketing manager Stacey Platt 011 781 5970

stacey@tetradeevents.com

Social media and marketing Ilia Zolas 011 781 5970

Ilia@probeauty.co.za

Sales admin assistant Obey Dube 011 781 5970

obey@probeauty.co.za

Printers Paper Street Print

Visit www.probeauty.co.za and follow us on twitter and facebook

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Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2013

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NEWS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Looking Good LCN achieves 10 years of service Local distributor Looking Good LCN has just completed its 10th year of service to the professional beauty market. Owner Lea Castro and Isabel Fenner are well pleased with the growth that the business has experienced, especially over the past five years. “Initially, when we took over the distribution of the LCN brand, it was tough. We had to build the business up slowly, as many were still unfamiliar with the range. Today, by educating the market, we sit in a very different position where businesses and customers are actually phoning us,” says Castro. “All I can say is that having the right team makes all the difference. We currently have 16 staff members on board, my sales team all come from the industry, have built their own

experience in the market, and, most importantly, are sold on the LCN brand,” she says. “They are therefore better able to understand the clients’ needs, help them to make the right choices, and promote a brand they believe in.” Before taking over the distribution of LCN, Castro became loyal to the brand through her years of work as a nail technician. When she could not receive stock anymore, she took it upon herself to approach Wilde Cosmetics in Germany, and, as a result, steered her career path in a totally new direction. “At the beginning it was hard work, we had a small team, and had to dispel all

Local brands receive consumer recognition at Fairlady Best of Beauty Awards 2012 The Fairlady Best of Beauty Awards 2012 received more entries this year than ever before. Among over 700 entries, local products had a notable presence, being nominated across a number of categories, with some taking top honours for their value, quality and reliability. “We are seeing a big change in the way consumers look towards beauty products,” said Candice-Lee Kannemeyer, Fairlady fashion and beauty director. “They are asking probing questions, wanting to know more about their ingredients and where they are made. Quality is their key concern, whether the product comes from Paris or Johannesburg.” Nominated products included: Mioja White Clay & Chamomile Skin Polish; Spalicious Mandarin & Sandalwood Self Heating Sugar Scrub; Carribean Tan Tanning Spritzer in

B for White to Beige Skin; Dr Gobac Cosmeceuticals Facial Sunscreen SPF 25; Theravine Ultravine Advance RCS Day Cream; SOil Uplifting Coconut Hand Wash; Sh’zen Men EnneaEssence TM Recovery Treatment; Annique Forever Young Crème De Nuit and Essence Antioxidant Radiance Masque; and Charlotte Rhys Spa Rituals for Feet range. Optiphi 2 in 1 Facial Cleanser and Moisture Control Light received the Best SA Product Award. Other SA winners were Malee Natural Science Solid Perfume, Treemendus Tea Tree Shampoo and Kalahari Tsamma Nourishing Nail Oil. Local online beauty experts were also saluted with a new award for Best Beauty Blogger. The winner was Victoria Tatham for her blog www.kissblushandtell.com, with acknowledgement given to Emmy Schofield for www.rougebeauty.co.za and Dimi Ingle for www. stylescoop.co.za

the negativity the previous distributor had created in the industry. But through perseverance, commitment and faith, we are where we are today,” Castro says. “I am living my dream! At

Looking Good LCN we dream big. We haven’t even touched the surface of where we would like to take the brand. In fact, our vision is to have LCN in every salon in South Africa,” she concludes.

Professional Beauty Network KZN receives phenomenal response On November 5, over 50 beauty professionals gathered at Oscars in Durban North for the launch of the Professional Beauty Network KZN. Organisers Sonette van Rensburg and Michelle Arde were delighted with the turnout and enthusiasm of Left to right: Professional Beauty Network organisers, those who participated in Sonette van Rensburg (left) and Michelle Arde (right) this worthwhile event. The with Aby Ray of East Coast Radio. aim of this professional networking group is Programme were donated to to uplift the spa and beauty the ECR Toy Story Fund to aid industry, keeping its members underprivileged children. up to date with ever-changing As commercial director, Philip trends, technology, education Woods said: “This initiative is and product innovation. It also something that the industry has provides a platform for spa and been waiting for a long time, salon owners and therapists to particularly in KZN. The idea network, sharing their expertise of bringing people together to and contacts for greater further their knowledge and collective business benefit. skills, and communicate among This will be achieved through themselves, is of great value to monthly network meetings. At our industry. The inaugural event each meeting, professionals and was a great success and I am sure industry experts will talk about it can only go from strength to pertinent industry-related topics strength.” that will ultimately be of benefit To join the Network contact: to the performance and success Sonette on 076 585 4191, Michelle of beauty businesses. on 082 326 0083 or visit www. The proceeds raised from a raffle professionalbeautynetworkkzn. to win a one-year subscription to webs.com the Professional Beauty Rewards

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2013

9


In brief

■ New distributor for Harley Wax: Harley Wax introduces Janine Coetzee and Audrey Thomas as its new distributors for the Garden Route and Eastern Cape. Janine and Audrey began distributing the Harley Wax range in the Garden Route earlier this year, but due to a growing demand for the range in Port Elizabeth and East London, have also decided to take on distributorship of the entire Eastern Cape region. For further information contact Janine on: 0837363404 or email: janine@harleywax.co.za. ■ Babor receives Spa Treatment Award: The Spa Business publishing company based in Bad Boll, Germany, which publishes the Spa Business Magazine and professional magazine Kosmetik & Pflege, presented Babor with a Spa Treatment Award in the category “effect” for its new treatment Skinovage Effective Touch. Judges were impressed with the superior quality and actives of the products used combined with the massage technique developed by renowned masseur and physiotherapist Ricky Welch, and the supporting training and treatment documents. ■ Environ appoints sales and distribution manager Towards the end of last year, Bradley Hansia joined Environ as its sales and distribution manager. After working at the Nelson Mandela Metropolitan University (NMMU) as a lecturer in marketing and business management for the past three years. Bradley was previously employed by two major corporations - Lafarge Construction and SAB Miller.

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Î

NEWS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

SA hosts first IFSCC The first IFSCC Congress held on African soil was hosted by local cosmetic association the South African Society of Cosmetic Chemists (Coschem), at the Sandton Convention Centre. This year, for the first time since the organisation’s inception, the International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) Congress was hosted by an African country. Held every two years, the congress provides a platform for the world’s most renowned researchers in cosmetic science to present the latest discoveries to their peers. This year over 400 delegates from across the globe descended on South Africa. The opening ceremony on 15 October was chaired by current IFSCC president and Coschem treasurer, Roy Gardiner. The keynote speaker was Professor Aubrey Parsons, past president of Coschem and renowned

researcher into ingredients used in the food and cosmetic industries. Professor Parsons spoke about the abundance of local botanicals that have potential applications in cosmetic formulation. His on-going research has been used in numerous applications in local products. The evening closed to a journey through Africa’s history of music with a performance by African Frenzy. Running concurrently to the congress was Cosmetex Expo, which saw both local

A& I Importers hosts Prosper in Beauty Conference A & I Importers’ nationwide ‘Prosper in Beauty Conference’ left many of its attendees inspired and motivated to implement the advice given by various prominent speakers, such as Tracy May-Harriot, celebrity UK facialist and Priori Skincare’s international director of education and business development. Topics included: the latest spa trends; how to increase your staff’s selling confidence; advice on how to employ the perfect staff; and a live demonstration on the allnew manual facelift. A&I Importers also used the platform to launch the Priori CoffeeBerry Naturaceuticals Anti-Ageing skincare range. The new range was very well received, with many of A&I Importer’s participating partners eager to incorporate it. The conference achieved what it set out to do, namely to educate and encourage salons

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2013

and spas to improve their businesses and profits. It was held towards the end of last year in Durban, Cape Town and Johannesburg. A&I Importers believes that this will become an annual event that will be anticipated by all spa and salon owners that wish to advance and grow their businesses.

and international companies showcasing their latest product offerings for cosmetic formulations. Delegates to the congress were able to visit the stands as well as attend the poster sessions presented during the tea breaks. With over 160 posters ranging across a spectrum from the latest in anti-ageing technologies to the potential use of new polymers in hair care, the sessions allowed delegates to experience and learn the best that cosmetic science innovation has to offer. Written by Nicola Popplewell

Pill claims to prolong Botox effect American manufacturer Eden Aesthetics says it has developed a nutritional supplement that promises to enhance the wrinklesmoothing effects of Botox by up to 25%, and, in addition could help the injections take effect faster. The company’s experts have found that the more zinc in the human tissues of the person being injected with Botox, the greater its effect. They also believe that it is more beneficial to ingest the zinc in a supplement than add it to the toxin in the laboratory process. The Zytaze pill contains a blend of zinc and phytase to increase zinc absorption. Clinical trials have demonstrated an increase in zinc levels four days prior to a Botox injection, resulting in an increase in the treatment’s effect and duration.


0109GAT_PROFBEAUTY.indd 1

2012/07/20 10:57 AM


NEWS

Middle East beauty market sees positive growth Beauty and personal care is a massive market in the Middle East, particularly for international cosmetics and toiletries manufacturers, with the UAE and Saudi Arabia in the Gulf leading the way in terms of market size. In fact, Saudi Arabia has one of the largest beauty and personal care industries in the world, and its demand was untouched by the effects of the global economic downturn, which has been slowing down growth in many industries in Western countries. As the largest International Trade Fair for beauty, hair, fragrances and wellbeing, Beautyworld Middle East has also grown in terms of its visitors and exhibitors. The 2012 show hosted 827 exhibitors from 50 countries and welcomed 22 243 visitors from 122 countries, 81% of which were key decision-

makers in their organisations. The organisation, which has been going strong for the past 16 years, is confident that the numbers will be even more for the event to take place from 28-30 May 2013 at Dubai International Convention and Exhibition Centre. For more information visit www. beautyworldME.com

Healthy Ageing Institute chooses Syneron Elos Plus Radiant Healthcare is proud to announce that the first Syneron Elos Plus was delivered to Dr Gys du Plessis at his Healthy Ageing Institute in Woodmead, Sandton. The Elos Plus is a platform that uses the combination of light energies and bi-polar radio frequency to safely treat all skin types. The Elos Plus offers a variety of treatments, from Motif painless hair

Dr Gys du Plessis and his assistant Sonja van Schalkwyk.

removal, skin rejuvenation, skin tightening and sublative rejuvenation.

Angelic Nails moves premises Professional Beauty visited Angelic Nails’ new training and distribution centre situated in the Honeydew shopping centre, corner Beyers Naude and Blueberry Road. Owner Antoinette Oosthuizen is delighted with the fact that the company can operate and service its clients all under one roof. “We have far more space

Left to right: Carla Henning, Sonette van Rensburg, Sally Harvey and Antoinette Oosthuizen.

now, especially in terms of training, where we can accommodate intimate groups rather than just oneon-one sessions,” she says.

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2013

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NEWS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Imbalie Beauty geared to take business forward in 2013 At a press event held towards the end of last year, Esna Colyn, CEO of Imbalie Beauty, announced the group’s plans to transform and expand its salon offering in the market. Currently sitting at 150 beauty salons nationally that produce 120 000 treatments per month performed by a total of 800 therapists, nail technicians and hair stylists, the group’s aim is to grow this figure to 300 beauty salons over the next three to five years. “We are confident that we will be able to achieve this feat, as we offer great franchising opportunities coupled by our company’s on-going support and continual training

programmes,” says Colyn. “We are there to support our clients every step of the way.” Imbalie Beauty is currently also in the process of renovating its beauty salons, and in keeping with the latest trends and technologies will be offering Alma skin renewal and hair removal services as well as Vajazzle.com Swarovski crystal body art. Isabel Fisher, International sales director of NSI International, who was present at the event all the way after coming from

Ice Box Colors makes successful debut appearance Ice Box Colors received considerable attention at the Professional Beauty Show 2012 in Johannesburg. Working in accordance with the latest global fashion and colour trends, including the season’s most recent showstoppers, the professional developers of the line have created ranges to tantalise and excite. There is a colour for every need or occasion, ranging from sheers and pastels to holographic and neon varieties. Moving across the colour spectrum, the introductory line features a French range of soft, sheer pink, peach, lavender and gold; a Pastel range, which evokes images of sorbet on a hot summer’s day, with icy shades of pistachio, peach, mango and berry; a holographic range, with a dazzling selection of Northern Lights, City Lights, St Tropez Lights and Miami Lights; and the Neon range, which takes centre stage, combining bold matt brights with a dash of glittering pizzazz. Colours include: Tangerine Ice, Melon Ice and Lime Ice.

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One product that has already received considerable attention is Metamorphose – a photochromatic polish innovation that changes colour from pearly white to pink when exposed to sunlight. Along with the creative use of colour, it was also important for the develope r to take heed of the current demand for “greener” nail polishes, and, as such, it has created a 3-free product line that steers clear of potentially harmful ingredients in its formulations. In terms of client convenience, Ice Box Colors offers all the benefits of a top-quality product range: quick-drying, long-wearing and chip-resistant. Ice Box Colors is available in a 15ml and convenient 7ml size. The 15ml has a state-of-the-art broader rounded brush for slick application.

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2013

Left to right: Isabel Fisher (NSI International) with Sally Harvey, Yolanda Knott and Charlene Dickson (Professional Beauty).

the USA, was impressed with the service standards that Imbalie Beauty sets in SA: “I am delighted to see the passion and commitment that

this company has to the NSI brand, and this filters through right from the CEO to the technicians that work with the product on a daily basis.”

Professional Beauty India receives notable praise

The Professional Beauty expo held in Delhi from December 2-4 has been acclaimed as India’s leading trade exhibition. In its first year, organisers focused mainly on serving Indian businesses attracting a total of 4000 people, including trade buyers, students, exhibitors’ staff and guests. Visitors came from across the sub-continent, with hotel and spa groups coming from all over the country to share in the experience. A total of 1100 distributors visited the show to see what was new, Professional Beauty MD, Mark Moloney, said that he was pleased with what had been

delivered, which was proof to the Indian customer that the show will grow, as they are set to pull in the locals and also introduce national pavilions from Germany, Turkey, Korea, South Africa and the UK. Exhibitors gave the show much praise, saying that the professionalism and promotion was the best they’ve seen, and that they were delighted to be associated with the event, as India now has its first real trade show. Professional Beauty will have two other events in India this year, in Delhi and Mumbai from June 2 - 3.


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ĂŽ

BUSINESS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

The importance

of SOPs

A personalised Standard Operating Procedure manual is a dynamic asset to any business and offers a great tool for capturing the spa or salon’s intellectual property. Mimmie Lancaster reports

I

n a recent customer survey carried out by Intelligent Spas, spagoers listed their complaints or disappointments when visiting a spa. Seven out of the eight top complaints could very easily be solved by having a SOP manual in place and by following it.

Common misconceptions The owner feels that by hiring only qualified staff, the therapists should know what they are doing. This might be true of their level of therapy, but unfortunately not all members are trained or perform their duties at the same level. Some feel that their facility is too small, so they have no need. Often the smaller businesses feel it the hardest when a key employee leaves. The manual will therefore make it far easier for the person having to fulfil this role if the salon or spa has a strict set of policies in place. There are those who are concerned that their staff will not like following all the rules and regulations. This might be true, but human beings do like structure and routine, and the SOP will do exactly that, provide a structured, safe environment with a familiar routine. Most find it too time-consuming

to draw up an SOP. A spa consultant, however, can assist in drawing up a manual, or it can be a task given to your staff as a team effort to document each procedure. Management can then refine it and add other specifics.

The facts The truth is that this manual has the potential to minimise customer complaints, leading to more satisfied clients who come back. Another important factor to consider is that SOPs reduce interruptions to managers by employees. The SOP is possibly the best tool to allow for easy continuation when key staff members leave. Although the loss of a key staff member will have a negative impact on any business, the impact can be minimised by having all policies and procedures documented, as well as ensuring that they are adhered to at all times. The SOP manual can maximise the sales value of your business. The state of your SOP will play a major part in the sale of your business, as the new owner will have the ability to assume control and manage the business successfully. The SOP also controls the risk of litigation. This will protect you and your staff in the event of anything going wrong and the client taking legal action.

Staff, once hired, should be given a full orientation and tour of the facility as well as the SOP manual to work through.

Be consistent The SOP manual will not only ensure best practice, but encourage all members of staff to work towards, and maintain, a high level of professionalism. Staff, once hired, should be given a full orientation and tour of the facility as well as the SOP manual to work through. This saves a lot of time on the training side and also assists in getting the new employee up to standard quickly. Any new member of staff should be given a position/ responsibility description, including physical requirements, upon hire and all the specifics should be documented in the SOP. This makes disciplining, if needed, so much easier, especially where sensitive or personal issues need to be addressed.

Update in progress A good idea is to discuss the treatment protocols from time to time during staff meetings and to allow all members of staff to give their input prior to updating the manual. It is advisable to update your manual annually in order to keep it up to date and to keep performance levels at their optimum. The SOP manual should be seen as a guideline to be improved upon, as the spa and beauty industry grows and new areas of growth are identified.

Where do you start? I have included a contents list which is often used as a basis to start or update a spa/salon’s current manual. I trust you will derive benefit from this too. >

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2013

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BUSINESS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

contents list for SOP manual: 1. INTRODUCTION 1.1 1.2

The spa philosophy & concept Spa organogram/ who are the team?

2.

CLIENT EXPERIENCE

2.1 2.2 2.3 2.3.1 2.3.2 2.4 2.5

Spa menu request Follow-up calls Scheduling of spa appointments Individual clients Group bookings Confirmation letter Credit card authorisation form and bank details 2.6 Cancellation policy 2.7 Spa customer experience 2.8 Meet & greet 2.9 Spa facility orientation 2.10 Treatment room set-up 2.11 Pre-treatment consultation 2.12 Treatment procedures 2.12.1 Skin care treatment procedures 2.12.2 Body care treatment procedures 2.12.3 Spa essentials treatment procedures 2.13 Post-treatment procedure 2.14 Check-out procedure 2.15 Late arrival procedure 2.17 Client treatment reactions 2.18 Bad guest experience

3.

SPA OPERATIONAL PROCEDURES

3.1 Opening & closing procedures 3.1.1 Front desk assistants 3.1.2 Spa therapists & nail technician 3.1.3 Housekeeping attendants 3.1.4 Hair stylists 3.2 Staff scheduling/rosters 3.3 Contact details 3.3.1 Staff contact details 3.3.2 Vendor contact details 3.3.3 Facility contact information 3.4 Emergency safety procedures 3.5 Linen procedures 3.5.1 Linen handling procedure 3.5.2 Linen room 3.6 Lost property 3.7 Repairs & maintenance procedure 3.8 Mystery guest procedure 3.8.1 Mystery guest questionaire 3.9 Hygiene procedure 3.10 Key control 3.11 Locker key procedure 3.12 Collateral material procedure 3.13 Spa café venue hire procedure 3.14 Housekeeping cleaning procedures 3.15 Florist

4. HR PROCEDURES 4.1 4.1.1 4.2 4.3 4.4 4.5

Conditions of employment Job descriptions Disciplinary code Performance management Staff advances Staff purchases

4.6 Certificate of service 4.7 Disciplinary discussion 4.7.1 Notice to attend disciplinary discussion 4.7.2 Counselling record 4.8 Disciplinary hearing 4.8.1 Notice to attend a disciplinary enquiry 4.8.2 Record of disciplinary enquiry 4.8.3 Disciplinary appeal form 4.9 Employee file checklist 4.10 Employee personal detail form 4.11 Grievance report 4.12 Leave application form 4.13 Expense claim form

5. FINANCIAL PROCEDURES 5.1 5.2 5.3 5.4 5.5 5.6 5.7 5.8 5.9

Spa orders Stock control Spa quotes Client reservations Cancellations Invoicing Cash control Therapist commission Spa unused/blank voucher control 5.10 Spa rate changes 5.11 Daily reports

6. MARKETING PROCEDURES

6.1 6.2 6.3 6.4 6.5

Spa collateral material PR & promotions Monthly newsletter Spa launches Website

7. JOB DECRIPTIONS 7.1 7.1.1 7.1.2 7.2

Receptionist job description Main responsibilities Operational Body care therapist’s job description 7.2.1 Main responsibilities 7.2.2 Operational 7.3 Job description: Spa manager 7.3.1 Main responsibilities 7.3.2 Financial 7.3.3 Operational 7.3.4 Administration 7.3.5 Training 7.3.6 General 7.3.7 Employee handling 7.4 Job description: Assistant spa manager 7.4.1 Main responsibilities 7.4.2 Operational 7.4.3 General responsibilities 7.4.4 Supportive functions 7.5 Skin care therapist’s job description 7.5.1 Main responsibilities: 7.5.2 Operational

7.6 7.6.1 7.6.2 7.7 7.7.1 7.7.2 7.7.3 7.8 7.9 7.10

Hairstylist job description Main responsibilities Operational Spa attendant job description Main responsibilities Operational Other responsibilities Nail technician job description Employee use of facilities Grooming policies of hosts/ hostesses /therapists 7.11 Gratuity 7.12 What to do when sexually harassed. 7.13 Management consistency 7.13.1 Manning levels 7.13.2 Meeting planners 7.14 Sales incentives 7.15 Spa rules regarding children 7.16 Certifications 7.18 Commission structure 7.19 Staff training 7.20 Conditions of employment 7.21 Disciplinary code 7.22 Grievance 7.23 Performance management 7.24 Staff advances 7.25 Staff advance application form 7.26 Staff purchases 7.27 Code of conduct 7.28 Leave form 7.29 Employee personal details form 7.30 Certificate of service 7.31 Notice to attend a disciplinary discussion 7.32 Counselling record 7.33 Notice to attend a disciplinary enquiry 7.34 Record of disciplinary enquiry 7.35 Disciplinary appeal form

8. EMPLOYEE FILE CHECKLIST

8.1 8.2

Grievance report Expenses /Reimbursement form

9. CONFIRMATION LETTER

10. CLIENT CONSULTATION CARD

11. GROUP BOOKING TEMPLATE

12. OPERATING SYSTEMS MANUAL

13. STAFF WELCOME PACK CONTAINS THE FOLLOWING:

13.1

Welcome letter

13.2 Employee handbook 13.3 SOP 13.4 Orientation manual PB

Mimmie Lancaster is the owner of Symmetry World, which offers customised consulting and interior design services in all areas from spa planning, development, treatment menus or a simple revamp. Contact her on 082 653 5022 or email: mimmie@symmetryworld.co.za

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Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2013


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Healthy Ageing@Dr Gys

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Society’s current state of health There is little doubt that the Anti-ageing wave has become a force of note on the planet, with the younger generations X and Y the main, almost obsessed, contributors to this momentum. Dr Gys du Plessis elaborates

T

his is very understandable in view of mankind becoming older, and cancer, heart disease, arthritis, degenerative conditions of the brain, obesity and insulin resistance increasing almost epidemically in numbers by the day. Human life expectancy has risen by over 40 years since 1990, with many futuristic projections claiming that 120 years is not far off. In the UK, 25 years ago, there were 660 000 people aged 85 years and older. This has grown to 1.4 million today and will reach 3.6 million by 2035! The sad and disturbing reality is that the average 75- to 100-year-old person does not depict a picture of good health and vitality. Healthy ageing is not just one of those things that are purely based on good genes and luck. The factors involved in accelerating ageing to which we are exposed today are mostly lifestyle and environmental issues. By becoming conscious of them, we can drastically alter the way our genes express themselves and how our bodies will respond and eventually age. The science of ageing has exploded in the last decade and clearly demonstrates that increased inflammation in the human body leads to accelerated ageing. The inflammation, in turn, results from a higher load of free radicals roaming the body, with ensuing oxidative stress. One of the main sources of free radicals today is the more than 100 000 artificial toxins present on our planet which have appeared since World War II. This means that, in just over 75 years we have gone from a clean to a toxin-infested environment. Coupled with this, stress has soared in modern times, and the average time we spend sleeping has dropped by two hours in the same period. This pushes and drives up the levels of stress hormones like cortisol in the body, further fuelling the inflammation fire in our bodies.

We sadly cannot just rely on a healthy diet of vegetables and fruit alone anymore, because modern agricultural soil shows a drop of up to 69% in essential nutrients and minerals. Add to this the heavy use of pesticides on crops today and the uncertainties surrounding Genetically Modified crops, and the picture darkens even further. We can no longer rely just on modern medicine to keep us healthy till the end, because prevention and maintenance is way more important than high-tech emergency repairs. On the prevention side a massive body of research already exists proving that regular exercise, a colourful plate of food, little sugar and refined foods, and a healthy body weight to be crucial in slowing down ageing considerably. We can do so much to become more aware of the toxins in our environment and to avoid most of it by changing to drinking filtered water and using organic detergents and cleansing agents in our households. I am very aware that Anti-ageing is

The factors involved in accelerating ageing today are mostly lifestyle and environmental issues.

the popular term, but I feel we should rather focus our endeavours on Healthy Ageing and what we should do to become healthier the older we get. This has been proven to be very possible in a study on 80-100-year-old people published in the New England Journal of Medicine. The topic of Healthy Ageing is huge, and, without being disrespectful to a complicated science, I would like to make three points, which I feel are the unsaid bucket list for health of anyone in advanced age: • A healthy brain with good memory and sharp mental functioning; • Strong muscles and healthy joints keeping us mobile; • A firm, smooth, bright skin maintaining attractiveness. Achieving this in the greater number of people on the planet will take a drastic effort. People need to be educated to raise consciousness about lifestyle modification and the use of nutraceuticals (supplements, vitamins, minerals). My dream for this article in the future is for it to become a forum where we can discuss your questions and concerns and together coexplore and create ways to achieve Healthy Ageing for all of us and our children. PB If you would like to ask Dr Gys du Plessis a question please email the editor at sally@probeauty.co.za. Two questions and answers will be published in the following issue of the magazine.

Dr Gys du Plessis has a keen interest in Holistic, Integrative and Aesthetic Medicine. He has founded and led two Holistic Centers in South Africa and is the medical director for Nimue Bioscience International. To touch base with Dr Gys visit: www.facebook.com/drgys1

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Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2013


how does MesotherM work? Mesotherm uses three different treatment procedures: 1. Removal of the stratum corneum to stimulate the production of new cells in the basal layer of the skin. 2. Heating of the dermis performed by the radio frequency, microneedling and vacuum, resulting in the increased elasticity of the tissues. 3. Mesotherapic cocktails channelled in the skin through electroporation technique to ensure a deep, subcutaneous penetration of active ingredients sensitive to electro conduction, resulting in injection free mesotheraphy.

Technolase cc

Tel: 012 349 1750 • Fax: 012 349 1752 Email: technola@mweb.co.za www.technolase.co.za

MesotherM indications: • Superficial and deep wrinkles • Hyperkeratosis • Sun-damaged skin • Small wrinkles • Acne and skin impurities • Enlarged pores • Rough and thickened skin • Hyperpigmentation marks • Stretch marks • Acne scars • Hair loss


Î

SPA NEWS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

The Spa at the Oyster Box voted ‘Best Spa in Africa’ The Spa at the Oyster Box has garnered yet another international spa accolade as ‘Favourite Spa in Africa’, in the 2012 SpaFinder Wellness Readers’ Choice Crystal Awards.

Following hot on the heels of being awarded ‘Country Winner: Best Luxury Hotel Spa’ and ‘Country Winner: Best Luxury Wellness Spa’ in the World Luxury Spa Awards 2012, The Spa at the Oyster Box has received yet another international spa accolade. The Spa is a member of Leading Spas of The World. The Readers’ Choice Awards

validate the winning spas in the various categories as members of ‘an elite category of most-admired, best of class properties around the globe.’

Stress, anti-ageing and dehydration named top spa concerns The 2013 UK Spa Trend Report has named stress and anti-aging as top client concerns, with dehydration heading up the list of skin problems treated by spa therapists during the past 12 months. The rise in dehydrationrelated issues has led to an increase in the number of professional treatments and products available to specifically address the problem. Stress and anxiety, particularly seen in female customers, have driven demand for relaxation rooms and sleep spaces within spas. As such, facilities, including veiled tepidariums, waterbeds and outdoor hanging pods, have been introduced in greater numbers over the past year. According to the report, treatments utilising uplifting, revitalising and anxietyreducing ingredients

– including spirulina and ginger, lemon and eucalyptus essential oils – are set to enjoy increased demand throughout 2013. Free-of-charge ‘use of facilities’ deals continue to prove popular with budgetconscious spa clients. To target this demographic, the report highlights the trend for businesses to offer packages of skincare products alongside these ‘DIY spa journeys’ to drive revenue. Wellness is another area set for growth as apothecarystyle brands in particular look to offer spas complete health, fitness and nutrition programmes. Compiled by skincare brand Comfort Zone, the 2013 UK Spa Trend Report gathers information from 800 spa therapists, managers and directors throughout the UK using questionnaires, workshops, conference programmes and interviews.

The awards are bestowed by thousands of ‘wellnesssavvy’ consumers and travel agents from around the world, who vote in an annual poll.

According to the organisers, this year’s competition was ‘the fiercest yet, with more votes than any other year in the Awards’ history.

Entries for Professional Beauty SA Awards open soon Entering the Professional Beauty SA Awards provides your business with invaluable feedback. It not only rewards the most inspirational salons and spas, the most innovative and supportive employees, and the most impressive therapist that are leading the industry forward, but also provides each of the businesses that enter the opportunity to evaluate all aspects of their service. This, in turn, helps to uplift the standards of the industry, and provide worthwhile publicity, both locally and abroad, thus creating greater consumer interest. Professional Beauty has made it extremely easy to enter – all you need to do is visit www. probeauty.co.za and submit all the criteria set forward online. You can log in and out until

you are completely satisfied before submitting your final entry. Please take time to make your initial entry as concise as possible – do not leave out any sections, as this can make a drastic difference to whether you make it through to the next round or not. If you are unsure of anything do not be shy to phone our offices on 011 781 5970 and ask the relevant questions. Entrants and finalists who reach the second round will be involved in a rigorous judging process, which includes visits by industry experts and mystery shoppers to effectively evaluate performance across a number of set criteria. This is your opportunity to shine. Those who have won categories in the past are so proud to be able to display their Professional Beauty trophy for all their visitors to see. It could be you! Entries open: 18 Feb 2013.

Winner of 2012's award for Best Therapist was Elansa Webster.

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2013

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SPA FOCUS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Enhanced beauty Mo Beautiful You – the first Babor Beauty Spa – recently opened at The Wedge Shopping Centre in Morningside. Sally Harvey caught up with owner Molebogeng Mhlanga to hear the inside story

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uring her time working for Soft Sheen Carstens as an advertising planner, Molebogeng Mhlanga fell in love with the beauty industry. Little did she know that a few years down the line she would be leaving the fast-paced, deadline-driven world of advertising to open her very own beauty spa. “After giving birth to my second son, I decided that I was ready for a change in my life. I was drawn to everything that was beauty, and decided to take some time off to research the market,” she says. Feeling a bit disheartened after two business opportunities fell through, she

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Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2013

continued to persevere, searching for the right location and brand that would ensure long-term business success. “This is when I was introduced to Babor. Not only did the brand itself represent all I was looking for and more, but the company also provided me with the most amazing support, guiding me every step of the way on what has been an absolutely incredible journey thus far,” says Molebogeng. “Finding the perfect location also came with its set of challenges,” she says. “We needed to be centrally positioned in an upmarket area without being too close to any potential

competition – an almost impossible feat, but, as luck would have it, a space within The Wedge Shopping Centre in Morningside became available. It all boils down to being in the right place at the right time with the right contacts.” “I decided to call the spa “Mo Beautiful You”, as every woman is already beautiful – the spa just has the ability to enhance that beauty,” adds Molebogeng. “We opened on September 20. Well-groomed men dressed in tuxedos were employed to hand out long-stemmed red roses and complementary massage vouchers to ladies visiting the centre or sitting


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SPA FOCUS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

in their cars at the nearby traffic intersections. They were coached to say: ‘because you are beautiful, we would like to make you more beautiful.’ The response has been phenomenal; creating awareness, bringing new business to our spa, and spreading the word.” Molebogeng wants to make sure that her clients always have a superb experience at her spa, from the moment they walk in the door. “I have achieved this by creating a warm, welcoming ambience, offering an enticing treatment menu, and selecting the right staff, who have chosen to work at my spa because they love what they do and have the ability to truly touch the clients,” she says. “I am also at the spa at all times to support and grow my business,” adds Molebogeng.” I believe in a hands-on approach. I also believe in measuring

I believe in a hand-on approach. I also believe in measuring my clients’ satisfaction against my own high standards for quality and service, my clients’ satisfaction against my own high standards for quality and service, and therefore request that my staff perform regular treatments on me in order to ensure that my clients always experience the ultimate in luxury and superior service.” Although Molebogeng does not come from a beauty background, you can see she has a head for business and a passion to learn all she can. “I am eager and willing to put my heart into this business in order to make it a success,” she says. She is committed to attend all product training along with her staff, as well as beauty-related conferences and

exhibitions to increase her knowledge and stay up to date with the latest trends and developments in the industry. PB

INSIDE INFO: Opened: 20th September 2012 Design Director/Spa Consultant: Vanessa Preston / Sheila OtienoOsanya & Leigh-Anne Wagner Marketing Manager: Molebogeng Mhlanga Spa Manager: Nicole Amory Number of therapists: 3 Interior Designer: Vanessa Preston Brands stocked: Babor Number of treatment rooms: 4 m2 of spa: 94 Location: The Wedge Shopping Centre, Rivonia Road, Morningside Facilities: 3 pedi lounge stations and 2 mani stations Contact: 011 783 1056

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2013

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SPA FOCUS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Holistic wellbeing Africology has partnered with an executive wellbeing initiative, Exec Care, to deliver a holistic approach to wellbeing, one that successfully integrates the science of spa with medical intervention. Sally Harvey takes a closer look

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hen I first heard about this novel, integrated approach to wellbeing, I was intrigued to find out more. And, I have to say that these two facilities have really connected, delivering a first-class, specialised intervention for busy executives (and non-executives) that really need to optimise and sustain physical, mental and emotional wellbeing. On the Exec Care side, the experience of medical evaluation has been deformalised. Leading interior designers were commissioned to create an environment where executives can relax and unwind in luxury and comfort. All the personal touches have been taken care of, from a refreshment and relaxation zone to a Wi-Fi zone, change rooms and shower facilities. The same experience naturally flows through to the

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Africology Spa with all the amenities at hand accompanied by the heavenly aromas of essential oils – a known signature of this natural brand. Not only is there collaboration between the experienced professionals at Exec Care (biokineticist, medical doctor, dietician, psychologist, and sports scientist) when it comes to providing the executive with his or her comprehensive wellbeing assessment, but this is also carried through to the spa, by developing treatments that can complement and enhance the medical interventions at play. These include IV magnesium supplementation or Vitamin C, combined with the appropriate facial to optimise a sense of rejuvenation and

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2013

youthfulness, or Vitamin B complex administered after a massage to realign the body. I myself experienced an Immune Boosting Wrap and IV drip – gaining the combined benefit of therapy with vitamin and mineral intravenous supplementation. For both partners, professional service and attention are at the top of the priority list. Bookings for the executive assessments are limited to 15 people per day, ensuring that each individual or family unit receives the best, personalised attention. The ultimate goal - providing an on-going wellness approach through beneficial spa treatments, supported by sound medical advice.

“spa treatments are specifically tailored to the needs of the customer, fusing a spa experience with a more medical approach”


Renchia Droganis, founder and CEO of Africology, is well pleased with this partnership: “The body is a complex entity that has to deal with a lot of internal and external stress factors, so to achieve balance and harmony within body and mind, we need to follow a holistic approach that takes into account a variety of aspects, such as diet, hormonal imbalances and blood analysis. That is why we started exploring how we could deliver spa treatments that are specifically tailored to the needs of the customer, fusing a spa experience with a more medical approach to achieve a new level of wellbeing services to the public. Partnering with Exec Care has been a great opportunity for the Africology brand to expand our spa services in this area, and we are very excited to see where this new venture will take us.” PB

Contact: Africology @ Exec Care on 011 341 8911

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2013

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SPA FOCUS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Spa Trends 2013 The nweeds of the consumer are constantly changing and evolving. It is therefore vitally important to keep abreast of the latest trends within the industry. Marisa Dimitriadis announces the anticipated South African spa trends for 2013

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s the stresses of modern living increase, so too does the need for spa and wellness therapy become more important. With 10 years of massive growth behind us and still going strong, the spa and wellness industry continues to shine year after year. What needs to be taken into account, however, is that the consumer is changing, expecting more and something different. It is with the changing needs of the consumer in mind that the trends for South Africa for 2013 are announced. These trends are what will lead the industry in the coming year, and therefore, in order to continue this growth and ensure the sustainability of your spa or salon business, it is important to align your business plan for 2013 with these trends.

1

Healing naturally

A massive drive towards natural healing methods will be seen in 2013. The consumer is fighting off illness and looking for ways to assist the healing process in a natural way. The Wall Street Journal published an article by Andrea Peterson, which states that research over the past couple of years has found massage therapy to boost immune function in women with breast cancer, improve symptoms in children with asthma, and increase grip strength in patients with carpal tunnel syndrome. New research is also starting to reveal just what happens in the body after a massage. While there have long been theories about how massage works—from releasing toxins to improving circulation— these have been fairly nebulous,

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2013

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with little hard evidence. Now one study, for example, found that a single, 45-minute massage led to a small reduction in the level of cortisol (a stress hormone) in the blood; a decrease in cytokine proteins related to inflammation and allergic reactions; and a boost in white blood cells that fight infection.

2

Stress management

Stress is on the rise globally. There are different factors that trigger stress and how people react to them can vary from person to person. However, for most, the workplace is the greatest contributor in this regard. Taking proactive steps towards reducing this stress is really where most individuals and workplaces are going to be focused in 2013. A weekly or monthly massage is probably one of the most effective methods to manage stress, so find ways to introduce this treatment to corporates and get involved in a programme to assist their employees. Find research and present companies with different packages that assist in increasing productivity and decreasing absenteeism, healthcare costs and stress levels. The spa industry can have an impactful and meaningful effect on stress and how people manage it.

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SPA FOCUS

5

I choose a male therapist

This is an interesting trend that has not made a debut in South Africa as yet. I would love to see more male therapists entering our industry and they certainly will.

6

Simpler menus

More streamlined treatment menus with less bells and whistles are in demand. The days of pages and pages of treatment menus are certainly numbered – the consumer wants more basic services that are easy to understand and have measured results and value for money. true spa experience won’t be delivered unless proper rest and relaxation is combined with the treatments. Maximum treatment benefit and memory-making spa visits need to be married with rest and relaxation.

3

Clean the Teen

Watch this space, as 2013 is the year of the teenage skin. Teenagers are becoming more and more aware of the need to look after their skins and keep them super-clean and bacteriafree. Treatments and products for Teens will be a hit as we move into a year of increased education and awareness.

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Anti-ageing for Him

Men are becoming more aware of the need to take care of their physical appearance, whether for personal or work-related reasons, or both. As with women, ageing is moving to the top of the priority list for 2013. So promote male-specific anti-ageing treatments and pull out the anti-ageing cream and eye cream – this is the year to increase his two-product skin care regime to three or four.

4

Skin correction

Pigmentation, wrinkles, sagging skin, spots and skin texture is what it’s all about in terms of facial skincare for 2013. More so than ever before, the consumer is looking for measureable results, especially in relation to skin conditions that they want to correct. The consumer will be more educated and research the treatments before just taking the therapist’s word for it, and, in fact, starting a testimonial campaign as part of your social networking marketing is not only a good idea, but imperative. Consumers want the proof and they want to know that what they are doing has worked for others.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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More massage

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Comfortable not cold

Spa design is taking a turn from a colder more minimalistic design to something more comforting and simple. So, say goodbye to the bling and hello to the clean, simple yet comfortable world of interior design.

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Relaxation and rest

The spa will need to find creative ways to include relaxation and rest as part of a treatment or package. The

Ask any consumer what their favourite part of a facial or pedicure treatment is and they will no doubt answer: “the massage”. In fact, massage is probably in your top five treatments, and I am sure that every one of your top five has a massage element as part of the treatment. It really is a no-brainer – give the consumers more of what they want. So for 2013, I challenge and urge you to make a big deal about massage, as this really is going to separate the good treatments from the great and memorable ones. PB

Marisa Dimitriadis is founder and owner of The Spa Consultants. E-mail her at: marisa@thespaconsultants.co.za Tel: 011 312 7840

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Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2013


Calgel www.cal-mo.com 011 624 1101

(c) 2011 MOGA•BROOK / Nails by Suzie Taga Produced by MOGA•BROOK


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TREATMENT REVIEWS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Skin booster The !QMS SK-Alpha facial treatment is an ideal pick-meup, stimulating dormant collagen fibres, plumping, hydrating, detoxifying and oxygenating the skin. It is recommended for all skin types, either as an alternative to the client’s regular !QMS facial, or as a once-off booster treatment prior to evening events, weddings and parties. It is particularly beneficial for skin suffering from poor circulation and smoker’s skin. The activity of this treatment lies in the heating and cooling effects of two masks – the SK-Alpha Thermo Mask and its cooler counterpart, the Algae Mask. After the skin has been thoroughly cleansed and prepared with the dual action of AHA (Exfoliant Fluid) and enzyme peeling, the SK Alpha Revital Mask is sparingly applied to the skin. It contains cinnamon bark which stimulates the circulation

and gives an immediate heating sensation. To activate further ingredients and intensify its effect, aluminium thermoregulation foil is applied over a layer of moistened gauze. A pleasant feeling of warmth continues for approx. 10-15 minutes until the mask is removed with cold water. The soothing experience of cold water on the skin is well complemented, with the application of the cold Algae Mask, which, once removed, can also be used an effective facial diagnostic for the therapist. Subsequently Day Collagen is applied, leaving the skin optimally hydrated and plumped. This is followed by an appropriate skincare product. After the treatment was complete and I had a good look at my skin in the mirror, I was well pleased. The skin was noticeably plumper, smoother and wonderfully radiant.

Contact: !QMSMediCosmetics on 011 022 1658

Smart solutions Genesis Biosystems recently introduced its DermaFrac system. As an excellent alternative to fractional laser treatments, this system features a combination of technologies that can effectively infuse topical actives, such as anti-ageing peptides, skin lighteners, hyaluronic acid moisturisers and acne treatment solutions, to the dermal layer of the skin. At the same time this treatment creates a controlled wound-healing process encouraging the production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid on the surface of the skin. After one treatment, I experienced an improvement in elasticity, smoothness and radiance of the skin. Best results will be seen if the treatment is performed every two weeks for a series of six treatments. Thereafter maintenance treatments are recommended every one to two months. The best part about this treatment is there is no pain, bleeding or downtime, as the hundreds of microneedles have been precisely calibrated to penetrate

just below the dermal-epidermal junction and just above capillaries and nerve endings. The hand piece uses a vacuum to pull the skin into contact with these microneedles, creating micro-channels, and simultaneously infusing topicals directly to the all-important DE junction of the skin. In addition, the viscosity and molecular size of the Dermafrac topical solutions have been specially formulated to deliver greater penetration. For even better results, as I myself experienced, the Dermafrac system

has the option to include additional treatment modalities, such as microdermabrasion and LED therapy. This enables one to truly customise the treatment according to the client’s specific concerns and preferences. Not only can this system be administered by an aesthetician, but also it does not break the bank in terms of initial outlay for the salon business, and, in turn, the treatments remain more affordable for the client.

Contact: Sternlaser on 011 783 3110

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2013

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Î

TREATMENT REVIEWS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

All eyes on you Upselling has been advocated by many top beauty professionals, as it not only adds to the guest experience, but also increases that very important bottom line. The problem, however, is that many salons or spas do not always have the tools at hand to effect this positive change in one’s business. This is where Thalgo has seen a gap in the market, and has developed an Anti-Ageing Eye Treatment that can

be upsold as part of an existing treatment, booked as a standalone treatment, or even offered as a quick, add-on treatment while clients are unwinding in the relaxation area. The treatment itself commenced with a manual massage of the Thalgo Collagen Eye Concentrate, promoting the drainage mechanism and lymph circulation. The Hylauronic Eye Patch Mask or Collagen Eye Gel was then applied. After 10 minutes, my eyes felt less fatigued with improved hydration. I also enjoyed the relaxing fragrances of green iris, wood and musk. It was now time to experience the Eye Massage Mask. I was intrigued by the new technology, offering five different therapies to treat, and, at the same time, relax the client. The three different massage techniques target certain acupuncture pressure points and stimulate the eye area by vibration

to assist in draining, decongesting and plumping, while easing tension and fatigue. The Eye Massage Mask also includes the diffusion of gentle heat (three temperature levels) across the eye area. This adds to the feeling of complete relaxation, and is supported with music therapy, enabling you to immerse yourself in the Thalgo world of relaxation. After 15 minutes, the mask was removed and the therapist applied Thalgo Silicium Cream to redefine the eye contours, and reduce puffiness and dark circles. What an amazing treatment to add to any menu. I was impressed with the concept, the relaxing effect the treatment had on my being as a whole, and, of course, the smoothing, re-plumping, and uplifting effect around my frequently tired-looking eyes – the ideal pick-me-up, especially for people on the go!

Contact: Thalgo on 011 880 3850

Three-step skin rejuvenation Developed and manufactured in the UK by Chromogenex, a leader in laser technology, Fusion SLR (Sonic Laser Rejuvenation) incorporates the three essential principles of an effective and sustained skin rejuvenation programme: exfoliation, hydration and nourishment, and tissue regeneration. Following a consultation with Chantal of Divine Laser Clinic, my skin was cleansed and then prepared by exfoliating dead skin cells from the surface using the Fusion diamond handpiece. I felt only a gentle scrubbing sensation during the exfoliation. Next Hyaluron gel was applied to the skin for infusion. The Ultrasound handpiece was applied to the skin and vibrated the skin cells to produce channels through which the Hyaluron could penetrate deep into the skin. Using the latest acoustic wave technology, it was a safe, painless way of needle-free trans-dermal delivery. With age the level of hyaluron in skin decreases, resulting in a loss of volume, plumpness, elasticity and the formation of lines and wrinkles. By replenishing hyaluron, the volume increases, the skin is rehydrated and

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results in an effective long-lasting plumping of the skin. Activation and tightening is induced by an application of low-level lasers. This light activates the hyaluron gel and gently heats the dermis, stimulating the production of collagen and elastin to provide a lifting effect

on the skin. The treatment is completed with the application of Ultrox, a high-potency peptide cream which forms part of the DermaGenex skincare range recommended for home use. A big plus of the experience is that, as promoted, it was indeed painless, with only a slight tingling experienced during the ultrasound and laser steps. Treatment takes about one hour, and, with no downtime or pain, provides an alternative

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2013

to wrinkle reduction injectables and dermal fillers. My tired, dull-looking skin was transformed and felt super-hydrated and much smoother. Fusion SLR is suitable as a one-time therapy session for that special occasion which demands instant and remarkable results, and can, therefore, be a great revenue generator. To truly ensure a return on investment, a client should be recommended to take a six-treatment package over six weeks, and then continue with maintenance sessions which can be spaced further apart. The versatile Fusion SLR laser can be used for treating fine lines and wrinkles, pigmentation, dehydrated skin, enlarged and congested pores, loss of dermal volume and support, acne grade 1 - 3, as well as general skin health maintenance.

Contact: Chromogenex on 011 079 4242


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Faster An enhanced 2 Hz repetition rate enables you to treat more patients, faster. Dual Wavelength Delivery System Single Lightweight ergonomic handpiece delivering both 755 nm and 1064 nm wavelengths for ultimate treatment convenience.

Solta Medical reaffirms its innovative leadership in the aesthetic industry, with Clear + Brilliant™, a fractional laser-based system effectively addressing the need for preventive, less invasive treatments. Demanded by clients of all ages, enjoy a minimal downtime procedure that you and your clients can afford.

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6, 8, 10, 12, 15, and 18 mm spot sizes are anatomically appropriate and offer greater fluence delivery capabilities.

Redesigned to help you more easily select and save treatment parameters. Variable Pulse Duration

λ2 Specialty Delivery System™ GentleMax Pro also offers a dual wavelength Specialty Delivery System option with 1.5 / 3 / 3x10 mm spots for vascular and pigmented lesions.

Microseconds to milisecond pulse durations provides superior results and safety when treating pigmented and vascular lesionson various skin types.

“Given the tight economy… the new aesthetic trend will be toward how LITTLE someone can get done and achieve a refreshed, more youthful version of themselves.” (Trends in Aesthetic Medicine for 2011 International Association for Physicians in Aesthetic Medicine)

Clear + Brilliant arms you with the power to prevent the unwanted signs of aging

“When it comes to offering fast and effective laser hair removal,every specification matters. The dual wavelength of the GentleMax Pro allows us to treat a wider range of patients with one device. Due to the industry’s largest spot size 18mm, tremendous fluence options and pulse width range, The GentleMax Pro gives a whole new meaning to high-speed laser hair removal. ”

User friendly + convenient + safe

Ellen H. Frankel, M.D., Dermatologist and Medical Director at Rejuvaderm Medi Spa

• Visibly illuminated skin • Uniform tone and radiance • Renewed soft and smooth texture • Reactivated brilliance of youthful skin

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FREEZE YOUR FAT OFF with The procedure is performed on both men and women under medical supervision. It uses an advanced tissue cooling technology to target and naturally eliminate fat cells without damaging the skin. The treatment takes an hour per area treated. No needles; incisions; anesthesia, pain medication or recovery time! DON’T BE FOOLED BY CHEAP IMITATORS WHO CLAIM TO HAVE FDA APPROVAL & OFFER SAFE CRYOLIPOLYSIS

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milk & honey

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our n ew o s h n opp www i ng s -line .milk i t e s and olutions. c rece ive a o.za 5% d isco unt

The Milk Solutions range is available in a variety of fragrances, as well as retail and cost effective professional sizes.*

9 Cassia Street Morningside, Sandton Tel: 011 784 0376 • Cell: 083 269 2076 karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za

www.spaandsalonsolutions.co.za

0% paraben, 0% mineral oil, 0% propylene glycol, 0% phthalat, 0% silicone, 0% PEG, NO animal testing - only human skin trials for best results.

Marine face and body skin care with NATURAL extracts’ located in Brittany France right in the middle of the largest seaweed field in Europe. ALGOLOGIE is part of the development of seaweeds with the CEVA technical research centre accredited in Europe ARE YOU IN NEED OF CHEMICAL PEELS!!! that gives instantaneous results that combats and repairs skin problems. EG: Acne, Scars, Anti-Ageing, Sensitive, Pigmentation and much more.

The Algologie home care prescriptive products all contain the new exclusive ALGO³ complex that has been incorporated into all the natural marine product formulations by fighting free radicals mineralises with instant and long lasting results

Centella Repairing Concentrate: Multifunction product, SOS product to improve skin appearance, reduces stretch marks. Prevents the apparition of stretch marks, Repairs post operation scars, Firms ad repairs damaged skin collagen

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Sole distribution of Algologie through:

For Trade Enquiries contact us at 011 867 6869 / 011 867 7074 Sharon – 082 446 6639 / Leandri – 079 112 9693 / Velia – 082 440 5627

visit us on: www.algologie.com


Î

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY CAPE TOWN 2013

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Everything

Beauty 2013 cape town Save the date: 17 - 18 march 2013 cape town international convention centre

A trade exhibition is the place to inspire business growth and development. It is a place to expand your knowledge, find industry innovations and network with your fellow peers. Professional Beauty CT 2013 is therefore the place to be if you are serious about your spa and salon business

P

rofessional Beauty returns to the CTITC in Cape Town on the 17th and 18th March 2013 to do serious business among beauty professionals within the Cape Town region and beyond. This year’s show is focussed on attracting a greater following with a number of interactive events: a live demonstration area will be packed by the hour with key professionals presenting the latest techniques, technologies and innovations that are turning heads around the globe. The International Spa and Medical Aesthetics conventions feature world-renowned speakers talking on a number of topical subjects that are particularly relevant to businesses in the here and now. Not to mention top exhibitors that will be showcasing over 100

Educational forums International Spa Convention Dynamic and inspiring local and international speakers will provide valuable business insights and current trends that will help to guide your business to the next level. brands. There is so much choice, so start early by registering for free at www.probeauty.co.za, have a look at what is on offer on the following pages, and plan your day to make sure you get the most out of the two days.

Show specials Don’t miss out on the promotional specials and offers exclusive to trade > visitors at this event.

Medical Aesthetics Convention Topical content, well-respected speakers and live demonstrations will provide delegates with upto-date knowledge of this diverse industry. For further information visit www.probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2013

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PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY CAPE TOWN 2013

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Industry innovations

American Piercing Systems will be demonstrating how ear piercing can increase both income and foot traffic into one’s business. APS systems are very easy to use, hygienic and can be used for belly and nose piercing as well as ear piercing. Aromatic Apothecary will be showcasing its range of massage oils, Roll-on relief, Scentsation and high quality burners for the spa and salon market. Beauty Hygiene will be promoting its range of sanitisers that eliminate germs, fungus and bacteria on make-up, lipstick, brushes and equipment. Beauty Hygiene products are 100% effective against common germs and bacteria. Beauty Tech will be showcasing its equipment and services. The company provides outstanding support to its clients, aiding in the development of professional, profitable businesses. Best Lasers will be presenting Alma Lasers – quality laser, light-based radiofrequency and ultrasound devices for aesthetic and medical application. Brisan will be promoting its recently acquired International brand: Pevonia Botanica – a paraben-free skin care line with organic extracts that offer clinical results, and will be launching Lumafirm list and glow range – the latest in freezedried technology that delivers instant results, promoting radiance and redefining facial contouring. The company will also be presenting JVG Make-up summer collection and the newly released smaller, portable BDR – Beauty Defect Repair – unit.

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Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2013

Decade Astethetics

American Piercing Systems

Pure Smile

Let’s see what the exhibitors have in store for you

Calgel is inviting visitors to experience product application to a nail. The company will also be showcasing its Nail Art Tip Gallery and promoting its nail art DVD and exciting education programmes. Christian Semi Permanent Eyebrow Makeup presents an eyebrow corrective tool that is waterproof and smudge resistant. It gives the illusion of perfect eyebrows in seconds. It is the perfect tool for ladies with little or no eyebrows. CSpa AromaWellness will be presenting an interactive touch table for visitors to experience all of its products. These treatments have been developed by drawing inspiration from ancient aromatherapy philosophies and modern application techniques. Its professional and retail offering is infused with essential oils and natural ingredients to create an overall sense of wellbeing.

ESP will be offering a full needs analysis and software demonstration which will guarantee you are getting the best software management solution for your salon or spa. ESP is a comprehensive management software system that is designed exclusively for the salon and spa market. It is used in over 1 800 salons, spas and wellness centres in South Africa and throughout the world. Kryolan will be displaying its latest product launches, which are available for retail, as well as pre-made palettes at discounted prices. Lay’s Beauty will be showcasing its Lay’s Tissue Oil Spray, which helps with scars and blemishes, stretch marks, sunburnt skin, wrinkles, dry and flaky skin, eczema, hair and scalp nourishing, cracked heels and cuticle repair. The company will also be displaying body creams, glycerine soaps, body lotions and 100% pure essential oils and carrier oils.


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online at www.probeauty.co.za

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY CAPE TOWN 2013

Lycon Distribution will have three wax stations for demonstrations if the different Lycon waxes, wax accessories and pre/post products.

Pure Smile will be demonstrating the benefits of its 100% natural teeth whitening system, specifically designed for beauty salons and spas.

Nailsforu will be promoting its Go Lac UV gel polish range, as well as its Black & White nailsforté conscious nail products and accessories.

Radiant Healthcare will be showcasing new and exciting products and hosting live demonstrations, allowing visitors to experience the new technologies first hand.

Nail Systems International (NSI) will be doing demonstrations on sculptured and tip overlay (acrylic and gel nails) at the show. The company will also be selling the most popular products and promoting its international training courses. Optiphi will be showcasing its professional range of products formulated with high concentrations of active ingredients to promote true skin rejuvenation, resulting in an improvement in hydration, pigmentation, skin firmness, fine lines, wrinkles and pore size.

RégimA Skin Treatments will tempt the cosmeceutical palette with additions to its already extensive cosmeceutical range consisting of over 1,000 products. The company will be offering complementary anti-ageing hand peel & heal treatments on its stand. Repêchage will be launching the New Biolight Range for pigmentation as well as its exclusive hair care range, HydraAmino 18. All treatments are based on the latest skin science with proven results and long term benefits. SalonCare will be showcasing its newly launches products, including the SalonCare Advanced Eye Cream and an Enzyme based Self Tan. Shen Mantra launches Philosophia Botanica - an all-natural skincare brand offering the finest African and Asian ingredients, Thai herbal compresses and a range of bespoke Thai Yoga Massage Training.

Beauty Hygiene

Shen Mantra

Luscious Lashes Eyelash Extensions will be demonstrating its technique for thicker, longer and naturally abundant looking eyelashes. The company’s two USA certified trainers will be available on stand to offer advice and insight on its world-class products and courses. The company offers fully comprehensive kits and courses at extremely competitive prices, enabling you to yield a greater return on investment.

SMsquared Spa & Salon Management will be giving live demonstrations of its software, from its powerful features to the ease of use of its Customer Relationship Management Software. Sparkle Cosmetics will be exhibiting brands such as Essie, Gelish, Harmony, Incici and Eclips. The company will be launching products across all brands. The Original Spraytan will be showcasing its professional sunless tanning equipment and solutions. Training salon staff in the correct spray tanning method is included with the purchase of all spray tanning systems. Thalgo La Beauté Marine will be launching its anti-ageing eye treatment. This concept, which combines advanced product formulations with equipment technology, will improve the spa or salon with a great add-on benefit for their business. With minimal capital outlay, this treatment will deliver results for the client and add value to a business’ bottom line. The company will be demonstrating the treatment on its stand. Young Nails will be demonstrating stilettos and nail art at its stand. The company’s staff will also provide valuable information on how to speed up your work and increase your profit. PB

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2013

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INGREDIENTS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Skin science The world is constantly evolving. With scientific discovery exploding over the past 50 years, the elixir of youth does not seem so far out of reach. Sally Harvey looks at ingredients that have gained notable attention among skin care formulators worldwide. Peptides Peptides are amino acid compounds which form the fundamental building blocks of all proteins. “Every peptide is a small sequence of amino acids that are combined in a very specific way – like a code for every respective protein,” says Dr Gobac of Dr Gobac Cosmeceuticals. “Peptides and proteins are an essential part of every living organism. They are present in every particle of our body, and take part within nearly every process within cells. Some proteins are hormones or  neurotransmitters, some will act as regulators of various activities, while others will be messengers to start, accelerate, decelerate, or even stop, certain biological activities,” he adds. “Scientists have managed to develop various proteins and peptides that have  become this amazing breakthrough tool,  from the fields of medicine  to nutrition, health, beauty and genetic manipulation. Some of the  developments of the use and manipulation of peptides

have changed and saved many lives. Diabetic patients, for instance, have just about the  same  life expectancy as  healthy people, due to the synthetic production of insulin, which is a protein, or rather, polypeptide  in its structure. “In the skin care industry peptides have revolutionised the way in which we stimulate the repair of damaged collagen and, therefore, rejuvenation of the skin, which, in turn, can prevent, slow down and reverse many signs of skin aging. “From about the age of 30, cells that produce new collagen for repair of damaged ones,  slow down their activity and we could almost say that they  ‘fall asleep’ as time progresses. This results in visible signs of aging, as the deterioration of the skin matrix results in the development of lines, wrinkles, folds and significantly reduced skin elasticity. By using the modern technology of peptides, we have the ability to ‘wake-up’ fibroblasts (cells that produce collagen) and start repair and, therefore, we see an >

Dr Gobac Cosmeceuticals use a variety of polypeptides, which have positive effects on the skin, from collagen production to muscle relaxation and skin water balance regulation.

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2013

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improvement of the skin matrix as well as all other structures involved. “Some peptides also have the effect of relaxing the muscles used for facial expression  without damaging their function, which, in turn, will reduce and eliminate the appearance of many lines and wrinkles. “Even though knowledge about the positive effects of peptides on anti-aging has been known in skin care for many years, the main obstacle was transepidermal delivery of peptides to deeper layers of skin. With recent developments of liposomes and microsomes as well as nanotechnology, these problems are overcome and poly-peptide effects can now be exploited to the greatest extent. “The science of polypeptides and their uses in skin care  are starting a new non-invasive era in anti-aging treatment  and we can look forward to genuine improvements, not only of our skin appearance, but also our skin health.”

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INGREDIENTS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

“The science of polypeptides and their uses in skin care are starting a new non-invasive era in anti-aging treatment” Dr Gobac cell wall toxin. In general, the doses of retinol have  limitations because we  cannot safely exceed about 20% of the maximum permissible dose of vitamin A in a cosmetic cream, so for higher doses one has to use retinyl esters. Over 90% of Retinol applied to the skin primarily becomes retinyl palmitate, and a small fraction becomes retinaldehyde, and  eventually  retinoic acid, which works on the DNA. “The effects of retinol are indistinguishable from the classic effects of retinoic acid: rejuvenation, smoothing of the skin surface, reduction of pigment blemishes, more collagen, better nourishment from an improved blood supply, thicker skin, healthier skin, and the reduction of sun spots.”

BELOW: PCA skin offers two retinol formulations incorporating time-tested 0.5% pure retinol. BELOW: Environ’s Intensive Retinol system contains a high concentration of vitamin A and bovine colostrum. It is a 3-stage stepup system to help improve the appearance of uneven skin.

skin, it has to be converted by cellular metabolism to retinoic acid that works on the DNA of about 1000 genes. This happens every single second of every hour, both day and night, so lots of vitamin A is needed just to keep the skin healthy. “Unfortunately every day as we go out into light, we destroy between 10 and 80% of the vitamin A in the skin. Without adequate doses of vitamin A the cells start malfunctioning, growing slower, developing thinner skin with malfunctioning cells, and, as a result, we get the classical signs of photo damage. Every single person on earth develops a localised deficiency of vitamin A in the sunexposed areas of the skin as result of daily sun/ light exposure. The cells manage by slowing down, making less effective epidermal cells and an impaired water-proofing barrier. Pigment marks develop and grow bigger. Collagen-destroying enzymes become rampant and the skin loses its turgor. “All the signs of photo-aging are reversed by retinoic acid activating the sluggish and dormant genes. The important message is that you can use your own skin cells to convert the cosmetic forms of vitamin A (retinol, retinyl palmitate etc, and retinaldehyde) to the effective medical form (retinoic acid) that does the actual work on the genes to make beautiful skin.”

Stem cells

Retinol

Vitamin A

“Retinol is vitamin A alcohol and the chemical name for vitamin A,” says Dr Des Fernandes of Environ. “It is the smallest molecule of the variants of vitamin A. It is unstable and, in general, products containing it should not have a shelf life longer than six months. Certain liposomes may extend the shelf life at most to 12 months. “Retinol is less aggressive than vitamin A acid (retinoic acid or tretinoin – which is a medical grade vitamin A). However, it is significantly more aggressive than vitamin A esters (the stable storage form of vitamin A, like retinyl palmitate). Retinol can only be used in relatively low doses, because at higher doses it becomes a

“Vitamin A for cosmetics is supplied at various concentrations and hence it is better to speak about the quantity of international units that a product contains rather than the percentage concentration,” says Fernandes. “A 2% cream containing vitamin A could quite easily contain half the amount of vitamin A as another cream with a different source of the raw ingredient. All vitamin A is synthetic but nature-identical, and works exactly as vitamin A. Vitamin A is utterly essential to keep cells working normally. The important point to remember is that whatever form of vitamin A is applied to the

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Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2013

ABOVE: Environ products feature vitamin A in virtually all active products of the Original, C-Quence and Beta-active range and also in most professional products. ABOVE: DermaFix uses Apple Stem Cell technology in its Powerderm and Corrective eye formulations to protect the longevity of skin stem cells. RIGHT: Skin Doctors’ Youth Cell Activating Cream uses plant stem cell technology and anti-ageing peptides to treat the signs of ageing.

“Skin stem cells are responsible for the long-term maintenance of the epidermal tissue,” says Ayesha Rajah of A & I Importers. “They are capable >


YOUR ANTI- AGEING SKIN CARE SPECIALIST Dr Gobac Cosmeceuticals invites you to become one of our elite salon/spa partners - High profit margins guaranteed - Superior professional and retail anti-ageing skin care range - Free expert in-house training and marketing support - Exciting special offers for clients and salons

ENQUIRE TODAY! www.drgobac.co.za

e-mail: info@drgobac.co.za

contact: 071 600 1813 / 082 907 9055/ 083 477 4445


Î

INGREDIENTS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

“aloe vera's many benefits include its antibiotic and anti-inflammatory action, making it an effective treatment for burns, sunburn, scarring, cuts and wounds” Sebastiaan Van der Veer of dividing and renewing themselves for long periods, which allows them to control the regeneration potential of skin tissue, conserving the integrity of the skin and preventing damage. With age, the number of skin stem cells decreases and their ability to renew becomes less effective.” Stem cells have recently become a buzz in the world of skin care. There has, however, been some marketing confusion regarding the actual stem cells being used. It needs to be noted that by no means are embryonic stem cells being used, as it is impossible to incorporate live materials into a skincare product. Developers are using plant stem cells which are said to help protect human stem cells from damage and deterioration, thus helping maintain their long term self-renewal capacity.

Vitamin C Vitamin C, the super-star antioxidant, which is also known as ascorbic acid, is found in citrus fruit. “It is a fantastic additive to any anti-ageing skincare product,” says Rajah. “It increases collagen synthesis, improves moisturisation and prevents moisture loss,

improves sun-damaged skin, reduces damage caused by free radicals and effectively fights pigmentation.” “As a cosmetic it has two important roles: as an antioxidant and as the most essential co-factor in the production of collagen,” says Fernandes. “It has some effects on the DNA and may stimulate about four genes involved in collagen production. It also has a role in reducing the pH in melanocytes, which then inhibits the formation of melanin. Maybe its most important role is to re-cycle vitamin E from inactive back into an active antioxidant state. “It is very unstable in water and in light, and is also destroyed by heat. It remains stable only for days, but fortunately it has been stabilised by being chemically combined with either magnesium or sodium and phosphate to form much more stable salts, which can last up to a year in a product.” Stable vitamin C includes: sodium ascorbyl phosphate, l-ascorbic acid and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.

Aloe vera

ABOVE: One of the key ingredients in the Harley Pre-wax Oil is aloe vera. This ingredient’s anti-bacterial and anti-viral properties provide for a more hygienic wax, while enzymes repair and condition the skin. BELOW FAR LEFT: The Moor Spa Vitamin C Mask contains vitamin C derivatives ascorbic acid and sodium ascorbyl phosphate. The latter is a highly bioavailable form of vitamin C.

“Cosmetic and alternative medicinal industries base their conviction of aloe vera’s soothing, moisturising and healing properties on the high level of polysaccharides (‘miracle sugars’) which the plant contains,” says Sebastiaan Van der Veer of Aloway Natural Health Products. “Some of the many benefits of aloe vera include: its antibiotic and anti-inflammatory action, making it an effective treatment for burns, sunburn, scarring, cuts and wounds, and for skin problems such as acne, eczema, psoriasis and dry skin. The polysaccharides in aloe vera are also anti-bacterial, anti-fungal and anti-viral. Vitamins A, C, E, B, choline, B12 and folic acid in aloe vera are responsible for the antioxidative function of neutralising free radicals.” “This ingredient also has the ability to penetrate deep into the skin for more effective results,” he adds.

Caviar “The Caviar extract comes from the roe of sturgeon fish,” says Sandra Hunter of Pevonia. “It is rich in glutamic acid, glycine, leucine, serine, arginine, and all the amino acids contained in natural collagen. >

LEFT: Vitamin C is the main ingredient in Babor’s Advanced Biogen Complex C Cream, helping to regenerate, lighten and brighten the skin. RIGHT:: Pevonia Myoxy-Caviar Timeless Repair Cream contains retinol and caviar – a powerful combination of actives that provide an effective defence against ageing.

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2013

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INGREDIENTS

It is also abundant in oligo elements: iron, magnesium, phosphorus and phospholipids, and pearl extract enriched with hyaluronic acid and polysaccharides. It is, therefore, an effective antioxidant with antiageing and hydrating benefits.” Caviar is also rich in Omega-3 fatty acids for improved skin radiance and the prevention of cellular inflammation (a leading cause of ageing). Vitamins A and E are also present in this ingredient, and are known to correct damaged skin tissue and deeply moisturise the skin, respectively. It also contains potassium and selenium that can improve dermis elasticity, and help to prevent the premature appearance of wrinkles and fine lines and the erosion of skin tissues.

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) AHAs are well known for their use in the cosmetic industry. “They are members of a food group of naturally occurring organic acids typically derived from fruits and foods,” says Rajah. “The most commonly used AHAs in skincare are glycolic acid derived from sugar cane and lactic acid derived from sour milk. Others include: malic acid (apples), citric acid (citrus fruits) and tartaric acid (grape wine). “They work by two main mechanisms of action – they are natural chemical exfoliators and potent moisturisers – capable of improving the skin’s natural ability to bind moisture by increasing glycosaminoglycan (GAG) deposition in the epidermis and dermis. The result of topical AHA use is skin normalisation – a return of the skin to “normal” moisture content and proper exfoliation rate. AHAs also assist in the treatment of pigmentation, synthesis of collagen, and treatment of acne.” “Not all AHAs are created equal,” says Faucitt. “Some are more irritating or more moisturising; some are better for breakouts and some are stronger than others. Natural AHAs are in unbuffered (without chemicals to keep them stable) formulations and tend to have a greater impact on the skin. One of the significant benefits of AHAs is that they do not increase the blood vessels in the skin like some other acids. Therefore, they do not result in redness of the face and do not exacerbate broken capillaries.”

46

ABOVE LEFT: Guinot Time Logic Age Serum contain hyaluronic acid to retain water and plump the epidermal surface. ABOVE: RegimA uses a combination of natural fruity acids in its peeling systems and treatment products. These natural acids are more easily tolerated by the skin, and offer greater therapeutic benefit. LEFT: Priori Advanced Perfecting Facial Gel consists of a combination of AHAs and vitamins to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. RIGHT: Optiphi Moisture Control Light and Moisture Control Ultra include hyaluronic acid to provide the skin with intense, lasting moisture. BELOW RIGHT: Thalgo’s Hyaluronic range uses a mediumsize hyaluronic acid for instant plumping results. It also includes Kopara, which stimulate the body’s natural production of hyaluronic acid for prolonged effects on the skin.

Hyaluronic acid Hyaluronic acid, referred to as HA, occurs naturally in the skin and is a very important component of the skin’s matrix. “HA acts as a humectant, and can hold moisture a hundred times its own weight in water – like a gel,” says Hilda Gous of Optiphi. “The molecular size is of utmost importance – the smaller the molecule the better

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2013

online at www.probeauty.co.za


INGREDIENTS

“Growth factors are complex messenger proteins that are the control mechanism for all wound healing and repair in skin that is damaged from natural aging”

FAR LEFT: RegimA Growth Factor Stimulator includes hibiscus abelmoschus – an exotic plant that targets fibroblast growth factor FGF-2 to protect against degradation caused by ageing. LEFT: JanMarini Regeneration Booster incorporates a significant combination of key technologies, such as multiple growth factors and peptides to improve the appearance of aging skin.

the penetration and longer lasting the skin hydration. “As one ages, the skin’s hyaluronic acid level declines. It is vitally important to help moisturise the skin by adding product containing hyaluronic acid to your daily routine, as this also helps to maintain an optimal skin barrier function and overall skin health.”

Growth factors Growth factors are complex messenger proteins that allow communication between cells in the body. They are the control mechanism for all wound healing and repair in skin that is damaged from natural aging. As we age, our bodies produce lower levels of natural growth factors resulting in a breakdown of collagen.

Over the past decade, universities have been researching and found that by supplementing the skin with topical growth factors can enhance the natural repair processes of skin aging. The best known are: Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF), Fibroblast Growth Factor (FGF) and Vascular Endothelial Growth Factor (VEGF). PB


maternity skin care & mama’s touch™ spa treatments high performance body care & bootcamp ™ spa treatments

high protein face care & face fitness facial ®

www.poisebrands.co.za

mamamio@poisebrands.co.za 083 706 6066

www.facebook.com/poisesouthafrica


Î

POST PREGNANCY TREATMENTS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Perkier pecs

A

fter pregnancy, a woman’s breasts tend to go south. The skin loses firmness, elasticity and tone. Mama Mio has addressed these concerns with a targeted breast treatment: Bootcamp for Boobs, which has seen up to a 2cm lift after one treatment. And, if that is not all, this one-hour treatment is combined with the Batwing Blaster to tone flabby, flyaway arms. What is really appealing is that it is completely relaxing for the client – there is no discomfort or pain; you might as well be having massage with a twist. What I like about Mama Mio’s treatment is that, although it is designed to treat a certain area – the bust in this case – it does not mean that the influence other surrounding areas might have on the overall result has not been taken into consideration. This is why the treatment commences with a back diagnostic, waking up the blood flow and energy channels that help support the boobs. Remember posture is essential for pert profiles, and the release of back tension will pull the shoulders back to keep you standing proud. Skin Tight is then applied to tighten and re-texturise, from love handles at the base of the spine up to the shoulders.

Now it is time to turn around and get to work on the feet. How does this connect, you may ask? The breast reflex is found in all five zones on the top of the foot and covers the areas between the base of the toes and the diaphragm. The therapist therefore works with specific massage techniques to stimulate the relevant zones. Thereafter, Pro Strength 30% Fruit Acid Peel is applied to the décolletage and triceps. Its anti-ageing action promotes a younger looking cleavage and toned batwings. After 10 minutes the product is thoroughly removed. The therapist now focuses her attention on the batwings. From elbow to armpit, Shrink to Fit cream is applied followed by Mama Mio Shrink to Fit Alginate Mask, which

Shrink to Fit Alginate Mask is applied from elbow to armpit.

improves micro-circulation, encouraging drainage of stagnant fluids and fighting the appearance of unsightly bulges. The powerful combination of ingredients in both product and mask also improves elasticity, repairs the skin’s supporting structures and tightens and tones. After applying Skin Tight, a strategic pressure point massage on the bust area, triceps and biceps works to keep the pectorals pert for an instant lift. This is followed by layers of warmed boob tube, which are applied to the bust, to help increase cell regeneration, inhibit the loss of collagen and ‘plump’ the skin cells. Skin Tight, Shrink to Fit and Goodbye Stretch are applied to the abdomen, shoulders, triceps and biceps. Although I definitely experienced an improved firmness and pertness of my breasts after the one-hour treatment, I was advised that a course of six treatments over eight weeks would achieve even better results. PB

Contact: Poise Brands on 083 706 6066

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2013

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Î

POST PREGNANCY TREATMENTS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Healing grace

BEFORE

S

tretch marks have always been an unsightly bugbear post-pregnancy, and one that is very difficult to successfully treat. RegimA, however, has seen great success with a series of its professionally applied 70% AHA Peel and Heal treatments, combined with appropriate aftercare products for daily use. One satisfied client was willing to show us her results, and, I am sure you will agree, the photographs speak volumes –, in fact, I was amazed at the dramatic difference, not only in the size and colour of the stretch marks but the improvement in the overall tone and elasticity of the skin. As the before picture clearly reveals, this young mother was extremely unhappy with the “large purple stripes” – in her exact words – that were visible all over her body, and the very loose skin, as she had lost a lot of weight. After trying different suggestions and treatments, to no avail, she came across the RegimA brand through a therapist’s recommendation. The initial four 70% peels were administered in two-weekly intervals, followed by treatments every 3-4 weeks. The peel treatments were applied and left on the skin for 3-4 hours per session and then neutralised with the RegimA Velvet Body Wash. “Although I did not experience a marked difference during the first few sessions, the improvement thereafter was incredible, and it just started to get better and better from then on,” she says. “The size of the stretch marks, some of which were 4cm

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Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2013

AFTER

“In total, the treatments were performed over a period of six months with a phenomenal result – white, flattened stretch marks and firmer, tighter skin”

in depth, shrunk; the deep red and purple colour faded, and my skin was far tighter and more toned. It is far easier to look at my skin now!” In terms of pain and discomfort, she didn’t feel much for the first few

sessions. Thereafter, there was slight discomfort and the usual tingling sensation that is common with any peeling treatment. Immediately after the treatment, the stretch marks were very pink and sensitive, but this settled down after two days. To enhance the treatment results, homecare products RegimA Scar Repair and Anti-Stretch Complex and RegimA Body Treatment were applied twice a day in between peeling treatments. In total, the treatments were performed over a period of six months with a phenomenal result – white, flattened stretch marks and firmer, tighter skin. “I was delighted with the results, and have recommended the treatment to lot of others who are experiencing similar problems!” she exclaims.

Contact: RegimA on 011 615 2869


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POST PREGNANCY TREATMENTS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Freezing fat After pregnancy, many women strive to transform their bodies to their original shape. They undertake stringent diet and exercise programmes but just can’t get rid of that annoying bulge of fat, whether on the stomach, hips, thighs, and back.

T

his is where modern science has taken great strides – leading dermatologists at Massachusetts General Hospital have developed Coolsculpting by Zeltiq – a cold-based, non-surgical body contouring treatment that literally freezes fat cells to death, leading to a permanent reduction of fat in the treated area. In fact, one can see a 20-40% reduction in fat. Does it sound too good to be true? Well I had the treatment myself, and have to report that there has been a noticeable difference in my waist circumference. The entire process takes about four months to complete, so I have even more to look forward to in the next two months. So how does it work? The Zeltiq machine has a large suction head that is attached to an unwanted fat bulge. A vacuum sucks this bulge inwards between two electrodes which then freeze the area. As fat cells are made up of 90% water, the freezing process causes them to swell and burst, in a process called cryolypolysis. These damaged fat cells are gradually removed by the body’s own defence mechanisms via the lymphatic system and finally excreted. The next question I had was: is it safe? Zeltiq Coolsculpting is the only fat freezing machine that has received FDA approval to date. It underwent rigorous clinical trials for over five years to achieve this. Safety measures have been set in place to ensure that the fat cells freeze at a constant temperature of 40°C (proven to effectively destroy the cell without damage to the surrounding tissue). In fact, should the client’s own body temperature cause the freezing temperature to alter, the system will automatically shut down. These facts set my mind at rest, especially after hearing horror stories of necrosis caused by black market machines, which have resulted in the need for surgery and have left severe disfiguration. I have to be honest in saying that the first five minutes of the treatment are not pleasant. I would describe it as painful, but not unbearable. I was told that the stomach (the area I decided to treat) is the most uncomfortable. But once the area has started to freeze the rest of the

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hour session goes by easily. Some people are even known to fall asleep. The best part is that you can go straight back to work, which I did, as I have a magazine to write! For the next few week, I felt tender, bruised, and could not handle someone touching, brushing against or bumping my stomach. But, this is far better than the pain and downtime of liposuction, and the results are amazing! I am sold. Please note that this procedure is not designed for overweight individuals. You need to be at least 5kg away from your goal weight. For those needing to lose weight first, there are medical eating plans, like Slender Wonder, where patients can lose anything between three and 15kg a month.

Contact: Sternlaser on 011 783 3110

“Zeltiq Coolsculpting is the only fat freezing machine that has received FDA approval to date. It underwent rigorous clinical trials for over five years to achieve this”


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I AM A

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POST PREGNANCY TREATMENTS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Targeted treatment D Are you a mom who exercises and eats right but finds certain areas on your body are resistant to diet and exercise? Are you a mom on the go who finds visiting a gym everyday next to impossible? If so, say Yes to the special VelaBABE promotion!

uring the nine months of was informed that no creams should pregnancy, a woman's be applied due to its cooling effect. joy-filled local VelaShape treatment body Contact undergoes your dramatic The aim is to keep the area as warm as months of changes and regaining a possible so the metabolic provider and learn how you, too, can joinprocesses pre-baby body can tough. of moms initiated the Velashape s dramatic thebemillions who by restored their treatment Leading medical aesthetic device can continue. to your body and reclaimed their confidence. innovator Syneron's Velashape 2, Treatment normally takes just 45 f you’re distributed a locally by Radiant minutes and so is much faster than Healthcare, has a treatment designed the previous Velashape. A package body after for mothers who want to improve of one session every six weeks is vey of 500 their bodies after pregnancy. promoted in salons, and is perfect for d that their The Velababe treatment helps a time-out for mums. to achieve cellulite reduction that body. Of was caused due to the hormonal The technology behind the After tified their changes during Before pregnancy. It also Velashape treatments. helps to improve the appearance of VelaShape is Post thefivefirst FDA-cleared ified their Photos courtesy of Marc Winter, M.D. unsightly stretchmarks by tightening device for cellulite and circumference they just the skin. reduction, to tighten and smooth regnancy. This special post-pregnancy trouble spots that diet and exercise treatment specifically targets the cannot quite fix. stomach, love handles, saddlebags It features the revolutionary who have and buttocks, and also includes the ELOS combination of Bi-Polar legs to just above the knee. Radiofrequency (RF), Infrared Light ments to Before After After measurements are noted, Energy, plus Vacuum and Mechanical Post three treatments. photos are taken, then the process Massage, and no other method Photos courtesy of Moshe Lapidot, M.D. is repeated again after subsequent compares to VelaShape's clinically treatments so that the client can proven results, efficacy and safety assess progress. Velaspray Ease is in four treatments where the patient applied to prepare the area to be can lose up to 7cm in diameter. worked on. Velaspray Ease is a main component in the Velashape treatment Before After as it has skin-tightening effects, plus, Post three treatments. the hydration active component Photos courtesy of Roy Geronemus, M.D. allows smooth sliding of the Velashape device across the skin. © 2010. All rights reserved. VelaShape is a registered trademark of Syneron Medical Ltd. Proven Demand. Proven Results. VelaShape II and VelaBABE trademarks of Syneron Medical Ltd. and may be registered in Using Grow deep Your heat, fluidPB74111EN inareVelaShape fat certain jurisdictions. Practice with II cells is reduced, while suction and FACT: Our survey confirms that the majority of women massage smoothe skin by increasing feel unhappy with their inability to reclaim their “Body After Baby” through diet and exercise alone. circulation. During FACT: the rolling massage, VelaShape II delivers clinically proven postpartum body shaping results – an in-demand starting with tummy and then to solution. the legs, the skin is heated to 42°C, FACT: VelaShape II leads the non-invasive sector of body shaping market. Body is a growing and skinthe temperature is shaping closely segment in aesthetics with nearly 4 million treatments monitored. performed in 2009. I would describe the treatment as pleasant and comfortable Take mostly advantage of the postpartum body shaping opportunity! like a warm deep tissue massage. I only experienced some sensitivity www.syneron.com on the inner thigh area. infois@syneron.com The treatment is designed to accommodate your sensitivity and comfort level as the suction can be adjusted for people with different pain thresholds. It is normal to experience a warm sensation for a II is the market leader in non-invasive few hoursVelaShape post-treatment. The skin body shaping – the 1st medical device cleared for reduction and the 1stusual medical device may also circumference appear redder than available for the treatment of cellulite. VelaShape for severalII technology hours, isand I was clinically provenadvised in over a dozen independent studies and over 3.5 million treatments to drink plenty of water in the 12 globally. Results are visible in as few as 2 treatments. hours following the treatment, to aid the lymphatic system in detoxing. I *

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* Body shaping by temporary reduction of cellulite and circumference. Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2013 © 2010. All rights reserved. Syneron, the Syneron logo, VelaShape II and VelaShape are trademarks of Syneron Medical Ltd. and may be registered in certain jurisdictions. PB73841EN

Because I’m a mom on the move with little time to myself.

The precise heating ensures a safe, effective, fast treatment with no downtime. VelaShape contours, shapes, and slims the body by delivering heat combined with infrared and radiofrequency waves. It will precisely target the fatty tissue formed during pregnancy. In addition, a vacuum evens out the skin, and eliminates trapped extracellular fluids and toxins, diminishing cellulite's appearance, and revealing a smoother and tighter figure. Vacuum and specially designed rollers for the mechanical massage smoothe out the skin to facilitate safe and efficient heat energy delivery. The net result increases the metabolism of stored energy, increases lymphatic drainage and reduces or shrinks the size of the actual fat cells and fat chambers. It is suitable for all skin types and can also be used 4 - 5 months post natural delivery or at least 6 months post caesarean section, or until hormonal balance is regained. PB

Grow Your Practice with Shaping

Contact Radiant Healthcare Postpartum on: 011 794 8252/3 Body


A Trusted Path to Superior Outcomes Pain Free Permanent Hair Reduction Diode Laser Permanent Hair Reduction for ALL Skin Types including Dark Skin

Most used hair removal technology in the world.

Reduce treatment time up to 75% and increase revenue

LightSheer ® DUET™ a revolutionary Hair Removal system with 2 hand pieces to ensure patient comfort: •

One hand piece with 9 x 9 mm cooled crystal tip to treat smaller and bony areas. This is universally the most used and effective system for hair removal.

New HighSpeed hand piece with a 22 x 35 mm footprint (largest in market) and with integrated vacuum assist technology for treating large areas such as back and legs.

IPL for Hair Reduction and Skin Rejuvenation IPL® •

Exact, consistent, reproducible results - every single time

Results in a single session comparable to 3-5 treatments using other technologies

Thousands of proprietary, pre-programmed treatment parameters

One hand piece for all IPL treatments

For information on the full range of Aesthetic Systems supplied by Hitech Lasers please visit: www.hitechlasers.co.za Tel: 012 349 1250 Email: hitech@hitechlasers.co.za


Just perfect for chip-free, high-gloss colour. One System. Many Advantages. Treat your customers to Just Gel Polish - the strong 100% pure gel formula that wears like a classic true gel. Apply it just like polish and be rewarded with richer, more even colour. And time is on your side because this versatile gel polish cures quickly under either LED or UV light. It also protects natural nails with stronger, long-lasting wear. Remove Just Gel Polish easily in just 10 minutes with no mess and no fuss.

• IBD PowerBond • Just Gel Polish Base Coat • Just Gel Polish Top Coat • 84 Just Gel Polish Shades • 35 Créme, 31 Shimmer & 9 Glitter Colours • 9 Glowing Neon Colours Our Just Gel Polish System puts it all at your fingertips with easy and simple steps for performing manicures and pedicures. It includes a Bonder, an exclusive Base Coat, Top Coat and long-lasting Gel Colour with a choice of 84 “just right” shades.

• IBD Soak-off Gel Polish • IBD Buff Off Gel • IBD Acrylic Systems Contact us for further information on: 011 783 1031 or Email: distribution@thenailpeople.co.za www.thenailpeople.co.za

COMING SOON On-line courses available from the end of January 2013

Sally Durant Training and Consultancy In association with Karen Ellithorne YOUR INVITATION TO AN EXCLUSIVE TRAINING EVENT ON MONDAY 8Th ApRIL 2013

Sally Durant will be presenting a CPD Certified one day seminar on the following: “The Hormonal Influences on Skin Condition and Advanced Treatment Approaches”

Sally has built an international reputation for her expertise in skin health and clinical aesthetics. She is engaged by many high profile corporations and works alongside some of the top clinical professionals, dermatologists and cosmetic scientists. Last year she appointed Karen Ellithorne of Spa and Salon Solutions to be the sole distributor of her advanced training programmes and online courses in South Africa.This event is to be held in Johannesburg and is ideal for all professionals working in the skin care industry.

“On-line Training - A new flexible Approach to Professional development for the Skin Care Clinician”

Early booking is recommended as places will be limited. DATE: Monday 8th April 2013 VENUE: Johannesburg – Exact location to be confirmed DELEGATE FEE: R 995 – An early bird delegate fee of R 850 applies for bookings made before January 31st 2013

For Seminar booking and Forthcoming Course Dates Contact Karen Ellithorne: karen@spaandsolutions.co.za Tel: 011 784 0376 | www.medicaltrainingsolutions.co.za


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NAILS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Retail

aftercare

Retailing is not only smart business; it ensures the longevity of the services and treatments you offer your clients and increases your profits. Sonette van Rensburg shares insights on how to effectively retail aftercare products to your clients

U

ltimately we are all in the business of selling something or the other, whether it is a service or product. To be able to sell successfully you will require training in sales techniques, and will also have to concentrate on some important factors to build a solid relationship with your client. Once you have achieved this, the client will always return to you for advice and their requirements.

that are more particular and demanding, and will always ask 100 questions before making a firm decision. Appreciating that people have their own views, feelings, values, and aims is a vital concept within selling. The more we understand them, the more likely we will be able to develop a rapport and trust with them.

Understanding people’s needs

What are clients looking for when purchasing a product?

It is important to understand that people are all different and therefore all have different perspectives and needs. You will come across various personality types, from those that are very easy to sell to, as they know exactly what they want, to those

• Value for money • Advantages (features & benefits) • Professional friendly service • Attractive & appealing packaging • Availability • Guarantee >

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Knowledge is power Use knowledge and information about the person as a means of gaining their trust and flexibility. This will enable you to lead the customer in a certain direction. Educate your clients - recommend products that they need, explain why they need it, when and how often to use it, and, most importantly, set realistic expectations as to how long it will take before they can expect results. Do not over-promise anything, rather under-promise and over-deliver - if you do your client will think you are amazing. You also need to have a good sound knowledge about the products which you are selling - know the ingredients and functions of the products, and be aware of all the specials and promotions which are taking place.

Always remember that your clients are thinking: WIIFM - “What’s in it for me?”

Features, advantages and benefits Linking features, advantages and benefits is a well-known technique and an important basic concept for a successful selling process. The principle and objective of using this technique is about the purpose and what the client is buying the product for. Remember clients do not buy the features or even the advantages, but what the features and advantages can do for them - the benefit. Always remember that your clients are thinking: WIIFM - “What’s in it for me?”

Opening a sale With the above points in mind, do not miss an opportunity to sell a product. The way you deal with and approach a sale could either make or break it. • Use positive body language – it is vital to show your client that you are interested in them as a person and that you are there help them to accommodate their needs and achieve their goals. • Do not rush the sale – never make your client feel like she is an interruption to your day. If she feels rushed in any way, you will stand a chance of losing the sale. • Pay attention to what your client is saying and do not assume you know what they want without first finding out. • Be honest and sincere – always sell your client items that will be of use and benefit them. • Use open questions – these are questions which may not be answered with a definite yes or no but will assist you in obtaining information to help make the sale. • Smell, feel and touch – the best way to sell a product is through enticing the senses and involving your client in the sales process. This will immediately alert you to whether they like what they are trying or not.

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NAILS

Successful Selling • A positive attitude – people avoid purchasing from unenthusiastic or negative people. Passion for what you do and a positive outlook on what you’re selling will always capture your customer’s attention. • Achievable, tangible goals – you and your team need goals; a reason to sell and a target to work towards. This provides direction and can constantly act as motivation to keep trying. • Manage your time successfully – it is important to make sure you’re prepared for your customers. Start your day with 10 minutes to prepare by checking what customers have purchased in the past, the treatment they have booked, and plan what you could discuss with them. • Know your stuff - customers can tell if you are making it up. Remember lack of knowledge will fail your sale. We need to truly know our products and treatments to make sure we can portray our confidence in our product and expertise. • Ask for the sale – a big mistake in all retail sales is not asking the client if they want to take the product home with them. This simple question gives the customer the opportunity to say yes or no. Not asking the client leaves them in limbo land, which is a surefire way to lose a sale. • Selling is a skill - it needs to be practised and perfected. Take time to polish your selling skills and constantly update yourself on what is new and different. Do not fool yourselves; the beauty industry is a salesbased industry. If you want to build a successful team of therapists that can sell your brands don’t just send them on product knowledge training, make sure they are getting sales skills training as well. Source: Michelle Arde – training consultant, KZN Cosmetology

• Information and Point of Sale – offer your client Point of Sale materials, such as information leaflets and brochures and refer to them for important points and facts about the product about which they are enquiring.

Closing the sale This is an invitation to take the product home. You can spend a lot of time with one single client asking questions, trying out products on them, telling them about the features and benefits of a product, but you could lose the sale at the very last minute just like that.

Link-selling Using the link-selling technique can be very beneficial to you as a salesperson and can help to generate extra revenue, income and commission, so use every opportunity to do so. Recommend complementary products to the ones they are already interested in buying, and offer alternatives if you are out of stock of somethinG. PB

Sonette has been in the nail and beauty industry for 24 years. She consults with salons, spas and training salon professionals in all aspects of nail and beauty technology, basic salon skills, client relations and perfecting technical skills. email: sonettevr@gmail.com or tel: 076 585 4191

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NAILS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Ready for Retail solar powered.

Professional Beauty looks at top sellers in the nail care market

Ciate White Chocolate Gentle and Nourishing Nail Polish Remover consists of a non-drying, acetonefree formulation enriched with Panthenol (vitamin little bottle holds a big secret— B5) and Vitamin E.This Once iconic applied and dried, the signature aroma ofthe this product comes through. magic of gorgeous nails and cuticles! 086 184 6873

SolarOil™ helps manicures shine brighter and last longer. Healthy nails are the perfect canvas for your art, and smooth cuticles frame each finger flawlessly. LCN 7in1 Wonder Nail Recovery contains a base coat, whitener, ridge filler, super hardener, top SolarOil.coat, Only wet from look andCND. quick dry all in one product. This special care nail polish also provides nail regeneration, fortifies the nail plate, and protects against yellowish discolouration. 8 years in a row! 087 751 0410

Spalicious introduces Ultra-Luxurious Silky Soft Hand & Body Therapy. Key ingredients include: Aqualance – an ingredient proven to improve moisture on the skin surface by up to 34% and the hydration of skin cells by up to 37%, and ReviElix, a plant derived from Omega 3, 6 and 9, which increases collagen and elasticity, regenerates demal structure, targets wrinkles and improves protection of the skin. 011 312 7840

CND Essentials SolarOil is a synergistic blend of naturally light oils and Vitamin E, designed to maintain nails, nail colour and enhancements. Jojoba Oil carries the Vitamin E deeply into the skin to help reduce visible signs of aging. 086 112 6374

NSI Nurture Oil is a scientifically enhanced blend of five emollients (Jojoba, Soy, Safflower, Wheat Germ and Grape Seed Oils) as well as Vitamins C & E. It helps prolong nail enhancements’ durability and flexibility, supplying cuticles with nourishment and lasting softness while aiding in skin cell renewal. 012 621 3300

nc.

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Ice Box colors Gold and Silver shimmer top coats add glitz and glamour to any one of the colours in the range. One can also wear them on their own for a natural, sheer sparkle. 083 226 6323


Pigment Restoration Acne Clearance Superficial Vascular Lesions

• Laser Consultation • Laser Sales • Laser Training • Laser Education • Laser Repairs • Maintenance • Laser Installations.

Vascular & Pigmented Lesions Skin Rejuvenation Various Skin Conditions Super Hair Removal Skin Tightening

Leg Veins Wrinkles & Acne Scars Tattoo Removal & Fractional Non Ablative Skin Resurfacing Fractional Ablative Skin Resurfacing Hair Removal & Pigmented Lesions

The Comfortable Way to Eliminate Unwanted Body Hair

Contact: Andy Best Tel: +27 (0) 12 998 9844 Fax: 086 219 1942 Cell: +27 (0) 72 574 3159 Website: www.bestlasers.co.za Email: info@bestlasers.co.za

The Comfortable Way to Tone and Tighten your Skin

Laser Skin Resurfacing & Rejuvenation


ĂŽ

MEDICAL AESTHETICS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Surgical versus non-surgical There are numerous factors that need to be taken into consideration when selecting a surgical versus non-surgical procedure for patients, from the quality of their skin to medical history and lifestyle. Karen Ellithorne asks well-known specialist doctors for their opinion.

Dr Revelas (Vascular surgeon) The cosmetic side of my vascular practice is the industry of varicose veins. The majority of varicose or spider vein cases in my practice are purely for aesthetic concerns, but that does not mean there are no medical reasons for eradicating varicose veins. That said there are also numerous procedure options to consider when examining how best to eliminate the very common problem of varicose and spider veins. It is important to understand each treatment procedure to appreciate when the decision to go surgical or non-surgical is made.

Non-surgical options Sclerotherapy is the most common varicose vein treatment offered at aesthetics clinics across the country. The treatment involves multiple treatments spaced roughly one or

two weeks apart. At each treatment session a sclerosing agent is injected into the vein. This agent effectively closes the vein and subsequently the varicose vein disappears. Treatment duration is based upon severity and size of the problem. The drawback with this type of treatment is that it is best suited to smaller veins, and it cannot be guaranteed that the problem will not resurface. Often patients are unaware of the treatment duration when choosing sclerotherapy and/or are hesitant to undergo needle treatments.

Surgical options This can be categorised into two groups, theatre cases and theatre outpatient cases. Theatre cases involve vein stripping and this route is only necessary when varicose veins have become ulcerous

“The decision to opt for surgery versus nonsurgical is based largely on a case-by-case basis.�

or dangerous, due to bleeding. Theatre outpatient cases in my practice take the form of radio-frequency vein ablation. This is a minimally invasive treatment that uses radiofrequency to heat and close varicose veins permanently. By inserting a catheter into the targeted blood vessel you can accurately treat varicose veins in large areas quickly, relatively inexpensively, and have your patient out and home immediately after the procedure. The added bonus is that the downtime is similar to that of sclerotherapy, but it is a once off. The one-treatment course and quick recovery make radiofrequency vein ablation my choice for treating varicose veins that present as larger or denser than the most minor cases. The decision to opt for surgery versus non-surgical is based largely on a caseby-case basis. If a patient presents with small varicose or spider veins, and does not mind multiple treatment visits, then sclerotherapy is a superb option, but for anything more complicated, I would opt for a single-treatment option and that in my practice is radiofrequency vein ablation. >

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MEDICAL AESTHETICS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Dr Charles Serrurier (Plastic surgeon)

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he decision to opt for a surgical route versus a non-surgical alternative is not a decision taken lightly and there are many factors to consider before proposing either. In a cosmetic sense the most common area where I find this question to be challenging involves procedures of the face. Today techniques, fat transfer and aesthetic medicine offer the patient alternatives to the traditional facelift or Rhinoplasty (corrective nose surgery). Botox and dermal fillers can dramatically alter a patient’s face and correct deformities, and do so at minimal cost when compared to surgery. Similarly, fat transfer offers similar results but on a permanent basis.

So why would surgery still be an option or be considered? Surgery might prove immediately expensive, but over the long term surgery saves money. The permanent nature means there are no repeat treatments, as with aesthetic medicine,

“I can offer my best advice to achieve the patient’s aesthetic or cosmetic desires, based upon the limitations they and their body have set before me.”

and the downtime, like the surgery, is once off. Techniques too, have improved over the years and we can now perform safer, more predictable, surgery with less risk than ever before. But they do both have a place in any good practice. Why? Aesthetic medicine can provide some temporary insight into what a more permanent surgery could achieve. Some fillers to the face and nose could simulate a rhinoplasty or facelift and help make an informed decision as to whether to undergo a radical change. That said, sometimes other factors will dictate when a surgical or non-surgical option might be taken, such as skin condition. In cases of severe wrinkling and loss of skin elasticity, dermal filler injections will do little other than waste the patient’s money. Surgery would be the only

option. On the other hand, when wrinkles are minor and skin elasticity is sufficient it would be irresponsible not to offer the non-permanent, less invasive, option as an alternative. Patients need to be assessed on a per patient basis. Patient preferences need to be considered, so too their desired outcomes. That is why I base my judgment to go surgical versus non-surgical on two strict criteria: • The patient interview - what they want and how they would like to achieve it. • What the condition of the patient’s skin will allow me to do. This way I can offer my best advice to achieve the patient’s aesthetic or cosmetic desires, based upon the limitations they and their body have set before me.

Dr M. Kelly (Plastic surgeon)

B

eing a plastic surgeon, the decision to opt for surgical or non-surgical treatments is one I face daily. There are numerous considerations to take into account before making a decision that could permanently impact a patient. Non-surgical, by definition, means non-invasive. There is also, in my opinion, confusion as to the effectiveness of some non-surgical procedures versus liposuction. There are no non-surgical options to mimic liposuction results. In cases of liposuction and body contouring, there is no alternative to surgery.  Genuine procedures where you need to decide between invasive and noninvasive include: • Facelift vs. skin rejuvenation (laser) & fillers or fat fills • Blepharoplasty vs. dermal filler injection, or fat fills and Botox • Neck lift vs. chemical peels and dermal filler rejuvenation • Rhinoplasty vs. dermal fillers 

Each case needs to be judged on merit, but none of the non-surgical options offer the same scope for aesthetic results, but that does not mean everyone should undergo surgery. Minor alterations can be treated with non-surgical techniques, where non-permanent treatments will offer the patient minimal downtime and cost when compared to the result duration and the cost of surgery. We must remember that surgery always comes with some form of risk

“Each case needs to be judged on merit, but none of the non-surgical options offer the same scope for aesthetic results, but that does not mean everyone should undergo surgery.”

and downtime. If the patient can achieve their desired outcome, and their current physical appearance (skin quality, bone structure etc.) will allow for the result, then they would be suitable candidates for nonsurgical intervention. On the other hand, when a patient would require extensive non-surgical treatment at a significant cost, then surgery would offer a long term and cost-effective option when compared with maintaining their desired non-surgical results. Today we are driven by results and price. My reputation is based upon my results and I will always recommend the best and most cost-effective option to achieve the patient’s desired result. Before making any decision with my patient, however, we will need to decide what procedure will achieve the best result for the price, and that cost must be factored into the longevity of the procedure. PB

With more than 20 years of experience in her field, Karen Ellithorne is the owner of Spa and Salon Solutions. In conjunction with Sally Durant Training and Consultancy UK, she also offers a range of internationally certified training courses, specifically for aesthetic practitioners, beauty therapists and nurses. Email: Karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za

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The perfect system for quality and professional eyelash and eyebrow tinting

(Tel) 031 2095490, (Fax) 031 209 9352, refectocil@wol.co.za, www.refectocil.co.za

FOR LONGLASTING BEAUTY!


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PRODUCT NEWS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

In the market Our round-up of newly launched products, equipment and innovations.

Irresistibly delectable Charlotte Rhys introduces the Yum Collection – a range of pampering body creams and butters, hydrating body washes, luxuriant bubbles, invigorating body scrubs, pillow sprays and slowburning candles. These products are available in a selection of fruit and floral fragrances from Wanton Blueberry, Very Berry, Velvet Vanilla, Lotus and Dragonfruit to Atomic Kiwi, Coconut Ice and Ruby Grapefruit. 021 702 1338

In a flash

All in a day’s tan

The Remington i-Light Pro IPL hair removal system uses advanced technology for long-lasting hair reduction results. Treatments are fast and effective with an intelligent Multi-flash mode for continuous movement, and a two-second Propulse technology flash rate with no downtime for recharging. An integrate skin sensor helps ensure only appropriate skin tones are treated, an enhanced pulse profile at 110ms allows more thorough and safe heating of the hair follicle, and higher power at 7-8 J/cm2 delivers effective hair removal results. 011 463 9912

Xen-Tan Scent Secure Gold is an oil-free and firming tinted moisturiser with 24K gold leaf, which adds a soft, non-glittery glow to the skin. This product provides a natural, instant colour with an olive undertone that easily washes off with soap and water. It can also be used to deepen self-tan or block selftan odour due to Scent Secure - a new deodorant technology that actually surrounds the tanning molecule so there is no tell-tale self-tan scent. 021 981 6573

Continuous hydration Matis has developed a product called Hyaluronic Performance, whose formula acts on the skin like continuous micro-injections of hyaluronic acid to deliver three actions: intense hydration, plumping and smoothing of the skin. It features a specific technical ingredient called MatiSystem H3T2, which is an encapsulated molecule that has the ability to penetrate into the dermis. This product boosts the synthesis of the skin’s own hyaluronic acid by providing 24-hour continuous hydration. 011 305 1600

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PRODUCT NEWS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Targeting eyes Ericson Laboratorie Anti-Fatigue PhytoCapsules contain a blend of plant extracts and a powerful phyto-complex, Silox GT, which will restore suppleness and tone to tired skin. Its rich bioflavanoid content enables it to inhibit the activity of the superoxide anion partly responsible for cell oxidation and some inflammation phenomena. Blackcurrant and borage extracts partly reduce tissue water loss, thus restoring the skin’s suppleness and horsetail remineralises tissues, which also helps to restore suppleness. 011 783 9817

7-day youth Gatineau Renew 7 Laser works to reduce wrinkles at the surface of your skin, with a more in-depth filling action of hyaluronic acid in lower layers. This “botoxlike” effect smoothes contours and expression lines and stimulates epidermal stem cells, while AHAs provide a lifting and micro-peeling action on the skin. This product is to be used three or four times per year as an intensive seven-day treatment. 021 701 2900

Summer fruit Sothys introduces its seasonal treatment for summer which combines grapefruit, orange and pomelos to refresh and invigorate. These citrus fruits are rich in vitamins known to purify, tone, soften, remineralise and regenerate the skin. After the treatment the client is given a one-week dose of grapefruitvitaminised fluid to prolong the effects at home. 011 880 4077

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Skin booster Lamelle has launched its Corrective Recharge CE Complex to improve skin firmness as well as discolouration, texture and wrinkles. This is achieved with its stable, anhydrous (water-free) formulation that contains a high concentration of ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) which has been shown to effectively increase cell activity and collagen production without irritation. 011 465 2264


FREEZE YOUR FAT OFF ON N D EE AN S AS AATB M

The procedure is performed on both men and women under medical supervision. It uses an advanced tissue cooling technology to target and naturally eliminate fat cells without damaging the skin. The treatment takes an hour per area treated. No needles; incisions; anesthesia, pain medication or recovery time!

With patented built-in safety measures, CoolSculpting is the ONLY cold based, non-surgical body contouring treatment that is FDA cleared, CE marked as a Class IIa medical device, and has the most medical approvals worldwide. DON’T BE FOOLED BY CHEAP IMITATORS WHO CLAIM TO HAVE FDA APPROVAL & OFFER SAFE CRYOLIPOLYSIS Proudly distributed by: Contact Ian Ziervogel 0825515938 www.sternlaser.co.za


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PRODUCT FOCUS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Treat & cover Products with combined benefits are growing in popularity around the globe. Professional Beauty focuses on foundations that can cover, protect and treat the skin – all in one

Dermalogica introduces Cover Tint SPF20 that provides medium to full coverage. It contains velvety silicones to enhance coverage and even skin texture, and natural lightdiffusing agents combined with natural mineral colour pigments to balance skin tone and soften lines. Skin treatment and protection benefits include: deep hydration, anti-oxidative activity, and skin cell renewal and collagen generation. 011 268 0018

Black Opal Cosmetics True Colour Cream to Powder Foundation SPF8 offers a dual finish with medium coverage along with the benefits of safeguarding the skin from UV damage. It is PABA-free, non-comedogenic and is designed with colour-balancing pigments to help create a natural finish that is never dull or ashy. 011 462 5321

Priori Natural Daily Protection SPF 25 brightens like a primer, evens the complexion like a lightweight foundation and acts like a concealer to even blemishes. It also contains anti-inflammatory and hydrating properties and anti-ageing benefits. 011 486 4904

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Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2013

RegimA Face-It natural plant-based foundation is formulated specifically to provide added protection against harsh climates. Plant tinctures provide essential colour, while high concentrations of healing plants and algae have a repairing, therapeutic action on the skin. 011 615 2869

D’Orleac Professional Make up Aquastick Foundation is a water-based foundation stick that offers a cooling application with adaptable coverage. It has a moisturising effect thanks to its active properties, and is recommended for all skin types, especially dry and mature skins. 043 726 0585

Matis introduces Radiance mineral-based treatment foundation, which is elaborated from micronised powders to be non-comedogenic. Plant-based oil contained in the formula ensures an intense and long-lasting moisturising effect. 011 305 1600


NAILS PERFECTED - Only from Akzentz

Leading International nail care Brand, Bio Sculpture® Gel, is very excited to announce the launch of their revolutionary LED lamp, and the Bio Sculpture Gel range now curing in just 30 seconds!

For reference to your nearest distributor call 0861-BIOGEL (0861-246435) or visit www. biosculpture.com

Distributed in South Africa by

Tel: 011 728 8060 Email: info@nailaffair.co.za savaPBad_v3.pdf

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Clarins has launched Skin Illusion Mineral & Plant Extracts Loose Powder Foundation. This ultra-fine, light-weight powder foundation acts like a radiance booster by diffracting light. It contains pink algae to stimulate cell regeneration, micro-patches of vegetable origin to continuously moisturise, white tea and succory-dock cress to protect from pollution and free radicals, and mineral filters to protect from UV rays (SPF15). 011 809 6300

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PRODUCT FOCUS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

– Glominerals gloProtective Liquid Foundation includes an exclusive blend of antioxidants, minerals and caviar extract combined with innovative ingredients, Mala’kite and Venuceane, to offer the utmost defence against the superoxide radical, as well as repairing and protecting against the damage caused by UV rays. 021 552 6999

DermaMinerals is a transfer- and water-resistant, SPF30 mineral-based foundation containing oxygenated ingredients to let the skin breathe. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acneic skin, and can be applied immediately post-laser or peel treatment. It also contains mica-wrapped cotton fibres for skin radiance; archipelago sea minerals to rebalance, hydrate and soothe; EpiRepair Complex to protect and heal; and dermaxyl peptides to minimise the appearance of fine lines and pores. 011 325 5849

GET EDUCATED

Young Nails’ revolutionary soak-off color gel (Mani Q) is formulated to be both fast and durable. You can work confidently and quickly with a zippy 30-second cure using a LED light or 1-minute cure using our UV light.

CALL ONE OF OUR EDUCATORS TODAY

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EDUCATION AND TRAINING

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BEAUTY MARKETPLACE To advertise your PRODUCTS, SERVICES AND SUPPLIES in this space, call Sandy on 011 781 5970

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2013

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PRODUCTS AND SERVICES The DeparTMeNT of SoMaTology provides undergraduate and postgraduate qualifications

• National Diploma Somatology • B-Tech Degree Somatology • M-Tech Degree Somatology • D-Tech Degree Somatology for More iNforMaTioN: www.uj.ac.za or call 011 559 6464

Contact: Shiloh Cell: 072 543 2620 / 072 234 6190 / 031 312 5200 The Vanity Box Training Centre and Makeup Studio

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Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2013

CONTACT: admin@imageconsultant.co.za Office Land Line: 032 586 0286 SMS: 072 043 6528 www.imageconsultant.co.za

The Beauty Industry needs you! Recruit your staff with Professional Beauty To find out more call Sandy: 011 781-5970

VISIT: www.probeauty.co.za


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ANTI-HORMONAL TREATMENT AND ANTIBIOTIC TREATMENT OF COMBINATION, OILY AND ACNE-PRONE SKIN Stimulation of the skin’s natural antibiotics, Androgenic hormone regulation, Skin detoxification, Seborrhoeic regulation, Matifying effect on shiny skin.

ERICSON LABORATOIRE ERICSON LABORATOIRE SOUTH AFRICA 011 783 9817 / 072 302 2879 www.ericson-laboratoire.com

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2013  

The Professional Beauty Magazine is the leading trade publication for the professional beauty industry in South Africa and neighbouring coun...