Professional Beauty September 2017

September 2017

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incorporating

Silky

smooth Latest hair removal systems – product and machines

IN

THE DEFINING

How to run a financially sound business

difference Making your salon stand out from the clutter

VISIT US STAND No.

L23 Professional Beauty Expo 2017

18

33

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In this issue...

Regulars

Business

Features

7 Industry news

41 Uplifting your staff through mentoring

29 Treatment Review

Local and international news

63 Crowning glory

What’s hot and happening in the hair industry

67 Product news

All the latest launches

Business 18 Ask the Experts

All your questions answered

21 Insider

Implementing a mentorship programme

42 The right stuff

Maintaining business integrity

Spa Focus 44 Heaven on earth

The Saxon Spa revamps

46 At your service

How to keep customers coming back

Environ Ultimate Vitamin Therapy Facial

50 Win by a neck

Neck and bust treatments

56 Hairy situation

Hair removal – product and machines

Medical Aesthetics 64 The new age of facial rejuvenation

Toxins, fillers and threads

Tracking the industry with stats

25 Business as usual, or not?

Communicating your point of difference

30 A boutique offering

Case Study – The Skin Syndicate

33 Sound advice

Running a financially healthy business

37 The physics of real life

How to beat procrastination

38 Fundamentals of finance

The importance of financial intelligence

21

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Welcome

4

T

he September issue of Professional Beauty is traditionally our biggest issue of the year as it comes out in time for our flagship event – the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Show. In this bumper 96-page issue you will find a wealth of useful business articles that cover the importance of being in control of your financials, to talking to the needs of the client, to tips on how to avoid procrastinating, to maintaining business integrity, to the significance of mentoring. We also include a case study of a singular salon in Lenasia and take an in-depth look at the impressive revamp of a 5-star hotel spa.

Our news section highlights a serious problem in the industry – the importing and selling of un-registered aesthetic devices into an unsuspecting market. Any salons, spas and aesthetics clinics would do well to only purchase from legitimate distributors who register the devices they sell with the Department of Health Directorate: Radiation, which has strict criteria in place to ensure such devices are safe for use. Otherwise, buyers might experience disastrous consequences, ranging from patient injury to possible lawsuits.

Products and treatments are not forgotten in this issue, as we include special features on hair removal (both product and machines), neck and bust treatments, and, on the aesthetics side, the latest developments pertaining to toxins, dermal fillers and threads.

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

September 2017

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smooth Latest hair removal systems – product and machines

IN

THE DEFINING

How to run a financially sound business

difference Making your salon stand out from the clutter

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7 News

News Unregistered aesthetic devices pose threat to industry At the time of going to print, legitimate distributors of energybased aesthetics devices were applying for their annual reregistration of products with the Department of Health Directorate: Radiation, while unregistered devices continue to be sold into the market illegally.

Energy based aesthetics devices include lasers, IPLs and radiofrequency, as well as ultrasound.

Says Jacques Pretorius of Radiant Healthcare: “Each year we re-register our devices as per the law. However, there are so many illegal products in the market place that are not registered. For a device to be registered with the Department of Health, you have to submit the CE Marking of Conformity on devices and comply with EC Directive 93/42/EEC or 90/385/EEC. If products don’t comply then you are not allowed to import them into South Africa, or sell them, nor can they be used.

“We are aware of dubious importers placing their non-

compliant systems in the market.

These devices might not be safe, posing a serious danger to patients.

If the Department of Health hears of unregistered devices, they insist on their immediate withdrawal from the market.”

Gary Price of Venus Concept South Africa has become aware of a thriving sub-tier of importers who bring un-licensed (and therefore un-registered) devices into the country.

He continues: “Desperate or ignorant service providers, and especially ‘start-ups’, fall victim to the lure of an ‘affordable’ device.

Unfortunately, as soon as consumables, spares, parts and aftersales service prove unavailable, their investment becomes very expensive. We regularly receive calls from disillusioned service providers who have invested with unscrupulous distributors.”

Price stresses that the greater issue is patient safety. “Carrying the CE Marking of Conformity on devices declares to patients that a device has met required standards

from design, through manufacture and clinical testing, to approved supply chains. It speaks to safety margins for power output, clinical efficacy benchmarks and proven scientific reviews. The quality and level of training and certification given to operators by the supplier also contributes to patient safety and satisfaction. Together, this ultimately determines the safety and efficacy of a device.”

Naomi Olivier of The Hitech Group points out that while it takes many hours to prepare the necessary documentation for the Department of Health, the regulations are good news for the industry. “These regulations are there to shake out dishonest people selling inferior systems and will hopefully put a stop to every Tom, Dick and Harry importing medical devices for which they take no responsibility.

“We very often receive calls from owners who bought a system from such importers, used a bank loan to pay for the device and after a while (before the system is paid for), it stops working.”

SA participation at Professional Beauty India Eleven South African companies will exhibit at the Professional Beauty India Show, which runs from 15 to 19 September in Mumbai.

The participation of these companies has been facilitated by CECOSA (Cosmetic Export Council of South Africa), which has been approved by the Department of Trade and Industry (the dti) to create a South African Pavilion at the show.

Says CECOSA executive director, Theresa Moller: “We are currently in the process of making all the necessary arrangements with the event organisers, as well as with

the Professional Beauty South Africa Team.

“Backed onto this, we will also be attending the 65th CIDESCO World Conference, which will, for the first time, run in conjunction with Professional Beauty. CIDESCO is the world’s premiere spa and beauty certifier. They lend great value to our industry so this is an important event to attend. The South African delegation will be able to interact and network with professionals across the global industry.”

Participating South African companies are: Antjies Handmade

Naturals; Bluvain Trading as Bella Roze; Clear Innovation; Dermacell Cosmetics and Health Care; Elli Organic; Gary Rom Hairdressing Imports & Sales; ISkin; Lavenderlane Essential Oils; Lynne de Jager; Nouvelle Cosmetics; and Tanzeem Fakir t/a Laser Soft Clinic.

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News

8

inbrief // The Camelot Spa Group participated in the recent Global Wellness Day, something it has done since 2015, as it believes it is important to raise awareness about living well and to encourage guests to lead a better and healthier life. Camelot Spa at Table Bay Hotel features on the social media page of the Global Wellness Day website (https://www. globalwellnessday.org). // CIDESCO, the World standard for Beauty & Spa Therapy, has introduced a new level of membership – the CIDESCO Associates Membership.

This category is open to brands and suppliers to the professional beauty, spa, aesthetics and wellness industries and individual professionals within these sectors. // Highlighting a new trend of incorporating jelly into skincare products, Japanese beauty brand Shiseido recently launched a Fresh Jelly Lotion as part of its brand-new Waso range, which is rooted in natural, organic ingredients. Its main ingredient is white jelly mushroom, said to encourage a healthy, dewy complexion. // A soy-based technology that claims to be an environmentally friendly alternative to microbeads has been developed. Graduates from Purdue University in Indiana have developed SoyFoliate after realising the beauty industry’s need for an alternative to the plastic beads, following on from the Obama administration’s 2015 restrictions on the manufacture of the beads in personal care products, and now the UK’s ban.

online @ probeauty.co.za

NBIPA aims to improve industry standards

Fledgling non-profit organisation and professional body – the Namibian Beauty Industry Professionals Association (NBIPA) – recently launched its website and is focused on improving the standards and regulations of beauty industry practitioners.

Says the NBIPA’s Tanya Gunning (and owner of The Nail Lady): “Although we’re just starting out as a formal association, we have had a community of 280 active participants from all the general trades (i.e. beauty, hairdressing and nails) since 2015.

“Key areas for us are to implement minimum standards, encourage compliance, and educate both consumers and salon professionals alike. We want to develop, award, monitor and revoke professional designations and regulate continual professional development (CPD).”

Gunning notes that NBIPA wishes to advance cooperation of all participants practicing in the professional beauty/ personal services industries so as to ensure the maintenance of the highest standards of ethical conduct.

For more information log onto https://nambeautyassociation.com/

Best Enterprise launches The Best family, well known to the aesthetics sector through their company, Best Lasers (distributers of Alma Lasers), have opened a new company called Best Enterprise.

Owned and run by Sharon Best and the directors of Best Lasers, the new company was formed to distribute Formatk lasers and is on the lookout for further growth opportunities within the aesthetic market.

Says marketing executive, Chivone de Lange: “The Best family saw a gap in the market to offer compact aesthetic laser and IPL (Intense Pulsed Light) devices that are more affordable yet still effective.

“Formatk manufacturing aesthetic devices are compatible with various technologies such as IPL, Diode

laser, Nd:YAG, R-Sonic, SMART ST and Diamond Peeling. Clients will be able to purchase systems that are compatible with more than one system, depending on which system is bought.”

De Lange notes that Best Enterprise has already sold one Formatk laser, the Forma ‘One for All’ system. “This system is compatible with (IPL), SMART-ST, R-Sonic, Diamond Peeling, allowing our client to treat a number of conditions such as active acne, pigmented lesions, hair removal and skin tightening, among many others.”

Best Enterprise is based in Pretoria East and operates through the entire Sub-Saharan Africa region.

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Customisation a key factor in beauty trends The world’s beauty market is experiencing a growing desire for more customised beauty offerings that provide unique benefits to each individual consumer, according to research and consulting firm GlobalData.

The company’s recent report, Top Trends in Beauty and Grooming 2017, states that the growth of social media and sense

of a need to look one’s best at all times have created a cycle of perpetual expansion in the beauty and grooming market, with consumers desperate to keep up with the latest trends and cultural zeitgeist.

Jamie Mills, Consumer Analyst for GlobalData, says: “The ability to customise or personalise beauty and grooming products

is a significant draw to today’s consumers. How well a product is tailored to one’s needs and personality is the second most influential factor when making choices in this sector, the first being how the product impacts health and wellbeing. Therefore exploring customisable attributes is a key way to engage with this need.”

Lee-chem targets black male market

This is in response to increasing demand from black male consumers for products that can safely deliver even skin tone benefits.

Says James Byrne, MD of Lee-Chem Laboratories: “DX Smooth Pro Series was professionally formulated for black men living in harsh African conditions. It contains the revolutionary Synotone Complex™, a unique combination of clinically active ingredients, herbal and plant extracts, essential oils, vitamins and

anti-oxidants.

“Proven to be four times more efficacious than hydroquinone, Synotone Complex™ forms an intrinsic part of each formulation in the range. But with skin safety as the key philosophy behind the products, DX Smooth Pro Series is hydroquinone free, unlike the toxic skin lighteners of the past, and will not cause damage to the skin.”

Placecol goes north South African award-winning skincare range, Placecol, is now available in Namibia, Botswana and Swaziland within the Edgars flagship stores.

Says Esna Colyn CEO of Imbalie Beauty: “We are very excited to launch our Placeol brand into neighbouring countries and have also started to export to Mauritius.”

Imbalie Beauty is currently working on a new service concept to launch the upgraded Placecol brand into the Edgars group in South Africa.

“This will be a shop in a shop concept, operated by our franchise salon owners and is subject to a successful pilot phase before we proceed with the roll out,” explains Debbie Wolfendale, executive director of Imbalie Beauty.

News in pictures

Following its long history of meeting the unique skincare needs of black men, which has seen it release specialised products for ingrown hairs, razor bumps and oily skin, Lee-Chem Laboratories has now launched the DX Smooth Pro Series Range to the professional salon market.

As a service provider to Bernadine Du Pisanie, the 2017 winner of the International Bodybuilding and Fitness Federation (IBFF) Woman Over 40 Championship and Woman’s Overall Champion, the Hitech Group has been performing the Lumenis LightSheer Infinty Diode Laser Hair Removal and Viora V30 skin tightening treatments on Du Pisanie.

online @ probeauty.co.za

News

13

News

14

Spas could benefit from projected tourism growth South Africa’s hotel / destination spa sector is likely to reap the benefits of an expected growth in tourism, as government implements strategies to attract five million additional tourists to the country within the next five years.

According to SAnewsgov.za, the Department of Tourism will use its R2.1 billion budget to ensure that the tourism industry continues to grow.

“Marketing takes the largest component of this budget at 53%, or R1.1 billion. This amount will be deployed towards increasing our global market share and growing the domestic tourism market in a manner that promotes inclusive growth,” Tourism Minister Tokozile Xasa said recently.

Tourism Deputy Minister Elizabeth Thabethe added: “According to the 2016 hospitality report by Price Waterhouse Coopers, the number of available hotel rooms will rise at a 0.8% compound annual rate to 63,700 in 2020, from 61,100 in 2015.

“We are confident that there is potential for even further growth in tourism in our country. The department has noted growth in overseas arrivals and the increase in the number of star graded establishments.”

She stressed that tourism operators must keep abreast of tourists needs, especially as their needs change in the rapidly developing technology space. “We have to make sure that we provide guests with exceptional products and excellent service.”

Milk Solutions makes headway in overseas market Exclusive sales and distribution rights for South African brand Milk Solutions have been awarded to well-established industry players in England and Ireland in order to build the brand in the trade.

Karen Ellithorne, creator and owner of Milk Solutions, spent close to a year pursuing the registration of her products for EU retail and distribution. Each product underwent stringent safety and performance testing and evaluation against European quality standards.

“We sailed through the product tests with flying colours.

However, the EU has strict legislation relating to the packaging of beauty products and the detailed information you

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must include on labels. We had to adjust and reprint the packaging for 40 products – not a quick and easy task.”

Ellithorne decided to simultaneously upgrade and refresh the Milk Solutions brand identity to better align it with global design trends. The new-look Milk Solutions was launched in Ireland in late 2016 and in England earlier this year.

“Our website (www. milksolutionsbeauty.com) has also undergone a significant upgrade and now includes a trade portal where registered spa and salon owners can order our Professional range products.

“We’re currently in the process of developing and integrating a loyalty programme for our trade

customers. Globally, the beauty industry is dominated by small business owners who have neither the money nor the shelf space to invest in effective and profitable retail of the brands they use.

“Our trade customers will be able to promote and derive revenue from sales of Milk Solutions without holding stock. They will be able to direct their clients to our website to place their orders using a unique code. The code tracks their clients’ purchases and allocates credits to their trade account. These credits are then converted into discounts against their own Milk Solutions orders,” explains Ellithorne.

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Business Tips

18

ask

the experts

Our beauty industry experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.

How do I create a natural make-up look on my clients?

Correct and conceal

Eye work Sweep a matte, skin tone eyeshadow across the lid. You can contour with taupe shadow and finish with clear or brown mascara on the top lashes.

I don’t believe in layering skincare as these products often cause make-up piling. Stick to one tacky moisturiser or primer that caters to your client’s skin type. The purpose of priming is to make foundation look natural rather than mask-like.

If the client has dark discolouration, I start off with a creamy, orange toned corrector. Apply this with a tapping motion and blend with a press and roll movement. Layer flesh toned concealer on top. I like going for a shade lighter than the foundation colour to give a bright eyed look to her face, especially on brides and celebs. Set concealer with a yellow toned, finely milled powder and a tapered brush. Don’t over powder as it emphasises fine lines.

Ace your base

Set it

I use a damp, egg-shaped blending sponge to bounce foundation onto my client’s skin.

Work from the centre of your face outwards as discolouration is most obvious here. Always fade product out from the jawline onto your neck to prevent demarcation lines where the foundation stops.

If a client has a red or pigmented neck, I’ll sometimes use foundation there as well.

Set foundation with a light dusting of translucent face powder on forehead, nose and chin. For this I use a medium-size tapered powder brush. Low shimmer highlighters are a better bet to subtly define the high points of the face like cheekbones, bridge of the nose and Cupid’s bow.

On Caucasian clients, dust pale coral on the apples of the cheeks, blending in the direction of her hairline. On medium to dark complexion clients, opt for warm brown blush.

Career opportunities for make-up artists call for natural looks the majority of the time. Here are the basics in creating a natural look.

Prep the skin

Brow assist If the client has sufficiently full brows, a slick of clear brow gel should suffice. If her brows are absent, use a fine tipped brow pencil to draw in ‘hair’. Sparse brows can be filled with cool-toned brown shadow.

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Lip service Pay attention to the client’s natural lip tone. Is it pink, brown, red or purple? Choose a lip colour in the same colour family to fill her lips.

Rehydrate Mist a setting spray over the face.

Three spritzes are enough. This will not necessarily make the make-up last longer but it will set pigments with a layer of moisture, making the whole look satin finished and glowy.

Ryno Mulder began his career as make-up artist at Bobbi Brown and became style director of Finesse magazine in 2007. His work appears in beauty editorials, makeovers, celebrity features and on the cover of Cosmopolitan, Elle, Marie Claire, Rooi Rose, Sarie, Men’s Health, True Love and Destiny. In 2013 Mulder wrote his first beauty book, Hannon Bothma Maklik Mooi – 10,000 copies sold. He is currently brand manager of Bodyography Cosmetics and continues doing make-up for weddings and events. rynomulder@gmail.com

19 Business Tips

I’m a salon owner interested in taking out insurance for my salon. What sort of cover should I be looking for and what would it emcompass?

My advice to salon and spa professionals is to remember that insurance is here to protect you should the worst happen. Over the last 14 years working in insurance, I have seen the same things happen repeatedly and I would urge consideration of the following, whether a new start up or existing beauty salon or spa.

Underinsurance This issue occurs day in and day out. Remember to insure your contents, fixtures, machinery, stock and equipment for their correct replacement value. Don’t cut corners, underinsurance can proportionately reduce the amount paid out in the event of a claim (average will apply).

Tenant Improvements This is commonly forgotten and is applicable to you if you rent or lease premises, rather than own them. Remember that once you have the keys, any work you commission to improve the premises, whether it be new flooring, air conditioning, partitioning, painting, decorating etc. will not be replaced by your landlord in the event of a fire, flood or serious damage. The premises will be put back to the same condition it was in when you arrived. It is down to you to insure these improvements.

provide massages and other treatments and it is the responsibility of the salon or spa owner to have all these covered.

Public Liability cover is simply not adequate. Please remember that as a beauty and spa professional, you have a duty to protect yourself and your patients, and that Public Liability is simply not enough protection. It doesn’t provide cover for treatment or advice, amongst many other things, only ‘slips, trips and damage to 3rd party property’.

Professional Indemnity

Contingent Liability

This is key to salon and spa owners providing beauty and spa treatments and for those providing any advice and or treatments. Many salons and spas

Salon and spa owners with self-employed persons doing treatments or providing advice, normally Botox/Injectables/higher risk beauty, etc, have a

responsibility to ensure that these professionals are adequately qualified and insured. There is always a risk of a claim falling back on to your business because of their actions, especially if you handle any money, take bookings or advertise on their behalf.

Josh Balen is the commercial director of Balens, a fourth generation, family run insurance broker specialising in the Health, Fitness, Wellbeing and Beauty Sector for over 25 years. Over 90,000 clients rely on Balens to provide them with expert advice and support in setting up and protecting their businesses. insurance@probeauty.co.za

online @ probeauty.co.za

21 Business Trends

Insider Insider, our exclusive business round-up, polled salons and spas in South Africa to track business in June 2017.

Insider Spa Many spas we polled did report an increase in treatment business but one big spa group reported a decrease, thereby bringing down the overall average percentage. Those that experienced good business attributed it to higher guest spend and, unlike salons (as reported below), cold weather seemed to result in an influx of guests. Some spas ran successful winter specials and experienced more weekday traffic than usual during winter months.

Certain hotel spas were affected by a lower hotel occupancy, which saw a decrease in international guests at the spas who spend more. Guests are preferring to book less expensive treatments (ie. manicures, pedicures and waxing) rather than facials.

Most spas polled have introduced at least one new brand this year.

As to what were the most popular nail colours over the winter months, neutral colours and nudes, pinks and dark red colours were the most requested by clients.

Insider Salon Winter chills apparently led to a reduction of clients visiting salons in June, with 67% of you reporting that treatment business took a nosedive during the winter season. Many of you also attributed the decline to the current economic climate.

Average room treatment occupancy was polled at a safe 54%.

Our survey further revealed that only 11% of you saw an increase in retail business, mainly because clients would much rather buy directly from suppliers and/or retail stores.

We asked which nail colour or shade was the most popular with clients in winter and light pinks and deep reds were ranked the highest.

From the statistics surveyed for June, most of you do not shy away from introducing new brands into your salons. One owner revealed that she prefers to use products that she is familiar with, hence the last time she introduced a new brand was about two years ago. Other salon owners, on the other hand, say they introduced new brands soon after the Professional Beauty Cape Town Expo in April. PB

The month in numbers Average treatment room occupancy

Average treatment room occupancy

67 %

54 %

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN JUNE 2017 COMPARE WITH JUNE 2016?

40% Better

2% 58% SAME

WORSE

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN JUNE 2017 COMPARE WITH JUNE 2016?

50% 10 40% % WORSE

Better

SAME

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN JUNE 2017 COMPARE WITH JUNE 2016?

22% 11% 67% Better

SAME

WORSE

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN JUNE 2017 COMPARE WITH JUNE 2016?

11% Better

45% 44% WORSE

SAME online @ probeauty.co.za

BUSINESS

as usual,

or not?

In a technologically savvy world filled with information at consumers’ fingertips and choice overload, it has become increasingly important to communicate your point of difference to stand out from the crowd, writes Diana van Sittert.

B

usiness has never been as challenging as it is in South Africa today. There are many factors influencing this, the main factor being the changing end consumer. Every business should know their ever-evolving consumer inside out and outside in, to adapt their business model and conversations to maintain consumer loyalty and gain new consumers.

Customisation

Success lies in offering choice but no more than three choices in a specific category. tips that will make your business stand out and talk to the needs of the consumer to gain and maintain their loyalty:

The key lies in three

The psychology of the consumer is complex but subject to influence when the right approach is used.

Let’s look at a few of the tricks and

The consumer wants choice but too many choices confuse the consumer and results in the decision to decline a purchase.

How many brands do you stock?

How many treatment options do you have per skin condition or body area? How many promotions do you have on offer? Success lies in offering choice but no more than three choices in a specific category. One very affordable option, one middle of the road price and a more expensive option will typically lead the consumer to purchase the middle of the road option and ensure that she / he does not decline a purchase because of choice overload.

Once the consumer has made her choice from the three options above, she / he wants to feel unique and have a tailor made treatment. This is where customisation within a treatment can gain or discourage the next visit to your business. Are all the treatments the same, or do you customise according to his / her specific need on that day? Is every treatment slightly different from the previous treatment and do you communicate that difference so that she / he feels that their treatment has been thought through and enhanced for their needs and benefit?

Portfolio of evidence No photographer would gain new business without the use of a portfolio of evidence.

Consumers want to know what they are buying into and the expected result. The skin cannot be Photoshopped if the result did not pan out as expected, so why is it acceptable to treat the consumer’s skin without proof or evidence of your work? Start your own before and after portfolio of evidence and share this with your consumer. This will create a rapport and decrease unrealistic >

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Business Tips

25

Business Trends

26 new treatments or products, the consumer has already bought into it, which decreases the need for hard selling.

Project planning

expectations. It also empowers you as a business to know that you have the right therapists and the right brands on board.

Time and the lack thereof The consumer today is time stretched and she / he wants to know how you will fit into the little time they have to care for themselves. The therapist should build the time factor into all of their conversations, i.e. how long a product will last and how much time her / his skincare routine will take daily. The main factor to ask is: ‘How much time do you have?’ and tailor make the routines or treatments accordingly. Do you offer 30- 60- and 90-minute treatment options in your business and do your therapists know which products are multifunctional to save the consumer time?

Listen to me Consumers are the heartbeat of your business, so one would think that their needs and perspective should be a key factor when deciding what you offer in your business. Have you ever asked your consumer what they like or dislike about your business, what they would like to see more of in the form of treatments and products? As a business owner, you can feel like you need to know it all, but today’s consumer feels valued when she / he can share their opinion and when their ideas are applied in the business they frequent. This also creates loyalty that is unsurpassed.

Without you having to sell the

Every consumer needs to be approached as if they are a project. When faced with a project, you cannot run haphazardly into it and expect positive results with no mistakes. A consumer, her needs and her skin are one and the same. When a consumer walks through your door, a thorough needs analysis should be done, a plan created for his / her monthly visit, and constant feedback requested, just as you would do when approaching a project. Consumers want direction from their skin specialist and not a stab in the dark approach. Medical doctors have a file for every patient with every known detail of their patients.

This assist them in formulating the best possible approach for the best possible outcome.

There should be no excuse for you not to do the same in your business.

Invest in your consumers and they will invest in you. PB

Money, money, money Being spoilt for choice, consumers put real thought into who they spend their hard-earned money with and what they spend it on.

The customer wants to see value in their spend. Offering value when a certain spend threshold is reached can increase the bottom line dramatically. Offering, ‘When you buy this, you get this for free’ promotions can solidify the buying decision immediately.

Diana van Sittert, current head of education and business development for pHformula, started her career in the beauty industry 17 years ago as a somatologist, before venturing into education for brands such as Placecol, Nimue and Dermalogica. diana@phformula.com

online @ probeauty.co.za

29

in ‘ultimate’ vitamin infusion

Treatment Review

THE

Lelanie cloete decides to address her skin issues by experiencing the Environ Ultimate Vitamin Therapy Facial.

W

hen I arrived at the Environ Skin Care Institute in Hyde Park, Johannesburg, I explained to somatologist, Marlize Swart, that my skin had been adversely affected by the recent onset of Leaky Gut Syndrome and the auto-immune disease, Hashimoto’s.

Prior to analysing my skin, Swart applied the Environ Pre-Cleanser, an oil-based cleanser that dissolves make-up and any trapped oils without stripping the skin of moisture. She then followed with the multi-functional Clay Masque, which gently micro exfoliates the skin surface.

The mask stayed on for eight minutes, under a steamer, during which Swart performed a hand and arm treatment using Derma-Lac Lotion (containing lactic acid), Alpha Gel (containing glycolic acid), and the Vitamin A, C &E Oil, wrapping my arms in cling film to ensure deep penetration and nourishment.

After about eight minutes, the Cleansing Gel was applied to my face and subsequently removed with a damp compress and followed by an Alpha Hydroxy Acid Toner.

Swart’s diagnosis of my skin revealed sun damage on my décolleté, slight elastosis on the neck and open pores on the nose.

“The bumps on your skin are congestion bumps, probably due to the hormone problems related to Hashimoto’s,” she explained. “There is a bit of redness and cuperose on the cheeks, possibly due to the same reason, and slight dehydration.”

Based on my skin analysis Swart opted to commence my personalised treatment with a light TCA (Trichloroacetic Acid) peel, to target the congestion and dryness, followed by the Ultimate Vitamin Therapy Facial.

“The peel is gentle and unique to Environ. It removes damaged skin cells and leaves the healthy ones intact,” she said.

After about three minutes my skin began to flush and the peel was removed. The next stage involved the Environ Ionzyme DF Machine, which enhances the penetration of high doses of vitamins into the skin.

It has two functionalities – Sonophoresis (soundwaves) and Iontophoresis (electrical current).

Swart applied Colostrum Gel to my whole face and then brushed on the A & C Serum before using the Sonophoresis hand piece on my skin.

For the Iontophoresis phase, Swart applied the Alginate mask – a very thick, rubberising white mask which covered my entire face, leaving only the nostrils free. Electrodes were then attached to the mask and I was given a hand held electrode. These electrical waves gently pushed the active treatment serums into the deeper layers of my skin.

Once she peeled off the mask, Swart applied the Envrion Moisturiser, a Vitamin A, C + E Hydrating Oil Capsule and then RAD SPF 15.

There was an instant difference to my skin – it felt like it had been swamped in moisture and looked fresh and glowing. The following day I noticed that the congestion bumps had virtually disappeared. PB

online @ probeauty.co.za

Case Study

30

A

boutique OFFERING

In opening The Skin Syndicate, owner Farhad Gattoo realised his dream of establishing an institute in Lenasia able to fulfill all hair, beauty and aesthetic needs in a single location. Joanna Sterkowicz reports.

T

he Skin Syndicate represents the first of many aesthetics, laser, hair and day spas that Farhad Gattoo would like to open.

“I have been in the hair and beauty industry for the past 15 years and have worked at various beauty institutes and freelanced as well,” says Gattoo. “That is where I gained my experience and love for the industry.”

Having lived for most of his life in Lenasia, Johannesburg, Gattoo found that there weren’t any salons in the area that could offer

online @ probeauty.co.za

While there are many beauty salons in Lenasia, I would like to think that The Skin Syndicate has taken it to next level.

Also, I wanted to offer patrons a space they could escape to, hence our style and décor is fresh, modern, luxurious and elegant.

everything in one establishment.

“While there are many beauty salons in Lenasia, I would like to think that The Skin Syndicate has taken it to next level. Also, I wanted to offer patrons a space they could escape to, hence our style and décor is fresh, modern, luxurious and elegant.”

The Skin Syndicate is approximately 250sqm in size, with six treatment rooms and five full time therapists.

Spa experience Intent on offering a relaxing spa experience to clients, Gattoo’s treatment menu includes ozone therapy and sauna, as well as a rain shower that clients can use after body exfoliation and body peels.

Says Gattoo: “Our ozone treatment is a transdermal restorative therapy used to regenerate damaged tissues, stimulate energy production, and eliminate chronic inflammation. It provides the body with a full detox on a cellular level. The benefits

Aesthetics

treatment is pain free. HIFU is exclusive to us.”

Spoilt for choice

are endless and it’s an excellent preventative measure against many diseases, such as cancer.”

Singular treatments Exclusive to The Skin Syndicate is the Micro Bubble Facial, which is incorporated with ultrasound and radio frequency for firming and lifting.

“Micro bubbles are ultra-fine oxygen bubbles with molecules smaller than the skin’s pores. This allows the oxygen bubbles to enter the pores and clean them out thoroughly,” explains Gattoo.

“We also offer HIFU (High Intensity Focus Ultrasound), a non-invasive alternative to botox and fillers. The results may last for up to two years and the

Commenting on the brands found at The Skin Syndicate, Gattoo says: “Black Pearl is a product range that needs no introduction. This is luxury at its best – 24K Gold – it doesn’t get better than this.

“RégimA is a locally manufactured product that offers affordable quality for everyone, while we believe that Medi-Hell and Medi-Hand have revolutionised hand and foot treatments.”

In terms of hair, The Skin Syndicate offers Matrix, which Gattoo describes as ‘the best science-based haircare technology and super affordable’. Teeth whitening treatments are offered with Pure Smile, which has no bleaches or harsh chemicals and works in 30 minutes.

A-Z • • • • • •

Aesthetic treatments are offered at The Skin Syndicate by Dr Ayesha Kola.

Says Gattoo: “Dr Kola is a renowned aesthetic doctor and a dear childhood friend. Her gentle and moderate approach to aesthetic treatments (i.e. botox, fillers etc.) is what sets her apart from the rest and made her the perfect to candidate to complement our aesthetic services.”

The Skin Syndicate treatment menu includes: laser hair removal for males and females; spa packages; massage; facial treatments; pedicures; make-up; teeth whitening; men’s barber services; ladies hair; laser lipo; and vascular lesion treatment.

About 80 percent of Gattoo’s clients make use of the hairdressing and barbering services. Currently the salon’s male clientele is about 35% and growing steadily.

Gattoo believes that the strongest point of The Skin Syndicate is that it strives for perfection in everything that it offers.

“It is our policy that every client must leave happy and look forward to returning,” he concludes. PB

Case Study

31

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Helena van der Vyver looks at the three areas that should be in place to run a financially healthy beauty business.

F

rom observation it appears that beauty therapists could be more right-brain dominant than left-brain dominant. The left side of the brain performs tasks that have to do with logic, such as in science and mathematics, while the right hemisphere performs tasks that have to do with creativity and the arts.

As a result, many a therapist that becomes a salon/spa owner/ manager is challenged with the planning, admin and financial side of the business. One tends to think that this could be the reason a large percentage of salons/spas close annually.

Financial structure

can’t expect to do the same and have different and better results.

It is crucial to be aware what your break-even income target is so that if things don’t go according to plan, you at least know the level you should never go below. Do note that your budget and cash flow plan is not the same. Your budget is not a reflection of your cash flow status.

Once your budget is in place, the income target must be broken up between the team for them to do their bit in order to achieve the budget. According to each employee’s experience and achievement, they can have a customised target and growth plan. Do note that if one employee does not achieve her targets and is not profitable in her column, it will affect the company negatively (i.e. not being profitable, etc). It is crucial that each employee runs a profitable column.

It is crucial to be aware what your break-even income target is so that if things don’t go according to plan, you at least know the level you should never go below.

Are your business name and company registered? If your income is one million in any period of 12 consecutive months are you registered for VAT? One million per year equates to approximately R83,334 per month. Have you chosen the best type of company for your business set-up to benefit optimally financially and/or does it align with your vision and goals?

Take note of this relevant quote from Pierre Teilhard de Chardin: “The past has revealed to me the structure of the future.”

Do you annually look at your history patterns of growth – income % split monthly to the total income annually and combine this with the vision for your company to put together your financial budget for the next year?

An annual budget normally runs from March to February, but some run from January to December, or July to June.

What type of income growth do you want to show in the next financial year? A good starting point for growth is 30%. Some companies aim as high as 50% growth. Here your marketing plan for the next year is key to assist you to achieve these new targets. You

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Business Tips

sound advice

33

Business Tips

34

The norm to go by is that a therapist must bring in at least six times her/his basic salary in order to be profitable. This is a general formula as commission structures vary a lot and might thus not work for all. Also, some businesses have a high rental, which could require more than six times your basic.

number of new clients, total new clients that return, etc. This will show you if you are on the right path or not.

Analyse your income and expenses monthly to see where you are going right or wrong and focus on what needs changing.

Strategy

Income

Hope is not a strategy. Strategy’s essence is what NOT to do.

Each business must have a strategy that is their angle and core for growth. This involves planning, managing and activating your plans, as well as marketing them where required. A good start would be to refuse to have a ‘winter’ season or slow months.

There are salons that do better in winter than in summer.

It is key to know your business’ USP (Unique Selling Point). Is it aesthetics, massage, slimming, facials, parking, location, hours, standard of excellence, etc? Then, leverage off your USP and use it as a tool to attract clients. Whatever you do it is key to be consistent.

What we don’t measure we can’t manage, so ensure that you set goals and measure them on a regular basis. Be it that you want to increase your spend per client, retail percentage of income, total

Know your income. You should have different streams of income, e.g. treatments, retail/products, gift voucher sales, rental/commission from on-site doctor (botox/fillers)/specialist (permanent makeup), courses, on-line sales, etc. It is important to know your income % split.

A healthy income split is: Treatments 65%, Retail 30% and Gift Vouchers 5%. A ‘Next Level’ income split is: Treatments 45%, Retail 45%, Gift Vouchers 10%. An easy idea to determine what your income should be is 10 times your rental. If that is impossible at this stage, then start with five times your rental and work towards 10 times. You want to get to the level where you generate ‘cream profit’ as all the basic expenses are covered.

Much more can be said around this topic, however for now let’s wrap up with a final thought – be client focused, not competition focused and you will grow your income. PB

Helena Van Der Vyver of 1ne s.p.a has been a business coach for salons and spas for several years.

She has 24 years of experience in the industry, ranging from therapist to operations manager for over eight spas. info@1nespa.co.za

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Business Tips

37

physics of real life THE

Isaac Newton taught that objects at rest tend to stay at rest and objects in motion tend to stay in motion. This is as true for people as it is for falling apples, writes Mimmie Lancaster.

W

e all want to grow, both personally and within our business environment, however this process can be slowed down if you are a procrastinator. We all know that putting things off is accompanied by stress. Most of the time, the things we procrastinate over are not difficult and time consuming tasks – we just need to get into them.

I have found that it helps to apply the 5-10 minute rule. This simply means taking 5-10 minutes every morning to list and prioritise the things that need to be done. Get stuck into the things that are top priority and get them done during the first hour of the day. Once you start doing some of the things on the list, it becomes easier to continue doing them.

Guilt and regret are two emotions that are very draining so tackling tedious tasks first thing in the morning will allow you to feel better for the rest of the day and also reward you with a sense of accomplishment. This in turn will enable you to invest time in people and causes that really matter.

Goal posts In order to have a real impact in your company and on staff, it is essential to work towards a common goal. A good place to start is with your company’s mission statement, which defines the company’s goals and ethics. It should state what the business does for its customers, employees and owners. If your mission statement is vague, re-write it in a short sentence or paragraph, keeping it simple and concise.

The mission statement can even be ‘unpacked’ further by assigning tasks and responsibilities to each employee in order to show, in a very practical manner, how the entire team will achieve the goals as set out in the statement. Make sure that the statement and the unpacking thereof is positioned where all the members of your team can see it and read it on a regular basis.

Create a vision board to guide you and your team’s journey towards reaching objectives and dreams. Make sure you include quotes and affirmations, as well as the awards you and your team want to achieve.

Another advantage of this visual stimulation ‘tool’ is the law of attraction. This is the ability to attract into our lives that which we are constantly focusing on. The more we ponder on constructive thoughts, the more positive we become and start attracting what is more positive for ourselves. PB

Mimmie Lancaster has been involved in the beauty and spa business for 30 years. Her company, Symmetry World, delivers independent advice to spas and salons to build and improve their performance. Lancaster’s ongoing focus on spa trends, aesthetic techniques and international product development keeps her at the forefront of the industry. mimmielancaster@gmail.com online @ probeauty.co.za

Business Tips

38

Fundamentals of

finance As a business owner or manager it is your responsibility to develop a financially strong and successful business, meaning that financial intelligence is more important than ever, writes Debbie Merdjan.

E

very spa or salon owner needs to understand the fundamentals of finance.

You need to take control of your finances and understand every single aspect of them – from budgets to financial statements, stock taking, salaries, cash flow, tax, capital, equity financing, checks, balances and more.

All those words may terrify you but it provides impetus for you to educate yourself. Make sure you know what is going on. Sure, get a professional to handle your finances, but do not glaze over them. It is vital that you get familiar with the ins and outs of cash flow, interest, anything and everything financial. You will be in control, you will know exactly where you are, and you will have a profitable spa.

Remember, there will be good months and bad. If you have prepared in advance, you will be able to weather the storms. And, if you have a solid financial plan, cash savings and a good credit record, your spa will survive.

Remember that the bigger your business gets, the more important control of your financials become.

It’s important that you know what your accountant, financial advisor or planner is talking to you about.

Don’t be scared to ask questions. Maybe take a short financial course. The more knowledge you arm yourself with, the more successful you will be.

Targets Every day you should be aware of your sales targets, if you are achieving them or what the variance is to catch up. Every week you should have a weekly sales report and at the end of each month, monthly income and expenditure, budgets and stock reports. Your accountant will do this for you but you must be able to understand the figures.

You also need to be on top of your payables and receivables. You never want to get into the situation where you cannot pay your suppliers. Staying liquid means having a certain amount of cash on hand at all times. Don’t let any payment plans slip either.

Less is more Although you may think this is a given, keep your expenses low. It is very easy to waste money on small things that are unnecessary such as products being wasted or lights being left on – they all add up.

Educate your staff and let them know that the lower the expenses of the spa are, the more money they will make in the end. And don’t feel shy to negotiate with your suppliers. Always ask for discounts. Monitor and manage your costs at all times.

And finally – focus on those areas of your spa that make money. Work out ways to get new clients and to keep the old ones. Be smart, be savy, offer brilliant treatments and always – be financialy aware. PB

Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the Camelot Group. She has been in the industry since 1982, started Camelot International Health & Skin Care Education in 1987, and opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997. dm@camelothealth.co.za

online @ probeauty.co.za

f

In

41

uplifting

Business Tips

staff mentoring

your

through

Implementing a mentorship program will yield multiple benefits, increase business success, promote self-growth and foster better staff relationships. Ayesha Rajah explains why.

A

ccording to MangingMentors.com, mentoring is most often defined as a professional relationship in which an experienced person (the mentor) assists another (the mentee) in developing specific skills and knowledge that will enhance the less-experienced person’s professional and personal growth.

It is a way of empowering your staff to reach their full potential through your guidance, experience and knowledge. I have done this over the years and only recognised its true worth when I recently embarked on the Global Mentorship Program.

Mentoring vs coaching Often these two terms are confused, or thought to be the same thing. A coach is typically someone that you hire and who bases the relationship around objectives and goals. Much like a teacher-student relationship, there is a level of direction but with attached compliancy.

A mentor, on the other hand, is someone that you have a personal relationship with, has a vested interest in you and is there to guide and support you through your career. This is more like advice and guidance through an approach based on self-discovery, in a low pressure environment.

Insights Here are some insights on how to approach mentoring: • The relationship is seen as a long term development of the mentee.

• Identify area of growth such as operations, financials, PR, marketing, etc.

• As there is a learning process for the mentor from the feedback and insights of the mentee, it is a mutually beneficial two-way relationship.

• Try to think of it as a partnership where both the mentee and mentor have choices: i.e. What is the duration of the program? How often is a meeting required?

• Mentors often think that they need to have all the answers but the role does not require you to be ‘Yoda, the Jedi Master, rather a great sounding board for the mentee to discover their own direction.

• Never provide complete solutions, rather ask questions to skim the surface so the mentee can come up with the solution.

In a coachingandmentoring.com survey, mentees stated that the most significant things the mentor did was: ‘listened and understood me’ and, ‘built my confidence and trust in myself, empowered me to see what I could do’.

Common thread I found that there was a common thread of issues faced between my spa manager and the Global Mentorship Program mentee. It seems to run across therapists who have transitioned into leadership roles. Here are some of the issues that may arise: • Finding their own leadership style that balances the friendships cultivated with their colleagues and respect earned in their new authoritative role.

• Staying motivated.

• Time management.

• How to work out budgets, costing, stock control and all other financially related responsibilities.

• How to handle both customer-based and internal staff conflicts.

• Understanding customer service vs customer experience.

Ayesha Rajah, MD of A&I Importers and owner of Urban Bliss Wellness Spa, has been involved in the spa and skincare industry for more than 20 years. Rajah also facilitates training for Phytomer, Priori and SkinDoctors. ayesharajah@ai-importers.co.za

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Business Tips

42

right stuff THE

Lauren Gibson looks at an all important principle that should form the basic tenet of any business, namely integrity.

W

hat is business integrity? I suppose integrity can be easily explained as doing the right thing, even when no one else is around. Living each day with core values and the DNA of your brand.

It is almost like having a moral compass that never sways, moves or changes your decisions in any given situation and ensures you stay true to who you are.

So why is it important to have business integrity?

Surely if you are a decent person and you have integrity, then your business automatically ticks that box? Well, not necessarily.

According to Brian Tracey (a leading motivational speaker) in an article in Entrepreneur magazine, honesty and integrity in the workplace are amongst the most valuable assets or tools a leader can have.

Real reality Leaders are not afraid of the reality principle – that is seeing the world or workplace as it really is and not how we would like it to be. I suppose you can regard this as reality versus perception. We often create this ideal perception in our heads – but is it real?

Telling the truth or unpacking a messy situation is ugly. However, why would you want to delude yourself or others?

Rather face the ugly truth and come up with an incredible strategy – this makes you courageous as a leader and business owner and requires a certain amount of openness. This means being open to the idea that you may fail if you refuse to question your assumptions. If not, it could make you arrogant and blind in business instead of confident and a role model to others.

Big question My question (of course) to all of you is going to be: how do you and your business display integrity every day?

You have three shareholders in your business: you (as the business owner); your team or staff (as the people driving your goals and achieving your success or results); and your clients (the people who love your business, spread the word, market for you and help you grow).

If you can honestly say you operate every day with integrity to all of your shareholders then you deserve a half day spa treat.

It is often so easy to let integrity slip in a business and on a personal level when you become extremely busy or too comfortable with team and clients.

Make it a habit to check in with yourself on how you rate on your integrity scale, both personally and in your business, on a daily basis. You will be surprised at how small behaviour shifts the world. PB

Lauren Gibson has worked for Dermalogica for four years. She has been an educator, sales brand consultant, and, more recently, the regional manager for Cape Town. Her passion lies in up-skilling people and unlocking potential in businesses. laureng@dermalogica.co.za

online @ probeauty.co.za

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Spa Focus

44

Heaven on earth Bringing design and therapy together was an important component in the major refurbishment of the Saxon Spa in Sandton, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

W

hen spa manager Tanya Lopes was brought on board by the Saxon Hotel, Villas & Spa to oversee the overhaul of the Saxon Spa, she wanted to create a wow factor, while simultaneously paying attention to the little details that would contribute to a holistic, value for money, 5-star spa experience for guests.

Brown and Harnn) are displayed. Lopes continues: “La Prairie is a core brand of ours and it suits our prestigious client base, with hero ingredients that include caviar, gold and platinum. To qualify as a La Prairie Spa you have to go through a rigorous interview process.”

One only has to do a short tour of the spa to witness that wow factor – with its understated but supremely elegant copper-tinged décor, spacious treatment rooms (each with its own ‘heavenly’ name and each with its own foldaway shower), serene sleep area, and extensive hydro facilities that include a Hammam, Himalayan Salt Sauna, rasul chamber, flotation tank, steam room, indoor heated Jacuzzi and cold plunge pool, and outdoor Vichy Shower and heated pool.

“When I joined the spa it had been in existence for 10 years and the Saxon Hotel had already outlined that a refurbishment was required as the spa was looking tired and outdated,” explains Lopes. “I noticed that there were pockets of space that were not used, such as the corridor leading from the lift to reception, which was completely empty. So I turned it into an interactive retail area.”

This is where the spa’s high end brands (La Prairie, Elemis, QMS Medicosmetics, Margaret Dabbs, Molton

Lopes believe that a spa needs to target all five senses to encrust the spa journey into the guest’s mind. To this end she developed the Saxon Spa Signature Fragrance, and its alluring aroma is evident throughout.

Guests also embark on a musical journey in the spa, as each area features a different musical genre.

Once in their treatment rooms, guests have a choice of three playlists – Traditional Spa Music; Soft Vocals; and Spa Relax.

Lighting varies throughout the spa – with the reception, spa café and manicure bar brightly lit, and other areas more moody, notably the treatment rooms, pedicure station, hydro facilities and sleep area.

Five senses

Our sauna also includes Himalayan Salt and is especially beneficial for respiratory problems

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Journey The customer’s spa journey is very important to the Saxon Hotel, which is why Lopes moved reception to a position that allows front desk staff to make eye contact with guests as they walk down the corridor

Spa Focus

45

from the lift. There is a waiting area, complete with refreshment station, behind reception, and a spa café to one side, decked out with copper cutlery.

“Copper is a key design element for us,” continues Lopes, “not only in terms of décor but from a therapeutic perspective as well. Historically copper has been known as a healing metal for both body and soul.

It has re-mineralising properties and is bacteria resistant. All our pedicure bowls are made from copper.”

The spa’s change rooms, which were previously located in between treatment rooms, were moved to a more secluded part of the spa.

A new area that has been added is the manicure bar.

“This is not our core business but a big part of the spa experience, and the final part of the guest’s journey,” comments Lopes.

The Saxon Spa has always incorporated a hairdressing salon. This area has been reduced from its original size and it is now called The Hair Spa. It focuses on treatments and has Shiatsu chairs at the basins so that clients can enjoy a massage while their hair is washed.

Tanya Lopes

Salt In each treatment room hangs a spectacular, bespoke, signature Saxon Spa chandelier, made from Himalayan Salt and recycled glass.

“Himalayan Salt helps to ionize the air in the room and aids in restoring sleep patterns. In addition, it obscures the ceiling so guests feel like they are immersed in the chandelier.

“Our sauna also includes Himalayan Salt and is especially beneficial for respiratory problems,” adds Lopes.

treatment, which includes crystal healing,” explains Lopes.

Reiki masters perform the sound therapy treatment, which is spiritual in nature and utilises Tibetan gongs and bowls to balance the chakras, while the guest is suspended in the bed.

Wet Treatment Zone A new addition to the spa’s Wet Treatment Zone is the Hammam, which means ‘bath’ in Turkish. It features heated granite slabs, on which clients experience one of two different types of body cleanses, either Savoir Noir (with Turkish soap made from ground black olives, Eucalyptus oil and olive oil), or a specialised foam soap specially developed by the spa and pumped through a pipe.

The Wet Treatment Zone also houses the Himalayan Salt Sauna, steam room, rasul chamber, flotation tank, indoor heated Jacuzzi and cold plunge pool, and outdoor Vichy Shower and heated pool.

There is also a raw juice bar in this area, as what guests consume is very important to the spa, hence the health conscious spa menu.

Eden Adjacent to the outdoor heated pool is Eden, a particularly special couple’s treatment room with glass walls and ceiling, so that guests can have their treatments under the skyline.

“A lot of our client base are couples who are looking to spend quality time together. Eden was a new addition to the spa during the refurbishment, and once guests see the room, this is where they want their treatments,” concludes Lopes.

In overseeing the spa’s overhaul, Lopes worked closely with Stephen Falcke, the designer responsible for the Saxon Hotel’s design, to ensure a faithful crossover of style. PB

Sound therapy While the original Saxon Spa did have a sound therapy room, including a flotation water bed (the only one of its kind in South Africa), the room has been renovated and the Himalayan salt, which is signature to all the new rooms, was brought in.

“In terms of the treatment offering, we extended the existing offering by including the advanced sound

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Spa Focus

46

At your

service

Unless you know what your clients want there is no way you will ever achieve mind blowing customer service, writes Marisa Dimitriadis.

T

he days of how nice your spa looks or what product brands you carry being the customer retaining factor are over.

Customer service, the experience of the time spent with you and how that buyer feels when they leave is what will determine whether they return or go somewhere else.

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I think that the sooner we all get over the moaning and groaning that the industry and business are tough, the quicker we can start focusing on finding the opportunities that are out there and looking for more creative and innovative ways to make money.

Start by accepting and embracing the fact that business has changed and that the nature of how and why the guest buys is

Spa Focus

47 different. Stop complaining about your staff and analyse how you can keep your staff longer and get them selling more and how to attract and keep the guest.

Feedback Over the last eight months I’ve spoken to approximately 550 buyers/guests and 50% of them said they look for special offers and better value for money, and 50% said the service delivery was lacking. This ranges from insufficient knowledge of the person taking the booking, to the welcome received on arrival, to the hygiene in the salon/spa, to the therapist’s lack of attention to detail and genuine interest in their personal needs.

Specials and value Most people buy on perceived value. Think about it, if you are going to buy a box of paper and you are offered a box of paper that is more expensive than the one you usually buy but the paper is bio degradable and 1c per page is going to a charity, you will be more likely to buy that box than the cheaper one. Why? Because you have more reason to buy it.

Make sure you are giving your client enough value and reasons to buy what you are selling. That means giving them enough information, but it also means that you need to understand their needs in order to give them that value.

Don’t make the mistake of

Customer service, the experience of the time spent with you and how that buyer feels when they leave is what will determine whether they return or go somewhere else.

giving a special price or promotion offer on treatments they don’t book because you want to promote other new interesting treatments. If your clientele is predominantly nails, then offer a promotion on nails, and if your clientele is

predominantly facial, then offer a promotion on facials.

Service delivery This is where we go into depth about mind blowing customer service and what is going to keep your guests loyal and referring their friends to you. To make this simple, let’s look at the points of what you should be doing to ensure that your service is mind blowing.

1. Easy, simple booking of treatments. If you can get online bookings, even better, but with online bookings your ability to upsell is limited. However on confirmation of the booking you can easily upsell the treatment.

If you are not online then the greeting when answering the phone has to be welcoming and comforting. The person making the booking must know inside out what the treatments consist of and must be able to offer an upsell to every single treatment booked. A reminder/ confirmation of the booking is a MUST. Whether it is by SMS with a simple answer YES to confirm or a telephonic reminder makes no difference – it is essential to do this.

2. Safe parking. If you are able to add simple little extras like a car wash while the client is in treatment even better. Make your guest’s life simpler and easier. >

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Spa Focus

48 3. A warm and friendly welcome when they enter the salon/spa.

Stand, smile and a hug if you know the guest goes a long way to keeping them loyal. It’s all about how you make them feel.

Your front desk team has to look like a million dollars, well everyone must, but the first impression is what clients will never forget. Therefore, front desk staff must be neat, in full make-up (including lipstick), act professionally and greet customers with a big smile. If that is not how your guests are currently greeted, change it immediately. To give you a little insight into how important the welcome of the guest is, most of the motor car dealerships now have a guest relations person totally responsible for greeting the buyer and offering all sorts of added bits and pieces to the experience of potentially buying a car. Take your front desk and guest

communications very seriously as this impacts the service delivery.

4. Clean and fresh surroundings.

As boring and common sense as this sounds, remember that the guest sees a lot more than you do when they come in for treatments. You can never clean enough.

5. Meet clients’ treatment expectations. The only way you can do this is by finding out what their expectation is, what they want to achieve and what their concerns are so you can help them. This means effective consultation, not 30 minutes of it but a quick 5-minute needs analysis. Then meet that expectation and give the guest exactly what they asked for.

Plus show genuine interest in them. If a person feels love and that someone genuinely cares, they will come back for more of that, guaranteed.

6. Deal with complaints there and

Marisa Dimitriadis is founder and owner of The Spa Consultants. marisa@thespaconsultants.co.za

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then. Do not let the guest leave your premises without dealing with a complaint. With complaints the first rule is to let the person speak even if the complaining takes half an hour.

So be it. They want to be heard.

Secondly, once they have spoken, ask the following: ‘How can I make this right and better for you?’ and then listen again.

Please stop trying to defend yourself and offering freebees upfront. Sometimes all the guest wants is to be heard and to know that you will fix it and make it better. If they expect a free treatment and it is within reason, then deliver on that.

Most times your most loyal guests are the ones who started off complaining and were unhappy and you managed to fix it. After a complaint guest has left, ensure to follow up with an email once again acknowledging their feedback and ensuring them that you have taken the necessary steps to fix it.

7. Follow up between treatments.

If you want your guest to come back, best you remind them you are waiting for them and care about them, otherwise someone else will do that for you and then your guest will go off to buy somewhere else.

A simple phone call to ask how they are feeling, or how their products are doing, will suffice just to show you care. Then, if you have a special offer, WhatsApp them to offer it to them first. Get your mind around the power and efficiency of WhatsApp communication as it is instant and taking over.

I will leave you with a famous quote we all know but don’t really do much about it.

‘Insanity is doing the same things over and over again and expecting different results’’ – Albert Einstein. PB

Neck & Bust Treatments

50

WIN by a NECK The neck and décolleté areas, particularly in as sun exposed a country as South Africa, are not only highly visible parts of the body, but among the quickest to show signs of ageing.

F

irst there was the ‘turkey neck’ (saggy, wrinkled skin caused by ageing, sun damage and insufficient skincare) and now the ‘tech neck’ (horizontal lines on the neck caused by constantly looking down at phones and tablets). Either way, it translates to a neck that looks anything other than youthful.

As therapists will know, the skin structure of the neck and décolleté is much thinner and more delicate than the face. There is also less fat

A sagging skin must be the most difficult thing in the world to correct completely other than with surgery. support and fewer sebaceous glands, as well as weaker muscles.

“A sagging skin must be the most difficult thing in the world to correct completely other than with

Booster

Targeted formula

The SIX Tightening & Firming Booster Elixir Serum has undergone clinical trials, showing a 14.5% improvement in skin firmness in just under two months (56 days).

Active ingredients include fermiskin (shiitake mushrooms) to protect collagen fibres and combat the degradation of collagen and elastin fibres. Retilactyl D (black pepper berries) brings structure and plumpness back to sagging skin.

From QMS Medicosmetics, Neck & More is formulated with specialised active ingredients that target the individual needs of the neck, décolletage and breast areas. Plant oils leave the skin supple, natural extracts firm contours and intensive moisturising protects from premature ageing.

Say the experts at QMS: “This is

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surgery,” says Marisa Dimitriadis, founder of SIX. “Therefore you should be encouraging clients around the age of 35 to 40 to use a firming serum to prevent the loss of elasticity and protect the collagen fibres in the skin of the neck to delay sagging.

“Serums have the ability to work at a deeper level within the skin, especially if they are formulated with a biphasic gel delivery system that really gets to work on the area it is most needed.”

an anti-ageing sensation for the sensitive skin of the neck, décolleté and breast areas.

Intensive moisturising complexes effectively tighten the skin and reduce fine lines and wrinkles.

Valuable oils extracted from exotic plants strengthen the connective tissue and give the skin a soft and smooth appearance. The ‘lifting’ extract of the West African kigelia fruit is scientifically proven to restore the firmness and contouring of the breast.”

Intensive cream Babor’s Research and Innovation Center has developed special intensive care products that pamper any type of skin according to its individual needs – ranging

from moisture to detoxification and protection.

The Babor Skinovage Intensifier Firming Neck & Décolleté Cream incorporates the active catalyst, OsmoTec, and Alpine stem cells to promote smooth, elastic skin in the neck and décolleté area. Q10 activates cellular energy, while light-reflecting pigments have an instantly refreshing effect. Collagen plumps up the skin from the inside.

Perfect renewal Phytomer’s Décolleté Parfait Renewing Cream is a fresh, soft gel-cream that helps defend the neck and décolleté area from premature ageing. It protects skin from ageing caused by the sun, while providing the skin with renovating and brightening ingredients.

The cream reduces the appearance of ‘creased skin’ and helps to fade liver spots. Skin is visibly smoother and the skin glows with renewed youth.

Active ingredients include Glasswort Oil, which moisturises, corrects wrinkles and smooths skin. Brightening Marine Complex helps reduce the appearance of liver spots.

Three-phase formula Dermalogica helps reverse the signs of premature ageing and photo-damage with the concentrated Power Rich treatment, applied directly to

areas of concern.

The three-phase formula helps smooth away fine lines, increase elasticity and maintain moisture balance.

Power Rich also helps firm and increase skin resilience with bio-stimulating botanicals that help trigger collagen production. It aids in smoothing away fine lines with non-irritating exfoliation agents.

Growth factor Acting as a growth factor stimulator, DermaFix SND Corrector signals the fibroblasts to increase collagen and elastin production by means of improved skin cell-to-cell communication.

Says Ursula Hunt of DermaFix: “The inclusion of Vitamin A Propionate within the DermaFix SND Corrector revitalises and balances the skin within 28 days of use. Overall skin homeostasis is restored and as a result, restoration of firmness to the neck and décolleté occurs by accelerated dermal healing.”

She notes that DermaFix BodyBright may further be included for use alongside the DermaFix SND Corrector, providing the skin with superior brightening benefits for the improvement of environmental damage on the décolleté.

Additional home-care support may be obtained by using DermaFix Ferulic + C + E on a daily basis, providing the skin with essential anti-oxidant

protection against the damaging effects of the sun that leads to a break in collagen and elastin.

“DermaFix PowerBlending may be considered as an in-clinic option for the improvement of the neck area, providing an instant lift within 20 minutes of application to visibly reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. PowerBlending provides neck firming benefits, while minimising the appearance of jowls around the jawline,” explains Hunt.

The treatment makes use of the following DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care products: DermaFix Collagen Conformer (especially beneficial for the eye, neck and décolleté areas and formulated with soy protein along with Acetyl Tetrapeptides 9 and 11); DermaFix DermaPeptide utilises Argireline Acetyl Hexapeptide – 8 to target facial wrinkles); and DermaFix DeCeLeRate, which includes Matrixyl 3000, Argireline and Matrixyl Synthé6 Smart Peptide Technology to boost and rebuild the skin’s structural, essential components, thereby regulating cell activity, wound repair and tissue remodelling for a youthful, more radiant skin.

‘Red Carpet’ Md:ceuticals offers the Red Carpet peel and firm treatment to rejuvenate and tighten the skin and to prevent further ageing on the neck and décolleté.

Says Ana Engelbrecht: “The treatment consists of applying our unique md:peel 40% Pyruvic 10% Lactic, and straight afterwards the md:complex Firming Regen.

Pyruvic has a very small Pka, with a smaller molecular structure than glycolic acid, allowing this concentration of acids to >

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Neck & Bust Treatments

51

Neck & Bust Treatments

52 penetrate deeper into the dermal layers of the epidermis with a deeper dermal remodeling.

“Md:peel 40% Pyruvic 10% Lactic Acid is considered a medium strength peel, not because we see skin shedding at a dermal level, but because of the deeper dermal stimulation.

Peeling allows active ingredients to penetrate the skin deeper than a normal application, due to the removal of dead cells and opening the water channels of the skin. Because of this we apply the next active, md:complex Firming Regen.”

Filling the gap

firmness is the ultimate in anti-ageing, achieved by boosting natural actives, proven to restore elasticity, tightness, lifting, smoothing, improving colour, texture and skin health.”

She notes that RégimA SpaZone Facial and Body Treatment products all contain a unique new patented dynamic ingredient categorised as a ‘Second Skin’ active.

“This amazing breakthrough active is an Interpenetrating BioPolymer, derived from a warm water algae grown off the Philippines and a South American shrub, considered ‘The Green Gold of the Incas’. This EcoDesigned active, obtained by ‘Green’ cross-linking, without any exogenous chemicals in the manufacturing process, is world first technology, providing ‘Second Skin’ efficacy, with intense lifting properties, plus the unique tight cross-linking polysaccharide network acts as a shield against harmful substances, allergens, pollutants, irritants,” says Faucitt.

From the doctor

RégimA SpaZone recently released an in-spa/salon Neck + Breast Refining Complex Masque, as well as Home Care for the Neck + Breast, ensuring continuity of care.

“The delicate neck, breast and décolleté are often ignored, until they show signs of ageing, solar damage, patchy pigmentation and neglect,” says RégimA’s Jacqui Faucitt. “Until very recently there has been a gap in South African spa treatment options specifically for neck, décolleté and breasts. We have filled that niche by combining four exciting new technologies.

“Limiting degradation of collagen I and III fibres reduces skin fragility. Remodelling the contours of the neck and breasts and increasing density and

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The Doctor Eckstein Décolleté Supreme Neck Cream is a rich, essential cream developed to maintain the elasticity of the skin around the delicate neck and décolleté area. It helps to vitalise skin functions and has a smoothing effect on the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

This product contains marine collagen, sterols, wheat germ extract, precious natural moisture retaining factor, vitamins A and E and the finest orange oil.

Also from Doctor Eckstein, the Beautipharm Bust Gel is a highly effective gel especially suitable for the sensitive, delicate area of the bust and its surrounding tissue. It contains a powerful natural complex that helps provide firming, toning and moisturising benefits for the skin.

The product contains kigelia africana extract, panthenol and glucomannans derived from the root of amorphophallus konjac.

Volumising effect

Morpho Bust from Ericson Laboratoire is original in the sense that it has a volumising effect due to high performance formulae which draw their efficacy from the heart of original active ingredients.

To enable reshaping bust contours it is now possible to stimulate the fabrication of fat in situ (the main component of the mammary gland) by combining three action mechanisms to redensify the adipose tissue.

Morpho Bust is a complete revitalising treatment of the décolleté and bust with targeted actions on the size of the breasts, as well as on stretch marks and microcapillaries for better support of the bust.

Ericson Laboratoire has chosen a new active ingredient to promote a full and shapely bust: Volufiline. This draws its properties from anemarrhena, a herbaceous plant that grows wild in Japan and the northern part of China. Volufiline is a phytosterol without oestrogen and progestin activity or glucocorticoid and testosterone activity. PB

56 Hair Removal

Hypoallergenic wax

Hairysituation Possibly one of the least glamorous services offered at salons, spas and medical aesthetic clinics, hair removal is certainly ones the biggest in terms of demand and revenue generation. Professional Beauty looks at the latest hair removal systems, in both the product and machine categories.

A

ccording to Helena Rodrigues, training and marketing director of SA Beauty Distributors, some 12,000 tons of body hair is removed every year.

Rodrigues continues: “Global hair removal sales are worth R18.5 billion. It’s estimated that 99% of women remove their

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body hair one way or another.

However, only 10 to 12% of women go to beauty salons – this offers distributors a strong potential for conquering a new market.”

She notes that waxing treatments equate to approximately 48% of sales in certain salons and waxes represent 61.3% of the hair removal market.

Says Rodrigues: “The Cirépil range of specific formulations from Perron Rigot ensures therapists can provide the best match for their client’s needs (including clients with sensitive skins), making Cirépil an extension of their skincare services.

“Recently launched hypoallergenic wax,Cirépil Cashmere, was developed with a new patented high performance cosmetic material that optimises hair removal for increased efficiency during the wax service, while yielding even softer, smoother results and comfort for your client. Its smooth texture with comfortable application temperature allows you to perform precise hair removal on the most sensitive skins, with less redness and ultra-soft results.

“This cost-effective hybrid, non-strip wax can be applied in long, thin lengths like a strip wax, but removed like a hard wax,” says Rodrigues.

Cirèpil has launched new re-sealable bags to make packaging more user friendly.

Brightening wax Brand new from Depilève is the Cerazyme Depilbright Wax, which offers skincare benefits and is formulated to act on hyperpigmentation, help prevent spot formation and brighten the skin tone.

Says Smartbuy Depilève area manager and trainer, Adri Maritz: “Depilbright uses the highest percentage permitted of active ingredients that have skin >

Best

Pain Free Hair Free

Enterprise

TM

Enhance the Aesthetic

T: +27 (0) 12 998 9844 E: info@bestlasers.co.za www.bestlasers.co.za

have your clients smooth by summer  Safe on all skin types, efficient on all skin

types as well as on coarse & fine hair

 In-motion technology with contact cooling

for the most pain free hair removal treatment

 Tanned Skin, safe to use all year round

allowing patients to commence with the tanning habits

 Speed- Super quick allowing your salon to

treat more patients

Lasers & IPL for:          

Hair Removal Acne Pigmentation Veins Stretch Marks Nail Fungus Deep Wrinkles Skin Tightening Mesotherapy Rejuvenation

 No down time, as this is a painfree

treatment allowing patients to return to normal daily activities  All areas of the body,

as big as a back to as small as a nostril, allowing you to target males too

Benefits:

 Interchangeable

applications

 Cost Effective  Various

technologies in compact systems  Diode dedicated hair removal  FDA & CE Approved

NEW to Africa T: +27 (0) 12 998 9844 | E: admin@bestent.co.za www.bestent.co.za

Hair Removal

58 lightening, antioxidant and moisturising properties. The system is suitable for the face and body.”

Both the Depibright film wax and strip wax contain AlphaArbutin (which inhibits tyrosinase – one of the major enzymes involved in spot formation), as well as White Mulberry root for its bleaching properties.

There is a range of Depilbright products designed to complement the waxing treatment, such as Depilbright Facial Concentrate Serum.

Three wavelengths

Sugaring

Body sugaring is a unique and gentle hand technique completely different from traditional hair removal systems.

Says Sandra Hunter of Brisan Distributors: “Alexandria Body Sugaring is scientifically formulated as a unique sugaring paste made from 100% natural ingredients, and so totally free of chemicals, completely environmentally friendly and with no animal ingredients.

The sugaring paste is hypoallergenic, noncomedogenic and is not tested on any animals.

“The very high sugar content of the paste, which is 100% water soluble, is a natural preservative and will not allow any bacteria to grow. It will also provide an indefinite shelf life.”

Following each professional treatment, the skin is left well exfoliated, soft, smooth, healthy and hygienically clean, without any burning, blistering, breakouts, tearing, bruising, stickiness or any other adverse effect to the skin whatsoever.

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Distributed by Best Lasers, the Soprano ICE Platinum by Alma Lasers offers the synergistic benefits of the three most effective wavelengths for hair removal, each targeting different structures within the hair follicle.

The three main anatomical targets include the bulge, bulb and papilla.

The Alexandrite wavelength offers more powerful energy absorption by the melanin chromophore, making it ideal for the widest range of hair types and colours, especially light-coloured and thin hair. With more superficial penetration, the wavelength targets the bulge of the hair follicle and is especially effective for superficially embedded hair in areas such as the eyebrows and upper lip.

A classic wavelength in laser hair removal, the 810nm wavelength offers deep penetration of the hair follicle with high average power, a high repetition rate and a large 2cm spot size for fast treatment. It is safe for darker skin types and targets the bulge and bulb of the

hair follicle, while moderate tissue depth penetration makes it ideal for treating the arms, legs, cheeks and beard.

The YAG 1064 wavelength is characterised by lower melanin absorption, making it a focused solution for darker skin types. It offers the deepest penetration of the hair follicle, allowing it to target the bulb and papilla, as well as treat deeply embedded hair in areas such as the scalp, armpits and pubic areas. With higher water absorption generating a higher temperature, the incorporation of the 1064nm wavelength increases the thermal profile of the overall laser treatment for most effective hair removal.

Accessories include: Facial Tip; Hygienic Tip (for intimate areas); and Alma Speed Gel, a topical formula that maximises the effectiveness of laser and light-based hair removal technology.

On form From Formatk Lasers & IPL systems, distributed by Best Enterprise, the Magma System features the 808nm Diode Laser technology for effective, safe and painless hair removal treatment for all skin types, offering comfort, speed and safety.

Due to the advanced cooling system, hair removal treatment can be performed without causing skin irritation.

The ALD applicator is equipped with a metal surface plate which is cooled to 4°C. Large areas can be treated

considerably faster, increasing the efficiency of the hair removal treatment and allowing more patients to be treated during a typical day.

The Magma is a precise instrument that can be adjusted to damage only the hair follicle, while minimally affecting the surrounding skin.

Lasertrolysis is a method of removing unwanted hair, utilising laser energy targeted to the hair follicle to cause thermal damage and prevent further hairs from growing. The near-infrared laser light is emitted by the ALD applicator and preferentially absorbed by the pigment located in the hair follicle. The laser is pulsed, or turned on, for only a fraction of a second. Duration of each pulse is just long enough to damage the follicle, while the system’s unique contactcooling system helps protect the skin by conductive cooling during the laser energy delivery.

It delivers a long wavelength, enabling the light to penetrate deeper into the skin while better avoiding the melanin pigment in the skin’s epidermis. This long wavelength penetrates into the hair follicle causing only minimal epidermal injury.

Using Formatk’s unique IPL (Intense Pulsed Light) technology (featuring both USP and UPC technologies), an effective and safe hair removal procedure is achieved as broad-light spectrum is applied to the surface of the skin, targeting melanin.

This light travels through the skin until it strikes the hair shafts or the bulb where the highest concentration of melanin is located. As the light is absorbed, the bulb and most of the hair shaft are heated, destroying the hair-producing papilla. Additionally, heat conversion occurs directly in the darker capillaries that bring blood to the follicle.

Hair Removal

59

Selective principle Distributed by Radiant Healthcare, Elysion from Cocoon Medical is a 1000 W Diode laser that works by using the selective photothermolysis principle, reaching high temperatures which destroy the hair follicle without affecting adjacent tissue. With a peak power of up to 10J in 20 milliseconds, Elysion is designed to work on all >

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Hair Removal

60 eLase boasts the largest treatment spot size in the industry.

Optimal options

areas and all skin types.

Says Radiant Healthcare’s clinical trainer, Danelle Wheatley: “Cocoon Medical has developed and patented ‘crystal freeze’, a cooling system for the tip of the hand piece based on the TRT (thermal relaxation time), which is the time necessary to reduce the temperature generated by the light emission on the tissue, or structures on which it is working.”

Commenting on the Syneron eLase with Motif LHR (powered by elos™ technology), Wheatley says: “Radio frequency is ‘colour blind’, which allows you to treat darker skin types more safely and blond hair as well. Working at 10hz in Motif/Fast mode allows a truly painless application, because pain receptors in the brain do not register the pain.”

High frequency, low energy treatments with eLase are virtually pain free, with minimal downtime. Its contact cooling system promotes patient comfort while Active Dermal Monitoring feature monitors skin impedance.

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Hair removal with lasers from Lumenis, distributed by Hitech Lasers, has a long track record of safety and efficacy. In order to provide optimal treatment possibilities, Lumenis offers four LightSheer models to choose from: Infinity; Duet, Desire and Desire Light.

LightSheer Infinity has six treatment options and is FDA approved. It has two optimal diode wavelengths – 805nm (Diode) and 1060nm (Nd:YAG).

Says Naomi Olivier of Hitech Lasers: “Clients from different ethnic backgrounds and with different skin types are increasingly demanding solutions that are tailored to their needs. With the LightSheer Infinity you can customise treatments and offer the ideal treatment to each client.”

She notes that the long-term clinical study of dermatologist, Dr Elliot Battle, explained: “The Nd:YAG laser light can travel

deep below the skin’s surface to reach the melanin in the hair follicle without damaging the skin’s superficial layer. Thus the Nd: YAG laser wavelength is considered by many in the industry to be the gold standard for performing laser hair removal on Fitzpatrick skin types V–VI.” To effectively treat all body areas and hair types, the LightSheer Infinity offers two mechanisms of action (the low fluence vacuum assisted HIT and the high fluence ChillTip) with a variety of spot sizes that can be easily switched on the handpiece. The vacuum assisted HIT (HighSpeed Integrated Technology) is now available in both wavelengths, allowing you to perform fast treatment with a high coverage rate. Treatment with the LightSheer Infinity is more than 75% faster than the market average and can be carried out all year long, ensuring high patient satisfaction.

According to Olivier, the advantages of the vacuum assisted HIT unique to Lumenis in LightSheer Infinity, Duet and Desire Diode Lasers include increased efficacy; higher treatment safety for all skin types; decreased pain and faster treatment.

In terms of IPL hair removal, the Lumenis M22™ multi-technology platform includes the Universal IPL applicator in which the appropriate Filters for hair removal are inserted.

The 695nm Filter is used for lighter skin colours and the 755nm Filter for darker skin colours.

Highly controlled pulses of light are emitted with the IPL hand piece from a smooth, transparent Filter and are selectively absorbed by the hair follicles. The absorbed light heats the hair, which damages the re-growth potential of the follicle – all without damaging the surrounding tissue.

IPL hair removal is effective on all hair with dark pigment and with a larger number of treatments on dark blond hair. IPL hair removal with Lumenis Optimum Pulse Technology (OPT) is safe for all skin types.

Olivier continues: “The OPT of Lumenis M22 has significant advantages, such as the control pulse shape which equalises energy distribution over the entire pulse or sequential pulses. It is a gentler, more comfortable, patient-friendly procedure, with lower effective fluences.”

Gentle delivery

The BTL Exilite is an advanced IPL system that, in addition to treating skin ageing, acne, pigmentation and vascular

lesions, also offers effective hair removal of all skin types.

Its uniform distribution of light achieves faster, more effective results, while the multi-pulse mode and advanced cooling system enable gentle delivery of energy into the skin, decreasing the risk of unwanted reactions, such as redness.

Electroepilation This is a precise technique that allows for the treatment of individual hair. A probe is inserted into the hair follicle and an ultra-fast electric current is emitted at the base. This current produces heat, which allows for the destruction of the stem cells responsible for hair growth.

Says Tzvia Hermann of The Laser Beautique: “Electroepilation is the only 100% permanent hair removal method and is effective no matter what the colour of hair – even blonde, red, grey or white.

It is an effective treatment for

medical aesthetic solutions

clients of all skin colours, light and dark.”

Hermann notes that electroepilation enhances the results of IPL treatments and is the final step in complete and permanent hair removal for larger regions.

“It is also the ideal treatment option for facial hair removal and safe for eye contours and permanent eyebrow shaping, design or correction. The new >

Hair Removal

61

Hair Removal

62 generation of Apilus electroepiliation devices offers unparalleled comfort. Since the current passes within milliseconds, the client only feels a very light tingling sensation during the treatment session,” she says.

High density Venus Concept has entered the Diode hair removal market with Velocity, a device that features a proven optimal wavelength of 800nm and a powerful 2400W peak power, as well as a high energy density of up to 100J/cm2.

Says Thyrza Price: “The Venus Velocity is now a leading Diode powered system for long term hair reduction and the treatment of Pseudofolliculitis Barba, also known as razor bumps. What truly sets this system apart is the versatility of three changeable tips with varying spot sizes in one, comfortable applicator. At 7cm2, the Venus Velocity is the

indisputable leader in spot size for large areas.”

The device is indicated for all skin tones, including tanned skin. “Our innovative real-time cooling system monitors the applicator temperature a thousand times per second. With contact cooling, the temperature is maintained throughout the duration of the session to deliver a comfortable treatment experience for the patient,” explains Price.

She notes that hair should be in the growth stage for the technology to effectively target and destroy the follicle. About 30% of hair is in this phase at any given time. Shedding from the targeted follicles takes place over a period of two to three weeks, which is why treatments are usually given at least four weeks apart. PB

Crowning GLORY Tress-a-licious news from the hair front.

Clipper magic

Designer range Fashion house Balmain has launched its own hair range, incorporating the Balmain Silk Protein, which contains 17 of the 19 essential amino acids that naturally occur in hair. Balmain Hair Couture’s paraben-free shampoos and conditioners are available in Volume, Moisturising and Revitalising variants.

021 790 1669

The 5-Star Cordless Magic Clip from Wahl is designed to deliver the sharp performance that experts demand with the freedom of a cordless clipper. It features a high precision stagger-tooth 2161 blade with crunch technology. The tool has a convenient taper lever for easy fading and blending, and a lithium ion battery for a 90+ minute run time per charge.

011 454 4848

Renaissance art

Quick fix Inoar’s G.HAIR B-TOX Treatment is designed as a quick and instant fix for damaged hair. While it contains formaldehyde, this is not an issue as the treatment will not be ironed into the hair, therefore zero heat or fumes. The treatment contains wheatgerm oil, argan oil, shea butter, grapevine zextract, keratin and glyoxylic acid.

012 346 1721

Igora Royal Opulescence from Schwarzkopf Professional has rich, muted shades inspired by the pigments used

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Hair News

63

Medical Aesthetics

64

THE NEW AGE

of facial rejuvenation Karen Ellithorne takes an in-depth look at the use of toxins, dermal fillers and threads as a way of rejuvenating the face.

A

s we age there is a decrease in the functioning of the micro circulatory system of the skin.

This particular system is responsible for bringing the essential building blocks and oxygen to the cells in order for the skin to function optimally.

As a result of the slowing down of the micro circulatory system, the synthesis of collagen and elastin in the dermis is decreased.

This unfortunately leads to sagging, wrinkles and general ageing of the skin.

Collagen and elastin are responsible for the elasticity and plumpness of the skin and as the process of the formation of new cells slows down, the skin loses its elasticity and tone and fine lines and wrinkles slowly start to appear.

Over the last few years medical aesthetic doctors have been treating existing wrinkles and working on the prevention thereof. Their main tools in the fight against wrinkles have been botulinum toxin, threads and the new generation of HA (Hyaluronic Acid) dermal fillers.

The newer fillers on the market all have their own unique attributes that work in specific ways to rejuvenate and plump specific areas of the face, with the most common ingredient being HA. Experienced aesthetic doctors prefer to focus on the lifting and contouring action of the procedures they practice, with the secondary effect being wrinkle reduction.

This way of treating aesthetic patients has revolutionised the approach of treating sagging facial features and has led to the introduction of non-invasive facial rejuvenation.

Dermal fillers In recent years, dermal fillers have become more advanced with much longer lasting results compared to their inferior predecessors. The newer fillers on the market all have

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their own unique attributes that work in specific ways to rejuvenate and plump certain areas of the face, with the most common ingredient being HA. This is a polysaccharide that is present in most human tissues, namely the skin, bone, cartilage, synovial fluid, eyes, muscles etc. In the skin, it is generally found on the extracellular matrix and is responsible for the maintenance of the structure and plumpness of the skin. It is also responsible for the transport of water and nutrients in the skin and helps to attract nutrients.

HA is a skin protector and also a strong antioxidant. As we age the levels of HA slowly decline, leading to loss of moisture and breakdown of collagen and elastin fibres.

The more popular HA fillers currently used are from a nonanimal source and formulated in a laboratory with the process of bacterial fermentation. Dermal fillers are either stabilised and/or cross-linked to help improve the >

Medical Aesthetics

65

Medical Aesthetics

66 durability and long lasting results of the product. With the new modern HA fillers, it is no longer necessary to be concerned about allergy testing prior to treatment and treatment results should last anything from six to 12 months.

Thereafter the filler will start to lose its effect and by the process of natural biodegradation, break down.

Most brands of fillers are available in different compositions.

The fillers that are thinner in viscosity are used for areas where the skin is thinner and injected more superficially, whereas the thicker fillers are indicated for deeper wrinkles and loss of volume. Dermal fillers generally assist with replacing lost volume on the facial contour due to ageing and help to stimulate the body’s own natural collagen production.

If used correctly fillers can lift or shape any of the facial features.

For maximum treatment effect, dermal fillers are best used in the lower face namely the nasolabial folds and lips.

Botulinum toxin Botulinum toxin Type A is what is commonly referred to as Botox® and is currently the only Botox®

registered for aesthetic indications in South Africa.

However, having mentioned this, it does not mean that any other form of botulinum toxin Type A is not available or effective in treating wrinkles and lines.

Dysport® is another choice for medical aesthetic practitioners that is regularly used and widely accepted; it just cannot be promoted for cosmetic procedures. However, internationally there are also other brand names of botulinum toxins available for cosmetic use that have not as yet been registered in South Africa.

We are all aware that botulinum toxin acts to temporarily paralyze the muscles therefore minimising or eliminating unwanted lines and wrinkles. When used in conjunction with dermal fillers, it assists with providing a lift and will also help to achieve longer lasting results.

We get two types of muscles in the face – the muscles that pull upwards (levators) and the muscles that pull down (depressors).

In a liquid facelift procedure, the botulinum toxin is generally placed in the depressor muscles to relax the downward pull, allowing the levator muscle to provide a very natural looking lift to the facial features.

With repeated treatment, it is believed that the muscles lose their memory for frowning and after a few regular treatments, it is not as necessary for the patient to visit the medical aesthetic practitioner as often.

Threads The thread treatment can be done on its own or used in conjunction with HA fillers and botulinum toxin.

Threads can be used to successfully

lift sagging foreheads and brows, cheeks and midface, jawline and jowls and the submental area and neck.

There are currently two types of threads available to perform these types of treatments, namely, suspension sutures and PDO (Polydioxanone) threads.

The PDO threads are generally indicated for the non-surgical lifting of sagging tissue, for collagen induction and firming of crêpey skin. PDO threads are absorbable surgical sutures that come in different sizes. These sutures are slowly absorbed over time but the collagen induction and lifting benefits of the treatment can last up to three years post treatment, depending on the suture used.

Suspension sutures, on the other hand, are threads that possess either cogs and barbs, or transparent cones, as in the case of the Silhouette Soft brand, which is distributed in South Africa by Genop Healthcare.

When these three treatments are combined by an expert medical aesthetic practitioner, the client can expect to achieve a gentle lift of individual or overall facial features, reduction of wrinkles, creases, lines and folds and a more relaxed, energetic, youthful appearance. PB

With more than 20 years of experience in her field, Karen Ellithorne is the owner of Spa and Salon Solutions. She is well connected within the aesthetic arena and has been responsible for organising medical aesthetics conventions and seminars for many years. karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za

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Product News

67

market IN THE

Our round-up of new products and treatments.

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Cover and correct Bodyography Professional Cosmetics introduces the new Cover + Correct Under Eye Concealer. This corrector and concealer duo is a natural, miner al-based two-in-one problem solver that corrects dark circles, as well as conceals and brightens your under eye area.

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MatsiMela’s new Ginger & Lime range is combined with pure ginger oil, obtained from the root of the herb, Zingiber Officinale.

Ginger root oil has antiseptic, analgesic, anti-inflammatory and stimulating properties.

Lime also has many attributes, including toning up muscles, tissues and skin, as well as assisting with circulation.

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Red alert NeoStrata Redness Neutralizing Serum is formulated with NeoStrata BioCalm Complex, a proprietary blend of ingredients to target the sources of redness, restore and strengthen the skin’s protective barrier and help calm skin prone to sensitivity, such as rosacea-prone skin.

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68 Product News

Body double Pevonia Lumafirm Body Moisturizer Firm & Glow contains diacetyl boldine and Kombucha, which have remarkable properties to tighten the skin, improve skin texture, elasticity and firmness and reduce wrinkles.

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Scent on the go Travel Scent, the brainchild of Twincare International, is the perfect substitute to traditional bottles of fragrance that are bulky and fragile. Its compact design allows consumers to carry their favourite fragrance with them to use anywhere, at any time. Travel Scent is a collection of eight fresh and exciting fragrances.

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Serious serum Sheer protection Exuviance Sheer Daily Protector SPF 50 RRP is an anti-ageing fluid that provides sheer minteral UVA/UVB protection against photo-damage, the primary cause of visible signs of ageing. An ultra-fne transparent mineral sunscreen in a virtually invisible universal tint smooths imperfections and helps natural skin tone appear more even.

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Phytomer Émergence is a serum with a featherweight texture that provides a gradual and controlled supply of alpha hydroxyl acids, evening out skin tone and refining texture in 14 days. The active ingredient Alpha-Soft is a multi-layered gel composed of glycolic acid, lactic acid and citric acid.

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Zoned in RégimA SpaZone Facial and Body Treatment products all contain a unique new patented dynamic ingredient categorised as a ‘Second Skin’ active. An interpenetrating BioPolymer, this eco-designed active is obtained by ‘Green’ cross-linking and is world first technology with lifting properties.

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䈀椀漀 匀挀甀氀瀀琀甀爀攀 䜀攀氀 ⴀ 䰀攀愀搀椀渀最 一愀椀氀 䌀愀爀攀 猀椀渀挀攀 ㄀㤀㠀㠀 椀猀 琀栀攀 漀爀椀最椀渀愀氀 挀甀爀愀戀氀攀 䜀攀氀 渀愀椀氀 猀礀猀琀攀洀 琀栀愀琀 氀愀猀琀猀 甀瀀 琀漀 ㌀ 眀攀攀欀猀 愀渀搀 氀漀渀最攀爀 愀渀搀 猀漀愀欀猀 漀昀昀 攀愀猀椀氀礀 氀攀愀瘀椀渀最 琀栀攀 渀愀琀甀爀愀氀 渀愀椀氀 甀渀搀愀洀愀最攀搀⸀ 吀栀攀 猀礀猀琀攀洀 椀猀 猀瀀攀挀椀昀椀挀愀氀氀礀 搀攀猀椀最渀攀搀 昀漀爀 瀀爀漀昀攀猀猀椀漀渀愀氀猀Ⰰ 琀爀椀攀搀Ⰰ 琀攀猀琀攀搀 愀渀搀 瀀爀漀瘀攀渀⸀ 圀椀琀栀 愀 渀漀渀ⴀ 挀栀椀瀀 琀愀椀氀漀爀攀搀 渀愀椀氀 挀愀爀攀 猀漀氀甀琀椀漀渀 昀漀爀 愀渀礀 渀愀椀氀 琀礀瀀攀 漀爀 挀漀渀搀椀琀椀漀渀⸀ 一愀椀氀猀 挀愀渀 戀攀 氀攀渀最琀栀攀渀攀搀Ⰰ 爀攀椀渀昀漀爀挀攀搀Ⰰ 爀攀瀀愀椀爀攀搀Ⰰ 攀砀琀攀渀搀攀搀 愀渀搀 洀漀爀攀Ⰰ 眀栀椀氀攀 琀栀攀 渀愀琀甀爀愀氀 渀愀椀氀 猀琀愀礀猀 瀀爀漀琀攀挀琀攀搀⸀ 匀甀椀琀愀戀氀攀 昀漀爀 戀攀最椀渀渀攀爀猀 愀渀搀 攀砀瀀攀爀椀攀渀挀攀搀 渀愀椀氀 琀攀挀栀渀椀挀椀愀渀猀Ⰰ 䈀椀漀 匀挀甀氀瀀琀甀爀攀 䜀攀氀 挀漀渀琀椀渀甀漀甀猀氀礀 瀀爀漀搀甀挀攀猀 愀眀愀爀搀 眀椀渀渀椀渀最 渀愀椀氀 琀攀挀栀猀 最氀漀戀愀氀氀礀 眀椀琀栀 昀甀氀氀 漀渀最漀椀渀最 猀甀瀀瀀漀爀琀⸀ 㠀㘀㄀ ㈀㐀㘀 㐀㌀㔀 簀 戀椀漀猀挀甀氀瀀琀甀爀攀⸀挀漀洀

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Issue 16

Sept 2017

Testing transaction

How to structure commission on service and retail

Shutterstock

Doing it for the kids

Adding children’s treatments to your menu

Bedazzled!

Fabulous finalists in our nail art competition

Welcome

74

I

n this issue you will find images of the entries in the annual Nail File Showcase Nail Art Competition and you will no doubt be dazzled, as we were. In fact, not only were the Professional Beauty and Nail File teams blown away by the sheer artistry and amazing creativity of some of the entries, we were also delighted with the number of submissions we received, far more than in 2016. This proves that our competition is growing year on year, which is absolutely fantastic.

There is no better way for nail techs to hone their artistic capabilities than by participating in competitions. This year our two themed categories were: Tip Box (‘Pirates of the Caribbean: Dead Men Tell No Tales’) and Photographic (‘Beauty and the Beast’).

One of the trickiest aspects of running a salon is to figure out how to structure your staff’s commission, both on treatments and retail, in a way that is fair to them but also ensures that you are able to make a profit in your business. In this issue, our three experts provide their views on this complex issue.

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

What’s inside Nail File

78

82

86

75

82

89

Industry News

The Contenders

Salon Focus

Stay in the know

78 Ask the Experts

Structuring commission

80 Business

Implementing life skills in the salon

online @ probeauty.co.za

Finalists in our Showcase Nail Art Competition

86 Pampering the little ones Children’s treatments

88 Style Savvy

Celebrating Spring nail shades

Freedom of movement

92 Top Tech Talk Lesego Matlou

93 In the Market Product Hub

75 News

NEWS

Information at your fingertips

Anti-ageing nail products an untapped area

N

ail brands could do more to target senior consumers, according to Mintel analyst Charlotte Libby, who points out that that this is a vast market, as the population of mature countries across the world ages.

“As nails become brittle with age, there are opportunities in hydrating, strengthening and smoothing products, designed specifically for older consumers,” writes Libby in her Beauty Spot: The Future of Nailcare blog.

She maintains that anti-ageing

is not the only way to position products for an older age group. “For instance, make-up that offers adapted claims and a range of shades that appeals to seniors and includes them in a younger-oriented category is the way forward.”

Industry Facebook Group on growth path The non-brand related Nail Techs South Africa Facebook Group, launched in the latter part of last year, continues to grow steadily and currently has over 4,500 members.

Says Xandia Greeff, who administers the group along with founder, Riana Botha: “We have introduced two categories in our weekly challenges for nail techs, namely Novice and Master. This allows for different experience levels to compete against each other. These challenges encourage nail techs to step out of their comfort zones.

“In addition, we have recently added another moderator, awardwinning nail tech Jessie Scott Turner, to help us keep things in order with the growing number of members. It’s wonderful to see all the nail techs in the group pull together.

“Likewise, it’s great to see brands coming together on one neutral platform to support and encourage the everyday nail technician by sponsoring the weekly challenges.”

These brands include Be Creative, Young Nails, NSI, E.mi, Maskscara, Nail Sticker SA and Planet Nails, among others.

Greeff stresses that the aim of the group is to push its members

to share their knowledge and work.

Botha adds: “Our goal is to create a network of nail technicians in South Africa who can advise, support and inspire each other in what seems to be a very competitive and harsh industry.

“We want to unite the industry – brands, nail techs and educational institutions – so as to improve the South African standard.”

Bio Sculpture pays tribute to its Canadian importers To celebrate the 20th anniversary of Bio Sculpture Canada, South African brand Bio Sculpture Gel International has created four new EVO colours, called the Canada Collection.

Each of the four shades was designed with a special

Canadian connection in mind.

With shades like Mignon (the shimmery Northern Lights), Natasha (the Canadian red flag), Margaux (lily blue French royalty), and Icy Elsa (frosty white), the collection brings together colours of iconic Canadian symbols.

MIGNON

NATASHA ICY ELSA MARGAUX

online @ probeauty.co.za

News

76

Young Nails makes waves

Y

oung Nails South Africa head office recently launched a new workshop designed by Robyn Shannon called ‘Haberdashery Nail Art’, covering techniques like marbling,

Robyn Shannon

Aztec painting techniques, chrome, holographic and mermaid application, and more.

In other news, the company reports that the recent national launch of its new SlickPour Powder Coating System went extremely well.

Says Xandia Greeff of Young Nails: “The SlickPour launch was amazing. We had a national shut down day where we offered a one-day SlickPour course to nail techs countrywide. Since then we have since sold out of SlickPour kits, twice. It took us by surprise how quickly nail techs jumped to get the products in the salons.”

As reported in the last issue of

SlickPour

Nail File, Greg Salo and Habib Salo, both senior executives of Young Nails Inc., will be coming to South Africa at the end of September, together with their international director of education, Tracey Reyerson, to run workshops for qualified nail techs.

LCN announces competition winners Sarie Puth and Lesego Matlou triumphed at the recent Looking Good LCN Annual Nail Competition in Pretoria.

Puth won the Masters Sculpting category, while Matlou was proclaimed winner in the Intermediate Tip Overlay category.

Runners Up in the two categories were Centeché Dixon and Katlego Momaane respectively.

Franzelle de Villiers, Lea Castro, Sarie Puth and Sonette van Rensburg

Zoya honoured in Beauty Choice Awards Zoya Professional Lacquer recently won the Best Vegan Polish category of New Beauty Magazine’s annual Beauty Choice Awards.

The product is formulated

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without formaldeyde, formaldeyde resin, dibutyl pthalate, toluene, camphor, tphp, parabens, xylene, ethyl tosylamide and lead.

“With a philosophy that echoes natural beauty, these toxin-free nail polishes are as ‘green’ as you can get,” said New Beauty Magazine.

Winning nails by Sarie Puth

The Professional Beauty Exhibitions offer salon and spa owners, managers, therapists and nail technicians the perfect opportunity to engage their senses.

Whether choosing new products, looking for new ideas, the latest trends and learning new techniques.

Diarise next year’s dates now so that you don’t miss out!

Professional Beauty

Professional Beauty

Professional Beauty

Cape Town

Durban

Johannesburg

4 & 5 March 2018

20 & 21 May 2018

2 & 3 September 2018

Business

78

ask

the experts

QUESTION: How do I structure my staff’s commission fairly on service and retail?

TRACY MULLER I run a training and distribution centre in KwaZulu-Natal (KZN) and, as such, hear from both you as salon owner and the trainees, your staff. The trainee starts off deciding whether it is viable to open her own business, or to work for someone. As a salon owner, you need to put yourself in your staff’s shoes. Ask yourself if you would accept what you are offering her, and whether it is viable for her to work for you long term. Try to retain her services for as long as possible or you will have to continually train new staff and lose clients, as they build up a relationship with their therapist and could follow her should she leave you.

Your staff are your doorway to the end client, and you need to keep the end client happy and loyal to you. The only way this is possible is to value and train your staff. You have to ensure that you structure and design a rewarding package that keeps her working to her best potential.

Basic salaries can vary. I prefer commission based salaries, so the more she works, the more she earns.

This allows her to grow financially and, in turn, add value and increase turnover.

Targets should be negotiated with expected growth indexes.

The commission would be

higher with a lesser basic, or lower with an increased basic.

As for retail – why would your staff retail to their clients if they do not gain from it? Retail commission is usually 10-15%. The more she retails, the more income she earns so it’s win-win.

Staff can be the best asset you have, but if not well managed and looked after, can drain and cost you dearly. Remember that as a business owner you need your therapist and she needs you.

Tracy Muller has a degree in Medical Technology and opened her own nail salon in 1998, becoming the area manager for KZN Bio Sculpture a year later. Both Muller’s husband and daughter have joined her in the business and their mission is to empower therapists to become successful business owners.

online @ probeauty.co.za

YVETTE NEL As a business owner it is of vital importance to make factual, calculated decisions when structuring and deciding commissions for staff on retail and services. Paying commissions to staff keeps them motivated if done fairly. Before committing to a general ‘thumb-suck’ commission structure, ask yourself the following questions: Do you know what your business cost per minute is?

Do you know what the actual cost per treatment is? This includes water, electricity, coffee, tea, etc.

Do you know what your retail products’ recommended mark-up and profit margins are?

Do you know what your markup and profit margins are on the professional services you offer?

Great affordable software is available nowadays to enable business owners to factually calculate the above, so the commission structures can be

fairly applied. Software can also calculate the real time commissions daily and could work well to motivate staff.

Be transparent in how your salon’s commission works and is paid. Be clear on what the expectations are to reach target for retail and services and about what amount is taken into calculation for commissions. For instance, after tax is deducted, does the basic salary get deducted and the commission calculated on the remaining amount? This must be clearly communicated to employees. By doing this, disappointment is avoided and there is an automatic commitment from the employee to be loyal and willing to work hard.

Simplify your structures and pay the same percentage commission to all staff. Those with more experience may receive a higher basic salary than an inexperienced employee. You

may also consider paying a higher commission on services, as the profit margins are normally much higher than on the retail products.

When the percentage earnings for commissions are the same for all staff, the employer could also consider paying a commission when the business target is used. This can motivate staff to work together and to go the extra mile. Staff forms a very vital part of your business success so treat them fairly and well.

pay your staff in this type of business is a basic salary and commission on both services and retail. How this is structured is vitally important in making sure you are not paying your staff too little or too much. The most important thing is to be fair and pay individuals accordingly as you shouldn’t pay all your staff the same.

The structure of their salary package should be determined according to various different factors, such as their experience, qualifications and their position. Don’t offer a newcomer a bigger, or even the same, package as someone in the same position with the same amount of experience, who has been working for you for a while.

Even though their contracts may forbid discussing salaries with their colleagues, it will come out at some point and could end up causing a lot of animosity amongst your staff.

What works really well is to

structure their commissions on a sliding scale of target earnings, meaning that when they reach a certain amount they earn a certain percentage, earning more as the percentage goes up. This is also a good way of monitoring your staff’s performance. But make sure this works for you and your staff. Be careful of setting unrealistic targets, though as this can also be a very demotivating factor.

People are generally motivated by money, but they also see it as a reward for their hard work and the effort they put in. So, if they are not earning what they are worth, then you are definitely not going to retain your staff.

Yvette Nel is a diverse nail, health and beauty influencer with 14 years of experience in nail/beauty salons, education, marketing, retail and distribution. Last year she founded Trend Mi Life.

SONETTE VAN RENSBURG Your staff are the backbone of your nail business and how you pay them, incentivise them and reward them will definitely affect their performance and your employee retention.

There are various ways in which earnings and commissions can be structured, depending on the type of business. Some smaller businesses that have one person working as a nail technician opt to offer them a higher commission fee only, with no basic salary.

This offers the nail technician more freedom as to setting their own targets, almost like working for themselves. However, this has its pros and cons, in that it can either motivate them to work harder to earn more, or they could feel as if they can come and go as they please.

Personally I feel the best way to

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the industry for 28 years. She consults with salons and spas and trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail technology.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Business

79

Business

80

Implementing

LIFE SKILLS in the salon

Having well-developed life skills and learning how to survive in a world surrounded by various daily challenges, negativity and circumstances is vitally important for your staff, writes Sonette van Rensburg.

W

orking in a nail salon is quite a demanding job and can take a lot out of you, especially when you are exposed to so many different people in a day, not only your clients but your co-workers, your friends and family. All have different personalities, wants and needs.

The way you interact, conduct yourself and deal with situations in a positive, confident and constructive manner will have an overall effect on your success and lead to a far more productive, beneficial and sustaining career.

Know what your value is, be kind and believe in yourself.

Negative thoughts and being overly critical of yourself and others are not conducive to creating a positive environment.

It’s important to have long term and short term goals.

Good life skills, both in and out of the salon, build self-esteem and assist you in achieving your goals. They help you to visualise your success and have a clear picture in mind of what it is you

online @ probeauty.co.za

want to achieve and how to turn your vision and dream into a reality.

Let’s take a look at some very important life skills you should be implementing in your daily routine, personally and at work, which can either make you or break you.

Positive attitude Know what your value is, be kind and believe in yourself. Negative thoughts and being overly critical of yourself and others are not conducive to creating a positive environment. Leave your personal issues and problems at home, don’t allow them to consume your time at work or become part of other people’s problems.

Practise positive behaviour.

Remember that nothing is ever perfect and success is not defined as doing everything perfectly as never making

mistakes means that you don’t learn. We all learn from our mistakes so that we can grow.

Success is determined not by how much money you make but by striving never to give up when the going gets tough.

Respect yourself and others; being able to relate and have empathy with others creates a conscious feeling of respect.

Compliment others when you see they have done well or achieved something, it makes them (and yourself) feel good.

Good communication skills Effective communication skills are vital in order to ensure a good relationship between yourself and your clients.

No matter how you feel, you should always do your best to be polite. Good communication skills convey your

do that can make a difference, but how you say it and how you do it. The smallest things can make the biggest difference.

Self-motivation

professionalism to your clients.

You will be communicating with your client continuously in many different ways, from the time the client arrives until the time she leaves.

It takes two to communicate and it can help you to understand your client’s needs and to accommodate her in the best and most professional way possible.

Good communication skills also come into play when dealing with conflicts and situations.

Self care Don’t eat, sleep and breathe work only, it is important to take care of your personal needs too and to make sure you are living a full life, or else you could end up feeling very miserable.

Make time to do the things that you enjoy and make you happy, like spending quality time with your family and friends.

Self image Be confident and approachable, but not over confident as you may come across as arrogant.

Smile, be friendly and welcoming.

Your confidence should show

in the way that you present yourself because nobody takes someone who doesn’t care about themselves seriously.

Build on your strengths and focus on the things that help you to maintain a positive self-image and keep you feeling good about yourself. Maintain a healthy lifestyle by eating correctly, exercising regularly and getting enough sleep. Good grooming is essential in this business, be confident and always look the part, no matter how badly your day started, there are times when you need to just put on your lipstick and smile.

Body language is very revealing and there is so much you can tell by the way people behave and carry themselves – it can show whether you care or are interested in someone or not.

Self-management Have a plan for each day to manage your time and your productivity effectively and don’t procrastinate. Live by the five-second rule, don’t hit the snooze button, rather get up, show up and own up. How you plan and manage your time from the minute you wake up is going to make all the difference to your day.

Be accountable and admit when you have made a mistake and make it right. I always say it’s not what you say or what you

Motivation drives you to excel and to do your best; it instills positivity and determination to succeed in whatever it is that you want to achieve.

Being motivated and staying motivated can be a challenge in itself, so don’t wait to be motivated or for someone else to motivate you, you need to motivate yourself. If you are waiting for others to do so, you could end up waiting a very long time.

Be honest Honesty is the best policy, so be truthful and do not give the incorrect information or mislead your clients in any way. By being honest you will gain your client’s trust. If you are not sure of something rather let them know that you will find out and get back to them with the correct information.

Be accountable Accept your faults and mistakes when they happen, learn from them and make sure that you work at improving and perfecting yourself for the next time.

Be knowledgeable Stay up to date with information, technology and trends, especially in this industry. The last thing you want is to be caught not knowing what you are talking about as this will trigger doubts in people as to whether you also know what you are doing. The keys to success are determination, passion and a hunger for always wanting to learn more.

There is so much you should know and can learn about when it comes to life skills that can affect you, not only in your personal life but your career too.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Business

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Competition

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The contenders...

This year, the Nail File Showcase Nail Art Competition attracted a plethora of entries for its two themed categories – Photographic Nail Art and Tip Box Nail Art. As you can see below, the entries revealed a wealth of creativity and skill.

The winners in each category will be featured in the next issue of Nail File.

Photographic Nail Art Category – ‘Beauty and the Beast’

1

2

1 – Debora Franks

Photo 5 – Kefuoe Mophethe

2 – Leandre Kruger

Photo 6 – Nicole Swart

3 – Xandia Greeff

Photo 3 – Neuza Coetzer

4 – Tammy-Lee Knoetze

Photo 7b – Tammy-Lee Knoetzen

4

online @ probeauty.co.za

3

Competition

83

5 6 5 – Nicole Swart 6 – Kefuoe Mophethe 7 – Tammy-Lee Knoetze 8 – Neuza Coetzer

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7 online @ probeauty.co.za

Competition

84

Tip Box Nail Art Category – ‘Pirates of the Caribbean:

Dead Men Tell No Tales’

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3

5

2

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1 – Leandre Kruger

4 – Anelda Fouche

2 – Chelsea Gilson

5 – Eshter Fennie

3 – Michaela Quintas Da Silva

6 – Samantha Moodley

online @ probeauty.co.za

Competition

85

8 7 9 10

11

12

7 – Michelle Jacobs

10 – Tessa Tullues

8 – Kerry Scott-Turner

11 – Avianca Jansen Van Vuuren

9 – Vicky Louw

12 – Tammy Lee Knoetze

online @ probeauty.co.za

Children’s Treatments

86

Pampering for the

LITTLE ONES

S

ome may think it precocious to see kids in the salon sitting next to Mom or Dad having a mani or pedi, but in fact it’s not. Rather, it’s teaching them how to take care of themselves and besides, can you imagine how much patience it takes to sit that still for even a few minutes?

‘Mommy and Me’ treatments have become a very popular trend, however If you are thinking of incorporating services and treatments for the little ones into your service menu, then you will need to take a few factors into consideration and cater for them in the right way. The type of

online @ probeauty.co.za

Even small children deserve a pampering hand, nail and foot treat from time to time, and not just as a special birthday indulgence, but as a regular grooming must, writes Sonette van Rensburg.

Make it a fun experience for them rather than a gruelling experience which they may never want to explore again. treatments you will be offering, the duration of the treatments, the products you will be using, the techniques and protocols, and finally what you will be charging, all come into play. You most definitely cannot have the exact same offering for them

as you would for your adult clients. Furthermore, you also need to create a conducive environment or area to make them feel that this is especially for them and that they can have the same pampering treats as Mom or Dad, but at their level.

Firstly, you need to think about the type of service offering you want to include on your menu. It’s fine to offer treatments similar to those you are already offering the adults, just remember to adapt and simplify them more as there are certain things which you will not need to do, like remove callouses, nor excessively push back or cut the cuticles.

Gentle touch

Element of fun Make it a fun experience for them rather than a gruelling experience which they may never want to explore again. Children are very impressionable and it could put them off for life. These little ones are not only your clients now, but also your future clients. Lengthy manis and pedis are absolutely unnecessary, especially if you don’t want them to get bored; even the shortest amount of time spent sitting still will get them fidgeting and inevitably they will smudge their polish.

This can be taken into consideration when setting up an area or space for them. If you decide to go all out catering for the little ones, think about adding some distractions and fun things that can keep them busy during their service. A TV screen showing some cartoons

or movies is a great way to keep them still during a service, and children’s books and magazines can also be very helpful.

Mani and pedi stations and chairs that are the correct height can also make all the difference, not only to their comfort but also to your techs who perform these services. Remember that kids are little, so their feet and hands will not easily reach or be able to be placed into, pedi baths and bowls. If you don’t have a specially set up area then you will need to come up with some ideas on how to quickly and easily adapt an area to accommodate them. You can use platforms and cushions to raise their seating and allow them to reach where they usually would not be able.

Using shallower bowls and pedi baths just for them will make things a whole lot easier.

Your staff and how they deal with the little ones is also important.

They should be properly trained, know how to deal with children and be able to perform the correct type of treatment so as not to cause any harm. Staff will need to have patience, work safely and gently, while making sure that everything that is used is properly clean and well santised.

Remember that kids have far softer and younger skins than adults, so care needs to be taken. Do not use harsh or strong products, invasive techniques or metal implements and harsh files on them. Rather use natural based products and equipment that is child friendly. There are some great products that don’t contain harsh chemical ingredients and exfoliants that can be used. In addition, there

are products that have gorgeous fragrances that kids will just love.

Think of fruity flavours, cupcakes, chocolate and sweet smelling aromas and incorporate those into their treatments.

Come up with some fun, playful names for the treatments to attract their interest. Also offer nail art, decals, transfers and some different, creative ways and ideas of applying nail polish. Offering pamper parties for a birthday or special occasion also goes down an absolute treat with the little ones, especially when there are balloons and delicious tasty treats involved.

Get those little ones into your salon and make them an important part of your nail business, especially as the warmer months draw near.

I’m sure they will want pampered little hands and feet, with brightly polished nails and ‘toetsies’.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Children’s Business Treatments Trends

87

Style Savvy

88

Celebrating S P R I N G

nail shades

As Spring draws near, it brings the promise of warmer days filled with a renewed sense of vitality and energy – out with the old and in with the new.

Exchange the dark, intense wintery nail shades for a more on trend Spring colour collection to show off well-manicured nails and pampered, silky soft hands and feet, writes Sonette van Rensburg.

W

ith the season’s pairing of nail and fashion shades, evidently focused around the stimulating yellow green Pantone colour of the season, ‘Greenery’ (said to be the new neutral), all are undoubtedly reminiscent of Spring, creating unique combinations of modish and stylish contrasts. These are complemented by other nature-inspired hues in variations of browns, gold and bronze.

PANTONE COLOUR CHART Acquiring inspiration from the hues that surrounded us and that resonate with nature, the 2017 nail colour collections are unlike the traditional colour palette that we usually see during this season, with a slight twist of ingenuity and conjuring up a spectrum of sentiments and moods. Shades are reflecting the tranquil and invigorating feeling of the great outdoors, from the Sun’s Out warmth of sunshiny days in bright Buns Out Bohemian Beauty Catch the Wind comforting ‘Primrose Yellow’, to the dependable cool blue of ‘Niagara’, instilling a sense of calm, and the intriguing freshness of muted ‘Kale’ green, inducing an awareness of health and vitality.

Subdued but stylish pretty pastels simulating a more composed mood of total contentment, like drinking a velvety coffee frappé in unpretentious ‘Hazelnut’ Sometimes a NSI complements colours like tranquil ‘Island Pop-arazzi Pose Girl’s Gotta Glow In The Hot Seat paradise’, a crystal clear easygoing aqua blue, and ‘Pale Dogwood, a delicate, elusive pink that symbolises sheer innocence. Arousing a feeling of joy and happiness, festive tropical shades like ‘Pink Yarrow’, a stimulating and passionate cerise pink, uplifts the spirit, while vivacious ‘Flame’ orange infuses a flamboyant charm, and invigorating ‘Lapis Blue’ comes across confident and resilient, saying it all in their appellation, setting a more playful look and tone and sure to gain the attention they deserve.

NSI

Off Duty

online @ probeauty.co.za

Lemon-Meringue

FREEDOM

of

C

movement

Table View home-based nail salon, Beauty on the Go, recently changed its name to Cape Beauty, with mobile services still remaining a big part of the business, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

ape Beauty is owned by somatologist and nail tech, Lallie Kruger, who operates the business entirely by herself. “My salon’s initial name, Beauty

on the Go, originated from my salon in Linden, Johannesburg (opened in 2008), as I was doing most of my treatments on a mobile basis. Now at Cape Beauty I offer both salon and mobile services because it often happens that clients are not in

Mobile services also allow clients in difficult situations to be able to receive their treatments, whether it be due to not having a babysitter, or just not being able to travel. a position to travel. My mobile services are quite sought after, as they offer clients the opportunity of being in the comfort of their own homes or offices. In fact, I have found that many people are shy about visiting salons. “Mobile services also allow clients in difficult situations to be able to receive their treatments, whether it be due to not having a babysitter, or just not being able to travel. I have even preformed services on clients recovering from injuries or operations at

online @ probeauty.co.za

Salon Focus

89

90 Salon Focus

Services

their homes. The mobile services also play a large role in my professional make-up section, as demand is mostly location based, especially with photo shoots and weddings.”

She notes that she decided on a home based salon as most of her clients reside in the area and a lot of them have children.

“Clients are welcome to bring their children along to the salon, should they choose to. My clients also feel more relaxed in my salon, as it is an easy and yet private setup,” comments Kruger.

Cape Beauty offers hand and foot treatments including gel nails, nail art, body sugaring (hair removal), professional make-up, facial tinting and some facial retail products.

Kruger is looking into the possibility of offering facials in the future.

Brands offered are: Bio Sculpture Gel & Evo Gel; Gel-it Gel Polish; Alexandria Professional (Body Sugaring); Coverderm; Alila; and Willa Krause.

of nature, and most of the products I use I try to keep as natural and chemical free as possible, like Alexandria Professional.”

Arty side

Time off It was in 2012, when Kruger and her husband moved from Johannesburg to Cape Town, that she found out she was expecting their first child.

“At that point I decided to take a short break from the industry to find my feet in Cape Town and raise our kids. So I only reopened my salon in April 2016,” she explains.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Says Kruger: “During my final school year in 2003, before I did my studies in somatology, I went for a nail treatment with Bio Sculpture Gel and fell in love with the product. Soon thereafter I was booked to do their nail course and have since then never had any problems with the product or service. I have always been a lover

Kruger reports that there is a big demand for nail art in her salon.

“Especially the hand painted designs, combined with glitter and rhinestones. Graduated colours are also very popular. It very seldom happens that I get a request for a ‘plain’ overlay.

“I’ve noticed that my clients’ nail art demands are quite trend based.

Most clients have an image in mind and come in with a pic or two from Pinterest. But for most I use a combination, from freehand design to foiling, marbling and chrome powders, to mention a few.”

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Q&A

92

Top Tech Talk This issue of Nail File puts the spotlight on awardwinning Johannesburg-based nail tech, Lesego Matlou.

PLEASE PROVIDE A BRIEF CAREER TRAJECTORY.

FOR HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN IN THE INDUSTRY? I’m a qualified beauty therapist who has been in the industry for 12 years.

WHAT MADE YOU WANT TO SPECIALISE IN NAILS? I decided very early on in my career to focus on nails, as that’s where I found my passion. While studying beauty at Parktown College, I would do people’s nails at home and work at salons over weekends.

The more I did nails, the more I fell in love with this segment of the beauty industry. To me, nails mean creativity and bonding with the client. They mean that I’m going to revamp someone’s hands – a client walks in with plain hands and leaves with beautiful nails.

Once I qualified, I approached what used to be Dream Nails in Sandton City and they took me on. Dream Nails played a big part in my career – they taught me so much. After some years, I moved to Carlton Hair Hyde Park, where I worked for five years as one of their nail techs. It was an amazing time but eventually I felt I needed a change, so I joined the team at Grace Skin & Wellness in Parkmore. I’ve been here for four months.

“

The more I did nails, the more I fell in love with this segment of the beauty industry.

To me, nails mean creativity and bonding with the client.

CONGRATULATIONS ON WINNING THE INTERMEDIATE TIP OVERAY CATEGORY AT THE RECENT LCN COMPETITION. HOW DID IT FEEL TO HAVE WON? I couldn’t believe it as I’d only been working with the LCN system for two months. It’s different to the acrylic liquid & powder system that I’m used to as it’s resin-based. When LCN’s Lea Castro announced my name as winner, I actually looked around to see if there was another Lesego who’d won. Once I realised it was me I was speechless. It was an overwhelming feeling to win and one of the best days of my career. I have to thank the LCN team for encouraging me to enter their competition and for having

online @ probeauty.co.za

confidence in my abilities. During the competition itself I didn’t really feel pressure as I normally work fast.

My model was panicking more than me. I finished a full three minutes before the competition ended.

WHAT WOULD YOU SAY ARE THE QUALITIES OF THE IDEAL NAIL THERAPIST? Hygienic practice; looking the part as being a nail tech is not as casual as people think; being confident; and behaving in a professional manner.

My advice to anyone wanting to get into the industry is that you have to have a passion for the job. Don’t take it lightly just because it’s nails.

Besides the fact that it pays the bills, it goes a long way. A career in nails is artistic and therapeutic.

Product

HUB

Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails.

Divine dip The Artistic Perfect Dip system will change the way you apply colour.

High-def colour lock formulas create intense, vibrant manicures.

The Dual-Ended Dip Dish creates two perfect smile lines in just seconds. There are 18 best-selling matching shades comprised of rich colour pigments.

011 305 1600

Glamour goes MAD Bio Sculpture has launched its MAD Glamour Collection, comprising four dazzling shades. These are: Shimmering Joy (pinky nude with a satin finish); Merry-Go-Round (dusky pink); Disco Ball (rose gold sequins); and Party Popper (deep, almost black purple).

051 943 0377

Flexible lamp NSI’s Dual Cure Lamp technology allows the user to choose between a UV or LED cure. This flexibility allows the nail technician to use the UV and LED products they love without purchasing multiple lamps.

It is auto set to 90 seconds for UV products. The lamp is specifically engineered to improve photo active consistency.

012 997 4010

online @ probeauty.co.za

In the Market

93

In the Market

94 Magic potion From Morgan Taylor, the dailyELIXIR cross-links with damaged nail keratin.

It is formulated with 20% active ingredients for instant results and its 7-free formula corrects breaks, splits and peeling. dailyELIXIR saturates and resurfaces nails with powerful hydrolysed keratin peptides and instantly restores a healthy glow.

011 447 0659

Dreamy collection Just in time for Spring, the OPI California Dreaming Collection comprises 12 colours available in Infinite Shine. These include: Don’t Take Yosemite For Granite; Feeling Frisco; GPS I Love You; Malibu Pier Pressure; Me, Myselfie & I; Santa Monica Beach Peach; Sweet Carmel Sunday; and Time For A Napa.

011 325 1000

Eight free New to South Africa, Smith & Cult’s luxury nail polishes are created with an exclusive 8-free formula, meaning there is no dibutyl phthalate, toluene, formaldehyde, formaldehyde resin, camphor, xylene, ethyl tosylamide or triphenyl phosphate.

The brand is characterised by its unique and edgy bottle design.

082 771 3173

online @ probeauty.co.za

Spellbound The Nightspell collection from CND is dark, sultry and full of drama. This collection includes a warm lilac creme, a sultry burgundy, a few elegant duo chromes, and some shade shifting magic. Nightspell is presented in five CND Shellac and Vinylux matching shades.

0861 126 374

Symmetry World Symmetry World focuses on individual businesses by assessing their needs according to core values, character and market level. Once analyzed the information is used to build and improve the companies’ performance. Remaining at the forefront of the industry.

Symmetry World focus on: • Spa & Salon Development • Concept creation • Business re-orchestration • Core therapy development • Brand positioning • Creation of specialized private label products

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