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AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BUSINESS

Incorporating

NAILFILE

A WORLD OF WELLNESS GWD founder Belgin Aksoy

BLITZED!

Spider vein removal

April 2021 | probeauty.co.za

FIFTY YEARS ON

The Mask celebrates five decades


18

In this issue... Regulars

Features

8 Industry news

34 The year of ‘Skinimalism’

Local and international news

30 Crowning glory

30

44 38

Blurring the lines between skincare and make-up

38 The vanquishing of thread veins

Stylistic endeavours

50 In the market

Which devices to use

All the latest launches

Business

Aesthetic Medicine

15 Ask the Experts All your questions answered

18 The Mask celebrates 50th birthday

44 Behind the mask Skin conditions arising from masking

Skincare clinic shares secrets of success

48 Maskne vs maskitis Product focus

Nails

21 Living indoors with the outdoors

51 NailFile

Incorporating greenery in your

Issue 40

salon

Interview 22 Talking to…Belgin Aksoy Global Wellness Day founder

Spa Focus

26 Treatment menu engineering Adapting your offering to

challenging times

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Promotional Feature

Beauté Pacifique presents Microscope on Microneedling The Africa division of Danish medical grade skincare brand, Beauté Pacifique, embarked on an 8-month long trial focused on the clinical interrogation of controlled damage scenarios to the skin’s upper tissues, using a pen containing tiny needles to puncture the skin and induce a healing response.

I

n this case study, Beauté Pacifique focuses on ANTIAGEING and measures the effects of microneedling treatments performed in conjunction with the application of prescribed Beauté Pacifique products. Results were recorded via Beauté Pacifique’s DermaScan Medical Ultrasound device, which can measure the skin’s structures reaching its deepest layers. This high resolution ultrasound imagery was supported by photographic evidence compiled to compare the results over the trial period, under the watchful eye of Dr Nadia Dannhauser of For Beautiful Life Medical Aesthetics in Johannesburg, Tasneem Valley (Medical Aesthetician) and Beauté Pacifique Africa’s Julia Wills (International Master Trainer).

The client in the anti-ageing trial is Debbie, a 54-year old woman who has had no operations or illnesses in the last 12 months. She is an estate agent and is active and busy in her role. She does not exercise or partake in any sport.

CLIENT SKIN ANALYSIS Skin Type: Mature Dry Skin Skin Condition: Superficial Dehydration Skin Imperfections: The client’s skin is thin and she has scattered hyperpigmentation. Her cheeks show scattered macules and ephiledes. Enlarged pores on the nose were visible. Her skin has been damaged by the sun and her face is lined with deep rhytides. The skin was smooth and fragile to the touch. The Ultrasound Dermascan showed a clear sonogram of a typically photodamaged skin. Her skin is thin, at just less the 1mm. Fitzpatrick Scale: Type 2 Low TREATMENT 1: 24 July 2020 TREATMENT PLAN INCLUDING PRODUCTS USED AND CLIENT REACTIONS

Cleanse: Milky Cleanser for Dry Skins 5ml. Tone: Enriched Toner for Dry Skins 2.5ml. Exfoliate: Gentle Facial Exfoliator 15ml for 10 minutes. Massaged over skin and concentrated on drier areas. Rinsed off exfoliator with sponges and warm water. Used a tissue to blot skin dry. Needle Depth: 0.5 Anaesthetic cream/ Lidocaine 5ml applied and occluded for 15minutes. Removed plastic wrap from forehead and removed anaesthetic cream with damp gauze. Dried with a tissue and applied Beauté Pacifique CRÈME METAMORPHIQUE to area as a glide medium. Performed needling sequence with the Crème Metamorphique remaining on the skin. Therapist moved to the left cheek, right cheek, nose and frown area, upper lip, chin and finally, the neck area. Skin was cleaned with warm sponges and blotted dry with a tissue. Tone: Enriched Toner Dry Skins 2.5ml. Moisturise: Enriched Moisturising Crème for Dry Skins 5ml. HOW THE CLIENT FELT DURING THE TREATMENT The client felt very relaxed and was


talkative during the treatment. She was happy and relaxed and her skin still felt numb, but she did note just before leaving that her skin was starting to feel tighter. As the cream that was applied to her skin absorbed very quickly, more Enriched Moisturising Crème was applied. HOME CARE AND AFTER CARE ADVICE (INCLUDING ADVICE FOR ONGOING TREATMENT PLAN) Home Care Routine: Creme Metamorphique Night Cream, Creme Paradoxe Day Cream, Submersive Serum Parodoxe and Foaming Cleanser. The first three days after treatment she only applied Submersive Serum Paradoxe to the skin morning and night. She was instructed to avoid the sun and heat treatments, to wear STAY Beautiful SPF30 daily, and to not touch, peel or pick the skin. SPECIAL ADVICE Tyrostase Brown Pigment Equaliser daily for pigmentation and Gentle Facial Exfoliator for once or twice a week. TREATMENT 2: 8 September 2020 TREATMENT PLAN INCLUDING PRODUCTS USED AND CLIENT REACTIONS Same protocol on the Cleanse, Tone and Exfoliate steps. Mask: Skin Hydrating Mask 15ml applied and massaged into the skin, then removed with warm sponges. Tone: Enriched Toner Dry Skins 2.5ml Moisturise: Mixed STAY Beautiful SPF30 1ml with 2 drops Submersive Serum Paradoxe and applied. This amazing combination left hardly any white residue on the skin. HOW THE CLIENT FELT DURING THE TREATMENT The client was happy and mentioned how much she is loving the product. Her skin has shown a marked improvement in texture and tone since last seen just over a month ago. HOME CARE AND AFTER CARE ADVICE (INCLUDING ADVICE FOR ONGOING TREATMENT PLAN) Client used Submersive Serum

Paradoxe morning and evening for the 7 days following treatment, after which she used Paradoxe Day Crème and Crème Metamorphique in the evenings. Client instructed to stay out of the sun and increase water intake and to not touch, pick or peel the skin, or use harsh products for 7 days post treatment. TREATMENT 3: 6 November 2020 HOW THE CLIENT FELT DURING THE TREATMENT Client was relaxed and happy and enjoyed her treatment. No microneedling sensation was felt this time. Her skin was much thicker and stronger and a vast improvement was evident to the eye. The client expressed concern about the deep lines around her eyes and what else she could do about them. She was advised to massage her Crème Metamorphique around the eye every night and spend time massaging it in. During treatment, the therapist spent time working around the eye area with the microneedling device and planned to concentrate on this area during every treatment going forward. TREATMENT 4: Wednesday 13 January 2021 The same protocol was used for treatment 4. No erythema evident. Treatment 5 will be done increasing where comfortable to 0.7 needle depth. HOME CARE AND AFTER CARE ADVICE (INCLUDING ADVICE FOR ONGOING TREATMENT PLAN) Client instructed to remain out of the sun and protect her skin when driving. She was to drink lots of water and to not touch, pick, or peel her skin. Her serum to be used morning and night and after 3 days, to introduce Crème Metamorphique again. TREATMENT 5: 10 March 2021 Same treatment protocol as treatment 4 with a change to the

needle Depth: 0.5 on forehead. 0.5 on the nose and upper lip. 0.7 on the cheeks. 0.5 on chin and neck area. DERMASCAN MEDICAL ULTRASOUND FINDING

1. Observe Rejuvenation of the EPIDERMIS Treatment Result: thicker, smoother epidermis protecting the underlying cellular fibrestructure and limiting TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss). Skin repaired and appeared robust, presenting a lasting healthy and hydrated glow. Evidence of rejuvenation continuing throughout the full epidermal layer. Wrinkles are thus visibly reduced. 2. Observe Rejuvenation of COLLAGEN and ELASTIN Fibrestructure Treatment Result: effective cosmeceutical penetration and dermal structure density improvement indicated by DermaScan 4 echo colour change from black to ‘awakened’ green and healthy yellow and white echo, closer to the shallower epidermal layer. The patient confirmed that this has resulted in tighter skin and a firmer ‘feel’. A remarkable turnaround in damage in the dermal layer. This skin is far healthier than before treatment. 3. Anti-Aging Active Ingredient Delivery into the deepest layers of the skin Treatment Result: Dramatic, deep density improvement post treatment evident. QUALITATIVE FEEDBACK FROM PATIENT “This is a game changer for me. I didn’t think it would be possible to help me as my skin has become very damaged over the years and now I feel beautiful! Thank you Julia Wills and Beauté Pacifique! I love my simple, effective and cost effective routine!” For more information contact Beauté Pacifique International Master Trainer, Julia Wills, on julia@blueskyinternational.co.za

Promotional Feature

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Welcome

6

A

treatment menu, whether it be for a salon, spa or aesthetics practice, is a living thing, in that it should always be flexible and adapted according to client demand and trends. What better time to make meaningful tweaks to your menu than now, at a time when the whole world has been turned upside down by COVID-19? In this issue we include an informative article written by a spa consultant on exactly how to do this. As the article points out – there is one key dynamic in this regard, namely personalisation, because research shows that consumers prefers brands that personalise. Remember that your salon, spa or aesthetics practice is a brand and it is up to you to ingrain that brand on clients by offering a superior and personalised service. Long before the global pandemic struck last year, the concept of wellness had been a growing trend in the spa and fitness sector. Now, as the world grapples to fight against the COVID-19 virus, wellness has taken on a whole new significance and is closely aligned to physical, mental and emotional health. In the run-up to Global Wellness Day on 12 June 2021, we have conducted an in-depth interview with the movement’s founder, Turkish spa professional, Belgin Aksoy. We also include in this issue a feature article on The Mask Skin & Body Clinic in Parkview, Johannesburg, which turns 50 years old this year. Professional Beauty would like to congratulate The Mask founder/ owner, Helene Branmwell, and her team for reaching this extraordinary industry milestone.

Joanna Sterkowicz: Editor

@PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SOUTH AFRICA @probeautyexpo @PROBEAUTYSA

Cover source: Photo by cottonbro from Pexels

Publisher Mark Moloney

011 781 5970

mark@probeauty.co.za

Managing Director Yolanda Knott

011 781 5970

yolanda@probeauty.co.za

Commercial Director Philip Woods 011 781 5970

phil@probeauty.co.za

Editor Joanna Sterkowicz 011 781 5970

joanna@probeauty.co.za

Marketing Manager Stacey Platt 011 781 5970

stacey@tetradeevents.com

Operations Executive Obey Dube 011 781 5970

obey@probeauty.co.za

Design Phil Woods and Ursula Wong

Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970 The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher. Additional pics: www.shutterstock.com, www.pexels.com and www.pixabay.com

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Salon owners and COVID-19 vaccination policies

Photo by Gerd Altmann on Unsplash

News

8

Now that South Africa has

of employers to protect their

the purpose of the policy can

commenced its COVID-19

employees and maintain a healthy

be achieved by implementing

vaccination rollout to healthcare

and safe working environment.

alternative measures.

workers and with government

3. An employee’s refusal to be

An employer may consider the

expected to launch phase 2 at the

inoculated without reasonable

following when determining a

beginning of May, salon and spa

justification may result in possible

mandatory vaccine policy:

owners should consider their own

termination of employment

policies for staff in this regard.

on the basis of operational

This is according to the EOHCB

requirements, potential incapacity

• The effectiveness of social distancing in the workplace; • Employees whose work

(Employers Organisation for

or even misconduct. Mandatory

requires them to travel

Hairdressing Cosmetology &

vaccination policies present

domestically and internationally

Beauty), which has published an

an intricate balance of rights

for work related purposes,

in-depth guide in its March 2021

between:

especially if the COVID-19 vaccine

Journal. The EOHCB guide points

• Employee’s religious, cultural

is made compulsory for employees

out that is important for employers

or philosophical objections

to travel internationally. When

to start educating and informing

against vaccinations. This

an employee objects to being

all employees about the COVID-19

includes superstitious and the

vaccinated the following needs to

vaccine.

interpretation of religious text

be considered – the nature of the

beliefs, as well as refusal to be

objection, the importance of travel

is currently no legal restriction

vaccinated because of substances

and suitable alternatives.

on mandatory vaccination

in the vaccine prohibited

policies and the implementation

for religious reasons, beliefs

out that the provisions of

of such policy will need to be

pertaining to consumption of

POPI (Protection of Personal

measured against the principle

animal products and/or the way in

Information Act 4 of 2013)

of reasonableness. When an

which these vaccines were tested.

will apply when requesting

employer contemplates a

If an employee objects to be

employees to disclose personal

mandatory vaccination policy

vaccinated, all objections must be

information, such as medical and/

in the workplace, the following

considered and then be weighed

or vaccination history. In addition,

considerations should be taken

up against the risk of COVID-19

salon owners, as employers,

into account:

and the right of a safe working

need to consider the issue of

environment.

liability, should they implement

As per the EOHCB guide – there

1. Mandatory vaccination policies will inform all employees

• Employee’s medical objections

The EOHCB guide points

a mandatory vaccination policy

of the employer’s point of view

and safety concerns when an

and the employee experience

regarding vaccination/ inoculation

employee is deemed as high-risk.

unfavourable effects after being

and the reasoning behind the mandatory vaccination policy.

2. Mandatory vaccination

4. When considering whether

vaccinated for COVID-19, provided

to implement a mandatory

that the employee can prove the

vaccination policy, employers

element of wrongfulness. To read the EOHCB full guide

policies also increase the health

must evaluate their individual

and safety of employees in the

workplaces and determine

go to https://www.eohcb.co.za/

workplace and are in line with

whether such a policy is truly

articles and click on ‘March

the obligation and responsibility

necessary and/ or whether

EOHCB Journal’.

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Well-known spa professional, Emmy Stoltz, is the new Global Wellness Day (GWD) Ambassador for South Africa, taking over from Celeste Peters, who relocated to Netherlands and is now GWD Ambassador for that country. Says Stoltz: “I am extremely honoured to be chosen as the GWD Ambassador and see it as a privilege and an opportunity for me to give back and share my knowledge to create opportunities and bring about wellness awareness. “My duties will focus mainly on spreading the awareness about GWD far and wide and, of course, collating online events as well as physical events in South Africa for 12 June 2021, which is our

official Global Wellness Day. The value of wellness for all, as well as showcasing our GWD Manifest, is something I intend to highlight as much as possible. By making use of my network to gain traction for this global initiative, I will continue encouraging as many complimentary activities as possible to promote wellness across South Africa.” Stoltz notes that for the past three years, South Africa’s spa and salon environment have been the focus for GWD. She continues: “This year, I want to add the engagement of schools, businesses, online groups and any community that would like to get involved. With the evolution of self-care, I would like

News

Emmy Stoltz appointed GWD SA Ambassador

Global Wellness Day to become the resource to help take on new approaches, connect the dots and find the joy in new ways of taking care of yourself. Self-care has never been more important than now.” For 2021, GWD is planning a full, 12-hour global online celebration. Stoltz encourages contributors within South Africa to upload and share their plans, whether it is via their online portals or a physical activity at their business. https:// www.globalwellnessday.org/ https:// www.facebook.com/GWDSA

Saxon Spa announces reopening date The award-winning spa at the Saxon Hotel, Villas and Spa in Sandton, Johannesburg will reopen for business on the 1st of May with a new look, new experiences and new packages. Exciting new journeys, which are in step with the worldwide trend towards wellness and mindfulness, have been developed and perfected by the Saxon Spa team, ensuring that guests will be offered up-tothe minute treatments to restore balance to mind, body and soul. These new treatments include a Bellabaci Massage, which is based around a silicone cupping technique to aid in drainage and detox; a Digital Detox Journey, allowing guests to separate from their devices with a massage focusing on those stress points brought on by our use of technology; as well as

Sleep Therapy, which is perfect to reduce the effects of jetlag. Guests will also start each treatment with one of the Saxon Spa’s bespoke mindfulness journeys – shaking off the concerns of the outside world before embarking on their treatment.

The Spa team looks forward to sharing more information on these new therapies, as well as the new product ranges that will be featured in the spa in the coming weeks. Part of the property’s new offering will see the launch of the brand-new Saxon App.


Ta k i n g C o s m e c e u t i c a l peeling to the next level W i t h o n e o f t h e C o s m e c e u t i c a l i n d u s t r y ’s g r e a t e s t f o r m u l a t o r s at the wheel, Prof. Aubrey Parsons, we introduce a brand-new concept. A peeling solution where the topical “downtime or peeling” effect is not the only desired outcome. SkinPhD offers peeling treatments that retexturise the surface of the skin and remove impurities but leave active ingredients on a cellular level to continue cellular improvement and e n h a n c e y o u r s k i n ’s o v e r a l l h e a l t h .


Launching 1 April 2021

AGE

After 1 peeling treatment and 7 days later

WE DON’T D O FA K E . only real results

F O R M U L AT E D B Y Prof. Aubrey Parsons

“Beauty is not only superficial, but where it matters most - on a cellular level”

F R A N C H I S E O P P O R T U N I T I E S AVA I L A B L E Become part of the fastest growing industry with SkinPhD’s exciting franchise opportunities. The only franchise model with no royalty fees. F O R M O R E I N F O R M AT I O N , C O N TA C T U S N O W AT franchise@skinphd.co.za

@ s k inphd_sa

www.skinphd.co.za

087 35 7 0 2 5 4


News

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‘Normal’ on product packaging has negative effect, research shows A 10,000-person study commissioned by Unilever and conducted across nine countries, including South Africa, shows that more than half of respondents think that the beauty and personal care industry can make people feel excluded. Seven in 10 people agree that using the word ‘normal’ on product packaging and advertising has a negative impact. For younger people – those aged 18-35 – this rises to eight in 10. According to the study, people want to see the beauty and personal care industry focusing more on making people feel

better, rather than just looking better (74%). More than half of people (52%) say they now pay more attention to a company’s stance on societal issues before buying products. In response to these research findings, Unilever, owner of professional skincare brands like Dermalogica and Murad, has dropped ‘normal’ claims when referring to skin and hair types in a bid to push an inclusivity message. In addition, Unilever will not digitally alter a person’s body shape, size, proportion or skin colour in its brand advertising, and will increase the number of

advertisements portraying people from diverse groups who are under-represented. This forms part of the launch of the company’s new Positive Beauty vision and strategy, which Unilever says sets out several progressive commitments and actions for its beauty and personal care brands. Positive Beauty is positioned as championing a new era of beauty that is equitable and inclusive, as well as sustainable for the planet. The other countries involved in the Unilever study were Brazil, China, India, Indonesia, Nigeria, Saudi Arabia, UK and the USA.

Scientific verification that skin radiance makes a good impression

Facial images of “radiant’ (left), ‘oily and shiny’ (centre) and ‘matte’ (right)

Japanese cosmetics brand, Shiseido, has scientifically verified through joint research with the National Institute of Information and Communications Technology (NICT) that facial skin radiance influences facial attractiveness and creates a good impression to other people. It was also found that skin radiance in the face creates a younger impression; the age estimated for facial appearance online @ probeauty.co.za

is about three years younger than a face without skin radiance. Until now, it has often been thought that facial skin radiance gives a positive impression to others, as a glossy state representing healthy skin, but there wasn’t sufficient scientific evidence to back this up. These study results can be applied to the future development of skincare and base makeup products that have a high emotional value of creating

radiant skin. This is true not only of face-to-face communication but also virtual communication. The results of this study were published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (November 20, 2020). Some 160 female participants in their 30s to late 40s took part in the study and were asked to record their impressions to the images pictured here.


All Eyes on Lash Styling

Want to find out more? info@refectocil.co.za | www.refectocil.co.za online @ probeauty.co.za


SA co launches world’s first live probiotic facial Bio-clinical probiotic skincare brand, Esse, has introduced what it believes is the world’s first live probiotic facial – a highly advanced, expertdesigned treatment that uses billions of live bacteria to deliver actives. For ageing skin, the Ultimate Esse Experience facial offers a Liing Massage using myofascial release and liing techniques to rejuvenate tired, dull skin and boost circulation, while the Esse Sensitive Massage (for sensitive and sensitised skin) uses gentle touch and tools to calm the nervous system and reduce inflammation. The skin is then covered with billions of live microbes containing three species of living Lactobacillus and followed by the application of Esse’s setting Exclusion Mask. This provides the pe ect anaerobic environment for the bacteria to start to colonising. The bacteria naturally produce hyaluronic acid, lactic acid and anti-microbial peptides, which together provide hydration and protection. Thereafter, hydrating products are applied to lock in moisture. Balance is restored through the rewilding of the skin with advanced probiotics, resulting in a radiant complexion.

New peeling concept enters market Launched on 1 April this year, SkinPhD’s Surface to Cell Peels were formulated by renowned cosmetic scientist, Professor Aubrey Parsons. Says the SkinPhD team: “When analysing the end consumer needs related to peels, it is clear that some cannot afford ‘downtime’ due to their busy professional lives. Our new peeling system harnesses the positive components from various acids as we know them, but adds a unique twist in the active ingredients left at a cellular level. This combination approach ensures that the modern-day skin has the support it needs to heal and improve optimally. Gone are the days of expecting superior results but not seeing them as quickly as we want to. The SkinPhD Surface To Cell concept offers that immediate wow factor as expected from a peel,

whilst adding a daily, continuous skin changing effect.” SkinPhD is now offering the following options to fit every lifestyle: Pause Breakout, Pause Age and Pause Pigment Mild Peels (offering optimal results with little to no downtime); Pause Multi Boost Peel (can be incorporated into any mild peel to boost results); Pause Intro (for the teenager that cannot afford downtime due to their outdoor activity, or the client that is hesitant of peels, or the client that does not have major skin concerns but wants to keep their skin in optimal health); and Pause Breakout, Pause Age and Pause Pigment Intensive Peels (offering unparalleled results with a maximum of 5 to 7 days downtime). Every peel treatment includes a free client centric consultation to ensure the correct pre and post care is followed.


Photo by Anete Lusina from Pexels

Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.

I am a spa owner looking to expand my wellness offering by adding reiki. What exactly is it and what does it involve? Reiki is a safe, gentle, non-intrusive hands-on healing technique for use on yourself, or on others, using universal energy to treat physical ailments and emotional issues, without using pressure, manipulation or massage. It is a holistic system for balancing, healing and harmonising all aspects of the person – body, mind, emotions and spirit – and can also be used to develop personal and spiritual awareness. Reiki is a natural therapy that gently balances and revitalises one’s energies and encourages health and well-being. The intention is to create deep relaxation, to help speed up healing, reduce pain and decrease other symptoms one may be experiencing. We are alive because life force is flowing through us. Life force flows within the physical body, through pathways called chakras, meridians and nadis. It also flows around us in a field of energy called the aura. Life force nourishes the organs and cells of the body, supporting them in their vital functions. When this flow of life force is disrupted, it causes diminished function in one or more of the organs and tissues of the physical body. The life force is responsive to

thoughts and feelings. It becomes disrupted when we accept, either consciously or unconsciously, negative thoughts or feelings about ourselves. These negative emotions attach themselves to the energy field and cause a disruption in the flow of life force. This diminishes the vital function of the organs and cells of the physical body. The reiki practitioner places his/ her hands over the chakras (energy centres within the body) and the reiki heals by flowing through the affected areas of the energy field and charging them with positive energy. This causes the negative energy to break apart and fall away. In so doing, reiki clears and balances the energy pathways, thus allowing the life force to flow in a healthy and natural way.

Equipment It is best to use a proper healing bed, like the ones used in beauty salons. One needs a good quality pillow for the head and under the knees. An eye mask is also a good suggestion if the room one is working in is particularly bright. Most practitioners incorporate crystals in their healing sessions.

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Image by Free-Photos from Pixabay

ask Training

The minimum requirement in order to operate as a reiki practitioner is the successful completion of the Usui Reiki 2/Advanced course. What follows is Usui Reiki Masters, Karuna Reiki and Lightarian Reiki. These further qualifications are not required in order to practice, but should the practitioner make the choice to do so, they will be able to access the highest bands of reiki energy and therefore transmit a higher energy healing.

Pricing A reiki session can vary between 60 and 90 minutes, dependent on whether the practitioner is including any form of discussion or advice. The price can vary from about R400.00 per hour to R600.00 per 1 ½ hours. Helen Watson is an internationally qualified Karuna Reiki® Master and an Affiliate Member of The International Center for Reiki Training, an internationally qualified Lightarian Reiki™ Master, registered with the Lightarian Institute, and an independent Usui Reiki Master. She has been practicing as a healer and teacher for nine years. helen@reikijohannesburg.co.za

Business Tips

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Business Trends Business Tips

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The Mask celebrates 50th birthday

Founded by industry icon, Helene Bramwell, The Mask Skin & Body Clinic in Parkview, Johannesburg, turns 50 this year. Joanna Sterkowicz reports

I

t is a truly extraordinary achievement for any South African beauty salon to have been in business for five decades and Professional Beauty is not aware of any salon other than The Mask Skin & Body Clinic that has reached such an incredible milestone. The Mask was co-founded in 1971 by Helene Bramwell, long known as a pioneer in the beauty industry. Bramwell’s journey in beauty started a few years prior, in 1966, and ever since then she has been closely associated with the beauty profession in South Africa

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and abroad, attending national and international congresses keeping abreast with the latest techniques and advances. She is a CIDESCO Gold Medalist; a SAIHBTH (South African Institute of Health & Beauty) Founder Member and Honorary Fellow; as well as the recipient of three President Awards recognising her dedication to the profession. In honour of The Mask’s 50th birthday, Bramwell was interviewed live online on 16 March 2021 to a global audience by Mark Moloney, CEO of the UK-headquartered Professional Beauty Group. Bramwell told Moloney that she

enjoys making people feel good about themselves. “At end of day that is what we’re all trying to achieve,” she said. “There is a need

There is a need out there and as therapists, we have to meet that need. out there and as therapists, we have to meet that need. My team and I form relationships with clients and we are not in competition with each other. We work in tandem


community I was happy to serve.”

Market changes

as a results-oriented team. Skin therapists underestimate the important role they play in society and I think we should do justice to ourselves. ”

Although I had been approached by many shopping centres over the years – Rosebank, Hyde Park, Sandton – Parkview was where I wanted to remain. It was an area I felt comfortable in and a community I was happy to serve. Moloney pointed out that Bramwell was one of the first people in South Africa to employ people of colour. Bramwell responded: “Colour never actually entered my mind because I employed the person and was only interested in their ability, not their race or culture.”

Location, location, location What is quite amazing is that 47 of the 50 years of The Mask’s existence have been in the same location, at The Village on Tyrone Avenue in Parkview. Said Bramwell: “When The Mask first opened its doors in 1971, it

was in a shop in Parkview some 90 square metres in size that was painted and curtained by ourselves. Beauty therapy back then was an unknown and classified for the privileged only. At the time, Parkview was a very sleepy hollow with many shops vacant and others closing. We stayed resolute as we encouraged women to experience

facials, while giving them manicures or pedicures. Slowly business picked up and clients would travel from all over Johannesburg to come to us. The demand was growing. “I then moved to bigger premises (120 square metres) and in the early 1990s, we took a giant leap into an even larger space, at The Village in Parkview. Although I had been approached by many shopping centres over the years – Rosebank, Hyde Park, Sandton – Parkview was where I wanted to remain. It was an area I felt comfortable in and a

Commenting about the changes she has seen in the industry over the past 50 years, Bramwell noted that when she first started out, a lot of salons were very intimidating for the public but that The Mask has always felt comfortable for clients. “The Mask is its own culture; it’s not a fancy salon – we are a welcoming salon that’s been running for a long time. My clients have been amazing. One client said she appreciated the fact that I talk to her, the person.” Due to the salon’s longevity, Bramwell feels privileged to be treating the third generation of clients. “These are the children of the children of clients. Unfortunately, many have immigrated or moved to other parts of South Africa but when in town, they pop by to have a treat or just to say hello. I find this quite emotional as these people are the threads of The Mask’s tapestry and

it’s when I realise just how much time has flown.”

Retail policy While it’s true that therapists have to sell cosmetics for salons to survive financially, Bramwell emphasised to Professional Beauty’s Moloney that she and her team are responsible in this regard and not pushy. “All suppliers want you to be their representative to your clients but I don’t want to aggressively sell. If I see that the product the client is using is not

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Business Business Trends Tips

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Business Tips

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working for them, I will suggest another range.” Selling of products in salons is usually linked to commission but Bramwell has always strongly believed that you have to pay therapists decent salaries. As such, none of Bramwell’s staff work on commission. Clearly this policy has paid off as many of her staff

The biggest threat facing the industry is that anyone can open a salon these days, as you don’t need a qualification. members have been with her a long time, ranging from 16 years to 32 years. This factor in turn has been of benefit to the salon, as the beauty industry is notorious for therapists hopping from one salon to another. Commented Bramwell: “Teams that work together for a common cause always do best and my team has been amazing over the years – supportive and committed. I could not ask for a more loyal group of professionals and I must also acknowledge the constant and unselfish support of my daughter, Deborah. Without her I could not have managed.”

Pandemic Bramwell described the COVID-19 pandemic as a catastrophe for

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everyone. She continued: “We tried our best to keep in touch with clients during lockdown, to see whether they needed products. I think that phoning clients is much better than using social media. Having said that, social media did help in that we were able to show treatments to clients. “Our salon COVID safety protocols are very strict and have always been in place. I even purchased an ultraviolet unit to sanitise staff clothing and have limited the amount of clients that can be in the salon at any one time, as well as the number of days each staff member can work. Yet despite this, the fear factor among clients is very big. I would say that about 60% of my clients are still scared of coming into the salon. The younger clients are not so scared. We are now also open on a Sunday for those clients who have to work Saturdays. Unfortunately I don’t expect a big change in the fear factor dynamic for about six months.”

Industry threats Pandemic aside, Bramwell believes that the biggest threat facing the industry is that anyone can open a salon these days, as you don’t need a qualification. She continued: “I think it’s important for a salon or clinic to have CIDESCO accreditation, as it gives you a universal acknowledged stamp of excellence. This is because the CIDESCO national organisation

inspects premises and qualifications before presenting to the CIDESCO board. I believe this is important as the global village searches for hallmarks they can identify with confidence.” Bramwell acknowledges that today, although South Africa has some of the best qualified therapists in the world, she still believes that every skincare professional should try and attain a CIDESCO Diploma as it is a passport to the world of beauty therapy and is identified worldwide. “As high as some of our qualifications may be, if one considers relocating or moving out of South Africa, a CIDESCO Diploma will open doors – it is truly international and recognised by professionals and cosmetic businesses worldwide. “For many who have worked in the beauty therapy arena as a professional for three years, it is possible to apply for a Post Graduate CIDESCO Diploma examination through the CIDESCO Schools or the national CIDESCO Section (SAAHSP) Cidesco Beauty Centre Accreditation.” As to what advice she would give for someone wanting to open a salon today, Bramwell said: “You can only work on one person at a time. Give the client the best treatment possible. And don’t just do the same treatment over and over again – you have to offer alternatives. You need to tell them what treatments and products they need for their skin.”


Photo by Free-Photos from Pixabay

Living indoors with the outdoors Lauren Gibson looks at the benefits of incorporating greenery into your salon environment Our industry has mostly been an indoor industry and environment – confined to treatment rooms for 8 to 12 hours and sometimes longer. While the trend of bush treatments and outdoor experiences has grown, we are still seeing salon treatments being done behind closed doors – and for obvious reasons. However, nature therapy is an extremely powerful and easy therapy to bring into your salon. It is not only important for clients having treatments, but for staff working in the salon or spa environment as well.

Connection to nature There is science backed information to support the movement of greenery indoors. We are connected to nature and living and working with it in our space will improve our overall wellbeing. Studies have shown that plants indoors and in your workspace can Create a sense of relaxation – nature allows our central nervous system to be engaged and this generates a sense of calm and the beginning of relaxation before the therapist’s hands touch the client. Improved air quality – certain plants can absorb and draw toxins out of the air. This ensures the

environment is cleaner, which results in less stress on the central nervous system and immune system, as well as the skin.

Enhanced wellbeing for staff – if staff are working in a closed environment for many hours (and often exposed to chemicals in a salon), it is important to have greenery around them to remove toxins and allow for a sense of calm. This will enhance the working environment for the staff and general overall wellbeing. Attract passing customers – should salons be lucky enough to have a window onto the street, having a living wall or area of greenery allows passers-by to see the greenery indoors and often they are attracted into the salon. It also allows for a great conversation starter about the importance of greenery indoors and the importance of rewilding (bringing nature to the skin). Overall stress reduction – lowering blood pressure, the heart rate and overall muscular tension are positive side effects of being around nature and greenery. Due to the calmer state of being by having plants indoors, workplaces have seen increased productivity and the sharpening of attention and creativity.

Recovery and illness – plants have been shown to speed up recovery from illness, surgery and injuries.

Safe plants When it comes to choosing your plants, you always want to ensure you are choosing indigenous plants that are safe for pets and children. Some suggestions of plants for South Africa include Phipsalis casutha Philodendron (Monstera) Asplenium nidus (birds nest fern) Aglaonema (silver queen) Hoya carnosa (wax plant) Draceana compacta (dragon tree) Perperomia compacta Spekboom (needs sunlight) Aloe Vera Air plants Succulents Snake plant Engage with nature and bring some greenery indoors – the change in your staff and clients will be outstanding.

• • • • • • • • • • • •

Lauren Gibson has over 15 years in the health and beauty industry with qualifications in yoga, mindfulness, content marketing and management practice. laurenleigh.gibson@gmail.com

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Business Tips

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Wellness

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Talking to… Belgin Aksoy In the run-up to Global Wellness Day, which takes place on Saturday, 12 June 2021, JOANNA STERKOWICZ speaks to the movement’s founder, Turkish spa professional Belgin Aksoy

What motivated you to create Global Wellness Day (GWD) back in 2012? Until 2004, I believed I had a fairly healthy lifestyle. I was eating well, doing regular exercise, living a happy life and thought I had it all. However, in 2004, I was diagnosed with thyroid cancer and had to immediately change many things in my life. I found that the balance of health and happiness is an indispensable scale. First of all, I decided that I should change my relationship with life, because during radioactive iodine treatment, I was in isolation for nine days. Moreover, my son was only 17 months old at the time and as a new mother, I had to stop breastfeeding. My hormones were all over the place, but most importantly, I had a lot of time to think while I was all alone in that hospital room. Wellness was a new thing for me in those days. While I was

trying to educate myself about a better lifestyle, I was also looking for answers on how to get rid of radiation, or why I got sick. Little did I know that blockages in our chakras can make us sick and in

Now, with the slogan, ‘One day can change your whole life’, GWD is celebrated on the second Saturday of June every year. my case, the sentences I did not say (i.e. the words I swallowed), had made me sick. Between 2004 and 2012, I worked on myself to become the new me and started feeling healthier than ever before. In 2012, I started hearing a whisper in my ear – “Okay Belgin, we

made you sick and got you healthy. You now read life differently. So what will you do for the world?” One day, as I sat in front of my computer, I started to research when Global Wellness Day was celebrated in the world. To my surprise, I saw that there was no such day. So, I decided to create a celebration at our hotel – back then it was called Wellness Day – and we chose the second Saturday of June. In 2012, we held a modest event with 150 to 200 people at Turkey’s first destination spa, Richmond Nua Wellness-Spa. It was a day filled with physical activities, nutrition workshops, reiki and skincare. At the end of the day, a middle-aged woman told me she had tried yoga for the first time, having previously thought it was only for fit and young people, and that she was going to continue classes. I was very happy to hear that and thought about how one day


Global Wellness Day - South Africa could change a person’s life. Now, with the slogan, ‘One day can change your whole life’, GWD is celebrated on the second Saturday of June every year. It is a non-for-profit day, a social project dedicated to living well with the purpose of asking the question, even if for just one day, “How can I live a healthier and better life?” The aim is to direct the thoughts of both individuals and society towards ‘living well’ and to raise awareness.

How long did it take for the GWD concept to really gain traction around the world? During the 2014 Annual Global Spa and Wellness Summit in Morocco, I first introduced GWD to 400 leading wellness and spa delegates during a forum and surprisingly, gained their full support. At the same event, GWD also won the one-minute, graphic

animation film competition entitled, ‘The Future of the Wellness Sector’. In addition, GWD’s infographic video received first place out of the 50 countries competing and was awarded as the 2014 winner. Following this amazing event, countries started to take great interest in GWD. While it was only celebrated in one spa in 2012, it turned into an international event in 2015, where it was celebrated in over 74 countries in more than 600 locations. In 2016, ISPA (International Spa Association) presented GWD with the Innovate Award in the Philanthropic Initiatives category.

When you created the movement, wellness was not the buzzword that it is today. Please comment. The biggest obstacle we

faced in all GWD celebrating countries was to make certain that communities and societies became aware of the ‘wellness’ concept. Yes, today many are well aware that eating healthily and doing physical activities is a great way to live well, but prior to the global pandemic and even before then, ‘wellness’ was thought to be something stylish, hip and more for the elite. However, our aim with GWD for over eight years has always been to make wellness a part of every individual’s life – using seven simple steps that are possible for everyone: walk for an hour; drink more water; don’t use plastic bottles; eat healthy food; do a good deed; have a family dinner with your loved ones; and sleep at 10pm.

Do you think some companies or brands have jumped onto the wellness bandwagon just because it is trendy, rather than for authentic reasons? Prior to the global pandemic, yes. However, since COVID-19 took over the world, I believe brands, global companies, influencers

The biggest obstacle we faced in all GWD celebrating countries was to make certain that communities and societies became aware of the ‘wellness’ concept. and literally everyone around the globe now truly realises the importance of both mental and physical wellness.

Do you think that the concept of wellness has now taken on a more selfcare, medical-type slant as a result of the pandemic? Global Wellness Day - Malaysia

Due to the pandemic and lockdown, the concept of

Wellness

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24 Wellness

and Key Supporters made outstanding efforts to secure the top wellness experts, trainers and celebrities. However, the most difficult part was to find a suitable production/ broadcasting company that could actually accommodate our event. After many calls we decided to work with Zenger Agency – a truly professional team of broadcasters who made the GWD 24-Hour Livestream run seamlessly.

Global Wellness Day - Zimbabwe wellness has often been confused with terms like health, well-being, and happiness. While there are common elements among them, wellness is distinguished by not referring to a static state of being (i.e., being happy, in good health, or in a state of well-being). Rather, wellness is associated with an active process of being aware and making choices that lead toward an outcome of optimal holistic health and well-being. It is important to know that wellness is multidimensional – physical, mental, emotional, spiritual, social and environmental.

to create a physically, mentally and spiritually better world for years to come. To that end, 17 years ago my personal life and career coincided and wellness became the core of my life with the opening of Richmond Nua, Turkey’s first destination spa and one of Europe’s best equipped and award-winning spas.

Where do you think wellness is headed in the future?

At first GWD 2020 was planned as usual – every country planning a physical celebration for June 13th, but once the pandemic spread globally and everyone was in some sort of lockdown, we had to meet with our GWD Ambassadors, Key Supporters and Advisors. We created a new game plan for GWD 2020 – cancelling was not an option, especially since wellness was needed more than ever! Once the 24-Hour Livestream idea was decided upon, the GWD HQ team started working on placing every country in their possible time zones and making sure content, speakers and experts were well placed. Our GWD Ambassadors

Ten years ago, I said: “Wellness is not a luxury, it is the inherent right of every individual.” And I also said that there will be a Minister of Wellness for every country. I stand behind my words.

I believe you come from a spa background? I received my degree from the Institute Hotelier Cesar Ritz in Switzerland and have been in the tourism and hotel industry for 26 years, while working with my family to carry the Richmond International Hotel Management Company brand to the future. My mission has always been

GWD 2020 was an amazing undertaking – a continuous 24-hour live stream from New Zealand to Los Angeles. How did you go about planning the logistics for such a huge and challenging worldwide event?

What sort of participation did you have for the 2020 event? We had over 50 countries take part in the event, which featured influential wellness experts presenting during the GWD 24-Hour Live celebration. These included World Record holder wingsuit BASE jumper, Cengiz Kocak, who performed a live wingsuit BASE jump. Spiritual and meditation teacher,

Since COVID-19 took over the world, I believe brands, global companies, influencers and literally everyone around the globe now truly realises the importance of both mental and physical wellness. Sah D’Simone, led an amazing meditation, while former NBA basketball player, Omri Casspi, presented a dialogue on ‘Creating a Contagion of Wellness’ together with Dr Daniel Friedland, CEO of SuperSmarthHealth and the author of ‘Leading Well from Within’. Host of The Daily POPcast, member of *NSYNC and New York Times best-selling author, Lance Bass, made a guest appearance. There were so many


25 Wellness

other wonderful personalities presenting wellness sessions as well.

How important are the GWD Country Ambassadors, such as South Africa’s former Ambassador, Celeste Peters, in generating support for the event and in coordinating GWD activities in their own countries? To spread GWD’s message, we have appointed 100 GWD Ambassadors and 28 Key Supporters from around the world. GWD Ambassadors and Key Supporters work in coordination with each other and the mass media in their countries to help spread GWD worldwide by organising GWD celebration activities on the second Saturday of June each year.

To spread GWD’s message, we have appointed 100 GWD Ambassadors and 28 Key Supporters from around the world. The passion of Celeste Peters and all the members of GWD is truly inspiring – working day and night to spread wellness and in the end seeing the movement embraced by so many people

Global Wellness Day - Turkey around the world. Having the GWD flag reach the summit of Mount Everest, a climb I will never be able to make, or seeing a bridge built in the ‘no man’s land’ border between Thailand and Myanmar, a place I will never have a chance to visit, having aid missions organised for the needy, having support from Presidents to mayors, from schools to hospitals, from world-renowned business people to Hollywood stars, and much more – it is because of the extraordinary GWD Family of 128 people, who are touching the hearts of millions.

Given the current uncertainty around the pandemic and vaccine efficacy and roll-out, are you planning to do this year’s GWD virtually as in 2020? We have decided to once again celebrate GWD on a virtual basis. However, countries that do have flexibility will also be having a socially distanced physical celebration. So this year each country will join the global virtual celebration but also, if possible, have an online or physical event of their own as well.

Will you change anything from how things were done at last year’s GWD? Every year we try to celebrate GWD in a way that is better than

the year before. Even though GWD 2021 will be celebrated virtually, we will be focusing on the quality of the content, guests and experts rather than the quantity of the content.

Can you reveal yet any exciting things planned for GWD 2021? Unfortunately we cannot at this very moment – it must be a surprise. However, we will be definitely happy to give a sneak peek in the upcoming months – so stay tuned to www.globalwellnessday.org.

Celebrities have amazing pulling power in terms of awareness and marketing – can you mention a few celebrities who support GWD? We have received the support of: Hollywood stars such as Josh Charles (‘The Good Wife’), Ty Burrell and Jessie Tyler Ferguson from ‘Modern Family’, and Mayim Bialik (‘The Big Bang Theory’); authors such as Deepak Chopra; sports stars such as Venus Williams; and leaders of the business world including Virgin Group founder, Richard Branson. Other supporters include pop legend, Rod Stewart, Prince Harry, Meghan Markle, Oprah Winfrey, Gayle King, Dr Mehmet Oz, Robbie Williams and Dame Julie Andrews, to name a few.

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Treatment menu ENGINEERING Marisa Dimitriadis provides top tips on how to adapt your spa offering to match the challenging times we find ourselves in today

E

ngineering is the action of working artfully to bring something about. We can all agree that the world has changed and so have the people in it, so let’s work artfully to bring about treatment menus for the future. Let’s first look at what is Old World - Long treatment menus with detailed descriptions - Printed treatment menus (more like catalogues) with beautiful images - 40 different types of massages - 20 different types of facials - Treatments categorised by skin type - Treatments categorised by product brand

And now let’s look at New World - Digital menus - Treatment book (this is like a photo book) - Personalisation of treatments - Charging for time - Add-ons

Personal touch The foundation to creating a treatment menu for the future is found in one word, which you will need to embrace. This will start the change in how you run your business as well as how you train your staff. That word is – personalisation. Before I continue with the detail of treatment menus, I would like to share some interesting facts about personalisation from Contentstack.

1. 91% of consumers are more likely to shop with brands that provide offers specific and relevant to them.

2. 80% of customers are more likely to purchase products or services from brands that provide personalised experiences. 3. 79% of consumers are only likely to engage with a brand’s offer if that offer has been personalised to reflect previous interactions that the consumer has had with the brand. Therefore, consumers prefer brands that personalise. The point to note here is that you, as a salon or spa, is the brand being referred to above. So, don’t leave this personalisation to your brand partners (product houses/ suppliers); you, as a salon or spa, need to personalise your offering and experience. There are many ways to personalise the experience you offer your client and that is an article or series of articles on its own, so for now we are specifically

Photo by Andrea Piacquadio from Pexels

Spa Focus

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looking at how to personalise the treatment menu.

Emphasise consultation I would like to change the word consultation in our industry to ‘conversation’, as I feel that is what is needed. In order for a

The foundation to creating a treatment menu for the future is found in one word, which you will need to embrace. This will start the change in how you run your business as well as how you train your staff. That word is – personalisation.

Consultation Establish needs, wants and goals through personalised conversation 60 minutes R1,000 Remember, if you are a destination spa and not dealing with regular clients, the conversation time

will be shorter but you need to have a conversation in order to personalise the service. Here is an example of how to list it.

Consultation Establish needs, wants and goals through personalised conversation 15 minutes R250 At this point most of you are thinking that your clients won’t pay for the consultation. Let me leave you with this question to think about: are your consultations giving them value? Do you present a solution to their problems and needs at the consultation? The bottom line is that if you are giving value, then the client will pay. If it is just the normal, irrelevant and boring questions we have been asking for the last 20 years, then no, they won’t pay for it. So make the consultation relevant and offer real value.

Photo by Gustavo Fring from Pexels

consultation to be effective, it needs to take the shape of a conversation. A conversation is a

generally a two-way discussion, with both parties speaking, asking questions and responding. Furthermore, a conversation is also generally not short – think about when you sit down to have a conversation with a friend or a colleague. A chat is quick, but a conversation can be lengthy. The longer your conversations with your clients (especially during their first visit), the better the service delivery will be as you have clearly identified needs, wants and goals. A conversation can also set the treatment plan path, which ensures you have a return client for many months to come. So, how do you list this on your treatment menu?

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Spa Focus

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Charge for time per category of service Categories are: Massage; Facial; Grooming; Manicures; Pedicures; and Body. Then list times and prices per category. For example

Massage 45 minutes – R500 60 minutes – R800 90 minutes – R1,200 120 minutes – R1,500

Facials 45 minutes – R600 60 minutes – R900 90 minutes – R1,400

Create add-on menus per category Every category needs an add-on menu. In a digital format, the addon menu would be a click through with the different skin problems. So, for example

Facial 60 minutes Sensitive and dehydrated (click through) Oily and breakouts Anti ageing & Firming Pigmentation And so on….. In a printed format you will have add-on pages that you present to the client depending on their skin concerns, where they can then choose which add-ons to include. This is very personalised and solves a concern or problem, which is exactly what the clients are looking for. To give you the massage example

Research the latest reasons that people go for massages and create an add-on for those with specialised oils and tools. Even the music you play can be completely personalised and listed in the add-on.

Allow the client to choose when constructing packages Give the client the choice of creating their own package that is most suited to their needs. So, rather than list treatments and packages, allow them to choose their own three treatments and receive a complimentary glass of champagne and consultation, or choose their own four treatments and receive the 5th one free of charge (30 minutes).

I would like to change the word consultation in our industry to ‘conversation’, as I feel that is what is needed. In order for a consultation to be effective, it needs to take the shape of a conversation.

Massage 60 minutes Anti-stress Muscle aches and pains Cellulite Improve sleep quality Relaxation And so on…..

Offer value for the quantity of treatments selected and incorporate lunch, drinks and even bundle in retail products. Allow choice and you will sell more.

Have a ‘most popular’ listing

Photo by cottonbro from Pexels

Spa Focus Interveiw

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This works wonders! People love to buy what is most popular or trending. So, have a separate page, either digitally or printed, with the ‘most popular’ list. Then list these treatments from most profitable to least profitable and change up your list every month. You can also add treatments that you are wanting to promote to this list, especially if it is something new to get people to try it. When reading all of the above you might feel overwhelmed and think it is too much work and will take you too long. Well, the alternative is that your clients will start looking around elsewhere for personalisation and the quicker you make personalisation a part of your business, the better. Start the process with your menu of services.

Marisa Dimitriadis is the founder of The Spa Consultants and co-founder of The Spa Professionals Guild, a training network for the industry. marisa@thespaconsultants.co.za

Sonette Donker, Jane Wurwand, Cherie Ten Hope and Ilana Gush (circa 1998)

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Hairdressers Apprentices Salon owners Suppliers Packed full of new ideas, business tips and expert guides to help you grow indicidually and build your business. Email info@probeauty.co.za to secure your free copy

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Hair News

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Stylistic Endeavours

NUDO Hair Lab in Pretoria is the winner of the Salon Design category of the 2021 Salon International Hair Awards Sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional. Joanna Sterkowicz speaks to co-owner, Nastasha Watson, about creating the salon’s winning look When asked how she felt about NUDO Hair Lab scooping Best Salon Design at the Salon International Hair Awards Sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional, Nastasha Watson responds: “During the last few years we have been so focused on building our business that we haven’t really given any attention to media or competitions. So it was really fun for us to get involved in something like this.” It was back in November 2017 that Watson and her NUDO coowners, Pearl Van Wyngaardt and Debbie Serradinho, opened the salon. “Our starting point was definitely the desire to stand out.

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We wanted something new and exciting for Pretoria, in the form of high end, on trend luxury,” states Watson. In creating the salon, the owners literally started from scratch. Says Watson: “We

Our starting point was definitely the desire to stand out. We wanted something new and exciting for Pretoria, in the form of high end, on trend luxury.

completely gutted the space, from electrical and plumbing to ripping out the ceiling. Because we had such a clear vision of what we wanted, we didn’t want


operations, was the toughest part for the owners. Watson reveals that the salon is actually a lot smaller than what they wanted and needed. “We particularly desired big work stations so that clients wouldn’t feel cluttered. It was also so important for us to have a selection of beautiful spaces where the clients can relax in between having their hair done. So that’s why we have quite a big reception area, as well as a designated outdoor area. We

any of the older features of the building to get in the way of that.” As there were three people involved in the decision-making process regarding the design, look and feel of the salon, it took quite a bit of time to be able to meet in the middle of what everyone wanted. “My mom Debbie and I both

Because we had such a clear vision of what we wanted, we didn’t want any of the older features of the building to get in the way of that.

cluttered,” continues Watson. “So we made sure that we kept a lot of open spaces; all the design elements have clean and defined lines. We also brought in a lot of natural looking elements, one of which is our signature marble wallpaper and loads of synthetic greenery. We ripped out the ceilings, which were quite low, to make the area more spacious. Plus, exposed ceilings obviously add to the industrial style.”

Ebb and flow Trying to figure out the best way in which to set out the salon so as to ensure a feeling of spaciousness and to facilitate the logical ebb and flow of

love having an outside space where our clients can sit and have a glass of wine and read a magazine while they wait. This is a smoking area.”

Custom made Watson and Serradinho’s design

come from a design background. We have a furniture/ decor store with in-house interior designers, so we were really able to interpret what we wanted into what you see in the salon today.”

Minimalism In terms of the style of the salon, Watson, Serradinho and Wyngaardt went for minimalist industrial. “Minimalist is always very hard in a salon space because there are so many important elements that can make the space seem

Pearl Van Wyngaardt and Nastasha Watson online @ probeauty.co.za

Hair News

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Interview

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background really came to the fore in terms of the fact that most of the elements in the salon were custom made, from the reception furniture to the styling stations. A lot of pieces were

Ask yourself the question – how do you want your clients to feel when they walk through the door? custom made by Watson’s design business, Vintage Vista. Each station has a large, circular movie star dressing room type mirror, with an illuminated edge. Basic salon equipment and furnishings were sourced through Marica. “We just had such a clear vision of what we wanted that we were not willing to compromise on anything. This includes our bubble-like lighting fixtures as lighting is so important in a

salon, and you can never have enough of it. Lighting is also such a clever way to create a glam and luxury look.”

Greenery There is lots of greenery dotted about the salon, particularly in the waiting area. States Watson: “It was important for us for our space to still seem cosy and warm. Greenery has a beautiful way of doing that. Our vertical green wall is a space for our clients to take before & after selfies, as it really photographs

beautifully.” As to what advice she would give to someone wanting to open and outfit a salon, Watson comments: “I think it’s vital to have a defined vision before you start anything. You need to be clear on the type of style of salon that you want, the design and the layout. Ask yourself the question – how do you want your clients to feel when they walk through the door? We honestly spent about six months on defining our salon identity before we even touched our space.”


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33 Male Grooming – Products

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Skincare

34 2

The year of

‘Skinimalism’ In January, social media platform Pinterest forecast that ‘skinimalism’ would be one of the prevailing beauty trends for 2021

‘Skinimalism’ is described as a new wave of natural, minimal or no-make-up beauty looks, which sees women letting their natural skin texture shine through. This minimalist trend, where skincare and make-up are stripped down, is hardly surprising following, as it does, over a year of the world having to hide their faces behind COVID-19 protective masks. According to ‘The ‘Pinterest Predicts: The Soon-to-beTrending Report for 2021’, ‘glowing skin – how to get [it] naturally’ soared +4x, while ‘natural everyday make-up’ searches increased 180%. Thus, multi-tasking products that blur the lines between make-up and skincare have come to the fore.

DermaFix A prime example of a ‘skinimalist’ product is a BB (Blemish Balm) cream. DermaFix BB Creams offer an all-in-one formulation that helps even out skin tone, while simultaneously providing essential sun protection, illuminating a dull complexion and creating a flawless finish. The DermaFix BB Cream is enriched with vitamin E and soy peptides for a powerful antioxidant and antiageing benefit and is available in four shades. For even more anti-ageing and oil-control benefits, the skin can be primed using DermaFix BB Cream Primer, helping to reduce the appearance of pores, fine lines and wrinkles and allowing for a longlasting make-up application. Formulated with chamomile, pine tree cone extract and rosemary leaf extracts, DermaFix BB Cream Primer provides anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial benefits, helping to control oil balance and breakouts, whilst calming inflammation and skin redness.

Esse The team at Esse Skincare maintain that more often than one would imagine, skincare products can harm the skin’s microbiome. They continue: “It is our advice that anyone struggling with any

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sort of skin ailment should start by cutting right back to the basics. Cleanse only in the evening and only if you are removing make-up – otherwise, rinse with cool water. Apply a little microbiome-friendly moisturiser and continue in this way for two weeks before starting to reintroduce other products back into your routine “There is good reason to forgo your morning cleanse in favour of a little splash with water, because the natural oils that


Photo by Raj Rana on Unsplash

your skin produces overnight are very expensive (metabolically) to produce, so it makes sense to assume that they are important. Our research has led to the discovery that these skin oils (sebum) are very useful to healthy skin microbes, the sorts of microbes you really want on your skin. By removing all these good oils, we compromise our skin microbiome and open the playing field to unwanted bacteria that cause all manner of skin concerns, from acne to eczema and rosacea. “Esse is all about creating a balanced skin microbiome – all our moisturisers contain prebiotics to feed good skin microbes to keep them happy.” The Esse Foundations contain prebiotics and probiotics, as well as a range of other active, microbiome safe ingredients. Prebiotics are the food that probiotics need to flourish to keep your skin healthy. Those probiotics included contain Esse’s Level 3 BIOME + Technology, consisting of tyndallised lactobacillus bacteria. These bacteria are capable of locking onto skin cells and strengthening your skin’s barrier function. For clients who want to promote a healthy skin microbiome that resists pollution, the Esse Foundation is the solution to healthy and beautifully made-up skin.

Dermalogica The International Dermal Institute notes that the need for multitasking, multifunctional products is an ever growing demand from clients. Dermalogica’s Skin Perfect Primer SPF 30 fights skin ageing, balances skin tone and enhances luminosity. Physical sunscreens provide Broad Spectrum defense. Whether worn alone or

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as a foundation prep, SkinPerfect Primer SPF30 delivers both skin health and cosmetic benefits. It provides a post-moisturiser/ prefoundation treatment that helps smooth and even the texture of skin, all while delivering critical SPF protection against skin-aging UV light. The skin health experts at The International Dermal Institute have developed a formula that will redefine your client’s expectations of a primer, fusing the powerful skin treatment technology of the AGE Smart® system with the a primer. SkinPerfect Primer SPF30 delivers three benefits in one for healthy, illuminated skin; radiant, even skin tone, invisible sun protection; and powerful skin treatment containing ingredients known to fight the biochemical triggers that lead to skin ageing, including Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS, also known as free radicals), Matrix Metalloproteinases (MMPs) and Advanced Glycation End-products (AGEs). Blur Primer and the Sheer Tint SPF 20 in light, medium and dark tones.

SIX The new BB Cream from SIX Skincare is not only full of amazing ingredients, but is also an antiinflammatory and therefore suitable

for use after aesthetic procedures. BB Cream is a blemish balm for those who want a single moisturiser to protect, nourish and provide a natural, healthy glow finish to the skin. With titanium dioxide to reflect the sun rays, centella asiatica (coconut oil) to build collagen and niacinamide (vitamin B3) as an anti-inflammatory, this all-inone BB Cream is a must have. It is a perfect finish to any aesthetic treatments like collagen induction therapy (needling), skin peeling, plasma and laser treatments.

RefectoCil The trend for barely there makeup paralleled with natural skincare products is the foundation of the new ‘skinimalism’ movement that sees clients wanting a more natural look when it comes to their beauty treatments. Thus, opting for lash and brow tinting, lash lift and lash curl treatments and brow lift treatments to provide a noticeable yet natural groomed appearance to the lashes and brows, has been on the increase. RefectoCil provides a diverse range of eyelash and eyebrow tints that are 100% vegan plant based and can accommodate all your clients’ lash and brow needs. Made up of two ranges, the original RefectoCil Tints and the newer RefectoCil Sensitive Series guarantee the perfect colour to match your skin tone and complexion. professional lash curl and lash lift treatments to open up the eye area and create the appearance of longer lashes naturally. Their latest Brow Lift treatment is the perfect way to shape and sculpt unruly eyebrows and set them in the desired shape for up to six weeks. PB

online @ probeauty.co.za


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Therm Adver

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mavein rt

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Devices

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The vanquishing of thread veins Spider veins are tiny, superficial purple or red veins just underneath the skin. As the name suggests, they usually appear in a pattern similar to a spider web. Here we look at some leading aesthetic devices in the market that target this condition

Although both men and women may suffer from them, spider veins (or thread veins) are not nearly as common for men as they are for women. But they affect people of all age groups, skin types and lifestyles. These purple or red veins develop most commonly on the face and legs and can cover either a very small, or very large, area of skin. They differ to varicose veins, which are distended veins beneath the skin that are no longer functional.

ThermaVein® ThermaVein® provides safe fast and effective treatment for the removal

of red thread veins, otherwise known as telangiectasia, and vascular blemishes from across the entire body. The brand’s machines are used by hundreds of leading clinics worldwide and across the UK, where thousands of successful treatments are performed. This system uses a thermocoagulation process. An insulated probe with a 4Mhz current is applied to the skin, causing the vein to empty. ThermaVein® then creates a seal by gently heating the vein wall, allowing the body to naturally reabsorb the vein. The low current ensures the blood does not coagulate, making it a very safe

and sought-after walk-in walkout treatment. The treatment is instant, effective and permanent. ThermaVein® is a recognised and trusted brand that offers an acclaimed treatment, with virtually no risk to the patient and with market-leading results. Treatments are only 15 minutes and are


POWER - EFFICACY - SPEED - SAFETY in

VASCULAR TREATMENTS The versatility of the DEKA systems and sources (585nm Solid State Laser, Dye Laser, Nd:YAG, Pulsed Light, RightLight™) make it possible to treat all vascular lesions safely and effectively.

Strengths High-powered laser technology Precise, safe and quick treatments

Diode Laser 580nm

Suitable for all skin types Minimal downtime

Dye Laser 595nm

Nd:YAG 1064nm

Low maintenance cost

Modular system with pulsed light & laser

www.hitechlasers.co.za +27 12 349 1250 F: HitechGroupSA online @ probeauty.co.za


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positioned as a safe alternative to IPL, laser and electrolysis. There is minimal risk of skin damage. This system eliminates the common side-effects associated with other treatments, such as bruising and scarring. In addition to treating thread veins, ThermaVein® can be used to treat milia, skin tags, Campbell-de-Morgan spots, cherry angioma, spider naevi, vascular blemishes and ankle thread veins. The technology is also commonly used in conjunction with microsclerotherapy and advanced treatment options are also available. With proven technology that is supported by independent clinical trials, ThermaVein® is a market leader in the aesthetic treatment of telangiectasia and skin blemishes. The equipment does not use costly consumables, making ROI attractive and profitable. This system comes with enough consumables to treat 200 patients and a two year warranty. Technology is MDD CE 93/42 compliant, FDA listed, ANVISA registered and manufactured in the EU. ThermaVein® is fully CE compliant as a medical device to EEC directive 93/42.

The high precision of the laser delivers high energy to the target in a very selective way without epidermal damage. The DenaVe pulsed emission is shorter than the vessel’s TRT (Thermal Relaxation Time), guaranteeing a purpura-free treatment. This makes the system suitable for all skin types. DenaVe ensures maximum patient comfort with minimal risk of side effects. The DenaVe inoffice 30-minute treatment is nonsurgical and requires no numbing products or anaesthesia, and no downtime.

Synchro VasQ Synchro VasQ for dermatological vascular treatments is a 595nm wavelength Dye laser, which treats a large number of vascular lesions and other indications. The 595nm wavelength is clinically proven to be highly effective for

DenaVe New to the market and available from Hitech Lasers, the DenaVe – 585 solid state laser is designed by DEKA to close unsightly spider and other veins and reduce or eliminate their appearance. The treatments are non-invasive, fast, effective and safe, without any disruption to normal activities. DenaVe is a unique, compact and transportable 585nm solid state laser emitting through fibreoptic cable. It uses FSOPS (Frequency Shifted Optically Pumped Semiconductor) Technology, which makes treatment of vascular lesions easier, faster and more cost-effective.

absorption in haemoglobin. Laser energy precisely targets the area under the skin’s surface, leaving the top layer of skin intact. The light heats up the blood in the vein, causing it to coagulate and immediately shrink the vessel. Because of the body’s natural healing process, the blood in the targeted veins will be absorbed, while the veins will disappear. Available from Hitech Lasers, this device features a Dye lamp with RightLight™ Technology in a special hand piece with selective action and protection of the dermal structures surrounding the lesion. RightLight™ treats an area up to 6.3cm2. Energy is released in micro pulses, with the benefit of reducing post-treatment purpura.

The greater amount of energy available makes it possible to use a maximum spot size of 12mm, which improves the therapeutic approach and the treatment speed. Spot sizes range from 5-12 mm. In addition to treating various vascular lesions, the device can also be used in the treatment of psoriasis, warts, scars and acne, without the annoying problem of post-treatment purpura.

ClearVein Alma Lasers, distributed by Best Lasers, has created the ClearVein Laser attachment for the Harmony XL Pro laser treatment to eradicate spider veins and vascular lesions with a unique wavelength of light. This non-invasive laser treatment utilises a long pulse of light laser energy to destroy the defective vein altogether. The wave energy precisely targets the area under the skin’s surface so that the top layer of skin is left completely intact and untouched. The vein absorbs the laser energy and then immediately collapses, with an immediately visible blanching of the vessel. Advanced fluorescence technology (AFT) and cuttingedge laser technology make it possible to reduce and eliminate your cosmetic vein problems in just one sitting.

online @ probeauty.co.za

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Promotional Feature

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The Plasma Era NEOGEN Plasma skin regeneration (PSR) is a novel method for resurfacing skin through the use of thermal energy, which is dissipated at varying energy levels and depths throughout the epidermis and dermis Neogen PSR technology is not chromophore dependent, nor is it ablative, fractional or invasive. This technology avoids vapourising or charring the epidermis. Plasma thermal energy release results in the stimulation of regional inflammation, promoting tissue remodeling, wound healing and rapid healing. Repeated treatment over time leads to progressive skin rejuvenation beyond 12 months. The use of higher energy pulses allows for deeper tissue penetration and skin tightening. PSR has been shown to improve fine lines, moderate-to-deep rhytides and the texture and tone of photo-aged skin. According to consultant physician, Professor Syed Haq, one can achieve equivalent or even improved results using PSR when compared with ablative procedures, with only half the downtime. He continues: “This allows you to customise settings to meet patients’ expectations, with treatment protocols ranging from a ‘pain free, no downtime’ treatment to the equivalent of a full ablative treatment. “Precision treatment of multiple indications are able to be encompassed in a short therapeutic window using Neogen PSR. The safety profile of treatments is online @ probeauty.co.za

excellent and it is suitable for the face, perioral and periorbital areas, neck, jawline, décolletage, hands, abdomen and limbs.”

creates a natural dressing to provide protection and speed up the healing process.

Fourth state

Following the success of Neogen PSR and SPA, Energist has launched the next generation of plasma skin rejuvenation technology in the form of the Neogen EVO system. This specific system has been purposely designed for dermatologists, aesthetic doctors and nurses. Over the past few years more than 50000 treatments have been performed worldwide, with 30 Institutional Review Board Clinically Controlled studies carried out. This has led to date with seven specific indications of use that have been cleared by the US FDA.

Plasma is the fourth state of matter. The Neogen PSR device consists of an ultra-high-frequency radiofrequency generator that excites a tuned resonator and imparts energy to a flow of inert nitrogen gas within the handpiece. This leads to the release of electrons from their atoms, leaving the atom in a positively charged state. When the same electron is ‘recaptured’ by its positively charged atom, energy is either emitted or stored by the gas molecules intrinsically. The activated ionised gas is termed plasma. Nitrogen is able to purge oxygen from the surface of the skin, minimising the risk of unpredictable hot spots, charring, and scar formation. On formation, the plasma is directed through a quartz nozzle in a 6mm-diameter spot that is able to release energy at different degrees in the form of thermal heat. As the plasma hits the skin, energy is rapidly transferred to the skin surface, causing instantaneous heating in a controlled uniform manner, without an explosive effect on tissue or epidermal removal. This

Neogen EVO system

Neogen Plasma South Africa Since 2020, Neogen Plasma South Africa has been the exclusive Southern African Distributor for The Energist Medical Group, the UK’s leading developer, provider and manufacturer of aesthetic laser and plasma technology for use in medical, cosmetic & beauty procedures. Contact 072 944 7674 andrea@neogenplasma.co,za www.neogenplasma.co.za


OPEN YOUR EYES TO THE FUTURE OF SKIN REGENERATION

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Best Innovative Medical Equipment 2020 Medical Beauty Awards Athens, Greece

NEOGENPLASMA

EYELIFT Solutions for Ageing Eyes Distributed by Neogen Plasma South Africa www.neogenplasma.co.za

072 944 7674

Photo by Lukas Pexels

Gold Award

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Behind the Mask

Pic by Mika Baumeister on Unsplash

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Karen Ellithorne looks at the rise of two new skin conditions resulting from the preventative wearing of facial masks, namely maskitis and maskne

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earing a protective mask daily, covering the mouth and nose area when going out in public, has become a legislated necessity in order to protect the population from contracting COVID-19. Unfortunately, this practice has had a detrimental effect on the skin. Sandton-based dermatologist, Dr Lushen Pillay, says that a skin condition known as maskitis has become very common over recent months and can be easily confused with maskne. He notes that the symptoms and treatments of each condition are very different, with maskitis

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presenting as a dry and flaky rash. This rash can spread if left untreated. It is marked by small bumps, redness, inflammation and

We are seeing that more patients are suffering from maskitis than maskne, and genetic predisposition can be an underlying risk factor for developing the former. dry, flaky skin. “We are seeing that more patients are suffering from maskitis than maskne, and genetic predisposition can be

an underlying risk factor for developing the former. If you have a history of asthma, hay fever or eczema, or a positive family history, you’re more likely to develop maskitis,” comments Pillay. Maskne, on the other hand, says Pillay, often affects those who have a history of acne or oily, blemish-prone skin. However, having said this, maskne can affect anyone.

Cleanliness Lourette du Toit, manager of Dermology in Sandton, suggests that patients only apply clean hands onto clean skin, with the same applying to protective masks. She comments: “Make sure you wash your face morning and


Treatment “We have seen multiple patients at Dermology who think they have maskne, but in fact they had maskitis,” she continues. “Because the two are very different, they need to be treated entirely differently. A maskne

Because maskne and maskitis are very different, they need to be treated entirely differently. A maskne treatment on skin presenting as maskitis can worsen the condition dramatically. treatment on skin presenting as maskitis can worsen the condition dramatically.” When treating maskne, Pillay recommends that you use products that target acne, focusing on acids like salicylic acid, azelaic acid, retinoids and topical

antibacterials, which will help to target bacteria and inflammation caused by blemishes. He advises that you see your doctor if it doesn’t clear up to prevent the formation of scars. “As we are dealing with active breakouts and excess oil production, a combination of peels and light works very well in salon. My favourites are DermaQuest’s Pumpkin Peel and our Forever Clear BBL,” says du Toit. Pillay suggests that when it comes to dealing with maskitis, it’s important to keep the skin hydrated and to use a gentle, soap-free cleanser twice a day. Use a good sunscreen and try to minimise make-up or pore clogging products in the mask area. Use products with anti-inflammatory ingredients, especially those containing niacinamide. Avoid using detergent or products with fragrance, which cause irritation. Du Toit highly recommends Thoclor’s GF1 when treating maskitis. “Its anti-inflammatory properties helps to reduce inflammation and heal the skin quicker with much less risk of complications such as infection or post inflammatory hyperpigmentation,” she says. The very best option for both conditions, says du Toit, is PDT Light. “This treatment often gets underrated in clinics, but I have seen major improvement in inflammatory skin conditions

by adding this simple treatment protocol.” Prevention is ultimately better than cure, so take this opportunity in your practices and salons to educate your customers on the importance of daily skin hygiene and regular professional treatments.

Contributors

Dr Lushen Pillay is a consultant dermatologist at Wits University, where he completed his postgraduate degree as well as a Masters in Dermatology. He founded Skinderm, a discrete skin clinic based in Morningside, Sandton. Lourette du Toit is an award winning manager and dermal aesthetician with over 14 years’ experience in the industry. She currently runs a big medical aesthetic practice in the heart of Sandton, and helped grow the business from strength to strength for the past seven years. She is also actively involved in the industry by writing articles for wellknown magazines, presenting at aesthetic congresses and lecturing at educational institutes.

A qualified aesthetician, Karen Ellithorne has been actively involved in the skincare industry since 1992, working as a lecturer and therapist, as well as successfully importing and distributing various products throughout South Africa. karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za

online @ probeauty.co.za

Aesthetic Medicine

evening with a good skin cleanser to ensure all the sweat, dirt and make-up that got trapped under the mask during the day are completely removed. A clean mask is super-important, as it will help prevent the spread and cause of new breakouts.” Pillay adds: “Rather use a disposable mask every day and try to remove the mask when alone in a room, to give your skin time to breathe and recover. Keep your skin regime simple and avoid applying too many products. Your night time regime is probably the most important – cleanse gently and try using an anti-inflammatory product with niacinamide, and try to avoid alcohol based products.” Du Toit suggests a soft cloth mask, buff or even a face shield as a better option for those suffering from maskitis, as you want to avoid or limit the constant friction on the skin.

Photo by Engin Akyurt on Unsplash

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CELLULAR DEFENSE

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Aesthetic Skin Conditions Medicine

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Maskne vs maskitis product focus Pic by Mika Baumeister on Unsplash

In our ‘Behind the mask’ article on the preceding pages, we defined the differences between maskne and maskitis. Here we look at what professional products are recommended for each condition DermaFix For oily and inflamed maskne concerns, DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care recommends the incorporation of Mandelic AHA into your skin care routine. This mild Alpha Hydroxy Acid has antiinflammatory and antimicrobial properties, and provides deepcleansing exfoliation benefits, whilst helping to brighten the skin. This super ingredient is found in the DermaFix DermaBright, DermaFix MD Mandelic Cleanser, and DermaFix MD Mandelic Toner. The incorporation of Niacinamide alongside Mandelic Acid within the MD Mandelic Cleanser and MD Mandelic Toner promotes further skin healing benefits whilst regulating oil production within the skin.

For dryer maskne concerns, and for the concern of maskitis, balancing the skin barrier health and calming inflammation is imperative. DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care offers DermaFix CBD Lotion and DermaFix CBD Oil, formulated with organic Swiss Hemp Cannabidiol, known to soothe and hydrate an irritated skin, whilst helping to reduce skin redness and reactivity. For skin cleansing purposes, the new DermaFix Calming MicroFoam Cleanser is a creamy hypoallergenic cleanser that transforms into delicate micro-bubbles, lifting impurities from deep within pores to gently purify the skin, removing excess oil and make-up. It assists to soothe skin irritation and inflammation, improving skin barrier health, and leaves the skin feeling refreshed and calmed with a visibly more radiant complexion.

SkinPhD To offer the best possible results in clearing conditions caused by the wearing of masks, SkinPhD believes it’s necessary to look at the various reasons behind the problem. Firstly, carbon dioxide is trapped between the skin and mask, which will irritate the skin and stimulate oil production as well as bacterial growth. The best ingredients to deal with this concern long term is pure aroma oils. They have proven their efficacy over years and SkinPhD therefore recommends dropping one drop onto your mask before covering up. The Aromacology De-stress oil will not only offer an optimal antibacterial action but also assist with anxiety, sinuses, headaches and much more.


Due to the friction between mask and skin, the skin barrier or first protection method becomes impaired. This leads the skin to a secondary protection response, which in many people is excessive oil production. SkinPhD’s Breakout control gel not only controls oil production but assists with breakouts, congestion and continual barrier repair to relieve this problem. In terms of maskitis, inflammation is a natural sideeffect on a dry to sensitised skin, once the skin barrier has been impaired due to friction on the skin from wearing a mask. Thus it is necessary to repair the skin barrier and reduce the skin’s inflammatory response. Once these concerns are treated, the dryness and flakiness improves dramatically. SkinPhD’s Tissue Repair Supplement focuses on all of the above-mentioned concerns in one easy application. “When the inflammation from maskitis becomes more advanced, to the point where the skin starts cracking, you often cannot use typical topical creams as they are not formulated to work on open skin. This is where SkinPhD’s Silver healing gel is a winner. It immediately calms and cools and inflamed skin, and assists in healing open skin effectively. By utilising Ionic Colloidal Silver, the skin’s natural healing mechanisms are triggered, inflammation is reduced dramatically and damaged skin is healed optimally,” says SkinPhD’s Diana van Sittert.

Esse Esse believes in strengthening the barrier function by supporting a healthy skin microbiome with pH balanced products that do not contain harsh preservatives, and supplementing your skincare routine with pre- and probiotics. The brand advises using a creambased cleanser and not cleansing in the morning.

Esse suggests using Protect Oil, which gets straight to work to repair the skin’s barrier and soothes and calms a sensitive, reactive skin. With Ximenia oil, the Protect Oil forms a protective layer on the skin when exposed to UV or free radicals due to the polymerisation of ximenynic acid. This protects the skin from external aggressors, whilst healing the symptoms of maskne and other mask related skin conditions.

AQ Skin Solutions Amy Knoetze, owner of Pulse Dermatology & Laser, believes that when treating maskitis in clinic, it’s best to be gentle and not aggravate the skin as any treatment causing inflammation will only make it worse. She says: “I

would use a mild and gentle cleanser with no actives in it or AHAs, and then put the patient under pure redlight LED to calm the inflammation. Directly after, I would apply 0.5ml AQ Skin Solutions Recovery Serum to put the skin into an accelerated state of healing. The client leaves this on for 24 hours and can then start with the AQ Skin Solutions Active Serum twice a day to control the skin long term. It’s also the most awarded anti-ageing serum globally so the patient can use it all over the face.”

Dermalogica According to Dermalogica, the most common kind of maskne is acne mechanica. The brand’s precleanse oil removes oily buildup inside the follicles and on the surface of the skin, leaving the skin clean. Afterwards, use

ultracalming cleanser, which addresses the skin’s microbiome, to help balance the good bacteria and reduce bad bacteria Dermalogica’s hydro masque exfoliant is a 2-in-1 formula that exfoliates and hydrates in five minutes. For treating breakouts, anti-inflammatory forumulas that include salicylic acid are recommended, such as age bright clearing serum in the morning and evening. Skin can be kept hydrated with a lightweight moisturiser, such as active moist or calm water gel. To treat maskitis, Dermalogica suggests the ultracalming serum concentrate, which restores the barrier function and replenishes the lipids for a healthy and hydrated skin. It reduces irritation, leaving the skin more resilient. Calm water gel (with aloe vera and hyaluronic acid) provides the ultimate hydration, while instantly soothing and calming the skin. For the flakey, itchy and irritated areas, use Dermalogica’s barrier repair, which can be layered over a moisturiser or used on its own if the skin is very irritated.

SIX The SIX Purifying & Mattifying Booster is a super effective serum that reduces pore size, sorts out an oily T-panel on the skin and regulates oil production in the skin. It contains the active from lemon fruit extract that regulates sebum secretion, and orange fruit extract to significantly stimulate collagen production. Vitamin B3 improves the skin’s surface, smoothing out the texture. Other ingredients include bilberry fruit extract and sugar maple extract.

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Product News

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In the market

Our round-up of new products and treatments

Manly Moisturiser

Probiotic Power From Esse, the Probiotic Ampoule and Exclusion Mask create an environment on the skin during treatment that favours the growth of beneficial probiotics for in-clinic microbiome intervention. The Probiotic Ampoule contains a high dose of three species of live Lactobacillus bacteria (5 billion colony forming units per ml), while the Exclusion Mask creates an anaerobic environment on the skin.

(033) 212 3506

The Masculinity Moisturizing Day Crème from Beauté Pacifique incorporates the squalane encapsulation of active ingredients to ensure quick absorption and skin softening properties. This product contains hyaluronic acid to maintain a high level of moisture throughout the day. Niacinamide and sodium PCA bind in extra moisture into the deepest layers of the skin.

073 053 8830

Big Boost

Amazing Acids

The NeoStrata® Resurface Glycolic Renewal Serum targets a smoother, radiant complexion with improved overall skin quality. Glycolic acid speeds up cell turnover rate and visibly improves skin radiance, texture and tone, while lactobionic acid is an exfoliator and antioxidant that helps prevent and reverse the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

011 545 9300

With 10% niacinamide, the SKNlogic B10 serum booster dramatically improves uneven skin tone and the appearance of pore size, skin texture and fine lines. Niacinamide is a powerful multi-dimensional active that helps repair the skin’s lipid barrier and minimises redness and blotchiness. It also helps regulate oil production in the skin and treats hyperpigmentation.

021 552 6999


Serums

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Issue 40

April 2021

KNOW YOUR STUFF Misinformation nailed

CUSTOM MADE Salon press on nails

Photo by Ali Pazani from Pexels

STOCK CONTROL Are you up to date?


Welcome

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hile the internet and social media have proved themselves to be more or less indispensable to modern life, there is always a danger that both these platforms can be a conduit for misinformation. We include in this issue an important article detailing how misinformation is harming the nail industry and how you, as nail professionals, need to be able to source and recognise the correct information from reliable sources. Our ‘Ask the Experts’ article in this issue reveals how offering high quality, custom made press on nails in your salon can be a viable way to generate extra revenue. Such an offering is perfect for clients who don’t want gel or acrylic enhancements but who still want stand out nails for special occasions. If applied correctly and if the client follows the special care instructions, such nails can last for several weeks. As with every nail competition that NailFile runs, we were happy to receive a flurry of delightful entries for our ‘Swinging Sixties’ Nail Design Challenge. We report on the Top 3 entries on our news page.

Joanna Sterkowicz

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62 Step by step

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Misinformation is harming our industry Why the correct information is so important

Ask the Experts

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Top Tech Talk

Industry News

Stay in the know

Offering salon custom press on nails

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Managing stock levels online @ probeauty.co.za

Product Hub Latest releases

Ice cream swirl

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53 News

NEWS

Chantelle Ayres wins ‘Swinging Sixties’ nail competition

The winner of NailFile’s ‘Swinging Sixties’ Nail Design Challenge sponsored by Bio Sculpture is Chantelle Ayres, for her exquisite set and outstanding step by step presentation. Juanita Bester came second, with Candida De Lange in third place. The 1960s was a fascinating era in history that spawned a whole range of ‘mod’ fashion and iconic models, as well as the colourful hippie culture.

1st Place In her winning set, Chantelle Ayres was inspired to celebrate the ‘extraordinary fashion designs of the 1960s’ and how they transformed fashion and design. She also wanted to highlight the ‘it girls’ and models of the era, opting for a black & white palette. The judges described her set as ‘spot on’ and ‘phenomenal’. They said: “This entry was really beautifully done, with every detail on point – the 2D gum coming out of one of the model’s lips, the rings, the bow, the camera and the scissors. All so neatly done and well finished off. “Chantelle’s whole take and translation of the theme was brilliant – the black & white print fashion Twiggy theme with touches of colour was very cleverly thought out. The hand painted faces looked like they had been printed, so precise and absolutely exceptional, meticulously and beautifully finished. We loved her presentation that was done in the form of a magazine. Every detail was well thought out and presented, even her final image with the magazine printed background.”

2nd Place Juanita Bester drew inspiration from the colourful hippie phase of the 1960s and wanted to do a set that had a ‘chilled’ feel it, while simultaneously representing the ‘vibe’ of the times. The judges thought Bester’s step by step presentation was excellent and her work ‘really, really good’. They said: “Juanita’s nails were extremely neat and well finished off. We also loved the little TikTok video she created to demonstrate the moving lava lamp – that was brilliant.”

3rd Place Candida De Lange’s set clearly reflected her desire to create a colourful ‘poster vibe’ to her nails, complete with floral designs and peace signs. “We just loved the colourfulness of Candida’s work, which was lovely. There was a variety of different techniques and elements in her set. She also did a great step by step,” commented the judges.

Thanks to our sponsor


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the EXPERTS

Image courtesy of Candice Rabie

Business Tips

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QUESTION: I am interested in offering press on nails at my salon – what do I need to know?

here is a huge difference in the quality, authenticity and look of custom made salon press on nails and those you would find at a mass retailer. There are many advantages for a salon to offer custom made nails as you have full control over the look, size, length and shape of the press on nails, whereas shop bought nails are flimsy and do not allow you the freedom to design your own set. Also, the sizes and product material (plastic) of shop bought nails are inflexible and not comfortable for the natural nail bed. Custom press on nails are made with real gel products and hand designed by a skilled nail technician, who can create a set

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that cannot be distinguished from enhancements, as the nail tech even creates a beautiful apex in long nails that helps with durability and looks like the client’s own natural nails. In terms of what the best material is to make press on nails, I personally use imported full cover tips, but South Africa now has a whole variety of great suppliers. Combined with gels and builders and depending on what I am creating, I have found that it is better to try and keep the nail as flexible as possible, because some clients have a flat nail bed, so press ons tend to lift easily. That’s why I use gel as opposed to acrylic. I have a measuring guide for those clients who cannot come in

for a fitting. We also stock the box with 12 different sizes and 18 nails included. A set of nails comes with its very own kit so that clients can apply their nails hygienically, and also remove them properly. Sticky tags and nail glue are provided in the kit. Press on nails are an ideal alternative for special occasions and events and should not be worn permanently.

Retail display Because I already know my type of clientele and the variety of press ons that are sought after, I do not over create sets. However, you can keep stock of a few designs in your salon and display them in your retail section. Having said that, nail trends do evolve quickly,


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Press on nails take me the exact same time, if not longer, to create than enhancements. Because my press ons are handmade and of superior quality, I start my pricing from R450 and up, depending on what the client would like. If looked after properly by the client, press on sets can be re-used several times. Some of my clients have a few sets now and they mix and match their own style as they like.

Durability How long the nails will last all depends on what the client needs the set for and whether it is for a single event only, or for full month wear. This plays a huge part in the nails’ reusability. Typically, press ons can last anything from three days to six weeks, depending on the method of application. Press ons should not come off in the bath or shower if the application instructions are followed and the nail is properly prepped.

There are many advantages for a salon to offer custom made nails as you have full control over the look, size, length and shape of the press on nails, whereas shop bought nails are flimsy and do not allow you the freedom to design you own set.

Removal To remove the nails, you take a bowl of warm water and soak the nails for at least 30 minutes, softening the natural nail. I like adding some oil to the water. Use the orange wood stick from your kit and gently press it at the

How long the nails will last all depends on what the client needs the set for and whether it is for a single event only, or for full month wear. This plays a huge part in the nails’ reusability.

long period of time, I do not recommend this method because

would prefer, or just go in straight with cuticle oil and cuticle cream. Press on nails have proved very popular at my salon. It is such a pleasure to be able to give ladies the option of looking beautiful at any event, by using a product that does not even take 15 minutes to apply. We can now even cater for the lady who does not enjoy sitting and having her nails done in the salon and give her the option of stepping out and looking fabulous.

Business Tips

Pricing

side of your sidewalls and bring it around. The nail will pop off by itself – don’t force the product. If the product is applied for a

Safety I feel that we, as the advocators of beauty, should always keep the health and safety of each and every client in mind. We need to make clear to clients the devastating effects press on nails can have to the natural nail if not applied correctly, and also the

Image courtesy of Candice Rabie

so if you over create, you will end up with dead stock.

this is only for reuse. If you are looking for extended wear, I would apply a layer of base gel and then apply the tip to the protected nail, thus giving you six weeks. However, this will not allow you to use the nail again as it will have to be soaked off at the end of use with acetone, which will dissolve the product. I have clear instructions on how to prep the nail after use. We supply alcohol wipes to sanitise the nail and the orange stick to push back cuticles. The nail plate should be lightly buffed to make sure all glue is removed from the nail. Apply your own choice of polish if that is something you

excessive use of artificial nails, or reapplication without following the appropriate preparations and not removing old glue on the nail.

Candice Rabie is a qualified nail technician, the owner of Beauty Goddess Salon in Johannesburg, the creator of the Nail Tech SA Support Facebook Group, and the founder of Plush & Blush Press on Nails

online @ probeauty.co.za


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Top tips for managing stock levels

Y

our stock should always reflect the current trend and times as accurately as possible, although it can be quite unpredictable and

Lea Castro provides valuable insight into how to ensure that you have sufficient stock to meet all needs at all times

1. 2. 3.

There are three key factors when it comes to stock ordering and control, whether it’s during a worldwide pandemic or at any given time for that matter. Core items Trend / Limited editions Overstocks

Core professional and retail stock Your number 1 priority is to stay in stock of your core selling items at all times, no matter what. If your clients can’t buy their basic products from you, this will negatively impact their business as well as yours in the long run. There will come a time where your supplier is out of your clients an alternative or solution until you are back in stock again. Service is always key!

online @ probeauty.co.za


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There will come a time where your supplier is out of stock of a specific item, so be sure to be able to offer your clients an alternative or solution until you are back in stock again.

It is important to focus on the current trend and sales to project your forecast as accurately as possible to ensure you carry enough stock to cover you until your next shipment arrives. Everyone’s circumstances are different, however here are some points to consider. • Place your orders every four to six weeks, especially if you order from international suppliers to keep your import costs, freight and shipping to a minimum. • Plan your forecast with a two to three month forward cover based on the last three months’ sales, including previous seasonal trends, i.e. winter, summer, Mother’s Day, Christmas etc. • With freight and delivery so unpredictable during this pandemic, make sure your forecast includes enough lead time to cover your stock quantities as well. • Current stock levels too of course need to be taken into consideration into your calculation. • High priced equipment and units etc. should be ordered and paid up front by your clients where possible as this can eat into your budget very quickly.

Trend / Limited editions Your next priority is to keep your brand interesting and exciting. There is so much on social media

on what is trending in the beauty and fashion industry, therefore your brand needs to keep up with the times and keep the endconsumer interested. Get your distributors on board to get their buy-in on limited editions and offers before you go and buy too much and then sit with these overstocks when the trend is over. If your distributors are involved in the ‘decision making’ process

Stock sitting around and holding up your cash flow is an absolute NO! It’s time to reduce your line to your core basics and clear these cash stealers. and you take their input into consideration, this will in turn result in purchasing and selling of these products with more success. Be wise and conservative to a point with these purchases to avoid overstocks. Re-order from your supplier if it’s an absolute hit. Create an urgency with your marketing: Limited edition – get now while stocks last! The idea is for it to sell out as soon as it hits the shelf – you snooze, you lose if you didn’t act quickly enough.

Overstocks Stock sitting around and holding up your cash flow is an absolute NO! It’s time to reduce your line to your core basics and clear these cash stealers. You need to make the decision if profit in this area is more important than stock not moving with a possibility of the product expiring etc. Run a clearance sale to get rid of these items to make space for your core stocks and limited editions. Try different discounts to test the water first, but if push comes to shove, clear these items at cost to get rid of it as soon as possible – these items are not benefiting your business at all and this way it will free up more cash to buy what is needed and beneficial to your clients and business at the end of the day. It is important that you learn from your good decisions as well as your bad decisions to ensure the future of your business is based on all these factors.

Lea Castro is the founder and owner of Looking Good LCN.

online @ probeauty.co.za


Image by Niek Verlaan from Pixabay

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is harming our industry Sonette van Rensburg discusses why the correct information is so important to the nail industry ur industry has grown exceedingly quickly and continues to do so, despite a pandemic that that has adversely impacted it. However, along with that industry growth are many problems and issues that have arisen. Although there has been incredible advancement in technology, product innovation and information in our industry, there is still, rather sadly, so much misinformation that is being taught to our nail professionals. I have come across this problem predominantly on social media platforms. When posting a question or comments on an open group page, you had best be ready for what is coming your way. Disappointingly, this is often not always the best place to either

provide or receive the correct advice and information. Inopportunely, too many people post and teach their opinions rather than the actual facts and even challenge those who do know what they are talking about. Consequently, this is very confusing for many nail professionals, especially those who are new to the industry. If you aren’t sure, or suspect that you aren’t being provided with the correct information, then rather look elsewhere. It’s a bit of a double-edged sword because, at times, social media can also be a great platform to learn. So, also be open to recognising and receiving good and proper advice when it is given, especially from those with a dependable reputation and who you know can provide reliable, sound information from trustworthy sources. Speak up when you see

misinformation being spread and set the record straight. It is everyone’s duty and responsibility to protect this industry and keep it professional, for the sake of everyone involved. Through sharing and spreading the correct and proper information, we can ensure that the best and safest practices are being adhered to. Provide links and reliable resources for people to refer to, to back up the correct information. Let’s look at some of the more concerning things harming the professional nail industry.

Nail diseases and conditions Knowing the difference between nail infections, diseases and conditions is vitally important in making sure you know what to do when you come across them. Don’t guess, don’t diagnose and


don’t prescribe as we are not doctors. For instance, a greenie, as it is commonly called due to its green discolouration on the nail plate, is a pseudomonas bacterial infection, not a mould or fungus. Don’t treat it with bleach, vinegar or any other household chemical. It is contagious, so don’t try and treat it yourself, rather refer your client to a doctor. The same goes for a fungal infection.

Allergies & skin conditions Allergies and skin reactions to nail products don’t just happen. Although some people may be predisposed or sensitive to certain

and safely, and in the way they are meant to be used.

Product chemistry Know what makes the products you are working with tick. Understanding the chemistry behind the products you use will help you to work with them safely and achieve the best results, while simultaneously knowing how to avoid overexposure, skin allergies and reactions. Observe and follow manufacturers’ instructions. Use products that have an ingredient listing and that can provide MSD sheets. Mixing nail systems

Be open to recognising and receiving good and proper advice when it is given, especially from those with a dependable reputation and who you know can provide reliable sound information from trustworthy sources. chemicals and ingredients, allergies in the nail environment are mostly caused by improper use of your products; mixing systems and brands; and overexposure to chemicals. Whether they touch your skin or you breathe them in, STOP overexposing yourself and your clients to unnecessary vapours, dust and products, no matter what brand you are using. Continuous mixing and overexposure to your products will lead to allergies and skin reactions. Also, remember that previous allergies to anything will de-sensitise the skin and make it more prone to reacting to almost anything that touches it after that. This often results in the brand then getting blamed. Also, don’t overuse products like primers, dehydrators and bonders; always REMEMBER that with these products, less is more. Use your products correctly

Mixing brands and systems leads to all sorts of problems and often the brand gets blamed. A question that I find popping up on a regular basis – with the advice that comes with it being so questionable – is, ‘What is the best primer to use with my liquid & powder system?’ The answer many provide is, ‘Use primer from brand A or B or C, it’s the best.’ Actually, the correct answer is – use the primer from the brand that you are currently using. Another popular question is, ‘My client’s nails aren’t lasting, the nails just pop off and this is what I use – base coat from brand A, colour coat from brand B and top coat from brand C.’ The correct answer is – use all the same components in a system, all from the same brand. Products have been formulated to be chemically compatible and work in synergy with one another. Don’t mix nail systems – this is the only way you can prevent service breakdown, avoid allergies and ensure you achieve service longevity.

direct contact and overexposure to product, which can lead to allergies? Placing your sculpting brush in your mouth to shape it is another big WHY? It is unhygienic and there are other ways of achieving the result you want. When using your products, apply them correctly so they do not touch you and your client’s skin, whether you are doing nail enhancements, applying polish, gel polish or nail art. Work neatly and carefully and think about what you are doing. Don’t pile on the product, or mess all over the client’s skin and think that by removing it afterwards that it will all be okay. It won’t be!

Practices that are taboo The practice of removing the cuticle and living skin tissue is a topic that has been rehashed over and over as to why it is such an unsafe practice. And yet, some people still don’t get it and this remains a big concern. Understanding nail anatomy can help and is crucial for providing safe nail services. A technique that is growing in popularity is ‘The Russian Manicure’, which is cleaning and removing the cuticle with an electric file. Although some will tell you there is nothing wrong with it as long as

Tips & tricks of the trade There is nothing wrong with learning some tips and tricks to assist you to achieve more effective results, as long as they make sense and will not harm you or your client. I have learnt some amazing tips from nail professionals over the years, but have seen some that make me shudder. One, in particular, is dipping your fingers into polymer (acrylic powder) and then squeezing the sculpted enhancement to achieve a C curve. Why would you do this, as it is

Photo by cottonbro from Pexels

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it’s done correctly, there are many reasons why it is NOT one of the best practices. Please don’t get me wrong, an electric file in the right hands with proper training and correct use has its place. You can read further about this in Doug Schoon’s article on the Nail Knowledge site, where he explains in detail, why removing living skin tissue is an absolute no-no for many

There is nothing wrong with learning some tips and tricks to assist you to achieve more effective results, as long as they make sense and will not harm you or your client. reasons. https://nailknowledge.org/ nail-professional-knowledge-base/ what-is-a-russian-manicure

The rough stuff Roughening up, or filing, the nail plate is a practice many still believe to be the only way to get your products to adhere to the nail plate. But this process breaks down the nail plate layers, weakens the nail and causes damage and service breakdown. We are in the 21th century with product technology having advanced to such a level that this is absolutely not necessary. Products are now formulated to adhere to the nail, with very little having to be done to them, except a proper and correct preparation of the nail plate and cuticle area. It’s been proven that products adhere better to a healthy surface than a damaged one. Our responsibility is to nurture and preserve the integrity of our client’s nails and skin, not destroy them.

UV & LED Lamps Which is the correct lamp to use to cure your gel systems and products? Well, we will be covering this very topic in more detail in the May issue of the Professional Beauty & NailFile digital magazine, so keep a look out for more information about UV and LED technology. online @ probeauty.co.za

Education There are many proper nail technology courses that teach the correct information. So when signing up for a course, do your homework and make sure they are a reputable training provider and that the course encompasses everything you need to know about everything to do with the industry. Don’t think that just being able to create good looking nails or nail art is enough, because it’s not! There are also many industry experts and professionals who I know wholeheartedly that you can trust with the information they provide and teach. Some of these have been true mentors to me throughout my career in the industry. They are authors of phenomenal informative books and contribute to online sites and social media platforms. Knowledge really is key and the secret to your success, your reputation and most importantly, your future in this industry. Know who to trust and turn to and what platforms to research to find the correct information. It is out there, if you want it. Knowledge and education is an investment in you and well worth making. The concerns that have been written about in this article can all be backed up so do your research and refer to the links provided below for further and more detailed information, which is accurate, and fact based. Doug Schoon, the well-known international scientist and author, writes articles on these and many other important topics for numerous nail publications and on many platforms. He is very direct with what he has to say; however one thing I know for sure is that his

information is spot on. You can find him on Schoon Scientific, Doug Schoon’s Brain, and Face to Face with Doug Schoon, to name a few. Nail Knowledge (https:// nailknowledge.org/) is a great, fact-based learning site offering essential information, articles, online courses, blogs, and has an ‘ask the experts’ section. Their mission statement says it all: ‘Creating an education revolution in the nail industry’. This power team of experts educates and shares information about everything to do with the industry and consists of: Doug Schoon; Marian Newman (she has worked in every aspect of the nail industry, is regarded as one of the top nail practitioners in the world, and is an author, teacher and brand educator); and Vitaly Solomanoff (a qualified dermatologist and cosmetic chemist with over 30 years of experience in the cosmetic and nail industry). Tracey Anne Shelverton is another well-known industry expert who I highly recommend when it comes to expert knowledge; she specialises in teaching nail anatomy and oncological foot care. In Doug Schoon’s own words – ‘In my view, Tracy Anne Shelverton is one of the leading nail educators in the world today. She possesses an important trait that all educators should aspire to achieve. It’s NOT about being right, it’s about being correct.”

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the beauty industry for 30 years, and has worked with, and educated for, many top professional brands. She is the South African distributor for The Eyelash Emporium. sonette@eyelashemporium.co.za

Image by StockSnap from Pixabay

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HUB

In the Market

Product Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails

It’s all about you CND’s Colours of You collection is a celebration of individuality, available in both CND™ Shellac™ Gel Polish and CND™ Vinylux™ Long Wear Polish. Colours are: Self-Lover (nude with hints of peach); Mover & Shaker (cool, pinky nude); Chance Taker (pastel periwinkle); Rule Breaker (warm coral); Smile Maker (soft yellow); and Change Sparker (light grey).

011 791 4027

Shine on

Brush up on art The new Calgel liner brush is a nail art brush designed to give you the ability to draw the most delicate of lines with gel. It’s perfect for the artistic nail technician who likes to draw free hand art. It specifically works well with liner gel like the Calgel Premium silver art liner gel.

011 624 1101

LCN’s latest trend, Shine, celebrates the right for individual freedom – the freedom to feel completely at home in your body and honour special characteristics. These gentle colours, available in LCN’s soft gel and hard gel, cannot be categorised, thus emphasising this motto perfectly. The exclusive outer packaging is 100% recyclable.

010 593 3293

online @ probeauty.co.za


Step by Step Q& A

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Ice cream swirl

This delectable nail art design was created by Nadia Stroh

1

Apply a smooth base layer and cure for 60 seconds. Buff to perfection and dust. Apply a natural pink over the entire nail and cure

3

Use the application brush to fill in the frame and perfect the corner points using a fine art brush. Cure for 30 seconds.

2

Using the colour of your choice and a striping brush, map out the frame of your French smile line (do not cure).

4

Draw out curvy lines on the free-edge using a fine nail art brush. Cure for 60 seconds. Correct the upper arch by applying a strengthening layer. Cure for 30 seconds. Finish your overlay with Suede / Gloss Top Coat. Cure for 30 seconds and cleanse.

Nadia Stroh is the owner of The Nail Art Studio in Stellenbosch. She recently started her own YouTube channel about nails (‘The Nail Art Studio’). Stroh is a nail art educator at Bio Sculpture Western Cape.


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Business Trends Q&A

Top Tech Talk NailFile talks to Samantha Young about the challenges of owning a salon during a pandemic, and about her enduring passion for nail art. Where is your salon situated and do you work alone?

How do you go about actively marketing your services?

My husband and I own the Blush & Glo nails and beauty salon based in Lakefield, Benoni. The salon was opened in 2017. I have one qualified beauty therapist working as my assistant at the moment, who is helping me with nails, waxing, facials and pedicures. My long term goal is to expand the business, to upgrade my skills to the highest level possible, and to be in the position to share my knowledge and experiences with others.

The only marketing service I use at moment is social media. I believe that every set of nails I do should market itself, and through that I get a lot of word of mouth referrals.

From a business point of view, how have you managed to cope during the pandemic? Before COVID-19, I was always fully booked with back-to-back appointments. After the first lockdown, I was so worried about the business and thought clients would be hesitant to come in for their treatments, but things have turned out pretty well. I must say I’m very blessed to still be fully booked, although I had to scale down the number of clients I can accommodate in a day, to leave time for sanitisation protocols between clients.

After the first lockdown, I was so worried about the business and thought clients would be hesitant to come in for their treatments, but things have turned out pretty well. When did you first realise that nails were what you wanted to do? I had no idea or ever dreamt that one day I would develop a great passion for nails. My interests were actually make-up and fashion design. A late friend of mine did a nail course and I was

so intrigued by what she could do, that I started doing research about nails and training. I just loved idea of making people feel and look pretty. It was then that I decided to go for full nail technology training, covering all nail systems (including acrylics, gels, silk and fibre). As for nail art, I trained myself. I found it quite difficult at first to do nails but it became easier as the years went by.

When did you discover nail art? It was through my former employer who I worked for years ago in Norkem Park. She would always bring pictures of nail designs that she wanted me to do on her but without any ‘how to’ videos or step by step guides. online @ probeauty.co.za

online @ probeauty.co.za

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So she threw me in the deep end. It took me hours to do a set; I would just try do the art in my own way. What mattered to me was the finished result. The more she challenged me, the better I became at nail art.

Your Facebook page is full of stunning nail art – were you good at art at school? I never took any art classes in school, the only art I did was sketching clothing outfits in my spare time at home. And I thoroughly enjoyed it.

Is there a particular style of nail art that you most love doing? All of them! I enjoy every art work that I create. Doing different patterns on each client makes my work more exciting. No set ever comes out the same, it always has a different pattern to it.

Please describe the most challenging piece of nail art that you’ve ever done. Years ago, a 7-year old child asked me to recreate the hair plait of the character Elsa from ‘Frozen’ on one of her tiny nails,

and Elsa’s castle on another nail. That did not work well for me as her nails were too small. It was a huge challenge and struggle for me.

opportunity to do art that I’ve been wanting to try out.

What sort of nail art is most popular with your clients at the moment?

I think that in future nail art will be easier to create, while simultaneously being advanced in some way, like everything in this modern world. At times it feels like we always go backwards with nail art, but in an updated way, like fashion. For example, there was a time when we only had stickers as art, but that faded away and was followed by stamping and then water decals and transfer foil, which to me is the same as normal stickers but using a different technique.

Right now, most of my clients are enjoying transfer foil, threading gels and, as always, bling. Ombre is also perennially popular with my clients.

The only marketing service I use at moment is social media. I believe that every set of nails I do should market itself.

Do most of your clients request nail art? Oh yes! Ninety-percent of my clients always request nail art; some bring pictures and these can be very challenging to do. But I get excited trying out my own abilities and in the end, I get it right. Other clients ask me to surprise them with some good art and I absolutely love this because I do what I want and get a chance to express myself. It gives me the

Where do you think nail art is headed in the future?

Do you have a favourite nail shape? Almond is my favorite shape. I really love this shape as it just looks so feminine to me, especially if a client has fingers that are suitable for almondshaped nails. In that instance – jackpot!

online @ probeauty.co.za


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Professional Beauty SA April 2021