Pro Beauty Oct/Nov 2016

Oct/Nov 2016

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Spa watch Trends analysis

Clever combo

When pharmaceuticals meet cosmetics

Commanding presence Leaders vs managers

Directing traffic How to get feet through the door

Hall of Fame Professional Beauty Awards

38

41

In this issue...

51

Regulars

Salon Focus

Features

5 Industry news

24 A study in longevity

30 Defining definition

Local and international news

51 Crowning glory

What’s hot and happening in the hair industry

61 Product news

Marketing 27 The promised land

All the latest launches

64 SAAHSP The latest news from SAAHSP

Spotlight on Viso Bello

Taking your business to the next level

Medical Aesthetics 57 Goodbye to veins

Business

14 Ask the Experts

Nails

All your questions answered

17 Insider

Tracking the industry with stats

Sclerotherapy

34 A ‘glowing’ experience Brightening facial treatment review

36 Keeping abreast of matters

Professional Beauty Nail Competition

Neck and bust treatments

38 In your hands

Skincare devices

41 Professional Beauty awards winners

54 A nail-biting finish

Cosmeceuticals unpacked

Triumphant stories

47 Victory dance at the Industry Awards

Secrets to success

18 Keep your spa humming

Directing traffic to your spa

20 Are you ready to end 2016 with a bang?

Finishing the year on a high note

Spa Focus 22 The future of spa

Trends to watch out for

22

Welcome

S

o here we are, almost at the end of another year – and what a year it has been!

Tough would be an appropriate adjective to describe 2016. The ongoing recession and political instability have impacted negatively on the exchange rate, with the result that salons and spas who stock overseas brands have experienced severe price hikes in treatment and retail products.

This, in turn, affects their clients, who may choose not to return just because they can no longer afford it, or who want more cost-effective options. It would be useful if overseas professional brands could take our disastrous exchange into consideration and keep their prices static for this region.

A good deal of this last issue of Professional Beauty for 2016 is devoted to the worthy winners of our annual awards. We feel that it is important for the winners to share the secrets to their success so that others may learn from their acknowledged best practices.

In other articles we reveal how to end the year with a bang, provide a focus on neck & bust treatments, and present a scientific definition of cosmeceuticals. In addition, there is a fascinating, in-depth look at where the world of spa is headed in the future.

Finally, may I take this opportunity to wish you all a truly wonderful, healthy and happy festive season and a prosperous 2017.

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

Publisher Mark Moloney

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Managing Director Yolanda Knott

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Editor Joanna Sterkowicz

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Oct/Nov 2016

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Spa watch Trends analysis

Clever combo

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When pharmaceuticals meet cosmetics

Commanding presence Leaders vs managers

Directing traffic How to get feet through the door

Hall of Fame

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Professional Beauty Awards

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industry news

5

News All the news and views from the world of beauty and spa.

Dermalogica Global CEO visits SA

A

urelian Lis, Global CEO of premium skincare brand Dermalogica, visited Johannesburg in early September to meet with the Dermalogica South African team.

In an exclusive interview with Professional Beauty, Lis said that it was important for him to travel the world and visit Dermalogica’s distributors.

“It’s all about understanding what is working in each region. I want the South African therapist to feel that they have someone at our head office in California adapting to their specific needs.”

Lis pointed out that Dermalogica is found in 80 countries around the world. “Twelve of these are very

powerful markets for us and South Africa is one of them,” he continued.

“This is not surprising considering that Dermalogica founder Jane Wurwand has a link to this country through her husband, Raymond.”

Commenting on Unilever’s acquisition of Dermalogica last year, Lis emphasised that Dermalogica is run as a standalone business. “Prior to the acquisition, there were some areas in which Dermalogica was not really active – such as securing patents on its R&D. So Unilever, as a parent company, can assist with that by, for instance, providing facilitation for customer research facilities and digital monitoring tools.

“Jane Wurwand is still very much

Dermapen expert strikes home

Paris-based Andrew R Christie, Global Medical Trainer for Dermapenworld, recently visited South Africa to host training sessions at Genop Healthcare in Midrand, on the many benefits of micro-needling.

This includes treating areas beyond the face, such as elbows, knees and scalp.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

In addition, the therapists of Professional Skin Care Lab were privileged to receive exclusive advanced training at their premises in Parktown North.

“We are enthusiastic about Dermapen and the variety of treatments we can offer clients,” says the lab’s owner, Gina Gall.

Aurelian Lis and Natasha Proksch

hands-on at Dermalogica in terms of innovation and providing thought leadership. It’s a privilege to be able to work with the founder of a company – a living, dynamic, motivational entrepreneur who can keep teaching the organisation.”

Lis revealed that the South African market can look forward to four major product launches a year, as well as service innovation.

“You will see us double down on things that we’ve always done well, like visual merchandising and adapting our education to the 21st century. My hope is that in two or three years, people will look at Dermalogica and say: ‘They are doing what they always did, only much better’,” concluded Lis.

News in pictures

South African biochemical scientist, Dr Judey Pretorius, officially launched her cosmeceutical brand, Biomedical Emporium, in Johannesburg on 26 September.

Biomedical Emporium is targeted at the anti-ageing skincare and postoperative wound care markets.

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2016

industry news

6

Poise gets Mii

News in brief ■ CSpa expands into Africa: South African spa brand, CSpa, has secured stockists in Congo, Mozambique and Nigeria.

■ Babor extends reach: The team at Babor South Africa is excited to announce that the Babor range has launched at two spas in Cape Town – Life Day Spa Crystal Towers and Life Day Spa Waterfront.

The Poise Brands team

G

errard International has appointed Poise Brands as its Mii Cosmetics distributor for South Africa.

Says Poise Brands MD, Janine Janse van Rensburg: “Gerrard International is a family run business based in the UK that distributes a number of beauty brands. They identified a huge demand for make-up and created their own brand based on what their clients were asking for.

“Mii Cosmetics was developed by make-up artists and skincare specialists and so offers a versatile option in terms of make-up possibilities, while at the same time having skin-loving ingredients in its

products. For instance, it has a 100% minerals line. Mii minerals are microionised, which means they are milled three times, whereas many other products are milled only once. So our minerals are creamy and blend really well. In fact, the more you buff them, the more they blend.”

Janse van Rensburg points out that Mii can be used after facials and microdermabrasion.

“The idea of walking out of a salon with a bare face is now passé and Mii allows salons to apply some makeup to their clients so that they can look fabulous when they leave. Mii also offers great retail possibilities for salons and spas,” she explains.

Abram joins Black Pearl Faaizah Abram has been appointed business development manager at Black Pearl South Africa.

Says Black Pearl’s Dr Michelle Roberts: “We are delighted to welcome Faaizah Abram to our team. She is an experienced therapist and understands the importance of retail within the spa and salon environments.

Faaizah has an incredibly engaging demeanour, is very passionate about her job and hard-working.”

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2016

■ New MUD packaging: MUD international has released new packaging that will soon be available in South Africa. The new shape and outer box is distinctive and resembles the ikon on the MUD logo that changes colour for each category, namely Face, Eyes, Cheeks, Lips and Skin.

■ Sorbet & SEW raise R1m:

Beauty group Sorbet has raised over R1 million for its Sorbet Empowering Women (SEW) Academy. This social initiative aims to train and employ previously disadvantaged women as nail technicians. Some 60,000 SEW bracelets were sold in Sorbet stores nationwide during Spring.

■ New express beauty bar opens: A New York style express beauty bar has been launched

by Dean and Jessica Meldau in Cape Town’s CBD. The Cape Town Beauty Bar includes a blow-dry bar for a range of blowouts and hair styling, a lash and brow lounge, a nail bar, a tanning lounge and a make-up station.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

industry news

9

Isa Carstens Academy opens new campus

O

n 1 September, Isa Carstens Academy officially launched its new campus in Pretoria, situated at 408 Lynnwood Road.

The new campus replaces the one at 426 King’s Highway in Lynnwood, which opened in January 2011.

“We were renting the premises in King’s Highway and it became too small and not ideal for our requirements. In addition we wanted to have our own hostel,” says Sanette du Plessis, Isa Carstens Academy’s marketing administrator.

Helene Bramwell from The Mask Skin and Body Clinic was a special guest at the official opening of the new campus, having been a good friend of the late Isa Carstens.

Isabel Carstens-Roos, the daughter of Isa Carstens and MD of the Academy, says: “It was a privilege and honour to have Helene at our opening, since she played and is still playing such an important role in the growth and development of the health and

skincare industry”.

The new campus is 2 095m2 in size, excluding the Isa Hostel. Future plans for the campus make provision for another academic building, as well as another two hostel buildings on the premises.

Says Carstens-Roos: “Our new campus boasts not only lecture rooms and fully equipped clinic rooms with all the latest modern audio-visual equipment to enhance the learning experience of the students, but also a Wellness Sanctuary, where students do their work-integrated learning.”

The campus includes: eight practical classrooms with 12 treatment beds; two lecture rooms which can accommodate a hundred students; a media centre; a boardroom, and a cafeteria.

As such, the campus can accommodate 96 students per year for the Diploma in Somatology and 20 students for the Advanced Diploma in Dermal Aesthetics.

Isabel Carstens-Roos, Isabel de Wet, Helene Bramwell, Isa Smal and Mariet Smal

online at www.probeauty.co.za

News in pictures

Diana van Sittert, national education manager for Dermalogica South Africa, and Professional Beauty’s commercial director, Phil Woods, were the speakers at the recent Professional Beauty Network Breakfast held at Gallagher Convention Centre in Midrand.

Van Sittert gave a presentation on customer service, while Woods spoke on the Allied Health Professional Council of South Africa’s moves to make massage, reflexology and aromatherapy part of its register.

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2016

industry news

10

Professional Beauty JHB events a hit

I

n addition to attracting over 17 000 visitors to its exhibition, which showcased the latest products, trends and equipment in the industry, the recent Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo encompassed the International Spa Convention and the Advanced Therapist & Medical Aesthetics Seminars.

Says Marisa Dimitriadis, director of the International Spa Convention: “Sales guru Venetia Butler’s half-day sales workshop was by far the hit of the conference. Delegates are still talking about it.

“In addition, our keynote speaker, Dubai-based Andrew Gibson, VP of Spa & Wellness at FRHI Hotels & Resorts, added much value to those delegates who are experienced but in need of enlightenment about future trends in the industry.”

According to Karen Ellithorne, director of the Advanced Therapist & Medical Aesthetics Seminars, the sessions were well received. “Christina Bowman’s presentation on advanced skin diagnosis proved the most popular.

Delegates also enjoyed the session on the Chinese facial diagnosis presented

by Charlene Weidner, as they found this

Make-up artists honoured The Annual Professional Beauty Make-up Competition took place on 29 August at Gallagher Convention Centre in Midrand.

Here are the results: Photographic Glamour Make-up Student category (‘The Huntsman: Winter’s War’) Winner: Hester Burger; 2nd place: Alta Coetzee.

Photographic Glamour Make-up Professional category (‘The Huntsman: Winter’s War’) Winner: Maria de Vos; 2nd place: Alexandra Schafer.

Mixed Media Character Make-up Professional category (‘Alice Through The Looking Glass’): Winner: Leanné Roux; 2nd place – Amy van Rooyen.

Mixed Media Character Make-up Student category (‘Alice Through The Looking Glass’): Winner: Jemma Coetzee; 2nd place: Melissa van Niekerk.

to be a fascinating way of examining the client’s face.

“Another interesting topic for the delegates was that of advanced wound healing presented by Dr Judey Pretorius.

Her discussion on the different wound dressings and new treatment approach to treating the surrounding healthy skin was fascinating.”

Nouveau Contour moves

Leanné Roux

Maria de Vos

Nouveau Contour has moved into new offices situated at Westwood Office Park on Kudu Street in Roodepoort.

“The move represents a significant expansion for our company as the new premises, which are right across from Clearwater Mall, include a large training centre, as well as conference room,” says Kirsten-Claire Zacharowitz, who, together with Yvette Zacharowitz, has been involved in building the Nouveau Contour brand in South Africa over the past year, as official distributors.

Nouveau Contour is a premier global manufacturer of professional micropigmentation devices and products.

Hester Burger

Jemma Coetzee

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2016

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Creating Creatingunique uniquemassage massageexperiences experiences

Rich Richininantioxidants antioxidantsand andfatty fattyacids acids

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12

We have a new home!

Nouveau Contour South Africa is expanding with our beautiful new offices, situated right across from Clearwater Mall.

Y

vette and Kirsten-Claire Zacharowitz have been building the brand in the country as official distributors for the past year and are extremely proud of how it has grown.

Yvette and Kirsten-Claire Zacharowitz “The industry is constantly improving and developing and to be a part of that makes me very proud. I believe that Nouveau Contour has so much potential in our country as we have incredible artists and they need the best!” – Kirsten-Claire

What’s new?

Have you heard about Nano Brows?

The latest craze in the industry has been Microblading, which involves a technique in which natural hair like

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2016

strokes are created to give the illusion of a 3D eyebrow. This technique has swept the nation and broken through the old block eyebrows that were being done previously which restored the faith in a lot of people who were against the traditional permanent make-up.

The only downfall we have had with microblading is that it is semipermanent which is perfect for some but not for all.

Now introducing Nano Brows – this technique combines the skill and artistry of the natural hair stroke effect combined with the most advanced technology in the micropigmentation industry.

Creating More Permanent results.

Our prestige members are always working hard to stay up to date with the latest trends and newest techniques from all over the world.

One of our prestige members, Nadine Minns, has had incredible success in mastering this technique.

Microblading

Nano Brows

Nouveau Contour’s new offices are situated at 602 Kudu Street, Allen’s Neck, Westwood Office Park (C8), Roodepoort, Johannesburg Tel: 084 627 6695 or 079 623 0538/9 Nouveau Contour South Africa

online at www.probeauty.co.za

business tips

14

Ask the experts Our beauty industry experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.

What exactly is the difference between a spa leader and a spa manager?

T

he biggest difference is in the way they motivate and engage people to work or follow them.

Managers have subordinates who work for them and do as they are told, as they have been promised a reward (their salary) in return. This type of behaviour is exclusively transactional. Managers get paid to get work done, and they delegate much of their workload to their subordinates. Managers are generally against change and taking risks – they avoid conflict and run a ‘happy house’.

In contrast, leaders do not have subordinates, they have followers, and following is always a voluntary action. Leaders have to appeal to their followers. Very charismatic leaders create a following so strong that their followers are willing to walk the most ‘dangerous’ path with him/her. Most of the time this is not for monetary or financial benefits, but just for the mere reward of becoming better people.

Leaders are usually very good with people, which doesn’t mean that they are close personal friends with their ‘followers’. Leaders always maintain a degree of separation, and are very taskorientated and achievement-focused, yet able to engage with their teams to ensure they work towards the leader’s vision. Leaders are comfortable with risk and will break rules. They have a strong sense of purpose, a clear vision and a plan that they are able to communicate clearly to others.

Clear distinctions • A leader focuses on leading people; a manager focuses on managing workload.

• A leader seeks a vision; a manager seeks objectives.

• A leader has a proactive dynamic; a manager has a reactive dynamic.

• A leader’s style is transformational; a manager’s style is transactional.

• A leader wants achievements; a manager wants results.

• A leader gives credit; a manager takes credit.

• A leader takes the blame; a manager blames.

• A leader appeals to the HEART; a manager appeals to the HEAD.

How to be a leader Everything starts with you, so lead by example and without the need to have a title like manager, supervisor, director or general manager clouding your vision and judgment.

Set your vision and design a plan on how to get there. Vividly communicate this vision with your team in an appealing manner that will push them to follow you.

A leader needs very strong interpersonal skills; the first step is to understand others. Get to know what motivates them, what they fear, what they need and why. Motivate others by speaking in terms of their wants and needs. Make them want to do what you ask. Don’t order someone to do something – that is coercion, not motivation.

Finally, empower your team by encouraging them to be the best version of themselves, to develop to their full potential and believe in themselves.

Francisco Garcia won numerous accolades when he managed Mount Grace Country House and Spa and Arabella Hotel and Spa. Formerly the chief operating officer of the Amani Spas Group, Garcia is now an independent spa operations consultant. E-mail francaceres25@hotmail.com

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to joanna@probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2016

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business business trends tips

17

Insider

Insider, our exclusive business round-up, polled salons and spas in South Africa to track business in September 2016.

Insider Spa

As might be expected, with September signalling the beginning of Spring in South Africa, the majority of spas reported an increase in both treatment and retail business, a situation that is likely to improve over the holiday months, especially for hotel and resort spas. One spa reported that its Spring Treat and Midweek Couples’ Escape packages performed well, while hotel spas noted that an increase in hotel guests resulted in an increase in spa guests. Another spa attributed its rise in business compared to the same time last year to more effective and consistent marketing.

Yet another spa experienced an influx in corporate groups for their year-end functions. One of the few spas that reported a decrease in business noted that it was in the process of renovations and therefore operating out of a smaller space AVERAGE than last year.

TREATMENT We asked if any of you offer ROOM medical aesthetic treatments OCCUPANCY (i.e. lasers, IPL, micro-needling, etc.) and not surprisingly, all spas said no.

Only 17% of you have undergone renovations in the last year.

68%

The month in numbers

67

% BETTER

17

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN SEPTEMBER 2016 COMPARE WITH SEPTEMBER 2015?

Insider Salon

Treatment business at salons during 2016 has been unquestionably been affected by the economy.

September did not see many salons noting an improvement in this regard as compared to the same time last year, but expect that business will improve significantly over the holiday months.

As has been the trend throughout the year, salons have fared far worse in terms of retail sales then spas, with only 34% reporting an increase in retail sales in September 2016 compared to September 2015. However, it’s important to remember many of the spas we polled are resort / destination spas, where guests, often from overseas, tend to be more open to spending on retail than salon clients.

The majority of salons polled offer AVERAGE medical aesthetics treatments TREATMENT – either one or more of the ROOM following: IPL, lasers, microOCCUPANCY needling, cavitation, Lamprobe and electrolysis. One salon reported that it no longer offers botox or fillers as it didn’t want to be held responsible for any mishaps by a resident doctor.

None of the salons polled have done any renovations in the last year. PB

60%

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN SEPTEMBER 2016 COMPARE WITH SEPTEMBER 2015?

16

60

% BETTER

15

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN SEPTEMBER 2016 COMPARE WITH SEPTEMBER 2015?

online at www.probeauty.co.za

7

% SAME

% SAME

% WORSE

34

% BETTER

% SAME

25

% WORSE

59

36

% BETTER

% WORSE

33

% SAME

31

% WORSE

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN SEPTEMBER 2016 COMPARE WITH SEPTEMBER 2015?

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2016

business tips

18

Keep your spa humming The beauty industry is highly competitive, so directing traffic to your business can be hard. Debbie Merdjan reveals how to do so with a small budget.

L

earn how to be media-savvy and social media-smart.

There is a hugely relevant keyword – PEERS. Over 80% of social media posts influence a reader’s purchase decisions.

Readers look at Facebook posts and comments before making a decision.

And, readers check out Twitter and go: ‘Hmm, maybe I should try this’.

So, market yourself on social media.

Create a Facebook business page, a Twitter account and an Instagram account. Start a blog. Hire good people to run them all and to connect them to one another. Be consistent. Make yourself known on social media. It is FREE. Ask your clients to go to your Facebook page and review you. Ask them to share information. Reward them for the share. Offer them a discount if they ‘tag’ you or say ‘I was here…’

Network Build up relationships with other spas. Work together and help each other with client overflow. Bounce ideas off one another. Get your competitors to like you.

Form a community of likeminded spas.

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2016

Don’t be shy Call old customers. Ask your friends to support you. Do post box leaflet drops or employ whatever strategy could work for you. Offer specials.

Have opening specials. Have downtime specials. Be visible.

Be visual If you’re offering a fabulous new treatment, take before and after photographs, brand them with your logo and send them to your clients.

If the pictures are good, your clients will show them to their friends or post them online. Reward your clients for the exposure with complimentary treatments.

People respond to pics brilliantly.

Ask your readers (or prospective readers) for their comments or their thoughts on the pic. Be interactive.

And whatever you do on Instagram, do something similar on Facebook and Twitter.

Google ads Write blogs and use key phrases.

Learn how to use Google Ads and use Google analytics to see what works for you. Google ads can be incredibly inexpensive and you just need to find the right key phrases.

For instance, ‘Massage Sandton’? Use the name of the place you are in.

Remember that Google works according to what people ask for. Your website copy must correspond to the search terms that people will use.

Customer requirements Answer your customers’ needs and offer them a benefit. You don’t need to give out tons of information about yourself. Of course you want to talk about who you are and your experience, but make it mostly about customers and what you can offer them.

E-mail Target the right people in your e-mails.

Be clear. Be concise. Use a great font and bullet points. Keep them snappy and to the point.

Get out there. Market. Sell. You can do it for very little money. PB

Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the Camelot Group. She has been in the industry since 1982, started Camelot International Health & Skin Care Education in 1987, and opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

HEIBIX STUDY GUIDES COMPILED BY EXPERTS WITH EXPERIENCE IN EDUCATION For the foundational subjects required to achieve the unit standards of the NQF Level 5 Diploma in Health and Skincare and Therapeutic Complementary Therapies.

Worksheets and self-evaluation question papers are included.

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DERMATOLOGY

Unlocking the gate to successful & accurate skin analysis

APPLIED PHYSICS

The physics behind the machines

HYGIENE & STERILIZATION

BASIC CHEMISTRY Made easy

BODYSHAPE AND EXERCISE Body analysis and correction

COSMETIC SCIENCE

The foundation to a successful career in Somatology

AROMATHERAPY PRACTICE For wellness and spas

NUTRITION Understanding healthy lifestyles

THE CHEMISTRY OF ESSENTIAL OILS Blending skills

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business tips

20

Are you ready to end

with a bang?

With the summer months comes the promise of a boom in business in terms of essential salon treatments. Lauren Gibson stresses the importance of planning for this busy time.

A

s skin centre owners and therapists we are all anticipating the ‘busy season’. The reality is that you need to be prepared for what may (or may not) happen from now until the end of 2016.

You need to ensure your staff and therapists have positive, focused mindsets and that they understand what the team goal (or target) is moving into these next few months.

In addition, you want to ensure your team is working with purpose and not reactively to squeeze clients in, or pushing sales just to ensure that revenue targets are met.

Be strategic about how you prepare your staff for the busy season to ensure that there is no burnout, as this will ensure the cohesiveness of the team is felt through the whole business.

We are in the industry of touch and

transferring energy, so if you have stressed, burnt-out staff members you need to think about how they are going to affect your clients.

Essential elements For yourself and your business the following things should be in play: Promotions and activations: these will be seen as added value for your clients and they should be planned, communicated and shared with your database and your staff to ensure success.

Stock on shelves: this is probably one of the most critical elements. Make sure that you cater for seasonal retail peaks by always having sufficient units so that you never have to turn a client away, or send them to another store to purchase what they are looking for. You also need to consider your supplier delivery times, as this could impact how you satisfy the

consumer demand or urgency.

Cash flow: as the season gets busier, you will be required to order products more frequently, or place larger than normal orders with your suppliers.

This means you need to monitor your movements of cash a lot more closely to ensure you can keep up with client demand. This is extremely important if you are running a new business and unsure of your seasonal peaks or trends as of yet.

Correct number of staff: often it is a good idea to employ a temp or additional therapist to assist you in your busier months. This ensures you can service all clients efficiently and effectively to ensure you maintain the name of your business and the brand you have built.

Don’t wait until the last minute – failing to plan is planning to fail. PB

Lauren Gibson has worked for Dermalogica for nearly four years. She has been an educator, sales brand consultant, and, more recently, the regional manager for Cape Town. Her passion lies in up-skilling people, seeing the potential in businesses and unlocking that potential and constantly learning to reignite her love for the industry. E-mail laureng@dermalogica.co.za

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2016

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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spa focus

22

The future of spa

As keynote speaker at the recent International Spa Convention in Midrand, Andrew Gibson of FRHI Hotels & Resorts provided delegates with valuable insight about where the global spa industry is headed, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

‘S

urf’s up’ – a new wave of wellness that sees some Californian spas offering surfing on their treatment menus; ‘parenting well’ (saunas and spas for kids); ‘wellness festivals’ (a shift from wasted to wellness); and ‘uber spas’ (big spas that offer massage treatments on demand) are just some of the future trends identified by www. spafinder.com.

So said Andrew Gibson, VP of Spa & Wellness at FRHI Hotels & Resorts, Dubai, in his presentation at the International Spa Convention.

He continued: “Other trends identified by Spafinder include the increasing popularity of the Temazcal, a Mexican steam room, and the ‘Adrenaline Zen Cocktail’, which is all about resetting the mind and body.

Wellness in the workplace is another pervading trend.”

Gibson emphasised that the main drivers of change in the hotel spa industry are: financial awareness; the fitness renaissance; demand from guests; and society’s attitude towards health.

“In terms of financial awareness, the focus of hotel bosses always seems to be on ROI (return on investment). For instance, they ask questions like: ‘If I build a sauna in my spa, what is the ROI?’ That is what I get asked all the

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2016

time. So I reply by asking: ‘What is the ROI on your hotel lobby?’ Bosses have to learn to see the bigger picture in terms of spa facilities.

“Spas need to tap into the current fitness renaissance, by incorporating fitness into their wellness programmes.

Some spas offer health club activities.

Fairmont has experimented with an American company called Fitness on Demand, which provides a fitness programme on video for our guests.

“It is very useful for spas to create a guest profile. For instance, the Fairmont guest is adventurous, a motivator, sophisticated and athletic.

They expect results from treatments.

“Regarding society’s attitude towards health – this is reflected by the fact that governments are now accepting that less cost is associated with keeping the nation healthy.”

Wise to gimmicks According to Gibson, it is important for spa owners and operators to distinguish the trends from the gimmicks.

“Wellness is one of the major trends that I’ve identified – it is the new word for spa and fitness in hotels.

At the moment there is lots of slick marketing around wellness in hotel and spa groups. We’re all trying to promote healthy hotels with healthy food, etc. But as a spa operator you have to figure out what your definition

Andrew Gibson

of wellness is. It could be meditation, for example. Wellness will work if you embrace it from concept through to design and operation. Furthermore, wellness impacts the design for spa and fitness in hotels; one example would be the installation of a pure oxygen air system.”

Techno-wise He emphasised the importance of technology in the spa. “Fairmont is thinking of doing away with reception areas in the spa and having an area with iPads instead for online booking and check-in. Technology can also be used for performance mapping and sharing.”

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spa focus

23 ‘Beauty supreme’ Gibson pointed out that 20 years ago spas didn’t offer beauty treatments.

“Now you get hydrafacials, oxygen facials, cryotherapy, skin mapping and body sculpting. I believe that beauty treatments will become really popular at spas.

“However, I think that any treatments that penetrate the skin, like dermabrasion, mesotherapy, injectables, etc. should be avoided, because spas/hotels and medical don’t go together.”

Multi-use Gibson noted that spa guest rooms have become multi-use. “This year Fairmont will launch six rooms in Zurich with fitness equipment and pure oxygen air. There is a definite move towards ‘wellness rooms’.”

Retail Not surprisingly, Gibson stressed that retail is an important part of the spa business. “Make sure your retail display

is attractive and situated where guests can check it out.

“Research shows that the hotel guest who goes to the spa will spend double on food, stay a day longer at the hotel and buy retail goods at the spa.”

Going forward In conclusion, Gibson urged the International Spa Convention delegates to be part of the global wellness movement.

“If you are doing renovations or

building a new spa, you should consider creating a wellness environment.

Remember that fitness facilities do not need expensive equipment. Embrace beauty treatments and be aware of the fact that people want instant results.

Make your spa a place that people really want to come to.

“Go beyond the walls of fitness and spa – wellness impacts the guest in every part of your hotel business.

Wellness is no longer a space in the hotel – it is the hotel,” stated Gibson. PB

salon focus

24

A study in longevity Viso Bello Skin Care Centre has been in existence in Sandton for 22 years.

Joanna Sterkowicz speaks to the salon’s owners, husband and wife team Elaine and Stephen Meyer, about their recipe for long-lasting success.

L

Stephen and Elaine Meyer

rooms, a dedicated nail bar, a sunless tanning cubicle as well as a relaxation area, represents the pinnacle of our progress,” says British-born therapist Elaine Meyer, who together with her South African husband, Stephen, is hands-on manager of the salon.

Certainly the first impression that one gets when walking into Viso Bello (which means ‘Beautiful Face’ in Italian) is that of spacious luxury. The extensive reception area is dominated by a circular desk, reflecting the couple’s belief in Feng Shui.

“We’ve always tried to follow Feng Shui principles – a circle has a softer flow of energy than a square, which blocks energy. Thus, a circular desk allows for a free flow of energy in the reception area,” explains Stephen.

Each of the treatment rooms are capacious, as is the corridor, a sharp contrast to the cramped areas found in many salons. In fact, there is a definite spa-like feel to Viso Bello.

“We changed the look and feel of the salon to a Thai style, with dark tiles, red concrete floors and dark woods,” comments Elaine.

“Stephen and I always do our own designs – we aim for a clean look, but not a clinical one.”

She reveals that the salon has had a few touch-ups in terms

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2016

ocated within the Grayston Centre in Sandton for more than two decades, Viso Bello Skin Care Centre has had its fair share of moving around within the centre, before settling in its current, glass-walled location on the first floor.

“When we started out we had a very small store downstairs of only 70m2 and today we occupy over 200m2. Our original salon had six little cubicles with curtains. The current salon, with its seven treatment

Reception area

of refurbishments and décor in the last few months, plus the website has been re-done.

Point of difference Elaine herself has been a therapist for 38 years. “I actually opened a salon in 1980 in Pretoria, when I first came to South Africa from Britain. It was quite a culture shock as at that time the local beauty industry was not as developed

The nail bar

online at www.probeauty.co.za

salon focus

25

Treatment room

as it was back home. Stephen joined me in the business 22 years ago, when we opened in Grayston Centre.”

She notes that it’s been interesting to see the changes that have happened in Sandton and in the industry over the last 22 years.

“We’ve always regarded ourselves as being slightly different to other salons,” she continues. “There are no shortcuts in our operation and we don’t try and sell quick fixes. We don’t believe in a hard sell, rather we try and demonstrate the benefits of our services and give clients a treatment that fits their pocket. As such, Viso Bello ‘recommends’ products rather than sells them.

“Before taking on any new brands, we try out the products for at least three to six months. We’ve recently taken on pHformula, as well as the Dermapen, for antiageing treatments. Our other brands include Anesi, Nimue, Kalahari, Filorga and CND. “In terms of therapists, I will only employ those with international qualifications like City & Guilds and ITEC.” Stephen stresses that he and Elaine believe in the personal touch. “Our business model is different to a lot of salons in that it’s not about getting feet through the door – it’s about people coming to the salon and staying with us. Over the years we’ve treated entire families, that’s our core business. It’s been quite a journey for us.” PB

Relaxation area

Every business tells a story. ESP brings you the tools and the team to write your own.

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Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2016

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CAPE TOWN 26 & 27 MARCH 2017 THE LOOK OUT AT THE WATERFRONT

Education Innovation Inspiration CAPE TOWN LOOK OUT!

THE EXHIBITION

This year Professional Beauty is changing, bringing you not only the leading brands from South Africa but also a new and exciting range of seminars and workshops, providing education, innovation and inspiration.

Not only are we bringing you this fantastic educational opportunity, the exhibition will feature many of the top brands and suppliers with new products, special offers and innovation for you to see, all under one roof.

SKINCARE & TECHNOLOGY

ADVANCED TREATMENTS & MEDICAL AESTHETICS

From the latest skin technology to lasers and the rest, get up to date information and guidance on the latest innovation.

Mesotherapy, Cryotherapy, Microblading and much more will be explained in full to give you all the information you need about these procedures and treatments

BUSINESS SKILLS & KNOWLEDGE

NAIL TECHNOLOGY & TECHNIQUES

Giving you essential tools to make a success of your business.

Ranging from social media planning to pricing for profit.

If you work with nails you should attend these seminars. Charging to make a profit, the latest techniques, styles and ideas.

New Venue

New Concept

Visit www.probeauty.co.za to get the full details on this must attend event and book your place for these superb seminars.

marketing

27

The promised land

In this third of a series of articles about marketing, Rina McKellar looks at the difference between strategy, tactics and ‘magic bullets’.

T

he mighty Holy Grail – for centuries people have searched, yearned and even killed for it. Legend claims it to be the chalice used at the Last Supper, but we all know that it is far more than just a mere golden goblet. Its contents are believed to be magical, mythical and even supernatural; the very elixir of life is said to be contained within.

Today’s Holy Grail seems to have morphed into many shapes and forms. Each person has their own interpretation and their own secret desires. Everybody is searching for something.

And business is no different. Every CEO, director and owner is wishing for that winning formula or ‘magic bullet’ that will take their business to the promised land of success. We can all relate. We’ve all been sold or told of something that was going to deliver unbeatable, unbelievable results and yet, more often than not, there was nothing more than disappointment

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and disillusionment. We have all been suckers for someone else’s promises at one point. Often we’ve just been suckers for our own high hopes and unrealistic expectations.

Don’t get me wrong – I strongly believe in the mythical and the magical. I also just believe in a little bit of planning, preparation and structure. After all, that magical, mythical grail was still just a beautiful cup of gold that someone had to design, mould and form. It was just a chalice, but put that chalice on the right table with the right people with the right wine and voilà!

Daunting concept Strategy is really no different. For many this is a daunting word: “Oh, it is too complicated!” they cry. And, defining a marketing strategy is a rarity for many a small business.

But strategy is no more than planning and designing what your ‘vessel’ is to become and allowing the opportunity for the magic to occur.

It is all about you designing your cup. What would you like your cup to look like? Will it be a chalice, a shot glass or a chunky mug? There is no right or wrong. It’s about defining who you are and what you’d like to do

R Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2016

marketing

28 desperate, but nothing comes close to that magical moment of sipping icecold Veuve Clicquot from a tall, crystal stemmed flute. It’s just not the same in a polystyrene cup. Find your vessel, fill it with the right liquid and the magic will unfold.

True tactics

and be in the world.

If strategy is the vessel design, then think of tactics as the many things that can be held in that cup. For marketing this translates into things like an ad in a magazine, or a newsletter, or a brochure, or a website, or the million other promotional-type options out there. And here is often where it gets confusing. What liquid belongs in my cup and when and why?

A campaign strategy is no more than marrying the right vessel to the right liquid at the right time. We like tea in cups and brandy in snifters.

Yes, we can mix and match when

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2016

There are endless definitions of marketing and a quick google search will spit out impressive sounding phrases like, ‘the science and art of exploring, creating and delivering value….’ blah-blah. And yet, my favourite and most basic version is simply this: marketing is getting more people to buy/use more stuff.

In essence there really are only two streams to increase your business – get more feet through your door, and get the same feet to come in more often. All campaign strategies will boil down to one of the above, or a combination thereof.

It is important, however, to separate them because each will require a different set of tactics. They are different looking cups (or vessels).

Sometimes you can kill two birds with one stone, but you must have a clear map in your head of how it all relates.

So, decide which you’d like to focus

on. There are an endless amount of expensive, very enticing tactics out there and an army of agents ready to sell you the magic of their service.

But until your tactic has a cup or a vessel to fall into, you’ll just be pouring it on the ground and breeding more room for disappointment. Before you embark on any marketing tactic it is critical that you get the right container in place.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

marketing

29 SMART approach Try thinking about what you’d like to achieve and how your tactic will help you to achieve that. Get specific by setting a business target. Choose one of the categories above as a starter. Perhaps you want to embark on a drive to attract new business. So, set a specific goal like, wanting to attract 25 new clients per month over the next three months. Or, perhaps you’d like to set a revenue target or a retail target. Make sure that it is done with the SMART approach: S – specific. M – measurable.

A – attainable. R – realistic. T – time-based.

After you’ve decided on your goal, think about what tactics you need to do to make this work. So, let’s flesh out the objective of attracting new clients. You could draw on anything ranging from a referral campaign, to a discounted introductory offer, to flyer drops in your neighbourhood, to an emailer, to countless other ideas.

Useful resources The idea, however, is to evaluate each strategy from a cost and relevancy point of view and see what potential it could deliver. You may have valuable resources at your disposal that costs little to extract extra value from, for example, a strong, loyal client base that you could tap into by offering a referral incentive, or you could have access to a designer who could help you with banners for your store entrance, or develop a simple classy flyer to distribute in the mall.

You may even try something daring and creative like showcasing your work just outside your salon. However, done in isolation or as a one-off, there is a greater risk of it not working as it’s too much of a shot in the dark.

Occasionally you get lucky, but it’s more like logs on a fire – together as a targeted and timed approach – when the momentum builds and the magic begins.

It is important to keep records of what worked and what didn’t. Don’t be hasty. Practise a bit of patience.

Find out from new clients why they came to you. Don’t just look at it as a one-off, look at the timing of it all.

You’ll soon start to see where your silver bullets are hidden.

And don’t forget to enjoy the journey – magical carpet rides, enchanted cups and all. PB Rina McKellar has over 18 years of experience across varied industries ranging from pharmaceutical to financial. She has worked with large corporate brands like Standard Bank, Vital and Pfizer. Now, as a director of Blue IQ, McKellar seeks to bring about transformation and growth on all levels.

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2016

Award winning

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Tel: +27 11 033 0500 • Fax: +27 86 658 6497 info@poisebrands.co.za • www.poisebrands.co.za Poise Brands © 2016. All Rights Reserved

cosmeceuticals

30

Defining definition In this special feature we unpack the term ‘cosmeceutical’.

A

s Dr Judey Pretorius of brand new cosmeceutical range, Biomedical Emporium, points out, it is difficult to describe what a cosmeceutical is if the word cannot even be found in the dictionary.

“It may be concluded that the word ‘cosmeceutical’ is a combination of ‘cosmetic’ and ‘pharmaceutical’, which may inherently mean that a cosmeceutical product contains pharmaceutical grade materials that

comply to Compendia Monograph standards to ultimately result in a therapeutic or biological benefit on the skin. A cosmeceutical product should thus comply to strict and measurable safety, quality and efficacy standards.

“I feel that there is a place in the dictionary for such a word as pharmaceutical benefits can be obtained from cosmetic products.

Ingredients found in certain cosmetic products already comply to international compendia monographs.

The Compendium of Monographs contains the specifications and control procedures of ingredients and assist to speed up the evaluation of the safety and efficacy of ‘medicinal’ ingredients.

A monograph is thus a written description of particular elements on an identified topic or ingredient, such as Vitamin C, which is often used in cosmetic products to address skin lightening and brightening.”

Dr Pretorius stresses that the facility, equipment and also staff members that produce cosmeceutical products should comply to listed guidelines

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2016

and standards in order to obtain the final objective to categorically and explicitly prove that the product is safe to use by the end consumer.

“A cosmeceutical product should thus be subject to the measurable quality control standards during the development, manufacturing and packaging processes. Guidelines and standards such as Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP) and Good Laboratory Practices (GLP), and validation and product stability procedures exist to which the manufacturer of such a product can align to in order to have documented and repeatable evidence that standards were obtained to the desired level of compliance before the products are released to market.”

Biomedical Emporium offers an innovative line of skincare products that was developed after extensive and continued research and development. The range works symbiotically and synergistically to stimulate the skin’s own rejuvenation and repair mechanisms for a healthier, more ageless complexion.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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Environ is

REBORN BEAUTIFUL Supermodels insist on it, skin care professionals recommend it, journalists write about it. Environ has revolutionised skin care with its pioneering use of vitamin A, its world-renowned Vitamin STEP-UP SYSTEM™, the efficacy of its formulations and its commitment to science, beauty and care.

The makeover looks beautiful With a new look and a bold new message, Environ is looking beautiful.

There’s a new vision: to create a world in which healthy skin is the norm, not the exception. And a purpose: to use ingenious skin care science to keep skin at its healthy, beautiful, resilient best … for life.

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cosmeceuticals

32 History Ursula Hunt of DermaFix provides some historical background to the term ‘cosmeceutical’.

“It is used to identify a cosmetic product with biologically active ingredients showing to have a therapeutic benefit for the skin. This term was introduced into the skincare industry by the late professor and scientist Dr Albert Kligman in 1984, who developed Retin-A™.(*see references at end of article) “Cosmeceuticals are used for both the nourishment and improvement of the skin by delivering essential nutrients needed for skin health. A number of topical cosmeceutical formulations exist for various skincare protocols, including breakouts, photo-ageing, hyperpigmentation, deep lines and wrinkles, which are more active than cosmetics.

“Many cosmetic products include the use of cosmeceutical ingredients, however if the concentration of the active is not correct or the chosen blend, you will not achieve the desired result from the product in question. Unlike cosmetics, which are mostly sold in an ‘over-thecounter’ capacity, cosmeceutical product ranges will normally be retailed under the guidance of a skincare professional due to the active nature of the products.”

Hunt points out that DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care is a professionally recommended product range that makes use of various cosmeceutical ingredients including stem cells, DNA Telomere Protection, liposome-encapsulated Peptides, advanced natural phytonutrients, Mandelic Acid, Alpha Hydroxy Acids, Beta Hydroxy Acids, Vitamin A Propionate and various botanicals.

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2016

Advanced active ingredients and extremely precise therapy systems assure highly efficient results.

Skin Boosters includes five personal face treatments and 11 retail products that are available regardless of the treatment.

From the Doctor The new Doctor Babor Refine Cellular Detox Lipo Cleanser combines the innovative LipoTherm formula with a powerful detoxifying effect to create a gentle facial cleanser with a supercleansing action. The result: lipidbased deep-pore cleansing coupled with an intensive thermal effect.

Bio-regenerative ‘infusion’ From Thalgo’s MCeutic cosmeceutical brand, Mésolift Marin is a noninvasive version of the anti-ageing mesotherapy technique. The bioregenerative ‘infusion’ of Mésolift Marin compensates for deficiencies in the body’s tissues to boost skin cells’ metabolism and maintain youthfullooking skin.

Negative skin aspects such as loss of radiance, uneven skin tone, rough microsurface, thick skin texture, dilated pores, localised imperfections and residual marks can contribute to altering the appearance of the skin.

Poor skin quality can be a disorder in its own right, caused by multiple factors that affect all skin types. This is why the Thalgo Research Centre developed a cutting-edge medicosmetic programme with Mésolift Marin.

Boosting product Juliette Armand’s Skin Boosters Range, positioned as an alternative to plastic surgery, also assists in maintaining results from mesotherapy treatments as well as any facial cosmetic surgeries.

When this balm cosmeceutical is applied to un-moistened skin, it melts on contact, producing a gentle, warming effect, which opens the pores. As it is massaged into the skin with moistened fingertips, the balm transforms into a milky microemulsion that removes even deepseated impurities.

Any active ingredients subsequently applied can then better absorbed by the skin and the detoxifying effect is an added bonus. The innovative synthesis of aloe vera and broccoli extracts has an anti-pollution effect, and shields the skin from environmental aggressors and free radicals. The complex also stimulates the skin to produce natural detox enzymes and protects the skin against moisture loss.

Physiological effect Cosmeceutical products have a more physiological effect than cosmetic products as they contain antioxidants, exfoliators, and other intercellular ingredients that are necessary to support the natural structure of the skin.

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cosmeceuticals

33

So says Natasha Delport of Sknlogic. “Because cosmeceutical products work in the same way as prescription medications, diagnosis and consultation are required to be able to obtain these products.

“As Sknlogic contains all of these ingredients mentioned above it is more than just a cosmetic. Our products facilitate an active process of reversing the signs of damage in the skin. Sknlogic contains enzymes, anti-oxidants and active ingredients that alter and restore the skin.”

Power-packed Dermalogica’s Power Rich is a maximumintensity skin regenerating treatment to help reverse signs of skin ageing. Its three-phase formula helps smooth away fine lines, increase elasticity and maintain moisture balance. Power Rich aids in firming and increasing skin resilience with bio-stimulating botanicals that help trigger collagen production. Fine lines are smoothed away with nonirritating exfoliation agents. Peptides and skin-nourishing vitamins help reverse signs of skin ageing.

Also from Dermalogica, Overnight Retinol Repair is a powerful treatment cream that accelerates skin renewal and reduces the appearance of skin ageing overnight.

Active microencapsulated pure Retinol helps increase collagen production and cell turnover.

Powerful peptides and antioxidant Vitamin C help fight signs of ageing, including uneven skin tone and discolouration. The product is formulated with a clinically-proven bioenergised Copper amino acid complex shown to reduce visible wrinkles and improve skin firmness. It includes a moisturising Buffer Cream to help skin acclimate to this highly-active form of Retinol. PB

*References: 1. Cosmeceuticals – An Emerging Concept: A Comprehensive Review (Kadam Vaishali S, Chintale Ashwini G, Deshmukh Kshitija P and Nalwad Digambar, Department of Pharmaceutics; Lecturer in Indira College of Pharmacy, Vishnupuri, Nanded, Maharashtra, India.)

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2016

treatment review - brightening facial

34

A ‘glowing’ experience Alexandra Norvall tries the Vitamin C-infused, radiance boosting, White Lumination Brightening Radiance Treatment from Phytomer.

K

een to revive my drablooking skin, I headed off to Urban Bliss Wellness Spa in Emmarentia, Johannesburg, for my treatment. On arrival, I learnt from somatologist, Andrea Le Roux, that every specialised product in the Phytomer White Lumination facial contains Vitamin C, including serum, massage medium, mask and moisturiser.

“You will see a brightening of your skin after a single treatment,” explained Le Roux, “as the primary anti-oxidant in this facial is Vitamin C, which boosts the skin’s radiance.

Most of our clients come for this treatment the day before a big event so that they can look radiant on the day. This facial is also ideal for those clients who specifically want to treat pigmentation and we recommend four to six treatments.”

Le Roux pointed out that this facial is unique because it includes two exfoliators. “A double exfoliation ensures effective removal of all dead cells for maximum penetration of the Vitamin C.” My treatment commenced with Phytomer’s relaxation ritual, involving a spritz of Sea Mist Spray and

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2016

104 trace elements to recharge the skin and a specialised brighten complex.

“When you remove this mask, a film of spots targets any pigmentation

Relaxation Serum. I was asked to inhale and exhale a few times, before Le Roux cleansed my face with the Perfect Visage Gentle Cleansing Milk.

Next came the first exfoliator – Purifying Gommage Exfoliant – a dry exfoliation that doesn’t require steam.

Once this was removed, Le Roux applied the Enzymatic Exfoliant with steam, which actually felt nourishing on my skin. When the excess had been removed, the Rosée Visage Toner was applied for its soothing properties.

Le Roux then performed a massage on my face to stimulate the skin, improve circulation and encourage radiance, using the Massage Perfecting Cream. “All Phytomer’s massage mediums stay on the skin and are not rinsed off as they are treatment based,” she noted.

The next stage was the White Lumination Brightening Serum, an ultra-fine serum that lights up the complexion and reduces the appearance of blemishes as well as pigmentation.

Following this, the plasticising Luminous Complexion Mask was applied for 15 minutes. This mask, which comes in powder form and is mixed with warm water, is formulated with Phytomer’s specilised flagship ingredient, Oligomer, which contains

you have,” commented Le Roux. Sure enough, once the mask was peeled off, it revealed, to my surprise, small spots where the mask targeted pigmentation on my forehead.

To complete the treatment, Le Roux applied Youth Contour Rejuvenation

Wrinkle Correction Cream around my eyes and the White Lumination Complexion Recovery Cream with SPF 15 on the rest of my face.

I would thoroughly recommend this 60-minute treatment because my skin, as promised, looked positively radiant post treatment. PB

Contact A&I Importers Telephone: 011 486 4904

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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neck & bust

36

Keeping abreast of matters Professional Beauty looks at some of the most effective neck and bust treatments on the market.

S

alon clients’ assets are protected with MIO’s Bust and Upper Body Treatment, which boosts pecs and triceps.

This treatment dramatically increases circulation to the whole bust and upper body area, and releases pressure points that affect posture.

It involves a gentle exfoliation combined with specific massage moves for the entire bust and décolletage area, which will plump up tired skin and boost collagen, while elasticising and smoothing for a radically prouder bust and toned arms.

Microcurrent The Elemis in salon Biotec Neck Treatment involves the use of microcurrent to remind the muscle to firm up, while the Arjuna-infused Jowl and Chin Mask lifts and tightens for super-sleek contouring.

Also from Elemis, the Pro-Collagen Lifting Treatment Neck and Bust Smoothing Cream firms, smoothes and nourishes the target area.

Clinically proven, this intensive cream reduces the appearance of skin crêpiness.

Uplifting For women in search of an intensive lifting-effect treatment to help rejuvenate and plump up their bust and smooth their décolleté, Thalgo’s Défi Fermeté Bust and Décolleté is a fine, slightly powdery emulsion that reinforces the support tissues of the bust and helps reshape the breasts.

It has an intensely hydrating action and smoothes the décolleté. With its skin plumped up and rejuvenated, the bust appears more beautiful.

A question of volume For a toned and more voluminous bust, Morpho-Bust Volume Cataplasm from Ericson Laboratoire combines three action mechanisms for locally densifying the adipose tissue – multiplying fatty cells, stimulating the

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2016

production of lipids and increasing storage of lipids.

The Volume Cataplasm cream is used during the professional MorphoBust treatment and combined with a massage, followed by a thick layer under the Structure Mask.

In addition to the main active ingredient, Volufiline, MorphoBust contains Rosehip Oil (rich in essential fatty acids to boost the synthesis of collagen and elastin); Jasmine Sap (full of essential oils with antiseptic, healing, soothing and antiinflammatory properties); Iris Pallida Sap (softening and moisturising properties that are astringent and protective); and Mallow Sap (rich in mucilage, has softening, emollient and calming properties, reinforces capillary resistance and activates the micro circulation).

Correcting product DermaFix SND Corrector is a collagen and elastin-boosting skin moisturiser working towards the restoration of firmness to the neck and décolleté by accelerating dermal healing. The inclusion of Vitamin A Propionate within the SND Corrector revitalises and balances the skin within 28 days of use.

Also from DermaFix, BodyBright with Niacinamide, Vitamin A Propionate and Vitamin C - superior ingredients may further be included alongside the SND Corrector for skin brightening benefits of cell communicating ingredients.

Integration Due to the activity of Dermalogica products, the brand doesn’t have separate products for the neck and bust.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

neck & bust

37

“However, in all product application instructions we include the neck and top area of the bust (referred to as décolleté),” say the experts at Dermalogica.

“Neck and bust creams are very ‘cosmetic’, whereas a professional product worth their salt will treat this as part of the facial region (Zone 14 as per Dermalogica’s Face Mapping® analysis system).” PB

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2016

devices

38

In your hands There are a number of handheld devices with differing technologies that can be incorporated into facial treatments to enhance a results-driven customer experience.

Anesi Skinview To aid the therapist in diagnosing the client’s skin, the Anesi Skinview, which is similar to a smartphone device, measures eight different skin factors in under 10 minutes – elasticity, hydration, pore size, melanin (pigmentation), wrinkle depth, skin sensitivity, acne (presence of bacteria on the skin), and sebum production.

Says Yolandi Mestre of Anesi distributor, Exclusive Beauty Solutions: “The Skinview is a one-ofa-kind device and, after doing the full analysis, the unit also advises which professional treatment should be offered in salon, as well as the best possible home care for the client. Prescribed products are shown with a full picture of the treatment and home care product on the device,

which can easily be connected to a tablet or iPad, giving the client the information right in front of her.

“Those salons that have taken in the Anesi Skinview have seen a huge increase in retail sales.

While the tool will never replace a skincare therapist, once a client sees a recommendation on a screen, they automatically buy the product.”

Mestre notes that Skinview also saves the information so that a follow up skin diagnosis will show the client exactly how the skin has improved.

Skinview was devoloped in collaboration with Sony and Samsung.

LED Masque The DermaFix LED Masque is a device that emits light of various wavelengths in order to stimulate or activate different responses within the skin.

Says Ursula Hunt of DermaFix: “As the light varies in wavelength, the colour of the light emitted changes accordingly to the specific wavelength used. Typical colours used may include green, red, blue and yellow.”

Green light (525-550-nm) is used to target ageing skin as it assists to stimulate nutrient uptake into the skin, while reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles through an improved skin healing function. This is especially beneficial to use alongside scar reduction protocols.

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2016

Red light (650-730nm) assists in stimulating the production of collagen and elastin within the skin and allows for an improvement in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, as well as benefiting skin texture and reducing enlarged pores.

Blue light (430-450nm) is best used in calming acne proliferation by working in an anti-bacterial capacity to destroy Porphyrins found within acne bacterium.

It also promotes antiinflammatory responses proving beneficial for skin prone to hypersensitivity.

Biotec The Elemis Biotec device represents the brand’s fusion of high-potency actives, therapist’s touch, and technology. Biotec incorporates five technologies in a single device to deliver eight different targeted facial treatments for specific skin needs.

These technologies, namely microcurrent, galvanic, ultrasound, light therapy, and oxygen infusion, deliver dynamic skincare results with long term benefits. Biotec treatments serve to re-boot cellular performance and enhance the skin’s ability to repair and rejuvenate.

The device has been clinically and consumer tested with proven results.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

VISIBLY TRANSFORMING SKIN & YOUR BUSINESS As the leading luxury British skincare and spa brand, we are proud to deliver exceptional account management, an award-winning promotional programme and industry-renowned education

WE LOOK AFTER YOUR NEEDS, WHILST YOU LOOK AFTER YOUR CLIENTS

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WINNER of Best British Brand at CEW (UK) Beauty Awards as voted by the beauty industry insiders

+27 21 442 7700 I elemispr@pcgroup.co.za

CM150830 PCG Elemis Trade advert - Professional Beauty A4.indd 1

NAIL ACADEMY Johannesburg . Cape Town MANICURE AND PEDICURE MANICURE AND PEDICURE REVITALIZE GELISH 101 GELISH NAIL DESIGN GELISH HARD GEL PROHESION NAIL TECHNOLOGY GOOD TO GREAT PROHESION SCULPTING HARMONY REFLECTION NAIL DESIGN IBX SYSTEM COMPLETE ITEC DIPLOMA

For more information on 2016 courses please contact: nailacademy@sparklesa.co.za or visit www.sparklesa.co.za

25/09/2015 09:39

awards

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awards winners The winners of the most prestigious awards in the salon and spa sector were announced at the Professional Beauty Gala Awards dinner, held on 28 August at Room Five in Rivonia, Johannesburg.

The Finalists (W)= Winner Therapist of the Year Hashini Garach – The Spa at The Oyster Box (W) Andrea Appel – Origin Skin Studio Farah Essack – The Laser Beautique

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aster of Ceremonies for the glitzy and highprofile event, which was attended by over 300 guests, was veteran comedian Mel Miller, with live music provided by Brent Harris & Thee Jam. This year’s hotly contested awards competition saw the introduction of two brand-new categories, namely Men’s Grooming Salon of the Year and Nail Technician of the Year.

Spa/Salon Manager of the Year Joanne de Wet – The Spa at The Twelve Apostles (W) Cecilia Labuschagne – Beauty Studio Marian Nelson – Origin Day Spa Day Spa of the Year Hammam Turkish Bath & Spa Soulstice Day Spa Aronia Day Spa (W)

Salon of the Year (4 rooms and more) Professional Skin Care Lab (W) RUB Salon Chique Skin Technology

Hotel/Resort Spa of the Year Umngazi River Bungalows & Spa (W) The Valley Lodge & Spa Arabella Spa

Aesthetic Clinic of the Year The Laser Beautique Morningside Sheer Touch (W) 15 on Seventh Medical Spa

Salon of the Year (3 rooms and less) Skin & Nail Lounge Origin Skin Studio Madeleen Health & Beauty Studio (W)

Nail Salon of the Year Yemaya Spa Cavendish RUB Salon (W) Nail & Beauty Studio

Men’s Grooming Salon of the Year Hines & Harley Men’s Grooming Lounge Glasshouse Rejuvenation for Men (W) M.E.G The Skin & Body Experts

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Nail Technician of the Year Shantel Crous – independent nail technician Nadia Erasmus – Nadz Hope Nails@ Style on Vredekloof Lomaphungo H Dungo – SOHO (W)

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Day Spa of the Year Aronia Day Spa (Tasneem Patel) How do you feel about winning this award?

We are very delighted to have won!

What do you think makes your spa unique in the market?

Aronia Day Spa is relatively new in the market, having opened last year, and is focused on relaxation, rejuvenation and pampering. We aim to exceed our clients’ expectations, not only with our 5-star spa facility, but, most importantly, with our high level of service and quality of treatments.

How do you go about attracting and retaining clients?

Referrals and word of mouth are the single most powerful tools to attract new clients. In order to retain clients, we have to maintain our service levels and exceed expectations on a continuous basis.

Hotel / Resort Spa of the Year Umngazi Spa (Michele Walker) You are a previous winner of this award – how does it feel to have triumphed again?

We are delighted with our third Professional Beauty award and I believe that we have managed to clinch it again because we did not sit back on our laurels. We stepped out of the awards last year as we felt that we needed to refocus and spend some time innovating. We did a large refurbishment of both decor and rooms and added a wonderful new relaxation area, rain forest shower and reflexology pebble walk. We are very happy with the end result and our many return guests love the new additions, look and feel of the spa.

What do you think is unique about your spa?

Umngazi River Bungalows is a unique

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2016

destination – it has a great feeling of authentic local and ‘pondo’, combined with a casual/relaxed atmosphere but with special care and focus on service excellence. We are proud of the fact that our ‘spa music’ is sourced from the sounds of nature coming from the birds and surf through our open doors.

What procedures have you implemented to ensure your spa’s success?

Innovation, innovation, innovation!

The spa is just one department of a guest-focused team that shares the hotel ethos of: ‘Arrive as a guest and leave as a friend’. This reflects in every interaction – from arrival to departure. In addition, we do a monthly guest survey and take any feedback received

as a new opportunity to improve and grow. We put a strong emphasis on the development and growth of our team, constantly training and striving to improve. We currently have four spa development trainees, three of whom we are going through a Diploma in Beauty.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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Salon of the Year (3 rooms and less) Madeleen Effortless Beauty (Madeleen van der Merwe) How does it feel to have won this award?

I am humbled. The honour goes to God. He is the business partner who helps us make all the decisions. I am thankful to be in a position of working so closely with people and to bless them with touch.

What is your salon’s vision?

The salon’s vision is to be the preferred health and beauty destination in South Africa for the consumer and for the therapist.

What do you feel makes your salon stand apart in terms of service?

It is not what we do but how we do it. We not only focus on this while the client is with us, but how he or she feels when they walk out of our salon, as well as becoming part of the family afterwards. The experience will be a memory.

What advice would you give to a salon owner starting off in the business?

You must have a passion to empower therapists. Do not build the business

around yourself as a person.

That will help you to work on the business and not in the business.

Salon of the Year (4 rooms or more) Professional Skin Care Lab (Gina Gall) How does it feel to have won this award two years in a row?

After winning our award we have received so many compliments and would like to thank everyone who supports us and Professional Beauty for hosting such a great Gala Dinner event. We feel humbled and proud to have won this award two years in a row. It has done wonders for the morale of our entire team.

What do you think makes your salon different from other salons?

We create a friendly and welcoming atmosphere, making each and every client feel special. Our clients enjoy coming in for treatments and are often so relaxed, they feel as though they could stay for the rest of the day. Educating our clients is very important to us, so that we can equip them with the knowledge to take better care of their skin concerns.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

What is your service ethos?

We uphold professionalism in every aspect of our business and strive to improve each client’s experience at Professional Skin Care Lab. Our passion for what we do drives us to go the extra mile and deliver exceptional customer service.

How do you go about attracting and retaining clients?

We are so fortunate to have a loyal and ever-growing client base through word of mouth and referrals. What we offer is distinctive, assisting us in retaining our clients.

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Men’s Grooming Salon of the Year Glasshouse Rejuvenation for Men (Carol Boag) How does it feel to have won this inaugural award?

This is an amazing achievement and we are absolutely thrilled to have such a wonderful accolade to accompany our brand.

What are the outstanding features of your salon?

A relaxed, modern and masculine environment that’s not intimidating to our male clients. Guys leave us feeling pampered, with an air of the personal touch in that they don’t just feel like ‘another number’. Our clients love our pedi-spa area, where they can get groomed while sipping on a beer and watching the sport on TV. The interactivity of this area keeps the guys coming back.

What practices have you implemented to ensure success?

Employing the right staff, who feel comfortable working with a male

clientele, coupled with regular training. We also maintain a consistent high level of customer care to ensure the high quality of our services is retained. We have built Glasshouse up as an extremely well-recognised brand within the grooming industry and will keep up with everything we have been doing to ensure we stay at the top of our game.

What is your philosophy regarding clients?

We strive to make sure that all our clients are treated in such a way that they feel comfortable at all times; our clients are our number one priority.

Professionalism, a high level of service and client care, is what Glasshouse is known for.

Aesthetic Clinic of the Year Sheer Touch Laser Hair Removal & Aesthetics Centre (Tasneem Patel)

What is the clinic’s point of uniqueness in a highly competitive arena?

Understanding clients’ needs and transforming those needs into results.

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2016

What is your service ethos?

To exceed expectations.

How you go about retaining staff?

By merging the company’s goals with those of the employees.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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Therapist of the Year Hashini Garach (The Spa at The Oyster Box) How does it feel to have won this award?

It is an amazing feeling to have won such a prestigious award. This acknowledgement is something that I will cherish throughout my life. I would like to thank the Oyster Box spa team for their support, as without them I would not have been able to win this award.

What sets you apart from other therapists?

I am a well-groomed, professional therapist who takes pride in what I do. I am a friendly and approachable person, who is always willing to offer a helping hand when one is needed. I strongly believe that with the combination of my skills and knowledge, I am able to be a leader and benefit not only the spa, but my fellow colleagues and the guests.

My mission is to make guests feel at ease, so that they entrust me with treatments. I have a passion that allows me to give professional therapy and home care advice, so

that my guests continue to see results at home. I believe in going above and beyond the call of duty.

training and keeping updated with the latest treatments, products and protocols. One of the best ways to continuously develop new ideas and ways of thinking is to expand my network.

What key factors do you focus on in order to excel in your profession?

Ensuring that I am up to date with

Spa/Salon Manager of the Year Joanne de Wet (The Spa at The Twelve Apostles) What qualities make for a good manager?

A good manager is one who is honest, builds a good relationship with each and every team member and always strives to put guests first, but keeps the staff as one of her main priorities. Happy staff give rise to happy clients and that has always been my number one motto.

How do you motivate your staff?

Team meetings are vital to keep staff motivated as this is the time when I acknowledge staff who have done really well and give motivation to those who need to do better.

Team outings are definitely a must

online at www.probeauty.co.za

as this motivates the team to work together. I set monthly incentives so staff have a goal to work towards to improve themselves and to increase business revenue.

What areas do you need to focus on to ensure a successfully run business?

The cleanliness and upkeep of the spa are two of the most important factors, as our clients need to feel that they are walking into a piece of heaven. I ensure that therapists are regularly re-trained so that they are constantly up to date with the latest trends. My receptionists are trained to make sure guests are well looked after throughout their experience.

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2016

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Nail Salon of the Year RUB (Jennifer Fieldgate) What do you feel sets you apart from your competition in terms of nail services?

Our therapists go on continual training and are always on top of what is current and on trend. I receive individualised attention from my LCN rep, who was also a nail technician and makes sure our standard is maintained. We also ensure client relationships are built. And, we always greet clients by name.

How do you ensure return business?

We have a loyalty app which is downloaded onto clients’ phones.

They are scanned every time they come in for a treatment. My staff also always rebook them when they leave.

house. I encourage my staff to enter nail competitions continuously.

What training do you offer your nail technicians?

Retail training from LCN is always current and on point. This goes hand in hand with treatment training in-

Do you have any future plans for your nail bar?

Yes, I am about to launch an aggressive PR campaign over the next three months.

Nail Technician of the Year Lomaphungo Donga (SOHO) How does it feel to have won the inaugural Nail Technician of the Year award?

I was really overwhelmed by the whole experience. I couldn't believe I won, even though I was hoping I would. My nerves almost got the better of me, but I thank my support unit for being there with me on the night.

What do you think are your strong points as a nail technician?

I pay particular attention to detail and am confident in the work I perform. To me it's not a laborious exercise but a passion.

When performing a service on a client, what are your priorities?

What the guest wants is always of paramount importance for me as I aim to give the best of my

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2016

abilities to each and every client. Each service is unique and presents its own challenges, thus I'm always at my best with each service.

What advice would you give to any nail technicians starting out?

The nail industry is not for the faint–

hearted, largely due to it being a people-orientated industry, but it is rewarding as you grow in it. Always find the means and ways to better yourself and avoid stagnation in the process. Do not be afraid of challenges as these make you grow stronger and more confident in yourself.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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Victory dance at the Industry Awards

Each year Professional Beauty hosts the Industry Awards to identify and acknowledge the top suppliers in the beauty and nail sector.

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ominees and winners in the Professional Beauty Industry Awards are voted on solely by the industry – there is no judging process involved.

Winners were announced at the Professional Beauty Gala Awards Dinner, held on 28 August at Room Five in Rivonia, Johannesburg.

The Finalists (W)= Winner Best Customer Care – Skincare Environ Theravine SIX (W) Dermalogica Best Customer Care – Nail Care OPI Young Nais Sparkle Cosmetics Bio Sculpture (W) Best Supplier – Equipment / Supplies Leonelda Upfront Professional Nail & Beauty Supplies Smart Buy Depileve (W)

online at www.probeauty.co.za www.probeauty.co.za

Best Training OPI Theravine Dermalogica (W) RégimA Best Marketing OPI (W) Dermalogica Environ Sparkle Best Sales Representative Andrew Boberg Tanya van der Walt (W) Marlieze Kuhn Shivani Ramgoram

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Best Customer Care – Skincare SIX (Marisa Dimitriadis) What do you think sets SIX apart from other skincare suppliers in terms of service?

Every member of our company, from the sales executive to the warehouse packer, is passionate about their job and passionate about our stockists.

We view our stockists as business partners and see our journey together as a marriage. We always find ways to make our brand and the interaction with our company memorable and refreshing, not just expected and boring.

What do you feel makes your clients satisfied with your service offering?

Our clients feel our genuine care and interest in their businesses. They also love our ability to act quickly upon their requests. We focus on ensuring that our clients make more money and higher profits with our brands; we focus on training them to deliver memorable treatments that keep the

consumers coming back. Our business training is one of the service offerings that make an immediate difference in any salon/spa business.

How do you go about attracting new clients?

In every possible way we can, but mostly through word of mouth,

referrals and social media. Our team is passionate about sourcing new business and this is a huge focus in our business, so much so that we have a new business development consultant who makes this a priority.

Best Sales Representative Tanya van der Walt (The Spa Consultants) How does it feel to have won this award?

I feel so honoured and privileged, especially as I know the other reps nominated are all fantastic in what they do and would be worthy winners. It really feels amazing that one’s hard work and dedication has paid off.

What do you feel are your strong points that were instrumental in winning the award?

I feel my strong points are certain skills that are fundamental to being successful in any sales environment. This includes basic things like proper daily planning, creating relationships and caring for your customers, together with consistency and hard work. However,

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2016

I feel none of this can be achieved without a positive mindset.

How do you strengthen your relationships with clients?

For me, it is very important to deliver on the customer service promise but also to stay consistent in terms of the product and service delivered to clients. I also get to know my customers very well and make sure that they feel comfortable about discussing anything and everything with me, so that we can work as a partnership to take their business forward. We at The Spa Consultants are, after all, in the business that changes lives.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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Best Customer Care – Nail Care Bio Sculpture (Elmien Scholtz) How does it feel to have won this award?

Firstly, we thank Professional Beauty for hosting the Expo and for a great trade magazine. We know what goes into organising an Awards Gala event of such standard and the preparation that goes into finding winners in the field. We really appreciate the effort that Professional Beauty pours into the industry.

It is an honour and, in a way, humbling to win such an award. Like everyone else said on awards night, without our team and customers, we would not be there. It is wonderful to know that everyone involved in the company is constantly giving their best and that we can try to reward their hard work. But nothing is as rewarding as receiving the acknowledgement from you.

What processes have you implemented to ensure complete customer satisfaction?

We believe that nothing compares

with personal contact. Connection.

As the company and customer base grows, it becomes more challenging to get to every technician personally but through our distributors, we make an effort to keep in contact in some way, whether by telephone, SMS, e-mail or via our Bio News newsletter.

Our customer care division takes client contact seriously and we try to respond to clients as quickly as is possible. Furthermore, we listen.

During training, we teach educators and salon owners to be alert and constantly find out what their clients’ needs are. We try to keep a constant

connection between what the consumer wants and what we supply.

How do you go about attracting new clients?

Bio Sculpture has been around for many, many years, before the era of social media. Magazine advertising will always stay part of our marketing to attract new clients, but to do proper market research to determine and meet clients’ demands there is no better tool than social media. Once you have a smooth-running network, it forms a healthy way of advertising and allows you to grow.

Best Supplier – Equipment / Supplies Smart Buy Depileve (Adriaan Jordaan) How does it feel to have won this award four years in a row?

It feels absolutely great – it makes us realise that we are doing something right in the industry and for that we have to thank our loyal clients for their ongoing support.

What is your service ethos?

There is NO problem, big or small, that cannot be resolved and we will not give up until we are satisfied that our clients walk away happy and satisfied.

How do you make sure you maintain strong relationships with your clients?

Communication and good service!

We make sure to inform them of all that is happening in our company and industry. Smart Buy Depilève has the most amazing team on board!

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2016

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Best Marketing OPI (Lauren Nielsen) What do you feel sets OPI apart in terms of marketing?

OPI is an iconic brand and the use of our iconic bottles immediately brings OPI to the customer’s mind. We are fortunate to have beautiful images and beautiful colours. Our marketing also revolves around ensuring how our product is displayed in store. Our POS (point of sale) is designed to make sure our nail lacquers are displayed in a way that the client can see all the products and feel excited by the colours.

Please describe a recent OPI marketing campaign that you feel has worked really well in this competitive market.

We relaunched the OPI brand as a product of The Prestige Cosmetics Group. We did two events in Johannesburg and Cape Town, where the press and salons were invited for a ‘morning off’. This was designed to reintroduce OPI’s Infinite Shine and

GelColour ranges and to allow the market to experience the brand by getting their nails done.

Best Training Dermalogica (Diana van Sittert) How does it feel to have won this award?

It is humbling and inspiring at the same time. What could be better than receiving an award for the endless commitment and energy every training specialist and training coordinator puts into their everyday tasks to inspire therapists in such a way that they realise that they are changing lives through changing skin?

What is Dermalogica’s philosophy in terms of training?

The company was first and foremost an educational company and this will remain the core focus of the organisation going forward. Dermalogica education is all about the passion to inspire, elevate and upskill – not only on the brand but on all skills needed to be the best you can be in the industry.

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2016

What sort of training support do you provide to your clients?

We support our business partners on all levels needed for optimal business growth. Nail technicians and administrative personnel are upskilled to support the skincare therapist and to enable them to assist clients with basic knowledge on the brand and their

skin. Qualified skincare therapists are educated on the brand and in retail skills, as well as on how to create a superior customer journey through a status elevation approach.

Business owners and managers are supported with business acumen and business planning workshops.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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Crowning glory Tress-a-licious news from the hair front.

Beautiful blossoms

Caring for curls

The limited edition Cherry Blossom Flowers Shampoo and Conditioner from the Inoar Flowers range is infused with an extremely natural and light cherry blossom formula, which acts as an anti-oxidant and stimulates the scalp for healthy growth, shiny, and weightlessly hydrated hair.

The Curly Set from South African brand, The Perfect Hair, includes CoWash, a creamy, sulphate-free, cassia-infused conditioning cleanser to be used instead of shampoo to make curls soft and manageable.

Curly Deep-Deep conditioner is an intense treatment infused with Abyssian, Argan, grape seed and creamy cashmere for a luxe treatment.

012 346 1721

It’s a tease!

Following the success of Tangle Teezer’s firstever designer collaboration last year, the brand has teamed up with iconic British designer Lulu Guinness for a second time. The stylish pairing sees Tangle Teezer’s on-the-go detangling brush, the Compact Styler, emblazoned with one of Lulu's SS16 designs – the graphic Vertical Lipstick print.

083 560 1172

021 448 8847

Into the future On October 5th, 30 students graduated from Schwarzkopf Professional’s second Shaping Futures programme for 2016.

This initiative aims to provide opportunities for passionate hairstylists from disadvantaged backgrounds. The programme is presented by experienced South African and international stylists and trainers who volunteer their services.

011 617 2551

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2016

nails

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A nail-biting finish Top nail technicians and nail artists in Gauteng descended upon Gallagher Convention Centre at the end of August to compete in the annual Professional Beauty Nail Competition.

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un as part of the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo, the prestigious Professional Beauty Nail Competition exists to encourage and reward excellence and creativity in the industry.

This year’s competition was fiercely contested by dozens of nail technicians, with some excellent skills displayed and dazzlingly creative sets of nails produced in the art categories.

Judges for the various categories this year included Sonette van Rensburg (competition director); Yvette Nel; Franzelle De Villiers; Cornia Robertse; Nadia Erasmus; and Tracey Owgan.

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2016

online at www.probeauty.co.za

nails

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Winner: Tip Overlay Mixed Novice

Winner: Gel Polish Creations

THE RESULTS: MIXED MEDIA NAIL ART – ‘ALICE THROUGH THE LOOKING GLASS’ 1st place – Alina Kuzmenko 2nd place – Chantel Smith Sponsor: E.Mi School of Nail Design GEL POLISH MANICURE 1st place – Samantha Moodley 2nd place – Antonique du Toit Sponsor: Gelish GEL POLISH CREATIONS 1st place – Jessie Scott-Turner 2nd place – Swoncie Snyman Sponsor: Gelish TIP OVERLAY MIXED NOVICE 1st place – Danette de Lange 2nd place – Danika Daniz Sponsor: Young Nails

TIP OVERLAY LIQUID & POWDER INTERMEDIATE 1st place – Denise Claasen 2nd place – Louise Heyns Sponsor: IBD

Winner: Gel Polish Manicure

SCULPTING ACRYLIC / GEL – INTERMEDIATE 1st place – Annieke van Dyk 2nd place – Christine Mulolo Sponsor: Looking Good LCN MIXED MASTERS SCULPTING CHALLENGE 1st place – Katia Da Silva 2nd place – Frederickt Vuyk Sponsor: Looking Good LCN Winner: Masters Sculpting Challenge

Winners: Mixed Media Nail Art

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2016 Winner: Sculpting Acrylic Gel - Intermediate

medical aesthetics

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Goodbye to veins One method of treating varicose veins and venous malformations is sclerotherapy. Dr David Grieve provides the low down.

F

irstly, what exactly is sclerotherapy? This is a procedure used to treat blood vessels or blood vessel malformations (vascular malformations). A sclerosing agent is injected into the vessels, which makes them shrink.

It is used for children and young adults with vascular or lymphatic malformations.

In adults, sclerotherapy is often used to treat varicose veins and haemorrhoids.

The main aim is to destroy the

vessel’s inner surface and then having it heal with the vessel walls against one another, obliterating the inner surface and thus the whole vessel.

When did it begin?

The first description of medical treatments for varicose veins is found in the writings of Hippocrates around 400BC. He described t r e a t m e n t s resembling what he called

‘a slender instrument of iron’ causing trauma to the blood vessels resulting in thrombosis.

In the 1600s, D Zollikofer from Switzerland, reported injecting an acid into a vein to cause thrombosis and this was the first recorded ‘sclerotherapy’.

Modern sclerotherapy with its three main products was only really started as recently as the 1960s.

Our main products today include: • Sodium Tetradecyl Sulphate (STD) • Polidocanol (Veno Fresh) - I like to believe the safest of the three • Hypertonic Saline

Anatomy and physiology Without going into too much detail, here are a few basic ideas one has to keep in mind when assessing a patient for possible sclerotherapy.

Firstly, the legs have a deep venous system and a superficial system. The deep system carries about 85% of the blood back to the heart and the superficial system only about 15%. This

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is in normal circumstances. There are areas where perforators communicate between the two systems. These systems have a pressure that is normally about one tenth of the arterial system.

The main problem that leads to varicose veins and telangiectasia is really the damage to small pocketlike valves in the veins that assist the blood to circulate back to the heart.

One has to consider in essence whether one can perform such a procedure on a patient by ensuring that the deep system is not compromised.

The main test is a Trendelenburg test.

One can also assess the deep system by means of ultrasound, which is perhaps the safest method to do so.

Some of the causes of varicose veins and telangiectasia: • Changes in weight • Heredity • Gender • Posture • Occupation R

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2016

medical aesthetics

58 • Hormones • Deep Vein Thrombosis These are just to mention a few. The various forms of varicose veins can be classified into many forms.

Some pitfalls to avoid when examining the patient Deep

vein thrombosis is a contra-indication and needs to be excluded.

Abdominal and pelvic tumours need to be excluded.

These are definitely things to disqualify your patient from any such treatments, as the superficial system may be the only way the blood is being circulated back to the heart.

How sclerosing agents work The method of action is the production of endothelial damage in the vein, causing the activation of intrinsic clotting systems to produce thrombosis. The optimal sclerosing agent should produce as little thrombosis as necessary as to ensure subsequent fibrosis of the vessel with minimal side effects. The complete obliteration of the vessel is the ultimate goal of sclerotherapy.

Treatment methods Various methods have been described including but not limited to: • The French Te c h n i q u e (Tournay)

medical aesthetics

59 • The Sigg Technique • The Fagan Technique In the simplest form, all these techniques involve injecting the unwanted veins with a sclerosing agent that causes the target vein to immediately shrink, and then dissolve over a period of weeks as the body naturally absorbs the treated vein. The downtime is minimal, in comparison to an invasive varicose vein surgery.

Sclerotherapy is the ‘gold standard’ and is preferred over laser for eliminating large spider veins (telangiectasia) and smaller varicose leg veins. Unlike a laser, the sclerosing solution additionally closes the perforator veins under the skin that cause the spider veins to form, thereby making a recurrence of the spider veins in the treated area less likely.

Multiple injections of diluted sclerosing agent are injected into the abnormal surface veins of the involved leg. This is not always as easy as it looks!

The patient's leg is then compressed with either stockings or bandages that they wear usually for two weeks after treatment. Patients are also encouraged to walk regularly during that time. It is common practice for the patient to require at least two treatment sessions separated by several weeks to significantly improve the appearance of their leg veins.

Sclerotherapy can also be performed using microfoam sclerosing agents to treat larger varicose veins, including the great and small saphenous veins.

As a general guide I personally like to use Polidocanol to treat the telangiectasia and small varicose veins.

Normally I use a high quality syringe with a 30g needle, which gives me great results. If it is a small area I would strap it with a compression bandage for two to three days.

When I treat larger veins I will use a foam solution of STD and inject the agent into the larger veins by using a few strategically placed 21g butterfly needles. These patients I would strap for several days or request them to where good quality varicose vein stocking for several days.

I always encourage the patients to mobilise immediately after treatments, to prevent any deep thrombi from developing.

R

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2016

medical aesthetics

60 Complications and side effects As with all aesthetic procedures there can be complications, some more common than others. If one obeys the basic rules, the complications should be able to be kept to a minimum. Here are some of the complications: • Cutaneous necrosis • Allergic reaction to sclerosing agent • Deep vein thrombosis • Nerve damage • Hyperpigmentation • Swelling • Pain • Vaso-vagal reflex • Compression blistering • Discoloration

Some personal pointers • Always use good lighting.

• Consider using a magnifying lamp.

• Make sure you use a comfortable chair as these treatments can be time consuming.

• Make use of linen savers.

• Avoid injecting sclerosing agent into tissue; if you are not in the vein then rather re-canulate.

• When treating spider veins start high and work down.

• Swap needles regularly.

• Always remember you are treating a human being and it is good to manage expectations.

I have tried to give a brief overview of sclerotherapy but please note again that many aspects may not have been

covered, but for the sake of brevity I have just covered the most important points. PB Dr David Grieve performed his first Sclerotherapy in 1998 and has been at it more intensively since 2009. He is also involved in various other medical aesthetics in the form of anti-ageing (Botox), dermal fillers and weight loss programmes.

E-mail drdavidgrieve@gmail.com

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saahsp

64 South African Association of Health and Skincare Professionals

Cidesco Section South Africa

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CIDESCO World Congress report Menna Kleine, president of SAAHSP – CIDESCO Section South Africa, provides a feedback report on the 70th Anniversary and 64th CIDESCO World Congress & Exhibition in Dublin.

I

t is with great joy that I have the opportunity to report on this event which took place from 22 to 26 September 2016.

On Thursday, 22 September, the event started with an Examiners’ Meeting. The following day, the Schools’ Meeting took place. An interesting and thought provoking lecture on how to deal with visual learners was presented by SAAHSP’s Sandy Fuhr. During the meeting an emphasis was placed on the referral to the CIDESCO Knowledgebase Portal, which includes the following new developments: • New Log Books • New Beauty Therapy Diploma • NEW Beauty and Spa Management Diploma • New Make-up Diploma On Saturday, 24 September, the General Assembly took place.

Highlights are as follows: Serbia was admitted as a new CIDESCO Section and the USA Section was transferred to The Chicago Cosmetologist Association.

Josephine Wackett was admitted as an Honorary Member.

Various Rules, Regulations and Trademarks were amended.

The new Board members were elected as follows: • President Anna-Cari Gund (Sweden ) • Vice President – Karin Lupgens (Netherlands) • Public Relations – Sandy Fuhr (South Africa) • Treasurer – Biju Nair (India) • Education – 2 Positions will in future

be allocated to this function • Pamela Adkins (Japan) • Victoria Harper (Switzerland) Congratulations Sandy Fuhr on your re-election to the board. Your talents and ingenuity have earned you the seat for a second time and for this we salute you!

It was announced that the next CIDESCO World Congress will be hosted by India.

Finally, Sections were presented with special anniversary commemorative plaques, with CIDESCO Section – South Africa awarded for its 40 years of dedication and commitment to CIDESCO. As president, I was honoured to receive the plaque on behalf of South Africa.

This was a humbling experience as the boards before us worked so hard to accomplish so much. I am sure they would be proud of the present board as so much has been accomplished in a short period.

On 25 and 26 September, the CIDESCO Congress and Professional Beauty Exhibition took place and three South African Speakers were featured: • Ian Fuhr – ‘Building a culture of service through servant leadership’ • Dr Ridwan Mia – ‘When extreme cases lead to extraordinary developments in skin treatments’ • Dr Des Fernandes – ‘Rejuvenation

by CIT (Collagen Induction Therapy) and the role of the skincare therapist’ Thank you to each of you for taking the time to share your pioneering knowledge with our industry. Your support is much appreciated.

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2016

As this was CIDESCO’s 70th Anniversary celebration event, the gala dinner was a truly auspicious occasion.

We are proud to announce that Arlene Davey and Helene Bramwell were awarded for their legendary contributions to the industry. We thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise with the world.

Thank you to my board for giving Samantha Ramsamy and I the opportunity to attend this prestigious event. Our attendance was fruitful as we learnt a lot and were able to make valuable contributions.

We formed valuable and lasting relationships and helped to build the CIDESCO we all know into an even better organisation. PB

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