Professional Beauty SA

AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BUSINESS

incorporating

DEVICE DELIGHT INVESTING IN LASERS, IPLS AND RF

BLURRED LINES

WHEN MAKE-UP MEETS SKINCARE

GENTLEMEN PREFER GROOMING

THE GROWING MALE MARKET Mar/Apr 2019 | probeauty.co.za

10

16

In this issue...

32

Regulars

Special Features

Aesthetic Medicine

5 Industry news

22 Men only

35 Investing in machines vs ROI

Local and international news

42 Crowning glory

What’s hot and happening in the hair industry

Hines & Harley founder, Jared Hines, on male skincare

25 Man of the moment

40 Taking it in the neck

Male grooming products

43 In the market

27 On show in KZN

All the latest launches

46 SAAHSP

News from The Professional Body

Business 10 Ask the Experts

All your questions answered

Tracking the industry with stats

16 A first-class service

Professional Beauty Durban Preview

29 A manly pursuit

Black Pearl Bespoke Men’s Treatment

Rejuvenation of the neck and décolletage

Nails 47

NailFile

Issue 25

31 Riding the (plasma) wave

13 Insider

Adding devices to your aesthetics offering

SIX Aesthetix Plasma Wave Facial

32 A two-way street

Make-up with skincare benefits

Getting your managerial message across

18 Talking to…Olivier Bonnefoy

Interview with the founder of Gentlemen’s Tonic

Spa Focus 14 Location, location, location

The evolution of an airport spa

25 online @ probeauty.co.za

Welcome

2

T

his issue of Professional Beauty features our annual special focus on male grooming trends and we are delighted to be able to include an in-depth interview with Olivier Bonnefoy, the founder of leading international men’s salon and product brand, Gentlemen’s Tonic. Bonnefoy provides much insight into the growth of the male grooming market over the past few years and reveals that he is looking into the possibility of opening a salon in South Africa.

We also have an expert on male skincare – Jared Hines of the award-winning Hines & Harley men’s grooming salon – write on the topic. Hines points out that while unisex products can be used on men, the subtle differences between male and female skin do warrant the very real need for male-centric products. Plus, men love using products that they know have been specifically formulated for them.

The economy of the country is obviously intrinsically linked to salon and spa business, so for that reason we have run as our lead news story how the recently announced 2019 Budget may impact on businesses. Still on the subject of business, we also report on the fact that the iconic founder of Sorbet, Ian Fuhr, has resigned from Sorbet/Long4Life. As readers may recall, Sorbet South Africa was sold to JSE-listed Long4Life back in 2017.

Fuhr’s resignation from Sorbet marks the end of an era, having opened the first Sorbet salon in 2004 and growing it into a massive, countrywide franchise.

A growing trend in the beauty and aesthetics industry has been the demand from consumers for device-based facial and body treatments.

This issue provides valuable information about financing such machines – be they laser, IPL, radiofrequency or diagnostic – and the ROI (return of investment) business owners can expect.

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

@PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SOUTH AFRICA @probeautyexpo @PROBEAUTYSA

PROFESSIONALBEAUTY

AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BUSINESS

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Subscribe 7 issues for R510 (RSA) To receive your copy of Professional Beauty call 011 781 5970

Publisher Mark Moloney

011 781 5970

Managing Director Yolanda Knott

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mark@probeauty.co.za

TREATING AFRICAN SKIN • SALON FURNITURE & EQUIPMENT • ANTIOXIDANT SKINCARE

Commercial Director Philip Woods 011 781 5970

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Editor Joanna Sterkowicz

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DEVICE DELIGHT

Art Director Alois Sajanga

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BLURRED LINES

Marketing Manager Stacey Platt 011 781 5970

INVESTING IN LASERS, IPLS AND RF

stacey@tetradeevents.com

WHEN MAKE-UP MEETS SKINCARE

GENTLEMEN PREFER GROOMING

THE GROWING MALE MARKET Mar/Apr 2019 | probeauty.co.za

Sales Manager Alexandra Norvall

On the cover Cover source: www.shutterstock.com

082 880 2047 alex@probeauty.co.za

Cape Town Sales Executive Carla Hamman 084 894 6172 carla@probeauty.co.za Sales Executive Pholani Sithole

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pholani@probeauty.co.za

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Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970 The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher.

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JESSICA® is a registered trademark. trad ©2018 JESSICA Cosmetics International, Inc. JESSICA® is a registered trademark. ©2018 JESSICA Cosmetics International, Inc.

5 News

News How 2019 Budget impacts the beauty industry In his 2019 Budget Speech presented on 20 February in Cape Town, Finance Minister Tito Mboweni acknowledged the importance of SMEs (Small and Medium-Size Enterprises) to South Africa’s economy, and allocated R481.6m allocated to the Small Enterprise Development Agency’s incubation programme.

This is expected to boost both the creation of new businesses and the survival rate of existing businesses.

In addition, the minister set aside R3.2bn to operationalise the small business and innovation fund over the medium term.

According to Business Day, The expected economic growth for 2018 is still at 0.7% as outlined in the 2018 medium-term budget policy statement, despite the 2018 technical recession. Real gross domestic growth in 2019 is expected to rise to 1.5% and strengthen moderately to 2.1% in 2021.

Welcome news from the 2019 Budget is that there will be no increases in income tax rates and the VAT rate will remain unchanged.

In addition, visa requirements will be relaxed, which means good news for the tourism industry This in turn is likely to impact favourably on South African hotel / resort spas

and wellness centres, in line with the strong growth in the global wellness tourism trend.

However, a worrying element in the 2019 Budget is that a Carbon Tax will come into effect from June 1 2019, meaning we will pay tax for polluting the environment.

In addition, fuel levies will increase by 29c per litre for petrol and 30c per litre for diesel.

Although Minister Mboweni did not hike the fuel levy above the inflation rate, Fin24 has quoted the AA (Automobile Association of South Africa) as saying: “The increases to the fuel levies will have a deep impact on the fuel price for the months ahead, placing consumers on the back foot before any price adjustments for the rest of the year are even made.”

Every time fuel levy hikes are introduced, food prices (among other things) rise and consumers tighten their belts. This impacts on salons and spas wanting to entice customers with treatments (often regarded by consumers as a nonessential luxury) and professional retail products, with consumers opting for cheaper drugstore brands. In addition, transport costs for the distribution of beauty products from suppliers to stockists will likely increase.

On the plus side, Minister Mboweni was adamant that data costs must fall, good news considering that most beauty business use online and mobile technologies to run their schedules and bookings, and heavily utilise social media for marketing purposes.

Six Senses’ Melinda Yon confirmed for WSW Melinda Yon, technical services director – Spa and Wellness: Wellness Innovation Team at Six Senses Hotels Resorts Spas, will present the keynote address at this year’s World Spa & Wellness Africa Convention, which runs from 1 to 2 September at Gallagher Convention Centre, Midrand.

Yon will reveal the latest trends affecting the global spa and wellness industry, as well as participate in panel sessions.

Singapore-based Yon works

with the development, design, sustainability and operations teams for the spa and wellness projects for Six Senses. She has more than 15 years of experience working with leading spa and wellness companies in her role as GM of Spa Club Asia (Hong Kong), MD of 360 Spa Solutions (Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur and Singapore) and as a Senior Academic Staff Member at Republic Polytechnic, Singapore, for the School of Hospitality’s, Diploma in Wellness and Business Hospitality.

online @ probeauty.co.za

News

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inbrief // A new botulinum toxin used for anti-wrinkle treatments has been approved by the FDA (Federal Drug Administration) of America.

It is manufactured by Evolus and is in direct competition with Allergan’s marketleading brand of botulinum toxin.

// The Middle East & Africa lipstick market is projected to surpass $440 million by 2023, predominantly on account of growing disposable income resulting in increasing consumer spending on lifestyle and luxury products, according to ResearchAndMarkets.com.

// Dermalogica South Africa’s recently opened Concept Store in Sandton City, Johannesburg is its 13th in this country and is the largest in terms of footprint in South Africa

// New South African skincare brand, DermaClinical, has been launched to the aesthetics market by founder, Debbie Wolfendale of She Wolf Consulting. DermaClinical was conceived as a clean beauty brand and is largely based on serums.

Sorbet UK closes, Fuhr resigns from Sorbet/Long4Life Following the recent closure of Sorbet UK’s five London beauty salons comes the news that Sorbet founder, Ian Fuhr, has resigned from Sorbet/Long4Life.

The Sorbet UK venture had its own shareholders (including Fuhr) and was completely independent from JSE-listed Long4Life, which purchased the Sorbet South Africa Group in 2017.

According to Business Insider SA, Fuhr attributed the closure of Sorbet UK to an extremely tough trading environment that was exacerbated

by Brexit uncertainty, a different work ethic/ culture and insufficiently trained local staff.

Professional Beauty contacted Fuhr for further comment but he declined, saying he would be happy to respond to questions at a later stage. However, Fuhr did emphasise that his resignation from Sorbet/ Long4Life had nothing to do with the Sorbet UK closure. Sorbet UK had been in existence for three years.

Meanwhile, Sorbet South Africa, under CEO Rudi Rudolph, continues to thrive, with 207 stores countrywide. Fuhr opened the first Sorbet store back in 2005.

Double win for Environ Skincare Serum’, won alongside the revolutionary new Environ DF Mobile Device, which was awarded the coveted title of ‘Most Innovative Skincare Tool’.

W&h’s #Straighttalkingbeauty Awards is an annual competition that aims to honour the crème de la crème of the beauty industry.

“We are thrilled to be recognised at this year’s awards,” says Dr Des Fernandes, founder and scientific director at Environ Skin Care. “These

// The Beauty Therapy Institute @ Sorbet Randburg has relocated to Randburg Square Shopping Centre, on the corner of Oak Avenue and Sentrum Road, offering upgraded facilities and easy access to public transport for students. .

Environ Skin Care has scooped two prestigious accolades at the woman&home (w&h) #Straighttalkingbeauty Awards 2019.

The Environ Focus Care Youth+ Frown Serum, voted as the ‘Best

online @ probeauty.co.za

accolades recognise our mission to future-proof skins around the world with the efficacy of our products, which help create the appearance of more youthful, healthy-looking and beautiful skin.”

News

7

Beauté Pacifique opens Africa office Leading Danish cosmeceutical brand, Beauté Pacifique, has partnered with Blue Sky Distribution International to open a subsidiary office in South Africa, servicing the entire continent.

Blue Sky is in the process of building a Beauté Pacifique Dermal Institute in the Magaliesberg, just outside of Johannesburg.

The Beauté Pacifique brand, which was previously available in South Africa with limited distribution, is globally known for its breakthrough peptide technology, developed by cofounder and Nobel Prize winner, Gunnar Svendsen, and for its use of the high frequency ultrasound scanning device, the DermaScan, developed by sister company, Cortex Technology.

Says Beauté Pacifique cofounder and engineer, Flemming Christiansen, who built the DermaScan himself. “This diagnostic device was born from the medical sector and shows the state of your skin. It documents the skin’s progress on our customers. Because of this scanner we are known throughout the world.”

Blue Sky CEO Wayne La Grange, adds: “As a company we only work with clinically proven products. Beauté Pacifique has conducted independent clinical trials to prove the effectiveness of its products and these results were published in a dermatology scientific review.

“The Beauté Pacifique international scienfific team will be coming to South Africa three times this year as part of the brand’s re-launch in South Africa.

We also want to expand this exceptional brand into the rest of Africa. I believe we offer a

superior proposition so we will remain in the professional channel.”

Project Magneto Blue Sky has just launched the Beauté Pacifique Africa Project Magneto, open to all leading training institutes. The 11 top performing somatology students will be offered a work-integrated learning experience being skilled and endorsed by Beauté Pacifique Global.

In addition, the Flemming Christensen Fellowship will pay for the top 2nd year somatology student’s third year of study.

Professional Beauty rebranded under Professional Beauty Group Professional Beauty has had a rebrand. You’ll have noticed the new logo on the front cover of this issue, and there is new branding across our entire group.

This refreshed look is designed to bring our expanding portfolio in line as part of the newly created Professional Beauty Group, which is

now the umbrella company for Professional Beauty and its sister brands – World Spa & Wellness, Aesthetic Medicine, Hairdressers Journal (UK only) and Salon International.

The new approach was introduced to more clearly define what the company does, via the

events and content that span the breadth of the diverse beauty, spa, aesthetics and hairdressing industry.

These new logos will be used in these defined and complementary colours across all Professional Beauty Group events and communications moving forward.

online @ probeauty.co.za

AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSION MAGAZINE

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EXHIBITIONS

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EDUCATION

| AWARDS

www.probeauty.co.za

| ONLINE

Anti-ageing market set to hit $303.2bn by 2025 The global anti-ageing market will generate a revenue of $303.2 billion (R4,264 trillion) by 2025, driven by a growing geriatric population, a rise in technological advancements, an expanding medical tourism industry, and an increasing volume of anti-ageing cosmetic procedures.

This is according to a forecast by

ResearchAndMarkets.com (“AntiAging Market by Product - Global Market Size, Share, Development, Growth, and Demand Forecast, 2014-2025”), which identifies different types of products as being: anti-wrinkle, hair colour, UV absorbers, anti-stretch marks and other products.

The report states: “The demand for anti-wrinkle products is expected to observe the fastest growth, witnessing a CAGR of 8.4% during the forecast period. This growth is mainly driven by the increasing adoption of different types of dermal fillers and botulinum toxin injections for the treatment of wrinkles.”

Wellness to remake fashion industry In a recently released report on key wellness trends for 2019, the Global Wellness Summit (GWS) predicts that wellness fashion will move way past mere athleisure.

States the GWS report: “2019 will be the pivotal year for change, with a huge wave of sustainable, ethical, intelligent, healing, more inclusive and meaningful fashion on the rise… We’ll see radical innovation in sustainable textiles, with clothing/shoes made from recycled plastic bottles, algae,

mushrooms and food waste.

More vegan, cruelty-free fashion, with alternative-fur, alternative-leather, alternativeeverything collections that are trendier than the real thing.

“Fitness wearables will move seamlessly into clothing while self-regulating fabrics will adapt to all kinds of environmental and bodily changes…We’ll see antibacterial clothes that clean themselves, collagen-infused clothes that moisturise your

body all day, clothes that broadcast your mood, pajamas that help you sleep – even clothes weaving in ‘ancient wellness’, such as lines suffused with Ayurvedic medicinal plants.

And more brands will rip off the constricting ‘labels’, such as ‘plus-sized’ and ‘man/woman’ to create clothes that are truly inclusive around body shape and gender identity.” (Source: ‘GWS - Eight Wellness Trends for 2019’)

SA make-up artist creates eyeshadow palette Top professional South African make-up artist, Ryno Mulder, has created the Freak Unique palette, containing 16 eyeshadow shades in ultra-pigmented blendable colours.

The shades range from warm neutrals to bolds to mattes to shimmers, allowing endlessly possible looks.

Says Mulder: “In a world of soulless corporate giants, mass production and hype, I was looking for a cosmetics line with authenticity, audacity and a unique point of view. With my background as a beauty editor and makeover specialist, I decided to create my own range.”

Mulder notes that development of the range started in 2016 and was ‘a process of trial and error’.

He continues: “I knocked on many doors in various countries and was introduced to key players by a friend of mine who has her own make-up line in the US. I spent thousands on samples and travelled to the biggest East-meets-West

cosmetics trade fair in the world to learn about the industry first hand.

“It was in late 2018 that I took the leap, dipped into my savings and invested in stock. My entire first batch sold out in one week.”

online @ probeauty.co.za

News

9

Business Tips

10

ask

the experts

Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.

How do I go about ensuring that the therapists I hire are a good fit for my business and what sort of qualities should I look for?

First things first, namely education and skills. Your candidate must possess all the necessary qualifications related to the service. For example, if you are seeking a spa therapist, they must be skilled and qualified in all major body and skincare treatments. A national diploma or Level 2 NQF qualification is the minimum qualification desired. Training with an accredited institution, as well as cruise ship training, serve as reliable confirmation that a candidate can perform the standard spa treatments desired.

The candidate must present a certified copy of their qualifications, be it diploma or certificate. It has become evident that there are persons who falsify qualifications, so it’s important that you verify their qualification.

Then, look out for any additional skills training they have enrolled for and completed.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Practical evaluation It’s advisable to conduct a practical evaluation of the candidate’s skill to assess their skill, confidence, client care and results. If the candidate is still young and inexperienced, or the practical is not to your satisfaction, consider inviting them for a follow-up interview where you can re-evaluate at a later stage. Perhaps you could even consider the candidate for alternative employment and upskill them in your establishment.

Employers who offer their staff skills-training and upliftment have higher staff retention than those who do not.

first choice for a flagship team.

Phone each of the previous employers for a character reference and to see why the candidate left.

Use Google to locate the direct contact details of the spa/ salon manager or HR manager as some candidates list their friends as references. If no references are available, consider asking the candidate for a police clearance certificate too.

You may be inundated with applications for your new business, so you might consider outsourcing to an employment agency or a recruitment agency to shortlist candidates.

Lastly, trust your gut.

Check references When a candidate presents their application to you consider their employment history. How long do they maintain employment at a single employer? What are their reasons for leaving previous employers? A candidate who jumps around frequently may not be your

Miranda Forrester is the director and recruitment executive of Miranda Forrester Spa & Beauty Placements. She is an internationally qualified somatologist with more than a decade of experience in spa and beauty. recruitment@mfsbp.co.za

What are the skincare benefits of sleeping on satin pillowcases?

Being a polyester material, satin doesn’t absorb moisture the way natural fibres like cotton do. One of the many reasons your skin can look tired, dry and lined is due to a lack of hydration. Satin slips are famously known to be anti-ageing as sleeping on satin minimises facial lines, wrinkles and puffiness.

Another plus? Satin won’t absorb your expensive night creams and serums. It is also hypoallergenic and comes recommended by plastic surgeons after cosmetic surgery.

Doctors also suggest sleeping on satin for cancer patients during chemotherapy and radiotherapy.

Sleeping on satin helps your hair maintain its natural moisture; this helps prevents dry frizziness, split ends and breakage and can also help prevent hair loss. In addition, satin slips keep your hair looking shiny and make your blowouts last longer.

Satin slips are also really good for split ends; dry hair that tangles when sleeping (so therefore good for kids) and extensions or braided hair. They are also gentler on eyelashes as satin is less abrasive and more gentle that cotton, which can snag hair.

Chelle Lovatt is the founder of Dear Deer and distributes satin pillow slips to selected salons for retail. chelle@deardeer.co.za

Business Tips

11

It could never happen to you…right?

But what if it did?

The client’s skin reacts to a treatment, perhaps you forgot to do a patch test…maybe?

Or somehow damaged the cuticle during a nail treatment….

They get an infection and demand compensation.

Whatever the reason, these things happen and somebody has to pay!

Will your insurance cover this?

For full product indemnity insurance at an affordable price, contact Monique Joubert for a chat.

E: monique@probeauty.co.za

Peace of mind for you and your clients

13 Business Trends

Insider

Insider, our exclusive business round-up, polled beauty salons and spas in South Africa to track business in January 2019.

Insider Spa

The drought in Cape Town definitely affected treatment business in the City in January this year, with several spas reporting a drop in business as compared to the same time last year, albeit a small drop. A spa group in Gauteng reported that the amount of feet through the door was the same as January 2018 and that the increased turnover was the result of the annual price increase, while a Durban spa that experienced a small increase in business also attributed it to treatment price increases. One hotel spa identified less family travel in January 2019 and more group/tour series type bookings, where guests had full schedules with limited time available for spa treatments. Another spa group that experienced a slight drop believes the economic climate in South Africa played a role due to the increase in the cost of living and VAT. Retail business was also predominantly down for the same reason.

In line with our focus on male grooming trends in this issue of Professional Beauty, we asked you what the most popular treatments are with your male clients and not surprisingly, practically all spas polled responded that it’s massage.

Insider Salon

While the majority of spas that we polled have the advantage of being attached to hotels and/ or resorts and therefore immediate potential access to guests, salons do not enjoy that benefit. Thus, salons continue to be negatively affected by the country’s economy, political uncertainty and the recent spate of electricity outages courtesy of power utility, Eskom. Plus, salons experienced the usual post-festive season drop in business in January, with clients saving every possible rand just to get through the month after having spent so much on their holidays. Retail sales were also dismal.

As for the most popular treatments with your male clients, most of you said hair removal and deep cleansing facials. PB

The month in numbers

SALON 57

SPA 66 Average treatment room occupancy

Average treatment room occupancy

%

%

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN JANUARY 2019 COMPARE WITH JANUARY 2018?

58% Better

2% 40% SAME

WORSE

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN JANUARY 2019 COMPARE WITH JANUARY 2018?

35% Better

16% SAME

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN JANUARY 2019 COMPARE WITH JANUARY 2018?

19% 15% 66% Better

SAME

WORSE

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN JANUARY 2019 COMPARE WITH JANUARY 2018?

49%

10%

WORSE

Better

22%

68% WORSE

SAME

online @ probeauty.co.za

Spa Focus

14

Location,

location,

location

Situated a stone’s throw away from O.R Tambo Airport just outside of Johannesburg, the Evolve Wellness Spa @ The Premier Hotel was specifically designed as a relaxing sanctuary for weary travelers.

Joanna Sterkowicz finds out more.

O

ne of South Africa’s newest spa groups, Evolve was founded in September 2017

by Nicole van Coller, CA (SA) and qualified somatologist, Kim Franco.

In addition to the spa @ The Premier Hotel O.R. Tambo, Evolve also has a day spa situated within Boksburg’s The Terminal complex.

online @ probeauty.co.za

According to Franco, who is Evolve Spa Group’ spa manager, The Premier Hotel built the shell for the spa some years ago, but couldn’t find the perfect partner to operate it.

She continues: “Consequently, the spa remained unused for a couple of years. However, Evolve Spa Group’s management was then approached by the general manager at the time to furnish and operate the spa and the rest,

as they say, is history.

“The Premier Hotel offers value for money, ample amenities and its proximity to the airport makes it a great location. This was a wonderful opportunity for us as we have always wanted to create an oasis in the urban jungle.

Therefore our emphasis in terms of style and décor has been on natural and organic, with neutral tones, succulents and greenery. Despite being located near South Africa’s biggest and busiest airport, there is absolutely no external noise in the treatment rooms.”

The spa attracts a wide range of clientele, ranging from hotel guests to airport and cabin crew, travelers, local clientele, businesses in the area and even professional sports players. It boasts unusually long operating hours, namely from 9am to 9pm, seven days a week.

15

Franco, who has 15 years of experience and has worked at some of South Africa’s top spas, such as Life Day Spa and The Saxon Spa, is grateful to have fantastic facilities at her spa – five single rooms, one with a hyrobath, one with a shower, as well as a large couple’s suite with a double hydrobath specifically to suit honeymoon guests, or couples for special occasions.

She explains: “We also have our hammam (known as Turkish steam baths), a rasul, a relaxation area that includes a dining area, a manicure & pedicure room, lounge and gym. While hammams are not exclusive in South Africa to our spa only, ours is a very special edition and we have developed a signature treatment, known as the Evolving Hammam. This comprises a full body cleansing ritual with citrus exfoliation, with steam used to stimulate circulation.

We believe this is a must for all spa-goers. We find that a relaxing hydrobath is a fantastic addition to any massage as it stimulates circulation and provides therapeutic water massage. It is a wonderful way for couples to connect. We offer three different salts and a detox stress or muscle relief, which provide a calming foundation of relaxation before you start your massage.”

Spa Focus

Facilities

Spa at a glance Opened: 1 May 2018 Owners: Evolve Spa Group (Nicole van Coller and Kim Franco) Size: 320 square meters (excluding outside patio area and gym) Number of treatment rooms: five single rooms, one couple’s suite Facilities: relaxation area with dining area, manicure & pedicure room, lounge and gym Hydro facilities: hammam, rasul, single hydrobath, double hydrobath Number of full-time therapists: six Brands: Lamelle, Zein Obagi Thalgo, Cspa, Spalicious, Trugel, Kinetics, Wondernail

Aesthetics on the side Evolve believes that beauty and spa go hand in hand, which is why the spa offers aesthetic treatments such as microneedling, botulinum toxin and peels. In addition it is looking to branch out into laser therapy in the future.

“Aesthetic treatments provide instant results, which most guests want these days,” states Franco. “We have an aesthetics doctor who provides all of the aesthetic treatments and prior booking is essential.

The spa also has a permanent make-up partner. We have a wide variety of clients and some prefer beauty with a pamper (such as a pedicure) to a full spa experience. I’ve noticed that business men and women prefer using our luxury facilities, which offer a wide variety of services that can accommodate their lack of time.

“Our therapists are trained to have a deep respect for the guest’s time and needs, be it aesthetics or a relaxation treatment. I am extremely selective in the HR process and continually recruit for world-class staff who will offer Evolve guests a memorable experience.”

While retail is important at Evolve, the main focus as a new spa is on organic treatment growth. PB

online @ probeauty.co.za

Business Tips

16

A first-class service If you have team members who aren’t meeting clients’ expectations, you need to find the right way to help them change, writes Hellen Ward.

I

’ve always been fond of an analogy. I often find that using a comparison to make something relevant really helps in getting my managerial message across succinctly.

I was recently dealing with a performance-related issue with one of my team. This person had been with the company for nearly 20 years, yet their performance was sliding. By comparing it not just to the previous year, but tracking back, it was evident that they were in a downward spiral.

online @ probeauty.co.za

I’ve always been fond of an analogy. I often find that using a comparison to make something relevant really helps in getting my managerial message across succinctly.

Taking price increases into account over the time periods, it became abundantly clear that they weren’t performing to their price point and title compared to their peers. Reviewing the data, we were both in agreement that something was going seriously wrong.

I’d highlighted this several times but found I couldn’t really get this team member to truly own to their poor performance. Taking the “do you want to be right or do you want to be happy?” approach, I’d let this slip through

the net and, to be honest, had in effect given up on trying to get them to see the light.

Fair comparison Then I had a bit of a lightbulb moment. I used an analogy that finally hit the spot. Imagine you are taking the holiday of a lifetime, I told my team member.

Imagine you’ve saved up for, looked forward to, and planned this trip for months. You’re flying first class for the very first time.

Think how excited you would be. Imagine you are treating the person you love to this amazing experience.

What made you spend the money to go first class? After all, you’re on the same plane as the people in the cheap seats; you’re not going to get there any quicker. You’re still going to experience turbulence. In effect, you’re going to get the same flight experience. But of course, you’re not.

So, now imagine you’re told, “Sorry, we haven’t got any champagne today – is prosecco all right?” Or, “Sorry, we’ve run out of linen napkins and champagne flutes, so you’ve got a disposable serviette and a plastic cup.”

Of course, none of this would be acceptable. Yet my team member has been charging first-class prices and delivering economy service for some time. And it was showing in their figures; all the main KPIs were in freefall: request rate, occupancy rate, turnover, average bill, retail sales.

All down.

Skill levels So, what was the eureka moment? What finally made them see the light? “I’m happy for you to deliver economy service if you refuse to upskill,” I told them. “But, no longer will you be charging first-class

prices. No longer can I market you as such. I will demote your price level and title in accordance with your choice of service offering.”

The team member was horrified. This was their Achilles heel. The result was a complete U-turn, improved service, more attention to detail, increased technical expertise, re-training; finally, they got it.

As managers of people, we have a duty of care to find the individual incentive for every team member – that one motivational element that can lead to long-term behavioral change and increased performance. PB

Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London’s Sloane Square and chair of Trailblazers for the hairdressing sector. hellen@professionalbeauty.co.uk

Business Tips

17

Male Grooming

18

Talking to...

Olivier Bonnefoy To coincide with Professional Beauty’s annual special feature on male grooming, Joanna Sterkowicz speaks to Olivier Bonnefoy, founder of the Gentlemen’s Tonic award-winning luxury spa and grooming concept about the growth of the male market in the UK and internationally.

What changes have you seen in the male grooming market since you opened your first Gentlemen’s Tonic salon in Mayfair, London, back in 2004?

At that time, the male grooming market in the UK was worth about £700 million (R13,083 billion) in services and another £900 million (R16,819 billion) in products, excluding shaving products. New research reveals the combined market is worth closer to £3.5 billion (R65,422 billion) now, with services accounting for about £1.5 billion (R28,024 billion) of this. What is telling is that almost half (47%) of young men polled between the ages of 18 and 30 have reported having had some sort of beauty salon or spa treatment in the past 12 months, that’s already up from 33% in 2015. Our partner spas report that they’re seeing more and more men through their doors each year and they’re desperately

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We quickly realised that if we could develop a platform to showcase our products, use them in treatments and services, and develop further products with help from customers, we would have an incredible advantage and could be at the forefront of the industry. looking at ways to market to even more men, as well as to develop protocols and programmes specific to them.

So it’s an incredibly hot sector at the moment.

What are the reasons behind this incredible growth in the market?

Education and advice have been the main drivers in developing the male grooming market in the UK, as well as in other markets overseas over the last 15 to 20 years.

Originally, this was done through titles including Men’s Health, GQ and Esquire, followed by a litany of other male-focused titles that began to devote more and more column inches to male grooming advice and tips. Laterally, online influencers, bloggers and brands have become the main drivers, able to communicate to a far wider and more diverse community.

For instance, some of the male grooming and spa influencers that Gentlemen’s Tonic works with have literally hundreds of thousands of followers who are able to avail themselves of daily updates on the latest skincare trends. So male grooming has very much gone mainstream.

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Yes, thanks to changing attitudes towards male grooming, as well as the fact that the industry now realises that male guests are an integral part of their bottom line.

However, much more can still be done and men are increasingly looking out for businesses that are catering to their needs in terms of ambience, treatment offering and product choice.

This has resulted in a continued rise in the number of male only grooming establishments opening up.

How long did it take for your first salon to catch on in the market?

Six months after we opened, we already had 3,000 clients on our books. Aside from tapping into a phenomenal market, what was key was that our initial marketing was geared not at men but at women, as we believed that wives and girlfriends in particular, were going to be the

main driver to get men into the salon. We were right!

Before Gentlemen’s Tonic Mayfair opened, there wasn’t much for the discerning man to get in terms of services, just a few barbershops offering an express facial with a wet shave, which consisted primarily of drugstore-bought cleansers. Beauty salons were beginning to see growth from male clients requesting waxing hair removal treatments, but many were not yet at a stage to be offering a lot of grooming services that were specifically male focused.

Apart from Mayfair, London, where else can one find Gentlemen’s Tonic salons?

We have another location in development in London slated to open in 2020 and we are also in Dubai, Abu Dhabi, New Delhi, Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur and Mexico City. In the next 12 months, we will welcome new locations in Riyadh, Kuwait City, Shanghai and Macau, which we’re very excited about. The company also runs various operations under its brand for clients, including Cathay Pacific First Class and various 5-star hotels.

Are you ever likely to open a salon in South Africa, given that the Gentlemen’s Tonic product line is available here?

Male Grooming

Do you think the ‘stigma’ that used to be associated with men visiting beauty salons has now more or less disappeared?

We were so happy to have entered the South African market in 2018, in partnership with our local partner and distributor, The Spa Warehouse. And, we’ve been amazed by the success we’ve experienced in such a short period of time, working with some of the best businesses in the country. In my opinion, South Africa is almost unrivalled when it comes to its spa therapists and operators and therefore it has been great to see how well received the Gentlemen’s Tonic

Men are increasingly looking out for businesses that are catering to their needs in terms of ambience, treatment offering and product choice. >

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Male Grooming

20 some packaging alterations.

However, these brands did have one critical advantage – they had deep pockets for advertising and promotion. Therefore, we quickly realised that if we could develop a platform to showcase our products, use them in treatments and services, and develop further products with help from customers, we would have an incredible advantage and could be at the forefront of the industry.

How soon after your first salon opened did you launch the product line? product line has been, particularly its professional and retail Advanced Derma-Care ranges.

So we would love to investigate possibly opening a location in the near future in South Africa as we clearly see a market there.

You’ve been quoted as saying that in terms of grooming, men want quick results, whereas women have entire routines for skincare. Please comment.

Most women have generally been looking after their skin since they were in their early teens and taught different skincare regimes from sisters, mothers or friends.

Consequently, most women have a daily or weekly routine which is second nature to them. They have also been instructed through magazines and blogs that change doesn’t come overnight and that

there’s a need for both work and investment. However, most men are either new to this, selftaught, or effectively building their whole regime around shaving. Plus there’s perhaps a little less patience in men. While researching the development of Gentlemen’s Tonic’s Advanced Derma-Care range, it became clear that our clients wanted fast results with little effort.

We therefore realised that we needed intense ingredients that would offer immediate results.

As an example, our Hero Peptide Serum is one of our best sellers for this very reason – it results in a noticeable instant lifting and firming effect on the skin with very little effort, which our clients absolutely adore.

When you first conceived Gentlemen’s Tonic, did you already know then that you wanted to create your own product line?

When we first came up with the idea for Gentlemen’s Tonic, the development of products was very much central to the plan.

However, we were conscious that there were no luxury male-only grooming or professional spa ranges in existence. Instead, the market was filled with female ‘masstige’ and prestige retail brands that were beginning to launch men’s lines, where the only difference between them was basically the smell and

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Our flagship Mayfair establishment, offering barbershop, spa, grooming and lifestyle services and treatments, opened in 2004 and we immediately began research on our core range of products that same year. Following four years of intense research and development, we brought out our initial grooming range in 2008, consisting at the time of eight products. This has now blossomed into over 75 products divided into three different ranges – our core Babassu & Bergamot grooming range, our advanced Cosmeceutical Derma-Care retail line, and our award-winning Professional Spa range that is used by some of the world’s most prestigious hotels and spas.

I believe that you try to be as natural as possible in terms of product ingredients?

Natural skincare products contain nourishing antioxidant ingredients that improve the skin’s health rather than chemicals that can potentially cause free radicals that can further age your skin.

In the long run, our customers will reap the benefits of using natural skincare. We only use natural plant derived ingredients and preservatives where possible, free from synthetic materials and harmful chemical additives such as parabens, animal extracts, DEAs etc. PB

Male Grooming

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MEN

Jared Hines, co-owner of Hines and Harley, the two-time winner of the Professional Beauty Men’s Grooming Salon of the Year Award, pinpoints what men should look out for with regards to skincare and grooming products.

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irstly, it’s important to note the differences between male skin and that of females.

Men’s skin differs in certain aspects, such as hair growth, sweat rate, oil production, pH and other factors.

For example, until the age of 50, men’s trans-epidermal water loss is significantly lower than that of women of the same age.

That means the skin’s barrier function is better in men and they consequently have less of a tendency for dryness.

However, sebum (oil) production in men is also higher than in women and stays stable with increasing age, whereas sebum production in women progressively decreases with age. This means that men have a higher tendency towards acne, while women have more of a tendency for dry skin. Women also tend to have a higher skin surface pH than men, which may further contribute to impaired barrier function and dry skin.

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Stronger and healthier For all the above reasons, men’s skin tends to be stronger and healthier than women’s, except for the beard area, which may become irritated from incorrect shaving. That means that male skin usually tolerates a higher concentration of potentially irritating active ingredients, such as Vitamin A, than female skin.

Generally speaking though, both benefit from the same type of active ingredients, such as antioxidant serum and SPF in the morning; and a repair cream containing a collagen simulator in the evening.

There might be certain more gender specific concerns that warrant specialised products.

Men, for example, have a higher tendency for mechanical irritation

from shaving and of course might suffer with ingrown hair and folliculitis in the beard area, which will benefit from specialised products preventing these issues.

Women, on the other hand, have a higher risk of hormonerelated irregular pigmentation, so female skincare products often contain more skin lightening ingredients than those targeted at men. However, if a male client comes to see you with irregular pigmentation, you should treat them the same way as for a woman’s skin.

Major difference There is a major difference between male and female clients; in my professional experience men tend to be less compliant when it comes to skincare

23 Male Grooming

and much prefer using fewer products, compared to women, who are usually quite happy to layer several products diligently.

With this in mind, I try to select products for my male clients which are as multi-functional as possible, with the aim to limit the number of products they have to apply each day.

Also, do not try and get a first time male client to take on an entire range of products. I have found that you will have much more success if you start them off on one or two products, usually a cleanser and a daily moisturiser.

Men also often prefer their skincare to be light in consistency, quick to absorb and non-greasy, while many women, especially those with drier skin, prefer richer and heavier creams.

Because men in general tend to be out in the elements more than women, their skin needs extra protection.

Over the years I have found that the vast majority of good cosmeceutical skincare products are actually perfectly fine to use for both men and women, especially if they are nonscented. Many of the specialised male grooming lines on the market are, in my opinion, more of a branding exercise than a true biological necessity.

However, our male clients like ‘personalised’ products and like to know that they are using a men’s product.

What makes men’s products different?

While basic skincare rules apply to both men and women, there are a few important details that men’s grooming products need to address, the first being shaving. The best face wash for men should focus on a man’s

>

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Male Grooming

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If your male clients don’t use facial exfoliators, please focus on getting them on one, as exfoliation is probably the single most important step in any skincare routine.

other products. Exfoliating once a week can significantly reduce men’s outbreaks. It will leave your client’s facial skin that has been shaved regularly. Part of the issue is that men have thick skin and lots of hair follicles, which makes it easy to run into problems with ingrown hairs, razor burn, and skin irritations.

Men’s skin should not be dried out by their face wash. Instead of throwing off your skin’s pH – like most soap bars do – it should leave their skin hydrated. Furthermore, it must not cause tight skin or closed pores, both of which are likely to cause skin irritation.

Brands that focus on results develop facial exfoliators for men with men’s shaving routines in mind. A good exfoliator helps move hairs up and away from the pores.

This prevents ingrown hairs and gives you a closer, cleaner shave.

Also recommend to your clients that they shave with the grain, this is another mistake men make as they believe shaving against the grain will give them a closer shave, when all it does is cause irritation to the skin. If they are using a sharp blade and good quality products together with heat and water, they will get a close shave without any of the problems.

Outdoor exposure Because men in general tend to be out in the elements more than women, their skin needs extra protection. A good quality face

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moisturiser for men will assist in giving that extra protection. It should contain less oil since men already produce plenty of sebum.

And it should have additional ingredients to soothe the skin after a shave.

The outdoors, and especially the South African sun, take their toll on men’s hair too. I advise my male clients to keep their hair clean and hydrated with a good hair care routine. This should include both shampoo for men and hair conditioner for men.

Make sure that your male clients are using good quality hair styling products and steering clear of any mineral oils.

Adult acne Since men produce more oil on their skin, they are more likely to suffer from adult acne. Women’s creams and cleansers have lighter ingredients that won’t bother their sensitive skin. But men need stronger ingredients for deep cleansing to prevent excessive acne.

Many men are still not exfoliating. If your male clients don’t use facial exfoliators, please focus on getting them on one, as exfoliation is probably the single most important step in any skincare routine and will enhance the benefits of all the

skin fresh, clean, and bright.

Major mistake Men often make a huge mistake that leads to all kinds of skin problems – they don’t take care of their skin.

Men have thicker skin than most women; men have more collagen; and men have better skin hydration.

So, in theory, men’s skin should look about 15 years younger than women of the same age. But most guys don’t take skincare for men seriously and they pay the price. They end up with dull, tired skin by the time they’re in the late 30s.

Get you male clients to break from the mould. Ge them to take care of their skin. Get them on a face wash, exfoliator and moisturiser to stay clean, hydrated, and acne free. Help them improve their shave routine and always follow up with a good quality aftershave after every shave.

Jared Hines became a qualified aesthetician and somatologist in 2008.He has worked at leading South African spas, including Mount Grace and the Spa at the Saxon Hotel, where he won the World Luxury Spa Awards African Spa Manager of the Year in 2015.

His own business, Hines and Harley Men’s Grooming Lounge, won the Professional Beauty Award for Best Men’s Grooming Salon 2017 and 2018. Hines also won the Best Salon / Spa Manager for 2017. PB

25 Product Focus – Male Grooming

Man of the moment

Concurrent with the steady rise of serious interest among men in personal grooming, an abundance of products specifically targeted to this demographic have appeared on the market.

Masculine ideals Part of Beauté Pacifique’s new Masculinity range, the AntiAge Crème for Men contains two super effective types of Vitamin A, in a squalane delivery system that makes the vitamins penetrate so deeply that the skin’s own cells can regenerate the lost collagen/ elastin structure in full depth, appearing as a younger skin.

073 053 8830

It’s a tonic!

The Gentlemen’s Tonic Advanced Derma-Care cosmeceutical range was designed exclusively for men to preserve the well-being of their skin. This range uses powerful, natural active ingredients, including a carefully selected combination of peptides and amino acids, free from synthetics and harmful chemicals.

021 863 0373

Potent active Specially tailored for males, Babor Men is based on the powerful active, Taurec Complex, which is formulated with taurine, hops and Siberian ginseng. This unique combination of active ingredients ensures greater vitality and energy because male skin has its own special demands.

011 467 0110 > online @ probeauty.co.za

Product Focus – Male Grooming

26 Meteorite extract

Number 6

Anesi’s Man Secret Serum is a unique youth elixir, formulated for the first time with meteorite extract, with a light texture and invigorating effect. It re-densifies the skin to diminish depth and number of wrinkles; reduces signs of fatigue by revitalising the skin; plumps to prevent sagging; strengthens skin elasticity; and seals the skin barrier.

The SIX Man Men’s Shaving Face Wash is a deep cleanser with beard softening properties for a smooth and gentle shave, with aloe to act as an anti-inflammatory.

Suitable for all skin types, it is soothing and healing on the skin. Ingredients include wheat germ oil, jojoba and nettle.

011 791 4027

011 312 7840

Crafty care The Hines & Harley craft products for shaving, beard and moustache care combine the brand’s aromatherapy expertise and its passion for beards, moustaches and male skin. Its beard wash, beard oil, beard balm, beard moisturiser, moustache wax, shaving oil and aftershave balm are made on the Hines & Harley premises with coconut oil and aloe oil.

079 417 1424

Optimum treatment From Phytomer Homme, the Aqua Optimal Face and Eyes Soothing Moisturiser is the men’s essential postshaving ally. Its non-oily texture immediately soothes and appeases burning sensations, while delivering intense and lasting hydration.

The complexion is radiant and the skin is ideally hydrated and protected against environmental damage.

011 486 4904

Outstanding oils Packed with powerful plant oils and vitamins, the Red Dane Skincare for Men range includes Soothing Shave Oil, Two-Phase Nourishing Oil for beard and face, Brightening Facial Oil for improved skin tone and Rejuvenating Night Oil, an anti-ageing moisturiser.

The products are made locally by Red Dane.

084 744 2906

Male-centricity Pevonia Spa Care for Him was scientifically developed to address the distinct differences of male skin. The products treat razor burn, ingrown hair, skin sensitivity, loss of elasticity, visible lines & wrinkles and dehydration. Included in the range are Aqua-Gel Foaming Cleanser, Easy-Glide Shaving Emulsion and Soothing After Shaving Balm.

011 238 7080

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On show in KZN

In addition to exciting and informative business seminars and nail workshops, Professional Beauty Durban (2 June – Moses Mabhida Stadium) offers an excellent opportunity to network with like-minded industry professionals and showcases the latest trends and technologies.

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t the time of going to press on 4 March, the following exhibitors had already confirmed their participation.

APS American Piercing Systems APS will be demonstrating to salon owners how offering an easy to use, extremely hygienic STUDEX® ear, nose or belly piercing service can increase both income and foot traffic into their business.

guided by an ethical business approach. It will launch a brand new product and offer discounts on selected products.

Ebony Braids & Hair Pieces Ebony has supplied quality, affordable hair accessories since 1994. A leader in hair pieces and accessories in the African market, its range includes various colours, lengths and styles.

Flamingo Nail Factory

Best Lasers Pty Ltd Best Lasers is the sole SubSaharan Africa distributors of Alma Lasers International.

It highlights and implements clients’ aesthetic technology investments.

Flamingo Nail Factory is a professional UV/LED soak off gel nail manufacturer in South Africa.

All gel polish at 50% discount; buy a minimum of 10 bottles and get a free top coat.

Bio Sculpture KZN

Nail Therapy A wide range of bespoke on trend nail art supplies, SAAHSPrecognised training, and luxurious spa and body products will be on offer. Meet and greet ‘The Nail Art Boss’. 30% off certain merchandise.

Bio Sculpture provides quality products and professional training, empowering nail technicians to offer healthy and fashionable nail care systems,

Pure Perfection

Neutriherbs Neutriherbs is a natural skincare brand that is seriously making a difference in people’s lives when it comes to skin concerns.

Pure Perfection is the sister company of Ebony Braids & Hair Pieces and specialises in only 100% Remy Human Hair Extensions, as well as remover tape and leave-in conditioner.

Red Velvet gel nail manufacturing New products include cat eye, glow in the dark, temperature changing colours, pollygel and care gel.

Special offers and discounts will be offered.

Worldwide Distribution Center FZCO This UAE-based distribution company represents companies such as Himalaya Herbals, Unilever, Imperial Dax, Namaste Laboratories, Luster Products, Dr Miracles, Fruit of the Earth, WIPRO-UNZA, Strength of Nature Co, and J Strickland, among others.

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Professional Beauty Durban Preview

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Gravity Black Mud Mask Using one of the most advanced, unique and innovative techniques, Black Pearl has created for you the Gravity Black Mud Mask inspired by the force of gravity. The mask directly infuses the skin with active ingredients including vitamins, pure oils and plant extracts vital to healthy appearance and even tone. These active ingredients accelerate cellular dynamics and effectively exfoliate dead cells. The mask puriďŹ es and cleanses the skin without drying and prepares it for maximum absorption of moisture and nourishment. It gives the skin a clear, radiant and even tone, a ďŹ rm and supple look and a silky smooth texture.

w w w. w e a r e b l a c k p e a r l . c o m | f a c e b o o k . c o m / w e a r e b l a c k p e a r l online @ probeauty.co.za

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Treatment Review

A manly treatment Alois Sajanga is invited to try the new Bespoke Men’s Treatment from Black Pearl.

’d never had a facial at all before experiencing the Black Pearl Bespoke Men’s Treatment, so my journey into facials began with a luxurious, high end brand.

This particular facial was created by Dr Michelle Roberts and Faaizah Abram of Black Pearl South Africa.

It was Abram who performed my treatment at the Crystal Clear Skin Care Clinic in Parkwood, Johannesburg. She said: “The men’s grooming market has really been growing over the past few years, both in South Africa and internationally. Men have become more aware of skincare.”

Abram commenced the treatment by massaging the new 24K Gold Milk Cleanser into my skin. There are actual gold flakes in this cleanser, gold having strong anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory properties.

“This is very beneficial for men’s skin because they shave daily, which can cause razor bumps and ingrown hairs,” explained Abram. “It’s also useful for treating blackheads and papules. Next, I’m going to apply

our new Men’s Pre-Shave Gel Shampoo, which softens the hairs thus ensuring a closer shave as well as a good cleanse. This is an ideal home care product as men can use it before they shave and also to wash their hair in the shower.”

Black Pearl’s 24K Gold Toner, which also has gold particles suspended in the liquid, was then applied.

“We use this product for men’s facials as it has a high quantity of witch hazel – a really effective astringent,” stated Abram.

Next came the Pearl Peeling Mask – this has the highest concentration of pearls in any skincare product. According to Abram, pearls are ideally suited to exfoliation as they are perfectly rounded spheres that don’t irritate the skin.

While the mask took effect, Abram performed a hand and arm massage. Next came the Black Pearl Prestige Capsules, which can be used with LED therapy to enhance penetration. These

capsules have Vitamins A, C and E, as well as Omegas 3, 6 and 9, and function as a skin booster.

This was followed by the Presitge G Mask, containing mud from the Dead Sea, as well as the finest Japanese oils. Once the mask dried, Abram used a small magnetic stone wrapped in tissue to draw out the natural occurring minerals in the mud, to rid the skin of impurities.

Once this process had been completed, Abram performed a massage with two semi-precious stones. This stimulates the Japanese oils to penetrate deeper into the skin, while simultaneously draining the toxins for optimal functioning of skin cells.

My treatment ended with the application of Black Pearl’s Collagen Serum, followed by the Collagen Day Cream.

This facial was a truly luxurious experience and my skin felt really clean and refreshed. PB Contact Black Pearl SA: 071 777 7157

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31 Treatment Review

Riding the (plasma) wave Dawn Botha takes action against her crow’s feet and frown lines by booking in for a facial performed with the SIX Aesthetix Plasma Wave device.

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’ve always had very dry skin and with our harsh and sunny climate, have developed deep crow’s feet and frown lines. My therapist, Kym Stafford, who owns the Dolce Vita Beauty Centre in Randpark Ridge, had previously performed microneedling on my face to promote collagen production and now prescribed a plasma facial.

“I’m going to use the SIX Aesthetix Plasma Wave device to tighten the skin around the eyes and on your forehead,” explained Stafford. “The device creates a plasma arc by ionising gasses in the air; this arc connects to the skin, causing a micro-wound that prompts fibroblasts to produce new collagen. The treatment can last for up to a year, and you can perform a full, non-surgical facelift in three hours.”

She explained that the plasma tip of the device never actually touches the skin and is placed in

pattern’ on the treatment area with the plasma tip of the device.

“Each time the plasma arc is generated, a small brown dot of carbon residue that looks like a

the ‘spark gap’ (i.e. 1mm above the skin).

To commence the treatment, Stafford thoroughly cleansed my skin, first with SIX Sensational Skincare Flawless Cleansing Oil to remove my make-up, followed

by SIX Glycolic 8% Foaming Face Wash. My skin was then toned with SIX Soothing Lotion.

Next, Stafford applied a numbing cream on my face called MediNumb, which contains 11% lidocaine. After 20 minutes, Stafford spritzed my face with sanitising spray and explained that she would draw a ‘reduction

freckle forms on the skin. After a day, the residue falls off and is replaced by a tiny scab,” stated Stafford.

The feeling of the plasma arc is like a light pin prick and quite bearable. Stafford treated the crow’s feet around my eyes and decided to perform a blepharoplasty (i.e. eyelid lift) to diminish the excess skin on my upper eyelids. She then worked on the frown lines between my brows.

As the SIX Aesthetix Plasma Wave device is ideally suited to removing skin tags, I asked Stafford to remove one on my neck. It was an immediate process and there was no mark at all.

Post treatment, Stafford removed the excess carbon residue and applied the SIX O2 Serum to instantly calm the area.

Vitamin C Moisturising Cream was then applied, followed by Broad Spectrum Sun Protection SPF50+.

She advised me to stay out of the sun and keep my skin perfectly clean and make-up free.

After eight days the scabs fell off and I was delighted with the results – my crow’s feet had definitely diminished, my upper lids had tightened and my frown lines had faded. I can’t wait for my next treatment. PB Contact SIX Aesthetix: 011 312 7840

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Skincare & Make-up

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A two-way street Following on from the tradition set by tinted moisturisers, today a number of professional brands are combining both make-up and skincare in a single product.

Professional Beauty looks at this growing trend.

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inted moisturisers have been around for a while and the fairly recent introduction into the market of BB creams (a combination of moisturiser and foundation); CC creams (a combination of moisturiser and colour correcting pigments) and DD creams (tinted sunscreens) have created the ‘Alphabet Creams’ category.

Skincare benefits are now also being added to other make-up products, such as lipsticks, for example.

Says professional make-up artist Ryno Mulder: “When shopping around for Alphabet Creams or other make-up products offering skincare benefits, it’s important to consider what these benefits actually are. My rule of thumb is to see how high up on the ingredients list the active ingredient is. The higher up in the list, the more of the ingredient is present in the formula..

“I am all for make-up which is non-toxic to skin, to the environment and better yet, which will improve your skin beyond just camouflaging it. However, from a professional make-up artist perspective, it’s important to note that skincare products have to be used regularly to generate an improvement of the skin, so the once-off use of a makeup product containing skincare on a client won’t improve their appearance. I look forward to advancements in skincare technology that will create instantaneous skin improvement during make-up application.”

5-in-1 formulation Beauty Balms or BB Creams were originally developed as a perfect post-procedure cream used to target, hydrate, prime and camouflage the skin, according to DermaFix MD, Ursula Volbrecht.

She continues: “The DermaFix BB Cream is a 5-in-1 formulation that is enriched with Vitamin E and soy peptides. It moisturises and smoothes dehydrated skin, primes

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and perfects the skin’s surface, camouflages and corrects skin tone, whilst protecting the skin against the harmful effects of UV radiation.

“We have also formulated the DermaFix LipFix to include cocoa butter for skin healing benefits, mango seed butter for antioxidant protection and nourishment, and brassica alba sprout extract for gradual lip plumping benefits.

More than just a lip balm, DermaFix LipFix has been designed to plump, protect and perfect the lip area.”

Volbrecht notes that DermaFix Dermal Repair is an ideal primer for make-up, as it helps to form a breathable seal that assists to achieve a smooth and flawless make-up finish. “It is an exclusive

multi-vitamin facial treatment supplying the skin with Vitamins A, C and E, as well as beneficial minerals and pure essential oils.”

Anti-ageing Babor’s Ageid make-up collection has impressive anti-ageing effects and ultra-modern textures, ranging from rich creams through to feather-light serum foundations.

The brand’s Ageid Serum Foundation has a fourfold anti-ageing effect and is simultaneously ultra-light and moisturising. It is available in four shades.

Also from Babor are the Perfect Finish Foundation, Deluxe Foundation and Mattifying Foundation.

Tinted sunscreen Distributed by Genop Healthcare, Heliocare 360º Cushion Compact SPF 50+ is a full-spectrum, photoprotective, physical makeup sunscreen in an innovative cushion format. It is easy to apply and blends into the skin to protect against UVB, UVA, visible light (including HEVL) and Infrared radiation. It also covers imperfections and post-procedure redness, leaving the skin with an even, natural, matte finish.

Key ingredients include

Fernblock FC, a potent antioxidant from a tropical fern (Polypodium leucotomos) native to Central America and rich in ferulic and caffeic acids. This unique and potent complex is able to provide efficient photoimmuneprotection, neutralise free radicals and repair damaged DNA in the cells with its unique repairing properties in the form of Roxisomes.

The added combination of Vitamins C + E strengthen its photoprotector action. It also includes the Bioshield System (biomimetic melanin, which mimics melanocytes and doubles the strength of your own melanin).

Skin-loving make-up The focus of UK make-up brand, Mii Cosmetics, has been to offer professional skincare-quality makeup direct to spas and salons.

Says Janine Janse Van Rensburg of distributor, Poise Brands: “Mii’s creation has been inspired by the wants and wishes of beauty spa and salon devotees, as well as a team of make-up artists and skincare experts “Thus, Mii combines the finest ingredients, unrivalled expertise and effortless application. There are five different foundations, a 100% pure mineral line and an enticing selection of wearable shades for eyes, lips, cheeks and complexion.” >

Skincare & Make-up

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Skincare & Make-up

34 Colour correction The C.C. cream SPF30+ from pHformula is a moisturising, protecting and active formulation designed to improve skin health, prevent damage and protect against UV. Beneficial ingredients such as Vitamin C and retinol ensure that sun damage is reversed while the broad spectrum UVA and UVB filters protect against future sun damage. It is availalbe in four shades – from light to dark plus.

Also from pHformula, the Compact foundation SPF50+ offers powerful protection against the sun and pollution, while treating the skin with Carthamus tinctorius seed oil. This is an anti-microbial, offering acne improvement. It is also an anti-oxidant, providing ageing prevention as well as brightening for the improvement of hyperpigmented skin or uneven skin tone.

Hydration Thalgo’s Illuminating Multi-Perfection BB Creams are available in three shades - Ivory, Natural and Golden – and were formulated to hydrate the skin for 24 hours.

They are ideal for women looking for a light coverage product which moisturises and adds radiance, and at the same time protects the skin with SPF15.

Other skincare benefits of the range include refining the skin’s texture, as well as evening out skin tone and blurring imperfections.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Illuminating range

Created by Australian supermodel, Jessica Hart, Luma Beauty is a curated range of multi-use products based on the illuminating properties of crushed pearl. Hart’s vision was based on enhancing natural beauty and the range was designed to create a luminous and healthy glow on the skin.

Luma make-up uses naturally sourced ingredients such as crushed pearl powder, ethically sourced mica, moisture-rich hyaluronic acid and jojoba oil.

Minerals GloSkinBeauty (formerly Glominerals), available from Logica Beauty Supplies, is a clinically advanced mineral make-up that covers and helps correct skin imperfections.

Positioned as skincare with colour, every GloSkinBeauty product is noncomedogenic to ensure that skin can breathe. This helps inhibit the potential for bacteria to become trapped in pores and as GloSkinBeauty pure pigment formula contains no talc, less make-up is needed to achieve the necessary coverage.

Anti-inflammatory ingredients, including green tea extract, zinc and Vitamin C, help improve the appearance and condition of acne and rosacea-prone skin. All products include the powerful antioxidant blend of vitamins A, C and E to help protect the skin from free radicals.

Sheer tint Dermalogica’s Sheer Tint Light SPF20 is a lightlytinted hydrating treatment that provides an all-day sheer wash of colour.

Natural, light-diffusing iron oxides provide translucent colour for radiant skin, while broad spectrum sunscreens shield against damaging UV rays. Hydrolysed pearl amino acids, hydrating cross-linked hyaluronic acid and antioxidant walnut seed extracts help improve skin texture and reduce the appearance of fine dehydration lines. PB

Aesthetic Devices

35

Investing in machines

vs ROI

Global trends reveal that consumers are increasingly seeking machine-based aesthetic facial and body treatments. Professional Beauty looks at how to approach investing in such devices.

C

linical results from spa, salon or aesthetic clinics are becoming a priority in consumers’ desired outcomes, according to Anelia van der Merwe from Aim Aesthetic Holdings SA. She continues: “If you have already an established a client base with more than a hundred clients, you are ready to look at investing in equipment with the

Factors such as device costs, treatment revenue, warranties, overheads and successful marketing all contribute, but the biggest factor is finance cost.

aim of improving your clinical results and taking your income to the next level.

“Expectations can be met and exceeded with non-invasive technologies that, chosen correctly, will be the best investment an entrepreneur can make.”

Calculated moves In order for a salon or aesthetic clinic to calculate ROI (return on investment), Van der Merwe

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Aesthetic Devices

36 offers the following advice (as sourced from an accountant): “Calculate the net income per treatment by subtracting the costs from the price of the particular treatment. Costs are made up of consumables and pro rata allocation of therapist’s salary and other running costs (e.g. rent and electricity). For instance, if the treatment price is R1,000 and the costs are R500, then the nett income is R500.”

Next, determine the number of potential treatments per day, week, month and year. If you have a five-day work week and no work in December, then if you do two treatments per day that equals 10 per week and 40 per month, equalling 440 per year.

Says Van der Merwe: “The number of treatments multiplied by the nett income per treatment gives us the total nett income over a given period. For example: 440 treatments per year x R500 equals R220,000.

“The annual nett income minus depreciation on machine divided by the cost of the machine gives us the percentage ROI. For example: cost of machine = R500,000; depreciation of four years = R125,000 per year; and annual nett income R220,000.

This means that the ROI is R220,000 – R125,000 = R95,000 / R500,000 = 19%.”

Subscription model Thyrza Price of Venus Concept Africa believes that the business model behind a non-invasive aesthetic device is key.

“Factors such as device costs, treatment revenue, warranties, overheads and successful marketing all contribute, but the biggest factor is finance cost. When paying interest, ask yourself: who is doing the work and who is making the money?

What if you want to migrate to other technology, without penalty? Can you afford a large loan reflecting on your balance sheet as a liability, which might impair future loan approvals? On

online @ probeauty.co.za

a financed purchase, the supplier receives their money upfront and the customer is really in relationship with a bank.

“Venus Concept offers a subscription model whereby devices remain our property during the term. Zero interest is involved. As our partner, customers enjoy the use of the system. We require your business insurance to cover accidental damage, but we take care of everything else.”

You need to understand as much as possible about the device you are considering. In order to attract clients, your system must be better/ smarter than your competitors in terms of advanced technology, a better treatment experience (pain-free / faster / less treatments), and more clinical evidence.

Price points out that technology type affects potential ROI. “Light-based devices are typically more expensive and have higher maintenance costs than RF (radiofrequency) devices, as light-based applicators have a finite life span.

Venus Concept’s limited warranty covers you for the duration of the term without the need to, for example, factor in the cost of expired applicators for lightbased devices, or for charged service calls.

“No supplier can state nett profits for their devices and an exact time frame. Venus Concept suggests gross profit (turnover minus contract cost to date) can turn positive, assuming

you attract business at an incremental rate of up to 50% of device capacity, after six to nine months, depending on (MP)2 or Diode technology. At this rate, it is possible to exceed the full 36-month contract value at 10 to 17 months for the respective technologies and achieve highly profitable margins at end of term.”

High demand Best Lasers and Best Enterprise have identified a significant increase in the demand for hair removal devices.

Says the company’s Nicola Steenkamp: “According to the American Transparency Market Research company and ISAPS international survey on aesthetic/ cosmetic procedures performed in 2017, hair removal is the 2nd leading device-based procedure in the world, after liposuction. The worldwide market for hair removal is estimated at US $880.2 million (2017). It has a compound annual growth rate of 9% between the years 2017-2022.”

Steenkamp points out that business owners could charge between R1,700 and R2,300 for a hair removal treatment that takes only 3.5 minutes. “You would add about 10 minutes to that treatment to ensure you do the full consultation.

“Financing these devices can cost you anything from R3,000 to R25,000+ per month. We work on an average income per treatment for hair removal of R900 (underarms will cost clients between R400-R650, full legs will cost clients between R1,200-R2,500 etc.). To cover a monthly installment of R7,000 (average) for your device per month – you would only need to see two hair removal clients per week.”

Considered selection Branislav Sucansky of BTL Aesthetics SA believes that prior to purchasing any piece

37 Aesthetic Devices

of equipment, salon owners need to look at what treatments are in demand in terms of your existing clients, as well as within your area of business.

“You then need to look at all the equipment available that delivers these treatment (s). Make sure that the supplier you choose will be a reliable partner and that the piece of equipment is supported by scientific studies to deliver results and has all the proper safety certifications.”

Then, research what you should be charging per treatment, taking competitors into account.

“Look at the cost per treatment for your business versus what you are getting from the client to ensure you are covering costs or making profit. Take into account expensive consumables, as well as the credits certain suppliers charge you upfront for particular equipment.

“Lastly, make sure you do enough investigations to determine how many clients you can book per day, week and month, so you can cover your monthly instalment,” advises Sucansky.

Skin diagnostics Clinical trainer at Radiant Healthcare, Tashlyn Louis, believes that a facial analysis system is vital to any specialist skin clinic.

“The aim of these systems is to allow for a more ‘convincing’ consultation by showing clients their skin on a screen as a 3D image, with visible evidence of pores, wrinkles, underlying pigmentation and internal inflammation,” she says. “During their treatment programme, frequent photos are taken with the system, allowing patients to see their progress.”

Louis maintains that clinics which have invested in skin diagnostic equipment are experiencing increased treatment and product sales. “Clinics have shown upwards of 20% increase in revenue, and this is just the tip of the iceberg. While we at Radiant Healthcare would encourage clinics to invest in equipment such as Fractional RF, or IPL based skin rejuvenation, the basics of skin analysis need to be addressed first.

“As device-based skin analysis is much more detailed than a traditional analysis, there is room to charge a consultation fee.

Aesthetic doctors are able to simulate an image, showing what the patient would look like if they had an increase in lip volume using dermal fillers, neurotoxin injections, or even

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Aesthetic Devices

38

a thread lifting procedure. The doctor is then able to charge an additional fee for the simulation.”

Mutual trust Naomi Olivier of the Hitech Group believes the starting point to investing in devices is to create a loyal and satisfied customer base.

She continues: “You need to understand as much as possible about the device you are considering. In order to attract clients, your system must be better/ smarter than your competitors in terms of advanced technology, a better treatment experience (pain-free / faster / less treatments), and more clinical evidence.

“To be competitive you have to offer the best clinical results at an affordable price. Treatments must be safe and effective and clinically backed up by the manufacturer. Consider the price of the device, the quality of the system and what support and training the supplier offers.”

Other considerations are delivery and installation, warranty period and what the warranty includes. The expected lifetime and cost of consumables is another important factor.

“Cultivating reliable suppliers is an important part of your business and mutual trust is an asset. It’s vital that you determine whether your supplier complies to the South African

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and international regulations and requirements pertaining to lightbased systems. Ask your supplier for documentation as proof of their compliance to these regulations,” concludes Olivier.

Devices Soprano Titanium

minutes. The device boasts contact cooling on its hand pieces to minus 4 degrees Celsius together with patented In-Motion technology.

BTL Exilis Elite The BTL Exilis Elite offers a number of treatments in one – skin rejuvenation, skin tightening, fat reduction and body contouring.

It combines RF and ultrasound to safely and uniformly heat the deeper layers of the skin for increased collagen synthesis, skin tightness, elasticity, tissue volume and tone.

This advanced technology not only reduces wrinkles and remodels the face but also assists with volume reduction and recontouring of problem body areas. Studies have shown that the uniform delivery of heat deep into the targeted layers of fat, achieves effective lipolysis (breakdown of fat) and controlled cell death, providing a marked improvement in skin laxity and a 30-40% reduction of fat.

3D LifeViz Mini Alma Lasers’ Soprano Titanium hair removal device, available from Best Lasers, uniquely uses three laser hair removal wavelengths (755nm Alexandrite, 810nm Diode and 1064nm Nd: YAG wavelengths) in a single hand piece.

With the footprint size of the hand piece at 4cm2, the operator can treat a full back in just 3.5

Available from Radiant Healthcare, QuantifiCare’s 3D LifeViz Mini is the most compact 3D camera system for skin analysis and simulation. The accuracy achieved by 3D reconstructed images in a compact and portable system impressed the judges who awarded the 3D LifeViz Mini the Best Aesthetic Device trophy at AMEC 2015.

FormaTK

The system is based on a particular version of stereophotogrammetry where the 2D images are automatically merged by the QuantifiCare suite into a 3D representation.

Onda

The Forma System is a multifunctional device that features four advanced technologies: IPL, BiPolar RF, ultrasonic and diamond peeling. This versatile and powerful ‘All-in-One’ platform allows professional practitioners to offer a wide range of treatment solutions without compromising safety or results.

Available from Best Enterprise, the Forma System was uniquely developed to offer the highest standards of both safety and effectiveness, while fulfilling practitioners’ needs and requirements in today’s competitive medical aesthetics market.

Venus Glow

The Onda by Deka with Coolwaves, available from Hitech Lasers, is a multi-awardwinning Body Sculpting device.

Coolwaves is a new concept of special microwaves that selectively target fat cells to reduce localised fat deposits in a safe, effective and noninvasive way.

During treatment with a smart hand piece, the generated heat destroys fat cells and tightens connective tissue while cooling the dermis which preserves the skin, ensuring patient safety and comfort.

Venus Glow dermal rejuvenation is now available in South Africa.

Two nozzles of 70 microns release saline solution with a powerful jet action, enabling the solution to enter pores and reach the dermal layers.

The adjustable vacuum in combination with the micro-jet solution, provides a powerful

cleanse, while stimulating blood circulation and nutrient flow with a single use tip rotating through 360˚. With Venus Glow, the Stratum Corneum remains intact, so no downtime or risk of hyperpigmentation. Skin debris, impurities and excess sebum are successfully removed, resulting in a highly rejuvenated complexion and natural glow.

Motus AY Motus AY by Deka combines Alexandrite (755nm) with Nd: YAG (1064nm) laser sources, covering a wide range of applications such as hair removal, vascular treatments and benign pigmented lesions for all skin types.

The Moveo handpiece with a sapphire tip allows unwanted hair to be removed by means of a new method that is easier, faster, safer and more effective.

This treatment is pain-free with no side-effects. Motus AY is available from Medilase.

Coaxmed Facial and body treatments can be performed with the Coaxmed multiplatform, distributed by Aim Aesthetics Holdings SA. The fractional RF procedure features the combination of RF, microneedling and vacuum to generate changes in the structure of the dermis to treat superficial and deep wrinkles and to fight skin laxity. This treatment is less painful and more accurate than the traditional skin needling roller.

Microscopic punctures stimulate collagen production in the dermal layer, breaking down blood vessels directly below the surface of the skin. The untreated tissue acts as a ‘free’ biological reserve, resulting in a quick recovery and the absence of side-effects. PB online @ probeauty.co.za

Aesthetic Devices

39

Aesthetic Medicine

40

Taking it in the neck Due to the outdoor lifestyle and sunny conditions in South Africa, many of our clientele tend to show prominent ageing in the neck and décolleté area.

T

he neck and décolleté is one of the first areas of the body to show signs of ageing as the delicate skin contains far less elastin fibres in comparison to the face. This results in a weaker supporting structure.

The neck also lacks fatty tissue to give additional support to the collagen

surrounding connective tissue.

As we age, the platysma muscle fibres shorten and contract, which creates the classical platysmal bands which can be very obvious and are quite often referred to as ‘tech neck’ or ‘turkey neck’.

Furthermore, the constant overuse of cellular technology and looking down at our phones continually instead of at each other leads to an increase of pressure and creasing of the delicate neck area, which can accelerate the formation of line and wrinkles.

Ageing on the neckline and the décolletage may also be increased by our sleeping style and continual pressure on one area of the neck or décolleté on a pillow for several hours at a time.

Neglect matrix that is responsible for keeping our skin firm and tactile.

In addition, the combined effect of sagging jowls, submental fullness loss of elasticity and the formation of platysmal bands all contribute to the hallmark of an ageing neck.

The platysma is a vertical muscle that runs throughout the entire neck and it lacks connection from the

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Many of us are aware of treating and protecting our facial skin but tend to neglect the neck and décolletage area, especially when applying UV protection and our treatment products.

A bit like our hands, our necks and décolleté can give away our age and by caring for the face only and neglecting theses prominent areas, you may often even notice mismatched skin appearances on clients.

In men, the ageing neck can pose some different issues to woman in that their skin is generally thicker and heavier than woman’s skin and often the optimal result can be challenging due to this factor.

Rough skin texture

Sagging skin

The décolletage generally ages with uneven pigmentation and deep vertical lines due to continual sun exposure and breakdown of the collagen and elastin in the skin.

If the client has rough skin texture due to sun exposure, you can apply a good neck and décolletage cream with active ingredients like DermaFix SND Correcto (a deep penetrating dermal corrector), which assist to even out skin discolouration whilst improving fine lines and wrinkles. This product also provides skin moisturisation for the neck and décolletage, whilst working to restore skin firmness by accelerating dermal healing.

The additional inclusion of Vitamin A Propionate revitalises and balances the skin within 30 days of use.

In salon, a series of skin peels could assist in retexturising the surface of the epidermis.

However, with laser rejuvenation treatments virtually any skin condition on the neck and décolletage area can be improved – from resurfacing to brightening and retightening the epidermis. The younger a customer starts the better, as it prevents the deterioration of the skin colour and texture as one gets older.

The platysma is a vertical muscle that runs throughout the entire neck and it lacks connection from the surrounding connective tissue. As we age, the platysma muscle fibres shorten and contract, which creates the classical platysmal bands which can be very obvious and are quite often referred to as ‘tech neck’ or ‘turkey neck’.

Injectables

Dermal fillers that are based on hyaluronic acid (HA) are excellent to assist with the replenishment of lost moisture and can also improve volume and elasticity.

This makes them a suitable option for treating a delicate, ageing décolletage. Once the skin is treated with mesotherapy and filler, the epidermis will appear plumper and the lines and wrinkles effectively smoothed.

A good thing about treating the décolletage area is that you cannot over-treat the skin in this area as it settles well and actually can give a better result long term.

So repeat treatments with HA booster are highly recommended.

On the injectables front, the off-label use of botulinum toxin to perform the Nerfetiti neck lift, named after the Egyptian queen, involves injections of botulinum toxin into the lower jaw and neckline. The amount of injections are variable depending on the patient in terms of muscle bulk and definition.

This treatment is best suited with early signs of neck ageing, in particular mild jowling and platysmal bands. It is essential that the depth of the injection is only intradermal to avoid diffusion of the toxins into the deeper structures of the neck,

which would affect speech and swallowing.

Patients who are genetically predisposed to skin laxity on the neckline may need a more permanent fix in the form of a surgical neck lift. However, if they are not wanting to go under the knife, lipolytic injections namely Kybella and Ciccarelli solution can dramatically reduce a double chin.

Fillers

For a sagging skin on the neck you could consider the option of a Polydioxanone (PDO) thread lift.

In thread lifting the fine threads are inserted into the area to pull lax skin together, resulting in a firming, tightening effect. These threads also boost collagen production so even better results are expected weeks and months after the procedure as the threads are absorbed and new collagen is created. The full results can be seen after a few months.

Treatment results can expect to last for about two years.

The thread lift, however, has more side effects and downtime than injectables.

Common side effect include swelling, haematoma, infection, migration of sutures, puckering and dislodging of the thread position, leading to asymmetry.

If dislodging happens this will then need to be reviewed and possibly corrected.

Patient awareness As with any aesthetic procedure, it is really important that the patient understands the pros and cons of the procedure and is made aware of the risks and recovery time before proceeding with the treatment.

When it comes to rejuvenation, with most areas of concern it’s true that ‘prevention is ultimately better than cure’. The younger you are when you start treating and protecting this area, the better you are going to maintain it.

As medical aestheticians we should always include these areas in our treatments and make the clients aware of the importance of maintaining and protecting the skin on these delicate areas. PB A qualified aesthetician, Karen Ellithorne has been actively involved in the skincare industry since 1992, working as a lecturer and therapist, as well as successfully importing and distributing various products throughout South Africa. karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za

online @ probeauty.co.za

Aesthetic Medicine

41

Hair News

42

Crowning GLORY

Tress-a-licious news from the hair front

Star hair Award-winning British actress, Rosamund Pike, stunned on the red carpet in a hairstyle by Moroccanoil celebrity hairstylist, Bryce Scarlett, at the recent 76th Annual Golden Globe Awards.

Scarlett was inspired by Pike’s custom black and silver Givenchy Couture dress, wanting to ensure that her hair looked suitably sleek and sophisticated.

011 305 1600

Restoration reward The AQ Skin Solutions – AQ Advanced Hair Complex+ has won the Hair Restoration Product of the Year category at the recent MyFaceMyBody Awards USA 2018 in Los Angeles. Winners were selected from hundreds of applicants from across America. AQ Skin Solutions was recently introduced into the South African market.

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Stunning shea

Oil spill

Saryna Key has launched four new shea butter collections individually formulated for damaged, curly, colour treated or fine hair. These four product collections also feature natural ingredients including wheat, apple, cotton and silk products, as well as amino acids. All products are sls/sles (sulphate), paraben, phosphate and cruelty free.

Following on from the phenomenal success of its Kálice Oil, which contains seven precious vegetable oils (argan, myrrh, ojon, macadamia, sweet almond, jasmine and rosemary), Inoar has launched the Kálice Multi-functional Shampoo for all hair types, as well as the Kálice Multi-funtional mask / conditioner.

082 412 2388

012 346 1721

online @ probeauty.co.za

Product News

43

market IN THE

Our round-up of new products and treatments

Soothing corrective DermaFix HydraSooth SOS is a powerful anti-inflammatory corrective assisting to reduce skin sensitivity and calm redness. It boosts skin hydration whilst promoting skin recovery and a refined texture. Perfect for use on all skin types including sensitised and sunburnt skins, DermaFix HydraSooth SOS may be used as a serum, masque or moistruiser.

Protective shield The Daily Defence Finishing Mist from TheraVine provides a continuous source of moisture that refreshes and revitalises, while leaving the skin feeling softer to the touch, more supple and positively glowing after each use. Each spray provides a natural antibacterial effect and is packed with the only the best pollution-fighting ingredients.

086 128 2323

Lovely lips The Janssen Cosmetics Goodnight Lip Mask is a smoothing overnight mask for full, supple lips.

Ingredients include hyaluronic acid, phyto extracts, smoothing shea butter, protective herbal waxes and cellstrengthening oils.

Goodnight Lip Mask is also the perfect daytime SOS treatment for stressed lips.

(011) 327 3440/1/2

021 886 6623

Sassy serum From pHformula, the MELA Concentrated Corrective Serum contains a specialised blend of active ingredients and moisture-binding ingredients to leave skin healthy and hydrated. Two years in development, this multifunctional serum improves the appearance of pigmentation and helps to even out skin tone, whilst protecting the skin against photo-damage.

082 338 2368

>

online @ probeauty.co.za

44 Product News

Nice rice

Fantastic tan Infused with a beautiful fragrance, Tantastic is not just a self-tan, it’s a fashion accessory for women who live fast, spontaneous lives and need a tan to match. All Tantastic tans have been developed to leave the skin feeling soft, supple, and moisturised. The tans are fast-drying, simple to use and last up to seven days.

076 240 3719

Youthful cream The Premium Youth Cream from the Secrets de Sothys premium line has a wonderfully active texture that forms a biomimetic satin film with a lifting effect on the skin’s surface.

Its delicate fragrance is an invitation to a feeling of wellbeing.

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The SIX Rice Enzyme Exfoliating Powder is a combination of rice starch, oatmeal and papaya extracts to gently exfoliate the skin, absorb oil shine and refine large pores, while calming the skin. The application starts in the form of an enzyme powder, which is activated once mixed with a little water. Gentle enough for daily use.

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group or committee • Work-based research and writing articles • Perusal of professional magazines and journals • Industry related hobbies ad projects • Charitable work For more information please visit www.saahsp. co.za or contact Joelette Theron Professional Body Administrator on joelette@ saahsp.co.za / 011 675 6518.

CIDESCO announces World Congress 2019 The 67th CIDESCO World Congress & Exhibition will take place in Chicago, Illinois from 18 to 23 September, hosted by CIDESCO USA. CIDESCO is the world’s major international beauty therapy association and the global standard for beauty and spa therapy. Themed ‘The Architecture of Beauty’, the 2019 congress looks set to attract spa and wellness professionals from around the world.

Says CIDESCO USA CEO Paul Dykstra “How exciting it is for CIDESCO USA to join with

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our peers in the international esthetics, beauty and wellness community for this global event that explores further the benefits of the unrivaled CIDESCO education.”

The five-day event will host meetings with CIDESCO Examiners, Schools, a General Assembly and Expo. CIDESCO International President, Anna-Cari Gund of Sweden, will be a special guest along with CIDESCO ‘diplomates’ (i.e. masters in their areas of esthetics expertise), delegates and associate members.

The World Congress offers estheticians, spa and wellness professionals valuable educational lectures as well as a cultural evening and the famed CIDESCO Makeup and Body Art Competition. Educational offerings will explore technique, ingredients, trends, procedures and business building offerings.

Guests, by invitation, may also attend the CIDESCO World Congress Gala Dinner.

Events will unfold at the Hyatt Regency Chicago. Visit americasbeautyshow.com for the latest information.

Issue 25

Mar/Apr 2019

Top tips Sugaring and striping techniques

Innovative icon

Shutterstock

Talking to Elmien Scholtz

Competitive edge Staying ahead of the curve

I

Tel: 011 675

6518, Fax:

086 588 0973,

SAAHSP ann ounce t’s always wonderful to be able to acknowledge achievement and in thisfor issue we run an s Skillz book online SAAHSP de CPD porta signated me l mbers in-depth interview with Elmien Scholtz, founder of leading South African professional nail brand, Bio Sculpture, which celebrated its 30th anniversary late last year. Congratulations to Bio Sculpture on reaching this amazing milestone! As the article reveals, Elmien was ahead of her time in developing a curable, soak-off gel and she remains a true innovator in the industry. Top tip s Our experts in this issue hone in on a very important topic – how nail professionals can Innovative assist in uplifting the industry. After all, nail professionals are all part of the same industry and icon should share the responsibility of lifting standards to the benefit of all.

We are delighted to feature a step by step created by South African-born, Netherlands-based nail artist, Tracey Lee, in this issue. Tracey is an international award-winning nail artist known for Competiti her extraordinarily creative and technically superior nail designs. In this step by step she reveals ve edge sugaring and striping techniques.

While NailFile is essentially positioned as a business magazine and our Salon Focus stories focus on the operational side of salons, our article on Polished by Navi, a fairly new but already bustling nail bar in Illovo, Johannesburg, has an inspiring and poignant back story that is a fascinating read.

Postal addres s: Postnet

Suite 236,

Private Bag

X1, Cresta

Issue 25

Mar/Apr 2019

Sugaring and striping techniqu es

Talking to Elmien Scholtz

S h u t t e r s t o c k

Welcome

48

Staying ahead of the

curve

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

What’s inside Nail File

50 49 News

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60

56

62

Stay in the know

Let’s get technical

Step by Step

Product Hub

50

58

63

Ask the Experts

Salon Focus

Top Tech Talk

53

60

Business

Style Savvy

Uplifting the industry

Keeping your business competitive

54 Interview

Talking to…Elmien Scholtz online @ probeauty.co.za

In loving memory

Easter surprise

61 EducatioNail

Health, safety and exposure control

The latest launches

Anneke Kleynhans

49 News

NEWS

Information at your fingertips Upcoming Nail Summit to bring positive change to industry

I

n an effort to gather nail professionals together for a common cause, SAAHSP – The Professional Body for the Skin, Body & Nail Care industry, will organise a Nail Summit to be held on 15 July in Gauteng.

This open forum event will provide a platform to educate and inform delegates, who will brainstorm the various challenges facing the nail industry today.

With presentations by top

speakers and experts in their field, the Nail Summit will focus on education, unauthorised importing of professional products, malpractice, ethics and insurance, as well as other matters of concern.

Sonette van Rensburg, who is on the SAAHSP board for the Nail Professionals Profile, says: “I am really excited about the event and believe that the Nail Summit will be the perfect platform and initiative for nail professionals to listen, be

informed, engage and network with like-minded professionals to resolve these issues and concerns collectively.

“There is so much that we can learn from each other and we can all be part of making a difference to the nail industry through collaborating and standing together for the same purpose.”

The Nail Summit programme and venue will be confirmed in the next issue of NailFile.

Deveraux-May Combrink wins ‘Circus & Funfair’ challenge

T

he winner of the NailFile Photographic Nail Design Challenge – ‘Circus & Funfair’ – is Deveraux-May Combrink.

NailFile received many vibrant and pretty entries for this challenge. Competition director, Sonette van Rensburg, comments on the winning set of nails: “For me, Devareaux-May Combrink’s nails stood out the most and she definitely earned her ringside seat in the ‘Circus & Funfair’ challenge.

“This playful and colourful theme was one you could have so much creative fun with and it certainly shows that DeverauxMay had tons of enjoyment creating these little works of art.

She carried the theme through each and every nail beautifully in the designs, colour, texture and technique, using a combination of encapsulated designs, 2D, 3D and hand painted work.

“Her step by step presentation was excellent and explained each of her works of art and the inspiration behind them, with the theme carrying through all the way. It was absolutely beautifully done and presented so well done Deveraux-May, you certainly showed us your best performance.”

Combrink reveals that the

inspiration for her set of nails was the movie, ‘The Greatest Showman’.

She continues: “When I think of carnival or funfair – I don’t only want popcorn or rides, I want a show. I thought of the theme as an antique, olden days type of carnival.”

Sponsored By:

online @ probeauty.co.za

Business

50

ask

the experts

QUESTION: What is my responsibility as a nail professional and what can I do to assist with

uplifting the industry?

LEA CASTRO It’s disappointing to see the poor standard that has become acceptable in the beauty industry today. These days hygiene, professionalism, personal grooming, services and general attitude need some form of adjusting in most salons. Some of the best nail professionals are losing clients due to an overall bad in-salon experience.

Clients are no longer prepared to accept the ‘I am doing you a favour by helping you’ type of treatment. Instead, they will find a place that offers them the excellent service they are paying for.

A client’s experience starts the minute they phone to make an appointment. Do you make them feel welcome, special and uplifted? We live in a negative world and face challenges daily, therefore paying for a service like having your nails done must be the ultimate relaxing experience.

online @ probeauty.co.za

My suggestion is to start with an analysis – perhaps conduct an anonymous survey with your clients. It is important that you take responsibility for what is revealed by the survey and that you be willing to make the necessary adjustments to benefit your clients and business.

Ask yourself the following questions: • Is the salon’s hygiene up to standard? Are tools clean and constantly disinfected? Does every station have all the necessary tools and equipment to offer a professional service from start to finish?

• Is the salon cluttered and messy?

• Is the salon atmosphere warm and welcoming?

• When a client arrives, is she acknowledged and ushered to a waiting area in a professional manner?

Friendliness, cleanliness and professionalism cost nothing and yet these make the biggest impact on your business. It is your responsibility to be the best version of yourself as your business reflects who you are.

Set higher standards and goals for yourself this year and you will be surprised at what you can achieve!

Lea Castro is the CEO of Looking Good LCN. In 1994 Castro started her career as a part-time nail technician before opening a home based salon two years later, offering beauty services with a main focus on nails. She did conversion training with LCN in 1999 and fell in love with the brand.

SANDY FUHR Picture the scene. You need a set of acrylic nails. You book with a nail technologist who studied acrylic nails…in 2002.

She still follows the same procedures, using the same products formulated back then, and hasn’t continued any professional development.

Would you feel confident having your nails done?

Qualifying as a nail technologist starts with the best basic training at a reputable, accredited training provider. Check that your college is accredited and has dynamic, experienced educators, who will ensure your starting point propels you forward in the best way possible. The words ‘Quick, short courses’ should be a warning sign for you to run in the opposite direction. Ensure Manicures/ Pedicures is a core course before you even start your advanced Nail Technology training.

Global trends are ever-changing so always keep up to date with the latest and greatest ideas.

Continually giving back to the industry is a massive responsibility once you are experienced. Joining a Professional Body such as SAAHSP is essential to keep you informed and in touch. They need new and youthful contributions to continue their quest to uplift the industry.

It is essential to attend professional seminars, workshops, expos and undertake any further training offered by the outstanding distributors we have in South Africa.

Clients are highly informed with technology at their fingertips.

They are able to discuss the most

sophisticated treatments and if you are unable to talk on their level and advise them continuously, they may move onto more knowledgeable nail techs. They also deserve and expect a hygienic environment.

Reading professional nail magazines is an absolute must.

You pick up so many tips and ideas to take to business.

Sandy Fuhr (Roy) is CEO of the Beauty Therapy Institute group of 10 Beauty colleges.

She is a PR board member of Zurich-based CIDESCO International and a past-president of SAAHSP, CIDESCO Section South Africa.

Fuhr has received numerous awards for her contribution to the industry in South Africa and globally.

SONETTE VAN RENSBURG As the nail industry grows, so too do some very concerning issues that bring the professionalism and standards of our industry, which we are so desperately trying to uplift, into question. These include a lack of proper professional training, hygiene and sanitation lapses, improper practices in the salon and even the treating of medical conditions and disorders.

It’s a vicious circle – a lack of training and education leads to a lack of knowledge, which in turn leads to improper practices and nail technicians performing unsafe techniques and treatments, and doing what they shouldn’t.

So what can YOU do as a nail professional to assist with uplifting the industry?

• Make sure you start your career in the correct way. Learning from YouTube or even from one of your colleagues won’t instil all

the necessary knowledge and skills. Attend training at reputable and accredited institutes who cover everything you need to know.

• Share knowledge and information with others, co-workers, suppliers, educators, nail technicians, and even your clients.

• Always be professional in your attitude and approach, you will only gain more respect this way.

Be an example.

• If you want to be taken seriously in this industry you have to not only act like a professional but talk like one too. It reassures clients if you know what you are talking about.

• Always ensure you adhere to strict and proper practices and protocols with regards to safety, hygiene and sanitation procedures. Provide a safe nail

haven for your clients and show them you care.

• Never compromise on the quality of your services, your professionalism, your standards and the integrity of others, by doing anything that goes against your better judgement.

• Always be the best you can be and the entire nail industry will benefit from your service excellence. It’s up to every one of us to make a difference.

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the industry for 28 years. She consults with salons and spas and trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail technology.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Business

51

Nail Design Competition

52

Photographic Nail Design Competition

Explore the mystical powers and age-old stories of Arabian Nights.

Take a magical carpet ride through caves filled with treasures and magic lamps, inspiring you to create fantastical nail designs that are out of this world!

A

rabic folk tales tell stories of hidden treasure and magical powers, reminding you of Aladdin or Ali Baba, packed with oriental mystique – not one, but two genies, wicked magicians, gold jewels galore, a palace that is transported through thin air, a beautiful princess, and a poor boy who gets very lucky indeed.

Rules & Regulations

• Designs must be created according to the theme – Arabian Nights.

• Rhinestones and embellishments may be used but must not dominate the design work.

• Nail stylists have complete artistic freedom to interpret and create their designs in any style they wish, using flat, encapsulated 2D or 3D design work and techniques.

• Designs must be created on a live model and can be done on either natural nails or enhancements and not on tips only.

• Photographs must be of a high resolution and quality.

• The model’s hands, cuticles and nails must be perfectly manicured and in a good condition.

PLEASE remove cuticle oil prior to taking photos.

• Any length and shape may be achieved to suit the design work and theme.

• A combination of products and nail systems may be used.

• Each of the model’s 10 nails must have a different but complementary design on them.

• Designs must be the nail stylist’s own original work and not copied.

Sponsored by • Please provide a step by step of your work, inspiration behind your design, explanation and photos. Additional points will be award for presentation.

• Photos must be submitted by 20th April 2019.

To see the full list of Rules & Regulations go to www.probeauty.co.za

online @ probeauty.co.za

Product Business News

53

Keeping your business competitive For your nail business to continue being successful you need to constantly keep abreast of what is happening in the industry and offer your clients that little something extra to ensure they return to your salon for their treatments time after time, writes Sonette van Rensburg.

A

s a serious nail professional, keeping at the cutting edge of an ever-growing industry can be challenging but it is imperative especially if you want to stay afloat in very competitive market.

With countless salons to choose from to fulfill their beauty needs, clients are no longer obligated to go to any one particular place and just settle for an ordinary treatment and service. Clients want to go to a salon or nail professional that not only offers them a top quality service, but that also offers them value for money, has a good sound knowledge about what they are doing, are highly skilled and, most importantly, keeps up to date with ever changing trends, technology and product innovation.

At times a client would like to just pop into a salon for a quick file and polish, but a lot of the time they want more than that. When it comes to

hand, foot and nail services one might think that there’s not much more one can do or add to change up a treatment. Well, think again!

The professional nail industry is one of the fastest growing industries in the world and is constantly evolving.

game, so there’s definitely no excuse for doing things the way you did 10 or five years ago, or even last year. I would highly recommend that you do some extensive research as to exactly what is up-to-the-minute, in order to know what you are up against.

Choice

Profit

With the advancement in product innovation, education and technology there is no excuse not to offer our clients the best, with a multitude of professional hand, foot and nail products at our disposal. It has become easier to offer clients not only the best, but also the most advanced and beneficial treatments available.

However, be careful not to offer too much of a choice as it can also be confusing for the client. Rather, be more focused and know exactly what you are offering and why.

There are various ways in which you can stay at the top of your

Don’t forget that offering your clients the best and most innovative up to date products using the latest techniques comes at a price, so make sure you include these costs and price your treatments correctly.

To maintain your profits remember to save on the less important things but at the same time, don’t skimp on areas that could compromise the treatment and the client’s overall satisfaction, just to save a few bucks here or there.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Interview

54

Talking to...

Elmien Scholtz

In late 2018, South African professional nail care brand, Bio Sculpture Gel, celebrated its 30th birthday. Joanna Sterkowicz talks to the brand’s iconic founder, Elmien Scholtz, about Bio Sculpture’s evolution and growth over the years.

How does it feel to have created a globally recognised brand of 30 years standing?

It feels both exciting and humbling. Of course I am only part of the growth, stability and success of the brand and the company.

My husband Carl controls the financial department, which is crucial to the success of any business, regardless of the standard or popularity of the product.

Bio Sculpture has a network of skilled personnel at head office and many hands that help to make it happen.

The network also includes numerous loyal suppliers, media and marketing teams, importers and South African distributors, each with their own network of educators and nail technicians who are, together with the end user, a huge part of the success.

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What is your business ethos?

If you believe that something is the best for your business, its people and the industry, just do it.

How many countries do you export to?

Bio Sculpture has 18 importers and our product is distributed to 40 countries. Our biggest overseas markets are the UK, Japan, Australia, Israel and Canada. We are currently in negotiation with one or two new countries this year.

What has been Bio Sculpture’s biggest milestone thus far?

The fact that our Base Gel has stood the test of time. After 30 years of industry development, I believe that our BIOGEL is still the best base gel from a jar.

If you believe that something is the best for your business, its people and the industry, just do it. However, a small percentage of users will never agree with change, but the positive effect that change may have on loyal brand users is always more important. We owe our new improved innovations to them.

You’re a qualified somatologist – at what stage did you decide to specialize in nails?

I was a dedicated beauty therapist focused on skincare. It was only after I started my search for a better nail system for my own beauty salon that I became more directed and specialised in nails

What inspired you to create a curable, colour soak-off gel?

I was looking for something that would be easier to apply than the acrylics of those days, longer lasting and easier to remove. A product that would be thinner and more like nail polish, that would not damage the nail during removal.

How did you develop the technology?

While working with scientists and conducting many tests, UV curable technology turned out to be the only method that was as user friendly and close to regular manicure application as I had envisaged. Our first samples were available for testing within a year, but it took the better part of seven years before Bio Sculpture Base Gel was registered. The company itself was registered in November 1988.

Prior to developing Bio Sculpture, I had trained in several acrylic systems and we used dentist drills to remove product. Though this method proved to be hard on the client, I salute the inventors of acrylics and drills because it was the beginning of a now refined system. The modern-day e-file is far removed from the initial dentist drill of yesteryear.

What was the market’s reaction to colour soak-off gel?

Bio Sculpture Gel’s first introduction to the market was at South Africa’s first national nail competition held in Sandton, Johannesburg in 1991. The judges sent my model back, ordering me to remove the top coat. They said the hand done with ‘red nail polish’ could be judged, but the hand without colour could not have a shiny coating. When I explained that not only was the

Being a CIDESCOtrained esthetician, ‘health and beauty’ has always been more important to me than ‘fashion and beauty at any cost’. clear hand not coated, but that the red was also not a polish, the truth about a completely new nail system was revealed. I am grateful that the judges did not disqualify my work but rather showed interest in this new nail system.

The reaction was awesome and Bio Sculpture Gel was very well accepted in the market

Please comment on your focus on the health of the natural nail.

Being a CIDESCO-trained esthetician, ‘health and beauty’ has always been more important to me than ‘fashion and beauty at any cost’. The underlying nail always had to be protected from harsh chemicals while being covered, as well as from damaging removal methods. Bio Sculpture is very proud of its firm stand on maintaining health as far as possible. As proof, we had our product undergo a study to assess efficacy and tolerability on first

time, as well as long time, users.

The study concluded that Bio Sculpture Base Gel was rated effective and tolerable with 99% of no contact dermatitis. It was a 5-Star rating from a two-year medical research study.

Please comment on your brand’s focus on education.

There is a saying that a product is only as good as its application.

We make a special effort to give the best initial, as well as ongoing, education. New techniques and products are launched through the year every year, so it remains a huge task to keep techs updated with the best and latest products, trends and application methods.

Our international head of education, Tania Biddle, travels across the world to keep Bio Sculpture training systems updated.

What can the market look forward to in the future?

During our 30-year celebration in Cape Town last year, Bio Sculpture introduced its re-branding (including a new logo and slogan), as well as new gel jars, a nail polish range called Gemini, and a health care range called Ethos. We will also be launching a product totally different to BIOGEL or Evo Gelpolish, called Bi-Olygel.

We are very excited to introduce Bi-Olygel, which will serve a large percentage of the nail client market that prefers a sturdy nail finish.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Interview

55

Business Step by Trends Step

56

Let’s get

technical Award-winning international nail artist, Tracey Lee, demonstrates a design that incorporates two techniques – striping and sugaring – which nail techs can combine in one design, or use separately in other unique designs for quick, easy and effective salon art.

1

Apply two strips of striping tape from the middle of the cuticle area, diagonally towards the free edge.

Apply two layers of black gel polish to the nail and cure each layer.

Seal with a top gel, cure and cleanse.

2

By trimming this way, the striping tape is about 0,5mm shorter than the free edge and can be sealed in securely with the top gel – see image b.

a

2a online @ probeauty.co.za

b

Tip: Striping tape is so simple and effective, but one of the major issues with striping tape that nail pros have is that it starts peeling off during wear. In order to prevent this, try placing the scissor parallel to the nail surface when trimming it.

Seal the entire nail with a tack-free top gel. Cure.

Using a tack-free gel polish, gel paint, or alternatively a tack-free top gel, paint the centre of the nail between the striping tape lines.

I have chosen to use a red tack-free gel paint here.

DO NOT CURE.

3

Business Step by Trends Step

57

Sprinkle your glitter on the surface of the nail ensuring that the entire area you prepared in the step above is coated with glitter.

Tap off the excess and cure.

Tip: I have chosen to use a tack-free product here as it cures to a non-tacky layer. It is more durable than a traditional gel polish and from my experience holds the glitter better during the weeks of wear. You are welcome to experiment with your gel polish, but try it on yourself first to see how well it wears before trying it on your clients.

4

Using a soft dust brush, dust off the excess glitter from your design.

5 7

6

In order to ensure that your embellishment stays in place for the full length of wear, using a fineliner and tack-free top gel, outline the embellishment and around the stone. In this way you have a double adhesion. Cure.

9

Apply a small triangle of builder gel in the position you are going to place your triangle embellishment.

Position your embellishment and a rhinestone of your choice and then cure.

8

Apply a thin line of builder gel to the glitter surface.

Place your silver embellishments and black rhinestone, pressing them into the builder gel. Cure and outline them as above with a fineliner and tack-free top gel. Cure.

The end result in an extreme length and a more traditional salon length.

NB! The sugaring technique (or sanding technique as it is known when using a finer powder) creates some amazing effects, however it is not suitable for all clients.

This gorgeous effect leaves a slightly rougher surface to what you clients may be used to. During wear the roughness does wear off a little, but it can take quite a bit of getting used to.

Tip: Start off using finer powders for sanding and work your way up to glitters. In this way clients can get used to the structure.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Salon Focus

58

In loving memory

Since opening six months ago, Polished by Navi has built up a solid client base, despite being located in a Johannesburg suburb particularly dense with nail and beauty salons. As owner Nerina Gurie tells Joanna Sterkowicz, the nail bar also has a poignant and inspiring back story.

P

olished by Navi, which is situated within the Tanaz precinct on Corlett Drive in Illovo, is a strictly ‘nails only’ business that was created by Nerina Gurie to fulfill the dream of her late sister.

“My sister Navina (Navi) and I had always been into beauty and initially we planned to open a massage spa together. However, when I came up to Johannesburg from KwaZulu-Natal to join Navi, I found I was having my nails done every two weeks, so Navi and I decided to open a nail bar instead.”

Unfortunately, fate had other ideas as Navi was diagnosed with stage 4 lung cancer in November 2014. “Navi was basically told by the doctors that she had three months to live,” explains Gurie.

“Her first question to the doctors was: ‘Will I be able to have a child?’

It soon became apparent that Navi

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was already pregnant and despite going through five months of chemotherapy, she miraculously gave birth to a perfectly healthy and beautiful baby boy.”

Tragically, Navi eventually succumbed to the cancer and passed away in December 2017.

On 15 August 2018, Gurie opened Polished by Navi to commemorate her sister.

Leap of faith Gurie, who has a Bachelor’s of Commerce degree, had five years of experience in corporate marketing before she decided to enter the nail world.

“After Navi died I was lost and totally broken as we had been inseparable – she was not only my nurturing big sister, but my best friend. In the midst of my turmoil I kept searching for ways to connect with her memory. Navi would often appear in my dreams, and in one dream she asked me: ‘What are you doing? Why aren’t you following my

dream?’ She meant the nail bar of course.

“So the next day I called my Dad and said that I wanted to open a nail bar. Everyone in the family knew that this is what Navi and I had wanted to do.

The biggest thing stopping me was fear – I was scared to leave the corporate world and give up a steady salary. My Dad said, ‘If fear is the only thing stopping you, then leap’. I resigned from my job the following day and began envisaging the nail bar.

I had a good starting point as Navi had already drawn up the business model for it.”

Vintage space Gurie notes that her biggest challenge was finding a suitable location as she particularly wanted somewhere ‘homely’ in the northern suburbs. When a property agent identified the space within the Tanaz building (which also houses the Tanaz

59 Business SalonTrends Focus

cultures and my management style had to change completely,” states Gurie. “I was lucky to have studied marketing, HR and accounting as it has definitely assisted me in running the business. The one thing that I retained from the corporate world is a solid work ethic.”

Cross-over clientele Polished by Navi works concurrently with Tanaz Hair Salon; either Gurie’s nail techs walk over to the hair salon to provide services, or the salon’s clients come to the nail bar while their highlights are being done.

“I have built up a steady clientele, many of whom are roll-overs in that they come in every two weeks,” she comments. “The fact that this building houses hair, facials and nails makes us a true one-stop shop.”

Getting the word out

Hair Salon and The Clarins Beauty Salon), she knew it was perfect.

“My sister loved vintage style and this space looked very vintage to me. Plus it offered an excellent opportunity for walk-in clients from the hair salon. The next challenge was to find my nail techs – I did 40 interviews and shortlisted 11 candidates, who were then asked to do practicals,” she says.

Polished by Navi has two full-time nail techs and three manicure/ pedicure stations, a system that Gurie says has worked out very well so far.

She continues: “We are purely a nail bar because I believe that if you put your hand in too many pies, you can’t perfect any of them.

Perfection and attention to detail is of paramount importance to me and was to Navi.”

Entering the nail bar business was a massive adjustment for someone from the corporate world.

“They are two completely different

In terms of marketing, when the nail bar first opened, Gurie herself stood at the robots down the road handing out pamphlets advertising Polished

by Navi.

She points out that Instagram, Facebook and word of mouth have been her biggest marketing tools.

“I’m a big believer in direct marketing and it’s clearly worked. We’ve been featured in the ‘Hello Joburg’ magazine and been written about by quite a few bloggers”

Interestingly, Polished by Navi does not have a website because Gurie specifically did not want to go the online appointment route so as not to compromise the large amount of walk-ins from Tanaz Hair and the Clarins Beauty Salon.

A quick look at the nail bar’s Facebook page shows glowing, positive customer reviews of the salon.

“The fact that people took the time and effort to rate us suggests to me that they enjoyed the experience. These people always come back to us. Initially I was only expecting to attract clients from this suburb but now we have clients who come all the way from Centurion and Lenasia. There are quite a few nail bars and/or beauty salons in this area so I feel blessed that we’ve been able to maintain good, steady business with so much competition around us,” comments Gurie.

Legacy She emphasises that the biggest part of opening the nail bar was to let Navi’s legacy live on and have her story inspire others. “I believe I’ve created a place where clients can come to us not only for nail services but also for a good and comforting experience. So many clients have said that when they walk into this bar they feel ‘the beautiful energy’ of the space and they leave feeling happy and as if a weight has been lifted off their shoulders.

“I feel that we’re living Navi’s life through the business,” concludes Gurie.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Style Savvy

60

Easter Surprise As Easter draws near, it brings with it a basket of colourful surprises filled with some of the prettiest nail colours and trends, inspired by sweet Easter treats, writes Sonette van Rensburg.

W

hen you think of Easter you think of pretty, soft, creamy pastels and fabulous chocolaty fun and that’s exactly what the nail trends are this year, with some added unexpected nail colours and ideas that look little more stylish and sophisticated.

Dare to go for something a little more playful, lighthearted and cheerful. The great thing with pastels is you can mix and match as you please and it still looks amazing. You can layer and use a number of hues together and even add touches of brighter shades, as well as a bit of shimmer here and there.

online @ probeauty.co.za

There are so many adorable ideas you can come up with and they are fairly easy to achieve. From speckled eggs in a multitude of colours, to a mixed kaleidoscope of confetti, to little decorated Easter eggs in different colours and designs, or for the more creative, some Easter bunnies for a bit more childlike fun.

For those who don’t quite want to bring out their inner child, there’s no reason not to have some cool, trendy, fun play with negative space and to add some colourful flowers and more abstract stripes in a combination of easy-going muted shades.

Colourful rainbow ombres are also still in, so incorporate a subtle design to show some Easter cheer.

There are some stunning shades and colour collections available to play with and create your Easter time nail surprises.

From barely there white to lilac pinks and baby blue, mint green and sunshine yellow and even electric sky blue and vibrant coral. And what’s any nail look without a touch of sparkle?

Glitter is always a fun way to add some glitz and glam to any look, with some gorgeous glittery shades in pretty pink, radiant rose gold and soft holographic silver.

Share your Easter nail trends with us on the Professional Beauty Facebook page and win a sweet surprise.

Business Product Business Trends News

61

Health, safety and exposure control

One of the main concerns in South Africa’s rapidly growing nail industry is that of health, safety and exposure control in the workplace.

Sonette van Rensburg digs deeper.

O

verexposure to nail products and chemicals, as well as cross contamination of infectious diseases and disorders, is quite a concerning issue that affects not only clients but salon workers as well.

This can be completely avoided by practicing and maintaining proper Hygiene & Safety standards and practicing exposure control. It’s not only the most sensible thing to do but also the most responsible.

There are general rules of safe practice, guidelines and SOPs (Standard Operating Procedures) that should be employed by nail professionals to improve workplace safety and to ensure the salon be deemed a healthy place. It is important for salon professionals to be aware of these rules and practices so that all nail services are performed in the safest manner possible to prevent problems from occurring.

It is your professional responsibility!

What is exposure?

Every chemical substance has a safe and unsafe level of exposure and is only harmful when used incorrectly and when one is overexposed to it. Some people are naturally sensitive to certain

ingredients and substances, which can’t always be avoided, however allergic reactions due to overexposure can be. Being exposed to chemicals just by touching, inhaling, or smelling them won’t necessarily cause harm. It’s exceeding the safe level of exposure which can be dangerous and that we should be avoiding.

What is overexposure?

If someone is repeatedly exposed for long periods of time to chemicals and products beyond levels specified as safe, then they could eventually become sensitive and react. This is not just skin contact but also the inhaling of fumes and vapours.

Prolonged and continued incorrect exposure will eventually lead to an allergic reaction, which can then develop into dermatitis and even serious respiratory problems.

Chemicals can enter your body through absorption (through the skin or broken tissue); inhalation (by breathing in mists, vapour or dust); and ingestion (accidentally consuming products by leaving them open or near food or even unmarked).

Avoiding overexposure The best way to prevent overexposure is to control it or completely avoid it. By following proper procedures and protecting yourself and your client by whatever means possible, professional nail services can be performed safely and easily.

Being able to recognise the signs and symptoms of over exposure when they occur will help to stop any un-safe practices that are exposing you or your client to a product or chemical, and avoid any kind of skin reaction from developing.

Overexposure is under your control if you have the understanding and know how. What you know can be very important in helping to maintain safe working practices, in fact it can even save your or someone else’s life.

I would highly recommend any nail professional who takes their profession seriously, to invest in Doug Schoon’s Face to Face series, books and DVDs, which can provide you with a lot more in depth information about this concerning issue and plenty other important and pertinent material with regards to this industry. It’s an investment well worth making.

online @ probeauty.co.za

62 Business In the Market Trends

Product

HUB

Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails

Goddess glory From LCN, the Oh My Goddess Collection is available in Colour Gel, Recolution and Nail Polish. Delicate yet expressive, these colours pay homage to the strength and bravery of women. The collection includes Aphrodite, Venus, Athena, Hera and Calypso.

010 593 3293

Dreamy colours The Calgel Dreamscape Collection consists of the following shades: CGBL11s – light blue; CGBL12s – slightly darker light blue; CGYE06s – yellow; CGPI14s – dark pink; and CGNG06s – grey.

Airy nail art

011 624 1101

The Young Nails Airbrush Kit is the latest tool to make all your finest nail art dreams come true. Nail techs will love the next-level performance the kit offers. It contains the compact, cordless and lightweight Air Brush Gun, Compressor and Power Plug.

011 393 2791

Festive times NSI’s Festival Collection features eight brand new Simplicité Colour Powders. This expansion to the line focuses on colours that celebrate activities and memories created between autumn and winter.

012 997 4010

Feet first Belladerma has introduced the Mavex Calluspeeling Foot Care product from Switzerland. This an exclusive and professional treatment with no possibility of cross contamination and does not require any neutralisation. Individual sachets ensure for better product control with once-only use file grits, as well as a plastic scraper.

031 823 5522 online @ probeauty.co.za

Top Tech Talk NailFile puts the spotlight on Pretoria-based nail stylist and salon owner, Anneke Kleynhans.

Please tell me about your salon.

What do you most like about being a nail tech?

My salon is called, LUSH A, which stands for ‘Luxurious’ and ‘Anneke’. It is located in Sinoville, Pretoria, on a plot with beautiful greenery away from the noise of the busy city life, where all of our clients can relax and breathe. My plans for the future are to open international salons on five different continents.

The first LUSH A international salon is opening later this year in Mauritius and we are very excited about this.

I love doing art on nails; if I can hand paint the art, then I’m in heaven. Furthermore, I love doing something new, as well as tackling challenging new shapes with 3D art. But most of all, I love talking to my clients and enjoy all the laughs we have in the salon each and every day.

When did your journey in nails begin?

I started doing nails at the age of 12 – my mother was a nail technician for many years. At that time I was very interested in the industry but never thought I would actually become a nail tech when I saw the long hours that my mother worked. I said to myself: ‘Never will I do the same!’ But that’s all changed as now I love doing nails and art, having always been an arty person and doing art at school. I love my clients and the more Pinterest nail art pictures they come in with to show me, the happier I am to meet their needs.

Where did you do your nail training?

Basically I was self-taught and learnt from my mother but in 2017, I went to Mia Secret to get my qualification and in September last year, I did my international VTCT qualification at The Beauty Lab Academy. During 2019, I want to do my International Educator and Trainer VTCT qualification so that I can educate my nail techs to that level.

What would you say are the qualities of the ideal nail tech?

Communication and the ability to converse is key, as when a client comes into the salon, it’s not just about having her nails done, but about the whole experience.

Our passionate nail techs create elevated experiences so that our clients have the best time while receiving manicure or pedicure services. Not all clients want to talk but most will appreciate kindness and laughter. At LUSH A we always laugh and enjoy each other’s company. All of our clients describe the salon as their ‘happy place’ where they can relax and they can’t wait for their next appointment.

Another important quality in the ideal nail tech is leadership; sometimes you get clients who need inspiration regarding what to do to their nails so they want the nail tech’s input and advice. Nail techs should want their clients to feel good about their work and come up with ideas that will excite clients, rather than just ideas the client will accept.

Communication and the ability to converse is key, as when a client comes into the salon, it’s not just about having her nails done, but about the whole experience. Our passionate nail techs create elevated experiences so that our clients have the best time while receiving manicure or pedicure services. Not all clients want to talk but most will appreciate kindness and laughter.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Business Trends Q&A

63

64 Business Trends Q&A

You recently entered the NailFile ‘Avant Garde’ photographic nail design challenge – do you enter competitions on a regular basis?

I believe that trendspotting is essential, so I always keep up with new trends and make sure I have them before clients ask for them.

As such, I’m always searching the internet for new ideas and trends. Nail styles rapidly shift and change so having a current knowledge of the latest trends can help to anticipate requests and allow you to make suggestions. It will also present opportunities for

professional development.

Keeping an eye on new products can also give nail technicians an edge.

Lastly, precision is something I believe in – rather take a little bit longer with a set of nails and be precise with your work. I will never let a client walk out of LUSH A without precision work on their nails.

This was my first ever competition. My husband (Juan Kleynhans) and Elma Schalkwyk from The Beauty Lab Academy kept on motivating me to enter.

I felt very proud of what I accomplished. Being a finalist is a massive achievement and an opportunity to promote your success to potential and current clients. And, should you win, it could give you a wonderful boost in confidence. But whether you win or lose, you grow in skill and development.

Do most of your clients request nail art?

Yes, all my clients, barring one. In terms of where I get my inspiration – I love Kirsty Meakins from Naio Nails, so I always watch her videos.

Pinterest is my second biggest inspiration.

Have you ascertained any recent trends in the nail art that your clients request?

Yes, I do a lot of ombre nails and also cut out acrylic, which is known as negative space. Aquarelle art, which I love doing, is also trending at the moment; it almost looks like watercolour paint on nails and is very elegant. For weddings, my brides love 3D embedded art, for example a white rose on the ring finger that is built inside the acrylic.

Matt nails are very popular with my clients. They also love embellishments and can’t go without them, as well as chrome powders in all colours and shades.

online @ probeauty.co.za

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