Nail File Sept 2016

Issue 10

Sept 2016

Smart moves

Scheduling walk-ins

Joys of Spring Seasonal shades

Clear direction Step by steps

State of the art Finalists in our competition

MADE IN GERMANY

2016

SPRING COLLECTION

Shop Online: shop.lcn.co.za For more information contact Looking Good LCN: Tel: 010 593 3293 | WhatsApp 083 326 0604 | info@lcn.co.za | www.lcn.co.za

WHAT’S INSIDE NAIL FILE

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16

18

20

6

22

30/32/34/36

Industry News

Winning Ways

Step by Step

Stay in the know

12 Ask the Experts

How to handle walk-ins

16 Business

Nurturing that potential

18

Showcase Nail Art Competition

26 In the Market Retailing tips

28

Colourful dots Pantone power Dancing Queen Spring speckle

38 Top Tech Talk

Q&A with Nadia Erasmus

Know Your Chemicals

Going behind product claims

Salon Focus

Nails @ Candi&Co

20 Style Savvy

The joys of Spring

Alisha Rimando Botero

Nail File Issue 10 September 2016

News

WELCOME I

Issue 10

Sept 2016

Smart moves

n this issue we are delighted to present the finalists in the Nail File Showcase Nail Art Competition, in the categories of Photographic Nail Art and Tip Box Nail Art. The whole idea of this competition is to inspire creativity in nail techs and to give exposure to skilled and innovative work.

Scheduling walk-ins

Joys of Spring Cover: Shutterstock

Seasonal shades

Clear direction Step by steps

State of the art Finalists in our competition

NAIL FILE

A Professional Beauty Supplement Published by T.E. Trade Events 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970 / Fax: 011 781 6079 Additional pics: www. shutterstock.com

Publisher Mark Moloney mark@professionalbeauty.co.uk Editor Joanna Sterkowicz joanna@probeauty.co.za Art Director Alois Sajanga alois@fmexpo.org Technical Consultant Sonette van Rensburg sonette@probeauty.co.za

We were absolutely dazzled by the beauty of the entries, as I’m sure you will be when you see them. The winners in each of the two categories will be featured in the next issue of Nail File.

On a more business-like note, we provide some invaluable information in this issue on how to handle walk-in clients when your salon is full. It seems like an impossible juggling act, but our experts reveal that there are clever ways to deal with the situation. What is crucial is that walk-ins are not ignored and treated in such a way to ensure that they will want to return to your salon.

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

Advertising Sales 011 781 5970

TO ADVERTISE in Nail File, please call 011 781 5970 TO CONTR IBUTE TO EDITOR IAL, contact Joanna TO JOIN THE CONVERSATION Visit www.probeauty.co.za and follow us on Facebook and Twitter.

Nail File Issue 10 September 2016

ICONIC OPI SHADES SHINE-INTENSE LASTS FOR WEEKS CURES IN 30 SECONDS

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6

News

NEWS

Information at your fingertips Nail techs excel in LCN competition The second annual LCN National Nail Competition was held at the Looking Good LCN Education Centre in Pretoria East on 25 July.

“W

e had two nail enhancement categories, namely Intermediate – Hard Gel Tip Overlay, and Masters – Hard Gel Paper Form Sculptures. The first category attracted six entries and the second 12 entries.

“Competitors in both categories were given two and a half hours to complete a set of nails. We run the competition based on the same criteria and standards as the Professional Beauty Nail Competition directed by Sonette van Rensburg,” says Yvette Nel of Looking Good LCN. Monique Harmse, who is based in Middelburg, Mpumalanga, triumphed in

Nail File Issue 10 September 2016

Annieka van Dyk - Masters category winner

the Intermediate Category.

She won a hand rest, hand rest cover, nail table light, batteryoperated file and 3-piece cuticle bit set with a total value of R2,745.

The Master Category winner, Annieka van Dyk, who is based in Lyttleton, Centurion, Gauteng, won a Black Diamond Electric File worth R6,300.

Shelley Hemmingway from Roosevelt Park in Johannesburg was the runner-up in this category and won a Recolution Nail Polish Gel set (including a choice of three colours), valued at R1,540 in total.

Sarie Puth from Moreleta Park in Pretoria was the runner-up and won a Recolution Nail Polish Gel set (including three colours) and Natural Nail Boost Gel, with a total value of R2,340.

Monique Harmse - Intermediate category winner

News

7

Bio Sculpture goes to Japan A team from Bio Sculpture International recently travelled to Japan to meet longstanding client, Bio Sculpture Japan.

Meetings were held with various representatives of Bio Sculpture Japan and the new product ‒ Evo by Bio Sculpture ‒ was showcased and demonstrated.

With the intention to reinforce business relationships and share product and technical information, the trip also offered the Bio Sculpture team a chance to tour the different premises in Tokyo and Osaka from which Bio Sculpture is distributed.

They attended Beauty World Show Japan and were hosted on visits to various impressive nail emporiums.

Founder and product developer of Bio Sculpture, Elmien Scholtz, headed the delegation, accompanied

by Eduard Scholtz (brand manager), Lourens Eksteen (operations manager) and Larna Scheepers (research and development assistant).

Back left to right: Larna Scheepers, Elmien Scholtz, Eduard Scholtz, Lourens Eksteen

Essie reaches 1,000 Iconic professional brand Essie has released its 1,000th shade – a pretty, shimmer yellow hue called ‘Aim to Misbehave’, which has been launched globally.

In addition to reaching this significant milestone, in September Essie launches an exciting new product – Gel Couture. This is a two-step treatment that creates a gel-like perfection on the nails and which requires no lamp to cure the gel. The customer merely chooses the Gel Couture colour of her choice and then all that is needed after application is a layer of Gel Couture Top Coat.

Available in 20 nail polish shades, Gel Couture promises up to 12 days of wear.

Nail File Issue 10 September 2016

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News

Andreia comes to South Africa Portuguese nail brand Andreia Professional is now available in the South African market through Africa Professional Nail Distributors.

Says Johannesburgbased Ilda Moreira of Africa Professional Nail Distributors: “I’m bringing Andreia products to Africa and represent 18 countries on the continent. Andreia has a wide range of nail polishes and nail care products. It is the leader in the Portuguese professional market and is found in several countries around the world, from Europe to the Middle East, Asia, and now Africa.”

Moreira points out that Andreia is a brand of Higicol S.A., a company that was

founded in 1987 just outside the city of Porto in Portugal. She continues: “Higicol is a specialist in the production and wholesale distribution of cosmetic products.

The company’s strategy is based on precision,

professionalism and innovation, always with a special emphasis on the professional sector of cosmetics.”

The Andreia product range includes nail polish, nail treatments, gel polish, hard gel and acrylic.

Dehydration a big problem According to new research conducted

by Professional Beauty UK, dehydration is the most common problem encountered by nail techs.

More than a quarter (28%) of beauty salon and spa owners polled by Professional Beauty UK said they regularly treat clients with dehydrated nails – with 11% citing overuse of gel polishes and acrylic tips as one of the reasons.

Nail File Issue 10 September 2016

Other common issues which techs said that they treat included peeling (13%), biting (12%), flaking (11%) and splitting (6%).

A further 3% said broken nails were the number one problem clients asked them to fix, usually caused by snagging, while 2% said fungal nails were their guests’ main concern.

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News

11

SA brand gets EU certification Milk Solutions, the South African professional manicure and pedicure brand, has attained EU certification, allowing it to export into the region.

Says Milk Solutions founder and owner, Karen Ellithorne: “Last year we made the decision to start expanding into international markets, with an initial focus on Africa and Europe. Because of the stringent product legislation and controls that exist in the EU in particular, the first step was to embark on a process of making sure that all Milk Solutions products were certified as meeting the ingredient quality and manufacturing criteria required for export “We approached Obelis s.a., a specialist in European regulations and cosmetic manufacturing compliance, to facilitate attaining EU compliance and accessing the European market.”

Milk Solutions then embarked on a process of rigorous product quality

testing to ensure 100% adherence with EU ingredients, manufacturing, packaging and claims criteria “One of the key components of getting the Milk Solutions products registered for international markets involved ensuring that the product packaging and labelling adhered to a whole host of requirements, including full listings of ingredients in order of percentage, production and expiry dating, explicit directions for application and use amongst other things,” explains Ellithorne.

As a consequence of having to create new product labels to accommodate these stringent information requirements, the company decided to simultaneously upgrade and refresh the brand packaging design for the first time.

“Guided by significant research into brand, cosmetic packaging and retail trends globally, the Milk Solutions brand will be launched into the global market with an evolved design, look and feel.

Colours have been enhanced, details added and themes expanded to give the ranges visual punch on the shelf.

Karen Ellithorne

“While we look forward to expanding our presence globally, we still remain committed to providing the local market with the best possible product and service support,” concludes Ellithorne.

Nail File Issue 10 September 2016

12

Ask the Experts

Juggling ACT

QUESTION: How do I handle bookings as well as walk-in clients when the salon is busy?

SAM BIDDLE So, you’ve noticed that you have had to turn a few people away, and the week before that, another few enquiries didn't want to wait more than a couple of days for an appointment and found somewhere different to go to. We get very excited about this and start thinking about a bigger picture and pulling in more staff into our salon but wait a second, let’s take a breath. How many customers are actually being turned away?

The first thing you need to do is monitor the situation, over a month or three. So, actually write down the enquiries and

what they were looking for and review them. Don't just turn these customers away; capture their contact information, send them a gift voucher for a discount on a retail product to apologise for not fitting them in immediately, and keep them thinking about you.

When it’s time to get another member of staff to help you, these walk-in clients will come back to you again, and this time you will have the space to book them in.

Sam Biddle is renowned worldwide as a nail technician and educator. She is an international judge and competition winner and the creative director of Jealous Cow Ltd. Nail File Issue 10 September 2016

Ask the Experts

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YVETTE NEL Always handle walk-ins with efficiency and professionalism. Most ‘busy’ salons have a dedicated person answering the phone and handling the bookings. Anyone who has this task must always remain calm and in control.

If you do not have a dedicated person for this, it is good to divide this responsibility into a sharing-time-schedule between your staff.

It is of the utmost importance to acknowledge a person walking through the salon door, even if you have 10 clients in front of you.

NEVER make the client feel invisible. Just saying, ‘Hello, welcome – I’ll be with you in a few minutes,’ will make her feel welcome and comfortable. Make sure you attend to her in a few minutes. If she wants to have a treatment done, make sure you look at the salon’s schedule and you might just be able to accommodate her in a short while and she might not mind waiting. If a nail professional

is on lunch, but ‘hanging around’ in the salon kitchen, go and suggest to her to help this walk-in client. If she is a real professional, this should not be a problem for her. In a very busy salon it is not always possible to take an hour’s lunch break.

When there is not the full time available for the particular treatment requested before the next client arrives, be accommodating and suggest a shorter, similar treatment. For example, a manicure can be an express mani, with painted nails but not a massage and a treatment time of between 20 and 30 minutes.

As long as salon staff comes across as being accommodating, a client should have no reason to become irritated and feel frustrated.

Yvette Nel started out in 2002 as a passionate nail technician working with all nail systems. In 2007 she had a complete career change, from nail tech to sales & area manager for Looking Good LCN. Nel loves sharing her knowledge and expertise with anyone who takes their business seriously.

Nail File Issue 10 September 2016

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Ask the Experts

SONETTE VAN RENSBURG Accommodating walk-in clients is an effective way of staying competitive and sustaining a successful business. Whether you operate through bookings only, just walk-ins, or both, there are pros and cons. A bookings only system is particularly suited to clients with busy schedules and also ensures the salon of a certain set number of clients per day.

However, this can go horribly wrong if for some reason the nail technician is suddenly not able to accommodate the client and does not have a stand in to take their place.

Alternatively, should a client not pitch for their appointment then not only are you left waiting for them, but your time is wasted and you lose money.

If your salon accommodates walk-ins then make sure the situation is well managed and that you have protocols in place. For salons with three or more nail techs, it allows you to be more accommodating. However, this will not work for you unless you have your finger on the pulse. It should work on a first come, first serve basis but firstly look at the client’s nails to assess what needs to be done.

If you don’t know call someone who does, this way you can estimate approximately how long it will take for the service and who has the necessary skills to accommodate the client. Then check when the nail tech will be available. You are now able to let the client know when you can accommodate them. If it is going to be longer than a 15-minute wait, then take their name and number and let them go off and do something else – that way they won’t get frustrated sitting there. Don’t make promises that you can take a client within a certain time and then she is left waiting for ages. All that will happen is that you will have a very irate client who ends up walking out.

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the industry for 27 years. She consults with salons and spas and trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail technology.

Nail File Issue 10 September 2016

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Business

Nurturing that

POTENTIAL Grooming a nail professional for a management position in the salon is a hands-on, interactive process, writes Sonette van Rensburg.

Nail File Issue 10 September 2016

Business

N

ail technicians have become recognised as professionals in their own right and have a selection of work areas never dreamed of in the past. Nowadays they have a full understanding and knowledge not only about nail, hand, and foot care, but also about much more to do with the nail business.

Recognising a nail professional working in your salon as someone who you feel has great potential as a manager isn’t just about promoting and assigning them to the position just like that. You’ve probably had your eye on them for a while and have been taking note of how they work, their work ethics and their attitude towards the rest of the staff.

Grooming her for a management position should be a gradual process as you prepare her for the role. However, first make sure that becoming a manager is a potential goal for her personally and a career path that she would like to follow. You need to know that she is willing to do the necessary to achieve what you expect of her.

Beginning Everyone has to start somewhere and there is no better place than at the very beginning.

Remember that a nail professional will see things from a different perspective to you, the salon owner, and doesn’t always understand the commitment it takes to be in a position like this. An outstanding nail professional will not necessarily make for a good manager, therefore it is vitally important for them to understand the management responsibility and have a sound knowledge of exactly what it entails to maintain certain practices in the nail salon environment. Most of all they should have passion for what they do.

Once you’ve identified the right person, start by informing the rest of the staff to make them feel at ease and to make sure you have their support, or else it could be

17

quite daunting for someone who has been in their comfort zone as a nail technician to be suddenly placed in a position of authority.

The most important attributes for any manager to have are: good communication and interactive skills; a positive attitude; integrity and accountability; they need to be confident but not over confident; they should also be firm but fair, they should lead by example and be a reflection of what they do and someone the staff can look up to.

Once you’ve identified the right person, start by informing the rest of the staff to make them feel at ease and to make sure you have their support.

Next, involve them in the day-to-day running and operations of the salon by assigning them responsibilities and certain tasks, as well as a set time frame in which to achieve them.

Knowing how to put systems and protocols in place and meeting deadlines is not only a very important step towards achieving high and professional standards, but it can properly equip the right person to develop a very successful and fruitful career.

A salon manager should be a true professional, as there is no doubt that professionalism and professional practice is of the utmost importance and should be maintained throughout all aspects of the business.

If the trainee manager is professional in her attitude and towards her working standards, it will count towards gaining more respect, not only from her peers but also from the clients who visit. A nail salon that provides high standards of service and does not compromise on quality will have an excellent reputation and will definitely be the most successful.

Nail File Issue 10 September 2016

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Salon Focus

NAILS @ Candi&Co

The provision of nail services has always been an important focus at Candi&Co, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

W

hen the first ever Candi&Co store opened in Randburg Square, Johannesburg in May 2014, founder and MD, Candice Thurston, always knew that nails would be an important part of the business.

“We understand that the woman of today is time-strapped; she needs to keep looking good but has limited time,” says Thurston.

“Therefore our key vision was to have a one-stopshop where women could get their hair done, along with

Nail File Issue 10 September 2016

her other beauty services such as nails, brows and lashes. Nail services are consistently one of our top five services.

“I believe nails are like a new pair of shoes. When you want to have a new look or spoil yourself, you can do your

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Salon Focus

“Our hair bar is designed so that you can do you r nails and hair at the same time, so

technically we have 10+ mani/pedi stations per store,” explains Thurston. “We usually have between two and three nail techs per store, hiring more as demand grows. All nail techs have to have passed an accredited nail course. They are all graded internally by the Sorbet Group team, before we hire them. Our nail techs also attend constant training to improve their skills.”

nails for a fraction of the price of shoes. You can play with colours, shapes and designs to suit your personality and mood.”

The popularity of nail art at Candi&Co stores is reportedly dependent on the time of year, with client demand growing during the holidays. A particularly favourite look requested by clients is a touch of glitter on one or two nails.

Thurston notes that her male nail clientele is growing. “While our focus is women and kids, we do enjoy hosting our ‘Candi-guys’, who are increasingly becoming interested in grooming.”

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While our focus is women and kids, we do enjoy hosting our ‘Candi-guys’, who are increasingly becoming interested in grooming.

She describes the style and décor of Candi&Co stores as fun and cheerful, the inspiration being a candy shop with bright colours, mixed with clean lines and lots of white.

“We love doing nails at Candi&Co and always look forward to spoiling our guests,” concludes Thurston.

Another two new Candi&Co stores are planned for launch this year.

Brands like OPI, Gelish and Morgan Taylor are carried in all Candi&Co salons.

“The quality, colour, variety and innovation from these brands are world class. They also service our stores very well and our guests love these brands. Our most popular nail treatments are Gelish overlays and manicures,” comments Thurston.

Stations There are four mani/pedi stations at each Candi&Co store (the other stores are Carlswald a nd Bluehills in Midrand

and Chilli-Lane in Sunninghill).

Nail File Issue 10 September 2016

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Style Savvy

THE JOYS OF Spring is in the air, everywhere you look around, with fresh new nail colours, looks and trends that abound.

R

evitalise your nail polish wardrobe and forget your woes, as you peel off the gloves and kick off those boots, transforming your tips and toes with a kaleidoscope of shades that say, ‘anything goes’.

Ease into the season as the warm weather awakes, with sophisticated pastels and subtle dusky hues that declare you’ve got what it takes.

Like fresh blossoms, delicate pinks are the new nudes, blooming into brighter, fruity and floral shades of delectable raspberry, or elusive periwinkle. Warm peach echoes a girlish charm that is friendly and accessible, while pallid plum and crisp limpet shell are just perfect to exude a definitive femininity, which is bound to do well.

Wearing all white is clean and refreshing, in either delicate marshmallow or solid alpine snow, a perfect canvas to splash hints of colour like a unique Van Gogh. For some glitz and glamour, add some muted, pearlised and multifaceted glitters that look like your

Flip Flops Crop Tops Nail File Issue 10 September 2016

I'm Getting A TanGerine

Style Savvy

Mango Ice

21

CrémeDeLaCréme

nails have been touched by butterfly kisses.

Be youthful, classic or preppy in unexpected shades that will do you no harm, in luscious lime or a flash of bright forest green – it’s unique and energising, yet calm.

Have fun in buttercup yellow, like a ray of sunshine to make you feel warm, cheerful and mellow. Tone it down in an earthy iced coffee or warm taupe, or be understated in neutral yet edgy lilac grey. You can bling it up with a coat of shimmering silver, or marvelous metallic, for an edgier, more state of the art manicure that will definitely liven up your day.

Are you feeling the blues? Then like a river that runs deep, relax and escape in a variety of must have hues, from soft and airy dependable shades like serenity or oceanic blue, to brighter, bolder snorkel and royal blue. This expressive, sophisticated, easy to wear colour will leave you feeling like new. If blue is too cool, have a fiesta on your nails with tantalising talons in orangey or classic post box reds that are super hot.

Sexy Plunge

B Gentle

B Caring

Catch My Drift

Girls Love Bouys

Aqua-intance

Seen On The Scene

Be Demure

Nail File Issue 10 September 2016

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Nail Competition

WINNING WAYS Showcase Nail Art Competition

We are proud to present the finalists in the Nail File Showcase Nail Art Competition.

PHOTOGRAPHIC NAIL ART CATEGORY

Yellow Woman

by Alina Kuzmenko

New Life

by Florinda Hearn

Phantom Of The Opera

by Elize Willemse

Wild Woman

by Alina Kuzmenko

Nail File Issue 10 September 2016

Hartenbos

by Chelandé Loots

Nail Competition

Restrained Glamour

by Katia Da Silva

23

Huntsman Winter War

by Alexandra Schäfer

Mermaids & Life Under The Sea

by Jessie Scott-Turner

Feeling Like A Superhero

by Anette Coetzee

Moulin Rouge

by Chantel Smith

Snow Queen

by Robyn Shannon Hamm

Nail File Issue 10 September 2016

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Nail Competition

WINNING WAYS Showcase Nail Art Competition

TIP BOX NAIL ART – JUNGLE BOOK THEME FINALISTS

Tammy-Lee Knoetze

Chantel Smith

Nail File Issue 10 September 2016

Alina Kuzmenko

QUEEN NEW YORK HAIR & COSMETICS Shop 22 Broadacres Shopping Centre, Cnr Valley and Cedar Road, Fourways T: +27 11 051 9857 | +27 11 024 1422 I +27 11 467 3687 E: hope@queennewyork.com | info@qny.co.za W: www.queennewyork.com I www.qny.co.za

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In the Market

Product

HUB

Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails.

Direct from Washington The women of Washington DC represent strength and vision, which is why OPI is delighted to partner with Hollywood actress Kerry Washington.

The Washington DC Collection palette reflects a sophisticated twist on classic fall shades – winter squash, crimson reds, earthy browns, rustic gold, dusky blue and lush green.

011 325 1000

Light up

Sweets for the nails

The QNY Violet LED Gel lamp has an automatic five-second lamp, with a high-accuracy hand sensor. Its fan speeds up the curing process. The lamp features 14 high-power LED 395mm, one long-life CCFL UV light for both builder gel and polish gel, a metal mirror frame and steel mesh CCFL protection net wire. No bulb replacement needed.

LCN’s Jelly Beans, described as a magic potion for beautifully growing nails, is a waterbased texture containing encapsulated, blue micro beads with vitamins.

Active ingredients and plant extracts provide nails with lots of moisture.

Jelly Beans simultaneously regenerates the nail and promotes growth.

011 024 1422

Nail File Issue 10 September 2016

010 593 3293

In the Market

27

Essential items Morgan Taylor’s Essentials range comprises Remedy Renewing Cuticle Oil and ReAnimate Lacquer Thinner, two high efficacy products with fast-acting and mild formulas.

The cornerstone of these products is Bio-Organic Complex with Panthenol – a vitamin and mineral complex that creates a protective coating around the skin’s keratin protein structure.

011 447 0659

Neutral power Young Nails’ Caption 2016 Everyday Collection consists of eight neutral and under-the-radar shades that are inspired by every skin tone. This is a stylish and practical mix of sheers and crèmes – classic nudes that are must-haves for barely there looks. Shades vary from pale beige to peach to pink to ivory to grey and classic deep brown.

011 393 2791

Africa Professional Nail Distributors of Andreia gel nail polish, gel and acrylic products for more info visit our website and view our product ranges.

Website: africaprofessionalnaildistributors.com Email: africapronails@gmail.com Contact: Hilda Moreira 072 941 1023

Nail File Issue 10 September 2016

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Know your Chemicals

going

BEHIND PRODUCT

CLAIMS

Have you ever wondered what the terms ‘chemical free’, paraben free’, ‘non-toxic’, ‘natural’ and ‘organic’ really mean?

Sonette van Rensburg provides some valuable insight.

C

laims are often made in terms of the ingredients found in professional nail products, as well as a lot of cosmetics in fact. These claims are made in the form of terms such as ‘chemical free’, ‘paraben free’, ‘non-toxic’, ‘natural’, and ‘100% organic’. They have caused a lot of concern in the industry, with some professionals and consumers believing that unless products make these claims, they are harmful and you should not use or buy them.

Because many of these terms are often misunderstood and misinterpreted, leading to confusion, it’s important to clarify them.

Chemical free What we need to remember is that practically everything around us is of a chemical composition, even water, milk, vitamins Nail File Issue 10 September 2016

and food, so we simply can’t live without chemicals. If the truth be told, it would be impossible to create a product with no ingredients and, regardless of whether they are naturally derived or synthetic, they are all still chemicals. This means that there is no such thing as a chemical free product.

Some chemicals can be dangerous, even in tiny amounts, and are not suited for salon use. Rest assured though that high quality, authentic professional products with a proven track record are formulated to be as safe as possible.

Know your Chemicals News

29

Paraben free There has been plenty of controversy over parabens, which are commonly used to prevent microbial growth in cosmetics, both to protect consumers and to maintain product integrity.

Parabens occur naturally and they are also responsible for preserving food and cosmetics, among other things. What you need to ask yourself is whether it is safer to expose yourself to harmful bacteria, or to small amounts of parabens. There is also divided opinion as to the extent that parabens may (or may not) be harmful.

Non-toxic We learn from an early age to do things in moderation and that if we follow this simple rule, we won’t get harmed. The same goes for any ingredient or product. The small quantities of chemicals that we are exposed to in professional nail products will not harm us.

However, think about what would happen if you ingested huge amounts of a so-called harmful chemical or ingredient on a regular basis, which is obviously unlikely, but it would definitely not be very safe or healthy.

Select products based on their long-term performance, ease-of-use and the quality of the education provided, and not on marketing buzz words.

Organic and natural Organic substances are mostly composed of carbon, and since all living things are carbonbased, they are ‘organic’. Just about everything on Earth, with the exception of rock, sand, air, metals and water is organic. The vast majority of cosmetic ingredients are organic and so are plastic containers, caps, ink and labels.

Nature is filled with poisonous and harmful substances. Many people suffer from allergies to plants, pollen, cats, dust mites, peanuts and other substances, which are all ‘natural’. Everything ‘natural’ is also 100% chemical, so assuming that a ‘natural’ product is safer and better would be a misconception. Just about any type of product can claim to be organic and natural, including every type of artificial nail enhancement product.

I would recommend that you not choose your products simply because they claim to be any of the above, but that you rather select products based on their long-term performance, ease-ofuse and the quality of the education provided, and not on marketing buzz words.

Remember – the more you understand about the meaning of the above terms, the better the choices you will make. Don’t be fooled; be informed.

I would like to thank internationally recognised scientist, Doug Schoon, for his input regarding the above information.

Nail File Issue 10 September 2016

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Step by Step

Colourful dots This delightfully dotty design was created by Lilian Lee of Calgel.

Apply a coat of clear Calgel and cure. Add two coats of black Calgel (BK01),

1

3

Apply a thin coat of clear Calgel as a wet base, do not cure.

2

Load a small amount of white Calgel (WH04) onto a marble brush and randomly place dots of different sizes on the uncured wet base, then cure.

By mixing a small amount of Calgel colour gel with clear Calgel, you can produce a unique translucent colour. Prepare some translucent colours by mixing yellow (YE01), blue (BL07), green (GR01) with clear Calgel.

4 Nail File Issue 10 September 2016

Step by Step

Place the translucent colour gels on different areas on top of the white dots, then cure.

5

7

31

Apply a coat of Calgel Top Gel, then cure.

6 COMPLETED

NAILS

Nail File Issue 10 September 2016

32

Step by Step

PantonePOWER This dreamy ombre nail art look that incorporates Pantone’s Colours of the Year (Rose Quartz and Serenity), was created for Looking Good LCN by Franzelle de Villiers.

1

Model a full set paper forms with LCN FirberTech Gel – Milky Pink.

2 Nail File Issue 10 September 2016

Use the 2016 Pantone Colours of the Year – LCN Recolution Rose Quartz and Serenity – to do a diagonal ombre, flowing from one nail to the other. To create the ombre effect, first paint a thin layer of the darker colour (Serenity), then a thin layer of the lighter colour (Rose Quartz). Brush off all excess product from the lighter colour’s brush and start blending the two colours with feather light strokes, working vertically. Cure and repeat.

If you struggle to create the ombre effect and keep getting a line, try to incorporate a lighter colour and brush in the middle of the two colours before you cure.

Remember that the colours must not be cured before you blend them.

Step by Step

33

3

Use Black Acrylic Paint and a thin nail art brush to do the design of a complete Dandelion, 'blowing' over to the other nails.

4

COMPLETED NAILS

S eal nails with LCN Ultra LCN Shine Sealant.

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34

Step by Step

DancingQUEEN These dazzling looks were created using colours from Bio Sculpture Gel’s Disco Dolly Collection.

1

• Select a Colour Gel. Cut pieces with different shapes and sizes from nail foil.

• Apply a Bio Sculpture Gel Base layer. Cure.

• Apply two layers of Colour Gel. Cure each layer.

• Follow with a grip layer of Soft Gel. Cure.

• Arrange the foil shapes from big to small using the Bio SculptureTweezers, creating a shattered glass effect.

Flatten foil with a metal pick.

• Apply the appropriate Strengthening Gel and cure.

• Nail cleanse and refine.

• Apply Gloss Gel and cure.

2

• Apply a Bio Sculpture Base layer. Cure.

• Apply two layers of Colour Gel. Cure each layer.

• Follow with a grip layer of Soft Gel. Cure.

• Nail cleanse.

• Create the detailed design by drawing lines with the tip of the Upper Arch Brush. Select four different colours to achieve this design. Cure.

• Repeat until the desired affect is achieved.

• Follow with a layer of Soft Gel. Do not cure.

• Place gems onto wet gel using the tip of the Metal Pick, dipped into Soft Gel. Cure.

• Apply the appropriate Strengthening Gel and seal the nail art.

Cure.

• Nail cleanse and refine.

• Apply Gloss Gel for shine. Cure.

Nail File Issue 10 September 2016

Step by Step

35

Dancing • Select five Colour Gels.

3

• Apply a Bio Sculpture Gel Base layer. Cure.

• Apply two layers of Colour Gel. Cure each layer.

• Use the no. 6 Round Gel Brush with the second Colour Gel and apply brush strokes randomly over the nail. Cure.

• Use the Art Brush with the third Colour Gel to apply small brush strokes randomly over the nail. Cure.

• Draw triangles with the fourth Colour Gel and the Upper Arch Brush as required. Cure.

• Apply a layer of no. 209 Colour Gel over the entire nail. Cure.

• Follow with a layer of the appropriate Strengthening Gel. Cure.

4

• Nail cleanse and refine.

• Apply Gloss Gel and cure.

• Select three Colour Gels and nail art studs/gems/jewellery.

• Apply a Bio Sculpture Gel Base layer. Cure.

• Follow with two layers of Colour Gel. Cure each layer.

• Create circles of different sizes with the second Colour Gel using the Upper Arch Brush. Cure each circle.

• Add big and smaller circles with the third Colour Gel. Cure each circle.

• Apply a grip layer of Soft Gel. Do not cure.

• Place art on the wet gel as required using the Metal Pick and a droplet of Soft Gel. Cure.

• Apply the appropriate Strengthening Gel and cure.

• Nail Cleanse and refine.

Nail File Issue 10 September 2016

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Nail File Issue 10 September 2016

38

Q&A

Top Tech Talk This issue of Nail File puts the spotlight on leading nail tech and Calgel educator, Nadia Erasmus of Nadz Hope Nails & Beauty.

At the time of going to press, Erasmus had been announced as a finalist in the Nail Technician of the Year category in the 2016 Professional Beauty Awards.

WHAT FIRST SPARKED YOUR INTEREST IN NAILS? My mother bought me a nail kit when I finished matric at the age of 16, when I didn’t yet know what I would like to do for a living, although I knew it would have to be something artistic. I would have loved to sing or dance. But, by practising with the kit my mother had bought me, my passion changed, and I realised just how artistic nails can be.

Nail File Issue 10 September 2016

Q&A

39

WHERE DID YOU TRAIN AND/OR LEARN YOUR CRAFT? The first course I completed was at Professional Nail and Beauty in 2011. But I only became a real artist by the time I fully understood what quality nails should look like. I have also done a Calgel standard course, where I was asked by their Africa educator, Lillian Lee, to become an educator for the brand in 2013. So I did my training and qualified.

I BELIEVE YOU OFFER NAIL SERVICES WITHIN THE STYLE ON CUE HAIR SALON AT THE GLENGARRY SHOPPING CENTRE – WHEN DID YOU FIRST START THIS VENTURE? I started working from Style on Cue in the year of 2015, just a year after I returned from Abu Dhabi.

DO YOU ENVISAGE HAVING A STANDALONE SALON AT SOME STAGE? Oh yes. I am hoping to have my own salon by the end of September this year.

DO YOU CURRENTLY DO ALL THE NAIL SERVICES YOURSELF OR DO YOU EMPLOY OTHER TECHS TO HELP YOU? Yes, I do all the services myself. I have not yet employed other nail techs as I would first like to set up my own salon before doing so. My clients, however, have warned me that they will not go to any other technician, so I’m stuck with them for life, which I definitely don’t mind at all. Each client I have has supported me so much in what I have done in the past few years; every single one of them has helped me become what I am today.

Nail File Issue 10 September 2016

40

News Q &A

WHAT ARE YOUR MOST POPULAR SERVICES?

WHEN WERE YOU FIRST EXPOSED TO THE CALGEL BRAND?

I would have to say that gel sculptures is one of the most popular services, apart from nail art of course. There really is a huge demand for nail art, not that I mind, although sometimes I think my clients feel obligated to have nail art.

I first got to know the Calgel brand at the 2013 Professional Beauty Expo in Cape Town, where Lilian Lee did a demo on one of my nails and couldn’t believe that my set of nails had been done by myself, as both my hands were covered in art. What a proud moment for me that was, that an artist as amazing as her could say something so humbling to a junior technician like myself. Watching the way Lilian worked with the gel was absolutely mesmerising to me.

HAVE YOU DISCERNED ANY PARTICULAR NAIL ART TRENDS OVER THE LAST SIX MONTHS? Yes I have, a few actually. My clients love challenging me so when I have time to try out certain trends, I go for it. I do my best to grant my clients’ wishes.

WHERE DO YOU GET INSPIRATION FOR YOUR NAIL ART? Wow! Now this is a nail bitter question as I actually have no idea. I guess it all depends on the type of client, and if the client lets me do my own design. I don’t like copying designs from other technicians, so I try to keep it original.

PLEASE DESCRIBE THE NAIL ART LOOK THAT YOU HAVE CREATED AND ARE MOST PROUD OF.

LAST YEAR YOU TOOK ON DISTRIBUTION FOR THE BRAND IN CAPE TOWN – HOW IS THAT GOING?

I would have to say that would be my butterfly.

It was the first art that I tried and people loved it. I remember Lilian Lee introducing me as ‘the Butterfly Girl’ when I was in Johannesburg for my Calgel educator’s licence.

It’s going great. Since my return from the UAE, the training and distribution has picked up tremendously. I have about five courses every three months, and I am doing a nail art training workshop for Capri Beauty in Brackenfell.

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU OFFER SOMEONE WHO WANTS TO ENTER THE NAIL INDUSTRY? Hard work is a must. Sitting and hoping success is just going to fall in your lap is a no-go.

I am working seven days a week at the moment because I have set goals that I have to reach.

And most importantly, never ever give up on yourself because there is no dream too big.

Nail File Issue 10 September 2016

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