Nail File Jan-Feb 2017

Page 31

Know your chemicals Occasion Nails

The nail plate is made up of numerous tiny cells containing proteins called keratin, of which there are two types: crystalline and non-crystalline.

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microscopes, and are surrounded by a gel-like substance made from non-crystalline keratin, which helps to suspend, support and protect each crystalline bundle. The crystalline gel also helps to regulate the flow of water and oils which pass through the nail plate, making it hydrophilic (i.e. oil and moisture loving). The oil and moisture in the nail plate is what makes it tough, resilient and shock-absorbent.

Inter-locking connection

Each nail cell is connected to the next one by an inter-locking connection and doorway called a desmosome. There are several desmosomes connecting each nail cell to several other nail cells, forming a huge network of nail cells that fit together, just like a carefully composed jigsaw puzzle. This interlocked mass of keratin fibres packed into millions of adjoining cells is what makes up the nail plate. These tiny nail cells are also surrounded by a blend of natural oils, filling the narrow spaces between each cell. The proteins that make up the keratinous nail plate are made from amino acids, which are bonded to one another in long chains, containing between 5 000 and 100 000 amino acids, linking up just like a string of beads and held together by chemical bonds, known as covalent bonds. Don’t underestimate the strength of these bonds, they are one of the most important and strongest forms of chemical bonds, and contribute to the durability and strength of the nail plate. Sulphur crosslinks further strengthen keratin through covalent bonds that are created between two separate protein chains, joining together just like the rungs on a ladder, constructing a supertough structure. This structure makes the surface of the nail plate highly resistant to stains and the damaging effects of solvents and other harsh chemicals. The nail plate contains many more cross-links than hair, which is why it is so much tougher and has the ability to resist breaking and cracking.

I would like to thank internationally renowned product chemist, Doug Schoon, for letting me source information for the above from his Nail Plate Construction Zone article. Contact: dschoon@cox.net

Nail File Issue 12

Jan/Feb 2017


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