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Issue 12

Jan/Feb 2017

Everlasting love

Most popular colours

What’s in a nail? Chemical make up

Crafty concessions Discounting

trickycustomer Is the client always right?


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WHAT’S INSIDE NAIL FILE

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20

35

4

20

30/32/34

Industry News

Stlye Savvy

Step by steps

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22

Ask the Experts

Top Tech Talk

Stay in the know

Is the client is always right? If not, how do we deal with it?

15 Business

The perennials

Lucia Oosthuizen

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Winning Ways

Professional Beauty North Nail Championships

Product Hub

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17

Latest technology

Buff Beauty Parlour

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In the Market

Should I ever discount my services and use discounting platforms?

Salon Focus

Water colour Swirl Glue be gone

Science to the fore

28 Know your chemicals The natural nail’s best kept secret

Nail File Issue 11

Jan/Feb 2017


Issue 12

Jan/Feb 2017

Everlasting love

Most popular colours

What’s in a nail?

Cover: Shutterstock

Chemical make up

Crafty concessions

Discounting

Tricky customer Is the client always right?

NAIL FILE

A Professional Beauty Supplement Published by T.E. Trade Events 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970 / Fax: 011 781 6079 Additional pics: www. shutterstock.com

Publisher Mark Moloney mark@professionalbeauty.co.uk Editor Joanna Sterkowicz joanna@probeauty.co.za Art Director Alois Sajanga alois@fmexpo.org Technical Consultant Sonette van Rensburg sonette@probeauty.co.za

WELCOME A

t the beginning of each year, we all wonder what lies in store for us. Well, one thing’s for sure – in terms of nails, 2017 holds the promise of a steady stream of wonderful new colours and collections. That’s the great constant about professional nail brands – they will always have beautiful new colours to launch, making the lives of nail techs (and their clients) all the more exciting. While on the subject of colour, in our Style Savvy section we asked brands to send us some of their most popular colours of all time. As any nail tech will know, there are just some shades that will always endure in terms of popularity, even in the face of the wonderful barrage of new colours each season brings. This issue of Nail File focuses on the all-important question – is the client always right? Anyone who is trained in the service industry will always be taught that the client is king and, therefore, inevitably correct. But what happens with clients who prove problematic, just to try and get free treatments or reduced rates, for example? Or, how do you handle clients who are difficult, just for the sake of being difficult? This is the conundrum that we posed to our esteemed panel of experts, who each take pains to explain how to handle the situation when it is obvious to the nail tech, or salon-owner, that the client is not in the right. Nail File is always on the lookout for lovely nail salons to feature in our Salon Focus section. In this issue you will find a genuinely quirky nail salon with a difference, namely Buff Beauty Parlour in Umhlanga in KwaZulu-Natal. Have a look for yourself! Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

Advertising Sales 011 781 5970

TO ADVERTISE in Nail File, please call 011 781 5970 TO CONTRIBUTE TO EDITORIAL, contact Joanna TO JOIN THE CONVERSATION Visit www.probeauty.co.za and follow us on Facebook and Twitter.

Nail File Issue 12

Jan/Feb 2017


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News

NEWS

Information at your fingertips

Calgel on the move Japanese-owned, South Africa-founded professional nail brand, Calgel, has moved from its old premises in Jeppestown, Johannesburg, to the Mount Royal Office Park in Midrand.

Lilian Lee

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ays Calgel office manager, Luanda Else: “Previously Calgel was spread across two separate buildings in Jeppestown and we had excess floor space that we were not using. In addition, it became apparent that nail techs were unwilling to come to Jeppestown for our training workshops, so we always had to hire external venues.

“Therefore, it made sense to centralise our operations. The new premises, which are situated at the Mount Royal Office Park on James Crescent, are much better for our purposes and more compact in that we have everything under one roof. Our ‘Clean Room’ (ie. dust-free factory), packaging department and warehouse are on the lower floor, while the first floor houses our offices, training room and conference room. This allows us to streamline our operations in a single location that is easily accessible and that gives us room to expand.”

Else notes that the move itself, which took place in November, was a complex and timeconsuming process, as the factory had to be moved before the other departments.

Nail technician at the workshop

Nail File Issue 12

Jan/Feb 2017

At the time of going to press in mid-December, the new Calgel head office had already hosted its first training workshop, namely

the Christmas Nail Art workshop presented by Calgel’s head of education, Lilian Lee. “This was the first themed workshop that we’ve run,” comments Lee. “In the past we have always run the Calgel Nail Art Level 1 and Level 2 workshops, for novices and advanced nail techs respectively, as well as a conversion course for those salons/nail techs who wish to switch to Calgel as their professional brand of choice.

“In 2017 we plan to run regular themed workshops throughout the year that will focus on nail art suited to particular events, such as Valentine’s Day, Easter, etc.”

In the meantime, Calgel sales representative, Elaine Timcke, has been visiting salons and creating awareness around the Calgel brand. “The market can look forward to exciting new Calgel colours early in 2017,” adds Else.


News Occasion Nails

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Young Nails’ night of ‘Colour and Fun’ Some 100 guests attended the Young Nails 15th Annual Year-End Function, held in late October at the Nicci Beach Ultra Lounge at Wild Waters, Boksburg. The event was themed ‘Colour and Fun’ and all prizes were sponsored by Yolande Bekker and Young Nails.

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nce a year we all get together – staff, mentors, distributors, students, independent nail techs and friends,” says Young Nails marketing and brand manager, Xandia Greeff. “It is a night where we don’t come together as colleagues, but as a family, to share in the love for the industry, our businesses and our passion. We started the night off with a blank canvas and ended it by celebrating the colour of life.” The following award winners were announced at the event:

Student of the Year: Lindo Ngwenya  (Ngwenya was trained by Charné Naudé at Young Nails Middelburg. She placed 3rd in the Professional Beauty Novice Competition 2016.) Salon of the Year: Young Nails Jeffreys Bay

Nail Tech of the Year Runner-Up: Dánette Whelan – Nail Candy (Whelan placed 1st in the Professional Beauty Novice Competition 2016)

Pics by Ruan de Beer Photography

Student of the Year Runner-Up: Danika Daniz (Daniz was trained by Yolande Bekker at Young Nails Kempton Park, and placed 2nd in the Professional Beauty Novice Competition 2016.)

Nail Tech of the Year: Robyn Shannon (Shannon placed 2nd in the Nail File Showcase Nail Art Competition – Photographic Category) Distributor of the Year Runner-Up: Charné Naudé – Young Nails Middelburg Distributor of the Year: Morné Louw – Young Nails Pretoria

Most Students Trained for 2016: Tessa Tullues – Young Nails Montana Mentor of the Year Runner-Up: Liezl Roch – Young Nails Glenvista (Johannesburg South)

Mentor of the Year: Angeleque Cilliers – Young Nails Roodepoort

Student of the year

Nail Tech of the year

Nail File Issue 12

Jan/Feb 2017


We have moved! Please visit us in Midrand for exciting new training programs and product purchases. Contact us for more information.

Cal-Mo (Pty) Ltd. T 011 624 1101 C 072 745 4922

E info@cal-mo.com W www.cal-mo.com FB https://www.facebook.com/CalgelSOUTHAFRICA


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News

PCG launches OPI ‘Tiffany’s’ collection South African OPI distributor, the Prestige Cosmetics Group (PCG), launched the once-off Breakfast at Tiffany’s collection in early November to arm OPI stockists for the holiday season.

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he collection was inspired by the iconic Audrey Hepburn film of the same name, and embodies all the classic glamour and stylish elegance that Hepburn became known for in Hollywood.

At the collection’s launch event hosted at PCG’s head office at CAVI Campus, a ‘play table’ was set up so that stockists and media could sample the colours. The Breakfast at Tiffany’s Collection is available in nail lacquer and GelColour, with six of the 12 colours available in the Infinite Shine gel polish range. In the latest news from OPI, co-founder Suzi Weiss-Fischmann has announced that US musician, model and social media sensation, Pyper America Smith, has been appointed as brand ambassador for the Long-Wear Lacquer Line. Smith plays bass guitar in the family surfrock bank, The Atomics.

Franchise introduces kid’s menu Dream Nails Beauty salons now offer specially tailored nail treatments for children under the age of 12.

The Candi Crush Mani and the Twinkle Toes Pedi treatment regimen includes: sanitising of hands and feet; nail cutting and shaping (optional); cuticle care; hand and foot massage; and application of base, colour or glitter, and top coat nail enamel. Says Dream Nails Beauty brand manager, Ryno Mulder: “Children’s wellness is a worldwide growing trend. As many moms bring their children along to their Dream Nails Beauty appointments, our kid’s treatments are an ideal way for families to spend quality time together while getting pampered.

“Imbalie Beauty Academy is the training division of Imbalie, franchisor of Dream Nails Beauty, and the kid’s treatment is part of the Dream Nails creative therapist curriculum. The Dream Nails Beauty ethos is about individuality and that each client knows best what looks great on them. If a client is old enough to pick her nail colour, she is old enough to wear nail enamel.” Nail File Issue 12

Jan/Feb 2017


News Occasion Nails

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LCN on show Looking Good LCN hosted a beauty exhibition at its head office in Pretoria East late last year to showcase the LCN nails, feet, make-up and equipment ranges.

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ays LCN’s Lea Castro: “The event was a great success, so much so that we had to extend it by an extra week, as there was an influx of customers and consumers who came to see what the hype was all about.

“We had approximately 50 nail techs and salonowners joining us over this period. In addition, we also signed up some new salons that will join us for training early this year.”

According to Castro, the focus at the exhibition was mainly on the ‘Lovely Christmas World’ range for the festive season. She continues: “We also focused on our new ‘Provoking Divas’ trend and both consumers and salons went crazy about the new Bling nail polishes. “We have held exhibitions like this in Port Elizabeth, Northern Cape, Western Cape and Durban. Our plan is to do more in these areas during 2017, as well as in Bloemfontein, Nelspruit, North West and Limpopo,” states Castro.

In other news, Bondique, LCN’s highly elastic 3-in-1 self-levelling system (bond, build and seal), came 1st in the Beauty Forum Readers’ Choice Awards 2015/2016 in the Nail-UV Gel category. In addition, the LCN Anti Age Hand Cream came 2nd in the Hand and Nail Care category.

EVO salon opens in Pretoria

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he unveiling of the of the new section at Menlyn Park Shopping Centre in Pretoria on 28 November marked the opening of Bio Sculpture Gel’s second EVO Boutique Salon. In style with the flagship EVO Salon in Mimosa Mall Bloemfontein, Menlyn EVO boasts three manicure stations and two pedicure stations, offering the full range of Bio Sculpture and EVO treatments, along with all Bio Sculpture spa and retail products.

Nail File Issue 12

Jan/Feb 2017


CAPE TOWN 26 & 27 MARCH 2017 THE LOOK OUT AT THE WATERFRONT

Education Innovation Inspiration CAPE TOWN LOOK OUT!

THE EXHIBITION

This year Professional Beauty is changing, bringing you not only the leading brands from South Africa but also a new and exciting range of seminars and workshops, providing education, innovation and inspiration.

Not only are we bringing you this fantastic educational opportunity, the exhibition will feature many of the top brands and suppliers with new products, special offers and innovation for you to see, all under one roof.

SKINCARE & TECHNOLOGY

ADVANCED TREATMENTS & MEDICAL AESTHETICS

From the latest skin technology to lasers and the rest, get up to date information and guidance on the latest innovation.

Mesotherapy, Cryotherapy, Microblading and much more will be explained in full to give you all the information you need about these procedures and treatments

BUSINESS SKILLS & KNOWLEDGE

NAIL TECHNOLOGY & TECHNIQUES

Giving you essential tools to make a success of your business. Ranging from social media planning to pricing for profit.

If you work with nails you should attend these seminars. Charging to make a profit, the latest techniques, styles and ideas.

New Venue

New Concept

Visit www.probeauty.co.za to get the full details on this must attend event and book your place for these superb seminars.


Ask the experts Occasion Nails

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QUESTION: We’re taught that the client is always right. Are there any instances when this is not the case, and how do we deal with it? SAM BIDDLE This statement can be taken completely out of context; we are in the service industry, and, yes, to some extent we are there to make sure the client feels nurtured. However, we as nail professionals seem to allow our clients to walk all over us, and we forget that we know best. After all, we paid for our training, right? Recently I was teaching a manicure class, and a nail tech told me her clients would insist on soaking their fingernails in water during a manicure, even though we know that for longlasting gel polish, a dry manicure is better. I asked her if her gel polish lasted, and she said no and that her clients complain. It seemed obvious to me that the solution would be to explain the issue to her clients. This poor nail tech looked horrified at the thought of saying no to clients. It was at this point that I thought I should remind her of the time and money she has invested in

her career, and that the knowledge she has far outweighs that of the clients, and that she really should consider being a little tougher. Clients are not likely to respect you if you don’t exert some level of authority in what you are trained to do. This authority gives your clients a level of security, and they feel safe allowing you to call the shots. This is just one example, and, trust me, I have had experience (and heard) of many more. But ultimately we must remain true to our training and trust that we know what we are talking about and not be afraid to remind the client that they are paying for a service and that you want to provide them with the very best.

Sam Biddle is renowned worldwide as a nail technician and educator. She is an international judge and competition winner and the creative director of Jealous Cow Ltd.

Nail File Issue 12

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Ask the experts

LEA CASTRO Customers are essential to the success of any business, because no customers – no business. The question is – is the customer always right? Often they are not, but how do you handle this?

Customer service is a crucial element to building a strong and healthy business. The way we handle customers and difficult situations is part of building a good reputation. Integrity and good business ethics are vital; however, challenging situations can be quite difficult to deal with. A key factor is to identify with the customer so that they feel that you are willing to hear them out. Therefore, listening to the full story is important, as is using key phrases like: ‘I understand’; ‘Allow me to…’; ‘No problem’; and ‘I will see what I can do’. These phrases help the customer to feel that you want to assist them. Never dive straight in to try to solve the problem – neutralise the situation first and then you will find the client to be more understanding. So yes, the customer is always right in their own eyes and it is your responsibility to solve the problem while making them believe they were right all along. Are you up for the challenge? It takes practice and skill!

Lea Castro is the CEO of Looking Good LCN. Service excellence and empowering people remains her top priority as she enlarges the nail industry.

Nail File Issue 12

Jan/Feb 2017


Ask the experts Occasion Nails

SONETTE VAN RENSBURG At some point in a nail professional’s career there comes a time when you wonder whether the client is in fact always right, as that is what you were always taught. Uncomfortable situations will arise between a client and either you or your staff at some point. As a professional we try our best to give our clients the best possible service at all times, however when you get a call or a visit from an irate client it can leave you not knowing how to deal with it. The big question is: how do you deal with a client when you really feel that it was not your fault and that they are possibly just taking advantage of a situation to get a free service or treatment? The one thing I always teach nail professionals is that they should remember that is not what you say, but rather how you say something, that can make a difference, and that they should learn to listen and recognise when a situation is actually their fault or that of the client. But we can’t tell a client outright that they are in the wrong. When you are faced with a client who is screaming so much that they don’t allow you to get a word in, politely usher them to a quiet area and give them the opportunity to calm down and then talk the situation through. Ask both the client and nail professional relevant questions to establish whether the problem arose due to something the

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client could have done to affect her service, but do so individually to avoid an argument. Then you will be able to assess the situation properly and make an informed decision as to how you need to deal with it. Make sure you protect yourself, your salon and your staff by having policies and procedures in place, for example guarantees on your services and treatments, and also return policies with a maximum time period.

Ensure you complete a consultation form for each client and update it regularly. Always give your client proper advice about home care for service longevity. Be as professional as possible at all times in the way you execute your treatments, how you communicate with clients and how you deal with situations.

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the industry for 27 years. She consults with salons and spas and trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail technology.

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Ask the experts

YVETTE NEL A client is always a client and we are there to deliver the best service to clients. Without clients we cannot offer services or retail our fabulous products. The client is KING! The nail and beauty industry forms part of hospitality, which can be defined as: ‘the friendly and generous reception and entertainment of guests, visitors, or strangers’. We are not there to argue with clients, but rather to provide our service to them as if they are royalty.

Say, for instance, a client came for a gel nail enhancement service and had the expectation of the durability and strength of liquid & powder, but received the flexibility and movement of a gel. This does not mean you have done the service incorrectly, but rather that her expectation

was not met. Client consultation, education and recommendation are of vital importance. Clients very often hear about something and fall in love with the ‘idea’ of this wonderful service, yet it does not necessarily meet their specific needs. Therefore, the most important question to ask a client before starting product application is: What is your expectation?

If consultation, education and recommendation were not done by the nail professional and the client returns dissatisfied – it is best to be accommodating. Never avoid the problem, or the client, as they may never return and it could result in negative marketing.

Yvette Nel started out in 2002 as a passionate nail technician working with all nail systems. Nel is a diverse health and beauty industry influencer, with 14 years of experience in salon, sales, marketing, education and distribution. Nail File Issue 12

Jan/Feb 2017


Business

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To be,

OR NOT TO BE (ON A DISCOUNTING PLATFORM) Sonette van Rensburg examines the pros and cons of using discounting platforms to promote your business.

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ith the very competitive nail industry we find ourselves in today and salons popping up all over the place, it is so important to make sure you place yourself and your business front and centre to attract new clients.

There are so many different ways and platforms available at our disposal nowadays to advertise and promote one’s business, like social media and discount deal websites, that it can become quite daunting and confusing as to which is going to be the right one for you. Whichever route you decide to take and how you go about it is what will make a big difference to the success of your business, as there are pros and cons with all of them. What may work for some may not necessarily work for you.

Daily deal sites like Groupon (which closed its South African site in November 2016) and many others seem to particularly draw salons in to participate in this type of advertising, because of their incredible reach. However these sites, with their skilfully written advertising, specifically target subscribers who are just waiting with bated breath for a good deal to pop up. Through offering profoundly discounted prices and incentives on salon services and treatments, these sites almost guarantee new clients to your business. Nail File Issue 12

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Business

Participating in this type of advertising has its advantages and disadvantages, but I have heard of far more reasons why one should not participate in this type of advertising than why you should. The biggest advantage is that is that there are no upfront costs to run the advertising, and the results are usually quick, attracting loads of new clients. What you need to remember though is that the reason they are coming to your salon in the first place is because of the special deal and therefore may become far more demanding, wanting further discounts and taking your time and attention away from your regular clients. The likelihood of you retaining them as loyal clients is quite slim, as the next time a special deal pops up, they will probably just move on to that. Are these really the type of clients you want to attract into your business?

Requirements Many of these discounting sites have minimum requirements that demand steep discounts for you to be able to join. This then eats into your profits and also compromises and dilutes the quality and standard of your services.

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the industry for 27 years. She consults with salons and spas and trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail technology. Nail File Issue 12

Jan/Feb 2017

The other thing you will need to consider is your staff and whether you have the infrastructure to deal with the phone calls that are going to come flooding in and being able to accommodate these clients. Some salons have been so inundated with bookings through these deals that they have had to extend the expiry date of the deal and, in the process, lose their loyal clients, who are happy to pay full price for their treatments, due to salons not being able to accommodate them. Rather focus on retaining your existing clients and build your business through them by offering incentives and rewards for the number of treatments they have done and for referring friends to you. This will be far more beneficial to your business and will result in repeat and loyal clients. That famous saying – ‘the best form of advertising is through word of mouth’ is definitely true.

Should the opportunity arise for you to partake in this type of advertising, my best advice is to be careful and do some research before just leaping onto the discount deal site bandwagon, as it could be way more stressful and frustrating than it is actually worth and could cost your business dearly.


Salon Nails Focus Occasion

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NAILS IN THE ‘BUFF’ On 1 October last year, the delightfully quirky Buff Beauty Parlour opened in Umhlanga, with the distinction of being Essie’s first-ever flagship salon in South Africa, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

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t’s impossible not to focus on the design and décor of Buff Beauty Parlour, as it is like a retro fantasy land, complete with a 1950’s soda fountain, an Alice In Wonderland-inspired function room and staff adorned in candy-striper styled pinafores. In addition, a larger than life sculpture of the iconic 1930s animated character Betty Boop dominates the retail area. Owned by a local entrepreneurial family – sisters Tracy Gielink and Kim Davidson and their mom, Debbie Davidson, Buff is a stand-alone grooming parlour offering nails, waxing, and lash and brow grooming. In addition to Buff, the family owns the Umhlanga-based Teremok Marine, an award-winning 5-star boutique hotel complete with its own spa.

Commenting on the Buff concept, Tracy Gielink, the salon’s self-designated ‘Boss Lady’, says: “Buff was always going to be a quirky, slightly OTT (Over The Top) space. We believe in evoking all Nail File Issue 12

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Occasion Salon Focus Nails

the senses to create a truly magical experience and, given that the nature of the business sees clients returning monthly, we needed to make sure that there was always going to be something new to discover. “With this in mind we specifically created a space that could only be fully discovered and appreciated over a number of visits. We want clients to come on a journey with us.”

Essie partnership Gielink notes that the family fell in love with the Essie brand personally many years ago because of the polish’s staying power. “Thereafter, when

we launched Teremok Spa, we introduced Essie into our services and have loved their professional products just as much. We have a fantastic Essie rep, Heidi Scott, and it made sense to take the relationship to a new level when we opened Buff.”

Scott adds: “It was Buff ’s unique concept that attracted Essie, and we wanted a salon in the right area with the right business minds behind it, which the family certainly has. They also own The Barnyard Theatre at Gateway. Buff has the whole package – it’s an exceptional salon but with reasonably priced services. “From Essie’s perspective we are always looking to maintain the highest standards in the industry, and the two sisters certainly understand commitment to excellent service levels, as evidenced by their Teremok Hotel and Spa.

“As a flagship salon, Buff will automatically have first access to new Essie products and ranges and will be asked to test products and provide feedback. So they will have a fair amount of input. It’s a real partnership.”

Betty Boop returns Gielink describes the decision to have Betty Boop as Buff ’s inspiration as ‘a light bulb moment.’ She continues: “We suddenly realised that Betty Boop summed up the Buff brand. She was our Nail File Issue 12

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Occasion Salon Nails Focus

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inspiration as she is retro, yet ageless, and definitely has a naughty & nice persona, which we have played on with décor and also retail, such as having Betty’s Boudoir, which sells luxury exotica.” Buff commissioned the ‘super-talented’ artist, Egon Duval of Fantastico, to create Betty’s statue. “Egon spent months lovingly creating her out of fibreglass and handdelivered her from Pretoria. She stands on a red carpet and is the perfect selfie buddie!” states Gielink.

Prime spot Some 230 square metres in size, Buff is situated near Gateway in Umhlanga Ridge, in a precinct that is booming. The family specifically looked for a non-mall venue with lots of natural light and handy off-street parking. Gielink reveals that she has lost count of how many months the family spent planning, reworking and fine-tuning the Buff floor plan and its interior design, although the physical shop-fitting took three months.

“We had created a very specific brand and had clear ideas on how we wanted things to look,” she explains. “All of us have a keen interest in fashion and design and we worked with M&M Space Design, with whom we have worked with for 10 years on other work projects. They get our different personalities and out-of-the-box ideas! “We also have an amazing graphic designer who has been very integral to Buff ’s brand identity. He loved the project and even hand-made some of the items for us, like the emoticons above the pedi station.” Rather than follow standard salon design style, the family opted for a department store protocol. Gielink elaborates: “Firstly, we have no experience in the nail industry so we set about creating a space that we would enjoy as a client and, from there, looked at how we needed to make it an efficient work space. We tend to purposefully steer away from anything stereotypical, so it happened organically.

elements we wanted to incorporate, like ‘Glow’ for the teen market, ‘The Workshop’ for men and ‘The Soda Fountain’ for refreshments. Buff metamorphosed into a beauty emporium and we decided to split treatment areas and intersperse with retail. The non-traditional formation allows us to lure people into the space as they follow the various ‘pods’ we have created.”

Deluxe equipment There are four imported Maletti manicure desks and a pedi area that takes five people comfortably. On the other side of the store is ‘The Nail Station’, a communal area that has been designed to accommodate larger groups, with six mani stations and three pedi stations. ‘The Workshop’ has a barber’s chair which is used for both manis and pedis.

“We are in love with the Maletti manicure desks,” says Gielink, “as they combine form and function with their sleek modern lines and work-friendly surfaces. The Italian design is evident with things like handbag hooks and a built-in extractor system that alleviates dust and the odour often associated with acrylic and gel applications.”

In terms of the public’s response to Buff, Gielink comments that it has been ‘overwhelming and incredibly rewarding’ to see the wonder on people’s faces when they walk through the doors.

“The space seems to evoke a childlike joy – perhaps because we were inspired as much by fantasy as we were by reality,” she concludes.

“The idea was originally to specialise in nails and waxing but we then decided there were other Nail File Issue 12

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Style Savvy

The perennials As the seasons come and go, so do new nail colours. Although it’s great to try out the newbies, there are those all-time favourites that we just keep going back to, time and time again.

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olours contribute to who we are and form part of our signature look; in fact they can become quite a fetish, just like shoes. With nails being the perfect accessory to complete a look, nail colour, be it traditional nail lacquer or gel polish, is a girl’s best friend. What is it about certain colours that we just don’t get tired of and are continuously attracted to? For most of us the perfect polish is a combination of the right shade, consistency, finish and longevity. Is your signature favourite a classic postbox or fire engine red that makes you feel like a Hollywood star, a flattering French in bright white or soft marshmallow topped with a sheer shimmering coat, or perhaps a perfect pastel creamy pink or peachy shade that makes you feel romantic and feminine? Maybe it’s a more practical, barely there natural nude cappuccino-like shade?

Escape to the city in a gracious grey that is understated but sophisticated, or go brown in a warm cocoa shade. Heat things up with hot fuchsia pink, or take a trip to the tropics and complement your tan with a summertime coral. Be dark and beautiful in a rich decadent royal red, bold burgundy or passionate purple shade. If you like to be daring and different in more vivid colours, then sunshine yellow, gregarious green or bright oceanic blue might be more for you. And who could resist a bit of glitter to add some glitz and glamour to your nails and make you feel like a VIP or zillionaire?

Morgan Taylor Manga-round With Me

Gelish BlackShadow

Morgan Taylor Pop-arazzi Pose

Young Nails Mani Q Color Red 101

No matter whether you’re after the hottest and latest shade, or a creature of habit who prefers and feels safe in your favourite colour, there’s no doubt that there is nothing like perfectly polished tips and toes.

Young Nails - Heavenly Glitter Kit Nail File Issue 12

Jan/Feb 2017


Occasion Style Savvy Nails

“ Bio Sculpture Beauty of Perfection

CND Cake Pop

IBD Brazen Beat

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What is it about certain colours that we just don’t get tired of and are continuously attracted to?

Bio Sculpture Favela Sunrise Gel

CND Tropix

Essie Bahama Mama

IBD Yuri Berri

LCN Crazy Blueberry

Essie Boom Boom Boom

LCN Pink Butterfly

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Q&A

Top Tech Talk This issue of Nail File puts the spotlight on Lucia Oosthuizen, operations manager at Sparkle Cosmetics SA and Sparkle Nail Academy’s head of education. WHEN DID YOU FIRST BECOME INTERESTED IN NAILS? In high school, while I worked as a part-time receptionist at our local beauty salon, I was eager to do more. So, when they needed a nail technician, I decided to do a part-time nail course. I then studied for a Diploma in Beauty Technology at Camelot International.

IN WHAT YEAR DID YOU JOIN SPARKLE COSMETICS? It was back in 2012. Before joining the Sparkle Family, I had completed my practical years as a therapist/ nail technician and it wasn’t long until I was given the opportunity to be a parttime lecturer at Camelot International. This was where my passion for education grew into a long-term and full-time lecturing position at Camelot International.

HAD YOU WORKED WITH GELISH, MORGAN TAYLOR AND NAIL & HAND HARMONY PRIOR TO JOINING SPARKLE?

Preparing yourself as a nail technician in all techniques and applications ensures you can provide the best possible service.”

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Yes, ProHesion Liquid and Powder was my first love when working with nail extensions. I was one of the privileged nail technicians who got to attend the first Sparkle International Training workshop with Ghenna Gonzalez. This is where I first developed my passion for the Hand and Nail Harmony brands. The training opened my eyes to the wonderful world of Sparkle; the passion Debbie Kayle showed to uplift and upskill the South Africa nail industry inspired me to become a nail educator. It was at this point that I knew Sparkle Cosmetics was where I would be able to live my dream.


Q&A Occasion Nails

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WHAT HAS BEEN THE HIGHLIGHT OF YOUR CAREER? Being given the opportunity to travel aboard for international educator trainings.

WHY DID YOU DECIDE TO BECOME AN EDUCATOR? As much as I loved doing nail treatments I felt that I have a big mark to leave on the industry. I’ve always loved working with people and helping them to become the best that they can be. By becoming an educator, I could uplift existing nail technicians and have a greater impact on people’s lives.

WHAT IS THE SINGLE MOST IMPORTANT THING THAT YOU TRY TO IMPART TO YOUR STUDENTS? I teach them that: ‘failing to prepare is preparing to fail’. Preparing yourself as a nail technician in all techniques and applications ensures you can provide the best possible service. Sparkle Nail Academy is there to provide the student with the best information to ensure they can prepare themselves to be the best.

IN WHAT AREAS DO YOU THINK SOUTH AFRICAN NAIL TECHS NEED TO IMPROVE? Awakening the passion for what they do every day of their life.

HAVE YOU HAD ANY MENTORS IN THE INDUSTRY? Yes, Antony Buckley, Hand and Nail Harmony’s dean of education

WHAT NAIL ART TRENDS HAVE YOU ASCERTAINED OF LATE, AND WHERE DO YOU THINK SOUTH AFRICAN NAIL ART IS HEADED IN THE FUTURE? The South African industry is not yet bold enough to participate in all the nail art techniques already available. However, I believe that simpler, more elegant, nail art techniques will flourish in our industry. For example, Chrome powder application, colour blocking and simple freehand nail designs, such as lace.

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In the Market

Product

HUB

Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails. Caring threesome

TheraVine’s 3 Phase Nail Care System comprises Cuticle Remover, Cuticle Treatment Oil and the 7 in 1 Miracle Elixir, a complete conditioning programme packed with a keratin-like peptide that provides targeted repair to the most damaged areas of the nail and in doing so adds to the natural keratin found in nails, reinforcing them to prevent breakage.

A real screamer!

Twincare International’s very own Mani Pedi Screaming Beauty range is filled with pampering ingredients that make hands and feet feel silky smooth and soft. The range includes an exfoliator, smoother, softener, soak and massage cream – the soak and massage range are for professional use only.

011 305 1600

021 886 6623

Smooth operator

The CND RidgeFx Nail Surface Enhancer smooths out ridges and masks imperfections for a beautiful colour application, eliminating the need for buffing. Optifil Technology with microspheres fills in ridges and surface indentations, while the unique formula delivers flexibile, chip-resistant wear. It is designed to work with Vinylux self-adhering technology.

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In the Market Occasion Nails

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The ‘smarts’

LCN Smart Active Power is now formulated without Formaldehyde but with Anti-Nailbreak texture. This nail build-up therapy should be applied over a period of four weeks and provides a flexible sealing of nails. Nails will strengthen long term, while nail-splits, as well as breakage, are reduced.

010 593 3293

Optimal base

TruGel Optimize Concealing Base Coat from EzFlow masks nail imperfections flawlessly, while making sheer colours appear more opaque. This soft pink gel polish base coat corrects the look of natural nails by smoothing and filling in ridges to create the perfect canvas.

011 450 0754

Mini-Me

Head over heels

UK-based company Clean Heels has developed a patented ‘heel stopper’ that slips on to any shape or size heel to help prevent your heels from sinking into soft ground or grass. The product features a circular disc to distribute your bodyweight over a large surface area, and a soft plastic tube for the heel. Clean Heels is available through The Lash Collection.

021 555 1517/8

Milk Solutions launches its new Mini-Me kits – the perfect travel companion or gifting solution. Packaged in a stylish Milk Solutions cosmetic bag, these mini-sized products can be easily slipped into a handbag or travel or gym bag. They are also the perfect way to introduce someone to the luxurious and results-driven benefits of the Milk Solutions range.

011 454 8119

The height of elegance

Crisnail has launched its Lacquer Elegance Collection consisting of six beautiful and romantic shades. These include Sahara, Rose Tierra, Purple Tierra, Pink Retro, Pastel Spring, and Pastel Pink.

0861 126 374

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Technology Occasion Nails

SCIENCE TO THE FORE

The nail industry has seen incredible advances in technology and innovation over the years, with the global nail market posting an annual growth of 6%. Sonette van Rensburg looks at the latest technologies on the market

Extended wear polish It’s vital that colour coatings have certain properties and features, including full coverage, chip resistance, superior shine and overall flawless finish, but most importantly, extended wear.

Gel polish is still a very popular service and was first introduced into the market a few years ago, some of the more prevalent being Gelish, Shellac, Polish Pro, Artistic Gel Polish and umpteen others. Brands are now also creating hybrid formulas for at home and professional use; these are a combination of regular polish and a gel formulation, which requires no light curing and offers ease of use. CND’s Vinylux and OPI’s infinite shine are among some of the more popular.

Nail polish While nail polish continues to retain its popularity, many questions have been raised lately around safety issues. This has resulted in ‘3 Free’ (i.e. no Dibutyl Phthalate, Toluene and Formaldehyde) Nail File Issue 12

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and ‘5 Free’ (i.e. no Dibutyl Phthalate, Toluene, Formaldehyde, Formaldehyde Resin and Camphor) polishes. Now there are even vegan and breathable nail polishes available.

Nail treatments These come in the form of strengtheners, hardeners, builders and repair systems. Nearly every professional brand has a range of nail treatments for nails that are thin and weak, brittle and cracking, or dehydrated and damaged due to incorrect application of nail coatings.

LCN offers a large range of nail treatments, from Natural Nail Boost Gel to Pedique for toes, and also the very popular Nail Serum. OPI has Nail Envy and Avoplex, then there is Solaroil by CND, an all-time favourite. One of the most innovative products to hit the market is IBX, a repair system that works deep into the layers of the nail by bonding them together again, particularly when the nail has been dehydrated and lost all of its oils and moisture. It can be applied under any nail coating.

Nail solvent systems Whether for removing nail polish, gel polish or an enhancements system, nail solvent systems have become a growing concerns for nail professionals and their clients. This is due to how the removal process and/ or the solvent affects the natural nails with continuous


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use. Removal options range from soaking the traditional way with acetone in a bowl, to an ultrasonic machine, to wrapping the nails with foil and cotton wool soaked in acetone, leaving the natural nail dehydrated and rather unsightly.

Newer removal options and techniques have now been developed and are proving to be quicker and friendlier to the nail plate. These range from a new innovative steaming method (whereby an acetone based solution is heated to create steam, which removes the product more easily), to base and top coats which allow coatings to come off in no time. Pre-made nail wraps with a soaking pad have been developed by brands like CND, Akzentz and Blitz Foils. CND now has a topcoat, Xpress5, which allows Shellac to come off in five minutes. Morgan Taylor has Strip Ease, a unique vitamin and mineral complex designed to create a protective coating around the keratin protein structure.

Nail enhancement systems Nail companies have used technology advancements to come up with different methods to create stronger, more durable and longer lasting nail enhancements. They have also become very user friendly, allowing the technician to work more effectively and efficiently.

and coatings, with the acrylic dipping system which has been revived and made a comeback. Its biggest advantage is that there is no light necessary and no odour. It’s also quick and easy and creates perfect smile lines.

Some of the methods being used are cross-linking polymer technology (found in most enhancement systems), inter-penetrating polymer network technology (first used in high tech aerospace) and nanotechnology (the use of nano-size ingredients to create a tight surface network). The latter is used in the Entity range of enhancements systems

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the industry for 27 years. She consults with salons and spas and trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail technology. Nail File Issue 12

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Know your chemicals

The natural nail’s best kept secrets Sonette van Rensburg provides an in-depth look into the chemical make-up of nails.

H

ave you ever really thought about what the nail unit is actually constructed of and how intricate it is? I am talking about those little things at the end of our tips and toes that are the perfect accessory to polish, adorn, enhance and coat. Yet we take them for granted and put them through so much. Let’s take a tour through the natural nail plate and find out more about the secrets it actually conceals. As we’ve learnt in a previous article, we know that the nail plate is made up of numerous tiny cells containing proteins called keratin, of which there are two types: crystalline and noncrystalline. The former has an almost perfectly arranged chemical structure, like quartz, diamond, sapphire and topaz. All of these have transparency, as do the crystalline keratins found in the nail plate, whereas non-crystalline substances have very

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different properties and are less transparent, giving the nail plate a milky appearance. These substances have a very important purpose and function, in that they provide the nail plate with strength and durability. Crystalline keratin forms microscopic-sized, spiral-like fibres inside each nail cell and, because of their shape, they are able to pack tightly together, side-by-side, creating compact bundles. Because these bundles are two thousand times narrower than a human hair, they are only visible under very powerful


Know your chemicals Occasion Nails

The nail plate is made up of numerous tiny cells containing proteins called keratin, of which there are two types: crystalline and non-crystalline.

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microscopes, and are surrounded by a gel-like substance made from non-crystalline keratin, which helps to suspend, support and protect each crystalline bundle. The crystalline gel also helps to regulate the flow of water and oils which pass through the nail plate, making it hydrophilic (i.e. oil and moisture loving). The oil and moisture in the nail plate is what makes it tough, resilient and shock-absorbent.

Inter-locking connection

Each nail cell is connected to the next one by an inter-locking connection and doorway called a desmosome. There are several desmosomes connecting each nail cell to several other nail cells, forming a huge network of nail cells that fit together, just like a carefully composed jigsaw puzzle. This interlocked mass of keratin fibres packed into millions of adjoining cells is what makes up the nail plate. These tiny nail cells are also surrounded by a blend of natural oils, filling the narrow spaces between each cell. The proteins that make up the keratinous nail plate are made from amino acids, which are bonded to one another in long chains, containing between 5 000 and 100 000 amino acids, linking up just like a string of beads and held together by chemical bonds, known as covalent bonds. Don’t underestimate the strength of these bonds, they are one of the most important and strongest forms of chemical bonds, and contribute to the durability and strength of the nail plate. Sulphur crosslinks further strengthen keratin through covalent bonds that are created between two separate protein chains, joining together just like the rungs on a ladder, constructing a supertough structure. This structure makes the surface of the nail plate highly resistant to stains and the damaging effects of solvents and other harsh chemicals. The nail plate contains many more cross-links than hair, which is why it is so much tougher and has the ability to resist breaking and cracking.

I would like to thank internationally renowned product chemist, Doug Schoon, for letting me source information for the above from his Nail Plate Construction Zone article. Contact: dschoon@cox.net

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Step by Step Occasion Nails

Water colour This pretty look was created by Franzelle de Villiers using LCN.

Do a full set of nails with LCN Sculpture Pink.

1

2

Dry wipe the nail to get rid of the sticky dispersion. Use a Yellow Sharpie (white board marker) to make an abstract shape. Then immediately take a Nail Art Striper Brush and dip it in alcohol. By holding your brush horizontally, assist the ‘Yellow’ to flow. Make sure you have enough alcohol so that it doesn’t stay in the shape you make.

3

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Apply two thin layers of LCN Recolution Pillow Talk. Cure after each layer under an LED lamp for one minute, or a UV lamp for two minutes.

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Step byNails Step Occasion

The following colours were used in this step by step guide: Yellow, Orange, Pink and Purple. Repeat step 3 with the remaining three colours.

4 Using LCN Foil Gel (because of its thicker consistency), start drawing your flower with a thin striper brush.

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When you are finished with all your colours, let them dry properly before moving on to the next step.

5 Finally, seal with LCN Ultra Shine to achieve a high gloss finish and cure (LED one minute or UV two minutes).

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Step by Step

Swirl

This pretty 3D gel design was created by Queen New York (QNY).

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Step byNails Step Occasion

i Prepare and sanitise all your working materials. Apply one coat of QNY Base Coat and cure it under the QNY LED Lamp for 30 seconds. Apply two coats of QNY Care Gel and cure it under the QNY LED Lamp for 30 seconds.

ii Apply the first colour of your choice as the base for the design and cure it for 30 seconds.

iii Choose three colors of your choice and do polka dots of all these colours on the nail that you have applied the base coat to.

iv Take your dotting stick and mix the three colours together in a swirling movement / motion. Cure under the QNY LED LAMP for 30 seconds.

v Apply a layer of Top Coat and cure it for 30 seconds. Wipe off the sticky residue with gel cleanser and cotton wool.

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vi Apply cuticle oil on the cuticles and moisturise the hands using a hand lotion. Nail File Issue 12

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Step by Step

Glue be gone Bio Sculpture Gel has developed the EVO glue-less tip application.

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he glue-less tip application by EVO is a breakthrough application technique that allows for a perfect tip application without using any glue or harmful ingredients that may cause damage to the natural nail. This glue-less tip application can lasts weeks and gives the client the freedom of choosing between different nail shapes and lengths. Prepare the nail plate and apply EVO Base Layer.

Apply the tip.

1 2 Shorten and shape the tip.

Apply the EVO Base Layer; you are now ready to proceed with the overlay.

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Competition Occasion Nails

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Winning Ways - Professional Beauty North Nail File’s look at the international competition circuit.

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Competition

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veryone from newbies to known faces on the English circuit took part in the Professional Beauty North Championships, held late last year in Manchester, to stake their claim as the best ‘nailistas’ in the country. Says competition director, Denise Wright: “The first place winners received a trophy and won an ‘Experience with a Judge’ prize. This includes mentoring to keep the star techs on top of their game.” Categories included: Salon Nail; Spa Manicure; Permanent Polish; Pink & White Competition Style; Photographic Classic; Nail Starters Manicure; Nail Starters Permanent Polish; One Stroke Nail Art; Showcase Nail Art; Photographic Nail Art; Nail Art Masters and International Nail Art Master.

Winner of the International Nail Art Master category was Elaine Moore.

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THE ANTI-AGE INGREDIENTS COMPLEX • Stem cells of the sea fennel: regulating pigmentation, • Jojoba oil: increases the skins elasticity and prevents the hydrating and promotes skin regeneration. loss of moisture. • Elastin: increases elastin and therefore counteracts loss of • Panthenol: soothing, nourishes and regenerates the skin. elasticity and moisture of the tissue as well as preventing wrinkles.

For more information contact Looking Good LCN Tel: 010 593 3293 | WhatsApp 083 326 0604 | info@lcn.co.za | www.lcn.co.za MADE IN GERMANY



Nail File Jan-Feb 2017