Nail file Jan-Feb 2016

Issue 6

Power

Jan/Feb 2016

Work of art

Sculpting the pink & white

dressing

Nail colours in the boardroom

Illuminating

topic LED vs UV lamps

Hip

&happening International nail trends

What’s inside Nail File

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26

32

47

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Industry News

Boardroom Blitz

Shedding light on UV & LED

Stay in the know

Nails in the workplace

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Ask the Experts

Salon Focus

What is the secret to sculpting the perfect pink and white?

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Home-based salon re-launches

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Curing light systems

36 / 38 / 40 Step by Steps Urban metals Elegant times Candy Pearl

Style Savvy

The bride to be

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Preparing nails for enhancements

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Busting myths

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In the Market

Nails on tour

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The perfect canvas

Q&A with Cuccio creative director Steven Rhys-Wells

Product Hub

Winning Ways

Professional Beauty North Nail Championships

Myths and bogus remedies for nail disorders

47 Top Tech Talk

Q&A with Patience Mlotshwa

Nail File Issue 6

Jan/Feb 2016

Welcome

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Cover: Shutterstock

he Nail File team would like to take this opportunity to wish all our readers a healthy and prosperous 2016, filled with the most beautiful nails in the world.

NAIL FILE A Professional Beauty Supplement Published by T.E. Trade Events 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970 / Fax: 011 781 6079 Additional pics: www. shutterstock.com

Publisher Mark Moloney mark@professionalbeauty.co.uk Editor Joanna Sterkowicz joanna@probeauty.co.za Art Director Ursula Wong ursula@probeauty.co.za Technical Consultant Sonette van Rensburg sonette@probeauty.co.za Advertising Sales 011 781 5970

It’s increasingly evident that the traditional French manicure is a timeless classic which never seems to go out of fashion, so it’s vital for nail techs to know how to sculpt the perfect ‘pink and white’. Our three resident experts offer invaluable advice on this technique, each from a unique perspective.

We’ve often heard about the important role that colour plays in affecting our moods, but who would have thought that this also applies to the shades we sport on our nails. Our Boardroom Blitz article provides fascinating insight on how nail colours are perceived in the boardroom, as well as in other professional work environments.

It’s always important to keep an eye on international trends so readers are sure to find the intricate nail art in our Winning Ways section of interest. These stunning looks were created for the Nail Championship at the Professional Beauty North Show in Manchester.

On a more technical note, we include in this issue of Nail File an in-depth article about the differences between UV (Ultra Violet) and LED (Light-Emitting Diode) lamps and the role they play in the curing process.

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

To advertise in Nail File, please call 011 781 5970 To contr ibute to editorial, contact Joanna To join the conversation Visit www.probeauty.co.za and follow us on Facebook and Twitter.

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News

NEWS

Information at your fingertips Bio Sculpture opens Evo Boutique Salon South African professional nail brand Bio Sculpture Gel has opened its first-ever salon, at the Mimosa Mall in Bloemfontein.

B Eduard Scholtz and Elmien Scholtz.

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Jan/Feb 2016

io Sculpture founder Elmien Scholtz says that the motivation for opening the salon is to get the brand into the public eye. “When Bio Sculpture started doing business 25 years ago, we trained housewives, stay-athome moms and non-working

women to become Bio Sculpture technicians. Most of these wonderful women work from home-based salons. We still believe that this is a wonderful solution for mothers with small children, and love the great work that our home therapists are doing.

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running of all Evo Boutique Salons.”

The Evo Boutique Salon Concept will be introduced to Bio Sculpture’s more than 20 importing countries.

“However, last year I met with one of our importers in Cape Town and she mentioned that she expected to see Bio everywhere, but had not seen a single outlet. We decided to use the birth of our new range, EVO2 by Bio Sculpture, to draw Bio into the public eye by placing Evo Boutique Salons in malls.”

Scholtz notes that while the planning of the salon took little more than a year, the development of Evo took six years.

The salon opened on Saturday, 7 November 2015. Scholtz and her team decided on Bloemfontein as the locale for the salon as it is the nearest city to the Bio Sculpture head office in Clocolan.

“We thought that it would be good to have the first salon nearby for easy accessibility,” continues Scholtz. “Evo salons

work closely with Bio Sculpture area managers, so it was important for me to be close to Ilse van der Merwe, the area manager in Bloemfontein.

“Our next salons will be in Johannesburg and Pretoria, nearer to Eduard Scholtz, Bio Sculpture’s Brand Manager, who is in charge of the Evo Boutique Salon Concept and the

All Evo Salons will offer the complete Bio Sculpture Nail Care package, including overlays, strengthening upper arch treatments, sculptures, spa pedicures, as well as the entire colour gel range and retail range. In addition the salons offer the complete colour range of Evo ‘fast lane’ overlays.

Additional services include MUD one on one make-up lessons, bridal trials as well as the complete MUD make-up retail range. Dermalogica facials, skin analyses and the complete range of Dermalogica retail products are also offered.

OPI now at Sorbet As from 1 November 2015, OPI Infinite Shine, nail lacquer and nail treatments have been available in Sorbet Stores nationwide.

Says Courtney Fuhr, brand manager of the Sorbet Group: “The introduction of OPI was motivated by the desire to extend the nail offering to our guests, allowing them a broader variety of brands to choose from, as nail treatments are our most popular treatments in-store.”

OPI is distributed in South Africa by The Prestige Cosmetics Group, a subsidiary of the CAVI Brands Group.

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News Industry News

Twincare announces IBD winners As part of the inaugural Twincare International Gala Awards ceremony held on 27 October at Cantare in Montecasino, Johannesburg, Twincare honoured its top IBD achievers.

Top Retailer IBD

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aid Twincare’s Stav Dimitriadis: “Over the years, Twincare International has invested substantially in ensuring quality and excellence in the South African spa and salon industry.”

Skinsense won the award for Top IBD Retailer, while Africology won the Business Excellence Award, with Saxon

Business Excellence IBD

Spa winning the IBD Johannesburg Salon of the Year award.

The IBD Salon of the Year in Port Elizabeth was judged to be Purebliss, with Fordoun winning the IBD Salon of the Year Award in KwaZulu-Natal. The Up & Coming IDB Award went to Exclusively me.

E.MI School SA opens Located in Loretha Street in Kempton Park, the E.MI School South Africa was officially launched on 30 January by Yolande Bekker of Young Nails.

Says E.MI sales manager Kayla Richards: “We actually opened the school late last year after Yolande returned from Russia, where she did her E.MI Educators course.

“Yolande found out about E.MI School on the internet and loved the concept of hand painting art at an artist level, as well as the excellent quality of the brand.”

Richards explains that E.MI founder Ekaterina Miroshnichenko is a world Nail File Issue 6

Jan/Feb 2016

champion in nail design in the ‘Fantasy’ category.

Miroshnichenko, who has won multiple other competitions, including a gold medal at the European Championship in the 3D nail design category, runs the main E.MI head office in Russia.

E.Mi School South Africa offers eight international courses: Art Painting – ABC Lines; Design Technologies; Textone & Combiture; Reptile; 3D Vintage & Liquid Stones; Stylised Painting; One Stroke; and E.MI Manicure.

In addition the school

runs two national courses – Barbie’s Wardrobe and Free Edge Design.

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Salon owner Ntisa honoured Felicia Ntisa, owner of the Sorbet Bryanston Nails and Sorbet Hyde Park Nails salons in Johannesburg, has received top honours from her franchisor, the Sorbet Group.

Ntisa won the Franchisee of the Year 2015 Award, as well as the Servant Leadership of the Year 2015 Award.

In addition, Sorbet Hyde Park Nails, which was a finalist in the 2015 Professional Beauty Awards, won the Operational Excellence of the Year 2015 Award.

“It is an honour and privilege to be recognised for the effort I put

into my salons every day,” comments Ntisa. “I must say that it is a lot of hard work running Felicia Ntisa the salons, managing staff and dealing with customers, but with effort and consistency you manage efficiently.

“I dedicate these accolades to my teams. To quote the former President of Malawi, Joyce Banda: ‘Leadership is loving the people you serve and them loving you back’.”

Ntisa is looking forward to another great year in the nail industry.

LCN nail techs get competitive LCN’s Lea Castro, Christine Mulolo and guest judge, Sonette van Rensburg

LCN’s inaugural Nail Competition was held on 16 November at Looking Good LCN Pretoria East, with 20 entries across two categories.

Winner of the combined Intermediate and Master Categories was Christine Mulolo from RUB in

by Annelie Durant, who is based in Hartebeespoort, North West Province.

Bryanston. Lomaphungo Donga from SOHO in Sandton came second.

Winners received an LCN SkyPro LED Light Unit to the value of R5500.

The next LCN competition will take place on 13 June this year.

The Novice Category was won Nail File Issue 6

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Ask the Experts

Scintillating sculptures

QUESTION: What’s the secret to sculpting the perfect pink and white?

EVELYN JANSEN VAN VUUREN Before you start with a set of nails, you have to disinfect them. Remove the natural shine from the natural nail, and, by doing that, you will eliminate 75% of the chances of lifting. Disinfect again and prime.

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Always use clean liquid. I normally use just enough liquid for three or four nails as your liquid can become contaminated if you don’t replace it regularly, and your nails can appear ‘cloudy’. I personally do not use fast set liquid so as to give me time to

create a perfect smile line.

Practice, practice and more practice will help you to get the right consistency. You can use a large, medium or small bead of product, depending on the size of the natural nail.

I prefer to work with a No. 8

Ask the Experts

brush. Always make sure that your brushes are clean throughout the process. When you apply the form, its centre line must run in line with the centre line of the natural nail.

Wet your whole brush in the liquid, wipe off the excess liquid, and drag your brush in the powder towards you. You start with the free edge and this is usually the largest bead.

The further up the nail you go, the smaller and wetter the beads are going to be. When you place your product and it does not wet the whole bead within three seconds, it means your product is too dry; if your product runs, it means your product is too wet.

the centre, and work with the product from side to side. Use more time on your free edge to create a beautiful smile and make sure that you have a wall at your smile line, to prevent the pink product from going over the white.

When you place your pink product, place it right at the back of the smile. Leave the product for three seconds, and feather stroke it over the white. Place another bead, and another, until you get 0.5mm away from the cuticle. Stroke the product until it is even.

Make sure the cuticles are clean and free from product, because product on the cuticle can cause lifting.

Always wipe your brush before you go back into the liquid, and remember, the larger you want your ball to be, the more product you will have to use on your brush.

Lastly, you have to create the stress point, and if you look at the nail from the side, you have to have a nail with a thin cuticle, with a thicker stress area, and a thinner free edge.

When you place your white product on the edge, you have to control the product by pushing up the sides, and pat the product across the form to fit the nail. Wet your brush in your liquid again and work on your smile line by starting in

Before your product dries, you have to pinch the c-curve from both sides, to create a c-curve of approximately 40% of a circle, until the product is dry.

Start working down the nails with your file, making sure the free edge extends straight

Evelyn Jansen van Vuuren is an award-winning nail technician who has been self-employed for the past 15 years and has a home-based salon.

Earlier in her career she completed a course in Somatology at TUT (Tshwane University of Technology).

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out from the nail groove.

Shape into the desired shape, and make sure the nails are smooth and shiny with no product ridge at the cuticle.

Yvette Nel started out in 2002 as a passionate nail technician working with all nail systems.

In 2007 she had a complete career change, from nail tech to sales & area manager for Looking Good LCN. Nel loves sharing her knowledge and expertise with anyone who takes their business seriously.

YVETTE NEL The criteria for a sculpted set of nails is exactly the same criteria for all nail systems – there is no reason that a gel nail should be any different to an acrylic nail.

The most important thing to get perfectly right is fitting the form. If the form is not firmly and securely fitted and perfectly connected to the sidewalls of the nail, the sculpture will be of poor quality.

V

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Ask Askthe theExperts Expert

The criteria for a sculpted set of nails is exactly the same criteria for all nail systems – there is no reason that a gel nail should be any different to an acrylic nail.

Product control is also very important. If you cannot control the product in the way you should, the nails will be badly constructed.

Filing it into perfection should be quick and easy as the filing routine is only to even out the minor imperfections.

Yvette Nel

Pink should not cover white – the two colours should perfectly meet each other on the smile line that you create. If you wash the pink over the white it takes away from the crisp, clean smile line and the clarity of the white.

Obviously all the standard criteria of creating a beautiful set of nails should be applied.

SONETTE VAN RENSBURG In the past it was thought that the most effective system to use when sculpting was a liquid and powder system. However, today, with the latest in product innovation and technology, you can achieve very successful results with a gel system.

There are many different elements that need to come together to ensure that you can create a well-balanced enhancement with all the structural points in the correct place, with a perfect shape and form

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that will complement the client’s hands and nails. A sculptured nail enhancement that is well-engineered should have the same characteristics as one which has had a tip applied with a product overlay, if not better, as a much more accurate and perfect C-curve can be achieved with a sculpting form than with a tip. However, the end result could vary depending on the condition, shape and form of the client’s natural nail.

Many companies and product brands have

Ask the Experts

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marbling. These problems can all be avoided through proper application techniques, a good sculpting brush, clean working procedures and workstation, and consistency of mix ratio.

and form, with all the structural points in the correct place, right from the free edge to the smile line, nail bed and cuticle line.

their own techniques and procedures regarding enhancements, which I recommend that you adhere to. My personal preference is to work in three zones, as I find it the most effective way to create a well-structured and balanced enhancement that has a beautiful shape

When applying your product to the sculpting form you will notice that the product seems to move around much more than when applying it to a tip. Make sure that whichever techniques you prefer to use that you have full control of your product to move it into the correct place.

You must ensure that your French white tip and smile line are perfectly symmetrical, crisp and consistent in colour and that the pink product applied to the nail bed area flows in with the natural nail and is clean, with no bubbles, no shadows or

The way in which you apply the product will not only affect the end result, but can make all the difference in the time you spend on unnecessary steps like filing, which can waste time. Rather spend more time perfecting your application and you will automatically spend less time filing. Sculpt with the brush, not the file!

Each step in the process of constructing nail enhancements affects the next, so make sure each stage and step is done as perfectly as possible. Paying attention to and applying all the above elements will contribute towards achieving perfectly flawless sculpted pink & white enhancements every time!

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the industry for 26 years and consults with salons and spas and trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail technology.

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Tips

The perfect

canvas

Although each step in the application of a set of nail enhancements is important, the tip is where it all begins and what will be the canvas for your product application, writes Sonette van Rensburg.

T

o be able to provide your clients with the best possible tip application there are various factors that need to be considered when purchasing tips, as not all tips are created equal. If the canvas is not perfectly applied and prepared, it will most definitely affect the overall look of your enhancements It is best to use tips that are made from an ABS virgin plastic (i.e. plastic that has not been recycled). This will ensure their quality, colour and uniformity. They are also easier to blend, will adhere better to the natural nail and will have fewer problems, such as cracking and splitting for example.

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There is a choice of highquality professional tips available to choose from to suit just about every client’s need and design preference, not only in a variety of different colours such as natural, clear and white, but now also in the popular stiletto and edge shapes.

For a tip application with product overlay the correct tip type must be chosen according to the client’s natural nail shape and form, making

special provision for problem or challenging nail shapes and forms, such as: flat, bitten, ski jump or problem nails, nails with deep sidewalls and highly arched nails

Tip features The tip should be absolutely perfect in every way as it will create the desired shape and form of the enhancement.

Tips have various features that can be looked at which can guide and assist you in

Tips

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There is a choice of highquality professional tips available to choose from to suit just about every client’s need and design preference, not only in a variety of different colours such as natural, clear and white, but now also in the popular stiletto and edge shapes.

determining and choosing the correct style of tip to suit your client’s nails.

The Well or Contact Area – this is the area of the tip that will make contact with the free edge of the natural nail.

This area must fit snugly against the nail with no pockets or spaces between it and the natural nail. Tips with a full well area can also be customised accordingly; some tips have a small contact area and are ideal for long, perfect nail beds with little or no problems.

The Stop Point – this is the area that when pushed up against the free edge will stop or prevent the tip from going back any

further. Not all tips have a stop point or are made with a well or contact area. This gives the nail technician more freedom to use the tip as needed.

The C Curve – if you turn the contact area of the tip towards yourself and look down it, you will be able to see the C Curve. V

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Tips

The Sidewall or Lower Arch – the lower arch will vary depending on the style of the tip; the sidewalls of the tip will make an arch, which could be straight or quite dramatically curved.

The Upper Arch – the upper arch of the tip is the curvature, which is formed on the top surface of the nail. The style of the tip will determine the height of the upper arch. Once product is applied, the upper arch should form a smooth, even arch from cuticle line to free edge line. With the stress area in the correct place, the lower arch line will be parallel.

Analyse the client’s natural nail to make sure the tip you choose matches the client’s natural nail shape, form and C Curve.

When matching the tip, make sure you hold it against the free edge at a 45-degree angle and press it down to confirm the fit.

Do not hold it above or away from the nail as you will not be able to make the correct choice.

Make special provisions when fitting French style tips.

Tip sizing When choosing the correct tip size to fit with the size of natural nail, check that the tip fits from sidewall to sidewall; make sure the tip is not squeezed onto the natural nail and does not pop up as you press it down. It should fit comfortably from side to side and will also depend on the client’s nail shape and form.

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Rather choose a tip which is slightly bigger than too small, as a larger tip can be customised to fit but a tip that is too small will eventually lead to problems such as the tip splitting down the centre, which will cause centre pocket lifting or the tip popping off. The client may also experience a tight and uncomfortable sensation on her nail beds if the tip is too small.

NB: Don’t guess the tip type and size or use the same tips for every client, try each type and style until you get the perfect match.

Tip customising It is important to customise the tips prior to application, according to the client’s nail shape to ensure a proper fit. It can be customised in two ways depending on the style of the tip being used. With a full well tip, pre-customise the tip prior to application by either cutting

or filing out the well area with a 180-grit file. If the tip chosen is slightly too big, then be sure to file down the sides of the tip to ensure a proper fit.

To customise the tip with a file, hold the tip with the well area facing you and place the 180grit file against the well area of the tip at a 45-degree angle.

File the area away (filing in one direction) to remove the excess.

Clean out the well with a softer grit file to remove any debris.

To customise with a nail cutter, hold the tip with the surface facing you, turn the cutter upside down and cut a curved shape into the well starting at the sidewall and cutting towards the centre of the tip, repeat on the other side to meet the first cut to complete the customising.

Gently buff the surface around the area that has been customised to minimise filing during the blending process.

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Nail Trends

Nails on tour Cuccio creative director Steven Rhys-Wells tells Georgia Seago of Professional Beauty UK what’s new in the global nails market and why we should be looking to Asia for the hot trends

ells Steven Rhys-W You travel the world in your role. What differences do you see in nail trends globally?

Nail trends come and go, but most of the techniques stick around a long time. One-stroke painting is as popular now as it was four years ago, and it’s as popular in China as it is in Russia. Since working in Asia I’ve found 3D gel is becoming very big there, and is actually gaining more popularity than acrylic because you can get the same effect without the fumes.

What else is popular now?

In the last four years I’ve seen gel polish come in and take over every other service; I’ve seen acrylic regain popularity then fade back out. Everything comes full circle – we’re finding that now with some of the older

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systems. We’re selling a lot of fibreglass and resin at the moment. People are excited by it again now because they find it easy to do.

The most popular shape globally is still stiletto.

America is where most of the trends start – it’s where the nail industry began and where product comes from. But I do see trends that started in Asia happening all over the world now too, like gel 3D design, which is just catching on here.

Are extensions making a comeback generally?

People use extensions to show off their skill set, so I don’t think that’s ever going to die. I definitely think extensions are coming back with the popularity of gel, though natural nails are still the focus at the moment.

In America it’s a sign of status, people have natural nails because they can afford to have their nails manicured every two weeks, but in the UK clients like having extensions.

Nail Trends

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Which nail market inspires you most?

Asia is a passion of mine. My style as a nail artist has changed after being exposed to theirs. Everything in my work is becoming more detailed and concentrated; I can see more of an oriental feel in the way I do things.

How did you get involved with taking Cuccio overseas?

I’ve only been in the industry for four years. In that time I’ve learnt my trade, I’ve travelled the world – I’m on my second tour now. I take Cuccio to different countries to generate excitement about the brand and show people how to use the products. It’s about getting people to look forward to product launches and events.

I go to each country and get looked after by a Cuccio distributor. They’ll put on events such as seminars to help to get new business.

it’s gone global. I’m getting requests from Costa Rica, Mexico, all over America. A lot of it comes from Facebook.

Distributors from different countries see what I’m up to and share the news with their clients.

just come out. It’s a new shade of gel called Opaque Welsh Rose, which is a really nice pale pink colour. With the brand as a whole, we’re focusing on more products in the Naturale range, so there will be new fragrances, and also new colours.

What’s new for Cuccio?

The first product that I’ve created for Cuccio myself has Steven Rhys-Wells demoing at the Cuccio Romania seminar in October 2014. Source: YouTube

Which parts of the world are you targeting now?

At first I was only supposed to be doing Europe but then people in Asia who follow me on Facebook started showing quite a lot of interest, and now

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Business

Boardroom blitz – nails in the workplace The image you project in the boardroom, or in any other professional business environment, could have a great impact on the way people perceive you, writes Sonette van Rensburg.

Y

our image projects not only in the way that you dress or in the way that you present yourself, but also in your grooming – not only in the way your hair and make-up are done, but also, believe it or not, in the way your nails look.

Who would’ve thought that those little canvases at the end of your digits could have such an influence on your career, well they do. After chatting to various businesswomen, I have learnt that the colour that women in high-profile positions wear on their nails could influence the way people see them.

You could be perfectly attired in the most stylish ensemble, with perfect make-up and hair elegantly swept back, but if your nails are not the right colour, length or shape, they could end up being a complete

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distraction. Even if you give the best presentation of your life in the boardroom, your nails could have the people around you paying attention to nothing else but those awful talons, with nobody taking you seriously.

Your nails could also subconsciously trigger off a reminder of a bad experience for someone, so take note of what people say, and, if you get a hint of your boss or the people in your workplace taking a dislike to a certain colour or look, then don’t wear it, as it could cost you dearly.

Colour spectrum When choosing nail colours, people tend to choose those that are either in fashion and that they are attracted to, rather than those that complement their personality and skin tone. Colours can

either make your skin look sallow, or radiant and healthy.

When selecting a colour for your client, don’t forget to take into consideration her lifestyle and job description.

Don’t forget that the shape and length of your nails also play a part. Short to medium lengths that are square to square-oval are far more practical, and exude professionalism, rather than nails that are super-long and pointy, which could come across as threatening and intimidating.

Colours have a powerful effect on one’s emotions and can change the way you feel. Let’s take a look at what the different feelings colours evoke.

French – the French Manicure is a look that will remain forever classic: you really are playing it

Business

safe and smart when wearing this age-old nail look in the business arena. Whether it’s worn on short or medium to long nails, the French is bound to be a hit as it is always elegant and goes with everything. This most popular of trends has really evolved over the years and lends itself to endless possibilities.

Pastels are associated with calmness and rest. A pastel

shade always looks soft and feminine, and pastels have become a little more refined and stylish, having moved beyond just the ice cream shades.

Red – this colour is referred to as a stimulating, hot colour and suggests that you are a little more of an extrovert. It’s a hue that exudes strength and confidence. Be careful how you wear it though, as on a medium

21

length, square-oval nail, it is sophisticated and classy, but on a long almond, stiletto- or coffin-shaped nail it can come across as flirty.

Yellow – a happy, cheerful

colour for those who dare to be different and know what they want, it evokes energy and is also the first colour the human eye notices. Keep this bright, cheery colour for the weekends or for when you’re on holiday, V Nail File Issue 6

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Business

otherwise tone it down to a more mellow yellow on shorter nails for a more business-like look.

Green & Brown are considered

earthy colours and generally present a natural, down to earth feeling. They also represent warmth and a sense of balance.

Many people are attracted to green as it is associated with safety and healing. It is also very soothing on the eye, especially fresh minty greens, which are very much on trend.

Orange & Coral are warm colours and suited to those who are a little more outgoing, who want to be noticed and who love being around people.

Blue – associated with cleanliness, depth and stability, blue has taken on a whole new dimension and is proving to be more and more popular, from the palest of pastel blues to deeper cerulean and sapphire shades. This cool colour evokes reliability and, believe it or not, is often chosen by those who are a little more introvert, and is picture-perfect on shorter nails.

White is amongst

the most popular and is also the latest trend in nail colours. It represents new beginnings, pureness and openness; it is a reflective colour that

Pink is associated with femininity and romance. It depicts a sense of care and gentleness, a colour that can be worn any time and is available in the prettiest of shades and tones to suit just about anyone. Pastel pinks are soft and feminine and exude youth, whereas for something a little more sophisticated and mature, brighter fuchsia pinks are stunning and suggest passion.

Pink is great on just about any length and shape.

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Business

looks crisp and clean. It can easily be changed up by adding some nail art to funk it up, or by layering it with some sheer shimmers.

White looks beautiful on medium to short and more square-oval nails.

Purple is associated with spirituality and creativity.

A strong colour, so be careful when choosing this shade for your nails as it’s not for everyone. If it’s not well matched with your skin tone, it could look garish and scream at onlookers. If you opt for

this colour for the first time, play it safe and go for a lighter shade on shorter nails.

Black – a very powerful colour that shouts out: ‘Don’t mess with me!’

Black can be sleek and even elegant; a combination of black matt and gloss can look superb done in an alternative French style on short to medium length nails. However, keep this look out of the workplace and rather save it for a glitzy occasion.

All the products, tools, gels and tips in the world mean nothing if you’re not completely comfortable using them. That’s why our customer service and the relationships we have with our nail techs are truly the most important thing we do here at Young Nails.

 

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Salon Focus

Home-based salon re-launches Nails by Amanda, a home-based salon situated in the southern suburbs of Cape Town, recently underwent a renovation and is looking to expand its service offering to clients, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

W

hen nail technician Amanda Reddy decided to work from home after her daughter was born in 2008, she operated out of a little room at the back of the house.

“I needed my hours to be flexible and not to be bound by mall trading hours,” says Reddy, who had previously worked for two salons. “Over the years I started getting more and more referrals, and my workroom, although comfortable and cosy, became too cramped. So I decided that I needed a change. My husband and I then cleared out our garage and converted that into a salon for me.

“It was just an empty shell to start with, so lots of work went into creating the salon. We had the floors ‘screeded’ and then laid vinyl tiles. Walls were stripped, damp sealed, primed and painted. We had the garage door removed and a 4m aluminium sliding door fitted.

Plumbing and electrical points had to be installed as well.”

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existing clients, who were each asked to bring a friend along.

Simone Miller, Bianca Miller and Amanda Reddy

As Reddy did not want a solid, walled cubicle, her husband put up curtains to create a soft feel.

“I wanted an open floorplan so that the salon wouldn’t seem overcrowded or cluttered, even when a few people come in for services at the same time.

“My furniture is fairly modern, but I tried doing my décor with a mix of modern/vintage/retro styles, in black, white, grey and red.”

Launch event Reddy held a salon re-launch event on November 7 for all

“I received a great response and all my guests showed great excitement on the day, which was very humbling to witness. There was champagne on arrival and snacks, with goodie bags for each guest.

There was a lucky draw as an incentive to the client who referred the most friends for the year, and a bonus lucky draw for a R1000 gift voucher to spend on any services required at Nails by Amanda.

“A great day was definitely had by all and what made me smile was seeing my clients finally meeting one another and exchanging phone numbers,” explains Reddy.

Salon Focus

“Even though I’ve been in the industry for so long, I think it’s important to go to workshops and reeducate myself and also to keep up with the ever-changing fields of nails and beauty,” states Reddy.

‘One-stop beauty shop’ Nails by Amanda offers manicures, pedicures, acrylic extensions and gel overlays.

Reddy recently completed a lash extension course with Vogue Lashes by Adele Sutton. “I am in the process of looking for a beauty therapist to do waxing and facials because my clients have clearly indicated that they would love to come to a ‘one-stop beauty shop’. But for now I work alone and have extended my hours to try and accommodate everyone.”

She uses Artisan acrylic for nail extensions and Gel-IT hard gel and gel polishes by South African brand Maskscara.

While Reddy does occasionally try different brands just to get a different feel for products, she always goes back to the brands with which she is

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She notes that her aim is for clients to come to the salon and relax, while she provides them with professional, top-notch services.

comfortable. For manicures and pedicures she uses the Bio Sculpture Gel spa range.

“My specialty is acrylic extensions and I am known for my love of doing nail art. I put my heart and soul into every set of nails that I do, although I have also fallen in love with lash extensions recently.

“When I look back and see how far I’ve come, it fills me with such pride, because it wasn’t always easy. But persevering and keeping up with trends has helped. It’s also very rewarding to see the smiles on my clients’ faces. I’m truly blessed to have a great clientele and to be living my dream.

“This is not just my job, it’s my passion,” concludes Reddy.

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Style Savvy

Here comes

the bride...!

Every little girl has dreams of being a beautiful bride one day and having a romantic fairy-tale wedding, imagining that she is a pretty princess and her groom a handsome prince.

O

ne day, as you awaken to the reality of this wonderful dream, you realise there is much to do and organise, to make this the most special day of your life when everything has to be absolutely perfect. Not only must the event be perfect, but you, the bride, must look like no other, and be splendid from top to toe – a bride with celestial grandeur and unmatched beauty.

Special attention must be paid to each and every detail, from being draped in the most gloriously breathtaking of dresses, adorned in the finest of jewels, with

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Style Savvy

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Pic: Married at First Sight

glowing skin and perfect tresses. To add the finishing touch, nails must be manicured and done to perfection, whether you opt for subtle, shimmery, bejewelled or bold nails, or stunningly crafted enhancements or a flawless gel polish.

With your hands and nails in full view of all who are present, and who want to catch a glimpse of your sparkling new ring, you will want to nail your wedding day manicure.

Considering the variety of up-to-date hand treatments, nail looks and colours, there is absolutely no excuse not to wow everyone, and especially your proud groom, on your special day.

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In the Market

Product

Hub

Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails.

Nails by numbers

Howdy cowboy!

Launching on March 1 the Morgan Taylor Urban Cowboy collection (also available in Gelish) includes A Touch Of Sass (dark red crème); Tan My Hide (pale nude crème); Tex’as Me Later (copper pink pearl); Holy Cow-Girl (sage green crème); Pumps Or Cowboy Boots? (black/brown crème); and Plum Tuckered Out (plum crème).

Each Nail Tek formulation provides effective nail therapy for specific nail conditions. The Nail Tek ‘Treat By Type’ number guide allows you to easily identify the perfect products for your client’s nail needs.

Nail Tek formulas are: 1 (Normal, healthy nails); 2 (Soft, peeling nails); 3 (Hard, brittle nails); and 4 (Weak, damaged nails).

011 305 1600

011 447 0659/3

Just like gel IBD’s Just Gel Polish incorporates the latest UV / LED gel technology in the market today, giving your client the wear of a nail lacquer, coupled with the longevity of a gel application. This perfect, 14-day, no-hip nail colour has no odour and zero drying time. Its stable composition ensures there is no breakdown of product.

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Fruity scrub

Proudly South African, DK Range’s creambased Apricot Kernel Scrub is a gentle moisturising hand and body scrub that effectively cleans and removes dead skin cells, leaving one’s skin feeling soft, smooth and nourished.

011 450 0754

In the Market

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Glorious glass

BIO Glass Gel (BGG) is a 100% acid-free gel containing bio-active ingredients (BioGlass, L-Cystein and Chitosan) that combines bonding and sculpting into one product. It creates a natural bond to the natural nail and supports the formation of new tissue. Suitable for all nail types, it reduces damage to nails caused by acidic bonding agents.

010 593 3293

Polished warrior

In conjunction with DreamWorks Animation’s release of Kung Fu Panda 3, Morgan Taylor has introduced the Kung Fu Panda Collection, featuring six adventuresome colours to welcome Mei Mei, a fearless and fun-loving panda. This Morgan Taylor/Gelish cross-promotion is also available in a Morgan Taylor mini 4-pack.

011 447 0659/3

In September 2015, Yolande Bekker and Morne Louw attended their Ekaterina Miroshnichenko Educators course in Russia.

It was such a wonderful experience and ended in a great success. As a result of all of that fun and hard work, Yolande (Kempton Park, Head Office) and Morne (Pretoria) are officially E.MI Educators and they both offer E.MI courses in South Africa.

We have a variety of different art courses that will take your nail designs to the next level! We also keep you up to date with the latest trends and many new and fabulous designs!

At E.MI School South Africa we want to bring out the true artist in You!

Contact us for Course Information and Bookings for 2016 Kempton Park (H/O) – 011 976 0081 / info@emi-sa.co.za Pretoria – 012 998 8099 / youngnails@telkomsa.net

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Competition

Winning Ways – Professional Beauty North Nail File’s look at the international competition circuit.

B

oth professional and student nail techs displayed their talents during the two-day North Nail Championships held late last year in Manchester, England.

The competition, held as part of the Professional Beauty

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Occasion Competition Nails

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Linda Hill (centre) was crowned International Nail Master.

North 2015 exhibition at Manchester Central, honoured some 41 winners and runners-up over the two days of the show in September.

Techs competed in 16 categories, from spa manicure to permanent polish. Students were also given their chance to shine, with categories for nail starters including Manicure and Tip & Overlay.

with Linda Hill being crowned International Nail Master. Competition director Denise Wright congratulated the winners and finalists on a particularly high standard of work.

International Manicurist of the Year was judged to be Ilex Wood,

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Lamps

Shedding light on UV & LED Sonette van Rensburg looks at the differences and effects of UV (Ultra Violet) versus LED (Light-Emitting Diode) light systems, their safety and when each should be used in the salon.

T

here are three types of UV rays – UVA, UVB and UVC. The UV rays, which are emitted by the sun, are responsible for our skin burning when overexposed.

Hence, there has been plenty of controversy over the use of UV nail lamps and their safety.

However, as a nail professional, you will know that the light used to cure gels is a different form of light and that UV nail lamps are really UVA nail lamps. This is due to the fact that they are actually designed to produce UVA light and waves, a safer form of light than UVB. Although you are able to see the violet light emitted from the lamp through the compact fluorescent bulbs, you are not actually able to see the ultra violet wavelengths, which are responsible for curing the gel and are measured in nanometres. The bulbs contain special internal filters, which are responsible for removing almost all of the UVB.

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It is important to know that the initiators found in nail enhancement products are activated by light, which needs to penetrate the gel completely in order to fully polymerise the oligomers. This does not always occur fully, especially when using thicker or highly coloured gels, as they allow less light to reach the bottom layers, causing oxygen in the air to contribute towards certain problems when using UV gel systems. As a result some manufacturers have attempted to overcome this by using more powerful UV lights of between 38-40 watts of UV light, which cure the gel very quickly, as opposed to 8 watts. Because these bulbs emit only UVA, they are deemed safe; however high-wattage lamps have their own disadvantages. Not only do they tend to be more expensive, but they could also lead to other problems, due to the rapid speed of curing, the product heats up, causing burns and damage to the nail bed.

Wattage Do not determine a UV lamp by its wattage, as there is a big difference between UVA light intensity and the ‘wattage’ which is what is responsible for measuring how much electricity is used by a light bulb and is not responsible for the proper curing of a gel system. The UVA bulb ‘intensity’ determines how much UVA light is available for curing the UV gel and is vital to ensure proper curing.

There is also the belief that all UV or LED lamps cure all types of gel systems, the fact is that there is no such thing as a ‘universal gel lamp’. The formulation of a gel product and its chemical make-up is what will determine the required intensity of the UVA light and the correct exposure time required for proper curing. Some 27-watt UV lamps have greater UVA intensity than many 36-watt units.

V

Lamps

{

My best advice is to stick to manufacturers’ recommendations and to use complete systems from one particular brand, as all the components in the system will work together and complement one another.

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{

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34

Lamps

My best advice is to stick to manufacturers’ recommendations and to use complete systems from one particular brand, as all the components in the system will work together and complement one another.

LED LED lamps are making their mark and proving to be more and more popular nowadays. However, be careful in thinking that an LED lamp will cure any gel system and that it’s much quicker and will save you time and money. There are many differences between UV and LED systems. The

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wavelength of an LED light is much narrower than that of a UV wavelength and it emits just the correct amount of UVA which is needed to cure LED curable gels, which is why LED curable gels that are made specifically for curing under an LED light will cure faster.

Most UV lamps emit wavelengths of approximately 320 – 400nm, whereas a gel manufacturer who produces an LED gel rated for 375nm will use a bulb that emits 370 – 380nm.

Bulb condition Do not underestimate how important it is to check the

condition of the bulbs in your UV or LED lamp as it is vital to the success of gel enhancements.

You may think that, because the bulb is still producing light, it is effective and curing your enhancements, however UV lamps become ineffective long before they actually burn out.

Depending on how often the lamp is used, a bulb has less than half its energy left after about six months of use.

Keep bulbs clean and change them as regularly as is recommended, even if they look fine. Keep an eye on how your product responds and cures, if there is a change and your product is taking longer to cure, then change them.

Lamps

Now that you know the differences between UV and LED systems and light, you are able to make an informed decision as a knowledgeable nail professional, making sure that you provide the best and most professional services performed with the correct products and equipment.

The Schoon perspective Internationally recognised scientist, author and educator, Douglas D Schoon of Schoon Scientific, recently gave a presentation to a large group of scientists and engineers interested in learning about UV nail products and lamps.

Says Schoon: “Also invited to present was Dr Robert Sayre, an internationally known scientific expert and inventor of the SPF (Sun Protection Factor) rating system for sunscreen products, who spoke on the effects of UV on human skin. Dr Sayre actively researches the effects of UV on skin and eyes and has tested many widely sold brands of UV nail lamps, including LED lamps.

“Dr Sayre and I were both in complete agreement that UV nail lamps are safe when used appropriately and in accordance with all manufacturers’ instructions.”

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UV Lamps Doug Schoon’s need to knows...

• UV nail lamps are safer than natural sunlight or sunlamps

• UV nail lamps properly belong in the least risky of all categories

• UV nail lamps used in salons have a UVA bulb that is vastly different from anything used for indoor tanning

• Physicians are grossly exaggerating exposures and safety questions raised about UV nail lamps were successfully addressed by two independently performed laboratory studies

• Two internationally known scientists, Dr Sayre and

Dr Dowdy, performed the most comprehensive study

• Doctors Sayre and Dowdy determined that UV nail lamps

are nothing like tanning beds. Both the lamps and UV levels are different. UV nail lamps produce far less UV light, with different ranges of wavelengths than tanning beds, so they are NOT equivalent

• Skin is never burned or tanned, even with regular use of UV nail lamps

• Services are performed once every two or three weeks, with each hand exposed for a total of six to 10 minutes

• UVB output is far less than natural sunlight exposure • Twice monthly, UV nail services compare to adding about two minutes of natural sunlight exposure each day

• Testing by Sayre and Dowdy shows that the proper category

for UV nail lamps is: ‘No hazard with 16.6 minutes of continual exposure’. Typically client exposure is less than 10 minutes and not continuous, over several shorter intervals

• No risks to the eyes are expected from UV nail lamps under normal conditions of use

• If clients are still concerned they can wear SPF 15+ broad-spectrum sunscreen or cover the hand with white cloth to eliminate exposure

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Step by Step

Urban metals This intriguing look was created with colours from Morgan Taylor’s Urban Cowgirls collection.

Apply a thin coat of Tan My Hide, making sure to cap the free edge of the nail. Apply a second coat of Tan My Hide for full coverage.

3.

Apply a coat of Could Have Foiled Me on a chosen stencil board.

Place the stamp over the colour.

4.

Place the stamp on the nail to transfer the chosen design.

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2.

Apply a thin coat of Tex’as Me Later, making sure to cover half of the nail at an angle.

Apply a second coat of Tex’as Me Later for full coverage.

Step by Step

37

5.

Apply Make It Last top coat over Tex’as Me Later section of the nail. This will allow the metal beads to stay in place.

6.

Place metal beads on the nail plate over the Tex’as Me Later colour.

7.

Apply a thin coat of Make It Last top coat for a high-gloss finish.

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Step by Step

Elegant times This stylish nail art look was created by LCN.

Colours used: LCN Recolution – So in Lilac; LCN Recolution – Extra White; LCN Colour Gel – Glamour Shot; and LCN Glitter Gel – Hologram Silver.

1.

2.

Apply two thin coats of Extra White on ring and middle fingernails, cure after each layer in UV/LED. Apply two thin coats of So in Lilac on the remaining nails, cure after each layer in UV/LED. Remove the sticky dispersion from ring finger nail. Use a thin nail art brush and apply Glamour Shot (silver) horizontally in parallel on the ring fingernail and cure with UV/LED. (It is recommended to apply one line at a time and flash cure for 10 seconds, to ensure lines are perfectly in place.)

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Make sure nails are buffed and left matt, ready for art application.

Step by Step

3.

Use your Spot Swirl (dotting tool) to make three dots to form a heart on the ring finger, on the second silver line from the free edge, and cure with UV/LED.

4.

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Apply Hologram Silver on the middle finger (there is no need for sticky dispersion to be removed) and cure with UV/LED.

5.

For a high gloss finish, apply LCN Ultra Shine Sealer on all the nails and cure with UV/ LED. Remove sticky residue and nourish the cuticles with LCN Super Shine Finish Cleaner.

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Step by Step

Candy PearlX

X

40

This pretty, pearly look with an element of gilt was created by The Nail House.

1.

Prepare the nail and apply base coat and Logik Gel Polish Pearl. Cure after each layer.

2.

Apply Logik Gel Polish Pearl coat again without curing, and apply Logik Gel Polish Neon Pink with a thin brush randomly on the nail.

4.

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3.

Use your flat brush to blend the two colours, like marbling.

Don’t blend too hard otherwise you will wipe off the entire colour.

Cure the nails when satisfied, apply top coat and cure again.

Step by Step

5.

Lightly buff the nail so that it has no shine.

6.

Use your thin brush and black gel paint to draw your patterns and then cure. Don’t wipe off the sticky layer.

8.

7.

41

Using your gold foil, press the foil onto the design with the side of your thumb.

Apply Logik Gel Top Coat and you are good to go.

Nail File Issue 6

Jan/Feb 2016

42

Advertorial

Fighting Loose and Resu ADVERTORIAL

e nail condition which is not only unsightly, but can also be the forerunner of or hide fungal nail infections. This article is ADVERTORIA oose nails,” a condition of mostly cosmetic or aesthetic importance, and “fungal infected nails” and how to address ‘Loose nails’ is a finger and toe nail condition which is not only unsightly, but can about the difference between “loose nails,” a condition of mostly cosmetic or aesthe LOOSE NAILS these problems.

‘Loose nails’ is a finger and toe nail condition which is not only unsightly, but can also be the forerunner of or hide Colour change of infections. loose nails fungal nail

A nail is loose when the nail plate becomes separated from the nail bed.

A loose nail usually starts from minor trauma such as an injury to the nail, or from jogging, nail biting, or aggressive manicuring; or from contact with irritants or excessive exposure to water. The first sign of a nail becoming loose is a change in its colour from pink to yellow or cream. The nail however remains attached around its edges. A loose nail is therefore not ‘loose’ so as if to fall off.

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have achieved regarding ct in 2007 a very old formula that does exactly this. The efficiency of this product has been provennothing over many so from as if to fall off.

HOW TO ACHIEVE THIS your big toe-nails areis,loose; let’s the accumulated their appearance, not so? action of its ingredients. Salicylic acid has keratolitic properties, that it softens keratin under theAnail Afrom pharmacist developed a product in 2007 from a very old formula that does exactly saywith jogging.

The one a This cavity nailinplate is also contains benzoicunder acid,the which, combination the salicylic acid hashas known anti-fungal recorded loose properties, nail withoutasaisfungus is decades; and relies on the dual action of its ingredients. Salicylic acid has keratolitic fungal infection, the other not. nowsothe cists ‘bible’ toideal say. habitat for fungal still a loose nail and needs more plate and with it the nail bed. It also contains benzoic acid, which, in combination wi Youinstart treating the fungal growth - an infection that can than just an anti-fungal for a the MARTINDALE; theofpharmacists refore causes the under-nail conditions to become suitable for re-growth nails and ‘bible’ so to say. spread to other nails.

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full recovery.

dy can and will then in most cases grow beautiful healthy nails to their original The product, Fix-4-Nails® therefore causes the under-nail conditions to become s s thé essential AID in the body’s natural restoring by re-growth of loose, degenerated unsuitable for fungi; and the body can and will then in most cases grow beautiful he s the only product, that we know of, that addresses this unsightly nail condition in splendour. This makes Fix-4-Nails thé essential AID in the body’s natural restoring by ix-4-Nails does not need to, but can be used simultaneously with oral antifungal Nail File Issue 6 Jan/Feb 2016 and / or fungal infected nails. It is the only product, that we know of, that addresses recommend the use of any other topical application of any sorts at the same time!

Advertorial

43

lting Degenerated Nails Once a nail is loose the only way it can recover, is for it to re-grow in unison with the nail bed to its original splendour! This is the reason why people often wrongly assume that the anti-fungal prescribed by the doctor was not effective; simply because it did not result in a healthy looking new nail.

For the nail to re-grow, favourable conditions need to exist under the nail - such as the nail bed being soft and flexible and fungus free.

Any living organism, including a fungus, needs specific ideal conditions to proliferate; that is to survive and flourish. Change these environmental conditions effectively and that organism disappears. This is a basic fact of life.

HOW TO ACHIEVE THIS A pharmacist developed a product in 2007 from a very old formula that does exactly this. The efficiency of this product has been proven over many decades; and relies on the dual action of its ingredients. Salicylic acid has keratolitic properties, that is, it softens the accumulated keratin under the nail plate and with it the nail bed. It also contains benzoic acid, which, in combination with the salicylic acid has known anti-fungal properties, as is recorded in the MARTINDALE; the pharmacists ‘bible’ so to say.

The product, Fix-4-Nails® therefore causes the under-nail conditions to become suitable for re-growth of nails and unsuitable for fungi; and the body can and will then in most cases grow beautiful healthy nails to their original splendour. This makes Fix-4-Nails thé essential AID in the body’s natural restoring by re-growth of loose, degenerated and / or fungal infected nails. It is the only product, that we know of, that addresses this unsightly nail condition in this effective ‘dual action’ way.

Fix-4-Nails does not need to, but can be used simultaneously with oral antifungal treatments; we do not however recommend the use of any other topical application of any sorts at the same time!

For more information visit www.loosenails.com or contact: Fix-4-Nails® info@fixfornails.co.za or 0861 999 907

Nail File Issue 6

Jan/Feb 2016

44

Nail Health

In the second part of the Busting Myths series of articles in Nail File, Sonette van Rensburg investigates myths and bogus remedies for nail disorders and diseases.

Nail File Issue 6

Jan/Feb 2016

MYTH – cutting a V into the centre of an ingrown nail. Ingrown nails are a common problem especially on the toes. It is believed that cutting a V into the middle of the toenail will relieve an ingrown nail by causing it to grow inwards towards the centre. This is not true as the nail grows from the cuticle out towards the free edge. The nail plate is attached with rails and grooves which are situated under the nail plate and on the nail bed, allowing it to grow forward. The best solution is to keep the nails short and square with the corners rounded. Do not try and remove them and avoid tight shoes which cause pressure. Should the toe get infected, which can sometimes happen, see a doctor or podiatrist.

Nail Health

MYTH – thin nail plates can be made thicker with products. This is not possible as the matrix, where the new nail cells develop and grow from, is what determines the thickness of your nail plate.

The best solution is to keep nails in a healthy condition and coat them with a nail coating to give them strength.

MYTH – removing and cutting cuticles allows polish to adhere better.

Why would we want to cut or remove the cuticles rather than pampering them? Many technicians seem to believe that by stripping or removing the cuticle it allows nail polish to adhere better. With proper manicuring techniques and products you can keep the nail plate clean and free from non-living skin tissue. Only

ever cut dry loose skin and hang nails. For cuticles that seem as if they are overhanging or thick, use a good quality professional cuticle oil on a daily basis.

The oil will not only nourish and keep the cuticles in a good condition, but will also make them more supple and shrink them, which means cutting will not be necessary.

MYTH – tips can change the shape of the natural nail. It is a myth that tips or sculptured nails can change the growth pattern of the natural nail plate.

Only the nail matrix determines plate shape, thickness and curvature of the nail.

45

Warts – are a virus and can be highly contagious. They should never be cut away or removed by a therapist or a nail professional as you will only spread the virus and make the situation worse.

You will also make yourself vulnerable to infection and may spread it to your other clients.

Refer more complicated and contagious conditions to experts who specialise in taking care of the problem effectively, like doctors and podiatrists.

Callouses and corns – cutting these away can only lead to the skin becoming thicker and tougher. Rather recommend regular treatments and products that are beneficial to softening and hydrating the skin, to achieve the best and safest V results.

MYTHS around removing warts, corns and callouses. Cutting away or trying to dissolve callouses, corns, bunions, warts, and thickened skin is not going to be an instant solution. Trying to solve the problem yourself could only result in injuries and further infections.

Nail File Issue 6

Jan/Feb 2016

46

Nail Health

MYTH – nail enhancements cause infections. This statement is not entirely true and can harm our industry if the real reasons are not fully understood.

Fungal and bacterial infections can be caused due to many different reasons. These infections are opportunistic, meaning that if you create the right environment in which they can form and thrive, then they will. The only reason an infection will occur between the nail enhancement and nail plate is if the incorrect application techniques are performed. It is essential to prepare the nail plate prior to application – this involves cleansing the nail plate, removing pathogens and ensuring no moisture, oil or dirt is trapped in between the nail enhancement and nail plate. A client who is ill and has a low immune system can be prone to getting an infection.

{ Nail File Issue 6

MYTH – using vinegar or bleach to detect and cure a fungal infection. Neither vinegar nor bleach will detect an infection or cure it, in fact it will only disguise the infection. Rather refer your client to a doctor who will be able to establish how serious the infection is and can prescribe the correct medication by taking a culture to identify the type of infection.

It is your responsibility as nail professionals to ensure not only your own health and safety but also that of the client, her nails and skin. I truly believe that when in doubt, then leave it well alone and consult with someone who knows.

Jan/Feb 2016

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Always remember that as a nail professional safe working practices are highly important and must become part of your regular daily routine in the salon environment. Never perform hand, foot or nail services if you suspect a serious medical condition. Salon treatments can be very beneficial for certain conditions and can encourage skin health and circulation, however always proceed with caution and avoid the use of sharp implements, blades and aggressive manicure or pedicure techniques.

It is your responsibility as nail professionals to ensure not only your own health and safety but also that of the client, her nails and skin. I truly believe that when in doubt, then leave it well alone and consult with someone who knows.

Q&A

47

Top Tech Talk In this issue of Nail File, we put the spotlight on Patience Mlotshwa, winner of the Sculpting: Intermediate Category at the Professional Beauty Nail Competi tion held in Midrand in August last year.

Where were you born and raised?

Bulawayo, Zimbabwe.

Did you have a particular interest in nails when growing up?

I had absolutely no interest in nails, but my Mom owned a very successful hair salon in Bulawayo. She made me work there from the age of 15 to earn my pocket money. In hindsight I was extremely fortunate to have this opportunity. Not only did I learn this amazing craft, but I also learnt to deal with all types of clients.

For how many years have you been a qualified nail technician?

15 years. V

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Q&A

Where did you train?

I studied at technicon and thereafter had a lot of in-house training throughout my career. It was not until I joined RUB Skin Centre in Bryanston that I managed to get certified. RUB is very education-driven, which is great as it keeps us up to date and ahead of the pack in terms of knowledge and skill.

In terms of nail treatments – what would you say is your speciality? Sculpting?

Nail art?

Because I am so comfortable doing all types of nail systems, I don’t have a favourite.

Do you have any favourite professional nail brands?

LCN is becoming quite an obsession with me, as they are incredibly encouraging and

motivating. But I am happy to work with all nail systems and equally comfortable with gel and liquid & powder.

How did it feel to win the Sculpting: Intermediate Category at the Professional Beauty Nail Competition?

Amazing! I wish my late Mom was around to see what I have achieved, and to see how happy I am in the field that she forced me to follow. It was also the best feeling to see how proud my kids were of my achievement. My confidence has increased in leaps and bounds and it really shows in my retail skills now.

Nail File Issue 6

Jan/Feb 2016

Q&A

Have you taken part in any other competitions during your career?

I was recently invited to participate in the LCN masters class with five other nail technicians. I didn’t win, but I learnt a lot and I loved participating. The winner of that particular competition was another nail techie from RUB. So we really are a team of winners.

How do you deal with pressure during a competition?

Preparation, preparation, preparation. It’s important to know about the competition and what the judges are looking for. Always look professional and you will have that immediate advantage. I am also used to dealing with pressure as I deal with many demanding high-end clients.

How do you prepare for competitions?

Attention to detail is exceptionally important, and doing your research as to what

49

Have you noticed any trends in terms of the colours or nail art designs that your clients request?

Thanks to Pinterest, Instagram and Facebook, my clients are very savvy in nail trends. And they insist I re-create images they see on social media.

judges will be looking for is key. Practise again and again until you are confident. I also recommend participating in as much training as possible before the big day. Not many salons allow the time off to practise and go to educational classes, but I am extremely lucky that RUB Skin Centre encourages it.

things. It’s very important to get out of your comfort zone, because that is when the magic happens.

Why do you think it’s important for nail technicians to take part in nail competitions?

Please describe the most amazing piece of nail art that you’ve ever seen.

Nail techies get to discover new trends and learn new tricks of the trade. They are exposed to current ideas at competitions and will always find new ways of doing

At the Professional Beauty Nail Competition, I saw someone do the most amazing 3D Cinderella nails, with dress, pearls and everything.

Not many salons allow the time off to practise and go to educational classes, but I am extremely lucky that RUB Skin Centre encourages it.

Nail File Issue 6

Jan/Feb 2016

Calgel