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Jan/Feb 2019

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Shades of

black Treating African Skin

incorporating

Shopping around Salon furniture & equipment

Forecast

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Spa & medical aesthetics trends


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Welcome

very January brings with it mixed feelings – astonishment that the previous year passed so quickly and fervent hopes that the new year will be considerably better than the last. As our lead news story reveals – there is fairly strong sentiment in some quarters that 2019 may well yield a more positive economic climate than 2018, which was a challenging year for the beauty industry. The article makes the point that, along with the encouraging signs of economic upturn in the country, it is important is for South Africans to ditch their negative perceptions about the country, as positivity breeds more positivity. So fellow beauty professionals, onwards and upwards! The January/February issue traditionally includes a special focus on treating African skin in terms of the characteristics of this skin type, what product ingredients are most suited to treating it, and what should be avoided at all costs. While the old adage ‘black don’t crack’ certainly applies to African skin, which shows age, wear and tear much more slowly than Caucasian skin, black skin requires special care as it is particularly prone to problems like hyperpigmentation. Our special feature includes an article by an expert, namely Dr Portia Gumede, who focuses on the importance of choosing skincare specifically according to your skin tone. Outfitting a salon, spa or medical aesthetics clinic requires a considerable investment, given the cost of furniture and equipment. Quality, durability, design and functionality, as well as the reputation and track record of your supplier, are all important factors to take into account, as our special feature on this subject points out. Here’s to a fabulous 2019! Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

@PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SOUTH AFRICA @probeautyexpo @PROBEAUTYSA

PROFESSIONALBEAUTY

®

LIGHT YEARS AWAY® brightening skincare system with anti-aging

Jan/Feb 2019

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incorporating

ACTIVE MARINE C COMPLEX

Subscribe 7 issues for R510 (RSA) To receive your copy of Professional Beauty call 011 781 5970

In his never ending quest for eternal youth, Dr. Brandt has turned to the sea and uncovered a technological breakthrough in skin whitening.

dr. brandt® light years away® system targets and controls hyperpigmentation to whiten, lighten and brighten skin, bringing back the youthful, luminous complexion from years ago.

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Fades dark spots & other skin discolorations Prevents dark spots from surfacing Evens skin tone & brightens complexion Nourishes skin for a more healthy, youthful look & feel

TREATING AFRICAN SKIN • SALON FURNITURE & EQUIPMENT • ANTIOXIDANT SKINCARE

The result – dr. brandt® light years away® formulated with ACTIVE MARINE C COMPLEX, a powerful blend of marine extracts and highly stable vitamin C, fortified with anti-aging properties and potent botanicals.

Publisher Mark Moloney

011 781 5970

Managing Director Yolanda Knott

083 654 9098 yolanda@probeauty.co.za

Commercial Director Philip Woods 011 781 5970

phil@probeauty.co.za

Editor Joanna Sterkowicz

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joanna@probeauty.co.za

Art Director Alois Sajanga

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alois@fmexpo.org

Marketing Manager Stacey Platt 011 781 5970

Shades of

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Sales Manager Alexandra Norvall

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ean@advacos.co.za | Phone: +27(0)66 485 5902

Spa & medical aesthetics trends

On the cover Cover source: www.shutterstock.com

mark@probeauty.co.za

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Cape Town Sales Executive Carla Hamman 084 894 6172 carla@probeauty.co.za Sales Executive Pholani Sithole

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Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970 The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher. Additional pics: www.istockphoto.com, www.shutterstock.com

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In this issue... Regulars

5 Industry news

18 Sharpen your soft skills

30 Honing in on colour

What’s hot and happening in the hair industry

20 New era for Bryanston salon

38 Waging war against free radicals

Spa Focus

Tracking the industry with stats

Salon / spa furniture & equipment

Skincare with antioxidants

23 A peek into the crystal ball

Medical Aesthetics

40 Rejuvenating the future

Spa trends 2019

All your questions answered

17 Insider

The Skin & Nail Lounge changes ownership

All the latest launches

15 Ask the Experts

35 Browsing the showroom

43 In the market

Business

Treating African skin

Salon Focus

Client-centricity and the customer journey

Local and international news

34 Crowning glory

40

Special Features

Medical aesthetics trends 2019

27 Cape Town Conference & Buyer’s Forum

Nails

47 NailFile

What to expect from this event

Issue 24

28 Should you choose skincare based on your skin tone?

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Dr Portia Gumede provides the answers

17 online @ probeauty.co.za


5 News

News Positive outlook for beauty industry in 2019? It was announced on the 4th of December that the South African economy grew 2.2% in the third quarter of 2017 and emerged from recession following two quarters of negative growth. Says Debbie Merdjan, CEO of the Camelot Spa Group: “The performance of the South African health and wellness industry is closely correlated to the strength of the South African economy, which is showing signs of a sustained turnaround. While the footfall in our spas is down year on year, the individual client spend has increased. “World oil prices declined by 30% in late 2018 and the rand is showing strength against the dollar, sterling and the Euro. Lower oil prices and a stronger currency resulted in a sharp drop in the petrol price in December, leaving consumers with more disposable income. The lower fuel price will also result in a drop in consumer price inflation, which is currently comfortably within the Reserve Bank’s target range, at 5.2%. Low inflation contains costs and allows for moderate price increases within the spa industry, which promotes higher revenue.” Merdjan believes that sentiment in South Africa is improving. “This is due to President Cyril Ramaphosa slowly weaning out questionable Ministers and committing to orderly land reform, as well as the eradication of corruption and tackling the huge debt burdens of State-owned entities. As the image

of brand South Africa improves, so will tourism pick up with positive spinoffs for the spa industry.” One negative, according to Merdjan, was the quarter percentage increase in the repo rate in November. “This is unjustified, considering the low inflation rate and South Africa just emerging from recession.” A Johannesburg-based skincare distributor concurs that South Africa’s emergence from technical recession bodes well for 2019. “The lower oil price will have a huge impact on business. But from a fiscal and economic point of view, South Africa is still where it was in 2018 in terms of the volatile rand and the uncertainty about the country. Consequently, people are holding back on spend. I’ve seen many salons close down but just as many news salons open. However, it takes a lot longer for new salons to develop a steady purchasing power.” The manager of a high end spa in Durban noted that while it only reached its Spa Targets for a few months within 2018, it saw an increase in general revenue compared to 2017. “This may be due to price increases, as the average spend was more or less the same. Going forward we need to be price sensitive and really watch costs and expenditure without compromising the guest client experience.” The spa manager believes that Eskom’s implementing of load shedding is adversely affecting

those spas without backup power, as they are unable to perform certain treatments during electricity blackouts. A leading professional product distributor notes that 15 of its accounts (spread across salons and spas) closed during 2018. ‘On the flipside,” says the distributor, “we’ve seen another 20 businesses completely change their business model and achieve double digit growth. They have streamlined staff and now include an upsell on every single treatment. Furthermore, they have changed their social media and are offering big discounts on memberships and contracts.” Stav Dimitriadis, CEO of Twincare International, notes that 2018 was a tough year for all retail. “Our company covers three sectors – beauty, nails and hair. I think that in the first half of 2019 the economy will still be under pressure. The big problem is uncertainly, with people unwilling to spend or invest in South Africa. Once we get the 2019 General Elections out of the way and depending on the outcome, the economy should improve.” Merdjan adds: “There are numerous predictions that emerging markets will experience a far better year in 2019. The South African economy and the health and wellness industry are likely to be in the forefront of the improved sentiment and economic conditions.”

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Get even with VITAMIN C Vitamin C in skin care is experiencing a resurgence and growing rapidly in popularity, but Environ has always known vitamin C is essential for healthy and radiant skin. Having pioneered the use of stabilised and highly effective forms of vitamin C in skin care, Environ’s powerful arsenal of essential vitamins and antioxidants have always included vitamin A and C to ensure these essential skin nutrients are replenished daily.

Photo-ageing, pigmentation or uneven skin tone continues to be a main concern for all skin ethnicities, which is why consumers around the world are actively seeking targeted solutions with derivatives of vitamin C to help even out skin tone and brighten tired or lacklustre skin.

“Both vitamin A and C are irreplacable for healthy skin.� - Dr Des Fernandes, Environ Founder and Scientific Director

Vitamin C has many beneficial properties for healthy skin, including the key role it plays in the production of collagen in your skin. Vitamin C is also a potent antioxidant which is mostly valued for treating skin pigmentation due to its presence of tyrosinase inhibitors. These inhibitors help prevent enzymes in your body from creating excessive amounts of melanin thereby breaking down existing dark spots and preventing hyperpigmentation. Vitamin C is thus able to lighten the appearance of hyperpigmentation without changing the colour of normal skin.


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ENVIRON’S TARGETED SOLUTIONS FOR EVEN, FLAWLESS RADIANCE. The Evenescence Range contains a scientifically-advanced combination of powerful antioxidants, which work in perfect synergy with Environ’s essential vitamin A ranges to help target and improve uneven skin tone and pigmentation.

“Using the right formulations of very special ingredients such as vitamin A, vitamin C and peptides, unique skin treatment techniques and being patient with treatment, the appearance of discoloured skin can be smoothed, renewed and repaired.” - Dr Ernst Eiselen, MBChB, FRACGP and Medical Advisor to Environ Skin Care

CLARIFYING LOTION This light and non-oily lotion can be used morning and evening by massaging a small amount directly onto the affected areas or all over the face (after the cleansing routine). The high levels of Vitamin B3 and SepiWhite-MSH™ help to control melanin formation and melanosome transfer to reveal a more even and radiant appearance.

C-BOOST This light, non-greasy clarifying cream contains a unique derivative of vitamin C – Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate – to help improve the appearance of dull, uneven skin tone and sun damaged skin. This form of vitamin C also boosts collagen production, neutralises damaging free radicals and brightens complexion.


News

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inbrief // Dermalogica South Africa has opened its 13th Concept Store, in Sandton City, Johannesburg. Positioned as the flagship store in South Africa, it occupies the largest footprint in the country and features a new look design and décor. // Studies carried out by the University of New South Wales and Macquarie University discovered that increasing pressure to conform to the Instagram body ideal is creating a society where people are unhappy with their own physiques. Participants in the study became increasingly unhappy with their body the longer they spent looking at celebrity “fitness inspiration” images. // Market research provider Euromonitor International reports that the global colour cosmetics market grew by a healthy 7% in 2017, with a further compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 4% expected over the next five years, compared with just 2% between 2012 and 2017. // The Lash Collection (LC) has introduced a new lash cleansing routine which can be implemented just five minutes after application of extensions, thus reducing the time for airborne vapours from the adhesive to settle on the skin and eyelid area. This new routine utilises nebulisers and nanomisters to help speed up the adhesive curing process, following which the LC Foaming Cleanser is applied, as well as the lash wand. // The Spa & Wellness Association of Africa (SWAA) has announced its support of World Wellness Weekend (W3), which was celebrated at 633 properties in 88 countries in 2018. SWAA aims to advocate the W3 objective of switching to healthier lifestyles through ‘weekends of wellness’ to the African continent.

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Regional first for Four Seasons Spa Westcliff

In what is a first for Middle East & Africa, the Four Seasons Spa Westcliff in Johannesburg recently qualified to offer Biologique Recherche treatments to cancer patients. Says Sandie Johannessen, Four Seasons Senior Spa Director, Middle East & Africa: “Our Westcliff spa has had the Biologique Recherche brand since 2016 but for regular treatments only, wherein we use the brand’s Skin Instant Lab diagnostic machine, which is not suitable for cancer patients. “In 2017, Biologique Recherche partnered with the Wellness for Cancer initiative to adapt facial and body treatments specifically to suit

the needs of those who have been touched by cancer. Four Seasons Spa Westcliff is the first to have trained therapists in these treatments for the Middle East & Africa region. The aim is to have over 70 countries trained to perform these treatments to expand the reach of this great initiative by providing wellness to those who need it the most.” Johannessen notes that Biologique Recherche is found at 22 Four Seasons properties around the world. “Biologique Rechereche recognises the need for ultimate customisation in treatments and that is what most appeals to us. The brand’s flexibility in terms of being able to mix various products to best match the client’s needs really sets it apart from other brands.”

Environ wins international award Environ Skin Care has been named the Top Medical Skin Care company in the prestigious 2018 Aesthetic Everything Awards. Voted on by consumers, the Aesthetic Everything Aesthetic and Cosmetic Medicine Awards is a global competition run from the US that recognises excellence across a range of categories. Says Dr Des Fernandes, founder and scientific director at Environ Skin Care: “This award recognises our mission to future-proof skins across the globe and recognises the efficacy of our products, which help create the appearance of more youthful, healthy-looking and beautiful skin.”

The Cape Town-based Environ has received over a hundred other recognitions for outstanding products worldwide.


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News

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Double triumph for Saxon Spa For the second consecutive year, The Saxon Spa in Sandton, Johannesburg was judged Africa’s Best Hotel Spa, as well as South Africa’s Best Hotel Spa, at the 4th Annual World Spa Awards held in Maldives recently. Saxon Spa manager, Tanya Lopes, attended the event together with therapist, Faith Gogo. Says Lopes: “It’s a great privilege to be recognised by the World Spa Awards for the second year running. I must say that it was amazing to be able share this experience and attend the awards with Faith, one of our top therapists.”

Votes for the World Spa Awards are cast by professionals working within the spa industry – senior executives, travel buyers, tour operators, agents and media and by the public. The Saxon Spa re-opened in November 2016 after a major refurb by internationally acclaimed interior designer, Stephen Falcke, incorporating the healing properties of Himalayan salt into the design as well as therapies. New treatments recently launched at the Saxon Spa include the Saxon African

Opulence Signature Journey, as well as the Mother-To-Be Pregnancy Journey, adding to the existing Signature Journeys that the Saxon Spa is known for.

Garcia appointed manager at Jiva Grande Spa Francisco Caceres Garcia has joined Taj Cape Town as the new manager at Jiva Grande Spa. Says Garcia: “I look forward to working together with the team at Jiva Grande Spa at Taj Cape Town to help the spa assume its rightful place at the forefront of the industry.” Garcia has over 10 years of experience managing iconic properties and spa groups, including Amani Spas (chief operating officer and group spa operations director); Arabella Hotel & Spa (spa director); Mount

Grace Country House & Spa (spa manager) and Rooms Division Manager at Aquila Private Game Reserve. On his watch, Mount Grace Country House & Spa won Professional Beauty’s Best Hotel/ Resort Spa in South Africa (2010) and he won the Les Nouvelles Esthetiques Spa Manager of the Year Award in 2011. During his time with the Arabella Hotel and Spa, the property was named Africa’s Leading Spa Resort and South Africa’s Leading Spa Resort in the 2012 World Travel Awards.

eyeSlices founder launches entrepreneurship hub Kerryne Krause-Neufeldt, founder of eyeSlices Professional and a former Professional Beauty Entrepreneur of the Year Awardwinner, has launched a hub for budding entreprenuers aimed at providing free guidance and information based on her personal experiences. The Entrepreneurship’s Dirty Laundry website (https://www. entrepreneurshipsdirtylaundry. org/) went live on 20 November 2018. Says Krause-Neufeldt: “Anyone is welcome to use the website for free. I believe it is part of my purpose in life to do this for

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people and I hope the beauty industry does take advantage of it. “Entrepreneurship’s Dirty Laundry is designed to provide a chronological programme so I advise entrepreneurs – budding, start up and existing – to follow it step by step, as I strongly believe in building foundations first.” As founder of the multi-awardwinning eyeSlices Professional, Krause-Neufeldt identified a gap in the market for a product that treats the eye area, specifically targeting puffiness and dark circles. “My entrepreneurship journey has seen me crossing every chasm,

from idea to R&D, to prototyping, to product development, to business development, to exports, to raising soft funding, venture capital and private equity, to building a global brand.”


Available at leading spas and at www.babor.co.za.

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News

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Virtual reality therapy targets spa sector Launched on 1 November 2018, The Wend is a South Africaninvented virtual reality (VR) device that can be used by spas as a 5-minute relaxation session either prior to, or post, treatment. “The Wend provides virtual reality therapy (VRT) by transporting the spa guest into a relaxing, immersive virtual environment with natural

sounds,” says Cheryl De Beer, a partner in the company along with founder, Melloney Rijnvis, and technology expert, Renitha Ramjattan. De Beer continues: “In designing the device we have taken the needs of spas into account. They specifically wanted a relaxation product, as opposed to destinations or ‘wonders of the world’ products, and they requested that each relaxation session be five minutes long. A spa group recently allowed us to trail The Wend in their properties and it went very well. “We were the first company to launch in South Africa with this concept. VR in the spa sector is

very new – when we registered our company we identified one company in the US that also does it. Modern technology is what causes us stress so we want to use modern technology to relieve that stress.” De Beer points out that The Wend does not aim to replace anything in the spa. “It’s a relaxation treatment that the spa can either offer as a free add-on or charge for. The Wend also minimises the need that some clients feel to chit-chat with therapists, which can be tiring. We also believe The Wend can help spa productivity in terms of filling slots.”

DYME App expands footprint Launched in Cape Town and Durban last year, the Uber-like DYME Beauty On Demand App that connects freelance artists / beauty professionals to clients is currently rolling out in Johannesburg. Says Sheila Otieno-Osanya, the newly appointed head of Johannesburg operations: “Thus far we have 170 artists on our books across the three cities. For now, DYME artists offer hair and barber services, make-up, nails, manicures & pedicures, massages, lash extensions, waxing, threading and facials. We will increase the number of services as we take on board artists with additional skills. DYME also offers couples treatments, pamper parties, corporate wellness events and bridal packages.” A main priority of DYME is to provide security to both artists and clients through technology and innovation. DYME can track the artist’s movement and there is also a star rating system, as well as client histories. Clients can register via Facebook and have to include their credit card details.

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To register for DYME, freelance artists send through their CVs and certificates, which are vetted. Face to face and practical interviews are then conducted. Artists get paid 80% of the value of the services they perform. DYME is in the process of partnering with mobile spa companies and plans eventually to partner with spas / salons to help increase their foot traffic during quiet business periods. DYME is not the first on demand beauty app in South Africa but

Otieno-Osanya explains that it sells the App and its features, not the services offered. She continues: “It is the artists who sell the services as they are the frontline of the business. DYME is a platform that provides support through technology and social media and provides convenience to consumers.” The co-founders of DYME are Cape Town based Larissa Zyamzina and Roger Heunis, who plan to make DYME a leading international brand.


News

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Wellness tourism on massive growth spurt A new study by the Global Wellness Institute (GWI) reveals that wellness tourism is currently a $639 billion market and set to reach $919 billion by 2022. According to the GWI’s ‘Global Wellness Tourism Economy’ report, some 6.5 million wellness trips were made to Africa in 2017, generating $4.8 billion in expenditure.

The report’s first edition in 2013 put wellness tourism on the world’s radar, defining it as “travel associated with the pursuit of maintaining or enhancing one’s personal wellbeing’. As per the GWI report, wellness tourism has grown from a $563 billion market in 2015 to $639 billion in 2017, or 6.5% annually, more than twice as fast as tourism overall (3.2%).

Say GWI senior researchers, Katherine Johnston and Ophelia Yeung: “Wellness, hospitality and travel are now converging in unprecedented ways, from the ‘healthy hotel’ concept going utterly mainstream to airports and airlines, to cruises injecting so much wellness programming, to the profusion of ever-morecreative wellness destinations, retreats and tours.”

Sophrology takes root in SA A new to South Africa, holistic well-being technique that is widely used all over Europe is being targeted at the spa sector, both in terms of incorporation into treatment menus, as well for therapists themselves. According to Sophrology South Africa’s Ishana Maharaj, sophrology is a complementary technique created to enable the mind and body to work simultaneously. Says Maharaj: “Sophrology has been practiced for over 56 years and is particularly popular in Switzerland, France, UK and Spain. It consists of various simple physical and mental exercises that, when practiced regularly, lead to a healthy, relaxed body and a calm, alert mind. “I have already approached several high end spas in South Africa that have shown interest in sophrology, specifically to enhance the well-being of their therapists. They realise that therapists are not robots and have their own lives and problems.” Maharaj notes that sophrology would be an ideal half hour treatment addition to spa massages and even facials. “Generally, people who come to spas are suffering from stress. I believe that spas should conduct an upfront, personalised interaction and questionnaire as to how guests are feeling physically,

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emotionally and mentally. Spas treat the body but they don’t treat mind and spirit. Sophrology brings the guest to a total relaxed state – calm, zoned in and balanced. It’s called the ‘sophroliminal level’. This is the initial stage that I believe the guest needs to be in before a massage or sound therapy. “Sophrology activates, rejuvenates and stimulates every single cell in the body, even skin cells, hence its relevance to facial treatments.”

Transformation Maharaj herself discovered sophrology while living in Switzerland. “I’d left the corporate banking sector in South Africa and was looking for a new avenue when I came across sophrology. Switzerland has a few big cities like Geneva and Lucerne and then lots of little towns in between, each of which has between eight and 10 sophrologists. And, every school has one. “I researched sophrology thoroughly before embarking on my studies, which were done through the internationally accredited course in Geneva. My research revealed how sophrology transforms lives. What gives me joy is witnessing a positive transformation in my clients. I would like to see spa guests experience that same transformation. Sophrology is not a quick fix.

We need to constantly recharge the spa guest but also the therapist.”

6 Systems Sophrology splits the body into 6 Systems: (1) Brain, eyes, nose, ears, mouth & jaw; (2) Neck, throat, shoulders, back of arms, back of hands & fingers; (3) Chest, upper back, underside of the arms, palms of the hands, front of fingers; (4) Area between chest & navel, middle of back, internal organs – liver, kidneys, stomach; (5) Lower abdomen, lower back, hips, legs, feet & toes; and (6) Point of navel signifies the whole body. The sophrologist conducts simple exercises in each of the six systems, one session per system. Sophrology exercises and breathing techniques can be customised according to each person.


Business Tips

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ask

the experts

Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.

I’m a spa owner wanting to groom one of my therapists into a management role. What skills should I be looking out for? People skills are essential and although these can be taught, someone with a natural feel for personnel is already half way to being a fantastic leader. A spa manager will need to recruit a team of good therapists, handle their different personalities to get the most out of them, and help them work together as a unit. They may need to effectively resolve conflicts within the team, so clear communication is essential. Spa managers will have to juggle customer-facing communication, as well as deal with the corporate demands from business partners and head office. They are required to have a paradoxical mixture of personal humility and professional will. The role needs somebody who can help the business run efficiently like a piece of machinery, whilst maintaining a real sense of human nature and approachability.

High standards and detail The finer details of a spa experience are what guests often remember, and team members who recognise these often missed

elements are more likely to improve on them. These team members often have high standards, valuing first-rate customer service and recognising which areas of the business can be improved, even with just the slightest of tweaks.

Confidence Leadership takes confidence, so a good leader will have to believe in themselves enough to delegate tasks and give advice to junior members of the team, and may need to stick with their gut feel even if questioned. Confidence in one’s own leadership also gains the respect of the team. Confident leaders are typically happier people with a ‘can do’ attitude, who recognise success and accept feedback. True confidence arises when someone feels that they have all the fundamental skills for their role, even if they haven’t experienced every possible challenge or situation.

Understanding the importance of marketing Great spa managers will understand that the business needs

to be communicating with audiences outside of the spa, just as it communicates to guests within the hotel /resort and the spa itself. The spa market is constantly changing, so it’s important to equip spa managers with the right skills to ensure they can stay ahead of the curve, whatever movements or trends the spa industry may bring.

The ability to stick to a budget Spa managers are trusted with the responsibility of managing budgets and overseeing the financial running of the spa on a day-to-day basis. Therefore, therapists considering spa management roles should first consider their attitudes to budgets and if they have been able to stick to them in the past, as great spa managers are often those who are naturally cautious when it comes to finances.

Nikos Kouremenos is Education & Project Manager at Spa Business Education, Raison d’Etre’s online education provider. nikos@rdespas.com

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Business Tips

16 What should I know about Facebook in terms of social media marketing that I don’t know already?

As you may (or may not) be aware, the same genius who owns Facebook (Mark Zuckerberg), also owns Instagram and WhatsApp. If you imagine his future plans, it will be to keep the world focused on these three platforms. So, in a way, his opposition is Google (your website) and YouTube (the largest video platform for many years, also owned by Google). Zuckerberg has created Facebook Watch for videos, but this is not yet available in South Africa.

Paid advertising vs organic A year ago, Facebook said it would be showing less business posts and currently any (organic) unpaid posting you are doing could be seen by as little as 2% of your followers. Their reasoning is that the way we are experiencing

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Facebook is becoming unhealthy and the intention is to go back to how it was in the beginning, i.e. a platform to interact socially with your friends (without being bombarded by businesses). Therefore, for your salon or spa’s business page, it is essential to interact with your audience by using voting polls, asking questions, etc. and then actually responding to comments and opening up conversations. While this will help raise your post views, paid advertising is definitely the way to go.

Targeting guide When advertising on Facebook, a long list and wide variety of options are available to choose from as far as reaching the right audience is concerned. Example:

age, area, interests, behaviours and so much more. Never before has there been an advertising medium that can be targeted with such precision AND show you results! I have laid out these options on my website www.saloncentral.co.za (select Marketing Tips). The wide variety of options will possibly open up other ideas for promotions in your salon; for example you can reach people who are engaged to be married, or pregnant, or have anniversaries coming up. Ursula Brett is a marketing & social media coach who has been marketing a variety of professional hair and beauty brands for over 30 years. She manages social media pages and websites and also trains on the subject, hosting Marketing & Social Media seminars. ursulabrett@gmail.com


17 Business Trends

Insider

Insider, our exclusive business round-up, polled beauty salons and spas in South Africa to track business in October 2018.

Insider Spa

Although the majority of you reported an increase in treatment business in October 2018 as compared to the same time last year, many spas attributed the increase to price increases and larger complements of staff, rather than a sudden big influx of guests over the period. Retail sales did not fare well at all, with the majority of spas reporting a decrease as compared to October 2017. It seems that while guests are willing to spend on treatments, they are not that keen to purchase home care. As to what you expected to sell most of over the summer months, the biggest sellers were predicted to be moisturisers, exfoliation and Christmas Gift Sets. The most popular hair removal method in spas polled is unquestionably waxing, with a few spas opting for sugaring. All the spas we spoke to have in-house training and / or mentorship schemes.

Insider Salon

As has been evident in the Insider column throughout this year, the majority of salons in South Africa have been severely affected by the adverse economy, with most reporting either no improvement in business compared to the same time last year, or in fact a drop in turnover. Encouragingly though, compared to August and September this year, business in October did pick up a bit, as it usually does in the summer months. Retail sales were predictably dismal, with clients no doubt opting for low priced non-professional products. Moisturiser and sun protection were expected to be the biggest sellers over the summer months. We asked you what your most popular hair removal method is and not surprisingly, most of you said waxing, with some of the salons more inclined towards medical aesthetics treatments saying that laser was their most requested hair removal method. Most salons polled view on-going training of their staff as a vital aspect of their business. PB

The month in numbers

SALON 47

SPA 65 Average treatment room occupancy

Average treatment room occupancy

%

%

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN OCTOBER 2018 COMPARE WITH OCTOBER 2017?

66% 18% 16% Better

SAME

WORSE

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN OCTOBER 2018 COMPARE WITH OCTOBER 2017?

19% Better

23% SAME

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN OCTOBER 2018 COMPARE WITH OCTOBER 2017?

43% 26% 31% Better

SAME

WORSE

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN OCTOBER 2018 COMPARE WITH OCTOBER 2017?

58%

21%

WORSE

Better

25%

54% WORSE

SAME

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Business Tips

18

Sharpen your soft

skills The buzz terms at the moment are definitely ‘client-centric’ and ‘customer journey’. But what do these terms actually mean and how do you as a therapist or salon owner integrate them into the business? Ayesha Rajah provides the answers.

B

eing client-centric is an approach to doing business in a way that focuses on creating a positive experience for the customer. Client-centric businesses ensure that the customer is at the centre of a business’s philosophy, operations or ideas. The customer journey is the complete summation of experiences that customers go through when interacting with your company and brand. Both the above equate to a whole new way of interacting with clients, one in which all the touch points in your business are centered around how they make the client feel.

Consistency A large amount of consideration should be spent on consistency; if a standard has been set you need to ensure the entire team follows protocol. For example, if one staff member stands to greet clients as they walk into the salon or spa, all staff members need to do the same. Clients love the familiarly of consistency and knowing what to except.

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Interaction Here are some soft skills to enhance your client-centric skills: 1. Environmental: room temperature setting and music preference should be documented on the client consultation card. 2. Hygiene: ensure that you have made your client aware that your hands are clean and thoroughly warmed up prior to treatment. It does not need to be done in an overt manner, just a simple sound of hands being washed is enough. 3. Going beyond: this is in the little things, like assisting your client with putting her shoes back on after a pedicure; having a glass of water waiting for her after a massage, etc. 4. Be genuinely interested: document any important occurrences in your client’s life and ensure you enquire about them, such as an important event, holiday, etc. This will ensure that your client feels special. Never speak about internal salon or spa affairs. 5. Give clear direction: ensure that you client knows exactly what will be happening at each stage of her journey. Never leave her feeling unsure.

6. Educate: part of being a therapist is imparting knowledge to your client – she must feel that you are an authority in your field so keep abreast of the latest advancements and trends in the industry. 7. Attitude: this is not considered a soft skill but most certainly one of the key aspects clients pick up on. They also pick up negative energy so don’t show negative emotions in front of clients. Incorporate soft skills into your SOPs (Standard Operating Procedures), refiine them on a quarterly basis and ensure they become second nature. It’s how you make clients feel, coupled with your interpersonal skills, that make them loyal. PB

Ayesha Rajah, MD of A&I Importers and owner of Urban Bliss Wellness Spa, has been involved in the spa and skincare industry for more than 20 years. Rajah also facilitates training for Phytomer, Priori and SkinDoctors. ayesharajah@ai-importers.co.za


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Salon Focus

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New era for

Bryanston salon

Established neighbourhood salon, The Skin & Nail Lounge, changed ownership late last year. Joanna Sterkowicz speaks to new owner, Philippa Abbott, about her plans for the business.

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s a seasoned salon and spa consultant, Philippa Abbott was motivated to buy The Skin & Nail Lounge in Byranston, Johannesburg by her desire to have her finger directly on the pulse of salon operations. “This is the first salon I’ve ever owned,” says Abbott. “I have a big dream for the part I want to ultimately play in the spa and beauty industry and this was the next step along the journey. “Furthermore, I believe that as a consultant it is vital to be on the ground myself so that I can accurately consult to other owners from a confident and informed perspective.”

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The Skin & Nail Lounge was not the first salon that Abbott had the chance of buying. “But it was the first one I could see myself running,” she continues. “When I was approached by the previous owner [Gina Gall], I just knew that this was the right place and went ahead with the purchase. It all happened so fast though – my head is still spinning but my husband and I are really happy that we made the call to just go with it.”

Strong appeal The fact that the salon is in a very busy centre (Bryan Park on Grosvenor Road) with ‘great anchor tenants’ was really appealing to Abbott.

“I also love the way the salon is set up – it’s beautiful inside and has been well maintained. The salon has a bathroom inside for the guests too, so this is great as clients hate to be inconvenienced by using shopping centre WCs. “Because it’s so well established, the salon has a good and loyal database. The staff are well trained and very experienced, as well as really humble and open to change. So it really was an appealing prospect all round,” comments Abbott. She plans to continue the salon’s existing strategy of cross-promotions with the other shops in the centre, such as the hair salon. She believe this is a source of marketing that is not only undervalued, but vital for the growth of the salon.


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Management At the moment Abbott is managing the salon herself, with her consultancy, Spa Sense as the backbone. “This is definitely working well as we use the expertise of the Spa Sense team to ensure I have all areas of management covered,” she states. “I am changing quite a lot of the business structure of the salon, so it will be nice to bring someone in when all the systems are in order and rolling. But I will want to remain hands on as much as possible.” She notes that the existing staff have been wonderfully accommodating and welcoming. At the moment there are three therapists but Abbott would like to grow this

Spa at a glance

Changes While there are no immediate plans to rebrand the business or change the décor, Abbott reveals that this will take place at a later stage. From a product perspective, Abbott has introduced SIXAesthetix into the treatment menu. “I love the brand and the microneedling pen is amazing,” she explains. “I have also introduced Dr Schrammek’s herbal Green Peel and the supporting retail range. There is a good, strong following with the brands that are already in salon, such as RégimA and Lamelle, so I will retain these. I am also sticking to OPI as my nail brand as this is what the clients like and they are my number one concern.”

Owner: Philippa Abbott Manager: Spa Sense Number of treatment rooms: 2 Number of pedicure stations: 4 Number of manicure stations: 4 Number of full-time therapists: 3 Brands: RègimA, SIXAesthetix, Lamelle, Dr Schrammek, OPI

to at least six in the next few months. She would also like to extend the salon’s operational hours in the long term if necessary. PB

online @ probeauty.co.za


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Africa’s BIGGEST beauty and hair trade show The Professional Beauty Exhibitions offer salon and spa owners, managers, therapists and nail technicians the perfect opportunity to engage their senses. Whether choosing new products, looking for new ideas, the latest trends and learning new techniques.

Diarise next year’s dates now so that you don’t miss out! Cape Town

Durban

Johannesburg

18 March 2019

2 June 2019

1&2 September 2019

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Spa Focus

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peek into the

crystal ball Predicting trends in the beauty and/or wellness industry is, to a certain extent, relatively easy to do if you are switched on and in tune with what is happening. Marisa Dimitriadis tells us more.

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he past two years have proved to be quite eye-opening in terms of trend prediction and even buying habits, etc. Our market place has changed so considerably that merely offering an excellent product is not enough, and neither is the right price point. So, what should we be doing, you may ask? And what are the trends to look out for in 2019? My predictions are: 1. Memberships and loyalty programmes 2. Combination of wellness and beauty 3. Kids wellness 4. Aesthetics 5. Personalised electronic after care advice 6. Online and more online 7. Virtual reality / gadgets 8. Quality of air 9. Recycling / eco friendly 10. Sound

If implemented efficiently and correctly, the above 10 points could significantly change your business going forward. Granted, some of the points we have heard of before, but ask yourself if you have implemented them correctly in terms of staff training and a well-focused plan with a clear mission and vision. Let’s look into each point a little more closely and I will provide tips on what to do.

Memberships A membership scheme will work if you have a driver, such as a dedicated membership consultant. Such a scheme can generate double the revenue that online gift vouchers can, but it needs to be done correctly and followed through. A membership scheme is all about taking someone and making them your member. This means total VIP treatment – from communication methods, to welcome, to check out, and attention to detail. It also means cash upfront as it creates a loyal client who has the ability to tell at least another five friends about your spa, thus creating a very powerful network. People want (and need) to feel special, >

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Spa Focus

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so hurry up and implement a membership programme. Keep it simple and most importantly, keep in touch.

Wellness and beauty combo Beauty and wellness are joined at the hip, well, at every joint actually. If a person is not well, they can’t be beautiful or focus on being beautiful. Think carefully about what a massage does for a person. Does it make them beautiful? Or does it make them feel better? The answer is clear and waiting for you to take action. All of the services we offer in our so-called beauty environment primarily make a person feel better and that is called wellness. So, integrate the two at every opportunity and watch your business grow.

Kids wellness

Aesthetics

The children of today are far more focused on wellbeing than ever before. Don’t neglect this rapidly rising market as they are getting younger and younger; they want to look after themselves and to find a sense of release and relaxation. Children of today experience stress at levels that adults have no idea of and weren’t exposed to when they were children themselves. Look at ways to include this market into your business, be it one day per week, or even one day per month to start with. Treat these young people as you would adults and watch your clientele grow. Some spas have introduced either an area for kids, or specific times at which kids may use the facilities to meet this rising demand.

This is definitely a force to be reckoned with. If you are not offering some form of aesthetics in your spa / salon, it is time to rethink your strategy fast. Aesthetics is fast becoming the norm in today’s salon / spa treatment offering, however there is so much out there that you need to take special care to select reputable brands that can align with your specific spa / salon brand and philosophy. Aesthetics can either be introduced gently with entry level treatments such as skin peels, or with advanced, semiinvasive services like plasma energy treatments.

Personalisation This is going to apply in every shape and form when it comes to the client. Their consultation form will require personalisation, while their after care advice and treatment plan recommendation will be a key element of their financial planning. Beauty and wellness used to be considered luxuries, now are they are necessities and complete part and parcel of wellbeing. The more personal you get with your client, the longer you retain them and the faster your business grows.

online @ probeauty.co.za


Online Going online with regards to everything you do and offer is a no brainer. Get your bookings online, get your gift vouchers online, get your feedback system online, get your retail online. The more you do online, the quicker the turnover grows and the quicker word of mouth travels about your business. Please don’t think that the beauty or spa business is only about personal, upfront and hands on interaction. It is to a degree but what happens before and after that interaction will determine whether you retain that client, or whether they will move on to where their tech needs are met.

Virtual reality / gadgets Watch out world, gadgets to enhance the massage service are on the horizon, so find them and invest fast. These small, add on items will enhance the experience in a way your client has never experienced before. It will be something new for clients and exciting for them to recommend to their friends. Virtual reality or eye massage gadgets, or whatever other gadget you decide suits your set up best, will become the talk of the town, creating interest to open the window for endless opportunities.

Quality of air The quality of the oxygen and air that we breathe in is fast becoming a concern to the consumer of today. Spas can jump onto this initiative by starting with the type of plants they choose to have at the premises. There is a large range of air purifying plants available to put in store so do this and tell clients about the benefits of such plants. Any equipment that enhances the quality of the air that circulates in your spa is a good buy as this is a real treatment enhancer and to some degree, with no extra charge. Watch out though, as a growing trend overseas is to offer treatments in

Spa Focus

25 a purified air pod at a surcharge due to the quality of air in which the treatment is performed.

Recycling / eco-friendly There can be no doubt in your mind that recycling and ecofriendly are fast becoming another non-negotiable for spa guests. Questions from clients about recycled packaging and eco-friendly ingredients have become a daily occurrence. So, get in there and either hook up with your brand partner on their initiative or start your own, but do something and show you care with the specific ways you contribute towards the preservation and enhancement of the planet.

Sound I have spoken about the power of smell in previous issues of Professional Beauty and make no mistake, the sense of smell is the strongest and most memorable, so I hope your focus on smell in every aspect of your space is accounted for. Now, however, the trend is turning to sound. What type of sound makes a person calm and relaxed, reflective, sleepy and happy? Those are the sounds you are looking for but these need to be personalised for your clients. The spa sound movement will range from offering a few different music channels, to a complete personal selection of music prior to the client’s arrival. This ensures the client’s music selection is ready for treatment time with wireless and noise cancelling ear phones, which enhance the experience and triple the benefits of the treatments in the truest sense of the word, ‘wellbeing’. PB

Marisa Dimitriadis is founder and owner of The Spa Consultants. marisa@ thespaconsultants.co.za

online @ probeauty.co.za


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Cape Town

Conference & Buyers

Forum

Professional Beauty introduces a brand new interactive format for its annual Cape Town event – a Table Top Sales Forum and Networking Event – to run on Monday, 18 March 2019 at The River Club Golf & Conference Centre.

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he conference element of the Professional Beauty Cape Town Conference & Buyers Forum is focused on business based education. The event is a full day of talks mixed with access and interaction with some of the industry’s top suppliers. The number of places available to attendees is limited so

we advise that you book your place as soon as possible. Visitors to the event will be able to gain access to some great speakers talking on powerful subjects that will help them to improve their businesses. In addition, the event offers great opportunities to network with fellow salon owners and suppliers. It is a chance to share challenges, ideas and information

with like-minded industry professionals. The talks have been given accreditation by SAAHSP (The Professional Body for the Skin, Nails and Body Care Industry is South Africa) and therefore awarded CPD points which is a big plus for SAAHSP members. SAAHSP will also receive a discount on the price.

Conference Programme 09h30 Coffee and pastries on arrival with the exhibitors at the Table Top Forum 10h00 Welcome address to explain how it all works.

11h35 Retail, retail, retail – this is always a hot topic and we can help with some practical solutions

16h00 Of course your salon is perfect, but maybe, just maybe, not everywhere. Tips on what to look for and how to ensure your business is consistently at its best

12h15 Lunch 16h30 Meetings at the tables

10h15 How to keep your customers 10h25 Marketing – it’s not all about discounts 11h00 Coffee break and meet the exhibitors 11h15 Finance – keep control of your costs and cash flow

14h00 Yoga stretch / drumming (WAKE-UP!) 14h15 Meetings with exhibitors at the Table Top Sales Forum 15h00 Tea and coffee (served at the Table Top Sales Forum) 15h30 Understanding social media – it helps, but it cannot fix all your marketing problems

17h15 Delegates Focus Group: an opportunity to share ideas on improving the event, the Professional Beauty magazine, communication and Professional Beauty exhibitions. This is also a chance to raise any other issues that are of concern to delegates 18h00 Cocktails and canapés 19h30 Close

For more information about the Professional Beauty Cape Town Conference Buyers Forum and Conference and to book for the event, log onto www.probeauty.co.za

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Table Top Sales Forum Some 200 of the Western Cape’s top salon and spa owners have been invited to attend Professional Beauty’s new Cape Town Conference & Buyers Forum, which will see leading suppliers showcase their brands and services.

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he interactive and exclusive Table Top Sales Forum takes place on Monday, 18 March 2019 at The River Club Golf & Conference Centre in Observatory, alongside the Professional Beauty Conference. At the time of going to press, the following brands had confirmed participation.

APS American Piercing Systems APS will demonstrate to salon owners how offering a STUDEX® ear piercing service can increase both income and foot traffic into their business. The systems are very easy to use, extremely hygienic and can be used for belly and nose piercing, as well as for ear piercing. APS looks forward to meeting with both new and existing customers.

AMSco (PTY) LTD AMSco is the Sole African agent for the RefectoCil brand, a market leader represented in over 65 countries. Their Lash and Brow treatments are recognised internationally. AMSco will demonstrate the use of the RefectoCil brand and Lash and Brow treatments.

Best Lasers / Best Enterprise

Nucarro

The sole Sub-Saharan Africa distributors of Alma Lasers & FormaTK International (beauty/ aesthetic and surgical devices), Best Lasers & Best Enterprise believe that quality is the best business plan. They offer training with certification; technical & marketing support; and ongoing sales support.

Nucarro is an advanced skincare range that has been scientifically formulated to be absorbed into the deeper layers of the skin to help fight the visible signs of ageing and to even out skin tone.

Ebony Braids Ebony Braids & Hair Pieces was started in 1994, specialising in hair products for the ethnic market. They were the first to bring out the new, popular Bongo & Natural Dread.

Mia Secret Professional Nail System Mia Secret Professional Nail System launched in South Africa on 1 September 2017. The brand owners are industry professionals with an amazing track record of success in the nail industry. Mia Secret is an avant-garde professional nail system that is distributed in over 60 countries around the world. We are innovative, advanced and stateof-the-art trendsetters and we recommend Mia Secret to any nail enthusiasts or professionals who are looking for top of the range products and techniques to put them ahead of the rest.

Pure Perfection Pure Perfection is the sister company of Ebony Braids & Hair Pieces. They specialise in 100% Remy Human Hair Products and pride themselves on their superior quality.

Spa & Salon Solutions Spa & Salon Solutions will showcase the Autumn Colours collection from Jessica Cosmetics Nail Care Treatments, and the latest products from South African manicure & pedicure range, Milk Solutions.

The Spa Consultants The Spa Consultants will showcase two of their leading professional care brands that are delivering results to business owners, therapists and consumers. Show visitors are invited to discover a whole new era of opportunities they never thought their business had. Visit the interactive demo area for some innovative new facial treatment techniques and groundbreaking aesthetic technology. PB

Sponsored by:

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African Skin

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Should you choose

skincare based on your skin tone? Dr Portia Gumede, aesthetic doctor and owner of Dr P Lifestyle Aesthetic Clinic in Hyde Park, explains skin tone and how it affects the skincare products and treatments we choose for our clients.

online @ probeauty.co.za

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hoosing skincare is not always as simple as 1-2-3. When advising clients on skincare and suitable treatments there’s one important aspect that is often left out – skin tone. The best way to explain skin tone is by using the Fitzpatrick Phototype Scale. This numerical scale is used to classify skin colour as a way to determine the response of our skin to UV light and understand human pigmentation. Phototype I to II burns easily and rarely tans – typically associated with fairskinned individuals with either blonde or red hair. Phototype III is right in the middle and will often get a mild sunburn but tans uniformly. Phototype IV burns minimally and tans easily, while Phototype V to VI, the darkest of skin tones, will rarely or never burn. Using the Fitzpatrick Scale can seem very technical but it’s an accurate way for doctors and aesthetic therapists to correctly classify a patient’s skin tone. After we’ve done this, we are able to correctly advise patients on how to protect and treat their skin when concerns pop up. While skin type in terms of normal, dry, combination and oily are still the main determining factors when choosing skincare, skin tone should also be considered when working with patients that fall within the IV to VI Phototype range. Let’s take a look at how certain concerns affect darker skin tones:

Breakouts Breakouts are subdivided into two main categories, comedones and inflammatory acne. Comedones are those pesky blackheads and whiteheads that clog up pores and are caused by a buildup of dead skin and oil. Inflammatory acne, on the other hand, is caused by overactive oil glands and bacteria. It can be sensitive to touch, inflamed and form a pustule if left untreated. Correctly extracting and treating breakouts in darker skin tones is extremely important as the wrong extraction methods and treatment can cause postinflammatory pigmentation in Phototypes IV to VI. Some studies have shown that darker complexions can produce more sebum, which increases the likeliness of breakouts. Fortunately, today we are able to successfully treat breakouts in darker skin tones using chemical resurfacing treatments and blue light therapy. With chemical peels, we use a combination of acids that are safe to use on darker skin tones and help to gently unclog pores, exfoliate and calm inflammation. Blue light therapy can further help calm inflammation and kill acnecausing bacteria. At home skincare products that are safe to use are retinol, which can increase healthy cell turnover, and salicylic acid to help calm inflammation.

Pigmentation Post-inflammatory pigmentation is what brings many patients through my doors and it’s more often than not caused by acne. Acne lesions


cause unhealthy inflammation in the skin that triggers an overproduction of melanin as part of the healing process. People with darker skin tones already have very active melanocytes (the cells that produce melanin) and irritation can cause them to go into overdrive and cause hyperpigmentation. These marks may fade but often they take up permanent residence as a reminder of the breakout that happened. In the past, we had very few treatment options available to these patients and as a result, they used products that were not suited to their skin’s phototype. This nearly always resulted in permanent bleaching and damage to their skin tone. Thankfully, today we have safer options available to successfully treat pigmentation and even scarring. Microneedling is not only safe but effective to use on all skin tones as a pigmentation treatment option. The tiny needles punch through the skin to induce healthy inflammation, rejuvenate the skin and breakup the pigmented cells. A series of microneedling treatments is recommended for the best results. For home care it’s important to look for skincare that contains brightening and exfoliating ingredients. Look out for liquorice extract, Vitamin C and niacinamide.

Sun protection There’s this myth that’s been making the rounds for years that people with darker complexions don’t need sun protection. While the Fitzpatrick Scale correctly notes that Phototypes IV to VI minimally or rarely burns, this doesn’t mean that these skin types don’t get sun damaged. While these skin tones are more resilient to the sun’s UV rays, they too have their limits. If you struggle with uneven skin tone and hyperpigmentation, then sun protection is especially non-negotiable. The UV rays can cause melanocytes to go into overdrive and exacerbate existing pigmentation and make it harder

to treat. Sun damage can also accelerate the ageing process Finding the right SPF cream can be tricky no matter what your skin type is, but skin tone can make it even trickier than usual. Physical sunscreens contain titanium and zinc oxide that sit on the skin and physically deflect UV rays; they’re also the culprits that make darker skin tones look deathly pale. Rather opt for a broad-spectrum SPF that combines both physical and chemical sunscreen and won’t make you look like a ghost. But whatever you do, never skip the sunscreen.

of KwaZulu-Natal in 2002. She subsequently trained at the renowned American Academy of Aesthetic Medicine and at the Oculo-Facial Aesthetic Academy in London. In addition to starting her own aesthetic clinic, Dr P, as she is fondly referred to, serves as a national trainer for Galderma. PB

Good formulations At the most basic level, all skin types are the same – we all require a well formulated cleanser, serum, moisturiser and sunscreen. But more often than not, big brands and marketing campaigns can prey on our uniqueness and differences, making us shell out unnecessary money for products that are not much different from those that are formulated for lighter skin tones. When you want to treat tricky skin concerns like acne and pigmentation, start by choosing a doctor that understands your skin’s needs and has experience in making the small adjustments that are required when dealing with darker skin tones. Dr Portia Gumede obtained her medical degree from the University

online @ probeauty.co.za

African Skin

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African Skin

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Honing in on

colour Given that the majority of South Africa’s population is black, salons and spa should be offering skincare treatments and products that are suitable for African skin in order to cater for this vast demographic. Brightening effect A common concern of clients with African skin is that of hyperpigmentation. DermaFix MelanoDerm is a hydroquinonefree corrective facial moisturiser that effectively works to reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation and promotes a brighter, more even skin tone, whilst maintaining skin integrity. For body hyperpigmentation concerns, the new DermaFix UltraBright is a fast-acting skin brightener recommended for overall skin lightening, including dark patches found on hands, elbows, underarms and knees. Within DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care’s MD Prescriptives range, MD Prescriptives Mandelic Cleanser and Mandelic Toner, with the inclusion of MD Prescriptives

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SkinLite, are recommended for daily use in conjunction with MD Prescriptives SPF 50 for High UVA /UVB protection. MD Prescriptives Vitamin A Propionate may be included at night, offering the benefits of a retinoid without the negative side effects typically seen with retinol-based products. A new launch in early 2019 is the DermaFix Brightening Wipes, offering a high potency additive for skin brightening and retexturising benefits. This unique delivery systems offers a combination of enzyme activated alpha arbutin, kojic acid and Vitamin C, alongside other botanicals to help brighten the skin.

Light years away The dr. brandt light years away range is formulated with Active Marine C Complex, a powerful blend of marine extracts and highly stable vitamin C, fortified with anti-ageing properties and potent botanicals. This system targets and controls hyperpigmentation to whiten, lighten and brighten skin, restoring a youthful, luminous complexion. Active Marine Extracts, working

in synergy with highly stable Vitamin C, promote a lighter and more uniform complexion by regulating the skin pigmentation cascade (melanogenesis). The dr. brandt light years away formulation neutralises free radicals to prevent oxidative damage, thus inhibiting melanin production and controlling melanin transfer. Consequently, dark spots and other discolourations fade; dark spots are prevented from surfacing; skin tone is evened and the complexion brightened; and skin is nourished for a more healthy, youthful look and feel.

Food for the eyes Skin Nutrition Cell-CPR Eye Reconditioning Serum is a triple action, total wellness treatment for the eyes. It utilises peptides, growth factors, hyaluronic acid and


other bioactive complexes, all intelligently and optimally carried via patent pending delivery and multiencapsulation technologies. This serum helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, prevents sagging, reduces puffiness and dark circles, creates a smoother skin surface and resuscitates the eyes leaving them looking brighter, feeling fresher and restoring that youthful glow. A key ingredient is sH-Oligopeptide-1, an Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF) made in the USA, which is a powerful protein that binds to cell receptors and activates and accelerates cellular

proliferation. It also accelerates and promotes skin healing, increases the rate of skin renewal, and slows down skin thinning, which occurs as we age.

Vitamin A The experts at Environ point out that Vitamin A deficiency can lead to skin abnormalities such as pigmentation, ageing and breakout, which is why Vitamin A is the cornerstone ingredient in the Environ skincare philosophy. Environ believes that South Africans need good daily doses of Vitamin A as their levels of Vitamin A are depleted by daily sun exposure. Pigmentation can be treated with Environ’s Ionzyme C-Quence Range, as it is a premium Environ Vitamin Step-Up System which helps to deliver this essential nutrient daily to the skin. Furthermore, Evenescence Clarifying Lotion (used in addition

to the Ionzyme Range) with key ingredients Vitamin B3 and SepiWhite MSH to inhibit melanotropin, controls tyrosinase activity, melanin formation and melanosome transfer. Evenscence C Boost (used in addition to the Ionzyme Range), with the key ingredient ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, is a stabilised oil soluble form of Vitamin C, which has many functions including skin lightening and inhibiting lipid peroxidation. >

online @ probeauty.co.za

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Powerful peptide

Specially designed for combination skin that lacks moisture, the Skinovage Babancing Bio-Cellulose Mask is derived from fermented coconut water, which is intensely moisturising. It also contains zinc to help combat the bacteria that cause spots. The fine, flexible natural bio-cellulose fibers mould themselves perfectly to any facial shape.

Key hydration

There are a number of products within Babor’s Skinovage Balancing range, which features the EpigenTech Power Peptide to help prevent epigenetic ageing by prolonging the cells’ ability to transfer the information that is responsible for maintaining youthful skin, suited to treating African skin, such as the Balancing Serum. In addition to Sebucon, this intense-action serum contains biopolymers and pullulan, which regulate moisture levels in the skin and create a long-term moisture reservoir. Natural moisturising factors (NMFs) supply moisture and bind it in the skin – for a fresher, more balanced complexion with less shine. Panthenol is an additional active ingredient. Babor’s Skinovage Balancing Cream is a light, smoothtextured cream with rice starch that visibly mattifies the complexion. The Sebucon complex regulates combination skin by reducing sebum flow in oily areas of the skin and increasing it in dry patches. Additional active ingredients include biopolymers, pullulan, Vitamin E, sweet almond oil and allantoin.

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The Hydra Serum Intensely Hydrating Concentrate contains watercress extract to strengthen the ability of cells to retain water in tissues as storage. Hyaluronic acid stores water in cells and has the ability to harvest water in tissues. Pier Augé’s Hydrating Treatment Fondamental is targeted at the 30- to 60-years age group, as well anyone suffering from dehydrated skin. Active ingredients are pomegranate extract to stimulate the function of aquaporins (water channels) and restore cells’ natural water distribution. Beech buds extract regenerates and stimulates cellular metabolism. By utilising bio-mimicry, this product reproduces the phospholipidic membrane structure of the skin and strengthens its natural skin barrier to provide long lasting hydration.

Even tone

The Intense Hydrating Program of Pier Augé is ideal for the needs of African skin, packed with anti-ageing properties without being rich in oil. For stressed skin, the Regenerating Smoothing Treatment not only hydrates the skin, but strengthens its resistance to pollution and stress aggressions. Active ingredients include a hyperprotein enriched firming complex, as well as the hydrating and anti-stress complex, which contains hyaluronic acid as well as a powerful moisturiser combined with calming and repairing Vitamin B5. Borage oil regenerates the skin, while cereal oil (corn, sunflower and soy) softens and protects.

From QMS Medicosmetics, the SkinTone Light Serum is an advanced formulation designed to even skin tone, improve elasticity and reduce fine lines. This innovative serum is based on a multifunctional active ingredient complex, which provides targeted action against dark spots and helps prevent the further development of pigmentation. Essential for preventing further pigmentation is effective sun protection. The QMS Cellular Sun Protection SPF 50 is a lightweight formulation with balanced UVA / UVB protection and a DNA-Repair Complex


that provides protection against sunburn and premature lightinduced skin ageing. The DNA of the skin cells are protected and the skin’s DNA repair mechanisms are activated. This product offers extremely high sun protection, with a balanced UVA / UVB protection and an innovative DNA-repair complex to fight against premature skin ageing.

Combo treatment Jacqui Faucitt, CEO of RégimA points out that although African skin has a very compact and resilient dermis, most types of inflammatory reaction quickly result in darkened areas, with some leading to abnormal scarring and keloid formation. “When choosing in-salon treatments, as well as home care, this must be a major consideration, so aggressive treatments are avoided,” says Faucitt. “Hyperpigmentation is a stubborn, distressing condition affecting so many people, particularly African and Asian skins. Therefore, prevention and treatment of pigmentation, scarring, including acne, any inflammatory condition are at the top of the list for African skins.” She believes that the most successful, newer combo in-salon treatment from RégimA is the ‘Double Whammy’. “This addresses all the potential problems that African skins experience. The thicker, oilier, congested skins

thrive on the high percentage beta hydroxy acid, that unblock the pores. The powerful, yet safe, six alpha hydroxy acids in the treatment successfully eliminate pigmentation and acne and help control hormones within the skin, while greatly improving all types of scarring, quickly repairing, lightening, brightening, smoothing and clarifying.

The ‘Double Whammy’ consists of RégimA’s The Zone Power Peel 50 (containing six natural alphahydroxy acids) to rectify pigmentation, combined with 30% beta hydroxyl, 12% lactic acid, healing plants and normalising hormones to unblock pores. This does not self-neutralise like most beta peels. RégimA’s The Zone Pigment Perfector can be used morning and evening under day and night products. It is safe even for the upper eyelids to help treat pigmentation. This anti-pigmentation treatment draws on the individual strengths of multiple skin lightening actives. With ‘state of the art’ technology, lumiskin, the latest in proprietary skin-lightening actives, works in synergy, providing a cumulative effect with a visible and significant decrease in pigmentation. Formulated with sophora root extract and featuring the enhanced lightening action of black tea extract and the latest in stabilised Vitamin C technology, Pigment Perfector combines the most cutting-edge actives for unparalleled skin lightening power. Added to this, kiwi fruit extract has been found to be particularly beneficial for under-eye dark circles. Because African skin is more prone to keloid scarring, it is important that a product provides anti-glycation to prevent hardening of elastin and collagen fibres. This is an added benefit of black tea extract. PB

online @ probeauty.co.za

African Skin

33


Hair News

34

Crowning GLORY

Tress-a-licious news from the hair front.

SA hair stylist wins L’Oréal Colour Trophy

Stacy Fagan of HAIR @ Stacy & Co in Greenside, Johannesburg, has won the Best in South Africa section of the L’Oréal Colour Trophy 2018. As part of her prize, Fagan will travel to Paris in March 2019 to compete in the Global Colour Trophy Grand Finale, where she

online @ probeauty.co.za

will have to replicate exactly the same style, colour and cut as on her photo entry submission, on the same model (see pic below). Says Fagan: “Winning this award has been biggest accomplishment of my hair career thus far. I feel extremely honoured, overjoyed, ecstatic and grateful to have created the ‘look’ that appealed to the judges. In my heart I always knew I was going to win the trophy, I just didn’t know when. I’ve been entering competitions for many years although this was my first international one.” She also placed 2nd in the Men’s Image Award. “I took a chance and entered both categories as I really enjoy men’s styling and creating the looks that the fashion leaders of the world are presenting to the hair industry.” To win the trophy, Fagan had to exactly replicate the cut and colour in her photographic entry during a live event held on Sunday, 28 October at Kyalami Theatre on the Track, in the presence of the judging panel, which included Canadian L’Oréal Ambassador, Guylaine Martel. There were 11 other finalists in the competition. “My model’s hair was quite a dark red brown shade when I started her colour change,”

explains Fagan. “I slowly prelightened, lifted and removed the artificial pigment with L’Oreal’s amazing Effasor product. Over a two-week period, I still had to pre-lighten and prep some areas in the hair to create a clean foundation. Once I was happy, I then started with my Colour Melt technique, using L’Oreal’s Majirel Carmiline 6.66 + 20vol on the roots, LOóreal’s new Colourful range on the mid-lengths (i.e. Sunset Coral 45g + 45g Clear), and on the ends, Sunset Coral 10g + 80g Clear.” Fagan had done the Colour Melt course a month prior with Shelene Shaer at L’Oréal and believes hair stylists should always be educating themselves, regardless of their age and regardless of what they think they know. “It’s too risky to try and wing it in this day and age with so much technology and hands-on courses available to us online. In my salon I make it compulsory for my staff and I to attend at least four education courses per year. It’s also great to meet other hairstylists at these courses and learn their tips and tricks. “Furthermore, as an employer and busy stylist, I don’t get the time to teach my staff and I also don’t know everything there is to know about hair. It’s refreshing to let someone else share their knowledge. We lose clients when we don’t keep up with current and upcoming trends and techniques,” concludes Fagan. PB


Browsing the

showroom

Choosing the right furniture and equipment for your salon, spa or medical aesthetics practice requires careful planning and consideration. Joanna Sterkowicz provides some tips on how to go about the process.

W

Whether you are looking for treatment beds, massage beds, facial chairs, therapist stools, storage units, hot cabinets, trolleys, steamers, magnifying lamps or any other salon furniture and equipment, it is always advisable to purchase from a reputable supplier with an established track record. Authorised distributors will not only have the latest items on the market in their catalogues, but will also offer a warranty and guarantee. This will ensure that the furniture or equipment you have purchased is of the required standard and will meet the intended use very effectively. Outfitting a salon or spa with the appropriate furniture and equipment

will require a significant investment but it’s important that you choose only high quality items. Remember the old adage – ‘You get what you pay for’ – so make sure you choose authentic brands or it may cost you in the long run. Another significant factor is that the furniture / equipment you purchase must be durable as it will be in constant daily use and will therefore need to last a long time. Whatever furniture you select should be comfortable and easy to adjust. Space is also an important consideration, as any new furniture must be able to fit into the space you have available. If your salon or spa treatment rooms are small, you might want to consider furniture that folds up. The beauty industry is a visual

industry which is why the interior design of your business is important as it strongly impacts on the eye of the beholder (i.e. your clients). For this reason it’s prudent to choose furniture that fits in with the décor and colour scheme of your salon. Delivery times need to be factored into the equation, so always buy well in advance and secure the required commitment from your supplier to deliver the unit/s on time.

Here’s a look at some of the latest high quality items on offer from top suppliers

10 in 1 Beauty Treatment Unit This unit comes with the following: Steamer; Maglamp; Hot Cabinet; Vacuum Suction; Spray; High Frequency; Galvanic; Frimator Brush; Woodslamp; and Utility Bowls. Marica Hair & Beauty Salon Specialists

Hot Bead Sterilizer The Hot Bead Sterilizer is designed for sterilization at medical level for all metal implements. This unit is vital in maintaining proper hygiene and sterilization and avoiding any form of nail, foot and skin fungus. Marica Hair & Beauty Salon Specialists

UV Sterilizer

This unit is designed to sterilize all items within a salon, from cuticle nippers to foot files and buffing blocks. Marica Hair & Beauty Salon Specialists

online @ probeauty.co.za

Furniture & Equipment

35


Furniture & Equipment

36 Wooden Treatment Bed This bed is well worth the investment, being thicker, wider and more durable than others and with a solid structure, thereby accommodating all clients. Marica Hair & Beauty Salon Specialists

The head and foot rest can be adjusted by means of a lever system. Removable arms ensure easy access to the bed, which has a facial breathing hole and a cushion. The bed is upholstered in white, high resistant material and is very easy to clean. Smart Buy Depilève

Capri Pedi Spa

Luxury Trolley

Electronic 4 Motor Bed

The Depilève Manicure Waxing Trolley is made of resistant white PVC, with wheels. It includes a folding bin, several shelves and drawers to place all the necessary products for the epilation or paraffin services. There is an optional tray for the Luxe Paraffin Warmer. Dimensions: 40 x 36.5 x 88cm. Smart Buy Depilève The fully Electronic 4 Motor Bed basically does everything except for the treatment. This slightly wider and longer bed lifts at all angles, allowing for every treatment within a salon or spa. It is only available in white. Marica Hair & Beauty Salon Specialists

3 Body Couch This bed has a very stable metal structure, which includes two drawers and lower rack for towels and electric blankets.

online @ probeauty.co.za

The latest technical innovations make the Capri Pedi Spa unique. These features coexist in the perfect harmony of modern lines and elegant forms, to create a chair that enriches each kind of space with charm. It is ideal for spa manicure and pedicure treatments, foot hydro massages, aesthetic manicures, aesthetic pedicures, paraffin treatments, scrubs and foot massages. The Spa Warehouse

Florence

Pedicure Trolley This trolley has a white base with ultra-resistant plastic rollers in which to safely place the paraffin warmer and offer a pedicure service in any part of the salon. (Warmer not included). Size: 60 x 40cm. Smart Buy Depilève

With its innovative design, high quality finishes and exceptional raw materials, the Florence model is designed to meet all the various needs of modern spas and wellness centres by combining practicality, comfort and work space optimisation. The standard unit comes equipped with three electric motors for adjusting the height, the tilt of the backrest and the seat. The wooden structure’s sliding panels house a convenient container that’s ideal for storing the practitioner’s work instruments. The Spa Warehouse


Lemi 4

Grace Massage Bed This wooden framed bed is finished in brown PVC leather. Its mass weight is 150kg. Dimensions: 180x76x64cm Rapple Products

Fusion Beauty Chair

Thanks to the all-electrical adjustment of all its positions, the Lemi 4 spa couch-bed is extremely versatile and easy to use. It comes complete with 4 electric actuators, which allow the operator to autonomously select the most suitable working height and position. The electronic control unit, custom designed by Lemi Group, includes a useful automatic reset control which allows the bed to be brought back to its original position. The Spa Warehouse

Cascade Beauty Trolley The white Cascade Beauty Trolley features three shelves and one drawer. It is constructed with a chrome frame and comes in white only. Rapple Products

This affordable high quality chair can swivel around and comes standard with hydraulic pumps to adjust chair height. It can be ordered with or without the foot rest and comes standard in chrome or stainless steel. Rapple Products

Rubi White Manicure Table with drawer

Skin Analyser

Functions of the Skin Analyser include: cross positioning; accurate analysis; and before & after comparison. This device, which connects to your computer, can accurately detect both superficial and deeper skin problems, such as skin spots quantity and density; pore size quality and density; skin roughness, as well as deep skin pigmentation; and acne moisture levels. Logica Beauty Supplies

Sknpen

Constructed from MDF wood, this manicure table comes with two drawers and is finished in white oil paint. Rapple Products

Sknlogic’s Sknpen is an advanced medical grade automated fractional microneedling device offering a powerful German Motor and adjustable needle length. Logica Beauty Supplies

online @ probeauty.co.za

Furniture & Equipment

37


Product Focus – Skincare with Antioxidants

38

Waging war against

free radicals Antioxidants are substances that protect the skin by curtailing the production of free radicals, which can damage skin cells. Thus, antioxidants in skincare products are used to help improve the skin’s health and appearance, while simultaneously reducing the signs of ageing.

Precious serum Pier Augé’s ADN Precieux Youth Firming Serum contains hp DNA, a powerful antioxidant that traps free radicals, fights against skin ageing and encourages tissue renewal. Malachite extract promotes antioxidant and detoxifying properties, along with Smithsonite extract and Rhodocrosite extract. Vitamins C and E act as powerful antioxidants.

021 851 4375

Powerful peptide Skinovage Vitalizing from Babor is formulated with the EpigenTech Power Peptide, which helps to prevent epigenetic ageing by prolonging the cells’ ability to transfer the information that is responsible for maintaining youthful skin. Exhausted skin is revitalised and regeneration is prompted by cell renewal processes.

011 467 0110

Essential ingredient

Vital Vitamin C

Antioxidants are found in many Environ products because of their essential role in skin health and protection. C-Quence Crème contains a variety of powerful antioxidants (e.g. green tea, lutein and lycopene) to help to combat free radical damage and keep the skin hydrated. Environ’s Antioxidant Gel is a perfect antipollution system that protects the skin.

Well known for its antioxidant benefits, Vitamin C is found DermaFix Ferulic + C + E, which contains 15 % L-ascorbic acid, 1% Alpha Tocopherol, and 0.5% Ferulic acid offering up to 72 hours of antioxidant protection against harmful free-radical attack. This product also offers skin brightening benefits, whilst promoting the production of collagen and elastin.

011 262 0264

011 704 0555

online @ probeauty.co.za


Product Focus – Skincare with Antioxidants

39

Gorgeous grapes

Flawless finish From SIX Sensational Skincare, the Flawless Cleansing Oil is enriched with Vitamin E and coconut to effectively remove make-up, sunblock, sweat and dirt, with antioxidant and antifree radical properties. Other active ingredients include lavender and orange peel oil to soften the skin, combined with anti-bacterial properties.

The discovery that oligomeric proanthocyanidins (the antioxidants found in grape derivatives) are 50 times the strength of Vitamin E and 20 times the strength of Vitamin C with regards to their levels of antioxidants, was an inspiration to use these gems from nature as the foundation of South Africa’s TheraVine skincare range.

021 886 6623

011 312 7840

Pomegranate to the rescue RégimA Laser Azu Repair is formulated with pomegranate seed oil, which has strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It provides therapeutic nutrition, as topically it repairs and helps rebuild collagen, while simultaneously slowing the development of an enzyme, hyaluronidase, which actively destroys collagen.

011 615 2869

Intensive repair The Team Dr Joseph Ultra Intense Hyaluronic Age Repair Cream is targeted at demanding and mature facial skin, with moisture-providing hyaluronic acid, super antioxidants and a unique complex of active ingredients. These ensure a perfectly fresh and well-cared look that will make the skin glow again, with a youthful, taut look.

0860 018 022 online @ probeauty.co.za


Medical Aesthetics

40

Rejuvenating the future As we embark on the New Year, Karen Ellithorne looks at the medical aesthetics trends that are likely to take centre stage in 2019.

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n the skin rejuvenation front, botulinum toxin continues to be popular to prevent the formation of fine lines and wrinkles as results appear instantaneously and can help shave years off a client’s face. However, another use for botulinum toxin has surfaced in the form of micro botox or baby botox. This procedure is expected to grow in popularity as it can assist in smoothing the skin’s texture, whilst decreasing pore size and sebatious secretions.

Microneedling

PRP The trend of relying on our own bodies to enhance anti-ageing skincare results through the release of growth factors or Platlet Rich Plasma (PRP) for rejuvenation continues in 2019. PRP works by using a client’s own cells to naturally reverse the signs of ageing through building new collagen and cell growth

online @ probeauty.co.za

Microneedling with a collagen induction pen still continues to feature very prominently in aesthetic clinics in South Africa when it comes to facial rejuvenation. This is due to the results and the broad spectrum of indication that these devices can successfully and safely treat.

Threads Threads are on the rise, evolving and here to stay. Much success has been seen with the use of threads for lifting the facial contours, breasts, arms, knees and double chins. A thread lift combined with other treatment modalities, namely dermal fillers, botulinum toxin and lypolytic solutions, can produce immediate life-changing results that improve over time due to the collage stimulation of the threads.


41

We have all been well aware for some time know that male cosmetic procedures are steadily on the rise. According to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons (ASAPS) they have had a 28% growth since 2000 and it is not anticipated that this growth will curb anytime soon. Men are having more surgical treatments like rhinoplasty, eyelid surgery, male breast reduction, liposuctions and facelifts. However, non-invasive procedures like injectables, threads and lasers are also popular.

Medical Aesthetics

Male procedures

Vaginal rejuvenation Vaginal rejuvenation is still high in the popularity stakes as more and more people become aware of it. This laser treatment is very useful to address changes in vaginal health caused by childbirth and menopause. It can also be used to alleviate some of the side effects in women who have had a hysterectomy or chemotherapy. Depending on which laser technique was employed by the

medical practitioner, vaginal rejuvenation has a post treatment satisfaction rating that is higher than 90%. This treatment has prevented many woman going under the knife, with immediate results and very little down time. However, vaginal rejuvenation has recently come under the spotlight with the US FDA issuing warnings against ‘inappropriate marketing’ of some brands. >


Medical Aesthetics

42 Dr Cobus van Niekerk – AAMSSA (Aesthetic and AntiAging Medicine Society of South Africa) President, remarks: “New treatments come onto the market at an alarming rate and we have to be cognisant using treatments that apply evidence based medicine. It has come to our attention that people still practice outside their scope of practice and in this instance, with vaginal rejuvenation treatments. “It is imperative that we stay inside our scope of practice, and AAMSSA does not advocate these machines to be used by anyone other than a doctor or gynaecologist. The FDA has in July also sent out a warning that these devices can cause long-term side-effects and/or complications and discourages their use by clinicians purely from an aesthetic point of view.” However, even though this statement has been put out into the industry. It is important to note that there are many patients who have experienced this treatment and have had highly satisfactory results. Internationally, this area of treatment is predicted to have the highest area of growth and evolution in the next few years. Patient awareness of this procedure is an area that needs to be focused on more. This will ensure that the evolution of the equipment can make it more of a highly profitable procedure and therefore a good return on investment for the doctor’s practice.

very important when it comes to practice insurance, especially if someone is operating out of their scope of practice and a client is injured. Insurance companies will not cover your practice in such an instance. In 2019 I am hopeful of seeing the industry working better together to clearly define which procedure can be performed by who in a practice and then determine a safe, efficient way forward to regulate it.

Beautification

Regulation The aesthetic industry in South Africa is made up of a number of players – medical doctors, dentists, aesthetic therapists, nurses, receptionists and practice managers. It is very important that we work together as an industry in 2019 and that we all value our area of expertise and remember to operate within our scope of practice, as Dr Van Niekerk points out above. This is

online @ probeauty.co.za

Skincare is a topic that the industry will never get bored with. However, with the recent rise of the ‘no make-up trend’, we are are all learning that the best foundation you can wear is your healthy skin.

So, what does this mean for the aesthetic clinic? Patients are doing their own research on active ingredients and hoping to find high quality skincare ranges that meet their own unique needs. It is important to educate your customers on the products that you provide, recommending and creating an area of trust.

Customisation On the back of this ‘no make-up trend’ and consumers’ growing knowledge of active ingredients, many skincare ranges in Europe are moving away from the ‘one product suits all’ strategy and are customising the products in store with the appropriate active ingredients for each particular client. The innovative part of this concept is that the product is individualised according to the customers’ needs and can be adapted seasonally. Ultimately, whether we are talking about lip filler or breast augmentation, this year we will see lots of requests for more natural results that enhance the appearance rather than completely alter it. PB

A qualified aesthetician, Karen Ellithorne has been actively involved in the skincare industry since 1992, working as a lecturer and therapist, as well as successfully importing and distributing various products throughout South Africa. karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za


Product News

43

market IN THE

Our round-up of new products and treatments.

Age-defying eye cream

Cellular energy

The RapidEye Firming Wrinkle Smoother is created with Hexatein 6 Complex, a unique blend of ingredients exclusive to RapidEye that hydrate, nourish and invigorate the delicate skin around the eyes. The appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, tired, fatigued-looking skin, under eye puffiness and signs of premature ageing will be visibly reduced.

Mary Cohr has created a revolutionary device, the CatioVital Cellular Energy, for innovative treatment methods that deliver spectacular results in skin rejuvenation. CatioVital includes two complementary rejuvenating treatments: CatioVital Youth Treatment and CatioVital Lifting Treatment. Painless and affordable, the treatments deliver immediate results.

073 053 8830

072 241 4858

Sunny capsules

Correcting serum

Ideal for sun sensitive skins and for outdoor enthusiasts seeking more sun protection, Heliocare Ultra Capsules contain high levels of Fernblock, boosted by potent antioxidants, Vitamins C & E. The capsules can be used after a chemical peel or laser treatment, and should be taken in conjunction with a high protection topical sunscreen.

Lamelle Correctives Vita-C Lipid Serum is formulated with an advanced form of Vitamin C that is lipid soluble yet doesn’t produce any skin irritations. Enhanced with jojoba and ginger root extract, the product delivers antioxidant protection, reduces signs of ageing, results in smoother skin and provides healthy skin hydration with a glow.

011 545 9300

011 465 2264

>

online @ probeauty.co.za


Product News

44

De-puffer deluxe

Super supplement

Black Pearl’s AntiPuffiness Eye Roll-On features a unique blend of natural and essential nutrients that, together with the rolling applicator, gently stimulate and cool the delicate eye area to reduce puffiness and refresh the skin. Formulated with caffeine and mint extract, the product is dermatologist tested, ophthalmology tested and allergy tested.

Distributed by Equilibrium Foods, EnergyMel comprises a mix of herbs that will help with chronic fatigue. It can also improve stamina, resilience and expedite healing following illness. EnergyMel is manufactured by Zuf Globus Laboratories, a company that develops unique beehive products.

082 560 0262

082 556 5327

Ultra BB Cream DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care has launched a new shade within the Corrective Coverage range – the new DermaFix BB Cream Ultra. A lightweight, all-in-one formulation that evens out skin tone, illuminates a dull complexion and creates a flawless finish. Available for darker skin tones and ethnicities.

011 704 0555

Optimal enhancement Beauty Blur from Vita Liberata is an organic ‘do-it-all’ skin tone optimizer, which will enhance and perfect the complexion. It can be used alone or in conjunction with base as a primer that gives the most amazing coverage and glow. Beauty Blur is available in three colours – Latte Light, Latte, and Latte Dark.

021 465 8569

online @ probeauty.co.za


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It could never happen to you…right?

But what if it did? The client’s skin reacts to a treatment, perhaps you forgot to do a patch test…maybe? Or somehow damaged the cuticle during a nail treatment…. They get an infection and demand compensation. Whatever the reason, these things happen and somebody has to pay!

Will your insurance cover this? For full product indemnity insurance at an affordable price, contact Monique Joubert for a chat. E: monique@probeauty.co.za

Insurance online @ probeauty.co.za

Peace of mind for you and your clients


Issue 24

Jan/Feb 2019

Essential acronyms Shutterstock

SOPs & COPs

Coral reef

Pantone Colour of the Year

Dazzling display How to attract clients to your retail area


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Tel: 011 675

ESCO cel reetings salon owners and nail techs and welcome to 2019!CIDAn exciting read to ebrates Wo rld Congress in Stockholm start off the new year is our exclusive interview with Alisha Rimando, a world champion nail artist and the executive vice president and creative director of the edgy professional nail brand, Artistic Nail Design. Alisha’s back story of how she came to have a career in nails is fascinating, as she wasn’t motivated by a love of nails, but more by circumstance. It’s always a privilege for Professional Beauty & NailFile to gain access to leading international industry professionals like Alisha, so thanks to Twincare International for the opportunity. As you all know, retailing products in the salon is of paramount importance in ensuring you Essential acronyms generate a profit for your business. Having nail techs with retailing skills is obviously an Coral reef important factor in the equation, but so is attracting clients to your retail display. Our experts provide valuable tips on how to do this. Constantly improving the professionalism of the nail industry is imperative to its growth, which is why we have included in this issue of NailFile, an article on Codes of Practice (COPs) and Standard Operating Procedures (SOBs), both of which are vital to the running of your business. 6518, Fax:

086 588 0973,

Postal addres s: Postnet

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Issue 24

Jan/Feb 2019

SOPs & COP

Shutterstock

Welcome

48

Pantone

s

Colour of

the Year

Dazzling display How to attr act to your retaclients il area

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

What’s inside Nail File

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News

Style Savvy

Step by step

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Ask the Experts

Talkng to… Alisha Rimando

Product Hub

Stay in the know

Attracting clients to your retail area

53 The professional nail salon SOPs & COPs

Pantone Colour of the Year

Artistic Nail Design’s executive VP & creative director

59 Salon Focus

View from the top online @ probeauty.co.za

Marvellous mosaic

The latest launches

63 Top Tech Talk

Eloise Nom Chong


49 News

NEWS

Information at your fingertips O’Connor wins ‘Avant Garde’ Nail Design Challenge

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yrisha O’Connor of About U in Helderkruin has won the NailFile ‘Avant Garde’ Photographic Nail Design Challenge (sponsored by Crystal Nails). Says competition director, Sonette van Rensburg: “When the NailFile Photographic Nail Design Challenge was first introduced, we weren’t sure what the response would be. However, it has generated a phenomenal response to the exciting themes that were set, such as; ‘Pop Art’, ‘Glam Rock’, ‘Steam Punk’ and ‘Avant Garde’. We received entries from across the country from many passionate nail stylists who put so much effort into their work and designs. These competitions were introduced for nail stylists to put their creative

skills to the test and also to prepare them for the annual Professional Beauty Nail Design Competitions. This strategy has truly paid off as evidenced in the stunning entries we received. “Lyrisha O’Connor fully deserves to win the ‘Avant Garde’ NailFile Photographic Nail Design Challenge. Her work is absolutely outstanding and she really shared her enthusiasm and passion for nail design throughout every little detail, which she implemented in her work. Lyrisha, who has been in the industry for 20 years, really pushed her creative boundaries beyond the norm, depicting the theme throughout each and every nail, with innovative, fashion forward and out of the ordinary nail designs, just as this theme commanded.”

O’Connor adds: “I had so much fun creating my designs and fashion and nails are my absolute passion.” This year, the NailFile Photographic Nail Design Challenges will have even more exciting and unusual themes for nail stylists to explore Sponsored By: their creativity. (See page 52 for the theme for the next challenge.)

Bio Sculpture celebrates 30 years

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ate last year, Bio Sculpture hosted its international conference in Cape Town, attracting 80 delegates who represented 23 countries. The gathering coincided with Bio Sculpture’s 30th birthday. New Bio Sculpture products and brand concepts were introduced to delegates during the formal conference day, followed by a celebratory sunset boat cruise with exceptional views of Table Mountain. A spectacular picnic on a

wine estate themed in support of breast cancer awareness also formed part of the conference, as well as a private theatre event for the group with the screening of a custom-made movie documenting 30 years of Bio Sculpture. At the same time, celebration products

were launched, commending people who were instrumental in Bio Sculpture’s growth during its 30 years. A gala dinner ended the conference, with accolades in honour of Bio Sculpture’s treasured global family.

online @ probeauty.co.za


Business

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ask

the experts

QUESTION: How do I attract clients to my retail area? MAUREEN BRILL In an industry where you have to draw as much attention as possible to what you have available to sell, I suggest using short term retail displays because nail brands constantly release new products. At my salon I focus on point-of-purchase displays and brand activation to draw the customer’s attention. Holidays and seasons may pass very quickly but they still make a big difference in sales figures. So, we focus on doing monthly displays, such as ‘Movember’ for November. We also make use of branded ‘Fun Friday’ T-shirts for the staff to wear, like in October we had Cansa (Cancer Association of South Africa) awareness T-shirts made. Always ensure that your display matches the

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promotional material on the T-shirts by using the same logos and designs in your display area.

Close proximity You will lose the customer’s interest if she has to walk all the way to the display area, so our display is set up at the counter closest to the door. We make use of strong colours to attract immediate attention upon entering the salon. A fun method of display is to use an item as a prop to serve as a clue that there is a new product available. For example, if you want to promote the Disco Dolly Collection, hang a disco ball next to it. Not everyone is connected to social media all the time so they might not know about the collection.


If the customer sees a disco ball in the salon they will want to know why it is there and come closer to investigate. This tactic will certainly help if she has not previously seen the social media marketing about the collection. We make use of LED lights in our displays to light up the dark corners and then add a well-placed, well-worded sign, as well as promotional material sent out by head office. Signs should be short and easy to read. Price each item clearly so your customer should not have to ask how much it is. Rotate the items on your display as stock availability goes down. Make sure you have enough stock when putting a certain item on display.

Foundation To sum up, do not use your display as a shelf or ‘silent salesperson’, it should only draw enough attention to hook the customer’s interest and the nail tech should take it from there to close a sale. A retail display forms a foundation that a small business like ours can use to bump up turnover tremendously. Enjoy your displays, let the creative juices flow and play with them. Make it a fun, monthly activity as well as a team building exercise and use input from your staff as two or even three heads are better than one.

SONETTE VAN RENSBURG Having a retail area in the nail salon is not only smart business and increases profits, but most importantly, is absolutely necessary in ensuring the longevity of the services and treatments you offer your clients. Selling products to your clients should be about providing them with what they really need and what will benefit them and their service. The best way to sell a product is by enticing the senses and involving your client in the sales process. Make sure your retail area is well situated in the salon, where it is visible for all your clients to see. Also, make it easily accessible as there is no point placing your retail area behind your reception counter or somewhere in a dead corner or space. Having the necessary retail items on offer in full view is the secret to increasing your retail sales. Consequently, the best way to display your retail products is to have open shelves which are easy for clients to reach. If a client feels restricted and not able to walk up to your retail area and pick up a product to see what it is on offer, the chances are they won’t even look. It also creates the perception that the products might be very

expensive and makes clients feel as if they are not allowed to touch anything. Your retail area needs to be inviting, well-lit and attractive – you want to make sure you capture your client’s attention and draw them in.

Display Make sure that the retail display area is always clean and dust free, that product containers are clean and that the packaging is not damaged. This also gives the impression that the products are moving and being sold on a regular basis. Shelves must be well stocked but not cluttered, with a reasonable assortment and range of products to serve your clients’ needs. Keep up to date with trends and what is current and available in the industry. Make sure that there are samples or testers for clients to try. Remember that if they can see it and try it, they will most likely want to buy it.

Pricing Make sure prices are visible, either at the bottom or back of a product bottle or packaging. Alternatively, you could print a price list to display in a frame or Perspex stand, with additional

Maureen Brill has been in the nail industry for 11 years. She won her first award in 2014 at the Professional Beauty Nail Championship and subsequently became an educator for Bio Sculpture. Brill won the Professional Beauty Masters category in 2017 and in 2018, was judged Professional Beauty’s Nail Professional of the Year. She and her husband are the coowners of the Bio Sculpture Evo Carletonville Nail Bar and Training Centre.

copies available for your clients to take home. This could act as a little reminder for them to come back and buy something. Shelf-talkers and product information brochures are also a great way to prompt your clients, as it gives them all the necessary information about the features and benefits of the products. Some clients may not purchase something immediately, but it will give them something to think about for the next time they visit your salon. Make a note of these clients and make sure you follow up to see whether the time is right for them to purchase the next time they come in. Following up usually leads to a sale. Put yourself in your client’s shoes and think about what you would expect, what would attract you and what you would like to experience when buying retail products from a salon.

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the industry for 28 years. She consults with salons and spas and trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail technology.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Business

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Nail Design Competition

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Rules & Regulations 1. Designs must be created according to the theme – CIRCUS AND FUNFAIR 2. Rhinestones and embellishments may be used but must not dominate. 3. Nail stylists have complete artistic freedom to interpret and create their designs in any style they wish using flat, encapsulated 2D or 3D design work and techniques. 4. Designs must be created on a live model, either on natural nails or enhancements but not on tips only. 5. Photographs must be high quality. 6. The model’s hands, cuticles and nails must be perfectly manicured and in a good condition. PLEASE remove cuticle oil prior to taking your final photo entry. 7. Any length and shape may be achieved. 8. A combination of products and nail systems may be used, as long as it pertains to and complements the theme and look. 9. All 10 of the model’s nails must have a design and creation on them; each design on each nail must be different but must complement one another and be consistent in design flowing throughout all 10 nails to tell a story. 10. Designs must be the nail stylist’s own original work. 11. Please provide a step by step of your work, photos and the inspiration behind your design. Additional points awarded for presentation. 12. Photos must be submitted by no later than the 18th February 2019 13. Photos must be emailed to nailfile@probeauty.co.za and clearly indicated and labeled with the name of the Nail Technician. Entries must include full contact details. 14. Winners and placements will be announced on social media and the following issue of Professional Beauty & NailFile magazine. The judge’s decision is final. Sponsored By:

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53 COPs Product & SOPs News

The professional

nail salon In this special feature, Sonette van Rensburg looks at salon operating standards and codes of practice and procedures with regards to professionalism, ethics, client care, hygiene and safety.

I

t is not just your skill that is important in ensuring you provide a proper professional service, but most importantly having an extensive knowledge and a good, sound understanding about everything that encompasses your job specification and that which makes for a diligent, knowledgeable and skilled professional. You should also follow a set code of practice (COP) and operating standards which have been set out according to the scope of practice for that of a qualified Manicurist / Nail Therapist / Nail Technician/ / Nail Specialist and Nail Technologist. A COP is put in place to protect and ensure the safety and wellbeing of not only the client, but also the salon and the person performing the said services and treatments. COPs include those practices that are allowed within the scope of practice and may be performed, as well as those which are out of the scope of practice and that are not allowed to be performed.

Qualified tech A qualified person should have been trained according to the standards, procedures and COPs that have been set out for the specific services and treatments for which they are qualified. They should be able to perform and provide hand, foot and nail services safely and effectively in a clean and hygienic environment, at the same time being aware of and maintaining the wellbeing and safety of themselves and their clients.

SOPs All salons should make sure that there are certain policies and procedures in place with their own Standard Operating Procedures (SOPs) for adhering to a set COP. Basically these are a set of Rules & Regulations which employees within an establishment are expected to adhere to in a working environment, ensuring that clients are protected from improper practices. If there are no rules then things are bound to go haywire!

There are a number of different aspects and general rules of practice which should be employed and considered. It is vitally important that safe working practices and company protocols are followed in order to deem the salon environment to be safe. Standards of practice that should be considered and included when working with people are: safety procedures which need to be observed and adopted when using electrical equipment, chemicals and products; fire safety; First Aid; and hygiene & sanitation. Then there are also a personal and professional code of ethics and standards of practice that need to be considered, when communicating with and taking care of clients. This helps to ensure and establish acceptable work ethics as to how to interact, conduct oneself and deal with situations in a positive, confident and constructive manner. It is extremely important for all salon professionals to be aware of and know exactly what these rules and codes of practice are and to make sure they are being adhered to and followed diligently. Remember that maintaining proper professional standards is under your control, so make your salon space a professional, safe and happy place.

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Style Savvy

54

Sonette van things and more, provoking Rensburg unpacks an optimistic assertiveness and suggesting a need to start the 2019 colour palette with inspiring shades of global colour authority, afresh, that provide self assurance and the Pantone Colour impart themselves to being, jubilant, imaginative, resourceful Institute, with a focus and buoyant. on its official Colour of the Year – Living Coral. Chosen one

I

magine a world without colour, it’s quite inconceivable. Colours play such an important role in every aspect of our lives, they evoke emotions and affect our moods. They also allow us to express ourselves and be creative. Colour has meaning and can be empowering, provide confidence and be uplifting. It presents itself all around us in nature and signifies life on earth, and beneath the sea. Pantone’s 2019 Colour Palette presents 12 notable colours that are described as ‘vivacious and energetic, yet definitive, to create the most unanticipated fusions’. Additional to these are four very specific characteristic neutrals with a distinctive yet unique quality. All in all, 16 hues that generate an amalgamation of fashion forward flair and street bravura that lends itself to endless possibilities and an essential need for originality. The description of these colours by Pantone ranges from ‘wistful’ and ‘blooming’, to ‘treasured’, ‘transporting’ and ‘celebrated’. A spectrum of shades that are all these

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In the run up to Pantone’s announcement in early December that Living Coral would be its 2019 Colour of the Year, I looked at all the articles by designers and stylists predicting which hue they thought Pantone would choose and it made me smile. Living Coral,

As Leatrice Eisseman, executive director of the Pantone Colour Institute so aptly says: “Colour is an equalising lens through which we experience our natural and digital realities and this is particularly true for Living Coral. With consumers craving human interaction and social connection, the humanising and heartening qualities displayed by the convivial Pantone shade – Living Coral – hit a responsive chord. It has a golden undertone that energises and enlivens with a softer edge. Living Coral manifests itself as being dependable and epitomises a longing for lightheartedness, as well as being enlivening and assertive.”

Colour has meaning and can be empowering, provide confidence and be uplifting. It presents itself all around us in nature and signifies life on earth, and beneath the sea. which eventually made it to the forefront, was most certainly not top of their lists. Canary, orangey yellow, midnight navy and even white seemed to favourites among the predictions. However, Living Coral, a high-spirited, yet easy-going warm shade finally revealed its lively presence as Pantone’s chosen colour for 2019. It’s an absolutely stunning shade, one which I have adored for as long as I can remember and which has always conjured a feeling of happiness and contentment.

I think this coral hue could not be more appropriate for 2019, with a nurturing affinity, promising protection and inspiring a feeling of safety and comfort that is so desired in a fast paced, up-to-theminute society. So nail techs, liven up, be playful and get your coral on! This shade is available in gorgeous collections of classic polish, long lasting polish and gel polish options, which are sure to astound and revitalise your clients.


Style Savvy

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56 Business Interview Trends

Talking to... Alisha Rimando Artistic Nail Design’s executive VP and creative director, Alisha Rimando, recently visited South Africa for Twincare International’s Nail World. We caught up with Rimando to learn about this former World Champion’s fascinating career and the latest developments from her brand. At Twincare International’s annual Nail World event, which took place on 22 October in Johannesburg, you held a workshop on the Artistic Putty PolyGel Nail Enhancement System. How has this product taken off? Artistic Putty, which is a premixed hybrid of acrylic and hard gel and comes in a tube, is doing really well. Its effect on the market is similar to what happened when gel polish was

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first introduced. The advent of gel polish saw an influx of 50% more customers, which resulted in a demand for nail techs. As a result, new entrants in the industry could only do gel polish manicures and not enhancements, whereas established nail techs could do hard gel, liquid & powder, and gel polish manicures. As nail art became popular, the demand for nail enhancements grew as you can fit more nail art onto longer nails. So with Artistic Putty, the gel polish nail techs can now learn

how to do enhancements in only eight hours, whereas it would take much longer to learn hard gel and liquid & powder enhancement systems. A great thing about Putty is that there is no smell, which is great as spas in particular are very sensitive to smell. Because Putty is so easy to do, you can do enhancements faster and therefore increase your number of treatments per day. It’s great for Matric Dance season in South Africa.


Business Trends Interview

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Following on from Artistic Nail Design’s collaboration with the ‘Baywatch’ movie in 2017, your latest collaboration is with the recently released, Freddie Mercury/Queen biopic, ‘Bohemian Rhapsody’. Please comment. It’s always very exciting to be involved in movie collaborations and we work on these collections a year in advance. There is so much to do, such as creating the colours, getting the necessary regulatory clearances and advising our distributors on marketing. Our Bohemian Rhapsody Collection was such fun to do as we steeped ourselves in the rich, deep, glitter shades of the 1980s and have fun names for the colours, such as ‘Music is my medicine’. This collaboration was a dream come true for us.

I believe that unlike most nail professionals, you didn’t get into the industry because of an abiding passion or interest in nails? That’s true. I was 17 years old, had graduated from high school, went to study law at university and was waiting tables to pay for my tuition. To supplement my earnings I thought I would do a

As a brand we really support nail professionals and we even have our own magazine. A few years ago we were voted by a US magazine as their Number 1 Educational Nail Brand. make-up course so enquired at a beauty school and they said that I could do it as part of a whole beauty course that required 600 hours of study! Instead I started working in a nail salon and a sales rep mentioned that David Daniel, the cousin of Danny Haile of Gelish and Hand & Nail Harmony fame, was presenting classes for back fills in French manicures. David saw me working in his class and offered me a teaching job at Hand & Nail Harmony. They flew me to Colorado – it was the first time I’d ever been on a plane. Danny made me spend a day practising on his nails. So, I never fell in love with nails, rather I fell in love with teaching. It was only when I met the late, legendary Tom Holcomb that I actually fell in love with nails. Tom is the one who created the standard for pink and white manicures.

How did you come to join Artistic Nail Design? I’ve known the owners of Nail Alliance for 20 years and in fact worked with them as an educator when they had EzFlow Nail Systems. Then I started my own brand in 2004 called Entity Nails with Tom Holcomb. Tom was renowned for his incredible and creative nail art and won the world championship multiple times. My time at Entity gave me experience in developing and manufacturing liquid & powder products, which has obviously proved invaluable in my current position at Artistic Nail Design. I decided to leave Entity in 2008 when I was offered a job as nail director of Elizabeth Arden Red Door Spas, so I moved to New York. Red Door Spas had 31 locations and employed 360 nail techs. When Danny (Haile) started creating gel polish, he asked me to try it and I was so amazed by it that I predicted it would change the nail industry. I brought gel polish into Red Door and we started doing huge business in gel polish manicures. Because I had 360 Red Door nail techs working with the product, I could give direct feedback to Danny. Gel polish really took off in the global market. > online @ probeauty.co.za


Interview

58 Around this time Nail Alliance decided to create a new professional nail brand called Artistic Nail Design and they offered me the executive vice president and creative director position. As I really felt the need to get back into the professional market, I accepted and moved to Dallas in 2012. Artistic Nail Design was launched with 66 gel polishes, as well as a top coat and base coat. I’m involved in development, manufacture, promotion and education. It’s important to note that Artistic is exclusively professional, even our nail polish range – Colour Revolution – will remain in salons. As a brand we really support nail professionals and we even have our own magazine. A few years ago we were voted by a US magazine as their Number 1 Educational Nail Brand. Our colours are amazing, our marketing is fun and edgy and we really push the envelope. While Nail Alliance has an umbrella of nail brands, our point of difference is that we have brought a singular personality to the brand. Our education is different too, being comprised of a small, cult-like family of educators. We are very supportive of women empowerment and our clients appreciate that the brand has a woman as its executive vice president and creative director. Most of the other brands have men in this position.

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With such a full and varied career – how did you find the time to compete in over a hundred nail competitions? Before I started Entity I was travelling all over the world and competing. In 1996 I made my first visit to Japan and worked there a lot for a distributor. I was also travelling around the US and competing. At the time I was single and it was a fun lifestyle. In 2005, when I started Entity, they supported my participation in competitions as well my bringing my own model whose nails I knew really well – this is very important when competing. I won the World Nail Championship in that year – for pink and white sculpture – and received a $10,000 prize.

When did the nail art bug hit you? When I was in Japan in 1996. Nail art has been around since the 1980s but in those days it was unsophisticated and unimaginative – like gluing a feather onto a nail,

for example. In 1996, Tom Holcomb did a design inside the nail he was building with liquid & powder and the Japanese market went crazy for it. So they asked him if he knew other nail techs who could produce work like that and therefore he taught me to do it. While we were both in Japan we came across colour pigments and started mixing them with clear acrylic powder and we created acrylic colours.

In your various travels to 15 or so countries, what observations have you made? I’ve noticed the vastly different ways countries would use the colours from a particular Artistic Nail Design collection. The biggest markets from our point of view are Latin America, Eastern Europe and Asia. The culture that goes into the nail art in these countries blows my mind. For instance, Russia is hard core, while Mexico is vibrant. I’ve watched the industry change and grow in each country and it’s usually the same cycle of events; nail brands infiltrate the market, then the price drops, then there is suddenly a salon on every corner, then some salons start doing nail art on a few clients and then most of the other clients decide to get into nail art. It’s a whole evolution and it happens in every country in the same way.


View from the top

With her salon, Tenfold, judged 2018’s Professional Beauty Nail Salon of the Year, Georgia Shekeshe is riding high, both figuratively and literally. Joanna Sterkowicz finds out more.

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hen Tenfold moved from its original location in Menlyn Maine, Pretoria, to Johannesburg in May 2017, owner Georgia Shekeshe opted for a rooftop location with an amazing view of the city. Tenfold is situated on the 16th floor of Hallmark House in Siemert Street, within the hip and trendy Maboneng Precinct. Says Shekeshe: “For as long as I can remember I’ve spoken of perfecting exclusive inclusivity through a unique combination of luxe culture and authentic, approachable services. I believe Maboneng allows me to do just that as it forms part of the narrative of the inner city, a place alive with vibrant culture, entrepreneurial spirit and a strong sense of community. Maboneng is a place where people from all spheres of life interact, overcoming artificial social barriers. It’s a thrilling time to be in the centre of the Joburg inner-city renaissance. “Our location on the rooftop

floor frames a 270-degree view of Joburg’s skyline. I don’t think anyone could conjure up a better view of the city to enjoy while having a service, be it a manicure, pedicure or gel polish manicure.”

Natural focus Tenfold has always focused strongly on nail health and its longevity, hence no products such as acrylic or artificial enhancements are offered. This was part of the reason for moving the salon. Shekeshe explains: “Pretoria wasn’t ready for a natural nails concept, neither from the service offering to the aesthetic of the space. So, I had two options – either pivot to accommodate the Pretoria market, or move to Johannesburg and try again.” A few of Tenfold’s clients have followed the salon to Johannesburg. “This came as a welcome surprise as I didn’t anticipate that any clients would follow us simply because of the long drive from Pretoria to Johannesburg. I understood that moving would mean having to start from scratch,” she notes.

Expansive facilities Tenfold occupies approximately 135 square metres, with 10 pedicure stations and nine manicure stations in the main area. Shekeshe employs five full-time manicurists and two part-timers. The salon has elegant and clean lines, with natural elements such as woven baskets to lend a rustic feel. “All of the furniture is custom made so that we can move it around. That way we can turn into an event space, which is very important to me. We use some commonplace items in the salon, but other than that, everything is new and unique and a reflection of what the modern nail salon should be,” concludes Shekeshe.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Business SalonTrends Focus

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Step by Step

60

mosaic MARVELLOUS

Tania Biddle of Bio Sculpture Education – International has created this alluringly pretty and elegant look.

1 2 1. Apply base layer. Cure and wipe.

Here’s how to do it

Glitter Nails • Apply a layer of a soft pink colour gel. Cure. • Using a clean Gel Brush, pick up and apply a light coloured glitter to the sticky layer of cured gel. Use the tip of the brush bristles to flatten the glitter onto the nail • Follow with a layer of non-wipe Top Coat. Cure. • Use an applicator to evenly apply and polish a transparent chrome powder over the entire nail.

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Business Step by Trends Step

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3 4

6

5

• End with a layer of Gloss. • Cure and cleanse.

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62 Business In the Market Trends

Product

HUB

Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails.

30 years and celebrating The Bio Sculpture Evo Celebration Collection coincides with the brand’s 30-year anniversary and comprises: Amanda (royal berry blue); Pauline (fuchsia pink with pink glitters and gold shavings); Anna-Marié (gold glitter fragments); Talya (silver glitter); Nolene (raspberry pink); Elsie (navy blue); Hanna (dark bronze); and Rene (silver glitter / rose pink).

0861 246 435

Lining up To ensure sanitation in your salon, Milk Solutions has created single-use liners that fit their Pedi Pool, Super Bowl and Tool Tidy to use for each client. With an exciting recycling programme to be launched soon that benefits the earth, consumer and salon, this range is bound to be a staple in many salons in the near future.

011 454 8119

In the pink Artistic Nail Design’s Pink is the New Black collection was created in support of breast cancer. This collection brings forward the fight to survive breast cancer. Donations from the sales of this collection go to the foundation in support of breast cancer.

011 305 1600

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Fight on ibd supports women surviving and battling breast cancer. To support this amazing cause we are donating towards the breast cancer foundation with the sales of this ibd Pink collection. The Pink collection brings home the seriousness and plight of the survivors. We want a cure and early detection.

011 305 1600


Top Tech Talk NailFile chats to South African nail tech, Eloise Nom Chong, about placing 3rd in the Scratch Shoot Out Cover Competition and about her 14-year-long career. To have come 3rd in an international competition with over 120 entries from all over the world is an amazing achievement. How did it feel when you heard the news? At first I had no idea I even placed because I really wasn’t expecting it. But then I got a call from Katia Da Silva of NSI Johannesburg and the conversation went something like this: Katia: Screams of excitement! Eloise: “Katia? What’s going on?” Katia (in a more audible volume but still screaming): “You placed third!!!” Eloise (now shouting): “You’re kidding me! Katia don’t lie!” Katia: “Elle, you placed third!” Well, this awesome news put me into a state of total shock, but I was bubbling on the inside with excitement so I started screaming too.

Do you participate in competitions like this on a regular basis? I’ve never competed in an international competition before and it was actually Katia who encouraged me to enter the Scratch competition.

What about live competitions? Yes, I have competed in the nail art competitions with NSI.

I believe you work out of The Muse in Bedforview – what is the set up there? My own business is called Elostrated, a name also shared by the line of gel polishes I have just created. The Muse is an all-round salon and we offer everything from hair to nails, lashes, makeup, image consulting, beauty and tanning. The salon is only one and a half years old and I’ve been there right since inception.

What first ignited your passion for nails?

Art and psychology to be honest. It’s the interaction with so many different people and getting to know them that appeals to me. My first career option was psychology because I love to observe the inner workings of the human mind. If you’re a hair stylist or nail technician, you will know that you automatically become a therapist too, so I do enjoy that part of my job. The nail art aspect allows me to escape into something that I enjoy doing. It gives me the opportunity to create and to express. Having done art at school helps me in my work, which is just as well as the majority of my clients request nail art.

Abstract art has been a bit of a trend. Although to be honest, my clients sit down, give me their hands and say: “Elle, do whatever you want”.

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Business Trends Q&A

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64 Business Trends Q&A

of nail art that your clients have requested over the past year? Abstract art has been a bit of a trend. Although to be honest, my clients sit down, give me their hands and say: “Elle, do whatever you want”.

Where do you think nail art is headed?

What is the most complex nail art you’ve ever done? I always get asked this question and I never know how to answer it as I don’t find art to be complex. But, if I had to put a piece on the table it would have to be my ‘Beauty and the Beast’ 3D

figurines. These took about two months to put together and it was for a competition that I was a day late for so I didn’t land up competing.

Have you noticed any trends in the type or style

Oh man! There are so many directions in which it is heading and the nail designs that are being created out there at the moment are just phenomenal. There a nail artist called Tony (his Instagram handle is tonysnail) who takes nails to a whole different level. For instance, he created a ladybug on a nail and the wings actually open! He’s also created a nail with a match that can actually spark a light – something that would be great for people who smoke and don’t have a light! His work is incredible and definitely worth a look.

Are you trained in nails only or did you also study other aspects of beauty? I’m also a microblading therapist and a make-up artist. My diploma in nails was done through BTI and DreamNails. Over the years I have had more training with Katia Da Silva at NSI Johannesburg.

Do you have a preferred medium that you like to work in – as in gel, liquid & powder or gel polish? I don’t have a preferred medium, it’s more like – if it works then we’ll use that!

Is there anything else about your career in nails that you would like to mention? Just to keep a look out for Elostrated Gel Polishes. In addition, I would like to give a huge thank you to Katia who keeps me going and to Nancy Mendes of The Muse for her endless support.

online @ probeauty.co.za


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755nm | 808nm | 1064nm combined, suitable for all skin and hair types.

8 hours continuous working.

Sapphire Crystal 4oC constant cooling and continuous protection of skin.

12mm x 20mm big spot size. Max. Output power up-to 1000W

Applicator with OLED display, the cumulative energy of treatment and operation progress are visible.

CONTACT DETAILS: Ghazanfar; +27 62 842 1664 • Email: ali@in-visiongroup.com


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LIGHT YEARS AWAY® brightening skincare system with anti-aging ACTIVE MARINE C COMPLEX

In his never ending quest for eternal youth, Dr. Brandt has turned to the sea and uncovered a technological breakthrough in skin whitening. The result – dr. brandt® light years away® formulated with ACTIVE MARINE C COMPLEX, a powerful blend of marine extracts and highly stable vitamin C, fortified with anti-aging properties and potent botanicals. dr. brandt® light years away® system targets and controls hyperpigmentation to whiten, lighten and brighten skin, bringing back the youthful, luminous complexion from years ago.

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Fades dark spots & other skin discolorations Prevents dark spots from surfacing Evens skin tone & brightens complexion Nourishes skin for a more healthy, youthful look & feel

Advanced Cosmetics Africa Email: lean@advacos.co.za | Phone: +27(0)66 485 5902

Profile for Professional Beauty SA

Professional Beauty Jan/Fen 2019  

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