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May 2017

For your beauty, hair and spa business


GOOD CALL! Effective front desk etiquette

Not Another Salon! Sophia Hilton on how she built her brand

Laser quest

The latest in hair removal and skin rejuvenation

Goldenrules The next tanning trends set to shape the industry

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4 Published by and (C) 2016 Trade Exhibitions & Publishing FZ LCC. Registered at Dubai Media City. 321 Building #8, Dubai. UAE t: +971 (0) 4 375 66 53 Trade Exhibitions & Publishing FZ LCC News editor: Emma Baron Contributors: Maria Dowling Advertising: t: +971 (0)50 359 1157 Sales director: Zaid Nourouz Circulation & subscriptions enquiries: t: +971 (0) 4 375 66 53 Marketing Manager: Emma Baron General Manager: Andrew Green Publisher: Mark Moloney Design & production: Image Creative Design Printing: Masar Printing and Publishing, Dubai-UAE - PO Box 485100, Dubai Controlled Distribution: Blue Truck The Publishers cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessarily those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication, which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers’ particular circumstances.

in this issue... 21

The publisher accepts no responsibility for any advertiser whose advertisement is published in Professional Beauty. Anyone dealing with advertisers must make their own enquiries.


Regulars 7

News Openings, launches and the rest of the news from the world of spa, hair and beauty


Insider Our exclusive monthly stats for beauty salons, spas and hair salons


Features 34 Ask The Experts Advice on getting the best from your hair care supplier, motivating staff and enhancing lash treatments 63 Treatment News We share our experiences of new and innovative treatments, plus their business benefits 66 Product News This month we focus on results driven, antiageing skincare

Cover image: Shutterstock


72 Calendar The essential dates for your business diary from trade shows to conferences and training


Accessible Science Dr Claudia Aguirre explains how therapists can keep up with the science behind wellness

25 Laser Quest The latest technologies in laser and IPL and how they could benefit your business 37 Not Another Salon! Star hairdresser Sophia Hilton on how social media helped her build her brand 55 Good Call Maria Dowling explains how to conduct the perfect telephone conversation with your client 57 Golden Rules Industry experts on the latest tanning trends set to hit our industry

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aving your finger on the pulse and keeping up to date with the latest technology is essential for any spa, salon or clinic wanting to stay ahead of the game.

In this issue, we feature the latest advances in laser and IPL technology that are ensuring greater client comfort and faster results in the UAE. Turn to page 25 to learn more. Star hairdresser Sophia Hilton wowed the audience when she appeared on our HJ stage at the Professional Beauty GCC show in February. On page 37 she tells us how built her innovative salon brand Not Another Salon! through social media and other mediums; it’s an inspirational read. The summer weather is just around the corner and with it the usual client concerns of how to care for and protect skin against the harsh environment. In Golden Rules on page 57 industry experts tell us about the latest techniques and products in fake tanning, including a new generation of products that protect and nourish the skin while giving a golden glow. A perfect solution for summer skin. With all this and more, we hope you find this issue jam-packed with advice and inspiration for your business.

Emma Baron, News Editor

55 Hairdressers Journal 43 Linea Modern lines for a futuristic collection 45 Innocence A partnership of disheveled silhouettes, invisible disconnection and erratic textures 49 Get The Look Tips on how to use colour to enhance your cuts

43 37


53 Celebrity Style Stylist to the stars Jen Atkins talks trends

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All the news and views from the world of beauty, hair and spa

Genetic-profiling and virtual reality predicted as top trends for the beauty industry


kincare informed by genetics and virtual reality in the retail space are among the top trends predicted to shake up the beauty industry as we head into 2020, according to global trend authority WGSN’s Future of Beauty report. “As technology and Mother Nature join forces to meet the needs of an increasingly socially conscious consumer, our beauty habits are predicted to become all the more

holistic and personal come 2020,” the report states. WGSN’s Insight Team identified four significant movements which they believe will change the face of the beauty industry in the coming years. These include next-generation genetics – researchers believe the analysis of genetics will transform the industry’s approach to personalisation; the allinclusive consumer – emerging markets

are driving a cultural shift in the needs and wants of the beauty consumer; the always-on assistant – researchers believe the consumer journey will be elevated by interactive technologies; and nature hacking – as consumers pursue a more sustainable and ecologically sound lifestyle, the industry is responding with a conscious gravitation towards products and techniques which echo a desire for clean living.

Global Mentorship Programme announces new regional directors

Langham Hotels in talks to open female-only hotel resort in Doha

The Global Mentorship Programme (GMP) has announced four new regional directors for 2017. The programme, launched as a Global Wellness Institute initiative and now in its third year, pairs experienced spa, wellness and hospitality executives with less experienced spa managers. Operating globally, the programme sees mentors offer mentees support, advice and encouragement, with the aim to help them further progress in their careers. Mentors must have at least five years’ experience to join, while mentees need a minimum of two years’ experience.

Luxury hotel operator Langham Hotels is in talks over opening a women-only resort in Doha that will also include the world’s largest spa. The Hong Kong-based group has a number of hotels due to open in the region next year, including a resort on Dubai’s Palm Jumeirah, a luxury hotel in the newly planned Qatar city of Lusail and a 279-room property in downtown Jeddah. Robert Warman, CEO of Langham Hotels, commented: “We’re looking at another resort, possibly in Doha. We think it’s very close and that we have a unique opportunity to run a female-only resort with the largest spa in the world. We think that could be a really unique positioning to bring a high level of service into what has traditionally probably not been the top-tier segment.”

New GMP appointments for 2017 include Daryll Naidu, director of spa at the Shangri-La Hotel Toronto, as regional director for Canada; and Dawn Tardiff, founder of the BodiScience Wellness Center & Spa, as regional director for the US. Also new to the programme this year are Rekha Chaudhari, owner and managing director of spa consultancy JCKRC, as regional director for India; and Emmanuel Arroyo, regional director of wellness at Rosewood Hotels and Resorts, as regional GMP director for North & South America. Jean-Guy de Gabriac, chair of the Global Mentorship Programme, said: “In 2017 we hope to encourage at least 200 spa, wellness and hospitality professionals to join as mentors, in order to inspire 400 aspiring professionals. We are also in contact with key educational institutions to find ways to bridge the gap in our industry, to build or strengthen operational skills while also developing a mindset of leadership through global mentoring.”

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3 - 4 April 2017 26 - 27 June 2017 18 - 19 September 2017 5 - 6 March 2018


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Skin creams containing paraffin linked to fire danger

Sophia Hilton impresses the industry at Gloss Academy


hrough a series of workshops Gloss Academy introduced the UAE hairdressing world to UK phenonium Sophia Hilton, colourist extraordinaire. Having represented Gloss Academy on the HJ live stage at Professional Beauty, Sophia continued to wow the Gulf salons when Gloss Academy hosted two-day workshops. Day one focused on “100% freehand balayage” and day two “The Grey Specialist”. Attendees from top salons across the Gulf including Ted Morgan, Tara Rose,

Roots, Salon Ink and Pastels as well as past and present Gloss Academy students were able to experience new techniques in colour to meet the current trends, learn how to set and meet client expectations, and participate in handson tutorials on finishing techniques for the best possible pictures for portfolios and social media. This workshop was the first of many that Gloss Academy is hosting in 2017 with Sophia Hilton. For further details on future workshops and to register for a place, call the academy on 03 321 6588.

Nikki Beach Resort & Spa Dubai to open Nikki Spa Nikki Beach Resort & Spa Dubai will open its doors to the Nikki Spa this April. The venue will introduce an Espa treatment concept, and will span 1,650m2. The spa will feature seven separate spa suites for men and women, and one couples’ suite in addition to a hammam chamber, sauna, steam, ice fountain, and a mixed vitality pool, along with

indoor and outdoor relaxation lounges. Nikki Beach Resort & Spa Dubai general manager Alexander Schneider said: “We are thrilled to introduce Nikki Spa as an extension of the Nikki Beach brand and reveal a real destination spa. In partnership with Espa, we plan to offer our valued guests an unparalleled spa experience.”

Creams containing paraffin that are used to treat skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis have been linked to 37 deaths in the UK since 2010. When residue from liquid paraffin soaks into fabric it can become flammable, and could become a fire hazard for regular users of such creams who do not frequently change clothing or bedding. The warning comes from a UK radio station, BBC Radio 5 Live investigation and looked into two incidents in 2015 and one in 2006. In all three cases a man died by accidentally setting himself on fire when lighting a cigarette or pipe near fabric soaked in residue from paraffin-based products. Liquid paraffin is used in creams to help treat dry skin conditions because it is believed to create a protective layer over the skin that helps retain hydration, fortifying skin’s natural moisture barrier. The investigation could have an impact for salons that help clients to treat these conditions, as well as those that offer paraffin wax skin-softening treatments with manicures or pedicures.

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Four Seasons appoints new head of global spa task force

UAE’s Middle Eastern wellness market valued at AED9.9bn


he UAE leads the Middle Eastern wellness tourism market, with an average of 1.7 million wellness trips generating $2.7 billion (AED9.9bn) annually, according to new research. The country accounts for 14% of the MENA spa market, said Colliers Experiential Travel Series in a report which added that Morocco, Tunisia and Jordan were also prominent players in the regional market.

It said wellness trips in the UAE have grown by 17.9 per cent over the past five years, while overall tourism has grown 8.1 per cent. The Dubai hotel spa market experienced a 9 per cent increase in the average number of treatments sold per day in the first half of 2016 compared to the same period in 2015 and 25 new hotel spas are expected to open this year, making a total of over 200 spas.

Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts has appointed Michael Newcombe as chair of its Global Spa and Wellness Taskforce. The taskforce, which includes senior spa and wellness professionals from around the world, spearheads the Four Seasons’ global spa strategy. Newcombe, who is general manager of Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, has been Americas Task Force Leader for the past four years. Explaining that holistic will be the centre of the task force’s strategy, Newcombe said: “Wellness isn’t just about appearance or feeling good, it’s about restoring and maintaining balance, physically and mentally. Whether it’s eating healthy and staying active while on a business trip or taking time to relax and recharge while on vacation, our goal is to create highly personalised, holistic spa experiences for each of our guests.”

EIDEAL to launch Davines at Beauty World Middle East 2017 EIDEAL is lined up to launch luxury haircare brand Davines at Beauty World Middle East, due to take place from May 14–16 in Dubai. Davines is an innovative, sustainable haircare brand. Since its conception in Italy in 1983, the brand has offered a full range of products that regularly appear on the pages of fashion and beauty magazines worldwide. Haysam Eid, managing director of EIDEAL commented: “We believe that Davines is a great addition to the market and we are excited to hold its official launch at Beauty World this May. Salons are now becoming more planet friendly and are taking conscious decisions of switching to sustainable products that at the same time satisfy their clients’ needs, which further allows them to deliver better results.”

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Global Wellness Institute partners with World Travel Market The Global Wellness Institute (GWI) and World Travel Market (WTM) have announced a new partnership. The partnership will see GWI organise the Wellness Symposium for the World Travel Market, as part of the WTM’s greater focus on wellness travel. The agreement will be announced at the Wellness Symposium at the Arabian Travel Market (ATM) in Dubai on April 24-27. In 2016, the ATM introduced a Wellness and Spa Lounge, designed to connect spa and wellness buyers from the Middle East region with international suppliers.

KeraStraight headlines at London Fashion Week 2017


air brand KeraStraight made its debut appearance as official sponsors of London Fashion Week, where the brand showcased innovative products and supported six of the fashion shows. The brand’s global ambassadors, Trevor Sorbie salons, helped to style the models at The Royal Society of Arts, where a whole range of KeraStraight products were used to transform their concepts into reality. Jez Barnett, founder and managing

director of KeraStraight, commented: “As the official hair sponsor for an entire hair venue; RSA (Royal Society of Arts) – The Painting Rooms, there were five designers in total showcasing at the venue throughout the day. We partnered with Trevor Sorbie to provide two hair teams and produce five hair concepts for each designer using KeraStraight styling products. The teams worked with a cocktail of KS Style to produce individual textures and finishes unique to enhance each collection of clothes.”

Spiritual retreats change feel-good chemical systems in the brain, research finds Researchers at the Thomas Jefferson University in Philadelphia have shown there are changes in the dopamine and serotonin systems in the brains of people who take part in spiritual, meditative and religious retreats. The researchers conducted a study that included 14 Christian participants, aged 24 to 76, who attended a sevenday Ignatian retreat, spending much of their day in silent contemplation, prayer and reflection. Post-retreat scans revealed decreases of between 5 and 8 per cent in dopamine transporter, and 6.5 per cent in serotonin transporter binding, which could make more of the neurotransmitters – which are associated with positive emotions – available to the brain.

“Since serotonin and dopamine are part of the reward and emotional systems of the brain, it helps us understand why these practices result in powerful, positive emotional experiences,” said Andrew Newberg, MD and director of research in the Marcus Institute of Integrative Health. “Our study showed significant changes in the dopamine and serotonin transporters after the seven-day retreat, which could help prime participants for the spiritual experiences that they reported.” The study has interesting implications for the spa industry, where many destination locations offer regular seven-day retreats which include silent meditation and other spiritual elements.

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international news


INDUSTRY NEWS FROM AROUND THE GLOBE Elemis opens second Academy of Excellence


pa brand Elemis has opened its second Academy of Excellence in London, UK. The 4,450sq ft training academy features six training rooms, including a dedicated international training room for small groups and one-to-one training sessions, and a specially designed retail training room. The facility spans two floors and can take a maximum of 60 delegates per day. The academy will offer a range of treatment education and business courses, including Consulting for Success, Retailing for Success and Operating for Success, immersing trainees in the brand’s core

values while teaching them the skills, operations and retailing that make a salon successful. “We’re absolutely delighted to open the doors to our network of therapists to train them to the highest standard in our capital city London,” said Noella Gabriel, managing director of Elemis. “The heartbeat of Elemis has always been education. After 26 years it’s incredibly important that our delegates are brought into an environment that represents the complete journey of the brand to its fullest. To be immersed in that environment is key to enabling our delegates to fall in love with the brand.

“We have always invested in educating an Elemis therapist to deliver the treatment experience to a very high standard, with both knowledge of skin and product combined.” Elemis opened its first Academy of Excellence, also in the UK, in Birmingham in 2015.

Spa-focused resort debuts in Phuket Set on a verdant hillside overlooking some of Thailand’s most celebrated beaches, the Avista Hideaway Phuket Patong MGallery by Sofitel has opened. Drawing its inspiration from the traditional culture, arts and way of life of the local villages, the fivestar boutique hotel has 150 rooms and suites and features a contemporary Thai design. The Aqua Spa & Massage offers guests a holistic, sensory-driven experience with traditional Thai fullbody massage a speciality.

With eight indoor treatment rooms and two al fresco cabanas, signature treatments also include the Aqua Signature Massage, which uses a specially crafted blend of massage oils and a fusion of techniques. Also on the menu are facials, foot and head massage treatments, body massage treatments, body wraps and scrubs, Ayurvedic treatments including Snehana Abhyanga and Shirodhara and a junior massage. The spa’s product partner is Guinot.

Six Senses extends property portfolio with Turkish takeover From May, Six Senses will take over the management of the Kaplankaya resort on Turkey’s Aegean coast from Canyon Ranch. The resort, owned by Capital Partners of Turkey, features 141 suites and guestrooms in the main development, in addition to 154 private residences nearby. Erkan Erkek, chief executive of Capital Partners of Turkey, said: “We welcome Six Senses to the Aegean coast and look forward to their contribution towards the grand vision of Kaplankaya.” Kaplankaya is a mixed-use largescale development currently under construction. Six Senses currently operates 11 resorts and 29 spas in 20 countries around the world under three brands: Sixes Senses, Evason and Six Senses Spas. Intense development is set to see this property portfolio triple in the next five years. PB

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18 The month in numbers





60 40



Insider beauty Insider, our exclusive round-up of salons in the GCC. It’s the easiest way to stay in the know




Business continued on last month’s upward trajectory with average treatment room occupancy reaching 82 per cent and rebooking rates up to a healthy 83 per cent in March. Compared to this time last year, 60 per cent of salons questioned said that business is currently better. You also revealed that just 40 per cent of you turn to loyalty or membership cards to encourage repeat custom. On the treatment side, only 20 per cent of salons offer spray tanning as a means of giving clients a golden glow. Meanwhile, when it comes to retailing make-up, brow kits are by far the best seller, followed by foundation and BB cream.

On the spot


WHEN INVESTING IN A MACHINE FOR YOU SALON, WHERE DO YOU GO FOR ADVICE? 1. Tradeshows 2. Websites 3. Trade magazines 4. Friends in the industry

WHICH MAKE-UP PRODUCT IS MOST POPULAR WITH CLIENTS AT RETAIL? 1. Brow Kit 2. Foundation 3. BB cream 4. Pressed powder



OFFER A SALON MEMBERSHIP CARD Professional Beauty GCC May 2017

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19 The month in numbers





40 40 20



Insider spa Insider, our exclusive round-up of spas in the GCC. It’s the easiest way to stay in the know


MARCH 2017




Though not as buoyant as the salon market, business in the spa sector remained steady in March, with a 76 per cent treatment room occupancy and 70 per cent rebooking rate. Demand for results-driven, machine-based treatments continues to grow; yet this type of equipment can require a hefty investment. When it comes to researching the best machines, the majority of you will attend tradeshows or surf the net for information before consulting trade magazines or asking colleagues for advice. The bulk of you encourage clients to stay loyal by offering the benefits of spa membership to your customers.

On the spot


WHICH MAKE-UP PRODUCT IS MOST POPULAR WITH CLIENTS AT RETAIL? 1. BB cream 2. Foundation 3. Brow kit 4. Pressed powder

WHEN INVESTING IN A MACHINE FOR YOUR SPA, WHERE DO YOU GO FOR ADVICE? 1. Tradeshows 2. Websites 3. Trade magazines 4. Friends in the industry


OFFER SPRAY TANNING Professional Beauty GCC May 2017

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scientist view


Accessible science Following a new wave of spa treatments to tackle sleep, stress and nutritional issues, Dr Claudia Aguirre tells Eve Oxberry how therapists can keep up with the science behind wellness


r Claudia Aguirre is a US-based neuroscientist and has a specialist interest in the relationship between the brain and the skin. She is also a scientific committee member for Comfort Zone and inputted into the development of the brand’s recently launched Tranquillity Pro-Sleep Massage treatment.

What are the most interesting areas of current research for the spa and salon sector? I think the next big thing will be the gut microbiome, so how nutrient intake affects the skin, because this relationship between the brain, skin and gut is essential. I’ve been teaching this for a long time but not every product company or spa applies this research and really offers that holistic approach. If someone comes to your spa, the food you provide, if you provide food, should complement the treatment. So, if it’s a treatment to address an inflammatory condition caused by stress then you want anti-inflammatory ingredients in the products, a relaxing touch, then antiinflammatory foods – this combination is really going to have an effect. I’ve been talking about stress and skin for a long time and I think that’s reached a critical point – we’re at a

stage where we may know how to control stress but we need to focus on related areas, such as sleep.

How might research around skin and sleep impact ingredients in skincare or nutrition? More pharmaceutical-grade things could impact spas. For example, there’s research showing that applying hormones to the skin can rejuvenate it, but it’s a drug, so within this realm it’s more challenging. This is where touch comes in – a massage that’s going to help you fall asleep rather than putting something on the skin that’s actually going to physically work on your circadean rhythm. Lifestyle tips are also great; a recent paper I wrote talks about some of the lifestyle modifications that medical doctors recommend, like avoiding blue light and caffeine after 4pm, and sleeping on a specific side of the body. We’ve gone through different waves of sleep research but we’re in this new scientific era of research that is probably going to change how we work, what light bulbs we use in 10 years, the products we see in salons and, especially, consumer technology. We’re talking a lot more now about the whole experience and how to prevent sleep deprivation and chronic inflammation. Ultimately, the best way to translate these benefits to the skin is to be kind to the mind that controls the body.

What areas of sleep-related research can spas draw from? This is a really interesting area because neuroscience and spa don’t traditionally go together but the trend now is that consumers want to “de-tech” and there’s a feeling that some sort of sleep crisis is happening. We’re seeing more clinical data from people going in with sleep disorders and the rise in gadgets and procedures aimed at helping you get to sleep is huge. So, that Ú

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scientist view

Comfort Zone


catalyses the research into how this impacts what’s going on in the brain and the body to help you sleep. There are loads of areas of research but smell, hearing and touch are the primary ways spas can help to relax the body during treatment. Spas know a lot about the use of essential oils to relax, but the simple act of inhaling and exhaling deeply also plays a major role. Exhalation reduces heart rate. Inspiration is not talked about as much but a very recent paper showed what happens to the cerebral spinal fluid during inhalation. This fluid coats the brain and it’s washed down through the spine and is basically the juices of the central nervous system. During inspiration you see a flow of cerebral spinal fluid, which flushes out toxins in the brain and oxygenates it, so the process of inhalation is actually cleaning the brain. So, definitely look at how to combine breathing into a relaxation treatment. Research into sound is also interesting. A recent study from MIT [Massachusetts Institute of Technology] found that music is sent to a different part of the brain for processing than speech, and if you play music that has a tempo of 60 beats per minute – the same as a normal resting heartrate – or slower then you actually lower your heart rate. There’s also some new research looking into the specific effects of slow strokes on the back, which is showing that they can reduce anxiety, and that’s currently being used in patients undergoing chemo or other aggressive therapies, but this is very new.

Which other areas of research can spas or salons get involved in in a way that’s accessible to their clients? I think the science of touch is what they’re already doing but it’s about reframing it. If there’s a way to get at least one element of science into their conversations with clients that could shift the whole dynamic, because if you only focus on spa talk like “this is soothing and you’re going to feel really relaxed”, you’re only telling half the story. Explain how that’s going to happen with at least a little bit of science: “this is all going to help the lymphatic flow, which is connected to the immune system, which is important to maintaining your health”, for example. Always bring that knowledge into treatment.

That’s where continuing education is vital – by going to seminars and classes – because science is always changing, with research bringing new understanding about how the body works.

What would be your advice to therapists who don’t feel confident bringing up the science side of treatments? Some people worry their knowledge might not run deep enough but nobody expects you to be an expert in absolutely everything – that’s where referrals come in. If a therapist sees something on a client that might be a sign of nutritional or hormonal imbalance, they should feel confident to say “have you seen a thyroid specialist?”, for example, but they should know why. They need to know that thyroid hormones affect the skin, hair and nails. If you see someone with very dry skin, is it because they don’t have enough oils in their diet? Is it because they’re stressed? There are so many things and therapists have to play a bit of a detective game. Some love that, and to be a really successful therapist I think it’s continuing education all the way.

Where should therapists look to keep up to date with relevant research? Maybe you don’t have the time to go to a four-hour lecture but bite-sized education should be available. Even posts on Instagram; as long as its reliable it all helps. I provide some on my social channels, that’s how I save information. Therapists should seek out experts or companies that put out solid information backed by science. There is a lot of misinformation out there. For example, anyone can call themselves a health coach – you don’t need a degree, but I wouldn’t trust most of them. It comes down to expertise; look into the person’s background – are they being paid to say something or is it what they really believe? It’s not easy to find experts in this industry. I tend to look to science more than medicine because it’s more thorough and moves faster. PB

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laser and IPL


Laser quest The latest knowledge and techniques in laser treatments are ensuring greater profitability and client satisfaction, writes Fiona Vlemmiks


one are the days when laser treatments meant extreme discomfort and lengthy downtime. New technology and approaches to laser treatment mean less pain and better results for a wider variety of clients, making it a more attractive option to the market. A major advancement, which has had a big impact on our region, is the ability of lasers to work on people with darker skin types. Historically, laser treatments worked best when used on clients with pale skin and darker hair but laser manufacturers have made these steady advances towards enabling technicians to treat darker skins, by tweaking existing technology. Blended wavelength platforms, which several manufacturers unveiled last year, opened the door to laser hair removal for many who would have previously been contraindicated, such as Middle Eastern clients. The basic premise is to combine different percentages of Nd:YAG (widely recognised as the safest wavelength for darker skins) and Alexandrite (the power of which is best absorbed by hair) and deliver these into the skin simultaneously. Amira Nasser, laser and skincare specialist at Dubai Cosmetic Surgery, comments: “The days when laser for

dark skin types was considered risky or harmful are far gone. With advancements in technology, better types of laser machines are coming up which, with an experienced and qualified laser therapist, and an advanced laser machine set to the right parameters (altered energy levels), it is fairly safe to treat dark or tan skin just like we do with light skin. The procedure ends up being virtually painless. “At Dubai Cosmetic Surgery clinic, we use Nd:YAG and diode, which have advanced technology, and with the right set of parameters, can be safely used on all skin types including darker Middle Eastern tones. “They are best for targeting different types of skin, skin issues, and hair densities and colour. In addition to hair removal, they do skin rejuvenation, treatment of acne and acne scarring, skin tightening and skin brightening.”

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@mud.gcc MUD GCC

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laser and IPL

27 Sitting comfortably Clients are also now reporting improved comfort when undergoing laser treatments, compared to the pain associated with older lasers. Rebecca Treston, founder and manager of Rebecca Treston Aesthetics at Euromed Clinic Center Dubai, said: “New technology has emerged and it is available in the UAE. My clinic is usually at the forefront of introducing new laser technology to the Middle East. “We now offer conventional long-pulsed lasers and also many platforms have the ability to mix the wavelengths either in a sequential mode or simultaneously. “These platforms have been very effective for several reasons: thanks to the technology, pain is minimised and the quality of the treatment has improved because the technology can focus on two different chromophores – one being blood and one being pigment. “This has meant that we have great success in our clinic in delivering pain-free and highly effective treatments. We use the Quanta Duetto series which is a very powerful and successful laser.” “In the past, laser treatments were quite traumatic. Patients could experience a lot of swelling, and posttreatment there was a lot of heat in the tissue. Due to the fact we are in a hot country and there was heat in the tissue, this could lead to pigmentation issues. “Nowadays, however, thanks to the advancing technology, the new generation of lasers lessens swelling and pain. Furthermore, any discoloration due to inflammation is minimised. It is almost impossible for lasers to burn the skin if you know what you are doing as technology has advanced so much. In our clinic, we don’t even need EMLA cream or the cooling to be used on certain patients. I am very satisfied with the way technology has changed over the years, and I speak from

experience, having been hands-on with lasers since some of the first were introduced to the market 16 years ago.” With greater comfort levels have come less downtime for recovery. “The one reason most patients choose laser is because they don’t want to go under the knife,” says Nasser. “The advancement in laser technology has allowed laser treatments to go smooth with minimal discomfort. A few years back, we had fractional CO2 laser which had a downtime of seven to 10 days. Now we are using Nd:YAG and diode which, depending on what is being treated, has a downtime of two to three days with minimal discomforts during the treatment. “There are lasers like q-switched laser and carbon laser treatments which are very effective in skin rejuvenation with zero downtime, meaning the patient can immediately go back to his or her activities after the treatment.”

Face of the future When it comes to skin rejuvenation via laser, today’s practitioners have found it better to do several treatments on a gentler setting than one on a really aggressive setting. Nasser explains, “When it comes to skin rejuvenation via laser and the number of sessions required, it all comes down to what is being treated and the severity of the case. Different skin treatments with CO2 laser have a downtime of at least seven days, that’s why it’s considered outdated. Take laser hair removal, for instance. “Three years ago we were using IPL and an older version of diode and a person had to undergo the

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For Salon Enquiry - Tel: +971 4 3458833, Mobile: +971 55 9393364 P. O . B o x 5 7 0 3 9 , D u b a i , U n i t e d A r a b E m i r a t e s Email:, Website:

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laser and IPL


permanent reduction of hair process after at least four weeks, now with our Nd:YAG, alexandrite, and advanced diode lasers, it takes at least six to seven weeks for the hairs to grow back, although light ones. So it’s now common for people to have fewer sessions of laser treatment than they would have a few years ago.” Treston’s view mirrors this: “In terms of laser rejuvenation, it depends on the individual case. In general though, I don’t know anyone who would do a full CO2 ablative laser treatment because they come with too many complications. “Post CO2 ablative laser treatment, you have an open wound for two weeks which could be prone to infections, the patient can be red for up to six months and they can lose pigment - people just don’t have that downtime. “In my experience, in Dubai people want to look good and improve their skin and they don’t mind spending the money but they don’t want the downtime. “This means that there is a real trend towards choosing treatments such as the Fotona laser. It is brilliant because

we can use different energies and different wavelengths to create coagulation at the deeper layers with a nonablative laser and then only need to resurface the upper layer, which means the treatment has minimal downtime. I prefer to do more sessions with a laser such as Fotona rather than one session with a CO2 ablative laser and this has stemmed from my patients’ preferences.” It’s clear that laser treatment has come a long way. In 2017, the potential for further developments in laser and what it can achieve is promising, so communicating this newfound knowledge to clients is key to the success of any clinic or medispa offering the treatment. PB

THE EXPERTS Rebecca Treston founder and manager of the successful Rebecca Treston Aesthetics at Euromed Clinic Center Dubai

Amira Nasser laser and skincare specialist at the renowned Dubai Cosmetic Surgery clinic

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business tips


Ask the experts Our experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business

What support should a salon receive from a brand that they stock?


s a distributor, supporting your salon partner should come at the very top of your priority list. Whether you are providing them with high-end tools or hair and beauty products, your role should be not only to enhance both the stylist and the clients’ journeys, but also to educate them. As a hair tool provider, we take it as our responsibility to keep our salon partners up to date with the latest trends and hairstyles so they can stay at the top of their game. To do this, we organise a variety of workshops that are tailored to their needs, which in turn will guarantee they are meeting, if not exceeding, customer satisfaction levels. In addition to creative support, consider how you can help the salon grow as a business. Last year, we decided to take the client support one step further by reaching out to our salon partners differently. Instead of targeting the hairstylist, we are now targeting the management. This is how, in collaboration with the inspiring beauty industry business consultant Susie Santiago, the EIDEAL-Santi Buisness Leadership Program came to life. We also take our virtual support really seriously. Our phone is our best friend and many stylists are very tech-

savvy and use social media channels, particularly Instagram and Snapchat on a daily basis. Thanks to the rise of social media, anyone can check out a trendy hairstyle or a beauty tutorial with the click of a button, but not all salon owners have an in-depth understanding of how to easily access essential knowledge and micro trends, something that in today’s world could make (or break) a business. This is where I feel we really come into our own. We endeavor to provide support to our salon partners through the rapidly growing medium of social media. I am so proud that our channels are seen to be a great resource by our salon partners and often receive very positive feedback. We carefully keep an eye on the latest events and trends which we then bring to life through our online platforms. Our salon partners also benefit from our online tutorials which we upload constantly onto our channels. This “quick fix”, as they like to call it, allows them to become confident in how to use our tools to create the most on-trend, talked-about styles. Haysam Eid is a renowned hairdresser and managing director of the successful range of EIDEAL hair tools.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to

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business tips


When I’m not at the salon, my team doesn’t cross-sell or push re-bookings. How can I change this?


t’s essential that your staff members understand the value and benefit of re-booking clients, especially as a good re-booking structure can eliminate white space in your columns and increase retention rates. You need to implement a “re-booking procedure” for staff to follow, with a register at reception where they tick all their re-bookings at the end of each day. Make the process fun by having a monthly incentive for the therapist who gets the most. Other good commission ideas include setting individual monthly targets for treatments and retail sales and rewarding staff with some form of financial incentive – either a voucher, monthly bonus or free products. You could even pay your therapists a percentage of the revenue they generate instead of a flat hourly rate. It’s a real incentive because the team members will soon realise they could earn far more if they keep revenue high and use walk-in clients to boost sales. A commission structure will not only inspire the team to

earn significantly more but will also hammer home the message that the salon has to run the same way whether you’re there or not. Staff members are responsible for the business succeeding as much as you are. At Utopia, a focus on cross-selling has resulted in an increase in retail sales as well as clients wanting to try recommended treatments. I’ve learned that crossselling is not just about sales but about building up your therapists’ confidence in introducing clients to new treatments and products. Make sure you spend time with the team so they feel confident in their abilities. Stefania Rossi is director of Utopia Beauty & Advanced Skincare in the UK. She was awarded the Professional Beauty Employer of the Year in 2016 and recently inspired audiences as a speaker at Professional Beauty GCC’s Beauty Conference in February.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to

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business tips


How can I make sure clients get the most out of their lash appointments?


What can I do to prevent my staff from burning out?


herapist burn-out is a real problem in our industry. It usually means their passion for the job is gone and when that eagerness is missing it’s very difficult for therapists to treat clients well and provide that much-needed “wow” factor. We often underestimate how much burn-out can negatively affect the quality of the treatment delivery, and this goes much deeper than merely dealing with a therapist who looks unhappy on the salon or spa floor. As a manager, you can help therapists recreate that original passion by connecting them with the deeper reasons for choosing the profession in the first place and putting measures in place to prevent burn-out. For example, if staff members are facing several massages in a shift, tell them it’s important to stretch their body at the start of the day – like any athlete or dancer would do before an event – because their muscles and joints need to align and warm up. However, they need to stretch between treatments as well, to further prevent burn-out, simple fullbody or side-bend stretches will do. There is also a need for mental preparation. Just five minutes of meditation in the treatment room before a shift will make a huge difference to how your staff feel. Breathing exercises and visualisation techniques can make all the difference between a good and a bad day. Lastly, ask your therapists to conclude the day by reflecting for just a few minutes on what they’ve learned and what needs to be improved. These simple but effective techniques will make all the difference. Beata Aleksandrowicz is a therapist, healer and co-founder of the Pure Massage Spa Training Method.

o ensure that clients walk away happy and are hooked on enhancements you need to think about how you can make the experience as enjoyable as possible. Consultation is key to ensuring you understand clients’ expectations and what you can do to help them achieve their dream lashes. You also need to use products from reputable companies because cheaper options will have an impact on the result and condition of lashes, which will immediately put clients off returning. Choosing the appropriate lash treatment for the client is the most important way of avoiding disappointment. There’s a wide range of lashes in the industry, which can be daunting for clients, so use your professional opinion to guide them to the right choice. Important questions to ask include “are the lashes for a special occasion or longterm wear”? and “are your natural lashes in good condition”? Also, don’t forget to make the client comfortable during treatment. Cover them in a blanket for warmth in the winter months, which will help them relax, and use a pillow, cushion or travel neck pillow to support their head. A knee bolster will also ease pressure on their back. Aftercare advice is equally essential to ensure clients maximise the results of the treatment. Advise your clients about retail products that will boost the condition, longevity and appearance of their lash extensions. Clare Stephens is head of training for the Eyelash Design Company, the home of Lash Perfect and Lash FX, and works with national and international customers to maintain the quality of training worldwide.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to

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NOT ANOTHER SALON British star stylist Sophia Hilton wowed Middle Easter audiences when she appeared on our HJ Stage thanks to Gloss Academy in Dubai in February. We caught up with her and learned how social media has helped her build her brand


efore Sophia Hilton opened her innovative Not Another Salon, the industry was already aware of her, not least because of her striking sense of personal style and her high profile on Instagram. But Hilton has proved she is about far more than a colourful image. Every element of her London salon is based on both an empathy for those that are unconventional, and the sound business acumen that won her two gongs at HJ’s 2016 British Hairdressing Business Awards. Talking of her original vision for the salon, which opened in October 2015, Hilton says: “I just wanted to walk into work every morning in a place that makes me happy, so I created a bubble, my very own ‘safe place’. Not Another Salon allowed me to create a safe environment for all other ‘misfits’. It is this “no judgement policy” which Hilton believes is the brand’s real USP. “Yes, of course it’s our aesthetic that grabs attention, but it’s our values that hold them there,” she says. “The emphasis is put on being accepting and kind, not cool.” Perhaps one of the reasons the salon has acquired the “cool” tag is the way Hilton has built brand awareness through social media, although she is quick to stress that social media will only work if the brand itself is right in the first place.

Building a profile “Social media was really important, but I think what’s forgotten is that it is just a platform to show all the other elements of your company,” she says. “Essentially, it’s my branding that’s strong, not my social media.” When it comes to building profiles – both of the business and of herself and her team members – social media has proved an incredibly successful platform, however. Says Hilton: “I always wanted to make my staff known as individuals, to allow my

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efforts in the business to propel their personal reputations. Through the constant tagging on our @notanothersalon Instagram account, and her great quality work, my team member Harriet, at only 21, has quadrupled her following since joining me. In fact, in about two weeks she will have surpassed the following for my own personal account. I’m very comfortable when a young person in my team rises over me; I see it as a personal achievement. I have enabled her to show the world what she can do. It’s awesome; she’s awesome.”

Dedication And despite all her other commitments, Hilton still dedicates a huge amount of time to social media. “I have to remain obsessed,” she says. “When my interest comes down, so does the growth of my following. That’s easy to see with my personal account. When I focused on it a couple of years ago, it tripled in six months. When I took on the business and I turned my focus on that, my personal account stood still. The Not Another Salon page rose from nothing to 122,000 in 14 months - why? Because I obsessed about it, morning to night.

HILTON’S STAR TIPS FOR SOCIAL MEDIA • Keep full control of your own social media – create a genuine voice not a corporate monotone. • Commit to what you find personally interesting – I planned the salons Instagram a year in advance and noticed my personal Instagram came to a standstill; where my interest lies is where growth will happen. • Remember, social media is a shop front for your brand – your brand has to be unique and exciting, not just the way you promote it. • Make sure your social media represents your core brand values – aesthetics grab attention but heart is what keeps them.

“I have never let anyone else post on our accounts and I have no intention of ever letting a company do this for me. I’m dyslexic so sometimes it has so many typos that it looks like I type with my toes. But at least it’s real. People want to hear a real voice, warts and all, not a dull company saying the same rubbish they have heard before.”

Commitment And in return for this kind of commitment from her team, Hilton believes in repaying them with education. “Predominantly, I’m an educator, so I look at it like this: I would be so upset if anyone were to leave my company and say that I failed them educationally. How could I possibly stand on stage as a teacher and hold a reputation if there is anyone within my own four walls that is not being developed properly? Every single person, no matter how young or old, is going through a personal education programme; it’s simply not an option to stand still. You don’t come to work for me unless you are committed to self-development.” Hilton extends this passion for education beyond her own team, with the launch of Not Another Academy. Says Hilton: “The academy has exploded and we have remained fully booked three months in advance for almost a year. The looks we have created have caused a lot of attention in such a short amount of time and we have been written about by journalists all over the world claiming we are pushing a change in trends. But what’s the point if it’s just us? “Is it cooler to have a company that is unique? Or is it cooler to have a company that helps hundreds of companies become unique?” PB

After the success of the Sophia Hilton workshops which took place at Gloss Academy Dubai in February, Sophia’s workshops will be returning to Gloss from May 2017. To register for a place please contact the academy 03 321 6588

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KISS FRIZZY HAIR GOOD-BYE AND WIN BACK CONTROL The Kerasilk Keratin Treatment Service provides long-lasting transformation into perfectly smooth and soft hair for up to 3–5 months. The secret: high-performing KeraShape Technology. Simply fabulous!


Interviews and images from the best in the industry Note from the Editor


ne of the great things about the hairdressing industry is the sharing of cutting, colouring and styling techniques as well as success stories. Top hairdresser Robert Lobetta once said: “If you never make a mistake, you aren’t working hard enough”. And learning from our mistakes, as well as our successes, keeps us one step ahead of the competition. From great customer service and team motivation, to the latest trends and techniques, we have it covered in this issue, as we bring you interviews and images from some of the best in the industry. Sophia Hilton is one to watch and shares the

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ups and downs of her journey so far, while social media sensation Jen Atkin talks about the looks your clients will be asking for in the coming months. Hope you enjoy this issue, we’ll see you next month. Thanks,

May 2017


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Linea Modern lines for a futuristic collection

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May 2017


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C - WHITE A line of cosmetics developed to reduce discoloration and signs of skin aging. The innovative form of vitamin C used in the formulas ensures the potency of the high concentrations of pure Vitamin C while limiting the risk of irritation. The benefits of using the C-White line:





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See our iPad edition for inspiring extras

Hair: Gary Baker for Unite Assisted by Natasha Pearson and Narad Kutowaroo Colour: Gary Baker and Michelle Kelly Burke Make-up: Jenny Morrell Styling: Francesca Capper Photographs: Roberto Aguilar

“A clean use of lines and silhouettes create a strong, precise collection of haircuts and styles to complement the clothing and make-up. We were inspired by classic shapes with a modern interpretation.� Gary Baker

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May 2017


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Innocence A partnership of dishevelled silhouettes, invisible disconnection and erratic textures


May 2017

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“Drawing inspiration from Italian Vogue and fashion photographer Marta Bevacqua our collection captures the unity of innocence and sensuality. Blondes are pure and neutral with hues of wheat, almond and porcelain.� Colin Greaney

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Hair: Mahogany creative team, London and Oxford Make-up: Marco Antonio Styling: Ina Lekiewicz Photographs: Nessi


May 2017

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Get the look

Organically colourful Use colour to enhance the cut



∞ Take a triangle section at the front of the hair to the sides of the eyebrows and prelighten using Naturlite White Lightening Powder and 6% Cream Activator. ∞ Apply all-over colour to the rest of the hair, using No Limits Chestnut Semi-Permanent Colour. ∞ Leave to process, then rinse and shampoo the prelightened section, and rinse only the rest of the hair. ∞ On the prelightened section, apply the chosen colours section by section. Colours used were four pumps of No Limits Violet mixed with one tsp PowerBuild Treatment; one pump of No Limits Blue mixed with one tsp PowerBuild Treatment; two pumps of No Limits Red mixed with one scoop PowerBuild Treatment. ∞ Process, then rinse only, condition and leave for five minutes. ∞ To style, blow-dry smooth.

∞ Carry out the wet stretch test on the hair and treat accordingly. ∞ Apply all over colour using formula: 40ml 6GD dark gold blonde, 40ml 6CR dark copper blonde, 5ml Violet Concentrate, 3% Liquid Activator. ∞ Working on the under section, take 1cm sections and apply Naturlite White Lightening Powder mixed with 6% Cream Activator over the mid-lengths and ends. ∞ Repeat, working to the top layer, process and rinse. ∞ To style, apply Keep Curl Memory Spray and Root-Lift, and blow-dry. Then tong sections around the face.

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Hair: Karine Jackson for Organic Colour Systems

Tie Dye

Colour Blocking

∞ Carry out the wet stretch test on the hair and treat accordingly. ∞ Apply all over colour using formula: 6TO dark toffee blonde, 6% Liquid Activator. ∞ Working on large sections, twist hair and band along the mid-lengths and ends. ∞ Apply Naturlite White Lightening Powder mixed with 9% Cream Activator to banded sections only and work with fingers. ∞ Leave to process, checking every 10 minutes, then shampoo and leave conditioner for five minutes. ∞ Apply Keep Curl Memory Gel and Argan Oil Gloss, then blow-dry with a large barrel brush.

∞ Take an undersection of hair and prelighten with Naturlite White Lightening Powder mixed with 9% Cream Activator. ∞ Leave to process, then paint the prelightened section with No Limits Yellow Semi-Permanent Colour. ∞ Leave to process, then rinse only and condition for five minutes. ∞ Apply Root Lift and Thermal 2 Twenty and blow-dry smooth.

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Trends anywhere anytime soon. I’ve always loved that natural bend in the hair or colour that looks slightly grown out as it can really give off that cool girl vibe, a girl who’s not trying too hard and celebrates her natural beauty. It’s a look most of my clients want to achieve. What are your top tips for transitioning clients styles between seasons? Depending on the hair type it could be fun to cut a fringe or add some hair extensions to change the style between seasons. This is a great way to make a change that isn’t too drastic and doesn’t involve cutting off a lot of hair. What are your top tips and favourite products to prep hair for the new season? Using the right kind of shampoo and conditioner is very important in keeping hair healthy. You want to make sure you’re not recommending anything too heavy for finer hair or something too drying for damaged hair. Also, make sure your hair tools are up to date and set to the correct temperature for the hair type to prevent damage.

Jen Atkin talks trends


ith 2017 in full swing we caught up with Jen Atkin, stylist to the stars and the brains behind haircare brand, Ouai Haircare, to see what trends she’ll be going after in 2017. You work with some of the biggest celebrities in the industry, what do you think will be the biggest styling trend for 2017? I think long, gorgeous, one length hair will be making a comeback in 2017. Girls will be growing out their lobs and adding extensions for length and thickness to get that long, beautiful, glossy hair. Colour and cuts have been all about lived-in, wearable styles, do you think this will change in 2017? I don’t see lived-in, wearable colour and cuts going

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What tips would you give to clients with shorter styles who want a change? Extensions are a great way to add any amount of length or thickness to hair without having to wait for those short, awkward layers to grow out. The Beauty Works Tape In Extensions are a really easy, harmless way to add length, while allowing clients’ real hair to continue to grow at the same time. SWAN GALLET/WWD/REX/SHUTTERSTOCK

Celebrity style

What are some of your favourite techniques to use on celebrity clients? I love showing all of my clients how to get the look on their own hair at home, so they get the most out of their style between appointments. Educating them on how to use hot tools correctly is hugely important to enable longevity of the style I’ve created.

You’ve had an incredible year in 2016, what’s in store for Jen Atkin in 2017? Ouai Haircare is launching some great products and Mane Addicts have some amazing things planned for education and hairstylists, so definitely watch this space.

“I think long, one length hair will be making a comeback in 2017.” Jen Atkin

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hair opinion


Good call

Maria Dowling explains how to conduct the perfect telephone conversation with your client


elephone etiquette is something that, done right, can give an amazing impression of your business, right from the word go. Yet if it’s done wrong, you can lose a customer even before she sets foot through your door. I always use these seven points when we’re training the front-desk team:

1 Listen to your customer

Paying attention to what the caller is saying is essential. Listen first and identify the key points the caller is making. Let’s face it, sometimes the salon can be noisy so if you can’t hear properly, inform the customer that you’re having trouble hearing and that you will go to a quieter area before returning to the call.


Avoid putting the caller on hold

Personally, I hate being put on hold, especially when it feels like you’ve been waiting forever! Nevertheless, sometimes it’s inevitable and you must put the caller on hold to check something or consult a colleague. Always ask if you can place the client on hold before doing it or offer to call them back if they would rather not hold.

3 Managing more than one caller

We’ve all been there – you’ve got a chatty client on the line but another call coming through. The important thing is to always retain control of the call and if the purpose is to book her a date and time for her appointment then stick to that. While it’s important to chat and be pleasant, it’s also your job to be able to answer other calls.

4 Use a Caller ID

Good salons should know who they’re talking to, and greeting your caller by name makes a world of

difference. This kind of VIP treatment creates customer loyalty. There’s nothing worse than having to give your name and contact details to a salon that you have been going to for years.

5 Smile, smile, smile

I always tell my team that if you smile on the phone, you sound happier and this is contagious! Your voice sounds positive and, well, nicer. Remember that the tone should be natural, not robotic. Helpful and empathetic but not sarcastic. And if you are nicer on the phone, regardless of the outcome for the client, they walk away knowing you have done everything you can to help them.

6 Let your personality shine through

While I’m a great believer in following company guidelines, I don’t endorse having a scripted telephone manner. I prefer my front-desk team members to put their personality into their telephone conversations, as there’s nothing worse than someone who sounds like a computer! Practise the script as much as you can so you’re comfortable with it and able to put your own personality into it without thinking.

7 Keep them calm

While we all try to keep the complaints to a minimum, there will inevitably be a client gripe or two. The way to deal with it is to simply listen and let the customer tell you as much as possible about their issue. Try to help as much as you can and if you can’t, then speak to their stylist or the management. If there are no appointments, we can’t clear the book but we can suggest the client goes on a waiting list and keep them updated. PB

Maria Dowling is creative director at mariadowling salon and has been a colourist for more than 20 years. For more information call: +971 4 345 4225

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golden Rules Our industry experts reveal the hottest tanning trends for the year ahead and how you can work them into your treatment menu JAMES READ is a leading spray tanner whose celebrity clients include model Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, singer Ellie Goulding and actress Lily James. He also has his own product line, which is popular in the Middle East


or many clients, tanning is now an essential part of their beauty routine, guaranteed to give that “feel-good” factor. But just like hair, make-up and nails, tanning looks can change seasonally, meaning your treatment menu could fast become out of date. For example, tantouring – the contouring trick that uses self-tan alone to sculpt and define the face – was a major beauty buzzword last year and turned out to be a great “add-on” treatment for salons. But which looks are set to be big this year? We quizzed two experts about the trends and products shaking up the market, plus the golden rules for working them into your treatment menu.

RUTH O’CONNELL brought the popular TanOrganic brand to the Middle East. Now available at the popular Pastels Salon chain, Ruth is busy spreading awareness of organic brand.

Ruth O’Connell: The number-one trend for tanning is organic. A huge number of beauty products in the UAE say that they are organic, but very few are certified organic. Tan Organic is the only professional tanning treatment that is eco-certified by Ecocert.

What will be the top tanning trends this year? James Read: Tanning is also becoming something that clients can adapt into their active lifestyles, so lots of quick and easy on-the-go products will emerge, which incorporate seamlessly into people’s regimes. It’s about the “time factor”, with express products coming to the fore.

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59 What looks do you think have fallen out of favour? Read: Tanning has changed a lot in the past 12 months. Last year, brands were bringing out really dark tans but people are stepping away from that now, wanting a more natural-looking colour. Just look at celebrities, it’s less about looking tanned and more about looking glowing. O’Connell: The “fake tan look” is gone. Nobody wants to look like they have just had a spray tan; it’s exaggerated and over done. When you wear fake tan nobody should know. It should be just a shade darker than your natural self. The natural golden sun-kissed look is very now. Everywhere you look in the beauty world, whether it be make-up or tanning, it is all about having that beautiful glow. Fresh skin that is natural and glowing is key for 2017.

O’Connell: I think the market for tanning in the Middle East and the UAE is only just beginning. A lot of salons are becoming aware of the huge and growing market for selftanning and spray tanning products. Consumers are so much more aware of the damage the sun does to your skin but still want that golden glow so the best and safest way to achieve this is with the help of self tan or a spray tan. TanOrganic has two shades of tan in the range a lighter one called Caramel and a darker one for the more olive skin tones called Chocolate.

What innovations are launching that will shake up the market?

treatment that will leave your skin tanned and feeling like silk at the same time. It has zero transfer as it goes onto the skin translucent and will leave no residue on clothes or sheets. It is a pure hydration treatment for the skin and it is also a dry oil so will not leave an oily residue on the skin. It will be absorbed immediately, giving the most beautiful natural tan. TanOrganic has also just launched a new selftan mousse, with easy application and that lovely light feeling of a mousse. It is suitable for all skin tones.

How can salon owners use these trends to their advantage? Read: It’s about making tanning more of an experience than a necessity. People always want a perfect-looking tan on their face but it’s the place on the body where colour tends to fade first. That’s why I’m launching a tanning facial to the market this year – the James Read Self-Tan Facial. All products used in the 60-minute treatment will be designed around prepping the skin for tan, so an exfoliant peel to remove dead skin and old fake tan, a cooling mask to close open pores, facial massage to encourage relaxation and a customised tan with SPF to give instant colour. With tanning, you need to think outside of the box. O’Connell: A large number of salons offer Moroccan baths and full-body exfoliation treatments and a self-tan could be a really great add-on to this, as the skin is exfoliated and perfectly primed for a tan. The Silk oil professional product can be massaged onto the skin as a hydrating treatment, which will give the client a beautiful tan. There is no need to wash the tan off, and the client can dress immediately with a promise of zero transfer onto clothes. PB

New Look

Read: Wash-off tans that give that glossy reflectiveness to the skin will be popular as the luxe skin trend takes off, but products containing coconut balm will also launch. Consumers were using it for everything last year – hair, skin, cooking – and it’s these kind of ingredients that’ll help change consumer perceptions of tanning. In March, I launched Melting Coconut Tanning Balm – a gradual tan that sits in the fridge as a solid but melts as soon as you put it on your skin, leaving a finish that’s reflective but also hydrating thanks to the raw coconut. I’ve used a special oil-based DHA in the formula instead of water-based DHAs because they caused the coconut balm to break when mixed with it. O’Connell: “Silk” by TanOrganic, soon to be launched here in the UAE, is a luxurious body


Do you notice differences in tanning trends regionally?

Professional Beauty GCC May 2017

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FRESH GLOW We explore the most innovative launches in professional and at-home tanning to help clients achieve an on-trend glow TanOrganic The Eco-certified self-tanning brand is made wholly from natural and organic ingredients. TanOrganic’s all natural formula contains no perfumes or fragrances and offers a fuss-free application. The oil is applied like any other body oil and is quick drying with no transfer onto clothes as the oil is absorbed very quickly. Call TanOrganic +971 55 2946992

James Read

Vita Liberata Body Blur A skin-finishing product designed to have a blurring effect on the body and create “HD” skin. It’s available in shades Latte Light, Honey Beige and Mocha and contains vitamin E, aloe vera and shea butter, plus light-reflective particles to minimise blemishes. Call Vita Liberata +971 52 921 6086

Sleep Mask Tan for the face treats skin while the wearer sleeps and is enriched with skin-beautifying ingredients to deliver a subtle, golden glow by morning. The tan is fast drying and has a colourless formula that protects clothing and bed linen. The tan can be used daily to build up a light, sun-kissed colour and is fragrance free and infused with aloe vera, hyaluronic acid and algae extract to leave skin hydrated and moisturised. The tan is long lasting and fades evenly. Call James Read Middle East +971 50 409 3837

Professional Beauty GCC May 2017

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tried and tested


Dual action This month we try a micro-needling treatment, Russian layering lash extensions and a chemical peel Aspect Dr, Lactobotanical Chemical Peel The lowdown Aspect Dr is an Australian-owned skincare company that formulate clinical skincare products and peels tailored to support the skin and address a wide range of skin conditions and concerns. Newly launched in the UAE, Aspect Dr is a new direction in active, clinical-grade skincare, formulated to include gold-standard ingredients with proven anti-ageing qualities but with no trauma or downtime caused by the inclusion of irritant, toxic or harmful ingredients. PB says The launch of Aspect Dr caused huge excitement in the Professional Beauty office – we’d heard great things from our friends in the UK about this active skincare line, so that we were super excited when we were invited to review a chemical peel. Being a sun worshipper, pigmentation has become my best friend. Although not hugely visible, I’ve been told by dermatologists to keep my face out of the sun in order to not cause any further damage. Marina Magdalini, head trainer for Aspect Dr, reviewed my skin and advised that there was clear pigmentation, un-even skin tone and dryness – all as a result of the UAE sun. Because of this, Marina suggested that I try the Lactobotanical Chemical Peel which contains lactic acid. The lactic acid is an Alpha-Hydroxy Acid (AHA) derived from milk, which is combined with Canadian Willowherb (an anti-inflammatory). As a result of these ingredients, the peel has minimal downtime for recovery. The combination of these ingredients targets the epidermis, breaking down the glue that holds the skin cells together. This enables a faster cell turn-over, resulting in a more youthful appearance to the skin as the healthier layers are brought to the surface, quicker. Marina tells me that this particular peel comes in a variety of different strengths, starting from 20% and increasing to 30% to 40% and finally 60%. We begin with the 20%-strength peel and I’m told this will increase every two weeks. The treatment begins with a deep cleanse using Aspect Dr’s foam cleanser. 3ml of the 20% lactobotanical peel is then dispensed and is placed all over my face and neck.

At this stage, you feel a slight tingling feeling – which I always love as it proves the peel is working its magic! This is left on for between one and five minutes, depending on how your skin reacts. This is then followed by a Neutralizer – to calm down the redness. Once she’d rinsed my skin, Marina applied a light veil of Multi B Plus Serum, an antioxidant serum that brightens, lightens, firms and reduces pigment, sun spots and sun damage. For the final step, Marina placed Hydra Shield – a lightweight superhydrating moisturiser which contains SPF15. After three sessions of the Lactobotanical peel I am absolutely amazed by the difference. My skin tone has completely evened out, and the pigmentation areas are slowly reducing, my skin feels rejuvenated and is glowing – I was lucky enough to be given a home kit to help maintain the treatment. I wholeheartedly swear by the Aspect Dr products – the active ingredients contained within each project certainly make a huge difference. Business benefits This chemical peel can be done in a lunch break, and with absolutely no downtime you can target this treatment to busy workaholics who want to make a difference to their skin, but have a limited timeframe to do it. The results are also transforming, which is a great hook to get repeated customers coming back for more and more.

Professional Beauty GCC May 2017

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tried and tested

65 Micro-needling with Skin Needler by Reviderm at Specialized Beauty Russian Layering Lash Extensions by Lash Perfect at Sister’s Beauty Lounge The lowdown The Russian layering technique originated in Russia and has become a huge hit in the US, Europe and now UAE. The multi-lash technique involves adhering synthetic, ultra-fine lashes onto a single natural lash. The main benefit of Russian Layering is that it gives clients a full, high-impact glamourous look with maximum natural-looking volume. PB says I was very excited to try out Russian Layering, more so because it coincided with my wedding day – a perfect excuse to have long, luscious lashes! I visited the brand new Sister’s Beauty Lounge in Jumeirah Beach Residences on the day I flew back to the UK to get married. Nadia Nacerodien – head educator at Lash Perfect, advised that it’s best to get the extensions done as close to the day as possible to ensure maximum effect. During the consultation, we went through my overall desired look. I mentioned that when I wear mascara, I wear it extra thick – I like the dark, smoky look. The therapist, decided to use B&C curl lashes in 9mm, 10mm and 11mm to give that all-over natural volume. The therapist cleaned and prepared my natural lashes and placed a cooling gel patch under each eye. The whole process took around two hours, which might seem a long time but if you’re a chatterbox like me, it seems no time at all. When the time came for the big reveal, I was absolutely in love with my new lashes. They were thick and voluminous, but still looked natural – the time carefully spent applying each ultra-fine lash was completely worth it. I was advised to avoid making contact with water for the next 24 hours while my lashes set, but if needed, I could use googles to prevent my lashes getting wet. A home kit is also advised for clients to purchase which includes oil free make-up remover and a Lash Perfect mascara, which helps keep lashes maintained for longer. Business benefits The extensions used are 100% synthetic, and differ from regular extensions as they are much finer, meaning minimal damage to your eyelashes – a perfect addition to your treatment menu should your clients want extensions but worry about the effect it has on your natural lashes.

The lowdown Micro-needling has long been considered the secret weapon among anti-ageing methods – a treatment which uses micro-fine needles which perforate the skin with pinpoint precision, creating small, targeted micro-injuries that initiate the skin’s own healing process. The Reviderm SkinNeedler is a brand new treatment brought to the UAE by distributor Specialized Beauty. PB says Specialized Beauty’s stand at the Professional Beauty exhibition in February was jam-packed from start to finish, so I was very excited when I was asked to visit its head office in Dubai to review its brand new Reviderm SkinNeedler treatment. I’d never had a micro-needling treatment before, and was a little wary of the effect it would have on my skin but as soon as I met Margaret Stobieniecka, the specialist for Reviderm, I was quickly put at ease. The Reviderm SkinNeedler looks like a miniature paint roller, except it’s covered in ten needles allowing further penetration in to my skin. I was told that the tiny needles are used to create micro channels in the skin, stimulating its natural ability to heal itself and also produce collagen and elastin. When rolled over my skin, the needler does two things. First, it allows for better penetration, allowing the serum to reach deeper into the skin. Second, it creates micro-injuries, which tell your brain to kick into repair mode. This prompts your body to send collagen to the epidermis, which is an important building block of healthy, radiant skin. The treatment began with a foam cleanser. Once she had rinsed that off, Margaret applied a contour lift formula from a single-dose ampoule to moisten my forehead. She immediately started to perform the micro-needling treatment on the moistened skin before the formula absorbed. One section at a time was treated by working downwards from the forehead towards my neck. Once the treatment was completed, I couldn’t believe the immediate effects it had on my skin – it looked fresh, plumped and rejuvenated and the small wrinkles that I had on my forehead were less obvious. Business benefits If your clients are after a more results-driven, anti-aging treatment than a classic facial, then you should consider adding this to your treatment menu. It is recommended that clients complete a course of six treatments within three months to get the best results. With this in mind, your customer is instantly retained – and you will especially have them hooked after the first treatment! PB

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product news

66 Jane Iredale The mineral make-up brand has launched Pure and Simple Make-up Kit, a collection of base, eye and lip products in a travel-sized palette. There are four colourways – light, medium and dark – and each contains two shades of Pure Pressed Base, Pure Pressed Blush in either Copper Wind, Sheer Honey, Mocha or Dubonnet, two Pure Pressed Eyeshadows in Oyster and Supernova, and Lip and Cheek Stain in either Forever Pink or Peach. BEST FOR: NATURAL COVERAGE Call Healthcare Group +971 4 447 7636

There’s an influx of advanced skincare this month that promises to firm, sculpt and tighten without the need for invasive procedures




Elemis’s new Pro-Definition Facial Oil is billed as “your skin’s strength in a bottle”. With the scent of clary sage, palmarosa and frankincense, the key ingredient is raspberry plant stem cell extract, which contains lipids, carotenoids and phenolic acids to protect and moisturise the skin. The oil also features the essential fatty acids and vitamin E-filled organic barbary fig oil to nurture and shield against free radicals, and the herb Himalayan gentian extract to smooth and hydrate. BEST FOR: DEHYDRATION Call Spa Resources +971 4 324 5414

H.A. Intensifier is a corrective serum that promises to boost skin’s hyaluronic acid levels by 30 per cent. It uses “multimodal technology” to enhance natural hyaluronic acid synthesis and prevent against premature degradation, fortifying firmness and plumpness while delivering surface hydration. The serum also contains 10 per cent proxylane to help maintain the structure and function of vital skin components. BEST FOR: PLUMPING Call Loréal +971 4 8064700

Professional Beauty GCC May 2017

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product news

67 Skeyndor The Timeless Prodigy anti-ageing range from Skeyndor uses three key ingredient complexes. Cell genesis activator is made from French damask rose stem cells to soften the appearance of wrinkles and stimulate cell regeneration; cell quality perfector has white truffle extract to help increase cell life expectancy by a third; and cell functionality enhancer evens skin texture. There are two products in the range: The Serum and The Cream. BEST FOR: WRINKLES Call Madi: +971 4 338 27 73

Leighton Denny Expert Nails


Time Repair is a collection of three new products to help combat signs of ageing on the hands and nails. Nail Elixir targets ridges in nails that lack moisture and it contains collagen and chrono-peptides to strengthen and hydrate. Anti-ageing Miracle Oil is a blend of rosehip and olive oils and vitamin A to nourish hands, and Anti-ageing Hand Therapy SPF 15 contains shea butter and hyaluronic acid. BEST FOR: AGEING HANDS Call Amaya +971 4 605 8516

Pevonia The Collagen Boost collection from Pevonia’s Spa Care for Him range includes two products formulated to have an anti-ageing effect. Face Balm contains palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl tetrapeptides-7 to help regenerate skin, while marine collagen and elastin plump it. Eye Contour uses a time-release delivery system with hyaluronic acid for intense hydration with a wrinkle smoothing effect. BEST FOR: MEN Call MonarQi Beauty +971 4 406 50 00

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Project9_Layout 1 15/03/2017 16:10 Page 1

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Diary dates MAY 6-9 INTERNATIONAL BEAUTY EXPO Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre, Malaysia Catering to beauty, hair and cosmetics, nail and spa professionals, this show offers exhibitors and visitors access to the latest tools, equipment, products, services and brands, alongside a multitude of networking opportunities. MAY 7-8 THE MAKEUP SHOW NYC Metropolitan Pavilion, New York City, USA The event is dedicated to make-up professionals who are looking to discover the latest products and tools, and to participate in hands on workshops and seminars. MAY 14-16 BEAUTYWORLD MIDDLE EAST Dubai World Trade Centre, Dubai, UAE A trade fair for the beauty, hair, fragrance and wellbeing sectors, this event brings together exhibitors from more than 52 countries. The event also includes hair shows and nail competitions.

MAY 19-21 IMATS 2017 Olympia, London The International Make-Up Artist Trade Show will host brands, catwalks and student competitions. MAY 23-25 FCE COSMETIQUE Sao Paulo Expo, Sao Paulo Brazil Specialising in the cosmetics sector, this exhibition is designed for cosmetic suppliers, distributors and resellers.

Don’t miss... JUNE 11 PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BELFAST Belfast Waterfront The Northern Ireland edition of the event has a strong networking focus and will host beauty exhibitors and seminars.

MAY 21-22 PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY DURBAN Greyville Convention Centre, Durban, South Africa Professional Beauty Durban presents you with the ultimate platform to conduct business, network, and source suppliers. It has something to offer each health and beauty professional, showcasing the latest product launches, innovations and developments from across the globe – all under one roof

SEND US YOUR DATES Send us details of any events you are planning via email to Ú

Gloss Academy Courses starting May 2017 City & Guilds Hairdressing Courses May 7th to August 17th Level 2 Diploma May 21st to 25th Level 2 Award in Dressing Hair May 7th to August 31st Level 3 Diploma May 21st to 25th Level 3 Award in Bridal Hair

SERVICES OFFERED Protein • Blowdry • Keratin & Botox Bridal Services • Manicure and Pedicure Hair Style • Chinese Massage & Spa

Gloss Global Courses May 2nd Column Coaching — FREE SEMINAR Eryca Freemantle Make up Professional Master Classes Bridal Makeup Red Carpet & Etiquette Lights Camera Action Starting out as a Professional Makeup Artist How to Grow Your Makeup Business

Visit Us: Al Wasl Road Um Al Sheif Dubai, UAE Tel: +971 50 757 7343/ +971 4 3791293 Email us: Follow us: @baraviabeauty/ baraviabeauty

For more information and bookings please contact us on: +971 4 321 6588 Villa 869, Al Wasl Road, Al Safa 2, Jumeirah, Dubai Email: We look forward to supporting your career development into the world of hair and makeup

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Provides unique and tested hair care treatments Suite 301, Al Maha Building, Al Diyafah Road, Dubai, UAE Phone # +971 4 3458833 | +971 4 3455005 Email: Website: | |

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Make-Up Designory (MUD), creating honest make-up products and providing quality education Vision Empire General Trading L.L.C Tel: 00971-42946883 • Fax:00971-42946884 • Mob: 00971-501889677 Dubai, United Arab Emirates.

24/01/2017Vision 12:58 Empire Classified MAY.indd 1

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DEFINING WELLNESS ©123dartist - Fotolia

Create your unique Spa & Wellness Experience World fully equipped by Gharieni - The manufacturer of high-end spa, wellness & medical equipment, beds & furniture Made in Germany

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Gharieni Middle-East • Dubai Design District D3 • Building 1 • Office B208 • Dubai Tel: +971 (0) 55 5 70 60 12 • •

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Professional Beauty GCC - May 2017  
Professional Beauty GCC - May 2017