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JANUARY 2019 £4.75


EXCHANGE Changing your laser or IPL hair removal offer for men

think BIG The major launches you’ll see at the PB London show

GETTING under the


The new wave of aesthetic treatments that cause less trauma and offer new avenues for therapists

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THE LUXURY NATURAL SKINCARE BRAND, WITH 20 YEARS OF SPA EXPERTISE Effective formulas: 3 major patented ingredients: Resveratrol, the anti-ageing molecule of the future, Viniferine, with exceptional anti-dark spot results, Polyphenols, to fight against free radicals.

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Business support: A consultative approach to business development, with an exceptional training and a bespoke commercial marketing calendar.

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Discover our patented anti-ageing innovation

Grapevine Resveratrol

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Patent n°PCT/IB2015/054257 (filed by Caudalie and Harvard University)


Make the difference to your Spa with exclusive Caudalie facial and body treatments. Contact us on +44 207 498 8944 or email Twitter @CaudalieUK (1) IQVIA - Pharmatrend - Eye contouring products and facial anti-ageing care products for women in French pharmacies - MAT June 2018 - in value.

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G O O D F O R T H E E N V I R O N M E N T.

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One passionate company, three exceptional brands ADVANCED NUTRITION PROGRAMME™ ENVIRON® JANE IREDALE

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Talk to your skincare professional today.

To become a stockist call us on 020 8450 2020 or email Value of gift is at RRP. Offer expires 30th April 2017 and is only valid for salons who don’t stock Environ® Skin Care. Gift will be given when you meet one of our friendly area managers.



conquer with





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Clarity+ Range is an innovative 3-phase system offering a complete skincare solution that is tough on

We’ve cut through the hype to create beauty supplements of exceptional quality and efficacy. Our research-backed, ethically sourced ingredients perform at the very core of your clients’ skin, where topical creams can’t reach.



focus on


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· 1 minute makeovers delivering an additional £24,440 turnover *


breakouts but easy on skin.

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Passion, innovation and total commitment to results. Simple.

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One passionate company, three exceptional brands ADVANCED NUTRITION PROGRAMME™ ENVIRON® JANE IREDALE



To become a stockist call us on 020 8450 2020 or email and quote GNENV18 to find out more.

One passionate company, three exceptional brands

Value of gift is at RRP. Offer expires 31st August 2017 and is only valid for salons who don’t stock Advanced Nutrition ProgrammeTM.

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Next Generation…


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RESULTS nail science nutritional supplement with vitamins, minerals and lysine for healthy nails

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Now you can achieve incredible results in-salon with this revolutionary technique. Special CST seminar at Professional Beauty Manchester on 16th October. Call us for details!


Images courtesy of Environ® South Africa, these photographs have not been retouched.

recommended product ®

Institute for Anti-Ageing

For the first time, therapists can re-activate the skin’s incredible powers of rejuvenation with Collagen Stimulation Therapy™ (micro-needling).

- can improve nail strength. International

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Another first for the iiaa


The complete nutrition programme to support anti-ageing in the spa and salon environment. For a full information pack call 020 8830 8030 (Rol: 0044 208 830 8030), Email or visit


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*Based on selling 1 ‘power of 3’ a day which includes a base, a brush and a hydration spray, over the course of the year.


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The new AVST range is packed with even more active ingredients to help you exceed client expectations. Resveratrol , Rooibos , Peptides , Vitamins and more…

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Contact us for a comprehensive information pack: Tel 020 8450 2020 (ROI: 0044 208 450 2020) Email Web Distributed in the UK & Ireland by Wholeview Limited, Unit 1, 1000 North Circular Road London NW2 7JP



To find out about our Collagen Stimulation Therapy™ training, or to become a stockist, call 020 8450 2020 or email

25/2/10 12:34:33

A revolutionary approach to peels

Care for skin, don’t destroy it Discover a ground-breaking approach to peels, which rejuvenates skin while caring for the epidermis. At the Cool Peels – A Revolution in Results seminar you’ll learn how to: • Address lines, photo-damage, rosacea and problem skin • Stimulate growth factors • Boost collagen and elastin • Achieve incredible results with no redness or recovery time This two hour seminar takes place at Professional Beauty North on 14th October in Manchester. Tickets cost just £25 + VAT


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To book, or to find out more about the Environ® Cool Peel, call 020 8450 2020 or email

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One passionate company, three exceptional brands ADVANCED NUTRITION PROGRAMME™ ENVIRON® JANE IREDALE

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25 years of empowering Skincare Professionals to deliver the very best results for their clients.

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LEAVE A LASTING IMPRESSION Astound your clients with unforgettable treatments that your therapists will love too. Visible results combine with beautiful rituals and signature luxuries for an unrivalled experience.

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CLAIM YOUR EXCLUSIVE MURAD GIFT WORTH £150* To have a personalised business consultation or to find out more about how Murad can help transform your spa, salon or clinic, email or call 020 7870 4813. Upon qualification you will recieve an exclusive Murad gift and support pack. * Valid 1-31st January 2019. Whilst stocks last.




Contents 13 News Beauty salon numbers set to soar; health provider pushes for wellness to be taught in schools

New Look


27 What the industry’s been talking about online 33 Out & about Behind the scenes at the industry’s biggest parties and launches 39 Insider Our exclusive monthly stats to help salons and spas benchmark their businesses 47 Ward’s world Six winning business practices you can implement in your salon this year 51 Ask the experts Expanding into tattoo removal and how to increase your male client base 97 Nail bites Orly’s new nail-extension product; inside Chloe Cordelia Nails salon 101 Staff strategy The rules regarding probation periods for employees 102 Treatment news Sienna X makes its brow debut and the Lashus Lash Lift launches 106 New products Spotlight on new supplements and skincare delivery systems 112 Career Path Christine Thompson, training and professionals manager at Le Salon, on the pros and cons of becoming an on-demand therapist


On the cover

59 Talking to…Rebecca Holmes The Spa at The Midland’s new director reveals how she’ll be raising the spa’s service level and attracting the best therapists

66 First for innovation Professional Beauty London is returning to ExCeL on February 24–25, showcasing the hottest beauty launches of 2019. We reveal the big names attending and what they will be exhibiting

74 Bright idea All the networking opportunities available at PB London, from Live Stages and seminars, to the Salon and Spa Networking Lunch 78 The professional touch Entry requirements for PB London’s lash, make-up and nail championships 81 The nation’s best How to book your PB Awards ticket and network with the elite 94 Young at heart Why salon Young LDN is offering a membership package targeted at millennials and generation Z

82 Future focus Why sustainability, water usage and trauma-free innovations will be the biggest talking points in the industry this year and what you need to do to future-proof your business 88 Seeing the light With more men going for the hair-free look, the opportunity for salons to cash in on this trend has never been greater. We explain how to market your laser hair-removal services to the male market

Cover: Primark

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Editor’s Comment


With the number of salons on our high streets booming, it’s never been more important to create a strong point of difference to attract both clients and skilled staff. News this month that the number of independent beauty salons in the UK is forecast to grow faster than any other independent sector over the next five years has been met with mixed reactions by the market (see page 13 for more). While increased consumer demand for treatments has to be a good thing, fast growth also brings challenges, in terms of both competition for already scarce therapist talent and the potential threat to the reputation of the industry posed by new businesses looking to cash in on demand without always investing in the training and professionalism of their more established salon neighbours. Most savvy salon owners agree that competing on price is only ever a short-term win, yet it can be very hard to convince clients to pay more than the going rate for treatments that they consider to be purely cosmetic, such as nails and tanning. For this reason, a growing number of spas and serious skincare salons are diversifying into aesthetic treatments, which, on the whole, offer higher profit margins. So, this month we were excited to hear about a new wave of aesthetic devices set to enter the market this year, offering therapists fresh, non-invasive ways to administer treatments that traditionally require more invasive methods such as needles or medical lasers. Find out more in our Professional Beauty London show preview from page 66, where you can also discover new launches and trends from every sector of the market, helping you to set yourself apart in 2019, wherever you choose to specialise.





INSURANCE Get Professional Beauty Direct insurance cover from just £52.50 a year or £72.25 a year with your subscription. Professional Nails Direct starts at just £39.50.

Editor: Eve Oxberry 020 3841 7378

Caroline Ruston 020 7349 4798

Deputy editor: Amanda Pauley 020 3728 9064

Advertising enquiries: 020 7351 0536

Account managers: Jack Diamond 020 7349 4792

Amanda Strange 020 7349 4793 Sibel Suleyman 020 7349 4794 Classified and recruitment sales: Nur Tanyeri 020 7349 4796 Publisher: Mark Moloney 020 7349 4790 Head of marketing: Chloe Monina 020 7349 4799 Design and production: ICD, Printing: Southernprint,

Subscriptions enquiries: 01371 851875

Lutfiye Ibrahim 020 7349 4795

The publisher accepts no responsibility for any advertiser whose advertisement is published in Professional Beauty. Anyone dealing with advertisers must make their own enquiries.

You can now book and manage your insurance online at professional or call the team on 0345 605 8670


Features editor: Georgia Seago 020 3728 9063

Annual print subscription UK: £37; Europe: £44; outside Europe: £49.50

Features writer: Fiona Vlemmiks

To receive your copy of Professional Beauty every month call 01371 851875 or see

Editorial assistant: Lydia Mormen 020 3841 7379

Annual digital subscription: £9.99

Social media editor: Chris Halpin 020 3841 7368

To view full issues on your desktop, tablet or smartphone subscribe at Published by Trades Exhibitions Ltd Editorial enquiries: 020 7351 0536

Sales director: Steve James 020 7349 4791


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24 & 25 Feb 2019 ExCeL London

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13 News

News Beauty salons to experience highest growth on UK high streets Beauty salons are predicted to experience the greatest growth in terms of numbers of outlets on UK high streets over the next four years, with 2,810 more sites predicted to open by 2023. Research by Global Data and American Express found that within the beauty and hair sector as a whole, beauty salons, which included dedicated brow, nail, waxing and massage service businesses, would experience more growth than hair salons. Together, the number of independent beauty, hair, tanning, tattoo and piercing salons is set to increase by 7,852 in the next four years, the highest level of any sector on the high street. As a result, there will be 56,484

independent beauty and hair salons across the nation by 2023. The predicted growth was attributed to a rise in the amount consumers are willing to spend on their appearance, with the data revealing that the nation spends £7.62 billion on independent beauty services annually. Millennials (22–36 year olds) were the driving force behind the increase in consumer spending, accounting for more than a quarter of all spending in beauty and hair salons and barbers – an average of

£281 beautifying themselves every year. However, while increased demand is positive for the industry, the boom in competition has led to concern about the reputation of professional treatment providers. PB reader Lindsay Chambers, owner of Beauty By Lindsay in Kirkintilloch, Scotland, commented: “I think this is great, as I am one of these independents, but I would love to see the industry better regulated to protect legitimate businesses and customers.”

Wellness should be timetabled in schools, says health provider Independent health provider Nuffield Health has called for wellness to be added to the national curriculum alongside maths and English to teach children about the importance of wellbeing. Nuffield, which also runs beauty salons in many of its sites, has suggested instating a “head of wellness” at schools, following a two-year pilot scheme at Wood Green Secondary School in Oxfordshire, where a member of staff was assigned the role, teaching children about wellness and mental health. 11 year groups reported an improvement in energy and

relaxation levels and an increased ability to deal with problems, as well as a 48% rise in average fruit consumption and 59% in vegetables, the study found. Teachers also felt the benefit, with a “significant increase” reported on a scale used to measure wellbeing, as well as a 7% rise in average fruit consumption and 13% in vegetables. Head teacher Robert Shadbolt said the programme was such a success that wellbeing is

now timetabled at the school. Nuffield Health is offering a free-of-charge six-week programme for schools, covering guidance for children on what they should eat, how often they should exercise and how much screen time on digital devices they should have.

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T TC : Tr i p l e Turm e ri c C o m p l ex



24 & 25 Feb 2019 ExCeL London

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Botanical extract bakuchiol shown to have anti-ageing benefits comparable to retinol

Botanical ingredient bakuchiol – derived from the Indian plant babchi – has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties similar to retinol, leading to “promising” findings for the skincare industry. US researchers split 44 volunteers into two groups, each asked to apply either bakuchiol 0.5% cream twice daily or retinol 0.5% cream daily for 12 weeks.

Photographs were taken of each participant with an analytical camera before the experiment and at four, eight and 12 weeks. A dermatologist also analysed pigmentation and redness at each marker, while volunteers answered questions about any side effects. At week 12, more than half (59%) of the bakuchiol participants showed improvement in skin pigmentation, compared to just 44% of those who had been using retinol. Both ingredients were found to “significantly decrease” pigmentation and wrinkle surface area at the end of the trial with no notable statistical difference, though the researchers noted “more scaling and stinging” in the retinol group.

Industry experts form committee to support beauty therapists in aesthetics The Beauty Aesthetic Special Interest Committee (BASIC) has been formed by a group of industry experts, following the decision made last year by The Joint Council of Cosmetic Practitioners (JCCP) not to allow therapists on its register for injectables. The committee’s aim is to support the development of pathways of accredited qualifications for beauty therapists to demonstrate competence for entry to the JCCP registers. Currently non-medics can enter the register for advanced treatments other than injectables. BASIC was established by JCCP trustee Caroline Larissey, who is chairwoman of BASIC and quality and standards manager at the National Beauty Federation. Other founding members of the committee include Gerry Moore of the Federation of Holistic Therapists, Debra Morris of



// Aromatherapy Associates chief executive Tracey Woodward has announced she is to step down from her role. She will be replaced by Anna Teal, who will officially take over at the end of March, and is currently vice president and global business development director of global brands at Walgreens Boots Alliance. // Ye Olde Bell Hotel and Spa in Nottinghamshire has launched Tiny Spa sessions for children aged between five and 10. The sessions will run monthly and include access to a range of spa experiences including bubbling footbaths and the salt inhalation room. // The Lava Shells Self-Heating Massage Kit won the Best New Health and Wellbeing Product at The Beauty Awards 2018 with OK!. All products entered were trialled by expert judges over one month. The event was sponsored by 3D-lipo, and more than 150 celebrities walked away with 3D-lipo goodies in their gift bags. // Nail Harmony UK directors Georgie and Jason Smedley have been awarded The Outstanding Distributor of the Year 2018 award by manufacturer Nail Alliance in recognition of their success growing the Gelish brand in the UK.

VTCT, Jane Goldsbro of Habia and Lesley Blair of Babtac. Larissey said the committee had three main aims: “Showing how professional beauty therapists are… to create world-beating training and accreditation so we train people to be the best they can be, and finally, working with the JCCP and Government to create a workable, easy-to-understand system of regulation and licencing to prove to the public that they are safe in our hands.”

// Lash Perfect has held its first open days in Essex and London. The events focus on Lash Perfect products, treatments and training, and offer attendees industry insights as well as advice from experts.

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“Sub-zero waste” trend to impact beauty industry in 2019

// The Federation of Holistic Therapists’ (FHT) 2018 Excellence Awards named Jane Sheehan as Complementary Therapist of the Year and Gwen Featonby as Tutor of the Year, recognising their complementary therapy work alongside the NHS. The awards were held at The King’s Fund in London as part of the FHT conference. // CACI International collaborated with luxury swimwear designer Melissa Odabash for her 20th Anniversary collection by providing the Hydro Eye Mask as a gift in the goody bags for the celebratory event. // Urban Massage has re-branded to Urban and launched a range of beauty and wellness services. The London-based on-demand mobile booking app now offers nail services, Dermalogica facials and osteopathy treatments. The new services are currently only available in London, though Urban operates on-demand massage in Manchester and Birmingham. // QMS Medicosmetics has revealed the results of an independent clinical trial for its Classic Collagen Set. The products have been shown to increase skin hydration by 264% and reduce the visible signs of ageing by 42% according to the trial, which tested 31 respondents. // Wax Daddy Andy Rouillard and Samantha Humberstone, owner of Lotions n Potions, will host an event focused on male grooming and a hot wax masterclass on January 28 at SJH Training school in Sheffield to raise money for mental health charity No Panic.

Analyst Mintel has named “sub-zero waste” as 2019’s most important global beauty movement, signalling a more hard-line approach to sustainability this year. Mintel predicts that efforts will be focused on more than plastic-reduction initiatives moving forward, with beauty and personal care brands developing innovative ways of managing true sustainability at every step of the supply chain. Given the zero-tolerance attitude towards plastic wastage of increasingly

well-informed consumers, brands that take this approach are likely to be the ones that succeed in the market, as opposed to those that create single-use beauty products in disposable packaging. Andrew McDougall, associate director of Mintel’s beauty and personal care division, commented: “‘Subzero waste’ is not just a trend; it’s a movement towards a groundshaking new archetype for the beauty and personal care industry. “Some companies are already discussing completely removing packaging from the equation. Whether reducing or eliminating waste altogether, if brands don’t change their approach now, they will become insignificant. Brands that place current profits ahead of making the necessary investment in zero waste and sustainability will not be around in the future.”

Huge rise in reported corrective aesthetic procedures from 2017-2018 The number of complaints related to non-surgical procedures reported to Save Face increased by 556 in one year. There were 934 complaints lodged with Save Face, a voluntary register for accredited practitioners of non-surgical treatments, against procedures carried out by unregistered practitioners between August 2017 and September 2018, up from 378 in the previous 12-month period. The figures were revealed in Save Face’s Consumer Complaints Audit Report 2017-2018, where it was said that of the sub-standard treatments it heard about, 387 had resulted in the patient seeking out corrective procedures by other practitioners. The majority of complaints were about dermal filler procedures, up from 252 in 2016-2017 to 616. There were

224 botulinum toxin procedures reported, compared to 98 in the previous period. Aside from injectables, Save Face also received 42 complaints regarding laser and IPL, up from 11 in 2016-2017, 26 for thread lifts, up from seven; 11 relating to chemical peels, up from five; eight dermaroller incidents, up from three; and seven plasma treatments, up from two.

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For the Body





For the Face


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// Stockton Riverside College in County Durham has opened a beauty and hair salon in the University Hospital of North Tees. Final-year beauty therapy and hairdressing students and apprentices will provide treatments to patients, staff and visitors two days a week. // Most UK women’s make-up bags are worth more than the rest of their outfit put together, according to data from The research calculated that the average contents come to around £300. // A Clean Air Act has been launched by eco-focused Titanic Spa in Huddersfield. By using plants to clear pollutants from the air, as well as having a salt-regulated and chemical-free pool, the spa hopes to provide a healthy breathing space for city-dwellers. // S62 Tattoo Parlour in Rotherham held a sponsored leg-waxing challenge to raise money for 4Louis, a charity that allows bereaved families more time with their stillborn babies. In total they raised £500. // 67% of Brits are more stressed now than they were five years ago, with the most common stress triggers being work, sleep and finances, according to new research by mindfulness app Headspace. Younger people reported higher levels of stress than older generations, with 53% of generation Z feeling the pressure, versus just 29% of baby boomers.

Pure Spa & Beauty launches crowdfunding campaign to fuel growth

Pure Spa & Beauty, a salon group with seven sites across Scotland and one in London, has launched a crowd-funding campaign in the hopes of raising £150,000 to expand the business. Hosted on platform Crowdcube, the campaign launched in November and had reached £54,960 as Professional Beauty went to print. Chief executive

Becky Woodhouse told PB that she plans on using the investment raised to expand Pure’s number of sites to 25-30 in the near future. “We have a lot of opportunities to grow the business and are hoping to raise these funds to take us to the next level,” said Woodhouse. “We decided to go down the crowdfunding route mainly to give back a bit to the clients and staff who have supported the business all along in getting it this far.” Crowdcube allows investors to become shareholders in the business. “I want those people to get involved and give us feedback on how we can make it better and evolve,” added Woodhouse.

Chemicals in high-street cosmetics may cause early puberty in girls Beauty products containing chemicals such as diethyl phthalate and methyl paraben could cause girls to go through puberty early, a study by researchers at the University of California, published in the journal Human Reproduction, has suggested. Almost 200 girls were tracked from birth to adolescence, checking for signs of puberty every nine months between the ages of nine and 13. Researchers discovered that children started puberty earlier if their mothers were exposed to triclosan, found in

some antibacterial hand washes and toothpastes. Meanwhile, girls with the highest levels of diethyl phthalates developed body hair around six months earlier than usual.

Living Coral named Pantone’s Colour of the Year 2019 Pantone has chosen Living Coral – a muted terracotta inspired by nature – as its Colour of the Year 2019. The colour provider said Living Coral is representative of how coral reefs provide shelter to a diverse kaleidoscope of colour, symbolising “authenticity in connection”. It believes this is an especially important factor in today’s society, where technology and social media have had such a huge impact on our lives. The colour is set to make a big impact in make-up and nail product launches this year.

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diarydates // January 31–February 2 Imcas Annual World Congress Palais de Congrès, Paris The 21st edition of the international expo covering dermatology and aesthetic procedures. +33 (0) 1 4073 8282 // February 17–18 Professional Beauty GCC & World Spa & Wellness Convention Festival Arena, Dubai Middle East version of the beauty trade show and exec-level spa conference. +971 (0) 40375 7300

// February 24 Professional Beauty and World Spa & Wellness Awards The Brewery, London Awards ceremony celebrating excellence in the global beauty and spa industry. 020 7351 4536 awards // February 24–25 World Spa & Wellness Convention ExCeL, London Conference and networking event for international spa owners and hoteliers. 020 7351 0536 // February 24–25 Active Wellness ExCeL, London First major fitness event from the organisers of Professional Beauty, with fitness-focused content. 020 7351 0536 // March 3–5 INNOCOS Fairmont Mission Inn & Spa, California, US A conference on beauty trends covering marketing, distribution and retail. +32 1527 0962

Essential Beauty Supplies to open education centre

Essential Beauty Supplies, distributor of waxing brands including Outback Organics, is opening an education centre and showroom in January. Located in Wellington, Somerset, the 8,000sq ft site will host waxing training accredited by The Guild and will also house the supplier’s showroom, where therapists and salon owners can see products from Depil8, Hive, and Reference, as well as Outback Organics. Essential Beauty Supplies said the new space was developed following a period of sustained business growth over the past year. Courses will include male and female intimate waxing and

an Advanced Skills Workshop, developed to give therapists extensive knowledge of Outback products and help them build confidence in technique and skill. Male intimate courses will accommodate a maximum of four people, while female intimate and the workshop will allow for slightly bigger numbers. Courses will run on set dates. A launch event will be held on January 21, with tickets available for £5 for therapists, salon owners and managers. These include refreshments and can be redeemed against Outback Organics purchases made on the day.

Nouveau Lashes creates lash health guide for consumers In a bid to educate consumers about the importance of lash health, Nouveau Lashes has produced a 30-page Ultimate Lash Care Guide booklet for technicians to pass on to clients. Co-founders Karen Betts and Bridgette Softley gathered a team of experts to share their knowledge and advice in the guide, including trichologist Trisha Buller, dermatologist Justine Hextall, optometrist Francesca Marchetti and Nouveau Lashes’ international lash trainer Deborah Law. The guide warns clients of the bad eye-health habits they should avoid, such as pulling out lash extensions and failing to do their research on techs

before undergoing a treatment. The back page sets out seven key questions clients should ask their salon before booking an extension or lash lift appointment. The guide will be distributed to Nouveau Lashes accounts and snippets of content will be posted as blogs on the brand’s website.

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Diana Jenner (@orchidsretreat):



#Thankyou @pro_beauty for a fabulous experience. It was great meeting the other Therapist of the Year candidates at the PB Awards 2019 judging day, a wonderful group of women. So honoured to be among you all.

We take a look inside PB’s digital world

Hot topic Jolene Young (@ JoleneY48364678): Another exciting route opening for beauty therapists – the BSc in clinical Cosmetology – can’t wait to hear more about this degree. Now we just need the industry to be properly regulated! @pro_beauty @Habia_SSB

Average beauty industry wages revealed Kim Hill, owner of Kim Hill Beauty in Weymouth, commented: “As a beauty therapist, it really irritates me that I went to college for three years to train, yet I could work in Aldi or Lidl and earn more per hour than I did at a spa. With this in mind, I’ve decided to take the plunge and go self-employed.”

Hot topic THIS MONTH WE ASKED YOU… Would you go to a spa or salon other than your own for a treatment?

89% YES

Should we teach wellbeing at schools? @pro_beauty01: A study by health provider Nuffield Health is suggesting that wellbeing should be timetabled in schools alongside English and Maths. Do you like the idea? Helena Grzesk, general manager of the UK Spa Association, commented: “I would certainly be in support of this at my son’s school. We practise meditation daily and have done since he was very small. Introducing wellbeing at a young age is a great idea.” Pamela Moss, owner of Pamela Moss in Hampshire, commented: “Oh my goodness, yes! My daughter started yoga at nursery and still practises it now.”

11% NO

Follow Professional Beauty… @pro_beauty01 and the team: @eveoxberry @mini_pauley


@georgeseago @fivlemmiks

@lydiamormen @katsjonouchi

027-028 PBJAN19 Digital.indd 27

12/12/2018 12:52



What’s on


Your one-stop shop where all the latest news, features, products and expert opinions are brought together and streamed by sector-specific channels


Video: RSI and back pain prevention exercises Repetitive strain injury and lower back pain are common injuries for therapists, but are easily preventable with the right know-how. In our video, Pilates teacher and PB’s Therapist of the Year 2016 Kerry Beavis demonstrates four exercises that will keep you and your staff in tip-top shape.



Blog: How to make it as a make-up artist

Blog: T  he link between employee happiness and customer satisfaction

Rebecca Cathcart, lead make-up artist for HD Brows, discusses her career so far and gives five tips on how you can further your progression in the industry, including working with other makeup artists and taking advantage of Instagram.

Jane Tregonning, spa manager at the PB Awardwinning The Spa at Ribby Hall, shares her advice for building relationships and getting the best out of your staff, and the positive impact that can have on your business.

Watch our exclusive videos now:

Whatever your speciality, stay in the know on the sector that matters to you with our six online channels, packed with curated content on need-to-know business skills and training advice. Skincare & Spa


Tanning & Waxing

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Promotional Feature



salon staff

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New Year is a perfect time to tap into some team spirit, set fresh targets and motivate your salon staff for the year ahead etting the most out of your salon employees is a win-win situation when handled well,” says NBF chief executive Hilary Hall. “Your employees will feel valued and their input and commitment will then contribute towards the success of your business.”

Overcoming performance problems

You’ll need to set performance targets but listen carefully to what your employee has to say as it’s important that targets are realistic and achievable, advises Hall. “Otherwise, targets won’t motivate your employees and won’t help your business achieve the results it needs. Targets should lead to a win-win situation where the employee’s take-home pay goes up, and the salon turnover increases,” says Hall. NBF members can download a free guide to managing people at, which includes a template performance review form.

“Appraisal and target-setting meetings should always be upbeat and positive,” says Hilary. “Start the meeting by praising your employee’s achievements and highlighting examples of when they went the ‘extra mile’.” However, you may sometimes need to raise issues of concern, which can be more tricky. “If you need to do this, don’t make it personal,” says Hall. “Make sure you have concrete examples of aspects of their work that are of concern. This is where the salon software reports are so useful. You can then make plans together to start to put things right.” Finally, always make sure your employees are thanked and rewarded for meeting or exceeding their targets. Find out how to reward your salon staff for long-term success at

Using salon software

The National Beauty Federation (NBF)

You can use salon software to track how well your employees are doing, including how much they earn, rebooking rates, retail sales and client retention. “You can use this specific information to help set individual targets for your staff,” says Hall. “You will need to have regular conversations about whether or not performance targets are being met. Using reports from your salon software makes those conversations much easier because there is concrete evidence about what’s going well and what isn’t.”

The NBF is the NHF’s (National Hairdressers Federation) sister trade association, set up to provide specialist business support to beauty salons. For less than 75p a day, the NBF will help you boost your business while keeping you safe, legal and bang up to date with all the latest business law that will affect you.

Setting targets

Don’t forget retail Most salons include retail sales in their performance targets, but sometimes team members worry that they will come across as doing a “hard sell” or being “pushy”. “Encourage your employees to talk to clients about the products they’re using in the salon, why they’re using them and how the client can achieve the same effect at home using the same products,” says Hall.

Join the NBF before the end of January 2019 and quote PBJ25 to get £25 off your membership fee.

Join online at Or call us on 01234 831965

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12/12/2018 14:04

Industry Events


Out About


Behind the scenes at all the parties, launches and events in the world of beauty and spa


Distributor Re:New Beauty is celebrating 20 years of Bio Sculpture in the UK so features editor Georgia Seago and editorial assistant Lydia Mormen went to London venue The Brewery in December to join the party. The evening began with a champagne reception and canapĂŠs, followed by a three-course meal, as well as awards for the educators who helped expand Bio Sculpture across the UK. Each guest was gifted two limited-edition Bio Sculpture gel colours to commemorate the occasion.

NOUVEAU LASHES PRESS DINNER SEA CONTAINERS AT MONDRIAN, LONDON Nouveau Lashes held an exclusive press dinner in late November to launch its Ultimate Lash Care Guide and talk to the beauty media about the importance of looking after natural lashes and extensions. Georgia was there with Nouveau Lashes co-founders Karen Betts and Bridgette Softley, plus a panel of experts, including consultant dermatologist Justine Hextall and Nouveau Lashes international lash trainer Deborah Law, who spoke to guests about the risks associated with bad lash treatments or aftercare. This was followed by cocktails and a three-course meal. A personalised Links of London mirror and a goody bag was gifted to each guest.

033-034 PBJAN19 Out & About.indd 33

12/12/2018 09:10

Industry Events

34 SPA LIFE UK HILTON BIRMINGHAM METROPOLE Spa Life UK hosted a conference, scheduled spa and supplier meetings, and the Good Spa Guide Awards in Birmingham in late November. PB’s editor Eve Oxberry and managing director Mark Moloney headed there to network with brands and spa directors, and hear from speakers including nutrition expert Patrick Holford and “The Spa Whisperer” Nigel Franklyn. The Spa at The Midland, Manchester, and Elements in Somerset were among the spas that took home awards.

SALLY SALON SERVICES SS19 SHOWCASE SALLY HQ, BRACKNELL Specialist beauty wholesaler Sally held an open day for press and influencers in December to view some upcoming trends as it shot its SS19 inspirational videos. Guests, including PB’s Lydia, were shown mood boards for the spring/summer months; for example, a nomadic, tribal theme that made use of bold earthy tones. There were also manicures using Gelish products, makeovers and hair styling, and guests received a goody bag.

SALON SYSTEM SHOWCASE HUNTER COLLECTIVE, LONDON Salon System held a showcase to display all its brands under one roof. The Wax Daddy, Andy Rouillard, was on hand to perform demos using Just Wax, while educators treated guests to mini lash and nail treatments with Naturalash and Gellux. Guests, including PB’s Lydia and deputy editor Amanda Pauley, were treated to a lovely spread of cheeses and cake pops, as well as a flower wall to take the perfect selfie. Guests recieved a collection of Salon System products to try at home. PB

033-034 PBJAN19 Out & About.indd 34

12/12/2018 09:11


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39 Business Trends

Our exclusive monthly benchmarking stats for each sector of the market


Thinking up innovative ways to get your salon’s name out there can be tough, which is why 36% of you have been working closely with local businesses, such as hairdressers, barbers and gyms, developing joint packages to help bring in new custom. Just under a quarter (24%) of you have decided to host in-salon events for charities instead as a way to boost your business’s profile, while others have been teaming up with local celebrities (16%) and partnering with industry bodies on new initiatives (10%). Meanwhile, your laser hair-removal business is booming, with your most popular client group for the treatment now women between the ages of 35–44. However, with the male grooming market showing unprecedented growth and a hair-free torso the in trend, now is the perfect time to tailor your IPL and laser offering to the millennial man. Find out how on page 88.

On the spot

New Look


Which client group are your laser/IPL hair-removal treatments most popular with? 1. Women 35–44 2. Women 25–34 3. Women 45+ 4. Women 16–24




45% 41% 14% BETTER

Take part in our Insider feature Want to have your say on the beauty industry? Take part in our Insider feature and you’ll be rewarded with a £20 voucher to spend at the next Professional Beauty show you attend. Sign up at:

039-042 PBJAN19 Insider.indd 39



would consider implementing a digital devices ban/detox rule in salon Which activities have helped raise your salon’s profile? 1. Collaborating with other local businesses on packages 2. Hosting events to raise money for charity 3. Doing treatments on celebrities 4. Partnering with industry bodies and magazines on initiatives



35% 41% 24% BETTER



12/12/2018 09:13

Business Trends




On the spot


With a recent study revealing that just 30 minutes on Instagram a day can have a negative impact on our body image, the implications of social media being such a core part of our lives is in the spotlight. So, it’s no surprise that nearly three quarters (70%) of you have implemented, or are thinking of introducing, a digital detox in your spa, in a bid to help clients switch off from the online world, boosting their mental health. More than a third of you (40%) are also collaborating with other local businesses on treatment packages to help clients get that much-needed me time, and as such this has helped raise your profile massively – resulting in a healthy 61% room occupancy. As we welcome in the new year, discover why spas will have to seriously consider their water usage in our trends feature on page 82.

Which client group are your laser/IPL hair-removal treatments most popular with?

November 2018 in numbers

1. Women 25–34


2. Women 35–44 3. Women 16–24 4. Women 45+

51% 39% 10% BETTER





would consider implementing a digital devices ban/detox rule in spa

61% Which activities have helped raise your salon’s profile? 1. Collaborating with other local businesses on packages 2. Doing treatments on celebrities 3. Hosting events to raise money for charity 4. Partnering with industry bodies and magazines on initiatives







039-042 PBJAN19 Insider.indd 40

12/12/2018 09:13

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Your nail techs’ health has been a huge priority, with many of you introducing new protocols to ensure your working environment is a safe one. Just under two thirds of you (60%) have invested in extra training to ensure your techs are using brand systems correctly, while half (50%) have also stopped using products containing known allergens and another 44% insist that employees wear appropriate masks and gloves. Meanwhile, with many of you working on your business plan for 2019, 49% have admitted that competition from non-standard nail bars is the biggest challenge, as well as keeping your nail costs down (11%), not finding the right calibre of staff (10%) and getting retail sales post mani or pedi treatments (8%). Take a look at Orly’s new “extension innovation” and the latest vintage nail room for men, which has launched in London’s Fitzrovia, on page 97.

On the spot How do you ensure a healthy working environment for techs?

Dorothy Perkins

Business Trends


1. Investing in education on correct product usage 2. Not using products that contain known allergens 3. Requiring techs to wear appropriate masks and gloves 4. Using ventilation units

43 %


45% 42% 13% BETTER

would like to become a distributor for a leading nail brand





What’s the biggest challenge facing your nail business right now? 1. Competition from non-standard salons 2. Keeping nail product costs down 3. Not being able to fit all your clients in 4. Not finding the right calibre of nail techs METHODOLOGY Insider is compiled from a monthly survey of spas and beauty salons. The people who participated represent a crosssection of the industry and were polled by email from November 30 to December 10, regarding business for the month to November 30. Nail business for the Insider Nails page was calculated from data provided by spas and salons that offer nail services among other treatments. The figures given represent the average score for each answer. Brands are ranked when mentioned by several respondents.


24% 55% 21% BETTER



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business RESOLUTIONS Last year may have been a stormy one, but 2019 is looking bright – provided you do some smart thinking and plenty of preparation, writes HELLEN WARD


o, here we are in 2019. Some of you might know that I’m quite spiritual. I study numerology, astrology and tarot at The College of Psychic Studies in London in my spare time. Various tutors have told me that 2018 was the culmination of great planetary upheaval, and that those life-affecting changes will shape our futures for years to come. If you look back on the uncertainty that 2018 brought, you could be forgiven for thinking it was just a tumultuous year. But the seeds were sewn way before, in the years leading up to it. Looking to the future, things will be better. As Richard Abbott, my brilliant numerologist says, “The storm is going to continue, but the future takes root in the present. Work for the future, for what comes next. Everything will be fine, in the end” – a great mantra for life and for business. A new year is always a great time to revisit our goals, but what are the top six (good numerology!) best business practices we should try to adopt as habitual resolutions throughout 2019 to affect lasting change? 1. Give clear direction – Confidence breeds and it starts from the top. If we aren’t clear in where we are going, how can we possibly communicate the path to our staff? Stay focused to stay on course but don’t forget to share the “why” of what you are doing with those who you are expecting to deliver it for you. Them understanding the reasoning behind your decision making is half the battle. 2. Sweat the assets – It’s easy to take a scattergun approach when we should be snipers. What are you doing best? What are your clients telling you they like? Failure to listen to them is failure guaranteed. But what are you doing with the information you find out? If

you’re not marketing the strengths they identify, that’s commercial suicide. 3. Re-examine your target market – Ensure that everything you do is only aimed at your target client. When businesses wobble, the worst thing the managing director can do is panic and diversify. Stay true to your core – strong and steady (to quote Theresa May!). 4. See your business through fresh eyes – Mystery shop yourself. Find out what you are doing well and market it, and then mystery shop the competition to see what they are doing better and learn from it. 5. Conduct the “safety briefing” – Giving the team clear, concise direction requires not only confidence but repetition. We may get tired of repeating ourselves endlessly but hammering home a consistent message – like you get with an airline safety briefing – is crucial. We only get consistency if we are consistent in asking for it. 6. Look at the bigger picture – We can be an insular industry, and this isn’t good for business. Read the papers, see what’s happening in the financial sector, and get a steer from other service industries to see who is piloting stuff that we might try and adopt in our sector. I for one will be carrying out a SWOT (strengths, weaknesses, opportunities, threats) analysis with my senior management team to look at every element of our business and turnover and how we can maximise the opportunities we identify. We need to be as ready to optimise the calm waters as we are to face the storm. Happy New Year. PB

Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London, one of the most profitable independent salons in the UK. She is beauty ambassador for The National Beauty Federation (NBF). Send your feedback to

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12/12/2018 09:14




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Ask the Experts



the EXPERTS Our experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business

I’m about to expand my salon. Should I take on additional staff on payroll or on a self-employed basis? Having experienced both sides, I know that there are many pros and cons for both payroll and self-employed staff. If you employ people via the traditional payroll route, they come in under your rules and salon guidelines. This means you have more control over how salon etiquette is upheld, keeping the brand to your expected level of customer service. Staff members will wear your uniform, which is good for brand recognition. It also makes performance management easier, via one-to-ones and regular reviews, and you can set retail and service targets as a way to increase revenue. As your business grows and requires new job roles, you’ll find it easier to train from within the team until you’re ready to grow further. However, staff can be challenging – as the team grows, the demands grow, and you will need to allocate more time for people management. I always recommend getting a manager that doesn’t do treatments for a team of four or more as it’s a full-time job to manage a team efficiently. If you decide to go down the self-employed route, rent space wisely, making sure that whoever you’re renting to brings in added expertise, so you have more services to offer your clients. Renting space directly costs less, meaning you’re not forking out for salaries before staff are busy enough to break even with their wages.

The downside of using selfemployed staff is that you can’t control their work ethic. You will only make the rent as revenue, leaving no room for growth unless you put the rent up. You also have to accept that it’s their business, not yours. You can have some rules in a contract but how they speak to clients is up to them. Also bear in mind that your brand gets diluted when the space is rented out to other businesses. Before deciding, write down the pros and cons that are specific to your salon and your personality.

Kerri-Ann Angus is director of Peaches Wax Bar in Glasgow, which won PB’s Scotland Large Salon of the Year 2018.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to

051-056 PBJAN19 Ask the Experts.indd 51

12/12/2018 09:15

52 Ask the Experts

My client with PCOS needs fortnightly facial waxing. How can I protect her sensitive skin? Polycystic Ovary Syndrome (PCOS) is a condition that affects how a woman’s ovaries work and, in terms of the complexion, can cause skin to be oily or dry, reddened or sensitive. On top of this, excess hair can appear due to hormonal changes. The hair can become stronger too so for facial waxing I would definitely recommend a peelable or flexible wax as it grabs the hair much better, is kinder to sensitive skin and causes less redness. It is also applied at a warm, not hot, temperature. Straight afterwards, apply a rich, after-wax cream that has been specifically designed for the face and contains plant oils and butters like argan oil or cupacu, shea or cocoa butters to nourish and hydrate skin. It should also contain calming ingredients like aloe vera to soothe and cool.

I’m considering offering tattoo removal; how much would I need to invest?

Try to choose an after-wax cream which also contains a hair retardant so, with regular use, the hair will grow back finer, a little slower, and become

The growing trend for tattoo studios and permanent make-up artists

less visible. It is even better if the

has had a considerable impact on the tattoo-removal industry. Statistics

cream contains an SPF to help protect

suggest that half of those who get a tattoo will regret it within five years, so

sensitive skin from harmful UV rays in

there’s a definite demand for removal services.

the summer months.

There is such a huge difference in the price of tattoo-removal machines

After the treatment, send the client

and training. On the lower end of the spectrum, you could get a machine

home with a retail version of the

from eBay for £1,000 but usually these come without support from the

cream so that she can continue to

supplier and it’s likely you would struggle to get insured to use it on clients.

soothe and hydrate her skin, reducing

Conversely, one from a major supplier might cost you £150,000. The truth

and slowing regrowth.

is that most tattoo-removal lasers do essentially the same thing – the key is in the training, the level of support you get from the supplier, and ultimately, how the tool is used. Training should be accredited to Level 5. A good training provider should be able to show you how to achieve these qualifications even if you have no previous experience. The qualifications should come from an accrediting body – a certificate printed in a supplier’s office with no independent accreditation is not enough. You should also make sure that your laser machine can be serviced as this needs to be done every year. As a rule of thumb, you should be able to get a good laser machine and training package for around £10,000 but Lorena Öberg is a skin repair expert, and chief executive and founder of Lorena Öberg Skincare.

do your homework. Many questions come after the training has finished when support from

Tracey Smith has 30 years’ industry experience and is owner of natural waxing brand Ashmira Botanica.

your trainer is vital.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to

051-056 PBJAN19 Ask the Experts.indd 52

12/12/2018 09:15

Ask the Experts


How can I convince my clients they need to wear SPF daily, even in winter? If your clients are concerned about preventing skin ageing or the development of skin cancers, it is important they protect the skin daily from ultraviolet (UV) radiation. While many believe that skin deterioration or damage only occurs when there is burning, this is not accurate. The shorter, higher intensity UVB rays cause obvious damage as they burn the surface of the skin. UVA rays, however, are somewhat less intense – they may not cause sunburn, but penetrate much deeper into the dermis of the skin. This is the area that contains the scaffolding structure of collagen and elastin, important in giving our skin strength, flexibility and elasticity. UV causes these fibres to crosslink, which

How can I get my gel nails close enough to the cuticle?

changes their flexibility and promotes deep creasing and lines in the skin. UV can also damage elasticity and alter pigment production. This is a slow and

Often nail techs forget that preparation is the most important element

progressive process that accumulates

when creating a good manicure. The more time you can spend preparing,

over time. UVA radiation is constant all

the better your manicure will be. Cuticles are key so make sure you always

year, regardless of season or cloud cover.

push back and remove your client’s excess cuticle.

Both UVA and UVB contribute to the

Take your time. Currently, everyone is obsessed with five-finger curing. If you are painting properly it takes around 30-40 seconds to paint two nails. So, once

development of skin cancers. Importantly, the recommended

you have painted one coat of gel onto two nails, ask your client to pop their

advice for low-risk days is still to wear

hands under the lamp. This prevents shrinkage and ensures the product stays as

a minimum of SPF 30. So, the bottom

close to the cuticle line as possible . It won’t slow your application down.

line is, regardless of the UV index and

Picking the right brush to paint your gel manicure is as important as

where you live, applying a moisturiser

picking the right gel. For example, Bio Sculpture gel comes in a jar, which

or skincare product with SPF daily will

means you can choose whichever brush you work best with. This allows you

help protect skin and defend from

to select the right artistic tool for

damaging daylight.

you, helping you perfect your Claire Aggarwal is founder of Perfect 10 mobile beauty and now works with Bio Sculpture as head of business development.

manicure. As they say, practice makes perfect, and when trying to achieve the ultimate flawless gel

Candice Gardner is Dermalogica’s education manager in the UK and has 25 years’ industry experience.

manicure this really is the case.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to

051-056 PBJAN19 Ask the Experts.indd 54

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KB PRO . CO M 01977 655 630 K.B Pro® is a registered trademark of Karen Betts Ltd

56 Ask the Experts

How can I increase the number of male clients coming to my salon in a cost-effective way? Many spas and salons that I visit internationally are experiencing impactful increases in male guest numbers but it is also becoming glaringly obvious that some are not entirely leveraging this opportunity to the maximum. An increase in male guests is a global trend and shows no sign of slowing. In the past decade, training has materially improved and extra attention by the more successful spas has ensured that men are both regularly visiting their spas and also spending more and more when there. However, the majority of businesses are not focusing on one of the simplest ways to gain more traction with their male guests – the development of more male-orientated services and protocols to really make the spa business and experience as inclusive as possible for men. That normally needs to begin with the selection of the right product range,

Should I be offering ombré eyebrow shading as well as microblading? Ombré brows are on the rise, and we are getting asked for this technique more and more. Microblading gives a very natural look with “hair strokes”, which are

or by asking certain simple questions of your current product provider such as, “can we devise male-focused treatments with this range”? “Is the smell and packaging too ‘feminine’?” Also, check that the product house

fine lines made into the skin using an ultrafine nano blade. Both techniques are

offers a good, male-orientated retail

smudge proof, sweat proof and a form of cosmetic tattooing. Microblading

range that allows for added up-selling

can give a softer but defined appearance and is perfect for someone who

and also provides a reason for guests

prefers the natural eyebrow look. It is completed with a hand tool and, as the

to return to the spa. Answering these

name suggests, a bladed tool, which comprises a row of fine needles.

simple questions will reap significant

Ombré brows are achieved through a technique that shades the brows

dividends in the future.

with a graduation. This gives a soft, powdered start, sometimes with a few visible strokes at the front, then merges into a defined powder brow. This method is performed with the use of a digital machine and a finepoint needle to implant the pigment into the skin. The result is pixelated brows with a soft shade. In my experience, microblading is definitely an introduction to semipermanent make-up and ombré brows tends to be for clients who Laura Kay is a semipermanent make up artist with 15 years’ industry experience and founder of training and product company Laura Kay London.

often wear eye make-up or like that made-up brow look. Both have their place and we have definitely seen an increase in enquires and bookings in ombré

Olivier Bonnefoy is owner and director of the international male grooming salon chain Gentlemen’s Tonic.

brows of late.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to

051-056 PBJAN19 Ask the Experts.indd 56

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24 February 2019 • The Brewery, London


• Residential Spa of the Year: 11 Rooms or More*

• Nail Salon of the Year

• Residential Spa of the Year: 10 Rooms or Fewer*

• Day Spa of the Year*

• Medical Aesthetic Clinic of the Year

The winners will be announced at a black-tie ceremony on Sunday 24 February at The Brewery, in London. For more information call 0207 351 0536 or email

• Employer of the Year • Therapist of the Year • Nail Professional of the Year • Make-up Specialist of the Year

For more information visit:


PBA19 master 210x297 Jan 19.indd 1

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59 Interview

Talking to...



The Spa at The Midland’s new director talks to Amanda Pauley about her plans for the hotel spa, dealing with the recruitment crisis and partnering with local colleges


ith 10 years’ industry experience under her

“With the hotel changing hands, it’s the perfect

belt, Rebecca Holmes was an obvious choice

time for me to be brought in and lead the vision

to steer the ship at hotel spa The Spa at The

and values from the new investor,” says Holmes.

Midland in Manchester. Having worked for both

“Even though The Midland is the leading spa in the

large hotel groups and independent chains

city centre, I want to make sure we’re always first

in the UK, including Brooklands, Handpicked

when it comes to the latest trends and innovations

and Macdonald, Holmes knows what’s

so we can keep our offer attractive. However, the

needed to take an operation from great to phenomenal. As director of spa, replacing Helena Grzesk – who left to

biggest thing I’ll be focusing on is service and driving it up to the highest level.”

become general manager of the UK Spa Association – Holmes is in charge of managing and recruiting staff,

Setting the standard

overseeing new projects and developing the treatment

Her career history also means that Holmes will

menu. Her appointment in December 2018 came after the

be able to bring the best of both worlds into The

iconic property was sold by owner Aprirose to Swedish

Midland’s experience, as she explains: “Chain hotels

hotel investment company Pandox and Fattal Hotels Group

and spas have brand standards in place that are a

in October for £115 million, with the promise of an £11m

must and this ensures the service level is the same

refurbishment of the hotel.

across the board. However, with independent >

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12/12/2018 09:17



businesses, you can cherry pick the best from different brands and deliver it in your own way, which means there’s more flexibility with what you can do and where you can take your spa. I plan to combine the two at The Midland.” One challenge for Holmes was making her mark as leader, especially as the spa already has a focused, close-knit team

training sessions focused on different scenarios,

who work to strict protocols and has won many awards in

such as increasing retail spend post-treatment and

recent years. “I have to ensure I use

perfecting customer service

Helena’s successes as a benchmark to

at every point in the client

continue to grow the business and make

journey. This will be combined

the position of spa director my own,” she explains. “Charismatic therapists, receptionists and hotel ambassadors are key to this process, so I need to make sure everyone in the operation is on board with my vision.” To achieve this goal, Holmes is planning to host a team day to boost morale and staff relationships, followed with regular

It’s such a challenge trying to find good people who want to work and make a difference

with individual career paths. “When I worked for Macdonald Hotels, I learned the value of continuous education because it offered a wide range of training courses for staff, and this constant learning makes you a better leader. I’m going to incorporate this ethos into

The Midland, but using the communication skills I learned at Handpicked Hotels to execute it – how to explain things clearly and set firm expectations for the team and for the guests in terms of the experience,” explains Holmes. >

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Recruitment is also being addressed this


year, with a plan to raise awareness of the spa by partnering with local colleges.

2008 Holmes takes up the post of therapist on board a Royal Caribbean Cruise Ship 2009 Joins Savill Court Hotel, part of the Macdonald Hotels Group, as senior spa therapist 2010 Moves to Brooklands Hotel as assistant spa manager for the opening team, before returning to Savill Court as spa and health club manager 2012 Appointed spa manager at Brandshatch Place Hotel & Spa, owned by Handpicked Hotels 2014 Returns to Brooklands Hotel in the role of spa manager 2016 Promoted to spa and leisure business development manager at Brooklands Hotel 2018 Appointed director of spa at The Spa at The Midland in Manchester

“There’s such a high staff turnover in hotel spas in general; it’s a real issue,” says Holmes. “It’s such a challenge trying to find

“I developed strong relationships with

good people who want to work and make a

the colleges to help with the recruitment

difference.” Holmes believes one of the

crisis. I used to attend the end-of-year

reasons for the high shift in staff is because

shows as a judge as well as the career days

beauty therapy is hard work and not all those

to get the hotel’s name out there, plus it

entering the industry are aware of that.

was an effective way to help students understand what employers want. I’m

Knowledge sharing

going to do the same thing at The Midland

“At entry level, colleges need to make it clear

as hotel spas need to open themselves up

what the spa and wellness world is about and

as a further education path ,” Holmes adds.

this should hopefully give students a vision of what they want to achieve later down the line.

Striving for greatness

I don’t think colleges are highlighting all the

Shouting about the spa’s achievements

career paths in beauty,” she says. “At the same

is another way Holmes is trying to attract

time, they also need to get the message across

quality staff. The hotel and spa recently

that beauty therapy isn’t easy – it’s not the

won the World Luxury Spa and Restaurant

option to choose when you’re not sure of what

Award 2018 for the best Luxury Urban

you want to do or because you don’t want to

Escape category (Europe) and is

go into higher education.” When working at

shortlisted for the Residential Spa of the

Brooklands Hotel in Weybridge, Holmes

Year: 10 Rooms or Fewer category at the

partnered with local colleges, inviting students

Professional Beauty Awards 2019, taking

to visit the spa to show them that hotels are a

place on Sunday, February 24, at The

viable career path with real opportunities.

Brewery in London. “Entering awards like Professional Beauty’s is so important for employee motivation. It boosts morale, keeps the team energised and attracts talent because you can pitch yourself as the best, and the best will want to work for you,” explains Holmes. “It’s another way to differentiate yourself from competitors, and filling in the extensive forms makes you think of ways you can do things better in your operation.” PB

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24 & 25 Feb 2019 ExCeL London

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06/12/2018 16:56


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24 & 25 Februar y 2019 • ExCeL London

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Professional Beauty London 2019




innovation PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY LONDON will see some of the best brands in the industry unveil their biggest launches for 2019. Here’s just a taster of what you can discover at ExCel

SKINCARE AND SPA Aromatherapy Associates The aromatherapy brand will be back with its wide range of oil blends and skincare for both wellbeing and results. Many of the brand’s wellness experts will also be on stage at the show, including nutrition specialist Yvonne Wake and sleep expert Dr Neil Stanley, both of whom will be on the Nutrition & Wellness Live Stage, talking to visitors about the benefits of creating lifestyle packages for clients and looking after therapist teams.

Hair Gain will also launch at PB London. The nutricosmetic tackles hair thinning and loss and is vegan, vegetarian and halal-approved. It’s packed with a combination of 10 ingredients to promote growth, visibly improve hair density and boost shine.

BeautyLab, Hair Gain & Spongellé Gerrard International will be launching a new skincare range from BeautyLab London. Combining the latest in stem cell science with hero ingredients, the new Youth Elixir range with orchid stem cell technology works hard to reactivate clients’ own skin stem cells, while repairing, improving and supporting vital skin function.

Biologique Recherche The newly launched, professional-only Le Booster VIP O2 product will be available to view at the show, together with the other products in the anti-pollution line. Recommended for depleted and dull skin, the product contains active ingredients to enable cells to “breathe” better.

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The professional skincare brand will be at the show to talk skin therapists through its most popular products and latest launches. These include Biolumin-C Serum, a brightening and firming vitamin C serum with palmitoyl tripeptide-5; Sound Sleep Cocoon overnight gelcream with motion-activated essential oils; and Calm Water Gel, a “weightless”, refreshing formula for dry, sensitive skin with dual hyaluronic acid technology. The brand will also be talking therapists through its treatment approach.

Visit the French skincare brand’s stand to see its latest treatment Lift Summum and learn more about its salon franchising scheme, with experts on hand to talk through the logistics. Sister brand Mary Cohr, targeted at the spa market, will also show its new top-tier anti-ageing treatment the Age Firming Facial, which also has a complementary retail range.

Professional Beauty London 2019


Elemis View and test soothing Pro-Collagen Rose Cleansing Balm, a twist on the brand’s best-selling product, which is formulated with five rose extracts from around the world and melts into a rich cleansing oil to dissolve make-up and impurities on the skin. The brand is also adding a jelly-textured exfoliator, two masks and facial spray – a first ever for Elemis – to its Superfoods range.



The major distributor will be back with innovations from its three brands. Under Advanced Nutrition Programme, IIAA will launch Skin Youth Biome, a probiotic specially formulated for skin health; cosmeceutical brand Environ will showcase its recent launch aimed at stubborn dark spots, Focus Care Radiance+, as well as its product aimed at breakouts, Focus Care Clarity+; and mineral make-up brand Jane Iredale will launch its spring collection.

Supplement saviours Nutraceuticals, supplements that also have medical benefits, are finally being taken seriously in the world of skincare with trusted brands launching products that target skin, nail and hair issues with a stronger focus on the link between gut health and aesthetics. Systems such as the detoxifying seaweed supplements by Voya sister brand Sea Ór, the Skin Youth Biome probiotic by IIAA and new nutri-cosmetic brand Hair Gain, aimed at improving hair growth and boosting shine, are leading the way with other brands forecast to follow suit in the coming months as investment in the market increases.

Image Skincare The advanced skincare brand will be back, showcasing its hero products such as the recent additions to the Vital C line, Hydrating Water Burst, the lightweight gel with antioxidants, hyaluronic acid, vitamins and peptides, and Hydrating Overnight Masque with minerals and blue-green algae extract. Visitors can also try its Yana collagen drink. >

Professional Beauty London takes place on February 24–25 at ExCeL London. The only way to get in for free is to register in advance online at

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Professional Beauty London 2019

68 Murad The new Night Fix Enzyme Treatment will be available on the Murad stand. Perfect for dull, dry and dehydrated skin, the treatment repairs the skin overnight using an anti-ageing peptide which supports natural repair for renewed skin vibrancy as well as containing violet and cedarwood, clinically proven to improve sleep quality.


QMS Medicosmetics

The French marine skincare brand will be back with new innovations. Visitors can also check out some of this year’s big launches from the brand, such as Algodéfense SPF20 Multi-Protective Wrinkle Cream and Citylife Ultra-Cleansing Flash Peel, which fights against skin pollution and has an ultra-fine foam texture that melts on the skin to gently eliminate dead cells and impurities.

Professional skincare brand QMS Medicosmetics will offer visitors a chance to experience a 15-minute oxygenating collagen boost treatment, featuring a cleanse, tone, the brand’s hero collagen treatment, and an algae mask. The brand will also be running a competition for salons nationwide to win a “pop-up” QMS Medicosmetics treatment room within their own businesses.

Sothys New from Sothys is the SS19 make-up collection, featuring six new products. The Bronzing Powder reveals a new Ikatinspired design and soft vanilla scent, while silk-textured Blush in shade Rose Estival gives a radiant finish. Ombre eye quartet palette has four shades in an iridescent finish that offer buildable, long-lasting coverage. New colourway Harmonie de Tons Nude complements Lipstick Pencil in shades Fuchsia Fauve and Rouge Orangé.

Voya Priori The skincare brand will be at the show with distributor Skinbrands, showcasing the new TTC collection. Containing the brand’s exclusive triple turmeric complex, the all-natural skincare line draws on three kinds of turmeric root extracts as well as green tea, grape seed and licorice. The seven products are formulated to have antioxidant, brightening and anti-inflammatory actions on the skin.

The Irish brand will bring its new sister company Sea Ór – a premium range of seaweed supplements – exclusively to the show. The collection comprises Body Cleanse, supplements to detoxify the body, and Hair, Skin and Nails, focused on brightening the skin and encouraging hair and nail growth. Voya will also be showcasing the latest additions to its lifestyle range including the African and Clove and Cedarwood and Bergamot Room Sprays.

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Special delivery

Visitors to the show can be among the first to check out 3D-lipo’s latest machine launch – LaserSculpt. The device offers non-surgical fat reduction and body contouring in as little as 25 minutes, claims the brand. Designed for use on the abdomen, love handles and flanks, the device delivers 1060nm diode laser energy through the epidermis to destroy fat cells. It has controlled temperature technology and offers both clinics and clients competitively priced treatments.

Innovations in technology and product delivery systems are making highly advanced aesthetic treatments more accessible to beauty therapists. Often the preserve of medics, treatments such as serious scar reduction and subcutaneous delivery of hyaluronic acid can now be achieved with minimised risk. The Smart Group’s new Meso-Jet device, for example, allows therapists to automatically deliver a set dose of product subcutaneously every second via a high-pressured device that drives product into the skin without a needle. Therapists can use it to do treatments such as lip volumisation and wrinkle reduction that are comparable to injectables. Meanwhile, Fusion GT’s Biodermogenesi offers an accessible solution to the prolific issue of stretch marks, making treatment faster and more affordable.

Professional Beauty London 2019


machine range. Synergy uses simultaneous photo electrical delivery combining the original CACI facial-toning technology with pulsed LED light stimulation for skin rejuvenation. Visit the stand for exclusive offers, only available at the show.

The Baldan Group Baldan Group will showcase the innovative InfraBaldan 3.0 on the stand. This multi-purpose equipment combines moderate, constant physical activity in the form of aerobic exercise with infrared radiation at precise wavelengths. The result is weight loss, increased fitness and a mood boost for clients.

CACI International CACI will be hosting live demonstrations and showcasing its Synergy system alongside its full

Carlton Professional Meso Lift Pro is a non-invasive machine that eliminates the need for microneedling. It combines both microcurrent and electroporation, enhancing the condition and appearance of the skin as well as improving facial contours. Another highlight on the stand will be the mini facial version of the popular RF Pro ThermaVisage. It’s designed for those who mainly perform facial work, have limited working space or are mobile. >

Professional Beauty London takes place on February 24–25 at ExCeL London. The only way to get in for free is to register in advance online at

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Professional Beauty London 2019

70 Lynton The machines manufacturer will be introducing visitors to its new Onda device, a body-contouring and fat-reduction machine that uses Cool Waves technology by Deka. The machine provides deep penetration to tackle localised fat cells, giving fast shrinkage for noticeable skin tightening.

Phorest Ellipse and Syneron Candela Exhibiting at PB London for the first time since merging with global aesthetic company Syneron Candela, Ellipse will show its full range of devices. Syneron Candela machines will be on the same stand, including the Gentle Max Pro for laser hair removal and body machines VelaShape III and Ultrashape Power.

Fusion GT

Beauty software company Phorest will be showcasing a newly revamped and redesigned Email Marketing Editor. The software allows users to create striking emails with more than 500,000 free graphics and images, as well as detailed analytics that allow you to benchmark your email campaigns against the rest of the industry.

Biodermogenesi will launch into the UK at the show, offering an advanced technique for the treatment of stretchmarks. The machine uses electromagnetic energy and vacuum technology to increase oxygenation, rebuild Type III collagen, recover toxins and restructure damaged cells within the skin. It’s being lauded as a game-changer for therapists who can now offer advanced scar reduction.

Laser Lipo Laser Lipo will be exhibiting its aesthetic device, Strawberry Lift, which combines class-three lasers with silent ultrasound, lifting the face and neck in one non-invasive procedure. Laser Lipo will also be offering free treatments on its stand, with downtime of just 12 minutes.

The Smart Group The distributor is launching a new device that allows therapists to perform needle-free injectable treatments. Meso Jet delivers a set dosage (0.03 or 0.05ml) of product into the skin. Find out more on page 106. Also on stand will be new versions of the popular Accor plasma pen, including the MD for medics, and the LF, available for therapists from Level 2, which works at a lower energy and doesn’t damage the skin’s basal layer. The group will also bring laser hair removal from the Cosmedico and Hair No More brands.

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Bio Sculpture

Summer of love

Debuting its rebrand to Renew Beauty from Bio Sculpture UK, the distributor will be showcasing its redesigned Bio Gel jar. Also on stand will be new nail polish range Gemini, created to match Bio Sculpture Gel shades. The polishes feature a thick bristle brush for even application and precise product control, and come in a square bottle, containing a blend of aloe vera, lemon and ginseng to harden nails. The polishes are billed as fast drying and long lasting.

SS19 will see nails go back to summery basics. The fun, fresh shades in Jessica’s Tea Party and Blushing Beauty collections, such as pale yellow Yellow Meringue and refreshing soft green Love You Very Matcha, invoke the unfussy, laidback atmosphere of the warmer months. Meanwhile, Ez Flow’s six-piece ’90s-inspired line harks back to carefree summers gone by. The mix of glitters and brights with throwback names are sure to be a hit with clients wanting to move away from intricate designs and back to simple manis in colours that pop.

Professional Beauty London 2019


Nail Harmony Ez Flow Check out Ez Flow’s six-piece The 90’s Recollection, made up of multi-coloured glitters and brights. Inspired by the iconic style and flair of the ’90s, the range features fiery red Punchy Scrunchy, royal purple Crop Top Secret, bright green My Beeper’s A Keeper, pastel orange Tamagotcha!, cream nude Clueless Is More, and glitter Whatchamacallit. The range is available in gel-polish and dip shades.

Jessica Ready for spring, see the new “feel good” colours in Jessica’s Custom Colour, Geleration and Phenom collections. Jessica’s Tea Party collection is an array of pretty pastel delicacies, while the new Phenom Blushing Beauty collection showcases this season’s most flattering blush shades to suit every skin tone.

Louella Belle Louella Belle will be bringing brands Artistic Nail Design, Morgan Taylor, Famous Names and Seche to the show. The Louella Belle education team will be demonstrating the latest collections and technologies and will be on hand to answer any questions. Linda Nordstrom, co-founder of Famous Names will be demonstrating IBX and IBX boost. The spring collections from both Artistic and Morgan Taylor will also be launching at the show.

New from Gelish will be the 18G Unplugged High Performance LED Light, which is portable and powered by an LG lithium battery. It’s designed to be ideal for five, 30, or 60-second settings and has “Intelligent Power Assist” for consistent, highperformance batterypowered curing. Educators will be on hand to demo recent launches such as the Art Form Gels, designed to allow techs to perfect a one-stroke technique using a gel product.

OPI Professional OPI fans can check out the brand’s yet-to-be-revealed SS19 colour collection at the show, in traditional Lacquer, long wear system Infinite Shine and gel-polish Gel Color. Also on stand will be OPI’s range of natural nail care products, including treatments and strengtheners, top and base coats, nail polish removers and finishers. The Pro Spa line of “skincare” for hands and feet will also be available for techs to try out, formulated with cupuacu superfruit and white tea extracts. >

Professional Beauty London takes place on February 24–25 at ExCeL London. The only way to get in for free is to register in advance online at

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Professional Beauty London 2019

72 MAKE UP, LASHES & BROWS The Eyelash Design Company The Eyelash Design Company will debut products including the iRevive collection and a brand new style of magnetic lashes, the Natalia. Brands Lash Perfect, Hi Brow, Brow Perfect Microblading, Lash FX, Brow FX and tanning line St Moriz will be there, with live demonstrations and special offers across the whole range of professional and retail products.

Mii Visitors will find exclusive launches at Gerrard International’s Mii stand, including the Velvet Radiance Face Base, a satin-finish perfecting foundation with skin-kind ingredients available in 16 shades. Alongside this, Mii will unveil its new spring and bridal beauty campaign imagery, demonstrating the brand’s diverse appeal. In addition, there will be demos of the professional Brow by Mii and Kissed by Mii services, including the new express brow treatments.

TREND WATCH All Inclusive As the shade inclusivity movement continues to grow in the make-up industry, the pro brands are following suit by offering a wider range of diverse colour options than ever before. Mii Cosmetics is unveiling its new foundation range Velvet Radiance Face Base at the show – a collection of satin-finish perfecting foundations available in 16 shades – and will also be talking about its customisation approach to be used in salon. Visitors can also get a first look at French brand Sothys’ SS19 make-up collection Summer Chill. For lash artists, slick gadgets that make extension application easier are hot, with The Eyelash Emporium showcasing its fast setting Master Artist Adhesive and Novalash bringing humidity gauge Aura, which helps speed up the curing time.

The Eyelash Emporium Check out the company’s extension products, including fast-setting Master Artist Adhesive, ideal for advanced classic and volume lash artists; and two new volume lash styles: Opening Curtain, which have a waved based that mimics the ripple of a curtain, and ShowTime, which create a fluffy, wispy effect. The brand will also be talking visitors through its Classic Individual, Special Effects XD Russian Volume and GDL Lash Lift training.

Novalash The lash extensions brand will return, showcasing its most popular products, including The Reflector, a stainless steel mirror that allows artists to see clients’ lashes from all angles; and humidity gauge Aura, which helps techs control their room temperature, influencing the speed and effectiveness of extension services. There will also be demonstrations of the brand’s training techniques and experts on hand to talk through the courses.

WAXING & TANNING Fake Bake Tanning experts will be on hand to offer tips and advice, alongside demos, at the Fake Bake stand. View products such as the reformulated and relaunched Gold, one of Fake Bake’s most popular salon products, alongside the Double Dark for a deeper glow. This is the line’s darkest tan, designed to create maximum impact.

JK Group Distributor JK Group will be showcasing many of its core brands – sunbed company Ergoline and professional tanning ranges Norvell and Versa Spa. Ergoline tanning beds on display will include the Prestige Lightvision, Affinity 990 and Sunrise 7200 Hybrid Light LED, while visitors can get their hands on Norvell tanning’s Ultra Vivid Color Collection and meet brand ambassador Yazmin Oukellou, star of ITVBe’s The Only Way is Essex. PB

Professional Beauty London takes place on February 24–25 at ExCeL London. The only way to get in for free is to register in advance online at

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Professional Beauty London 2019



Advance your skills at Professional Beauty London with our stand-out education line-up, which includes Live Stages, seminars and sector-specific conferences

ant to hear from industry experts about how to increase your salon’s profit, boost team morale and introduce the latest treatment technologies to your menu? Then you need to check out the learning opportunities on offer at Professional Beauty London on February 24–25.

Returning to London ExCel, the show has a jam-packed education programme that covers all sectors and issues, from troubleshooting demos to debates on wider industry challenges. However, places are limited, so get yourself booked into our Live Stages, seminars and conferences ASAP.

LIVE STAGES AND SEMINARS We pride ourselves on our educational offering which is why we’ve tailored our programme to give you even more chances to improve your skills and change your business for the better. This year we have four Live Stages – Advanced Treatments, covering the latest advanced procedures; Warpaint, top advice on how to build a successful career in make-up artistry; Professional Beauty, showcasing the hottest beauty trends; and Nutrition & Wellness, exploring therapist wellbeing and beauty-from-within concepts.

We also have three informative seminar programmes – Business Skills, providing helpful business solutions; How to…, demos on everything from bridal make-up to tanning troubleshooting; and Digital Skills, with pros explaining the digital skills you need to make your business big online. Live Stages and Seminars cost £5 per session or £1 for students. Exec Club and Luxe Pass delegates get a 50% discount. Book at:

SALON & SPA NETWORKING LUNCH Having proven a huge hit at the 2018 Professional Beauty North show in Manchester, the Salon & Spa Networking Lunch will be making its London debut at the show, with an even greater focus on the issues that matter to you. The forum is your chance to discuss challenges and share solutions with senior figureheads on problems such as staff management, retailing, recruitment and how to respond to cut-price rivals. Each discussion will be hosted by an experienced salon or spa owner, who will initiate the topic and moderate the discussion. Attendees

will also receive lunch, gifts from the event sponsors and a champagne reception to finish. Tickets cost £25+VAT. Book at: professionalbeauty.

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WORLD SPA & WELLNESS CONVENTION This year’s WSW Convention is packed with content to help spa owners grow their businesses, presenting the latest facts, figures and trends set to impact your operation. The two-day conference, taking place within the Professional Beauty

London show, features 50 industry speakers and is split into two streams – Stream A: The business of spa, providing practical solutions to help operators tackle real issues, and Stream 1: Wellness, which focuses on improving outcomes for clients as a key to customer acquisition and retention. Also new for 2019 are the “Situation Rooms”, where owners of day spas, hotel spas and resorts spas can take part in roundtable discussions on ramping up a successful opening and managing a strategic turnaround. This year’s event sponsors are: Elemis, BC Softwear, Gharieni, Lemi and A one-day pas costs £165+VAT and a two-day pass is £ 247+VAT. Book at:

Professional Beauty London 2019


EDUCATION FORUM Now in its fifth year, the Education Forum offers unparalleled insight into the demands on the beauty education sector. The one-day programme, taking place on Monday, February 25, in association with standards-setting body Habia, aims

A full-day ticket costs £10. Book at:

to connect college heads with key industry employers to discuss ways to better prepare students entering the sector. Discussions on how to raise industry standards and meet changing employer demands will take place. The forum is sponsored by awarding body VTCT and professional skincare brand Eve Taylor.


The International Manufacturers & Distributors Forum (IMF) is returning to the show, giving brand owners, distributors and retailers from around the world the opportunity to network in an engaging but informal setting. The two-day conference, sponsored by British skincare brand Elemis, will provide a unique insight into the global beauty industry, with leaders sharing their experience, as well as giving distributors and manufacturers the chance to make valuable contacts. A one-day ticket costs £145+VAT, two-day ticket £195+VAT. Book at:

DON’T MISS: HJ Live London and Active Wellness PB London is also the place to be if you want to discover the hottest hair looks for 2019. Hairdressers can try the latest products, watch live demos and meet their favourite creative teams – all happening in our dedicated hair area, HJ Live London. This year, we’re also launching our first-ever fitness focused event Active Wellness at the Professional Beauty show, with a forum that allows spa operators to interact with the fitness community. There will be exhibitors and live fitness demos.

Professional Beauty London is taking place at ExCel London on February 24–25. Register for your free ticket:

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Professional Beauty London 2019



professional TOUCH

With competitions for make-up, lash and nail pros, there are plenty of opportunities to shine at Professional Beauty London 2019

International Nail Championships The best techs in the industry will demonstrate their nail art, manicure and permanent polish skills, in the one-day championships taking place at PB London at ExCel on Sunday February 24. There are no student categories this year. Categories: • Mixed Media Boxed Nail Art • Pink & White Competition Style • Salon Nail • Permanent Polish • Photographic Classic: Pop Art Theme • Photographic Nail Art: Pop Art Theme • One Stroke Nail Art Boxed • New Dip Systems • Nail Masters Heat Entry: £25

Lash Championships The first ever London Lash Championships are taking place at ExCeL this year, celebrating the UK’s best lash artists. The championships, which launched at PB North last year, are a platform to support the growing lash industry and shine a spotlight on the attention to detail required to be at the top of the game. Categories and Divisions: •C  lassic: Expert, Professional and Novice divisions •R  ussian 3D & 4D: Expert, Professional and Novice divisions •N  ew Volume: Expert, Professional and Novice divisions Professionals: £75; Students: £15

Warpaint Make-up Championships Make-up artists are invited to demonstrate their creativity at this year’s Warpaint Make-up championships. This year’s categories reflect the diversity of the industry, ranging from evening prom looks to the world of witchcraft and wizardry. Categories and themes: • Runway: Ossie Clark • Real Beauty: Prom Queen – one model, two looks, four key products • Film & TV: Magical Folk – the world of “a certain boy wizard” • Bodypainting: Inspired by Walt Disney movies Professionals: £25, students: £10

COLLEGE CUP This sought-after award will be given to the highest-placing college across the Warpaint make-up categories. They are awarded points for students who place first, second and third, with the establishment with the highest total taking home a prize.

Entries for all three championships are open at

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24 & 25 Febr uar y 2019 • ExCeL London

Where ambition is formed and goals achieved Show off your skills and gain industry recognition by entering the lash, make-up and nail championships at Professional Beauty London

Find out more at www.professional championships

Compete and be in with a chance to win up to £1,000 in the college cup GET INVOLVED #PBLondon

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PB Awards


s ’ n o i t a nbest THE


he most glamorous night in the beauty and spa calendar is back as the Professional Beauty Awards 2019 return to London on February 24. The black-tie gala dinner event celebrates the leading spas, salons, clinics and individual practitioners from every corner of the UK, as well as welcoming the best international spas for the World Spa & Wellness Awards, which runs alongside. Judged by a panel of industry experts, the awards are designed to raise the profile of the businesses and individuals that are leading the way with inspirational client journeys, innovative and profitable business models, diverse treatment offers, and a clear commitment to the development of themselves, their teams and the industry as a whole.

The Professional Beauty Awards 2019 will welcome the best businesses from across the UK to London in February. Be there to network with them by securing your ticket

The event is held at Grade II-listed venue The Brewery and begins with a champagne reception, followed by a three-course meal with entertainment, presentation of the trophies and a late-night after-party. The event takes place alongside the World Spa & Wellness Awards and collectively they welcome more than 800 top industry professionals to network, party and celebrate the amazing work that goes on in the industry every day. Tickets are available for ÂŁ149 +VAT, or ÂŁ1,490 +VAT for a table of 10. Last year the event sold out completely, so be sure to secure your ticket at

With thanks to our sponsors:

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2019 Trends


FUTURE focus After a year of disruption and big shifts in consumer behaviour taking hold, what lies ahead for the industry in 2019? GEORGIA SEAGO finds out

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2019 Trends


BEAUTY & SPA – super sustainability 2018 was merely the launchpad for the plastic-free movement, gaining

customers, too. NPD expects to see

momentum every day the world

brands vying for the custom of

circumstances there is no need for

over. In December of last year,

eco-conscious beauty consumers

salons to use water.

analyst Mintel named “sub-zero

with their ever-impressive green

Becky Woodhouse, chief executive

waste” as 2019’s biggest beauty

credentials, and so it seems that

of Pure Spa & Beauty, which has eight

industry trend, supported by

salons and spas too will have to join

locations across the UK, agrees that

consumers’ growing consciousness

the movement with authenticity and

beauty businesses will have to step

of the impact of natural disasters

shout about their efforts to retain

up and start taking accountability for

and dwindling water resources


the wastage they create. “We’re going to see a big backlash from

around the world.

Water works

clients against excess packaging and

focused on more than plastic-

Sustainability doesn’t start and finish

packaging you can’t recycle. We

reduction initiatives moving forward.

with plastic though, and forecasters

should be prepared for clients to start

Instead, the analyst said beauty and

are also predicting a huge focus on

asking questions about our

personal care brands will develop

water usage in 2019. Global trends

sustainability policies,” she says.

innovative ways of managing true

forecaster J. Walter Thompson

sustainability at every step of the

Intelligence said in its The Future 100:

thing though and believes that

supply chain.

2019 report that questions will be

pressure from clients will help salons

raised in every area of life as to the

and spas realise their potential when

The NPD Group revealed that some

necessity of using water. The report

it comes to the bigger picture.

beauty brands were looking into

highlights a New York nail salon chain

“Salons can play a big role in reducing

vegetable-derived packaging options

called Glosslab that has begun

packaging waste. We have the power

to solve the plastic packaging

offering waterless pedicures on the

to put pressure on our suppliers to do

problem beauty and personal care

grounds that water increases the

away with excess packaging, because

products contribute to massively –

likelihood of the spread of bacteria,

clients will be thinking twice about

and improve their ranking with

as well as underpinning the salon

buying something that comes with

owner’s belief that in most

lots of wrapping and boxes they’ll just

Mintel predicted that efforts will be

Consumer market researcher

Woodhouse sees this as a positive

immediately throw away,” she says. >

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2019 Trends


AESTHETICS – trauma-free innovations The advanced treatments sector saw huge growth in 2018,

piece of equipment that can have

supported by RealSelf statistics

very negative responses.”

released in November that revealed

Hansford believes that treatments

rejuvenation, hypertrophic scarring, keloids and vaginal rejuvenation.

68% of young Brits were planning

such as mesotherapy, which he says

on undergoing an aesthetic

is “massive in every country apart

rid of scars and stretchmarks we

treatment in the next 12 months.

from here”, will begin to gain favour,

need to cause wounds and trauma,”

with clients who don’t want an

says Hansford. “But with this it’s not

in terms of safe and effective

aggressive approach or downtime

causing the trauma and is instead

devices that will allow beauty

willing to put in the time. “A few years

getting the body to reactivate its

therapists to achieve impressive

ago people didn’t care about causing

natural processes. And the great

results for clients within their remit

a lot of trauma through the skin and if

thing about it is that because you’re

and without veering into medical

it meant they got the results they

not causing any trauma, therapists

territory. It’s an area skin expert

wanted instantly, but that’s

can do it, aside from the keloid and

and director of Fusion Aesthetic

completely changed now,” he says.

vaginal treatments.”

confident will develop into an even

New horizons

therapists in aesthetics looks bright.

more profitable one for skin

Hansford is particularly interested in a

We may well expect to see further

therapists in 2019, with a shift in

new-to-the-UK device that is

innovation in non-invasive

clients’ understanding of what it

garnering attention for its ability to

technologies that allow the

takes to achieve great skin coupled

almost completely remove and

wound-healing response to be

with technological innovations that

re-pigment stretchmarks. It works by

completely bypassed, increasing

completely do away with trauma

pumping sodium and potassium

the opportunities for therapists.

and downtime.

across the cell membranes, nourishing

The market is ripe for innovation

Academy Andrew Hansford is

“Instant gratification has

“We’ve always thought that to get

The future for advanced

“This kind of device is a great

the cells and fibroblast, triggering

thing to be able to offer clients;

disappeared. Clients are starting to

collagen and elastin regeneration.

knowing that you can do a

realise that skin health is number

This is combined with a vacuum-

treatment in 15 to 20 minutes with

one,” says Hansford. “So with

massage system to stimulate oxygen

no trauma and you can show

techniques like mesotherapy, which

and nutrients in the blood and

clinical studies, data, white papers

is non-invasive and can be done by

kick-start cellular metabolism to

and case studies,” says Hansford,

beauty therapists, it takes a little bit

release toxins from the body.

adding: “Clients in the UK

of time but the body is regenerating

Originally developed for

increasingly want manufacturers to

itself naturally rather than that

stretchmarks, Italian machine

stand behind their equipment and

process being done by an aggressive

Biodermogenesi also has

prove the credentials rather than

applications for body firming, facial

just giving them a sales pitch about how amazing the machine is.” >

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2019 Trends


NAILS – Commercial, cost-effective techniques SS19 in nails will be defined by one colour – red. Session tech Marian Newman led the nail teams

exactly a new trend, Newman says

backstage at key shows for the

she has recently seen stamping

season and reported seeing the

with chrome pigments really start

Education Programme of

red spectrum explored in depth

to take off in salons as techs perfect

workshops across the country

across the fashion weeks. “I think

their technique and realise how

beginning in the spring. “We’ll be

we’ll see a lot of brands coming out

quick and cost-effective it is to do.

teaching proper technique so nail

with red colour collections for the

“It’s so commercial and effective.

pros can be completely confident in

season, but it’s about finding the

Whenever you see a client’s face as

offering crystals with staying

right red and exploring all the

you’re burnishing chrome pigment

power. I think people are going to

different tones. It’s not good

into gel polish, they can’t take their

go crazy for it,” she says.

enough to have one red in a

eyes away, and it’s done in

collection, it has to be 10 or 15,”

seconds,” says Newman. It’s this

Chemical concerns

says Newman.

demand for a little nail art flair

The final – but possibly most

An everlasting favourite,

important – change Newman

Newman believes this red

wants techs to take notice of

re-working is

in 2019 are the discussions

testament to what

taking place in the

clients really

European Commission

want. “At Roland

around the safety of

Mouret models were

ingredients commonly found

asked to choose their own nail

in professional nail products. “I

colour and it was really interesting

rather than intricate, competition-

think we’ll get some sort of decision

that the vast majority chose either

worthy designs that she predicts

in 2019 in regards to some

red or nude,” she says. “There were

will also spark a fresh focus on

ingredients potentially being

lots of different reds at Gareth


banned, and that is going to have a

Pugh too; one design was red

“I think we will see more

huge impact,” says Newman. “At

topped with red Swarovski

embellishment with crystals for the

the very least there might be extra

crystals, and at Mary Katrantzou it

same reasons as chrome; it’s quick

regulations, which will affect a lot of

was the only colour in collection of

to do, not too expensive for the

products on the market in the UK.”

clear, glass-like nails.”

technician and there are so many

She refers particularly to HEMA

different, subtle ways to make a

(hydroxyethyl methacrylate), which

looks set for simple but show-

statement with crystals in a

she says is “in 90% of all nail

stopping manicures. While not

manicure.” It’s for these reasons

products and likely to be banned”,

that Newman will head up a

and MMA (methyl methacrylate

certified Swarovski Crystal Beauty

monomers), “which are still used in

Client demand throughout 2019

many liquid and powder systems in the UK.” PB

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Lasers & IPL


Seeing THE


As men increasingly covet the hair-free look, there’s huge opportunity for expanding your laser hair removal services, writes Fiona Vlemmiks


hereas growing a crop of thick chest hair was once a sign of “becoming a man�, the male body ideal is now decidedly less hirsute. More than ever, men are being assailed with images of male celebrities sporting gleamingly hairless bodies, with Love Island stars such as Wes Nelson and Adam Collard renowned for showing off their silky-smooth torsos. In fact, a recent report by industry analyst Mintel showed that 46% of British men aged 16-24 removed hair from their bodies in 2018, up from just over a third (36%) two years earlier. The study also revealed that 57% waxed or lasered their pubic area in 2018, compared to 40% previously, while 42% of males removed hair from their underarms, up from 16%, and the number of guys removing hair from the chest doubled from 15% to 30%.

Interestingly, the research also highlighted that men aged 16-24 are removing body hair almost as much as young women of the same age, with similar proportions of both (29% of men versus 34% of women) removing hair more frequently in the past 12 months.

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Lasers & IPL


With male hair in general thicker and coarser, increased pain levels and the possibility of ingrown hairs are more likely for men waxing and shaving than they are with women, making laser or IPL a very viable option. “Male laser and IPL hair removal treatments are becoming increasingly popular to minimise hair reduction, reduce ingrowing hairs and decrease maintenance,” says Dr Samantha Hills, clinical director at Lynton Lasers. “Our clinics across the UK have seen a surge in demand from male clients requesting laser or IPL hair removal in 2018. An average of 17% of clinic patients are male. Laser and IPL successfully achieves between 60 – 95% reduction from an average of six hair removal sessions. Popular

treatment areas for men include the face, chest, underarms, lower back or the pubic region.”

Opportunity knocks Phoebe Cowley, marketing and events manager at 3D-lipo, which supplies the 3D-Trilogy Ice laser hair removal machine, says no extra training or special treatment protocol is needed for businesses expanding their laser hair removal services to include the male market. “With laser, we always have to work on colour, so we need some pigment in the hair whether it is male or female,” she says. “There is no difference between male and female in terms of the structure or growth patterns but a male will generally have more follicles per square >

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Lasers & IPL


prevent the incidence of ingrowing hairs on the face, neck and jawline areas,” she says. “The newer laser technologies allow for quicker and less painful treatments, perfect for male clients.”

Marketing to men

centimetre than a female, so they will have more hair. There are no differences in treatment protocols because all the follicles work in the same way and each growth pattern is similar whether it’s male or female. “There are three different cycles of hair growth: anagen, catagen and telogen. Men and women go through the same cycle so as far as treating and getting results you still have to follow the same process. It’s always recommended to do a course of sessions, generally monthly, to get the best results for both men and women.” In fact, Cowley says treating men can sometimes be simpler and more effective than treating hirsute females. “Another difference is that with female hair, although it is normally a cosmetic hair growth that you’re treating, it could also be hair hormonal growth, whereas gents don’t really have hormonal hair growth. So potentially, it would actually be easier to treat men.”

To successfully attract male clients, it is important to consider revising your marketing strategies, ensuring promotional material is suitably targeted to them. Creating dedicated treatment brochures or menus showing images of men rather than women, and giving clear treatment prices for the areas typically required by men such as the back or beard area is advisable. Dr Ian Hallam, director of the Smart Group, which supplies the Cosmedico laser range and the Hair No More concept, says: “Clinics that are successfully marketing treatments to male clients are doing so via dedicated male treatment price lists, advertising treatments with names such as the Brokini and Brozillian.” To grasp the attention of males, Hallam suggests hosting male-only events at your salon, spa or clinic. “This allows men to come along, see a treatment in action and ask questions in a non-threatening environment.” With the trend for smooth skin showing no sign of abating, and considering that no expenditure on additional training is needed, slotting male treatments into your existing laser services could be a simple and inexpensive route to profit. PB

The ouch factor The Mintel statistics further indicate that the hipster beard trend shows no evidence of waning, with 44% of men claiming to have some stubble, 20% a closely trimmed beard and 7% a thick, full beard. Yet keeping facial hair well groomed via shaving or waxing can be a painful experience for men when compared to using the newest, virtually pain-free lasers or IPL technologies. Hills says: “The increased number of male clients in our clinics are predominantly requesting treatment to shape their beards but also to help

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Lasers & IPL


MACHO machines We take a look at the best pain-free laser and IPL options for treating men

Fibra DFA

Triology Ice

The Fibra DFA is a hairremoval device from The Baldan Group that can be used to treat every skin type. The laser light is emitted from the machine rather than the handpiece, meaning the heat on application is eliminated, equaling a “totally painless” treatment, according to the brand. Perfect for using on men’s sensitive areas, the light produced by the multiple diodes is concentrated in one pulse and transferred uniformly and directly to the hair, ensuring the treatment is quick and efficient. £38,900 07852970579

An attractive option for sporty men, the Triology Ice from 3D-lipo is suitable for treating all hair types year round – even in summer. Launched in 2018, the device combines the proven benefits of three wavelengths in a single handpiece. Rather than exposing the hair follicle to single energy pulses, the Triology Ice works by gradually heating the dermis and damaging the hair follicles without injuring the surrounding tissue. The applicator is moved over the treatment area quickly, while the cooling system ensures that the treatment is comfortable. £25,000 01788 550440

Skin Pulse SHR Great for busy men, the Cosmedico Skin Pulse SHR uses rapid pulses of selected wavelengths of light at low energy with a gentle, incremental heating process to improve comfort, while the skin is cooled to -4ºC. The SHR handpiece, with its “slide and glide” application over the body ensures that treatment times are reduced by up to 66%. Cosmedico says the system is suitable for use on Asian and black skins. Lease purchase from £16 per day 01344 411480

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Lasers & IPL



LightSheer Desire The Lumenis LightSheer Desire is ideal for sensitive skin. Two technologies work in tandem: vacuumassisted, high-speed integrated technology and Lumenis’s ChillTip cooling system. ChillTip offers epidermal protection during laser treatment and also increases efficacy and patient comfort as it takes heat away from the area being treated. The device has three handpieces to treat any body area, including the back and chest. Price on application 020 8736 4110

The Diolaze’s large treatment spot size means hair-removal sessions can be performed quickly and easily on men’s backs and chests. The device has a large built-in skin-cooling surface for optimum client comfort, and the machine can be used on most areas of the body. The diode pulse guide scanner and high pulse repetition rate at all energy levels ensure a reduction in treatment time. The machine is powerful enough to target and treat stubborn hair and skin types up to VI on the Fitzpatrick scale, says the manufacturer. From £49,000 020 8965 2594 (Inmode)

Motus AY The Motus AY uses a true alexandrite laser, employing Lynton’s specialist Moveo “pain-free” technology that can be used on all skin types including tanned, not just the traditional Fitzpatrick I to III. The Motus AY concentrates laser energy through a 20mm contact-cooled sapphire tip with ultra-short pulse durations – suitable for treating more challenging fine and fair hair. Price on application 01477 536977

Thunder MT A blended alexandrite and Nd:YAG laser device, the Thunder MT offers 755nm and 1064nm wavelengths in both a single or combined emission. The technology is suitable for men of all skin types and ethnicities, while the handpiece’s spot shape has been designed for minimal overlapping, covering a skin area similar to a square spot and bigger than a round spot. Distributor Advanced Esthetics Solutions says it’s possible to complete a full body treatment in one hour – great for guys on the go. £68,950 0292 023 1228 (Advanced Esthetics Solutions)

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Launch Analysis


Young AT



A new salon targeted at generation Z and millennials has landed in West London. LYDIA MORMEN pays a visit

ocated strategically in the Westbourne Grove area of Notting Hill, Young LDN sits on a road nestled among luxury stores and boutique coffee shops, the missing piece to a puzzle that epitomises fashionable, young London. The concept of a salon targeting gen-Z and millennials was birthed from a mother’s frustration when looking for a place where her son felt comfortable and happy to receive treatment for his acne. “My son’s skin became a huge focus for me. I took him to clinics all over London and although the treatments worked, getting him to go was such a struggle that eventually I just stopped taking him because it was just so unpleasant,” says Sue Carroll, founder of Young LDN. Looking back to the time, around five years prior, when her son was struggling with problematic skin, she recalls one occasion where he had a severe breakout and she was told that it would be three months before he would be able to get an appointment with a dermatologist. “I wanted to be there for my son and help him but I just didn’t know where to turn or what to do. I thought to myself that there must be a place that mums can trust,” says Carroll.

From concept to creation “Our offering is geared towards providing an experience, while still delivering results-driven treatments. We realised that there needed to be a place where younger people could go and feel like they belonged and were safe. This then developed to the fact that if a parent is taking a child to an appointment, we could offer them a place to get the treatments they needed as well,” says Carroll. Young LDN

spans 2,500sqft across two floors, split into The Lounge ground floor space, and The Lab in the basement. The Lounge is designed as a one-stop shop for all things grooming, hosting nail, blow dry, peel and make-up bars. This area is designed as an experimental, all-in-one space with generation Z and their parents in mind. “We know people are short of time, so to do everything in one place makes the whole experience easier. We want parents to be able to get their monthly manicure or a blow dry while their child is downstairs getting an acne treatment they can trust. It means clients aren’t spending precious time running from one place to another or hanging around waiting,” says Carroll. One of the challenges the team had was making sure that The Lab, a space that focuses on expert skincare, didn’t feel clinical so gen Z and millennials feel welcome and even enjoy their treatment, for sometimes sensitive conditions. Each of the four treatment rooms is decorated with a different theme. For example, the Notting Hill treatment room has murals of London landmarks on the walls, while the London Park room has a more peaceful atmosphere, with sky-blue walls and a faux grass ceiling. “We worked with a great design company called LXA

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Launch Analysis


that did everything in house, from branding to designing the space. They got what we wanted straight away and that was so important to us,” says Carroll.

The perfect package

As well as The Young Collective, Young LDN also wants to create an environment where young people can learn, inviting make-up experts in to give workshops. The Young Signature Facial is coined as “an introduction to the world of skincare” and is designed to teach teenagers to properly cleanse and care for their skin from a young age.

As well as offering one-off treatments, Young Future plans LDN has also decided to offer clients the Although the salon has been created with young opportunity to join The Young Collective, a people in mind Carroll is keen to stress that there is monthly subscription service no definition of young in their where people can pay for a eyes. “We love being in a Size: 2,500sq ft collection of treatments at a residential area because the Brands: AQ Skin Solutions, Bio discounted price. “So many intention was always to attract Sculpture, Circadia, CND, people are feeling lonely in this families. We didn’t want to be in Dermaceutic, Endocare, Glo, ZO generation and this is something an area with just business Therapists: Six (on opening) we hope we can help with by people or just young Facilities: Nail, peel, blow-dry and providing packages. We want professionals, we wanted to be make-up bars, four treatment rooms our customers to feel like they a destination space for people for aesthetic treatments including are part of a collective of of all ages,” she says. laser hair removal, LED facials and like-minded people, and once we The plan for the new brand is microneedling have regulars, we want to be able that as the salon attracts to give something back so that customers, they too will invest they know we appreciate them as much as they in the idea of being part of the collective. Carroll appreciate us,” says Carroll. says, “We want people to feel that they are part of There are two packages in The Young our tribe and to grow with us. This is reflected in our Collective. The Lounge membership costs £180 treatments; for example, we offer different options per month and includes two LED treatments, for hair removal, so parents can bring a child for their two manicures, one pedicure, two peels and first sugaring treatment but as they get older they unlimited brow maintenance. The second option, can move on to laser, whereas a 30-year-old might The Lab package, includes one Spectra begin regular light peels to maintain their youthful Hollywood Peel or Revital Treatment, one Young skin then move on to something more intense as they LDN Signature Peel, One LED treatment, and start to notice signs of ageing. We want people of all one classic mani and pedi each month for £380. age groups joining us and working up through our Carroll says, “We didn’t ever want to be various programmes,” she explains. unaffordable so we looked across the whole “The ultimate goal of the salon is to create a space range. Of course, we have a high rental so we that everyone can enjoy,” says Carroll. “I wanted to couldn’t be as reasonable as we would have launch this initiative because it was something that liked, but we kept the prices as low as we could was missing for me as a mother and for my son and I without making a loss. We created the packages knew there was a need for it. I just hope people will with young people in mind.” get that need fulfilled here.” PB

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24 & 25 Febr uar y 2019 • ExCeL London

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Orly launches “extension innovation” Tipped to be its biggest launch of 2019, Orly has developed an “all-in-one” nailextension product. The new Gelfx Builder in a Bottle is a soak-off sculpting gel that the brand says applies like a soft gel, wears like a hard gel, and is removed by soaking. The system negates the need for separate pots and brushes, aiming to cut the waste, mess and time often associated with traditional nail extensions. Jeff Pink, Orly’s chief executive, commented, “The industry was past due for a game changer in the nail-extension arena. Orly is proud to continue to lead through innovation with the Gelfx Builder in a Bottle.”

Nail News


NAIL BITES A male nail room opens and an “all-in-one” extension product grabs the industry’s attention this month MANIS FOR MEN Aldwyn & Sons has opened what it claims is the UK’s first mani/pedi room for for men, within barber shop Sharps in Fitzrovia, London. Under the tagline The Modern Footman, the business offers a range of gents’ manicures and pedicures in an environment inspired by vintage “speakeasy” design. Founder Aldwyn Boscawen commented:

5 minutes with

Agnes Dullo, owner of Nails by Agnes in Bognor Regis, an INK London educator and Nailympia winner who gave up a teaching career to pursue her passion for nails. I started in the nail industry in 2009 when I signed up for a nail technician and hairdresser course. At the time, I was teaching biology and looking for work that I could do in the evenings and weekends. I was mostly interested in the hair part of the course at the beginning, but soon realised that I loved nails. A couple of years later I was doing nails full time.

“Men’s grooming, particularly the feet, is often overlooked and can have a significant impact on a man’s overall wellbeing. It was in searching for somewhere to have a pedicure myself that a gap in the market was spotted – a nail salon really wasn’t for me and there was little else on the market to address my unsightly, coarse and at times uncomfortable feet.”

The biggest moment of my nail career was being accepted as an INK London educator and the latest highlight is winning eight medals at Nailympia London last year. My all time favourite look is the French manicure. Whether it is done with gel polish, hard gel or acrylic, it’s a look that never goes out of style. My biggest inspiration is my clients. I love working together with them to achieve the look that they want, from a simple colour to over-the-top glitzy creations. My goal for the future is to take part in more competitions and maybe place in a few of them. nailsbyagnesdullo @agnesdullo

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Nail News


SALON SPOTLIGHT Chloe Cordelia Nails & Beauty, Leeds Opened: March 2018 Techs: “Just me, myself and I – currently.” Product house: CND Interior design vibe: “Chic, antique, classic and cosy.” USP: “I’m upstairs in a very busy high-street hair salon. I provide a cosy, bijou hideaway above the hustle and bustle; somewhere a client can come and really relax. We often call my little room the “living room” of the salon. It has a very warm aura. “I offer something for every nail type and lifestyle. Nail polish, CND’s Shellac, Brisa Gel and liquid and powder, enhancements, and customisable manicures and pedicures. I pride myself on giving a personalised one-on-one service to suit each client’s needs.” Bookings: “Clients book either directly over the phone or via social media on my business pages, Instagram or Facebook.” Typical client: “I have a very wide spectrum of clients, ranging from retired ladies who like a classic manicure to the 20-somethings who like to experiment with eclectic nail art. Interestingly, I have a large number of clients who are school teachers with very busy hands. They love Shellac to protect and grow their nails.” Most popular service: “Still CND Shellac. It’s fast and it lasts, it’s so versatile. Clients love it as they can express themselves through their nails depending on their mood.”

Most popular colour: “Classic Red CND Wildfire or demure nude Satin Pyjamas.” Future plans: “I dream of one day owning a full salon where I employ a whole team of nail technicians.” Chloe Cordelia Abbot is a CND educator and founder of Chloe Cordelia Nails in Leeds ChloeCordeliaNailsBeauty @ChloeCordeliaNailsBeauty

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Staff Strategy



PROBATION Probation periods can be an excellent way of trialling new employees, but there are still laws around how you treat or dismiss staff during this period, warns DAVID WRIGHT


am an advocate of having a probationary trial period. While these don’t exist in law and so aren’t defined in terms of length, salon owners should maximise the time they have before confirming the appointment of new staff. Surprisingly, some don’t use them at all. I have seen contracts with a trial periods of only four weeks or three months. In my opinion, this isn’t long

enough for you to make a decision on a new appointee. Why limit yourself to such a short time period? In a four-week period, even the worst employee can manage 100% attendance and remain motivated. But perhaps on cold winter mornings they find it harder to get out of bed. Or maybe, while their treatments are good, clients don’t rebook because of their poor communication skills. You wouldn’t necessarily see this trend in four or even 12 weeks. During probation, you can decide an employee hasn’t made the cut and give them one week’s notice. However, once an employee has passed their probation period, then if there are performance issues, you must use the full disciplinary procedure. The probationary period is probably your one opportunity to release someone because they are average, whereas you want only to retain outstanding employees.

How to use probation periods You might want to set targets for attendance, skills acquisition, column earnings and client retention. Staff should be aware of what they need to achieve to get through their probation, but it is a two-way process and regular reviews give employees the opportunity to raise any concerns or problems. An employee can’t claim unfair dismissal until they have 24 months’ service. There is no length-of-service requirement for other claims, such as discrimination. In addition, if you dismiss them without notice they can claim wrongful dismissal. During the probation period they are entitled to a

week’s notice but are usually not required to work it. This is a cost you have to swallow but you can require them to use any outstanding holiday in their notice. Employees are protected by law from discrimination on the grounds of race, colour, nationality, ethnic origin, sex, sexual orientation, gender reassignment, religious belief, disability and age. Employers should be even more cautious in these cases as the potential award has no ceiling, unlike claims for unfair dismissal.

Dangerous cases A salon owner contacted me recently when they found themselves at tribunal after releasing a therapist during her probation period when they found out she was pregnant. It was inevitable that they would lose on the grounds of sex discrimination, so a large pre-hearing financial settlement was agreed. There was another more recent case where an employee was “not confirmed” following their probationary period. The employee claimed this was because they had raised safety concerns with the salon owner. The onus was then on the employer to convince the tribunal that the issues of the health and safety concerns and the decision not to confirm the appointment were not linked. The above cases relate to unfair dismissal. There are separate rules for wrongful dismissal, which can be claimed regardless of length of service. This is a contractual claim where there has been a breach of oral or written terms of an employment contract by an employer. The most common example is failure to give the employee the correct length of notice. So, be sure to give a week’s notice in the probationary period. PB

David Wright is a consultant in all aspects of employment practice and law. He is the main employment law consultant for Habia and provides a personalised support service for UK salons. Tel: 01302 563691

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12/12/2018 09:21

Treatment News

102 Lashus Lash Lift Debuting in the UK and Ireland this month and exclusively available via Sweet Squared, this 45-minute treatment aims to provide a dramatic boost to lashes. Starting with a pre-treatment consultation to allow the therapist to discuss the client’s desired result, the next step is a gentle and relaxing pre-treatment eye area cleanse to remove make-up and impurities, preparing the lashes for lifting. The preferred shield is placed before the Lift Lotion is carefully applied, followed by the Fix Lotion, which creates the lasting lift. The lifting takes 10 minutes on normal lashes and 12 minutes on coarse or stubborn lashes. Unlike other lifting treatments, the Lashus offers a lower, as well as upper, lash tint that is available in a dark intense blue/black hue for added drama. Lashes appear thicker and longer after the treatment and results will last for approximately eight weeks. The treatment is officially launching on January 21, with training dates in February. Sweet Squared recommends charging from £45 per treatment. Call the company on 0333 000 7000



Lash lifting and an innovative solution for stretchmarks are included in the initial treatment launches of 2019

This month we tried… Sienna X Brows shape and tint

The lowdown: Sienna X has extended its waxing service, expanding into the world of brows with its new brand Sienna X Brows. The treatment has been designed to offer a more luxurious brow service, making the experience enjoyable rather than just a necessity. The experience: The treatment took place at Cobella Salon in London. My therapist Lucy Jones asked me what style brows I usually go for and then decided on a mixture of dark and light brown to create a defined, natural look. Jones began by cleaning my eyebrow area using the new Micellar Make–Up remover then applied the tint mixture and left it for around three minutes. She then

mapped out the shape of my brows using a browmapping sticker that helped her to get a precise and even shape. Before the waxing began, eye patches were placed underneath my eyes. This added a lovely cooling effect during treatment and an extra element of relaxation, as well as reducing puffiness. The wax was then applied to my brow area and gently removed. After the waxing stage, Jones plucked out a few stray hairs and gave the longer ones a trim. I was then treated to a pressure-point scalp and forehead massage. Once the treatment was finished, Jones neatened my brows with a small bit of fixing serum and toned down the redness using the illuminating duo, both part of the new retail range. Business benefits: The concept of making a brow wax into a more luxurious treatment by adding the extra touches of the pressure-point massage and cooling eye patches means salons can charge more. The treatment also comes with a retail range for clients to use at home, including a brow pencil, fixing serum and illuminator duo. Sienna X recommends charging £17 for the treatment and has launched a training course to accompany the line. Call the brand on 0333 600 1200 Tried by Lydia Mormen

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Fusion GT Biodermogenesi stretch mark treatment Fusion GT has launched the Biodermogenesi solution into the UK, lauded as the newest technique for the treatment of stretchmarks. Bringing an entirely new technology to the industry, Biodermogenesi relies on a powerful combination of electromagnetic energy and vacuum technology to increase oxygenation, rebuild Type III collagen, target toxins and restructure damaged cells within the skin. The treatment, which firms the skin as well as tackling stretch marks, begins with a soft peeling action via an abrasive sponge

attached to the machine’s handpiece. The next step is electrostimulation at a low intensity, which helps the skin absorb nourishing products. The third phase is the skin regeneration element in which the machine’s technology causes an increase of cellular mitosis and the production of new collagen and elastin, effectively filling in stretchmarks. The final step is further electrostimulation in order to restore the hydrolipidic film and the optimal pH value of the skin. Six to nine treatments are recommended for optimal results. Fusion GT recommends charging £2,200 per course of treatments. Call the company on 020 7481 1656

Treatment News


This month we tried… DNA Plan Anti-Ageing Skin Test The lowdown: DNA Plan offers a range of tests, including one for diet and fitness, another for emotional wellbeing and the one I tried, which looks at how the skin will age. It analyses your genes to provide an insight into your skin’s susceptibility to glycation, collagen breakdown, sensitivity, pigmentation, cellulite, stretch marks and more. DNA Plan has partnered with salons and clinics, such as Enhance Medispa in Bath, which use the tests to inform the consultation and treatment plan for clients. The experience: I sent a saliva swab to the lab for analysis, and three weeks later received a detailed 39-page report including 14 pages of personalised analysis, alongside some skin-boosting recipe ideas. I must admit, at first it made quite depressing reading. My genes have gifted me a significantly increased risk of cellulite, stretch marks, elasticity breakdown and wrinkles - thanks a lot, Mum and Dad. On the positive side, I have the SLC24A5 gene, which indicates normal tanning response, meaning pigmentation and burning are less of a concern. The report also goes into fine detail about inflammation and the ability to fight free-radical damage and gives you a personalised plan with advice on nutrition, skincare ingredients and professional treatments. I was recommended skin needling, radiofrequency, glycolic acid peels and LED light therapy, plus skincare products containing vitamins C and E and niacinamide for skin glycation protection, plus a caffeinated body scrub for cellulite. Retinol was a secondary recommendation. The verdict: Most of my diet advice was along the principles I already try to stick to but the treatment and

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skincare recommendations were quite illuminating. I avoid peels and needling as my skin can be quite reactive but I’m determined to give them another try as I age and this elasticity breakdown becomes increasingly obvious. Skincare wise, I’m already a retinol convert but will definitely keep an eye out for niacinamide. Business benefits: With savvy consumers increasingly looking for personalised treatments, partnering with a DNA testing service as part of a client consultation could prove an effective sales tool for the services and products it recommends. It also taps into the growing consumer appetite for wellness and the link between nutrition and skin health. However, it doesn’t come cheap so incorporating this type of offer into a package for clients may be best suited to high-end medispas DNA Plan charges £245 for the test when selling direct to consumers and adjusts pricing for partner spas. Call the company on 020 3417 0359 Tried by Eve Oxberry

12/12/2018 09:22






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New Products

106 Nimue The Thermal Detox Peel is the latest innovation from derma-cosmeceutical brand Nimue, which claims that the charcoal-based peel delivers instant hydration, plumping and radiance after just one 30-minute treatment. The thermosensory mechanism creates a warm sensation to boost blood circulation and oxygenation of the skin cells. Trade: £27.50 for six pods 0333 000 7000 (Sweet Squared)

Enriched AND revived

This month, a wide range of supplements ensure hair and skin are nourished from the inside out, while skincare brands deliver with moisturising and hydrating creams

The Eyelash Design Company The Eyelash Design Company has added a fifth style to its Magnetise Magnetic Lashes range. The Ellie lashes offer a more dramatic look than the Rosie or Bella lashes, yet a slightly subtler style than Gigi or Meghan. They require no glue, and are designed to blend seamlessly with the natural lashes without leaving any sticky residue. The company will also launch a sixth style soon called Natalia. Trade: £12.95 020 8500 9028

Hair Gain Hair Gain is a natural hair growth supplement brought to the spa market by Gerrard International. The capsules contain 10 ingredients including pea shoots, biotin and zinc to visibly improve hair density and boost shine. The sleek, eye-catching packaging is designed to fit within the spa experience and take away any potential embarrassment about of the purchase for the customer. Trade: £18.35 0345 217 1360 (Gerrard International)

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107 New Products

Germaine de Capuccini B-Calm is a new range of dermo-cosmetics for sensitive skin. It contains an active ingredient created by Germaine de Capuccini called Skinbiome Repair, which protects and repairs the skin’s flora. The homecare products include B-Calm Micellar Water Gel, SOS Intensive Care Facial Balm and Correcting Moisturising Balm. The in-salon treatment includes an intensive facial balm and a bio-cellulose mask for the face, neck and décolletage. Trade: from £19.95 for the Micellar Water Gel 0845 600 0203 (Totally UK)

Katherine Daniels Rehydrating Cream is new from Katherine Daniels, and is suitable for all skin types. The nourishing formula strengthens and repairs the skin barrier with ingredients such as flaxseed extract, which stimulates collagen production, intelligent aqua bio complex, which reduces water loss, and rhodella violeca micro algae, which provides long-term hydration. RRP: £41 01767 682288


The Smart Group Meso-Jet

New from distributor The Smart Group comes the Meso-Jet needle-free injection system, which claims to allow beauty therapists to deliver traditionally medical treatments. The device delivers precise amounts of product directly into the subcutaneous and intradermal areas of the skin accurately and without the use of needles. The system uses low-pressure gas to propel the products through an aperture six times smaller than a needle, in a pain-free treatment. The Meso-Jet delivers a set dosage (0.03 or 0.05ml) of product quickly, achieving more than 600 shots per hour, making the treatments quick and comfortable for the client. Four peptide treatments are offered with the Meso-Jet: the SR Multi Vitamin anti-ageing treatment; HSR (Filler) multivitamin anti-ageing treatment with added hyaluronic acid; SB for pigmentation and skin brightening; and HL anti hair loss and hair regrowth with follicle stimulation.The peptide treatments are delivered in courses of four to six with suggested

prices of £150 per treatment. There are also two stem cell treatments – one for fine lines and wrinkles, and another for inducing hair growth, with suggested prices of £250. Trade: £16,500 01344 411480 (The Smart Group)

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New Products


HD Brows

KB Pro

New from HD Brows is an additional brow highlighter shade named Nude. The creamy pencil is easy to use and blend to sculpt the brows, leaving a natural but defined finish. The long-lasting, smudgeproof highlighter can be layered to build coverage. Trade: £9.51 0113 323 2470

The permanent make-up specialist has launched the K.B Pro Glider, a microblading tool designed with comfort and control in mind. The tool has an ergonomic handle, which provides a clear view of the needles for the therapist. Six compatible needle types have been specifically constructed to be used in conjunction with the Glider, each with needle protectors to minimise the risk of cross-contamination. Trade: from £19.95 for a pack of 10 handles 01977 655 630

Skinglo Skinglo is a new drinkable collagen-based supplement that works on the appearance of fine lines and is designed to restore volume to the skin and give a brighter complexion. It uses hydrolysed marine collagen which has been shown in tests to increase skin hydration by 28% in four weeks. Trade: from £28 for 14 sachets 01332 542500

Thalgo Thalgo’s latest collection, Joyaux Atlantique, is inspired by the five oceans and comprises Pink Sand Shower Scrub, which exfoliates and cleanses skin; Hydrating Dry Oil, which leaves skin feeling soft; and a Fragranced Body Mist with floral and sunny notes to awaken the senses. The products accompany the new two-hour body ritual, Joyaux Atlantique. Trade: from £15 for the shower scrub 020 7512 0872

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New Products


Sea Ór

Sea Ór is launching as a sister brand to seaweedbased spa skincare brand Voya. The new line will be bringing a premium range of seaweed supplements to the salon and spa market, initially launching two supplements: Body Cleanse and Hair, Skin and Nails. Body Cleanse contains ingredients such as psyllium husks, which are high in fibre, promoting strong gut and colon health, burdock root, known for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, and vitamin C. The Hair, Skin and Nails supplement contains biotin, which promotes healthy hair and nails, selenium, which protects cells from oxidative stress, and probiotics.

The development of the range began with an in-depth study on the benefits of consuming edible seaweed, including the review of more than 300 scientific papers on seaweed and general health. The study is due to be published later this year. Following the 18-month study, selected seaweeds and ingredients for Sea Ór supplements were chosen. Each product is formulated with seaweeds including laminaria digitata and fucus serratus. Organically rich in iodine and vitamins, they contribute to normal thyroid function, cognitive function and a healthy metabolism. Trade: from £17.50 for Hair, Skin and Nails +353 719 161872

Sienna X Sienna X has released a complementary homecare range to be retailed alongside its new Sienna X Brows treatment. The range includes the Illuminator Duo, which has a matt conceal at one end and a champagne shimmer at the other, and a doubleended brow pencil, fixing serum and micellar water. Trade: from £5.95 for the Micellar Water 0333 600 1200

Nailpad The Nailpad was created by twin sisters Carrie Salmon and Tori Deely and is designed for mobile techs or for salons to retail to consumers. It’s a small, portable round table with a holder to keep nail varnish bottles secure for manicures and pedicures on the go. The fold-out leg can be positioned between the knees, to keep the surface steady. The design means you can paint nails on a lap, at an angle with knees tilted, or rested on a flat surface. Trade: £5.50 07890 471 734

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Career Path


How to make it as an...


therapist Christine Thompson, training and professionals manager at Le Salon, reveals what it’s like working as a mobile therapist for an on-demand treatment app

1. Embrace the flexibility

3. Keep an eye on your outgoings

“I joined London-based on-demand treatment app

“In my experience, working for an on-demand treatment

Le Salon as a mobile therapist in March 2014 because

company pays a better salary – seeing two clients through

I needed flexibility with my working hours. At the time,

the app equals, on average, the same amount of money I

I had a young son and this made it hard to stick to the

used to earn working eight hours in a salon. The other

strict hours of a traditional salon, working 40-plus hours

benefits are that you work for yourself and the admin side

a week. I needed more freedom.

is taken care of – you just load your available times up to

“Since joining, I’ve been promoted to training and professionals manager, where I work at head office one

the system. “Plus, if a client cancels last minute, you still get paid

day a week training other therapists, known as

because the app has a policy of making customers pre-pay

Salonettes, in the Le Salon way. My other working days

for services. This is different to a salon where a client can

are with clients and these vary week to week because I

make the appointment but cancel at the last minute,

tailor appointments to what I’ve got going on. Recently,

leaving you with nothing.

I worked two days one week and then six the following

“However, topping up petrol and replenishing products

– you can work as much or as little as you like.”

will be your biggest monthly outgoings, and you need to

2. Juggle your time wisely

juggle your bookings so you have a good work-life balance

“When going it alone as a mobile therapist it can take

for example; try to group them together. It’s all too easy to

time to build up your clientele, whereas if you join an

work too much.”

on-demand app you get access to an instant list of customers. It takes around three to four weeks to find

4. Treat it as your own business

your rhythm – which area you want to be based in and

“This role requires a certain level of confidence, not only so

the hours you want to work – but then you settle into

you can guide the client through the service but also so

more of a routine. Plus, after three months you begin to

you’re able to sell yourself to get those crucial rebookings.

get regulars because clients start rebooking you.

Even though you’re working for an app, you need to think

“There are also a lot of corporate bookings in this business – where companies book you in for a half or full

– don’t accept one client at 8am and then another at 8pm,

of it as your business, because if you don’t do a great job then it’s only going to affect you.

day of treatments – which gives you more structure. I

“When working mobile, safety is also important. Le

have one corporate client who books me every other

Salon’s app requires all therapists to check in when they

Friday and another that I see once a week. Otherwise,

arrive at a client’s house and check out when they leave,

the biggest demand for appointments by clients is out

so we know where they are and at what time. Therapists

of office hours, so bear that in mind.”

should feel secure when performing the job”.


112 PBJAN19 Career Path.indd 112

12/12/2018 09:23

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Profile for Professional Beauty UK

Professional Beauty UK - January 2019  

Latest issue out now

Professional Beauty UK - January 2019  

Latest issue out now