AT THE HEART OF THE SPA AND SALON BUSINESS
SPA DESIGN • BIGGEST 2019 LAUNCHES • PB NORTH REVIEW • THE GEL BOTTLE INTERVIEW
TALKING TEXTURE THE 2020 NAIL TRENDS YOU NEED TO KNOW
OPEN SEASON BIGGEST SPAS TO OPEN NEXT YEAR December 2019
December 2019 | professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Aromatherapy Wax Massage Candles Our Aromatherapy Wax Massage Candles are infused with 100% natural essential oils to enhance your mood, and are made from soy wax which melts into the perfect warm massage oil for your skin. A perfect gift of wellbeing this Christmas. Find out why so many therapists are choosing us as the natural choice for their business. Call us today on 01733 260161 to find out more.
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12 News Beauty therapy one of the worst paid jobs in the UK; PB to launch anti-modern-slavery campaign
Primark
Regulars
Contents
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25 Professionalbeauty.co.uk What the industry’s been talking about online 26 Social surgery Where to look for the best digital advice 31 Out & about Behind the scenes at the biggest parties
41 Ward’s world Hellen Ward asks: do salons really need to be more digitally focused? 45 Ask the experts Mastering lower lash extensions and investing in skin-analysis tools 77 Operational advice David Wright on managing employees’ working hours 80 Treatment news BeautyLab and Nimue launch skin-rejuvenating treatments 83 New products Dermalogica expands its body line; Murad creates a multi-acid peel 88 Career Path Jo Weller from Mooeys salon on what it takes to manage a salon team
Figleaves
35 Insider Monthly stats to help salons and spas benchmark their businesses
Features
On the cover
51 Strive for success How to write a winning entry for the PB Awards 2020
52 Fresh spaces From a countryside destination spa to Harrods’ first beauty store outside of London, we explore the biggest spa openings happening in early 2020
55 Hot topic Are spas isolating the older workforce when recruiting? Steve Ewing weighs in 56 True north Highlights from Professional Beauty North 2019, including the key seminars, debates and demonstrations that took place 61 Bonding time Winners of PB North’s lash, nails and make-up championships 67 Talking to… Daisy Kalnina The Gel Bottle Inc founder reveals the secret to growing her social media-savvy brand
70 Most innovative 2019 launches The 20 product and treatment innovations that were influential for the beauty, spa and wellness industries this year, and why 75 Nail notes Award-winning nail tech Kirsty Meakin explains why ruffles and bold colour clashes will be the hot nail art trends for next year Cover image: Matalan
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Editor’s Comment
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News this month that beauty ranks among the lowest paid careers in the UK only emphasises the need to raise public perception of the value and skill involved in the profession. Beauty therapy is the seventh worst paid career, according to new Government figures (see page 12 for more details). As most salon owners will agree, it’s hard to increase wages unless the price consumers are willing to pay for treatments also rises, while in many cases it’s remained static or even fallen in recent years. A lack of licensing in the industry compounds the problem as it creates a framework that can be exploited by poorly qualified practitioners to undercut trained professionals. Add to this the pressure from medics to limit the scope of treatments that therapists can perform (see page 16), and it’s clear we need stronger differentiation to champion the responsible, qualified beauty professionals. While the campaign for regulation continues, another route to change is improving perception of beauty therapy as a serious career and, therefore, the number and quality of students entering industry. Work is being done in this area, with projects underway at the UK Spa Association, and here at Professional Beauty Group to show young people the scope of what they could achieve if they choose this path. This month, we profile just such an example in our career path feature (p.88), which looks at the skills needed to become a salon manager, while our lead interview (p.67) highlights a nail tech who built a multi-national product brand almost overnight. While the struggles of the beauty industry are real, the entrepreneurship it creates is something we should shout about as loudly as we can.
Editor
@Pro_Beauty01
@Pro_Beauty
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12 News
News Beauty therapists among top 10 lowest paid workers Beauty therapists are in the UK’s top 10 worst paid jobs for full-time workers, according to The Office for National Statistics (ONS) Annual Survey of Hours and Earnings 2019 report. Government figures revealed that bar staff are the worst-paid full-time workers, earning on average £16,055 per year, with beauty therapists coming in seventh with a salary of £17,179, and hairdressers and barbers tenth with £17,609. The news has caused heavy debate among industry pros on PB’s Facebook and Instagram accounts. Lauren Peattie, beauty therapist at Perfectly Pretty Nails and Beauty in Bognor, said: “Not at all surprised, considering I earn less than minimum wage working six days per week, but that’s part being self-employed and part PAYE. It makes you want to quit. People want cheap, not quality.” While another salon owner on Facebook argued that the problem
is how consumers view the industry: “It’s because we’ve been devalued as a trade. People will happily pay £80 plus for hair appointments but when it comes to beauty treatments, the price seems to scare people off. We all lower our prices to try and compete and then the [industry] becomes stagnant. We should be charging our worth.” Nicola Atkins, owner of Utopia Beauty Salon in Oxfordshire, commented that the Government makes it hard for owners to pay more. “It is incredibly difficult as unfortunately wages are not the only outgoing a salon has, it’s just the tip of it, with VAT, PAYE, pensions, sick pay, rent, rates, utility bills,
insurance, etc. I’m sure my employees have no idea how much it costs me a year just to break even, without making a single penny. Right now, I pay them as much as I can.” The ONS used data from pay-asyou-earn (PAYE) tax records on a random sample of 1% of workers to get an idea of how much different groups of employees are earning.
Edinburgh, London and Glasgow named UK’s biggest beauty treatment spenders People in Edinburgh are the biggest beauty spenders in the UK, splashing out on average £39 on a treatment, according to data by analyst SumUp, which examined one million card transactions
made at beauty salons, barbers and nail bars. London came in second, with consumers in the city spending £37 per beauty transaction, and Glasgow third with an average splurge of £33 per visit. Of the 12 major cities, the least likely to spend big is Birmingham, with an average transaction of £26. The data also revealed that clients in Leeds are the most likely to pay for a beauty treatment via a contactless
card, while those living in Newcastle are the least likely. The most popular day for customers to spend big at salons is Friday, with Sunday being the quietest. The top 12 UK cities that spend the most on beauty treatments are: 1. Edinburgh – £39 2. London – £37 3. Glasgow – £33 4. Newcastle – £33 5. Leeds – £32 6. Liverpool – £31 7. Cardiff – £30 8. Manchester – £30 9. Belfast – £29 10. Bristol – £28 11. Sheffield – £27 12. Birmingham – £26
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inbrief
PB to launch campaign to tackle modern slavery in salons The news that 39 people died in October while being illegally trafficked into the UK has put the horrific effects of modern slavery back in the spotlight. While it is unconfirmed whether those that died were destined for nail bars, we as an industry are all too aware that many people trafficked into the UK end up working illegally in salons, trapped into modern slavery. This issue has meant that reputable salons often can’t compete on price, and exit nails. Over time, this creates a gap that could ultimately make the problem worse. Professional Beauty is planning an awareness campaign and we need your support. One idea is that PB can provide, free of charge, a series of posters for qualified professionals to help spread a message; for example,
“Make sure you always visit a team that’s properly qualified”. Can you suggest a phrase that can get the message across? Have you got any other ideas that can be put into practice now? Let us know via our feedback form at professionalbeauty. co.uk/antislavery PB will also be reaching out to interested parties in the beauty sector to help promote legitimate businesses – nail brands, charities, and industry bodies such as Habia, VTCT, Babtac and HBC.
University of Derby to close its spa management course in 2022 The University of Derby is shutting its spa management degree, with the course closing in three years (2022) once all current students have graduated.
In an official statement, the university said the decision “reflects a shift within [this] sector to more industry-led qualifications, which has led to a steady decline in student numbers over recent years”. Going forward, the university will be focusing on vocational qualifications as “there is potential to maximise the industrial strengths of the town and surrounding area for us to pursue,” said Professor Malcom Todd, deputy vice-chancellor. The University of Derby was the first in the country to offer spa and wellness management degrees. Buxton and Leek College, which has been part of the University of Derby group since 2013, will still offer Level 3 Beauty and Spa Therapy.
// Oriele Frank, UK managing director and co-founder of Elemis, won an award at CEW UK’s 2019 Annual Achiever Awards in London. Frank was recognised for “her driving force to create a number-one, global skincare brand”. Other winners included brand owner Margaret Dabbs, Harrods beauty director Annalise Fard and blogger Caroline Hirons.
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// K.B. Pro has announced an update to its permanent make-up training. Foundation courses in microblading, digital brows and digital full-face permanent make-up can be taken further with skill upgrades, and the company is also offering specialist classes in brow mapping, ombré brows, nanoblading and pigment mixology. // Moddershall Oaks Country Spa Retreat has opened a Sleep Lounge to counteract the increasing use of mobile phones and their damaging effect on clients’ sleeping patterns. It features spa loungers sculpted to the curvature of the spine, egg-shaped pods, mood lighting and a fireplace. // More than a third (36%) of vegetarians are unaware that the beauty products they use could contain animal by-products, found a study by Flawless Lashes by Loreta. The survey of more than 500 vegetarians also revealed that 34% were still willing to use these products regardless of this fact. // Phorest Salon Software has pledged to support the Ocean Cleanup initiative, which is the world’s largest clean-up project. The company’s goal is to raise E10,000 to help tackle ocean pollution.
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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inbrief International standards body Cidesco will open a training salon at its head office in Zurich, Switzerland, in 2020, sponsored by brands including Lemi, Florence Roby and Repêchage. The new space will also allow Cidesco to produce educational webinars for its international examiners and schools. // Consultant Susan Routledge held a networking event for salon owners in the North East to promote the available funding to small and medium-sized businesses in the area. Valuable information was shared, including the news that £5,000 can be given to SMEs in certain areas that are employing someone under 25 years old. // Nearly three quarters (74%) of baby boomers and 64% of generation X believe beauty advertising underrepresents older women, according to a survey by AARP. More than 70% of women across both age groups said they would be more likely to shop with brands that showed a greater variety of ages in marketing material. // Malvern salon Belle Beauty raised £1,129 for charity Target Ovarian Cancer in October. The fundraiser was held in memory of receptionist Jackie Munrowd’s mother who passed away last year from the disease. // Lash-extension and lift specialist Nouveau Lashes secured two new deals in Moscow, Russia, after attending the country’s Beauty British Bar 2019 event, which was organised by the Department for International Trade. During the event, the brand demonstrated its SVS treatment to the Russian market for the first time.
David Lloyd introduces YouTube trend ASMR into spas
David Lloyd has introduced ASMR experiences into its Club Spas, in collaboration with ASMR YouTuber Sophie Michelle. ASMR (auto sensory meridian response) is the feeling of soothed relaxation combined with a tingling
sensation in the scalp and down the back of the neck in response to certain sounds picked up by microphones. David Lloyd’s ASMR spa experience is available now on YouTube and involves Sophie Michelle using common spa objects that are proven ASMR triggers. For example, she can be heard whispering while slicing lemons or folding spa towels, and dipping a hand in and out of the spa’s hydro pool. David Lloyd also plans to run live ASMR sessions in its four Spa Retreat locations, which will involve Sophie Michelle performing ASMR triggers into microphones as headphone-wearing visitors watch on live.
Medics urged not to train therapists in injectables The British Association of Cosmetic Nurses (BACN) has proposed a motion that regulated healthcare professionals shouldn’t train therapists in injectables. The association also recommended its members don’t supply any prescription-only products, such as Botox, for use by therapists or other non-healthcare professionals. BACN said the reason was a rising number of complications associated with invasive treatments administered by
beauty therapists, such as lip filler. The motion is the latest in a number of proposals from different groups to prevent therapists from performing injectables since the Joint Council for Cosmetic Practitioners (JCCP) removed access for beauty therapists from its injectables register in August last year.
Pure Spa & Beauty opens first standalone retail store in Edinburgh Spa and salon chain Pure Spa & Beauty has opened its first retail-only space. Pure Beauty Zone opened on Rose Street in Edinburgh on November 8. The new 2,000sq ft retail store will sell Pure’s range of capsules and aromatherapy face and body products, as well as natural products from brands including Myroo, EyeSlices and Pure Savvy. The opening follows a recent bout of expansion for Pure, which opened six
salons this year, in locations including Canary Wharf, Peterborough and Bristol. Pure chief executive Becky Woodhouse (pictured) said, “It’s been a dream to finally get an actual shop location where we can really expand the Pure range. ”While the retail space will occupy the ground floor of the new premises, the second floor will now house the company’s headquarters, a new office, and a meetings and event space.
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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The Hair and Beauty Charity launches to support professionals The official charity of the hair industry has rebranded to incorporate the beauty industry, changing its name from The Hairdressers’ Charity to The Hair and Beauty Charity. “We have always supported those in the beauty and barbering industries and now it helps to clarify our focus,” said Samantha Grocutt, managing director at Essence PR and co-president of The Hair and Beauty Charity, pictured here with co-president ASP’s Philip Sharp. Since its inception in 1853 under the name Hair and Beauty Benevolent, the charity has offered financial help to industry professionals who are in difficult times due to unforeseen circumstances, such as illness, bereavement and financial hardship.
// The date beauty businesses take the most Christmas bookings is October 17, with clients making more appointments for the festive period on this day than any other, according to data of 6,000 UK salons by Phorest Salon Software. By the first week of November, appointment bookings almost double from the average number of weekly bookings taken too.
The name change also comes as the charity has formed a partnership with Professional Beauty Group as its official charity partner.
Half of beauty salon owners have considered shutting up shop Salon software provider Phorest recently surveyed 1,000 salon owners, finding that 45% have considered giving up on their business.
It was also revealed that most began feeling this way around three of more years into running their businesses. The challenge of finding good therapists and managing staff (32%) was cited as the top reason for salon owners wanting to shut up shop, with the economy, rising rent rates and tax (22%) also common drivers. The challenges of managing large sales and marketing strategies (12%) and ever-growing admin and accounting tasks (10%) were also listed.
Spa industry mourns Michael Quinn Michael J Quinn, who formerly headed up Thermarium and Hydrotherm Spa in the UK, passed away in October, after a few months of illness, at the age of 66. Quinn leaves behind his wife, two children and eight grandchildren, along with his sisters and brother. Quinn entered the thermal spa equipment business in 1999 as
inbrief
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general manager of Thermarium. He then set up HydrothermSpa in 2005, working on major spa developments for brands including Center Parcs, Champneys and Banyan Tree. He spoke at wellness industry conferences in Germany, France, China and the Philippines and was an active volunteer in his community.
// Eco-friendly hotel The Salthouse in Ballycastle, Ireland, has opened a high-end spa following a £400,000 investment. The spa, which sits alongside the 24-bed hotel, features three treatment rooms, a thermal suite, rain shower, aromatherapy steam room and four heated daybeds, which offer views of Rathlin Island. // Mia Kyricos, senior vice president and global head of wellbeing for Hyatt, won the Leading Woman in Wellness Award at the 2019 Global Wellness Summit (GWS). Kyricos was recognised for her “visionary leadership” and “role in helping to define the wellness industry”. The GWS Summit will be held in Tel Aviv, Israel, next year. // Former Pure Massage Spa Training Method co-founder Beata Aleksandrowicz has launched a new training business for spas. Aleksandrowicz System will offer courses based on the massage specialist’s disciplines developed over the past 17 years, including communication, psychology and healing. // Jim McKenny has joined LED machine brand Celluma as vice president of global sales. McKenny will manage the company’s international growth. He brings 20 years of leadership experience, and joins from investment firm Townsend Kane, where he was chief operating officer. professionalbeauty.co.uk
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News
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diarydates // December 9 The Two Old Queens Coal Road, Leeds Intimate evening with nail industry legends Marian Newman and Gigi Rouse. 0333 000 7000 my.sweetsquared.com/ education/course/349 // January 30–February 1, 2020 IMCAS Annual World Congress Palais de Congress, Paris International expo covering aesthetic procedures. +33 (0) 140 738 282 imcas.com/en // February 16–17, 2020 Professional Beauty GCC Festival Arena, Dubai The biggest industry event in Dubai, includes World Spa & Wellness Convention Dubai. +971 (0) 4375 7300 professionalbeauty.ae // March 4, 2020 UK Spa Association UKSA Spring Networking Event Carden Park, Chester An opportunity for UKSA members and non-members to meet and network. manager@spa-uk.org spa-uk.org
Beauty therapist Katie Hoyle wins CACI PB North giveaway
Katie Hoyle, owner of Simply Beautiful by Katie in Littleborough, was the lucky winner of machine brand CACI’s £15,000 Synergy giveaway at Professional Beauty North. The brand held the competition in the
run-up to PB North, with those wanting to be in with a chance of winning the device registering with a special code and then having their badge scanned on the brand’s stand. The winner was selected at random by CACI managing director Dean Nathanson and PB editor Eve Oxberry on the Monday (October 14) of the show. “I’m over the moon and I can’t wait to do the training and see where this opportunity takes me. I feel so lucky,” Hoyle said. “I can’t thank Professional Beauty and CACI enough.”
Outback Organics unveils new team of 11 waxing educators Waxing brand Outback Organics has expanded its UK education network with the addition of 11 new trainers. The ambassadors are: Beth Thurman for Scotland & the North West; Amanda Mugford, Emma Smith and Jen Turner in the South East; Alison Guildford and Catherine Reed covering the North West; Chloe Bailey in the East Midlands; Claudette Bramley in the West Midlands; Jacqui Lacey teaching in both London and Ireland; Ali McAlister working in London; and Maria Nicholas covering Wales. Head educator Claire Prior held a “train the trainer” day for the team
at the brand’s Somerset education centre in October, teaching them about Outback Organic’s wax theory, ethos and product knowledge. “We’re thrilled to be able to broaden our training offering and are confident with the selected trainers,” she said.
Phorest encourages salons to go paperless with eco campaign // March 6–8, 2020 Beauty Düsseldorf Messe Düsseldorf Trade fair for cosmetics, nails, wellness and spa. +49 211 4560 7602 beauty-duesseldorf.com // March 8–9, 2020 Irish Beauty Show RDS Main Area, Dublin Show created specifically for beauty and nail professionals. 01789 773434 irishbeauty.ie
Phorest Salon Software has launched a campaign urging salons to go paperless in a bid to reduce the negative impact the beauty industry has on the environment. The salon software provider’s campaign, which launched in October, aims to help beauty businesses stop excessive paper use, specifically the printing of receipts – on average 300
billion paper receipts are printed each year, which equates to the felling of 25 million trees. Both clients and non-clients of Phorest were asked to fill out its Salon Paperless Pledge, after which they were sent a special media pack to help with the goal. The pledge included switching to digital receipts and consultation forms as well as banning paper cups.
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Digital
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professional
beauty .co.uk We take a look inside PB’s digital world
Katie Barnes (@KatieBarnesAcademy): How exciting to open up this month’s Professional Beauty magazine and find this wonderful spotlight feature on our #katiebarnestoolrange
Hot topic Clare Rogers (@treatmentroom): Excited to say my first samples of face and body oils arrive this week for me to try. Here’s why I went this route @pro_beauty.
Beauty therapists among UK’s top 10 lowest paid workers Emma Ginever, salon owner and manager at The Essentials, Birmingham, commented: “Costs need to be less. Rates, rent, products, insurance, licences, waste disposal, HR, legal – it all adds up. Plus, the drop in retail sales…salons are more limited to what they can earn per hour only in treatments. I would love to pay more to my staff; they work super hard and deserve it. I just can’t afford to.” Donna Thuesday, beauty lecturer, commented: “I have been a therapist for 15 years working in salons and I have temped as well. I have worked at home and I lectured for two years. I can categorically say this year I seriously thought about leaving this industry because it is poorly paid from the bottom straight to the top!”
THIS MONTH WE ASKED YOU… Do you trust online reviews as much as personal recommendations?
39% YES
61% NO
Hot topic
University of Derby to close spa management courses in 2022 Hannah Briggs, social media assistant at Gerrard International, commented: “As a graduate of the International Spa Management course, I think this is a true shame. To see the course go breaks my heart and raises concerns for the future of the industry. It is imperative that we are reaching out to the younger generations, educating them in the possibilities the industry can provide.”
Follow Professional Beauty… @pro_beauty01 and the team: @eveoxberry @mini_pauley @katsjonouchi
@pro_beauty facebook.com/ProfessionalBeautyUK uk.linkedin.com/in/professionalbeauty youtube.com/user/1ProBeauty professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Social Surgery
26
Choosing ONLINE courses Where is the best place to turn to for further learning on digital and social media? PB’s social media editor Chris Halpin takes a closer look at the options available
R
ecently, I got an email from one of our readers asking whether a particular online course they had seen advertised would be worth signing up for. The course offered a “complete” package, covering digital marketing, websites, social media and more. What’s more, it was being offered at a heavily reduced rate, and was now “only” £10. In theory, that would be a great deal, but the reality is slightly different. For starters, these types of course are almost always offered at a discounted rate. But it’s their effectiveness that’s the real concern, and questions have to be asked as to whether you should be paying for them at all.
Further detail In doing my own research, I’ve found these courses often do a good job of aggregating a lot of content and presenting it in one format. Because they’re trying to cover such a broad range of topics, there’s usually not a great amount of detail on any one subject. Therefore, they’re not ideal if you’re looking to sharpen a particular skill set. That’s not to say these kinds of courses aren’t useful at all, though. If you’re a complete novice when it comes to marketing your business online, there might be some benefits to taking a broad-minded approach to learning the basics. With that being said, you often don’t have to pay to get ahead when it comes to online learning resources.
There’s some really informative and in-depth information that’s offered for free by some leading names online. Google’s Digital Garage is a great starting point for anyone looking to grow their career or business online. It offers a wide range of topics, starting from the basic fundamentals, through to more specific and advanced subjects. The catch, if there is one, is that there are a quite a lot of references throughout to Google tools and services. But these tools are ones that you probably will encounter at some point along a digital marketing journey anyway, so they don’t feel out of place. If you’re looking at getting further ahead on social media, then Hubspot Academy is another great service that offers free courses, broken down to individual social platforms. If you’re particularly focusing on upping your Instagram game, for example, there’ll be a course specifically tailored to this. Similar to the Digital Garage, there’s a few references to Hubspot tools along the way – but again, they’re not intrusive enough to detract from the overall content. While all these courses are set up to allow you to learn at your own pace, there may be some people who feel they can’t commit to a full course. If time is tight, there’s a wealth of individual articles and reports published regularly about social platforms and the web as a whole. As we approach the new year, think about general searches for “social media reports 2020” – and take your pick from the dozens of results you’ll be offered. PB
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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08/11/2019 13:09
Industry Events
31
Out About
Behind the scenes at all the parties, launches and events in the world of beauty and spa
PHOREST CONSCIOUS HAIR & BEAUTY EVENT OXO2, LONDON Professionals from the industry, including PB’s deputy editor Amanda Pauley, came together to discuss how to make their businesses more eco-friendly at salon software provider Phorest’s first-ever Conscious Hair & Beauty Event. Salon owners including Mimosa Beauty’s Jennie Lawson took to the stage to share their top tips on becoming sustainable, such as switching to a green energy supplier and investing in Refuse Derived Fuel (which turns rubbish into a replacement for fossil fuels), as well as covering the big issues such as a lack of alternatives to single-use products like waxing spatulas. PB Awards judge and owner of The Reef Spa Clare Cockell also spoke at the event, sharing her advice on achieving workplace wellness.
SALON SYSTEM REFECTOCIL BREAKFAST MORNING HAYMARKET HOTEL, LONDON PB’s Amanda was among the trade press invited to Salon System’s Refectocil breakfast event to learn how the brand plans to develop its Browista and Custom Colour brow-tinting treatments. Educators Lisa Stone and Ruth Atkins talked through the bespoke tinting course and how therapists can tailor shades to create bleached, ombré and peppered brows, as well as those that perfectly match a client’s hair colour. Salon System is hoping to get the course into colleges next year to enhance therapists’ knowledge of colour theory for brows.
NAIL PAD LAUNCH PARTY OSTERIA DEL PORTICO, LONDON To celebrate the recent launch of Nail Pad, the tool designed to keep polish bottles stable during on-the-go nail painting, founders Carrie Salmon and Tori Deely held a party in Ealing, London, restaurant Osteria del Portico. Guests including PB editor Eve Oxberry were treated to Italian nibbles, followed by shots in the brand’s signature colours, pink (strawberry tequila) and black (black sambuca), served on a Nail Pad. The device is designed for mobile techs or for salons to retail to their clients.
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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AT THE HEART OF YOUR PROFESSION 8090 PBEX20 Master DPS DEC.indd 1
13/11/2019 09:31
UNLOCK NEW OPPORTUNITIES
JOIN US IN
2020 BEAUTY | SPA | WELLNESS
ENTRY IS FREE, REGISTER NOW AT: www.professionalbeauty.co.uk/londonreg GET INVOLVED AND KEEP UP-TO-DATE #PBLondon @pro_beauty
ProfessionalBeautyUK
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Professional Beauty London is open only to trade and professional visitors over the age of 14. Under no circumstances will babies, prams, pushchairs or buggies be permitted. Your entrance badge will be emailed to you 2-3 weeks before the show. Please print it and bring it with you for entry.
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06/11/2019 17:14
35 Business Trends
Our exclusive monthly benchmarking stats for each sector of the market
Insider
beauty
Primark
Staying on top of the latest trends is important if you want to maintain a steady client list. With lots of new innovations happening in the brows market, 55% of you predict that hair bronzing – where blonde/brown tints are mixed with warm highlights to create a more natural look – will be the big trend next year. However, many of you also think that brow lamination (10%) and bold brows (12%), like hot reds and cool blues, will become more mainstream too. This year has seen a lot of game-changing treatments and products land in the beauty market; see which ones have impacted salon and spa businesses the most on page 70. Meanwhile, as salons continue to adapt their offering to make themselves more inclusive, more than half of you (51%) are now pet-friendly businesses, with some even offering dual treatments for customers and their dogs.
On the spot
Which of these brow trends do you think will take off in 2020? 1. Hair bronzing 2. Bold colours (such as red, blue and silver) 3. Brow lamination 4. Peppered brows for men
69%
HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN OCTOBER 2019 COMPARE WITH OCTOBER 2018?
51% 35% 14% BETTER
would rather be an educator for a brand than create their own range
51%
October 2019 in numbers
SAME
WORSE
AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY
60% have a pet-friendly salon
Take part in our Insider feature Want to have your say on the beauty industry? Take part in our Insider feature and you’ll be rewarded with a £20 voucher to spend at the next Professional Beauty show you attend. Sign up at: professionalbeauty.co.uk/insider
HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN OCTOBER 2019 COMPARE WITH OCTOBER 2018?
24% 49% 27% BETTER
WORSE
SAME
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Business Trends
36
Insider
spa
On the spot
Figleaves
As consumer awareness about wellness and its impact on mental and physical health grows, being able to offer an array of treatment programmes that target different groups is now essential. Nearly half of you (40%) are predicting that family wellness, enrichment programmes that focus on eating well, exercising and healthy family interactions, will be big next year, as well as more tailored options for sound therapy to aid modernday concerns such as stress and poor-quality sleep. With recruitment in the spa industry still a big issue, taking advantage of all avenues to find those great therapists is crucial. Online job postings are still your core way of finding potential employees (39%), but many of you say that social media (20%) and referrals from staff (20%) are also helping you hire the right people. There are a lot of major spa openings in the UK in early 2020, find out where and why on page 52.
What is the most successful source of recruitment for you? 1. Online postings 2. Social media 3. Recruitment agencies 4. Referrals from staff
October 2019 in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN OCTOBER 2019 COMPARE WITH OCTOBER 2018?
71% 19% 10% BETTER
88 %
SAME
WORSE
AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY
have an in-house wellness/ meditation coach
54% Which package do you think will grow in popularity next year? 1. Family wellness 2. Sound therapy 3. Women-only retreats
HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN OCTOBER 2019 COMPARE WITH OCTOBER 2018?
20% BETTER
45%
35% WORSE
SAME
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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37 Business Trends
Insider
With social media now one of the biggest tools to help sell your manicure and pedicure treatments to clients, it’s never been more important to get your snaps and content right for the ’gram. Instagram stories are now as vital for your nail business success as grid posts, and many of you state that beforeand-after pictures (51%), mini treatment demos (16%) and special offers (14%) work best to get clients to swipe up and book an appointment with you. CPD is also a big focus for you, with many techs already thinking about their work-related resolutions for 2020. Just under half of you (45%) want to learn how to promote yourself on social media more effectively, while a third (33%) want to train in a new technique so they can broaden the salon nail menu. Big-name tech Kirsty Meakin tells us which nail art trends are going to dominate in 2020 on page 75, and some may surprise you.
On the spot
OPI for House of Holland at NYFW SS20
nails
Which nail content do you find works best on Instagram stories? 1. Before-and-after pictures 2. Mini treatment demos 3. Special offers/last-minute deals 4. Funny pictures of the team
25
%
October 2019 in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN OCTOBER 2019 COMPARE WITH OCTOBER 2018?
51% 29% 20% offer mindful manicures
What is your nail-based resolution for 2020? 1. Promote your skills more on social media 2. Learn a new nail technique 3. Get quicker at product application
METHODOLOGY Insider is compiled from a monthly survey of spas and beauty salons. The people who participated represent a crosssection of the industry and were polled by email from October 31 to November 8, regarding business for the month to October 31. Nail business for the Insider Nails page was calculated from data provided by salons that offer nail services among other treatments. The figures given represent the average score for each answer. Brands are ranked when mentioned by several respondents.
BETTER
SAME
WORSE
NAIL TREATMENTS PERFORMED ON AVERAGE PER WEEK
28 HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN OCTOBER 2019 COMPARE WITH OCTOBER 2018?
14% 55% 31% BETTER
WORSE
SAME
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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13/11/2019 17:20
AWARDS LONDON HILTON ON PARK LANE 28 JUNE 2020
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Ward’s World
41
Adapt or
die?
With customers shifting their retail spend to online, do salons need to become more digital focused or is it time to build on our core strengths?, asks HELLEN WARD
I
t’s a well-known sentiment in business that you either adapt or you die. Charles Darwin told us, “It’s not the strongest of the species that survive, nor the most intelligent, but the ones most responsive to change”. Many business gurus cite this brutal truth as a key commercial behaviour to adopt. But is it really applicable to our sector? When we analyse how the customer has changed, even in the relatively short time frame of the past decade, we realise just how much retail has had to evolve to suit. How can a bricks-and-mortar unit hold the wide range of choice available online? With a crumbling British high street, it’s no wonder that many companies choose to ditch the overheads, rates and staff that a shop involves and turn their offering into a cyber one. But we buck the trend, don’t we? Isn’t trying to adapt what we do into the online experience like trying to fit a square peg into a round hole? Isn’t that why there’s a boom in the number of salons, barber shops and nail bars springing up?
nuances of the virtual world instead? I for one would be the first to buy a ticket. I recently stayed in a hotel in Dublin on a business trip. They’d clearly embraced the “adapt or die” mindset; the rooms were tiny, Tokyo-style pods, designed for millennials. The music in the restaurant was hard rock, aimed at the same demographic.
Know your market The trouble was that the clientele wasn’t millennials or generation Z. It was a restaurant full of ABC, blearly-eyed 50-year-old business travellers, most of whom had been up since stupid o’clock on the red-eye from Heathrow, longing for a warm, cosy space to enjoy their (on expenses) dinner and glass of wine before retiring to a hot bath and a comfy, spacious bed to catch up on their zzzs. You won’t be surprised to learn that sleeping in a pod with a shower (no bath) didn’t appeal to me, so I complained and was moved to a disabled bedroom (really? What if a disabled person needed it?). I wondered why anyone would want to sleep in a poky hole, accepting a hotel bedroom which isn’t nicer and more luxurious than their own? So, yes, we need to adapt or die. But it’s adapting to the needs of our target customer, the person that’s putting the money in the till, the bread and butter, that should be the sole focus. The more we fight who the customer actually is, in favour of who we want them to be, the harder business will become. PB
We have adapted as best we can to this new consumerism but eventually we will have to admit defeat and stop admonishing ourselves for what we offer
Done with digital? We are booming in numbers, even though we cannot directly translate into virtual reality. I’m fed up of attending conferences forcing us to focus on digital, like other sectors do, when what we do is real and tangible; it will always be customer experience and relationship centric. We have adapted as best we can to this new consumerism but eventually we will have to admit defeat and stop admonishing ourselves for what we offer. We need to actively choose to embrace, value and relish what we do. Wouldn’t it be refreshing if the focus at a conference was on how to tangibly adapt elements of the service sector to the
Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London, one of the most profitable independent salons in the UK. She is beauty ambassador for the National Beauty Federation (NBF). Send your feedback to hellen@professionalbeauty.co.uk professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Untitled-36 1
05/09/2019 11:24
Business Tips
45
ask
the EXPERTS
Our beauty experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business
As a freelance waxing therapist, what measure should I take to avoid accidents or claims? The first point is the therapist’s public liability insurance, covering you for freelance or home treatments. The insurance needs to specifically cover mobile or “from home” liability. Also, the home would preferably need to be owned and not rented. However, although it is not generally permitted to run a business from a rental property, it is possible. If the property is rented, there will be stipulations on what you are doing. For example, more than 40% of the property needs to remain residential (which a beauty room would come under) and there must be written permission from the landlord as there is potential additional wear and tear to consider. As a mobile therapist, the most well-known damage caused to client’s homes is wax spillage on carpets, walls, flooring and furniture, so protection of clients’ homes is imperative. Take a large, wipe-clean plastic sheet to place under the couch that is adequately sized to catch falling wax, and set up in a space where flying wax cannot reach clients’ property. Another common mishap is pre-warmed wax heaters falling in the vehicle in transit. If the vehicle brakes suddenly during the drive, the heater will fall. A square-bottomed heater tends to be more stable. Alternatively, you could place the heater into a box which will collect any spillage and keep the heater in an upright position. Always carry equipment cleaner for any immediate spillages on hard floors, around the heater or on wipeable furniture. Invest in an in-car charger for your wax heater. It will be ready to use on arrival to your client,
rather than you having to wait or speed-heat your wax for use. A common problem with mobile therapists is back issues from lifting and carrying equipment and product to and from the vehicle. Use a couch weighing no more than 10kg. Carry only stock that is required for the treatment you are doing and make more trips to and from the vehicle to carry instead of overloading and risking injury to your back.
Claire Prior has been a trainer in the beauty industry for 20 years. Starting as a mobile therapist, she’s also worked on cruise liner spas and now trains exclusively for Outback Organics.
DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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13/11/2019 14:17
46
Lash Perfect
Business Tips
What’s the best way to upsell during a natural nail treatment?
Lower lash extensions are trending. How can I create a natural-looking finish for clients? Lower lash extensions are a great addition to any lash service. They offer a wide-eyed effect and can be as natural or dramatic as desired. Historically, lower lashes were done with the client’s eyes open, using an odour-free adhesive, meaning no discomfort was experienced by the customer. However, some clients struggled to keep their eyes open and still for up to 30 minutes. Also, these lower lashes would usually only last between five and seven days. Recently, I’ve been experimenting with using an under-eye gel patch under the lower lashes instead of on top as usually used for lash extensions. This reveals the lower lashes and enables clients to have their eyes closed for more comfort. A faster adhesive can also be used, such as Ultimate 2, which means the lashes will last as long as top lash extensions – sometimes up to two weeks. It’s nearly impossible to isolate a lower lash, so these are applied in express style, but the results of this technique have proved excellent. I usually use lashes in 0.05, 0.07 or 0.10, and on occasions 0.15 for a more dramatic but more temporary look. It depends on the look required by the client, but usually a B or C Curl in a length between 6mm and 9mm will work best, and I’d apply between 10 and 30 lashes on the underside of the lower lashes. This should last Natalie Piper is business development manager at 10–14 days, but can sometimes Lash Perfect and has more last longer. This process will take than 14 years’ experience between 20–30 minutes and you as a beauty technician. can charge around £15-£30.
There are many ways to upsell. First and foremost, always suggest that your client takes care of their cuticles and nails with the use of cuticle oil. This will ensure the manicure looks neater for longer. Applying a hand cream with a sensational aroma during your manicure treatment is also a great and easy way to retail. If the client can see it is non-greasy it is most likely going to be making its way into their bag and out of your door. If your client is going on holiday it is always useful to offer the opportunity to purchase the matching polish colour to the gel or polish you have applied. Explain to the client that if there are any breakages or chips they can be repaired with the matching polish. Gel remover sachets are the best invention, and also make your next treatment with your client even quicker. Clients find them super easy to use, they are inexpensive and a really simple retail item. Remember, retailing doesn’t have to be scary. You are simply making suggestions to your client so that they can prolong their treatment and ensure their nails are in tip-top condition. You should see it as part of your manicure treatment and it should be something that every client receives. You are the professional and everyone always appreciates an expert opinion.
Nail expert Stella Cox is Bio Sculpture head of education and has been with the company for more than 10 years.
DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Business Tips
47
Is it worth investing in a high-tech skin-analysis tool for my salon? A good skin analysis should be the first step to selecting the perfect facial for your client. Facial mapping, or skin analysis technology, ensures that you can get a real understanding of your client’s lifestyle and their skincare needs. This means that you can then fulfil their individual requirements in a way that evolves with their life’s constantly changing demands. A tool that uses clinical imaging will give you a much deeper insight into where the client’s skin needs attention. If you are still narrowing down which facial is best for them, this will certainly help you come to a conclusion. Discussing the client’s lifestyle is also key in taking a holistic approach towards their skincare and finding the perfect facial for them. Skin type can, and will, fluctuate throughout the months due to hormones, stress and other variable factors. Although a client may receive regular facials, it will always be beneficial to perform a skin analysis on each visit to monitor the changes. If you invest in a tool that allows for this level of personalisation, your clients will see better results as they will be booking the right facials and using the right products. Ultimately, this means they’ll be back for more.
Nicci Anstey is training and education director at Elemis, where she has worked for almost 20 years within areas including training, sales and retail.
As a therapist, should I have some understanding of early skin cancer detection? A few years ago, I came across Skcin’s Melanoma And Skin Cancer Early Detection (MASCED) accreditation programme for hair, health and beauty professionals on national TV. I was really interested and decided to do the online accreditation myself. During the accreditation, I viewed some slides of different skin lesions. A few months later, I was treating a client, pre-wedding, and she mentioned a small patch of skin that was just under her nose, saying that it had been irritating her for a while. When I looked at the area, it appeared exactly the same as a photo I’d seen on one of the slides. I told my client that although I wasn’t too sure about what it was, I thought it best to ask a GP to take a look at it. I carried on with the treatment but avoided the area. A few weeks later, she informed me that it was melanoma and she had had it removed. As you can imagine, she was delighted that we had that conversation on that day. At North West Vocational College all our students are now given the opportunity to complete this accreditation. Skcin UK is an amazing charity. Last year, I became an ambassador for it, alongside one of my students Jennifer Mccrindle from Jenmacbeauty. We’ve held workshops throughout the North West to raise awareness and have also been into local primary schools delivering the Danielle Wilcock is a medical “sun safe school accreditation aesthetician, ambassador for Skcin UK and director of programme”, which raises the North West Vocational awareness for primary school College based on the Wirral, children about the importance Merseyside. of wearing sunscreen.
DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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FOREO LUNA Professional Set
Untitled-9 1
07/11/2019 16:52
PB Awards 2020
51
STRIVE for success Thinking of entering the Professional Beauty Awards 2020. Here are five steps to getting your entry noticed 1. Be clear and concise The awards judges have hundreds of entries to read each year, and you want yours to stand out. Grab their attention by jumping right into the best bits, and be sure to stay within the word limit for each question.
If you’re entering the Therapist, Employer or Leader categories, check the date of the relevant live judging day when you enter, and block it out in your diary. And of course, save the date of the big awards night: June 28, 2020.
2. Back up your claims
4. Understand your responsibilities
Won any awards? Upload a certificate or photo. Featured in a magazine? Scan the article and provide it alongside your entry. Make the most of the supporting documents section to show the judges why you deserve to win.
While entering is free, finalists in the spa and salon categories are required to provide treatments for an official visitor free of charge. For spa categories, this may include an overnight stay in your property as well. Finalists in the Therapist, Employer and Leader categories will be required to attend a live judging day.
3. Make a note of important dates Make sure you’re aware of the deadline – January 24, 2020. For the spa and salon categories, official visits take place between February and April, so be sure that you or a briefed team member are available for contact during these times.
5. Last, but not least, don’t panic The awards team are always happy to help, so if you have any queries please don’t hesitate to get in touch by emailing Lizzi Diggins at lizzi@profesionalbeauty.co.uk or calling on 020 3841 7365.
2020 Categories • Midlands & North West Salon of the Year • Midlands & North West Spa of the Year • North East, Scotland & Northern Ireland Salon of the Year • North East, Scotland & Northern Ireland Spa of the Year • South East Salon of the Year • South East Spa of the Year • South West & Wales Salon of the Year • South West & Wales Spa of the Year • Boutique Salon of the Year*
• Large Salon of the Year* • Boutique Spa of the Year* • Large Spa of the Year* • NEW: Spa/Salon Leader of the Year • NEW: Spa/Salon Team of the Year • Nail Salon of the Year • Therapist of the Year • Employer of the Year *N ational spa and salon categories cannot be entered directly. The winners of these four categories will be the highest scorers from all relevant regional categories.
Sponsored by
Entering the Professional Beauty Awards is free and can be done online at professionalbeauty.co.uk/awards professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Spa Design & Build
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FRESH
spaces
We take a closer look at a selection of the hottest spa openings planned for 2020
THE SPA AT CARDEN, CHESHIRE Opening: January 2020 Spa size: 48,438sq ft Facilities: The standalone spa will span two floors and feature a range of thermal experiences such as a large vitality pool, ice fountain, snow shower, experience showers, footbaths and heated loungers. In addition to treatment rooms, there will be a beauty lounge offering manicure, pedicure, and lash and brow services to provide guests with the finishing touches. Several relaxation areas with cosy seating spaces are planned, as well as a first-floor lounge and restaurant with stunning views of the Cheshire countryside. Treatment rooms: 14 USP: The owners say the spa will boast the largest multi-sensory spa and wellbeing outdoor area (25,833 sq ft) in the UK. This includes a garden complete with a sensory hydrotherapy pool, hot tubs, fire pits, outdoor sauna, private “secret garden� relaxation spaces and a central champagne bar.
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SUDBURY HOUSE HOTEL, OXFORDSHIRE
MILSOM HOTELS KESGRAVE HALL, SUFFOLK
Opening: TBC Spa size: 11,840sq ft Facilities: The new spa will have a covered walkway connecting it to the existing facilities and will feature swimming and vitality pools, sauna and steam room. In addition to the treatment rooms, there will be a lounge and dining area and a modern gym. It will be open to local residents, members and guests of the hotel. Treatment rooms: Six USP: The building has been designed to blend into the landscaped grounds of the hotel, which sits within the Faringdon Conservation Area. The spa will feature an innovative “living” roof, which will sit inside this protected area. The Spa will also be home to a café, which will offer menus developed by chefs at the neighbouring award-winning Magnolia Restaurant.
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Opening: March 2020 Spa size: TBC Facilities: The spa will boast an impressive outdoor area with a stunning view and huge hot tub. Treatment rooms: Five double rooms USP: Designed and built by Kesgrave Hall partner the Hills Group, the wooden-clad spa will have a light and airy feel, with large bi-folding doors leading out to a decked area with log burner, comfy seating and a hot-tub for use by hotel and day spa guests. The spa will have an extensive menu and aims to attract both hotel guests and day guests on group spa days or on leisure or corporate events. Planned spa packages range from Wake Me Up, Lovely Lunch, Day Spa to Afternoon Delight and brands used will include Aromatherapy Associates, Dermalogica, St Tropez and The Gel Bottle.
H BEAUTY, LAKESIDE, ESSEX Opening: Spring 2020 Size: 23,000sq ft Facilities: An expansion of the iconic Harrods beauty hall, this is the first of two new standalone beauty stores (the second is planned for Milton Keynes) under the name H Beauty. As well as housing famous brands such as Chanel, Dior and Huda Beauty, alongside brands completely new to Harrods, it will offer beauty services such as blow-dries and facials. Customers will also be able to enjoy drinks and light refreshments at the H Beauty coffee-to-cocktail bar. USP: Through the launch of H Beauty, Harrods aims to disrupt the current UK beauty retail landscape. The store will combine Harrods famous experiential beauty retail environment with a diverse portfolio of premium brands to bring something new to the UK’s beauty industry. PB
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SET YOUR STUDENTS UP FOR CAREER SUCCESS What’s on for colleges on Monday 30th March
Are you bringing a group of students? Email colleges@professionalbeauty.co.uk to register a group
EDUCATION FORUM Discuss with leading employers and specialists how to get students into the industry INSPIRATION & TRAINING Seminars for just £1 per session for lecturers and students DO YOUR STUDENTS HAVE WHAT IT TAKES? Win £1,000 by entering your students into the College Cup EXCLUSIVE LECTURER BENEFITS Free refreshments and drinks reception in the lounges DISCOUNTED COACH HIRE 50% off coach hire, courtesy of
Register for free tickets at www.professionalbeauty.co.uk/collegetickets #PBLondon @pro_beauty ProfessionalBeautyUK pro_beauty01
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13/11/2019 09:37
Hot Topic
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THE
generation
GAME
I
With so much focus on attracting millennial and gen Z employees, are spas isolating the older workforce? Steve Ewing argues that the industry needs to work harder to engage all age groups
is constantly being affected by their environment; ’ve been in the spa industry for a long time now, whether it’s my dad trying to get a badge for daily having worked for chains such as Macdonald steps on his Fitbit or the fact that my smartphone has Hotels, Mercure and International Hotels, so I now become an extension of my arm. understand it a little more than most. One of the Society has changed all of us and the principles most interesting trends of late is the idea that spas we’re being taught now apply to all generations. A need to tailor their people strategy for millennials key example of this would be that job hunters are and generation Z in order to hire, engage, now interviewing their interviewers just as motivate and retain them. much as the employers are interviewing I by no means disagree with this them. This “newness” applies just as statement but I think it misses Due to a much to baby boomers and those something. I’ve been to many shortage of entryfrom generation X as millennials seminars on attracting millennials level therapists, spas and generation Z. and generation Z and it’s been need to revisit how Training and development is a enlightening to learn that these we appeal to, retain form of remuneration for everyone age groups communicate and and engage all age now and this, for a lot of people, interact differently in the groups, not just can be more important than rate workplace. However, the ethos of millennials and of pay. Another thing that’s certain these presentations are always the generation Z is that people want gamification same – that you have to treat regardless of their age. They want to be employees from these generations at the top of the leader board or wear the differently to everyone else. badge for their qualification because this is the But what about the people who don’t fall way society has shaped us. into these age brackets, such as generation X and So remember, all team members will want to see baby boomers? More people who sit outside the a clear pathway to being promoted or getting millennial and gen Z categories are now wanting to increased responsibilities and will expect to see a move into the spa industry, and they’re looking for job road map for it. This is not an exclusive list but I satisfaction, training and development just as much suppose my key message is that when you’re as remuneration. thinking about recruitment strategies, don’t just At a time when the ability to recruit and retain team focus on millennials and generation Z and forget members has become the blueprint to success due to everyone else. PB a shortage of entry-level therapists, spas need to revisit how we appeal to, retain and engage all age groups, not just millennials and generation Z.
Avoid tunnel vision The theory is that millennials and generation Z are shaped most by their surroundings but that idea doesn’t take into account that everyone, regardless of their age,
Steve Ewing is spa director at The Spa at Carden, a multimillion-pound countryside resort spa opening in Cheshire on January 6, 2020.
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Professional Beauty North 2019
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TRUE North
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PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY NORTH welcomed nearly 15,000 visitors to new venue EventCity in October to discover the latest trends and learn from the diverse live stage line-ups
ome 14,774* visitors flocked through the doors of Professional Beauty North on October 13–14, with a large proportion salon owners and directors. “With huge queues to get in on the Monday it was like the old days,” says Professional Beauty Group managing director Mark Moloney. “It was so good to see the industry at its vibrant best, with salon owners putting the brands through their paces. Just about all our exhibitors had a good time. We’re working with the venue to make the arrival experience better in 2020 but overall it was a great show.” Visitors were impressed with the diversity and quality of the brands on show, with plenty to choose from across skincare, aesthetics, nails and more. Salon owner Gemma Holt, of Lily’s Beauty Salon in Whitchurch, comments, “This was probably my 20th year coming
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to the show. I’ve found everything from furniture to new skincare products to machinery. It’s so worthwhile coming because you get to actually talk one on one with suppliers, which you don’t get anywhere else.” Centred around a champagne bar, the spa zone was particularly popular and featured brands including Thalgo, Image Skincare, Payot, Eve Taylor and Guinot. Eve Taylor’s brand and education manager Matt Taylor says, “The footfall was fantastic – a great calibre of people, and we’ve had a lot more positivity with the customers who came across to us.” Pevonia also exhibited in that zone, returning to PB North after several years away from the trade shows. Pevonia key account manager Becky Cranfield comments, “The show’s been absolutely *Awaiting ABC audit
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Professional Beauty North 2019
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amazing. It’s been great to catch up with some of our existing clients and we’ve made some really good new connections from spas and also salons.” Guinot UK managing director Chris Gillam adds, “It’s been such a busy show, there have been so many people. The Sunday was just brilliant. We got more leads than we were expecting and they were very good quality, so I’m happy. I really like the venue too; to be out of the city centre is a great idea.”
DIVERSE LINE-UP Exhibitors in the aesthetics area of the show also forged some great relationships. “There’s been a good footfall at the show of serious, quality visitors,” says Peter McGuiness, managing director of Cocoon Medical UK, while Roy Cowley, managing director of 3D-lipo, comments, “We did a few deals on day one and people came back to the stand on day two who said they would – it’s great that a lot of visitors seem to have come for both days of the show this year.” There were a host of on-trend nail brands at the show too, including Nails by Annabel, Gelish, Brillbird, Magpie Glitters and many more. Visitor Katie Barnes, owner of Katie Barnes Training Academy in Warwickshire, says, “I was really excited to see Nails
by Annabel here, and catch up with them, as well as Pure Nails and NailGaga. It’s good to see there’s more nail stands at the show this year, especially some of the new, smaller ones that are starting to make their mark.”
SUPPORTING THE INDUSTRY PB North’s second-ever Salon & Spa Connect networking forum took place on the Sunday of the show, bringing together salon and spa owners to debate the industry’s biggest challenges in a private and informal setting. Like-minded professionals and a selection of independent industry experts (chosen by PB) debated issues such as staff recruitment, retailing, cash flow management and social media strategies during an intimate round-table discussion, with all sharing ideas and solutions of what has worked well for them in their business. Attendee Michelle Quimby, managing director of Body Contour Beauty in Cheshire, says: “This is my second year attending and it’s been amazing meeting other business owners who have got the same difficulties. I hope the forum gets bigger in 2020 because it’s really good.” >
We got more leads than we were expecting and they were very good quality
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A key topic was recruitment and retention of therapists, and the importance of personalisation was agreed by all – from small touches like having your employee’s favourite chocolate bar in the staff room to larger schemes such as training courses. Consultant Jessica Crane also suggested salon owners need to be more visible in the business to attract candidates, many of whom now prioritise company culture. Promoting your business on Instagram was another hot discussion, with many wanting to know how to carve a niche for themselves on the oversaturated platform. Ideas such as investing in a salon selfie wall and being original in your messaging were the top suggestions for boosting reach and engagement. Other experts at the networking forum included industry elite Paul Clarke, owner of Salon Marketing Experts; Stefania Rossi, owner of Utopia Beauty & Advanced Skincare in Hornchurch and recruitment agency Hidden Talent; Glow Salon beauty chain owner Sara Shoemark; salon business consultant Susan Routledge and IIAA’s Nicola Bell.
KNOWLEDGE IS POWER The education programme at Professional Beauty North also received rave reviews, providing lively debate and solutions on all kinds of problems to do
with the day-to-day running of a salon or spa business. Inspirational talks were held across seven Live Stages and one seminar programme, with learning opportunities for both start-up beauty businesses and seasoned pros looking to upskill. Big-name nail tech Kirsty Meakin drew in a crowd of 113 for her Trend Watch Stage session on the nail art looks set to dominate 2020, while on the Digital Skills Stage Naf! salon owner and social media whizz Tammy Koslowski had 77 attendees listen to her advice on how to successfully grow your business on Instagram. “So many people in the beauty industry work by themselves, so it’s nice to be able to talk about the stuff you love with other people who love it, and help someone else’s business grow,” says Koslowski.
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The Business Skills Stage was applauded for providing practical tips on starting and running a business, especially making it big as a mobile therapist, while PB’s Make-up Specialist of the Year 2019 Betsy-Dora Turner blew MUAs away with her full glam make-up demo on the How to Stage. The Warpaint Stage gave MUAs even more practical advice on everything from pricing your services to sourcing vegan and natural products, while the Natural & Holistic Stage included talks from influencers such as Meg Mathews, founder of MegsMenopause, on understanding the symptoms of “the change” and breaking the stigma around it. Facialists pulled up a chair to see Skin Genius Clinic owner Martine Jarman’s chemical peel demonstration, which was on the Aesthetic Therapist Agenda seminar
programme, while the Advanced Treatments Stage delivered vital information on a wide range of treatments, from dermaplaning to mesotherapy. Meanwhile, the Education Forum provided lively debate among college lecturers about the core issues facing beauty education. The show will be back at EventCity, next year, with a host of exciting new show features. Trams will be running in 2020, with a new tram stop that drops you almost at the show front door. PB
It’s so worthwhile coming because you get to actually talk one on one with suppliers, which you don’t get anywhere else
SAVE THE DATE
Professional Beauty North will return on October 18–19, 2020, at EventCity Manchester
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The Christmas season is almost here and Christmas parties will be in full swing. This is an opportunity for everyone to look good and feel fabulous! Fake tan has been voted as the nation’s favourite way to boost confidence and improve your self-image, therefore we should be spray-tanning all year round to maintain this super level of happiness and self-worth. Christmas is the ideal time to celebrate this discovery, so get that Christmas glow this year and feel like a star!
The Aura brand represents high quality engineering, manufacturing, and performance in spray tanning. Our machines are designed for ease of use, manoeuvrability and storage. The nozzles, filters and surfaces are easy to clean for complete maintenance. Their stylized salon designs include polished black gloss or matt surfaces giving them an overall professional and sophisticated appearance.
For more information on how we can add to your business please contact us or visit our website
Untitled-13 1
info@aurasprayers.com www.aurasprayers.com
/aurasprayers
@AURA_sprayers
22/08/2019 09:35
Bonding TIME
C
ongratulations to the 22 lash artists who took home trophies for their superb technical skill in the North Lash Championships 2019. The competition, which took place at Professional Beauty North on October 13–14, saw artists compete in three extensions styles – Classic, Russian 2D–4D and New Volume – and for each category there were different divisions (Novice, Professional and Expert).
Russian 2D–4D
NOVICE DIVISION: First: Elizabeth Nelson Second: Daniele Zidonyte
PROFESSIONAL DIVISION: First: Zaneta Jankowska Second: Julija Inceriene Third: Inese Liepina
EXPERT DIVISION: First: Iga Bajorek Second: Daria Jedynak-Orzanowska Third: Holly Stott
Some of the most talented lash artists were crowned during the North Lash Championships 2019. These are the names to watch…
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PB’s Lash Championships director Heather Hughes presented winners with trophies, while second and third were awarded certificates. Divisions with five or more competitors had first, second and third prizes, while those with four or fewer saw only an overall winner awarded (apart from the Russian Volume 2D–4D Novice division). This year’s standout lash artist was Iga Bajorek, who came top in the expert divisions for both Classic and Russian 2D–4D.
New volume
Classic
NOVICE DIVISION: First: Dominique Stanner Second: Natalie Barton-Phillips Third: Deena Sonigra
PROFESSIONAL DIVISION: Winner: Samantha Straugheir
EXPERT DIVISION: First: Teddi Toomer Second: Daria Jedynak-Orzanowska Third: Iga Bajorek
NOVICE DIVISION: First: Loredana-Elena Irimia Second: Elizabeth Nelson Third: Elly Young PROFESSIONAL DIVISION: Winner: Natalie Wood EXPERT DIVISION: First: Iga Bajorek Second: Ellie Farrell Third: Monika Kupien
THANKS TO OUR JUDGES A special thank you to our judges: Heather Hughes, PB’s Lash Championships director; Alina Zvirble, educator and founder of lash brand and studio Lash4ever; Sarah-Anne Barham, owner of Sarah-Anne’s Beauty and distributor of Novalash UK; and Inese Stepanova, trainer for London Lash Pro and owner of I Nova Studio.
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AWARDS THE DIXIE QUEEN YACHT, LONDON 29 MARCH 2020
CELEBRATING GLOBAL EXCELLENCE See the 2020 shortlist WWW.WORLDSPAWELLNESS.COM/AWARDS
The winners will be announced in a black-tie ceremony on 29 March 2020 at a brand new location, The Dixie Queen Yacht in London.
WITH THANKS TO OUR SPONSORS:
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Show of SKILL
A
North Nail Championships 2019
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With categories for every specialism, the North Nail Championships recognised the top talent from across the industry
gnes Dullo and Simone Radley were among the techs who took home multiple prizes at the North Nail Championships 2019, showcasing their expertise in pink and white, nail art, manicure and more. Nail techs proved their skill, attention to detail and passion for the industry in nine categories
Pink & White Competition Style Acrylic Winner: Agnes Dullo Second: Simone Radley Third: Carlie Salt
Pink & White Competition Style Gel Winner: Agnes Dullo Second: Kirsty McDonough Third: Simone Radley
Gel-Polish Winner: Magadalina Sawic Second: Monika Kupien Third: Jark Hing
Salon Nail Winner: Monika Kupien Second: Magdalenia Sawica Third: Emma Faulkner
Nail Masters Winner: Agnes Dullo Second: Simone Radley Third: Kirsty McDonough
at the competition, which took place at the Professional Beauty North show in EventCity Manchester on October 13. Competition director and award-winning nail tech Denise Wright handed out trophies to the winners, awards to those who took home second place and a participation certificate to all other competitors.
Mixed Media Boxed Winner: Melanie Lewendon Second: Lauren McBride Third: Victoria Mason
Hand-Painted Nail Art Winner: Marina Ratkus Second: Maria Rimmer Third: Becca Butterworth
Photographic Classic Winner: Emma Stanton Second: Zara Lockwood Third: Dawn Harrison Voter’s choice: Rhenna Garside
Photographic Nail Art Winner: Simone Radley Second: Sarah Thompson Third: Dawn Harrison Voter’s choice: Dawn Harrison
International Nail Master Winner: Agnes Dullo
THANKS TO OUR JUDGES The expert judging line-up for the PB North Nail championships was: Rebecca Abernethy, Katie Barnes, Michelle Brookes, Hazel Dixon, Linda Hill, Fereida Lydiate, Elaine Moore, Francesca Nathan, Jacqueline O’Sullivan, Scarlett Senter
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Warpaint North Championships 2019
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Power PAINT
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Both aspiring and accomplished MUAs showcased their exceptional skills in make-up mastery during the Warpaint North Make-up Championships 2019
aking place on the Monday (October 14) of the Professional Beauty North show in Manchester, the Warpaint North Make-up Championships saw MUAs demonstrating their skills in product application, use of colour and interpretation of theme across four different categories. Competition director Emma Rutherford and head judge Armand Beasley were blown away by the calibre of entries this year. Here’s who went home with the trophies…
Real Beauty
THEME: REVOLUTIONS
STUDENT DIVISION Winner: Louisa Cavey Second: Macie Caffrey Third: Lucy Lancaster
THEME: INTERNATIONAL WOMAN
PRO DIVISION Winner: Anett Csato Second: Stefania Sanna STUDENT DIVISION Winner: Jessica Holden Second: Mollie Shaw Third: Abby Chapman
Runway
Film & TV
College Cup Winner: The Manchester College
Pro Artist
THEME: SOCIAL ACTIVISM
PRO DIVISION Winner: Tasmyn Nicola Second: Danielle Quenault
Winner: Tasmyn Nicola
STUDENT DIVISION Winner: Haia Aldebiat Second: Catlyn Moore Third: Abbie Sutcliffe
Bodypainting
Rising Star THEME: KARL LAGERFELD
PRO DIVISION Winner: Clair Sullivan Second: Rebecca Fuller Third: Samina Bukhari STUDENT DIVISION Winner: Ashleigh Jacques Second: Ellisha Dale Third: Meghan Roberts
Winner: Louisa Cavey
THANK YOU TO OUR JUDGES:
A massive thank you to judges Armand Beasley, Stuart Bray, Yasmin Heinz, Thomas Hope, Carole Lyndsey, Jennie Roberts, Angela Youngs and Dave Youngs.
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How to
Increase
client LOYALTY
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Long-term loyal clients are the bedrock of your beauty business – but you have to work hard to earn their continued loyalty, says the National Beauty Federation lient loyalty should be a particular focus during the quieter new year period after the Christmas rush – and you can take steps to ensure your clients return sooner rather than later following the festive season.
“However, you could give all your December clients a Christmas card offering free products with full-price appointments during January. This is far less costly for you but will add genuine value for your clients.”
Loyalty schemes
Planning ahead
“Loyalty schemes are a great way to keep your clients coming back,” says National Beauty Federation chief executive Hilary Hall. “But keep your scheme simple; for example, by awarding a set amount of points per visit. This makes it easier for staff and clients to understand.” Make sure your scheme is well-publicised in the salon and via your social media and website and tailor rewards to suit individual clients. “For example, clients who regularly have more expensive treatments may not value money-off offers but would appreciate an additional service for free,” adds Hall.
“Going greener or vegan could help to attract more clients if you’re looking to grow your client list during 2020,” says Hall. The Vegan Society reported that the number of vegans quadrupled between 2014 and 2018 and the most important packaging label for 57% of people is ‘not tested on animals’. “Make sure you publicise what’s happening in your salon via social media and your website to help attract eco-conscious clients,” adds Hall. Find out more about vegan and eco-friendly options for your business at nhf.info/sustainable
New year events
The NBF
“Invite a select group of your best clients to a special event in the new year,” says Hilary. “You can demonstrate new products and treatments and offer a 10% money-off voucher for appointments booked within two weeks. Your products supplier might be happy to provide some freebies to use as giveaways at the event.” Find out what else you can do to keep your loyal clients at nhf.info/client-loyalty
For less than 75p a day, the National Beauty Federation (NBF) will help you boost your business while keeping you safe, legal and bang up to date with all the latest business laws. You’ll wonder what you did without us. The NBF is the sister trade association of the National Hairdressers Federation (NHF). Find out more at nhf.info/nbf
Discounts and sales? “A recent survey of our members found that although 52% of respondents agreed that discounts help to fill a new employee’s appointment book, 43% felt that discounting undervalues the industry and 28% said that it eats into long-term profits,” says Hall. “That’s why it’s probably best to avoid offering too many ‘January sale’ appointments.
Join the NBF before the end of December 2019 and quote PBD25 to get £25 off your membership fee.
Join online at nhf.info/join Or call us on 01234 831965
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67 Interview
Talking to...
Daisy Kalnina
T
The Gel Bottle Inc founder tells Eve Oxberry how social media savvy, calculated risks and a lot of hard graft have helped her achieve such rapid growth for the nail product brand
here’s no denying that The Gel Bottle Inc has caused something of a stir in the nails market. Having launched just four years ago, the gel-polish brand is now in almost 70,000 salons, has 15 distributors worldwide, and counts celebs such as Kim Kardashian and Dua Lipa as fans. For founder Daisy Kalnina, it’s a huge leap from her first business, which she started from her spare room in Brighton in 2012, as a home-based nail tech. “At the beginning, it didn’t bring me much but I had small children and I fitted it around them,” she says. It wasn’t long before she branched out, opening her first salon less than a year later. “I took the plunge without having much finance available but it was the best decision I made,” she says. “I had 200 customers waiting for me to open, and that came from the marketing I did. I like when a company pays attention to you and actually treats you as a human,
so that’s what I implemented in my first salon.” The business took off and soon moved to larger premises, with 10 nail stations as well as beauty rooms, and it was there that Kalnina began to develop her first products. “I was using a different brand, a very popular one, but didn’t feel the quality was right. And I’m an entrepreneur, I always feel the drive to develop, open or create something, so, I thought why not try and make my own polish?”, she says. Initially, the products were created solely for use in the salon, and after 18 months of development, Kalnina began using them on her clients. “I wanted to offer long-lasting, quality nails that I could work with easily, with a great shine and no shrinking, lifting or chipping,” she says. “Those issues that every nail tech had, I wanted to troubleshoot them.” >
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It was Kalnina’s clients who told her she should start selling the products and she admits that making the move into retail and distribution was a huge learning curve. “I don’t even know how I came up with the pricing at first,” she says. “I guess, at the beginning, I didn’t quite believe people would buy from the website I’d created myself, but I hustled and people did buy. At the beginning I charged £10.50, then down the line I realised, ‘oh, I have expenses and I need to grow the business’, and £10.50 couldn’t possibly cover all that so I had to put up my prices but the customers stuck with me.”
Instagram don’t have enough time, or don’t have that passion for it, and put someone else in charge, but people see through that.” While TGB’s team has expanded and more people now work on the social accounts, Kalnina still posts regularly herself. Getting the product onto the talons of some major celebrities has undoubtedly contributed to TGB’s social following but Kalnina says these endorsements have come primarily from session techs choosing to use the product rather than through paid promotions. “We pay three ambassadors around the world to get the product on as many celebrities as they can, but mostly it’s by accident,” she adds. “Techs come to us because they want to offer trendy colours and good quality to their end user, and that might be Kendall Jenner.”
“Eventually, I want to go into make-up to open us up to more retail spaces”
Social skills With almost a quarter of a million Instagram followers, it’s clear that social media has played a huge role in The Gel Bottle (TGB)’s growth, but Kalnina says there’s no big secret to cracking the marketing tool; rather it’s about retaining control of the message and showing personality. “You need to consistent, but more importantly, you need to interact,” she says. “I think brands that don’t achieve much on
Challenge accepted
Clockwise from top: Kalnina in the lab; a panel Q&A during the launch of Peacći ; The Gel Bottle team; products in The Gel Bottle brand; the newer Peacći products
Like any business that expands quickly, The Gel Bottle has faced its share of challenges. Last year, a disagreement with Premier Gel, the brand set up by Kalnina’s former partner, went public on social media, and on the day we met at the company’s Brighton offices, news had just broken of a court case regarding a shortfall of product in some of TGB’s stock. Commenting on the latter, Kalnina says, “Our suppliers let us down but ultimately it’s our fault, and we admitted that. It’s easy once you know – you send it to a national laboratory, they’ll pick out random samples and do your in-house testing – but we missed that [step] because we were growing so fast.”
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Kalnina remains stoic about the impact of such publicity and in fact says it has actually helped to grow her social media following. “People found out about us and when they got to know us, they started to love us,” she says. “But I’d still rather grow steadily without any dramas than going through this craziness.” While in some ways it has been a tough year for Kalnina, she says it’s her team that have made the subsequent successes possible. “I have great people around me because I offer my team very personal treatment. They are not just staff, we are friends,” she adds.
Consumer demand Any challenges have certainly not dampened Kalnina’s entrepreneurial spirit either. Earlier this year she launched an entirely new brand, Peacći, which comprises clothing as well as nail polish. It’s available to trade but is primarily positioned as a consumer lifestyle brand, which, she says, is “a totally different ballgame”, adding, “With professional products, you get loyal customers, and they keep on ordering from you, whereas consumers make one purchase, then you need to hustle for the next one.” For that reason, she’s working to get Peacći into major retailers and is already plotting some brand extensions. “Eventually, I want to go into make-up to open us up to more retail spaces, so ideally, I would love to get into Boots or somewhere similar,” says Kalnina, who has already secured wider trade distribution for the brand via Salons Direct. For The Gel Bottle brand, Kalnina also has international distributors in 15 countries
including the US, Australia and Spain, and is now looking to grow that, seeking new partnerships specifically in Canada and the GCC region of the Middle East. Despite such a strong export business, she remains unfazed about the potential impact of Brexit. “Benelux is one of our biggest distributors here in Europe. They would suffer if there are extra duties put on top but I think it’s going to be fine. We will deal with whatever comes,” she says. Last year, TGB launched The Gel Bottle Academy, and the training school also features heavily in the company’s international expansion plans. With 11 UK locations, Kalnina is now looking to take it worldwide but admits that navigating different regulations is proving tricky. “Every country is so different. In the US we couldn’t launch accredited courses, for example, because you need to offer two-year courses to your students to become manicurists,” she says. “So, we’ll run simple courses there to learn about the product without accreditation. Here, on the other hand, everything’s accredited.” While international growth might be at the front of Kalnina’s mind, she is also looking to dramatically grow the UK operation. “Our marketing department is going to double in size and we will be moving all our production to the UK too,” she says. Currently, product is all manufactured in China, using ingredients sourced from around the world. “Soon, we’ll have our own lab with an in-house chemist so we’ll mix our own products, because it takes a long time to develop a product when the lab is so far away,” says Kalnina. “That’s underway and we hope it will happen next year.” PB
KEY DATES 2001 Daisy Kalnina gets her first taste of the nail industry at age 14, working in her mother’s salon 2012 After a few years working for her familly’s construction business, she leaves to launch her first nail tech business from home 2013 Opens her first salon on Preston Street in Brighton 2014 Relocates to a larger premises with 10 nail stations and beauty rooms, begins to develop own products 2015 Launches The Gel Bottle Inc collection of gel polishes 2018 Launches The Gel Bottle Academy to train nail techs in the system 2019 Following fast growth for The Gel Bottle, Kalnina launches consumer lifestyle brand Peacći
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2019 Launches
70 Next gen brows
Missing the point
Clients went wild for the launch of brow lamination – a new treatment that creates natural-looking, brushed up brows by chemically straightening and setting the hairs in place. Seeing the potential for the treatment to supersede microblading in popularity, pro brands quickly launched in-depth training so salons could add it to their menu. HD Brows unveiled its Browsculpt (pictured) Course, which covers how to achieve lamination’s perfect symmetry and correct uneven tails, while The Eyelash Design Company launched HiBrow Lamination, a course that teaches artists how to deliver fluffy, groomed brows that last up to eight weeks.
Needle-free injector pens took off in a huge way in 2019. One of the frontrunners was Meso-Jet from The Smart Group, which is designed to deliver precise amounts of product directly into the subcutaneous and intradermal areas of the skin, using low pressure gas. It launched with a range of peptide and stem cell treatments targeted at everything from skin brightening to hair regrowth. Since then, several needle-free injector devices have hit the market, and while they’re proving popular, concerns haven been raised about some of the newer devices used to inject hyaluronic acid into the lips, so salons are being advised to do their research thoroughly before adopting this trend.
Most
INNOVATIVE 2019
launches Drama queen With the lash extensions sector going from strength to strength, 2019 saw the volume look undergo a transformation, allowing artists to create the most dramatic sets yet. At the head of the trend was Novalash’s London Volume technique (pictured top), which the brand says is its most voluminous treatment to date, creating a bolder look using large fans made from thinner, lighter lashes in a variety of lengths. Meanwhile, Sweet Squared’s lash brand Lashus launched extensions into the market (right), offering a more dramatic full-volume style using a range of individual lashes and pre-made fans.
We asked you to vote online for the treatments and products that shaped the year. Here’s what made 2019 such an innovative 12 months in beauty
Bare necessities Classic extensions were also revamped this year, with new techniques delivering the most natural-looking lash sets to date. Nail Harmony entered the market with Lash Extend (pictured right), delivering extremely subtle classic lashes by focusing on the one-by-one technique, while Lash Perfect launched its British treatment (left), achieving low-key and low-maintenance lashes for clients who want minimal definition. Meanwhile, distributor Re:New Beauty launched lash-extension brand Moka & Sarah, which uses a Japanese technique to create soft, fluffy lashes that slightly taper out at the corner of the eye. For clients who want even less upkeep, Hive and Lashus both launched lash lift treatments too.
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Pillar of strength
Sea change
The nail market saw builder gels step up a gear to rave reviews. Top innovations included Orly’s all-inone extension product Gelfx Builder in a Bottle – a soak-off sculpting gel that applies like a soft gel but wears like a hard gel. It was praised by techs for its ease of use because there’s no sticky residue or need for separate pots. Meanwhile, The Gel Bottle Inc launched its time-saving shimmer Builder in a Bottle range. The multitasking soakoff products are for sculpting extensions with added sparkle for a stunning finish.
With the impact of SPF usage on the environment in the spotlight, reef-safe sunscreens were a priority for the industry. Environmentalists highlighted the issues surrounding ingredients oxybenzone and octinoxate, which have been reported to be harmful for marine ecosystems, and as such pro brands developed sun lotion ranges formulated without these filters. Caudalie’s Suncare Range contains five products developed with guaranteed non-toxicity filters, while Comfort Zone’s Water Soul SPF30 is free from all harmful ingredients, using a DNA-defence biomimetic peptide instead to protect skin. Marinefocused brand Thalgo is also a frontrunner in developing ocean-friendly sun care, having done it for many years.
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71
High profile Cannabidiol (CBD oil) took the beauty industry by storm, becoming one of the most talked about ingredients of the year. With research detailing the anti-inflammatory and anti-ageing properties of the hemp-derived oil, CBD was soon worked into a range of products and treatments. Some of the big launches included Simply CBD Bronzer, the UK’s first range of CBD oil-infused tanning solutions; sheet mask specialist Barber Pro’s CBD Oil Mask, which helps restore uneven skin tone; and the arrival of organic CBD-formulated body care collection Pineapple Express, which is distributed in the UK by Strip Distribution.
Skin deep Although we know prebiotics and probiotics are good for our gut, growing evidence has shown that they are also good for our skin, which is why 2019 saw more skincare brands harness live bacteria in products than ever before. Popular launches included Murad’s Prebiotic 4-in-1 MultiCleanser, a gel-to-oil formula that contains prebiotic powder to feed the skin’s good bacteria, and Prebiotic 3-in1 MultiMist, which features yeast peptide to balance the skin’s microbiome. Plus, therapists loved Image Skincare’s Purifying Probiotic Masque, formulated with yoghurtbased probiotics and antioxidant superfruits to purify skin.
Level up 2019 saw the advanced exfoliating treatment hydradermabrasion facial take off in a big way and cement its place on many salons’ menus. HydraFacial launched its Elite machine, which uses patented VortexFusion technology to cleanse, extract and hydrate skin, offering a multi-step treatment that combines hydradermabrasion with a chemical peel, extractions, LED and more. Meanwhile, 3D-lipo’s 3D-HydraO2 Facial device is designed to target hydration, oxygenation, anti-ageing, congestion and skin brightening, using seven different technologies, including the Hydro Peel function, which uses a combination of three solutions to help with bacteria and inflammation. >
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2019 Launches
72 Breath of fresh air
Leave no trace
With the UK’s pollution problem only getting worse, new and advanced products and treatments landed to help defend skin against the fumes. Spa brand Pevonia harnessed the power of micronised charcoal in its Radiance Charcoal Mask to pull toxins out of the skin, while Nimue worked the ingredient into its Skin Thermal Detox Peel, combining it with a thermo-sensory mechanism to aid oxygenation of cells. Meanwhile, Venus Concept’s Venus Glow device was developed to nourish skin that’s been severely dehydrated by pollution, SBC’s Green Caviar Perfecting Moisturiser strengthens the skin’s barrier with its amino-acid and mineral-rich formula; and Sothys Detox Energie Treatment uses a mask system to energise and protect skin.
While age-related pigmentation from UV damage has been a major concern for consumers for a few years, 2019 saw the focus in innovation shift towards the marks left by acne or other scarring. In spring, Dermalogica launched Age Bright Clearing Serum and Spot Fader into its adult acne range, with niacinamide and white shitake included to brighten and even skin tone, while in summer, Murad’s Invisiscar Resurfacing Treatment hit the market, developed to work on the size, depth, texture, thickness and discolouration of blemish scars with salicylic acid, tiger grass and vitamin C among other ingredients.
Glow ahead Celebrity make-up artist Armand Beasley made his first foray into product manufacture in October, with the launch of Pro Body Glow, an innovative little balm that gives skin a sheen while also deeply conditioning. Billed as “beegan” beauty, it’s a collaboration with BuzzBalm Beauty, a brand that makes skin products from beehive ingredients using sustainable practices. However, this is just the first step for Beasley who has ambitious plans to launch a full range of natural, vegan and sustainable colour cosmetics in 2020.
Keep calm Shade finder The make-up industry saw an influx of shade-inclusive ranges this year as clients called for more diversity in collections. One brand leading the charge was Mii Cosmetics, with its 16-shade-strong Velvet Radiance Face Base foundation collection, which featured AfroCaribbean and Vietnamese models in the campaign (pictured). Meanwhile, disability-friendly make-up also took centre stage as brands focused on being all inclusive. For example, Grace Beauty launched with a range of mascaras with different-shaped handles for those with mobility issues.
Following the huge trend for peels and products with highpercentage active ingredients, many brands focused on repairing and calming products in 2019. Elemis launched Cica Calm booster to treat sensitive skin and reduce redness, plus an accompanying Superfood Pro-Radiance Facial; while Thalgo’s new Peeling Marin line featured calming post-peel products including Soothing Repairing Balm. Age-focused repair was also on the agenda as Germaine de Capuccini’s Time Expert SRNS launched to help skin protect itself during the day and regenerate at night, with 22 different active ingredients, and Eve Taylor’s Rejuvenating Aromatic Serum supported loss of elasticity and texture in post-menopausal skin with oils including clary sage and galbanum.
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Cool tools
Understanding epigenetics
Following the popularity of Brit nail equipment brand Navy in 2018, more cool tool brands were launched this year by former or current salon owners who know what’s been missing from their kits. In autumn, Nail pro Katie Barnes launched the KB Form Tailoring Range including scissors, C-Curve pinching clips and nail foil supports; while back in summer, Angelica Retreat owner Gillian Potter created Flexi, a line of tools to retail to clients for them to maintain results of advanced facials. It includes a rose quartz roller, silicone cleansing brush, dermal-roller and more.
One of the beauty buzzwords of the year, epigenetics relates to the modification of gene expression in skin’s processes. In autumn, Dermalogica launched Phyto-Nature Firming Serum to help reinfoce the skin’s defences by combining active botanicals with sapphire-bound biomimetic peptides to reduce exposome-driven ageing. QMS Medicosmetics also got in on the act with the launch of EpiGen Pollution Rescue Overnight Mask, designed to revitalise tired-looking skin as the wearer sleeps and boost its resistance to stressors. Botanical ingredients include extracts of paracress, marjoram leaf and tephrosia purpurea seed.
The full package Having expanded from just tanning to include waxing back in 2016 and brows in 2018, Sienna X launched an entire skincare range this summer, turning the company into a full-service salon brand. Its 11-piece collection features some on-trend ingredients and textures, with hero products including Retinol Serum, Chemical Peel and Cleansing Balm. Other staples in the range include day and eye creams, two masks, an exfoliating facial polish, facial oil, toning solution and cleansing lotion. All but one of the products are veganfriendly, which has also been a huge focus for consumers this year, making the line-up one to watch.
2019 Launches
73
In the mix Combining oil and water-based actives in a supplement has traditionally been a difficult task, but Advanced Nutrition Programme made a breakthrough this summer with Skin Moisture Lock. Its soft gel formulation blends oilbased ceramides to seal in moisture at the epidermal layer and help support the skin’s barrier, with waterbased hyaluronic acid to smooth and plump the skin. The product is recommended for clients with aged, dehydrated or sensitive skin and for those exposed to pollution.
Right on target
In the frame
Body shaping became more targeted in 2019, with launches that promised precise action on stubborn areas of fat. At the start of the year, Lynton’s Onda device made headlines for its Coolwaves – trademarked microwave technology that bypasses the top layers of skin tissue to deliver more energy directly to the subcutaneous fat cells. Then in spring, CACI created Sculpt, using muscle impulse stimulation combined with bio feedback auto adjustment technology, which constantly measures and adjusts the device’s electrical impulses to sync with the client’s heartbeat.
As lash and brow treatments continued to boom, focus returned to the area they frame, with a multitude of treatments launching to give the eye area a lift. In autumn, Lash Perfect created its first eye ritual, iRevive (pictured), which works on dark circles and puffiness using microcurrent to boost elasticity. Meanwhile, Eye Lift Treatment was one of the biggest 2019 launches from skincare brand Guinot, and also incorporates technology, involving application of Eye Gel Serum around the eye contour and forehead using electrode balls. Payot also backed the trend with Patch Regard Anti-Fatigue Lifting Express, under-eye patches with collagen peptides. PB
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Nail Notes
75
SHAPE of
things
E
Kirsty Meakin
to come Award-winning nail tech Kirsty Meakin gives us the lowdown on the nail trends set to take 2020 by storm, including ruffles, frills and bold colour clashes
xaggerated frills, wild ruffles, bold colour clashes and super-sheer pastels are just some of the trends set to take the nail world by storm next year. Award-winning nail tech and YouTuber Kirsty Meakin tells us why these designs are going to be big in 2020 and how you can translate them into wearable looks for clients.
What will be the top nail art trends for 2020? “Next year, the trends will be ruffles, frills and fringing, so for techs it’s about working these shapes and movements into wearable nail designs. In terms of hues, super-sheer pastels are set to be big and a colour combination that will be huge is hot pink and khaki. I never would have thought that mix would work but it was on the London Fashion Week SS20 catwalks and it looked phenomenal.”
How can techs translate these trends into wearable looks for clients?
Kirsty Meakin
“If you look at the frills that were on the catwalks, they were very exaggerated and large. When working these trends into a wearable nail design for salon clients you have to pay attention to the shades, movements and highlights on the garments, and then start from there. “For example, when I look at ruffles I think the way they hang emulates a marble effect, because of the wavy-style movement, so I would take that idea
and work it into a full set. However, I do find it easier to look at a flat image of a catwalk look rather than a video when searching for inspiration.”
Which trends do you think will fall out of favour? “I feel like the holographic chrome nails are dying a death and glass nails will filter out towards the end of 2020. When scrolling through Instagram, I see these nail looks all the time and I’m like, ‘same, same, same, same’ – these designs have been overdone. “To stand out in this industry, you have to create designs that are a little different. You need to pay attention to how fashion is moving forward and go from there. However, I do think French ombré will stick around because it’s still really popular.”
Where do you get your inspiration from? “The things that inspire me are fabrics, cultures and objects that people wouldn’t automatically think of getting inspiration from, like an item at an art exhibition or a piece of furniture in my house. For example, I’ve been inspired by a pattern on my door and the crystalware in my lights before. “I always think about how I can take the texture or design from something and work it on a mini scale because the nails we do these days are like tiny masterpieces. My best nail art looks come to me in bed just before I’m about to fall asleep.”
Kirsty Meakin is an award-winning nail tech, YouTuber and 2019 Professional Beauty North speaker. She has 15.3K YouTube subscribers and 131K Instagram followers.
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Operational Advice
77
By the
hour
Whatever hours your staff work, it’s vital you detail them clearly in your contracts and understand the many laws involved, advises David Wright
S
taff in salons work many different patterns of hours from weekly to monthly or seasonal. But whatever the hours, their contract needs to accurately describe them and the employees need to work within the legal rules. The European Working Time Regulations govern working hours and breaks and are based on health and safety regulations. Breaking these rules can result in an unlimited fine. It is important salon owners are aware of the current legal position because managing the working hours of staff can greatly enhance the efficiency of your salon. The European Working Time Directive was introduced in 1996 to ensure staff had paid holiday, limits on hours of work, and rest breaks. Special provisions were introduced for young workers aged under 18.
The rules The maximum working week for an adult worker is 48 hours per week (averaged over a period of 17 weeks). Staff can opt out of this ceiling but can withdraw that agreement at any time, subject to four weeks’ notice. Young workers cannot opt out and their maximum is 40 hours. Employees must have at least one day off per week or two per fortnight. Young workers must have two days off per week. If the working day extends beyond six hours, staff are entitled to a minimum break of 20 minutes (which can be paid or unpaid; few salons give paid breaks). Young workers must have a 30-minute break after 4.5 hours. The maximum working day is 13 hours (12 for young workers). Employees working five days a week should receive at least 28 days paid annual leave, including bank holidays. There is no legal definition of “full time”. Salons have therapists they call full time working anywhere between 36 and 48 hours a week. Equally, there is no legal entitlement to a higher rate of pay for working additional hours or on a bank holiday.
Getting it right •Y our contract should specify contractual working hours, breaks, and whether these are paid or unpaid. • I f staff are likely to work beyond the 48 hours per week, obtain their written agreement. You cannot impose this in your contract. • T he 28 days’ annual leave includes bank holidays. If you open on bank holidays, specify the holiday entitlement as 28 days rather than 20 days plus bank holidays. You can fix the dates of holidays for staff; for example, no holidays in December or no more than four Saturdays. • T he rules on breaks are clear: minimum 20 minutes per day after six hours. There is no legal entitlement to tea or cigarette breaks. If you give discretionary breaks, reserve the right to insist they are lost when the salon is busy.
Paid breaks In reality, few employers pay for staff breaks and often do so for the wrong reasons. Staff are entitled to a break and should be free to leave the workplace if they wish. Paying for the break doesn’t mean staff can be on standby or answer the phone. Be clear about working time. For example, beware of asking staff to report for work 15 minutes early to be ready for the first client of the day or to attend training on their day off, especially if it’s unpaid. PB
David Wright is a consultant in all aspects of employment practice and law. He is the main employment law consultant for Habia and provides a personalised support service for UK salons. 01302 563691 davidwrightpersonnel.co.uk
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Treatment News
80 Lash Perfect British Lash Perfect British is a look created with extensions and designed to be low maintenance and suitable for clients who want a more natural effect, such as city workers, busy mums or first-time extension wearers. It is also particularly suited to fair-haired clients. Lash Perfect has also launched a new clear adhesive, Ultimate II Clear, for use in the treatment. The look can be created using either British Tray Lashes, packs of C curl lashes from 7–12mm, or British Pre-Styled, smaller packs that contain a wider variety of different lashes per pack, including both black and brown in 0.05 and 0.15 thicknesses, from 7–10mm. Lash Perfect advises combining black and brown to give a natural effect, and adding in some 0.15 Flat Lashes in a 9mm to add volume, some B curl in 0.07 to give a three-dimensional look, and a few longer 11 or 12mm 0.10 Lashes to add “whisp”. The Eyelash Design Company recommends charging from £50 for the treatment. Contact the company on 020 8500 9028
Targeting
TEXTURE
New microneedling and dermaplaning protocols get skin texture in top condition, and we trial Light Elegance’s hard gel mani
Nimue Microneedling Nimue Skin Technology has launched microneedling treatments, in which the skin is gently punctured with a cylindrical roller device studded with 192 sterile, fine, stainless steel needles. The process stimulates the body’s natural wound healing and the production of collagen is increased, as well as creating micro-channels that enhance the penetration of active ingredients applied to the skin. With minimal downtime, the treatment claims to refine skin texture and reduce signs of ageing while being minimally invasive and keeping the epidermal layer intact.
The treatment is suitable for walk-ins and is possible without medical supervision or anaesthetic. It is also available to clients with thinner skin who may not be able to have peels. Nimue will be offering one-day education courses in Leeds, Dublin, Edinburgh and Bridgend for those with a Nimue Core Education and Level 3 Beauty Therapy qualification, including training in facial electrical units. Nimue recommends charging £110 for the 60-minute treatment. Contact UK distributor Sweet Squared on 0333 000 7000
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Skincare brand BeautyLab has created a protocol and training course for dermaplaning. Workshops are due to begin early next year, taught by celebrity facialist and international trainer Nicola Russell. The treatment involves the controlled scraping of the skin using a sterile, surgical blade held at a 45-degree angle, which removes fine vellus hair and keratinised cells on the outer stratum corneum. BeautyLab says there is no downtime and hair will not grow back stubbly post-treatment due to its targeting of specific hairs. As well as exfoliating the skin, the treatment is designed to minimise the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and acne scars, as well as leaving skin smooth and vibrant. Additionally, the treatment is suitable for preparing skin for peels and enzyme treatments. Alongside hands-on skills, BeautyLab will train therapists in dermaplaning safety, competitive pricing, integration into existing BeautyLab treatments, offering it as an add-on and creating signature treatments.
Treatment News
BeautyLab Dermaplaning
BeautyLab recommends charging an additional £15– £20 for the treatment. Contact distributor Gerrard International on 0345 217 1360
This month we tried… Light Elegance Hard Gel Manicure The lowdown: After announcing its partnership with US nail brand Light Elegance at the start of this year, Sweet Squared has been distributing the company’s hard colour gels, glitter gels and ButterCreams (colour gels) in the UK ever since. The brand’s hard gel system is easy to use, suitable for all skin types and claims to not damage the natural nail. The experience: My hard gel manicure was with nail tech and Light Elegance educator Victoria Trafford at Sweet Squared’s headquarters in Leeds. After cleansing my hands with sanitiser gel and filing my nails into my chosen shape – squoval – Trafford performed an in-depth consultation, telling me my nails were in good shape but that I was suffering from dehydration on the tips.
After doing some dry prep using Light Elegance’s Cuticle Work, Trafford tidied up my nails and removed surface shine using a 240 grit Perfect File. Excess dust was removed with Duster Brush and my nails were cleansed, before a thin layer of the brand’s bonding agent Tack was applied and left to cure for 30 seconds under an LED lamp. With the nails ready for hard gel, Trafford applied a thin layer of self-levelling One Step in Clear using the #4 Oval Bling Brush, then cured. A layer of purple Sitting Pretty in a Penthouse from the Champagne and Caviar Collection was applied using #6 Gel Polish Bling Brush, cured for 30 seconds, and then followed by another layer, and cured. On the accent nails, Trafford applied a layer of copper glitter Indian Summer from the Cozy up to the Fall Collection and cured for 30 seconds. The glitter was then encapsulated with a thin layer of 1-Step to even out the nail surface, cured for 30 seconds. Trafford finished with a cured layer of top coat Super Shiny and application of cuticle oil. The verdict: I loved the finished result. The glitter was really pigmented, giving an impressive finish, and when the gel was removed my natural nails were still in good health. Business benefits: The brand’s products are known in the nail community for their durability, so this is definitely a range to have in your arsenal if clients want longlasting results. Plus, there’s a huge variety of gels to choose from, split into categories based on the ease of use for techs, so there’s something for every skill level. Tried by Amanda Pauley Light Elegance recommends charging from £25 for the treatment. Call UK distributor Sweet Squared on 0333 000 7000 professionalbeauty.co.uk
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New Products
83 Skin Regimen The millennial skincare brand from the makers of Comfort Zone has launched four new products to its Shave and Hydrate line. Shaving Gel features Tasmanian pepper extract and has an aromatic herb aroma, Hydra Fluid is a double-use moisturising liquid packed with organic superfoods, Hand Cream includes holy basil, which can increase the resistance of the body to stress and toxins, and Roll-On is an aromatherapy concentrate incorporating juniper berries, cedarwood and rosewood. Trade: £12.50 for Shaving Gel; £29 for Hydra Fluid; £10 for Hand Cream; £9 for Roll-On 020 3096 1752 skinregimen.com
Body
BOOST
Brands are getting serious about body care this month with launches to get clients’ skin nourished and bronzed
Dermalogica Image Skincare Image Skincare has relaunched its Ormedic collection, removing ingredients that could cause sensitivity and also developing a new product to add to the range: Balancing Gel Polisher. The skin refiner uses caviar lime extract, a natural alpha hydroxy acid, to gently dissolve dead skin, while pomegranate fruit enzyme increases cellular renewal, leaving skin brighter and smoother. Other key ingredients include olive seed powder, bamboo spheres and smartsensing beads. Trade: £19 per 91g 0345 504 0461 imageskincare.co.uk
Dermalogica has launched two body products influenced by traditional bathing rituals. The first, Phyto Replenish Body Oil, combines oils of French plum seed, avocado and sunflower seed to protect the skin’s lipid barrier, while fermented red ginseng, bergamot and neroli leave skin soft and nourished. Thermafoliant Body Scrub is a dual-action, warming body exfoliant, which uses Indian bamboo stem, papain and natural sea salt to smooth and brighten skin. Trade: £19.10 for the scrub; £23 for the oil 0800 917 7147 dermalogica.co.uk
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New Products
84 Light Elegance Countering winter’s darkness with colour, Light Elegance has launched Champagne & Caviar, a new range of colour gels and glitters. Emerald green Made of Money, rich red First Class Only, chocolate Bougie Babe, red Living Lavish, mulberry Pampered to Perfection and pink Sitting Pretty in a Penthouse make up the colour gels, with silver Expensive, purple Mrs. Got Rocks, holographic Rolling in Glitter, red Richy & Bitchy, white Iced Up and green Gaudy but Gorgeous representing the glitter gel line-up. Trade: £88.95 for full sets; £18.95 for individual shades 0333 000 7000 (Sweet Squared) sweetsquared.com
Mii
Murad
Available in two shades, Mii’s new Pure Wonder Brightener combines light-reflecting pigment and hydrating plant-derived squalene to counter dark circles and puffiness and help restore skin’s suppleness. The two shades, Revive and Refresh, are suited for fair and warmer skin tones respectively and give clients’ complexions a layer of natural luminosity. Trade: £10.50 0345 217 1360 (Gerrard International) gerrardinternational.com
Murad’s latest launch, Replenishing Multi-Acid Peel, is a daily, bi-phase peel that aims to increase cell renewal. The first phase uses AHAs, BHA and TXA to exfoliate for smoothness and brightness. The second phase uses adaptogenic herb holy basil alongside soothing lipids to nourish skin and give it strength. Murad says tests have shown that skin cell renewal accelerates by 33% after seven days of the product’s use. Trade: £26 for 100ml 0844 472 7050 murad.co.uk
Environ The Ultimate 2019 Festive Gift Collection brings a range of new sets from Environ, including the extensive Skin EssentiA and Focus Care sets, which include tailored toners, gels, moisturisers and oil capsules. The Ultimate Youth Gift Set comes with a complimentary hanging travel bag, and the Gold Roll-CIT Gift Set is packaged with a 14-caratgold-plated Roll-CIT. Also available is the limited-edition Supersize Super Moisturiser+, which is 50ml larger than the standard booster bottles. Trade: from £20 to £137.50 020 8450 2020 (IIAA) iiaa.eu professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Mavala Designed to tackle skin discomfort, sensitivity and lack of elasticity due to a lack of lipids, Mavala has launched the Anti-Age Nutrition lipid replenishing Skincare range. Included is the fortifying day and night Anti-Age Nutrition Ultimate Cream, revitalising Anti-Age Nutrition Essential Serum and rich Anti-Age Nutrition Absolute Night Balm. Each product uses Swiss linseed oil, a patented pro-lipid booster and bioactivated vegetal oils complex. Trade: £20.62 for 30ml Essential Serum; £15.34 for 45ml Ultimate Cream; £17.10 for 65ml Night Balm 01732 459412 mavala.co.uk
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Gellux Nail brand Gellux has launched winter collection Keep a Secret containing eight shades. Hush Hush is a dusky mauve; Sweet Little Lies a purple glitter; Truth or Dare a deep red; Rule Breaker a mulberry tone; Poker Face a brighter red; Looking For Me a purple shimmer; Secret Service a rich navy; and Secret Life a chunky metallic glitter. Each is suitable for use on natural nails or extensions. Trade: £11.95 per 15ml 020 8573 9907 (Salon System) salonsystem.com
Nouveau Lashes
Lecenté
Lash specialist Nouveau has launched the Triple Enhance Lash Serum, which uses a triple-peptide complex to enhance length, increase volume and improve the strength of lashes. Formulated with multifunctional proteins and an anti-pollution complex, and infused with multi-vitamins, antioxidants and panthenol, the serum protects from free radical damage by reducing the adhesion of harmful particles to lashes. The result is minimised breakage and brittleness and improved moisture and shine. Trade: £15.99 for 15ml 01977 655620 nouveaulashes.com
Lecenté’s Winter Collection features four new foils with the colours Red Shimmer and Pine Shimmer, which offer a Christmas-inspired style, autumnal Burnt Orange and simple Black Foil. Lecenté has also teamed up with Bioglitter to provide high-quality and eco-friendly alternatives to plastic-based glitter in rose-gold shade Acorn; silver Winter; golden Sunshine; magenta Lotus; grape-toned Orchard and blue River. Trade: £3.99 per foil; £4.95 each for bioglitters 0333 000 7000 (Sweet Squared) sweetsquared.com professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Sienna X
ANP Advanced Nutrition Programme has launched its 2019 Christmas Collection, consisting of three different sets. Each includes ANP’s latest innovation, Skin Youth Biome, among other, tailored capsules: The Ageless Beauty set includes Skin Vit A+ capsules for skin cell renewal and skin rejuvenation, the Perfectly Clear set features award-winning Skin Accumax capsules for healthy-looking skin, and the Radiant Glow set supports a luminous complexion with Skin Omega+ capsules. Trade: £27.50– £52.50 020 8450 2020 (iiaa) Iiaa.eu
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The Winter Miracle Gift Set, consisting of a Miracle Mask, Sleep Tanning Drops and sachets of Facial Oil, Retinol Serum, Day Cream and Eye Cream, is one of three Christmas sets launched by Sienna X. Also available is The Deepest Winter Glow Gift Set, which features the new Ultra Dark Q10 Tinted Self Tan Lotion along with a mitt and some sample sachets, and The Winter Calm Gift Set, with cleansing balm and some sachets. Trade: £54 for Winter Miracle; £39.95 Winter Calm; £19.95 Deepest Winter Glow 0333 600 1200 sienna-x.co.uk
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Classified
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CALL GABRIEL LARTEY on 020 3841 7376 or email gabriel@professionalbeauty.co.uk
Recruitment
BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER Guinot-Mary Cohr are recruiting for a dynamic Business Development Manager to grow our Mary Cohr brand in the Southern UK and Channel Isles. ABOUT THE ROLE The role will consist of supporting our existing business through development and training and generating new business through prospecting. You must be a qualified therapist to level 3 standard with experience in a similar field sales role. The starting salary is £29,515 plus commission and fully expensed company car. HOW TO APPLY If you are interested in this vacancy please email with your CV and Cover Letter to Michelle.Kyaing@GuinotMaryCohr.com
Hakan Altay
Project2_Layout 1 05/03/2019 14:35 Page 1
Supplies
RENTAL OPPORTUNITIES We are looking for someone to rent the salon hairdressing chairs for £500 per week. The beauty room is also for rent of £500 per week. The salon is located in London Mayfair, Park Lane. It is a luxury Salon only minutes away from Marble Arch station in a 5 star surrounding. Email your CV and Cover Letter to altayparklane@yahoo.co.uk if you are interested.
CLASSIFIEDS
TO ADVERTISE YOUR COMPANY Call GABRIEL LARTEY on 020 3841 7376 or email gabriel@professionalbeauty.co.uk
SEE OUR DEALS ON WAXING SUPPLIES
www.butterfly-supplies.co.uk Everyday essentials for therapists
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Career Path
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How to make it as a...
salon
MANAGER Being the boss isn’t always easy. Jo Weller, manager of Mooeys salon in Farnham, tells us about taking on extra responsibility and what it takes to manage a team
1. Get a broad range of experience “I didn’t ever see myself being a manager. I’ve worked in lots of different environments within the industry including salons, spas, health clubs and as a self-employed therapist. Trying different roles helps you to know which field is best suited to you, and to better understand the challenges when you start managing people who do those roles. “If anyone knew me when I started out 20 years ago, they’d know that I’m a completely different person now. When people ask to see the manager, I sometimes still can’t believe that means me.”
2. Accept that it’s a learning curve “I applied for a casual therapist role at Mooeys four and a half years ago but they must have seen potential in me because Amy [Lewis, the owner] decided to interview me for a manager role instead. “Initially I was unsure. I’d just done teacher training and was thinking of becoming a trainer, but I’ve relished the management role ever since. “I’m always learning. I cannot tell you how glad I am that I got the job because it has taught me so much about dealing with people, whether that’s handling members of the public, employing staff or managing the team.”
3. Set boundaries “You need to set guidelines so that your team know what’s expected of them. Be quite firm with that, but be fair too. You have to know the individual limits of each team member. “A lot of my team are younger than me, so I sometimes have to adapt to how things are done these days, like them texting in when they’re sick.
I still expect them to give me a call. “We’re all great friends in our salon, but there is a line that they know not to cross, and one I know not to cross too. On a personal level, it can sometimes be difficult being so close to your team and also being their boss, but I think we’ve hit the right balance.”
4. Be supportive “First and foremost, let them know that you’re there to support them. You never know if an employee has things going on at home. If they know you’re there from the start, they’ll want to give back and do the best they can. “You have to want to see your team progress and succeed, and you have to help people when they need it. If you work for a manager and all they care about is how much money is coming in, then that’s always a struggle. “I’m always trying to develop the skills of my team. We do workshops and training sessions in the salon during quiet periods.”
5. It expands your horizons “Being a manager is certainly an eye-opener. It has made me interested in so many things that I wasn’t expecting; for example, the more psychological side of dealing with people. I would love to study psychology more, and to do a further teaching certificate. “I think if anybody has a managerial role in their sights, they should go for it. It’s a really rewarding job and can lead to other things if you want it to. Experience with difficult aspects like recruitment, staff management and HR issues will be a great stepping stone if you ever want to own a business.” PB
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