Product Of Change Autumn 2023

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PRODUCTS OF CHANGE

AUTUMN 2023: SUSTAINABILITY EDIT

SILC 23: WE’RE BACK FOR A WHOLE NEW ERA OF LICENSING The Sustainability in Licensing Conference returns to the Royal Geographical Society

RETAIL, RE-TOLD: THE RETAILERS CLOSING THEIR LOOPS Retail is shifting gear as more and more big names sign up for SBTi and climate action

LICENSING’S NEW DAWN: LEGISLATION, TRANSPARENCY, CIRCULARITY Get to grips with the pioneering systems change across the brand licensing and consumer products industry

FRESH-FACED AND PLASTIC-FREE We take a tour of Lush Cosmetics UK headquarters to find something truly scrumptious

MEMBER NEWS, INDUSTRY VIEWS PEOPLE

PURPOSE

DRIVING SUSTAINABILITY

REGENERATIVE

BUSINESS

MADE DIFFERENT. MADE * BETTER. Born from the Original Smiley® Brand, Future Positive® is our bold, long-term commitment to build a sustainable future for all. We want to take action, because making a change is essential for a better tomorrow.

Our Future Positive® products are made with responsibly-sourced materials that reduce harmful impacts on the natural environment.

We are grounded in optimism, remaining hopeful that with every positive step whether big or small, together we will impact change and our Future will be Positive.

For all partnership enquiries please contact sales@smiley.com

*Compared to regular products in our collection.

TM & © 1971 - 2023 The Smiley Company.

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LEADER COLUMN

MEET THE TEAM Robert Hutchins Editor

WELCOME

Helena MansellStopher Chief Executive Officer

A NEW ERA FOR LICENSING

A

nd we are back!

Back in the auditorium of the Royal Geographical Society in London to celebrate the latest advances of the Sustainability in Licensing journey and back in print to deliver another dose of the Products of Change magazine, the Autumn Sustainability Edit.

We’ve passed the full-year anniversary of the launch of this publication and it’s staggering to observe and document how far we, as an industry, have come in that time. Let SiLC 2023 be a true reflection of where sustainable action has brought us in the last 12 months as we explore the pioneering steps taken to bring circularity and systems change to the licensing space by some of its boldest and most innovative.

We are at an incredibly exciting time for business, and particularly for one like ours. Business models within our very orbit are beginning to explore circular economic systems to close the loop on their value streams, while delivering something truly unique and exciting to the brand licensing and consumer products sector. It’s through this orchestra of efforts and purpose-driven pioneering that we really mean when we say, we are witnessing the dawn of a new era for licensing.

The time is right now to feel energised by what we have accomplished so far, but hungry for so much more. The 2030 deadline to reach many of the global climate ambitions we have set is charging down on us. Let’s not miss the opportunity we the industry have started to make for ourselves and let’s embrace this moment for real change.

Rob Willis Director

Ian Hyder Director

Jakki Brown Director

This magazine has been created using fully recycled, FSC certified material, printed with vegetable ink and traditional saddle stitch techniques. We encourage you to share your copy and while we hope it stays on your shelf for a very long time, you can recycle it when you’re ready.

DRIVING SUSTAINABLE AND POSITIVE CHANGE ACROSS THE INDUSTRY Products Of Change Media Ltd United House North Road London, N7 9DP

For general enquiries contact: helena@productsofchange.com For press enquiries please contact the editor: rob@productsofchange.com

For advertising enquiries please contact: ianh@max-publishing.co.uk robw@max-publishing.co.uk Company Number: 12564033 ICO Registration: ZA777043

Copyright© 2023. While every effort has been made to ensure the information in this magazine was correct at the time of publication, the publishers cannot accept legal liability for any errors or omissions, nor can they accept responsibility for the standing of advertisers nor any organisation mentioned in the text. Views of contributors do not necessarily reflect those of the publishers.

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Want to know more?

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recyclable cardboard box packaging! costumes are sub printed NO GLITTER or additional processes! waste plastic is recycled & turned in to yarn!

100% recycled content costume

Machine washable!

Be Halloween ready with our sustainable skeleton & reaper costumes, Available now! Head to amscan.co.uk to learn more! @amscanuk @AmscanInternational @AmscanInternational

Part of the Wonder family

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CONTENTS

CONTENTS 26 WEAR AND BACK AGAIN

07 NEWS

The latest in sustainability updates from across the industries.

We look at one company’s strive for a circular system with innovative partnerships in reuse, resale, and upcycling.

14 SILC 2023 RETURNS

The Sustainability in Licensing Conference is back. We offer you a run-through of the day’s jam-packed agenda.

07

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18 RETAIL RE:TOLD

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We take a tour of the Lush HQ to learn about its very exciting proposition for the licensing industry.

37 MEMBER NEWS

POC Ambassador, James George serves some food for thought on incoming legislative changes.

The latest news from the Products of Change member base.

22 BEING TRANSPARENT

Dayrize, Pure Table Top, Fabacus, and Nobody’s Child talk transparency in the supply chain.

The Carbon Literacy Trust talks the importance of being carbon literate to start reducing impact.

32 FRESH FACED & PLASTIC FREE

The retail landscape is making major moves for sustainable development, aligning with SBTi and more.

21 AMBASSADOR OPINION: LEGISLATION

28 CARBON MISSIONS

42 SOMETHING TO CHEW OVER

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How the latest scientific findings could serve up a boom for the health foods market and licensing.

contact us to find out more

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OUR COMMITMENT IS TO CUT CARBON EMISSIONS BY 46% BY 2030 THIS NEAR-TERM TARGET MAINTAINS OUR PROGRESS ON THE PATH TOWARD ACHIEVING NET ZERO

OUR LANDSCAPES

OUR SEASCAPES

OUR WILDLIFE

OUR BIRDS

With your support, we can help protect our land, seascapes, wildlife, and birds by leading the industry with our plastic and carbon reduction commitments.

Our SBTi commitment to cut carbon emissions by 46% by 2030 sees us doing our bit to keep global warming to within 1.5°C. Our trailblazing range of plastic-free calendars and diaries now includes over 500 titles which are all printed on FSC stock.

Sales of our charity range help us give back to these organisations, supporting them in their invaluable work for our planet.

+44 (0)1392 826482 ADMIN@CAROUSELCALENDARS.CO.UK

WWW.CAROUSELCALENDARS.CO.UK Carousel Calendars – a subsidiary of ZEBRA MTD Ltd

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INDUSTRY NEWS

KEEPING YOU UP TO DATE WITH THE LATEST STORIES AYKROYD & SONS UNVEILS SOURCING FOR THE FUTURE REPORT

FC BARCELONA SETS CLIMATE GOALS IN FIRST SUSTAINABILITY REPORT

The licensed apparel specialist, Aykroyd & Sons has unveiled its Sourcing for the Future booklet, a compendium of the steps taken and successes the businesses has seen over the course of its sustainable journey so far.

Developed to be shared with Aykroyd’s customers, licensors, and all its business partners, the publication offers a new level of transparency over the production and development processes behind the company’s apparel portfolio.

Key points highlighted in Sourcing for the Future are the team’s approach to circularity in garment design as well as its ongoing investigation into closed loop operations and ways in which Aykroyds & Sons can recycle its garments.

“We care about how the products we buy and sell are made and want to make choices that benefit the environment and society,” said Sion Aykroyd, sales and licensing executive at Aykroyd & Sons. “We’ve created this resource to encapsulate all our work, share it with the industry and hopefully help escalate change.”

Following the Science Based Targets initiative, Aykroyd’s next step will be to have initiatives in place to target, measure, and report on its carbon footprint, enabling the team to track its scope 1 and 2 emissions.

“We hope the industry follows in recognising that each step businesses like ourselves take to confront the challenges facing our planet, will collectively build a more sustainable world,” said Sion.

FC Barcelona has published its first Sustainability Report for the 2020/21 and 2021/22 seasons as the club targets key areas of its impact including calculating its carbon footprint and taking steps to improve sustainability across its kit and merchandise.

The Sustainability Report provides information on the Club’s performance in economic, non-financial, social, and governance matters.

“With this strategic dedication to sustainability, the Board of Directors and the Club’s employees are making a commitment to our members and to our fans around the world to the development of an institutional club model that respects the planet and people,” said Joan Laporta I Estruch, president of FC Barcelona.

The 130-page report delivers a comprehensive look at the Club’s relationship with sustainable development and the many initiatives being run across the organisation to engage employees and fans around the world with its sustainable evolution. Within this sits a commitment to a sustainable overhaul of its merchandising. Last year, 90% of all sports kits used by FC Barcelona were produced using recycled materials, while products following eco-design criteria (using materials with less impact and less resourceintensive production processes, for instance), reached 18%, an increase on the season prior.

New circular economy projects were also promoted, including RePlayed, a collaborative project with BLM and the Ared Foundation to give second life to fans’ pre-loved scarves, turning them into an urban fashion collection.

CROCS TAKES NEXT STEP TOWARDS CIRCULARITY Crocs is taking steps to further its circularity ambition with the launch of a new Retail Takeback Pilot Programme, inviting customers to give their old Crocs new life.

Piloting in select Crocs retail stores across the US, the footwear brand will leverage its network of partnerships to give each returned pair a next use. Participating stores will be equipped with a collection box where customers can collect a free limited edition ‘Crocs Saver’ Jibbitz charm as a thank you.

“We’re excited to take this next step on our path toward innovating for a circular economy and a better future for footwear,”

said Deanna Bratter, vice president, global head of sustainability at Crocs. “This pilot programme aims to address both environmental and social challenges faced by the fashion industry when it comes to product waste.

“Together with our fans, we can unlock innovation and partnerships to effectively reduce waste, reuse our materials, keep shoes out of landfill, and help people in most need.”

Gently used Crocs will be donated to key partner Soles4Soulds, a not-for-profit which operates to create local economic benefits in communities.

Well-worn pairs will be repurposed with materials used for new Crocs shoes.

MATTEL ‘EXPLORING’ CIRCULAR ECONOMY AND BUSINESS MODEL INNOVATIONS Mattel is exploring a variety of new circular economy and business model innovations to extend the life of its products and keep materials in use for longer through resource recovery, the company’s lead engineer for quality and compliance, Elizabeth Eaves has told Products of Change.

The initiative is an extension of the work being carried out by the Mattel PlayBack programme which encourages families to send their well-loved toys back to Mattel where the team will repurpose and reuse the materials recovered.

Mattel has also teased a raft of new “sustainable products” to land across its brands in 2024, noting that the coming year will “likely see an evolution of the toy industry’s sustainability efforts driven by consumer demand, regulatory changes, and growing awareness of responsibility.”

“Companies will need to continue to adapt and innovate in response to these factors, striving to create toys that are not only entertaining but also align with the values of sustainability,” said Elizabeth.

“We are incredibly proud of the development and innovations we’ve been able to make so far on our journey.

We’ve gone way beyond prototypes and have been able to bring first-of-a-kind products to market at scale, which makes it even more remarkable.”

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INDUSTRY NEWS

NEW GREEN AGREEMENTS GUIDANCE HELP BUSINESS COLLABORATE AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE The Competition and Markets Authority has published new guidance to help businesses understand how they can collaborate on environmental sustainability goals without breaking the competition law.

The publication of the new Green Agreements Guidance follows extensive consultation and explains how competition law applies to environmental sustainability agreements between firms operating at the same level of the supply chain.

In 2022, a survey by the CMA found that businesses wanted more clarity on what is, and what is not, legal when working together towards environmental sustainability goals. The CMA publicly consulted on a draft of the guidance earlier this year.

As an example, the fashion sector agrees to set targets for gradually increasing the sustainable materials used in their clothing range. The guidance explains how this should be done so businesses can be confident their agreement complies with competition law.

Sarah Cardell, CMA chief executive, said: “We know tackling climate change and promoting environmental sustainability matters, and supporting businesses to do this is a priority for the CMA. “This guidance goes further than before – it gives firms greater certainty about when agreements that genuinely contribute to addressing climate change will be exempt from competition law while our opendoor policy means we can work with companies to give them tailored informal guidance on how they can work together to boost the green economy.”

THE WOMBLES TURN STREETWISE WITH ENVIRONMENTAL STREET FURNITURE The Wombles has teamed with Northern Ireland’s Environmental Street Furniture (ESF) to launch an innovative product range that includes outdoor benches, picnic tables, and more all made using recycled plastic and post-consumer waste.

The new collection even taps into the iconic IP’s reputation for recycling and upcycling via the Tobermory Smart Bin, a fully solar-powered bin equipped with an automatic compactor that reduces street litter collections by up to 90%.

All themed recycled products in the collection have been made using Plaswoodä, which is a Berry Global product and a leading name among recycled plastic profiles and applications, as well as recycled post-consumer waste.

“Getting the opportunity to launch The Wombles collection by Environmental Street Furniture to a global audience as the show celebrates its 50th anniversary, is a very proud moment for our company,” said ESF’s managing director, Alan Lowry. “We want to promote the message that the show is renowned for – encouraging recycling, reducing waste, upcycling items, and making good use of bad rubbish.”

REBORN’S MISSION TO TRANSFORM HOMEWARES INDUSTRY LANDS AT JOHN LEWIS John Lewis has welcomed to its shelves an exclusive new range of homewares set to transform the sector’s understanding of sustainability by turning waste into stylish items for the kitchen and reducing the use of virgin materials.

Co-developed by ReBorn in partnership with the UK waste management company, Biffa and research partners at Brunel University London, the collection is produced solely from waste materials – primarily wasted food packaging collected from British factories, and ‘reborn’ into stylish and practical homewares.

ReBorn was developed in response to the homewares industry’s growing problem with the use of virgin materials and reliance on international manufacturing and transportation. The range is produced in ReBorn’s Wiltshire factory.

The use of waste materials in the collection cuts carbon emissions by 79% compared to the conventional methods used in the industry. It is now exclusively available at John Lewis.

Brian Walmsley, founder of ReBorn, said: “Almost 70 million homeware items are thrown away in the UK every year, many of which will end up in landfill, and we know that this is a major issue that many retailers have been very keen to address.”

The whole range carries with it the seal of approval from Brunel University London’s chemical engineering department where the recycled plastic is quality checked for home use, durability, and recyclability.

KIDS INDUSTRIES, LEGO, AND NETFLIX LAY FOUNDATION OF LICENSING FUTURE The foundations for the future of licensing have been set with the unveiling of the Partnership Framework Maturity Index tool, a new platform with which the industry can benchmark its collective progress with sustainable development.

Developed by Products of Change and Kids Industries, the new tool has received the backing of some of the biggest names in the brand licensing industry, including the LEGO Group and Netflix. The tool has been launched to complement Products of Change’s recently announced Sustainability Framework.

The Maturity Index tool is a system in which licensing partners can log and update their progress with implementing change. This will then harness the data with which Products of Change and Kids Industries can utilise insight and collect a bird’s eye view of the sector’s progress with sustainability.

Not only will the tool give the industry a benchmarking system with which to work, but it will also provide insight into gaps in education and industry pain points to provide resources for.

“For this industry as a whole, this is a benchmarking tool on a scale we’ve not seen before, designed to show us the range of initiatives the industry is taking as well as many blind spots and interest areas we could be working more on,” said Jelena Stosic, director of strategy at Kids Industries.

“This marks a wonderfully collaborative effort and that’s important, simply because of the nature and magnitude of what we are working on. It absolutely isn’t about one person or one company ‘winning’ at sustainability. It is about shared knowledge and solutions and the only way to get there is through collaboration.”

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Committed to making sustainable products

officialLY LICENSED plastic-free, FSC-certified CARDS, calendars and diaries We’re committed to reducing our carbon footprint and making all of our products completely recyclable For more information, please contact us on: 01992 702 900 or email at: sales@danilo.com /danilocalendarsuk @CalendarsUK /danilocalendarsuk 73037_DANILO - ADVERT - POC - OCT 2023.indd 1

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FASHION & RETAIL NEWS

THG SEES NET ZERO TARGETS VALIDATED BY SCIENCE BASED TARGETS INITIATIVE

NEW LOOK SPIES PARTNER FOR IMPROVED VISIBILITY

THG has had its Net Zero targets validated by the Science Based Targets initiative, confirming the ambitions align with the latest climate science aimed at limiting global warming to 1.5-degrees above pre-industrial levels.

As part of the SBTi’s requirements, THG successfully completed and submitted its science-based targets at the end of 2022 when it committed to reducing absolute scope 1 and 2 greenhouse gas emissions by 42% by 2030 from its 2020 base year.

THG Plc also commits that 85% of its suppliers by spend covering purchased goods and services and upstream transportation and distribution will have science-based targets by 2027. The business also commits to reduce absolute scope 3 emissions by 90% by 2040.

Mark Jones, chief sustainability officer at THG, said: “THG recognises the importance of achieving rapid and substantial emission reductions to cut global emissions in half by 2030 and reach net-zero under the Paris climate agreement.

“Since the launch of our sustainability strategy in 2021, we have implemented near-term and long-term company-wide emissions reductions in line with the latest climate science.”

Through its climate strategy, THG x Planet Earth, the business has committed to invest and procure 100% renewable energy to power across global operations by 2030. In September this year, THG was awarded the EMEA Circular economy Transition of the Year Award for its initiative to turn unused Myprotein products into fish feed.

New Look has become the first major UK retailer to join forces with TrusTrace, a global leader in supply chain transparency as the brand takes significant new strides to address its environmental impact.

Last month, the fashion retailer published its Sustainability Report for 2023 and submitted Science Based Targets to the SBTi platform for validation. The brand has targeted reducing its scope 1 and 2 carbon emissions by 46% by 2031 and reach net zero across scopes 1,2, and 3 by 2040.

“Over the last 18 months, we have embraced our ‘Kind to Our Core’ strategy and made significant progress across our targets,” said Sue Fairley, head of sustainability at New Look. “We are pleased to have submitted our SBTs ahead of schedule, which shows our commitment to make significant improvements to our greenhouse gas emissions and net-zero target.”

New Look’s partnership with TrusTrace will allow it greater visibility across its supply chain through to Tier 4 suppliers to help it identify and mitigate responsible sourcing.

“At TrusTrace, we have a vision of the future where all value chains are traceable, circular, and fair, and we are excited to partner with New Look to support them in delivering on their sustainability strategy when it comes to responsible sourcing,” said Shameek Ghosh, TrusTrace ceo and co-founder.

TESCO AND HASBRO JOIN FORCES FOR RECYCLE TO READ TOY RECYCLING

DECATHLON ROLLS REFURB AND RESELL SCHEME OUT TO ALL UK STORES

Tesco and Hasbro joined forces this autumn with the leading not-for-profit environmental education company, Wastebusters, to trial a new in-store campaign – turning broken plastic toys into books and reading resources for UK schools.

A major development for the Recycle to Read campaign, the trial encourages families to recycle their toys via toy recycling bins placed in select Tesco stores. The scheme will be rolled out to further stores if it proves successful and popular with customers.

Backed by the global toy and games company, Hasbro, the initiative aims to drive a circular solution for unwanted or broken hard plastic toys.

Recycled plastic toys can be registered via the Wastebusters website to earn Planet Care Points for any schools attended by children from 2-11 years old in the Sussex area. Recycle to Read will then reward the 50 highest point-scoring schools in the area with book vouchers from a prize fund of £5,000 to spend on a wide range of discounted books by children’s publishing house, Harper Collins.

“We are always looking for new ways to remove, reduce, reuse, and recycle plastic in our business, so we’re delighted to be able to support the Recycle to Read campaign as a way to help our customers do more of this at home,” said Ally Rose, Tesco Category Director for Toys.

“As well as trialling a new way we can work together on hardto-recycle plastics, it also helps to give children greater access to reading.”

The sporting goods retailer, Decathlon has introduced its buyback service to all its UK stores, amplifying its lean into circular economy principles under its second-life offering.

Already available in stores across Europe, the buyback service offers customer store credit when they return products they no longer want or need to one of its shops. Decathlon will then refurbish and resell those pre-loved products.

The scheme will initially focus on Decathlon’s ownbrand bicycles before expanding to include all product categories such as fitness equipment, kayaks, and rackets next year.

The sports specialist aims to refurbish 15,000 bikes a year by 2025 and has 1,500 Decathlon staff already trained to deliver this new sustainable service.

“With the cost of living still continuing to impact our sport and fitness participation across the UK, at Decathlon we are determined to ensure that sport participation continues and is not affected by the rising cost of goods,” said Chris Allen, Decathlon UK sustainability leader.

“Buyback will allow customers to return their old and unwanted sporting equipment for store credit to use on refreshing their kit.”

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BE SMURFY, PROTECT OUR BLUE PLANET!

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LET’S SMURF ALL TOGETHER

FOR THE 17 SDG S

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CONFERENCE AGENDA

SUSTAINABILITY IN LICENSING CONFERENCE 2023 The Royal Geographical Society London, 1 Kensington Gore, South Kensington, London, SW7 2AR I 08.11.2023

The Sustainability in Licensing Conference is making its grand return to the Royal Geographical Society in London to not only elevate the conversation around industry sustainable development but to celebrate the incredibly achievements so far.

F

ollowing a spectacular debut in 2022, the Sustainability in Licensing Conference is making its return to the auditorium of the Royal Geographical Society in London to once again deliver a jampacked agenda of inspirational talks, educational insight, and actionable steps to help the $340bn global

brand and licensing industry – our wonderful industry - get well on its journey of sustainable development.

How do we top the dizzying heights of last year’s Conference?

Easy, we showcase the magnificent strides forwards this industry and its supporting players have all taken in the 12 (and a bit) months since, in all its splendour live on stage.

This year, we’re talking about the development of new circular systems in production, we’re talking about levels of supply chain transparency as you’ve never seen before, and we’ll be welcoming a whole new era for licensing entirely. It’s more than a little exciting, so lean in, take notes, and enjoy the show.

9.30AM – OPENING KEYNOTE WITH THE UNITED NATIONS The United Nations works closely with government and business to help them better adopt the Sustainable Development Goals into their practices and operations. But we’re not on track to meet the ambitions of the SDGs framework. Not without a leap of energy from the private sector.

Caroline Petit, deputy director of the UN’s Regional Information Centre will open SiLC 23 to highlight the importance of a mighty collaborative effort.

9.50AM – LEGISLATION NATION: HOW EUROPEAN LAWMAKING IS CHANGING BUSINESS AROUND THE WORLD

Caroline Petit, deputy director of UNRIC

10.40AM – BREAK

Europe has become a global leader in the development and implementation of legislative measures set to dramatically change the business landscape for good.

James George, POC Ambassador for Circularity; and Mike Swain, POC Ambassador for Packaging, talk us through the updates businesses simply cannot afford to miss.

James George, POC Ambassador for Circularity

Mike Swain, POC Ambassador for Packaging

Illana Adamson, BSc (Hons) Sustainable Development

10.20AM – GETTING THE MEASURE: THE IMPORTANCE OF BEING CARBON LITERATE Transparency across the global supply chain is a key pillar of incoming legislative updates, and crucial to being transparent is having a good knowledge of carbon reporting. The Carbon Literacy Trust’s Phil Korbel will join SiLC to uncover all angles of carbon reporting and how we can start calculating our impact.

Phil Korbel, co-founder and director of advocacy at the Carbon Literacy Trust

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CONFERENCE AGENDA

10.55AM - MAPPING A SUSTAINABILITY PATHWAY: HOW THE INDUSTRY IS ADAPTING TO NEW DEMANDS Leading names from the global brand and licensing industry, will share their insight and experience of navigating the sustainability conversation and putting those words into action.

David Boyne, managing director, Bravado Jeremy Orriss, director of licensing, Difuzed Sine Møller, sustainability transformation director, the LEGO Group Anna Halford, associate principal council, the Walt Disney Company Nicola Torode, head of operational compliance and sustainability, DK Books Nicolas Loufrani, ceo of The Smiley Company

Elizabeth Eaves, Lead Engineer- Quality & Compliance, Mattel EMEA

11.30AM – TIME TO TACKLE OUR BIGGEST IMPACTS: BUILDING A SCOPE 3 METHODOLOGY FOR THE BRAND AND LICENSING INDUSTRY The LEGO Group has played a pivotal role in getting the global Sine Møller, sustainability licensing industry transformation to where it is on director, the its sustainability LEGO Group journey today. Not shy of showcasing its evolution, LEGO’s Sine Møller will present the next phase of the LEGO journey with a cross-industry collaborative group now building a Scope 3 Methodology for brand owners.

11.45AM – KIT FOR PURPOSE: HOW IS THE SPORTS SIDE OF LICENSING DRIVING CHANGE AND INFLUENCING WITH THEIR BRANDS? Chaired by Simon Gresswell, POC’s Ambassador for Sports, we bring together a panel featuring Rishi Jain, director of impact at Liverpool FC; Scott Field, director of communications at Team GB, and Fanatics.

Simon Gresswell, POC’s Ambassador for Sports

Rishi Jain, director of impact at Liverpool FC

Scott Field, director of communications, Team GB

12.30PM – MAPPING YOUR IMPACT Products of Change presents a new era of licensing, developed in partnership with Kids Industries as well as Netflix and the LEGO Group: The Sustainability Maturity Index tool. This is a signalling gun for a whole new world within industry transparency and reporting.

1.30PM – LUNCH 2.15PM – TRANSPARENCY TOOLS: MAKING IMPACT ASSESSMENT SCALABLE Facing the need to meet new transparency demands, the licensing and consumer products sector is going to need to understand product impact assessment. Dayrize technology makes that scalable by combining leading tech with the latest sustainability science to help businesses showcase the environmental impact of their products.

David Kilbey, global partnerships lead at Dayrize

2.35PM – EXPLORING THE DIGITAL PRODUCT PASSPORT WITH FABACUS With the Digital Product Passport launching throughout Europe from January 2024 and a new CSRD requiring increased disclosure of data from companies, Fabacus presents its solution to the SiLC audience as Jonathan Baker connects impact data and product sales data to meet incoming demands from EU lawmakers.

Jonathan Baker, cco, Fabacus

Jelena Stosic, director of strategy, Kids Industries

Jakob Max Hamann, sustainability lead at the LEGO Group

Rikesh Desai, consumer products EMEA at Netflix

1.00PM – THE PRODUCTS OF CHANGE MEMBERS SDGS AWARDS The UN’s Caroline Petit will be on stage to present awards to four worthy winners across four specific categories developed to align with the UN’s 17 Sustainable Development Goals.

2.55PM – FASHION CONSCIOUS: NOBODY’S CHILD Nobody’s Child is a responsible brand on a mission to bring beautiful fashion to every woman, everywhere, without costing the earth. Passionate about lower impact fabrics, the team has spent the last eight years running away from materialism. Nobody’s perfect, but this brand is an example of how through partnerships and purpose, you can certainly make a difference.

Jody Plows, ceo, Nobody’s Child

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CONFERENCE AGENDA

SUSTAINABILITY IN LICENSING CONFERENCE 2023 CONTINUED...

3.20PM – SHELF LIFE: ASDA AND GEORGE AT ASDA TALK REDUCING IMPACT AND MAINTAINING COST

4.20PM – A CIRCULAR STORY: ONE COMPANY’S EVOLUTION TOWARDS A CIRCULAR MODEL

The George at Asda team talks us through the supermarket giant’s latest efforts to reduce its environmental impact, including the implementation of circular practices and how they are navigating the incoming legislative requirements.

One global manufacturer, one brand owner, a licensed manufacturer, and a circular technology partner, all with the support of a leading retailer – this is the story of a circular system in development.

Poetic Brands, Norlanka, Yellow Octopus, and Upcycled – all part of the PDS Group – will showcase a working example of how our industry can work together to build a circular system. Follow the journey, from manufacturer to retail, and discover what industry innovation can really look like.

Jade Snart, senior sustainability manager, Asda

Jennifer Ward, sustainability manager, George at Asda

Anne Bradford, director at Poetic Brands

3.50PM – BREAK 04.05PM – TOONED IN: CARTOON NETWORK TALKS ENGAGING AUDIENCES Monika Oomen, vp, brand, digital content strategy and communications for kids, EMEA showcases Cartoon Network’s latest initiative to bring kids and families into the climate conversation, and then convert that into action.

Monika Oomen, vp brand, digital content strategy and communication, Kids, EMEA

Barry Kane, managing director, Upcycle Labs

Jack Ostrowski, founder, Yellow Octopus

Benjamin Alexander, head of business UK and EU, The Norlanka Group Jade Snart, senior sustainability manager, Asda

4.50PM – WASTE NOT, WANT NOT: BUILDING A CIRCULAR ECONOMY FOR PLASTIC TOYS The not-for-profit environmental education platform, Wastebusters has partnered with Hasbro, the UK children’s magazine industry, and many more SME toy companies to build and test a recycling infrastructure for hard to recycle plastic toys while driving the message of reuse and re-sell. This groundbreaking initiative has been brought to life by the pioneering technical team at Tesco.

Join the team as they present a real-life example of how our industry can drive meaningful and positive change.

Katy Newnham, founder of Wastebusters Cheryl Thompson, head of technical at Tesco Stores Ltd Felicity Thompson, technical manager at Tesco Stores Ltd

5.10PM – A NEW ERA FOR LICENSING: NATURAL AND PLASTIC FREE Learn how LUSH, the mass market retailer and cosmetics company has scaled a business by staying true to its core values while partnering with the global brand and licensing industry to shine a light on sustainably-made products.

Melody Morton, LUSH concepts creative director

Matt Bradbrook, LUSH Cosmetics beauty chef

5.30PM – SUSTAINABILITY IN RETAIL: A PANEL SESSION Join Primark, Asda, and the LUSH team as they discuss how retail is navigating the sustainability space – from legislation to circular principles – for a regenerative and sustainable future.

Nick Lambert, circular product lead, Primark

Jade Snart, senior sustainability manager, Asda

Melody Morton, LUSH concepts creative director

Matt Bradbrook, LUSH Cosmetics beauty chef

6.00PM – AFTER CONFERENCE SOIREE Your chance to network and discuss the day’s learnings within the grounds of the Royal Geographical Society in Kensington, London. Take in the inspirational surroundings and a drink or two at our afterconference soiree.

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RETAIL FOCUS

The global retail scene is harbouring a growing affinity with the circular economy – from resale and refurbishment to recapturing and repurposing materials.

There’s plenty of innovation to be had when you retell the story of retail.

RETAIL’S GREAT

RETELLING I

BELOW: The thredUP system of reuse and resale is helping to boost a growing secondhand market for clothing in the US.

n the spring of 2021, The Hut Group (THG) acquired the plastics recycling specialist Indigo Environmental in a move to bring its own plastics recycling operations in-house.

The acquisition took place in the middle of a spate of purchases that has seen THG buy-up suppliers within its supply chain at a rate of knots.

Under the Group’s THG x Planet Earth sustainability strategy, commitments have since been made to reach ‘zero waste to landfill’ by 2030, 100% of its own-brand packaging to be recyclable by 2025 and 70% of third-party brands by 2030, to recycle more plastic than it uses by

ABOVE: Primark Cares has been working with the principles of the Ellen MacArthur Foundation to develop its first circular collection.

2030, and to have all suppliers committed to ethical sourcing standards by 2025.

In September this year, THG was even handed the EMEA Circular Economy Transition of the Year Award for an initiative to turn its unused Myprotein into fish feed.

Speaking earlier this year with Retail Week, THG’s chief executive Matthew Moulding explained how the Group had been buying up used PPE from hospitals and spoiled notes materials from the Bank of England to turn them into plastic pellets for reuse in society.

“Aside from the environmental impacts, this is also becoming an increasing revenue stream for us,” he said.

Increasingly, the UK retail scene is finding that sustainability initiatives need not come with the hefty price tag they are often misrepresented as carrying. In fact, sustainability initiatives can more than pay for themselves. In the case of The Hut Group, they can even be profitable, and there’s a whole demographic of shoppers driving that forward.

It’s with growing frequency that we hear the buying power held by Gen Z is increasing. In the United States, it reached more than $500 billion in recent years, while reports tell us that a significant majority of young adults are now willing to pay more for sustainable products. Meanwhile, the global resale market alone is expected to grow to $350bn in sales by 2027, up from $177 billion in 2022 according to thredUP. In fact, in its 2023

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RETAIL FOCUS Holiday Report, the online clothing resale platform finds that more than one in three shoppers plan to shop secondhand this holiday season for reasons of value for money during economic hardship, uniqueness, and sustainability.

Resonating with licensing audiences, thredUP also recently partnered with the pop culture merchandise specialist, Hot Topic to launch Hot Topic Replay, a resale programme allowing customers to shop secondhand products and resell their items for Hot Topic Credit.

“Hot Topic is a brand that has maintained cultural relevance across decades and their finger is on the pulse when it comes to younger shoppers who value self-expression and individuality,” said James Reinhart, ceo of thredUP. “We’re thrilled to enable Hot Topic Replay and believe that entering resale will help Hot Topic build brand affinity among customers who are on the hunt for that unique band tee or collectable item, while also serving as a new growth channel for the business.”

Despite its growth, resale and rental still remain but a slice of sustainability at retail. A November 2022 NielsenIQ study reminds us that while the majority of consumers do take sustainability into account when purchasing, it’s only between 3% and 6% that actually view it as their top driver of choice. This, however, won’t stop legislation making demands of the manufacturing and retail landscape and it becomes increasingly important that retailers do find the means of enabling shoppers to minimise their carbon footprint without increasing costs where there remains an unwillingness to pay a premium.

In April this year, Primark launched its first product range designed and made ‘to be re-loved and recycled’ using the retailer’s new Circular Product Standard – a standard based on principles established by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation.

A first for the fashion retail giant, the collection is made up from at least 95% cotton from the Primark Sustainable Cotton Programme with increased durability and recyclability built in. At the end of each garment’s life, products can be dropped off at a local textile donation point, currently available in Primark stores in selected markets.

The collection, according to Nicholas Lambert, circular product lead at Primark, “brings together years of work to create a new framework, with the ambition of enabling products teams at Primark and its suppliers to create more circular products designed with the end in mind.”

“This has led to the creation of our first circular collection of affordable wardrobe staples that customers can re-wear, repair, and ultimately recycle,” said Nicholas.

“This collection was created by a small group of our designers, buyers, and suppliers piloting our new Circular Product Standard and,

while we know this is just one small step in our commitment to become a more circular business, we’re excited to now roll these new design principles across our business and with more suppliers, allowing us to scale it up.”

The fact that the initiative can now claim brand ambassador, Rita Ora to its name is just a feather in the cap for taking ideas of better circularity to the public.

Hot Topic is a brand that has maintained cultural relevance across decades and their finger is on the pulse when it comes to younger shoppers who value self-expression and individuality.

James Reinhart, ceo of thredUP In truth, we’ve seen swathes of retailers make public their commitments to sustainability in recent years.

Starting with Tesco earlier this year, a growing number of the majors are aligning themselves with the Science Based Targets initiative with ambitions to reduce their scope 1,2, and 3 greenhouse gas emissions to net zero by between 2030 and 2040. The Hut Group itself is among one of the latest to have its net zero targets validated by the SBTi, while the high street fashion and accessories brand, New Look is awaiting the nod for its own.

The ability to drive profitability via sustainability will remain at the heart of the retail approach, and innovating new developments in the circular economy will continue to sit atop of that – whether that’s found in in-house plastic recycling operations or simply feeding fish.

Left: Rita Ora has become the face of a new collection from Primark which includes the development a new circular hoodie.

BELOW: thredUP’s redistribution centre filled with secondhand items.

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AMBASSADOR OPINION

At the Sustainability in Licensing Conference this year, POC’s Ambassadors, James George and Mike Swain got to task unpicking the details around incoming legislation and the systems thinking we’re going to need to address our relationship with waste.

AMBASSADOR OPINION: LEGISLATION

S

long way to go before we have a feasible circular materials economy. A recent report from the United Nations exploring Waste Electrical and Electronic Equipment recycling, in which researchers pointed out that we are producing more waste from electronic toys than we are disposable vapes, highlights

LEFT: James George is POC’s Ambassador for the Circular Economy and Advisor on sustainable strategies.

ustainability, climate always a simple solution... that is change, reducing always wrong! plastic, biodiversity, A complex problem requires the circular economy; a complex answer. So, embrace the landscape of the difficulty. It’s going to get doing the right thing, even the much more difficult before it right commercial thing (which gets easier.

Despite the strides we are taking shouldn’t be considered in Well before you get too forward, we still have a long way isolation) remains incredibly disheartened and throw in the to go before we have a feasible difficult to navigate. While the towel, remember there are volume on business as a force some constants, or at least circular materials economy. for good has increased way some guidelines in the form past 11 in the last few years, the of international and national just how far we have to go on clarity of “what is the right thing policy. Over the last few years Extended User Responsibility to do?” has only become more our centres of governmental opaque, not less. control (specifically the European (EPR) as an example to address all the waste we produce.

We know we all need to Commission – including when It’s a peculiar comparison to change, but where do we start? the UK was still driving that draw, but one that does highlight That is the question every conversation) have been taking the misconceptions we have business owner, organisation, the brave steps to ‘level the around disposability. Whether citizen, and individual should playing field‘, create consistency you’re discarding an electrical toy have asked themselves. “I am across borders, and forcing the or a disposable vape, however, not going to solve climate slow movers to change. it’s time to reconsider our change alone, but what is my This work has informed, relationship with the materials we role, my sphere of influence?” If banned, changed, and view to be… well, immaterial. you haven’t already asked this, incentivised behaviour changes We must all play our part in you are already way behind. for all of us. In marketing, not only highlighting these issues And of course, the answer procurement, finance, supply but also working hard on the is fraught with challenge. chain, sales, production, solutions. Data is of course key How do we ensure material is operations, monitoring and and will allow us to segment actually recycled just because reporting, and HR. No area has the issues and make informed it’s recyclable? What does been spared. But again, how decisions on next steps. However our customer think about do you navigate the red tape difficult and complex it might the difference? Have we even and the new regulation to make seem. We also need action now! asked them? Who pays for the sure you don’t fear the stick, but James George is Products of change? None of these have instead get all the carrots?

Change’s Ambassador for the easy answers, they just don’t, Despite the strides we are Circular Economy and Advisor on but that doesn’t mean we taking forward, we still have a economic sustainability and shouldn’t answer them. In circularity. He has spent fact, the feeling of difficulty a career working with the on this topic should be We know we all need to change, likes of the Ellen MacArthur encouraging, it means but where do we start? That is the Foundation and Pyxera you’re getting closer to the question every business owner, Global before setting out real issues. This is the point organisation, citizen, and individual on consultancy for the we need to lean in, not step sustainable transformation should have asked themselves. back. Afterall, for every of the consumer industries. complex problem, there is

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DIGITAL PRODUCT PASSPORT

THE REAL PRICE OF

PRODUCT ABOVE: The Dayrize team working to drive product and supply chain transparency.

RIGHT: David Kilbey, global partnerships lead at Dayrize

RIGHT: Pure Table Top is a B Corp certified business with sustainability at the top of their agenda.

RIGHT: Dayrize processes supply chain data to provide clients with a final product score.

P

ure Table Top is a bit of a poster child for sustainability in the housewares sector. A proud B Corp that today finds its products in millions of homes around the world, it’s a business that wants to use its platform to advocate for positive change.

The most exciting part of all this is just how Pure Table Top is quantifying its sustainability. The team has recently partnered with Dayrize, a company dedicated to helping others understand the environmental and social impact of the products they make and sell.

Through Dayrize, it’s Pure Table Top’s plan to assess and provide the sustainable credentials of each and every product it makes.

“It’s always been one of our biggest sustainable goals, and Dayrize’s technology allows us to achieve that,” Lucie Taff, head of brands and marketing at Pure Table Top, tells Products of Change.

“We send Dayrize data from our designers, suppliers, and logistics providers on the materials, packaging, and processes used to create and deliver our products.

Their technology then compares this data to the market and industry standards and gives a holistic score from one to 100 as well as scoring against five sustainability subcategories.

“The higher the score, the more sustainable the product is deemed to be.”

Dayrize’s fully automated software means it can assess large ranges of products and provide accurate results even where information is fragmented. The team then helps clients turn this insight into action by recommending the steps to reduce the impact of their products.

“Measuring product impact is about accurately assessing the true environmental and social ‘cost’ to create a product,” says David Kilbey, global partnerships lead at Dayrize.

“When measuring it accurately you need to account for the full impact of the product: How much carbon was produced? How much water was used? What was the biodiversity loss? Were people treated fairly in the supply chain of the product?

“Up until now, this has been out of reach for companies big and small because of the complexity of understanding impact through the supply chain, but now technology can provide accurate assessments even with limited data.”

The timing is perfect.

Incoming regulations will mean

Pressure is mounting on brand owners and their supply chains to meet the demands of customers and retailers eager to know the realworld impact of the products they purchase.

But it’s nothing to fear, says Dayrize, it could be your best chance for the competitive edge. that from 2024 Digital Product Passports will be introduced to the consumer products industries, starting with the battery market before moving to textiles. In a matter of time, it will land across all consumer product areas, making it a topic that simply needs to be on the radar of all manufacturers and brand owners.

“The good news is, there are software solutions that can help companies navigate the regulatory requirements,” continues David.

“And although this change will create some extra work for companies, those that embrace the changes can turn them into a competitive advantage.

“Buyers and customers are not looking for brand owners and manufacturers to create perfect products. What they are looking for are companies that are addressing the impact through their supply chain. Companies that don’t get started now risk falling foul of regulators, but more importantly, they risk being out positioned by their competitors who embrace the journey and use it as a competitive advantage.”

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he aim of the game is to drive more sustainable and circular products at retail and into the hands of the consumer.

Regulations want customers to be able to make a purchase fully aware of the environmental impact of that product through every stage of its journey, from source all the way to the shelf. It’s this level of empowerment that the Digital Product Passport is aiming for.

It’s already started rolling out in some categories in some territories and it means brands will soon have to compile and share some pretty comprehensive product data to comply. And while on the surface it looks like a lot of work, there are opportunities to be seized.

“Digital Product Passports give brands and retailers a chance to embrace their sustainability efforts and will become more significant for the licensing and retail ecosystem in the years to come,” says Jonathan Baker, cco at Fabacus, a leading data service provider for the licensing industry.

“They will undoubtedly have a direct impact on organisations, particularly the larger corporates, their data capture and sharing processes, as well as supply base.”

This summer, Fabacus paired with the ethical fashion brand, Nobody’s Child to launch its first fully-fledged DPP across the brand’s Fearne Cotton Happy Place clothing collection, making it not only the first out of the gate but first for the licensing sector and the first to land backing from retail via M&S – a stakeholder in the Nobody’s Child value chain - where the brand sells.

“Collaboratively, we worked together through the design and development stages to ensure full disclosure of information regarding the product, its supply chain journey, and carbon footprint,” says Jody Plows, ceo of Nobody’s Child.

‘As a brand, we are hopeful this development is just the start for complete transparency across the fashion industry.”

That won’t be without its challenges, of course. The mainstream licensing industry, it is no secret, has historically

DIGITAL PRODUCT PASSPORT

PASSPORT TO THE

FUTURE

Fabacus and Nobody’s Child share more than a board of directors in common. The pair have just launched the first-to-market Digital Product Passport, a ticket to the future of transparency in the brand and licensing product space and beyond. wrestled with a low level of data sharing and overall supply chain visibility and gathering data from multiple sources will be a challenge. This is where Fabacus plans for its Xelacore platform to come in and change things up, more than a little.

“It allows multiple partners to publish their data into one repository, providing a centralised view of all the necessary data required for a DPP,” says Fabacus’ Jonathan. “The Fabacus DPP solution is built to accommodate the nuances of licensing by incorporating brand licensors into the DPP framework by authenticating legitimate licensed products thus giving visibility to

available now to their benefit.

“They offer a tangible way for brands, even those not traditionally aligned with sustainability, to enter and enhance the conversation around environmental impact,” says Jody.

“The transparency they offer not only educates consumers bit positions the brand as more responsible and aware of sustainability issues, appealing to the growing segment of eco-conscious consumers.

“Moreover, DPPS can catalyse a competitive drive among brands, pushing them to showcase their sustainability efforts and improve their practices to meet consumer expectations an industry standards.”

This is certainly why Nobody’s Child will continue to lead the conversation from the front, and that includes rolling out a DPP for all its products by the end of 2024. It’s a real snapshot of the future.

LEFT: Jonathan Baker, chief commercial officer at Fabacus.

LEFT: Jody Plows is the ceo of Nobody’s Child, an ethical fashion brand and first to launch a DPP.

BELOW: The DPP has been rolled out across Fearne Cotton’s Happy Place range from Nobody’s Child.

their product environmental footprint across their thirdparty licensing business.”

It does sound like a lot of work. But it’s only a matter of time before it will become mandatory practice.

In the meantime, brands have a real opportunity to use the DPP platforms

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JOIN OUR COMMUNITY! COME AND SEE US AT SUSTAINABILITY IN LICENSING CONFERENCE.

EMAIL US AT HELLO@WOMBLESOPERATIONS.COM FOLLOW US ON SOCIALS @WOMBLESOFFICIAL

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SYSTEM OF SUSTAINABLE PRODUCTION

WEAR AND

BACK AGAIN

ABOVE: Yellow Octopus lorries transport unsold and deadstock clothing items to be reused and resold across markets.

RIGHT: Upcycle Labs uses waste textiles to create all manner of gifts and housewares.

RIGHT: A product rennaissance, Michelangelo’s David, made from textile waste.

The PDS Group is orchestrating a closed loop system of sustainable production that begins in factories in Sri Lanka and ends with ornaments made from textile waste. Products of Change takes us on this unexpected journey.

W

hen Anne Bradford, commercial director of Poetic Brands, first met with Barry Kane, md of Upcycle Labs, neither could ever have guessed they would bond over an ornamental elephant. But while it looked like the one that was, at the time, sourced from China and currently retailing in Asda, this was an elephant of singular most extraordinary beginnings.

Because it begun… at the end.

This was an ornament produced under the modus operandi of Upcycle Labs. A firm that is and does exactly what it says on the tin. Unlike the elephant statues found on those Asda shelves at the time, this was produced here in the UK. It was also completely made from textile waste.

And it was

at this realisation that Anne knew there was a story to tell.

Upcycle Labs is a pioneering outfit that takes waste materials – namely waste textiles, deadstock, unsold, and returned clothing no longer in any condition to be resold – and upcycles it into new products. These can be any and all manner of gifts and

housewares products – all made on site at the company’s Nottingham HQ – and all limited only by the imagination.

For Anne, it was the ornamental elephant that sparked hers. Because

Upcycle Labs was also part of a pioneering new chain, fostered

by PDS Group (the parent company of Poetic) that started at the clothing manufacturing sites in Sri Lanka, under the Norlanka name. It’s here where Poetic Brands’ own babywear collections are produced before they move through Poetic and onto the rails at George at Asda.

Items that are unsold by the end of their run are recaptured by the clothing reuse and resale specialist, Yellow Octopus – another PDS Group entity – which brings items that cannot be shifted elsewhere into the upcycling processes at Upcycle Labs. It’s a symphonic story of sustainability and savvy systems change that needs to be told right from the beginning.

THE RIGHT START “Norlanka is the best at what it does, both when it comes to product and its focus on sustainability,” says Anne.

“For us, designing out waste starts right at the beginning

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SYSTEM OF SUSTAINABLE PRODUCTION All of this is then processed in the Yellow Octopus and Upcycle Labs’ first Circular Fashion Hub in Nottingham – so called because the two operate no more than a minute’s walk from each other in the same industrial estate.

“Whatever is fit for reuse will be sold as Pre-Loved fashion by Yellow Octopus and what is not reusable will be turned into new products

when we look at fabric lays, print directions, and usage.

Sometimes, simple things like scrunchies or hair accessories can be made from the offcuts of fabrics that can’t be utilised on a garment.

“We look closely at design elements – even something like pockets on a baby dungaree.

Do they need two? Are labels needed, given that so many goods are sold online and do not need all the additional packaging? There are many little things that can be changed to have an impact on the bigger picture, and they are all at the design and manufacturing level.”

the people that make our product and their wellbeing. They should always come first,” says Anne. “For any business, it is critical that we analyse and address the end-toend supply chain and play our part in ensuring that we are doing everything we can to improve processes and eradicate ways of working that are out of date.”

AWAY FROM LANDFILL Yellow Octopus is a European leader in fashion reuse and prolonging the lifecycle of apparel and footwear. It’s also been a There are so many little things that long-term can be changed to have an impact on working the bigger picture and they are all at partner with the design and manufacturing level.

Asda for Anne Bradford, commercial the last 13 director of Poetic Brands years, taking care for the retail giant’s Anne’s team is always looking end-of-life products to at ways to improve things. From reduce its volume to landfill. designing smarter to keeping In this tale, it’s Yellow samples to a minimum. Even Octopus’ job to recapture visiting factories, she’s not any products and materials shy of offering support to the that didn’t sell through. operations already “making huge “Yellow Octopus has fullysteps in their ways of working.” designed and is operating “We happily share with them the George Take Back what we are doing within programme, which is one PDS and if there is anything of the most popular take further we can do to help and back schemes in the UK,” support them,” says Anne. explains Jack Ostrowski, It was at the start of the year founder of the operation, that Products of Change got to a pioneer in making reuse witness this side to the business and resale an easy and first hand on a tour of PDS accessible alternative. “Asda Group’s Norlanka factories in Sri customers can not only Lanka. The trip proved to be an drop off their unwanted eye-opening experience of the fashion to local stores but crucial industry that companies can also hand their packed like PDS and brands like Poetic old clothes to Asda couriers bring to local communities. when they have groceries “We are powered by people delivered without leaving the and we must not lose sight of comfort of their homes.”

LEFT: Yellow Octopus and Upcycle Labs find their respective UK HQ’s a minute’s walk from each other.

LEFT: Yellow Octopus redistributes collected clothing across its Polish market.

by Upcycle Labs,” says Jack.

It’s a system that has, to date, diverted “tonnes of clothes” from UK landfills, and one that has started pioneering a new means of closing up the loop.

At Upcycle Labs, a grinding machine makes prolonged discussion a relatively rare occurrence. Its noise reverberates around the factory, its teeth gnashing at clothing being fed onto its tongue-like conveyor belt. At the other end, it deposits a fine grind. This is the stuff a new future is being built upon.

Already, Upcycle Labs has brought Children in Need’s Pudsey Bear to life with textile waste and right now, the business is going through final checks to be signed up as an official supplier to one of retail’s sustainable champions: Asda. Wear and back again.

It’s a beautiful system, really.

BELOW: Step-bystep, materials are fed to the grinder and turned into new products.

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CARBON LITERACY PROJECT INTERVIEW

GETTING THE

MEASURE

Customers are asking for it and governments are going to start demanding it – remember the term Carbon Literacy because it’s going to fast become a fundamental building block for any successful business within the next decade.

But all is really not as overwhelming as it may at first appear.

ABOVE: Above: Phil Korbel (pictured left) regularly takes to the road to deliver carbon education.

FAR RIGHT: A day’s worth of training leaves clients with a Carbon Literacy framework to implement across their business.

RIGHT: Barrow & Ball are one of the National Trust’s longstanding partners.

T

he real work isn’t the preaching to the choir, it’s in teaching those you’d never have expected to find at the party. In Phil Korbel’s case, that party is at the house of science and data, and those lessons are in carbon literacy.

Sure, as co-founder and director of advocacy at The Carbon Literacy Project, Phil can routinely expect to be talking with the likes of Lush Cosmetics or the Antarctic research vessel, The Sir David Attenborough – and regularly he does. But these are the kind of nerds you would find at the front of the class.

Phil wants to reach the kids at the back.

“Success rests on reaching the companies outside of the ‘sustainability bubble’,” says Phil.

“That’s how we’re going to make a difference, by engaging the less usual suspects in this conversation, providing them the tools to go on and teach their people about carbon.”

That’s what the Carbon Literacy Project does. And it does it very well. What started as a movement of like-mindedness between employers, educators, and activists 11 years ago came to be the Carbon Literacy Project approach to educate businesses on the ins and outs of carbon – from measuring emissions to sequestering and reducing - before handing over a framework with which to teach the wider team.

In their own way and in a manner that works for their business.

Today, the Carbon Literacy Project has 60 people on the payroll and has just certified

its seventy-second-thousandth person as ‘Carbon Literate.’

Fundamental to the success of the methodology is that these teachings make the subject relevant – underscoring that the effects of climate change are happening to people, now.

“Our starting point is that far too much climate action is perceived as being done to people, possibly it’s even an imposition,” says Phil.

“We’re not going to get where science demands us unless it’s done with people. Yes, we’re going to need our technical fixes, but unless people feel engaged and a part of it, we’re not going to get the scale of action we need.

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CARBON LITERACY PROJECT INTERVIEW “We love doing training, but we can’t train everyone. We have to provide the tools to enable others to train.”

A proud feather in the cap for Phil is the work he and the team have recently completed with Auto Trader. He’s also been called in to deliver training for Nissan UK, the UK’s largest car manufacturer.

These are the characters Phil is keen to engage – those that hold a lot of sway in the economic system that are not yet actively engaged in the conversation.

It’s in the pursuit of such a client that The Carbon Literacy Project has just launched a shareable Carbon Literacy training kit for the sports sector, modelled on a customised version of the course made for the Commonwealth Games.

“It’s flying out the door,” beams Phil. “Which is really encouraging, because the sports sector has a lot of work to do.”

The training works like this: Phil and the team provide the initial days’ worth of Carbon Literacy training, starting with the ‘why’ (the need for change) and finishing with the ‘how’ (to implement changes). An adaptable Framework is then given to the company to apply to their specific needs, business model, and company culture allowing them to train up their people in ways that work best for them.

“We’re a not-for-profit that introduces the concept to people,” says Phil. “We enable people to design courses suitable to them that we can then certify – marking them up as Carbon Literate courses.”

It’s then down to those organisations to implement and sustain those actions afterwards.

So, in the case of an accredited course on ‘sustainable licensing’, it’d be about “applying your nowse – as a branding or licensing person – to what you have learned.”

“It’s very much about breaking-down the niches that the ‘green people’ have created for themselves and then mainstreaming it,” he continues.

The Carbon Literacy Project has seen no let up in demand for their toolkits. Turnover in the last financial year rocketed 250% - a whopping increase that Phil proudly notes is “regardless of government, actually.” It’s a salient point to make. The recent flip-flopping of UK government

LEFT: The Carbon Literacy Project was named a Top 10 Northern Gamechanger in October this year.

and its approach to Net Zero ambitions – nay, promises – it made in the years prior isn’t, it turns out, as representative of the social zeitgeist as perhaps Number 10 would have many of us believe. At least, that’s the estimation of a company working day-in day-out with businesses recognising the very real need to transition.

“There are people trying somehow to equate securing a safer future for our children with culture wars. It’s objectively wrong and ethically wrong,” Phil says.

“But I try to veer conversation away from the ‘doom’ because if you’re ‘doomy’ you might as well be hand-in-glove with the people who deny it’s happening – because it’s giving up.

“We have the solutions, they just need to be employed at speed and scale and people need waking up to it.”

So, what about sustainability in licensing? Like many of the consumer industries that have waste and disposability built into the business model, the answer, Phil suggests, is perhaps both practical and philosophical.

The answer is in the circular economy.

“We have to get to a stage where durability and reuse and repurposing of materials starts to register, in a meaningful way, with consumers,” he explains.

“It applies to any ‘goods’ industry. Don’t sell a washing

machine that will break down in seven years, lease one that will work for 20 years. As a manufacturer, you’re still going to be ‘in clover’ here. – it’s just a different business model.

“The idea of durability and speaking to what really makes people happy is going to be a fundamental challenge to the way the economy works.

Yes, of course a brand sells… but what about the product itself?

Is it something that prolongs happiness, sustains the good things and stays with you? Rather than just produce that momentary kick or rush of adrenaline?

“Look, our consumption of natural resources is outstripping those resources. We have infinite desires on a finite planet and our economy is totally bound up in that equation. We need to rewrite that formula because that will lead us to a better way of life.”

Selling the circular economy to the licensing industry is going to be an interesting endeavour but the potential of the resources and revenue that’s there to be unlocked is simply too vast not to try. So, welcome to the party… can we tell you about carbon?

LEFT: The Carbon Literacy Project presents awards to high performing clients and individuals.

BELOW: Below: Individuals from Auto Trader and Manchester Metropolitan University receive awards for exemplary action in Carbon Literacy.

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FOCUS ON: LUSH

Lush Cosmetics is an ecosystem unto itself. A company built on purpose with a devotion to the planet and people, it’s a business on a mission to encourage industrial revolution through its product. It also happens to be everything the licensing industry loves. Products of Change takes a tour of the business.

ABOVE: There’s something familiar about this member of the team, and it’s likely because there are stickers of his face plastered over trays of product.

RIGHT: Repairs and Maintenance is where everything Lush uses is brought to be maintained or fixed-up.

A

A FRESH-FACED

t its headquarters in the seaside town of Poole, we find one of the Lush kitchen team scooping jars of organic peanut butter - an exclusive supply from an independent brand with which Lush shares a deep affinity - into a large mixing bowl. There’s something familiar about this member of the team, and it’s likely because there are stickers of his face plastered over trays of product in the room adjacent.

Fresh food is found everywhere, spilling over from the walk-in fridge and into bowls and crates around the kitchen area. Bulbs of garlic and jars of herbs and spices are racked up on a centre display unit while a commercial mixer whirrs away on a fresh batch of produce in the corner. It’s

FUTURE

a kitchen any restaurateur would be proud of and without question the reason everything in a Lush shop looks and smells so… damned delicious.

This is a business you just want to eat up and it’s got everything that licensing loves.

Its reputation for freshness means it has to be quick to market, while its captured audience share a pop-culture like-mindedness that sits at the heart of an operation proven scalable at an international level. Already, the team has worked with some of the biggest names in character and entertainment licensing,

including Universal for the Super Mario Bros. movie, Paramount for the SpongeBob SquarePants plastic-free collection, and Mattel for a range devoted to the iconic Barbie.

The best part is it’s achieved all this without compromising an inch on its integrity. Lush is a business rooted in purpose, devoted to the planet, and nurturing of its people.

It could just also be the blueprint for a consumer products industry of tomorrow.

“Lush has always been passionate not just about sustainability, but the regeneration of

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FOCUS ON: LUSH our planet,” Melody Morton, concepts creative director at Lush, tells Products of Change. “We have worked with local farmers and ingredient producers for a long time on a mission to re-wild and regenerate communities and environments.

“The buying team is one of the most dedicated teams in the business, exploring new opportunities and is always pushing the business to be the best it can be in terms of buying and regenerative practices.”

Its output is just as conscientious. Lush prides itself on being 66% naked, and by this it means ‘packaging free’. All the company’s bath bombs, soap, bubble bars, shampoo bars, and a select number of its skincare and haircare products arrive and retail in this state of utter nakedness. It was for this very approach that the company’s first foray into licensing – its partnership with Paramount Consumer Products and the SpongeBob SquarePants Operation Sea Change initiative – was so widely celebrated.

“The only packaged product in that range was a new concept for Lush and was a stackable bathing/soap/bubble bar Krabby Bathy,” explains Melody. “But even this product came in a fully-recyclable and recycled cardboard box.”

The collection was sold in accordance with Lush’s ethos of fresh cosmetics that “don’t sit around on shelf for months on end”. Special ranges sell for short periods and in limited quantities. It’s what drives the hype and sees

product sell through.

The SpongeBob SquarePants collection was indeed a sellout success.

“We know that new products sold for a limited time resonate with our audience,” explains Melody. “We are all about fresh products. We don’t want products sitting around degrading on a shelf for a long time, so these fast-paced collaborations are exciting and offer something fresh for our fans.”

At the Poole headquarters, everything is considered.

An electric bus ferries staff members between units.

There’s the main office, the kitchen, the dairy unit, ‘bubbles’ (where soaps and bubble baths are made – all by hand), and a few notable others.

Each of them practises what Lush preaches – using only ethically sourced ingredients.

But the real magic takes place within the Green Hub – this is where Lush’s enviable ecosystem comes full circle.

“Lush is passionate about the plastic we do use in our packaging and makes sure it is

treated as treasure,” says Melody. “We encourage all our customers to bring back their old Lush pots for 50 pence credit for more Lush products. We then break down this plastic and turn it back into our own packaging.

“We are also making sure we choose the

ABOVE: Part of best recycled materials for our Lush’s Green Hub stores and offices, re-using as is a staff-only much as we can, where we can. store through Our Green Hub manages waste which products from around the business, that don’t make it making sure we can become to retail are sold. as circular as we can and gifting any waste product so it doesn’t end up in landfill.”

The Green Hub’s ‘shopfront’ is an area done up as if walking into a Lush store.

However, it’s filled with old or ‘less-than-perfect’ items that can’t be sent to retail, priced up at a heavy discount. It’s for staff only, of course, but it’s an outlet for products that in any other scenario would be headed for landfill. This ‘shop front’ also serves as a venue for local community and charity groups and the windows LEFT: The Lush are currently Kitchen uses only dressed with the fresh and organic artwork of a local ingredients that children’s art club. would make any restrauteur green Behind the with envy. curtains things get really interesting.

The unit is divided into areas, each with their specific role to play in the circular system the cosmetics specialist has created. Repairs and Maintenance is where everything Lush uses is brought to be maintained or fixed-up; Woodshop and Lush Events is a zone in which every POS material used by the business is kept for re-use and repurposing; Donations sorts LEFT: Lush’s plastic the small number of items that moulding operation don’t sell through for local uses 100% charities and organisations; recycled plastics Moulds is where recycled plastic that are recycled is used time and again to create time and again.

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DRIVING POSITIVE CHANGE ACROSS Brand LICENSING, Retail and Product

DELIVERED BY

BOOK YOUR SILC23 TICKETS TODAY sustainabilityinlicensing.com

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FOCUS ON: LUSH product moulds; and ‘Taking Care of Plastic’ is where Lush is fast pioneering plastic-sorting systems that stretch beyond its own packaging return scheme and into a potential plastic-collection system for all businesses in the local area.

The team are, of course, fully aware of the additional value chain that kind of operation can unlock should it all come together, with tantalising tax incentives and remuneration for collected and recycled plastic.

But securing certification as a ‘waste management’ business is a lengthy and involved process – but one that is required to pursue this line of operation.

So, in the meantime, Lush will continue to nudge wider the parameters within which its business operates today.

Has it found a new means of doing that through licensing?

Its string of early successes would certainly suggest so.

Lush is pioneering a new category for licensing. Having invented the bath bomb some 30 years ago, the business today finds itself at the interstitial between ‘singleuse’ and ‘experiential’ – while all of it is trend-led, fastpaced, and free from plastic waste. There’s a reason the Lush team were to be found walking the aisles of Brand Licensing Europe this year, and reason more why it’s become a licensing partner found to be in high demand.

There’s no denying that incoming legislative changes – new regulations set by the EU and its overarching Green Deal – will see some seismic shifts across the business landscape of today. Extended Producer Responsibility laws, Corporate Sustainability

Reporting Directives, the EU’s Plastic Treaty, and Digital Product Passports – all are being introduced in the coming year or so to corral businesses towards more sustainable practices and help the EU achieve its ambition of becoming Net Zero by 2050.

At the same time, customers are demanding better practices from the brands they buy into. A company that can successfully adopt the licensing business mentality while providing a product that holds itself accountable for its environmental impact at every juncture makes for a very attractive business partner.

“We want to work with like-minded franchises that

want progression and change for the cosmetics industry,” says Melody. “We feel we can educate and learn together, exploring new and exciting ways to communicate a message with fun, regenerative products. We’ve found that most partners are really excited about the opportunity of having less plastic packaging in ranges and exploring new innovation for cosmetics.

“We want to inspire more change throughout other industries and we believe we can do this through innovation and trending products that are exciting and relevant. We know that by setting good standards and exploring new opportunities, we can create new conceptual ethical cosmetics that will be benefitled and always be inclusive.”

And that’s a narrative well-worth remembering on your next visit to a Lush store. Profit and purpose can coexist, and do you know what – it can make one hell of a tasty-looking soap, too.

ABOVE: Ingredients fill a display unit in the centre of Lush’s kitchen and fill a fridge out of shot.

LEFT: End of line products find new homes through the Lush Green Hub shop front.

FAR LEFT: A selection of Lush product on display, including the Krabby Bathy SpongeBob SquarePants range.

LEFT: A bird’s eye view of the Lush Bath Department.

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WE SIMPLIFY SUSTAINABILITY A membership community to support and educate your transition to a sustainable and profitable future.

We work with: • Brand Owners • Licensed Manufacturers • Retailers To help you build: • For the environment • For society • For the future With education and support with: • Governance • Legislation • Guidelines Products of Change Membership Products of Change Media Products of Change Events Products of Change Consultancy

Driving business towards a regenerative future

POC membership brings you: Online educational modules Online digital hub to connect with members Sustainable research and insights Live webinars Topic specific working groups Discount to in-person workshops Discount to our annual conference (SILC) A safe community to learn together

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JOIN US TO BUILD A BETTER FUTURE helena@productsofchange.com

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MEMBER NEWS

KEEPING MEMBERS UP TO DATE WITH THE LATEST NEWS WONDER WELCOMES GROUP SUSTAINABILITY SPECIALIST WITH EYE FOR CIRCULAR ECONOMY

CAROUSEL CALENDARS WAKES U.S. MARKET UP TO ‘WAR ON PLASTIC’

Party specialist, Wonder has appointed a new Group Sustainability Specialist to provide direct support to and drive the company’s sustainable development progress within each division.

Dan Foster, the former sustainability ABOVE: Dan Foster, coordinator at Screwfix, will work alongside Group Sustainability Group Head of Sustainability, Raluca Specialist at Wonder Runcianu to ensure the business remains “market and industry leading in sustainability.”

Wonder – parent company of SiLC sponsor, Amscan - is currently transitioning its costume packaging to a recyclable mono-plastic bag with 40% recycled content. The team is also targeting a 40% removal of single-use plastics in packaging, 100% recycled cardboard in transport packaging, and 100% removal of unnecessary transport packaging.

“As always, reduction is key for sustainability whether that’s emissions reduction, waste reduction, or reduction of single use materials,” said Daniel. “We’re looking at ways we can reduce Wonder’s impact across the supply chain, focusing on our scope 1, 2, and 3 emissions as outlined with Climate Partner.“ Reuse is high on the agenda at the party specialist which continues to nudge efforts towards a more circular system of operation. As an example, Wonder has increased the number of machine-washable costumes it produces to encourage reuse among customers. The team wants to change the perception of ‘dress-up’ being a single use product.

“We’re passionate about sustainability. It is extremely important to us at Wonder to continue to lead the way in our specific category, ensuring our systems and products meet the requirements of the future,” said Daniel. “The party and licensing industries both have huge potential for creating true circular economy systems.”

Carousel Calendars has streamlined its vision for sustainability through a tri-factor plan of attack encompassing a ‘war on plastic’; Net Zero direct emissions; and Supplier Engagement with the SBTi.

Speaking with Products of Change, md Steve Plackett has placed the emphasis fully on shareholder commitment.

“It won’t work unless companies have these targets agreed at board level,” he said. “My aim is to get SBTi (Science based Targets initiative) to the same status as SEDEX and FSC. I want all major suppliers to have all three.”

It’s a gear change from rhetoric seen previously, but it appears to be paying off for the team which has this year successfully launched over 100 titles to the US market all without shrink wrap.

“Next year, we’ll be adding another 100 titles or more to our range and all of these will be plastic free, too,” said Steve. “The American calendar business has woken up to the war on plastic and Carousel has been instrumental in this by putting in plastic-free box products and sharing our knowledge five years ago.

“Today, major publishers and major retailers in the US are insisting on plastic-free.”

Carousel Calendars is now on track for its near-term target of 46% reduction of scope 1 and 2 GHG emissions by 2030. Its key focus for the coming year is now on scope 3 emissions.

The team also projects to hit 70% ABOVE: Steve supplier engagement in the SBTi Plackett, Carousel

by June 2024.

Calendars MD.

PURE TABLE TOP PREPARES FOR 2024 LAUNCH OF PURER HOME

PINK KEY AND TEEMILL LAUNCH THE QUORN SHOP

Preparations are underway at Pure Table Top for the 2024 launch of its Purer Home brand and plans to “catalyse regenerative change across the industry.”

Scheduled to launch next June, Purer Home’s mission is to raise awareness of and provide an alternative to the housewares sector’s growing problem with fast consumerism.

Through the company’s unique supplier relationships, Pure Table Top has worked with its stakeholders to find “new and better ways of utilising resources” to create more sustainable products in the form of Purer Home’s debut collections.

The brand’s first licensing partnership will be with Eden Project for a collection that will raise awareness of and give back to the reforestation and restoration of vulnerable natural areas.

Lucie Taff, head of brands and marketing at Pure Table Top, said: “We truly care about the way we do business and our approach to production and sourcing,” continued Lucie. “Our products are in millions of homes, which is why we want to use them as a platform to advocate for positive change, starting with the materials we use to create them.”

Quorn has kickstarted its licensing programme with a collection of t-shirts, hoodies, jumpers, and accessories produced by Teemill and available via its online Quorn store.

The deal has been brokered by Pink Key Licensing, which laid its plans in 2021 to build a consumer products programme in alignment with Quorn’s ‘better for the planet’ messaging.

Teemill will create its collection on a print-on-demand basis using only organic cotton produced through renewable energy before being shipped in plastic-free packaging.

“We are really pleased to have opened the Quorn Shop through Teemill,” said Richard Pink, BELOW: Quorn on mission to founder and md of Pink Key get #nugglife trending Licensing. “Teemill prides itself on its approach to the circular economy and sustainability which are values they share with Quorn. It’s a great start to our licensing programme.”

Quorn’s mission is to use licensing to help it kickstart a movement to ‘create a healthier planet’ through our choice of food.

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MEMBER NEWS

MINECRAFT EDUCATION NURTURES ‘INTERGENERATIONAL INFLUENCERS’ Minecraft Education is on a mission to turn young people into ‘inter-generational influencers’ using gaming and a special partnership with UNESCO as a vehicle for change.

Developers at Mojang are now midway through a project to bring sector-specific expertise into its gaming format to engage and educate young people on areas of the climate conversation not always found in the curriculum.

The most recent iteration was Minecraft Education’s pairing with The Crown Estate to develop a world themed around offshore wind farming. Gameplay teaches players the processes behind developing these energy farms, including how to monitor and look after marine life and the seabed that may become disturbed during building.

“We’re looking to deliver that expert voice through

gaming,” said Justin Edwards, director or learning experience at Minecraft Education.

“Gaming has a powerful channel and a very broad reach and high community impact, so this is an opportunity to use those channels for good.

“We’re looking at topics like battery tech and how that will help us cope with ‘not-always-on-energy’, using Minecraft’s lithium batteries and expert voices to teach about the distribution of energy; or learning about how we prepare for heat resilience in a world that’s getting hotter. The beauty of partnering in this way is this isn’t Minecraft saying, it’s the expert saying it – but we’re presenting it in a way that’s engaging and fun.”

POWERSTATION STUDIOS TARGETS CREATIVE SECTOR: “CREATIVES PROVIDE THE SOLUTIONS WE NEED” PowerStation Studios wants more focus placed on the creative sector as a ‘source of solutions’ when it comes to many of the sustainability challenges faced by companies.

Over the last year, the creative studio itself has been making ‘significant strides’ in sustainability, including the incorporation of ‘recommended materials’ for its eco-credentials into its designs.

Recognising the role the creative sector plays answering to sustainability demands, PowerStation has doubled-down on its mission to bring it closer to the industry’s sustainability conversation.

Sharon Weisman, ceo of PowerStation Studios, said: “We know creative professionals care deeply and end up being the ones who solve a lot of sustainability lead challenges for companies.

So, PowerStation Studios is ready to take on the challenge and help lead creatives on the mission to greener horizons.

“With the right tools and guidelines, we can hold hands and agree to transform mindsets and change processes to respect our legacies.”

TEAM GB GOES BACK TO UNI AHEAD OF PARIS 2024 Team GB is leaning into partnerships with the University of Hull, adidas, and the IOC as work gets underway on a carbon reduction strategy between now and the Paris 2024 Olympics.

Its mission is to drive circularity where possible while mapping its carbon with the university, a leader in sustainability research.

“To have the University of Hull on our shoulder, guiding, verifying, challenging our approach to sustainability means we can grow with confidence,” said Scott Field, communications director at Team GB. “We have now retrospectively carbon mapped all our activities right back to 2016, which is where our baseline begins.”

The next few months will give Team GB “a clearer picture” of its carbon reduction strategy.

“We’re also working with partners like adidas to cut down on waste and ensure products are increasingly sustainable,” said Scott. “And with the IOC to understand how we can hire items off their rate card that will then go back into circulation, rather than purchase one-off equipment.”

THE 60 SECOND INTERVIEW… WITH NICOLAS LOUFRANI Nicolas Loufrani, ceo of The Smiley Company, is a busy man in a busy industry.

We grab 60 seconds to talk about the purpose behind Future Positive.

Nicolas, Future Positive is on a very clear mission to drive sustainable change in licensing. What’s the journey been like so far?

Not as easy as I thought. To me, it’s something obvious and a ‘must do’. It’s something all the big brands and retailers say they want to do. But to action this with mass licensed products is harder. Licensed suppliers and royalty rates are a hurdle.

How has the industry reacted to the mission statement?

Great reaction. Only positive comments, but it requires massive efforts and investments by us to transform this into concrete actions by licensees and retailers.

What’s the plan for Future Positive – will it become the standard for all Smiley’s licensing portfolio?

It will take maybe five to ten years to become a standard across all licensees, albeit not all products. It’s going to be at least double the time I anticipated.

So, you’ve got the Smiley Charity Film Awards, the Smiley News platform, and the Future Positive brand… Where does this ethos of purpose come from?

What I did at Smiley was leaving me unsatisfied. There was a disconnect between what Smiley was and who I was, as a creator, a shopper, and a person. I could have sat back and just cashed-in, but I’d rather try build a bridge between the two.

Coaching helped me a lot. There is still some dissatisfaction because I’m not always dealing with likeminded licensees, but the challenge is more rewarding than the absence of action.

I tell everyone progress beats perfection. And I celebrate our progress.

What legacy will Smiley leave?

Smiley is dependent on hundreds of billions of Euros of investments in capital goods by manufacturers, raw materials producers, logistic companies, and retailers. It’s reliant on a constant collaboration between all those stakeholders.

I’m just the clown at the top of the pyramid telling the story.

Wherever I am in five years’ time will depend on too many factors I can’t control.

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MEMBER NEWS

DREAMTEX EYES ‘CLEAR PATH TO SCOPE 3 TARGETS’ WITH GREEN ROSE PROGRAMME The licensed bedding specialist, Dreamtex has “Our sustainability strategy is constantly joined the Lancashire Chamber of Commerce being evaluated and Green Rose Programme developed,” said to help develop a new Dreamtex md, Anthony Sustainable Management Duckworth. “Our BCI membership has allowed System that will propel it towards its scope 1 Above: As part of its sustainability plans us to drastically grow our and 2 reduction goals.

Dreamtex has removed single-use plastic BCI cotton sourced ranges The six-session programme form across all in-store products. with our BBC and Xbox collections, while our spanning six months includes peer-to-peer learning and networking work with the Green Rose Programme as well as guidance and advice for ISO allows for an agile management certifications. By developing an effective of our sustainable strategy.”

Dreamtex is also partnered with WRAP System, Dreamtex will be able to create a and OPRL (On Pack Recycling Label) to clear path towards its scope 3 targets.

HYVE GROUP GETS CLIMATE EDUCATED WITH THE CARBON LITERACY TRUST Spring and Autumn Fair organiser, the Hyve Group is getting carbon literate, having undertaken a full learning course with the Manchester-based global educational platform, the Carbon Literacy Trust.

Hyve has taken steps to increase the wider team’s understanding of carbon – from how to measure and track scope 1,2, and 3 emissions, to the actions that can reduce them.

Following the training, team members will submit their own projects to become ‘carbon literate’ certified while Hyve looks at changes that can be made across the Group to reduce its environmental impact.

“Working in events with the majority of our emissions sitting in scope 3, it can feel overwhelming on where to start,” said Lucy Green, senior marketing manager. “Progress over perfection was a constant topic of conversation throughout.”

The Carbon Literacy Trust is a knowledge sharing platform that delivers for companies and individuals a comprehensive understanding of the climate crisis.

The team has built a learning framework that can be transposed onto its clients’ business models, meaning they can deliver the same education to staff in ways that best suit them.

“Success rests on reaching the companies outside the ‘sustainability bubble’”, said Phil Korbel, co-founder and director for advocacy at the Carbon Literacy Trust. “That’s how we’re going to make a difference, by engaging the less usual suspects in this conversation.”

Hyve Group will continue to develop strategies based on the learnings from the course.

“It’s crucial we all understand the impact of our actions on the environment,” said Lucy. “I’m thrilled to have been able to contribute to our team’s knowledge in this area.”

LEFT: The Hyve Group get carbon literate together.

empower customers with knowledge of how and when to recycle the company’s packaging at home.

In addition, the team are members of SEDEX, an organisation which conducts annual social audits of the facilities associated with Dreamtex’s products, focusing on areas such as health and safety, the environment, child labour, discrimination, and working hours and wages.

This comes as the world prepares to celebrate the 75th anniversary of the Universal Declaration of Human Rights through the United Nations’ Human Rights 75 initiative taking place this December.

LIVERPOOL FC SHOWS LICENSING PARTNERS THE RED WAY Liverpool FC is showing its supplier base the Red Way, aligning it to its approach to sustainability.

A comprehensive sustainability strategy, the Red Way has seen the Premiere League team implement transformative actions across the club.

“Our supply base has undergone a significant review and we’ve selected specialists in their Above: Rishi Jain is director fields who have the ability and desire to fulfil our of impact at Liverpool FC. objectives as outlined in The Red Way,” said Rishi Jain, director of impact at Liverpool FC. “We’re committed to working with those key suppliers and support their needs where we can.”

Key merch partnerships for the club include that with FOCO which has produced a luggage range made from 100% recycled polyester fibres and Water Co. which supplies reusable and recyclable aluminium water bottles.

“Our merchandise team does a fantastic job of leading our work in this area and working with colleagues across the rest of the business to embed our commitments to environmental sustainability into their processes,” said Rishi.

DK BOOKS WRITES CHAPTER ON SUSTAINABILITY Children’s publisher, DK Books is developing new tools and resources to provide colleagues the essential training on how to embed sustainable design into ‘the heart of all the company does,’ the team’s head of operational compliance and sustainability, Nicola Torode has told Products of Change.

It’s part of its latest plan to promote ‘collective responsibility’ and recognise the team effort that needs to be made to reach DK Books’ climate neutral target.

“A key focus for us right now is supporting and educating our colleagues around sustainability and the actions they can take,” said Nicola. “We recognise that the creation of sustainable products and ability to reach our climate neutral target is not something that one person, one team, or one department can achieve alone.”

DK Books started measuring its scope 3 emissions in 2014 and recognises it to be the largest area of impact. Of that, the largest contributor sits within the paper used in its print manufacturing.

“Building good relationships with these partners to ensure data is shared, data is improved, and mutual reduction goals are understood has been vital,” said Nicola.

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INFORMA SUSTAINABILITY

Whether it’s launching its first carbon neutral trade show or driving change across its extensive portfolio of business sectors through Faster Forwards and education, Informa is taking strides forwards in event sustainability.

ABOVE: Sydney Rhea, sustainability project delivery manager, Informa Markets.

EVENT

HORIZ0N

S

itting across a multitude of multibillion-dollar industries – from pharmaceutical and medical care technology, to fashion, food, and manufacturing – Informa should know more than most the financial implications of a depleting natural world.

From manufacturers dependent on water to food producers and pharmaceutical companies dependent on pollinators, businesses and investors across all sectors are exposed. The loss of biodiversity is the loss of business. And if you’re in the business of

providing services for all those sectors… well, that’s one hell of an insightful place to be sat.

It’s perhaps why sustainability plays such a major part in what Informa does. In 2022, the organisation became one of the first to test out a beta version of a framework designed to help businesses report and act on nature-related risks with a forward view to shift capital towards nature.

Constructed by the Taskforce on Nature-Related Financial Disclosures, the system acts to help organisations better understand their relationship with nature. It’s built on the belief of TNFD’s co-chair, David Craig that ‘unless we “Unless we put resilience into our business put resilience into our models and resilience into nature, we will not business models and have business models that will survive.” resilience into nature, we will not have business David Craig, TNFD’s co-chair models that will survive.”

Last year, Informa tapped up the services of the sustainability consultancy, Little Blue Research to run the checks on its dependencies and impacts on nature. It turns out its most significant dependency on natural capital is through sourcing forest products – the wood and paper used for its books, journals, and, of course, the exhibition stands found at its vast number of events.

Company analysis (provided in Informa’s Annual Report 2022) estimates that the financial impacts of climate change through disruption to those Events and Supply Chains could land to the tune of £15 million.

The impact on those industries it works across, however, will be far greater. Which certainly provides the impetus for action.

And action is exactly what Informa is taking. Whether it’s through its Faster Forward initiative to bring sustainability into the heart of everything it touches, or its Better Stands programme to work with its value chain – exhibitors and service providers like GES to reduce the impact of its exhibitions, the company has established a framework for driving change not only across its events, but across crucial global sectors.

“We touch so many different markets, we can be a real influencer of change,” says Sydney Rhea, sustainability project delivery manager for Informa Markets. “And the biggest opportunity we have is in connecting those markets together.”

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INFORMA SUSTAINABILITY Sydney has the enviable job of playing conductor to a symphony of events and publications with an overarching task of helping them play from the same song sheet.

We’re talking events like Food Ingredients North America, SupplySide West, Aviation Week, all manner of Boat Shows, and of course Brand Licensing Europe and Licensing Expo. This is just a snapshot of industries that will all be impacted by climate change.

“But you can’t just force your way into every industry with the subject of sustainability,” Sydney explains. “Because if you don’t have the education on what matters in that industry, people aren’t going to listen.”

This is where the Faster Forward and Better Stands initiatives come in handy. Broken down into three pillars: Faster to Zero (tackling carbon and waste); Sustainability Inside (embedding sustainability into 100% of its brands and events); and Impact Multiplier (connecting the disconnected) the Faster Forward programme sets out to organically weave sustainability conversations through each of its markets. That could be the surreptitious growth of at-event conversation on sustainable development or more overtly transferring conversations from one space to another.

“I was just at Waste Expo where there was a session on Fashion Waste – we touch fashion with our Fashion Trade Show; there was a session on Engineering Waste, and we have Engineering Trade Shows,” says Sydney. “Our trade shows are trying to make a difference, and a big part of that is in the

LEFT: Informa is implementing industry sustainability education across its portfolio of events, including SupplySide West.

provision of – and giving room to – education.”

And then there’s Better Stands, a programme that has been expanded to all divisions and regions to ‘accelerate the elimination of disposable stands by exhibitors.’ In 2022, Informa conducted 312 sustainable events assessments, working with with renewable electricity and energy-efficient lighting, recycled carpeting and more.

The rest was achieved with what James Roberts, business development director global at Informa lists as ‘high-quality verified carbon offsets’ to mitigate the emissions it couldn’t avoid, like attendee hotel rooms and travel. In achieving such, it’s set a new barometer for events, not just in the Informa portfolio, but outside of it too.

‘We’re the largest trade show producer in the world,” says Sydney. “We need to lead the change because we have the

LEFT: As the largest trade show producer in the world, Informa feels the responsibility to platform sustainable change.

venues and suppliers to reduce waste and address that created by its events carpeting, signage, catering, and more.

“Better Stands is about influencing the industry with a goal to reduce our waste to zero,” Sydney explains. “We want to influence how booths can be used and reused “Our trade shows are trying to make a after build, rather than difference, and a big part of that is in the simply disposed of. And provision of – and giving room to – education.” if not, can elements be donated? We’re always Sydney Rhea, sustainability project delivery encouraging exhibitors manager for Informa Markets to think about the next step for their product, so biggest impact. But it’s important we’re not adding to landfill, but this doesn’t stay within Informa – potentially benefitting the local it’s not just about the work we’re community.” doing. It’s the work the events’ Last year, Informa Connect’s industry is doing and we want leading investment management what we do to be open-sourced event, Impower, was certified as and a point of engagement carbon neutral, the firm’s first to and education for others in the achieve this. The event reduced market, too.” its waste and carbon footprint

LEFT: The Faster Forward initiative encompasses Faster to Zero, Sustainability Inside, and Impact Multiplier.

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FOCUS ON: REGENERATIVE FOOD AND BEVERAGES

YOU ARE

WHAT YOU EAT

ABOVE: Akua’s kelp farmers use practices that require no fresh water, fertilizer feed, or arid land to grow kelp.

Evidence connecting healthy soils with healthy microbiomes in humans could just be the catalyst the global food network needs for mass regenerative agriculture adoption. And where there’s an audience, there’s scope for brand licensing.

F

RIGHT: Akua partnered with Nickelodeon earlier this year to launch SpongeBob SquarePants Kelp Patties.

resh evidence linking soil health and gut health - and by extension - human wellness, has got scientists excited over just what the findings could mean for regenerative farming practices in the global food production networks.

Soil health has been highlighted by scientists as a key component in the carbon capture system as well as the global food network which has been suffering a fragility from over-production, disappearing biodiversity, and degenerating soils in recent years.

The ability to connect – through scientific research – the positive impact healthy soils have on the human microbiome through the food system has given hope to the rapid commercialisation of regenerative farming processes

to capitalise on a booming health trend and wholefoods market.

Soil health and soil carbon scientist and expert, Glyn Mitchell – a friend to Products of Change and speaker at its 2022 Sustainability in Licensing Conference - has expressed the great excitement reverberating across the soil research sector over findings

that finally link “healthy soil with the health of people.”

“The potential alignment with corporate sustainability goals, especially those pursuing net zero emissions and a more resilient supply chain, is what I believe will help fund the transformation to provide edible products that show great potential in transforming people’s and the planet’s wellbeing,” says Glyn.

Regenerative agriculture is a holistic farming and grazing practice that aims to rebuild and regenerate soil health, improve biodiversity, and enhance ecosystem services. Among the benefits of the practice is the increase in carbon sequestration potential of healthy soil as well as the improved water retention.

“This can all lead to better crop yields, improved animal health and welfare, and a reduction in

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FOCUS ON: REGENERATIVE FOOD AND BEVERAGES the use of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides,” says Glyn.

Graduate research from the Harvard scientist, Rachel Carmody laid the groundwork uncovering that “changing the contents of one’s diet – by eating more fibre, for instance, which is digested by the microbiome rather than the host – was a more effective way of altering the microbiome than eating microbe-rich foods like yoghurt.”

Her research continues into just what a “healthy microbiome” can do for the human body, but already studies tie it to major wellness benefits, including reducing the likelihood of Alzheimer’s in humans. Such discoveries could lead to a boom in the already surging health and wholefoods markets. And that is an exciting proposition for the licensing space.

Recent data tracked by New Hope Network, which covers the natural consumer products goods industry, suggests that one of the Food & Beverage licensing sector’s fastest-growing trends is the organic market. In 2022, the natural and organic sector was estimated at $288.36 billion, while industry data suggests

consumers are increasingly adopting dietary and lifestyle changes that are bringing them closer to the whole foods market.

Among the Top Ten Trends identified at this year’s Natural Products Expo East – a trade show focused on the health food market – particular focus was placed upon brands now promoting the human-health perks of ‘planet-forward regenerative agriculture.’

In conversation with Food & Beverage Insider, Darien Holman, sustainability specialist at the natural and sustainable food preservatives specialist,

Corbion, acknowledged that “sustainable agriculture has the potential to protect the planet, enhance the economic viability of the agriculture sector, and support the livelihoods and well-being of farmers and the communities they work in.”

This summer, Nickelodeon partnered with Akua, the maker of the world’s first kelp burger to place SpongeBob SquarePants front and centre of a new range of child-friendly Kelp Patties.

The launch was aligned with Nickelodeon’s SpongeBob SquarePants Operation Sea Change and places in the spotlight a zero-input crop that requires no fresh water, fertilizer, feed, or arid land to grow.

“Akua’s Kelp Patties offer a delicious and nutritious option for kids while staying true to Akua’s mission of creating great-tasting and planet-friendly food choices,” said Courtney Boyd Myers, founder of Akua, upon the launch of the range.

“Crafted from 100% sustainable ocean-farmed kelp, these kidfriendly patties are not only tasty but contribute to improving the health of little humans and the health of our vast oceans.”

Through Tony’s Open Chain initiative, the brand is encouraging collaboration across the cocoa market to address poverty and most recently, Tony’s struck up a licensing partnership with Ben & Jerry’s to not only

Crafted from 100% sustainable oceanfarmed kelp, these kid-friendly patties are not only tasty but contribute to improving the health of little humans and the health of our vast oceans.

Courtney Boyd Myers, founder of Akua produce a range of co-branded chocolate and ice creams but to bring the Unilever-owned ethical ice cream company in line with the mission.

“This partnership will not only result in large volumes of cocoa being sourced via Tony’s Open Chain, enabling cocoa farmers to earn a living income, but also places our initiative on the international map through collaboration with one of the world’s most-loved social justice companies,” a Tony’s spokesperson told Products of Change. “It proves that our approach is a valuable solution for all players in the cocoa industry.”

The full extent of licensing’s role to play in regenerative agriculture is yet to be fully realised, but as an area now projected to see a 30% growth over the coming year, the Food & Beverage licensing sector has certainly got something fresh to chew over.

BELOW LEFT: Tony’s Chocolonely is fighting child labour in the global cocoa supply chain while placing environmental concern at the forefront.

BELOW: More kelp farming contributing to Akua’s thriving supply chain success.

The conversation goes wider still. Encompassed in Tony’s Chocolonely’s mission to eradicate child labour from the global cocoa supply chain is a commitment to guarantee that none of its cocoa comes from deforested land. By tackling modern slavery and the 1.56 million cases of child labour still present in the cocoa industry in Ghana and Côte d’Ivoire today, Tony’s can work towards full visibility of the social and environmental circumstances under which its farmers operate.

PRODUCTS OF CHANGE I AUTUMN EDITION 2023 43

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