The Jewelry as neverbeforeseen
AUTHOR | ARTISTAR JEWELS
Via Sansovino, 6 20133, Milan +39 0236580208
Cover Jewel | Linda Giacalone - Dreaming Queer - Brooch - Resin, Silver, Bronze Artistar Jewels 2021/22 Intro | Donatella Zappieri
Artistar Jewels Contest Intro | Artistar Jewels Network Intro | Eleonora Varotto
Editing and Translation | Rudy Intraina
Organizational Secretary | Elisa Desanti
Administrative Coordination | Barbara Castiglione
International Coordination | Daniela Amodei - Federica D’Avanzo - Gloria Gazzoldi - Barbara Pedone - Eleonora Varotto
Logistic Coordination | Mauro Giudice
Editorial Coordination & Graphic Design | Barbara Pedone
Project Management | Enzo Carbone
LOGO FAUSTO LUPETTI EDITORE
Via del Pratello, 31 40122, Bologna
EAN | 9788868743147
Distribution | Messaggerie Libri
Printed in September 2021
ARTISTAR JEWELS 2021/22 INTROby Donatella Zappieri - Jewelry Business Consultant
(2004) The language of fashion
This book portrays the work of 216 jewelry artists. It is an homage to their creativity and manufacturing skills and a way to celebrate them with some anticipation to the Artistar Jewels’ exhibition at Palazzo Bovara, taking place during next edition of Milano Jewelry Week.
Jewelry has always been an artistic gesture, based on an aesthetic concept. Besides its role of embellishing one’s look, it is a statement, a message, often a provocation, hence an escape to banality.
Vehicle of meanings, imbued with so many spiritual, religious or emotional connotations, a symbol of aspiration or a valuable heirloom, through the centuries, jewelry is a way to relate generations but at the same time an intellectual claim, an expression of a concept, stretching to become an unexpected performance. Today, the overall concept of contemporary jewelry has further extended its significance and approach. Not just a decoration or a creative element, contemporary jewelry is a way to conceptualize an idea, a vessel to express one’s individual talent. In a world that is nowadays beyond ‘he’ or ‘she’, contemporary jewelry is all about self-expression, comprising a spectrum that transcends any rule.
This form of jewelry is not only reflecting the culture of the
moment but it also influences it. This is why many of these pieces are one of a kind and carry a flexible approach to materials, encouraging designers to diversify and get creative.
Artistar Jewels has chosen these artists thanks to an open call and then selected them because of their recognizable style and message strength, welcoming the usage of traditional materials reinterpreted thanks to research, innovation and recycling. The emphasis lays on the idea, one of the main pillars of creativity associated to contemporary jewelry.
With this publication, Artistar Jewels pays homage to creativity that should never stop and needs to be preserved specifically in the times we are living into. When we browse through the book, we can feel this amazing creative energy and how much each single designer has been able to cater the strength into jewelry pieces with extraordinary originality, manufacturing expertise and precise labor. As the language of the contemporary jewelry evolves each year, reflecting macro trends changes in the world and society as well as innovations in terms of techniques and materials, all the designers included into this publication, showed a great dose of artistic freedom of expression, carrying strong narratives on many intriguing topics.
We are therefore confronted with a heterogeneous mixture of one-of-a-kind creations, often on the very brink of wearability, combining innovative technological experimentations with traditional craft and ancient technique, designs that are sometimes whimsical, sculptural, avant-garde or refined and at the same time, jewels which possess a raw beauty or delicate sleek silhouettes. One of the key topics in our sustainable age that many designers reflected on is the destruction of our natural habitat and environmental challenges, which prompted many artists to use natural resources frugally and responsibly. Environmental consciousness is explored on different levels; first and foremost, through the use of recycled materials or those that are on the verge of extinction, largely expressed through rough textures, natural, organic, primordial shapes or incorporation of atypical materials, and often inspired by primitive tribes, past reminiscences or mysterious roots.
Another recurring topic is the one of the progress of technology, innovation and experimentation with the most advanced production techniques such as 3D modeling or laser cutting and melting, as well as reinvented tradition - investigation and reinterpretation of existing techniques. Herein prevail
[…] jewelry gives rise to the highest value in today’s fashion being placed on anything insignificant in size but which is able to modify, harmonize, animate the structure of a set of clothes
industrial elements, geometric patterns, architectural silhouettes, cyber reality as inspiration, materials such as titanium, jewels in the movement or reshaping the body, as well as surprising combinations such as TPU material mixed with the most precious stones like rubies or emeralds. These progressive hybrid designs evidence how technology and jewelry can walk side by side, bringing to life amazing and unconventional aesthetics of the future. Beauty lies precisely in a diversity of concepts that characterize this form of jewelry: aside from these main lines that reflect on the culture of the moment, there are many micro-narratives
conceptualizing a wide range of ideas as well. Some creators dissect social issues, interpersonal or relationship between people and objects, dreams and memories, play with materiality and versatility, hence all these creations range from intimate, deeply evocative, bold statement pieces, body ornaments, jewelsculptures or contemporary scenery snapshots. Several artists were led again by the stylistic research: so, one can find natural blossoming, altering structures and aesthetic imperfections, flexible material approaches and convergence of multiple media, yet all with a strong visual impact and
connected with the invisible red thread of an underlying strong concept and narrative that takes all of them far beyond decorative purpose, shifting our understanding of jewelry as artwork and how it relates to the body.
The overall appeal of this wonderful publication lays into the extraordinary “melting pot” of styles and cross-cultural differences with surprising bold and experimental jewelry pieces from China and gem obsessed pieces from East Europe into intriguing mixture of traditional, 3D and eco-sustainable inspired jewels from Italian and Brazilian artists.
creations & authors
Unique necklace hand fabricated using Champleve techniques and construction. The painting is inspired by the prints of the great Japanese artist Utamaro, famous for his portraits of geisha. The artist recreated the image of the original print, with shades of silver gray, black and white, layer upon layer of enamel in her own vision. The connection between the necklace and the pendant, brings to mind the Japanese flags. The 925 silver necklace with 14k red gold is modular and flexible.
# 999 Pure Silver, 925 Sterling Silver, 14K Red Gold, Enamel # 2020
ANDREIA GABRIELA POPESCU
Designer, manufacturer and teacher of contemporary jewelry, she began creating unique and sophisticated art pieces in 2010. Her jewels stand out through daring volumes and new surface finishes and their apparent difficult wearability proves to be complex and atypical. She uses platinum, gold, silver, gems and semiprecious stones, which are sometimes combined with alternative materials in her daring collections.
The art exhibited in museums is generally seen and known only by those who visit them and since you cannot leave such a place “with the painting on your back” to spread the culture, the artist created art-bearing jewelry. It is art in motion… Moving Art! This unique brooch is the image of a painting displayed on the wall. The artist used Japanese paper treated with resin as a support for the painting.
# Brooch # 999 Pure Silver, 925 Sterling Silver, Enamel, Japanese Paper, Resin # 2020
Through her research on some of the most important archeological sites in Turkey, Ayşe found that Artemis was actually related to the Anatolian mother goddess Cybele and was a substitute for the lost original deity. She was also known to have changed form, name and appearance and existed in various cultures around the Mediterranean. Her intention is to express the mystery, ambiguity and singularity of history through a focus on repetition, transformation and connection.
Artist and jewelry designer graduated from Central Saint Martins, London, Ayşe Daga was born and raised in Istanbul. Living in a country which was once home to many different civilizations, surrounded by water and placed in between Europe and Asia, she found herself creating miniature sculptures to be worn, inspired by fragments of nature, segments of history and the eclectic nature of the place she calls home.
Although we can investigate history, it is not possible to completely visualize people’s stories, personalities, myths and cults, if not with our imagination. Living in a country with a complex history, Ayşe has always been keen on solving the mystery behind the link of ancient archeological heritage. Based on the ruins of the Temple of the goddess Artemis of Ephesus, situated in modern day Turkey, her aim with this piece is to try to fit together the pieces of the eclectic sides of history.
# Ring # Oxidized Sterling Silver, 8K Gold, Diamonds, Emeralds # 2021
PREGNANT PYGMY SEAHORSE
Hugging the human arm, a pregnant pygmy seahorse can be noticed, as they are some of the smallest seahorse species in the world, usually smaller than 2 centimeters. Their small size makes it very hard for them to be able to live long. They attach to a host such as gorgonian corals in order to survive, while their coloring allows them to blend in with them. Curiously, the males grow their transparent babies in a pouch on their trunk.
# Bracelet # Polymer Clay, Resin, Pigments, Reflective Glass Beads, Mini Rhinestones, Glass Globes # 2020
CAROLINA GOMES JEWELRY
Carolina Gomes is a contemporary jeweler, BA in graphic design from UEMG (State University of Minas Gerais/Brazil), born in Brazil in 1986 and currently living in SF/CA. Inspiring people through creations is what drives her. In spite of quite a troubled childhood and adolescence, she was at the same time immersed in the universe of arts. Therefore, creativity for her is a force that cures, brings meaning, reinvents, and moves people forward. Since 2017, her focus has been contemporary jewelry.
SEA ANEMONE & CLOWNFISH SYMBIOSIS
This necklace represents the symbiotic relationship between anemones and clownfish called mutualism. In the heart of vibrant poisonous tentacles, it dwells unaffected and safe. Both species provide mutual protection in the ocean: the clownfish is immune to anemone toxin, which allows it to live and reproduce in the same environment and be protected and, in return, they protect anemones from possible predators and prevent them from suffering infections, cleaning them off of potential parasites.
LABRIZ (MEANING SPILLAGE)
Vessels and contents have a visible and invisible, external and internal formulation. This means that one encompasses the other, and thus a position is defined for each, depending on the form of belonging. The space of the container belongs to the content and the presence of the content gives meaning to the container or vessel. “If the vessel is shaped in the right size for what it contains, it will be doomed.”
# Ring # 925 Silver, Borosilicate Glass # 2020
Born in Iran in 1983, artist Helia Hatefi studied architecture at the University of Almeda, where she earned a Bachelor’s degree in interior design. Having been inspired by several books about sculpture and metalwork, in 2012 she launched her career as a contemporary jewelry designer and silver smith, and started with conceptual designs based on stories and inspired by architectural sculptures and forms. To bring her design to life, Helia often used handmade pieces and different materials.
HAYAMAN (MEANING AFFECTION)
A “presence” often survives any relationship between vessel and content, but without the observation that sometimes there is still an invisible presence, the vessel would be left without a meaning. The Vessel collection speaks of this hidden and obvious relationship and dependence of presence, a relationship that extends to the whole of existence in the world. ”Now it s time for me to drink your teeth, in a long kiss, like a bowl of hot milk…”
-A.Shamloo # Brooch # Brass, Borosilicate Glass, Resin, Pearl # 2019
Another beautifully and expertly crafted modern piece of art jewelry, this necklace features a concrete fragment, which in Claude’s work symbolizes a relic of a recent past, wounded by a deep crack which leaves its armature visible, exposing it. The carved fissures or crevices reveal precious traces of gold and hanging pearls. The concrete fragment is inserted into and suspended within a crescent of brass wire which frames and completes the pendant
# Steel, Brass, Gold, Concrete, Resin, More # 2021
Jewelry artist who lives and works near Paris, France, after working as a teacher with a variety of mediums for years, in 2017 Claude decided to experiment with the crafting of contemporary jewelry. Very sensitive to her environment and its spectacular evolution, she seeks to express its fragility with concrete fragments, to create some kind of vestige showing the marks of time and the richness of a, perhaps recent, past.
This mixed media necklace with a concrete and gold pendant cannot be mistaken for anything other than a great example of contemporary jewelry art. It represents a fragment, like a precious memory, a relic of a recent past. A piece of concrete whose cracks are underlined with gold leaf, seemingly captive in a metallic structure colonized by living creatures. Scattered with cultured pearls, golden pearls give the ensemble a contrasting, precious and fractured appearance.
REGENERATION OF TIME - I
It is a bracelet that expresses repeated memories through the regeneration of time. One side of the work is torn down and the lines that intersect horizontally and vertically on the broken side are connected to the side again. The line, which was woven like a textile, was expressed with repeated memories of the past, and the freedom from those memories was expressed in gold. It is light because it is empty inside. 96 x 42 x 12mm, weight 105 g.
Jewelry artist Sujeong Baek majored in metal art and design at Hongik University and received a master’s degree from the same graduate school. Her work of expressing silver as a soft cloth texture and two techniques of expressing traditional Korean gold overlay techniques on a crumpled paper-like texture are important expressions in her jewelry making. She uses silver and precious stones to design her jewelry with the theme of the regeneration of time and memory.
REGENERATION OF TIME - II
The artist aims to convey the image of time, repetitive memory, and regeneration through her work. As with the previous piece and following the same concept, this stunningly elaborate bracelet features different and contrasting elements obtained through peculiar creative processes resulting in striking textural finishes, which are highly symbolic according to the artist’s vision. 93 x 42
WINDOW OF MIND
The texture of handmade ramie fabric made of tough fibers is an important idea for her metal work. This brooch is designed in a square window to express the mind. The night view outside the window symbolizes the calm mind and conveys that through the use of onyx. Using traditional Korean technology, 24K gold was made as thin as paper and heated without soldering. Black onyx, white silver and yellow gold stand out against each other creating color contrast. 68 x 70 x 13mm, 35g.
TEXTURE OF MIND
The silver mesh in this piece represents the determination of the mind that changes with emotion. It is not made of silver wire and it is produced through the use of a manual technique. A black pearl hangs like a tear on the inner side of the mesh, black pearls in the form of droplets represent tears, sadness and joy. The emulsified silver and black pearl contrast with the yellow of pure gold to create an elegant and unique brooch. 57x64x10mm. # Brooch # Fine Silver, Sterling Silver, 24K Keumboo, Pearl # 2020
C03 SILVER AND C03 BRONZE
Each CōDICEDS jewel is matched with different replaceable stone collections inspired by archaeological references, old symbols and techniques. Ring C03 Silver here is paired with the Menelaus collection that reproduces the Homeric hero’s II century A.D Roman bust preserved at the Vatican Museums. Ring C03 Bronze is matched with the Marble collection that recalls ancient Rome’s polychrome marbles. The Bee is also an old mythological and esoteric symbol with its tireless work for the community.
C ō DICEDS
This new Italian brand is proud to present a first collection of bronze and burnished silver rings and cufflinks, created for men and that women love to wear. CōDICEDS’ jewels, inspired by the brand creators’ passion for archeology, art and design, are unearthed, material and imperfect precious objects. They evoke past atmospheres and tell old stories, but are also very contemporary with essential lines and the ability to take on different forms through a patented stone replacement mechanism.
A MERMAID TAIL IN A WAVE
A wave of glass, from which a silver mermaid tail emerges. This necklace is designed to inspire travel on a magical sea tale, hear the song of the wind, dance on the crest of a wave and dive into the delightful depth of the blue ocean after the mermaid. The transparent texture of the glass and the metallic luster of 925 sterling silver set off each other and help to believe that the fairy tale is real.
The creations of glass artist Lada Tazetdinova, based in St. Petersburg, Russia, are about the ballad of the sea and the wind, the breath of rain, the dance of snow and the music of love and wandering. Most importantly, they encompass dreams, adventures and fairy tales, woven into our lives. Reflecting the happiness of freedom and impermanence, these pieces of jewelry are like a crispy wind tangled in the hair, shimmering of the sunrise and enchanting sea songs.
A WAVE RING WITH KRAKEN
This glass ring belongs to the DriftLand Big Waves collection and was created to allow you to always keep a part of the ocean with you. With its color perfectly depicting the glowing ocean hues and the sea foam shimmering realistically, the ring is hiding the secrets of the water within its depth. But these secrets want to be discovered and the Kraken shows its silver tentacles emerging from the water.
TWO-FINGER RING NO. 1 WITH ELLIPSE
ECH Jewelry is based on assembling sets: each piece can be worn on its own, but it can also become the base for a new jewelry configuration with the help of wide range of connectors and removable decorative pieces. The brand engages its clients in co-creation: inspiring and pushing them to invent new jewelry configurations; making them become co-designers of their own jewelry pieces.
# Ring #18K Yellow Gold, White Diamonds # 2020
ECH Jewelry is a new jewelry brand based in Barcelona. The brand founder, Elena Chernyavskaya, draws inspiration from the intersection of contemporary art and jewelry engineering, creating unique, modular designs. ECH Jewelry encourages its clients to drop the usual aesthetic stereotypes and discover the beauty of everyday life in simple and inconspicuous details. SPAIN @echjewelry
THREE-FINGER RING WITH FLY AND COCKROACH
ECH Jewelry is experimenting with the concepts of beauty and ugliness, going beyond the generally accepted standards. The brand creates jewelry to encourage its clients to rethink the role of beauty, to abandon the usual aesthetic stereotypes. Flies and cockroaches, executed with stunning hyperrealism, evoke strong emotions, and leaves no one indifferent. Creatures traditionally considered ugly become pieces of art. # Ring # 18K Yellow Gold # 2020
ARTISTAR JEWELS CONTEST INTRO
The mission of Artistar Jewels, spearhead of Milano Jewelry Week, not only aims to paint a faithful picture of the international jewelry panorama, but especially to reward excellence with prestigious awards which contribute to increase the value of each piece. Artistar Jewel Contest consistently commits to highlighting the artists who, thanks to their technical and creative ability, have distinguished themselves in the eyes of the jury and the general public.
This section of the book is thus dedicated to the winners of the seventh edition of Artistar Jewels Fall Edition, which took place in October 2019 within Palazzo Bovara, a location that, for the past three years, has reconfirmed itself as the precious and majestic set perfect to reveal, like a treasure chest, the riches of contemporaneity. 220 participating artists and over 600 exhibited jewels: this the visionary objective of Enzo Carbone, CEO and Founder of the whole Milano Jewelry Week.
The assessment criteria the International Jury made firm use of in order to declare the three best collections encompass all the conceptual and creative aspects: inspiration, concept and the power of the message delivered to the audience. These go along with evaluations of more technical nature: the novelty of the materials used, the specific technique which enabled the creation of the object, the sculptural quality, wearability and manual skill.
The International Jury of the seventh edition of Artistar Jewels Fall Edition 2019 included
among its members Elisabetta Barracchia - Editor in Chief of Accessory Vogue Vanity Fair and Wedding Vogue Vanity Fair, irina Slesareva - Editor of Jewellery Review Magazine and Creative Director of Russian Line Jewellery Contest, Guido Solari - Head of the Scuola Orafa Ambrosiana branch of 26 Tortona street and of the SOA Lab & Factory of 20 Savona street in Milan, Ivan Perini - Fine Jewelry & Consultancy, Laura Inghirami - Founder of Donna Jewel, AssamblageNational Contemporary Jewelry Association, Kathy Kraus - artist and independent curator, Matteo D’Agostino - Marketing Manager of VALDO, Gianni De BenedittisFounder and Creative Director of the brand futuroRemoto, Simonetta Gianfelici - top model, fashion consultant and talent scout, Carlo Capasa - President of the National Chamber for Italian Fashion, Saturnino Celani - internationally acclaimed musician and eyewear designer and Gianni De Liguoro, renowned brand De Liguoro’s Founder member and designer, who left us last march leaving us with the cherished memories of the extraordinary expressive power which he stood out for. Creative talent and professionalism had always distinguished his work, which will remain a source of inspiration to many. It has been and honour to be able to collaborate with a man of his caliber for many years.
The authoritative and heterogeneous expertise of the thirteen members of the jury enabled, through continual discussion and not without difficulty, the selection of the three winning artists. Thus, we proudly present the Italian Alessandro Dari,
the Russian duo PalladinGold ™ and the Czech Petra Mohylova.
The work of Alessandro Dari merges the physical world with the spiritual in an alchemy of shapes and thoughts which he constantly experiences and that inspire his creativity. Architecture and anatomy are elements consistently present in all his pieces. The techniques which the artist uses take inspiration from Etruscan, Classical, Gothic and Renaissance style, when this art found its peak. The PalladinGold atelier specializes in the production of jewelry defined by a novelty alloy of their own deign: PalladinGold ™ 950. The hardness of the alloy, which contains 95% of precious palladium, is comparable to that of steel. The entire collection The Illusion of Antigravity is made of four pieces. They are all designed according to one principle: a continuous line creates a three-dimensional abstract form in order to shape pieces which investigate the phenomenon of attractionrepulsion present in nature. Petra Mohylova, with her HARUSPEX POSTMODERNUS collection invites us to perceive more consciously what happens around us; ears, eyes, the heart, they are not only organs through which we can hear, see and biologically live, but instruments capable of listening, understanding and loving.
Three very different styles to represent the variety and wealth of possibilities crossing the world of contemporary jewelry. The three artists have been awarded the opportunity to exhibit their creations in the current edition of Artistar Jewels 2022. We invite all readers to discover them in the following pages.MJW 2019 - Gioielleria Merzaghi - PH Giorgia Ionita
ALESSANDRO DARI gioielli
Alessandro Dari is not only a Florentine master goldsmith and sculptor, but also the founder of the artistic movement known as Perceptual Dynamism, classic guitar player and he holds a degree in pharmacy: a well rounded artist whose family history dates back to almost 400 years ago, when Aldebrando Dari opened the first workshop in 1630. Alessandro’s pieces are exhibited at the Museo degli Argenti of Palazzo Pitti and within the Fiesole cathedral Museum.
A sculptural work inspired by and dedicated to the music of Barrios. Fittingly, the name of the piece is La Catedral, as extreme virtuosity with a guitar is the ability to create highly spiritual music. In this piece the architectural elements are inspired by the Gothic period, and the shapes appear to dance with each other. All the Gothic windows have movement, as if a spiritual wind could move them and allow them to converse with one another.
# Gold, Silver, Bronze, Diamonds
The Sacred Spider collection so far includes twelve pieces born from inspiration provided by Etruscan art. According to legend, when the Etruscans moved into Italy from Greece, a spider artifact was buried and never found again. This piece represents sacredness and the union of civilizations apparently very distant from each other. For this reason it is the holiness of life, perpetuating itself for generations into the present and future. The spider in question is the spider of the depths.
To Petra, contemporary jewelry is a method of communication. She engages with contemporary art in an ever-evolving dialogue substituting words with visual elements. Inspiration comes to her both in the form of common omnipresent shapes and objects and as impulses generated by everyday social discourse. The engine behind her designs is the exploration of the potential of traditional jewelry on the interdisciplinary edge of other visual art forms.
On the plains of hesitation lie the blackened bones of countless millions who, at the dawn of victory, lay down to rest, and in resting died. It is necessary to believe in victories. One of the biggest ones of all is already the fact that people are not afraid to go and try to achieve what they feel they have to. No matter who or where they are. The other victory is in finding people who help achieve those results, and sharing them. Another piece from the Jewelry For Working Women collection. # Ring # Brass # 2021
Ultimately, passion is the energy that keeps humanity going, that keeps it filled with meaning, and happiness, and anticipation, and purpose. Even a blind person can sense light but passion will never be explained to those who never felt it. The biggest benefit of contemporary art is not its material value. It is the tour de force behind its message. Passion is not explained. It is lived. Another piece from the Jewelry For Working Women collection.
Another piece from the Jewelry For Working Women collection. A deeply entrenched opinion exists that working women cannot, do not want to and will not wear jewelry. One of the most important tasks of contemporary art is to push the discourse on human lives and values and open new avenues of the multi-way dialogue. That takes courage. Courage to push the boundaries and open new horizons. Courage to do. To ask and listen to the answers.# Ring # Brass # 2021
From the Jewelry For Working Women collection This is a homage to the power of contemporary art and human independence. The concept of working woman was associated with rebellion until not long ago. A working woman symbolized -and still often might- a complete break of what was expected or accepted. Wearing one of the visually provoking pieces of the collection dedicated to working women and their courageous legacy is the same. Independent. Courageous. Passionate. Victorious.
SACRIS AURUM™ AND TATYANA KHOLODNOVARUSSIA
This brand produces unique gold alloys and jewels. It was created by the Laboratory of Innovative Jewelry Alloys of Sergey Kostin, which specializes in creating jewelry alloys with improved characteristics. Tatyana Kholodnova is a jewelry designer with 14-year work experience in the industry. Sacris Aurum™ and Tatyana Kholodnova present their collaboration project Dragons of the Hidden Treasure, which embodies a magic combination of innovative materials and creative thought.
DRAGONS OF THE HIDDEN TREASURE
This collection was inspired by the Chinese legend about the dragon named Fucanglong, the underground mystic creature, which guards hidden treasures such as precious metals and gems and is believed to be associated with volcanic activity. The black cabochons in the set represent sleeping volcanoes under which dragons rest protecting their buried treasures, featuring unique gold nuggets and black diamonds.
# 23K Gold Alloy Sacris Aurum™, Obsidian Cabochon, Black Diamonds, Black Rhodium Plating # 2021
DRAGONS OF THE HIDDEN TREASURE
Fucanglong is usually depicted in yellow, thus 23K Sacris Aurum™ was chosen as the main alloy for the collection, as it is close in fineness to pure gold and has a noble yellow colour. Thanks to its improved hardness it was possible to set gems in the dragons’ bodies without fear of losing them. The volcanoes seem to be asleep from the outside, however, the soot on the dragons’ bodies, represented by the black rhodium plating, tells us that deep inside the volcanoes are active, ready to burst.
There was a large pine forest behind the artist’s childhood home. Some homeless people would hang clothes on the fallen trees, the secret base for children after school every day. The exploration, the gray birds in the sky and the laughter are all an indelible part of her early memories. One day, years later, she stood alone there on a snowy afternoon and took a photo, it was very quiet and only the clothes were still hanging there. She then realized no one would play there anymore.
Hairuo Ding is a prominent contemporary jewelry artist. For her, art is the interpretation of the world and she expresses her findings through her jewelry creations. Her reputation is revived in recent years by the invitation to participate in numerous countries all over the world. She is very fond of using unusual materials and plays with the boundaries of the inward and the extroverted psyche, as they grapple with the dual function of personal transformation and art as a representation of reality.
When Hairuo graduated from university, she returned to that abandoned pine forest in her hometown once again. It turned out that the place was about to be developed as a commercial area. The pines had fallen to the ground and those clothes which used to hang on the trees had been replaced by colorful plastic packaging bags of steel and building materials. She picked up one of these bags and treated it like a gemstone, then set it on this brooch, as the epitome of her precious memories.
# Brooch # Plastic Bags, Magnetic Powder, Silver # 2021
ENCHANTED GARDEN IN GREEN
This series came about from a long ago memory of the artist’s grandmother’s garden. In particular, a memory of a large tree and how the sun would filter through the leaves and create shadows. If you sat under that tree you would see it cast these amazing shadows of its leaves with sunlight filtering through it. The shadows of the leaves seemed to have shadows too. The series became a study in light and shadow - silver, gray and gold. Green druzy was added for the grass.
HEATHER MUNION JEWELRY
Heather Munion currently makes jewelry in Camas, WA. She was originally taught in the American SouthWest style and developed a fondness for fused silver work and the textures it creates. She is still influenced by the American SouthWest and it can be seen in the variety of textures she creates and the use of turquoise in her work. Many of her patterns reflect abstract agave plants and the amazing stone formations found in the Southwest.
ENCHANTED GARDEN IN TURQUOISE
One of the artist’s favorite memories as a child is of her grandmother’s garden. There was a huge tree in the center of it. The light would filter through the leaves and create a wonderful play of shadow and dappled sunlight. If you looked up through the leaves of the tree, you could catch glimpses of a turquoise sky. One utterly peaceful moment captured in a brooch with silver, gold, and a bit of turquoise for the sky. # Brooch # Silver, Gold, Turquoise # 2021
ONE DAY OF BRAHMÂ
Before being and not-being, before time and space, relentlessly the One All was resting but, at the stroke of the last vibration of the seventh eternity, the eternal parent awakens from her dreamless dream. Darkness radiates Light and through the power of Ardor, that One which was hidden by the Void, the luminous child of the dark space, emerges from the great Dark Waters of the Mother-Deep and comes to be. Desire arises, the primal germ of the Mind.
The human being as a conscious manifestation of universal Thought. This is the concept from which Guido Sitta and David Damiotti started to create Humanas, an artistic project that explores the human mind and its connection with the universe. It derives its name from the union of English “Human” with “Manas”, from Sanskrit, the Mental Principle that always exists, eternal beyond space and time, which permeates every level of consciousness, generates, regulates and moves everything.
ONE DAY OF BRAHMÂ
The work is a plastic representation of the initial moment of cosmogenesis, as handed down by hermetic wisdom since the dawn of Indo-European culture. The One All is seen as regular and harmonious succession of periods of activity and rest. With each new reawakening manifestation, everything evolves on a higher plane each time. In the poetic language of the Vedic tradition, these conditions are called the “Days and Nights of Brahmâ”. # Ring # 925 Silver, Ruthenium # 2021
Mind, states of consciousness, divine intuition. Ego is the representation of Thought, of its manifestation in the human. It is Thought that thinks itself; it is Evolution that comes to be through the awareness of the most hidden Self. It is the aspiration to that unlimited reserve of strength and wisdom that can unconditionally tap into and that is there even when it cannot be seen. Ego is a symbol of what makes the human being eternal in its temporary manifestation.
MEN IN LOOP DUALITY
Eternal movement of life, Thought that becomes action, energy in constant transformation. Driven by the incessant motion that Desire ignites, in an infinite loop of inner orbits, faceless identities open the senses to more subtle worlds. Like a castaway adrift, at the mercy of this apparent duality of being, they explore new levels of consciousness, to re-emerge elsewhere and finally to recognize themselves as One.
Featherweight statement brooch with golden petals that tremble with each movement of the body and sparkle differently when viewed from different angles. This jewel is inspired by grids, lights and reflections in urban life. The brooch is made using the SLS nylon 3D-printing technique, metal details are made in sterling silver, gold plated with 18K gold. It also features an intricate golden pattern on the reverse side. The piece dimensions are 12.5 x 9.3 x 1.8 cm
The professional path of artist Inesa is characterized by changes in scale and culture. Born in Ukraine, her design career started in architecture, after which she studied art and design in Italy and renowned Central Saint Martins in London. In her works Inesa explores relationships between material, craftsmanship and design, aspiring to reinvent our understanding of luxury jewelry. The cyber-reality of growing metropolises alongside abstract art form the main sources of her inspiration.
The design for this ring is inspired by the grid of lights defining cityscapes when viewed from above at night. The structure is 3D-printed in titanium using the innovative selective laser melting technology. It represents an industrial artefact framed in the traditional setting of goldsmith craft. The elegant shank is made of silver and gold plated with 18K gold. The size (diameter) of the ring is 17mm.
# Ring # Titanium, Silver, 18K Gold Plating, Swarovsky Created Gemstones # 2019
Synonym of style and charm, the bow-tie is a fashion item historically conceived to dress men. Today with this ring, Jeanne Laumier wants to suggest a new way to adorn and decorate women’s hands. Thanks to the peculiar way they are mounted, the stones create an interesting contrast of ascending and descending movement, while the choice of shades aims to trace a winding silhouette. Both gold and the stones color can be customised to crete different exiting combinations.
# 750K Rose Gold Weighing 9.56G, 3.70 Carats Pink Sapphires In Different Shades
Designer, GIA gemologist and founder of her own maison, Giulia Rastello creates bespoke and unique pieces with attention to details, materials and gems. All her jewels are entirely produced and crafted in Italy by master goldsmiths. The maison’s aim is fulfilling the wishes of its clients, so that, each creation reflects the wearer’s personality and uniqueness. According to Jeanne Laumier, jewellery must be flexible and versatile, wearable on any occasion.
Jeanne Laumier has created this pair of earrings taking inspiration from nature and their name, in French language to connect with Giulia’s origins, has been decided while observing the arum lily with its variety of colors and hues. The white diamonds stand for the pure white arum lily, as the black coated side for the reddish-purple one. The colorful gemstones make up the pistil enclosed in the flower itself.
When Emma was ten she became addicted to sweets. She remembers going to the kiosk and buying bags of marshmallows. She would anxiously wait for that moment. She then played with a lighter to roast them, as they would taste even better. She could spend hours locked in her room watching them melting and became addicted to their smell and taste. It drove her to another dimension. Nothing would upset her, except not having them. She is still thinking about it now, still thinking about her sweet16.
# Ring # Silver # 2020
Jhamiluv comes from a deepest feeling of creativity. A common desire from two best friends: Emma and Marta, who do everything together. As a result of merging their skills in jewelry and photography art, they externalize everything felt inside and, as a consequence, their dream of being part of something new is born. The name of the brand comes from their dog Jhamal, their amulet of luck and pure love reflection, who hides a heart of gold in spite of having a tough appearance.
As a child Emma used to play at putting on all the surgical objects that her father made in his workshop. He was a traumatologist by profession, but he was passionate about metals. He used to create prosthetics which he regarded as real jewels. What Emma did not know was that unconsciously those prosthetics would end up representing jewels for her too. At times something is stored within the self without conscious knowledge of it, until suddenly it comes out and everything begins to make sense.
# Bracelet # Silver # 2016
This is part of an upcoming series of eye-wear pieces and an extension of the series Nocturne. The entire collection is inspired by the shapes of moths. Unlike butterflies, they sit still for long and compared to us they have an ephemeral existence. The contradiction is curious and deceptive at the same time. It questions the notion of existence itself. The piece sits still under your eye rather than over or covering it, creating a strange dichotomy within the face structure.
The artist is an Indian sculptor with an interest in various mediums. She is currently exploring the ‘the idea of adornment’ with an Interest in ‘form’ as a ‘body’ and its transformation; be it ‘skin’, ‘metal’ or ‘weather’. The possibilities encourage her to communicate the sentimental potency of objects. Under her brand Dookdi she makes wearable pieces inspired by moths and insects with an inclination towards slight distortions celebrating the duality of existence itself.
This piece is inspired by the natural phenomenon known as bilateral gynandromorphism, the result of polar cell divisions in the body fused into malefemale characteristics, sometimes possessing a strange patchwork of polar cells manifesting all across. It ponders upon the dichotomy inherited in the process of creation itself and takes its shape from a moth. The tentacle, a sensory organ, is the most salient feature of the piece as it extends to become the lock where the piece rests on the body.
Joana always sees an image as a set of dots, with more or less definition. And even with little definition, that is, few color dots, the image can still be perceived as a whole. With this work she wanted to explore this to the maximum and pixelate the selfportrait by artist Frida Kahlo. The pavé setting is complex and manages to harmonize colors. Digitally designed, drawn in detail and subsequently executed by hand, the pendant is made of silver with gold plating and various colors of zirconias.
JOANA DESIGN STUDIO
A Portuguese contemporary jewelry brand created by designer Joana de Sousa Henriques, who holds a degree in Industrial Design and one in High Jewelry. Art, architecture, design and geometric shapes are her biggest inspirations. All work is done in the atelier. Some drawings begin as 3D models and the pieces are then produced in the atelier. Joana likes to mix different materials with silver and gold and aims to create jewelry pieces with a different language that can be used in a humorous way.
APPLE MAN PIXEL
Piece inspired by a painting by the Belgian surrealist artist René Magritte, “Son of Man”. With this work Joana explored pixelation and contrast of finishes. The pixel configuration of the most important tones in the painting manages to harmonize colors and form the image reading well with the different finishes. All pieces are digitally drawn in detail and then executed by hand. The pendant is made of silver with a brushed finish, oxide and zirconia stones, making up the colors in the image.
# Pendant # Sterling Silver, Zirconia Stones # 2020
FULLMOON AND POLARIS
The moon is capable of driving our deepest feelings, our primal instincts, our real emotions and honest reactions. The serene looking full moon on this fully handmade gold necklace symbolizes the inner peace we are searching for in our wanders, while the little North Star shows the way in our hearts. They both carry hand-mounted blue diamonds, which stand for the bright moon light during dark nights.
JUWELIEREN EREN SAHAN
Jewelry artist and teacher, she was born in Istanbul in 1985 and studied industrial engineering and product design. After graduating she decided to work toward her passion for jewellery design. Training along jewelry artists she learned metalsmithing, hot enameling, metal clay techniques and wax modelling. She is HRD certified diamond grader and also works as a jewelry consultant. In 2016 she founded her own brand, Juwelieren, and opened her studio where she leads workshops.
In antiquity people believed there were seven moving spherical shields around the earth carrying planets, the zodiac stars, the sun and moon. In Turkish, Felek indicates those celestial spheres, but also means wheel of fortune.
According to traditional belief, the most powerful of the spheres brings good or bad luck with its cyclic revolving around the world. This moving ring represents the starry-armed embrace and dance between sun and moon, along with the daily motion of the wheel of fortune.
From an artistic point of view, the crescent is the most elegant jewel in the sky. This shape symbolizes endings and new beginnings in many cultures: they can open the doors of time in the sky. On this hand-modeled necklace the silver moon is watching silently while it is shining with gold rays, radiating peace, luck, hope and granting wishes. Champagne diamonds were carefully selected for its sparkling tiny crown.
#Pendant # Gold, Silver, 0.13Ct
Champagne Diamonds # 2020
Eclipses always come in pairs, coinciding with full and new moons. With all eclipses something ends and something begins in our life and they often bring news of upcoming important events. The artist named these smiling moon earrings Eclipse in the hope that, whenever people wear them, they might hear good news whispered in their ears. Diamond circles represent the light crown of the white peaceful moon in the darkness. # Earrings # 14K Gold, 0.14Ct F Vs Natural Diamonds # 2020
An oxidized silver ring embellished with inserts of marbled paper, this piece draws inspiration from the painting techniques developed by André Masson, known as Automatic Drawing, applying them to silversmithing. Following the principle of “unconscious” production, this ring takes shape almost spontaneously from the assembling of identical modules combined instinctively. A jewel which celebrates the liberating and introspective abilities of artistic production.
A brand of artisanal jewelry combining Italian goldsmithing tradition and the aesthetics of contemporary art jewelry, Laboratorio Lunamante was born out of a 70-year-old family tradition and is specialized in the crafting of custom pieces, producing also small collections in limited and numbered edition. Suspended in a surreal atmosphere, the workshop is a place where the slow process of artisanal work materializes ideas drawing from all arts.
A silver brooch with inserts of colored cotton fiber, the result of the free reinterpretation of candy factories’ smokestacks which aims to counterpose the brutalist look of the scratched and oxidized metal against the unexpected lightheartedness of the colored fiber. A jewel with several layers of interpretation, it downplays in a stinging way the consequences of industrial pollution, suggesting at the same time the possibility of an alternative which would give new life to production waste. # Brooch # 925 Silver, Inked Cotton Fiber # 2021
This jewel is inspired by the compound eyes and the body shape of dragonflies and it is sure to get viewers noticed with its unique delicate gold mesh in a light and plump natural shape. The spheres are fixed on the silver base with gradient blue enamel. The silver and white lines, interspersed in the yellow mesh and blue enamel, buffer the strong colour difference. This brooch truly evokes a sense of vitality and elegance combined through its naturalistic design.
# Brooch # 22K Gold, Silver, Enamel # 2020
This ring, inspired by the souls encountered along the artists’ travels, is entirely handmade with rose gold, diamonds and enamel. Modern and contemporary, the sinuosity of the curve marries the starkness of the black geometrical lines, merging the spirituality of the meeting with the power of traveling. The intense light of the enamel, matched with the brightness of the stones, lightens up he two souls of the jewel, the softness and the energy, the daintiness and the strength.
The brand Leonori represents one of the most sought-after companies within the landscape of international jewelry with colorful gemstones. Since 1962 it has been crating timeless jewels using gemstones of the highest quality. Leonori’s creations are classic, with a contemporary style and they shape matter in order to give it a soul. The natural rubies, emeralds and sapphires are the protagonists of fantastic unique pieces, designed with intense hues and a gradient effect.
These earrings, as for the Anime ring, are inspired by the souls met while travelling. The geometrical shape is a quatrefoil, an architectural element of the Renaissance, which has become the symbol of the Maison Leonori. The power of the this line, broken by pressing rhythm, was able to inspire artists to design dynamic and powerful compositions, which have left a mark on the history of art. This evocative symbol, enriched by gold and enamel, thus becomes a sophisticated and timeless jewel.
# Earrings # Rose Gold, Diamonds, Black Enamel # 2021
FAKE PLASTIC WORLD
This rings is born out of a synthesis between the song Fake Plastic Trees by Radiohead and the art piece Combustioni Plastiche by Alberto Burri. Here the straw becomes a symbol of the consumerist world devoured by pollution, not only concretely and objectively, but more importantly on a human and spiritual level. The small sprouts coming alive out of the combustion of the straw represent life itself, they are nothing but the human race trying to revive itself with great difficulty.
A young contemporary jewel designer, Linda Giacalone discovered and matured her artistic identity in Rome, Italy. To her, jewelry is an artistic medium of self-expression through which she tells her story and her feelings, without any filters. She observes her surroundings and captures them in her work, never searching for beauty, but for that which is suggestive and evocative. Her jewels are conceptual, with a strong figurative aesthetic, created with the only wish to communicate and narrate.
This brooch tells the story of a queer dream. The Doryphoros represents stereotype while the balloon is the dream. The latter brings into a parallel dimension the queer dreams of all who believe in a world without any rules on normalcy. The balloons carry the head of the Doryphoros, a symbol of esthetic standard, of the idea of what is right and beautiful, but twisted, reexamined, bearing elements of the queer and drag world: make up, eyebrows and mouths of different shapes and identities.
This jewel is handcrafted with brass and inox steel using soldering and riveting techniques. M Art Design jewelry is characterized by a geometric style, simple and recognizable, and each piece is unique in shape and color. The artist’s vision seeks to integrate natural materials with a bold use of color and mediums. This results in a contemporary design which reexamines the compatibility of materials and their properties in the shaping of jewelry.
M ART DESIGN
Marina Draženović has been involved in art in various ways for most of her life and has been designing jewelry since 2017, when she completed contemporary jewelry design training with Croatian artist Davor Šuk. Since then she has displayed her pieces in several solo and group exhibition. Her approach to materials is original when it comes to color, texture and shape: she is passionate about experimenting with new combinations of strong and soft elements, shades and mediums.
The artist’s use of recycled materials which are environmentally friendly and contribute to sustainable development, really sets her creations apart in the realm of contemporary design jewelry. The bold combination of copper, brass and silver gives life to an art piece conceived to be worn as a stand-alone item, to best express the personality of the wearer through its eye-catching modern lines. #
BURMESE LEAVES PINKIE
Alix played with a beautiful and colourful lot of Burmese shiny spinels to produce this unusual object of pure pleasure. She wanted these leaves to be delicate, luminous and gourmand. This pinkie ring is also playful since it has two different faces: one is pinkish and orange, and the other is in shades of purple. You can choose which colour to highlight on the top of your hand following your taste and occasions. # Ring # 10.74gr Fairmined Gold, 15.75 Recycled Silver, 22.4 Cts Burmese Spinels, 0.4 Cts Purple And Pink Sapphires # 2020
Alix is passionate about art and craftsmanship. She graduated from the Parisian school of contemporary jewels and entered a prestigious high jewelry workshop from the Place Vendôme. She learned to nurture her creativity and creates unique fine art jewels with her newly launched brand MAD Joaillerie. She crafts them herself in her workshop. Colour and sculpture are essential in her work, for she sees each jewel as a work of art, a miniature sculpture which initiates a dialogue with the body.
TREE OF LIFE
This ring is a tribute to nature, rooted in the first lockdown. This jewel is a reminder of the fact that when manhood releases its hold on nature, wildlife comes back…The tree of life is a strong symbol of continuity, it shows how past, present and future are linked and together create the balance of life. The rhodolite garnet is the treasure given by the roots, surrounded by a foliage of tsavorite garnets and diamonds. The trunk is the body of the ring, which links the roots to the branches.
This brooch belongs to the EGO collection designed by the artist. It features a Japanese carved seashell, inspired by traditional cameos, and a silver drop representing water and the reflection in the mirror. Altogether, this piece can be interpreted as an analysis of shallowness, egocentricity and the ideal of perfection. This modern cameo thus represents the human figure’s unreal and perishable perfection.
Brazilian visual and conceptual artist Marcela studied jewel and fashion design in Brazil, Italy and Mexico, participating in exhibits and art and jewelry installations across the world. Her workshop, where she crafts sculptures and contemporary jewels -unique pieces made with a variety of techniques and materials, like carved shells, precious stones and concrete- is in the mountainous part of Rio de Janeiro. Her multicultural inspiration is the result of her roots anchored in four continents.
Another brooch from the EGO collection, this piece features again the use of patiently and meticulously carved Japanese seashell, with its white warm glow, this time paired with the contrasting coolness of stainless steel. Inspired by asymmetry and by real, imperfect beauty, this modern reinterpretation of the cameo highlights the presence of beauty in the imperfections and asymmetrical features of a real human figure of a narcissus, with all its complexities.
QUEEN OF SKY
This piece, as an oversized brooch, is both signal and symbolism. It is a discarded branch given new life as a lantern of sorts, which has captured the intense flash from the northern lights and brought it down to the bearer. Set with freshwater pearls that symbolize the stars in the sky, bringing further enlightenment and discovery, it creates a network of guidance. Forward movement into a new time.
MARIA LOUISE HIGH
Much of Maria Louise High’s work is inspired by her physical surroundings and personal stories, highlighting the value of small things in the natural world and placing that value at the intersection of a specific time and place to create an authentic token of memory. Her processes include electroforming, etching and enameling to create textural organic pieces, each layered with one of a kind detailing, in scales both large and small to fit your dream.
QUEEN OF EARTH
This piece belongs to a new series, Night Stories, fairytales to include more diverse and contemporary practices of sharing culture in day to day life. It is a standard, framing a shield of jasper highlighted with raw diamonds, the lines and texture of which represent formations of rock and soil, solid foundation. Worn to signify the bearer’s source of strength, whether head or guts, shoulder or heart, the brooch is a contemporary revision of the queen of hearts and the aspect of nurturing.
# Brooch # Collected Twigs, Copper, Freshwater Pearls, Raw Diamonds, Jasper, Stainless Pinbacks # 2020
Following the same concept behind the charm, this earrings are embellished by the combination of yellow gold with white gold on the back side, so as to add more light and shine to the jewels. On the front, the eyes are made of two chrome tourmaline gems, characterized by a particularly intense color resulting from alternating dark green hues and stunning bottle green sparkle. The gallery just below the clip reproduces an enticing and functional geometrical fretwork.
# Earrings # 9K Gold, Chrome Tourmaline Gems # 2021
MATTEO VITALI DESIGN
The artist traces his origins in Valenza Pò and Rome, believing he has taken in with each breath both Roman creativity and Piedmontese practicality.His syncretic art thus results from the combination of these two realities, along with his goldsmithing studies and the application of the most advanced production techniques such as 3D modeling. Matteo’s artistic career has always been supported by contiguous passions like music and sculpture but also by seemingly unrelated activities like boxing.
The concept behind the Babilonia collection is arguably among the most relevant: long hours, obligations, duties and urges proper of today’s world often erode precious individual differences, flattening the contours of the self. These pressures translate on the skin as entropically placed numbers, transforming us, becoming structural and thus undermining our own humanity. In this charm a set of eyes is represented by two small grains of yellow gold, while the main body is crafted with silver.
With this collection, Molly hopes that when people see the hidden messages, they could feel happy and reflect honestly on how they are feeling. Part of this line are a ring and an earpiece. On the earpiece, the message reads “hey, how are you?”. The messages are engraved onto the pearls and reflected on the metal. Hidden within this ring, you will find a little smiley face whose reflection should bring a smile to yours too. # Ring # Silver, Pearls, Brass
With a little humour and a lot of energy, Molly is a jewelry artist currently studying MA Jewelry and metal at Royal College of Art. She graduated from BA Jewelry Design Central Saint Martins in 2020. Her work always relates to self-expression and self-reflection; she is a storyteller who uses her art as a powerful way of connecting emotion between the creator and the wearer. Her work has been recently exhibited at the Art Jewelry Night of Budapest.
The starting point for this design was a project during which the artist asked fifty people to write one sentence they would say to themselves. It was surprising to see their different reactions. Some people had no idea what to write, but others carefully weighed what to share. Through this exercise, Molly found out the importance of how people view and think of themselves. This piece features little hidden messages in the reflection of the jewel, only visible to the wearer when worn.
# Other # Gilding Metal, Pearls, Gold Chain # 2019
The dark sky is covered with clouds, and the queen of the night comes out, the silver moon. Inseparable from the sun, her twin, she is doomed to spend her whole life in the shade, despite the bewitching beauty and alluring brilliance. A lunar day is the time of hidden desires, and what is done by night appears by day: ghosts hiding in the daylight run the show, everything turns upside down and a jester becomes a king. Once you taste the night, you will never be the same again.
MA student at the Moscow State Stroganov Academy of Design and Applied Arts at the Art Metal Department under Vlad Glynin, Natalia Vorokhina participated in and won numerous exhibition competitions worldwide. The pieces are a joint project of the artist and Cultured gallery. Natalia conducts research work in the field of decorative coatings and patinas of various non-ferrous metals. The artist’s works are distinguished by the simplicity and austerity of their external form.
Winding nooks, tangled paths leading to nowhere and opening the way into the unknown, the mind plays a complex game with each of us, deceiving, eluding, confusing with the gloss of mysterious mirages…while looking for the truth in the labyrinth of thoughts and enjoying torturous attempts to find the way out, one ends lost in the pursuit of shadows. The strangest, most mysterious and attractive, the most charming, it is the labyrinth of life. How far are you willing to go searching for answers?
# Ring # Bronze, White Rhodium, Nanosital # 2020
ARTISTAR JEWELS NETWORK INTRO
Cooperation, inclusion and passion for jewelry are the values which inspired the creation of the international Network of Artistar Jewels back in 2018. To this day, the same principles keep fueling active collaboration among the entities which believe in them.
Each year Artistar Jewels celebrates the multifaceted and ever changing elements of the jewelry world, making them available to a consistently interested audience of professionals and amateurs, hungry for the latest innovation. The need to communicate and promote the aesthetics of ornamentation has encouraged an even more fertile dialogue involving over 30 galleries of contemporary jewelry. These pay tribute to the commitment to support jewels -nowadays sculptures, artworks and ornaments - as an important expressive category of contemporary art.
Italy, Spain, Germany, Brazil, France, Greece, Portugal, Poland, Romania, Australia and Hong Kong are only some of the countries devoted to this mission. All the galleries involved in the Network exhibit the creations of artists chosen among those participating in Artistar Jewels. The selected artists are guided and supported in their establishment within the complex and dynamic jewelry sector. The search for talent, creativity and innovation confirms the gallery as a fundamental reference point for all designers involved, serving as a bridge between them and collectors/professionals.
Thanks to Artistar Jewels, these entities are connected as in a constellation, which becomes
brighter each year.
These synergies allow the most deserving creations to concretely travel across continents - a possibility which, without the Artistar Jewels Network, could not be taken for granted. This great opportunity facilitates and amplifies the chances of selling for the various artworks, besides ensuring a real contact with them, giving buyers and collectors the ability to touch the physical object.
However, the effervescent vivacity of artistic production and art exhibition suffered a severe set back during the past year, 2020. The global pandemic has put to the test the survival of international galleries, condemning some to permanent closure. Their activities, not listed as essential, were suspended for over a year, forcing a general slowdown of all the artistic evolution of the sector. For this edition, the Artistar Jewels Network proudly introduces the entities which managed to endure despite the adversities, wishing to all others, more severely affected by the consequences of the pandemic, a quick and vigorous recover. 2022 will bring forth freedom, renewal and a new light which will be shared with greater resonance in the next edition of Milano Jewelry Week.
And so the Alice Floriano Gallery in Porto Alegre, Brazil, is confirmed once again. With the goal of promoting contemporary jewelry as an artistic movement and cultural expression, it has been representing emerging and affirmed artists from all over the world since 2015. On the hills of
the Acropolis of Athens stands the Eleni Marneri Gallery, which gathers under one roof very different expressions of visual art. It aims to serve as a platform for the exchange of ideas and creative practices among all those involved in the production and promotion of contemporary art and design. For the first time since 2018, the Artistar Jewels Network hosts a gallery hailing from the United States: Sculpture to Wear. Since its founding in the Plaza Hotel of New York in 1973, the founder Joan Sonnebend has presented the most exclusive creations of wearable art from the most important artists of the XX century. Today, Lisa M. Berman, the visionary owner of the gallery, operates from an atelier in Laguna Beach, California; the ideal of legacy guides her professional activity allowing her to keep the level of the works presented extremely high. In Hungary we find the unique Ezüstláz Galéria which, besides providing assistance in selling the pieces, regularly organizes thematic and individual exhibitions dedicated to contemporary jewelry, thus celebrating the birth of new creations and at the same time focusing the attention of the public on this specific section of the art world. Milan’s scene sees the reconfirmation of ESH Gallery.
The artworks exhibited by the gallery move along the fine boundary between art, design and craftsmanship. This entity has always focused on the work of artists who find a characteristic element of their artistic production in the oriental aesthetics, particularly Japanese. Last, but by no means less important, the BABS Gallery present within Milan’s old town since 2018. The work of
this gallery is centered on the search for jewels which are small wearable masterpieces: one-ofa-kind pieces or limited editions, exclusively crafted by selected artists, in which the key elements of creativity are condensed in
the compact and highly personal format of wearable jewelry.
Different aesthetics, creations from a variety of countries, unique and experimental projects involving novelty techniques
and materials: these and many others are the elements which the Artistar Jewels Network celebrates with commitment year after year, with the goal to give prominence to the continual evolution of contemporary ornamentation.MJW 2019 - Babs Art Gallery - PH Giorgia Ionita
Alice Floriano Gallery
GALERIA ALICE FLORIANO was inaugurated in 2015 in Porto Alegre, Brazil. Its aim is to show and promote contemporary jewellery as an artistic movement and cultural expression. Jeweller and gallerist Alice Floriano presents well-established artists as well as emerging talent from a worldwide setting in her gallery, thereby offering space and visibility to those at the start of their careers but with consistent, promising work. Apart from its permanent space in Porto Alegre, the gallery began in 2017/2018 to operate regularly on an itinerant basis in São Paulo, Rio de Janeiro and other Brazilian cities, and provide increasing opportunities for the public to access extraordinary wearable art, which is still little known in Brazil. The gallery now represents nearly fifty jewellery artists and regularly selects new names to include in its catalogue. In 2019, the gallery took part in the first Milan Jewellery Week. Throughout 2020, it has remained very active with its social and educational programmes and its participation in the Athens Jewellery Week.
Babs Art Gallery
ABS Art Gallery originated in 2018 from an idea by Barbara Lo Bianco. The gallery’s concept is focused on the collaboration with artists. They are called to create jewelry as if they were sculptures to wear, unique pieces or limited editions linked to the value of creativity and stylistic innovation. The inspiration comes from the desire to show art not as something to see and admire from afar, but to always carry with you - people are encouraged to touch it, to wear it, and in this way, art becomes part of the daily life for those who own it.
The gallery devotes great attention to the process of making, where artists are offered the fascinating opportunity of “converting” the key aspects of their poetics from the large surface of their sculptures or paintings to a tiny and very personal object to wear on the human body. Together with the artists BABS follows the sketches execution very closely, the jewelry production in the foundry or the studio and eventually develops an exhibition project. The exhibition activity includes a solo-exhibition’s time frame, in which the jewelry on display establishes a dialogue with the artists’ oeuvre: sculptures, paintings or photographs in the gallery space. Besides temporary exhibitions, BABS Art Gallery focuses on secondary market jewelry, which includes some of the most significant names in the ‘900 art scene.”
ELENI MARNERI GALERIE
ELENI MARNERI GALERIE, located to the south of the Athens Acropolis in a space that stands on the remains of a Late Antiquity Villa, has played a principal role in Greece’s vibrant contemporary jewelry scene. It has been the first space of its kind in Greece. The gallery has a 30-year record of uninterrupted hands-on engagement with the development in art jewelry practice and has consistently promoted the work of an eclectic crowd of Greek and international artists. Artists showcasing in the gallery employ traditional materials alongside a wide range of unconventional ones that are transformed by the artist’s vision into singular art objects. Contemporary art jewelry, whether a point of departure for the gallery’s activities or the focus par excellence of its concerns, sets the tone for an exhibition program that is equally pluralistic, clearly interdisciplinary, illustrating a rich variety of expressive means. It brings together under one roof an array of visual art forms, from sculpture to ceramics, to video art and installation. Above all, the gallery hopes to serve as a platform for the exchange of ideas and creative practices among all those involved in the making and promoting of contemporary art and design; a hotbed of creative dialogue between artists, curators, critics, galleries, and collectors from around the world.
ESH Gallery represents international artists who express themselves through the processing of materials related to the world of decorative arts, whose works focus on the absolute concepts of space and nature.
Focusing on materials such as ceramics, glass, metal and Japanese lacquer, up to contemporary jewellery, the works presented by the gallery always move in the thin field on the border between art, design and craft. The gallery has always focused on the work of artists who find in the Eastern aesthetics, in particular Japanese, a characterizing element of their research, both for the references to nature, always present in a figurative or purely conceptual sense, and for the spatial investigation that all the proposed works deal with.
From 2016 the gallery have hosted Walking Treasures - Tesori da Passeggio, the annual event dedicated to contemporary jewellery that intends to revisit the traditional concept of ornament, presenting some of the most innovative research in the field. With this exhibition
ESH aims to bring the public closer to the world of jewellery through the language of international artists who express themselves through different techniques and materials, emphasizing experimentation and the added value of handmade.
The Ezüstláz Galéria (Silver Fever Gallery) was born 11 years ago, with the aim to introduce contemporary, remarkable Hungarian jewelry and to challenge it on the market. At the moment, the gallery is the only place in Hungary that presents solely contemporary jewelry. A special point of interest is its location: it is not in the capital but in Pécs, in one of the most important historical centers of the country. The special product range of Ezüstláz Galéria fits in smoothly to the major cultural scene of the city. They are greatly delighted when an exhibited jewelry evokes honest amazement in a visitor. Besides constant presence and sales, the gallery regularly organize both thematic and individual contemporary jewelry exhibitions, thereby celebrating the birth of new creations, at the same time focusing the attention of the audience on this segment of art. The Hungarian contemporary jewelry culture is rapidly developing and is becoming visible on the international scene. Different generations create with the same precision and originality, the only difference may be the approach. The H6 group of Budapest is among the newest partners of the Ezüstláz Galéria: the creations of the six artist is especially innovative, not lacking humor either.
Sculpture To Wear GALLERY
The iconic gallery has been synonymous with studio jewelry for almost 50 years. In 1973, from the Park Plaza Hotel in New York, Joan Sonnebend presented one of a kind wearable art by the 20th centuries most revered artists: Picasso, Dali, Alexander Calder, Louise Nevelson, and Man Ray. Now on the West Coast, the second owner, Lisa M. Berman, aka, the “Visionary Proprietor” launched her debut exhibition “Structural Integrity – Jewelry’s Foundation” in 1999 and operates from an Atelier in Laguna Beach. Berman says, “Jewelry is the quintessential link between the artist, collector and curator; conceived from imagination, evolved through the creative process and solidified into the indelible by craftsmanship”. A consultant for jewelry, fashion, design and art, Lisa placed works in Int’l museum collections, maintains relationships with Film/TV/Media and is a writer for national publications. Berman is the West Coast Representative of the archival collections of: Robert Lee Morris, Cara Croninger and Marc Cohen, served on the Board of Governors for OTIS College of Design, P.R. Chair for Costume Council at LACMA, FIDM Museum Collection, Advisory Council of a Pulitzer Prize photographer and via her Berman Arts Agency, the Director of the Oropeza Sculpture Garden, consults for public art projects and curates gallery and museum exhibitions. As the first gallery partner for ARTISTAR Jewels in the U.S., Berman will bring even more dynamic jewelry to global markets.
Stylistic purity is achieved through contrast: the precious gold and the plain iron are balanced in jointless assembly, whose simplicity is completely achieved through laser cutting. The collection #VERTICALRING, including this jewel, has the distinctive and innovative vertical development: the ring towers on the hand standing out in an eyecatching focal point.
PIN-DEVICE DI LUCIA PETRACCA E ALESSANDRA MAZZEO
The Designer Lucia Petracca and the Microbiologist Alessandra Mazzeo (inventor of the patent US7510687) created the PIN-DEVICE brand, through which Lucia’s design reinterprets the shape ideated by Alessandra. Taking advantage of the common features in the designbreakdown up to the separation of shape and function, in order to reach essence and simplification - they created customizable jewels clearly marked with the peculiar cohesion of simplicity, interchangeable elements, ease of assembly and disassembly.
In this jewel, tridimensionality is obtained through interchangeable geometrical elements that are perpendicularly insertable in the iron foil that serves as the ring base. The juxtaposition of iron and yellow, red and white gold-plated elements, jointly with the laser cutting technique used in the realization of the ring, effectively symbolize the post-modernism conveyed by the artists.
# Ring # Iron, Yellow / White / Red GoldPlated Metal # 2019
This brooch was inspired by the paintings of the designer. Renee used the flowing lines to depict the movement of water and used the filigree technique to portray it. The designer enclosed these details in a 7cm circular frame. It is a wearable brooch but also a small art decoration. This structure is 1.65cm thick and shows the shape of the resin shadow under the light. When worn, the filigree part is protected by the upper 1mm glass, the fusion with the resin drops is harmonious.
QIUGUO PAN RENEE
Renee Pan is a contemporary jewelry designer from China who who obtained her MA from the University of Edinburgh and BA from Birmingham City University. She participated in New Designers Exhibition and International Jewelry London in 2018, and in Graduate Collection BCU-Work on Loan. In March 2019, she participated in the collaboration project in The National Museum of Scotland and she was selected as the Global Young Talent of 2020 in “12/2020 UK Harper’s Bazaar”.
Water is ever-changing, so in Renee’s Water brooch series, each jewel is unique. For this one resin was used to create a special texture that shows a different “water surface”. 5cm diameter glass combined with resin that conveyed a special crystal and translucent feeling under the light. The randomly distributed pieces of gold foil combined with randomly appearing bubbles seem like fallen leaves on the water.
MOTHER EARTH GIVING BIRTH
The earth is perceived to be the provider in many of the world’s mythologies. In Sanskrit it is known as ‘ Pṛthvī Mātā ’ and is a common personification of the Earth and its biosphere as the giver and sustainer of life. This timeless belief is the inspiration for this pendant. This piece is an attempt to freeze a moment from the act of creation. Platinum coated silver forms the base which is embedded with Swarowski crystals. The crystals are symbolic of everlasting fertility.
#Gold Plated Silver, Swarovski Crystals # 2016
Third generation goldsmith Sunil Revankar was initiated into his family profession at seventeen. Having handcrafted gold jewels since he was a teen, he displays a sense of contemporaneity in his designs expertly combined with tradition. He admits he cannot but be inspired by traditional practice and the aesthetics of Indian goldsmithing, preserved and carried forward through generations. He won the “Indian International Jewelry Designer Award -2004” awarded by DeBeers (DTC).
To complete a journey through the maze of life requires ambition and an immense spirit of adventure and passion towards achieving one’s goals. This ring is built entirely with platinum coated silver, fan shaped pieces stacked irregularly in a flower pattern show the different levels of circumstances. The solid metal form without embellishments, its minimalist pattern and a dizzy arrangement aspires to adorn a ‘go getter’. #
The Sphinx, with the head and breasts of a woman, a lion’s body and a huge pair of wings, is a symbol of hidden secrets and mystery and was considered a guardian with royal power said to have guarded the entrance to the Greek city of Thebes, posing riddles to travelers to allow them passage. The labradorite stone set in the bracelet, is connected to features of magic and mystic power throughout history because of its remarkable color changes.
When Gil Zohar completed her Master’s in Business Development, she began working with top fashion magazines and TV shows as fashion editor, writer and stylist. In 2016 she left her career after over a decade to pursue her passion for ancient Egypt, creating jewelry born out of her connection to that period. Every detail in her pieces has a deep meaning and power from this past world of gods, magic, mythology and treasures, making them something beyond aesthetics or a passing trend.
ROYAL COUPLE KISS
The royals featured on this ring, Akhenaten, the powerful king, and Nefertiti, the most beautiful woman in ancient time, reigned over what was arguably the wealthiest period of ancient Egyptian history and were the power couple of the time. Nefertiti, principal wife of Akhenaten, Tut’s father, was one of Egypt’s most famous queens, the Cleopatra of her time. Just as beautiful, just as wealthy, and just as powerful – if not more. # Ring # 24K Gold Plated Silver, 22 Sapphires # 2021
The unconventional shape of this ring from the Grid Collection derives from experimenting, bending and folding pierced structures in metal allowing Salima to shape and create in numerous unpredictable ways. Every piece is a challenge in itself, experimenting with the technical boundaries of precious metals. Left untouched, filled with either an additional complementary precious alloy to create contrasts, or set with stones, just like in this ring. # Ring # 18K Yellow Gold, Diamonds # 2020
SALIMA THAKKER JEWELLERY
Every year starts by searching inspiration, without rules: designing is always personal. It is like a dream which Salima tries to make into realty, telling a story with no limits. It is always exciting to see how far a new collection can go, whether through the use of innovative techniques, unexpected materials or introducing new ways of wearing jewelry. It is all about finding the right balance between being inspired by techniques or aesthetics from the past with a contemporary vision.
This rather monumental and architectural way of looking at jewelry finds its roots in Salima’s fascination with reptile skin and intricate structures. By linking numerous tubes of different shapes, looking for the ideal pattern, she succeeds in producing fine and unique pieces that only show off their ingenuity when worn. They trail along the body and take on different shapes, almost becoming a second precious skin. # Bracelet # 18K Yellow Gold, Patinated Silver # 2019
Officer Lenny the Crocodile has hurt his knee and just wants a cuddle from his husband. As the tears are flowing down his little crocodile face, members of the public are coming to his aid to comfort and cuddle him, as he secretly plans on taking advantage of their unattended purses and buggies. Officer Lenny is actually a pathological liar and you would be better off not believing a word he says.
# Yarn, Soft Toy, Thread, Beads, Stuffing Materials # 2020
A lateral thinker; a lover of the unexpected; a crochet aficionado; Sam has been fascinated by the realm of textiles since early childhood, where a deep intrigue of the tactile and intimate qualities available within soft materials has led him to crafting crochet objects which invite the audience to touch, hold, squish, adorn, and to play. His aim as an artist is to provide a form of pleasure by creating jewels that transcend the immediate needs of real-life issues.
COULDN’T GIVE A MONKEY’S
Karen the Monkey wants to speak to the manager and could not give a monkey’s if they are on their lunch break. Karen is furious that she is being told that she cannot use her discount voucher that expired eight months ago and is refusing to leave until she gets her way. Karen worked in retail 25 years ago and therefore definitely knows exactly what she is talking about. Everyone else is wrong, not Karen.
# Necklace # Yarn, Soft Toy, Thread, Beads, Stuffing Materials
WIND IN THE GARDEN SAKURA
Wind blows they scatter and it dies fallen petals. Yosa Buson (1716 - 1783). This brooch is made of black ruthenium-plated gold with four carats Pamir spinel, rubies, pink sapphires, morganite, diamonds and enamel. Flying sakura petals convey the brevity of flowering and symbolize the fragility of nature, making you appreciate the moment, because the following time sakuras would bloom would be only in a year. This brooch won the Grand Prix at the Russian Diamond Line 2020.
Jewel designer Sergey Izmestiev was born in 1977 in Yakutsk, Russia. After receiving a master’s degree in metalworking at MSTU in 2000, he founded a diamond polishing facility in Moscow. In 2006 he founded the Izmestiev Diamonds brand. The Japanese Garden collection is inspired by the canvases of Japanese artists who occupy a leading position in nature. The collection will introduce you to the inhabitants of a traditional Japanese garden.
The ambience of a hundred years: this garden’s fallen leaves Matsuo Basho (1644–1694)
Six years ago, a colored stone dealer friend of Sergey, showed him this rubellite, and he fell in love with it. Then for a long time he could not decide what kind of decoration to make with it. Until a begonia appeared. Sometimes what we are looking for is nearby, sitting on a windowsill. The Begonia ring is made of gold and set with 15ct rubellite, rubies, pink sapphires, white and black diamonds.
# Ring # Gold, Rubellite, Rubies, Pink Sapphires, White And Black Diamonds # 2019
“Home is where the heart is. And my heart is always where I am.”(Lily Leung)
This jewel is a reliquary piece which is hiding the most secret thing, something special and unique belonging to a saint. All the saints possess a great and courageous heart, full of love and pain at the same time. The artist crafted this one from silver and describes the experience as a wonderful creative moment during which his hands worked together with fire and the love in his heart.
Constant uniqueness, difference and the incredible truth that there are no two things exactly alike in this world. All these notions are pushing the artist to create raw jewelry, which has not been 3D printed or made by machines like yellow rubber ducks. The human being is unique, every person is entirely original and that is why all of his natural jewelry is made specifically for each client. All of his work is entirely handmade using artisanal goldsmithing techniques.
This ring, handcrafted using 14K white and yellow gold is a piece of jewelry which can be likened to a soul: it is strong and fragile at the same time, full of feelings yet sometimes so empty. It is running forward and remaining in the same place. It is something everchanging and forever fascinating, bound to mysteriously entrance humanity for as long as there is life. Its total weight is 21.85g.
People are creating things that look more and more organic. Whether it is delicate jewelry or an office building blocking the view of the sky, whatever the means, they are made by hand. Some say they are not handmade because machines are used, however we control these machines with our hands and the machines were originally made by man. Everything we make is artificial. The hand the artist created is the hand that made all of his jewelry thus far, he has have reproduced his own hand.
When creating jewelry, the artist considers how it affects the mind of the wearer. In order to address how to grasp a mind, he searches for the different materials necessary and designs a form to combine them: materials and form can be treated like language and he wants to talk to people using jewelry instead of words. As jewelry is worn on the skin, it is the closest thing to the body while reaching the inner heart too so, in making jewelry, honesty is essential.
When the artist was told by a friend she was carrying a new life in her womb and could feel the fetus moving, he was struck by how he could not understand what that feeling might be like. Surely wonderful, defined by a combination of anxiety, excitement and expectation, he speculated. When this necklace is worn, the pendant rests on the spot that marks the womb. He wanted to experience the excitement his friends felt, but could never feel the same thing, only wish for it, even just a little.
Sparks of light, thousands of rays gathered together, myriads of faces shimmering and dissolving into each other –the bright, attractive, unique cosmos combined in a single element. It looks like an explosion of light, as though millions of stars came together in order to create the universe, and so they remained in a frozen moment, a symbol of eternity and mystery. A little more and it will flare up with a burst of sparks, the unrestrained fire of life. Are you ready for a bigbadaboom?
This artist is leaving his mark in the high jewelry world with unique one-off pieces, none of which will ever be copied. Vlad Glynin designs resemble technical drawings of highly complex mechanisms, yet evoke the spirit and aesthetic of the Academic Art. Currently he lives and works between Moscow and Florence. Associate Professor of Art of Metalwork at Stroganov Moscow State University of Arts and Industry since 2015, he has participated in many other competitions and exhibitions.
Juicy like the long-awaited summer, rich like the August sky, ripe like a berry, sweet like the first love. With the fragrance of sea spray, warm sun rays and a gentle scarlet sunrise. With the taste of raspberry, freshness and youth, with the sourness that sharpens the senses. With the color of tenderness and desire. What could be better than this engrossing feeling of youth and recklessness, thanks to which wings grow right behind your back and it seems that any dreams will come true?
# Ring # White Gold, Rose Quartz, Rubies # 2015
TI GUARDO LE SPALLE PAESAGGIO I
Bronze epaulette. Memory of ancient armors, protection, shield. Metal molded to the body. This reference to the past becomes a contemporary snapshot. An elderly fisherman peacefully waits in the light of a lantern. The light shines softly on the scene, reassuringly chasing away the dark. A flame in movement. It protects and safeguards. An embrace. El rit “Nani, Te quarce me le spale”. (It smiles “Son, I’ll watch your back”.)
# Other # Bronze, LED # 2021
VOONDER PBY LUCA MORENI
This brand was born in 2021 in Milan as an expression of the creative work of jewelry and lighting designer Luca Moreni. The artistic creation is structured through the convergence of multiple communication mediums, with the aim of crafting highly symbolical unique pieces. The immateriality of light, the plasticity of metal and the lightness of the stones are all combined in the representation of an ironic, estranged and poetical everyday life.
TI GUARDO LE SPALLE PAESAGGIO II
Bronze epaulette. Memory of ancient armors, protection, shield. Metal molded to the body. This reference to the past becomes a contemporary snapshot. And so emerges a rarefied landscape, devoid of anthropomorphic points of reference. Humanity is absent, but the scene is alive. Quietly, some birds lay down on an industrial view and the light of streetlamps irradiates around. No, Je ne me souviens pas de grand chose. (No, I don’t remember much.)
# Other # Bronze, Zircons, LED # 2021
Storytelling and the use of imagination are huge aspects of Xun Liu’s work. This collection is driven by antique fishing lures which the artist collected from various places. She crafted a story with each one of them to create an intimate relationship and explore jewelry as an art form rather than focusing on the idea of conventional wearability. Jewelry should not be defined just by fixed forms, so Xun Liu seeks to go further and push its boundaries with her art.
Jewelry artist, designer and educator, Xun Liu’s work has been shown internationally in the United States, Spain, Greece, Australia, Portugal, and China. She obtained her Master of Fine Arts in Jewelry from Savannah College of Art and Design in Georgia, USA. Liu’s early investigation focused on public art such as paintings, sculptures and installation works, which has provided her a different perspective while designing and creating her own jewelry.
The exaggerated gestures, expressiveness and different colors of antique fishing lures are very inspiring to the artist, conjuring feelings and memories of her childhood. She set out to be the bridge to connect them with the world, and help them speak by giving them individual characteristics in the form of jewelry. This way Xun Liu hopes to give these found objects unique voices to communicate with people beyond their physical form. #