Artistar Jewels 2019 by Prodes Italia

ARTISTAR JEWELS 2019

The Contemporary Jewel as never seen before

Photo @ Silvia Pampallona

“What fascinates me about contemporary jewellery is its uniqueness and art. Each creation is a tiny wearable artwork that tells a story and conveys emotions.” Enzo Carbone Founder of Artistar Jewels

NTRO by Maristella Campi - fashion and costume journalist -

HERE is a city that has always, more than any other, acted as a dynamic catalyst for creativity: it’s Milan, where art and design, fashion and entertainment cross each other, sometimes overlapping their own languages, sometimes working side by side, sometimes making them collide to create a big bang from which it comes out lifeblood to meet the “new”. In its recent history, from the seventies onwards, Milan has been able to move on different levels, ecnouraging the meeting between the prêt-à-porter designers, the jewelry artisans and the bijou artists who started a fruitful and prolific collaboration, rich and fervid. There has never been a lack of ideas and projects have always flourished; manual ability has represented a strong link with a past of deeply rooted traditions and manufacturing capacity has welcomed the arrival of the future, feeding on technological innovations. Milan has connected and still connects worlds with similar and different languages; it contains a beating heart and has a forward-looking eye, it is expert and full of knowledge. It opens up, generous and curious, outward, measuring itself equally with all the solicitations that come from other worlds. Because of this, only Milan could be the city, the designated place to host the contest, unique in the world, that is Artistar Jewels. A showcase in the showcase, one might say, because if Artistar Jewels gives international visibility to jewellery and bijoux, to the works and small “wearable” sculptures of established and emerging designers and artists, but also of handmade enthusiasts and daring experimenters from all over the world, it is also true that Milan amplifies

this visibility through the media power of its communication channels, but also and above all thanks to a distinguished word of mouth, prestigious and influential. The bond of Artistar Jewels with Milan, and with all its cultural activities and manifestations, is strong and, fair to say, rooted. And also reciprocated and shared. Jewellery and bijoux come out from their traditional boundaries to enter into those, fluctuating and fluid, of the art, of the design and, above all, of the fashion. For this reason it is no surprise that, since 2017, Artistar Jewels is one of the most important and most awaited events of the Milan Fashion Week of February. The bar of expectations has become increasingly higher, year after year, because the contest allows a qualified look at contemporary trends from all over the world; because it tells so many personal stories in an inclusive way; because it involves the visitors, from professional to passionate, from the expert to the neophyte, in a path where creativity goes unbridled. Milan finds its old connection with the preciousness of the jewel, with the fantasy of the bijou, with the experimentation of the design work, offering the possibility to those who approach the Artistar Jewels project, even for the first time, to interact with the “actors” of fashion and design, attentive witnesses of the evolution of our times, sensitive anticipators of what will happen. Giving way to a mutual exchange of ideas, inspirations and emotions necessary to build a contemporary jewellery culture. With the contribution of works that start from afar, from many countries all over the world, and arrive on display in Milan, Italy, where beauty in all its forms has always been at home.

GUSTINA ROS seeks, with glass, to combine the time of the trade, the sensitivity of art and the resolution of design. Her pieces of wearable art are made in borosilicate glass, modeled and blown by the technique of flameworking. She also exhibited at Melting Point inValencia; Inthependant Gallery in Oporto, 4th Triple Parade in Shanghai and NY Jewelry Week.

Gold Reflection Ring

2018 Glass, Gold

This seductive ring is born through intensive experimentation techniques with transparency. The shapes are created with the flamework technique. The colors were selected by testing the reflective effects of gold fuming over the pieces without losing the translucency. When the ring plays with the light, reflections and tones appears. 14

Gold Reflection II Ring

2018 Glass, Gold

This bespoke creation was born when playing with colours and transparency. When the ring is surrounded by light reflections, different colours shades appear. The shapes are created with flamework and thus unique. The golden touch has been created after the main shape was created, through a final gold fuming.

Spain || www.agustinaros.com || aloagustinaros@gmail.com || +34 634633172 15

NASTASIA DUBROVA is a BA student at the Moscow State Stroganov Academy of Design and Applied Arts at the Art Metal Department under Vlad Glynin. She has participated and won in various Russian competitions and exhibitions. Her artworks here presented are distinguished by conciseness of form and external minimalism filled with deep philosophical meaning.

Roly-Poly Toy Ring

2018 Bronze, White Rhodium, Nanosital

Interpretation of the Russian roly-poly doll. Round, without sharp corners, it becomes a source of good emotions. Polished metal and spherical stone reflect surrounding objects, plays with light. It’s impossible to imagine something simpler. The details would be superfluous and would not allow to feel the unity of form and content. 34

Portal Ring

2018 Bronze, White Rhodium, Nanosital

The world around us consists of different forms. In nature, they are barely distinguishable and blend into each other. Here, these two forms are harmoniously combined, forming a single whole. Their fusion gives birth to a laconic form, attracting the eye. It can be both an independent jewelry object and a ring.

Russia || anastasiyadd@gmail.com || +7 9264600781 35

NNA MACCIERI ROSSI started her career at Maison Cartier in Paris. She then moved into brands such as Jaeger-LeCoultre, Bulgari, Tiffany & Co. Watches. In 2018 she decides to create her own line, with a project that expresses her important heritage, paying tribute to the memory through imagination and the concept of time.

Teatro Del Mare Bracelet

2018 Sterling Silver, 18Kt Gold, Mother-of-Pearl Disk, Diamonds

This bracelet changes its appearance through a quartz movement that allows the mother-of-pearl disk, located inside the watch casing, to make a round of 24 hours. Day face: seascape. Night face: starry sky and white moon. The star represents the second hand and reminds those who look at it that time is precious. 48

Teatro Selvaggio Pendant

2018 18Kt Yellow Gold, Natural Diamonds, Sapphire Crystal, Mother-of-Pearl, Orange and Pink Sapphires, Quartz

Hand painted pendant that changes through a quartz movement that allows the disk to make a complete round of 24 hours. On the day face there is an elephant, symbol of memory while on the night one there is a jaguar, symbol of cunning. The star represents the seconds hand and reminds those who look at it that time doesn’t come back.

Italy || www.annamaccierirossi.com || info@annamaccierirossi.com || +39 3488871771 49

nna Maria Pitt, Icelandic born silversmith and jeweller, holds a BA Honours degree from New Bucks University, UK. She draws on inspirations from nature, creating wearable or stand alone silver and gold jewellery by applying cold connection techniques alongside with hot. She has held private jewellery exhibitions and participated in group exhibitions across Europe.

Helix - Necklace Necklace

2018 Sterling Silver, 9Kt Gold

A bespoke necklace made from sterling silver and gold. Inspired by the natural form of DNA, a molecule of two chains that coil around each other to form a double helix, the genetic composition and functions of all living organisms. The necklace rests on the collarbones and extends itself down the sternum, further protecting the heart. 56

Helix - Bracelet Bracelet

2018 Sterling Silver

This bracelet is also inspired by the natural form of DNA. The piece is formed by covering a structural geometric grid with multiple individual loops, creating texture, movement and dimension to the wrist it rests on. The artist focuses on creating sculptural jewellery to celebrate the historical craft of handmade objects.

UK || www.annamariapitt.com || info@annamariapitt.com || +44 7711901313 57

rt I Fact Jewellery by Ilya Agadzhanov is a creative laboratory founded to search for a new jewelry language that is not afraid to play with forms and styles, textures and materials. They focus on the needs of each client and give them the opportunity to express themselves, to emphasize their individuality, their mood, realizing their dreams in precious stones and metals.

Astrolabe Ring

2017 Gold, White Diamonds, Rock Crystal, Orange Sapphires, Tanzanite, Zircon, Spinel, Ruby, Demantoid

The inspiration for this ring came at Lace Museum on Burano island, when the artist saw an old lace napkin with the galaxy map. The central part of this precious ring spins on movement. The quartz crystals act as magnifying glasses, to see even the smallest detail contained in this one of a kind ring. Structure realized in 18Kt yellow gold. 68

Prawn Brooch

2018 14Kt Gold, Sapphires, Fancy Cut Nanosital

This one of a kind brooch is part of the collection “Reef inhabitants”. The artist has been inspired by the beauty and mysteriousness of the underwater world. He used asymetric tones to give life to this beauty. The body of the prawn is realized with sapphires and nanosital, while the rest of the work is made in 14 carat yellow gold.

Russia || www.artifactjewellery.com || artifactjewellery1@gmail.com || +7 9126129900 69

IA TAMBELLI is a jewellery designer and visual artist, born in 1987. Since she was a child, she has felt attracted to the sensations that the shapes and colours of the natural elements of her land could conjure up for her. In 2017 Bia began with her high jewellery brand, named Bia Tambelli Creations. Each jewel she creates is a manifestation of strong energy.

Trinity - Ring Ring

2018 18Kt White Gold, Yellow Gold, Black Rhodium Plating, Diamonds, Citrine, Rock Crystal

Two overlapping pyramid-shaped structures representing a personal interpretation of the Star of David. Made in white gold, yellow and black rhodium. The trillion diamonds reinforce the idea of triunity. The rock crystal carved for the piece carries the mission of purification and also the transcendental aesthetic symbol of the collection. 82

Trinity - Bracelet Bracelet

2018 18Kt Yellow Gold, Black Rhodium Plating, Brown Diamonds, Citrine, Rock Crystal

Formed by a set of gradient pyramid structures made in 18k gold, it expresses an intellectual and spiritual order, in God, in the cosmos, in the man. The round light brown diamonds are the way to the “Sun” represented by the mini citrus pyramids at the ends, which act as powerful purifiers and regenerators.

Brazil || www.biatambelli.com || contact@biatambelli.com 83

ARLO LUCIDI is an artist, graduated from the Academy of Fine Arts in Rome, where he currently

teaches. He travels in Italy and in Europe, working in important theatrical and cinematographic productions, winning prizes and awards. His works have been published and hosted at prestigious institutions all over the world.

Silentium VI - Hortensia Pendant

2018 Sterling Silver, Hydrangea Petals

It turns yellow as the moments pass, it wilts, still, between the silver nails. Hydrangea, memory of fury. Hydrangea, detachment of passion. Hydrangea, I want you to take hold in a field of flowers, armor on a summer evening and fire even when the rain is beating on the windows and we are sitting here. 86

Silentium VII - Hortensia Ring

2018 Sterling Silver, Hydrangea Petals

Delicate like a petal, thin, wrinkled, fragrant memory of the flower that was. Excrescence of links and the subtle substance that comes from them. Silent silence between thin layers and breath on the skin. Look at me with your breath and look at me. At least tonight, before everything fades into a damp and cold Autumn morning.

Italy || www.carlolucidi.com || info@carlolucidi.com || +39 3405972678 87

ENIS MUSIC, jewellery designer who excels in contemporary style, was born in 1975 in Leningrad. Now based in Ukraine, invigorated by the unceasing exploration of new techniques, materials and forms, Denis goes far beyond craftsmanship by creating what can only be described as “mobile art objects”. All of his pieces are hand-crafted in limited quantities.

Cradle Ring

2018 Black Vintage Silver

This piece is invoking a brutal industrial aesthetics. Silver reinforcing bars form the ring’s base. Substructures rise in the place of the stone. Using a form of the reinforcement and focusing on the hard-core groundwork, Denis unveils the modern world crisis and the need to go back to the roots and reassessing values. 98

Backbone Pendant

2018 Black Vintage Silver, Steel

Silver reinforcing bars, welded as a hardcore groundwork, steel bearing inside, as a symbol of a foundation’s core: this is a look the Reinformation collection. When creating this collection, the author, inspired by European Reformation, disposes excessive details in its shape, emphasizing an idea of the hard core groundwork.

Ukraine || www.denismusic.com.ua || mnk@denismusic.com.ua || +380 503530881 99

ENIS SOZIN ponders over various things in his works. The idea in his compositions does not become an oppressing, a blinding exhortation. It is intertwined with his outlook and creates a whole new world of thoughts, senses, feelings, dreams and wishes. Not always clear and simple things can make our mind actively seek for an explanation.

Glasses - Necklace “2015Th Eclipse By Svetlana Smelkova” Glasses Necklace

2015 Sterling Silver, Titanium, Steel, Latten, Leather, Plastic Swarovski Crustals, Stoving Enamel

Staring at this world through molecular structure of being, we dive into an imaginary model of our childhood. The time of unconditional happiness where the balloon trips are mundane and common. The time when you can reach your dream and follow it, believing in the necessity of future which is so far away but yet so fascinating. 100

“Scorpio Born”. In Memory Of Zaha Hadid Ring

2017 Acrylic, Sterling Silver, Swarovski Crystals

Element of life. This series of works have been inspired by the architectural bionic woks of Zaha Hadid. Any natural material represents inspiration for all the artists, jewelers, stonecutters and architects of the world. To create the shape, flowing and intertwining lines of works were aligned with architectural elements by Zaha Hadid.

Russia || www.facebook.com/Denis-Sozin-171146449999906 || sozin_denis@mail.ru || +7 9043857955 101

Photo @ Valerie Cheung

“Artistar Jewels should be given credit of having highlighted the artist not simply as a jewellery maker but as a bearer of a message.” Guido Solari Director of the Via Tortona 26 Milan school and the SOA Lab & Factory of Via Savona 20 Milano

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RTISTAR JEWELS CONTEST - 2018 Winners

RTISTAR JEWELS CONTEST was born with the aim of highlighting three artists who have distinguished themselves among the already deserving participants of the 2018 edition. The choice, not easy at all given the high level of the 170 designers and goldsmiths selected by the Artistar Jewels team, was made by a jury of experts, called to evaluate the creations based on creativity, techniques and artistic intention. The authoritative jurors protagonists of the 2018 edition were: Elisabetta Barracchia - Director of Vogue Vanity Fair Accessory, Astrid Berens - director of SIERAAD ART FAIR, Maristella Campi - fashion and costume journalist, Gianni De Liguoro - founding partner and stylist of the famous brand De Liguoro, Dan Piersinaru - director and founder of AUTOR, Irina Slesareva - Director of Jewelery Review Magazine and Creative Director of the Russian Line Jewelery Contest and Guido Solari - founder and owner of Scuola Orafa Ambrosiana in Milan via Savona 20. Each judge individually contributed to the final verdict thanks to his/her professional background, evaluating the creations from an editorial, artistic, communicative and goldsmith’s point of view. The three selected jewels among the 450 creations presented, are: Spade Di Luce by the Italian artist Tiziano Andorno, the Keemin ring signed Venetucci Rosamaria - Formedarte and the Two Rivers creation by the Russian master goldsmith Stanislav Drokin. In addition, a Special Mention was

given directly by Enzo Carbone, founder of Artistar Jewels, to the young English artist Katy Tromans, who was able to merge in her work the mastery of goldsmith techniques and her creativity inspired by the world of fairy tales. The four artists selected thus have the unique opportunity to be present again in the 2019 edition, exhibiting their creations in the show signed by Artistar Jewels and attending this special section of the book, where they present new creations belonging to their latest collection. Tiziano Andorno presents Slip and Boustier, two colliers in 18k gold and diamonds with a provocative and erotic flavour that represent feminine sensuality in all its nuances. Rosamaria Venetucci, on the other hand, proposes two rings with a vintage style and linked to tradition: Resilienza and Vinile, in sterling silver with details in diamonds and precious stones. Decuman Wave and Nest the works of Stanislav Drokin, which stand out for the goldsmith’s skill that the artist demonstrates in the knowledge and setting of the stones. Faithful to her style Katy Tromans, who for the 2019 edition as well, presents two jewels in the jewels: Home Is Where The Bench Is and How To Train A Dragon tell a story, also embellishing the wrapping itself that surrounds the ring, pendant and earrings. This special section wants to pay homage to the four artists who have distinguished themselves the most in the 2018 edition of Artistar Jewels, while waiting to unveil the ones of the 2019 Contest.

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ATY TROMANS is an international award winning jeweller. Her miniature artworks that combine new

technology production methods like CAD design with traditional fairy-tale stories encapsulate wearable jewels within them. A lecturer at the Birmingham City University, School of Jewellery, Katy continues her creative practice alongside lecturing.

How To Train A Dragon Objet de’art - Ring

2018 Sterling Silver, Gold Plating

“This is Berk. It snows nine months of the year, and hails the other three. Any food that grows here is tough and tastless. The people that grow here are even more so. The only upsides are the pets. While other places have ponies or parrots... we have... Dragons.” (How to train a Dragon 2010) 122

Home Is Where The Bench Is Objet de’art - Pendant - Earrings

2018 Sterling Silver, Gold Plating

This piece takes inspiration from Katys life as a jeweller, lecturer and CAD designer. The silver objet de’art portrays the methods used to create the piece, combining CAD technology with traditional bench skills. The piece encompasses some of Katys favourite tools as wearable objects. A golden saw frame pendant and Maun parallel plier earrings.

UK || www.katytromans.weebly.com || katytromans@hotmail.co.uk || +44 7885485953 123

IZIANO ANDORNO art teacher, he graduated in gemmology and applied arts. Since 1983 he has

participated in design, sculpture and engraving-chiselling competitions. He is interested in other materials and the use of new techniques. He also collaborated as artistic director for several companies and in 1991 he founded Extreme Jewels.

Slip Necklace

2017 18Kt Gold, 0.72Ct Colorless Diamonds, 0.20 Ct Natural Black Diamonds, 0.25 Ct Natural Pink Diamond

Magic of seduction, a game of articulations, transformation and colours. This is a piece that discovers the feminine sensuality. Curves, lines, gold, white and black diamonds give birth to the fruit of passion. Its a burlesque jewel....that can choose to expose or to hide.....Two jewels in one creation, left to your own imagination. 128

Boustier Necklace

2017 18Kt Gold, 0.38Ct Colorless Diamonds, 0.61Ct Natural Brown Diamonds

The feminine sinuosity, the beauty and the charm of a female body enclosed in a click, gold and diamonds of different colours to enhance lines and curves. The artist who interprets the woman between mystery and seduction transforming the body and revealing its secrets. A jewel to keep the smile, a jewel a little burlesque.

Italy || www.tizianoandorno.com || info@extremegioielli.it || +39 0131947444 129

Photo @ Assamblage

“When the last tree has been cut down, when the last fish caught and the last river poisoned, only then we will realize that one cannot eat money.” Alanis Obomsawin Canadian Filmmaker

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EMAINS OF THE FEAST

“

REMAINS OF THE FEAST” is an interactive installation signed by Assamblage Association where contemporary jewelry and new media become mirrors of a consumer and waste society. The topic of the project is the legend of King Midas, whose desire to turn everything he touches into gold dooms him. This is perhaps one of the most representative metaphors for contemporary society. Restoring Midas’s mythical table, in a lush, golden setting, we discover what we leave behind a “feast” where we have exhausted all our resources.In a time when fast-fashion has become the world’s second polluting industry after the oil companies, when we spend more money on diets than it would be necessary to feed the entire starving population of the planet and the extinction rate of some species of plants and animals due to human actions exceeds historical records, the exhibition raises questions about responsibility and action. Assamblage - The National Association for Contemporary Jewelry and was launched in May 2015 during Romanian Design Week, as a result of a 7-year project of sustaining, developing and structuring the emerging field of contemporary jewelry. Assamblage is the

main and most active platform in Romania dedicated to the craft and design of jewelry as an independent art form, contributing to the cultural context of the past few years to the increased activity in the field of jewelry in close connection to related fields such as architecture, product design, fashion and visual arts. More at www.assamblage.org “Remains of the feast” will be presented as part of Artistar Jewels between the 19th and 24th of February at the renowed Palazzo Bovara in Milan. Exhibition signed by: Assamblage Association Curator: David Sandu Architect: Alexandra Hoinarescu Photography and multimedia: Mediaholic Studio Display design: Vera Davidescu Exhibiting designers: Andreia Gabriela Popescu, Anca Croitoru, Arina Nitulescu, Anayd Blu by Diana Tobosaru, Temper by Diana Vasile, Gabriel Popa, Gena Tudor, Mihaela Caravan, Miruna Belicovici, Monica Iacovenco, Mihaela Ciocalteu and Razvan Popa.

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ABRIEL POPA graduated in metal sculpture from the National University of Fine Arts in Bucharest.

There, he attended aesthetic and ceramics courses. All these experiences set the ground for him to become an artist and jewellery designer. His work in jewellery creation promotes concepts relevant for contemporary society needs.

Extremities Bracelet

2018 Rhodium Plated 925 Silver, Plastic, Resin

The main core of our civilization is powered by technology and natural resources. But as it can be seen, the development is not equal around the globe. Some countries stepped ahead by taking advantage of these resources. This piece describes the major gap between societies and should raise awareness on morals and social activity. 132

Modern Ruins Bracelet

2018 Sterling Silver

This one of a kind bracelet is part of the “Extremities” jewellery collection and it comes as a conclusion on what will be happening in the close future to our contemporary society if we do not change our irresponsible way of consuming natural resources - as modern ruins besides ancient ones. It promotes awareness on ethics and social activities.

Romania || www.facebook.com/Hemfard.jewellery || hemfard.jewellery@gmail.com || +40 720380297 133

lizabeth Jane Campbell graduated from Edinburgh College of Art in 2013, and then spent a

year as Artist in Residence at Glasgow School of Art before establishing her own studio in Edinburgh. Elizabeth has exhibited across the UK and abroad. Permanent collections include: The National Museum of Scotland, Edinburgh and The Goldsmiths’ Company, London.

Contained Brooch

2018 Sterling Silver, Copper, Vitreous Enamel

This was the first in a series of brooches created for COLLECT, London 2018 where it was exhibited with Craft Scotland. Inspired by imbalance, the brooch depicts the feeling of being constrained as irregular half-spheres are contained within a deconstructed cloisonné circle and bold flame orange enamel. This is Elizabeth’s largest brooch to date. 136

Composed Brooch

2018 Sterling Silver, Copper, Vitreous Enamel, Graphite

This piece was created as part of a series of brooches for COLLECT Inspired by imbalance, the brooch shows layers of circles. The perfect circles are disrupted by graphite inlay, as well as the overlapping of 2D and 3D shapes to create a composed chaos design. Composed uses a cool sapphire blue colour.

UK || www.elizabethjcampbell.co.uk || elizabethjanejewellery@gmail.com || +44 7504985946 137

LAUCO CAMBI is linked to the creative activity of the “Sezione Aurea” laboratory, to the coherent expressive research that, from the jewel to the plastic arts has always supported its experimentation. His production shows the possibilities of a complex art, supported by an inspiration not conditioned by industry choices.

Openclosure #2 Bracelet

2018 Bronze, Silver Rhodium Patinated

The bracelet is a closing matter; formally, it is a symbol of constraint and restriction. Matter and shape adapt to the body, capture it, and encircle the wrist. The metal unravels, it tends until it falls apart. The bracelet also shows that it cannot hold and contain any other metal, liquid metal. 164

Gravity 5 Necklace

2018 Sterling silver, Titanium, Treasury Quartz, Quartz, Churrasco Quartz, Quartz With Hematitis, Hematoid Quartz

It is a staged force of gravity that formally affects the composition; its precariousness extends downwards, touching the rupture. The visual weight of the stones solicits this extension to the limit: the perceptive alteration creates an antithesis between the metal’s rigidity and the plastic fluidity of the composition.

Italy || www.glaucocambi.it || info@glaucocambi.it || +39 0639751300 165

ESSICA PASS, having grown up in England’s Peak District, has always been inspired by the natural world.

She attended Central Saint Martins and the Royal College of Art before launching her brand Jessica Pass London in 2018. Centered around humanity’s natural curiosity her launch collection was inspired by “Curios” and the cabinets that hold them.

Blue Sapphire Cicada Neckpiece Necklace

2017 Sterling Silver, 22Kt Yellow Gold Plate, Sapphires

This work serves as one of two centrepieces to the Curios Collection. The gold cicada sits dramatically across the chest on a torque style necklace. The piece opens up to reveal a blank inside, ready to house the wearers own curio. Made of sterling silver, gold plated and set with irregular cut blue sapphires. 186

Black Ruthenium Cicada Neckpiece Necklace

2017 Sterling Silver, 22Kt Yellow Gold Plate, Black Ruthenium, Golden Beryl

A golden Beryl is set within the arms of a miniature figure inside the piece. This piece was in fact the starting point of the Curios Collection. As a child Jessica imagined pixies and nymphs would fly around on these magnificent insects as their mode of transport. The work is gold plated and finished with black ruthenium.

UK || www.jessicapasslondon.com || info@jessicapasslondon.com || +44 2077364562 187

atharina KrauS is a fine jewellery designer and maker, offering a unique perspective on

contemporary craftsmanship by combining traditional techniques with innovative design and gemstone carving. She holds a master craftsman certificate in jewellery and silversmithing and recently graduated with distinction from the Central St. Martins University in London.

Nexus Ring Ring

2018 Sterling Silver, 18Kt Yellow Gold Plating, Grey Agate, Tourmaline

This ring explores natural light reflections in gemstones by placing different colours and light reflexion styles in juxtaposition with each other. The golden light reflexions in the carved stones contrast with the precise visual effects of the regularly cut gems. It is made with translucent agate with green tourmaline. 204

Clarity Ring Ring

2018 Sterling Silver, 18Kt Yellow Gold Plating, Prasolith

The piece explores the relationship between idea, design, maker and material. It visually refers to the angled lines found in the architecture of cityscapes. The ring showcases the way natural light is reflected in a gemstone by creating visual effects that move and change when worn. Depth and colour are key aspects of the design.

Germany || www.kathykraus.com || hello@kathykraus.com || +49 892013752 205

ARA MADER, from Brasil, became interested in jewelry when she started thinking how to improve the

bijoux she worked with as a child. Her works reflect a playful universe, in which nature’s elements are always present. For eight years, she has created and has managed Joyá - a store where she presents and sells jewelry from Brazilian designers as pieces of art.

Charlotte Ring

2014 Sterling Silver, Black Rhodium Plating, 18Kt Rose Gold Plating, Blue Saphires

You could say this is a heavy piece! The Charlotte ring is one of the designer’s most daring creations. The female hippopotamus contrasts with the delicate details of maxi jewel. Its voluminous structure, made of silver, is harmonised by a graceful rose gold bow and small blue sapphire eyes. Who could resist this look? 208

Alika Bakhita Ring

2016 Sterling Silver, 18Kt Yellow Gold Plating, Tsavorites

Giraffes walk in groups of at least three. For this reason, the Alika collection, which means “most beautiful”, is composed of three pieces: the Bakhita (lucky), the Badu (powerful) and the Kito (precious). The designer has created fun accessories that highlight the individuality of each wearer. Bakhita wears 18K yellow gold glasses.

Brazil || www.laramader.com.br || contato@laramader.com.br || +55 21999177175 209

AURA FORTE is an Italian goldsmith artist. Her studies focus mainly on jewelry design. She attended several

specialized schools in the sector. In 2005 she opened a studio in her hometown, approaching contemporary art, a new world that inspired her and made her more creative. She now defines her works as timeless, a dialogue and a search for herself.

Radiant Solitary Hand Bracelet

2018 Sterling Silver, Cubic Zirconia

Laura’s goal is to investigate jewels as an art form, a visual expression. Her studies focus on be-tween matter and emptiness. Elements that come together give birth to wearable artworks. Made of satin silver and cubic zirconia, the classic solitary becomes a hand bracelet. Objects that acquire materialization of a timeless time. 214

Radiant Trilogy Ring

2018 Sterling Silver, Cubic Zirconia

Being an alternative jewel like a “radiant trilogy”, this piece can find its place as an artistic performance. A ring made of satin silver and cubic zirconia that becomes large. The Radiant collection describes the evolution of jewels that become precious objects as artistic works. It’s a fusion of new form of expression.

Italy || www.lauraforte.it || laurafortegioielli@gmail.com || +39 3287525090 215

ETIZIA MAGGIO, after graduation, has attended ceramics and metalsmithing courses with renowned

Italian and international artists, thus building and enriching her skills as a jewelry designer. Everything she has learned has been turned into experimentation and research with the materials and techniques of contemporary jewellery. Her works combine painting, sculpture and installative language.

Forget Me (K)Not Necklace - Brooches

2018 Textile, Japanese Silk, Yellow Gold

The lightness and sinuosity of the textile element interact with the geometrical sleekness of the silver brooches that decorate it, creating intriguing, sophisticated volumes. Red silk threads are tied up at some point as to remind us of the significance of memories, whose preciousness is symbolized by a tiny yellow gold element. 216

Miracle Booster Ring

2018 Sterling Silver, Mosaic Discarded Vitreous Tiles

This jewel was born from the artist’s research on new ways and techniques of using metals in combination with glass. This ring is meant to be a talisman of our times, a multiplier of good energies and small daily miracles. Unique piece,it’s made of silver and discarded mosaic tiles.

Italy || www.instagram.com/letiziamaggiojewelry || letizia_maggio@virgilio.it || +39 3333444642 217

ucia Petracca and Alessandra Mazzeo respectively a designer creator of

the NAOS studio, of the ISHTAR gallery, of furnishing accessories and sculptures, and a biologist and inventor of the US7510687 patent, translated the forms of the patent into jewellery creations, creating the PIN-DEVICE pieces.

Pin-Device Anello Ring

2018 Gold, Ruby, Blue Quartz, Amethyst Quartz, Onyx, White, Green, Pink Agate

Ring with a strong character, immediately recognizable by the shape of the US7510687 patent: the algid geometry of the two-dimensional laser-cut metal surfaces is enhanced by the threedimensionality of the different PIN that stand out orthogonally to the bases. The interchangeability of the PIN gives flexibility and a customized effect. 228

Pin-Device Bracciale Bracelet

2018 Gold, Ruby, Blue Quartz, Amethyst Quartz, Onyx, White Agate, Green Agate, Pink Agate

The shape taken from the US7510687 patent gives the jewel a strong character, enhanced by the algid geometry of the two-dimensional laser-cut metal surfaces. The threedimensionality of this impressive jewel is given by the insertion of different and interchangeable PIN, that make this piece customizable.

Italy || www.facebook.com/Pin-device-2105734456421246 || lucia.petracca04@libero.it || +39 3393791686 229

Photo @ Ute Decker

“I see jewellery as a medium to tell a story to express that ethics and aesthetics can be combined to create a beautiful object with a deeper meaning.” Ute Decker Jewellery Artist

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PECIAL CONTENT

RTISTAR JEWELS is pleased to present, within this special section of the book, the works of established international artists of the contemporary jewellery scene, who have been able to emerge thanks to their talent and their mastery. This collaboration with leading artists in the sector, enhances even more the cultural and artistic heritage of the project, emphasizing the importance and the desire to give the right emphasis to the most esteemed protagonists of international jewellery. The special contents of the 2019 edition therefore want to be a tribute to contemporary jewellery, with the future promise that all the artists involved in the annual project can be supported by international critics and by the most prestigious galleries around the world. Over the years, Artistar Jewels has collaborated with renowned and critically acclaimed artists such as Gillo Dorfles, Philip Sajet, Yoko Ono, Paul Bury and GianCarlo Montebello. For the 2019 edition the Guest Artists presented through the project are the Italian painter Turi Simeti, one of the most representative exponents of contemporary Italian art, the German goldsmith based in London Ute Decker and finally Christophe Burger, French artist awarded by Le Center Européen d’Actions Artistiques Contemporaines. Although differentiated in the favourite goldsmith technique, artistic movement and message, these three exponents of international contemporary jewellery boast a career of successes, consolidated by the awards

obtained over the years and by the critically acclaimed awards. The Victoria and Albert Museum, the Swiss National Museum, the Hangaram Design Museum at the Seoul Arts Center and the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris are just some of the authoritative venues that hosted our Guest Artist 2019 exhibitions. Innovators not only from an artistic point of view but also technical: Ute Decker has in fact created a new innovative method of processing and twisting gold and silver, thus creating creations of “poetic geometry”. These artists do not simply represent an institution in the art world, but have personally contributed to the diffusion of the artistic jewel. Burger is in fact the co-founder of Aspects, a group of designers who exhibited a their creations for the first time at the Basel International Jewellery Fair. These artist, stand out not only as great goldsmith, but also in other fields of art. Turi Simeti, symbolize the polyhedral personality of the artist, ranging in all the nuances of art. He is indeed, one of the most appreciated and quoted contemporary Italian artists, known across the world for his 1960s outbursts. In this special section, Artistar Jewels pays homage to the life and works of this three important personalities, with the future hope that all the artists involved in the 2019 edition, as well as the six previous editions, embark on an international career studded with prizes and awards, but above all that they manage to reach the heart of an always wider audience.

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Pendant « X » (small)

HRISTOPHE BURGER is a jewellery

designer and artist born in 1950 in Colmar, France. After an M.A. in English Linguistics he studied Jewellery Design at the Ecole des Arts Décoratifs in Strasbourg. He then opened his studiogallery in the old city of Colmar and in 1994 moved his studio, Atelier Christophe Burger, two doors up in the same street. Later he opened the Christophe Burger Gallery, organizing shows dedicated to jewellery artists some of whom were showing for the first time in France. Christophe is the co-founder of Aspects, an international group of designers that exhibited at the Basel International Jewellery Fair (1980-93). He has also been a free-lance designer for the Finnish company Lapponia and the cofounder and vice-president of the French association Corpus, within which he conducts research on a more theoretical level about the specificity of contemporary jewellery. He designs and makes his jewellery pieces on a one of a kind basis, some small series, objects, wall compositions and installations. In 2017 he participated in the international Medusa show at the Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris. One of his pieces belongs now to the permanent collections of the Arts Décoratifs in Paris.

When worn the pendant appears as a simple dark matt circle. The wearer can reveal two things: the fact that the letter «X» appears but also that the image of the letter is not fixed, and that, its reflection kind of doubles its image. Translucency suggests and obliges the observer to wonder, take time to think over what (s)he sees.

Pendant « X » (large) « X » has a special meaning for the artist, because it’s a trace and a sign. It’s one of the most primary gestures invented by men to communicate. The large glass has been painted making the « X » visible only if the wearer helps the observer seeing it. This implies a specific relation between the wearer and the observer.

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Ring Traces Indian Ink is used in this piece in a random graphic way and the presence of fingerprints symbolize the hand of the wearer that recreates an almost forgotten context of gestures and materials: ink, handwriting, stains. The movements of the hand and fingers enable the light and shadow to affect the ink pattern.

Mediterranée This creation must be worn across one shoulder. Linking the cool white colour of matt silver and the warmth of the gold-leaf, introducing a middle part which brings a third transitional step. The simplicity of the two overlapping circles is completed with the loose cables, as many punctuations on the back and chest of the wearer.

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The Curling Crest Of A Wave

TE DECKER is best known for her minimalist

yet bold sculptural pieces. Her award-winning work is exhibited internationally and found in notable private and public collections including the Victoria & Albert Museum, Swiss National Museum, Musée Barbier-Mueller and the Spencer Museum of Art. Decker has created an innovative method of sculpting, bending, and twisting gold and silver into expressive threedimensional “geometric poetry”. Playing with volume, empty space and movement until the choreography of the architectural lines and the dynamic curvatures are distilled into evocative sculptures. Her unique and limited edition pieces are as engaging worn on the body as they are displayed on a plinth. Each of her wearable sculptures is a conversation piece and storyteller - the minimalist, clean and pure lines reflect the purity of provenance of the materials used. As a political economist-turnedjournalist-turned-jeweller, Ute Decker is a pioneer of the international ethical jewellery movement and one of the first, worldwide, to create a collection in Fairtrade Gold. With the aim of raising awareness, sharing best practice and opening up opportunities to facilitate change, Ute Decker started an online directory which soon became the most comprehensive resource globally with practical information on ethical jewellery practices.

Balance through asymmetry and irregularity is an important aspect in Decker’s work. Objects may appear to be simple yet subtle details, such as texture, colour, line, shape, light, shadows and space are used to balance simplicity with complexity to create an evocative sense of space and dynamic movement.

Orbit This is one of Decker’s signature works. Orbit is a sculpture that transforms into a wearable piece of art on the body. It can be worn in many different configurations. The wearer can choose where to enter the arm which will determine the shape of the overall piece - becoming hence a unique and almost participatory artwork.

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Waves Forms take shape through experimental maquettes which are then worn by the artist for days all the while adjusting the piece. This stage of refinement is a vital element, giving the sculptures such surprising wearability and perfect balance on the body. The final pieces are then composed in spontaneous free flowing movements imbuing them with a rich expressiveness, spontaneity and liveliness.

Spiral Over 3 meters of recycled silver have been coiled in one movement to create this neck sculpture. Typical of the artist’s work, the wearer has agency with many choices how to wear the piece. Combining the political with the poetic in her practice, the archaic form of the spiral found across millennia and cultures is used here as a powerful allegory of our common humanity.

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Ring Oval In Burnished Silver

URI SIMETI unveiled his monochromatic

ellipses in several exhibitions from 1963 which were part of the ZERO and New Tendencies movement. His participation in the “ZERO Avantgarde” project, which made its debut in 1965 in Lucio Fontana’s studio in Milan, played an even greater role in featuring Simeti’s work as part of this specific scenario. In 1965, after moving to Milan, Simeti held his first solo exhibition in the Wulfengasse Gallery in Klagenfurt. Between 1966 and 1969, he was invited in Residence by the Fairleigh Dickinson University and he set up his studio in New York. During these years, Simeti’s work was to shapeup mainly as consequential research, in the transition from single elements to diptychs and polyptychs with a projecting element, often decentralized, and with an experimentation of different formats and outlines, reaching effects of greater spatial complexity during the Eighties. After years of intense work on an international level, he came back to Italy with a solo show presented at the Vismara Gallery in Milan. His works were exhibited alongside Castellani, Bonalumi and others in exhibitions such as “The Extroflexed Canvas in the Milanese Area from 1958 until Today” at the Arte Struktura Gallery in 1989 and “‘58-‘80 Bonalumi - Castellani - Simeti: Three Itineraries”. Simeti currently lives and works in Milan.

This ring has been inspired by a master’s work made on canvas, representing one oval in the centre of a square canvas. The ring is made of sterling silver with a black rhodium bath, entirely handcrafted by hand, with fusions on the sides, which allow the square above to be empty inside, to limit its weight and promote wearability.

Earrings Square In Burnished Silver These are taken from the same work of the master, with an oval in the centre of a square canvas. Made of 925 silver with black rhodium bath, entirely handcrafted by hand, one by one, with fusions on the sides, which allow to limit the weight, being empty inside, and therefore to facilitate the portability and the ergonomics.

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Bracelet Curve In Silver Bracelet drawn from one of the master’s work, featuring 3 small ovals in a row in the lower part, mounted on a curved canvas. The bracelet is made of rhodium plated sterling silver, entirely handcrafted, with fusions on the sides, which allow the curved element to be empty inside, to contain its weight and promote wearability.

Necklace Curve In Silver This pendant is also inspired by one of the master’s work, that represents 3 small ovals in a row on the bottom of the curved canvas. The jewel is also entirely handcrafted by hand, with fusions on the sides, which allow the curved element to be empty inside, to contain its weight and therefore facilitate its portability.

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ay Gañán paints jewels, writes photos and draws poems. She expresses herself through stories

underwritten on jewels. Her pieces dive into emotions; they explore the depths of soul and memory. Tactile feelings on volume going from subtle to categorical, since among these extremes, life takes place. Vogue award winning artist at Artistar Jewels 2018.

Bubbles. The Big Dive. Zoom Out Necklace

2018 Sari Silk, Sterling Silver, Ink, Watercolor, Resin

The drawing shows a woman leaping naked into the ocean, like traditional Japanese pearls’ seekers. The bubbles comes from her immersion. Her hunt is revealed on the back of her hand: a piece of jet from cretaceous period. “The big dive” is that, a jump into the depths of our souls in search of memories, the essence of what we are all made of. 264

Bubbles. The Big Dive. Zoom In Bracelet

2018 Sari Silk, Sterling Silver, Ink, Watercolor, Resin

It’s not by accident this piece has to be worn on the arm, as the arm is the whole engine of the diver’s stroke. These bubble drawings zoom into fragments of her face: her eyes, her lips, her shoulder and chin. The cuff is a talisman and a metaphor of each move. The hands reach forward, but it’s the eye that makes the discovery.

Spain || www.mayganan.com || masqmay@gmail.com || +34 651161171 265

ICHELLE LUNG is a London born and based contemporary jewellery artist that was awarded the Annoushka Graduate award for her BA Jewellery Design graduate collection at Central Saint Martins. Her pieces explore the untouchability of our digital data whilst questioning traditional ideas of preciousness, value and materiality within jewellery.

Chain_01.Jwl Necklace

2018 Clear Acrylic, Brass

This piece represents the dip between reality and virtual reality. The image of floating chain links within the layers of laser cut clear plastic is actually an illusion made up of negative space, as seen when the image vanishes from the side. The piece is wearable from the concealed catch at the top of the graduated solid brass chains. 270

Rope_01.Jwl Necklace

2018 Clear Acrylic, Cotton Rope

This piece shows a false illusion of a knotted rope suspended within the clear acrylic layers that is completely made of negative space. This blends into a real cotton rope to be worn around the neck. The combination of real rope and false image of the rope refers to our value placed on real materiality and our untouchable digital data.

UK || www.michellelung2008.wixsite.com/home || michellelung2008@hotmail.com || +44 7401240237 271

ona Tabbicca , with a previous career as a Financial Accountant, transversed in the contemporary jewelry field following her creativity. With a BA(Hons) in Silversmithing, Goldsmithing and Jewellery from the University for the Creative Arts, her works are timeless pieces that make a contemporary statement design-wise evoking confidence and individuality.

Elemental Proximity 1.1 Ring

2016 Wood, Brass, Perspex

Sculptural ring in indigo-stained wood, Brass inserts and Perspex ends; it represents balance and support, taken from the man’s ability to carry additional weight that juxtaposes to the natural rhythm of the body. It invites the question of volume, spatial awareness, material preciousness whilst raising juxtaposing issues of an ongoing dialogue. 298

Elemental Proximity 1.2 Ring

2016 Walnut, Brass, Perspex

This piece arouses ongoing dialogue on volume, spatial awareness, and material preciousness. The ring is realized in Walnut wood, with Brass inserts and Perspex ends. Being part of the Elemental Proximity collection, the piece portrays the balance and support juxtaposed to the natural rhythm of the body.

UK || www.instagram.com/metcreatives || metcreatives@gmail.com || +44 7956572756 299

ATALIA VOROKHINA is a MA student at the Moscow State Stroganov Academy of Design and

Applied Arts at the Art Metal Department under Vlad Glynin. She participated and won in numerous exhibition competitions worldwide. The jewelry construction set “Alchemy: A Model Kit” is a joint project of the artist and Cultured gallery which comprises 62 details.

Object N°2 Ring

2018 Bronze, White Rhodium, Nanosital

The world is ever-shifting and changing and every person in it is a kaleidoscope of characteristics, talents, interests, and emotions. It’s almost impossible to gather all the fragments of truth together and to understand life in its integrity. The ancient art of finding perfection is called alchemy, that leads always to the enlightenment. 318

Object N°14 Ring

2018 Bronze, White Rhodium, Nanosital

The object resembles a sacred place of worship full of mystery and treasure - an enigmatic space where magic and alchemy abound. It is a little wonder created by inspiration, now inspiring to create. This artifact appeals to eternal human desire to find an ideal by discovering the right combination of elements.

Russia || www.instagram.com/nataliavorohina || nat19470796@yandex.ru 319

AYIBE WARCHAUSKY, architect and jeweler who studied at IED Milano, Italy. Venezuelan of

Russians origins, she revitalizes notions of constructivism, inspired by the architectural movement. With a flare for unconventional materials, Warchausky gives new value to the crystal, making it luxurious through its modern cure.

Scaglie Caviar Ring

2017 Murano Crystal, 18Kt Yellow Gold

Created through a process of melting and cooling mixtures of silicates, resulting into an optical view of the crystal with tridimensional facets. Hand modeled and sculpturally carved in the Murano island and combining millenary techniques with the modern technology of fusion and crystal cut. Finished with crystal gold caviar and 18k gold parts. 320

Deconstructed Universe Ring

2018 Murano Crystal, 18Kt Rose Gold, 18Kt Yellow Gold, Lapislazuli

Murano Crystal, for a flawless balance between matter and form. Handmade and unique, this represents the savoir-faire of a place where craftmanship and modernity are mixed. Jewels are architectural, modeled as micro-sculptures, full of simmetry in their polydimensional facets, embellished with rose and yellow 18k gold and lapislazuli parts.

Venezuela || www.nwarcausky.com || info@nwarchausky.com || +58 4144188376 321

ITA ANGELETTI is a graduate of the Drama Division of the Juilliard School in New York City. She began

her artistic journey as an actress. Her passion and need to create beautiful things pulled her to make one of a kind Art Doll Figures and Wearable Art. Her whimsical neckpieces now take center stage and reflect her intention to give JOY.

Doll Legs Necklace

2018 Mixed Media

Vintage doll legs are adorned with a playful fabric orchestration of layered whimsy. The juxtaposition of the textiles and trim inspire each other during this layering process until it is fully realized. Fabric creates shadows and highlights as pigment. This lighthearted piece radiates distinctive style and transforms jewelry into art. 326

Butterfly Necklace

2018 Mixed Media

A masked face is surrounded by wings. The use of color, texture and textiles inspire and dominate the jewel. Nita is enchanted by different placements of color and materials and also has a fascination with things that fly. The goal is to create a kaleidoscopic arrangement of beads, feathers, rhinestones and surprises within the shape.

USA || www.nitaangeletti.com || nangeletti@nyc.rr.com || +1 6462484790 327

FFICINACENTOUNO is the label founded by Elena Orrù and Marco Gariglio. Both born in the province

of Turin 38 and 39 years ago. He is the creative part of the couple, she is the rational part. They are a couple in life as well: confrontation and colliding is their usual routine. The eco-friendly company wants to stand out from the mass market.

Gold Write Bracelet

2018 Sterling Silver, Yellow Gold Electroplating Bath, Used Goodyear Transmission Belt

To create this eco-jewel they have combined the preciousness and refinement of a semi-rigid bracelet, in 925 silver with a gold finish, with an unconventional and original element, such as the Goodyear transmission belt. This is how an innovative and futuristic jewel was born. One of a kind piece. 328

Gold Rail Bracelet

2018 Sterling Silver, Yellow Gold Electroplating Bath, Used Service Belt

After creating a semi-rigid bracelet with a 925 silver core with finish in satin yellow gold, the artists then applied an unconventional and original element, such as the used service belt. So a precious and out of the box jewel is born, using noble material combined with a recovery one. They realize innovative and contemporary eco-jewels.

Italy || www.officinacentouno.it || info@officinacentouno.it || +39 3382599153 329

AULA GUZMÁN studied design in Mexico and Italy. She has already exhibited in Buenos Aires, Shanghai,

Santiago, Berlin, Helsinki, Rome and Mexico, among others. Her work have been featured in publications in Mexico, Hong Kong, Tokio and other European countries. She has received fashion and jewelry awards in Mexico, Europe, Tahiti, Hong Kong and Shanghai.

Out Of The Eggshell Ring

2017 Sterling Silver, Akoya Genuine Pearl, Gold Plated, White, Black Rhodium Plating

Anything can come out from an egg. A palace that daces. A lake with nacre swans. Clouds that make music. From that egg you can get another egg, and from the other egg you can get a mirror and from the mirror you can get a face that smiles, that welcomes you. This ring invites you to show who you really are, fearless to get out of the shell. 338

La Cierva Necklace

2015 Sterling Silver, Enamel, Black Rhodium Plating, Gold Plating, Black Clay

“Make me a fear deer that makes me laugh, a wardrobe to keep colors, a pain painted like bugambilias. Make me a little monkey that sings me songs, wings to hug and feet to land. Make ma a country that never forgives me”. Frida Kahlo, one of the greatest female Mexican artist, inspired Paula with the strength and the pain in her paintings.

Mexico || www.paulaguzman.com || info@paulaguzman.com || +52 3338255057 339

ETRA MOHYLOVA is self-taught. Common and ubiquitous shapes and objects inspire her work. Her unique pieces are held in private collections in the USA, United Kingdom, Israel, Portugal and Czech Republic. She won the Grand Jury Award, International Triennial of Glass and Jewelry, Jablonec Nad Nisou and the Guest of Honour at FORMA Biennale in Bratislava.

Heart (Of An Innocent Love) Brooch

2018 Copper, Brass, Cold Enamel

From the INSIDE OR OUT? Collection that connects and further explores the artist’s previous research into perceptions and universal symbolic terminology. The collection deconstructs the form of our own bodies and their inner workings and turns them into ornamental reflections of our own selves. What is Love? What is Innocence? 342

Stomach (Of A Vegetarian) Brooch

2018 Copper, Brass, Cold Enamel

This particular piece comes from the INSIDE OR OUT? collection. The artist’s goal is to push further the specific form of a brooch, in content, function and presentation. Through basic colours and simplified shapes conveying the feeling of graphic prints, she explores the relationship between jewellery and the interdisciplinary edge of other visual art forms.

Czech Republic || www.petramohylova.com || petramohylova@hotmail.com 343

AQUEL BESSUDO, Mexican jewellery artist with a BA in fine arts, has been working with metals since 2001 and have previously exhibited her creations in Mexico, Argentina, Chile, France and USA. Her works have been also published in “The Jewelry Book”. In 2018 she received a special mention from the jury of the II Latin American biennale.

Memory Of A Day VI Brooch

2017 Iron, Powder Coating, Textile, Polyester Treads, Cooper

This piece is part of a series that the artist has approached through drawings, evoking memories. She then reconstructed those drawings with metal wire and embroidery, searching for a new relationship within the images of the places that were captured in her memories. Drawings have thus been translated into wearable objects. 354

Paths 6 Brooch

2018 Textile, Acrylic Paint, Polyester Thread, Sterling Silver, Stainless Steel

The artist thinks about walking as a continuous act of mark making, and that with its reoccurrence these marks have deepened throughout time, becoming paths for communication, interaction and separation as well. She used a segment of a path and when translated to the piece she tried to communicate the relation between space and direction.

Mexico || www.raquelbessudo.com || raquelbessudo@gmail.com || +52 15551070205 355

EBEKAH WILSON is an Irish native and recent Ulster University graduate with a First class honours

in Ceramics, Jewellery & Silversmithing. As a self-proclaimed material alchemist, Rebekah’s work is a funky fusion of texture and colour. She’s heavily inspired by her passion for material exploration and love of all things bold and bright!

Urchin Brooch Brooch

2018 Slime, Latex, Epoxy Resin, Acrylic Paint, Powder Pigments, Polystyrene, Wood, Silver Plated Metal, Nickel Plated Metal

With a focus on the process rather than the design, this funny little piece of jewellery was born as the result of making through spontaneous, experimental play. Made from a base of polystyrene and coated in layers of latex, slime and resin, this piece, alien in appearance, looks almost as though it has taken on a life of its own. 356

Knocker Pendant Necklace

2018 Slime, Epoxy Resin, Light Putty, Wood, Polystyrene, Powder Pigments, Nylon Cord

This piece demonstrates that by repeatedly pulling and stretching slime, intricate layers and fine lines are formed creating a soft, delicate ribboning effect. Made with a lightweight wooden base for stability, slime and light putty combined for a thicker consistency, and a thin resin coating for added strength, weather resistance and shine.

UK || www.rebekah-wilson.com || rebekahwilsonartist@hotmail.com || +44 7452993381 357

Photo @ Galeria Galateca

“We believe jewellery is beyond being the decorative element on our body. It is an extension of the creator and wearer’s expressions, feelings, thoughts and attitude. Contemporary jewellery shows what matters to today’s people.” Anna Cheng Owner of Ame Gallery

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RTISTAR NETWORK

RTISTAR JEWELS has actively involved for years the most important representative of the contemporary jewellery world, a real growing phenomenon that is now known even among the nonprofessionals, attracting always more and more enthusiasts. Despite the presence in Milan through the exhibition during Fashion Week, Artistar Jewels has in fact always shown the will to establish itself internationally, actively involving the foreign press and buyers from all over the world. In fact, until 2018 the participants had the opportunity to exhibit their works in European contemporary jewellery galleries, through a traveling exhibition of 30 selected creations. The seventh edition marks an important turning point in the project: the creation of the Artistar Network. Through partnerships and synergies created with the most important players in the sector, Artistar Jewels collaborates with concept stores and international jewellery galleries, which have the task of selecting at least one artist participating in the 2019 edition, representing the chosen artists in the their stores located all over the world. Artistar Network represents the chance of a real collaboration for the artists, allowing them to expand their business, exporting their brand to cities they could have only imagined. These wearable artworks carry their own story and their own magic, bewitching and enchanting the final buyer, who thus has the unique opportunity to touch the creations of the artist. In addition to being physical stores, the

galleries that are part of the Artistar Network represent a real institution in the contemporary jewellery world, thus giving further prestige to the portfolio of the artists who will have the opportunity to exhibit their creations with them. This special section of the book is intended as a journey through the five continents, which accompany the reader among the leading galleries of the Artistar Jewels Network. The Italian selected galleries for the 2019 edition are Creativity Oggetti - Turin (Italy), already present in the annals of Artistar Jewels, to which is added 158 Studio - Sorrento (Italy), located in one of the most iconic region of our peninsula, the Amalfi Coast. Cross the national borders the Galateca Galeria - Bucharest (Romania), Galerie Beyond - Antwerpen (Belgium) and Galeria Yes - Poznan (Poland), three prestigious galleries that boast established artists among their collections. Eleni Marneri Galerie - Athens (Greece), among the protagonist of the travelling exhibition of 2018 returns, that together with Galerie Elsa Vanier - Paris (France), Upper Concept Store - Paris (France), CBijoux - Monthey (Switzerland), Galeria Tereza Seabra - Lisbon (Portugal) and 39A Concept Store - Lisbon (Portugal) establish the Artistar Jewels’ presence in the major European capitals. Beyond the European borders the Bini Gallery - Melbourne (Australia), Alice Floriano - Porto Alegre (Brazil) and Ame Gallery - Hong Kong. Artistar Jewel’s goals is to expand the Network even more, in order to grant an always greater visibility to all the artists who rely on the project.

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www.alicefloriano.com

LICE FLORIANO - Brasil

LICE FLORIANO GALLERY opened on September 24th, 2015 in the city of Porto Alegre, Brazil. The aim of the gallery is to promote contemporary jewellery as an artistic movement and cultural expression. Alice Floriano represents established artists and new talents of the world scene, giving space and visibility to those who are at the beginning of their career but already shows consistent works. In 2017 a new six-month experimental temporary space was inaugurated in São Paulo. In the first open call there were more than 200 entries from which the gallery selected 30 new jewellers to compose the exhibition. The aim of the gallery

+55 51 33775879 galeriaalicefloriano@gmail.com

is to increase the opportunities of public access to this extraordinary portable art still not very widespread. Since 2018, the gallery acts in a punctual and itinerant way in the capital of São Paulo and in other Brazilian cities, organizing important event such as the exhibition The Television Necklace by Lisa Walker that took place in September 2018. Bimonthly a new exhibition is inaugurated rotating individual and collective exhibitions. Alice Floriano Gallery seeks to find the coherence between the concept, the technique used and the final result of each project. Today it represents about 50 artists, and it constantly selects new names to be part of the catalogue. 372

www. ame-gallery.com

ME GALLERY - Hong Kong

ME GALLERY introduces contemporary fine jewellery from worldwide artists. It was founded by former interior architect Anna Cheng. Coming from a family of two generations of jewellers, Anna has previously worked for luxury brands including Louis Vuitton, Hermès and Valentino before pursuing her passion for jewellery. The Gallery’s missions are to raise awareness of contemporary jewellery, widen the audience base and facilitate a healthy eco-system of this specialized art form. It also strives to raise recognition of Hong Kong’s contemporary jewellery in the international community. “AME” came from the Latin word which means love and soul. The name

+852 35648066 info@ame-gallery.com

is a perfect ensemble of the curator’s feeling towards exquisite jewellery and how they can percuss one’s emotion. Each piece of jewellery is displayed as wearable art. Anna believes jewellery is more than just decorative element on our body. It is an extension of the creator and wearer’s expressions, feelings, thoughts and attitude. Contemporary jewellery shows what matters to today’s people. The Gallery works with a diverse range of local and international artists who use different approaches to present contemporary jewellery as a new form of art. The jewels reflects the unique style and personality of each artist, they are the representation of the artists’ heart and soul. 373

www.binigallery.com.au + 61 402852275

INI GALLERY - Australia

binigallery@binigallery.com.au

LORENZA BINI is the founder of Bini Gallery Contemporary Jewellery in Collingwood, one of the most artistically vibrant Melbourne’s area. She moved to Australia in 2005 from Italy where she studied History of Art at the University of Bologna. Always passionate about jewellery, she opened her gallery in 2010 and features contemporary jewellery out of the ordinary. Bini represents local and international talented jewellers, both young and established, placing great emphasis on the use of materials, artisanal rare skills and innovation. Lorenza is fascinated by the beauty that can arise from unexpected. All the works exhibited at Bini are handmade and produced in limited editions.

Lorenza’s interest also focuses on gold and silver since she met Alberta Vita, member of the Contemporary Jewellery School of Padua and Giampaolo Babetto, internationally renowned goldsmith and master of the Padua school. Bini Gallery organises solo and group exhibitions to introduce to the Australian audience the work of international and local jewellery makers coming from different backgrounds and countries. Lorenza has also curated jewellery exhibitions in collaboration with the Italian General Consulate hosted at the Melbourne Italian Cultural Institute. “Embracing the potential of alternative materials and techniques in jewellery making” is her motto.

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www.elsa-vanier.fr

ALERIE ELSA VANIER - France

ALERIE ELSA VANIER, created in 2003, moved in 2016 to the lovely Rue de l’Odéon in the 6th Arrondissement of Paris. It showcases contemporary jewelry designers whose unique talent gives pride of place to rare, precious or fascinating materials. When Elsa was a student, she was walking past the window of the jeweler Jean Vendome, and she was enchanted by a necklace. Alongside a career in finance, she explored the world of contemporary designers. She began to meet them and took classes in gemology. “I wanted to understand their world better, while wondering how to promote them,” she says. “The result was this gallery now celebrating its

+33 147030500 galerie@elsa-vanier.fr

15th anniversary.” The designers of the gallery are selected for the emotional charge in their works, their originality, creativity and quality of workmanship. Some of their jewelry artists submit a fascinating response to the question regarding the role of jewelry, its relationship to the body, its psychological impact or what it says of the wearer. The gallery is an “openhouse” where the visitor can freely choose a piece of jewelry from the collections of designers from around the world and meet the artists at exhibition openings. Every year, the Gallery organizes 3 to 4 exhibitions focused on the work of one designer or theme-based, to showcase the works of several artists. 382

ARAH CHRISTIAN ’s inspiration is found in the unnoticed and forgotten aspects of the urban environment,

and is expressed through scaffito on enamel. Textures left behind on surfaces makes Sarah think about the people who have left their impressions on surroundings in the past, and how we can leave impressions for others in the future.

Munitions Brooch 1 Brooch

2018 Steel, Liquid Enamel, Silver, Brass Rivets

This piece is inspired by a World War 1 and World War 2 munitions factory that contains the forgotten history of the women who worked there, and the textures that have been left behind. Dents in the floors and the architecture of the buildings are left behind help to inspire the textures that are imprinted onto the surface of the enamel. 404

Munitions Brooch 2 Brooch

2018 Steel, Liquid Enamel, Silver, Brass Rivets

This piece replicates the textures of some buildings including the corrugated metal. It looks at the scratches and the dents in the floor left behind from the machines and the shell cases that used to sit in these factories. The enamel has been slightly sanded to remind the viewer and wearer to think of the history it has been inspired by.

UK || www.sarahchristianjewellery.com || sarah@sarahchristianjewellery.com || +44 7426317842 405

OWON JOO was born and raised in Seoul, Korea. She achieved BFA from Seoul National University. and

MFA from RIT in the USA. She also extended her study in sculpture at Cornell University. She has been working in metalsmith areas including jewelry, silverware and sculpture for over 20 years. Today she runs Sowon Joo Studio in Korea.

Heart Necklace

2018 18Kt Gold, Rutilated Quartz

This alluring necklace is made with crochet technique with gold wire. Its standout style is more defined with its “heart” shape when it is observed from the front. It is designed to rest smoothly on the body curves. The centre stone is a Rutilated quartz filled with beautiful pattern of rutile inclusions, enhancing glitter. 420

Blossom Ring

2018 18Kt Gold, Diamonds, Rough Diamond Beads

This one of a kind ring is made with crochet technique. Wearing it, it embellishes your hand like a little flowers bouquet. For the artist, the many sided stretching metal wires symbolize sprouts from gathered flower buds, and the diamond complements an impression of shining morning dew on the buds.

South Korea || www.sowonjoostudio.com || joosowon@hotmail.com || +82 1030532707 421

UI LING WANG is a jewellery designer Head at STS Gems Ltd. where she builds a team on jewellery design

for the UK and US market. She has worked in the fashion, fine and contemporary jewellery industry for 7 years. She received her contemporary jewellery MA from the University for The Creative Arts and Metalsmith BA from the National Hsinchu University of Education.

Haptic Experience-Choker Necklace

2016 Acrylic, Glue, Pigment, PVC Tube

Haptic feedbacks are crucial for our like and they play a key role in the ocular-centric society. Mostly, there is a lack of interest in tactility because haptic experience if often fused and integrated into the visual experience, thus creating memories. The artist raises public touch awareness through daily object. 430

Haptic Experience-Ring Ring

2016 Acrylic, Glue, Pigment, PVC Tube

“Touch is the sensory mode that integrates our experience of the world and ourselves.” (Pallasmaa, 2009) The haptic experience gives human a tactile attention in this distractive world. Building a world between human and the space of object to concentrate and refeel tactile with active touch to the new haptic experience.

Taiwan || www.winnie800203.wixsite.com/suilingwang || winnie800203@gmail.com || +86 18411046944 431

UNSET YOGURT is the magic moment when white-hot glass is glowing like sunset and takes the

consistency of yogurt. Cosima Montavoci is the maker and thinker of the brand. Her research is driven and effortlessly exploring the boundaries between art and craftsmanship, making her glass creations almost like wearable sculptures.

Boobies Earrings

2018 Effetre Murano Glass, Stainless Steel

Using pieces of bodies to adorn other bodies helps us appreciate the joy that comes from the acceptance of our “Thingness”, as Paul Thek defined it referring to the Catacombs in Palermo. The body parts of the Thingness Collection are slightly creepy but kitschy and adorable. These earrings are the perfect touch of humour everyone should have. 434

Teeth Necklace

2017 Effetre Murano Glass, Waxed Cotton Cord

This statement necklace is filled with references and primordial rituals. For example, using the defeated enemy’s teeth as a necklace, to show power and strength. Every tooth is handmade with glass without using cast, so that each is slightly different, as a real tooth would be. Emphasis is given to the root of the tooth, usually hidden.

Italy || www.sunsetyogurt.com || info@sunsetyogurt.com || +39 3703689211 435

ALERIE CHEUNG was trained as a contemporary jewellery designer with BA(Hons) Jewellery

Design and Related Products at the Birmingham School of Jewellery, United Kingdom. Her work relates to blooming flowers. It expresses her fascination towards flowers and highlights the delicate beauty of this natural phenomenon.

Blooming Necklace

2018 Leather, Lokta Paper, Cotton Thread, Colour Dye

This statement neckpiece features an intricate nature and the soft touch of delicate flowers, to capture and present the features of gentle blossoms, focusing on the structure and surface patterns found within the florals. It aims to highlight and celebrate the beauty found in their sophistication, expressing the blooming phenomenon. 474

Blooming II Shoulder Piece

2018 Leather, Lokta Paper, Cotton Thread, Colour Dye

This artisan shoulder piece covers the wearer’s body of flowers. This larger scale piece is created to capture and present the sophisticated features of delicate flowers. Innovative materials and colours are used in order to achieve the quality observed in blooming flowers, giving a visual effect of the colours of numerous flower petals.

Hong Kong || www.vcjewellery.co.uk || yuetvcheung@hotmail.com || +852 95587378 475

ERONIKA KURYANOVA has a MA degree from the Moscow State Stroganov Academy of Design and Applied Arts and an MA degree from MIREA - Russian Technological University. She’s a student under Vlad Glynin and a participant in the joint project by Stroganov Academy and the Cultured gallery. Artworks on display belong to a collection called The Continents.

Australia Ring

2018 Bronze, Partial Gilding, Enamel

Australia is just perfect with its hysterically laughing kookaburras and sunlight shining through the eucalyptus trees. The remoteness of Australia has shaped its history and identity. Due to this uniqueness, Australia’s accomplishments and challenges are distinct from the issues in the rest of the world. 476

South America Ring

2018 Bronze, Partial Gilding, Nanosital, Enamel

South America is where magical realism happens. Each day here is filled with the excitement of discovery, each step is a step beyond. It is a place where restrictions and limitations do not matter and everything is possible. In South America every dream and every idea could be realized: this is what inspired this jewel.

Russia || www.facebook.com/people/Veronika-Kuryanova/100005048855871 || veronika.kuryanova@list.ru || +7 9689610432 477

URI GOGOL was born in 1970 in Russia where he was trained as an artist and jeweler. He currently lives in Buenos Aires, Argentina, where he is improving his skills as a precious diamond setter in antique and fine jewellery pieces. After an experience as long as nourished, he introduces himself as a sculptor, obtaining several important distinctions.

Amor Eterno Brooch

2018 Fine Gold, 18Kt Gold, Platinium, Sterling Silver, Emeralds, Rubies, Sapphire, Diamonds

This jewel called ”Eternal Love” represents the famous Mayan legend “Maquech” reflecting its essence and symbol so important to this day. The pin reflects the love of the Princess Cuzán with her beloved, Chalpol, turned into Maquech. That love has crossed all the laws of time, so intense and so alive that is now symbol of eternity. 488

Amor Eterno II Bracelet

2018 Fine Gold, 18Kt Gold, Platinium, Sterling Silver, Emeralds, Diamonds

The bracelet “Eternal love” is a piece of jewelry based on the famous legend “Maquech”, where the branches of the legend are converted in bracelet. This piece symbolizes the nature and the jungle with a meticulous level of detail as it´s reflected in the preciousness of the love of Princess Cuzán with her beloved, Chalpol.

Argentina || www.yurigogol.net || gogol.7@hotmail.com || +54 91160139621 489

hanks o