PRISCA VILSBØL
ARTISTIC RESEARCH
(Self-initiated, and either self-funded or funded through residencies and grants)
”Nottocontrol,nortotame,buttohumbly invite,trigger,slow,coax,pause,orexcitea transformation”
prisca@vilsbol.com
FORCES AND FRAGILITIES RESEARCH, 2022, EBELTOFT, DK.
EXTRUSION OF CLAY THROUGH COTTON GAZE.
PIECES PRESENTED IN A COLLABORATIVE SENSORY PERFORMANCE AT EBELTOFT GLASS MUSEUM. (COMPOSER AND VIOLINIST KATRINE GRARUP ELBO, SCENOGRAPH AND CHEF COOK JAKOB VINKLER)
FORCES AND FRAGILITIES RESEARCH, 2022, EBELTOFT, DK.
EXTRUSION OF CLAY THROUGH COTTON GAZE.
AN EXPLORATION OF THE TENSIONS, THE POSSIBILITIES AND THE CONSTRAINTS OF AN UNTRADITIONAL MEET BETWEEN MATERIALS.
FORCES AND FRAGILITIES RESEARCH ON MOISTURE, 2020 @PARIS,
< -- THE EFFECT OF MOISTURE ON PAPER. TESTING CUT ANGLES, LEVEL AND DIRECTION OF MOISTURE APPLICATION, GRAIN LINES AND SPEED OF DRYING TIME. TO DETERMINE AND ENHANCE PAPER DEFORMATION.
-- > THE EFFECT OF WOOD WARP ON TEXTILE DEFORMATION AND TENSION
2019, @DANISH ART WORK SHOPS, COPENHAGEN.
SCREEN PRINT AS STRUCTURAL TECHNIQUE - 4 GARMENTS, 0 SEAMS
TOOLS: DEVORÉ, PUFF - PRINT, FOIL PATTERN - MAKING TECHNIQUE
PROGRAMMABLE TEXTILES Design For Future Manufacturing Processes
In nature, function, structural qualities and aesthetics all emerge from the same ‘production process’, empowered and constrained by the interaction of each specific organism and its environment.
The ‘Programmable Textiles’ project is a research into the structural and aesthetic properties of material & textile manipulation as a form of additive manufacturing. Using my pattern-making and design expertise, I 'preprogram' the material or textile to fall into shape, by strategically weakening, stiffening, or cutting the material in advance.
My question: How much of the fit/shape/design/function can be incorporated in the material itself? To answer that, I look at all manipulations that intrinsically change the properties or aesthetics of the material - that can weaken, strengthen, color, stiffen, weld, shrink or expand the material in strategic places. Essentially creating a ‘toolbox’ for direct 2d to 3d translation. So far, through residencies and grants, I have tested mostly textile techniques such as laser cutting, laser welding, chemical etching, 3D printing, conductive ink, pleating, tapestry weaving, and screen printing.
Besides the artistic and creative explorations involved, I am interested in what such techniques could mean for the future of manufacturing in regard to aesthetics, sustainability and efficiency. My goal is to eventually automate these processes.
PROGRAMMABLE TEXTILES RESEARCH, 2019
@DANISH ART WORK SHOPS, COPENHAGEN, SCREEN PRINT AS STRUCTURAL TECHNIQUE.
TOOLS: DEVORÉ, PUFF - PRINT, FOIL & PATTERN - CUTTING TECHNIQUE
PROGRAMMABLE TEXTILES RESEARCH / CITÉ INTERNATIONALE DE LA TAPISSERIE, AUBUSSON, FRANCE
WINNER 2ND PRIZE
COLLABORATION WITH DAGMAR KESTNER / 2016
TOOLS: DIGITAL
PROJECTION-MAPPING, LOW-WARP HANDWEAVE. WOOL.
PROGRAMMABLE TEXTILES RESEARCH, 2016
SHAPE-CHANGING DRESS - FASHION
ARTICULATED DRESS / FASHION FUSION, BERLIN / 2016
COLLABORATION WITH DAGMAR KESTNER
FUSION, BERLIN - @STATENS KUNSTFOND
CO-SPONSORED BY STATENS KUNSTFOND
COLLABORATION WITH DAGMAR KESTNER.
EXPLORATION INTO SHAPE-CHANGING GARMENTS USING SMA AND SENSOR TECHNOLOGY COMBINED WITH HAUTE COUTURE CRAFT TECHNIQUES
TOOLS: PLEATING, ELECTRONIC CIRCUITS, SHAPE MEMORY POLYMERS
PROGRAMMABLE TEXTILES RESEARCH, 2016
ORI-LAB, @ARS ELECTRONICA FESTIVAL, LINZ, AUSTRIA - @STATENS KUNSTFOND
ORI-LAB AT ARS ELECTRONICA, LINZ, AUSTRIA / 2016 / 3D-PRINT ON TEXTILE / DIGITAL ORIGAMI
ORI-LAB AT ARS ELECTRONICA, LINZ, AUSTRIA / 2016 / 3D-PRINT ON TEXTILE / DIGITAL ORIGAMI
TOOLS: 3D PRINT ON TEXTILE, DIGITAL ORIGAMI & PATTERN-CUTTING TECHNIQUE
PROGRAMMABLE TEXTILES RESEARCH, 2015
@AUTODESK PIER 9 RESIDENCY, SAN FRANCISCO, USA
TOOLS: LASER CUT & PATTERN-CUTTING TECHNIQUE
PROGRAMMABLE TEXTILES RESEARCH, 2015
@AUTODESK PIER 9 RESIDENCY, SAN FRANCISCO, USA
TOOLS: LASER CUT & PATTERN-CUTTING TECHNIQUE
PROGRAMMABLE TEXTILES RESEARCH, 2015
PROGRAMMABLE TEXTILES RESEARCH, 2015
@AUTODESK PIER 9 RESIDENCY, SAN FRANCISCO, USA
PROGRAMMABLE TEXTILES RESEARCH, 2015
@PIER 9, SAN FRANCISCO, DEVORÉ AND LASER
TOOLS: LASER CUT & PATTERN-CUTTING TECHNIQUE
TOOLS: SCREEN PRINT, CHEMICAL ETCHING & PATTERN-CUTTING TECHNIQUE @PIER 9
CUT AS STRUCTURAL TECHNIQUE.
TOOLS: SCREEN PRINT, LASER CUT & PATTERN -
CUTTING TECHNIQUE
DANSK DESIGN CENTER EXHIBITION
COPENHAGEN, 2018 / BACTERIAL
DYE ON SILK & BIOMATERIALS
PROGRAMMABLE TEXTILES RESEARCH / BIOMATERIALS & STRUCTURE
COPENHAGEN, 2017 / TOOLS: BACTERIAL CELLULOSE-LEATHER FROM KOMBUCHA
SCOBY / INTEGRATING SKELETAL WOOD
STRUCTURES DURING GROWTH / LASER CUTTING STRUCTURES AFTER GROWTH
PROGRAMMABLE TEXTILES RESEARCH / BIOMATERIALS & TEXTILE STRUCTURE
SAN FRANCISCO, 2015 / TOOLS: REISHI MUSHROOM MYCELIUM / ALTERNATING HEAT AND LIGHT
DURING GROWTH FOR LAYERING / TESTS ON 4 TEXTILE FIBERS
SPACE 10 / Pattern Projects
My role was as creative lead for the proof of concept phase. Evaluating the aesthetic and technical potential of the Pattern Project hardware/software in regards to customized products in micro-factory settings Exploring the limits of CNC cutting and marking for efficient designs and circular business models.
ORGANICUP/ALLMATTERS MENSTRUAL UNDERWEAR .
My role was as Head of R&D for a new line of menstrual underwear for Organicup A/S. This was their very first textile/garment development, and they hired me specifically for my cross-disciplinary skills in design and technical development. Interested in rethinking the product instead of just going for what was available on the market, I identified novel production techniques and fiber qualities of interest and onboarded Lenzing A/S & Groz-Beckert A/S as partners in the development. It took three years, and included design briefs, bio-based fiber development, lab tests, novel incorporation of biobased odor-control, factory visits, designing protocols as well as classic sourcing and design. This is the first absorbent underwear to incorporate non-wovens and their specific properties in the functionality of the product. What started as research into efficient & sustainable production techniques, ended up delivering a product that is 3x more absorbent as well as more sustainable than the competition products. I also initiated the application that secured funding for the company through the Danish Innovation Fund, INNOBOOSTER.
KOKOON SLEEP HEADPHONES
My role was as a designer taking part in the R&D together with the engineers and founders at the very beginning of the product development. They were interested in my input as a fashion designer, and together we applied for funding through the European WORTH Project for our collaboration. The process included 3D printing, mold injection and physical prototyping, and the outcome of the 3 month collaboration was the first prototype of the headphones, which went on to become a big success in later iterations.
My role was as consultant in sustainable fibers and processes sourcing for the R&D of their first launch. For these products I researched, sourced and tested the first seaweed SeacellT fibers, antibacterial and liquid repellent treatments as well as botanical dyes from food waste and natural resources.
PANGAIA
MANUFACTURE COPENHAGEN 2013 - 2018
I co-founded Manufacture Copenhagen with Kirsti Reitan Andersen, a researcher at the Center for Corporate Social Responsibility of Copenhagen Business School. It is a non-profit organization working towards co-creating new value chains for sustainable innovation, and under that umbrella we facilitated workshops for the fashion industry, published a book and website called MAKES, mapping the local production in the Nordics, and co-produced “Re_”, a circular economy research report with Space 10, IKEA and Designit.
Fashion Design, 2004 - 2012
VILSBOL DE ARCE, 2005 - 2012, COPENHAGEN. DESIGN UNDER OWN LABEL IN COLLABORATION WITH PIA DE ARCE.THE STRUCTURAL PROPERTIES OF TEXTILES
VILSBOL DE ARCE, 2005 - 2012, COPENHAGEN. THE STRUCTURAL PROPERTIES OF TEXTILES
Curriculum Vitae
Prisca Vilsbøl (b. 1980)
Born in Paris to French-Danish parents.
Tel. +45 62336043
Email. prisca@vilsbol.com
A creative technologist at heart, my background as a master pattern-cutter, combined with an interest for innovative materials and technology, has brought me to experiment with biomaterials, advanced manufacturing, self-assembly and programmable textiles. I take a fusionist approach to the technical, theoretic and aesthetic challenges of the medium at hand, and strive to combine them in poetic and minimalistic translations of complex processes.
I also have a strong interest in human thrivability, systems thinking and change managment and it brings me to get involved in community leadership and facilitation for and together with other creatives or industrials looking to create sustainably. I have chosen to pursue sustainable change, aesthetic beauty and innovation through all mediums.
ARTISTIC RESEARCH (2015-present)
Forces and Fragilities – Artistic research into the inherent ‘strengths’ and ‘weaknesses’ of materials and how these are only defined as such due to their context. First exhibition ‘Amorphous Solid’ in Nov. 2022 at Ebeltoft Glass Museum, DK.
Programmable Textiles – Artistic research funded by residencies and art grants. In-depth research into new technologies in textiles and their implications on design aesthetics and production processes.
#SEGÏA - Århus/Malmø/London - Structural properties of screen print. Four garments, one textile, three prints, no seams.
#Articulated Dress – Berlin – Collaboration with Dagmar Kestner
Explorative research into shape-changing garments using SMA and sensor technology combined with haute couture craft techniques.
#Artificial Muscles – Copenhagen/Berlin/Dallas – Collaboration with Dagmar Kestner & UT Dallas Exploring the potential of artificial muscles in a fashion context - building on what we have learned through the articulated dress project, and using the breakthrough technology from the UT Dallas research team
#Libramen Forma – Copenhagen/Berlin/Aubusson, France – Collaboration with Dagmar Kestner & The Aubusson Tapestry technicians. 2nd prize of the competition. Weaving of the final piece is ongoing and will be inaugurated at the tapestry museum. #Autodesk Pier 9 – San Francisco – Artist in Residence - http://www.autodesk.com/pier-9 Research in biomaterials, textile manipulations and the possible implications of these on design and production processes.
SUSTAINABILITY RESEARCH (2016-present)
#Funkisfabrikken (2018 june-oct) – Sustainability Research Center (under construction), SE – Advisor for the build and program of the Textile Research Lab.
#Closing the Circle (sept-dec.2016) – Copenhagen – Designer-in-Residence – Funded by: Space 10 / IKEA / Designit - Explorative research into the possibilities and challenges of the circular economy and what it means for circular design.
#Made Again (june.2016) – Barcelona – Design participant – Funded by: Space 10 / IKEA. Explorative research into the possibilities and challenges of the circular economy and what it means for circular design.
TEACHING (2011-2020)
#Program coordinator and Lead teacher - Innovative Fashion Design (2018) - Designhøjskole Højer - Together we started a school from scratch on limited resources, rethinking the learning experience and challenging the norms of the professional/personal divide. Com- bining entrepreneurship, design, sustainability and craft into one pwer-packed course.
#External Lecturer and Censor for Fashion and Textile (2011-present)- Teaching in Creative design processes and Communication strategy at The Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts, School of Design (MA + BA) – Kolding School of Design (BA)
– Den Skandina- viske Designhøjskole – Copenhagen Fashion and Design Academy.
CONSULTANCY - SUSTAINABLE DESIGN INNOVATION (2013-present)
Coordinating product R&D, ensuring all design, technical and sustainable ambitions and parameters are met. Including sourcing, connecting to the right partners (national & international) and funding opportunities.
# OMSÄ (2023 Mar.) – London – Circular systems for furniture – Automation and customization in an IKEA context.
# Organicup (2018 Jun.- 2020.) – Copenhagen - Research, Product Dev. & Design - Textile product with technical fiber properties. # Pangaia (2018 may-)– Paris –Sourcing Lead – Launch of a high-tech sustainable luxury apparel brand with FTL/Future Tech Lab https://thepangaia.com
#FTL/Future Tech Lab (2017 may-nov.) – Paris/Moscow – Consultancy in sustainable technology http://ftlab.com - Sustainable capsule collection for the Italian fashion barnd PINKO
#Kokoon Technologies (2014 Nov.- Dec.) – London - Product and UX Design - https://kokoon.io/ Design of sleep sensing EEG headphones. Collaboration instigated by the WORTH project funded by the EU.
#Sydney Brown LLC (2014 Jan.- Oct.) – Los Angeles – Consultant in Product and Sales
Growing the brand through strategic marketing, sales and product innovation. Setting up collaborations with sustainable material develop- ers such as SmartFiber (SeaCell fabrics), Modern Meadow (lab-grown leather), etc. - http://www.sydney-brown.com/
#Makers With Agendas (2013 July-Sept.) – Design / Concept for SMLXL transformable bag - http://mwa.eu/
ENTREPRNEURSHIP (2004-present)
#Manufacture Copenhagen (2013-present)– Co-founder and Design lead http://manufacturecph.com/ Rethinking the future of apparel manufacturing through circular economy, sustainable practices and new technologies. Manufacture Copenhagen is a non-profit organization working towards co-creating new value chains for sustainable innovation.
#VILSBØL DE ARCE (2004-2012)- Co-founder, Partner and Designer http://news.vilsboldearce.com/category/work/ - http:// vilsboldearce.com. The designer duo Vilsbøl de Arce created avant-garde fashion with strong ties to art and performance for 10 years. From 2007-2012 they showed at Copenhagen and Paris fashion weeks, reaching acclaim for their collections and artistic expression. Their designs were worn by Rihanna, Lady Gaga and Peaches among others, and sold in concept stores from New York to Hong Kong
GRANTS / AWARDS / RESIDENCIES / EXHIBITIONS
2022 Sept. Exhibition – “Amorphous Solid” – Ebeltoft Glass Museum – Scenography and Performance
2022 Apr. Grant – Statens Kunstfond – Forces and Fragilities
2021 Oct. Paris research into metalwork and ceramics – Funded by state art grant.
2019 Sept. Exhibition – Textile Intersections 2019 – Textile Materialities and Processes – How does present-day research on new materials and processes refine/change the existing models of manufacturing? - Loughborough University, London
2019 Apr. Travel Grant - Statens Kunstfond - Research trip on biomaterials and processes - New York, USA
2019 Apr. Grant - Statens Kunstfond - Work grant for Delicious Matter - Food as Material Science
2019 May. Talk - ‘Fashioned from Nature’ exhibition opening – “Future Textiles” - Geological Museum, Copenhagen
2017 Jan. Talk - Sustaining Fashion Conference – “The facilitators role in driving change” – KEA, Copenhagen
2017 May. Grant - Innovation Express – for ‘MAKES Nordic Production’ project - Nordic Alliance
2016 June. Talk - Made Again Conference – “Parsimony, Production and Biomaterials” – IAAC Barcelona, Spain
2016 June. Talk - In(3)Dustry – Panel debate on the future of fabrication – Barcelona, Spain
2016 May. Talk - Design Onsdag – “Design process and discovery - Vilsbøl de Arce” – Designmuseum Danmark, CPH 2016 May.
Grant - Statens Kunstfond – Work grant for ‘Aesthetics of Action’ project
2016 Apr. Talk -“The role of materials and processes in artistic practice” – Kunstakademiet, Copenhagen
2016 Mar. Exhibition - “Dansk Design NU” - With pieces from the Vilsbøl de Arce archive.
2015 Dec Award - 2nd Prize, Aubusson Tisse la Mode – Handwoven tapestry dress – Aubusson Tapestry Museum.
2015 Sept. Talk -“Biomaterials, Technology and their role in Sustainable Design Practice” – KADK, Copenhagen
2015 June. Talk – Autodesk Pier 9 - “Biomimicry & Programmable Textiles” – San Francisco, USA
2015 Jan. Residency - Autodesk Pier 9 – Stipend and Residency
22013 May.Grant - Statens Kunstfond – Work grant for ‘Structural Textiles’ project 2011 May. Grant - Statens Kunstfond – Work grant for Vilsbøl de Arce
2010 May. Grant - Statens Kunstfond – Work grant for ‘Tangram Organism’ project 2010 April. Award - ‘Talent of The Year’ at the 2010 Danish Fashion Awards
2010 Jan. Grant - Danmarks Nationalbanks Jubilaeumsfond - Project support for ‘Anatomy’, installation and show. 2009 June. Grant - Statens Kunstfond - Project support for the production of the short film ‘Tangram Organism’. 2008 May. Nomination - Politikens Talent Award - for film project ‘The Egg, The Monk and the Warrior’.
2008 Apr. Exhibition - Charlottenborg Spring Exhibition - Film and costumes ‘The Egg, The Monk and the Warrior’
EDUCATION
2000-2002 Copenhagen Academy of Fashion and Design, Copenhagen, DenmarkDesign Technician, Fashion/Apparel Design
1996-1999 - Lycee Technique de St Avold, St Avold, France - Baccalaureat in Natural Sciences, Specialized in Physics / Chemistry. Secondary Mathematics and Biology.
LANGUAGES
French, English, Danish - fluent Spanish, German - light