Photo: Tobago Cocoa Estate W.I. Ltd
Cocoa making a comeback
by Katy Young
Cocoa used to be one of Tobago’s most lucrative industries. However, disease, the devastation caused by Hurricane Flora in 1963 and the subsequent migration of Tobagonians, meant that the glory days of cocoa were thought to be well and truly over. But, over the last decade, there has been a movement to revive cocoa production on the island. Duane Dove’s Tobago Cocoa Estate in Roxborough, which is known widely as the ‘birthplace’ of the Trinitario cocoa, is a 43-acre estate which is open to visitors (more details at www. tobagococoa.com). The estate is planted with 11 different strains of the Trinitario bean, which are all harvested by hand before being dried and shipped to France. Here, the beans are turned into the signature Tobago Estate Chocolate W.I. bars by artisan chocolatier, Francois Pralus. Noted for its rich and intense flavours, the chocolate has already won numerous awards, including the highest accolade in Great Taste 2014, where it was awarded three Gold Stars by the London Guild of Fine Foods. It is available in Tobago and at selected markets in Europe and the USA.
Similarly, the discovery of the rare and prized Criollo variety of cocoa growing on the farms of members of the Tobago Cocoa Farmers’ Association, has led to the White Bean Conservation Project. Working with the Cocoa Research Centre at The University of the West Indies, St Augustine Campus, the farmers have planted grafted Criollo seedlings at French Fort in the hope of protecting this variety, which is noted for its caramel through to fruity flavours. The 16 members of the association also produce the Trinitario cocoa to make the Louis d’Or Single Estate dark chocolate, which is entirely produced on the island by Calder Hall-born bar maker, Clement Bobb. Bobb, who is a third generation cocoa farmer, spent years experimenting with recipes, receiving encouragement and feedback from cocoa and fruit technologist, Dr. Darin Sukha. This led to his signature single estate bar, which won an international award for flavour from the Salon du Chocolat in France in October 2011. It is available at select outlets in Tobago.
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