Broome Visitors Guide Issue 17 by Vanguard Publishing Perth

ISSUE 17 August-November 2017. Courtesy of the Broome Visitor Centre - visitbroome.com.au

V I S I T O R S

G U I D E

Free map on page 78

Going to the movies SUN PICTURES CELEBRATES 100 YEARS

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

Immerse yourself in the story of

THE AUSTRALIAN PEARL

The Australian Pearl Magazine Issue 1 OUT NOW In store & online B R O O M E B O U T I Q U E : 2 3 DA M P I E R T E R R AC E C YG N E T B AY P E A R L FA R M : C A P E L E V E Q U E R OA D , DA M P I E R P E N I N S U L A P 9 1 9 2 5 4 0 2 â&#x20AC;¢ W C YG N E T B AY P E A R L S . C O M . AU

visitbroome.com.au

Welcome to

elcome to Broome and the latest edition of the Broome Visitors Guide. Whether you’re a first time visitor to Broome or have been here many times, we hope you'll find stories which will inform and excite. If you’re in town for the Broome Cup - the highest Cup stake race in the southern hemisphere - you're in for a treat. It's one of the biggest events in Broome’s social calendar and proves that locals and visitors alike will get dressed up to the nines to cheer on their favourite horses. We’ve also got suggestions about where to go for brekkie or brunch including The Wharf's new Korean-style feast for something different. As ever, we proudly tell Broome’s rich pearling stories, from then and now, and would encourage you to join one of the tours around town which share this important part of the town’s history and culture. Our cover star - Sun Pictures - is the grand old lady of Broome and this year, she's celebrating a very special birthday. For the last 100 years, Sun Pictures has entertained Broome folk with a night at the

OPENING HOURS: August Weekdays open from 8.30am to 4.30pm Weekends open from 9am to 4pm September Weekdays open from 8.30am to 4.30pm Weekends open from 9am to 3pm October and November Weekdays open from 8.30am to 4pm Weekends open from 9am to noon Hours are subject to change.

1 Hamersley St, Broome WA 6725 Call us on 08 9195 2200 or visit www.visitbroome.com.au or www.facebook.com/GoBroome View us on tripadvisor BROOME VISTOR CENTRE Twitter: #VisitBroome & #LoveBroome

movies and to celebrate this amazing slice of history there's a very special competition to win tickets to the celebrations this August. There’s so much to see and do in Broome, from a visit to the brand new aquarium at Aqua Broome to Chinatown’s eclectic shops. Do stop by to meet our highly experienced team. We’re here to help and are the friendly experts on Broome and its surrounding area.

The Team at Broome Visitor Centre

AUGUST ~ NOVEMBER 2017

PREMIUM PUBLISHERS V I S I T O R S

Broome Visitors Guide published for the Broome Visitor Centre by Premium Publishers.

G U I D E

ADVERTISING SALES Broome Visitor Centre and Mel Virgo mel.virgo@visitbroome.com.au Ph 0438 297 600 Buna-Tuaty Poelina buna.poelina@visitbroome.com.au

FEATURES 8 12 25 42 46 48 66 68 74

EDITORIAL Managing Editor Gabi Mills gabi@premiumpublishers.com.au

10 things to do in Broome Sun Picture's100 years Brekkie in Broome Stargazing with Greg Broome Cup Raceday fashion Missy Higgins sings Illy on tour 28 Tura New Music

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COVER IMAGE Brett Barnett Photography. ART & DESIGN: Cally Browning cally@barecreative.com.au

READ ON . . . 10 14 16 18 20 21 22 28 34 36 40 44 52 53 54 56 58 60 62 64 70 76 77 80 4

All aboard Big Bird Galwey Pearls King Leopold Air Kaleidoscope tour of Broome Spice Girl at Ginreab Thai Fill up at the Roey Eat, drink & enjoy Broome with a view Go fishing with AOC Art in Broome Whalewatching and culture Discover Broome Fish Broome's big catch Aqua Broome Jewellery's winning designs Cygnet Bay's giant tides Lost Broome rediscovered Health and wellbeing Allure Pearls Horizontal Falls What's On in Broome Tides timetable Magabala Books BVC Members list

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

CONTRIBUTORS AND PHOTOGRAPHY Norman Burns, Simon Merritt, Lisa Shearon, Yane Sotiroski, Tori Wilson, Michael Woodley.

All statements, including product claims, are those of the person or organisation making the statement or claim. The Broome Visitor Centre (BVC) does not adopt any such statement or claim it as its own. Any such statement or claim does not necessarily reflect the opinion of the BVC.

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Advertisers and advertising agencies accept and assume liability for all content (including text, representations, illustrations, opinions, and facts) of advertisements printed, and also assume responsibility for any claims made against the BVC arising from or related to such advertisements. The BVC reserves the right to reject any advertising which is not in keeping with the publication’s standards. Advertising is booked on a ‘first come first served’ basis.

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© All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form by any means without the prior permission of the copyright owner. Enquiries should be made to the publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure that this magazine is free from error or omissions. However, the Publisher, the Authors, the Editor or their respective employees or agents, shall not accept responsibility for injury, loss or damage occasioned to any person acting or refraining from action as a result of material in this magazine whether or not such injury, loss or damage is in any way due to any negligent act or omission, breach of duty or default on the part of the Publisher, the Authors, the Editor, or their respective employees or agents.

visitbroome.com.au

2 S HOR T S T R E E T, B R O O M E PA S PA L E Y. C O M Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

visitbroome.com.au

10 EXPERIENCE HORIZONTAL FALLS

YO U M U S T D O I N

BROOME

WITNESS THE SPECTACULAR tides of Horizontal Falls on a scenic helicopter flight or captivating boat ride. Horizontal Falls is a rare and brilliant natural phenomena of Broome, described by David Attenborough as one of the greatest wonders of the natural world. To prolong the experience, opt to stay overnight in a luxury houseboat right on the water and soak up your surroundings with a beverage in hand.

things

EAT & DRINK AT MATSO'S BREWERY

SIP ON A frosty ginger or mango beer while overlooking Roebuck Bay at Matso’s Broome Brewery, the perfect accompaniment to a warm afternoon. If you’re in need of a feed, Matso’s award-winning brewery is also a restaurant that marries its menu to the beer they produce, while Broome’s Asian influence allows the chefs to dish up some creative plates. Take a tour with the brewer Pav to learn the ins and outs of brewing at Matso’s. 8

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

RELAX AT REDDELL BEACH

FLOAT ON THE invigorating waters of the pristine Reddell Beach, a favourite among the Broome locals. This secluded beach is the ideal location for reading a book while lazing about in the sun. The stark contrast of the aqua blue Indian Ocean against the red pindan rock makes for an impressive sight. Make sure you visit at high tide for a chance to witness the ochre pigment bleed into the crystal blue waters as the ocean tide meets the cliffs.

visitbroome.com.au

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VISIT THE HERITAGE MUSEUM REFLECT UPON THE rich social history of Broome at the SSIJ Heritage Centre Broome, run by The Sisters of St John of God. Housed at the Heritage listed ‘Old Convent’, this museum is a quaint and curious building where you can peruse the permanent Relationships Exhibition full of photos, videos and a collection of unique artefacts that expose some of the highs and lows of the local history.

6 ENJOY A HOVERCRAFT TOUR

WITNESS THE SUN set on dusk’s horizon from the comfort of a hovercraft after viewing some of Broome’s most unique attractions: ancient dinosaur prints and the three Dutch Airforce Flying Boats buried in the offshore sands of Roebuck Bay. After exploring Broome’s historical wonders, enjoy hors d’oeuvres and sparkling wine as the amber sun sets upon the bay’s low tides.

BUY A PEARL IN CHINATOWN

ADMIRE THE LUSTROUS pearls born out of Broome at one of Chinatown’s magnificent showrooms. With an extensive history of bountiful pearl farming, Broome is said to be home to some of the world’s most perfect pearls. While there, you might like to visit Broome’s restored pearl lugger from the town’s pearl farming glory days and perhaps even sample some succulent pearl meat.

EXPLORE THE CROCODILE PARK EXPLORE THE AUSTRALIAN animal kingdom at the Malcolm Douglas Crocodile Park and Animal Refuge. The park is home to an impressive array of uniquely Australian wildlife, with vibrant birdlife, a cassowary, kangaroos, euros and wallabies, emus, jabirus, snakes, crocodiles and lizards included. Here, if you’re feeling brave, you can witness some the largest crocodiles in Australia feeding on the daily tour.

DISCOVER MINYIRR PARK

YOGA AT THE BUDDHA SANCTUARY RELAX AND LET your mind and body be completely at ease at the Buddha Sanctuary in Broome. The sanctuary is home to a three-metre tall crystal Buddha statue and was created with the community in mind as a place of peace and stillness to visit for meditation and spiritual practice. Visit in the morning to join in a dynamic and invigorating yoga class, or in the evening to focus on inner stillness and peace of mind.

ENJOY A TOUR led by a local Aboriginal expert to discover how the oldest culture in the world is still deeply connected with the surrounding land and sea at Minyirr park, located behind the white, sandy dunes of Cable Beach. Learn about dreamtime culture, the major song cycles, native plants and animals, and the local bush medicines that are still in use in the area of Broome.

GO FISHING AT CABLE BEACH CAST A LINE off the white sands of Broome’s iconic Cable Beach. Broome is renowned as a bountiful place to fish and for years this spot has been a popular location to make a catch. It’s consistently abundant with queenfish and trevally, while mackerel and tuna are also available for the taking. Reel a few in before kicking back to enjoy that famous Cable Beach sunset.

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

A trip on a hovercraft is a day’s sightseeing like no other especially when you are in the amazing environment of Roebuck Bay. By NORMAN BURNS. Images courtesy BROOME HOVERCRAFT.

Catch a ride with

BIG BIRD

overcraft were barely in their infancy when then-trainee aircraft engineer Roger Colless and some mates decided to build one. Something must have clicked with the

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

young Roger because, 30 years later, after a long stint with the Royal Australian Navy (by 36 he’d risen to Carrier Air Group Chief Engineer) then post-navy in the resource sector with companies such as

Woodside Petroleum and Rio Tinto, he got back into ‘flying’ hovercraft - this time in beautiful Broome. And 18 years on, the Broome Hovercraft director’s love for these amazing craft - and their capabilities - is as strong as ever; the great thing, too, is that he’s been able to share the wonder of hovercraft travel with thousands of tourists in one of the world’s most amazing regions. Hovercraft are perfect for flitting over Broome’s tidal flats; hovering on a cushion of air they can tackle snow, mud, ice, swamps and marshes and water with virtually no impact on the environment or wildlife. Broome Hovercraft is the only tourism hovercraft operation in the visitbroome.com.au

Southern Hemisphere and just one of three world-wide. But even within the somewhat arcane world of hovercraft, Broome Hovercraft’s 24-seat Pioneer Mark III vessel, dubbed Big Bird, is unique. “We designed this craft in the Gold Coast, had the hull and superstructure constructed in an Australian boat builder’s yard in China, and than back to the Gold Coast for fit-out. Forty percent was completed here, a further 40% with another boat builder in Brisbane and the remainder here in Broome,” says Roger. “It was necessary for us to ‘drop the skirt’ as the craft was 12mm overwidth for transport; but this craft is the prototype and the only one of its kind in the world. It is unlikely that others will be built, even though we have a second, similar hovercraft partially completed in Brisbane,” he says. And via this amphibious marvel, tourists can be whisked to some of Broome’s most incredible sights - from the evocative wreckage of World War

II Catalina flying boats to the amazing, 120 million-year-old fossilised dinosaur tracks, on the other side of Roebuck Bay. Another massive benefit of the hovercraft is it doesn’t have propellors to churn up the sea, thus no danger of wildlife such as turtles or sunfish being “collateral damage” on a day of sightseeing. The downward pressure of the hovercraft’s skirt system is about that of a seagull standing on one leg, so travelling over sensitive eco-systems (crabs, sea grass and molluscs) in the tidal flats is also environmentally friendly. “Our tours are all conducted along the interface between the tidal flats and the incoming or outgoing tides as we like to give our passengers the amphibious effect unique to hovercraft,” says Roger. “On our signature Scenic and Prehistoric tour, our passengers disembark on the other side of the bay to view some well-preserved, 120 millionyear-old sauropod footprint trails and on the Sunset tour we’ll do all of that

followed by a stop on the tidal flats on the way back to watch the sun setting - accompanied by hors d’oeuvres and sparkling wine.’’ Big Bird can also be booked for weddings (having the bride or groom arrive via hovercraft is quite a spectacle), private dinners and corporate functions (Broome Hovercraft runs every day of the year, except Christmas Day). The tours have been a smash with scores of celebrities (Cate Blanchett was one) and sports personalities (West Coast Eagles and Perrth Wildcats players) and thousands of of others, all amazed at Roebuck Bay’s unspoilt vistas. But Roger has an important piece of advice for anyone who wants to come on board a Big Bird trip. “It’s really quite sad that we have to turn away so many people from our tours as they are consistently full during the peak tourist season. So it’s best to book well before you come to Broome in order to secure a seat,” he says. To book a ride, visit visitbroome.com.au.

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

One hundred years young, Broome’s Sun Pictures has survived natural disasters, bombardment in World War II and the TV and video boom. This August, two special events will be held to celebrate the world’s oldest operating outdoor cinema, which remains a must-visit when in Broome. By NORMAN BURNS. Images COURTESY BRETT BARNETT PHOTOGRAPHY

star quality

I am big; it’s the pictures that got small…”

o said faded movie star Norma Desmond (Gloria Swanson) in the 1950’s classic Sunset Boulevard. It’s a phrase that’s also apt for the wonderful Sun Pictures theatre, celebrating its centenary this year, and still a star even though the grandeur and romance of the movies has faded somewhat. On Saturday August 26 at 4pm outside the theatre, Broome will get its own version of the Hollywood Boulevard walk of fame when pavement plaques will be unveiled on Carnarvon Street commemorating the grand old dame’s history. Sun Pictures started life out as an Asian

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

emporium and Japanese playhouse but in 1913 master pearler Ted Hunter bought the building. World War I slowed his plans but on December 9 1916 the 500-seat “picture garden” - complete with a marble soda fountain and cane and deckchair seating - opened. The first film screened was the long-forgotten British racing drama, Kissing Cup. The talkies were still decades away, so cinema-goers (in their best threads, of course) watched silent movies accompanied by a pianist. The theatre became the epicentre of social gatherings and entertainment in

Broome and ran for years until March 1942 when owners William Henry Milner Harry and Rupert Leonard Knight were forcibly evacuated just two days before Japan bombed the town. Sun Pictures thrived in the golden age of movies of the 1950s and early 1960s but, like many periods in history that now jar with modern thinking, not all memories are necessarily good. Even though Broome was Australia’s most multi-cultural town, with people from Chinese, Japanese, Malay, Timorese, Indigenous Australian and European backgrounds, the cinema had racially visitbroome.com.au

Win

when the stars and pictures were big. Norma Desmond would be impressed. For details, visit broomemovies.com.au

a ticket for two to Sun Pictures special celebration on August 26 at 7.30pm.

In tribute of this 100-year milestone, the World’s Oldest Operating Picture Gardens will be unveiling pavement plaques in Carnarvon Street in front of the theatre, commemorating the history of Sun Pictures at 4pm Saturday, August 26.

To enter visit Visit Broome’s Facebook page.

This project is funded by Royalties for Regions through the Chinatown Revitalisation Project Activation Initiative Matched Grants.

Good luck!

A special ticket-only event ($75 per ticket) featuring tributes to the

Project1_Layout 1 21/04/2016 Page characters, stories and 11:31 musicam that has1 shaped the Sun Pictures story

will be held at the theatre the same day, from 7.30pm to midnight. For details, visit broomemovies.com.au

Johnny Chi Lane Broome

08 9193 7822 SHOP ON-LINE @ azurebeach.com.au

segregated seating until 1967. It was also prone to tidal flooding, which not only meant the men having to roll up their trousers (and, after the end of a movie, hoist their wives or partners on their back and wade across the street), but the floodwater would often bring with it unwelcome critters such as fish, mice, scorpions or the occasional snake. With its corrugated iron construction and Sun Pictures sign made up of lightbulbs, the theatre looks, at least from the outside, like time has stood still. The projection booth tells a different story, digital technology replacing those wonderful reel projectors (some of which are on display, along with a great series of old photographs, posters and other memorabilia, in the cinema’s lobby). People may no longer dress to the nines for a night at the cinema but at its heart Sun Pictures retains the charm, and grandeur, of days

BIG NIGHT OUT Sun Pictures has been a favourite venue in Broome for locals and visitors alike for 100 years.

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017 Johnny Chi Lane - Broome

A deep

connection The history of pearling is part of the DNA of Galwey Pearls as Lisa Shearon discovers.

ith a family history stretching back to the early days of pearling, Galwey Pearls has a deep appreciation for the people of many backgrounds who contributed to the founding of Broome. Both Lyndal Galwey – the founder of Galwey Pearls – and her daughter Prudence, who runs the business, share a profound respect for the people who built up the pearl-shell industry – including Pearl Hamaguchi, born in Broome’s Chinatown in 1940. Pearl’s grandfather, John Chi, came to Western Australia from China in the late 1800s, originally settling in Cossack, the birthplace of WA’s pearling industry and the home of the colony’s pearling fleet until the 1880s. In 1886, the main pearling industry moved to Broome – along with John, who joined a number of Europeans and many Asians looking for adventure. It was in Broome that John met his future wife, Pearl’s grandmother, who came from Japan for the same reasons as her husband. Prior to the arrival of Asians such as John and his wife, pearl shells were largely collected by local Aborigines, who were sent offshore to ‘naked dive’ without oxygen, snorkel or mask. With the introduction of diving suits, the Aborigines were replaced by predominantly Japanese divers, who were paid by the amount of shell they collected. After arriving in Broome, Pearl’s

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

grandfather went into business with an Australian man, who ended up sailing off into the sunset with the schooner they’d built together. Disillusioned, John abandoned pearl shells in favour of opening his own noodle shop, as well as a taxi business. When Pearl’s father, Jimmy, inherited the family restaurant, the Chi family ended its relationship with the pearling industry. That was, however, until Pearl – the daughter of a member of the Stolen Generation, married a Japanese pearl diver called Hiroshi Hamaguchi. During World War I and World War II, the pearl-shell industry practically ceased. The industry relied heavily on its Japanese pearl-shell divers and, as a result of Japan entering World War II, these divers were imprisoned in prisoner-of-war camps. “During World War II, the whole pearling industry shut down,” Pearl explains. “Then, after the Pacific War ended, Canberra finally relented and agreed that the Japanese could help revive the pearling industry again. “My husband was one of the new recruits, arriving here in 1955. From 1955 until right up to when he died, 10 years ago, he was involved in pearling.” For six years, Hiroshi worked as a HardHat diver, risking his life every single day to collect the precious South Sea pearl shells – pinctada maxima – so highly prized in Europe and Asia.

“The Japanese are real sea people; they have no fear of death,” Pearl adds. In 1956, the first cultured pearl farm was set up at Kuri Bay, 420 km north of Broome. After six years diving for pearl shells, Hiroshi returned to his roots and participated in this side of the industry, instead. “His job was to be there with the transport ship, to pick up the virgin shell, transport it to his ship, and then bring it up to the pearl farm in Kuri Bay, miles away, where they seeded it. “The pearl shell had to be in good health. It was my husband’s responsibility to keep the pearl shell alive so that it could be seeded to produce a pearl. “In 1982, we were granted a pearling licence and established Hamaguchi pearls. “Thank god I had six sons, of which four worked with their father as divers, skippers and engineers. My husband used to say it was child’s play compared to how he used to dive for pearl shells in the old days.” As a result of the pearling industry, the architecture and population of Broome is quite unique in Australia. It has a Chinatown with a number of Chinese buildings and a local cemetery with both Japanese and Chinese sections. According to Pearl, Broome is a town unlike any other, thanks largely – if not solely – to the pearl-shell industry, and the Japanese contribution to it. “Broome is a town like no other,” she says. “We had multiculturalism 130 years before everyone else. We had every race under the sun except maybe the Eskimos and we all lived harmoniously. “Pearling was our life, it was a life of challenge but we knew no other.” “When our husbands went away, we did not worry, there was no radio, no contact. When they went away for six weeks you didn’t know if they were going to make it back, but we knew the risks.” This deep respect and appreciation for the pearling industry, and all those involved in it – past and present – are still a huge part of Broome’s identity to this day. There’s an awareness that without pearling there would be no Broome, and vice versa – something that drives Galwey Pearls to be the best it possibly can be, each day. Galwey Pearls, Pearler’s Boardwalk, Dampier Terrace, Chinatown, Broome. Visit galweypearls.com.au Galwey Pearls pay knowledge & tribute to the people of many backgrounds that contributed to the founding of Broome during the Pearl Shell industry. visitbroome.com.au

BAROQUE

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DROP

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GOLD

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PE ARLER'S BOARDWALK , BRO OME

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TA H I T I A N

W W W.G A LW E Y P E A R L S .CO M . AU Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

A TRIP WITH KING LEOPOLD AIR WILL REVEAL THE KIMBERLEY AND BROOME REGION IN ALL ITS GLORY, SAYS LISA SHEARON.

Reach

for the

sky

ourists arrive in Broome for many reasons, but for some, there’s just one thing on their mind: sightseeing the Kimberley’s incredible landscape from the skies. From April onwards the spectacular scenery of the Kimberley region begins to take centre stage, and few are better placed to appreciate it than King Leopold Air. “The Kimberley has some unique and spectacular scenery,” King Leopold Air’s Phil Telfer says. “Our tours take in the remote areas to make the adventure more exciting. “Our scenic flights are the best way to see these amazing sights and experience the unique areas of the Kimberley.” King Leopold Air’s tours include flying over the Buccaneer Archipelago and Horizontal Falls, with a stopover at Cape Leveque. Visit Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm or fly over the remote Prince Regent National Park and the stunning Mitchell Falls, or visit the Bungle Bungles or Geiki Gorge on a day tour. New to King Leopold Air’s tour schedule is the Bundy Cultural Experience at Cape Leveque, which showcases the traditional fishing of the Djarindjin, as well as Dreamtime storytelling and traditional bush-survival skills. “All our tours include the ground components that put you right into the

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

attractions,” Phil explains. “All our pilots are highly trained and ensure the passengers enjoy their experience, with complimentary transfers, a water bottle and a personalised tour map on arrival. “Our well-maintained high-wing aircraft have wide passenger windows for better viewing.” According to Phil, it is King Leopold’s pilots who make the tours unforgettable. “We handpick our pilots to to make the tour enjoyable for the customers," he says. “Our pilots make the customers feel very welcome, and provide them with a lot of information, answering any questions along the way. They have a good understanding of the area and are a tour guide as well as a pilot.” King Leopold Air offers visitors to the

region the opportunity to see the Kimberley at its untouched best. “The Kimberley is such a unique, remote area and the best way to view it is by air,” Phil says. “We like to impress our customers with a memorable experience.” King Leopold Air, kingleopoldair.com.au, 08 9193 7155. For more information visit visitbroome.com.au

visitbroome.com.au

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

HISTORIC Streeter's Jetty reaches out into Roebuck Bay.

Going places Take a tour with the friendly Broome Transit team and you’ll discover the wonders of Broome in comfort.

roome Transit are so much more than the company behind the popular Broome taxi fleet. They also operate a fleet of additional vehicles, including air-conditioned coaches to explore Broome and beyond. Hop aboard a Jetty to Jetty Tour and discover Broome’s rich heritage along the foreshore of Roebuck Bay, with detailed and informative commentary from Broome locals. Guests will discover the beauty, culture and history of this fascinating

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

foreshore aboard an air-conditioned coach, following the Yawuru’s Jetty to Jetty Trail, from the historic Streeter’s Jetty in Chinatown to the site of Broome’s Old Jetty at Town Beach. Travel through the heart of Yawuru country and learn more about the cultural landscape of the local Yawuru people. Get a taste of the romance, adversity and industry that defined Broome’s pearling era. The Jetty to Jetty tour offers all this and more, bringing to light the legacy of the

pearling and the foundations of Broome’s multicultural community. For $60 per person, Broome Transit will pick up from all hotels between 1 and 1.30 pm, with a return drop-off two hours later. To find out more about Broome’s most famous export - pearls - Broome Transit offer an additional tour: Broome Kaleidoscope Tour. Join the air-conditioned coach to explore Broome as only the locals know it. You will see the very essence of Broome in comfort. See the spectacular natural beauty, learn about the town’s diverse history and culture and see how the world-famous South Sea Australian Pearl is cultivated and harvested. The tour includes Chinatown, a visit to the Japanese/ Chinese cemetery, an extended visit to the fascinating Broome Museum (top tip: a real gem for history fans); a one-hour visit to the Cygnet Bay Pearls boutique. You can also view one of the largest and rarest pearls in the world before finally exploring Cable Beach and Gantheume Point, home of Broome’s famous dinosaur footprints. For more information visit broometaxis.com.au.

visitbroome.com.au

FLY THE KIMBERLEY

KING LEOPOLD AIR

Discover I Fly I Experience King Leopold Air has over 26 years of experience, committed customer service and highly values its relationship with passengers. Our aim is to exceed expectations while providing Safety, Excellence and Knowledge through its operations.

www.kingleopoldair.com.au 08 9193 7155

CAPE LEVEQUE - HORIZONTAL FALLS - KING CASCADES - BUCCANEER ARCHIPELAGO - MITCHELL FALLS - BUNGLE BUNGLE - AND MORE

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

Spice girl Owner manager at Ginreab Thai, Jitsopin Long (otherwise known to all as Air), brings her own special take on her native region’s northern Thai cuisine. Gabi Mills finds out more.

t’s a restaurant that’s well named Ginreab means ‘clean plate’ in Thai and, for the many diners who pass through this buzzing destination’s doors, you won’t find many leftovers. With a climate that perfectly suits the hot, spicy, sweet and sour cuisine of Thailand, Broome’s Ginreab is the ideal place to try some truly authentic dishes derived from Air’s home town of Phrae in the far north of Thailand. Here she learned to cook from her mother, aunties and nannies in the village from the age of six.

There’s a real attention to detail from those working the woks in the kitchen. Choose any of the dishes and you’ll note the balanced use of Thai herbs, spices, chilli and curry, combined with aromatic sweet jasmine rice (kao suay), glass bean noodles and a choice of fresh, tender meats and seafood, stacks of vegetables and plenty of delicious sauces will make every meal bring back those fond memories of the culinary delights that Thailand has to offer. The restaurant uses 100% local suppliers with some fresh produce even sourced from

TASTY PLATES Ginreab Thai's hot, spicy, sweet and sour dishes are a delight, and a truly authentic example of Northern Thai cuisine.

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

local Broome gardens. The open plan kitchen adds to the sense of theatre; diners can actually watch their dishes being cooked and, thanks to the restaurant’s popularity, the vibe is fastpaced and fun. “There’s a bit of a cacophony at times,” says Martin Long, self-described ‘head taster’ of the restaurant, “what with the woks banging and sizzling, the exhaust fan, the Thai cooks calling out to each other in their native tongue, the customers chatting and laughing, traditional Thai music in the background, plates and bowls clinking.” Favourite dishes include spicy Hokkien noodles with seafood, pad thai, crispy pork belly with chilli jam, traditional Northern Thai curry (gaeng hung lai or ginger duck). And the best thing of all? They’re all healthy and supercharged on the taste front. Ginreab Thai, Paspaley Shopping Centre, Carnarvon Street, Chinatown. Call (08) 91912 2533 or visit ginreabthai.com.au TOP TIP Check out the $15 Lunch Menu and Chef Specials Menu featuring some of the yummiest duck and crispy pork belly dishes going around. visitbroome.com.au

“We’re getting fresh, local fish in once a week, which is great,” says Humphrey. “We’ll get in a variety of fish, including Rankin cod, coral trout and snapper. Then we’ll do it up with a nice potato dish or a fresh salad and vegetables.” The Roey Burger is another of the venue's classic pub meals, along with their threadfin fish and chips. “The battered threadfin fish and chips, again, is a local Australian fish. We get a lot of tourists here who really enjoy that meal,” says Humphrey. “We also have a sizzling prawn dish that comes served in a metal pot with chilli and garlic sauce and a portion of bread.” Humphrey says that they try to keep things simple but wholesome. “We’re just trying to deliver a good pub meal that’s a generous serving.” Speaking of simple but generous, the Saturday night parmi special and the Sunday night roast are both high value meals that draw in the crowds.

Pub grub done right The Roey’s Pearlers Bar and Bistro serves delicious wholesome tucker throughout the year - why not give their new homemade pizzas a try? By TORI WILSON.

ocated in the heart of Broome, the Roebuck Bay Hotel (affectionately known to all as The Roey) was built in 1890. It’s the town’s longest standing hospitality establishment and has been a place of food and entertainment for over a century, starting out as a haven for Broome’s pearling crews and pioneering workers. While it’s still a haven for the people of Broome, The Roey has received a few facelifts over the years to make sure it remains in good nick for its customers. A few new changes have recently been made to The Pearlers Bar and Bistro that are worth sharing.

The recently refurbished kitchen is now home to a brand new pizza oven that has already had its fair share of use due to highdemand. Head chef Humphrey Dan Het Schit says that the pizzas are flying out of the kitchen so fast that they’re accounting for half of the restaurant's orders. At $22 for a large pizza with a generous portion of toppings, word-of-mouth about this new addition is travelling fast. Pizzas aren’t the only new thing on the menu. The Pearlers have now updated the complete menu, with a catch-of-the-day chef's daily special included.

Saturday’s parmi night features three variations of a parmi served with chips and salad for $12. While every Sunday night you can sit in for a feast and live music for just $20. “The Roey Roast on Sunday nights goes from about 5.30 pm to 8 and we put on two roasts,” says Humphrey. “Usually it’ll be a leg of pork and either a roast beef, corn beef or roast turkey. We carve the meat for the guests and then the guests can help themselves from the bain marie with roast vegetables, roast cauliflower mornay, peas, gravy and bread.” If you’re wanting to enjoy your meal and the weather, grab yourself a pint and sit outside in their alfresco beer garden. Open from 11am to 9pm for lunch and dinner, The Roey’s Pearlers Bar and Bistro is your go-to for a wholesome local feed. The Pearlers Bar Bistro, 22 Carnarvon Street, Broome. Call (08) 9192 1221. Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

Eat Drink

Enjoy

A guide to eating out in Broome

MODERN AUSTRALIAN

ITALIAN

1861 RESTAURANT & BAR

CABLES RESTAURANT & BAR

THE WHARF RESTAURANT

1 Lullfitz Dr Cable Beach Map ref: D9

99 Robinson Street Broome Map ref: M16

08 9192 8088 | 08 9192 9500

End of Port Drive at Port of Broome Map ref: Y11 Bookings: 08 9192 5800; Gourmet Takeaway: 08 9192 5700

08 9192 9513 08 9192 9500 Breakfast Mon-Fri 5.30am-9am Sat & Sun 7.30am-9.30am Dinner Mon-Sun 6pm-9pm The restaurant serves up breakfast and dinner daily, with a scrumptious selection of starters, mains and desserts that are sure to tantalise the tastebuds. www.oakshotelsresorts.com

ZANDERS AT CABLE BEACH Cable Beach Reserve, Cable Beach Map ref: E8 08 9193 5090 Open Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner from 8am, 7 days a week. Zanders is the perfect destination to enjoy panoramic views of Cable Beach and Gantheaume Point whilst sipping on a cocktail, or enjoying your breakfast, lunch or dinner. Take away available. www.zanders.com.au

Breakfast Mon-Fri 7am-9.30am Sat & Sun 7.30am-10.30am Dinner Mon-Sat 5.30pm-8.30pm (A la Carte) A popular dining option open for breakfast, dinner and evening drinks, the restaurant offers indoor and outdoor dining and the opportunity to soak in the Cable Beach sunset views. www.oakshotelsresorts.com

CONTI RESTAURANT AND BAR Mercure, Weld Street, Broome Map ref: M16 08 9195 5900 Breakfast 7am-9.30am Dinner 6pm-9pm Come and try some of Broome’s best food, showcasing local produce with an international flair, in our fully air-conditioned restaurant, open all year round. www.mercure.com

Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm, Cape Leveque Road, Dampier Peninsula WA 08 9192 4283 Open Breakfast lunch and dinner - bookings essential. Gaze out from the sweeping verandahs of our licenced restaurant across the pearl farm and the Kimberley Coast. Taste the unique flavour of pearl meat whilst taking in the serenity with a beer by the pool! www.cygnetbaypearlfarm.com.au

PEARLERS

THE DECK POOLSIDE BAR & RESTAURANT

Kooljaman at Cape Leveque, Dampier Peninsula, 08 9192 4970

www.kooljaman.com.au

Cable Beach Club Resort and Spa, Cable Beach Road Map ref E8 08 9192 0411 The Cichetti Club is the place to come together and share a modern Italian meal with heart and flavour. Start your day with a freshly brewed coffee from 8:00am, share plates and lunch from 12:00pm and a traditional Italian dining experience from 6:00pm. www.cablebeachclub.com

CYGNET BAY RESTAURANT

RAUGI'S@CAPE LEVEQUE

Indigenous flavours, French style BYO. Breakfast 8-10am, lunch 11.30 - 2pm, 7 days. Dinner 6-7.30pm, Thurs-Mon. 7N June/July. Balaky's, Pizza & Soublaki Fri/Sat/Sun 7N June/July. Bookings 9192 4970.

Lunch & Dinner 7 days 10am-10pm The way seafood should be: fresh, local and simple. Alfresco dining with views over Roebuck Bay. Half price oysters daily 2pm-5pm. Classic fish and chips to flavoursome chilli mud crab. The Wharf offers an extensive local WA seafood selection. Fully licensed, ice cold beer and sophisticated wine list.

CICHETTI CLUB

Kimberley Sands Resort and Spa 10 Murray Road, Broome Map ref: F9 08 9193 8388 Open 7 days - bookings recommended. Breakfast 7am-10am All day dining 11am-6pm Dinner from 6pm Enjoy poolside dining at Broome’s only 5-star resort. Experience contemporary Australian cuisine prepared by our award-winning chef. www.kimberleysands.com.au

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

Dampier Terrace Map Ref: J18 08 9192 1221

Hours 10am-2.30pm Dinner 5:00 pm – 9.00pm Pearlers is the dining area of the world heritage listed Roebuck Bay Hotel offering a value for money menu, daily chef specials, live music and free WiFi. Locally caught seafood and fresh, seasonal WA produce is a speciality. www.roey.com.au

CAFÉ D'AMORE Jones place, Broome. Map ref: N14 08 9192 7606 Open Tuesday to Saturday from 5:30pm. Set in tropical gardens and serving simple rustic food, made from superb local produce, in a relaxed atmosphere. Our wood fired pizzas are sensational. www.cafedamore.co.au

THE BAY CLUB BAR & RESTAURANT MANGROVE HOTEL The Mangrove Resort, 47 Carnarvon St Broome Map ref: K17 08 9192 1303 Breakfast from 7am. Lunch/Dinner 11am til late. Stunning views over Roebuck Bay pair perfectly with a new contemporary lounging atmosphere. Open all year round, the Mangrove is also the perfect place to witness the “Staircase to the Moon”. www.mangrovehotel.com.au

visitbroome.com.au

BAR AND BISTRO BALI HAI RESTAURANT

Bali Hai Resort & Spa 6 Murray Road, Cable Beach 08 9191 3160 Open Wed-Sun from 12 noon. The Bali Hai Café captures the essence of Broome. Fresh produce and other high quality ingredients are used to create delicious food with an Asian twist. www.balihairesort.com

RUNWAY BAR & RESTAURANT

MATSO’S BROOME BREWERY

17 Carnarvon St, Broome 08 9192 8111

08 9193 5811

BROOME SUB BRANCH RSL

Cnr Robinson & Barker Sts, Broome Map ref: K16

60 Hamersley Street, Broome Map ref: L17

The Kimberley’s award winning microbrewery and a Broome treasure. Try their famous Mango Beer & Ginger Beer along with a variety of Seasonal Brews. Matso’s boasts its own Curry Chef, with the Curry Hut open 7 days a week in the courtyard.

Open 7 days a week 6am until evening Situated in the heart of Broome, Runway Bar & Restaurant has a spectacular airplane views. The experienced team of wait staff and Chefs specialises in culinary excellence, and are dedicated to making your dining experience a very enjoyable one.

www.matsos.com.au

08 9192 1003 Open 11am til late daily. Kitchen serving meals for lunch 11am to 2pm and dinner 5.30pm to 8pm. With a great bar menu plus Thursday is Pizza night, Friday BBQ night, Sunday is Roast Night from 5:30pm. Visitors and families welcome. president@broomersl.com.au www.broomersl.com.au

ASIAN DIVERS BISTRO 12 Cable Beach Road, Cable Beach 08 9193 6066

SUNSET BAR AND GRILL

AARLI BAR

Shops 1 and 2/16 Hamersley Street Broome (cnr Frederick and Hamersley Streets) Map ref: J17

THAI ORCHID 6 Hammersly St Broome Map ref: J17

1 Cable Beach Road W, Broome 08 9192 0470

08 9192 6147

08 9192 5529 Bistro open daily from 12 noon til late. Bookings for 10 or more essential. Divers Bistro at Divers Tavern, great food at great pub prices, featuring our sumptuous BBQ ribs and much more. 18 icy cold beers and ciders on tap plus an extensive wine list. Indoor and outdoor dining to suit Broome’s unique weather. www.diverstavern.com.au

Open 7 days 8am-late. Dishing up a range of delicious Asian inspired share plates and main meals, along with breakfast and lunch why not find out why The Aarli is a favourite for locals and visitors alike. Catering, functions also available. Fully licensed. www.theaarli.com.au

Relaxing at the Sunset Bar & Grill with the sun setting over the Indian Ocean is a truly memorable experience. Sunset cocktails can be complemented by our casual bar menu or you can enjoy an a la carte dinner from our grill menu. Open daily from 4:00pm. www.cablebeachclub.com

Thai Orchid Dine in and Takeaway restaurant proudly presents you with authentic Thai, Vietnamese and Indian Cuisine. All produce has been hand selected from WA and only the finest ingredients are used to create the tantalising dishes To view our weekly special please visit us on Facebook. www.facebook.com/thaiorchidbroome/

CAFÉ ZENSAI Cable Beach Club Resort & Spa, Cable Beach Road Map ref: E8 08 9192 0471 The Resort invites you on a culinary journey to Japan. ‘Zensai’ (meaning small pretty things) is open for dinner from Friday to Tuesday from 5.30pm until late. Create your own dining experience by selecting an array of dishes or simply order ‘Omakase’ - which means leave it to us! www.cablebeachclub.com

GINREAB THAI

Paspaley Shopping Cr Carnarvon St, Chinatown (next to Subway) Map ref: T15 08 9192 2533 Ginreab” in Thai means ‘clean plate’. The food is so delicious you will wish you could lick your plate clean! The true authentic Thai North theme runs throughout. Owner/Manager Jitsopin (Air) designs and cooks her own version of traditional Thai recipes. Ginreab Thai uses 100% local suppliers with some fresh produce even sourced from local Broome Gardens. See our website for full menu, about us and visit us on Facebook and Trip Advisor. www.ginreabthai.com.au

THE WHARF KOREAN BRUNCH End of Port Drive at Port of Broome Map ref: Y11 08 9192 5800 9am-noon, Friday to Sunday Korean Brunch Menu now available at the Wharf Restaurant. Traditional Korean sets featuring dishes such as Bimbimbap, Kimchi fried rice and Pork Kalbijim, all Served with Chefs Seaweed Soup, Kimchi and other Korean Specialty condiments. Please enquire to confirm times and availability. Available this season at the Wharf Restaurant.

KICHI KICHI Cable Beach Club Resort and Spa Cable Beach Road Map ref E8

08 9192 5462 Open 10am to 4pm 7 days April to October . Woodfired pizzas Fridays and Sunday. Pizzas daily July and August. Relax in the shade of the mango trees and enjoy our all-day menu which includes gluten free and vegetarian options. Our famous wood-fired pizzas available Friday and Sundays www.mangowine.com.au

THE MILLIE CAFÉ Cable Beach Caravan Park Millington Road 08 9192 2066

www.cablebeachclub.com

Shop 2/12 Carnarvon St Map ref: J17 08 9192 5512

120 Kanagae Drive, 12 Mile Map ref: T15

08 9192 0479

Kichi Kichi is a fun, fresh, contemporary Asian eatery. Think dumplings, baos, spicy salads and Asian-inspired cocktails. Share with family and friends in this vibrant setting.

GREEN MANGO CAFÉ

THE MANGO PLACE

Mon-Sat 7am-3pm Sun 7am-12pm Pop in for breakfast, lunch, coffee and cake. Vegetarian and gluten free options. Dine in or takeaway. facebook.com/The-MillieCafe-958420414195821/

7am - 4pm seven days a week. ocated in the main street of Chinatown, Green Mango Café is open for breakfast and lunch. It offers great coffee, freshly roasted in WA. A large selection of sandwiches, wraps and cakes, smoothies and freshly squeezed juices. Also gelato, made on the premises. www.wildmangocafe.com.au

PLEASE NOTE: The information contained in this section has been supplied by the individual establishments. The publisher cannot be held responsible for any information which is not accurate. You are advised to phone the places and check their opening hours and other details prior to a visit.

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

Eat Drink

&Enjoy

A guide to eating out in Broome

TAKE AWAY

CAFÉ

RUNWAY COFFEE CUBE Broome Visitor Centre, 1 Hammersley Street, Broome

HARVEST AT WILLIE CREEK Willie Creek Pearl Farm via Cape Leveque Rd 08 9192 0000 Opening hours seasonal, please contact us. Join us at Harvest, situated at the stunning Willie Creek Pearl Farm just 40kms out of Broome. Offering a selection of light lunches as well as cakes, coffee and cold drinks, a stop at Harvest is the perfect way to relax after adventuring around Broome and Willie Creek. www.williecreekpearls.com.au

THE ZOOKEEPERS STORE 08 9192 0015 Breakfast 7am-12pm (daily) Lunch from 12pm-2pm (Sat & Su) Dinner from 5.30pm-9pm (Thurs-Mon) Whether you’ll be relaxing by the pool or out for a day of exploring, start your day in Broome the right way – breakfast at the Zookeepers Store! Or join us for lunch and dinner, enjoy a taste of Broome and unwind as our staff take care of you. Craft beer, local WA wine selection and cocktails if you’re after something stronger. See you at The Zoo www.zks.com.au

PUB GRUB

Bookings: 08 9192 8111 Open Monday til Friday, 6am - 2pm Located out the front of the Broome Visitor Centre. Enjoy a bite to eat or one of refreshing drinks while you learn about all that Broome and The Kimberley have to offer. Serving coffee, homemade cakes, sandwiches fresh juices and smoothies. Should you feel like something more substantial pop down the road to the Runway Bar and Restaurant to delight your culinary desires.

MURPHY’S IRISH PUB Mercure, Weld St, Broome Map ref: M16 08 9195 5900

12pm-late. Get your Guinness fix here, showcasing good hearty food and the coldest beer in town Fully air conditioned. www.mercure.com

MCDONALD’S Cnr Napier Tce & Hamersley St. Map ref: J17 08 9192 6999 Open 24hrs a day, everyday. In air conditioned comfort, take advantage of our free Wi-Fi, a playground for the children, a wonderful array of cakes and coffees from McCafe as well as all your favourite McDonald’s menu items. www.mcdonalds.com.au

BLUEY’S PLACE FISH & CHIPS Cnr Frederick & Hamersley St Map ref: J17.............................08 9192 1747 CABLE BEACH DELI 4 Sanctuary Road Broome ................08 9192 7033 CABLE BEACH GENERAL STORE & CAFÉ Cnr Murray Road & Cable Beach Road. Map ref: F9 ........08 9192 5572 CAIRO CAFÉ Shop 7, 16Frederick Street Map ref: J17 ....................................08 9192 3283 DERBY WHARF RESTAURANT & CAFÉ 1 Wharf Road, Derby ............................................................................08 9191 2664 DOMINO’S PIZZA Hamersley St, Broome Map ref: J17 ............................................08 9192 2033 ECHO’S CAFÉ Shop 17, Paspaley Plaza, Carnarvon St Map ref: I16..........08 9192 7654 LAND OF THE PHARAOHS Paspaley Plaza, Carnarvon St, Map ref: I16 ............................08 9192 5512 LITTLE INDIA RESTAURANT Shop 3, Cnr Frederick & Hamersley Sts....................................08 9192 1697 MOLLIE BEAN COFFEE Japanese Cemetery, Port Drive Map ref: L12..........................0488 800 159 PEARLERS DAMPIER TERRACE Map ref: J18 ................................................................................................08 9192 1221 THE GOOD CARTEL Sun Cinema Carpark, 3 Weld St Map ref: J16 ........................0499 335 949

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

visitbroome.com.au

BREAKING

the fast

The best place to grab brekkie or brunch in Broome? Here's the lowdown. By GABI MILLS.

THE ZOOKEEPERS STORE Ever-popular, Zookeepers is perhaps particularly so at breakfast time. Situated in the grounds of an ex-zoo, the pretty surroundings (you’ll spot Broome birdlife in abundance in the trees), we love this cafe for its on-point brekkie boards. The headline act - Breakfast Board - is packed with treats including poached eggs, smoked salmon rillettes, prosciutto, creamy buffalo mozzarella, avocado smash, potato rosti,

sweet cherry toms and house made ciabatta. It’s the perfect brunch fill-up and great value for $26. If you’re slightly less ravenous, try the mushrooms on toast. A simple yet elegant version of a classic with garlic and thymeflavoured 'shrooms, little dots of whipped feta, poached egg and dukkah on that homemade ciabatta. Health-conscious? No problem. Try the acai power bowl - a mixed fruit smoothie with granola, chia seed, fresh fruit and coconut flakes. There’s overnight muesli too, packed to the gunnels with goji

berries, apple soaked in almond milk, Greek yoghurt, berry compote and chia seeds. Stay a while and enjoy a latte or a Karma Rama (orange, pineapple, mango, banana and passionfruit with an extra kick of Siberian ginseng) with one of the incredible croissants (they change every day). Brekkie in Broome is anything but boring at Zookeepers. 2 Challenor Drive. Call (08) 9192 0015 or visit zks.com.au. Open for breakfast from 7am to noon, lunch from noon to 2pm, 5.30 to 9pm (Thursday to Monday only). Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

IF YOU'VE GOT A LITTLE ONE IN TOW, THE LITTLE MANGOS MENU WILL SEE THEM RIGHT

GREEN MANGO CAFE The Green Mango is a cafe with proper chops - and by that I mean the guy behind the pots and pans really knows his stuff. Luke Sutherland is a chef with his eye on current foodie trends, so when you pull up a chair for breakfast at the popular cafe, you know you’ll be in for a treat. His Eggs benedict take the popular classic to another level with free-range pulled baked ham, sumac hollandaise, wilted baby spinach and poached eggs. Add smoked salmon for an added layer of decadence. He’ll use brioche buns for his EBC roll and swiss cheese with a house-made BBQ sauce. There are savoury waffles made from sweet potato and beetroot - colourful, delicious and innovative, served with labneh yoghurt 26

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

and a cranberry gremolata. Of course that borassic veg of the moment - kale - makes an appearance, this time with creamy sauteed mushrooms, poached eggs and smoky charred sourdough. If you’ve got a sweet tooth, there’s a cracking granola and if you’ve got a little one in tow, the Little Mangos menu will see them right. There’s a Wild Mango sister cafe in Kununurra and both venues serve a house blend of Dimattina’s ‘Espresso Bar’. “This blend is a strong dark European style coffee, showcasing a mysterious earthiness; thick and full-bodied with a creamy chocolate finish,” says barista Sara Happes. Enjoy a monthly coffee ‘special’ - carefully selected from blends and exotic single origin coffees. Shop 2/12 Carnarvon Street, (08) 9192 5512, open 7am to 3.30pm. Visit wildmangocafe. com.au.

THE MANGROVE HOTEL The Mangrove’s Bay Club is an airy spot overlooking Roebuck Bay, and as a place to head for breakfast, it’s hard to beat if you love eggs. There’s all sorts of varieties on offer from regular bacon and eggs with toasted sourdough, to pea, feta and quinoa fritters, topped with a poached egg, dressed greens and creme fraiche. Try the pesto mushrooms with creamy scrambled eggs or Spanish eggs - poached eggs cooked in a deep, tomato and capsicum sauce with plenty of sourdough to plunge into the eggs’ golden ooze. Add chorizo and you’ll want to go ‘Viva Espana’. Feel like some soul food? Then try the chia pudding - chia seeds soaked with tropical coconut almond milk and topped with a berry coulis and inseason fruit will do the trick. If indulgence visitbroome.com.au

is on your mind, then thepancake stack should suffice. It’s a three-stack delight with banana, strawberries, maple syrup and double cream. Take a stroll to the end of the hotel’s garden to walk off your brunch and you’ll find plenty of vista points to drink in Roebuck Bay’s incredible tides. There are cabanas and lounge-in day beds just asking for you to collapse in them under the Broome sun. Top tip: this is also the perfect place to watch the Staircase to the Moon, so turn up for brekkie on the right time of the month and stake your claim early as it gets super busy as the whole of Broome turns up for the special celestial performance. 47 Carnarvon Street, Broome. Call (08)

9192 1303. Open from 7am to 9.30am. Visit mangrovehotel.com.au

THE MILLIE If you're staying at Cable Beach Caravan Park, you’ll know all about The Millie Cafe. It’s right next door and is a relaxed space serving delicious breakfast, lunch, coffee and cakes. For brekkie, you’ll find the usual suspects: bacon and eggs (choose them your way), French toast served with mixed berries, ricotta and maple syrup (we ordered extra bacon too), eggs benny and Florentine and the best side order ever: home-made baked beans. Kids are looked

after too with a Nippers Brekky - bacon, egg and hash brown with toast for $10, pancakes or croissants. In fact this is a proper family-friendly spot wth changing facilities for babies and exceptional coffee. 8 Millington Road, Broome, open 7am to 3pm, Monday to Saturday, 7am to noon Sunday.

KIMBERLEY SANDS RESORT AND SPA Take some time out and join the luxe set at Kimberley Sands. The Deck is where you'll find a continental and full service breakfast options at the high end of the taste scale. Start with a fruit salad, with mint, rosewater and havla and if you're keen to keep it light, choose the coconut chia, toast, poached egg and avocado salsa. If all that lolling around the pool and tropical gardens has left you starving, I'd recommend going the whole hog with the house made beans, pulled pork, avocado salsa, fried eggs and chipolatas. That'll see you through to lunchtime when a cocktail or two will seal the deal. Vegetarians are looked after with a Mediterranean style feast: charred red peppers, fresh tomato, basil, poached eggs and pesto toast. The kids (big and small) will love a big plate of Belgian waffles topped with salted caramel ice cream, strawberry and chocolate sauce. If you're sticking to the continental option, you'll find all manner of sweet and savoury goodies as well as cereals, toast and yoghurt. 10 Murray Road, Broome. Call (08) 9193 8388. Visit kimberleysands.com.au

THE WHARF

START THE DAY Left, The Wharf's Korean brunch is one of the more unusual ways to enjoy breakfast. Above, The Deck at the Kimberley Sands offers a delicious range of treats.

The Wharf Restaurant, already well known for its high quality seafood, has wowed Broome with a new Korean brunch this season. A unique addition to breakfast dining options, The Wharf has brought on board a traditionally trained Korean chef to serve up beautifully presented dishes, such as the famous Korean rice bowl (Bimbimbap), a delicious savoury seafood pancake (Haemul Pajeon), traditional Korean spicy fried chicken and braised pork short ribs in a rich special sauce (Kalbijim). Only served at the weekend, all the meals are served as 'sets' with chef's special seaweed soup, kimchi (spicy fermented cabbage) and a collection of small side dishes to complement the meal called Banchan. There's a non-spicy option too for little ones - not to be missed. 401 Port Drive, Broome, call (08) 9192 5700, Korean brunch, weekends, 9am to noon.

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

BROOME

with a view By GABI MILLS & LISA SHEARON

If you’re booking a stay in Broome there’s plenty to choose from, whatever your budget. THE MANGROVE HOTEL Where: 47 Carnarvon Street, Broome Call: 08 9192 1303 Email: reservations@mangrovehotel.com.au You can tell that the owners of The Mangrove Hotel really know their stuff. They took a hotel that (let’s face it) had seen better days and completely reinvented the venue. From Cinders to Cinderella, now fortunate guests check in and find a slick operation, beautifully renovated rooms overlooking one of two pools and gardens, and a buzzing food and drink venue. We stayed during a Staircase to the Moon weekend by chance, and by mid-afternoon, front-row seats overlooking Roebuck Bay were filling up fast. There are plenty of 28

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

places to view this beautiful phenomenon but if you’re staying in the hotel in any case, you get first dibs on the prime spots if you’re smart. Order an expertly created cocktail from the bar and settle in for one of the world’s most stunning celestial shows. On any other day or night however, the Mangrove is carving a strong reputation for itself as one of the most chic venues in town, and a big part of that appeal is the sure hand behind the tiller in the kitchen. You’ll find modern takes on popular favourites like seafood risotto with prawns, clams and squid, or try a local speciality - grilled king threadfin with a refreshing rocket and apple salad. The Bay View Restaurant is the place to be seen too during the Broome races, with plenty of thirsty race-goers bringing their

own touch of glamour to the cabanas and sofas after a hard day at the turf. We enjoyed lolling by one of the two pools, reading and watching birds loop above our heads. Breakfast was delicious and it was hard not to watch the clock until lunchtime when we could feast on a shared board - try the Caribbean prawn fritters with ginger and mango mayo. Sensational. The hotel itself is a short stroll from Chinatown, or why not hop on a bus from the stop opposite reception and explore the town? The staff are endlessly friendly especially in our case Jack, the lovely young guy who picked us up from the airport and then went back again to swap the wrong luggage we’d grabbed off the carousel. Now that’s service, above and beyond. visitbroome.com.au

BROOME TIME ACCOMMODATION 1 Cable Beach Road East, Broome Call: 08 9194 1700 Email: stay@broometimeaccommodation. com.au Broome Time Accommodation offers 58 self-contained rooms, centrally located on the beautiful Broome Peninsula.

KICK BACK Far left, The Mangrove has been given a luxury new look. Left, Broome Time Accommodation is family friendly and above, Cable Beach Caravan Park's pool is popular.

Located opposite the Broome Recreation and Aquatic Centre the economy, cconomy family, deluxe queen, deluxe king and deluxe family rooms are set among established gardens with a well-respected art gallery nearby, featuring works from many Kimberley artists. Kids will love the semi-shaded, free-form pool and the whole family will make the most of the spacious outdoor garden dining area with free use gas BBQs. Broome Time’s knowledgeable and friendly team will be more than pleased to help with selecting tours of Broome and the Kimberley and can assist with car hire and personal recommendations for many of

Broome’s beautiful attractions. “Our friendly team is committed to ensuring that each and every one of our guests has an enjoyable stay and are always on hand should you need any help or advice during your time with us,” says general manager Dean Cooper. Just a couple of kilometres down the road you’ll find the beautiful white sands and turquoise waters of Cable Beach. Walk about a kilometre in the other direction and you’ll be in the heart of town with its diverse collection of shops, cafés and jewellery showrooms. Another kilometre further down the road is Broome International Airport, with regular flights to and from

Perth, Darwin, Port Hedland and other destinations. “Whatever the reason for your visit and whatever time of year you are planning to come, you will not find better value than at Broome’s Affordable Resort Accommodation near Cable Beach, or a friendlier welcome in the whole of Western Australia,” says Dean. CABLE BEACH CARAVAN PARK Lot 8 Millington Road, Broome 6725 Call: 08 9192 2066 Email: cablebcp@iinet.net.au Described as a friendly, old-style caravan park by owner Ron Beacham, Cable Beach Caravan Park receives plenty of repeat custom. Having offered high-quality, downto-earth sites for the past three decades, this is a caravan park with a true sense of community.

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

KIMBERLEY SANDS RESORT AND SPA - BROOME'S NEWEST 5-STAR RESORT CAPTURES THE ESSENCE OF THIS EXOTIC DESTINATION

STAY AND RELAX Top, enjoy breakfast at Oaks Sanctuary Cable Beach's restaurant. Above and right, The Billi's accommodation is super comfy and its pool a drawcard.

“We have people come back to the caravan park year after year after year,” Ron says. “They come to see friends and enjoy the wonderful climate and relaxed atmosphere.” Cable Beach Caravan Park offers both powered and unpowered sites – all set in picturesque, shady surroundings – along with a state-of-the-art swimming pool, convenience shop, children’s playground, barbecues, tour bookings, internet facilities, gas bottle refills, telephones, clean, modern showers and toilets, plus coin laundries and fish-cleaning station. Adjoining the caravan park is the muchloved Millie Café, a relaxed space serving delicious breakfasts, lunches, coffee and cakes. It’s open every day from 7am. 30

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THE BILLI RESORT 23 Coucal St (Lullfitz Drive), Cable Beach, Broome 6725 Call: 08 9192 1711 Visit: thebilli.com.au Named after Bilingurr – the local Indigenous name for the coastal area of Cable Beach – The Billi offers luxurious, self-contained accommodation in a stunning location close to Broome’s famous beach. Providing a range of self-catering accommodation including one- and twobedroom villas, studio rooms and ultraglamorous eco tents, The Billi combines the luxury of a resort with the convenience of home. Nestled under a superb canopy of trees and surrounding a stunning central pool area, The Billi is a unique, boutique-style

resort, quite unlike anything else on offer in Broome. “Because there are only 15 rooms, The Billi offers an intimate, personalised experience. Each of the villas is quite secluded, and our staff offer a personalised service. It’s a very different kind of resort,” general manager Bryce Guthrie says. “Of course, our self-contained eco tents are a fantastic phenomenon. Nestled in among the trees, visitors love their cosy interiors.” OAKS SANCTUARY CABLE BEACH 1 Lullfitz Dr, Cable Beach WA 6726 Call: (08) 9192 8088 Visit: oakshotelsresorts.com/broomeaccommodation/oaks-cablebeach/ This resort is well-named; the Oaks Sanctuary Cable Beach gives off strong visitbroome.com.au

WELCOME ONE AND ALL Left, The Oaks Sanctuary Cable Beach's flexible accommodation makes it easy to enjoy Broome. Below, the Kimberley Sands Resort and Spa is one of the town's most luxurious places to stay.

alfresco feast. We also loved cocktail night on Fridays in the pool-side bar, the friendly staff - an international collection of people from as far afield as Finland - and the nesting birds in the eaves of the hotel’s lobby just made us love this place even more. KIMBERLEY SANDS RESORT AND SPA 10 Murray Road, Cable Beach, Broome Call: 08 9193 8388 Email: info@kimberleysands.com.au

sanctuary vibes. Set off slightly from the road it's a lovely quiet little oasis of calm in the heat of the day. Giant palm trees shade the stairs that lead to the indoor/outdoor reception area, and just a few steps beyond, there’s a gate that leads to a large inviting pool area, that is actually three linked pools including one dedicated for kids, flanked with comfortable sun lounges, umbrellas and more palm trees. It’s a large resort with 27 studio rooms, 62 one-bedroom apartments, 46 twobedroom apartments, four three-bedroom villas and two three-bedroom villas with a private plunge pool. There’s free parking out the front of each and it is advisable to hire a car. The beach is a short drive away and if you fancy a change for breakfast, head over to the Zookeeper’s Store cafe, while Chinatown is just 4km away and

Broome town centre 7km away. We stayed in a two-bedroom apartment on the ground floor, giving easy access to the pool. The accommodation itself is spacious, tastefully decorated in neutrals and eminently comfortable. The bathroom was big and modern with a rain shower, and it’s so handy to have a washing machine and dryer. There’s a dining table and plenty of room to sprawl in front of the TV in the lounge; and the beds themselves were super comfy, hard to leave in fact. We stocked the fridge up with the essentials (wine, milk, butter) and during our stay we were able to decide whether to self-cater or eat out - a big plus if you’ve got kids along for a break or just want to relax after a hard day discovering dino footprints on the beach. There was a BBQ right next to our room too in the garden, perfect for an

Kimberley Sands Resort and Spa is Broome’s only AAA 5-star full service luxury resort, and prides itself in meeting the needs of both the luxury traveller and the business executive. You’ll find this lovely resort just minutes from the turquoise blue waters and white sands of Cable Beach. Broome’s newest 5-star resort captures the essence of this exotic destination, reflecting both Broome’s unique beauty and its ever changing contrasts. Whether your quest is relaxation, adventure, business or a little of each, you’ll find at Kimberley Sands Resort and Spa the right accommodation and facilities, with understated elegance as well as around-theclock personalised attention. The resort’s luxurious multi awardwinning 72 rooms and suites have a boutique feel, with rooms nestled around the Maxima Pool and the serene Meditative Garden. Take your daily exercise in the fitness room or the 25m lap lane, or simply lounge around on the sun beds surrounding the pool and let yourself be pampered by Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

the attentive staff. There’s a world-class day spa offering individual treatment rooms, LiTya Day Spa Dreaming products, Vichy shower treatment rooms and sauna. Other features include a fitness room and a tour desk to help you plan your Kimberley adventures. MANTRA FRANGIPANI 15 Millington Drive, Broome 6725 Call: 1300 987 604 Visit: mantra.com.au Located within walking distance of the white sands and fantastic restaurants of Cable Beach, Mantra Frangipani is an architecturally designed resort offering a variety of self-contained one-, two- and three-bedroom accommodation. Set among well-established manicured gardens, Mantra Frangipani offers peace, quiet and tranquillity. All apartments offer spacious living and dining areas, large bedrooms and a fully equipped kitchen, along with the resort’s signature private outdoor shower. Mantra Frangipani has two large, temperature-controlled swimming pools – including one with a waterfall – set in lush, tropical gardens. Large shade sails offer protection from the sun, while the gazebos and electric barbecue around the main swimming pool provide the perfect spot to end the day. Mantra Frangipani is only a 10-minute drive into Broome town centre or Broome International Airport, making it a perfect holiday or business location.

AUTHENTIC EXPERIENCE Top, Mantra Frangipani's gardens are gorgeous. Below, stay right on the beach at Kooljaman in a safari-style tent or beach shelter.

KOOLJAMAN Where: Kooljaman Cape Levee, PMB 8, Cape Levee, via Broome. Call: 08 9192 4970. Email: reservations@kooljaman.com.au or Visit kooljaman.com.au Kooljaman at Cape Leveque is a remote wilderness camp owned and run by the Indigenous Bardi Jawi Communities. Situated on native title land, the locals invite you to share the astonishing diversity, pristine wilderness and unique landscape that celebrate this award-winning place as a once-in-a-lifetime experience. The amazing wildlife, the vast array of marine life and the stunning coastline, makes this a truly unique experience. The owners have developed the camp in line with the community’s aspirations and their inherent knowledge of the land. Kooljaman has won numerous state and national tourism awards in categories for 32

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Indigenous tourism, eco tourism, unique accommodation and cultural tourism. There’s a wide variety of low-impact accommodation that has been specifically designed to capture the rugged natural character and beauty of Bardi Jawi country, and reflect the Aboriginal values of caring for land and country. Choose from a deluxe safari-style tent to beach camping shelters; it’s hard to think of a more authentic Kimberley coastal camping experience than the one on offer at Kooljaman. When it’s time to eat, visit Raugi’s

Restaurant which celebrates traditional flavours from the surrounding bushland, allowing you to experience the little-known unique flavours of Australia’s native foods. Using ingredients that you wouldn’t see in many other places and perhaps not anywhere else in the world, Michelintrained head chef Joseph McGrattan applies modern culinary techniques to local bush ingredients like the illarr and riberry, creating a truly unique culinary experience. Located overlooking the Western Beach with stunning views over the red pindan cliffs and breathtaking sunsets, Raugi’s at Kooljaman is ideal for those seeking to experience a real dining adventure. Dinner bookings are essential and bear in mind that the Dampier Peninsula is a restricted Dry Zone - Kooljaman does not sell alcohol although BYO is welcome with a corkage fee of $5 at Raugi’s. visitbroome.com.au

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RICH

PICKINGS

Michael Woodley looks forward to big catches as a new season of fishing adventures arrives for Absolute Ocean Charters.

e really are spoiled for choice up here with our fishing options! Reef, creek or pelagic, we have it all on our doorstep and it’s hard not to take for granted how lucky we are. Late season pelagic action will be good to the north of Broome as the season changes and the water starts to warm up. Sailfish will be about, along with all the other suspects including Spanish macks, northern bluefin tuna, mack tuna and the many varieties of trevally that exist in our Kimberley waters. Look for the flocks of birds that will give away the locations of fish feeding on the vast baitfish schools. If you have never caught a sailfish, get out on one of the charters that specialise in switch baiting for this awesome gamefish. Estuary fishing will also ramp up as the east winds subside and the afternoon sea breezes begin to kick in. Calm afternoon conditions in the creek systems can be a good option for a quick fish especially if it corresponds with a low tide. It can be a great way to avoid the wind and still get out on the water. The local Yaruwu

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calender suggests that as the Barragana season finishes around the end of August, salmon fishing should still be good for both threadies and blues. As we come into Wirlburu season (September) and Laja season (October and November) the calendar suggests good fishing for mud crabs and stingrays. Mud crabbing can be a great family outing, getting up the back of the creek systems and exploring the little inlets can be great on an incoming tide. The kids love pulling the pots and get pretty excited when a big

crab comes up - just be sure to get out before the tide runs out too far . . . it can be a long wait with the sand-flies if you get caught and more than likely a divorce if you have the wife and kids there too! We all know barramundi fishing will kick into gear with a bit of warmer weather. It’s always great to get onto one of these iconic Kimberley sportfish and they are reasonably accessible as they can be caught in most of the local creek systems or the Fitzroy River. A river trip is probably being the best bet. There should be lots of new holes and snags to explore after a good flush with fresh water during the last wet season. Be sure to take your rubbish with you and leave the place as you found it. Most of the Fitzroy river is accessed through cattle stations and owners have recently changed access rules due to vandalism, littering and people disrespecting the areas. The new rules mean people wanting to fish at Tumblegoodiron, Broken Water and the Lower Logue will need to register at the nearby Willare Roadhouse, leaving a deposit to be given a key to the gated areas. visitbroome.com.au

This might be something to consider if you are planning a visit. Reef fishing is probably the best way to get a few fish if you are looking to feed the family. Most of the reef species you are likely to encounter around the reefs close to Broome and the systems further offshore are likely to be good table fare. Water less than 30m will fish well for most species but it can be hard to get a bait past the blue line emperors sometimes. They are usually prolific in August and September and will take most baits. The flatter ground in 30m plus will usually see more of the ‘red fish’ including the red emperor along with a few of its close cousins. The smallest flare-up on the sounder can be worth a drop as you just never know what might be lurking below. It’s worth a mention that the sharks can be ferocious on hooked reef fish and it can be devastation pulling in a good fish only to be hit by the taxman. Tips to avoid your fish getting sharked would be to fish as heavy gear as possible so you can really put some pressure on the fish. Only do one drift over each reef then move on, the sharks are smart and know where to get an easy feed so don’t encourage

them to stay in the area. This can also work to your advantage as you are always looking for new spots to fish and fresh ground. Even with all the hours I have spent fishing the reefs around Broome I am still finding hidden gems with lots of good fish. Keep looking and keep learning. When people find out how long I have worked on the ocean I often get asked: does it get boring? My answer is no. There

is always something new to learn, a new technique to try and new people to meet. You have your good days and bad days, like in most jobs. But fishing never gets boring. Most charter operators run daily updates on their Facebook and Instagram accounts so give them a like or a follow to keep up with the latest catches and to see what’s biting. See you on the water. Visit visitbroome.com.au to book a fishing trip.

OCEAN'S HARVEST You'll enjoy a sensational day on the ocean with the friendly team at AOC, with plenty of opportunities to land some real beauties.

Broome ON A CANVAS Why not take home a little piece of Broome and the Kimberley in the form of a work of art?

Broome Gallery

Broome Gallery, 4/27 Dampier Terrace, Broome. Call 08 9193 5003 or email info@ broomegallery.com.au If anybody captures the intensity of Broome’s colour palette, it’s James Down, artist and owner of Broome Gallery. Well known for his whimsical paintings

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reflecting his love of Broome’s history and the Kimberley’s vibrant colours, James’s work is widely coveted. “I love listening to the stories from some of the older Broome residents,” says James. “It gives me the inspiration to create a huge range of paintings, adding historic buildings and the spectacular landscape of

Broome and the Kimberley.” You’ll find James’s paintings populated with familiar icons of the Kimberley and Broome; pearl luggers drifting off towards the horizon, a sturdy baobab tree standing sentry on the red land, camels striding along Cable Beach. James is happy to take commissions

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too, giving visitors to the region a unique memento to take home. In fact, he always includes his own dog, Oscar (above), in every painting; a kind of Where’s Wally search for fans of James’s work. “We found Oscar on Cable Beach about 12 years ago, he’d been left for dead. Now he’s a bit of a celebrity here in Broome,” says James. Talking of celebrities, Amy and Josh from My Kitchen Rules visited the gallery and said how much they loved James’s paintings. “They asked if they could use them for a show they were going on and it was wonderful to have such great exposure for my paintings,” says James. Fans of the show will have seen his large work – Broome – in the background during the popular series. “I’ve received commissions from the east coast as a result. We hope it will encourage people to visit Broome too.” Commissions are an important part of James’s work – and he loves to fulfil a client’s brief. “I can personalise paintings by adding

people, vehicles and pets into your very own painting.” Thanks to the changing scenery between the wet and dry seasons, James enjoys using oils to depict the drama nature unfolds before his eyes. “Broome – there’s no place like it.”

Suzy French

1 Gill Road, Broome Tel: 0418 936 915 suzy@suzyfrenchart.com.au/visit suzyfrenchart.com.au The driving force behind the Broome School of Art puts Broome and its surroundings front and centre of Suzy French’s working life as an artist. The incredible colour of the Kimberley can be found in her works, seeping out of the canvas or aluminium works, vivid and unforgettable. “I am passionate about the landscape that has been the backdrop to my fortunate life,” says Suzy. “I have lived in the Kimberley for over 25 years, and this is a land of extremes. I left my home in the hills of Perth and drove into

this part of the country in an old Holden as a 20-year-old. It broke down 250km south of Broome and I hitched the rest of the way with my dog, in the back of a ute.” During her time in the area, Suzy has lived in a variety of locations, drawing inspiration from each place as her artistic journey continues. “I have lived on Gogo Station and the famous Fossil Downs, Broome, Derby, and Fitzroy Crossing,” she says. “I have travelled extensively throughout the area by land, air, and sea. My journey with this country has been the inspiration for the work I create.” Suzy’s work is a perfect expression of Broome’s uniqueness, reflected currently in a new body of work she’s been creating – Beautiful Broome. “My eye is always drawn to the horizon line, what lies above, what lies below, and how does it relate, one to the other,” says Suzy. She works in oils on canvas and aluminium, and finds when working on canvas that she leans toward a more traditional landscape. It’s a different story

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HAUNTING IMAGES This page, Suzy French's work captures the ethereal essence of the Kimberley and Broome.

however when she turns to aluminium. “When I stand before a shimmering aluminium panel I find I have a freer hand and my landscapes take on a more representational form,” she says. “The panels are smooth with a high sheen from the intense, archival preparation. The paint relationship on this surface is different. The glow from the aluminium can be seen through the glaze of colour within these works. Each piece has been created within a masked boarder and shimmering strips of aluminium are left raw within the works.” It’s almost as if these panels come alive under lights, transforming the aluminium pieces into something altogether new and exciting. It’s not an easy way to paint – the process and preparation has taken a great deal of research, trial, and error, says Suzy. “I still feel the thrill of excitement as I stand before a shimmering panel and prepare to put paint onto metal.” Suzy works from her studio in Cable Beach and says she’s ‘fortunate’ – her partner has purpose-built “studio 2” to display her aluminium collection. “I paint Thursday through to Sunday and welcome visitors to come by, view the collection, and have a chat.” In conjunction with her own Studio 38

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Gallery, Suzy is once again working with Sara Dobson and the Shire of Broome to put together the Kimberley Collection, a fine art exhibition at the shire civic centre. This is an exhibition of art by professional artists who live in the Kimberley area. “This is an exciting time of growth and expansion in my career,” says Suzy. “I’m also currently working on a new collection

of large scale aluminium pieces that will be exhibited in 2018 in Broome, then travel in a mobile exhibition to Perth and through to Melbourne.” Suzy’s latest aluminium collection can currently be seen in Artopia Gallery, Kununurra. The opening night is on August 10 at 6 pm. the exhibition will run for ten days over the Broome Cup week. Her art can also be viewed and purchased online at suzyfrenchart.com.au , free shipping Australia wide.

Broome Time Art Gallery

Broome Time Art Gallery displays a wide variety of Kimberley art, traditional and contemporary Indigenous paintings and artefacts, wood and boab nut carvings as well as hand-crafted didgeridoos, books and gifts. The art gallery team work with many artists from the Kimberley region and

visitbroome.com.au

art prize award winner and an amazing storyteller who has worked with the Nomads Two Worlds Project. He has held exhibitions in New York, Berlin and the Netherlands. Most recently a featured artist with WA Police and NAIDOC Week 2017.

beyond, introducing visitors to the incredible talent that many artists working in this area display. “Throughout the year we also have artists in residence, working on exhibitions whilst staying at Broome Time,” says Dean Cooper, general manager of the art gallery. “This can be a terrific opportunity to purchase unique and beautiful artworks, but to also listen to the stories associated with the works, directly from the artist.” There’s a useful online art gallery shop where you can buy works of art after browsing the selection of works at your leisure - the perfect way to celebrate the artistry of this unique region.

FEATURED ARTISTS of

Broome Time Art Gallery PAUL BOON – Renowned didgeridoo player who performs for the Nomads Two Worlds Project and a very talented artist who works with and represents many talented Indigenous artists. A long-standing, well-known Broome resident, Paul previously owned and managed the very successful and iconic Old Broome Lockup Gallery for many years. EDWIN LEE MULLIGAN – also known by his traditional name Warrda Lumbadij Bundajarrdi – Edwin was born in Yakanarra, south east of Fitzroy Crossing and now resides in Nookanbah, a neighbouring community. Grandson of world-renowned artist Jimmy Pike, Edwin is a multiple

REGINA KARADADA – Also known as Gina, she is a Wunambal artist from Kalumbaru in the far north Kimberley region and is well known for her beautiful traditional works, often featuring the Wandjina and Guiorn Guiorn (Bradshaws), made famous by her family. LILLIAN KARADADA – Sister to Regina, Lillian is also a Wunambal artist from Kalumbaru in the far north Kimberley region. In the true style of Karadada painting, Lillian is also well known for her paintings depicting the famous Wandjina & Giourn Guiorn (Bradshaws) images that have been painted on Kimberley caves for thousands of years. For more info on artists or exhibition dates and openings, contact the manager at gm@ broometimeaccommodation.com.au

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

All aboard for discovery

Broome Whale Watching Tours will give you the chance to view some of Broome’s unique sea life up closer than you could imagine. By TORI WILSON.

f you would like to experience some of the best of Australia’s natural beauty, Broome is the ideal location. To gain the best vantage point for observing Broome’s gorgeous waters and rich marine life, book a spot on one of Broome Whale Watching Tours. On board their signature whale watching tour you can get up close to the ocean’s magical big blue beasts, while their Roebuck Bay Eco Tour covers the diverse and abundant marine life that inhabits the local waters, including the unique snubfin dolphin. Snubfins are an incredibly rare dolphin, named as a new species only in 2005. With between 2,000 to 3,000 in the world, they can only be found along the northern Australian coastline in small pods from Broome to Gladstone in Queensland. They’re unique, not least because they can turn their heads (unlike other dolphins) and they spit water to lure prey. Roebuck Bay is home to a relatively large number of these mammals, with around 170 adults paddling about in its waters on a daily basis. The Bay is a major feeding ground and nursery for the dolphins as well as dugongs, turtles and other marine life,

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which you learn all about on the Roebuck Bay Eco Tour. While the Bay has been named a marine park, at this time there is no sanctuary zone included which many locals hope to see put in place in the near future to protect the small population of this rare species. Covering all bases, Broome Whale Watching now offers a third tour, A Cultural Cruise led by Bart Pigram, who shares his wealth of knowledge on Broome’s history and cultural heritage. Bart is a local Indigenous tour operator who works in collaboration with Cameron Birch, the owner and operator of Broome Whale Watching. He offers an extensive three-hour tour on board Ballena, where he tells stories about Broome’s cultural history as well as his personal family history as a Yawuru and multi-cultural man, being of Pilipino and Aboriginal descent. “It’s a complete heritage tour and in that is the cultural importance of our identity,” says Bart. For an even richer experience of Bart’s local culture, he offers both music and food that’s significant to Broome. It’s an added bonus that Bart is a talented musician.

“I always try to make and exhibit a typical bush tucker or medicine,” says Bart. “I also try to provide some food, whether it’s local or traditional – multi-cultural food, such as a Pilipino dish, or even a bit of local gubinge.” Bart is an expert on the land and its cultural history. While cruising along he points out areas of significance and describes the different Dreamtime creation stories associated with various parts of the country, bringing out old maps for illustration. Not only is Broome steeped in both native and diverse multi-cultural history, but Roebuck Bay’s pearling history is also unique to Broome and Bart knows all about that too. “The Roebuck Bay side of Broome is the historical side,” says Bart. “It was the first place of Broome to be recorded in 1688 by William Dampier and the areas of Roebuck Bay were the highways for (pearl) luggers. visitbroome.com.au

NATURAL SPLENDOUR The chance to spot unique snubfin dolphins is just one of the things guests aboard a Broome Whale Watching tour will enjoy. Left, Bart Pigram is a local cultural expert and tour guide.

It was where the Japanese bombers came to attack Broome, and where the flying boat wrecks remain. So all that history is rolled into one area, which is Roebuck Bay and Dampier Creek.” Not only does this collaboration between Bart and Cameron make for a truly unique and engaging tour, but Bart says that it’s a physical and practical act of reconciliation that they’re embarking on. “There’s a lot of talk about reconciliation and a lot of people interested in it, but collaborations like this are actually doing it,” says Bart. “I think it’s a great example of how Indigenous and non-Indigenous tour operators in Broome need to be and can be working together.” To book a tour visit visitbroome.com.au

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

Galaxy

quest Space - the final frontier. But thanks to the Kimberley’s spectacular, pollution-free, clear skies and Broome astronomer Greg Quicke you can embark on your own journey through the heavens - without ever leaving the ground. By NORMAN BURNS. Images: COURTESY ASTRO TOURS

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reg Quicke’s destiny was written in the stars. And not in any wishy-washy astrological sense either; it was the intergalactic stuff that has helped shaped Greg’s life. After arriving in Broome from Queensland, Greg became a pearl diver, a tough job made even trickier by the Kimberley’s massive tidal fluctuations. And since the cycles of the Moon govern the tides, Greg could only dive on the smaller tides. Gradually he not only came to learn the precise tidal movements based on the Moon, but developed a “connection” between himself and the cosmos. And it was a connection that only deepened when Greg took on work as a mechanic, working at inland cattle stations around the Top End and the Kimberley. He spent many a night under a swag under a staggering canopy of glittering stars; a cosmic light show that lit the spark for Greg to get his teeth into astronomy, a passion

that burns bright to this day. Since 1995 Greg has been spreading that passion with Broome locals and tourists, the wide open spaces and dazzling night vista (Broome has more than 300 clear nights a year) providing the perfect stage for his Astro Tours. And what a stage it is. “Broome is located perfectly on our planet to see the best of both the Southern Hemisphere and the Northern Hemisphere sky,” says Greg. “We have the two best globular clusters in the sky, with millions of stars packed into each, we have two galaxies clearly visible to the naked eye and we have the best and brightest parts of the Milky Way galaxy displayed beautifully overhead all through our best stargazing season (April through November).” It’s the wonder of the experience that has many on the tours coming back time and time again, with Greg’s line-up of specialist telescopes (“some of these are

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seriously big telescopes requiring a ladder to get to the eyepiece; others look like they are suitable for launching small children to the Moon,” says Greg) and 50mm fully mounted binoculars providing awe-inspiring windows to the heavens. “We have a lot of regulars on the Astro Tours,” says Greg. “People keep coming back during the ever-changing year, as well as year after year. With an ever-changing sky, tuning in is a lifetime task. It is a real joy to watch people develop their own understandings and to see the stars shining out through them.” Greg’s fame has spread well beyond Broome and the Kimberley; earlier this year he was invited to participate in the BBC/ ABC show Stargazing Live with none other than rock star scientist Brian Cox. It was a smash, with social media going wild over Greg (and his flowing, silver beard) which earned him the nickname #spacegandalf. “The opportunity to hang out with Professor Brian Cox on Stargazing Live and to share my passion with a much larger audience is certainly gold in my life,” says Greg. “The response of people on my live shows is awesome and the feedback from the BBC audience in Britain and the ABC audience across Australia with twitter, Instagram and Facebook is equally palpable.” For Greg, giving people the chance to observe the cosmos in pollution-free, awe-inspiring surrounds is but one step in encouraging them to forge the same connection with the universe he himself has found. “Coming out with us once will give you a snapshot in time of our continuous journey through space. Coming regularly will build on this and reinforce what we started

Now on the BBC and ABC 'Stargazing Live' program with Professor Brian Cox.

together while adding in other elements that really can be gained only by you experiencing them through the passage of time. “To consciously experience this journey will literally take you ‘time’. Every year is different; the two giant planets are featuring through 2017, with Jupiter displaying the dance of its four big Galilean moons every night and Saturn’s rings in a perfectly ‘opened out’ position for unbelievable views through our serious telescopes. The monthly cycle of the Moon as it passes each of the planets in turn is one of the cycles that is particularly easy to tune into in Broome with our big tides easily illustrating its effect,” he says. Greg is reluctant to pick a single cosmic favourite. “Every star has its own character; they are unique as you and I. When you add to the feeling you get from them, their distance and their relative brightness, you can begin to appreciate our place amongst them. This feeling is one of peace, and wonder, and awe. “Naturally, I have a few favourites; Arcturus is the fourth-brightest star in the sky and, at 37 light years away (light travels at 186,000km per second, so light years are used to measure the vast distances in space) is a reasonably close neighbour of ours. It is also one of the fastest moving stars in the sky relative to the other stars - although you won’t see any of this movement in your whole lifetime.” With his fame now international, and the publication of his book Earth Turning Consciousness - an Exercise in Planetary Awareness, Greg has certainly come a long way from when he started “tuning into” the tidal movements for his job as a pearl diver. “My book is a response to the thousands

of people who have been asking for a followup journey they have begun with us at Astro Tours. It is a practical manual that you can use to see the very real movement of the Earth through space for yourself and make this journey real in your life. ‘Why didn’t anyone show us this before?’ is one of the most common questions we hear at Astro Tours,’’ says Greg. “Showing people from all over the world our world-class Kimberley skies is such a pleasure, with no need to tell them anything at all for them to be blown away by the sheer beauty. Watching peoples’ reactions is my favourite thing in the whole world and this is even before I tell them anything about what they are looking at.” For more information on Greg’s Astro Tours, and his book, visit visitbroome.com.au or call Greg on 0417 949 958.

'Broome's Astronomy Experience' or 'Quickies Cosmic Tuneup', is a 2 hour educational and entertaining mind bender using big telescopes, lasers and fun under some of the best stargazing skies on the planet. From April to October when the skies are clear! Bookings essential! Check the online schedule and book at

www.astrotours.net greg@astrotours.net 0417 949 958 Broome Issue@GregQuicke 17 | August#spacegandalf ~ November 2017

Voyage

of discovery

Hop on board one of Willie Creek’s Discover Broome bus tours and you’ll become an expert on the town’s rich history and culture. By GABI MILLS.

p bright and early, my Dad and me were the first to board the Discover Broome bus on a bright but blustery day. Dad, 82, and an avid traveller all the way over for a visit from Edinburgh, Scotland, couldn’t wait to find out more about the town we’d called home for a couple of days. I had been many times before, but never joined an organised tour of Broome. Today was the day to change all that. Willie Creek Pearls is a big presence in the town and beyond, and their Discover Broome tour is a popular option for all ages of traveller, keen to find out more about what makes Broome tick. Pearls are obviously a major part of the town’s history - and it’s sometimes not been a pretty story as we were to discover. First of all however we had to pick up all our co-explorers, and the friendly bus driver, who doubled as our expert tour guide, dropped by five or six hotels in town until the bus was full. Our first stop was perhaps the town’s most iconic address: Cable Beach. On the grassy foreshore there was life-sized bronze bust of one of Broome’s favourite sons: Sir Alistair McAlpine. We learned how, in the 1980s, the larger-than-life British aristocrat fell in love with the town. He saw potential in the remote seaside town and over the years invested $500 million, restoring crumbling old pearlers’ cottages and residences, fixing up the famous 100-yearold Sun Cinema and of course founding the Cable Beach resort and zoo. He also worked hard to promote the Australian South Sea

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pearl to a wider audience, as well as Aboriginal art. As we gazed at the statue, one of our party spotted something unusual about the bronze. “Oh yes,” said our guide, pointing to the feathered friend captured forever on his owner’s shoulder. “That’s his favourite parrot sitting next to him.” I think I would have liked Sir Alistair. So too, it turns out, did the Banfield family, founders of the Willie Creek Pearl Farm. The family formed a strong bond with the colourful lord, running a limousine and tour service in the 80s, and servicing his Cable Beach Club and Resort among other venues. Of course Cable Beach is so much more than just the site of a beautiful five-star resort. The beach itself is pretty special, 22km of pristine marine landscape reaching from Gantheaume Point to Willie Creek. It’s also the site of enormous tides (like much of the Kimberley), with the biggest showing a 700m difference between the high and low water mark. Back in the bus, we drove back in time - literally - to Gantheaume Point.

The first thing that strikes you about this extraordinary place are the colours. It’s as if the landscape, sky and sea have had their colour saturation turned up to the max. The pindan reds, azure blues and intense aquas assault the senses, and it’s easy to see why the point is a significant Indigenous site as well as a drawcard for visitors. It’s also an exposed spot so the few properties located there are cyclone-proof. One of the most important of those is a lighthouse, erected in 1906 alongside a lighthouse keeper’s cottage, an essential lifesaving construction to keep the pearling fleets safe. There are many reefs and rocks which claimed the lives of those at sea, so a lighthouse was essential. Nowadays, the new stainless steel lighthouse stands proudly, home, we spotted, to a family of big sea birds. The nest improbably hung half way up, well out of harm’s way - if not entirely secure from the elements. What really makes Gantheaume Point special however is evidence of creatures even bigger than the sea eagle. Footprints from the Cretaceous period (that’s 130 million years ago) are still visible. You’ll see (replicas of) three-toed tetrapod prints visitbroome.com.au

and huge round sauropod prints. Dad was impressed that something even older than him was walking on this pindan point. We saw the Broome Turf Club too, where camels - as well as horses - race from June til September. Broome’s beginnings weren’t especially auspicious. Named after Sir Frederick

Moon phenomenon. If you’ve got time, join a boat tour of the bay; if you’re lucky you’ll spot snub nosed dolphins (they can turn their necks unlike other dolphins), turtles and other dolphins coming up right next to boats. The sea has always been an important part of Broome’s story but managing those

FASCINATING TOUR Join a Discover Broome tour and you'll learn all about the town's rich pearling history as well as wildlife and cultural facts. Below, the Japanese cemetery.

Napier Broome, Governor of WA in 1883, you’d think that lending your name to one of the world’s moist desirable spots would be something to celebrate. Not so our Sir Frederick. After a visit to the town which would bear his name, Sir Frederick so disliked it he demanded his name be removed. His request was denied, and Broome remained its name for all time. Back in the bus we passed the golf course, the highest point in Broome, and a green and fertile place thanks to a clever use of treated sewage to water the course. We drove past Roebuck Bay, a mindboggling place where the tides defy belief and where, several times a year, the whole town gathers to watch the Staircase to the

tides has been something of a challenge, especially in terms of allowing big ships to dock. At the port, we heard the story of how the original jetty was extended to replace the original Town Beach wooden jetty, built in 1887. The new deep water jetty allows large cruise and container ships to dock, where in the past, flat bottomed boats were the only ones that could unload close to shore. The mood darkened a little as we approached our next stop: the Japanese cemetery. The pearling industry in its early days was a brutal one, claiming many deaths from the ‘bends’ (when divers didn’t decompress at the correct rate), getting caught in terrible weather conditions and accidents. We learned how many Indigenous

women - often pregnant - were forced to dive for pearls, their extra ‘ballast’ proving a special bonus. It was a tragic story as many died and were horribly exploited at the expense of the Pearl masters’ desire to collect larger hauls. At the cemetery itself we passed silently between the 700 or so headstones, memorialising Japanese divers from 1850 to today. I was fascinated to learn that those buried nowadays in the cemetery must be direct descendants of the original Japanese hard helmet divers. It was extremely moving, standing at the foot of the sandstone tombstones, each inscribed in Japanese script, a simple testament to a punishing industry. Moving on to Town Beach, we drove past some of McAlpine’s restored pearling houses, the white fencing a giveaway that Sir Alistair had made them habitable once more. The scene of Broome’s World War II involvement, Town Beach had offered shelter to some flying boats which were machine gunned by the Japanese. Eighty eight lives were lost and, at low tide, it’s still possible to see the skeletal remains of some of the flying boats, otherwise forever remaining in situ in the bay’s mud. We passed a 250-year-old boab tree before taking a peek inside Matso’s - now a pub, but originally the first Union bank in Broome. It’s also moved from its original spot in Chinatown, but Lord McAlpine (yes, him again), moved the entire building to its current site and restored it. Drop in for one of the micro-brewery’s famous ginger beers and a curry. Delicious. We’re nearing the end of our tour now as we trundle into Chinatown, the heart of Broome. The definition of a melting pot, this part of the town was home to the labour force for the Mother of Pearl industry, drawn from all over Asia and beyond. In its hey day, brothels, gambling houses, opium dens and drinking houses made this a pretty wild spot. With over 400 pearl luggers tied up between Chinatown and Town Beach, Broome was a boom town. Things may have quietened down now, but if you close your eyes, it’s not hard to imagine what a vibrant place it must have been when the luggers were in town. We end up, appropriately enough, at The Pearl Luggers, for a delicious Pearling Masters High Tea. Dad and I learned so much in our twoand-a-half hour tour of Broome, diving into a town so rich in stories it’s surely time for a return visit. Visit williecreekpearls.com.au for more details on the Discover Broome Tour. Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

Cup of dreams The Broome Cup is one of the sporting highlights of the north west. Norman Burns reports on the race that stops the region. Images: SIMON MERRITT / WESTERN RACEPIX

he Melbourne Cup may well be the race that stops a nation but the Broome Cup is definitely the race that fires up a town. From humble beginnings when just a handful of gallopers battled it out, the Cup - or

more specifically, the Broome Cup Carnival - is now the number one social event on the town’s calendar, attracting thousands from around WA, interstate and internationally, including a posse of A-list celebrities. The carnival generates a massive visitbroome.com.au

economic flow-on effect for Broome and the Kimberley, as many punters extend their stay to enjoy the myriad tourist attractions the region has to offer - or maybe just to soak up that beautiful winter sunshine. “Back in the 1980s there were only six race meetings, with the Cup being held in the middle of the July school holidays,” says shire president Ron Johnston. “Being very active in tourism via Ansett and tourism organisations, I suggested that they take the Cup out of school holidays and create another event.” The idea prompted vigorous debate but there’s no doubting now it was a masterstroke; the Cup is now held in midAugust (this year on Saturday, August 19) and upwards of 7,000 race fans are expected to flood into Broome for the carnival, the pinnacle of the Broome Turf Club’s 12-week racing season. Colourful Broome identity, publican and bookmaker Mike Windle knows better than most just how far the Cup has come in the past three decades and what it now means to the town and surrounding district. Originally from New Zealand, Mike (he goes by the memorable nickname ‘Swindle’) has been on the Broome Turf Club committee for the past 20 years, and is currently vice chairman. He was awarded life membership of the club this year. “I came to Australia for the 1970 Melbourne Cup with connections from the

“There were 16 horses for the whole meeting; today we have 150 horses, all staying at the course known as the Gypsy Camp,” he says. Mike, like all on the Turf Club committee, is rightly proud that the $135,000 Cup is now the highest Cup stake money race in WA outside the metro area and regularly lures quality horses and trainers. “Perth premiership trainers Adam Durrant and Lou Luciani have both won Broome Cups and we also attract the A-list including Julie Bishop, Andrew Forrest, Kerry Stokes and others. The show can’t be too bad, as the A-listers have plenty of other options,” he says. Swindle has also come close to capturing the Cup himself. “I had a starter called I’m Desperate in the 1986 Broome Cup (fourth) and I ran

Broome and then went on to win numerous races in Perth and at one stage was pre-post favourite for the Railway Stakes,’’ he says. At the time of going to press, the Cup field had not been finalised but Swindle has some succinct advice in the lead-up to the big race. “My tip for all punters is just to get to Broome and join in the party.” Ron Johnston agrees: “Book early and stay for a fortnight.” The 2017 Broome Cup will be held at the Broome Turf Club on Saturday, August 19. On August 15 the spectacular course at Gantheaume Point will hold the equally spectacular Ladies Day. For information on membership, admission prices and hospitality options, visit broometurfclub. com.au or phone (08) 9192 2085.

Didham Stable at Wingatui, near Dunedin,” says Mike. “I had $30 on Bagdad Note at 25/1 which funded a trip to Western Australia - the rest is history.” He has vivid memories of the Cup when he first settled in Broome.

second in the 2008 and 2010 Cups with Tearinup the Country,’’ he says. But he rates the 2002 victory of local horse Jarnot, trained by Broome’s Phil Grantham, as his most memorable Cup to date. “This horse won all of his seven starts in

HOT HOOVES Join in the fun and excitement at the Broome Cup (above). On Ladies Day, racegoers get dressed to impress as they watch their hot tips fly past on the race track.

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

Giddy up Bev and Nic from popular Perth fashion and lifestyle blog The Style Trust love Broome, and are big fans of the Broome Cup, so we asked for their help to put your best fashion foot forward this Cup Day.

hat’s not to love about Broome in winter? As soon as you get off the plane, the sweet smell of frangipanis wafts by, you can feel the heat thawing out your bones and you relax right on in to Broome time. We’re big fans of the Broome Cup and have been lucky to go a few times, but if this is your first time our Broome guide should help you find everything you need to be a fabulous filly. Got your outfit, but your hat got squashed on the plane, or worse still you forgot it all together? Then why not improvise and get some gorgeous flowers to put in your hair or a flower crown from Broome Florist? Problem solved. Call 9192 7034 or find them at thebroomeflorist.com.au We don’t know about you, but we feel like manicured nails and toes finish off

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

visitbroome.com.au

GLAM SQUAD Above ((l-r) Rayne Embley, Nic, Bev, Tanya Wall, Kathryn Sprigg, Sarah Langley. Right, Bev and Nic try on some fancy pearls at Allure’s new Subiaco showroom.

every outfit, but it’s always the last thing we think of. Never fear, you can get your hooves filed and buffed in style right here in Broome at Ocean Breeze Nail and Beauty Spa. Shop 1 Boulevarde Shopping Centre. Call 9192 7678 to make an appointment. Don’t miss the chance to come to Broome and go home with a stunning pearl piece to remember it all by. We love to play in Broome’s pearl shops and Allure South Sea Pearls is one of our faves. Why not treat yourself to a little something something; let’s face it, you’re worth it and you’re on holiday. Nic is a big fan of Allure’s stunning chokers and Bev loves a good pearl ring. 25 Dampier Terrace, Broome or visit alluresouthseapearls.com.au Had an outfit emergency? Whatever your dilemma, you’ll find something new to wear at Azure Beach and Resort Wear. You’ll find gorgeous little Camillainspired kaftan dresses in both maxi and mini varieties, jumpsuits, off the shoulder numbers and more bikinis than you can poke a stick at here. In fact, every time Bev Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

goes to Broome, something from Azure ends up coming home with her, outfit emergency or not . . . Johnny Chi Lane Chinatown, Broome or visit azurebeach.com.au Last year we stayed at Cable Beach Club Resort and Spa, there were four of us and we shared a bungalow. Before any of us were allowed to down tools and hit the pool or bar, we went to the supermarket and stocked up on water, breakfast items, fruit and healthy girly snacks. It sounds boring to be prepared we know, but trust us, your post Broome Cup hung over self will thank you no end. Broome Boulevard, 106 Frederick Street, Broome. broomeboulevard.com.au If you love a good party (and trust us, we do) make sure that you know how you’re getting home. If there’s no bus organised from the Cup back to where you’re staying, then a taxi is your best friend. Note to self: put these numbers in your phone immediately. Broome Taxis: 9192 5252 or 0408 921 133; Chinatown Taxis: 9192 5303.

top tip

TST’S BROOME

aving a cocktail at the Sunset Bar while watching the warm Broome sunset fade is definitely our top holiday tip. It’s a must. It’s also the perfect spot to watch the camels wander back from their beach tour. Cheers! Follow Bev and Nic’s adventures at thestyletrust.net

KIMBERLEY WILDERNESS LODGES For the self-drive traveller

Boasting the best locations and offering a touch of luxury, APT’s unmatched network of private wilderness lodges are the perfect indulgence in the Kimberley. • Located at the Bungle Bungle, Mitchell Falls and Bell Gorge • Includes breakfast, 3-course dinner and tented cabin with private ensuite

Lodges are open seasonally May to September ASK ABOUT OUR SPECIAL DEALS 50

ORDER YOUR FREE BROCHURE TODAY

Vist kimberleywilderness.com.au or call 1800 240 504 or see your local travel agent

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

*Conditions apply. Australian Pacific Touring Pty Ltd. ABN 44 004 684 619. ATAS accreditation # A10825.

visitbroome.com.au

2016 Gold Adventure Tourism

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

Cast

AWAY

roome has so much to offer, from beautiful beaches, stunning sunsets and camel rides to iconic ginger beer and fantastic weather. But above all, Broome’s got fish. Lots and lots of fish. No one knows this better than Fish Broome owner Mark Harris: “Broome is a haven for anglers, and a must-do activity whilst visiting,” he says. “We have a massive variety of top species, and boy can our fish get big. “The dilemma, however, is that you need to get on the water to do so.” Luckily, Mark has come up with the perfect charter solution: Fish Broome. Now, Mark combines his two great loves on a daily basis: recreational fishing and the pristine waters of the Kimberley. “Fish Broome is your fishing charter of choice,” he says. “When it comes to getting out on pristine waters and catching the Kimberley’s foremost fish, make sure you do

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

Book a spot on board Rare Breed II and you’ll have the time of your life fishing Broome’s bountiful waters. By LISA SHEARON.

it with Broome’s foremost fishing charter.” Fish Broome offers unique fishing trips, which Mark believes are incomparable. Whether as part of a half-day charter, fullday charter or private charter, the tours take place on board Rare Breed II, a purposebuilt, 45-foot charter boat that is able to quickly reach proven fishing locations. All tours include courtesy pick-up in an air-conditioned bus – the full-day charter covers fishing grounds 20-40 nautical miles offshore, while the half-day tour includes fishing grounds 10-20 nautical miles offshore. The private charter – great for corporate functions, birthdays and Christmas parties – can be tailored to requirements, with a maximum of 12 people on board. All fishing gear is provided, including rods, reels, tackles and bait, and the day’s catch is cleaned and bagged ready for clients

to take home. Meals and soft drinks are also provided throughout the tour, as well as an Eski filled with ice for any BYO alcohol. “We boast a stunning, purpose-built jet boat that glides through the unspoiled waters of the Indian Ocean to get you on Broome’s top fishing grounds,” Mark explains. “We provide an array of fishing charter options including reef fishing, trawling, bill fishing, creek fishing and even shark fishing! “Along with our extensive charter range, we include pick-ups and drop-offs, lunch and snacks, drinks, rods and reels, tackle, bait and Ice. We also gut and gill so your fish are barbecue ready, just wrap in foil and add some lemon and oil!” Fish Broome’s staff are all highly experienced and live for being out on the water. “Their passion and knowledge guarantee you the perfect fishing experience, regardless of your own time spent on the rod,” Mark adds. So, whether you want to take on some monstrous mackies or go smash an endless array of delicious reef species, make sure you do it with Fish Broome. “We know the spots, we know the fish and we know it will be the best day you’ll ever have fishing in Broome.” Fish Broome Charters operates in Broome throughout the year. For more information, and to book, visit visitbroome.com.au or call 0499 333 179 visitbroome.com.au

Under the sea

Aqua Broome provides a new way for visitors to explore and understand the world beneath Broome’s waves. By LISA SHEARON.

hanks to a brand new, multimillion-dollar aquarium, Broome visitors can finally catch a glimpse of the vibrant and diverse environment below the sea. “Aqua Broome public aquarium is your gateway into the watery worlds that surround Broome and the Kimberley region,” operations manager Danny Christensen explains. “The vast variety of aquatic species found around our part of the world is simply astounding,” he adds. “We have the most diverse selection of fish species, boasting vibrant colorations, in all shapes and all sizes. “The beauty of Aqua Broome is that the only thing dividing you from these magnificent animals is a panel of glass.” Until now, it’s been tricky to view the wonders of the region’s oceans – a big factor behind Aqua Broome’s creation, says Danny. “Broome has a lot to offer when it comes to nature. Thanks to our arid environment and tropical climate, the local ecosystems

are both unique and beautiful. Our aquatic environments, however, are a little harder to delve into. “Thanks to a combination of massive tides, poor visibility and dangerous inhabitants, one doesn’t often have the opportunity to discover what extraordinary things dwell beneath our iconic turquoise waters . . . well, until Aqua Broome.” The aquarium is stage one of the Aqua Broome project, and is home to around 1,000 fish in display tanks designed to replicate local ecosystems. “Aqua Broome public aquarium provides an array of purpose-designed aquarium displays, dedicated to aquatic life found around Broome and the Kimberley. “We have modelled these displays on iconic environments and locations from around the region, such as Broome Jetty, Gantheaume Point, Manari Reef, Mangrove habitats and Kimberley creeks. “The systems swarm with local species such as tropical snappers, estuary cods, coral trout, tuskfish, angelfish, barramundi,

trevally, wrasse and much more.” According to Danny, Aqua Broome intends to offer much more than just a viewing platform: “Seeing these creatures is not enough. That’s why at Aqua Broome you will always be provided with an extensive tour of our facility by knowledgeable and passionate staff. “We provide you with the ultimate indepth and personal approach, to ensure you leave Aqua Broome with new insight of our region’s most beloved aquatic environments.” Aqua Broome is also the proud home of Chelonia, the turtle and aquatic reptile rehabilitation charity based in Broome. Chelonia nurtures injured and sick turtles back from the brink, to live a full and happy life back in the ocean. Aqua Broome, Site 6, Murakami Road, Broome Tropical Aquaculture Park Visit visitbroome.com.au

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

Winning

ways

The Australian Pearl Jewellery Design Competition is set to stun once again as the nation’s most talented jewellers compete to design the most beautiful Australian South Sea pearl creations.

earls truly are ‘classic’ in every sense of the word. Synonymous with purity, grace and grandeur, these masterpieces of nature have a versatility that goes way beyond a simple strand. What might happen, then, if some of Australia’s most talented jewellery designers were invited to create modern and unique pieces of jewellery using Cygnet Bay Australian South Sea Pearls? The answer lies in a collection that’s nothing short of spectacular. To continue to invigorate the way pearls are perceived and worn today, Cygnet Bay Pearls created The Australian Pearl Jewellery Design Competition. This exciting concept placed stunning Australian South Sea Pearls, direct from Cygnet Bay Pearl farm, into the hands of talented designer jewellers eager to create unique and wearable pieces for a contemporary market. Creating an innovative jewellery design competition in 2016 based around a single gem from a single source was a first for Cygnet Bay, Australia’s oldest pearlfarming business, but the idea attracted an immediate and incredible response from within the Australian jewellery community. Industry marques such as Pallion and Jewellery World Magazine were quick to support the concept and organisers received more than 50 entries in the competition’s inaugural year. One of the requirements for jewellers to consider was that the piece must be wearable. Three independent judges studied each entry before allocating points based on innovation, originality of design, quality of workmanship and, most importantly, the ability to showcase the hero of each piece; the Australian South Sea Pearl. Judge and fashion advocate Catherine Birch remarked that it was no easy feat

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

to select the winner as the “entries were because from the outset she was the remarkable, so diverse and exquisitely recipient of an “absolutely stunning” kick crafted”. start pearl. Drawing inspiration from the The winning entry was created by luxury and modernity of the Art Deco era, Renee Blackwell in Harmony House, her Adina created an 18ct white gold ring which solar-powered rural Queensland retreat. she named Fitzgerald in honour of the South Sea Dreaming, an 18ct yellow gold famous flapper Zelda Fitzgerald. Features and sterling silver ring, features a stunning include champagne, white and tapered pearl as its centrepiece. Renee drew textural baguette diamonds which, with no base inspiration from the ocean, sand and under the pearl, confidently frame the gem bamboo to create her unique wave-shaped in its setting. cocktail ring. Later, she paid tribute to the 2017 sees the introduction of two new gem, saying she had “never worked with categories: the Handmade Award aims to such an exquisite pearl before” and was “so recognise the technical skills required to eager to make it into a beautiful piece of accomplish a completely handmade piece, jewellery”. while the establishment of an International Apprentices, too, were encouraged to Award offers overseas designers the chance bring their ideas to the competition, open to to create their own masterpiece around a fine arts and design students or apprentices Cygnet Bay Pearl. Visit cygnetbaypearls.com.au. in their fourth year or below. Entrants in this category were required to make all components of the piece themselves and VOTE in the end it was Yuki Mathwin’s work & WIN! Sea Chimes which Yuki says “captures

People’s Choice Award

The public are invited to vote for their favourite design in The Australian Pearl Jewellery Design Competition.

Voting will be open to the public from September 4 and closes on September 22 at midnight. You can vote by visiting the Cygnet Bay Pearls Broome Boutique Showroom in Dampier Terrace during trading hours or online at cygnetbaypearls.com.au the essence of cool sea breezes on a hot summer night” and makes a soft jingling sound, which caught the eye, and ear, of the judges. The People’s Choice Award category attracted thousands of votes, cast both online and in person at Cygnet Bay’s Broome Boutique. In a tight race, Adina Jozsef from New South Wales was declared the ultimate winner. Adina reveals that she believes she “actually had two wins” in the competition

All voters will go in the draw to WIN a trip for two from any Australian capital city to Broome and two nights’ accommodation at Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm. There will be Cygnet Bay Pearl jewellery to be won as well. Complete competition conditions will be on our website once voting begins.

Good luck!

visitbroome.com.au

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

Tides of

change The legendary giant tides of the Kimberley are a sight to behold – and you can join a tour with Cygnet Bay’s Sea Safaris.

ave you ever wondered how it’s possible to predict tides years in advance, to within a centimetre? Well, the short answer is: Isaac Newton. It was the discoverer of gravity who, while postulating all sorts of fundamentals, told us that ocean tides resulted from the gravitational forces of our two greatest celestial neighbours, the sun, and, more importantly, the moon. Fast forward some 330 years and most of what Newton predicted has stood the test of time. However, science has helped us to understand tides a little bit more. It has allowed us to understand why places like the Severn Estuary in the UK and the Bay of Fundy (Canada) have the

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

largest tides in the world. Some of these contributing factors are the geography of the coast (for instance large bays with small bottleneck entrances are conducive to larger water movements), the proximity to the continental shelf, water depths from continental shelf to landmass, things that get in the way of water flow (like islands, reefs or canyons), and finally the proximity of landmasses to one another (for instance, Australia and Indonesia). The Kimberley is now regarded as having the largest tides in the world by volume of water. It is also known to have the fastest tidal currents in the world. On a big spring tide, among the islands of the Buccaneer archipelago, the seething whirlpools and standing waves are one of the great natural sights on the planet. You only need to look at a coastal map of the Kimberley to understand the tides and the human connection. Names such as Whirlpool Pass, Point Torment and the Graveyards tell their own tales of man’s trials with this ‘fickle mistress’. Cygnet Bay’s Sea Safaris allow visitors

to the Dampier Peninsula a chance to explore the Giant Tides of the spectacular Kimberley Coast - a place where tides of up to 13m create standing waves and whirlpools as they push their way through the islands of the Buccaneer Archipelago off the tip of the peninsular's tip. The original people of this part of the world skillfully navigated these waters for millennia using the galwa (raft) for hunting turtle and dugong. Their knowledge of the tides, the currents and navigation by the stars was unsurpassed. Today, the descendants of those ancient people still enjoy their ancestral waters, their lives still determined by the tides that Newton so deftly described three centuries ago. The Sea Safaris offer experiences which tell the different stories of the tides – the standing waves and whirlpools of the spring tides in the Giant Tides Tour, the gentle flow of the water during the smaller neap tides on the scenic Island Explorer Tour and of course the Waterfall Reef Tour, which takes in nature's spectacle of a waterfall emerging from the sea. visitbroome.com.au

NATURALLY AMAZING During a Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm Sea Safari, guests will witness some extraordinary sights including Pearl Passage and King Sound.

11-13 AUGUST 2017 Tours depart from the land base at Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm, with transfers using the amphibious Sealegs vessels. Guests are then transferred to their tour vessel, a 12-seater rib with twin 250hp engines, ideally suited for the tides of the area. Cruising through the pearl farm and along Joligo Beach to One Arm Point, the islands of the Buccaneer Archipelago come into view. At Pearl Passage the Kimberley’s extraordinary geological past becomes apparent - Pearl Passage is actually a fault line on the edge of the Canning Basin which runs all the way down to the Pilbara. The islands we see on the tour are actually the tips of ancient mountains – 15,000 years ago the coastline was 150km further out to sea on the continental shelf. When the ice caps melted, the sea level rose over the shallow shelf and flooded the low-lying areas and valleys, in turn creating the King Sound. The tides are particularly large here due to the geography of the area, so when the sun and the moon are aligned on a full or a new moon every two weeks known as the spring tide, it pulls the ocean towards the north west of WA and Indonesia, speeding up as it hits the shallow continental shelf then bottlenecking as it passes between Australia and Indonesia, creating the effects seen on the tour. Visit visitbroome.com.au

BROOME’S SIXTH ANNUAL WRITERS FESTIVAL - Author Conversations - Panel Discussions - Love Story in 10 Words Competition - Spoken Word - Play Reading - Screen Writing - Short Story Writing - Poetry - Visual Story Telling - Song Writing - Art Installations - and more! Guests include Bruce Pascoe,Kim Mahood, Sarah Drummond, Dan Lee & others More details can be found on the dedicated Corrugated Lines facebook page www.facebook.com/CorrugatedLines and the Backroom Press website www.backroompress.com.au or get in touch at corrugatedlines@gmail.com

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

Living memories

It’s the people - past and present - which make Broome so special, and Dean Cooper, founder of Lost Broome, is the gatekeeper to their stories. By NORMAN BURNS. Images: POLICE CONSTABLE, COURTESY VANYA WEIR; OTHER IMAGES COURTESY LOST BROOME

nyone who believes nostalgia ain’t what it used to be just has to log on to Facebook and check out the Lost Broome page. The brainchild of Broome hotel manager Dean Cooper, Lost Broome now has more than 6,000 likes (likes are the benchmark for Facebook success), with more visitors giving their tick of approval every day. Amazing, considering Broome’s current population is only about 10,000. But then taking a trip down memory lane is a powerful thing indeed as Dean, who manages Broome Time Accommodation and Art Gallery, well knows. “A woman came into the foyer the other week wanting to see me; she had last been in Broome decades ago but had seen the Lost Broome story in the last issue of Broome Visitor Guide; she wanted to thank me in person for keeping the memories of Broome alive,” says Dean, who is working steadily towards a Lost Broome book. Meanwhile the Facebook page is

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

gathering momentum by the minute. “I’m getting some amazing images in; they get posted automatically and the reactions from people are fantastic to see.” Former Broome resident Joan Sutherland, now living in Perth, loves the Lost Broome page, which has brought back some amazing memories and put her back in touch with long-lost friends. “My family and I lived in the Kimberley for over 10 years; we were involved in the road being sealed between Halls Creek and Fitzroy Crossing. During the Wet season we would stay in Broome at what was the Bali Hai Caravan Park,” says Joan, who returned to the town to live in the early 1980s. “People from all walks of life came to live there; some to escape the cold of the south, others who were escaping themselves or, what would they say, ‘finding’ themselves. We called them Mung Beans and they would camp in the sand dunes along Cable Beach Road (now all housing). Before Shinju time, the ranger would do a burn-off; it was great visitbroome.com.au

LOST BROOME NOW HAS MORE THAN 6,000 LIKES ON FACEBOOK, WITH MORE VISITORS GIVING THEIR TICK OF APPROVAL EVERY DAY

entertainment as people would run out onto Cable Beach (usually naked) more worried that they had left magic mushrooms behind,” says Joan. “The social side of Broome back then was we made our own fun; sleep out on the beach, BBQ, fishing, crabbing were as easy as sitting on the jetty and throwing a line in.” But Joan was not in Broome just to have a good time; she was actively involved in many community projects and volunteer programs, receiving a Woman of the Decade medal for her efforts in 1988 as part of Australia’s Bicentennial Celebrations. One of her projects was to raise money

for a new radio tower for the ambulance service, which led to organising a market day at the courthouse. “This was known as the St John Courthouse Market and today it is still operating on a much bigger scale,” says Joan. “In 1988 I received the Bicentennial commemorative medal for the work I had done with various volunteer organisations in Broome. It sits today in my cupboard and although it is a good memory it’s more about being involved with your community and helping each other along the way.” Meanwhile, with family still living in Broome, Joan gets to visit ‘home’ regularly. “For me Broome has grown and lost a lot of ‘family feel’ however saying that we all must grow with the changes. Lord McAlpine did a lot of changes in the town and, looking back, they had to come,” she says. In between trips, of course, Joan and thousands of others just need to log on to a computer to reminisce about the heady times of a Broome from a bygone era. Anyone with an image they would like to share on Lost Broome can message Dean via the Facebook page or email info@ lostbroome.com.au

THE TIMES THEY ARE A-CHANGING Images submitted to Lost Broome like the ones above are creating a memory bank of how the town was in the past for the present generation of residents and visitors.

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

Bodysoul

While in Broome, make sure you book some me time at one of these lifeaffirming spots. By TORI WILSON.

KIMBERLEY SANDS RESORT AND SPA – au natural

Broome is renowned as a place of pristine natural beauty. At Kimberley Sands Spa, you can experience the natural remedies of Broome in a secluded location, surrounded by elegant water features for your own personal paradise. Li’Tya spa treatment, offered by Kimberley Sands, uses natural and native products and methods that are drawn from 40,000 years of Aboriginal Dreamtime culture, that in turn draws from the beneficial minerals and nutrients of the land. Li’Tya, meaning “of the earth, focuses on a person’s entire being – mind, body, and spirit. With Li’Tya spa treatment, dreamtime culture, herbalism and aromatherapy are combined for a completely detoxifying and sensory experience. Unwind and invigorate your whole self with Li’Tya’s nourishing and mineral rich Mala Mayi Mud Wrap – post Full Body Sea Salt Exfoliation. This option is one from the grounding ‘Of the Earth’ range. For a cleansing and purifying experience, choose from the ‘Of the Sea’ range, including the Deep Ocean Renewal Facial, which uses marine based ingredients to penetrate and revitalise the skin. Follow up your enriching skin treatment with a Kodo Hot Rocks Massage to relax the body and soul. The rocks have been carved from the Kimberley’s ancient primordial stones for special purposes. The stones’ healing properties improve circulation, relieve muscular tension and elevate emotion wellbeing. The Li’Tya spa treatment connects people to the deep and profound philosophies of Indigenous Australians – the oldest continuing people on the planet 60

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

– with ingredients that have been used to benefit the skin and mind for thousands of years. After a day at the spa of Kimberley Sands you will leave feeling soothed and invigorated, using the power of the earth. Visit kimberleysands.com.au BALI HAI – experience the exotic Tucked away among lush and tropical gardens you will find The Bali Hai Spa, only a stroll away from beautiful Cable Beach. Here you can be pampered and rejuvenated using an exclusive range of exotic Balinese therapies. Step into one of seven private rooms, each named after the elements in the traditional Indonesian language, to begin your holistic spa treatment. Exotic blends of herbs and spices will elevate your senses as you indulge in one of their luxurious body wraps, massages or facials. The Balinese Coco Hot Oil Wrap will melt away any tension trapped away in your muscles. First, receive a coconut and cinnamon exfoliation massage before the

warm oil is drizzled over your body, which is then wrapped in a muslin sheath to best absorb the rich nutrients. A rejuvenating facial cleanse and head massage accompany the wrap to leave your mind and body completely at ease. The Kimberley Rock Stone Therapy is one of their native Australian offerings. A collection of warm flat stones from the river beds of the Kimberley are used to achieve a fluid, relaxing massage. It begins with a warm stone foot bath that is designed to awaken your senses and trigger the reflexology points of the feet. Next, the stones are placed on various chakra points of the body while receiving a head massage to leave you in a state of pure tranquillity. The Passion of the Pearl is another favourite. This sensual delight can be enjoyed alone or as a couple. Begin with a massage before an invigorating Mother of Pearl and Passionfruit body scrub. Cocoa butter is then drizzled over the body while a facial cleanse and coconut oil head massage are performed. Finally, slip into a smooth coconut and rose petal bath and indulge with a tropical fruit cocktail. After you emerge from your treatment, take a dip in the cool plunge pool or lay on the Balinese day bed to prolong your state of relaxation. Visit balihairesort.com.au visitbroome.com.au

CABLE BEACH CLUB – a luxury melting pot Cable Beach Club’s Chahoya Spa by L’Occitane is a complete sensory experience that draws on ingredients from the French region of Provence to soothe and energise. The name ‘Chahoya’ itself is a nod to Broome’s Japanese pearling history, being the Japanese word for pamper. While the interior design of the spa pays homage to Broome’s native roots, being adorned with the Dreamtime Series by Sir Sidney Nolan, one of Australia’s most significant and internationally acclaimed artists. Chahoya Spa, tucked away among a

tropical oasis, features seven distinct cabins reflecting local themes. This includes the Dreamtime Immortelle, Dreamtime Lavender, Dreamtime Almond, Dreamtime Shea, Dreamtime Akuna, Nolan Cabin and Kimberley Cabin (Dreamtime Akuna is the name of Chohoya’s Vichy Cabin; Akuna is the Aboriginal meaning of flowing water). Once you enter your chosen cabin, you’ll instantly smell the fresh scent of Provence – a focus on fragrance is a signature quality of Chohoya Spa by L’Occitane. Prior to any treatment you’ll also be pampered with a ‘welcome ritual’; a footbath performed with Aromachologie Effervescent Sugar Cubes. Moments of delights such as this, as well as complimentary herbal tea, are a L’Occitane speciality. The Immortelle Divine Secret to Everlasting Youth is a premium anti-ageing facial at Chahoya. This treatment uses the unique properties of the immortelle flower found on the island of Corsica to improve skin cell regeneration and microcirculation, as well as hyaluronic acid to tighten the skin and myrtle essential oil. Using massage techniques that stimulate pressure points, this facial treatment will relieve tension in the face and restore a youthful glow. Shea is a nutrient-rich nut that is renowned for its highly soothing and moisturising properties. Try the Shea Fabulous Massage for

an all-over softening treatment. Balinese and Swedish techniques are gently applied all over the body and face with a splash of the Shea Fabulous Oil for body and hair – this stuff is super silky and absorbs rapidly to leave you supple without residue. This is just a sample of the luxury treatments offered at Chahoya. L’Occitane products place a strong emphasis on natural ingredients with hydrating angelica, firming almond and relaxing lavender being the key ingredients of their signature ranges. Visit cablebeachclub.com KIMBERLE75Y WILD GUBINGE – the key to native wellbeing The gubinge fruit – a small plum, native to the Kimberley region – is fast becoming known as the superfood of Australia. With similar properties to the hugely popular acai berry from the Amazon, and the maqui berry from Chile, the gubinge fruit has the added benefit of being in its freshest and most potent state here in the Kimberley. Collected and eaten by Aboriginal people for thousands of years, this fruit has the highest vitamin C and antioxidant content of any fruit on the planet. For this reason, not only is it a beneficial supplement that can be added to juices, smoothies and sprinkled on food, but it can be applied directly to the skin as a natural therapy. The Kimberley Wild Gubinge is an Indigenous-owned business that carefully dehydrates and mills the fruit into a fine powder that can be applied easily to the skin. The bioactive properties within the gubinge powder make it a powerful

treatment for acne, rashes, insect bites, dry skin, and sun-damaged skin. KWG are an ethical, social and environmentally responsible source of the gubinge fruit and claim that as Stewards of the Land they’re compelled to keep their carbon footprint to an absolute minimum. It’s not just their land that they’re passionate about, they’re also committed to providing economic opportunities for Aboriginal people of their community through their wealth of cultural food knowledge. To use the KWG product as a skin treatment, simply mix a teaspoon of their milled gubinge powder with water or your favourite skin oil and combine to make a paste. Apply directly to your skin as a facial mask, which should be left for 5-7 minutes before rinsing off with warm water. Alternatively, try a bite of KWG’s Gubinge Wafers to ingest the benefits of the superfood. Exclusive to KWG they are a delicate, crisp, tangy wafer that is loaded with Vitamin C and antioxidants. All the same nutritional benefits of the KWG Powder but in a wafer for a bit of extra crunch. Visit kimberleywildgubinge.com.au

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

THE LUXURY of BROOME Residing in Broome, the grand Allure South Sea Pearls showroom is located in the historical and spiritual home of the pearling industry.

estled among the historic facades of Dampier Terrace, the Kimberley showroom houses an extensive collection of classic South Sea pearl and diamond ready-to-wear accessories and hand-crafted couture designs – a true destination for the pursuers of luxury. Renowned for its rich pearling history and dusty red streets, Chinatown is synonymous with the pearling industry, and, fittingly, the Allure showroom has become a well-known feature of the area. Visitors and locals alike enjoy lofty ceilings, classic interiors and jewellery-filled cabinets as they make their way through the magnificent showroom. Allure’s team of experts are on hand daily to deliver a personalised, world-class service for adorers of the finest South Sea pearl and diamond jewellery, possessing an in-depth knowledge of each piece in the collection. A visit to the Allure showroom is

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

not only an experience, but an education. With meticulous attention to detail and unrivalled skill, Allure South Sea Pearls’ inhouse team of jewellers work with only the finest South Sea pearls from every harvest, each carefully selected against the highest standards or lustre, complexion, shape, size and colour before being turned into a piece of wearable art. Each piece in the showroom celebrates the magnificence and individuality of not only the pearl, but its wearer too. From lustrous white and pink hued South Sea pearl pendants to golden statement earrings and bangles, there is something for everyone. With decades of experience between them, founders William (Bill) Reed AM and Lindsay Youd have travelled to some of the most remote Kimberley locations in pursuit of the finest pearls, ensuring Allure is home to a collection of the rarest and most exquisite of nature’s treasures. Marvelling in the joy that comes with

owning a South Sea pearl treasure, Bill and Lindsay believe there is no greater pleasure than seeing the sense of wonder and discovery on the face of someone who has found their perfect piece of Allure jewellery. In Bill’s words, “a pearl is a living gem – a miracle of nature.” With the largest collection of Australian South Sea pearls, sparkling Argyle diamonds and fine 18ct gold jewellery, Allure South Sea Pearls’ Broome showroom is a must-visit when in the Kimberley region. Allure is located at 25 Dampier Terrace in historic Chinatown and at the Cable Beach Club Resort and Spa. visitbroome.com.au

broome. 25 dampier terrace. broome wa. (+61 8) 9192 2430

cable beach club resort & spa, lobby. broome wa. (+61 8) 9192 6035

perth. 316 rokeby road. subiaco wa. (+61 8) 9388 3131

stockists at A L L U R E S O U T H S E A P E A R L S . C O M . A U

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

Natural SPLENDOUR

A VISIT TO THE HORIZONTAL FALLS IS ONE OF THE MOST UNFORGETTABLE TRIPS ANYBODY CAN MAKE, SAYS LISA SHEARON.

orizontal Falls Seaplane Adventures founder Troy Thomas has a profound appreciation for the Kimberley region, which began when he was just a child. Today, with his business thriving, Troy has partnered with traditional land owners to celebrate a different side to the Horizontal Falls region. Now, visitors to the area will experience not just the natural wonders of the Kimberley, but also the Dreamtime stories and artworks that define them, as an added extra to the array of tours already on offer. Described by Sir David Attenborough as “one of the greatest natural wonders of the world”, Horizontal Falls are at the top of Tourism WA’s bucket-list experiences. So-called because of the way the water gushes horizontally rather than vertically, these spectacular falls are literally unlike anything else in the world. Located in Talbot Bay, within the

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

stunning Buccaneer Archipelago, the Horizontal Falls are only accessible by boat, or a seaplane/helicopter flight from Broome or Derby. As the only operator approved to take passengers fast boating through the falls, and the only operator based at Talbot Bay, Horizontal Falls Seaplane Adventures (HFSA) are ideally placed to tick off bucketlist aspirations. They provide intrepid explorers with the chance to experience one of the most unique waterfalls in the world, and the opportunity to view and explore the remote and majestic Kimberley region. Dambimingarri traditional owner Francis Woolagoodja is delighted to be partnering with Troy to celebrate this sensitive and remote natural environment by offering the additional Indigenous Tours. “I like having a chance to tell the story about the area,” Francis explains. “People know Horizontal Falls for the water and the

gap, but there’s more to Horizontal Falls culturally. “I wanted to tell the story of the people from the area. Troy was pretty keen on telling that story, and I was keen to be a part of it.” An Oomeday man, Francis refers to Horizontal Falls by its traditional name: Lalang-garrum. “People love the water, but the land side of thing is just as important,” he says of Horizontal Falls’ significance. “There are heaps of different stories in Lalang-garrum. There are art sites and burial sites; it’s a place that’s alive. “As a tour guide, we’ll take visitors to the different sites around the area, and the different caves. Different caves tell different stories.” A story that Francis tells fondly is of a cave painted with two entwined brothers. “The painting tells the story of two visitbroome.com.au

brothers, lost in the Dreamtime. They kept looking around, and as they did, honey bees flew above them, dropping nectar. “When they turned to look at each other – one looking north, one looking south – the nectar stuck them together. You can see in one of the images they’re on top of each

other, stuck. On the other side of the cave you’ll see a painting of the honey nectar. It’s all part of the story.” For Francis, it’s hugely important that the Dreamtime stories are kept alive, and told to the area’s visitors. “In the tourism industry, a lot of people are telling the wrong story. I believe we should build a relationship with the tourism industry so that we can tell our story. We need each other. This gives us a chance to tell our story. “I admire everything Troy does, so it’s easy for me to be involved. Troy’s doing the right thing – we both believe in conservation and tourism; it’s better than mining! “I’m very happy to be doing something that’s meaningful.” Today, after significant investment on infrastructure, Horizontal Falls Seaplane Adventures offers a range of tours and activities that allow everyday people to be real-life adventurers, including luxury houseboat stays and the walking tours of significant traditional sites. Horizontal Falls Seaplanes Adventures, 08 9192 1172, or visit visitbroom.com.au

KEEPING STORIES ALIVE Horizontal Falls Seaplane Adventures offer a wide range of tour options, including Indigenous Tours to inform and educate guests about local culture.

TOURS ARE conducted seasonally due to weather (late March to late October) and depart from both Broome and Derby. Tours are fully inclusive and include travel by land, sea and air to a number of amazing Kimberley sites, including Beagle Bay, Cape Leveque, One Arm Point, Buccaneer Archipelago and the Horizontal Falls. Passengers have the option to stay overnight at the Horizontal Hotel, and there are also four-day extended tours to give visitors the chance to really explore the region. Plus, the Indigenous Tours are available as an added extra. During the dry season the region is subject to fluctuating tides, so to ensure guests only experience the Falls at premium viewing, HFSA does not travel during neap tide periods (when tides are at their lowest). This means that there are only approximately 200 touring days available each season.

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

Making

tracks Missy Higgins is heading back to one of her favourite places in the world - Broome - and both shows promise to be nothing short of unforgettable. By GABI MILLS.

came to Missy Higgins late - which is to say in this extraordinary artist’s career, I only discovered her in the last five years. I fell in love, like so many others, with her authentic, earthy voice and hearttangling lyrics in top-charting album, The Ol’ Razzle Dazzle, released in 2011. Since then I’ve joyfully journeyed back in time, discovering her other work, particularly Oz, a collection of Australian tracks given the Missy Higgins sprinkling of stardust. Anybody who’s heard her version of The Drones’ Shark Fin Blues will never forget it. Her collection of works to date is remarkable. For somebody so young (the mother of one is still only in her early

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

30s), Melissa ‘Missy’ Morrison Higgins has achieved more since bursting onto the music scene at 15 than many artists achieve in a lifetime. Born in Melbourne, she played the piano from a young age and by 15 was writing her own music, penning All For Believing just in time to upload it to Triple J’s Unearthed - an opportunity to give unsigned Aussie artists a huge audience via the national radio station. That song won and from then onwards Missy Higgins has taken her place on that and the world’s radio playlists. The story-telling nature of many of her works makes them perhaps the ideal soundtrack for a balmy night under the stars, and after an orchestral tour with

the Tasmanian Symphony Orchestra with old material re-scored, Missy says that her desire to perform with an orchestral backing was ignited. “It just sounded so beautiful in a massive cinematic way,” she said. “I heard my old songs in a completely new way.” The An Evening with Missy Higgins tour was born, and a visit to Broome was a must. “I really wanted to come to WA, it means a lot to me - I’ve spent a lot of time in Broome in the past," she says. “I’ve written so many of my songs in Broome and had the most inspiring moments of my life up there.” In fact she lived in the Kimberley town in 2006, seeking inspiration from the extraordinary landscape, writing Going North before touring the US and South Africa with her new material. She also met her future husband - Dan Lee - in Broome, and the pair welcomed their son Samuel in January 2015. visitbroome.com.au

movie Bran Nue Dae in 2009, and acting is something she’d like to try again. Broome, it seems, is never far from her thoughts. “It’s truly one of my favourite places on Earth. I can’t wait to go back, spend some time in the bush, get my feet dirty in the pindan soil, play guitar under a boab tree and have a mango beer! I’m really looking forward to this gig,” she says. Her work is famously autobiographical, charting lost loves, the pain of separation and her journey from teen to first-time mother. “My lyrics have completely changed,” she laughs. “My inspirations are different now - I’m writing about the world and what’s wrong with it. “Becoming a mum really cracked me open and made me much more sensitive. I keep bursting into tears when I watch

the news. My priorities have changed - I now see the world as a person who has somebody to protect, that this is the world I’ve brought him into.” Always a passionate advocate of the environment, singing at the Save the Kimberley concert and a strong voice against the destruction of the Great Barrier Reef, Missy says these days she keeps returning to the subject of climate change. “My songs have always been very confessional, about past relationships, how I’ve felt about myself. Nowadays I feel far away from the songs I wrote ten years ago - I feel completely unrestricted and able to experiment these days.” An Evening with Missy Higgins, Friday August 25 and Saturday August 26 at the Goolarri Amphitheatre, Broome. Visit missyhiggins.com/shows for more info.

Concert-goers can expect a mix of old and new material, says Missy Higgins. “When you play piano the songs lend themselves well to an orchestral setting,” she said. “It leaves a lot of space. I’ve just been overseas and have done a lot of writing and collaborating so we’ll see how the new songs go down.” Her passion for performance remains undiminished despite the extra pressures of motherhood, she says. “I still feel like on stage is where I come to life, I’m not a studio head type of performer. I like writing music and playing it live, connecting with an audience. “It’s a little bit harder in an outdoor setting but when it’s purely my show (rather than a festival), it’s easier to make those connections. It can be beautiful on a really different level.” The multi-talented performer pursued a course in Indigenous Studies and scored a role in the award-winning Australian Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

ero H Local

Illy, Australia’s very own hip hop legend, ARIA-winner and generally awesome dude is heading to Broome as part of a regional tour. By TORI WILSON.

f you’ve been following Illy since his earliest releases, you might remember the beginnings of him carving his name into the Australian hip hop scene in 2009 with his Triple J Like a Version rendition of the Pixies’ Where is My Mind? and first album Long Story Short. Fast-forward past his second studio album The Chase, nominated for his first ARIA, his third album Bring It Back, which

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

won Illy his first ARIA, and even still past his fourth album Cinematic, certified gold among other accolades, and you arrive at Two Degrees, nominated for a total of six ARIAs. Evidently, Illy’s Obama-inspired journey, moving two degrees, then two degrees, then two degrees, has moved him all the way to his most successful album yet and a massive 2017, with his regional tour now underway, including a gig at the

Roebuck Bay Hotel in Broome. Two Degrees takes hip hop to a whole new level – it doesn’t just sample from other genres but blurs the lines with flavours of electronic and pop bursting through. It’s radio-friendly sound has been built upon the groundwork of previous Cinematic tracks like Tightrope, bringing us Illy’s most polished and popular hits, Papercuts featuring Vera Blue and Catch-22 featuring London’s Anne-Marie. Illy says the success of Cinematic is what gave him the confidence to go for it with Two Degrees and he’s more than happy with howt turned out. visitbroome.com.au

ILLY'S NEW WORK HAS BEEN KILLING IT WITH THE MASSES

Win

a ticket for two to Illy’s show at the Roey on August 13. To enter visit Visit Broome’s Facebook page.

Good luck!

“Even though in Cinematic I was trying to do more than just rap, I’ve always loved melody and song writing and the singing aspects of albums,” says Illy. “Two Degrees in particular, is at points a hip hop album, at points it’s an electronic album and then at other points it’s almost a pop album. I’m really proud of it and it has really pushed those boundaries for me.” Despite a gradual shifting of Illy’s style, what has remained a consistent theme throughout all his albums is a title track that best sums up the point that he’s at in life. Staying true to tradition, Two Degrees does just that with lyrics that reflect Illy’s journey of making small, incremental changes over time to end up somewhere different. But with change comes an influx of new fans and a departure of at least some of the old – you can’t please them all and Illy makes no apologies for not trying to. Forget It, the album’s intro track, is a light-hearted reaction to the mix of opinions his fluid music style has aroused. “Forget It is a playful intro track, there’s nothing too heavy in it – I don’t think I was takings shots at anybody,” says Illy. “I think everyone wants to have an opinion, everyone’s entitled to an opinion, but I’m also entitled to disagree and have my response to it. I don’t get too caught up in it because the response has been so overwhelmingly positive and there’s so many more people that like my music now than they did this time last year before the album came out.” Despite some fans who resonate more with Illy’s earlier sound, his new stuff has been killing it with the masses and his recent national tour was a testament to that. Even more importantly, Illy loves what he’s been doing. “For me personally, I really love the

direction that I’m going in,” Illy tells me. “I definitely want to keep pushing my ability as far as a songwriter goes. I 100% wholeheartedly feel that my best stuff is still to come and I guess that’s professionally or musically kind of aspiring for me; to just keep getting better at my craft and keep pushing myself to do new things.” Illy shares that he currently has a few demos in the works and he hopes to keep building up ideas while on the road; but with a big six months ahead with his upcoming regional tour, he has a lot on his plate. “Yeah, it’s going to be, um – talk to me at the end of November and we’ll see if I’m still in one piece,” he laughs. “I’m looking forward to just playing shows. I love playing shows and the capital city run was awesome but there’s people who couldn’t make those gigs,” says Illy. “I made my bones at the start of my career by playing these regional shows and going out there and just because the situation’s changed it doesn’t mean I’m going to stop when I have the opportunity to keep going out there. So yeah, I’m looking forward to getting back on the road for an extended period of time.” Illy – Two Degrees Regional Tour, The Roebuck Bay Hotel, August 13. For more info and to purchase tickets visit illyal.com

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

What's on

AUGUST • SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER • NOVEMBER 2017

REGULARS Monday Quiz Night Starts at 7:30pm. Murphy’s Irish Pub, 43 Mandurah Terrace. Call 08 9195 5900 or visit murphysirishpub.com.au Broome Diocese Mass Mass starts at 5.30pm. Our Lady Queen of Peace Cathedral, Weld Street, Broome. Call 08 9192 1060 or email info@broomediocese.org Tuesday Broome Diocese Mass Mass starts at 5.30pm. Our Lady Queen of Peace Cathedral, Weld Street, Broome. Call 08 9192 1060 or email info@broomediocese.org Texas Hold’em Poker 6pm registration/7pm start. 6pm free beginners tables. The Roey (Sports Bar). Visit roey.com.au Wednesday Pub Trivia Night and $20 Schnitzel Starts at 7:30pm. Divers Tavern (Beach Bar), 12 Cable Beach Rd. Visit diverstavern.com.au Broome Diocese Mass Mass starts at noon. Our Lady Queen of Peace Cathedral, Weld Street, Broome. Call 08 9192 1060 or email info@broomediocese.org Pool Comp 7pm start, $5 Entry. The Roey (Sports Bar). Visit roey.com.au Open Mic Night $500 cash prizes to be won! From 8:30pm – late. 70

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

The Roey (Sports Bar). Visit roey.com.au Thursday Broome Diocese Mass Mass at 6.30am. Our Lady Queen of Peace Cathedral, Weld Street, Broome. Call 08 9192 1060 or email info@broomediocese.org Thursday Markets Bag a bargain from June 1. From 5 – 9 pm. Town Beach. Visit broomecourthousemarkets. com.au Wet T-Shirt Competition Broome’s famous Wet T-shirt competition. $750 cash for the winner! From 9pm – late. $5 entry for men. The Roey (Oasis Bar). Visit roey.com.au Thirsty Thursdays RnB & Hip Hop your way into the weekend! Skylla Lounge Bar, from 11pm – 4am, free entry before midnight. 18 Dampier Terrace, Chinatown Friday Broome Diocese Mass Mass at 6.30am. Our Lady Queen of Peace Cathedral, Weld Street, Broome, call 08 9192 1060 or email info@broomediocese.org RSL BBQ BBQ from 6pm. Broome RSL, 18 Barker St, Broome. Call 08 9192 1003. Live Music at the Divers Tavern Live bands every Friday night. Live AFL and NRL on our big screens. Divers Tavern (Beach Bar), 12 Cable Beach Rd. Visit diverstavern.com.au Local Live Music at The Roey

Local live music every Friday night! From 10pm – late. Free event. The Roey (Sports Bar). Visit roey.com.au Skylla Lounge Bar – RnB Fridays From 10pm – early mornings. $5 entry. Skylla Lounge Bar, 18 Dampier Terrace. Hundred Helmets Promotion With Broome’s biggest jackpots. From 3 – 6pm. Divers Tavern (Beach Bar), 12 Cable Beach Rd. Visit diverstavern.com.au Parmi Night $12 parmi with a selection of toppings. From 5pm. The Roey, Pearlers Bar-Bistro. Visit www. roey.com.au Saturday Courthouse Markets Markets from 8am – 1pm. Broome Courthouse 8 Hamersley Street, Broome. Broome Diocese Mass Mass starts at 6pm. Our Lady Queen of Peace Cathedral, Weld Street, Broome. Call 08 9192 1060 or email info@broomediocese.org Live music at the Divers Tavern Live bands every Saturday. Live AFL and NRL on our big screens. Divers Tavern (Beach Bar), 12 Cable Beach Rd. Visit diverstavern.com.au Saturday Night Live & Local Dance the night away to some of Broome’s finest musicians! Stay updated on The Roey’s Facebook page! Free event. The Roey (Oasis). Visit www.roey.com.au The Goose Club Raffle drawn at 2pm. The Roey (Sports Bar). Visit www.roey.com.au visitbroome.com.au

Skylla Saturday Dance the night away to the hottest tunes in town. Until 4am. $5 all night. Skylla Lounge Bar, 18 Dampier Terrace. Sunday Broome Diocese Mass Mass starts at 7am and 9am. Our Lady Queen of Peace Cathedral, Weld Street, Broome. Call 08 9192 1060 or email info@broomediocese.org RSL Sunday Roast From 5:30pm. 18 Barker St, Broome. Call 08 9192 1003. Crazy Crab Races From 6 to 8.30pm. Divers Tavern (Beach Bar), 12 Cable Beach Rd. Visit diverstavern.com.au Family Day From 3pm. Mangrove Hotel, 47 Carnarvon Street. Call 9192 1303 or visit mangrovehotel.com.au Courthouse Markets From 8am. Until the end of October. Broome Courthouse, 8 Hamersley Street, Broome Roey Roast and Sunday Acoustic Sessions Enjoy local live music and their famous Roey Roast. From 5 – 8pm. The Roey, Pearlers Bar-Bistro. Visit www.roey. com.au Pinctada McAlpine House High Tea Once a month from May until September. Visit mcalpinehouse.com.au or call 08 9192 0588.

EVENTS Itchy and the Groovehouse Play live from 7:30 – 10:30pm. Mangrove Hotel, 47 Carnarvon Street, August 4. Call 9192 1303 or visit www.mangrovehotel. com.au Quiver Live music at The Roey. The Roey (Oasis), August 5. Visit roey.com.au Kimberley Cup - Broome Horse Racing Gantheaume Point, August 5. Call 9192 2085 or visit www.broometurfclub.com.au Mud & Saltwater Film Festival The focus for film entries in the 2017 FILM FEST is Roebuck Bay and the Kimberley coast. From 5pm – late. Mangrove Hotel, 47 Carnarvon Street, August 5. Call 9192 1303 or visit mangrovehotel.com.au Staircase to the Moon 5pm – late. Mangrove Hotel, 47 Carnarvon Street, August 8 – 10. Call 9192 1303 or visit www. mangrovehotel.com.au Kimberley Collection – Fine Art Exhibition OPENING NIGHT

Welcome to the Inaugural Kimberley Collection. These are professional practicing artists who have come together, generously supported by the Shire of Broome to take you on a journey of this country through their eyes and medium practice. Bar and canapes available. From 6 – 8pm. Broome Civic Centre, 27 Weld St, August 10. Call 0418 936 915 Kimberley Collection – Fine Art Exhibition From 10am – 4pm daily. Broome Civic Centre, 27 Weld St, August 10 – 20. Call 0418 936 915 Staircase to the Moon Markets From 5pm. Town Beach Reserve on Robinson Street, August 8 – 9. Visit broomecourthousemarkets. com.au Magabala Books 30th Anniversary Light refreshments provided. From 5 – 7pm. Magabala Books, 1 Bagot Street, August 10. Call 9192 1991 or visitmagabala.com Theatre Kimberley’s Bust Out Cabaret Doors open from 7pm, show starts at 8pm. Broome Civic Centre, 27 Weld St, August 11 – 12. Visit broomeciviccentre.com.au Corrugated Lines Writers Festival A Festival of Words. Broome, August 11 – 13. Visit www.facebook. com/CorrugatedLines/ Bungarun, the Derby Leprosarium 1936-1986 ‘A Corrugated Lines Event’

SSJG Heritage Centre 9 Barker St, August 12. Call 0428 692 993 or visit heritage.ssjg.org.au/ ILLY - the Two Degrees Regional Tour From 8 to midnight. The Roey, Cnr Napier and Dampier Terrace, August 13. Call 9192 1221 or visitroey.com.au Ladies Day 2017 – Broome Horse Racing Broome, Western Australia, Australia, August 15. Call 9192 2085 or visit broometurfclub. com.au Official Ladies Day after-party. The Roey (Oasis), August 15. Visit www.roey.com.au A Taste of Broome Goolarri Amphitheatre, Blackman Street, August 17. Call 9195 5333 or visit goolarri.com/ atob/ Broome Turf Club & Mangrove Hotel present CALCUTTA Broome Cup 2017 From 5:30pm – late. Mangrove Hotel, 47 Carnarvon Street, August 18. Visit mangrovehotel.com.au Broome Rodeo From 2 – 11pm. Jack Knox Arena, Broome Hwy, August 18. Darren Reid & Soul City Groove Live music night. The Roey (Oasis), August 18. Visit roey.com.au Broome Cup 2017 – Broome Horse Racing Broome Turf Club, Gantheaume Point, August 19. Visit broometurfclub.com.au Quiver

DID YOU KNOW . . . the history of crab racing at The Divers Tavern, Cable Beach

Owen ‘Rabbit’ Pointer started racing crabs in the early 1990s as a bit of casual fun at various Broome venues. Today the Crazy Crab Races are in their 24th year in Broome and are an iconic must-see Broome event. Every Friday evening Rabbit peddles his way to Broome’s Town Beach to collect land hermit crabs for the following Sunday’s program. The program consists of six races with a field of eight crabs, so 50-plus crabs of varying sizes are collected and nurtured until the big day. Each crab only 'races' once. After the event the crabs are put out to pasture back at the beach. There are no characteristics that makes a good racing crab and no telling what the crab will do on the circular track. Crabs have 'sprinted' towards the line only to stop just before the winning post, while others don’t even

leave the starting gate. It all adds to the excitement, particularly if you are lucky enough to have won a crab at the prerace raffle. The Crazy Crab Races attracted Australia-wide coverage when Rabbit's infamous crab hat went missing and have also featured on Robson Green’s Australia Wild documentary series. Rabbit's love of the crab races has led to in excess $500,000 being raised for local charities and organisations over the past 24 years. For his efforts and diligence Rabbit was awarded the Broome Citizen of the Year in 2008 and the Lions Club International Exemplary Service Award in 2015, the first in Northern WA. The Crazy Crab Races crawl off in the Beach Bar at Divers Tavern in Cable Beach, every Sunday from April to September at 6pm.

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

Official Broome Cup after-party. The Roey (Oasis), August 19. Visit roey.com.au Heritage Films - Painting the Future 9 Barker Street, August 23. Call 9192 3950 or visit heritage.ssjg.org.au Missy Higgins live in Broome Goolarri Amphitheatre, 7–9 Blackman Street, August 25 – 26. Visit missyhiggins.com 100 Year Celebration of Sun Pictures From 7:30pm. Sun Pictures, August 26. Opera Under the Stars Presenting - Opera Soiree - Broome From 8pm – late. Ticketed event. Mangrove Hotel, 47 Carnarvon Street, August 26. Call 9195 2200 or visit operaunderthestars. com.au Mooridiji Brothers Upcoming Triple J Unearthed band. The Roey (Oasis), September 2. Visit www. roey.com.au Coppo’s Family Fun Day Bring the family for bouncing castle, face painting, live music & more. The Roey (Oasis), September 3. Visit roey.com.au Shinju Matsuri (Festival of the Pearl) Broome Chinatown - Roey Carpark, September 2 – 10. Call 9314 3820 or visit shinjumatsuri. com.au Staircase to the Moon Markets From 5pm. Town Beach Reserve on Robinson Street, September 7. Visit broomecourthousemarkets. com.au A Taste of Broome Goolarri Amphitheatre, Blackman Street, September 7. Call 9195 5333 or visit goolarri. com/atob Shinju Matsuri Geisha Ball Beer/wine on arrival, Japanese inspired four course meals. The Roey (Oasis), September 8. Tickets available at The Roey reception, call 08 9192 1221, or at Broome Visitors Centre. Staircase to the Moon 5pm – late. Mangrove Hotel, 47 Carnarvon Street, September 7 – 9. Call 9192 1303 or visit mangrovehotel.com.au The Sandfly Circus Annual Show Doors open 6pm, show starts at 6:30pm. Broome Recreation & Aquatic Centre, September 15 – 16. Visit theatrekimberley.org.au Leading Edge Computers Cable Beach Triathlon Cable Beach, September 17. Call 0405280442 or visit broometriclub.com.au Tura Music Concert From 5pm – late. Mangrove Hotel, 47 Carnarvon Street, September 26. Call 9192 1303 or visit www. mangrovehotel.com.au 72

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

Kimberley Girl Heat Event From 7pm – late. Goolarri Media Amphitheatre, 7 Blackman Street. Call 9195 5333 or visit goolarri.com Kimberley Girl and Pilbara Girl Final Event From 7pm – late. Goolarri Media Amphitheatre, 7 Blackman Street. Call 9195 5333 or visit goolarri.com Staircase to the Moon 5pm – late. Mangrove Hotel, 47 Carnarvon Street, October 6 – 10. Call 9192 1303 or visit mangrovehotel.com.au Staircase to the Moon Markets From 5pm. Town Beach Reserve on Robinson Street, October 6 –8. Visit broomecourthousemarkets.com.au Melbourne Cup From 11am – 2pm. Mangrove Hotel, 47 Carnarvon Street, November 7. Call 9192 1303 or visit mangrovehotel.com.au Kyle Andrew Foundation Pentathlon Submit nomination forms at kyleandrewsfoundation.com.au. Contact info@kyleandrewsfoundation.com.au for details. Broome Mango Festival Broome, November 22 – 26. Visit facebook. com/BroomeMangoFestival visitbroome.com.au

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

Tura New Music brings together three of Australia's leading Indigenous performers in a ground-breaking new tour of the country. By TORI WILSON.

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

impressive aspect of Tura’s Regional Program, making its way from Wyndham, to Broome and then to Perth, with many more stops through the breathtaking landscape of the Kimberley along the way. The tour will bring together three of Australia’s leading Indigenous performers, Bart Willoughby, Mark Atkins and Stephen Pigram, with an ensemble of some of Australia’s finest instrumentalists creating a vibrant and uniquely Australian sound. Together these gems will put on a performance like no other. Being the first Indigenous artist to score

a feature film, sign a record deal and tour internationally with his band No Fixed Address, Willoughby has been a spearhead for Aboriginal music. He is also well-known as a pioneering Aboriginal reggae artist, with the Indigenous anthems We Have Survived, Black Mans Rights and Aboriginal Woman under his belt, to name a few. Atkins is a didgeridoo master, recognised as one of the nation’s finest players. Through Mark’s lips the air blows as a natural desert sound, in old ethnic chants and in polyphonic melodies of astonishing rhythm. He has melded

IMAGE Bart Willoughby

ura New Music is bringing something special to the table of regional WA – world class Australian music and culture. Tura has been carving out opportunities for Aboriginal artists to share their creative talents with audiences for many years. They have nurtured cross-cultural collaborations creating unique world class programs thriving with culture and creativity. They have made it possible for isolated communities to expose these talents, raising regional awareness and cultivating a sense of inclusion. And, fortunately for the rest of us, they’ve made it possible for lucky crowds to listen. Tura’s Regional Projects are for everyone, with their aim being to promote greater community access to and engagement with arts and cultural activity of a high calibre. Tourists, families, artists and students alike are all welcome to join for Tura performances, to get involved and to reach out to the musicians. Graeme Hortin, Teacher in Charge of the Arts Learning Area at Broome Senior High School says that these projects by Tura are a major social and educational opportunity for his students. “Our students just do not get the opportunity to experience these beautiful cultural interchanges and I believe they benefit enormously on academic and social levels when given the opportunity,” says Graeme. The Echo Tour will be the next

IMAGE Reflections2 Tour 2016 at the Mangrove Hotel

Echo Echo chamber

TALENTED PERFORMERS The Tura New Music tour brings together three of Australia’s leading Indigenous performers to create a uniquely Aussie sound.

visitbroome.com.au

IMAGE Beagle Bay School, Dampier Peninsula

Echo

the digeridoo beat into some unlikely environments, adding its primal pulse to orchestral works and performances alongside icons like Led Zeppelin’s Jimmy Page, Robert Plant, Sinead O’Connor and many, many more. Through Mark, the digeridoo has shone as an instrument of international acclaim. Hailing from Broome, Pigram is a singer/ songwriter and multi-instrumentalist from the Pigram Brothers band – their ‘saltwater country’ music has drawn in crowds from Australia and beyond. Finally, adding just the right notes to complete the acts is The Narli Ensemble: Stephen Magnusson (guitar), Tristen Parr (cello), Erkki Veltheim (violin) and Tos Mahoney (flute). Together these leading Australian instrumentalists comprise an ocean of musical genres and styles, uniquely blended to deliver the perfect accompaniment to the sounds and stories of Willoughby, Atkins and Pigram. Tura New Music, The 2017 Echo Tour, Western Australia, September 7 – 28. Visit tura.com.au

A Musical Celebration Mark Atkins Stephen Pigram Bart Willoughby The Narli Ensemble 7.30pm Tuesday 26 September Mangrove Hotel Tickets from Broome Visitor Centre & Mangrove Hotel www.tura.com.au

Win

a ticket for two to Tura New Music’s show at the Mangrove Hotel on September 26. To enter visit Visit Broome’s Facebook page.

Good luck!

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

TIDES, SUNRISE & SUNSET 2017 AUGUST 1 TUE 0350 7.17 1007 3.91 1618 6.44 2219 4.26 Sunrise 0617 Sunset 0536 2 WED 0454 6.62 1151 4.38 1802 6.01 Sunrise 0617 Sunset 0537 3 THUR 0025 4.67 0647 6.40 1400 4.17 2020 6.21 Sunrise 0616 Sunset 0537 4 FRI 0224 4.42 0838 6.76 1509 3.60 2123 6.79 Sunrise 0616 Sunset 0538 5 SAT 0328 3.87 0931 7.35 1552 2.99 2202 7.37 Sunrise 0615 Sunset 0538 6 SUN 0409 3.29 1009 7.93 1629 2.43 2235 7.89 Sunrise 0615 Sunset 0538 7 MON 0445 2.73 1042 8.43 1703 1.94 2305 8.33 Sunrise 0614 Sunset 0538 8 TUE 0518 2.25 1111 8.83 1736 1.55 2334 8.69 Sunrise 0614 Sunset 0539 9 WED 0551 1.85 1141 9.12 1807 1.29 Sunrise 0613 Sunset 0539 10 THUR 0002 8.97 0622 1.57 1209 9.28 1838 1.17 Sunrise 0613 Sunset 0539 11 FRI 0030 9.14 0653 1.43 1239 9.30 1909 1.21 Sunrise 0612 Sunset 0539

SEPTEMBER

12 SAT 0059 9.19 0723 1.46 1310 9.15 1937 1.42 Sunrise 0611 Sunset 0540

23 WED 0543 1.16 1132 9.64 1803 0.76 2354 9.59 Sunrise 0604 Sunset 0542

13 SUN 0129 9.09 0754 1.67 1342 8.82 2007 1.81 Sunrise 0611 Sunset 0540

24 THUR 0619 0.89 1205 9.72 1836 0.75 Sunrise 0603 Sunset 0542

14 MON 0201 8.82 0824 2.07 1418 8.30 2038 2.35 Sunrise 0614 Sunset 0540 15 TUE 0237 8.38 0900 2.62 1459 7.63 2114 3.03 Sunrise 0610 Sunset 0540 16 WED 0319 7.80 0945 3.30 1553 6.88 2203 3.76 Sunrise 0609 Sunset 0541 17 THUR 0418 7.17 1110 3.92 1739 6.32 2351 4.30 Sunrise 0608 Sunset 0541

25 FRI 0026 9.67 0652 0.88 1238 9.59 1906 0.97 Sunrise 0603 Sunset 0542 26 SAT 0057 9.54 0722 1.11 1309 9.24 1934 1.39 Sunrise 0602 Sunset 0543 27 SUN 0126 9.21 0750 1.55 1339 8.73 1959 1.95 Sunrise 0601 Sunset 0543 28 MON 0156 8.72 0816 2.13 1409 8.10 2022 2.61 Sunrise 0600 Sunset 0543

18 FRI 0614 6.81 1329 3.81 1949 6.49 Sunrise 0608 Sunset 0541

29 TUE 0224 8.11 0842 2.82 1440 7.38 2046 3.32 Sunrise 0600 Sunset 0543

19 SAT 0153 4.08 0813 7.17 1500 3.12 2114 7.24 Sunrise 0607 Sunset 0541

30 WED 0254 7.42 0910 3.56 1517 6.64 2112 4.07 Sunrise 0559 Sunset 0543

20 SUN 0321 3.35 0928 7.95 1559 2.28 2204 8.08 Sunrise 0606 Sunset 0541

31 THUR 0334 6.71 0952 4.31 1623 5.93 2159 4.82 Sunrise 0558 Sunset 0543

21 MON 0418 2.47 1016 8.72 1646 1.54 2244 8.79 Sunrise 0606 Sunset 0542 22 TUE 0503 1.71 1056 9.30 1727 1.02 2320 9.30 Sunrise 0605 Sunset 0542

1 FRI 0510 6.10 1308 4.63 1954 5.80 Sunrise 0557 Sunset 0544 2 SAT 0158 4.89 0816 6.28 1451 4.03 2113 6.50 Sunrise 0557 Sunset 0544 3 SUN 0316 4.20 0918 7.00 1536 3.31 2147 7.22 Sunrise 0556 Sunset 0544 4 MON 0354 3.46 0953 7.73 1611 2.61 2216 7.90 Sunrise 0555 Sunset 0544 5 TUE 0428 2.74 1024 8.38 1644 1.98 2244 8.51 Sunrise 0554 Sunset 0544

12 TUE 0137 9.26 0806 1.66 1358 8.52 2015 2.23 Sunrise 0548 Sunset 0545

23 SAT 0000 9.85 0628 0.76 1215 9.59 1840 1.09 Sunrise 0539 Sunset 0547

1 SUN 0108 5.23 0718 5.98 1415 4.43 2049 6.34 Sunrise 0532 Sunset 0548

12 THUR 0151 8.78 0822 2.37 1424 7.78 2032 3.20 Sunrise 0523 Sunset 0551

23 MON 0001 9.69 0631 1.08 1221 9.19 1839 1.72 Sunrise 0516 Sunset 0554

13 WED 0210 8.68 0838 2.38 1437 7.73 2048 3.03 Sunrise 0547 Sunset 0545

24 SUN 0028 9.72 0656 0.97 1243 9.30 1905 1.44 Sunrise 0538 Sunset 0547

2 MON 0254 4.48 0853 6.73 1507 3.67 2121 7.15 Sunrise 0531 Sunset 0548

13 FRI 0232 7.88 0903 3.32 1520 6.92 2121 4.13 Sunrise 0523 Sunset 0551

24 TUE 0027 9.44 0655 1.38 1248 8.86 1902 2.09 Sunrise 0515 Sunset 0554

14 THUR 0250 7.90 0918 3.25 1528 6.85 2131 3.93 Sunrise 0546 Sunset 0545

25 MON 0055 9.42 0721 1.36 1311 8.87 1928 1.93 Sunrise 0537 Sunset 0547

3 TUE 0330 3.64 0928 7.54 1543 2.91 2147 7.93 Sunrise 0530 Sunset 0548

14 SAT 0333 6.94 1021 4.22 1703 6.31 2330 4.77 Sunrise 0522 Sunset 0551

25 WED 0052 9.06 0719 1.83 1316 8.42 1925 2.57 Sunrise 0515 Sunset 0554

15 FRI 0345 7.04 1032 4.11 1713 6.16 2329 4.65 Sunrise 0546 Sunset 0546

26 TUE 0121 8.96 0745 1.90 1339 8.31 1949 2.52 Sunrise 0536 Sunset 0547

4 WED 0402 2.79 0959 8.29 1616 2.19 2215 8.66 Sunrise 0530 Sunset 0549

15 SUN 0551 6.41 1311 4.23 1946 6.62 Sunrise 0521 Sunset 0551

26 THUR 0117 8.56 0743 2.39 1344 7.88 1947 3.15 Sunrise 0514 Sunset 0555

16 SAT 0558 6.49 1327 4.10 2001 6.43 Sunrise 0545 Sunset 0546

27 WED 0146 8.38 0808 2.54 1406 7.65 2010 3.20 Sunrise 0535 Sunset 0547

5 THUR 0435 1.99 1029 8.94 1649 1.59 2243 9.29 Sunrise 0529 Sunset 0549

28 THUR 0211 7.70 0833 3.27 1437 6.94 2032 3.93 Sunrise 0535 Sunset 0548

6 FRI 0508 1.31 1059 9.44 1722 1.13 2312 9.78 Sunrise 0528 Sunset 0549

29 FRI 0240 6.96 0904 4.06 1521 6.20 2101 4.70 Sunrise 0534 Sunset 0548

7 SAT 0541 0.81 1130 9.74 1755 0.89 2341 10.07 Sunrise 0527 Sunset 0549

30 SAT 0331 6.20 1016 4.81 1747 5.71 Sunrise 0533 Sunset 0548

8 SUN 0614 0.56 1201 9.82 1826 0.89 Sunrise 0526 Sunset 0550

19 THUR 0430 1.66 1023 9.05 1645 1.61 2238 9.50 Sunrise 0518 Sunset 0552

20 WED 0449 1.56 1043 9.27 1708 1.17 2301 9.51 Sunrise 0541 Sunset 0546

9 MON 0011 10.15 0645 0.59 1233 9.65 1857 1.14 Sunrise 0526 Sunset 0550

20 FRI 0503 1.18 1055 9.35 1717 1.38 2307 9.74 Sunrise 0518 Sunset 0553

21 THUR 0526 1.03 1115 9.60 1742 0.91 2332 9.79 Sunrise 0540 Sunset 0546

10 TUE 0043 9.96 0716 0.93 1307 9.24 1926 1.63 Sunrise 0525 Sunset 0550

21 SAT 0535 0.95 1124 9.45 1747 1.35 2334 9.79 Sunrise 0517 Sunset 0553

22 FRI 0559 0.77 1146 9.70 1812 0.90 Sunrise 0540 Sunset 0547

11 WED 0116 9.50 0748 1.54 1344 8.60 1958 2.33 Sunrise 0524 Sunset 0550

22 SUN 0604 0.92 1153 9.39 1814 1.47 Sunrise 0516 Sunset 0553

6 WED 0500 2.08 1053 8.93 1715 1.46 2311 9.02 Sunrise 0553 Sunset 0544

17 SUN 0203 4.29 0824 6.98 1500 3.30 2112 7.36 Sunrise 0544 Sunset 0546

7 THUR 0532 1.52 1122 9.34 1748 1.08 2339 9.42 Sunrise 0552 Sunset 0544

18 MON 0321 3.32 0926 7.89 1551 2.42 2154 8.27 Sunrise 0543 Sunset 0546

8 FRI 0604 1.10 1152 9.59 1819 0.88 Sunrise 0552 Sunset 0545

19 TUE 0409 2.35 1008 8.69 1632 1.67 2230 9.01 Sunrise 0542 Sunset 0546

9 SAT 0007 9.67 0635 0.88 1221 9.65 1848 0.89 Sunrise 0551 Sunset 0545 10 SUN 0036 9.75 0705 0.89 1252 9.50 1917 1.13 Sunrise 0550 Sunset 0545 11 MON 0105 9.63 0735 1.15 1324 9.12 1946 1.58 Sunrise 0549 Sunset 0545

OCTOBER

16 MON 0203 4.27 0815 6.94 1443 3.50 2054 7.52 Sunrise 0520 Sunset 0552 17 TUE 0309 3.29 0912 7.79 1531 2.71 2133 8.37 Sunrise 0520 Sunset 0552 18 WED 0352 2.38 0950 8.53 1610 2.06 2207 9.04 Sunrise 0519 Sunset 0552

27 FRI 0143 7.95 0809 3.05 1415 7.27 2012 3.81 Sunrise 0514 Sunset 0555 28 SAT 0211 7.27 0840 3.77 1456 6.64 2043 4.51 Sunrise 0513 Sunset 0556 29 SUN 0253 6.55 0931 4.48 1619 6.11 2202 5.15 Sunrise 0512 Sunset 0556 30 MON 0513 6.02 1246 4.70 1919 6.24 Sunrise 0512 Sunset 0556 31 TUE 0156 4.77 0756 6.45 1413 4.10 2033 6.99 Sunrise 0511 Sunset 0557

The Bureau of Meteorology gives no warranty of any kind whether express, implied, statutory or otherwise in respect to the availability, accuracy, currency, completeness, quality or reliability of the information or that the information will be fit for any particular purpose or will not infringe any third party Intellectual Property rights. The Bureauâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s liability for any loss, damage, cost or expense resulting from use of, or reliance on, the information is entirely excluded.

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

visitbroome.com.au

{ GOOD READS } from Magabala Books

NOVEMBER 1 WED 0251 3.90 0850 7.23 1501 3.37 2108 7.82 Sunrise 0511 Sunset 0557

11 SAT 0227 7.94 0901 3.25 1519 7.26 2125 4.05 Sunrise 0507 Sunset 0602

2 THUR 0328 2.99 0926 8.02 1540 2.64 2140 8.63 Sunrise 0511 Sunset 0558

12 SUN 0333 7.08 1014 4.03 1642 6.77 2310 4.56 Sunrise 0507 Sunset 0602

3 FRI 0404 2.10 1001 8.73 1618 1.99 2212 9.33 Sunrise 0510 Sunset 0558

13 MON 0522 6.56 1219 4.24 1844 6.84 Sunrise 0507 Sunset 0603

23 THUR 0033 9.06 0701 1.83 1300 8.49 1909 2.62 Sunrise 0505 Sunset 0609

14 TUE 0122 4.27 0732 6.80 1400 3.84 2015 7.46 Sunrise 0506 Sunset 0604

24 FRI 0100 8.69 0728 2.25 1330 8.13 1935 3.04 Sunrise 0505 Sunset 0609

15 WED 0242 3.48 0842 7.45 1459 3.25 2102 8.16 Sunrise 0506 Sunset 0604

25 SAT 0128 8.22 0756 2.77 1403 7.69 2005 3.55 Sunrise 0505 Sunset 0610

16 THUR 0328 2.70 0926 8.07 1543 2.72 2140 8.73 Sunrise 0506 Sunset 0605

26 SUN 0201 7.67 0829 3.35 1443 7.22 2041 4.11 Sunrise 0505 Sunset 0610

7 TUE 0627 0.58 1219 9.59 1839 1.36 Sunrise 0509 Sunset 0600

17 FRI 0406 2.07 1002 8.55 1619 2.31 2213 9.15 Sunrise 0506 Sunset 0605

27 MON 0242 7.06 0914 3.94 1539 6.79 2139 4.63 Sunrise 0505 Sunset 0611

8 WED 0024 10.04 0702 0.93 1255 9.22 1913 1.80 Sunrise 0508 Sunset 0600

18 SAT 0440 1.62 1035 8.86 1653 2.06 2244 9.39 Sunrise 0506 Sunset 0606

28 TUE 0354 6.51 1031 4.41 1710 6.59 2352 4.80 Sunrise 0506 Sunset 0612

9 THUR 0101 9.55 0737 1.55 1335 8.65 1949 2.45 Sunrise 0508 Sunset 0601

19 SUN 0512 1.37 1106 9.02 1724 1.95 2313 9.49 Sunrise 0506 Sunset 00606

29 WED 0609 6.37 1240 4.35 1901 6.90 Sunrise 0506 Sunset 0612

10 FRI 0141 8.82 0815 2.36 1421 7.96 2030 3.24 Sunrise 0508 Sunset 0601

20 MON 0541 1.27 1136 9.04 1752 1.95 2340 9.46 Sunrise 0506 Sunset 0607

4 SAT 0441 1.34 1035 9.27 1654 1.49 2244 9.87 Sunrise 0510 Sunset 0559 5 SUN 0517 0.80 1108 9.61 1730 1.21 2317 10.19 Sunrise 0509 Sunset 0559 6 MON 0553 0.53 1143 9.72 1805 1.16 2350 10.26 Sunrise 0509 Sunset 0559

21 TUE 0609 1.33 1204 8.96 1818 2.07 Sunrise 0505 Sunset 0608 22 WED 0006 9.32 0635 1.52 1232 8.77 1843 2.29 Sunrise 0505 Sunset 0608

Frances and Lindsay Haji-Ali take us counting backwards from 15 to one on this spectacular journey in the far north of WA.

hen Frances and Lindsay lived with their family in Broome, they often set out to visit Nana in the tiny outback town of Wyndham over 1,000km north. These road trips took them across the magnificent Kimberley landscape and inspired this counting story. On The Way To Nana’s is a standout counting book. Counting backwards from ‘fifteen to one’ is a challenging concept for children to grasp. Each double page spread includes numbers and words and will enthral readers, parents and educators as they find and count the objects on each page. From bulging boabs and proud brumbies to weary travellers, flying magpie geese and flowing waterfalls, David Hardy’s striking illustrations capture the awe and excitement of this

special family adventure. Lindsay Haji-Ali is a descendant of the Yawuru/Karajarri people of the West Kimberley region of Western Australia. He is an accomplished artist and his designs and artworks are held in private and corporate collections. Frances Haji-Ali is an educator. She has worked in Catholic schools across the Kimberley and is currently a school principal in Perth, Western Australia. On The Way to Nana’s is their first collaboration. David Hardy has worked in feature films with Walt Disney Animation Studios and is now a senior gaming animator/ illustrator in Sydney. He is the author/illustrator of the celebrated children’s books Alfie’s Search for Destiny (Magabala Books 2013) and Alfie’s Big Wish (Magabala Books 2014). David is a descendant of the Barkindji people of Brewarrina, north west of NSW. Launched in 1987, Magabala Books is a not-for-profit publishing house that aims to promote, preserve and publish Indigenous Australian culture. Available June 2017 in all good bookshops and online from Magabala Books, $17.99.

30 THUR 0145 4.19 0748 6.85 1358 3.85 2010 7.57 Sunrise 0506 Sunset 0613

Gantheaume Point dinosaur footprints visible on tides less than 2.16m. Catalina Flying Boat Wrecks visible on tides less than 0.86m. Staircase to the Moon viewing

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

visitbroome.com.au

Broomeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Northern Beaches

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

BVC MEMBERS ACCOMMODATION BACKPACKERS & HOSTELS Beaches of Broome Broome’s Last Resort Cable Beach Backpackers The Kimberley Klub Kimberley Travellers Lodge CARAVAN PARKS & CAMPING Broome Caravan Park Broome’s Gateway Broome Pistol Club Broome Vacation Village Cable Beach Caravan Park Palm Grove Holiday Resort Roebuck Bay Caravan Park Tarangau Caravan Park GUESTHOUSES, BED & BREAKFASTS Courthouse B&B Pinctada McAlpine House Red Emperor B&B Ochre Moon Reflections B&B HOTELS, MOTELS, RESORTS & SELF CONTAINED Bali Hai Resort Bayside Hoiliday Apartments Blue Seas Resort Breezes Apartments Broome Beach Resort Broome-Time Accommodation Cable Beach Club Resort & Spa Cable Beachside Villas Cocos Beach Bungalows Habitat Resort KIMBERLEY SANDS RESORT & SPA Mantra Frangipani Mercure Broome Moonlight Bay Suites Oaks Broome Oaks Cable Beach Sanctuary Roebuck Bay Hotel and Motel Seashells Resort Broome The Billi The Mangrove Resort Hotel The Pearle BROOME & BEYOND

E9 J15 K16 A18 T10 Q10 D9 F9 O16 C9 K17 M15 M13 E14 P14 F9 L17 E9 N10 F9 K12 E8 F9 D9 T10 F9 B9 M16 L17 M16 D9 J18 E9 D10 K17 C9

DAMPIER PENINSULA Ardyaloon Trochus Hatchery & Aquaculture Centre Brian Lee Tagalong Tours Bundy’s Cultural Tours Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm & Accommodation Gnylmarung Retreat Goombaragin Eco Retreat Kimberley Coastal Camp Kimberley Outback Xposure – Gumbanan Kooljaman At Cape Leveque Lombadina Community Nature’s Hideaway Middle Lagoon Mercedes Cove Ngarlan Yarn’n (Mena Lewis) Sacred Heart Church Beagle Bay Smyth’s Seaside Adventures Whalesong Cafe & Campground - Munget TRAVELLING NORTH APT Bell Gorge Wilderness Lodge APT Bungle Bungle Wilderness Lodge APT Kimberley Wilderness Adventure APT Mitchell Falls Wilderness Lodge Backpacker Express Birdwood Downs Bougainvillea Lodge Bed & Breakfast Bunbury Backpackers Bungle Bungle Caravan Park Bungle Bungle Expeditions Bungoolee Tours Derby Lodge Derby Visitor Centre Derby Wharf Restaurant & Café Diggers Rest Station Drysdale River Station

East Kimberley Tours El Questro Wilderness Park Fitzroy River Lodge Freshwater East Kimberley Apartments Girloorloo Tours - Mimbi Caves Hidden Valley Caravan Park Pty Ltd Home Valley Station Hoochery Distillery Hotel Kununurra Ibis Styles Kununurra Imintji Aboriginal Corporation Kimberley Coastal Camp Kimberley Dreamtime Adventure Tours Kimberley Fine Diamonds Kimberleyland Holiday Park Kimberley Outback Tours Kimberley Hotel Kununurra Country Club Resort Kununurra Kamper Hire Kununurra Lakeside Resort Kununurra Resorts Lake Argyle – Kimberley Cat Cruises Lake Argyle Resort & Caravan Park Lake Argyle Tours and Boat Cruises Lamartij Cultural Tours Mornington Wilderness Camp Mount Barnett Roadhouse Mowanjum Art and Cultural Centre Mt Hart Wilderness Lodge OAKS Elan Darwin Outback Float Planes Over the Range Tyre & Mechanical Repairs Pinctada Kimberley Grande Sacred Earth Safari’s Pty Ltd Savannah Way Spinifex Hotel Spirit Safaris The Berkeley River Lodge The Rock Tour Triple J Tours Uptuyu Adventures WA Barra Charters Windjana Tours (Derby) Wunambal Gaambera Aboriginal Corporation TRAVELLING SOUTH Adventure Tours - Karinjini National Park Barn Hill Station Stay Coral Bay Ecotours Cooke Point Holiday Park Esplanade Hotel Port Hedland Exmouth Caravan Park Exmouth Diving Centre Karijini Eco Retreat Kings Ningaloo Reef Tours Mackerel Islands Monkey Mia Dolphin Resort Ningaloo Reef Resort Ningaloo Whale Shark Swim Ocean Eco Adventures Exmouth Pilbara Holiday Park Port Smith Caravan Park Ramada Eco Beach Resort The Rock Tour Sail Ningaloo Pty Ltd Taunton Farm Holiday Park Three Islands Whale Shark Dive Wander Inn Bunbury Whim Creek Hotel LOCAL BUSINESS All Creatures Veterinary Clinic K16 Australian Business Consulting and Solutions Andimaps Australias North West Toursim J17 Bell Chartered Accountants Broome Vet Clinic K12 Commonwealth Bank K17 Derek Hobbs Hypnotism Environs Kimberley Inc O12 First National Real Estate Broome J17 Gail Gower Consulting GRRoomtime (Pet Grooming) H&M Tracey Hutchinson Real Estate J17 Kadar Pearson & Partner J17 Kimberley Training Insistute J11 MGIB Financial Services J17

Nagula Jarndu Pistol Club U10 Roebuck Bay Medical Services J18 Shell Australia - Broome COMMUNITY SERVICES Broome Chamber of Commerce J15 Broome Civic Centre Broome Public Library L17 Broome Recreation & Aquatic Centre K12 Department of Fisheries R10 Departments of Parks & Wildlife (DPAW) Department of Transport - Marine Safety Diocese of Broome L16 Hutchinson Real Estate Kimberley Development Commission J18 Regional Development Australia L17 Shire of Broome L17 University of Notre Dame M12 Yawuru M10 HEALTH AND BEAUTY Ancient Earth Organics I18 Broome Sports Massage & Bowen Clinic J17 Jasmin Nail & Beauty I17 & J14 Kimberley Chiropractic L17 Kimberley Eyecare Kimberley Podiatry L17 Kimberley Sports Massage Centre J18 Life & Soul Health & Fitness Club Broome C15 Roebuck Bay Working Group The Sandalwood Gallery J17 MAINTENANCE, HIRE AND SUPPLIES Allvolts Power Solutions N12 AutoPro Broome P12 BP Shinju M13 Broome 4x4 Megastore/ Broome Auto Excellence O13 Broome Cycles J17 Broome Mechanical C15 Broome Motors P11 Broome Progressive Supplies N12 Broome Towing & Salvage M13 Broome Toyota, Holden & Hyundai J10 Broomecrete N12 H&M Tracey Construction O13 Keshi Storage & Containers N12 Kimberley TV and Satelllite Services J15 Minshull Mechanical Repairs M13 MG Tyres Bridgestone Service Centre T9 Mickey Blu Australia T9 Mobile Wheel Bearing Services Overall Constructions & Caravan Maintenance Overall Range Tyres & mechanical Repairs Reeds Prospecting Supplies Troppo Sound O13 MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Arteon W.G. Kimberley Treasures Broome Historical Museum N16 SSJG Heritage Centre K16 ART & PHOTOGRAPHIC GALLERIES Art House Framing & Art Supplies P12 Artlandish Aboriginal Gallery Broome Gallery J18 Broome-Time Art Gallery K12 Emma Blyth Krim Benterrak Art Studio Nadeen Lovell - Kimberley & Beyond Exhibition J18 Mowanjum Art & Culture Centre Pamela Jennings Photography Pearl Shed Framing and Gallery N13 Red Dirt Photographic Gallery J17 Sobrane J18 Suzi French Art Yane Sotiroski Photography J18 MEDIA SERVICES Boab UAS Broome Advertiser J18 Destination Broome I18 Goolarri Media M12 LizArt Productions (Uniquely Broome) Redwave Media

DISCLAIMER: No responsibility is accepted by the Broome Visitor Centre, Designer and/or Printer for the accuracy of information contained in the text or advertisements. Advertisements must comply with the relevant Trade Practices Act 1979. Responsibility for compliance with the act rests with the person, company or advertising agency submitting the advertisement.

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

visitbroome.com.au

NEED TO BOOK? Broome Visitor Centre (08) 9195 2200 EXTENDED CRUISES Ahoy Buccaneers Diverse Charter Company Eco Abrolhos Kimberley Expeditions O12 Kimberley Pearl Charters (formerly Black Pearl Charters) Kimberley Quest J18 Lady M Cruising North Star Cruises J18 Ocean Dream Charters Odyssey Expeditions N13 One Tide Charters The Great Escape Charter Company J18 Unreel Adventure Safaris LAND BASED TOURS 12 Mile Bird Park Astro Tours AQUA Broome map X9 Broome and Around Bus Charter O12 Broome Chinatown Walks Broome Bird Observatory U15 Broome Camel Safaris Broome Historical Walking Tours O16 Broome Sightseeing Tours J18 Broome Top Deck Tours Broome Trike Tours Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm Tours Frontier Photography Tours Grass Root Tours Narllijia Cultural Tours Malcolm Douglas Crocodile Park T15 Pearl Luggers J18 Red Dirt Photography Tours Red Sun Camels J18 Willie Creek Pearl Farm S14 WATER BASED TOURS Absolute Ocean Charters Black Pearl Charters Broome Adventure Company Broome Bluewater Charters Broome Hovercraft W9 Broome Whale Watching Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm Tours Fish Broome Fish N Trips Karma IV Kimberley Country P/L Kimberley Cultural Adventures Kimberley Kayak Fishing Kimberley Wild Expedition Tours

Lurujarri Tours Makaira Game Fishing Off-road Rush Sundowner Camel Tours West Kimberley Fishing Tours TRANSPORT SERVICES Broome International Airport Pty Ltd J14 Broome Taxis Cape Leveque Mail Run Chinatown Taxis Derby Bus Service Greyhound Australia J17 Integrity Coach Lines Pearl Town Bus Service Pearl Town Taxis Shinju Matsuri Pedicab Co Broome J17 VEHICLE HIRE Auswest Car Rentals Britz & Maui Australia O13 Broome Broome Car Rentals J17 Europcar J15 Thrifty Car Rental (NT & Kimberley) J15 Wicked Campers (Juicy Love T/as) P13 WEDDING, CONFERENCE Broome Convention Centre Chinatown J17 Broome Florist Kimberley Weddings EVENT SERVICES Broome Turf Club R4 Cable Sounds, Mellen Events D7 Cygnet Bay Pearls Kimberley Performing Arts Council Learn to Trade Lombadina Events Mowanjum Art & Culture Centre Opera Under the Stars The Roey Events Shinju Matsuri J18 Sun Pictures J17 A Taste of Broome M12 Theatre Kimberley K12 Tura New Music Whispers from Beyond 8D INPEX Pearl Sea Dry Cleaning and Laundromat C14 Tackle World Broome J17 Travel World Broome J14

1 Ardyaloon Trochus Hatchery & Aquaculture Centre 2 Cygnet Bay Pearls

Cape Leveque 6 10

3 Gambanan Pty Ltd 4 Gnylmarung Retreat

5 Goombaragin Eco Retreat 6 Kooljaman at Cape Leveque

115

• Mudnunn

King Sound

4 Beagle Bay 11

Highway Sealed Road Unsealed Road - 4WD required River

•Beagle Bay Community

Dampier Peninsula

Derby

Coulomb Point • 86

Hunters Creek Banana Well Getaway

James Price Point • Quondong Point • Barred Creek • Willie Creek • 14

Pender Bay

• Sunday Island

1 • One Arm Point

Cygnet Bay

Lombadina/Djaradjin •

7 Mercedes Cove 8 Natures Hideaway at Middle Lagoon 9 Whalesong Cafe & Campground

H i gh way ern rth

ive

Disclaimer: The details contained in this map are provided as a guide only. Every reasonable effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information, however road changes, closures and realignments are beyond the control of the Broome Visitor Centre. c Broome Visitor Centre

Broome

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RETAIL / SHOPPING Australian Rangeland Meat (Yeeda) I17 Azure Beach & Resort Wear J17 BHarvey Norman N12 Broome Betta Home Living I17 roome Courthouse Markets K16 Leading Edge M13 Magabala Books J17 Paspaley Plaza I17 Pearl Sea Dry Cleaning & Laundromat C14 Primewest Broome Boulevard Shopping Centre J14 Tackle World Broome J17 The Butcher & His Knife J14 Woolworths J14 JEWELLERY & PEARL SHOWROOMS Allure South Sea Pearls J18 Anastasia’s Family Jeweller Artissimo Broome Staircase Designs J18 Cygnet Bay Pearls J18 Galwey Pearls Jewels of the Kimberley I18 Kailis Australian Pearls J18 Lush Designs K17 Paspaley Pearls Tidal Elegance J18 Willie Creek Pearls - Showroom J18 RESTAURANTS/FOOD OUTLETS 18 degrees N16 Azuki Japanese Fusion J17 The Bay Club (Mangrove Hotel) K17 Bluey’s Place Fish and Chips J17 Broome RSL K16 Cable Beach General Store & Café F9 Conti Bar & Bistro (Mercure) M16 Cafe D’Amore N14 Cairo Café J17 Divers Tavern F9 Ginreab Thai I17 Good Cartel, The J16 Green Mango Café J17 J’s Pizza Little Indian Restaurant J17 Matso’s Broome Brewery L17 McDonalds J17 Millie Café Mollie Bean L12 Murphy’s (Mercure) M16 Oasis Eatery K17 Runway Bar & Restaurant J17 Som Thai Restaurant J17 Thai Orchid J17 The Aarli J17 The Mango Place T15 Wharf Restaurant Y11 Zanders At Cable Beach E8 Zookeepers Store TOURS AND ACTIVITIES 4WD TOURS ADAMS Pinnacle Tours Amazing Kimberley Tours & Charters Aussie Wanderer Instyle Adventures Kimberley Adventure Tours Kimberley Off-road Adventure Tours Kimberley Safari Tours Kimberley Wild Expeditions J18 Outback Camp Tours Sacred Earth Safaris Spirit Safaris (map J17) AIR TOURS AND SERVICES Ansett Aviation Aviair Broome Air Services J15 Broome Aviation J16 Broome Helicopter Services J15 Helispirit Horizontal Falls Seaplane Adventures KAS Helicopters I14 Kimberley Air Tours Kimberley Aviation I14 Kingfisher Tours King Leopold Air I14 Northwest Regional Airlines Outback Floatplane Adventures Scenic Helicopters

Roebuck Bay

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

Echo A Musical Celebration Mark Atkins Stephen Pigram Bart Willoughby The Narli Ensemble 7.30pm Tuesday 26 September Mangrove Hotel Tickets from Broome Visitor Centre & Mangrove Hotel www.tura.com.au

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

visitbroome.com.au

Out & About in Broome

Pearl Town Bus T/Table 052008

19/1/09

2:59 PM

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Telephone 9193 6585 7 DAYS PER WEEK. Shaded times operate May-mid October only from 7.10am to 7.10pm. Shaded times operate all year round from 8.40am to 6.40pm. ALL BUSES GO TO CHINATOWN AND CABLE BEACH.

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TO CABLE BEACH FROM CABLE BEACH 7.10am- 8.40am- Bus departs at minutes 7.10am- 8.40amBus departs at minutes 7.10pm 6.40pm 7.10pm 6.40pm past the hour: past the hour: Forrest St (Fong’s) .23 .53 .45 .15 CABLE BEACH Town Beach Club Vill. .24 .54 CB Caravan Park .47 .17 Town Beach / Museum .25 .55 Frangipani Resort .48 .18 Mercure Inn .26 .56 Oppo Oaks Cable Beach .49 .19 Blue Seas/CB Backpackers .50 Matso’s / Moonlight Bay .27 .57 .20 Willie Creek Pearls .51 .21 .28 .58 Mangrove Hotel Divers Tavern .52 .22 CHINATOWN Bali Hai / Pinctada Resort .53 .23 .30 .00 - DAMPIER TCE Cnr Cable Beach Rd & .32 .02 Visitor Centre .54 .24 - Gubinge Road .33 .03 Court House .55 Boulevard Shops .35 .05 - Charles Road .25 .55 - Reid Road .25 .37 Broome-Time Lodge .07 .56 .26 Broome Aquatic Centre Cnr Cable Beach Rd & .58 - Reid Road Boulevard Shops .28 .08 .38 .38 .00 .08 Sun Cinemas .30 - Charles Road .39 .09 Short Street oppo Visitor Cnt .02 .32 - Gubinge Road Palm Grove C/Van Pk CHINATOWN .42 .12 .33 .15 - CARNARVON ST .45 .03 CABLE BEACH CB Caravan Park .17 .05 Mangrove Hotel .47 .35 .18 .48 Frangipani Resort Matso’s / Moonlight Bay .06 .36 Oppo Oaks Cable Beach .19 Mercure Inn .49 .07 .37 Blue Seas/CB Backpackers .50 .08 .20 Town Beach / Museum .38 .21 .51 Town Beach Club Vill. Willie Creek Pearls .39 .09 .52 .10 .40 Forrest St (Fong’s) Divers Tavern .22 First service each morning extends to GANTHEAUME POINT. Great for an early morning walk along Cable Beach (approx. 5km). Please take a hat & water bottle.

FULL TIMETABLE AVAILABLE AT ONE WAY FARES

Adults ......$4.00 Child ........$2.00 Conc. ........$2.00

CONCESSION FARES Available only to Australian Pension & Senior Cards, WA Health and Student Cards. Present when boarding.

Vacation Village Hunter St Depot Shell House on Guy

www.broomebus.com.au *FROM HUNTER STREET AREA 8.43 12.43 4.43 8.48 12.48 4.48 8.50 12.50 4.50

Habitat Resort & Golf Club turn off on request (at same times as Vacation Village)

VALUE ADDED DAY PASS CHEAPER BUY: THE MULTI RIDER Unlimited travel for normal 5 rides day services. PLUS specials Adults ....$18.50 Conc......$9.00 from local businesses for 10 rides Adults ....$34.00 Conc....$16.00 only $10/day.

• Broome Taxis 13 10 08 • Chinatown Taxis 9192 3316 • Pearl Town Taxi Service 13 13 30 • Shinju Matsuri Pedicab Co 0474 118 090

NEED A TAXI?

Great range in vehicles, one way & long-term rentals, 24-hour roadside assist, maps & local advice - whatever you need, Think Thrifty.

08 9193 7712

thrifty.com.au

Broome Airport

broome@rentacar.com.au

Independent Licensee of Kingmill Pty Ltd, Trading as Thrifty Car Rental Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

ORDER ONLINE

AUSTRALIA WIDE DELIVERY

0428 346 008

Find us at the Broome Courthouse Markets Saturday 8 - 1pm all year round & Sundays April to October. Town Beach Thursday Night Markets & Staircase to Moon Night Markets. Private viewings available on request.

www.lushdesigns.com.au lushdesignjewellery lushdesignsBroome

EN FOR BREAKFAST, LUNCH & DINN

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EVERY·· DAY! · Live 1\lusic Every Sunday Enjoy craft beer and great food at our family-owned brewery! @MatsosBeer

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BR o o ME BRE w E RY

60 Hamersley Street, Broome. Western Australia

www.matsos.com.au

(08) 9193 5811

08 91924970 reservations@kooljaman.com.au www.kooljaman.com.au

Broome-Time Art Gallery Kimberley artworks • Hand-crafted didgeridoos Indigenous paintings • Wood & boab nut carvings • Kimberley images Artworks by Edwin lee Mulligan, Paul Boon, Regina Karadada, Lillian Karadada, Mork Norval, Rosalind Brown, Samantha Wugundin-Allies, Sarah Cox and many more

Gallery Open 7am to 7pm, seven days a week Visit broometimeaccommodation.com.au • 1 Cable Beach Road East, Broome

Broome 16 | April ~ June 2017

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017

visitbroome.com.au

I will holiday with Mantra Ideally located just a short walk from the pristine Cable Beach, Mantra Frangipani is the perfect Broome base for a relaxing getaway. The spacious fully self-contained one, two or three bedroom villa style apartments all feature a private garden courtyard, day bed and outdoor shower, ensuring a sense of serenity and privacy. Surrounded by lush tropical gardens and 2 tropical pools, Mantra Frangipani is your local slice of paradise.

To book your stay call (08) 9195 5000 or email frangipani.res@mantra.com.au

Enjoy Broome & Cable Beach the Oaks way

Oaks Cable Beach Sanctuary

Oaks Broome

Oaks is the perfect base from which to explore beautiful Broome and Cable Beach, with two centrally located resorts to choose from. Offering modern, spacious self-contained apartments and extensive leisure facilities, ideal for business travellers or holiday makers alike.

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Save 10% use ‘MYOAKS’ promo code at oakshotels.com and join our benefits program.

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Oaks Cable Beach Sanctuary 1 Lullfitz Dr, Cable Beach WA Oaks Broome 99 Robinson St, Broome WA *Discount is off the best flexible rate, you must book direct with Oaks using MyOaks promo code. Discounts can’t be refunded after a booking is made if MyOaks was not entered. Visit oakshotels.com for full terms and conditions. OAK2308.

Broome Issue 17 | August ~ November 2017 1116 Broome Cafe 2.0 Artwork 93mm w x 138mm h PR.indd 1

OAK2308 9/11/2016 1:43:06 PM Broome Visitor Guide 1/4 Page Portrait 93x138mm.indd 1

9/3/17 3:11 pm

DISCOVER THE STORY OF THE AUSTRALIAN PEARL AT BROOME’S WORKING PEARL FARM

PEARLS | TOURS | ACCOMMODATION & CAMPING | DINING

There’s nothing more authentic than a visit to the only operational pearl farm open to the public. Immerse yourself in genuine history and expertise as you discover the secrets of how we create the famous “Broome Pearl” and feel the power of the world’s largest tropical tides on our Giant Tides Sea Safaris. Discover life on the Kimberley Coast for a day, or with a night spent in this pure, unspoilt environment. Explore the iconic destinations of Cape Leveque, the Buccaneer Archipelago, Horizontal Waterfalls and Cygnet Bay all from the tip of the beautiful Dampier Peninsula.

Image: Waterfall Reef.

9192 4283 | cygnetbaypearlfarm.com.au

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