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Discover the UK’s newest crochet magazine PREVIEW ISSUE
E E FPR ROJECT INSIDE
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Hello and welcome to this special preview of our brand-new magazine Crochet Now. We’re hard at work on the first issue already, which you’ll be able to find in selected supermarkets, newsagents and craft shops from 23rd March 2016. In these pages, you’ll see some of what’s heading your way in issue 1, as well as giving you a little sneak peek at what the magazine will look like. We’re crafters first and foremost here at Practical Publishing, and our passion is making magazines that other crafters will truly love. Crochet Now promises to be full of projects you’ll really want to make each and every issue, in budget-friendly yarns that are easily within your grasp, whether you’re an online shopper or a yarn shop frequenter. If you like the look of what’s to come, why not subscribe online today at www.practicalsubs.com or put the 23rd March in your diary to pick it up in the shops. Until issue 1, happy hooking,
Hugh Metcalf Editor firstname.lastname@example.org
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Itâ€™s a case of something old, something new with issue 1 of Crochet Now, as we start the magazine off with a look back. Inside youâ€™ll find projects inspired by on-trend retro colours and vintageinspired crochet designs. Look out for bold and beautiful colour combinations in accessories and homewares, and how about these gorgeous bunnies by Irene Strange which remind us of our childhood teddies?
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to read a pattern If you’re new to the world of crochet, here’s a beginner’s guide to getting started with a crochet pattern
Reading a pattern line There are many different ways to write a crochet pattern, but all the patterns inside Crochet Now use the same style, which we’ll clarify here for easy reference.
Using numbered rows or rounds (rnds) is the best way to keep your place in a pattern. Take notice of whether the pattern says rows or rnds, as it’ll also signify whether you should be working the piece flat or in the round if not stated already.
In Crochet Now, the instructions for working a basic stitch will be given with the instruction of how many stitches are worked in succession. For example, the instruction ‘4 dc’ will tell you to work a double crochet stitch into the next four available stitches on the row below. Increases are signified by the instruction ‘in the same st’ or ‘in the next st’. As an example, ‘4 dc in the next st’ will mean working four double crochet stitches into the next available st. Square brackets are used in patterns to show a complete instruction, which is then followed by a further instruction outside the bracket. For example, ‘[3 dc, 2 dc in the next st] four times’ means that ‘3 dc, 2 dc in the next st’ will be worked four times in succession. Another way of indicating a repeat is to use *, followed by an instruction to repeat from * a certain number of times. Round brackets within pattern instructions will signify sizing – so make sure you pay attention to the sizing chart in the project materials column. If a pattern states S (M, L) then in the instructions 20 (24, 28) dc, you work the number of stitches required that corresponds to the size you are working only.
1. About the yarn If you can’t get hold of the pattern yarn, or want to substitute it for another yarn, this information is important. Not only does it tell you the weight of yarn, it also gives an insight into the fibre make-up (in case you want to create something that looks similar), as well as the yardage so you can ensure you buy enough of the substituted yarn. 2. Tension For most projects, a tension square is important – especially with items such as garments, accessories and baby clothes. How tightly or loosely you crochet is important for sizing, so crocheting a small square in the suggested pattern is a indicator of whether the final project will turn out the right size. If your tension does not match the suggested tension, adjust your hook size as required. 3. Finishing Apart from toys, most projects should be blocked to relax the yarn into its new shape. This is done by wetting the object, either in warm water, with a spray bottle or by steaming it. Then shape it and leave to dry.
This can be just laid out flat, pinned out on a blocking or foam board or with the likes of hats, some people even put them over inflated balloons. 4. Stitch patterns If you come across a term outside the common abbreviations included in this issue, it may be a special stitch. Look out for separate instructions outside the pattern, which will explain how to make the stitch. 5. Charts Charts are visual representations of crochet patterns, used to make the crocheter’s life easier when words just won’t do the job.
Not your average chevron â€“ Anna Nikipirowiczâ€™s design in gorgeous Rowan yarn uses colourwork skills to amazing effect
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Block bunny EXCLUSIVE
E E FPR ROJECT
Cotton yarn is great for this project as it has less stretch, hiding more of the stuffing inside
A super quick make, this little rabbit is a whole new way to look at granny squares!
Yarn used DMC Natura 4-ply 1 ball each in Tournesol (A) and Ibiza (B)
About the yarn 4-ply, 155m per 50g ball; 100% cotton
Tension Each square measures approximately 6cm
Other supplies safety eyes tapestry needle
Size 13cm base to ears
Start crocheting Body
Make 3 granny squares in A, and one using A for rnds 1, 3 and 4 and B for Rnd 2. Chain 4. Join to work in the rnd, being careful not to twist.
Rnd 4: Sl st across tr and into next ch-sp, 3 ch, [2 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr] in same ch-sp, [3 tr in sp between next 3-tr groups] twice, * [3 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr] in next ch-sp, [3 tr in sp between next 3-tr groups] twice; rep from * three times. Join with sl st into beg 3 ch. Fasten off and break yarn. Join two sets of squares on one side only by sewing together with a tapestry needle, joining with a sl st or using the join as you go method.
Arms (make 2)
Rnd 1: With A, 6 dc in a magic ring, join with sl st into 1st st.
dc, 1 htr, 3 tr, 1 htr, 1 dc in last st, sl st into first st to join. Fasten off yarn. Making up: Join together the squares in two sets of two. The piece with the tummy patch in a contrast colour is now referred to as the front, and the other piece as the back. Secure the plastic eyes through gaps in the one colour granny square on the front, using the image as a guide. With oddments of scrap yarn and tapestry needle, embroider a fly stitch to create the nose shape. Fill in to complete the nose. Join B to the edge of the front piece.
Rnd 2: 1 ch, 2 dc in each st around, join with sl st into 1st st. 12 dc
Rnds 1-2: 2 ch, htr around, making 2 htr in the four outside corner stitches of the rectangle shape. Join with sl st into first htr.
Continue to work in spirals from this point, without joining each rnd with a sl st or making a turning chain.
Join to back using a sl st or sewing with B and a tapestry needle, leaving a small gap to add stuffing before closing up.
Rnd 3: 1 ch, dc around.
Weave in ends as required.
Rnds 4-6: Dc around.
Sew on ears to top or side of head and tail to behind if necessary using the image as a guide.
Rnd 1: With B, 6 dc in a magic ring, join with sl st into 1st st. Rnd 2: 1 ch, 2 dc in each st around. 12 dc Rnd 3: 1 ch, [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] around. 18 dc Rnd 4: 1 ch, dc around.
Bow Tie Band With B, chain 35. Row 1: Starting in 3rd ch from hook, htr across. 33 st Fasten off yarn. Using a tapestry needle and the tail, sew together in a loop around middle of body to create shaping.
Rnd 1: 3 ch (counts as tr throughout), 2 tr into ring, 2 ch, [3 tr, 2 ch] into ring three times. Join with sl st into beg 3 ch. 12 tr and 4 ch-sp
Rnd 5: 1 ch, [1 dc, dc2tog] around. 12 dc
Rnd 2: Sl st across tr and into next ch-sp, 3 ch, [2 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr] in same ch-sp, [3 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr] in next ch-sp three times. Join with sl st into beg 3 ch. 24 tr and 4 ch-sp
Rnd 6: 1 ch, dc2tog around. 6 dc
Rnd 3: Sl st across tr and into next ch-sp, 3 ch, [2 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr] in same ch-sp, 3 tr in next sp between next 3-tr groups, * [3 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr] in next ch-sp, 3 tr in sp between next 3-tr groups; rep from * three times. Join with sl st into beg 3 ch. 36 tr
Row 2-3: 3 ch, tr across.
Row 1: In 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc, 1 htr, 3 tr, 1 htr, 1 dc, 3 dc into next st, continue to work into other side of foundation chain, 1
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Fasten the bow to the band by weaving the yarn around the centre of the Bow piece, which also pulls in to create the bow shape.
Fasten off yarn. Weave tail through remaining sts and pull tight to close
With B, chain 9.
Wth B, chain 12. Row 1: Starting in 3rd ch from hook, htr across. 10 sts
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Free gifts! Crochet Now comes with the best free gifts you’ll find on any crochet magazine, whether that be useful tools and notions, extra project books filled with exclusive patterns and technique guides or yarn kits, giving you a project to start almost as soon as you’ve picked up the magazine In issue 1, you’ll not only find some colourful crochet hooks to start (or add to) your collection, you’ll also receive an extra free magazine, perfect for beginners, that’ll teach you to crochet step-by-step with the humble granny square. Add to that gorgeous projects using granny squares (and other shapes) and it’s sure to be a firm favourite for new and seasoned crocheters alike.
Full pattern in Issue 1
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3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
the basics Get a taste of some of the essential crochet techniques we cover every issue
Holding the hook
11 12 13 14 1
There’s no right or wrong way to hold your hook, but many crocheters find it comfortable to hold it as they would a pen.
Others prefer the knife method, with the end of the hook resting against the palm of the hand for extra control of the hook.
Holding the yarn
Making a slipknot
The key is to ensure tension in the yarn. This technique shows the tail held between index finger and thumb, and working end over the middle finger.
1 Holding the tail end firmly, wrap the working end of the ball of yarn around two fingers to make a loop.
2 Pull a loop from the working end of the ball of yarn up through the centre of the loop you’ve just made.
23 24 25
This technique shows the tail end held in between the thumb and middle finger and the working end wrapped around the index finger – see what works best for you!
27 28 29
3 Remove the loop from your fingers and you should have something that looks like this.
4 Pull the tail end of the yarn to close the slip know - it’s now ready to be popped onto your crochet hook and pulled tight to close.
1 Work as for a treble crochet stitch up to Step 3. 2 Yarn round the hook again, insert into the next stitch and pull up one loop. There are four loops on the hook.
3 Yarn round the hook again and pull through two loops. There are now three loops on the hook.
4 Yarn round the hook again and pull through the remaining three loops.
3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
14 15 16
2 Pull through both loops to complete the stitch and continue to work the next stitch in the next colour.
Crochet colourwork can make for some fantastic results. To change colour mid-row, first work the stitch until the penultimate step in colour 1. Yarn round the hook in the new colour.
3 Once secured, you can either fasten off the old yarn, or keep it attached if youâ€™ll be working it in again soon - this is called stranded colourwork.
18 19 20 21
Measuring tension Tension squares are particularly important for projects where size does matter, so be sure to work up a square in pattern thatâ€™s slightly larger than 10cm2 Grab your ruler and count your stitches. Too many? Try a hook size up. Too few? Try a hook size down.
22 23 24
25 26 27 28
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Discover the brand-new UK crochet magazine from the makers of Knit Now and Love Sewing. Crochet Now launches on the 23rd March 2016 and is p...
Published on Feb 19, 2016
Discover the brand-new UK crochet magazine from the makers of Knit Now and Love Sewing. Crochet Now launches on the 23rd March 2016 and is p...