Possible Magazine & Journal

Me and my mum celebrating at my sister’s wedding

As the last of three children to leave home, my conscience upholds an equivocal cocktail of emotions when I hear the word ‘mother’. I picture my own mum finally able to have the luxuries that independently raising three children couldn’t afford; the flaky cheddar that she likes, an overly fluffy rug in the living room, biscuits that don’t need to be hidden to make it through the night, and a lawn full of luscious green locks. I also see only candlelight keeping the windows alive during the evenings – no tiny footsteps creaking the floorboards at 2am, no gasps or giggles when my brother and I turn the TV on and it’s loud enough to warrant a “Shhh! You’re gonna wake mum up!”.

A cupboard full of biscuits in the morning.

Life has taught me many things. Mainly that I know close to nothing and the façade of self-assurance from my teenage years wasn’t to be trusted. That mum was mostly right when our heads butted over the visions I had for myself in my early youth. At fourteen when she steered me away from a snakebite piercing or dabbing away my heartbroken tears at seventeen. And yes, I do regret ever placing a cigarette between my lips.

I suspect most men would stoop their necks in agreement when I say that we don’t give our mothers the praise they deserve often enough. Motherhood is a vehicle that every child takes to adulthood, we may not be the ones steering the wheel, but we see every unexpected turn, feel every bump in the road, and cheer from the back seat at every triumph.

Perserverance is what makes a mother; an unwavering determination to get us all to our destinations, wherever they may be. I saw how my own mum would study for university until the early hours of the morning, felt the frustration grow with every sheet of paper that she would crumple up and throw in the bin, and I continue to cheer for her every triumph - of which there are many.

- Anthony McCawley

Cupboard full of biscuits

Mother’s Guilt: Real or Reductive?

Comparison, belittlement, judgement, and self esteem are all well established and sadly common instigators of a phenomenon called Mother’s Guilt or ‘mum-guilt’ for short. Mum-guilt is the feeling or constant fear that you should be doing more as a mother or that you may feel like you’re simply not good enough. This fear is known to cause feelings of inadequacy and frustration, especially in new mums; for example, in situations where a mum might witness their peers taking on extracurricular activities with their children, while their own are too entangled with their iPads to notice. “You’re told to bounce back - but you’re left alone with all these responsibilities and expectations that you succeed at them; no time for self care, and then the cycle continues.” Says new mum Daniella Ramejkis on her experience lifting the curtain to becoming a new mum.

“Motherhood is the most complicated, beautiful, messy, terrifying, natural, nightmare-blessing!”

Possible: What does mum-guilt mean to you?

Danni: I mean, from the get-go, the expectation is that because you’ve carried this beautiful baby for nine months, you’re going to have an instant connection and that didn’t happen for me. Mum-guilt to me is feeling out of control when everybody else expects you to have it all planned out because, well, you’re a mum now - it’s a lot of responsibility.

Possible: Do you rememeber the first time you felt mum-guilt?

Danni: I’d say while adapting to my new life. I was quite taken back to find a lack of support outside of my immediate family and then I got conflicted because I have a baby to look out for now. It was a confusing time.

The Takeaway:

Possible: Do you think mum-guilt is real or reductive?

Daniella Ramejkis

At age 22, Danni became a mother to her now four month old daughter, Aurora. Since that moment Danni’s life has completely turned inside out as she has been thrust into the life of a first-time parent. Danni is passionate about women’s voices being heard with diplomacy as she shares her thoughts on mum-guilt with Possible.

Possible: What advice would you give to a new couple expecting a baby?

Possible: Do you think there’s a double standard between mums and dads in parenting?

Danni: Oh, one hundred percent. In fact, I think if it weren’t for my fiance being the man he is, I’d have a much harder time finding my footing as a mum. It’s the outside world that has the issue. I think it’s probably more of a glass cieling than a double standard, though. Sometimes it feels like a dad can just be seen to be looking vaguely in the direction of his child and he’s lauded for it. But it’s my job as the mother to be ready in waiting, with eagle eyes and a 6th sense - prepared for something to go wrong and spring into action.

Danni: A lot of mum-guilt is just parental guilt, but society puts a lot of pressure on mums - I think that’s why we tend to internalise a lot of that guilt. Really, all it takes is some conversation and understanding and that guilt can be cut in half. Let’s put ‘mum-guilt’ behind us. Parental-guilt is what we’ll call it from now on, both parents should be questioning if they’re doing enough as a natural human response and not just act in place of your gender role because that’s what society expects of you.

Possible: With that said, any plans for baby number two any time soon?

Danni: No!

Danni: In my opinion, it’s a mix of both. I know it’s real because I’ve dealth with - and continue to deal with it - first hand. Though I do think there’s definitely potential for miscommunication. Mum-guilt is a serious issue, but it doesn’t have to be that way. Trust your instincts, trust your partner, communicate, and the rest will follow.

“Bounce-back culture is simply unattainable”

London Christina

silver for dusk

The Spring Edit Get the look...

Similar to a wild orchid or fragrant tulip, floral motifs have seemingly planted seeds amongst our most creative designers once more, and have began to bloom across this year’s most coveted fashion-week runways. After all, spring is motivated by the boldest of colours of seasons passed, rediscovering the intrigue of texture within our clothing as we shake off the holiday season, and finally allowing our bodies the freedom of movement that they deserve following a cosy (and restricted) winter.

This year, Possible’s Spring Edit focuses on the minimalist, the utilitarian, the ‘if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it’ - the mothers. This edit was curated with a person in mind that is so behind the trend that they’re ahead, this person is so unphased by the cycle that they’ve reached a state of total fashion bliss. The type of person that seeks to be a solitary rock in a meadow full to the brim with petals - and therefore has evolved into a timeless classic.

See ‘Anti-Trend Setter’ on pages 9-10 for seriously rebellious inspiration.

White Bell Sleeve Blouse Bardot | £70

Desert Orange Denim Flares

Neiman Marcus | £205

Gold Plated Star Pendant

Christina Jewellery | £55

A Blank Canvas

Loulou Studios maintain an essence of timelessness with this woven floor-length gown. Presented unstyled and editorial, they ask the observer to use their curiousity when assessing this dress.

Provoking thoughts of how it would be styled to their own liking, the events they would attend wearing such a garment.

Anti-Trend Setter

Florals have been, and still to this day remain, a staple in spring aesthetics. But this year we’re going against the grain - and in the spirit of championing new mothers, we’re venturing from the safe bet, and putting all of our fashion efforts out into the unfamiliar. Following a winter of wrapping up and toning down, minimalism may seem counter intuitive to the trend-follower or the casual shopper in spring - but that’s what makes it perfect.

It’s understandable to think that stripping it back can come across as boring but it doesn’t have to be that way, it rather aids in taking some of the guess work out of your daily routine, we can still have some fun here. Go bold with colour, go big on jewellery, go wild with your imagination. While florals, when done right, can brighten up the face, compliment the figure, help camoflague the parts of the body that maybe weren’t there before becoming a mum - there’s a fine line between looking spring-fresh and looking, to put it bluntly, dated.

Abra’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection perfectly encapsulates the notion of minimalist style dressing that still exudes that feel-good-factor. Essentially look eight, to the bottom left, is a long sleeve t-shirt and a pair of jeans - though here it’s elevated with statement earrings, a simple shoulder bag and crystalised denim. The styling is simple but still nods to the playfulness of spring all while offering comfort, style and ease. Pair with heels if you’re headed to a bar with friends or trainers if you’re taking it easy - the choice is yours and the possibilities are endless.

Other looks in Abra’s collection this season include; oversized coats, baggy jeans, lots and lots of sparkle, hot pink, silver, ultraviolet green, slouchy polo shirts - and interestingly enough, not a scent of floral.

“Go bold with colour, go big on jewellery, go wild with your imagination”

Fashion Week Chic

Style, grace, all that taste. Keeping up with trends doesn’t have to be so on the nose. And these fashion week moments are sure inspire a plethora of new combinations that you’re yet to unlock (maybe even within your own wardrobe).

The Spring/Summer 2023 fashion shows have concluded and one thing is certain: vibrant colours and unusual texture combinations are the way forward. From Fendi combining satin cargo pants and a cotton turtle neck jumper in neon green and beige, to Lapointe utlising vinyl in their flared trousers and wool in their oversized jumpers in monochrome hot pink - designers from all over the world are creating looks that boast a playfullness yet maintain sophistication.

A large portion of designers experimented with colour blocking this season resulting in it becoming one of the most striking trends to emerge from the runway. Alberta Faretti, for example, opted for elecrtic fuschia, eye-catching orange, and a whole other series of saturated colours in their collection. Ralph Lauren, on the other hand, kept their colour blocking muted and sophisticated with their collection sporting matching outfits for both mum and baby.

Overall, the Spring/Summer 2023 fashion shows were an excellent example of how to keep spring vibrant without looking dated. Have fun with texture, don’t be afraid of colour and consider taking the road less travelled. After all, fashion is all about having fun!

Akris Look 51

Sportmax Look 43

Fendi Look 29

Ralph Lauren Look 88

Alberta Ferretti Look 12

Paul & Joe Look 2

Eudon Choi Look 24

Marissa Wilson Look 14

Lapointe Look 11

Sinead O Dwyer Look 25

Maje Look 43

Stouls Look 17

Anthony McCawley

Word Count:1,611

Student ID: c33587888

Critical Journal: Fashion Writing Editorial

Introduction

This critical journal evidences the compilation of research, thought processes and ideas that have combined to create the concept for the module project. The critical journal will cover a history of fashion magazines, a rationale of the project and concludes with an explanation of how the project would be marketed.

Chapter 1: Fashion Editorial – A Historic Perspective

According to Britannica (2023) ‘The first dedicated fashion magazines appeared in England and France in the late 18th century. In the 19th century, fashion magazines such as the French La Mode Illustrée, the British Lady’s Realm, and the American Godey’s Lady’s Book.’ This is supported by Breward (1994) who notes the rise of the London-based woman’s magazine ‘Myra’s Journal of Dress and Fashion’ in 1875.

Breward (1994) continues that the creation and rise of Myra’s Journal of Dress and Fashion signified a shift in toward the attitudes that surrounded femininity and the ways it began to reflect in dress. Breward (1994) sustains ‘Myra's Journal of Dress and Fashion typified the unrestrained espousal of pioneering graphic form and uncompromised reporting which characterized those wider changes in the periodicals and news-paper industry which came to be known as the 'new journalism'. Here Breward comments on the impact that Myra’s Journal, with its graphics and unfiltered reporting style impacted the tabloids and news-paper industry, forcing them to adapt.

Gershon (2015) cites Breward (1994) with ‘Women of this era were navigating contradictions inherent in the way people understood the separate spheres of men and women. Women were portrayed as “pure angelic” wives and mothers without concern for material things, but they were also expected to communicate their families’ social positions through their clothing and appearance.’ Gershon concludes with ‘The magazines pushed their own form of male dominance the idea that women should dress to please men as well as the emerging notion of consumerism as a route to happiness. But they also offered a vision of freedom and independence that is still part of the appeal of today’s women’s magazines.’

A zeitgeist, as defined by Cambridge Dictionary (2023), is ‘the general set of ideas, beliefs, feelings, etc. that is typical of a particular period in history’. The dichotomy of the 19th century fashion magazine relates to the feminist zeitgeist in the sense that women were expected to be participants in consumerism, while having a disregard for material things – while also dressing to appease the male gaze, while expected to present as ‘pure angelic’. In conclusion, 19th century magazines were propagated by men to uphold a level of influence over women and in fact were not for women at their core. Myra’s Journal of Dress and Fashion released its last issue in 1912 (British Newspaper Archive, 2023).

In contrast, Vilaca (2023) describes 21st century fashion magazines as vehicles that ‘involve not only women’s demands, but also society’s concerns on fashion. Guidelines on freedom of expression, queer community, and other important topics to society were incorporated in the pages – printed and digital.’ Vilaca (2023) also makes note on the implications of technology in ‘the digital era’ as they continue ‘The internet era brought new formats of society’s relation with content. From that moment on, the place that was only filled by journalists and writers has another professional joining. Influencers, bloggers, and anyone that wants to talk about the subject started to produce content.’

In conclusion, Breward and Gershon depict 19th century fashion magazines as a vehicle for male-dominance, influencing women to appease the male gaze and fit into the gender roles built for them. Whereas Vilaca explains that through technological advancement, fashion magazines have become a hub for not only fashion but greater concerns to society, with fashion being a focus too.

Chapter 2: Reflective Practice – A Rationale For The Project

This project challenged me in multiple ways. I chose to create something that I felt very passionate about, and to do that I had to look inwardly, and I had to look back in time. I had to ask some very hard questions, and, in the process, I learned a lot.

It seems like every day there’s something going on in the United States that violates or threatens human rights – which worries me because the UK tends to mirror what happens in the states almost simultaneously. This makes sense as we’re huge trade partners as said in the US Embassy (2023) government website ‘Mutual trade and investment are at the heart of our prosperity, and our commitment to free market values enables our economies to thrive. The United States and the United Kingdom are the world’s first and fifth largest economies in the world. We currently trade over $260 billion worth of goods and services each year. We are each other’s number one source of foreign direct investment and two-way direct investment totals over $1 trillion.’

So, it concerns me when I see The New York Times (2023) report ‘Most abortions are now banned in 14 states following the Supreme Court’s decision to overturn Roe v. Wade. Georgia also bans abortion at about six weeks of pregnancy, before many women know they are pregnant.’ The reason is because this will not stop women getting abortions – it will stop them getting safe abortions, with many women resorting to having their bodies mutilated as their last resort. The same concern applies when I see The Human Rights Watch (2023) reporting ‘Other states have also sought to restrict gender-affirming care. Alabama, Arkansas, and Arizona have all banned different forms of gender-affirming care, with Alabama subjecting medical providers to felony charges.’ Leaving transgender women essentially outlawed and anybody trying to help them is charged with a felony. The implications of both laws are parallel.

Though I don’t claim to know everything, being raised by a single mum taught me a lot about what makes a woman. My dad passing left all our lives turned upside down – myself and my younger brother were too young to have any memories of him, but something I have always said to my mum is that I never felt like I missed out, because she was everything to us. She raised me, my brother and my sister while volunteering as a family support worker at Home Start, studying for her degrees in child development and ultimately grieving. She went on to graduate, become a full-time family support worker and finally take all of us on holiday, something we hadn’t done since my dad’s passing.

The full circle moment happened recently when a couple of my friends became new mums. Our friendships have changed, their babies are growing into their own people, there’s a new challenge every day. They tell me how isolating being a young mum can be, how expensive being a young mum can be, how tiring being a young mum can be and how they’ve never felt more love in their lives. That’s really when I began to better understand all the sacrifices that my own mum has made throughout her life to support us.

Possible is a fashion-lifestyle magazine with a feminine narrative, a voice to soften all the hard conversations that surround being a woman, being feminine and being ‘other’ in today’s social climate entail. I see possible is in the same calibre as Vogue and Elle, but slightly lower in price. The people I envision reading Possible are mothers, feminists (male and female), and people who need a little fashion inspiration on their quest to become socially conscious.

Chapter Three: Editorial and Marketing

Sobel (2001) says a ‘Tactic we used to create buzz was to enlist celebrities for the cover whose careers were on the upswing, but who hadn't been widely publicized at the time for example, CNBC's Maria Bartiromo, and actress Patricia Heaton ("Everybody Loves Raymond"). If you can tie in with a charity or local event, that's terrific buzz. And a controversial story, with accurate reporting, doesn't hurt either.’ Possible will have Kate Moss on the front cover and her talking about empty nesting as her child is now twenty years old. This would be good for publicity as Kate Moss has had a lot of press from the Johnny Depp and Amber Heard trial where Moss received a lot of public support, so readers would be inclined to hear more of what Kate has to say, especially in a more relatable context. The controversial story would be about Mother’s Guilt as it’s a very polarising topic to talk about and Possible has accurately reported this as they have interviewed a real new mum Daniella Ramejkis who concludes that mother’s guilt doesn’t exist and instead should be a shared burden - this is also good for word of mouth as it’s a conversation starter between parents who will discuss the article.

Rathod (2023) Takes from Sobel and updates his statements to a 2023 standpoint when he says ‘Influencer marketing is currently a key element influencing the strategy of contemporary marketers due to the growing power of influencers in various spheres of interest, including politics, products, cosmetics, and marketing. Influencer marketing combines tried-and-true and cutting-edge advertising strategies. Influencer marketing's key differentiator is that it updates the concept of celebrity endorsement into a content-driven marketing campaign for the modern day by collaborating with businesses and influencers to produce the campaign's results.’ While Possible maintains Sobel’s ethics on the usefulness of traditional celebrity, Possible will also enlist popular influencer and new mum Molly Mae, to have a featured article about her top tips for new mums. This will double down on the potential exposure of the magazine and take it in the direction of viral marketing – while opening the demographic of the magazine, at least for the first issue, to a younger audience.

Bibliography:

Journals

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Rathod, J. (2023) '2023: Influencer marketing is at a fascinating point right now' (2023) Adgully, 10 Jan, NA, available: https://link-galecom.leedsbeckett.idm.oclc.org/apps/doc/A732746501/ITOF?u=lmu_web&sid=bookmarkITOF&xid=4642d648 [accessed 13 May 2023].

BREWARD, C. (1994). Femininity and Consumption: The Problem of the Late NineteenthCentury Fashion Journal. Journal of Design History, 7(2), pp.71–89. doi:https://doi.org/10.1093/jdh/7.2.71.

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